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+Project Gutenberg's The South of France--East Half, by Charles Bertram Black
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The South of France--East Half
+
+Author: Charles Bertram Black
+
+Release Date: March 9, 2008 [EBook #24787]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber’s Note:
+
+The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage.
+
+“Keyword” headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page,
+have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph.
+
+Each itinerary gives the “miles from” {starting point} and “miles to”
+{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners
+of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces}
+before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at
+the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs
+describing side excursions do not have mileage information.
+
+The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the
+text, though not in the introductory section:
+ Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class.
+ The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.
+
+Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.]
+
+
+
+
+ [Map:
+ Index and Railway Map of France]
+
+
+
+
+ SOUTH OF FRANCE
+
+ EAST HALF
+
+
+
+
+GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.
+
+
+ SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH. 1s.
+
+ TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY,
+ ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of
+ SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s.
+
+ CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.
+
+ BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and
+ LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d.
+
+ NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF
+ CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,
+ etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d.
+
+ TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
+ Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.
+
+ The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the
+ Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine.
+
+ THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to
+ LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps
+ and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.
+
+ FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE
+ RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE
+ UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES
+ between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA,
+ MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous
+ Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.
+
+
+From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.
+
+ “_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
+ character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
+ acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in
+ which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent
+ observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’
+ the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
+ of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
+ mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
+ apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._”
+
+
+
+
+ The
+ SOUTH OF FRANCE
+ EAST HALF
+
+ Including the Valleys of
+ THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE
+
+ The BATHS of
+ VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE
+
+ The Whole of the
+ RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN
+
+ With the Inland Towns of
+ TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA
+
+ and
+ THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY
+
+ Illustrated with Maps and Plans
+
+
+ FOURTH EDITION
+
+ C. B. BLACK
+
+ EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
+ 1885
+
+
+
+
+ _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main
+Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements
+of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the
+stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to
+towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these
+branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than
+that of the towns on the main lines.
+
+Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of
+these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and
+either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.
+
+The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either
+from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement.
+The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for
+Marseilles to Paris.
+
+The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is
+expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the
+margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each
+other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from
+each other.
+
+In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in
+the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is
+necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on
+such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission,
+the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited
+before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the
+day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All
+the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on
+Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted
+on payment of a franc.
+
+In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For the
+Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
+Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”
+
+Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
+Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
+understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
+safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
+sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
+with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
+influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
+prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
+doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
+sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
+walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
+which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
+exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
+Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
+indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
+railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would
+strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
+health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
+to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
+situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
+mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
+climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
+of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
+his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
+requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
+to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
+will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due
+regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution
+can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best
+climate, a disease of long standing.
+
+“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
+strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
+witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
+deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
+surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
+which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
+left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to
+arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.
+
+“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
+living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
+exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
+‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
+late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
+promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
+counteracted by the operation of these causes.” --_Sir James Clark on
+the Sanative Influence of Climate._
+
+SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.
+
+ Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
+ at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore
+ (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283),
+ Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the
+ eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
+ Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin
+ (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice
+ (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
+ valleys.
+
+ If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
+ a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however,
+ on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather
+ sharp and bracing.
+
+ From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
+ baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are
+ many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58),
+ Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch
+ by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For
+ Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz
+ (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98),
+ Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble
+ (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From
+ Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè
+ (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and
+ villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the
+ roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the
+ western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.
+
+ None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
+ travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
+ They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.
+
+
+The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
+cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
+including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
+the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat
+breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au
+lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and
+the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads
+and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small
+gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and
+trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each,
+and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a
+gratuity.
+
+Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
+stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
+should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
+2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary
+Information.”
+
+ C. B. B.
+
+
+
+
+PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
+
+THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL.
+
+
+ The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel
+ connected by railroad with Paris are:--
+
+
+ Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.;
+ Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
+ 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de
+ l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d
+ cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.
+
+ London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily,
+ except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station.
+ Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60
+ miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets,
+ etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue
+ St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue
+ de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.
+
+ From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,
+ Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance,
+ 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st
+ class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
+ station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.
+
+ From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
+ Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40
+ minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives
+ at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through
+ trains by this line.
+
+
+ BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
+ Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
+ from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs.
+ 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.
+
+ London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal
+ route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express
+ trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class.
+ Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from
+ London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the
+ entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the
+ railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.
+
+
+ CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.;
+ Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
+ from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs.
+ 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.
+
+ London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283
+ miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+ Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
+ class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris,
+ 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined
+ in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the
+ railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.
+
+
+ CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck,
+ 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil,
+ 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40
+ minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d
+ cl. 20 frs. 10 c.
+
+
+ DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
+ 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens,
+ 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d
+ cl. 28 frs. 15 c.
+
+ England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three
+ times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.
+
+
+ LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville
+ Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen,
+ 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from
+ Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the
+ Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28
+ frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express,
+ 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.
+
+ London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday,
+ Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving
+ Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.
+
+
+ CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.;
+ Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny
+ Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
+ 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13
+ hours.
+
+
+FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.
+
+ On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England,
+ but the time is more accurately kept.
+
+ To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
+ luggage free.
+
+
+_Railway Time-Tables._
+
+ Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
+ official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold
+ at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are
+ various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
+ “Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the
+ French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is
+ furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The
+ “Livret-Chaix Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price
+ 2 frs.
+
+ Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at
+ every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
+ time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
+ map.
+
+ The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the
+ “Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et
+ à la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the
+ “Chemins de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at
+ all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.
+
+ For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous
+ les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
+ Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium.
+
+ For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d’Italia.”
+ Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price
+ 1 fr.
+
+ In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the
+ stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres,
+ of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means “arrival”;
+ _Salida_, “departure.”
+
+ In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,
+ Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
+ price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.
+
+
+_In the Railway Station._
+
+ Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index
+ of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain the
+ fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
+ refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on
+ its way.
+
+ On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people
+ before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are
+ sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket,
+ proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and
+ deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also
+ “bulletins.”
+
+ After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a
+ luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage
+ office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2
+ sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the
+ column headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your
+ articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the
+ figures 3, 5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this
+ office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to
+ present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department,
+ otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and
+ thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the
+ entire number of the party on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case
+ of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the
+ accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If,
+ after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to
+ be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket
+ office, to be re-stamped (être visé).
+
+ The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it
+ more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,
+ having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell
+ the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his
+ luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage
+ again.
+
+
+_On the Railway._
+
+ In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway
+ map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens,
+ Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.--the passengers are frequently
+ discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await
+ other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the
+ names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,
+ otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our
+ railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the
+ direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out,
+ “Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon,
+ we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the
+ map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway
+ map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in
+ readiness for reference.
+
+ _Buffet_ means “refreshment-room”; and _Salle d’Attente_,
+ “waiting-room.”
+
+ There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for
+ ladies.
+
+ Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.
+
+
+_Railway Omnibuses._
+
+ At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of
+ omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished
+ by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the
+ Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of
+ the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should
+ the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put
+ down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to
+ the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the
+MOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.
+
+For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the
+“Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their
+stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1 fr.
+or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains,
+those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all
+directions.
+
+In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern
+Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and
+Dover Railway, 3d.
+
+ PAGE
+
+ +PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon,
+ Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles,
+ Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on
+ fly-leaf) 1
+
+ For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide
+ this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles
+ (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122).
+
+ +PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1
+
+ The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the
+ most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood
+ of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau.
+ Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the
+ largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if
+ possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
+ from this great central railway are
+
+ +La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant,
+ Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach
+ awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and
+ vast church 14
+
+ From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its
+ famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where
+ Thomas à Becket resided.
+
+ Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit
+ the source of the Seine.
+
+ From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are
+ the famous Burgundy vineyards.
+
+ +Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot.
+ Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in
+ France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks.
+
+ +Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial
+ (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had
+ several interviews with J. C.
+
+ +Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be
+ avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important
+ railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is
+ Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron
+ and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station
+ for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of
+ St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is
+ Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne
+ (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along
+ the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and
+ Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See
+ map, p. 27.
+
+ VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N.E. 44
+
+ VALENCE TO ARDÈCHE 45
+
+ CREST TO MONTELIMART 46
+
+ +Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46
+
+ Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux
+ is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain.
+
+ +Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. by Die. This route
+ traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map,
+ p. 27) 47
+
+ MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Sévigné died 49
+
+ +La Croisière to Nyons+, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate
+ of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the
+ Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres,
+ 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and
+ Grenoble (map, p. 27).
+
+ +Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10½ m. east 54
+
+ Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a
+ great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among
+ others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).
+
+ +Avignon to Nîmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the
+ Pont-du-Gard 64
+
+ AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived
+ for some time 64
+
+ AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66
+
+ AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66
+
+ TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67
+
+ ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent
+ Roman remains 71
+
+ ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhône 72
+
+ ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal
+ steamboat 76 and 72
+
+ ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72
+
+ LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73
+
+ +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings
+ water to Marseilles from the Durance 77
+
+ +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.+ Aix has
+ communication by rail and by coach with very many of the
+ neighbouring towns 78
+
+ +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône+ (map,
+ p. 27) 81
+
+ PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St.
+ Etienne 81
+
+ +La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in
+ the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83
+
+ The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83
+
+ LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL TO LE BÉAGE (map, p. 85) 84
+
+ LE BÉAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85
+
+ LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88
+
+ LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89
+
+ DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89
+
+ CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90
+
+ LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol
+ station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91
+
+ LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92
+
+ +Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93
+
+ This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals
+ and the interesting volcanic mountains in the
+ neighbourhood.
+
+ PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94
+
+ PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the
+ Loire (p. 84) is visited 95
+
+ MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96
+
+ RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the
+ Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St.
+ Esprit (p. 98) 96
+
+ PONT D’AVIGNON, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for
+ Avignon 99
+
+ REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99
+
+ NÎMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105
+
+
+ THE RIVIERA.
+
+ +The Riviera.+ Hotels, productions, climate 107
+
+ +Marseilles.+ Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111
+
+ +MARSEILLES to MENTON.+ The French Riviera 122
+
+ Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little
+ towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123).
+ From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the
+ neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in
+ the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie
+ (pp. 124 and 129).
+
+ Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the
+ Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget
+ (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the
+ Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place
+ d’Italie (p. 128).
+
+ Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by
+ diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a
+ picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau
+ and Pierrefeu (p. 130).
+
+ Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier
+ (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131).
+
+ +The Iles d’Or.+ Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131
+
+ +Toulon to Hyères+ 132
+
+ +Hyères.+ Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,
+ productions, climate 133
+
+ Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of
+ Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141);
+ to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez
+ (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or
+ coach to Le Luc (p. 144).
+
+ +La Pauline.+ Diligence and train to Hyères 142
+
+ +Carnoules.+ Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing
+ Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142
+
+ +Le Luc.+ Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure
+ mountains 144
+
+ +Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan
+ diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and
+ Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other
+ diligences 145
+
+ +Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to
+ Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to
+ Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to
+ Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de
+ Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and
+ Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien
+ (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and
+ Californie (p. 152).
+
+ +Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence
+ (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165),
+ Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166).
+
+ +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to
+ Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180
+
+ +Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From
+ St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée
+ ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio
+ (map, p. 165). 182
+
+ +Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182
+
+ +Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and
+ Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183
+
+ +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant
+ walk 185
+
+ +Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189
+
+ +Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tête de Chien 191
+
+ +MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian
+ Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200
+
+ BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201
+
+ SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205
+
+ +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera,
+ or the Riviera di Levante 219
+
+ +Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting
+ excursion 222
+
+ PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227
+
+ PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227
+
+ LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230
+
+ FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277
+
+ GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway
+ journey 279
+
+ END OF THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+ +PARIS to TURIN+ 281
+
+ +PARIS to MODANE+ 281
+
+ AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286
+
+ +Modane to Turin+ 291
+
+ BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291
+
+ +Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305
+
+ TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306
+
+ PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d’Abriés 307
+
+ PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrières 307
+
+ SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308
+
+ CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341
+
+ +TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
+ 309
+
+ ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint
+ Bernard 320
+
+ +PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is
+ the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the
+ picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the
+ Ecrin mountains 322
+
+ GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327
+
+ +Grenoble to Briançon+ by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de
+ Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328
+
+ BOURG D’OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin
+ group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329
+
+ BRIANÇON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345
+
+ BRIANÇON TO OULX by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333
+
+ +Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps
+ another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the
+ pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333
+
+ GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336
+
+ +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban,
+ Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map,
+ p. 27) 338
+
+ ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339
+
+ DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304)
+ 339
+
+ DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339
+
+ +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N.E.
+ by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of
+ several of the important passes between France and Italy 340
+
+ GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341
+
+ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341
+
+ GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342
+
+ MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344
+
+ PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346
+
+ PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348
+
+ LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349
+
+ PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map
+ on fly-leaf) 351
+
+ MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny
+ and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356
+
+ MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and
+ Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357
+
+ ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS TO VICHY 359
+
+ CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376
+
+ LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377
+
+ MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385
+
+ A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude
+ railway station.
+
+
+
+
+MAPS AND PLANS.
+
+PAGE
+
+
+ +Ardèche+, general map of, including the northern part of
+ the department of Drôme and the southern of the
+ Haute-Loire 46
+
+ This map contains a large part of the valleys of the
+ Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage,
+ Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc.,
+ the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.
+
+ +Arles+, a town of great interest 68
+
+ +Avignon+, Plan of 59
+
+ +Bologna+, Plan of 316
+
+ +Cannes+, Environs of 155
+
+ Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.
+
+ +Cannes+, Plan of 149
+
+ +Corniche Road+ 185
+
+ Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice
+ to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more
+ beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending
+ along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway.
+
+ This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco,
+ and Menton.
+
+ +Dijon+, Plan of 20
+
+ +Estérel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+
+ 146
+
+ +Florence+, Plan of 234
+
+ The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana
+ up to the Piazza Michelangiolo.
+
+ +Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237
+
+ The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast
+ edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long
+ corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the
+ river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by
+ the upper story of the houses bordering the Via
+ Guicciardini.
+
+ +Genoa+, Plan of 214
+
+ +Hyères+, Environs of 129
+
+ As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the
+ same, the environs of both towns are given on the same
+ map.
+
+ +Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to
+ Leghorn 199
+
+ Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di
+ Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the
+ “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts on a larger scale on the
+ maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes,” and
+ the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”
+
+ +Leghorn+, Plan of 226
+
+ +Lyons+, General plan of 30
+
+ +Lyons+, Partial plan of 33
+
+ +Marseilles+, Plan of 113
+
+ +Marseilles to Cannes+ 123
+
+ This map shows the position of the towns and villages on
+ the coast and in the interior, the roads between them
+ and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance,
+ enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
+ are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of
+ Hyères,” of which the largest is Porquerolles.
+
+ +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291
+
+ This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to
+ Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to
+ Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by
+ Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
+ Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake
+ Annecy.
+
+ +Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378
+
+ +Nice+, Plan of 171
+
+ +Nîmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101
+
+ +Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated
+ towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg,
+ Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to
+ the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1
+
+ +Pisa+, Plan of 224
+
+ The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find
+ their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral,
+ the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The
+ frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
+ cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who
+ have to remain over the night should take one of the
+ hotels close to the station.
+
+ +Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_
+
+ This map shows all the railway routes in France and
+ their correspondence with the railways in Belgium,
+ Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the
+ railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône.
+
+ +Rhône and Savoy+ 107
+
+ This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France,
+ with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon.
+ The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The
+ French Riviera.
+
+ +Savona to Rapallo+ 211
+
+ Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter
+ stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi,
+ Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.
+
+ +The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163
+
+ This map shows principally the position of the towns in
+ the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near
+ Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the
+ diligences which run between France and Italy.
+
+ +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the
+ mountain-passes between them 304
+
+ +The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardèche;
+ among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the
+ source of the Loire 84
+
+ +The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the
+ railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200
+
+ +The Mouths of the Rhône+ 66
+
+ Showing the position of the canals and of the great
+ lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are
+ Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon,
+ Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
+ the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from
+ Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther
+ down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne
+ canal (p. 66).
+
+ +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance+, in
+ which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St.
+ Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of
+ interest 56
+
+ +Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107
+
+ +Toulon+, Environs of 129
+
+ This map will be found very useful in the excursions
+ by the small steamers sailing from the port.
+
+ +Troyes+, Plan of 12
+
+ +Turin+, Plan of 293
+
+ +Vichy+, Plan of 359
+
+
+
+
+CARTE DU JOUR.
+
+The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of
+some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the
+restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated.
+
+ [Transcriber’s Note:
+ The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may
+ require added salt.]
+
+SOUPS.
+
+ _Consommé_, beef-tea.
+ _Bouillon_, broth.
+ _Potage_, soup.
+ _Julienne_, vegetable soups.
+ _Purée_, pease-soup.
+ _Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,” as--
+ _Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes.
+ „ „ _marron_, mashed chestnuts.
+
+BEEF.
+
+ _Bœuf au naturel_, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.
+ _Naturel_ in cookery means “plain.”
+ _Bœuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots.
+ Nearly the same as the next.
+ _Bœuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables.
+ _Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef.
+ _Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables.
+ _Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices.
+ _Sauté_ in cookery means “sliced.”
+ _Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes.
+ In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_.
+ _Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak.
+ „ _aux pommes_, with potatoes.
+ „ _aux pommes sautées_, with sliced potatoes.
+ „ _aux haricots_, with kidney beans.
+ „ _bien cuit_, well done.
+ „ _saignant_, under done.
+ _Palais de Bœuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate.
+ _Au gratin_ in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied
+ to potatoes it means “browned.”
+
+MUTTON.
+
+ _Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops.
+ „ „ „ _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs.
+ „ „ „ _aux pointes d’asperge_, mutton chops with
+ asparagus tops.
+ „ „ „ _à la purée de pommes_, mutton chops with
+ mashed potatoes.
+ _Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton.
+ _Pieds de mouton_, sheep’s trotters.
+ _Gigot d’agneau_, a leg of lamb.
+ _Blanquette d’agneau_, hashed stewed lamb.
+ _Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys.
+ „ _sautés_, sliced kidneys.
+ _Etuvé_, stewed.
+
+VEAL.
+
+ _Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet.
+ _Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf’s head with oil and vinegar.
+ _Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf’s ear.
+ _Ris de veau_, sweetbread.
+ _Foie de veau_, calf’s liver.
+ _Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal.
+ _Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy.
+ _Jus_, gravy.
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+ _Pommes de terre_, potatoes.
+ _Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits.
+ _Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce.
+ _Chou_, cabbage.
+ _Champignons_, mushrooms.
+ _Epinards_, spinage.
+ _Fêves de marais_, garden beans.
+ _Haricots verts_, green kidney beans.
+ _Oseille_, sorrel.
+ _Petits pois_, green peas.
+ _Jardinière_ means “dressed with vegetables.”
+
+POULTRY AND GAME.
+
+ _Poularde_, fowl.
+ _Poulet_, chicken.
+ _Chapon_, capon.
+ _Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken.
+ _Des œufs à la coque_, boiled eggs.
+ _Dindonneau_, young turkey.
+ _Canard_, duck.
+ _Perdreau_, partridge.
+ _Mauviettes_, field-larks.
+ _Alouettes_, larks.
+ _Grives_, thrushes.
+ _Becasse_, woodcock.
+ _Becassine_, snipe.
+ _Chevreuil_, venison.
+ _Caille_, quail.
+
+FISH.
+
+ _Anguille_, eel.
+ _Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.
+ _Homard_, lobster.
+ _Huitres_, oysters.
+ _Merlans_, whitings.
+ _Morue_, cod.
+ _Raie_, skate.
+ _Saumon_, salmon.
+ _Sole_, sole.
+ _Turbot_, turbot.
+ _Frit_, fried.
+ _Grillé_, done on the gridiron.
+
+DESSERT.
+
+ _Compote_, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”
+ „ _de pommes_, stewed apples.
+ „ _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes.
+ _Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters.
+ „ „ „ _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters.
+ _Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds.
+
+DRINK.
+
+ _Vin de Bordeaux_, claret.
+ A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought
+ always to be drunk with it, or with common water.
+ At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying
+ a little extra.
+ _Frappé_, applied to liquids, means “iced.”
+ _Caraffe frappé_, iced water.
+ _Vin frappé_, iced wine.
+ The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a
+ _choppe_.
+ The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, a word
+ often used in the cheap restaurants.
+
+
+
+
+ [Map:
+ Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c.]
+
+
+THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+ +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice,
+ Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+
+
+
++PART I.--PARIS TO MARSEILLES.+
+
+BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles.
+
+ Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For
+ “London to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental
+ Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through
+ tickets sold at their London office.
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{ }{537}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
+No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or
+40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices,
+distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station.
+Opposite the station is the H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off
+the H. Jules César.
+
+_Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details
+as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map
+page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the
+London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to
+Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours;
+starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and
+arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35
+A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts
+for Hyères at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class
+carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate
+compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to
+Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible,
+not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to
+Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense;
+moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most
+inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey
+from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6.
+
+The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois
+de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which
+here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a
+large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. +St.
+Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college
+with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It
+contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for
+the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the
++Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and
+Robespierre resided here some time.
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.]
+
+9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop.
+1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing
+through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yères,
+pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of
+Henri IV.
+
+ On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on
+ the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas
+ Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and
+ the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and
+ his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English
+ literature.
+
+[Headnote: MELUN.]
+
+ 13¾ m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was
+ inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the
+ Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the
+ Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S.
+ from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000.
+ _Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St.
+ Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun,
+ the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and
+ the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which
+ here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names
+ of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.
+ Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway
+ station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on
+ the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is
+ the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied
+ tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the
+ church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre
+ Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street,
+ in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an
+ elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled
+ chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square
+ tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire.
+ In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8
+ windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is
+ the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in
+ the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in
+ 1514, “Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me
+ siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of
+ ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome
+ fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry
+ St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,
+ the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the
+ north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent
+ pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau
+ of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From
+ Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,
+ where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.
+
+
+[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.]
+
+ {37}{500}
+ +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from
+ the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30
+ c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most
+ expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et
+ Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the
+ main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la
+ Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is
+ the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène.
+ The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated
+ among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension
+ Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come
+ for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the
+ Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is
+ a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller’s with
+ maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest;
+ a good confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments
+ can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid
+ of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments
+ at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the
+ Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.
+
+ Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.
+
+ _Coach Tariff._--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue
+ Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the
+ forest in the shop opposite.
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the
+ day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10
+ frs. for the day.
+
+ Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following
+ prices:--
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the
+ first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first
+ hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.
+
+ A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an
+ hour.
+
+ Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.
+
+ +Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to
+ enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which
+ cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and
+ footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by
+ congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each
+ bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.
+ The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of
+ the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval
+ Blanc,” which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is
+ expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not
+ obligatory.
+
+ To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite,
+ procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The
+ “appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes
+ a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the
+ household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in
+ showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give
+ will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.
+
+ The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by
+ Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former
+ edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists.
+ Henri IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the
+ buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of
+ Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon
+ it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large
+ sums.
+
+[Headnote: ENTRANCE.]
+
+ The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL
+ BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is
+ also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by
+ nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the
+ ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself
+ away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On
+ the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the
+ island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the
+ splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his
+ wretchedness.
+
+ As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the
+ following abridged list should be read before entering.
+
+[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITÉ.]
+
+ The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which
+ has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars
+ in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place
+ entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinité+, built by Francis I. in 1529,
+ and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish
+ ambassador having remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if
+ the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was
+ married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was
+ pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The
+ paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and
+ Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the
+ reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The
+ statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St.
+ Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the
+ escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze
+ angels are by G. Pilon.
+
+[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.]
+
+ Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the
+ Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785.
+ Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass
+ now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to
+ the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on
+ which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids,
+ birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+,
+ containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on
+ which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with
+ rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the
+ Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling
+ represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed
+ restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons.
+ Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of
+ relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon
+ de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. and +Henri
+ IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany
+ table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue
+ symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling
+ arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais
+ tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built
+ by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which
+ Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used
+ to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and
+ painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis
+ XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.
+
+[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.]
+
+ APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on
+ ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On
+ console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by
+ the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by
+ Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts
+ (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de
+ Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie,
+ wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery
+ and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city
+ of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest
+ satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis
+ XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy,
+ 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain
+ table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the
+
+ GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided
+ into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing
+ mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the
+ sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated
+ on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second
+ daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the
+ room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man,
+ in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then
+ fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by
+ Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the
+ murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut
+ off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made
+ him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour.
+ Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud
+ with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he
+ was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E.
+ from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen
+ Christina’s chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her
+ secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore
+ the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and
+ beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the
+ unhappy man, she replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that
+ many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as
+ this coward.”
+
+ At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with
+ indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the
+ goddess Diana.
+
+[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS
+AND DES GARDES.]
+
+ We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes
+ by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes,
+ 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses,
+ not shown (see page 8). The other leads into
+
+ LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt
+ compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des
+ +Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of
+ Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie.
+ +Salon de François I.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their
+ dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry
+ represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco
+ by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and
+ 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry.
+ +Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the
+ earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates
+ the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was
+ born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the
+ story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the
+ Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble
+ chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian
+ statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp.
+ Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777.
+ Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis
+ Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are
+ portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the
+ Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine
+ Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance;
+ Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with
+ figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet,
+ 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at
+ each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty
+ little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with
+ the ceiling, leads to the
+
+ ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV.,
+ was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes,
+ representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo
+ dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.
+
+ GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in
+ the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one
+ side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the
+ same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I., and
+ decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls
+ are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio,
+ Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut,
+ is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls,
+ mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of
+ Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered
+ with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one
+ of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed
+ (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter
+ the
+
+ GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210
+ ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a
+ communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.
+ Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect.
+ The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso,
+ but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I.
+ From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the
+
+ APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited
+ by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.),
+ whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by
+ Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of
+ Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for
+ Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have
+ visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the
+ Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and
+ other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as
+ the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best works. Cabinet
+ (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather.
+ Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung
+ with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+
+ Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with
+ Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing
+ the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+
+ (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic
+ given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by
+ Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David.
+ Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest
+ in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead
+ of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de
+ Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of
+ Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d’Attente. Gobelins dating
+ from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.
+ +Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.
+ Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.
+
+ GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this
+ gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise
+ Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and
+ some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the
+ walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and
+ incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery
+ leading to the
+
+ SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for
+ 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII.,
+ adorned with a statue of him in stucco.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.]
+
+ LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.
+
+ +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return
+ from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The
+ painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs
+ by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar
+ is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at
+ Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in
+ 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was
+ ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about
+ the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.
+
+ Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à
+ Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same
+ dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the
+ right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.
+
+ Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+,
+ ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed.
+ It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6).
+
+ Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with
+ pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by
+ J. B. Oudry.
+
+ Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,
+ saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than
+ that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the
+ revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such
+ cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble
+ pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see
+ p. 7).
+
+ The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection
+ of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial
+ permission.
+
+
+THE COURTS.
+
+ From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe
+ staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side
+ facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through
+ the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have
+ before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to
+ the left the +Porte Dorée+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour
+ Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes
+ on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The
+ subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539.
+ And by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau,
+ driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left
+ we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow
+ buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the
+ Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal
+ entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.
+
+ At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected
+ with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de
+ Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the
+ artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The
+ gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing
+ particular.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.]
+
+ Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide
+ themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt
+ de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate
+ the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction.
+ The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of
+ the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three
+ principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:--
+
+ 1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de
+ Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle
+ Vue--Barbison par le Bas Bréau--Gorges d’Apremont et Franchard.
+
+ 2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d’Augas--Vue sur le
+ champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la
+ Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort
+ l’Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa.
+
+ 3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare
+ aux Fées--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd.
+ Maitre.
+
+ The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole
+ forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from
+ Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second contains the
+ best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as
+ from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially
+ from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the
+ 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long
+ Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. by rail
+ from Fontainebleau.
+
+ After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous
+ grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls
+ and trellis-work.
+
+
+[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{42}{495}
++MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing,
+with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates
+Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is
+principally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th.
+7½ m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of
+the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.
+
+Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town.
+_Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office.
+Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if
+time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish
+church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining
+of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is
+the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or
+rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here
+unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of
+Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates
+the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill
+overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville.
+Montereau has important potteries.
+
+
+[Headnote: SENS.]
+
+{71}{466}
++SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street,
+the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the
+promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue
+of the chemist Thénard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street
+is the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulême, when she
+visited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which,
+together with the promenade, form agreeable walks.
+
+[Headnote: THOMAS À BECKET.]
+
+ The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly
+ rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without
+ beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a
+ belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating
+ with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed
+ arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered
+ colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured
+ canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a
+ beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien,
+ first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining
+ chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by
+ G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the
+ next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall
+ by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in
+ the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied
+ by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by
+ superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on
+ entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass
+ case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple
+ worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining
+ the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove
+ that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by
+ Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century,
+ and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is
+ valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St.
+ Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon.
+ Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored
+ by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the
+ church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the
+ present buildings that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel
+ to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the
+ Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and
+ 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the
+ foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and
+ canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages
+ were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom.
+ Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour.
+
+[Headnote: TROYES.]
+
+ 41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop.
+ 39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal
+ street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the
+ Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.]
+
+ Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
+ canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
+ machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen,
+ which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds
+ sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches,
+ of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St.
+ Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station
+ being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most
+ beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished
+ till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of
+ these intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th
+ century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th.
+ Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower
+ rising above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and
+ the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the
+ nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the
+ front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty
+ clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The
+ height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The
+ glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and
+ over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The
+ marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of
+ choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in
+ wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V.
+ of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of
+ Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous
+ treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the
+ exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI.
+ should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a
+ Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the
+ church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury,
+ of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century,
+ reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th
+ century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the
+ reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
+ St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few
+ yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
+ _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a
+ large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes.
+ Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul’s
+ Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or
+ picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.;
+ [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a
+ valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and
+ works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French
+ sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days
+ from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short
+ distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little
+ beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the
+ sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th
+ century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture,
+ the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the
+ 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used
+ to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler.
+ A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix
+ over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de
+ l’Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the
+ plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is
+ +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon,
+ while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of
+ the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel “O Sacrum Convivium,”
+ are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by
+ the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the
+ Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+,
+ commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent
+ jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The
+ beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The
+ nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
+ architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West
+ from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To
+ the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
+ containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a
+ statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the
+ dead.
+
+ [Map: Troyes]
+
+ Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on
+ entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are
+ beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel
+ of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups.
+ The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on
+ consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.
+
+ South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its
+ continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.
+ Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of
+ the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village
+ and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west
+ portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and
+ ornamented by Gentil.
+
+ Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we
+ have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two,
+ 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.
+
+[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.]
+
+ The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo
+ during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city.
+ Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in
+ 1814.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{79}{458}
++VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle
+here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer” spent some days while on his
+way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint
+Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or 84 m. from Paris, is
+St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town,
+nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which
+the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong
+to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th
+cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a
+ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent.
+
+
+{91}{446}
++JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between
+the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right
+bank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most important
+part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which
+are situated St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.;
+and St. Thibault, 15th cent.
+
+
+{96}{441}
++LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon
+and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les
+Laumes, 79½ m. southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,
+Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)
+
+
+[Headnote: AUXERRE.]
+
+LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.
+
+ 12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the
+ hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the
+ most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain,
+ to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or
+ Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was
+ rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over
+ the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are
+ crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and
+ of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and
+ the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet
+ high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.
+ transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.
+ Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in
+ the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of
+ St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in
+ the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated
+ tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the
+ 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.
+
+ Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the
+ 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the
+ capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around
+ the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk
+ is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and
+ Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)
+
+ 13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on
+ the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the
+ well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur,
+ Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality
+ of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty
+ flavour.
+
+ Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly
+ a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the
+ junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les
+ Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and
+ 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)
+
+[Headnote: SERMIZELLES.]
+
+ 37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from
+ Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant),
+ for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there
+ is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private
+ vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont
+ Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then
+ back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.
+
+[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.]
+
+ +Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed
+ town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical
+ edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le
+ Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the
+ 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of
+ the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior
+ is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The
+ doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide
+ expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large
+ window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a
+ spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities
+ connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate
+ the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it
+ is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave
+ opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed
+ windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing
+ from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar
+ capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and
+ choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches
+ which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door
+ opens into what was formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the
+ 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who
+ also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir.
+ Near the abbey church is St. Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne,
+ now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as
+ parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas à Becket celebrated
+ mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful
+ forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of
+ excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have
+ included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at
+ that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under
+ Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on
+ the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June
+ 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms
+ Calvin expired.
+
+ 1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of
+ the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St.
+ Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.
+
+[Headnote: SEMUR.]
+
+ 9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the
+ Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St.
+ Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of
+ Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for
+ Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An
+ interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards
+ of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from
+ fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Forêt de
+ Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine
+ in rafts.
+
+ After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and
+ then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop.
+ 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the
+ Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre
+ Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in
+ the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a
+ sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass;
+ the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In
+ this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet
+ high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant
+ walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the
+ ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main
+ line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map
+ page 1.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{107½}{429½}
++SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In
+town, H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
+starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
+Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
+separates from the Chablis road.
+
+Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The
+parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The
+windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.
+The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes
+standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful
+rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a
+relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection
+of Jesus Christ.
+
+At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi,
+but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the
+abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre,
+13 m. S.W., stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the
+church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with
+narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand
+and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is
+upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11
+chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed
+windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly
+similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are
+the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a
+village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden
+coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the
+building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the
+sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for
+the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey
+buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited
+by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to
+wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious
+deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an
+austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with
+engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund.
+
+Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained
+till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to
+Sens.
+
+
+[Headnote: TONNERRE.]
+
+{123}{414}
++TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Courriers--
+both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion
+d’Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the
+cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right
+above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water,
+enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse
+Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the
+washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down
+to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by
+Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her
+remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar
+(died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis
+de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some
+excellent wine.
+
+
+[Headnote: TANLAY.]
+
+{127½}{409½}
++TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armançon. A small village with a handsome
+castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de
+Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of
+Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The
+principal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the
+Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under
+the presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents,
+under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the most
+prominent part in the political and religious events of that period.
+Catherine de Médicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the
+Condé as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed
+recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the
+splendid chimney-pieces is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds
+are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier,
+both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel,
+pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for
+truffles.
+
+
+[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.]
+
+{136}{401}
++ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545,
+and built according to the plans of Primaticcio.
+
+
+{142}{395}
++NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris and
+Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles
+north-east to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits.
+In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of
+Rochefort, 17th and 18th cents.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTBARD.]
+
+{151}{386}
++MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la
+Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small village
+on the 7th of September 1707. His château, a plain large house, is
+entered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station.
+The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the western
+front of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows and
+one door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue his
+studies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds of
+the château, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of the
+Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by his
+son, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days
+before the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at the
+entrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb of
+Buffon. A black stone slab over the door bears the following
+inscription:--
+
+ BUFFON
+ A été inhumé dans le
+ Caveau de cette chapelle
+ Le 20 Avril 1788.
+
+There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the
+abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.
+
+
+{160}{377}
++LES LAUMES.+ _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount
+Auxois, 1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from
+the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_
+H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under
+Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands
+just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has
+some curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of
+September. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a
+beautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of
+the abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable
+collection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists.
+(See page 14.)
+
+
+{165}{372}
++DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steep
+mountains 1315 ft. high. _Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are
+curious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus
+at station for +Flavigny+, 1½ mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390
+ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent.,
+with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Convent
+of the Ursulines, with splendid view.
+
+
+[Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE.]
+
+{171¼}{365¾}
++VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the
++Source of the Seine+, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the
+woods, but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the
+village of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards
+Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the
+farmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left
+and follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte
+d’Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first
+the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine
+(1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a
+little garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house
+beyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of a
+recumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or
+guide 5 frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please
+can go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles
+south, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.
+A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine
+is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.
+
+
+{179}{358}
++BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces
+through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet
+long, and 1330 feet above the sea.
+
+
+{190}{347}
++VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and before
+reaching the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold
+railway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers
+of arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long.
+From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from
+Nevers. (For Autun, see page 24.)
+
+ [Map: DIJON
+
+ The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle
+ built by Louis XI., now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the
+ Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large
+ building at the foot of the Rue Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient
+ Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Hôtel de Ville, the
+ Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6
+ St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is
+ the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No. 8) is St.
+ Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is
+ St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.]
+
+[Headnote: DIJON.]
+
+{196}{341}
++DIJON+, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_
+La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Near
+the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and the
+Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous for mustard,
+gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.
+
+Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding hour.
+Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.
+Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce,
+82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent
+road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See page 19.)
+
+[Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS.]
+
+The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was
+inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire;
+but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, the
+Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor,
+and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, and
+commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, and
+is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des Beaux
+Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the right
+side of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Other
+days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are the
+magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son
+Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the
+two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white
+marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty
+statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the
+articles which belonged to them in this room are three
+beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;
+and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and
+the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died
+1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two
+statues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each,
+but in reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few
+choice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is
+considered one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and
+the kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys.
+Fronting the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses
+arranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue
+des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence
+of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the
+spiral staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches in
+height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or
+serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,
+like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the
+roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine
+Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54
+of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double
+arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME.] Close to the
+Rue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, a very beautiful
+and interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is
+the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the Rue
+Chaudronnière, the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from the
+front of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly the
+palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises
+is of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same
+room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty
+little chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre
+is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the
+18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street,
+R. Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious
+frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue
+Guillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in
+1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and
+a little to the N.E. by a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St.
+Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau
+beside the curious little church, 2 miles N.W. by the road of that name.
+[Headnote: ST. BENIGNE. ST. JEAN. BOSSUET.] Towards the right is St.
+Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built
+in 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805.
+The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the
+13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski
+(1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In
+the N. aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains of
+Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a
+narthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillery
+store. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,
+founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in
+1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery
+of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without
+merit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this
+“Place,” 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and
+illustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death of
+Henrietta Anne, the daughter of our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of
+Orleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALIÉNÉS.] At
+the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile des
+Aliénés+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379.
+Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are the kneeling
+effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts.
+Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautiful
+glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken to
+the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of a
+hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets,
+by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the ducal monuments
+in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful,
+and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on an
+average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but an
+admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura
+are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its charges
+are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number of
+pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d’eau,
+and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards the
+extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southern
+continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny,
+the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to the
+public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopes
+of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or, extending from N.E.
+to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises
+another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering the
+lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow the
+first-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Macon
+wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten years
+in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.
+
+
+[Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.]
+
+{203}{334}
++GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1¼ mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for their
+first-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin.
+Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in the commune of Gevrey,
+produce also first-class Burgundies.
+
+
+{206¼}{330¾}
++VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier.
+Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class
+Burgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant,
+Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache.
+
+
+{209½}{327½}
++NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The
+best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of an
+exquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St.
+Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent., and St. Denis to the 14th.
+8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house of
+detention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to be
+agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in
+1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order,
+and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St.
+Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798.
+
+
+[Headnote: BEAUNE.]
+
+{219}{318}
++BEAUNE+, pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream
+Buzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal in
+Burgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it
+are the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of
+these the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most
+valuable wine, under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the
+Pommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The
+principal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains
+semicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian
+capitals.
+
+In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to
+Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in
+1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic
+School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the
+15th cent.--a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseil
+upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting of
+the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, with
+a château built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide,
+the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.
+
+
+[Headnote: MEURSAULT.]
+
+{223½}{313½}
++MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits
+passengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here are
+the Goutte d’Or, a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white
+wine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny,
+where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.
+
+
+{228}{309}
++CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers
+102 m. W., passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. W.,
+and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagny
+southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around
+Chagny produce a first-class quality.
+
+ Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in
+ this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles distant is
+ the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a deep
+ fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of the
+ castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a
+ remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal
+ mines.
+
+[Headnote: AUTUN.]
+
+ 26 m. W. from Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche.
+ This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves
+ the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent
+ a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period,
+ when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his
+ headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that
+ the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into
+ Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,” considers, however,
+ that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14
+ miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of
+ pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been discovered. The
+ walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and 8 feet thick, and
+ were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of
+ which two--the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. André,
+ lately restored--still remain. The Porte d’Arroux and the temple of
+ Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the
+ Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of
+ the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the
+ entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern
+ portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers
+ have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior
+ contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a
+ handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the
+ Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads
+ to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great
+ antiquity.
+
+ In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the
+ Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789
+ Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.
+
+[Headnote: MONTCHANIN.]
+
+ 73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, is
+ +Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits
+ passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly
+ of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits,
+ foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town
+ is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which
+ connects the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.
+
+[Headnote: LE CREUSOT.]
+
+ 78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from
+ Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in
+ the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the
+ principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers.
+ Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which
+ enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the
+ coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them
+ from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling
+ suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general
+ feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks,
+ shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few
+ priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two
+ hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878
+ by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is
+ imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all
+ manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise.
+
+ West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is +Etang+, with an
+ ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the
+ Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12 m. to St.
+ Honoré-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m.
+ E. from Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy
+ by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix,
+ close to station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_
+ Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in
+ the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais,
+ which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish
+ church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the
+ 10th cent., containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle
+ works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{235}{302}
++CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ at the station, Hôtel
+Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer to
+Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plain
+on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good
+quays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, a Gothic edifice of the
+latter part of the 13th cent., occupying the site of a church founded in
+532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St.
+Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, and
+another at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon
+is St. Marcel, where Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but
+the monastery has disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop.
+3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to
+
+
+{243}{294}
++VARENNES.+ South from this station the train passes before the abbey of
+St. Ambreuil.
+
+
+{254}{283}
++TOURNUS+, on the Saône, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An
+untidy town on the Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the
+Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the
+citizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among
+the finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here
+on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting
+Gothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and
+the latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics.
+The Hôtel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718,
+and the Hôtel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce
+good wines.
+
+ [Map:
+ The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy.]
+
+
+[Headnote: MACON.]
+
+{274}{263}
++MACON+, pop. 20,000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with
+line to Bourg, 41 m. E. _Hotels._--Near the station, H. Étrangers. In
+town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the
+steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons,
+Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs
+Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an
+inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays
+which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12
+arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of
+the river. The oldest edifice is the +Cathedral+ of St. Vincent, built
+in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, and
+the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal
+palace. In this neighbourhood, at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house
+where Lamartine was born. On a black marble slab over the door are the
+words:--Ici est né Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre
+1790.
+
+In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, the
+beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque style,
+and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.
+
+From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to Paray-le-Monial,
+passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line extends to Geneva
+74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See
+Black’s _France_, North Half, and map page 1.)
+
+[Headnote: CLUNY.]
+
+ +Cluny+, pop. 5000. In the valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne;
+ Pavilions--both near each other. This is the place where
+ Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in the 10th cent, the famous abbey of
+ Cluny. The abbey buildings are now used as a school. Of the abbey
+ church an insignificant portion alone remains, and of it the most
+ interesting part is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th
+ cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards
+ distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., with flattened
+ elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the
+ entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the first
+ church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;
+ entrance, ½-franc each.
+
+[Headnote: PARAY-LE-MONIAL.]
+
+ 41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial,
+ pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across the
+ bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the
+ Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the
+ Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de
+ Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice
+ built in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to
+ it, occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.
+
+ A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish
+ church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th
+ cent. Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal
+ roofs, llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an
+ octagonal tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated
+ spire. From the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and
+ short attached columns.
+
+ From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads
+ up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and
+ established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the
+ monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their
+ chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in
+ 1854. To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in
+ this building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her
+ interviews with J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are painted
+ light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so hung
+ with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of them
+ is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3 angels
+ before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair and dressed
+ in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red and
+ outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds
+ her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of
+ her. To the left of entrance the pictures are--1st, a Vision; 2d,
+ Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of
+ Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The picture
+ over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when J. C.
+ is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and sanctified
+ this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for ever.” On
+ the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied by
+ numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders
+ of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the
+ special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship
+ there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of
+ J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing one
+ of the above incidents.
+
+ The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in
+ the habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a
+ coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with
+ rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft.
+ long. On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail;
+ at other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made
+ of one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born
+ 22d July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the
+ convent of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the
+ vows on the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had
+ been chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was
+ seized with a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her
+ life. She met at first with great opposition in her endeavours to
+ institute the worship of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as
+ a visionary till 1675, when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of
+ the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last
+ illness she said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my
+ Saviour commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was
+ canonised by Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution
+ of N. D. de Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has
+ decreased. In Paray there are 3 nunneries and a vast building
+ belonging to the Jesuits.
+
+ From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône,
+ whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page
+ 26.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROMANECHE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{283}{254}
++ROMANECHE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine,
+with a pleasant flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should
+be drunk in the second year from the vintage.
+
+
+[Headnote: BELLEVILLE.]
+
+{288½}{248½}
++BELLEVILLE+, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the
+next Belleville, 1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn,
+the H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small
+round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in
+those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small
+circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the
+Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to
+Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious
+houses. (Map, page 26.)
+
+
+{297}{240}
++VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 12,600, on the river Morgan, near the
+Saône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. Containing important linen
+manufactories, and vineyards producing a good white wine. The parish
+church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is
+Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the
+Saône. _Inns:_ Terrasse; France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in
+this town the _Journal de Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de
+Trévoux_ in 1704.
+
+
+{306}{231}
++ST. GERMAIN AU-MONT-D’OR+, junction with line from Paris to Lyons, by
+Roanne and Tarare.
+
+
+[Headnote: LYONS.]
+
+{318}{219}
++LYONS+, pop. 343,000. The Perrache railway station is 218 m. from
+Paris, 219 m. from Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from
+Bourg, 104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,
+100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin.
+
+_Hotels (first-class)._--H. de l’Europe, admirably situated, with one
+side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the Place
+Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de la
+République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon. H. Bellecour in the
+Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also
+well situated. In the Place Perrache, below the station, are the hotels
+Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du Parc.
+
+_Less expensive Hotels._--The H. du Globe; and the Havre et du
+Luxemburg--both near the Place Bellecour. Near the Place des Terreaux in
+the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des
+Négociants, a large house frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the
+Négociants, at No. 47 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des
+Étrangers, Place de la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg,
+8 frs., in the Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National,
+opposite the theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General
+Hospital, the H. Bourne. A great many diligences start from this
+neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine,
+close to the Place des Terreaux, one of the cheapest. Among the best
+cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café
+Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la République; Café du Rhône,
+Place Bellecour. They have English newspapers. In Lyons the term
+Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, cordials, and brandies are
+sold.
+
+_Post Office._--Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at the
+south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade of
+the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.
+
+_Telegraph._--Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. Branch
+offices--Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand.
+
+[Headnote: RAILWAY STATIONS. CAB FARES.]
+
+_Railway Stations._--The great and central station is the +Gare de
+Perrache+, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and the
+Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on the
+railway to Bourg. The +Bourg or Satonay+ railway station is at the top
+of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner of the Place
+des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the hill by a
+rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per 100, and
+the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de la Croix
+Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway carriages. The
+rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a convenient way
+of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The Dombes or +St.
+Paul’s+ railway station is for Montbrison, 40 m. S.W. The Vaise and
+Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the Perrache station. The
+Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the Parc de la Tête d’Or,
+is the terminus of the best of the trams.
+
+ CAB FARES
+ +-------------------------+-----------------------+----------------+
+ | | DE 7 H. DU MATIN | DE MINUIT |
+ | | a Minuit. | a 7 H. du Mat. |
+ | KIND OF CAB. +-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+ | | La |La 1re.| Les H.| La | |
+ | |course.|heure. | suiv. |course.|l’heure.|
+ +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+ |A 2 places (coupés) | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 25 | 1 65 | 2 50 |
+ |A 4 places (berlines) | 1 50 | 2 | 1 50 | 2 | 3 |
+ |Voitures découvertes | | | | | |
+ | à 2 places| 1 75 | 2 | 1 75 | 2 15 | 3 |
+ | à 4 places| 2 | 2 50 | 2 | 2 50 | 3 50 |
+ +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+
+The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs with
+2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations the
+omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.
+
+ [Map: Lyons]
+
+[Headnote: TRAMWAYS. THEATRES. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Tramways._--The fares are moderate, and most of the cars comfortable.
+The best to take to see the principal parts of the town is the large
+roomy car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteaux
+railway station, passing through the P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue
+Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and P. de la République between the Hôtel de
+Ville and the Grand Theatre, across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour
+Morand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At the
+Brotteaux terminus the road by the side of the fort “des Charpennes”
+leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40), which
+having visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10
+minutes, or by the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité.
+The outside of the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4.
+The two most important places to visit on the return journey are the
+Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38).
+Tram between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare
+outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out
+at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, pop.
+4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.
+
+_Theatres._--The +Grand Théâtre+, between the Hôtel de Ville and the
+Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, 6 frs. The +Théâtre des Célestins+,
+between the Rue St. Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls,
+4 frs. +Théâtre Bellecour+, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new
+theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for
+3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls
+cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the Théâtre des
+Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. Antoine; and
+the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.
+
+_Steamers on the Saône_ (Les Guèpes).--Sail between the Quai St. Antoine
+(to the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In
+summer 5 departures daily.
+
+Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place Perrache,
+by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quai
+de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the Pont du Port
+another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling likewise at
+numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, and between
+them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.
+
+The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. Claire
+on the +Rhône and Aix-les-Bains+ on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
+Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, calling at
+the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing and shipping
+of cargo.
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
+
+_Sights._--Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Drive in tram car,
+outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteaux
+railway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40. The
+galleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silk
+manufacture, page 38.
+
+Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest
+rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach
+each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part
+of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,
+the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the
+R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful
+squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place
+Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In
+the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, which was
+taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the
+municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour
+(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with
+trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,
+which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in
+1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two
+squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,
+during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,
+on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings
+pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see page 37).
+
+The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of
+substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24
+miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux
+Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind
+the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short
+sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31.
+
+ [Map: Lyons]
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE-DAME-DE-FOURVIÈRE. ROPE RAILWAY.]
+
+The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of
++Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière+, standing on the site of the forum erected by
+Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvière is
+supposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible,
+even should there be no time for anything else, on account of the
+excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces.
+At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt+ across the Saône, at the
+upper side of the “Place,” is the rope railway, which ascends through
+tunnels the hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about
+¾ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right
+hand, by the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road
+is a large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially
+devoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has
+accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman
+palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this
+hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière,
+lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the
+pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,
+medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels.
+
+[Headnote: OBSERVATOIRE GAY. ST. PAUL.]
+
+On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, is
+the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from
+which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high.
+This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb
+view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are
+immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont
+Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church
+below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.
+The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,
+which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.
+It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object
+in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an
+octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the
+four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three
+large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top
+of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff
+sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the
+neighbourhood are convents. A little eastward is the “Observatoire Gay,”
+from which a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards
+long, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station of
+the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this station is the
+church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful N. portal, the
+handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, a few of the
+windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church of
+the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches of
+Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which they
+are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent.
+
+[Headnote: ST. IRÉNÉE.]
+
+The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue
+Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short
+distance of the church of +St. Irénée+, on the summit of a hill in the
+suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a
+Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by
+the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance
+into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,
+which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the
+first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St.
+Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St.
+Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre
+St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y
+furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in
+1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of
+animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée,
+restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the
+saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first
+flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the
+original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were
+thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,
+A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c.
+The church of St. Irénée has nothing particular. To the west, in the
+parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
+water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable of
+supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply of
+Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL OF ST. JEAN.]
+
+Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the Tilsit
+bridge, is the +Cathedral+ of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th cent.,
+repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and
+reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates
+from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the
+13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely
+decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from
+W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th
+cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown
+flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right
+hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother
+Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,
+and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of
+the arches and the vault of the roof are richly decorated. In the N.
+transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in
+1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an Asiatic
+Greek, who preached in this city A.D. 177, and sealed his doctrines with
+his blood. Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent.,
+formerly the bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.
+
+A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)
+occupied in the 13th cent. by the +Knight Templars+. Above the cathedral
+is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of the large
+market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24
+Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the court
+rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up--the Pont de
+Nemours--leads directly to the church of +Saint Nizier+, with the façade
+towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville.
+The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by Philibert Delorme,
+a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. The rest of the
+building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a broad triforium
+with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the church. The vaulting
+shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In the chapel of the south
+transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the foot of the pier in this
+transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th cent. At the south side
+of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, a modern edifice, with a beautiful
+portal of the 11th cent., all that remains of the original church.
+
+[Headnote: PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS.]
+
+On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the +Palais des
+Beaux-Arts+, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames Bénédictines
+de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the museums. Open
+to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from 11 to 4, and
+to strangers daily.
+
+[Headnote: MUSÉE LAPIDAIRE.]
+
+Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are the
+ancient marbles or +Musée Lapidaire+, one of the best in Europe. The
+sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, in
+many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these records
+of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the Augustan age
+upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of that day were
+already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner of the court on
+entering is the stair which leads up to the Archæological Museum and the
+Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. Up on the second floor is the
+collection of paintings by the “peintres lyonnais.”
+
+[Headnote: MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE.]
+
+The Musée Archéologique is well arranged and carefully labelled. The
+only object we would indicate, as it is apt to be overlooked, is the
+bronze table, A.D. 48, in the second room left hand, with inscribed
+portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, imploring
+the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a Roman
+colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This table
+was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. Germanicus,
+and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, were also
+born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time prefect of
+Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs in
+hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,
+armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,
+rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on
+the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic
+collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at
+Lyons from 43 B.C. to 1857. Adjoining and on the same floor is the
+Picture Gallery, contained in six small rooms, of which the first three
+contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, the next two the Italian and
+Spanish schools, and the sixth the French school. They are all carefully
+labelled. Among the pictures which represent the Flemish school are
+works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich,
+Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish schools are
+represented by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo,
+Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor of the fourth room is a remarkably
+perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by 3, representing chariot races in
+the Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay.
+
+[Headnote: GALERIE CHENAVARD.]
+
+In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie
+Chenavard on the first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him
+illustrative of the scenes which accompanied the introduction of
+Christianity into France. They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris,
+but, the age of reason supervening, they were not sent. On the floors
+are three beautiful mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above
+are the best pictures--J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,
+P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619;
+P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, 1748-1825;
+Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens,
+Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J.
+Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension of Christ,
+considered the gem of the collection. This picture, originally in the
+church of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII. “in
+attestato del suo affetto é della grata sua rimembranza per la citta di
+Lione.” The lower part of the picture is by far the best, the figures in
+the air are too massive, and the posture of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera,
+1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael,
+A. del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565;
+Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.
+
+The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the
++Mineralogical Collection+, in which are represented the characteristic
+rocks and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores
+from the mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000
+engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the
+arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every
+evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.
+
+[Headnote: PLACE TERREAUX. HÔTEL DE VILLE.]
+
+On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, built
+in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by domed
+square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft.
+long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. From the
+centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over the
+entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within the
+vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the
+brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood
+originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.
+
+In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, in
+the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting in
+the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it
+became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the
+executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish
+this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.
+
+[Headnote: CONDITION DES SOIES.]
+
+Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, is
+the establishment of the +Condition des Soies+, where the bales of silk
+brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron
+grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from
+64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.
+The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first
+story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St.
+Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite
+end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.
+
+[Headnote: BOURSE. LIBRARY.]
+
+In the Rue de la République is the +Bourse+, a profusely ornamented
+edifice inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built
+in the 14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée
+with the public library, containing the great terrestrial globe made at
+Lyons in 1701, indicating the great African lakes, the rediscovery of
+which has been one of the events of the present century. There are
+160,000 volumes and 2500 manuscripts,--about 600 of the printed works
+being incunabula, and 25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian
+period.
+
+[Headnote: SILK MUSEUM.]
+
+In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the +Art and
+Manufacture+ of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays
+between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,
+specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to
+centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far
+the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first
+and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly
+artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely
+designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the
+hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting
+posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also
+the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms
+from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains
+part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom
+made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to
+produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely
+changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same
+loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was
+B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are improved
+copies.
+
+The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of
+silk--displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, as
+well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every
+condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and
+hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.
+Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.
+
+Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for
+these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to
+hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals,
+have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure
+is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, which makes a silk
+dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, with an occasional
+alteration, it was worn for years.
+
+In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large covered
+markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive in
+tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway
+travelling provision. (See page 42.)
+
+[Headnote: CITY HOSPITAL AND WORKHOUSE.]
+
+Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and the
+other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the +Hôtel
+Dieu+, or general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by
+Childebert and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally
+the work of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the
+beds, about 1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per
+day. The rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards
+are arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under
+the small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from
+their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,
+containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are
+tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the
+Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at
+Oullins for incurables.
+
+In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.
+Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at
+Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a
+built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it
+is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.
+
+Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly
+decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,
+of Sainte Valentine.
+
+Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, on
+the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes who
+have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be
+mothers. The church was built in 1617.
+
+[Headnote: ST. MARTIN D’AINAY.]
+
+North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across the
+Saône, is the church of +St. Martin d’Ainay+, which, with the monastery,
+was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, on the site
+of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour of Cæsar
+Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the Saracens, in the
+8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by Pope
+Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired and altered. The
+style belongs to what is called modern Greek, introduced into France
+under Charlemagne. The cupola of the chancel rests on circular
+pendentive arches springing from four granite columns which stood
+formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were originally 2, but were cut
+into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal chapels are by H. Flandrin,
+a native of +Lyons+. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint
+Blandina, in which a short stair leads down to the crypt and the
+dungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and
+Blandina, a converted slave, were kept before being tortured and put to
+death in A.D. 177, during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, the
+implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. square, was,
+as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on account of the
+overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to their present
+level.
+
+[Headnote: PARC DE LA TÊTE-D’OR.]
+
+The Parc de la Tête-d’Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E.
+extremity of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the
+left bank of the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an
+abundant supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden
+with hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a
+dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale.
+Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the
+Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of
+objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history,
+religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The
+institution publishes essays and translations.
+
+By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large
+barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.
+
+Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of
+silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on
+the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom
+has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings,
+are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can
+work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more
+_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La Croix
+Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the Saône.
+The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of looms,
+who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a finished
+state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is estimated
+at £15,000,000.
+
+[Headnote: THE DYEING OF SILK--ORIGIN OF LYONS.]
+
+The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. Many
+experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and in
+particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its
+colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he
+received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour.
+Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a
+brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand.
+Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a
+permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk
+were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The
+worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed
+in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of
+persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is
+now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of
+gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries,
+foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and
+hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large trade
+is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring departments,
+and known as _marrons de Lyon_.
+
+The earliest Gallic occupants of the territory at the confluence of the
+Rhône and the Saône were the Segusians. In 590 B.C. some Greek refugees
+from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained permission of the natives
+to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, called their new town by
+the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 B.C. Munatius Plancus brought a
+Roman colony to Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired
+importance, and was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great
+roads. Augustus, besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre,
+gave it a senate and made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies
+from the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of
+Forum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the
+_jus senatus_. The town, burnt by Nero in 59 A.D., was rebuilt by him in
+a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus.
+
+[Headnote: MONT-D’OR. CHEESE.]
+
+Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions from
+Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus starting
+from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or,
+3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending. Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus
+office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on a wide terrace
+commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is poor and dirty,
+and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont Ceindre walk from the
+omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend by the telegraph
+posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent and descent can be done
+easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to Lyons by the returning
+coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some houses, an old hermitage, and
+a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. The view is grand, embracing
+the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the towns of Bugey and
+Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, and the Alps. Mont
+Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 ft.; and Mont Houx,
+2008 ft., form together +Mont-d’Or+, a group of mountains covered with
+vineyards and meadows. The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the
+best and most celebrated in France. They are soft, round, and flat,
+about 5 inches in diameter and half an inch thick, like round pancakes.
+They are made from a mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to
+derive their peculiar flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats
+feed during a considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore
+(likewise famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small
+boxes. The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by
+Roche-Cardon, a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy
+excursion is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats)
+going up the Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat
+going to St. Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank,
+1½ m. above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of
+Cuire. In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the
+bridge passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses,
+and the tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail
+is the best part of the excursion, not the island.
+
+For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône,
+see p. 81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; Paris to
+Lyons by Tarare, p. 348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne,
+Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and map p. 27.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIENNE.]
+
+{338}{199}
++VIENNE+, pop. 27,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the
+capital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of
+important edifices, which indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in
+the days of Cicero were no strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding
+the Augustan age. The most interesting of these is the +Maison Carrée+,
+an oblong temple of the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his
+wife Livia, 55 ft. high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way
+north from the cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace
+fronting the chain bridge is +St. Maurice+, a beautiful Gothic cathedral
+commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the roof of the nave 88
+ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the altar the
+skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died in 1723.
+At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other end of the
+chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up the
+Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a stair
+leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, where Pontius
+Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life (it
+is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About ¼ m. down the Rhône
+from the railway station, by the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide de
+l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It is 52 feet high, and
+rises from four arches resting on a square basement. Columns with
+cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, which cannot date earlier
+than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial town, with important
+woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On the
+other side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le
+Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village
+among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château
+de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the
+year was to commence with the first of January.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON.]
+
+{356½}{180½}
++ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON+, junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by
+Rives 35 m., and Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m.
+W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to Annonay (see page
+81, and map pages 26 and 46).
+
+5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. _Inn:_
+Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the town is the
+restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaure
+are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of the
+Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page 46).
+
+
+[Headnote: TAIN.]
+
+{368}{169}
++TAIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the
+Rhône, immediately opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of the
+hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety has
+a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxurious
+wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small.
+ Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence
+ and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13,000. _Inns:_ Europe; Midi.
+ Situated at the confluence of the Isère with the Savasse, crossed by a
+ bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.
+
+
+[Headnote: VALENCE.]
+
+{384}{153}
++VALENCE+, pop. 24,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first
+the most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant
+schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m.
+west. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an
+eminence rising from the Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the
+site of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the Place
+Championnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by François. It
+commands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In the
+distance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In
+this Place is the statue “au General Championnet, sorti des rangs du
+peuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.
+
+To the left of the statue is the cathedral +St. Apollinaire+, built in
+1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were
+rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable
+appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves.
+A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the
+round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by
+restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached
+Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of
+the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone.
+From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being
+occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust
+by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His remains
+were removed to Rome.
+
+Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral chapel
+(22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. On
+each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flat
+dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, built in
+1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work.
+The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into the
+court are in a much better state of preservation.
+ The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their
+ transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th
+ cent., and a picture gallery.
+
+[Headnote: VERNOUX.]
+
+ Rail to Grenoble, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus
+ daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach by St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W.
+ Vernoux, 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple
+ Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, situated in the midst
+ of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. A large proportion of
+ the inhabitants are Protestants.
+
+[Headnote: COACHES FROM VALENCE.]
+
+ Valence is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche.
+ Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les
+ Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83).
+ The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La
+ Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape;
+ whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St.
+ Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. du Pont, they
+ meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur
+ one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and
+ Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. from
+ St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to
+ Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see also pages 93
+ and 94). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by
+ Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of
+ the day intercepts the rays of the sun.
+
+
+ARDÈCHE.
+
+(See Map, page 46).
+
+ Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September.
+ In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best
+ houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of
+ fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee,
+ bread often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is
+ potatoes sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a
+ pleasant soup of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are
+ required for the accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which
+ each hamlet has at least 2, while the larger villages and towns have
+ from 4 to 8, besides market-days. One of the prettiest sights in
+ Ardèche is to see the people flocking from every direction along the
+ winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is being
+ held--many on foot driving small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or
+ cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, and
+ often an old hen; others with carts loaded with potatoes; others
+ travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and others on horseback,
+ the women as well as the men being astride.
+
+ Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight
+ forbidding, but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of
+ things improves rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural
+ products are potatoes and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut,
+ walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, cultivated on terraces
+ supported by low stone walls of rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in
+ the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are of
+ a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured and light brown, with large bones
+ and white horns generally tipped with black.
+
+ At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and
+ grown-up women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above
+ 8s., and many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman
+ shears it off in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only a
+ little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank,
+ and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take
+ the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females
+ during their long winters is lace-making.
+
+ Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont
+ Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The
+ most central station of the diligences is Le Cheilard (see page
+ 83).
+
+ After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts
+ of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and
+ 23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.
+
+
+[Headnote: LIVRON.]
+
+{395}{142}
++LIVRON+, pop. 4500, on the Drôme, at some distance from the station.
+Restaurants at station. Inns in the town. On the other side of the
+Rhône, connected by railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ m. W. (see p. 82).
+ A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from
+ Livron, 68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and
+ Marseilles. As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the
+ picturesque and well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is
+ a large Protestant population, nearly every village having its Temple
+ Protestant (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56).
+
+[Headnote: CREST.]
+
+ 11 miles E. from Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_
+ Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade,
+ by the side of the river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The
+ omnibuses of the two hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly
+ on the Drôme and partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the
+ foot, in the market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque.
+ Straight up from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of
+ 116 steps, is the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde,
+ attached to the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the
+ hospital and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the
+ enclosure, on which stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly
+ the remains of a castle which was added to it in the 13th cent. The
+ highest side is 170 ft. above the ground, and the other three 148 ft.,
+ ascended by 260 steps. Although so high, the view is limited by the
+ high side, into which visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives
+ below in the town, near the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the
+ first narrow street, left from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière,
+ which continue to a stone lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend
+ by the path, right, to the Calvary, where there is a splendid view of
+ the valley of the Drôme.
+
+ [Map: Ardeche: Its Vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes]
+
+[Headnote: SAOU.]
+
+ Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ m. S.W. (see Index); also
+ to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the copious source of
+ the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. 3 miles from
+ Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach also to Bourdeaux,
+ 16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest (see map, p. 56). Saou,
+ pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, is a poor dirty village on the Vebre.
+ _Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed up with and built into the surrounding
+ squalid houses are the remains of the abbey church and buildings of
+ Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are the wall and
+ square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are within the
+ court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th and 13th
+ cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of the
+ narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains,
+ from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata
+ piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic
+ forms. It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the
+ commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream,
+ is the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the
+ other side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column.
+ Mt. Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called
+ the Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square
+ house, with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best
+ parts of the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its
+ termination, where the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of
+ 5324 ft. above the sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At
+ the foot of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley
+ becomes so narrow that there is scarcely sufficient room for the
+ stream to pass through. 2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and,
+ a little beyond, the terminus of the valley.
+
+[Headnote: BOURDEAUX. DIEULEFIT.]
+
+ Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_
+ Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N.
+ from Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town,
+ composed of squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping
+ up the hill, crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the
+ 8th cent. Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief
+ industries. Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the
+ courrier requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain
+ ridge, the Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.
+
+ Dieulefit, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the
+ Jabron at the foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart,
+ between which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are
+ silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a
+ coarse kitchen ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to
+ Montelimart are Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under
+ Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a
+ considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56).
+
+
+[Headnote: DIE.]
+
+CREST TO ASPRES (Maps, pp. 46 and 56).
+
+ _Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die._--The road as far as the Pass
+ de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town passed is
+ Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Lambert; Latour. In
+ a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is Pontaix, similarly situated.
+ 23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die, pop. 4000, the
+ principal town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the
+ Mérosse. _Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes--the coach stops between them;
+ Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank
+ during its first year; in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach
+ to Châtillon, 12 m. S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain
+ surrounded by mountains, of which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz,
+ 6648 ft. above the sea, flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top
+ is an undulating plateau, covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5
+ hrs. required for the ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the
+ rustic but not uncomfortable establishment of Sallières-les-Bains;
+ pension per day, with baths, 9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations
+ résineuses.” The bath resembles a large oven, in which, after having
+ been heated with resinous fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish
+ bath. Open from 15th June to 15th September. The landlord is likewise
+ proprietor of a large part of Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his
+ supplies of fir-wood. On the top of a hill on the other side of the
+ Drôme is a similar establishment, called the Martouret, pension 12
+ frs. The way to it strikes off the main road opposite the eminence, on
+ which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding a very good view of the
+ valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at one of the old
+ gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which makes the tour of the
+ ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry trees. At the other end
+ of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better gateway or Roman
+ triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The parish church has
+ been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.
+
+[Headnote: LUC. ASPRES.]
+
+ From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which
+ changes horses at +LUC+ en Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; Église
+ Protestante, 10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town,
+ among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high
+ mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost
+ closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from
+ the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of
+ Beaurières (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is now
+ commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres,
+ 15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from
+ Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall
+ 195 ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre
+ d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to
+ the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing
+ mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best
+ when 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is situated on the railway,
+ 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach
+ sets down passengers either at the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand.
+ The church has been rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the
+ tympanum a curious representation of the Trinity.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTÉLIMART.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{412}{125}
++MONTÉLIMART+, pop. 12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion
+and Jabron with the Rhône. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; in
+the town the Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil,
+on the W. side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p. 49; Dieulefit, p. 47;
+Bourdeaux, p. 47; and Nyons, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and
+Princes. Up the Grande Rue is the principal church. On the opposite side
+of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post Office, the Palais de Justice,
+and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in the
+Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 ft. wide, bearing in
+Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. At the end of the street,
+the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the Temple Protestant.
+Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, “Nougat,” of which the best
+is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an eminence on the side of the
+town farthest from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour de
+Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni,
+became a Roman settlement under the name of Montilium, which was changed
+afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar by a powerful family, who came into
+possession of it in the days of Charlemagne. To the same family belonged
+also Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see page 92, and map
+page 56).
+
+Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, 2½ m. S.E.
+ Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by
+ Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer.
+ (See map, page 56.)
+
+ According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way
+ between Montelimart and Grignan, “there existed down to 1802 the first
+ white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by
+ Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one of the soldiers who
+ accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, in 1494.” The
+ mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of France than
+ the olive (see map, page 56).
+
+[Headnote: GRIGNAN. MARQUISE DE SÉVIGNÉ.]
+
+ +Grignan+, pop. 1900; _Inn:_ Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill
+ on the top of which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and
+ ugly half-ruined and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died.
+ The former Salle du Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery,
+ containing upwards of 300 paintings, among which the most interesting
+ are--the portraits of Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About
+ half-way up the hill is the church, commenced in the 12th cent. In
+ front of the altar a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by 1½ wide, bears
+ the following inscription:-- “Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal,
+ Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above the well, in the
+ “Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About ½ m.
+ from the town is what was one of her favourite walks to an overhanging
+ ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbière. To visit it,
+ descend from the inn, then take the first byeroad right, by a row of
+ poplars to a short stair. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m.
+ S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan. +Valréas+ (pronounce the “s”), 8¼ m.
+ from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ H. du Nord, is partly
+ surrounded with its old walls, garnished with square towers and
+ pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. from Nyons by
+ Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, _Inn:_ H. du Commerce, pop. 1200, is
+ also partly surrounded with its old walls.
+
+
+{420}{117}
++DONZERE.+ H. du Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four
+and a half miles south is +Pierrelatte+ station, and the terminus of the
+unfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan.
+ Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time
+ 45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an
+ interesting cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics
+ have been found in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+[Headnote: LA CROISIERE.]
+
+{432}{105}
++LA CROISIERE.+ Two small inns at station.
+ Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe, 3½ m.
+ W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. Fare, 40 c.
+ The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in 1265 and
+ finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at the W.
+ end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for the
+ convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit,
+ see page 98).
+
+ Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the valleys
+ of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. _Inn:_
+ Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures of fire-bricks and
+ clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to
+ Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; _Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed
+ here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Near the
+ village of Vinsobres a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons
+ and Vaison. At Nyons the coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H.
+ du Louvre; whence the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart
+ (see map, page 56).
+
+[Headnote: NYONS.]
+
+ +NYONS+, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place;
+ Voyageurs, in a corner. Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons,
+ surrounded by high mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and
+ therefore eminently fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The
+ orange and palm do not grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond,
+ fig, peach, and pear trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine
+ truffles. Silk mills and the preserving of fruit and truffles supply
+ the principal industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on
+ an eminence partly surrounded with its old walls garnished with square
+ towers, 14th cent. The vieux château, or centre tower, has been
+ converted by the curate into a chapel surmounted with an image of the
+ “immaculately conceived.” The part of the town below is called Les
+ Halles, whose dirty streets are bordered with thick heavy arches. The
+ rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The
+ bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch and considerably higher in the
+ centre than at the ends.
+
+[Headnote: THE PONTIAS BREEZE.]
+
+ Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is
+ the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that
+ the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is
+ very cold, and blows from 5 P.M. to 9 A.M. In summer it is pleasant,
+ and blows from 9 P.M. to 7 A.M. The peculiarity is, that the degree of
+ force is constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave,
+ commence from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the
+ Rue Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last
+ tower a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a
+ small chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a
+ pavilion. Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the
+ part of the ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the
+ back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by
+ this latter way retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path
+ for 116 yards; while those who have come by the other go 116 yards
+ beyond the chapel. Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be
+ observed the thin ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is
+ the entrance to the Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of
+ insignificant dimension. Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are
+ several crevices. The view of the valley of the Aigues from this hill
+ is very beautiful. The ascent takes 35 minutes.
+
+
+NYONS TO SERRES.
+
+ +Nyons to Serres+ (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east by the valleys of
+ the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by high mountains. Time,
+ 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns passed are at a
+ considerable height above the road, and sometimes on account of the
+ steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first village
+ passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons, and 3½ m.
+ from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from Nyons.
+ A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of the river,
+ here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill on the
+ S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the
+ mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road
+ crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St.
+ May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on
+ the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a
+ lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river
+ to the village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its
+ junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of
+ the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. from
+ Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or 15½ m. from
+ Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret,
+ whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the Blème,
+ passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_
+ Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from Marseilles and 77½
+ S. from Grenoble (see p. 340).
+
+
+[Headnote: ORANGE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{444}{93}
++ORANGE+, pop. 10,300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the
+Arausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to
+the hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour
+of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A.D. 21. It stands
+E. and W., is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep,
+and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft.
+and each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented
+with six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved
+Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the
+shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows,
+etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat.
+
+At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre at
+the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ of
+Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in style the churches of
+the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the great
+type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the buttresses,
+and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. A plain and ugly
+square tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place de
+l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to “Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange,
+vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the
+town, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin,
+a writer on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in
+1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and
+imposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in
+a semicircular form, has a façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The
+wall is 13 ft. thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular
+wall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500
+spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of a
+quantity of rubbish.
+
+[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN.]
+
+In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably under
+Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just been noticed. On
+the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third line of princes,
+the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René (Renatus) of
+Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor his
+cousin William I., stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The title
+“Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice,
+Frederick-Henry, William I., William II., and William III. After the
+Revolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party were
+designated Orangemen, from the title of their leader, William III.,
+Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672,
+but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there
+were two claimants--John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by
+William’s will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed to be
+nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will of
+Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the principality a
+forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to the Prince of
+Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should have
+the _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty of
+Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the title and coat of arms to the
+King of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz von
+Oranien). John William Friso, however, also took the title, and his
+successors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all been
+designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast numbers of silkworms are
+reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison
+17½ m. N.E. (Map p. 56.)
+
+[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN.]
+
+ +Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene,
+ 17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m. W. from Le
+ Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left
+ side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by
+ a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the left side a
+ more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid
+ streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the
+ ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It
+ is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square
+ tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with
+ round and early pointed arches and square tower at S.E. end. The view
+ from the terrace is beautiful.
+
+ The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and
+ very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the
+ town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute
+ angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of
+ the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a
+ little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as
+ they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as
+ the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches,
+ there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone,
+ excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and
+ an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east
+ end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to
+ the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an
+ equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the
+ apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars
+ has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on
+ each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin
+ died in 578.
+
+ Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves
+ of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of
+ medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are
+ pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.
+ The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed
+ arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered
+ pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof,
+ also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th
+ cent.; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of
+ blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel,
+ at the N.E. side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a
+ very beautiful cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the
+ cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded
+ by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At
+ the corners is either a massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5
+ colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself
+ are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a
+ skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of
+ the “Immaculée” on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman
+ column. (Map p. 56.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SORGUES.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{455}{82}
++SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction
+with line to Carpentras, 10½ m. eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10,500, on
+an eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_
+Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the
+Hôtel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a
+portrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the
+centre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie
+d’Inguimbert. From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public
+building is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.
+ The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side
+ of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of
+ Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a
+ pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.
+ Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a
+ “Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the
+ pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her
+ milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the
+ cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them
+ are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the
+ right hand of J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of
+ Mary painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another
+ “Coronation” by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and
+ Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and
+ a crucifix in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand,
+ is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft.
+ high (but originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft.
+ span. On the N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold
+ relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side
+ stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the
+ cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the
+ south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of
+ preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From
+ the top hangs the dress of a warrior.
+
+[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM.]
+
+ The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte
+ d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only
+ three sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded
+ the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From
+ the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal
+ aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance,
+ between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from
+ N.W. to S.E., with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to
+ Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The
+ canal, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends
+ from the Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost
+ £90,000. In the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory
+ of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the
+ library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of
+ manuscripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare
+ incunables, and above 4000 vols., for which there is not sufficient
+ accommodation. In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman
+ statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small
+ Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an
+ Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B.C., 19¼ in. long by
+ 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow
+ borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with
+ uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on
+ which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second
+ compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the
+ jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the
+ four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is
+ an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are
+ injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot
+ Mailly in 1646.
+
+[Headnote: TRUFFLES.]
+
+ Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured,
+ or white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has
+ the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of
+ Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below
+ the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the
+ common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from
+ November to the end of March, after which those which remain become
+ soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind
+ is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In
+ size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the
+ largest may weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are
+ sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow
+ being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its
+ duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its
+ powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When
+ just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between
+ its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead
+ two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue
+ the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.
+
+[Headnote: ORTOLANS.]
+
+ The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras,
+ migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets
+ laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into
+ dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month’s time they
+ become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and
+ sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The
+ singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling
+ out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping
+ them in a dark apartment till August.
+
+ Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,”
+ a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike
+ barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is
+ Eysseric.
+
+ Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from
+ the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices
+ moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the
+ vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.
+
+ Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras 6½ m.,
+ and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and
+ Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E.,
+ passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by
+ Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach
+ to Sault 28½ m. E.
+
+ Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to
+ L’Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.
+ Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by Venasque
+ 7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.)
+
+[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX.]
+
+ Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8¾ m. N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300.
+ _Inn:_ Hôtel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274
+ ft., by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about
+ 2 m. from the village and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope.
+ Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary.
+ Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of
+ the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending
+ to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little
+ distance along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off
+ to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The
+ mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise
+ from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P.M., and await the
+ appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on
+ the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range,
+ an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every
+ form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and
+ fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre de
+ Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village
+ 2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of
+ sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up
+ at different parts of the department.
+
+ [Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance]
+
+[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE.]
+
+ Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of
+ +St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old château.
+ Rooms from 1½ fr. to 3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and
+ dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat,
+ breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr.
+ First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study
+ gratis; but in the guests’ room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the
+ style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is
+ impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_térébenthiné_). It has a
+ beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is
+ 2¾ m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p. 56).
+
+ Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N.E.,
+ by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N.W.
+ extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le Barroux on
+ a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of
+ Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is
+ +Malaucene+, 1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Cours,
+ in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the
+ calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is the
+ spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous
+ cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent.
+ The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in
+ motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may
+ visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from
+ Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more
+ picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of
+ the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein,
+ 4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft.
+
+ The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the
+ Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with,
+ in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.
+ Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the
+ bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien.
+ No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good
+ the length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St.
+ Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m. E., Lacombe
+ 13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the road descends to the
+ railway by the valley of the Céans.
+
+[Headnote: LE BUIS.]
+
+ +LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a
+ hollow on the Ouvèze surrounded by mountains covered with olive,
+ mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata
+ cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form,
+ either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness
+ and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to
+ the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the
+ winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next
+ bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right:
+ for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the
+ left, just before reaching the bridge.
+
+
+ [Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.
+
+ +1.+ Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the
+ Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of
+ Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of
+ the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads
+ down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the
+ promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a
+ seminary. Below the Pope’s Palace is +B+, the Place de l’Hotel de
+ Ville, with the H. de Ville and theatre. The street +C C+,
+ extending southward to the principal station, is called the R. de
+ la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind,
+ +3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little
+ farther S.W. is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Musée Calvet,
+ and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien,
+ a museum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph’s
+ College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers,
+ where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of
+ the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+,
+ beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road
+ to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de Ville
+ is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the
+ station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the
+ Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the
+ Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel
+ Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur. 17. Prison.
+ 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture.
+ 22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais.
+ B, Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue
+ Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie.
+ J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. M, Porte du
+ Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte
+ L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de
+ l’Oulle.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{461}{76}
++AVIGNON+, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls,
+garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the
+Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. N.E. from
++Nîmes+ by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and Remoulins.
+_Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the
+centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. Temple
+Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the Préfecture. Cabstands at station
+and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 2 frs. per hour. From the station,
+a beautiful avenue, the Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de
+l’Hôtel de Ville, with statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri
+IV., “Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de
+l’infanterie française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the
+road leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des
+Domes, and the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the
+ramparts, compose the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the
+palace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite
+gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The
+churches are closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public
+on Sundays between 12 and 4.
+
+[Headnote: AVIGNON PALACE.]
+
+The present +Palace+, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, and finished
+by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, consisting of plain
+walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by long ungainly
+buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, are the arms
+of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, the balcony from
+which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is the Cour
+d’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, pierced by from
+3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of the same size.
+From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur, a groined staircase, of
+which the steps were formerly of marble, to the Salle Consistoriale
+d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before this hall was divided
+into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170 long. From it we enter
+the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone Memmi of Sienna.
+Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the left the small
+window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby tunnelled in the
+wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie de Conclave, the
+Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then enter the Tour St.
+Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, or the chapel of the
++Inquisition+, with mural paintings. In the story immediately below is
+the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through a
+large hall, we enter an octagonal room, gradually narrowing towards the
+centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, called the Tour Strapade. Some
+say this was the torture room; but it is evidently more suited for a
+kitchen, which in all probability it was. Adjoining is the Glacière,
+into whose underground cellars, now built up, the democrats of 1791
+flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had murdered. From this we
+enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour Trouillas, in which Rienzi
+was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain fixed to the roof of his
+cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 to 1234, and till 1793,
+the half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical edifices, which
+tolled daily 300 bells, and had among them a daily succession of
+religious processions.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHER DES DOMS. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, the
++Rocher des Doms+; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a
+public garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who
+introduced, in 1766, the culture of the “garance,” the _Rubia
+tinctoria_, now superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a
+stair leads down to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet (see page 63). In
+the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and on the other side
+are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above it
+the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the Cathedral
++Notre-Dame-des-Doms+, 194 feet above the Rhône, approached by a stair
+called the Pater, because originally it had as many steps as there are
+words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has undergone many changes, and
+belongs to various periods. The portal and lower part of the tower are
+of the 10th cent., and are due to Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries
+later. The apse was added in 1671. The most remarkable part of the
+structure is the cupola, terminating in an octagonal lantern, and
+supported on pendentive arches. It bears traces of frescoes painted in
+1672. In the sanctuary is the marble throne used by the Popes, in the
+sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII., and in one of the side
+chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (right hand) is a
+Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The sacristan is generally in the
+small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ fr. for showing the church and
+the tomb.
+
+Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end a
+tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other side
+of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the eastern end of
+the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts every hour from
+the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops at the east end
+of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.
+
+[Headnote: ST. AGRICOL. MUSÉE CALVET.]
+
+In the “Place” the principal edifice is the +Hôtel de Ville+, built in
+1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th cent, of which all that
+remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard and his wife, from the
+two figures which strike the hours. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the
+theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. Agricol+, 1340, the
+patron saint of Avignon. To the right on entering is the tomb of the
+painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April 1725, aged 86, and third chapel on
+same side is a virgin and child in wood by Coysevox. To the left of the
+entrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the foot of
+the short street St. Agricol, in the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built
+in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue Calade is the +Musée Calvet+, containing a
+valuable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from
+12 to 4, and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday.
+Against the wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this
+museum, Claud François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On
+the right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to
+Laura de Sade, dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the
+Cordeliers (see p. 62). On the other side is the tomb of the military
+strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the outer court, and in the
+rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are Roman altars, monuments,
+milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin inscriptions, found in the
+neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p. 53). Among the
+sculptures in relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses
+with their hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent.,
+from Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the
+Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches
+and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope Urbain V.,
+of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal Palice. Within
+railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, and a bather by
+Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is a valuable
+collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and medals,
+including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes during
+their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition while
+here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings,
+including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures
+have the artists’ names affixed. Those in the great hall are by Albano,
+Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio,
+Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati,
+F. Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and
+N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa,
+Teuiers jun., Veronese, Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room
+are the paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few
+by Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen.
+In the centre of an inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is
+the famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting
+the arms, a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said
+that Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art.
+Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the R. Petrarque or
+de la République, we have on the right the Museum of Natural History in
+the church St. Martial, 15th cent. [Headnote: REQUIEN.] The greater part
+of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851, and of them the
+most interesting are those connected with the neighbourhood, such as the
+flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the fossils from Aix. In the
+eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at No. 62 R. des Lices, is the
+Collége +Saint Joseph+, containing within its grounds all that remains
+(the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of the church of the
+Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired, and
+is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely admitted. It is to the left
+of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no vestiges, having been
+destroyed along with the church by an infuriated mob in 1791. On the E.
+side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow R. Prévot, is the church of +St.
+Dedier+, 1355, containing, in first chapel right from entrance, a relief
+in marble representing Christ bearing his cross, executed by Francesco
+in 1481 at the request of King René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft.
+above the floor, is a stone pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave
+of St. Bénézet is under a plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front
+of the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and
+to the east of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre
+(9 in plan), 1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The
+pictures about the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and
+Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
+the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and
+Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town
++hospital+ (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built in the
+last century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354.
+Here, outside the town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the
+left, is the Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of
+the entrance. [Headnote: J. S. MILL.] In a corner at the end of a short
+avenue of pine trees is the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill,
+b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet
+Mill, his beloved wife, who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe,
+Nov. 3, 1858. A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the
+whole surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be
+taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in
+1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint,
+and architect, +Bénézet+, who before had constructed one over the
+Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 ft. long
+and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain.
+ On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics
+ of St. Bénézet were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON.]
+
++Avignon to Villeneuve.+
+
+Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station, while
+every hour an omnibus crosses for +Villeneuve-les-Avignon+, pop. 3100,
+2½ m. from the “Place,” or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near the parish
+church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the chapel to the
+left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty
+elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs
+is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture
+belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two
+subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different
+artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads,
+even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most
+charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as
+a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the
+Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV.,
+where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she
+married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where
+her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law,
+the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she
+steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her
+drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on
+the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times
+with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to
+be broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by
+Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno.
+Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in the
+14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing extraordinary.
+Near it are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an
+eminence Fort André, now inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for
+Avignon starts every hour at the hour, from the apsidal end of the
+parish church of Villeneuve.
+
+Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the Mistral,
+yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, “Avenio
+ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours from the
+drains in some of the streets being very offensive.
+
+Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was
+forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General
+Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery,
+the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in
+this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade,
+opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”
+
+
+[Headnote: AVIGNON TO NÎMES. L’ISLE.]
+
++Avignon to Nîmes.+
+
+Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting from
+the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those wishing
+to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets for the
+Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with luggage,
+it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, without loss
+of time on arriving, take other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving the
+luggage behind. Time will generally be saved by returning from the Pont
+to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the road, but 5 m. by the rail. See
+Map, p. 56. For Nîmes see p. 101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p. 104.
+Consult the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting.
+
+
+[Headnote: L’ISLE. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE.]
+
++Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle.+
+
+From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the village
+of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L’Isle, pop. 7000, a village on the
+Sorgues, with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome
+reredos over high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent
+dates from the 11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle
+hotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take
+them to Vaucluse and back for 4 frs. each. From the village of Vaucluse,
+pop. 600, take for the fountain the road on the right bank of stream,
+but for the house and garden of Petrarch take the left side, crossing
+the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff near the cloth mill, is a
+small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of which it is a copy. Before it,
+is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s garden. On the other side of the
+Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a little hotel at Vaucluse, the
+Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the
+source of the river Sorgue, the placid +Fontaine de Vaucluse+, about 30
+yards in diameter-- “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still,
+that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and
+water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to
+contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into
+the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock
+crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal
+Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description
+of the site:-- “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; on
+another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day heats, and
+which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its friendly shade;
+but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance a
+surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes,
+walnuts, almonds--these are my delights. My table is also graced with
+the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my greatest pleasures
+to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw them myself. All
+about me is changed. I once used to dress myself with care; now you
+would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house resembles that of
+Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The house of my servant
+adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and when I have no more need
+of him he returns home.”
+
+[Headnote: PETRARCH.]
+
+On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of Avignon
+Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a
+romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful
+vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France,
+Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned
+to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.
+
+Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to 18
+frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.
+
+20½ m. from Avignon by rail is Cavaillon (p. 66), whence a branch line
+extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the
+Marseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22½ m. S. to +Miramas+
+(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p. 66.)
+
+
+[Headnote: APT.]
+
+AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.
+
+ 40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is +Apt+, pop. 7000, on
+ the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered hollow surrounded by mountains and
+ calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The *Louvre; des Alpes. The principal
+ industries are agriculture, pottery, and the making of preserved
+ fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as that on which the
+ sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to soak from 2 to 8 months in
+ a strong solution of white sugar, in uncovered “terrines,” like small
+ basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such as oranges, are pricked before
+ being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is near the station,
+ to the left on descending the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in
+ thick beds close to the establishment, and resembles that of
+ Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting fire, and is
+ therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen pottery. M.
+ Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea services, of which
+ the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the establishment of L. A.
+ Esbérard, who confines himself almost exclusively to kitchen
+ pottery.
+
+ The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on
+ entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower.
+ Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of
+ the mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which
+ many are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque
+ (_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E., and Reillanne,
+ on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on the rail between
+ Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66.)
+
+ +Cavaillon to Miramas+, 22½ m. S. (see map, p. 66), across a fertile
+ plain, with vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees.
+ +Cavaillon+ (pop. 8000). _Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station.
+ Cavaillon is a pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on
+ the Durance at the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an
+ ancient triumphal arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th
+ cents., with a cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the
+ neighbourhood. 4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is +Orgon+ (pop. 3000. _Inns:_
+ Paris; Poste), on the Durance. 11 m. farther S. is +Salon+ (pop. 7100.
+ _Inns:_ Poste; Croix de Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town,
+ dealing largely in first-class olive oil, has still remnants of its
+ old ramparts: a church, St. Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St.
+ Laurent, of the 14th, and a castle of the same date. In the town is a
+ fountain to the memory of Adam de Craponne, the engineer of the canal.
+ (For Miramas, see p. 75.)
+
+ [Map: The Mouths of the Rhone]
+
+
+[Headnote: TARASCON. MARTHA’S TOMB.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{474}{63}
++TARASCON+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs,
+the Luxembourg; in the town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to
+Nîmes, 17 m. W., and 31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a
+large hospital for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc
+Molière. Tarascon is an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite
+Beaucaire, and connected with it by a chain bridge 1450 feet long. In
+the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is an ancient crypt,
+just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of Lazarus,
+whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the peaceful-looking
+marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of the place says she
+had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of the inhabitants, to
+kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a bull’s, and having
+succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, after her death
+buried her in this place. A few steps from the church, by the side of
+the river, rises the massive strong square castle, begun in 1400 and
+finished by the Roi René, now used as a prison. On the opposite side of
+the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are the more picturesque ruins of the
+castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining garden forms one of the many
+promenades of the people of Beaucaire. Beaucaire is a poor town with
+poor houses. The formerly famous fair, commencing on July 1, has become
+now of little importance. It is held in the broad avenue between the
+castle and the Rhône.
+
+[Headnote: ST. REMY. LES BAUX.]
+
+9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is +St. Remy+, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Hôtel
+du Cheval Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for
+Les Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and Mont-Majour,
+19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel Cheval Blanc, by the high
+road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the commercial stations of the
+Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it fell into the possession of
+the Romans, who have left here two remarkable monuments, of which the
+more perfect consists of an open square tower standing on a massive
+pedestal, and surmounted by a peristyle of ten columns surrounding two
+statues representing the parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of
+the Julii, by whom it was erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the
+statues look to the north. The sculpture on the north side of the
+pedestal represents a cavalry fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west,
+a combat between infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated,
+“Victory crowning a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch,
+of which the most perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the
+soffit.
+
+6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is +Les Baux+, the ancient Castrum de Baucis,
+pop. 100. _Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in
+485, occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature
+into bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by
+ancient art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art
+and nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie
+cheek-by-jowl with masses of the rough-hewn rock; fallen cavern vaults
+are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped spandrel and clustered column
+shaft; the doors and windows of old pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and
+wild fig tapestry; while winding staircases start midway upon the cliff
+and lead to vacancy. High overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang
+chambers--lady’s bower or poet’s singing room--now inaccessible, the
+haunt of hawks and swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb-- “cette ville
+en monolithe,” as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped
+out of one mountain block--live a few poor people, foddering their
+wretched goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their
+mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux
+road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles (see
+map, page 66).
+
+
+[Headnote: ARLES.]
+
+{483}{54}
++ARLES+, pop. 26,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in the
+Place du Forum. Arles is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a
+marshy place, as its original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words,
+“Ar lach,” damp place, indicates. It is said to have been founded 900
+years before Marseilles, 700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the
+birth of Christ. The ramparts and walls rising from the public gardens
+and the Boulevard des Aliscamps are chiefly the work of the Emperor
+Constantine, who came to Arles with his family and mother, Saint Helena.
+He built by the side of the Rhône a superb palace, called afterwards
+“de la Trouille,” because opposite a ferry-boat, which was pulled or
+dragged from one side of the river to the other. Of this palace little
+more remains than the attached tower La Trouille, constructed of
+alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th August 312 his wife
+Faustina presented him with a son, Constantine II., who succeeded his
+father in May 357. He commenced the Forum, but was shortly after killed
+in battle defending himself against his brother Constance, who usurped
+the throne and finished the Forum. All that remains of this formerly
+splendid edifice are the two Corinthian columns, with part of the
+pediment encrusted into the wall of the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the
+site of the Place du Forum, called also the Place des Hommes, because
+labourers and men-servants used to be hired in this “Place.”
+
+In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on
+the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The
+spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these
+baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an
+ossuary.
+
+ [Map: Arles]
+
+Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, now the
+Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi,
+urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, those of the
+Pagans having the letters D.M., _Diis manibus_. Also some of the long
+lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius Porthinus fac.,”
+which helped to bring water from the fountain at the foot of the hill on
+which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is a torse of Mithras
+of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in 1598 on the site
+of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the body, and between the
+coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite corner is an altar in
+Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,” found under the church
+La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak leaves and acorns, and 7
+inches distant from each other two human ears. Near it is a good head of
+Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About the centre of the room is
+a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine skin under his arm.
+
+In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, hewn
+by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in the
+Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges remain.
+
+[Headnote: ST. TROPHIME.]
+
+Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the
+17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221,
+consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are
+statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum
+is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists.
+In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the
+cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the
+16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.
+
+Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, we
+arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, and
+finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin,
+originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian
+columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the
+proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators,
+with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most
+valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to
+the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to strangers.
+
+[Headnote: AMPHITHEATRE.]
+
+A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing +Amphitheatre+ or
+Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius Nero,
+B.C. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. long and 132 wide, surrounded by a
+double wall 60 ft. high, each with two stages of arches, and in each
+stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers of stone seats,
+capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps leading up to
+them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were besides above
+150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the theatre, and 100
+dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by the Saracens in the
+8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, when a multitude of
+spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the galleries. A splendid
+view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of the commencement of the delta
+of the Rhône, is had from the western tower. The entrance into the
+amphitheatre is by the north gate. The doorkeeper lives in a house a
+little to the left of the gate. This grand ruin should, if possible, be
+visited by moonlight; yet during the day the beautiful masonry is more
+easily examined. It is the great sight in Arles, and it is better to
+omit all the others than to do this one hurriedly.
+
+The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of
+Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the
+Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east
+by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with
+extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It
+is best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St.
+Louis on the mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and map, p. 66.)
+
+[Headnote: ELYSEI CAMPI. TROPHIMUS.]
+
+S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on the
+site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down the
+Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. The
+first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the
+monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side
+by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without
+lids. This, the Elysei Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested
+of all its valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As
+J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of the
+cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be
+especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury
+their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with
+their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône,
+of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of
+the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel
+founded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s converts, who was
+sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end to human
+sacrifices. Among the first things he is said to have done was to
+consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus from a heathen into a
+Christian burial-place, and add to it a little chapel. An old Arles
+writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus dedicated this chapel
+to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 years in this diocese he
+died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried in the little chapel he
+himself had built. Among the successors of Trophimus were Ambrose in
+160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in 220, who died 10 years
+afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years afterwards; Marcien in
+252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. Cyprien in 253. Saint
+Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the church of St. Honorat
+beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church dates only from the
+12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, excepting the
+foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is semicircular, with 4
+pilasters and a small window in the centre to give light to the
+officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry in two arcaded
+stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper calls a small
+chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel of Trophimus.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+The Picture Gallery, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure,
+near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the
+town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. On
+picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the
+picture gallery is the school of design.
+
+Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E., passing Mont-Majour 4 m.
+E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les Baux by a good road. Junction at
+Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, 36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m.
+S.W.; Cette is 17 m. farther. (See map, p. 66.)
+
+[Headnote: MONT-MAJOUR.]
+
+4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and abbey
+of Mont-Majour, all in a good state of preservation, excepting the
+domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The concierge lives in a house
+near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He generally shows first the church, 11th
+cent., and the spacious crypt below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are
+the cloisters, 11th cent., of the same kind as those of St. Trophime,
+but more interesting and more perfect, and containing the tombs of some
+of the counts of Anjou. Next is the beautiful square dungeon tower,
+nearly as perfect as when erected in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is
+ascended by 137 steps, and commands a wide prospect. From this, a stair
+leads down the face of the hill to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus,
+principally hewn in the soft limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base
+of the hill is St. Croix, dedicated in 1019, consisting of four
+semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting from a square
+tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille (Hôtel du
+Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous sandstone.
+
+[Headnote: PORT SAINT LOUIS.]
+
+ +Arles to Port Saint Louis+, at the mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S.
+ by steamer on the Great Rhône. Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway
+ unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part
+ of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by
+ irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines.
+ Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass
+ which cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that
+ not a village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p. 70.)
+
+ +Port Saint Louis+ (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc,
+ consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of
+ the canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône.
+ This canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand
+ the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed
+ to every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,”
+ whence the plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals,
+ appears literally like a map. The only villages seen in the vast
+ expanse are Fos, on a hill, and near it the Port Bouc.
+
+ Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient
+ place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from
+ Marseilles.
+
+ 23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great
+ Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or
+ simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by
+ fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good
+ sculpture.
+
+ For +Arles to Port Bouc+, 29 m. S., see p. 76. The steamer sails from
+ the S.W. corner of Arles (see map, page 66).
+
+[Headnote: ST. GILLES. LUNEL.]
+
+ 11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is +St. Gilles+, pop. 7000. Hôtel du
+ Cheval-Blanc. A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes,
+ near the Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered
+ a good specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a
+ bald wall with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are
+ three semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on
+ two single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but
+ the pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque
+ animals in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches
+ of the portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints,
+ separated from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a
+ nave and two aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N.
+ aisle a stair of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with
+ semicircular arches on short massive piers. From the centre 7 more
+ steps descend to the tomb of St. Gilles. All the characteristics of
+ this church are equally well represented in St. Trophime of Arles.
+
+ 16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is +Lunel+, pop. 7300.
+ _Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of narrow streets,
+ with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The church is
+ constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and Perpignan.
+ On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The first-class
+ vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to 18°, are all
+ on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.
+
+[Headnote: AIGUES-MORTES.]
+
+ 8 m. S. by rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of
+ +AIGUES-MORTES+, “stagnant waters,” pop. 4300, 4 m. from the
+ Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and connected with it by a
+ navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is of great historical
+ interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old embrasured wall in
+ France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 yds. long by 149
+ yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 towers. On the
+ western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, 96 ft. high
+ and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed circular
+ chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their
+ Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties
+ that the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their
+ behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for
+ them, but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the
+ highly interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône,
+ whence the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has
+ not, receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis--we think
+ not. Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint
+ Louis, who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it
+ the most suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for
+ Palestine. On 25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church
+ Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen
+ Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to
+ Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place;
+ and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition,
+ the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. S.
+ from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the bathing
+ station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see map, page
+ 66).
+
+ 49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page 105.)
+
+
+ 96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from Nîmes,
+ and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is
+
+[Headnote: MONTPELLIER.]
+
+ +MONTPELLIER+, on the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above
+ the sea and 7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. _Hotels:_ H. Nevet, the best
+ and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the same
+ side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings
+ containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and
+ the Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays.
+ Adjoining is the Lycée.
+
+ In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, the
+ next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc, frequented by
+ commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la Gare. In the fine
+ broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Place
+ de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second class. Their omnibuses
+ await passengers.
+
+ Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office
+ in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume.
+ From the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de
+ la Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below
+ the prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, p. 66.)
+
+[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
+
+ The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from
+ the station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the
+ citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a
+ line of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the Botanic
+ Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, founded in
+ the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the direction of the
+ famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 acres, divided
+ into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., in a hollow,
+ surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these two
+ divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once
+ famous +École de médecine+, said to have been founded by Arab
+ physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now
+ occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with
+ additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez,
+ 1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts
+ of the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the
+ college and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also
+ valuable anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with
+ 55,000 vols. Adjoining is the +Cathedral+ of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th
+ cents., but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White
+ marble statue of Mary and child by Canova.
+
+ Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place
+ du Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold
+ weather invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower
+ terrace of this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western
+ end of the Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian
+ building, which receives and distributes through the town the water
+ brought from the fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The
+ aqueduct, which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite
+ hill, consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long.
+ The gate at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the
+ victories of Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with
+ statues of Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked
+ streets, are the Mairie and the markets.
+
+[Headnote: MUSÉE FABRE.]
+
+ A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also
+ on the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the +Musée
+ Fabre+, the Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the
+ “Collection de la Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on
+ Sundays and Mondays and feast days, contains, among many works of
+ inferior merit, some good pictures by great artists, such as Berghem,
+ Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van Dyck,
+ Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese,
+ Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens,
+ Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. The
+ library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, which
+ belonged to Prince Charles Edward.
+
+ Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called
+ St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of
+ preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the
+ principal industries.
+
+ From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line extends
+ through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and
+ yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m.
+ south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is
+ the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the
+ Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume and
+ linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. 3 m. from
+ Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the mineral water
+ establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and sedative. Good
+ for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north from Montpellier
+ is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu (pop. 500) to
+ the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and having on the
+ top a chapel visited by pilgrims.
+
+ From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from
+ Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, page 27.)
+
+[Headnote: FRONTIGNAN. CETTE.]
+
+ 109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is +Frontignan+, pop. 3000.
+ Possessing 570 acres of vineyards producing rich amber-coloured,
+ luscious, and spirituous wines, made principally from the clairette
+ and picardan grapes. The neighbouring marshes yield annually about
+ 50,000 tons of salt.
+
+ 114 m. from Marseilles is +Cette+, pop. 29,000. At this point the
+ Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du
+ Midi, and consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to
+ Toulouse and Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur
+ des Chemins de Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from
+ Bordeaux, and 84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await
+ passengers. _Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette
+ makes a pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt.
+ Setius, 590 ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest
+ part of the Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is
+ magnificent. In front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with
+ its villages. At the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond
+ Frontignan. The Port of Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds.
+ long, which encloses a harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two
+ jetties; the western, constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the
+ eastern 548 yds. This busy port, besides having an extensive carrying
+ trade, has a large wine manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of
+ imitations of all the well-known wines are made annually, by mixing
+ different wines with each other.
+
+ From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway
+ bridge) a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze,
+ on Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade.
+ Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline
+ springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. A quart
+ contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the chloride of
+ magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 grains of the
+ sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 to 9 fr., and
+ the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du Midi enters Lake
+ Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See map, page 27.)
+
+
+[Headnote: MIRAMAS. PORT BOUC.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{503}{34}
++MIRAMAS+, pop. 900, south from the station at the head of the Étang
+Chamas. At the station there are a small inn and a large plantation of
+almond trees, which, when in flower, exhale a delightful perfume.
+Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon and L’Isle change carriages here
+(p. 65). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. south.
+
+
+MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.
+
++Miramas to Port Bouc+ by rail through a flat plain (see map, p. 66).
+The two most important towns passed on the way are: +Istres+, 6¼ m. from
+Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, founded in the 8th
+cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of its ancient
+ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt and of the
+carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is +Fos+ (Fossae Marianae), pop.
+1100, on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent.
+ At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large
+ tanks for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by
+ rail, or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29
+ miles S. from Arles by the canal, is +Port Bouc+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_
+ near the stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du
+ Commerce; near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang
+ Caroute, near the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is
+ an important fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour.
+ At the end of the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of
+ 10 m. At the other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive
+ square tower in the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west
+ from Port Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. Louis, page 72.
+ (For Port Bouc to Martigues and Marseilles, see p. 118.)
+
+ +Port Bouc to Arles+, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs;
+ fare, 3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are
+ very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between
+ Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about
+ ½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. Passengers
+ drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors at the
+ S.W. corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map p. 66.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT CHAMAS.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{506½}{30½}
++SAINT CHAMAS+ (Sanctus Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. from the
+station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre, and on
+both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with
+excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder
+manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville is
+the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre,
+with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about
+22 ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian
+pilaster surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice.
+On the top at each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are
+apparently ready to spring eastward, and the other two westward. The
+bridge is in a state of perfect repair, but the sculpture and
+inscription on the two arches over the entrances are slightly effaced.
+The road to it is by the Hôtel de Ville and the parish church with a
+rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the portal. The bridge is to the E. of
+St. Chamas, and is well seen from the railway, especially when crossing
+the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, which carry the rail over the
+little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. E. from St. Chamas is Berre
+station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly south, on +Lake Berre+,
+a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in circumference.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROGNAC.]
+
+{519½}{17½}
++ROGNAC+, pop. 900. Junction with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under
+the Roquefavour aqueduct, 7½ m. E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft.
+of water per second from the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring
+plain, commences opposite Pertuis, directly north from Marseilles. It is
+94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under ground; it has a fall of 614
+ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of limestone hills, and crosses
+numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the largest crosses the ravine
+of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three
+tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½ ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft.
+wide at the water-way. It consists of 51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and
+cost £151,394, while the cost of the whole canal from the Durance to the
+sea, near Cape Croisette, a little to the east of Marseilles, has been
+£2,090,000. A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons
+per minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by
+irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the
+basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the
+Palais de Longchamp. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps
+pp. 66 and 123.)
+
+To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, pass
+under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path and
+partly by steps to the house of the concierge.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIX. HÔTEL DE VILLE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+ 16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only
+ 18 m. N. by Gardanne, is +Aix+-en-Provence, pop. 29,000. _Hotels:_
+ Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east end of the
+ Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the Hôtel du
+ Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the France; at
+ the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel
+ Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph offices
+ in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite the
+ Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was founded
+ 120 B.C. by the Consul Sextius Calvinus around the thermal springs,
+ which he himself had discovered. The temperature of the water is 95°
+ F., and the ingredients, iron and iodine, the carbonates, sulphates,
+ and chlorides of soda and magnesia, together with an organic
+ bituminous matter strongly impregnated with glairine. The
+ establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours Sextius.
+ Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the Cours René is
+ a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king of Naples,
+ Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and buried at
+ Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, was a
+ poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and
+ astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art
+ and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up
+ to the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de
+ Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the
+ church of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the
+ host. A little higher up are the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1640; the
+ Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and
+ spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower,
+ bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de
+ Ville is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble
+ statue of Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also
+ the public library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer
+ book of King René, with illustrations said to have been done by
+ himself. No. 569 is a small 4to volume, with copies of letters written
+ by Queen Mary Stuart. The first 57 pages relate to her early history.
+ At page 645 commences a defence of her conduct, written by a warm
+ partisan of the queen. The street, ascending through the gateway of
+ the clock tower, leads to the university buildings, the palace of the
+ archbishop, and the Cathedral of +Saint Sauveur+, built in the 11th
+ cent., partly on the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195
+ ft. high, was built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The
+ façade was commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great
+ entrance door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain
+ outer door. In the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an
+ octagonal chapel with six antique marble and two granite Corinthian
+ columns about 30 ft. high, each shaft being of one stone. The
+ ornamental sculpture on the panels and in the spandrels is by Puget.
+ On the same side are two triptychs, one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by
+ Saints,” and the other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school,
+ representing in the centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in
+ a clump of trees. On one wing is King René on his knees, attended by
+ the Magdalene, St. Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is
+ the king’s second wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron
+ saints. On the outside of the shutters are the angel Gabriel and
+ Mary.
+
+ On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the
+ left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511,
+ representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have
+ belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church
+ possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000
+ virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. Sebastian
+ presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our
+ Lord.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+ The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to
+ the church of St. Jean and the +Picture Gallery+ adjoining; free on
+ Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th
+ cent. by the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the
+ Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the
+ left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de
+ Provence.
+
+ On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi,
+ inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large
+ collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have
+ either labels or numbers.
+
+ The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits
+ about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,”
+ are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around
+ Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged
+ is--the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked,
+ by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as
+ in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed
+ to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees
+ are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.
+
+[Headnote: RIANS. MEYRARGUES.]
+
+ (For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123.) Coach daily from the
+ “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. E. The
+ castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the
+ cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the culminating
+ point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains.
+ +Rians+, pop. 2900, _Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive
+ trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the
+ railway 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing
+ Jouques, 7½ m. N., with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the
+ gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the
+ Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous
+ mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles+ (pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Hôtel du
+ Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu,
+ 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a
+ painting on wood attributed to King René.
+
+ +Meyrargues+ (pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle
+ in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers
+ from Rians.
+
+[Headnote: DILIGENCES. BRANCH LINES.]
+
+ Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by La
+ Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. W. Coach from
+ Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from
+ Pelissanne is Lambesc.
+
+ Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the
+ best way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where
+ a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc,
+ 3½ m. farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de
+ la Vie, visited by pilgrims. +Lambesc+, 14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is
+ a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill
+ Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal
+ industries.
+
+ 7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is +Gardanne+, pop.
+ 3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to
+ Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See
+ under Carnoules, p. 142.)
+
+From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at
+Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. 3¼ m. S.
+from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers,
+junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E.
+
+Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7 miles north
+from Marseilles, is the station of +L’Estaque+, a village on the sea,
+full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valley
+of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect,
+and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2d
+December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV., to the glory
+of which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of three
+brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor stonemason, who died while
+Pierre was still a boy.
+
++Marseilles+ (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principal
+hotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrival
+side of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side of
+the railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the
+prices are rather more than moderate.
+
+
++LYONS TO NÎMES.+
+
+172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins,
+Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,
+Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.
+
+ Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66.
+
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NÎMES
+
+{ }{172}
+NÎMES
+
++LYONS+: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
+Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
+with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle converted
+into a school. 4 m. farther is +Givors-canal+, where the Nîmes line
+separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of Givors,
+commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by the coal
+barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The train
+now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, famous for
+chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to +Ampuis+ (opposite
+Vaugris), pop. 2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and
+chestnuts, and possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which
+46 acres belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of
+France, remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It
+is a little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by
+rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
+wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, pop.
+1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ H. Commerce;
+Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by coach is Pelussin,
+pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of Virieux castle.
+7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway viaduct of 66 arches.
+
+
+{39¼}{132¾}
++PEYRAUD+, pop. 400. Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to
+Grenoble, 60 m. E. by Rives and Voreppe. +Annonay+, pop. 16,500, built
+in the hollow and on the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the
+confluence of the Déôme and the Cance. _Inn:_ H. Midi, in the principal
+square, occupying the centre of the low town.
+ The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance.
+ The Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the
+ brothers Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon
+ ascent, 3d June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the
+ founders of one of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper
+ was long esteemed the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by
+ coach, traversing a beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From
+ Annonay the road ascends 9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_
+ France. Bourg, as the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and
+ manufacturing town, on the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
+ covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes
+ the castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating
+ point on a vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country
+ around is covered with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the
+ road are to guide travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now
+ crosses the plateau called La République, bounded by the Bois de
+ Merlon, and then descends to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St.
+ Etienne, and La Rivière 2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is
+ Tournon.
+
+[Headnote: TOURNON.]
+
+56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with which
+it is connected by two suspension bridges, is +Tournon+, pop. 6100, on
+the Rhône. Hôtel de l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the
+landing-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily
+reach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel
+is the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice.
+Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on
+lofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal
+industries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending all the way
+(see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; to St. Agrève, 9¼
+hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. 3 m. N. from Tournon
+is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.)
+
+
+{65½}{106½}
++SAINT PERAY+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also
+omnibus for Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the
+station, situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The
+vineyards here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which
+is natural, not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is
+the case with the other champagnes.
+
+69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by the
+Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, La
+Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2½ m.
+farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000,
+2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: LA VOULTE.]
+
+{77}{95}
++LA VOULTE+, pop. 5000. _Inn:_ H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway
+and steamboat stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank
+and on the steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit
+are the Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by
+Bernard Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in
+1582, who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen,
+and the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
+iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
+ The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
+ decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ H.
+ Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The water contains
+ iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily from La Voulte
+ to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., and to St.
+ Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places separates at
+ St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and 15 m. S.E. from Le
+ Cheilard. (See map, p. 46.) St. Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste;
+ Voyageur. Is prettily situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le
+ Cheilard, between high rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a
+ series of laboriously walled terraces, on which are small fields of
+ wheat intermingled with walnut, chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry
+ trees, and in the more favoured spots vines and peach and mulberry
+ trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is itself terraced the greater
+ part of the way. A few miles up the river, opposite the village
+ Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a very good specimen of an old
+ donkey-backed bridge, +Le Cheilard+, 2130 ft. above the sea, pop.
+ 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great diligence centre of Ardèche,
+ is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow streets, beautifully situated on
+ the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty terraced mountains. Coaches
+ daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. Every other day to Annonay
+ by the same road as the Tournon coach as far as a little beyond
+ Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges northward. Coach
+ daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200,
+ at the confluence of the Eysse and the Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m.
+ E. from Le Puy, near the river Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. SAUVEUR. LE CHEILARD. MARCOLS.]
+
+ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.
+
+ +Saint Sauveur to Le Beage+ by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and
+ Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.
+ Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the
+ road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. +St. Pierreville+, 1788 ft.
+ above the sea, pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple
+ Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville
+ passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road
+ follows the course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m.
+ before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of +Olbon+, on
+ both sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and
+ a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a
+ spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.
+
+ 6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is +Marcols+, 3380 ft. above the sea,
+ a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the
+ Gluyère. _Inn:_ H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the
+ stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired.
+ As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan
+ for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance,
+ is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next
+ morning in a vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs.
+ per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs.
+ Le Beage is 28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols
+ 6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.
+
+ The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of
+ steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed
+ situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive
+ stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former
+ one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac.
+ A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le
+ Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage.
+ Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from
+ Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic
+ prisms.
+
+[Headnote: LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL. SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.]
+
+ 4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft.
+ above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where
+ generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes
+ may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1
+ hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which
+ plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way.
+
+
+THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.
+
+ 2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the
+ road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison
+ Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison
+ Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,
+ which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly
+ seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy
+ walking from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion.
+ The +Gerbier-de-Joncs+ (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed
+ cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft.
+ above the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and
+ extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of
+ trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire,
+ running first into a little circular basin for the use of the
+ adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet
+ from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to
+ turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the
+ Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of
+ Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return
+ for the night to Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.
+
+ +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage+, 12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The
+ road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte,
+ continues to ascend till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains
+ its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the
+ Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road
+ crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the
+ village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.
+
+ [Map: Mont Mezenc and the Source of the Loire]
+
+[Headnote: LE BEAGE. MEZENC.]
+
+ +Le Beage+, pop. 850. _Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs.
+ A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea,
+ beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which
+ rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop
+ cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are
+ held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to
+ October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females
+ is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed
+ to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured
+ glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay
+ them at the rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the
+ breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker
+ can earn 1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater
+ is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.
+
+ From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of +Mezenc+ (pronounce Mezing) is
+ visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above
+ the sea, 7½ m. N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that
+ distance by the direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the
+ night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft.
+ above the sea, or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the
+ hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour.
+
+
+LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.
+
+ Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On
+ the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the
+ sea, and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le
+ Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LE MONASTIER.]
+
+ +LE MONASTIER+, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse.
+ _Inns:_ Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m.
+ S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the
+ sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,
+ connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church,
+ St. Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in
+ 680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and
+ repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice
+ exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal
+ consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short
+ columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the
+ large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof
+ runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and
+ animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels
+ on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the
+ chapel of Saint Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the
+ “protecteur du Monastier”--“le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort
+ pour son troupeau”--the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See
+ his litany.)
+
+ 11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful
+ mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence
+ and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large
+ “Place” and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the
+ village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. more, on an
+ eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress
+ of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the
+ town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from Brives.
+
+ 36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and 33 m. S.E.
+ from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and
+ Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is
+
+
+[Headnote: LE PUY. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+
++Le Puy+,
+
+ pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers
+ Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town.
+ _Hotels:_ Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan
+ is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de
+ Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,
+ Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone
+ pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables
+ to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in
+ front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico
+ to the portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th
+ cent., and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone
+ at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood
+ on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux
+ fièvres,” from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who
+ lay upon it.
+
+ From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the
+ cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of
+ the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side
+ entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an
+ extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side
+ of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent.,
+ on the other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At
+ the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent.,
+ preceded by an arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of
+ an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the
+ short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south
+ side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the
+ most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of
+ alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846
+ it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square
+ compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on
+ four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower.
+ Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working
+ image,[1] brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of
+ Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of
+ 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this
+ compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time
+ by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a
+ numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in
+ procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged
+ in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le
+ Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the
+ sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is
+ the baptistery of +St. Jean+, built in the 4th cent, on the
+ foundations of a Roman edifice.
+
+ [Footnote 1: The original image was of cedar, with the face, both
+ of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high,
+ and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian
+ like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen.]
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DE FRANCE.]
+
+ From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, a mass
+ of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the
+ top is the image of +Notre Dame de France+, 433 ft. above the Hôtel de
+ Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th
+ September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52½
+ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5
+ ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,
+ J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90
+ steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps
+ extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this
+ colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her
+ right side is seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a
+ hill 2645 ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle.
+ Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours
+ Mons.
+
+ On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up
+ to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d.
+ 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the
+ sculptor of both of them.
+
+[Headnote: AIGUILHE.]
+
+ Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called
+ the +Aiguilhe+, 265 ft. high, 518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45
+ at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is
+ the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and
+ consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the
+ end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and
+ repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the
+ cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb.
+
+ Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an
+ octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the
+ post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower
+ which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little
+ distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left
+ of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous
+ Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the
+ fortress of Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.
+
+[Headnote: MUSÉE.]
+
+ In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil
+ is the +Musée+, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything
+ is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left
+ are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The
+ best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now
+ occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is
+ a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities,
+ mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. OURS MONS.]
+
+ Upstairs is the +Picture Gallery+. In the centre room are portraits of
+ the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of
+ the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu.
+ Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris
+ 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native
+ town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to
+ the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664;
+ Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d.
+ 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695;
+ Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining
+ small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the
+ Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation,
+ Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F.
+ Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of Charles I. of
+ England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert,
+ Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next
+ room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the
+ females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of
+ Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great
+ emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre
+ case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains,
+ Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace
+ trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to
+ Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.
+
+ 1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is +Ours Mons+, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180
+ ft. above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr.
+ Scrope most remarkable; “exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of
+ volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous
+ products of various natures, belonging to different epochs.”
+
+
+LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. (Map, p. 46.)
+
+ +Le Puy+, 2045 ft., +to Langogne+, 2940 ft. above the sea, 26 m. S. by
+ coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold,
+ treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is about a mile
+ south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from Pradelles. 8 m.
+ from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a
+ road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. above the sea, pop. 1450.
+ _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about
+ 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct crater of +Le Bouchet+, 231 ft.
+ higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. deep. It is
+ very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After
+ Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the
+ horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and
+ afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft., pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m.
+ from Le Puy and 5 m. from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne
+ railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits
+ passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St.
+ Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46).
+
+ +Pradelles to Mayres+, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a
+ good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p. 95), La
+ Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near
+ the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing
+ above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into
+ Ardèche.
+
+ From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.
+ Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and
+ 12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.
+
+
+[Headnote: ESPALY. BORNE. DARSAC.]
+
+LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. (Map, p. 46.)
+
+ For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to +Langeac+ by
+ St. Georges d’Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line,
+ 3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This
+ railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct
+ volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.
+
+ +Le Puy to Langeac+, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line
+ traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1 m.
+ from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of
+ basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the
+ Riou-Pézeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been
+ found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt
+ called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three
+ tiers, called les orgues d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at
+ the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of
+ a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.
+
+ 8¾ m. from Puy is +Borne+, 2535 ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble
+ in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le
+ Puy. 5½ m. E. from this station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac,
+ passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th
+ cent., is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the
+ imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132
+ steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th
+ cent., commanding an extensive view.
+
+ 13 m. W. from Le Puy is +Darsac+, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small
+ hamlet, with a restaurant, the +station for Chaise-Dieu+, 13¾ m. N.,
+ fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond
+ Chaise-Dieu.
+
+[Headnote: LA CHAISE-DIEU.]
+
+ The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little
+ village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the sea,
+ with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and
+ Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the
+ Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m.
+ the high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at +La
+ Chaise-Dieu+, 3576 ft. above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or;
+ Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church
+ participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and
+ canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons
+ of N. D. du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and
+ most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and
+ his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery
+ at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly
+ proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or
+ Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of
+ Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his
+ elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on
+ the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was
+ continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom
+ are the façade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high,
+ and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and
+ 110 high, attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot
+ de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with
+ a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent,
+ are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings
+ are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two
+ sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and
+ traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.
+
+ The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall
+ plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which
+ spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide,
+ and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same
+ height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one
+ between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where
+ a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery
+ has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft.
+ long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144
+ carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of
+ Arras tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the
+ centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with
+ the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an
+ altar table of black marble.
+
+ On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is
+ the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with
+ artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund
+ gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and
+ demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and
+ warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst
+ of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the
+ sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the
+ unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last
+ abbot of La Chaise-Dieu.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARLANC.]
+
+La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.
+
+ 10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and
+ 11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is +Arlanc+, pop.
+ 4500, _Inn:_ H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,
+ consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed
+ mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here.
+
+[Headnote: AMBERT. FIX-ST. GENEYS.]
+
+ 11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by
+ rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating
+ point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the
+ sea. 15 m. from Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop.
+ 2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some
+ 13th cent. houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the
+ family of the Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from
+ Thiers, is Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and
+ the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or
+ 36¾ m. N. from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see
+ p. 358; Thiers, p. 367.
+
+ The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p. 46) is +Fix-St.
+ Geneys+, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_
+ H. des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the
+ Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2½ m. farther is the station
+ for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m.
+ farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. above the sea.
+
+[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC. MONISTROL.]
+
+ The most westerly station on the line is +St. Georges d’Aurac+, 1872
+ ft. above the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.
+ 58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes (see
+ map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop.
+ 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. E. is the château Chavagnac, the
+ birthplace of General Lafayette. 5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800,
+ most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the
+ Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the
+ 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going
+ north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m.
+ S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy,
+ is +Langeac+, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and 127 m. N. from
+ Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town
+ near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates
+ from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the town, in the valley of Morange,
+ is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.)
+
+ 15 m. S. from Langeac is +Monistrol+-d’Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea,
+ pop. 1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side
+ of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to +Le Puy+, 17 m. N.E. by
+ St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in
+ a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of
+ Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.
+ 10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old
+ church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes,
+ 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and Mont
+ Bonzon. Coach from +Monistrol to Saugues+, 6½ m. W., 3116 ft., pop.
+ 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the
+ Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the
+ “English general.” It consists of a square vaulted roof of small
+ stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high and 6⅜ ft. apart.
+ It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel
+ at Valence (see p. 44).
+
+[Headnote: LE POUZIN. PRIVAS.]
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NÎMES
+
+ {81}{91}
+ +LE POUZIN+, pop. 3000, _Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here
+ enters the Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old
+ castle. Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. +Privas+, pop. 8000.
+ _Inns:_ Croix d’Or; Louvre. On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at
+ the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 ft. higher, and at the confluence of the
+ Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a
+ distance, consists chiefly of narrow, crooked, steep streets, and
+ dingy houses. From the promenade called the Esplanade, planted with
+ plane trees, is an excellent view of the picturesque valley of the
+ Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the Coiron, especially of Mount
+ Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the plain of the Lai, is a house called
+ the Logis du Roi, in which Louis XIII. established his headquarters in
+ 1629, when, with Cardinal Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant
+ inhabitants in the town, commanded by the brave Montbrun.
+
+ From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. _Inn:_
+ H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières the coaches to
+ La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and
+ to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of
+ the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas,
+ 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map p. 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: ROCHEMAURE.]
+
+{98}{74}
++ROCHEMAURE+, pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the
+Rhône. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, but
+the old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of
+the castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and most
+frequented commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre
+of the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with
+the arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the
+battlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the
+seigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on
+a needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the
+Keep, like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up
+will be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley
+of the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains.
+These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a
+massive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th
+cent. by the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present
+condition by order of Louis XIII.
+
+A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than
+an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of
+the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic
+columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.
+
+
+[Headnote: LE TEIL.]
+
+{95¾}{76¼}
++LE TEIL+, pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers
+for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the Rhône (p. 48).
+Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line between Nîmes and
+Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, 17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil,
+and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to
+Nieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance
+into Ardèche (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56).
+
+
+[Headnote: AUBENAS. VALS.]
+
++Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.+
+
+ 5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba
+ Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from
+ Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, _Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with
+ vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche,
+ and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the
+ highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now
+ containing the college, the hospital, and some other public
+ institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk,
+ butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas,
+ excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.)
+
+ 3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus
+ awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its
+ +Mineral Waters+. _Hotels:_ Des Bains, on an eminence above the
+ bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are
+ the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important
+ springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe;
+ Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to
+ 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to
+ October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among
+ hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut
+ trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the
+ eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain,
+ and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a
+ grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little
+ beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse,
+ and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up
+ the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so
+ pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the
+ Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to
+ the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove
+ paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may
+ be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and
+ magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the
+ arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid
+ gas.
+
+[Headnote: ANTRAIGUES.]
+
+ 5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is
+ +Antraigues+, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks,
+ at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents--the Bise, Mas,
+ and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent
+ view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the +Coupe d’Aizac+,
+ covered with a beautiful reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise.
+
+
+[Headnote: NEYRAC-LES-BAINS. THUEYTS. MAYRES.]
+
+AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. (Maps, pp. 56 and 46.)
+
+ Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through
+ Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is
+ +Neyrac-les-Bains+, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des
+ Bains; H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, and 9½
+ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger,
+ containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81°
+ Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,
+ the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in
+ 2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m.
+ W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the
+ Médéric, is +Thueyts+, pop. 2600, _Inn:_ H. Burine, situated on a bed
+ of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea.
+ Through this bed the Ardèche has, in cutting a passage for itself,
+ laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft.
+ high, extending nearly 2 m. down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg
+ are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Médéric, called the
+ Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which,
+ unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part
+ commences the Pavé-des-Géants, a tableland composed of granite and
+ basalt of an average height of 214 ft. from the base, lined with
+ vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock,
+ is the +Echelle du Roi+, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms,
+ within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the
+ tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne.
+ The ascent requires about 1 hour.
+
+ The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near
+ the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham,
+ 4358 ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.
+
+ 5½ m. from Thueyts is +Mayres+, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce.
+ 1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.
+ above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge
+ between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres.
+ For Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From
+ Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet
+ of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the
+ sea.
+
+ 7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170
+ ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is La
+ Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and 14 from
+ Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea,
+ where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the
+ travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is
+ Coucouron, pop. 1400.
+
+ The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the
+ snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.
+
+ 35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m.
+ from Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages
+ 26, 56 and 46).
+
+
+[Headnote: PRADES.]
+
++Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, St. Eulalie,
+and Source of the Loire.+
+
+ For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p. 46.
+
+ 11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the
+ terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it
+ coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600,
+ is situated on an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In
+ the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting
+ terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the
+ Ardèche, and to the east of Jaujac, is +Prades+, pop. 1200, on the
+ Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.
+
+ Near the railway terminus is the village of +Pont-de-la-Baume+, pop.
+ 900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, at the
+ confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the Ardèche. One
+ of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the
+ neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded
+ here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,
+ Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.
+
+[Headnote: JAUJAC. MONTPEZAT.]
+
+ 3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is +Jaujac+, the
+ Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence
+ above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from
+ Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms.
+ From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by
+ the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the
+ columns, which, however, are not vertical. About ½ m. from the town is
+ the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the
+ coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and
+ gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the
+ crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous
+ chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals.
+
+ 14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by
+ diligence, is +Montpezat+. The road from Aubenas ascends by the
+ Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which
+ are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on,
+ within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of
+ Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. high,
+ over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulière or
+ Fontollière. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt.
+ Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region.
+ The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the
+ top. The bridge is about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.
+
+ +Montpezat+-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above the
+ sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is the
+ terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in
+ the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the
+ new road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of
+ the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but
+ the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the
+ village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.
+
+
+MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.
+
+ To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,
+ 16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12 m.,
+ 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the
+ road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite the extinct
+ volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake
+ Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above the sea.
+ After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort,
+ crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades,
+ 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le
+ Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see p. 84).
+
+[Headnote: SAINTE EULALIE.]
+
+ From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by
+ Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. +Sainte Eulalie+, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure,
+ in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from
+ the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in
+ the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the
+ source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the
+ one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the
+ path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp. 46 and
+ 85).
+
+
+[Headnote: RUOMS. LARGENTIÈRE.]
+
++Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.+
+
+ See map, page 56.
+
+ 25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of Alais,
+ is +Ruoms+. Station for Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m.
+ W., and for Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe;
+ France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix,
+ pop. 5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and
+ glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with
+ important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated
+ in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous
+ mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the
+ Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.
+ Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb,
+ Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and
+ the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the
+ chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the
+ arms of the family of Joyeuse.
+
+ The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a
+ considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT D’ARC.]
+
+VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC. (Map, p. 56.)
+
+ One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_
+ *H. du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont
+ d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as
+ far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves.
+ A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs.; to St. Martin it costs
+ 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. from the railway station of
+ St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98).
+ The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,
+ 2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing down the
+ Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche,
+ composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through
+ which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.
+ high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.
+ There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is
+ unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding
+ scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry
+ trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. high,
+ which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great
+ stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them
+ is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,
+ honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are
+ better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by
+ other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly
+ appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54.)
+
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NÎMES
+
+{102½}{69½}
++VIVIERS+, pop. 3300. _Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are
+along the road parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is
+on the hill behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here,
+along the W. side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the
+quarrying and preparing of which forms the principal industry of the
+place. Coach to Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing
+St. Thomé, pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay,
+which flows through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the
+opposite or east side of the Rhône.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOURG-ST. ANDEOL.]
+
+{109½}{62½}
++BOURG-ST. ANDEOL+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their
+omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on
+the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le Bourg has handsome quays
+alongside the Rhône, a church founded in the 11th cent., and some houses
+of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards from the town, at the foot
+of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de Tournes, which, after turning
+various mills, flows into the Rhône. About 20 ft. above it is a much
+effaced sculpture in relief, representing the sacrifice of a bull to the
+god Mithras.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. JUST.]
+
+{115}{57}
++ST. JUST+ and St. Marcel station, from which both towns are less than a
+mile, but in different directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is
+St. Martin, pop. 600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche.
+A ferry-boat crosses the river. On the other side, a little farther up,
+is Aiguèze, pop. 450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien,
+but not seen from St. Martin.
+
+Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. up
+the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price depends
+upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of a
+tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into spacious lofty
+caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, and
+fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none but
+ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour.
+The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-Saint
+Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT-ST. ESPRIT.]
+
+{119}{53}
++PONT-ST. ESPRIT+, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière, on
+the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière page
+50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons and Avignon. Pont-Saint
+Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the western Rhône railway,
+makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, with pleasant
+promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge are the church
+of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in the 15th cent.
+Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. Within, down a
+steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel constructed in
+1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
+beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
+pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
+Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.
+Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. At
+Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
+inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, page 56).
+
+Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m.
+N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)
+
+7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. H. du
+Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach to Uzès,
+17 m. W.
+
+
+{132½}{39½}
++LAUDUN+, pop. 2200, about 2½ m. west from the station, and 10 m. from
+Orange, is built on a hill 350 ft. high. The vineyards in the
+neighbourhood produce a good white wine. Junction with branch to Alais,
+35½ m. west, by Connaux, St. Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and
+Mejannes; small and uninteresting towns (see map, p. 26).
+
+
+[Headnote: ROQUEMAURE.]
+
+{137½}{34½}
++ROQUEMAURE+, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at
+station. Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the
+island of Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is
+in the neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public
+promenade with large trees, the great embankment to protect the town
+from the invasions of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of
+which the most remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point
+of a great rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the
+village. Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the
+Rhône, has a dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of
+Avignon, died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good
+wine is made.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT-D’AVIGNON.]
+
+{144¾}{27¼}
++PONT-D’AVIGNON+, station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon
+(p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. The omnibus between
+Avignon and Villeneuve passes the station every hour. Tram every ¼
+between the station and Avignon.
+
+7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, at a
+considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is Thezièrs, pop.
+650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the ruins of a
+castle. (Map, page 66.)
+
+
+{159¾}{12¼}
++REMOULINS+, pop. 1400, with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to
+Uzès, 12½ m. N.W. On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès,
+is Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.
+(For description and directions see pp. 64 and 104, and map page 66.)
+
+[Headnote: UZÈS.]
+
++UZÈS+, pop. 5600, _Inn_ Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by
+picturesque calcareous rocks. From the inn walk past the church St.
+Etienne, then turn to the left, and having gone down the avenue ascend
+the double stair leading up to the beautiful terrace, on which, to the
+left, stands the Cathedral, and to the right, projecting from the
+balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which
+Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in the
+deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the Roman
+aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a square
+basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of which five
+are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by twin open
+arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled roof,
+partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of the
+church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat of
+the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the
+most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with
+turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge,
+surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The
+octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the
+École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St.
+Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret
+of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir
+(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the
+Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and
+Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le
+Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs
+d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour de
+la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, 11th
+cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and in
+front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of the
+“Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is a
+large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross of
+copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,
+vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best
+wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides
+the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, 17 m.
+E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. N. from the Pont
+d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.
+
+[Headnote: SERNHAC-LÉDENON.]
+
+After Remoulins the train halts at the station +Sernhac-Lédenon+.
++Lédenon+, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and +Sernhac+,
+pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from Nîmes is the St.
+Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer, Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with
+a handsome modern church, and in the cemetery the ruins of the chapel of
+St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from railway.
+
+
+ [Map: Nimes]
+
+[Headnote: NÎMES. AMPHITHEATRE.]
+
+172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E. from
+Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m. N.W. from
+Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by Clermont-Ferrand, is
+
+NÎMES,
+
+population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. A flight of
+steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the station. At the foot
+of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty comfortable room 2 frs.,
+dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams start from in front of the house. In
+the town are: On the Esplanade, the H. Luxembourg, the most expensive.
+By the side of it, fronting a garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9
+to 12 frs. Fronting the amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to
+10 frs. Opposite the Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the
+most conveniently situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses
+await passengers at the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B.
+du Grand Cours, between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph
+Office in the Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des
+Calquières. Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new
+church of St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end
+of the B. des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.
+
+_Sights._--The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the Roman Baths.
+_Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the Amphitheatre, and at the
+Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per hour.
+
+A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the
+Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble
+colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the
+Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the
+pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with
+its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and
+the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.
+
+The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman +Amphitheatre+, the most perfect
+extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437
+ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building
+are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches
+being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an
+attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained
+the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the
+upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being
+roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching from side to side. There
+were four entrances, one facing each of the cardinal points of the
+compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats in 4 zones, capable of
+accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. The lowest zone
+corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the galleries. The
+present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., opposite No. 8
+Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is under the fifth
+arch west. No description can express the sensation experienced from
+contemplating this vast Roman structure from the highest tier or from
+the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it must be remembered
+that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent step might have
+serious consequences. The date of the building is uncertain. Titus,
+Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured to have been the
+founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, the Castrum
+Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8th cent.,
+till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died in 715.
+
+On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, with,
+on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including the
+Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum,
+containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the
+neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other
+pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of John the
+Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a Girl and a
+Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of his mother,
+by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in his coffin, by
+Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress experimenting on
+a slave with the poison they were preparing for Britannicus,” by Javier
+Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by Gérard Dow, Claude
+Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van den Welde, and
+Wouvermans.
+
+At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with frescoes
+on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin.
+
+[Headnote: LA MAISON CARRÉE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them +La Maison
+Carrée+, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably part of the
+Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending east and
+west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed to have
+been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a platform, and
+is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 Roman-Corinthian
+columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll frieze, sculptured
+dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are attached, excepting
+the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the railing are
+mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.
+
+Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor,
+built in the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The
+most venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of
+stone. A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis,
+extends under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by
+brackets with acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand,
+in the interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior
+frieze.
+
+[Headnote: ROMAN BATHS. TOURMAGNE. FORT.]
+
+N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases and
+statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane
+trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the
+temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built B.C. 24, of huge
+carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, and reduced to its present state in
+1577. The little of the ornamental work that remains is very much
+mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected from the troublesome winds of
+Nîmes, are the +Roman Baths+, about 12 ft. below the level of the
+gardens, the vaulting being supported on small columns, over which rise
+open stone balustrades. Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies
+them, as placid but somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse
+(p. 65).
+
+From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier to
+an octagonal structure called the +Tourmagne+, 90 ft. high, erected
+before the Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was
+originally filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in
+search of treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in
+1843. The view from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.
+
+Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the
+town prison. On the western side of the fort are the remains of the
+reservoir, _castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by
+the canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings
+water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the fort.
+
+In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. high,
+pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte
+d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of
+the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the
+Rue Carrètérie. (See plan.)
+
+The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia
+Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the
+reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of
+Strabo the “+Jus Latii+,” and therefore was independent of the Roman
+governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was exported
+to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal emporium in
+the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in Paris,
+particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de Remède.
+Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who introduced
+tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis Philippe, were
+born at Nîmes.
+
+[Headnote: PONT-DU-GARD.]
+
+13½ miles from Nîmes is the +Pont-du-Gard+, built by the Romans in the
+reign of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the
+neighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the waters of the Eure and
+Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which only vestiges now
+remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks of the river
+Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total height above the
+bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are formed of hewn
+stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; but the mason
+work underneath the channel of the third or top story is of rough stones
+cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The first or lowest row
+consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, except the largest,
+which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven arches of the same
+dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches of 15 ft. span.
+A stair from the right bank of the river leads up to the watercourse
+above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking boldness of its design
+this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and superiority over all the
+other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, and the piers in proportion
+lighter, and had the same principle been extended so as to have formed
+it of one single row from top to bottom, it would have equalled in the
+skill and disposition of its materials the more judicious and more
+elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p. 77). Take ticket
+to Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,
+take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another
+ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins
+station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p. 64).
+
+79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is +Marseilles+ (p. 111), passing
+Tarascon, 17 m. (p. 66), and Arles, 25 m. (p. 68).
+
+
+[Headnote: VIGAN.]
+
+NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.
+
+ See Map, p. 26.
+
+ 58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs.,
+ to Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of
+ importance on this line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan,
+ are very picturesque. 27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac,
+ pop. 1800, junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E.
+ to Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is
+ St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this
+ the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan, on
+ the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche,
+ omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. farther
+ is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron mines.
+ 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line crosses
+ the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre follows
+ the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Voyageurs;
+ Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the Chevalier
+ d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à Clastercamp
+ à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is 860 ft.
+ above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with terraces of
+ vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to nearly their
+ summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved streets.
+ The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the post
+ office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the
+ neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,
+ on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the
+ Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it
+ are the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.
+
+[Headnote: VALLERAUGUE.]
+
+ Coach daily to +Valleraugue+, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m. N., in a very
+ picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded valley between
+ the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron mountains
+ towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a little higher,
+ towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent is made in
+ about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the culminating
+ point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The source of the
+ Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of the Tarn to
+ the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent fishing,
+ botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.
+
+[Headnote: LARZAC.]
+
+ +Le Vigan to Millau+, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village
+ the coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with
+ coal-mines. From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½
+ m., and Arre, 6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves
+ by a tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with
+ the village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the
+ Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of 7 m.
+ the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ H. du Nord,
+ producing excellent pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this
+ ascends the southern side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with
+ vineyards, olive and mulberry trees, and farther up forests of
+ chestnut trees. From the other side of the ridge it descends to the
+ valley of the Dourbie, in which is St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000,
+ _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having
+ traversed the valley of the Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches
+ Nant, pop. 2000, a poor village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau.
+ Shortly afterwards the diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of
+ +Larzac+, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the village of La
+ Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is Millau, on the line to
+ Paris by Rodez.
+
+ [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the Passes from France into Italy]
+
+
+
+
+[Headnote: TEMPERATURE. VEGETATION.]
+
+THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.
+
+ [Illustration: thermometer]
+
+The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of
+the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots.
+It is usually divided into two portions--the Riviera from Hyères to
+Genoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles
+long. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former--the
+Western Riviera--which has been subjected to most careful and minute
+meteorological observations, and the various stations classified
+according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203
+miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in
+all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from
+each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some
+peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity
+being more often accidental and social--such as the people met with, the
+lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which
+exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of the
+mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. None
+of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficiently
+high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher
+mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep
+indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams,
+descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and
+all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them--the more
+sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is
+the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous
++Mistral+, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels like
+a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean winter
+temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, considered the
+coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of San Remo,
+considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are December and
+January. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively.
+Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule,
+cloudy and wet weather the exception. “In December wild flowers are rare
+till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone,
+and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have
+become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses,
+primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are
+springing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones.
+In March the hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the
+Mediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums,
+convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli.” --_H. S. Roberton_. There is a
+much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm
+flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the
+midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the
+orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), the
+camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree (_Ceratona
+siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and different species of the
+Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. In marshy places the
+common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great height; while the _Sedum
+dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dry
+rocky banks with verdure. The most important tree commercially is the
+olive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tracts
+in the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree
+(_Quercus suber_), the Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the
+chestnut tree. The Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in
+the orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the
+exception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees
+ripen their fruit too late for the winter resident.
+
+On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, Grasse,
+and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. or 9s.
+per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantial
+meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. In
+some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. If
+two are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, an
+excellent plan is to take a furnished room, which, with a south exposure
+and good furniture, ought to cost about £2 per month. They can easily
+prepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them.
+If the party be numerous, apartments should be taken, which vary from £2
+to £30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnished
+apartments are let at prices varying from £18 to £100. As a general rule
+it is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to select
+either the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequate
+idea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house.
+A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, a cook about one-half more,
+but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal to
+nearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by the
+kilogramme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs.
+3¼ oz.
+
+[Headnote: COST OF LIVING. FISH. VEGETABLES.]
+
+Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton
+cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when at
+their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the litre. The
+best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese there are a
+great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort and
+the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 3s.
+6d. the kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the
+coast are: the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or
+Bass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard
+(Grondin), the John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the
+Conger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior
+to those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good
+vegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks,
+celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and
+artichokes. The cardon (_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon
+porrifolius_) are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon
+tastes like celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes
+are of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the
+stations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers,
+bakers, and grocers.
+
+[Headnote: ADVANTAGES.]
+
+Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the
+Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this
+region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine
+which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun often
+rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness and
+warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without a
+cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying in
+his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints which
+characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light,
+a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a softness of
+outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy description. In the
+early stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young and
+active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden exposure, this cheering
+influence is most beneficial. It is of great importance that, while
+taking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an early
+age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-day
+increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under the
+influence of medicine and climate a large number of these patients
+gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with due
+care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglect
+to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience and advice
+with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and may often
+prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in unhealthy
+localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, that
+patients should bring with them a letter from their physician describing
+their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.
+
+The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then there
+is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny walks
+there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and
+Bordighera.
+
+[Headnote: SEA-BATHING. DOCTORS’ FEES.]
+
+_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be continued with advantage by many
+during the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall of
+the tide are so trifling, the beach is always in a fit state for the
+bather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised than
+that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt.
+
+_Doctors’ Fees._--French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10
+frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20
+frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients.
+An extra charge is made for night work.
+
+Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, tea,
+arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a
+little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary
+wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and
+should always be watered.
+
+
+[Headnote: MARSEILLES.]
+
+MARSEILLES.
+
++MARSEILLES+, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 hrs.
+37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice
+5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons, 120½ m. W.
+from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the departure side of the
+railway station is the +Terminus Hotel+ (dear). The hotel omnibuses
+await passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, to
+which the driver of its omnibus will respond.
+
+A plentiful supply of +Cabs+ is both at the railway and the custom-house
+station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished with an
+official tariff, which, though constantly changing, may be stated to
+be--Between 6 A.M. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the course,
+1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2¼
+frs. From midnight to 6 A.M. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30
+kilo., or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each
+passenger 1 fr.
+
+_Hotels._--In the Rue Cannebière, ascending from the Port, are very fine
++Cafés+, and in the eastern continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the
+best +Hotels+. The Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles;
+and the Hôtel Marseilles; all near each other, and charging from 12 to
+20 frs. per day.
+
+Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R.
+Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between
+the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; on
+the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the
+Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des Colonies.
+
+In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand and
+an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of
+which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms,
+2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de
+l’Europe, a “maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including service,
+cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the neighbouring
+restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is G. Restaurant des
+Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the Restaurant Bouches du
+Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class houses in the Cours
+Belsunce which can be recommended are--the Californie; Deux Mondes;
+Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel du Cours is good also, but
+it is only a “maison meublée.” The continuation of the Cours Belsunce is
+called the Cours St. Louis, where a flower-market is held. Just off this
+Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good, and clean house, the
+hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to 3 frs.; dinner, à la
+carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and cheap house, the Hôtel
+Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for which either a cab or
+the general omnibus must be taken at the station.
+
+[Headnote: STEAMBOATS. CUSTOM-HOUSE.]
+
+_Steamboats._--The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et
+Cie., of Fraissinet et Cie., of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc.,
+arrive and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is
+at the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gates are
+porters and a large cab-stand. The custom-house contains one
+waiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third.
+Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6
+sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receive
+an acknowledgment. A tramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette to
+Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebière by the R. de la
+République. There are no hotels near the steamboat station.
+
+Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the
++Château d’If+, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small steamers
+make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, but
+do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this part of the
+quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges and
+other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on the port, the
+Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. At
+the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean,
+other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carénage, by the side of
+Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the interesting old church of St.
+Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame.
+
+The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. There is
+another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post Office at No.
+53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor, opposite the
+entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour. Anglican
+chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallel
+to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the École des
+Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.
+
+Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.
+
+The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue
+Noailles.
+
+ [Map: Marseilles]
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS. TRAMS.]
+
++Sights.+--Palais Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the Picture
+Gallery and the +Natural History Museum+; free. Closed on Mondays and
+every day between 12 and 2 (see p. 114). Near the Palais is the
+Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 116). The
+shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the
+Corniche road.
+
+Of all the +Trams+ the most important starts from the left of the statue
+in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des Fleurs and the Prado
+to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond the racecourse. Just behind
+the Bonneveine terminus is the +Château Borély+, containing the Musée
+d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in the
+neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin of
+Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Roman
+mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies; and in the end
+room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff of
+the prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple of
+Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, fayence from
+Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons,
+and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. in diameter.
+
+[Headnote: CORNICHE. BOUILLABAISSE.]
+
+Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de Rome,
+near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche road, considered the
+most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. The gardens and
+pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to the
+irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on the
+Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of the restaurants the
+best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, charging 15 frs. per
+day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5 frs. additional. The
+house is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at the
+entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, has
+handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish dinners and
+Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. This
+establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along the
+Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept a
+supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse,
+a kind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes--plum-pudding,
+puchero, haggis, etc.--admits of considerable latitude in the
+preparation. The essentials are--whole rascasses and chapons (scorpion
+fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a liquor mixed with a little of the
+best olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra good
+Bouillabaisse should include also crayfish, a few mussels, and some
+pieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass.
+
+[Headnote: PALAIS DE LONGCHAMP.]
+
+Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking a
+short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles,
+enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2
+sous. +The Palais de Longchamp+, which cost £165,000, consists of two
+rectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionic
+volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massive
+archway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringing
+the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November
+1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of Louis
+Philippe I. Another records that the palace was commenced in the reign
+of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 15th August
+1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes a
+copious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft.
+in three stages. The wing to the right, standing with the face to the
+palace, contains the Natural History Museum; and the other, the picture
+and sculpture galleries.
+
+All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large
+pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room
+left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best
+pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:--F. Bol, d.
+1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, d. 1671,
+portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated;
+Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; Gongo, d. 1764,
+Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d.
+1554, portrait; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713,
+Cardinal Cibo; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766,
+Mme. de Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino,
+d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; F. Porbus, d.
+1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; Rembrandt, d. 1669,
+A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d.
+1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640,
+Wild-boar Hunt; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588,
+Venetian princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the
+right is the “+École Provençal+,” containing, among other
+paintings--Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milkmaid, and
+portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, d. 1849, “La
+Vierge Consolatrice”; P. Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, among
+others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman feeding Child.
+
+The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the
+conchological division and the collection of ammonites.
+
+From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the palace,
+on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the sea,
+supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See under
+Roquefavour, p. 77.) At this part of the hill is one of the entrances to
+the Zoological Gardens; free on Sundays, when they are crowded with
+people. Near the entrance is the +Observatory+, one of the most
+important in France.
+
+[Headnote: HÔTEL DE VILLE. LA CONSIGNE.]
+
+The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is protected
+on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. Its
+approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant is on
+the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from Marseilles.
+The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres,
+and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned trading-vessels, with
+their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphatically
+the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of the “Port” extends
+eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street La Cannebière, so
+called from the rope-walks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly the
+middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the +Hôtel de Ville+ (1 in plan),
+built in the 17th cent., and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born at
+Marseilles; while at the western extremity of the same side, next Fort
+St. Jean, is a low building called La Consigne, or Health Office. Over
+the chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful
+relief in white marble by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To
+the right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce
+administering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants of
+Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David.
+Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice returning from Constantinople
+with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la République.” Opposite the
+fireplace, “The cholera on board the Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next
+it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had died
+of the plague.” Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two
+windows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne
+is the pier of the ferry-boats. Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town
+infirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. above the quay of
+Joliette, [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ARC DE TRIOMPHE.] the +Cathedral+,
+a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., and 165 ft. from E. to W.
+at the transept; built of gray Florentine stone alternating with a
+whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Arles. The nave is 52 ft.
+wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome is 196 ft. high. Behind
+the cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4),
+and the Hospice de la Charité (7). Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the
++Arc de Triomphe+, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced
+on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc
+d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58
+ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the
+battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar
+statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz.
+Over the arch is the inscription-- “_A la République_.” From the arch a
+steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at the
+N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le souvenir de sa
+charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola Marseille” in
+1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 113)
+and the Alcazar Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant.
+
+[Headnote: BOURSE.]
+
+The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and farther
+S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours are, to
+the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the R. Noailles, the two
+best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port end of the former is the
++Bourse+ (marked 10 in the plan), a parallelogramic building, 154 feet
+broad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60
+feet by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule are
+allegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief
+representing Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of the
+world. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the
+Opera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The
+Palais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment
+and peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force,
+Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded
+by 16 columns of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the
+Renaissance style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues
+and bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier
+d’honneur, communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with
+mural paintings.
+
+From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of +Notre Dame de
+la Garde+, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object in
+Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right by the Cours
+Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de Colline, and
+then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On descending be
+careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar under a canopy
+on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length of the Plateau de la
+Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain to the
+terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The church is
+shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can always
+be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a gilded image
+of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. The
+view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the whole of
+Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft.; to
+the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it Mont
+Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau and
+Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is the
+little island of If (p. 118). Off Cape Croisette are the islands of
+Maïre and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol)
+leads to the Corniche.
+
+
+NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.
+
+Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an
+upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The
+interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters
+and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar
+in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is
+about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and
+made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the
+face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14
+lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of
+silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and
+with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous
+interposition was displayed.
+
+[Headnote: LYCÉE.]
+
+From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets ramify,
+such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the Cours
+Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the +Lycée+ or head grammar-school,
+and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et l’École des
+Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard du
+Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor are the
+class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection of
+medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the medals
+are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. and
+1300 manuscripts.
+
+[Headnote: SAINT VICTOR.]
+
+At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and the
+Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles,
++Saint Victor+, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteries
+in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of the
+church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victor
+resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouth
+square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been added by Pope
+Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door under
+these towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. The
+upper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th cent. Near the
+sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the original
+church, a large and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient part
+is the small chapel shut off from the rest, with several tombs hewn in
+the rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to the
+tradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died at
+Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is marred by a modern
+altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it is said, by Puget. The shaft
+of one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces of
+ornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, and
+remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of a
+miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved by
+Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is called Notre Dame
+de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries from
+the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have been
+removed to the museum in the Château Borély (p. 113). At the foot of the
+eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin
+de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes to
+the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is Saint
+Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.
+
+[Headnote: ISLAND OF IF.]
+
+_Excursions._--The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the +Island
+of If+, with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state
+prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port.
+They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the price
+before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whence
+a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the entrance
+to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. A man conducts
+visitors over the castle, of which the most interesting parts are the
+cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he was thrown over into the
+sea.
+
+Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by rail (see map on p. 66). At
+Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port
+Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the canal to Arles (see p. 76).
+After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is L’Estaque
+(see p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot of a
+wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to the
+station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main line, and the
+Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaits
+passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains
+of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated from
+Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignane
+station arrives at the station for Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the
+hills.
+
+[Headnote: MARTIGUES. INDUSTRIES.]
+
++Les Martigues+, pop. 10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du
+Cours, and omnibus for Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of
+the outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all
+connected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large part
+of the town are on the E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of
+the 3 islets are the Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the
+middle one is the Hôtel de Ville; and on the third and largest are the
+hospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. side
+of the canal is the part of the town called Ferrières, containing the
+harbour and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the
+principal industry of the inhabitants.
+
+There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The infirmary
+(Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750
+patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains generally from
+600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is the
+Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.
+
+The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories,
+with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at
+£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and
+chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000
+tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ
+2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated
+acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at
+£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of ore,
+imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnaces
+of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards,
+together with other private companies, have large workshops for the
+construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch of
+iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is a
+great centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore; 16,000 tons of
+lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually.
+
+[Headnote: COMMERCE. HISTORY.]
+
+_Commerce._--The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from the
+Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but the one of greatest value, raw silk,
+£4,000,000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and
+Japan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice.
+The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cotton
+fabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits; those of greatest bulk are
+cereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes,
+manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal.
+
+_History._--The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was
+founded by the enterprising mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600
+B.C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it was
+repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In
+1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic,
+governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the remainder of the
+Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher town was
+governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette.
+The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of St. Victor, and owned
+the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between the
+two, retained the old harbour, and was the most powerful of the three
+divisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity to
+Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence. Louis XIV. came in
+person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He took
+the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseilles
+repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an epidemic raged from May 1720
+to May 1721 with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find a
+parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalised
+themselves by their courage and devotion.
+
+During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristocracy,
+who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror they
+rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by General
+Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to their
+maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against
+Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a
+considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the
+Suez Canal.
+
+[Headnote: THE MARSEILLAISE.]
+
+_The Marseillaise._--The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise” was
+composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the
+10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6¼ m.
+S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792,
+the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich,
+the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and during
+dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to compose a
+war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to his
+room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. In
+the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “_Tenez, voilá ce
+que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop bon._”
+“_Que dites vous mon ami?_” said Dietrich, after casting his eye over
+the MS.; “_vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre._” The mayor’s wife having
+tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the theatre were engaged to
+perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was the
+enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off with nearly 1000
+instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air “Le Chant de
+guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a detachment of
+volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, and
+as they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march and
+in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des Marseillais.”
+Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June
+1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of the
+monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.
+
+
+
+
+MARSEILLES TO MENTON.
+
+BY HYÈRES, CANNES, NICE, AND MONACO. 155 MILES.
+
+See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185.
+
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{ }{155}
++MARSEILLES.+ See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the
+“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon,
+traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by
+mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream
+Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles
+canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the
+chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all situated
+at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October,
+a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineral
+baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by omnibus from Marseilles. The
+bathing establishment is about ¼ m. from the village, in an undulating
+hollow, among plane trees, olives, and vines. The water is cold, and
+contains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is very
+effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the liver. The establishment is
+quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to 9 frs. per day.
+
+10½ m. from Marseilles is +Aubagne+, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus
+daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at
+Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with coal-mines
+and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail.
+
+After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, if
+a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant fishing
+village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole
+(to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille (to the
+east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension Liautaud. An
+omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. A very pretty path,
+passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on the
+sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6½ m. east by this road, and
+23 m. from Marseilles by rail. The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from
+the town, but an omnibus awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l’Univers, at
+the head of a well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong
+stone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curious
+promontory, the Bec de l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of
+three lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the
+point is the small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing
+is carried on in +La Ciotat+; but the main business of the place is
+derived from the great shipbuilding yards of the Messageries Maritimes,
+which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town.
+
+ [Map: Marseilles to Cannes]
+
+4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village of
+St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for Bandol,
+a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. The
+industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on the
+plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.
+
+36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where
+omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on the
+Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; situated a
+short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestone
+cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to each other as to
+form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard de
+Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and Bandol is the
+culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent all
+over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. Yellow is the
+natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached.
+They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemons
+grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place of
+Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset,
+pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France.
+
+[Headnote: LA SEYNE. SIX FOURS.]
+
+38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is +La Seyne+
+station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de
+la Méditerranée, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which
+two ports there is constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is
+the office of the omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot
+of Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus
+returns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La
+Seyne, from which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the
+new fort and what remains of the ancient village of +Six Fours+, once a
+town of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has been
+cleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, which
+occupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, of
+which the earliest part, 6th cent., is at the entrance extending east
+and west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand are
+two stone altars (6th cent.), with windows behind them to give light to
+the officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to the
+audience. The nave, extending N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It
+contains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent.
+Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales
+de Six Fours,” the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brother
+Lazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt
+of St. Maximin (p. 143).
+
+
+TOULON.
+
+42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from
+Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from Cannes, 98½ m.
+S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is +Toulon+, pop. 71,000
+(see maps, pp. 123 and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the Grand
+Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and near the post,
+the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre; in
+the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an office where carriages can
+be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. From this “Place” start
+the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the road; also omnibuses for
+Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountain
+in the centre of the “Place” are by Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the
+H. Place d’Armes, fronting the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band
+plays on Sundays.
+
+The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, La
+Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières,
+Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start
+from the Place d’Italie at the east end of Toulon. In this “Place” are
+the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places
+see maps, pp. 123 and 129.) In the Place Puget are several cheap
+restaurants. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port.
+
+[Headnote: THE QUAI DU PORT.]
+
++The Quai du Port.+--The bronze statue on this quay, representing
+Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front
+of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint
+Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is the
+berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk of
+the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping planks. This
+was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from St. Helena and
+deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. The
+Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of the
+expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, with
+whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and
+Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of
+Napoleon’s adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, when
+the body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that same
+day the remains were embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the
+18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where
+the body was transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it
+up the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent
+car.
+
+[Headnote: CAB FARES. THE ARSENALS.]
+
+_Cab fares._--The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.
+
+The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising gradually
+from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west,
+and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on either
+side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix and
+large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and immediately
+behind it Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and
+behind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort;
+while from the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort
+Malbousquet. Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the
+last held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and
+most secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port
+Marchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail.
+Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy,
+all communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by
+well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the
+arsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on a
+scale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and
+employing above 10,000 men. Near the west end of the Port a large
+gateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the “Arsenal
+Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100
+forge fires, two covered building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an
+armoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by
+Puget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles
+along the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and
+ship-equipment departments.
+
+Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and
+sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the
+characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound,
+from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where
+gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The
+most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf
+fronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above the
+horizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it is
+crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, unfortunately, are
+poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafés and
+restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the town and
+neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November
+1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human life
+recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad with
+vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing even
+those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidst
+the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploring
+cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarking
+some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius the
+discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to the
+utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.
+
+[Headnote: TOWN HALL.]
+
+Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the +Town Hall+,
+adorned with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the
+statue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is
+the corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of
+nearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the
+smallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the large
+four, the windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in
+couples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under
+the eaves a projecting dentil cornice.
+
+The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is the
+Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immense
+lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round to
+the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit,
+flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow
+five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls
+fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.)
+At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts
+for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior
+contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to
+the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and Marguerite
+Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Mary
+announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the “conceived
+without sin.”
+
+[Headnote: SAINTE-MARIE-MAJEURE.]
+
+The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between
+houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of +Sainte-Marie-Majeure+,
+commenced in the 11th cent., and finished in the 18th. The exterior is
+unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entrance
+is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel to
+the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacle
+and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have executed
+also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing the
+apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the arch of the
+chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova.
+Several very good pictures adorn the church.
+
+[Headnote: ST. MANDRIER. MONT FARON.]
+
+All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are
+those which cross to La Seyne (p. 123). The steamers for the Iles
+d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from this wharf. The St.
+Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first at
+Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to the
+north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easily
+recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situated
+towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of Fort
+Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty villas
+in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamaris
+rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent
+carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of
+the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier,
+and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the
+roads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At
+the landing-place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day.
+Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St.
+Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments of
+this kind in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a
+handsome chapel, and a great cistern vaulted with concentric circles.
+Adjoining is a large and well-sheltered garden with orange trees.
+Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the
+Hôpital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered,
+it is hardly sufficiently ventilated.
+
+One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet
+above the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take
+the broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the
+railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the
+town by the Port of Ste. Anne--the name is on the gateway. From this the
+real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent and
+continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town and
+the bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to the
+left goes to the barracks and to the top. The nearly level road to the
+right goes to Fort Faron, and the steep road to the left to Fort de la
+Croix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette
+side of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, from
+which rise knolls of various elevations. It can be done in a carriage.
+
+[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN.]
+
+_Toulon Omnibuses._--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are
+to +Hyères+ (p. 133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a
+stream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S.
+side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426
+ft. high. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The road
+eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road
+northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence
+commanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +La
+Valette+, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by
+the omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writing
+the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been
+done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305
+ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all
+directions. I have sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many,
+but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet bold
+indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.” --_George Sand._ A
+carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a
+few feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and the
+best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite
+the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the
+way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves.
+
+The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite,
+eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste.
+Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the
+Place d’Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of it
+is seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste.
+Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east
+of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses,
+with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope
+of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable
+village a little to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned
+with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At
+Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke.
+
+ [Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyères]
+
+[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER.]
+
+The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E., behind
+Fort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours
+Lafayette.
+
+_Diligence Drives._--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19¼ m. N. by diligence from
+the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see map, p. 117).
+
+ The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and
+ Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and
+ 10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The
+ diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from
+ Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the
+ same way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the
+ beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau
+ between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are
+ covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and
+ vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the
+ valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328
+ ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from
+ Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the
+ Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is
+ indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the
+ olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the
+ flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best headquarters in the
+ valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent of the
+ Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E.
+ from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp,
+ 5 m. S. from Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway
+ station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map,
+ p. 123).
+
+[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX.]
+
+ The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking
+ the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are
+ the words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge
+ of sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is
+ a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the
+ eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern.
+ Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the
+ elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326
+ ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of
+ various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and
+ most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively
+ stony.
+
+ Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian
+ Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft.
+ above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a
+ bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road
+ divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The
+ building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only
+ about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very
+ large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at
+ the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased,
+ along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars
+ from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The
+ Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their
+ rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same
+ room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have
+ each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps
+ and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux
+ femmes d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage,
+ ni le prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même
+ le premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses
+ ou aux tromperies des femmes.” A nearer but very stony path,
+ commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the
+ convent.
+
+ Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by
+ Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the
+ Toulon coach to Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is
+ monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to
+ Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.)
+
+[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIÈRES.]
+
+ +Toulon to Collobrières.+--From the Place d’Italie a coach starts
+ daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E. by E., passing through La Valette
+ 3¼ m., La Garde with its castle 5 m., and +La Crau+ 7½ m. _Inn:_ H. de
+ France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few
+ yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of
+ this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyères and La
+ Crau.
+
+ From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from Toulon,
+ where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher
+ than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrières,
+ up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ frs.; time, 4½
+ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence at La Crau,
+ where it arrives about 4 P.M.; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station,
+ and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for
+ Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p. 142).
+
+ From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or
+ less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat
+ fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is
+ crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to
+ Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the
+ Real-Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop.
+ 4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with
+ narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing
+ view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley
+ of the Réal-Collobrier to +Collobrières+, pop. 3600, on an eminence
+ rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence
+ office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal
+ street, near the Post and the Hôtel de Ville with the promenade. From
+ the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an
+ excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields
+ and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the
+ mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very
+ old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are
+ forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the
+ exportation of chestnuts form the principal industries. The wine, when
+ four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it
+ is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured.
+
+ A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to
+ Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and
+ Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is
+ the chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: ISLES D’OR. PORQUEROLLES.]
+
++The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or.+
+
+ Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare
+ 2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back
+ to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins
+ of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros.
+
+ The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck
+ of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the
+ massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to
+ the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La
+ Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and
+ southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital
+ of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards
+ seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles
+ the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of
+ Giens (see p. 140, and map, p. 123).
+
+ Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of
+ 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern
+ coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it
+ terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The
+ vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the
+ mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards
+ and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained
+ from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants
+ are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium
+ minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea,
+ Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus
+ olbiensis.
+
+ The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N.
+ side of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins.
+ The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor
+ alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church,
+ the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the
+ two inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above
+ the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small
+ buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.
+
+ There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. coast
+ westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N.
+ coast eastward the +Chemin des Mèdes+, and the road up the centre of
+ the island, from N. to S., the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road
+ commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the
+ lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210
+ ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70
+ steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.
+
+ The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin
+ du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively
+ open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to
+ the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most
+ ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed
+ soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie,
+ a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea.
+
+ The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the
+ most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it
+ passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose
+ summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station,
+ commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the
+ other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast
+ to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road
+ right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement
+ looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a
+ farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the
+ continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the
+ N. of a hill 449 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT.]
+
+ +Port-Cros.+--11½ m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of
+ Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the
+ island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the
+ pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by
+ the church and the proprietor’s house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end
+ of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose
+ culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2½ m.
+ from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres.
+ The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and
+ quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth
+ beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times.
+
+ About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more
+ sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to
+ S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres
+ Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea.
+ Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.
+
+
++Toulon to Hyères.+
+
+ +Toulon to Hyères.+--Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, 11 m. E., can go
+ either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place
+ Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they
+ should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise
+ they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line
+ commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail from Toulon.
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS.]
+
+HYÈRES,
+
+pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the
+nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as
+Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but
+none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety
+of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.
+The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is ¾ m.
+S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage.
+
+_Hotels._--At the west of the town are the Hôtel des Palmiers, below the
+Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with garden off the main road; the
+H. Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d’Or. These three are
+first-class houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs., including
+bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea in
+the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the
+main street are the Ambassadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12
+frs., frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At the
+east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On
+opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house,
+the H. Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, is
+the Méditerranée, third-class. The principal hotel on the east side of
+Hyères is the H. Orient, 10 to 13 frs., a comfortable and
+old-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, and
+off the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs.
+Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13
+frs., in a sunny situation. About 1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the
+Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmest
+and most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel
+and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs., retired and comfortable, and
+frequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest of
+pines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with those
+of Hyères. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning,
+and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnished
+apartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French and
+an English bank. Both exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple
+Protestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal
+chapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west
+end of the town.
+
+There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, which
+take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations on
+the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large
+gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.
+
+_Cab fares._--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2
+horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES.]
+
+_Drives._--A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to
+8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised
+tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand.
+The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the
+Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La
+Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley
+of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day’s excursion, is to
+the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont
+(a railway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For
+description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back.
+The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brégançon, 16
+miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the
+eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St.
+Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) amidst large olive
+trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La
+Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château de Bormettes, built
+by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). A little farther east, on the
+Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon;
+and, on the western point of Cap Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles
+west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to
+Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that
+ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the
+Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes
+by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive
+trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides
+these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken
+in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the
+Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as
+some parts of the roads are not good.
+
+_Coaches._--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for
+Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., for La Crau 4½ m.
+N. (see p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails to
+St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var,
+start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see
+maps, pp. 123 and 129).
+
+[Headnote: MASSILLON.]
+
++Hyères proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the
+south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter
+stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far
+outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town
+and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the
+land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east
+winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or
+north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the
+principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops
+and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of
+which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the
+Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte
+Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principal
+gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R. Portalet leads
+directly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, a bust
+of Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de
+Ville. Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the
+left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the
+house, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of
+France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared
+sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to
+the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on
+Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- “Father,
+I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but
+whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The language of
+Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just,
+without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in
+the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii.
+14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from
+their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which still
+astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article
+“Eloquence” in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting “_la figure
+la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence qu’on puisse
+lire chez les anciens et les modernes_.” His father, who spelt his name
+Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son
+in the same house from 1647 to 1834.
+
+[Headnote: ST. PAUL.]
+
+Above the “Place” is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace
+commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar
+represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to
+the church is an ancient baptismal font.
+
+[Headnote: ST. LOUIS.]
+
+At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, is
+the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style
+and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The
+quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The
+pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance
+and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies.
+The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall.
+Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture
+representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3
+children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of
+July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in
+the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis
+about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this
+square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou and
+Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In
+1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which
+event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to
+the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he
+dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the
+western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in
+1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864,
+and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place
+des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous
+nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the
+“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared
+for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These
+gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered,
+and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.
+
+[Headnote: COSTEBELLE.]
+
+From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the
+Costebelle, about 2½ m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the
+Montagnes des Oiseaux.
+ The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in
+ little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern
+ end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the
+ chapel of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are
+ lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western
+ side are old olive trees.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHÂTEAU.]
+
+THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES.
+
+On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Château of
+Hyères+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of
+acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hôtel
+de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as
+the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The
+castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the
+7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called
+_Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, “air-castle.” Considerable portions of the
+walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most
+perfect part being on the western side, above the Hôtel des Iles d’Or.
+The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are the
+town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards,
+towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses,
+olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with
+generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux
+Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros,
+and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the
+peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the
+islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. long.
+On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the
+little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d’Hyères, and the
+Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from
+Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been
+shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain,
+are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt.
+Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure
+mountains and the Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this
+fort, northwards by the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and
+Léoubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea,
+crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123
+and 129.)
+
+[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET.]
+
+Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group,
+the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the western
+extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at
+the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on
+which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the execution of
+malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the east
+end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is a
+favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from the
+castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.
+
++Excursion to Mont Fenouillet.+--Behind the castle ramify three paths.
+The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the
+Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left,
+called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of Hyères,
+near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt.
+Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some
+fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutus
+unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt.
+Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of
+the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited
+by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3 Mai 1877),
+there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down
+to the road between Hyères and Toulon.
+
+[Headnote: THE TROU DES FÉES.]
+
++Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux.+--The best way is to take the
+path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending
+by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places
+it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus
+coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on
+the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyères
+on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.
+
++The Trou des Fées.+--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.
+side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The
+entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior,
+covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it
+lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path
+leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down
+by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle
+road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The
+other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly 2 m.
+S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. This
+water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E., through the
+gravelly soil of the plain.
+
+To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and
+confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble
+in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the
+lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound
+heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at
+such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the
+swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure
+mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the
+walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.
+
+[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING.]
+
+ The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the
+ Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences
+ in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a
+ curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees
+ become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state,
+ and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12°
+ Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The
+ cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the
+ trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each
+ of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now
+ trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime
+ and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork
+ oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive
+ member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an
+ important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has
+ become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time,
+ but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the
+ bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making
+ two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite
+ sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of
+ June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce
+ fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which
+ formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually
+ leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of
+ the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL
+ CATERPILLAR. PIPES.] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx
+ processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine
+ trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a
+ soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting
+ them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not
+ endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the
+ nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision.
+ On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the
+ Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are
+ made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris
+ manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages.
+ In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption
+ of the French word _bruyère_, signifying heath.
+
+ The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits,
+ and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries,
+ peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain
+ between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The
+ gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the
+ surface, there is always abundance of water.
+
+[Headnote: BUTTERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYÈRES.]
+
+ “About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the
+ Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus
+ Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the
+ beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most
+ abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and
+ September, many of the latter generation living through the winter.
+ Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de
+ Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in
+ April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce
+ Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora,
+ the A. Niobe, the A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge
+ Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the S.
+ Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and
+ the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer.”
+ --_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyères._
+
+ +Climate.+--Hyères is especially fitted for old people and young
+ children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be
+ strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming
+ to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the
+ cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyères is
+ not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its climate and the
+ beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter
+ abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated
+ movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who
+ are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the
+ plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the
+ most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the
+ more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.” --_Dr.
+ Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., and the average
+ annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every
+ winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore
+ the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not agree with
+ the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate
+ of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice;
+ and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young
+ persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis,
+ either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage
+ of that disease.”
+
+
+[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHÂTEAU.]
+
+THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.
+
+ The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m.
+ south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La
+ Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p. 129).
+
+ 8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for
+ La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and
+ a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every
+ afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach
+ adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.
+ At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land
+ which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The
+ large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the
+ Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite
+ (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and
+ sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by
+ the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south
+ end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt
+ is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles,
+ and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of
+ houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the
+ way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is
+ by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le
+ Château+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare
+ plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at
+ Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks.
+
+ From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of
+ La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of
+ mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a
+ house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to
+ the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus,
+ 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys
+ covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles
+ can be had on the isthmus.
+
+ After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing
+ station of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at
+
+[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA.]
+
+ +Les Salins+, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus
+ from Hyères to Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier.
+ Fare, ½ fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between
+ vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little
+ harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships
+ anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs
+ for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These
+ reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually
+ 20,000 tons of the value of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is
+ much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently,
+ but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p. 129).
+
+ +Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After
+ having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the
+ commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the
+ peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the
+ almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some
+ fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the
+ Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high
+ road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the
+ little port is about ½ m. distant by nearly a straight road
+ southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the
+ port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to
+ the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are
+ the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be
+ conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley
+ between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest
+ strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It
+ is 3½° warmer than Hyères.
+
+[Headnote: BORMES.]
+
+ +Coach to Bormes+, 14½ m. E. from Hyères. The coach, after passing the
+ ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La
+ Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides
+ of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou
+ road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood
+ of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group
+ of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape
+ Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In the Place de la République or St.
+ François is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At
+ the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the
+ new cemetery on the road to Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side
+ of the “Place” is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the
+ ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes.
+ Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six
+ small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding,
+ especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and
+ mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less
+ than an hour’s easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous
+ fishing village on the coast road from Brégançon to St. Tropez.
+ Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map,
+ p. 123).
+
+
+{49}{106}
++LA PAULINE+, a few houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont
+Coudon. Junction with line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have
+missed the train for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café
+below. From La Pauline the train arrives at +Solliès-Pont+, pop. 3000;
+_Inns:_ Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on
+a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville,
+almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the
+side of the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for
++Collobrières+ (see p. 130).
+
+
+[Headnote: CARNOULES.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{63½}{91½}
++CARNOULES.+ _Inn:_ H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m.
+N.W., on the line between Marseilles and Aix.
+
+
+[Headnote: GARDANNE. BARJOLS.]
+
++Gardanne to Carnoules.+
+
+Gardanne, pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from
+Marseilles and 7 m. S. from Aix (see p. 77). On this line, 16 m. N.W.
+from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, on
+the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather dirty
+town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees,
+has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are first
+carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed.
+They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, 13th cent., is
+in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse,
+was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the Sous
+Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In
+the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments.
+Diligence daily to +Barjols+, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont d’Or;
+situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p. 167).
+Diligence also to Toulon by Meounes (see p. 129).
+
+[Headnote: ST. MAXIMIN.]
+
+On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is +St. Maximin+, 1043 ft.
+above the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of this
+ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards the end of
+the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. It
+has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft. high, and the
+aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The width of the
+church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interior
+of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on each
+side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and fine-toned
+organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playing
+upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen of
+the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Few
+parts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty,
+elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a Flemish monk, Frère
+Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearing
+within a wreath a representation in relief of one of the incidents in
+the life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Under
+them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the rood-loft, and at the
+other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by one
+door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes.
+To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble,
+representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and on the other side, in
+terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in the
+crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N.
+aisle consists of a painting on wood by an Italian artist in 1520. In
+the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paintings on
+panels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is an
+Entombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in the
+same style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, and
+St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancient
+iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance into
+the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th cents. The sculpture above the
+sound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascension
+of Mary Magdalene. The undulating fluting on the panels and the
+sculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair down to
+the crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed a
+consecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body was afterwards put
+into the elaborately-carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of
+the altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the
+Innocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite
+Mary’s is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then
+follow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella
+(Mary’s maid) and St. Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been
+rifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the
+skull of Mary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one
+of her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p. 123.) [Headnote: MONT
+BRETAGNE. TRETS.] The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is
+said to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque
+mountains, partly in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, of
+which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it,
+coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, 5
+hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285
+ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map, p. 123.) 12 m. W. from St.
+Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200; _Inn:_ France;
+a dirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers.
+In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but they are small and unimportant.
+
+
+{75¼}{79¾}
++LE LUC+ station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse.
+Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Maure
+mountains to St. Tropez, 26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin.
+Fare, 5 frs. Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the
+station, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives,
+chestnuts, and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and
+12 m. from Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where
+the horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of
+the strongholds of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is,
+on an eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded
+streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The
+massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the
+top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and
+occupied till the middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez,
+and 25½ E. from Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated
+on an eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from
+which they were driven (p. 187), and all the fortifications destroyed
+excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. By the roadside, about
+half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a very large fir tree. 32 m.
+N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc station is
+
++St. Tropez+, pop. 3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms,
+at the head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the
+bay. The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is
+in the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast
+of the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall
+slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no
+apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the
+high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.”
+Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the
+hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour,
+opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of
+the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in
+Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The
+promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins
+of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St.
+Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to
+Hyères, 32½ m. W.
+
+
+[Headnote: DRAGUIGNAN. LORGUES.]
+
+{84½}{70½}
++LES ARCS+, pop. 1200, H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to +Draguignan+
+on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. _Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var.
+From the side of the H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250,
+on the Bresque. _Inn:_ H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see map,
+p. 123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to Aups, pop. 2350, on the
+Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N. from Salernes. _Inn:_
+Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence to Manosque by Riez (see
+p. 166). Also diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see p. 143). From
+Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, pop. 1000, situated
+half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ Bonne
+Foy; 6 m. W.
+
+Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, which
+attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the clock-tower, 58
+ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and of the
+surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and
+intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteen
+rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardin
+des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancient
+gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principal
+products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large dolmen
+composed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slab
+is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others are each 7 ft. high,
+excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced.
+Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, a splendid
+specimen of a “micocoulier” (_Celtis australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft.
+high, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend
+the street, and take the first road left. When within a few yards of the
+kilomètre stone, indicating 1 kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps,
+take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation
+(see map, p. 123).
+
+
+[Headnote: FREJUS. COLOSSEUM.]
+
+{98}{57}
++FREJUS+, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at
+the S.W. extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m.
+from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en
+Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their
+highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm
+of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of
+the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre
+green pines which clothe these mountains.
+
+To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Porte
+de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the greatest diameter
+was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 spectators. On the
+eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and the terrace called
+the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a Roman lighthouse. At
+this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughout
+is admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. The Porte
+Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. Having visited the ruins
+by the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave the town by
+a road having on the left hand a large building--the seminary. Having
+walked a few paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly square
+tower, which marks the site of the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in
+this neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
+water to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained
+87 arches. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once)
+powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part
+of the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining “éveché,”
+belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. In
+the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and well-executed
+caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and glimpses of the
+Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The Phœnician
+merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum Julii or
+Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or Agde.
+Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.
+
+ [Map: The Estérel Mountains with Frejus and St. Raphaël to Cannes]
+
+[Headnote: SAINT RAPHAEL.]
+
+{100½}{54½}
++SAINT RAPHAEL+, a rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In
+winter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and
+in summer from the hot interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the
+still more refreshing sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the
+France, 8 to 9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an
+eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to 13
+frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the cottage
+built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. Little
+steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p. 134).
+Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H.
+de Valescure. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a
+salubrious and agreeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by the
+beach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Estérel mountains, where
+the rambles are endless. At the E. end of St. Raphael is a very pleasant
+park, rising from the rocks on the coast. A little farther towards
+Cannes is the Boulerie, with a large hotel.
+
+Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and
+here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast
+are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_.
+
+
+[Headnote: AGAY. SAINTE BAUME.]
+
+{105}{50}
++AGAY+, a small custom-house station, with a few houses at the head of a
+small but deep bay, into which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top
+of the conical hill, on the S.W. side of the station, is the +Tour de
+Darmont+, a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte
+Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape Roux,
+1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to the
+old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railway
+to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards to
+the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into the valley in
+an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of Cape Roux till
+a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway will be seen going
+upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge is reached, close to
+the summit, where is a splendid view to the east and west and
+north-west; then take to the left, and in a few hundred yards a
+platform, with a spout of running water and a couple of abandoned
+buildings, is reached. Distance about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above
+this, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St.
+Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit’s life for
+some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from the
+hermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the way
+remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone pillar, a Roman milestone,
+with an inscription. Some archæologists base upon the existence of this
+stone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At the
+bottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.
+
+[Headnote: LE TRAYAS.]
+
+After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a
+magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +Le
+Trayas+, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from
+St. Raphael, 6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas
+also a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered
+nearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train
+passes from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes
+Maritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having
+passed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the
+beautifully-situated town of Cannes.
+
+ [Map: Cannes]
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+CANNES,
+
+on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E. from
+Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from Nice. Fixed
+population, 19,400. +Hotels and Pensions.+--Although there are already
+very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas there
+are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to
+resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the
+1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200,
+including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens
+attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett,
+agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a
+well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the
+public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25
+frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair
+gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per
+day.
+
+Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels
+and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir,
+8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the
+Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther
+up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity
+Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden
+fronting the promenade.
+
+Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the hotels,
+1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr.
+
+The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the sea,
+is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable to
+produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore
+many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ fronting
+station, the Négociants; the [1]*Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the Allées, on
+the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. d’Antibes,
+the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the H. Russie, 9 to
+12 frs.
+
+ [Footnote 1: The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name
+ of hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class.]
+
+_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking them in
+the order from west to east:--The National, 9 to 15 frs.; Midi, 8 to 12
+frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; the last four
+are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The H. Suisse;
+Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to 12 frs. Behind
+the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi, in the R. Bossu, No.
+8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.
+
+On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre;
+H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix.
+A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. de France; H.
+Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs.
+
+Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels
+Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;
+Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de Californie is
+the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28th
+March 1884.
+
+In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet,
+are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all with
+gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.
+
+At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension
+Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. A little
+higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence a
+road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a first-class house,
+on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it is
+the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on the
+Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs.
+
+On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is
+the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the
+H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach,
+and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10
+frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is the
+H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ Church, and on an
+eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., a large house with
+garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences,
+are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa;
+and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord Brougham’s villa. Farther
+west, and on the same level, is the H. Estérel, same price. On a hill,
+a little beyond the perfume distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la
+Tour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is
+called La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there.
+From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are
+fields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the
+perfumeries (see page 161).
+
+[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Churches._--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard du
+Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.
+Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid
+Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue
+Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.
+
+Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the
+office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold.
+
+_Cab Fares._--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the hour, 2½
+frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, 3½ frs.
+Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for
+Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and
+St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Saturdays
+trips to Theoule, 2 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM.]
+
+Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and
+partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and
+gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it
+extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills,
+and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square,
+called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at
+the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110
+wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between them
+is a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à Edinburgh, le 19
+Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is in his official
+robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose.
+The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and interesting
+collections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The
+obliging director gives every assistance in naming the plants, insects,
+and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the adjoining eminence,
+is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church of
+Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In
+front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St.
+Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower
+commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery of St.
+Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower
+is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new
+cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The
+monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing
+the following inscription:-- “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.
+Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose,
+K.T., died December 1874.
+
+_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nooks
+sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on
+leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The
+mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy days in
+the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice.
+“The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its
+equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties of
+the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic
+temperaments.” --Madden’s _Resorts_. “While Cannes, therefore, possesses
+a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many
+classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating
+atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those
+suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” --_Dr. Hassall._
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES.]
+
+_Drives._--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in
+carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their
+destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allées de la
+Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the Cours. The largest livery
+stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge for a carriage, with
+coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen carry their tariffs
+with them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the
+“Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on the
+Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of
+3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS.]
+
+THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.
+
+The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe de
+Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., and 250 ft.
+above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. S.W. by the
+Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one
+horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. By taking
+the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walk
+along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below
+Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road. About ½ m. from the bridge
+is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,” where tea and coffee can be had,
+and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera.
+About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S.W.
+end of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden.
+
+The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545
+ft. above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours,
+1 fr. each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which
+supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, by
+which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotel
+on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal commences near the
+source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. Cesaire.
+
+From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still higher
+summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère. The view
+is similar, including more of the interior. A short distance N.E. from
+this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which from the top looks
+as if it were nearly over Antibes.
+
+Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from
+Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de
+Jouan station is C. Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the road
+towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (p. 169).
+
+[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES.]
+
++Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and
+restaurants. The omnibus stops in the “Place” opposite the church and
+the Hôtel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an
+inscription, stating that “the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it
+refers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority.” Also a column,
+4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to
+Constantine.
+ Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery,
+ “Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the
+ “marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without
+ cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To
+ this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic
+ pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in
+ the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the
+ clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards
+ from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene
+ period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the
+ road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up
+ road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The
+ entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into
+ them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in
+ various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common
+ articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from
+ Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic
+ pottery.
+
+
++Vallauris to Antibes.+
+
+ The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to
+ Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo
+ pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come
+ to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The
+ road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a
+ bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans
+ to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and 169.)
+
+
+CANNET.
+
+Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is
++Cannet+, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H.
+*Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste.
+Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs.
+Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the
+accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of
+those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church
+is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab to
+Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LA CROISETTE.]
+
+Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by the
+beautiful road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½
+fr., or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous.
+Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive
+by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the
+entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The
+trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they
+were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost
+about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are
+those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process,
+and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there
+is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications
+begun by Richelieu, but never completed.
+
+ _Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats,
+ 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs.
+ Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts
+ from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,” fare
+ 1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the H.
+ Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a
+ little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also
+ built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side of the entrance.
+ From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the
+ pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the
+ fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St.
+ Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In
+ the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in
+ winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them
+ stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other
+ forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du Recrutement.”
+
+ [Map: Cannes & Environs]
+
+[Headnote: CAP D’ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE.]
+
+ The +Cap d’Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To
+ visit the “Cap” from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the
+ Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take
+ the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts.
+ Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via
+ Crucis,” bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group
+ representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D.
+ d’Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the
+ oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the
+ lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the sea. The
+ building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a
+ fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one
+ person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the
+ road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class house,
+ 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are
+ now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical
+ trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into
+ France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For
+ Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on a rock to the W.,
+ overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.
+
+[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE.]
+
+ +Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.+--_La Croix des Gardes_,
+ 2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from
+ the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises
+ from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the
+ side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the
+ _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is
+ distilled.
+
+ _Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.;
+ with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus,
+ 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds
+ with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c.; which, as it does not return till
+ 4.30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2 m. W. The
+ Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the
+ English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little Scotch church, behind
+ which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is
+ Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. A short distance
+ beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Eléonore-Louise,
+ where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the
+ garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the
+ side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with
+ pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor
+ little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is
+ held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in
+ Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the
+ side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From
+ it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs,
+ leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at
+ the foot of the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better
+ than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the
+ railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the
+ mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas.
+
+[Headnote: ESTÉREL. PÉGOMAS.]
+
+ _Cannes to the Inn of Estérel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.
+ Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18
+ frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca
+ and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right
+ or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265
+ ft., a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft.
+ Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft.
+ above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road
+ amidst picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The
+ inn is situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan
+ Pinet, 876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft.
+ above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near
+ the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about
+ 1¼ m. west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost
+ immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point
+ also.
+
+ 7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the
+ Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of +Pégomas+, pop.
+ 1350, on the Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden
+ among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but
+ difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or
+ 16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest.
+
+ About 3 m. N.W. is +Auribeau+, pop. 480, prettily situated on the
+ Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest.
+
+[Headnote: MOUGINS. CASTELARAS.]
+
+ 4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is +Mougins+,
+ pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, passing by the cemetery and
+ traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no
+ farther than Les Baraques, about ¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab
+ there and back, one horse, 12 frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s
+ rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one
+ gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of
+ the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower,
+ ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful view. To the west is La Roquette,
+ N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and
+ on the border of the Estérels, is the village of Mandelieu.
+
+ 4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by
+ the new road, is +Castelaras+, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a
+ villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view
+ of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to
+ the north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau,
+ and the Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to
+ the south. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take
+ the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the
+ steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse
+ and tower are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The
+ column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse
+ in 1883.
+
+ _Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer
+ makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste.
+ Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the
+ steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.
+
+
+ILES DE LERINS.
+
+The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m. from the
+mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at Point
+Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, containing the
+apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the far more
+interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was closely
+guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the only
+communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into the
+house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a road,
+bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the pine
+plantation to the other side of the island.
+
+[Headnote: THE MAN OF THE IRON MASK.]
+
+The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli,
+a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the
+13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti,
+by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has long
+since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in the
+University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service of
+Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made Secretary of
+State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand Charles IV., the last
+sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, created Matthioli
+supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the title of Count.
+Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador from France to
+the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was well aware
+would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his master,
+Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand Charles
+to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale,
+a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The
+cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus,
+Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont,
+while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and
+fertile plains of Milan.
+
+The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the
+prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication
+between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the
+person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and
+was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the
+schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French
+court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., who at the same
+time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly after
+Matthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over by the
+Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so
+exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé
+Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards.
+ For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond
+ Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé,
+ accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach
+ of international law required the adoption of extraordinary
+ precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang,
+ he was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled
+ armed attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made
+ any attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself.
+
+ By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in
+ prison, till orders came from Paris, stating-- “It is not the
+ intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well
+ treated, nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life,
+ nor anything to make his time pass agreeably.” He was handed over to
+ the charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence
+ in 1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars
+ removed his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste.
+ Marguerite, where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of
+ twelve days.
+
+ Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’
+ sojourn on the island are:--On one occasion he is alleged to have
+ written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the
+ window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, on
+ finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion
+ Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing,
+ which he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk,
+ who, when he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not
+ read it. Two days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of
+ these stories is to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the
+ Minister, dated 4th June 1692, in which he informs him that he has
+ been obliged to inflict corporeal punishment upon a Protestant
+ clergyman named Salves, also in his keeping, because he would write
+ things on his pewter vessels and linen, to make known that he was
+ imprisoned unjustly on account of the purity of his faith.
+
+ In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place
+ St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September
+ 1698.
+
+ On the 19th November 1703, about 10 P.M., Matthioli died in the
+ Bastile, after a few hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 P.M.
+ in the cemetery of St. Paul.--Extracted from the _History of the
+ Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport.
+
+[Headnote: THE ISLAND OF ST. HONORAT. ABBEY. MASSACRE.]
+
+ The Island of St. Honorat contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste.
+ Marguerite, from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of
+ 2½ m., shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight from
+ the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only
+ since 1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410.
+ In 730 and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the
+ establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again
+ flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume
+ Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the
+ tower on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. commenced the
+ castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the
+ fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on
+ account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and
+ buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of
+ Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of
+ Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay
+ brethren.
+
+ “What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what
+ Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany
+ and southern Italy, +St. Honorat+ was to the church of southern Gaul.
+ For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district
+ between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of
+ Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the
+ barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the
+ Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as
+ Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the
+ more illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had
+ been reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary,
+ Cæsarius, and Virgilius.
+
+ “The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the
+ massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on
+ the little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister.
+
+ “With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing
+ in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent.” --J. R.
+ Green’s _Stray Studies_.
+
+[Headnote: CASTLE.]
+
+ The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall
+ rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting
+ cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a
+ large hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and
+ by others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In
+ the wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the
+ ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took
+ possession of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown
+ by the concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong
+ cloister, in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor
+ of the first is supported on short columns standing round the edge of
+ a cistern. From this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and
+ refectory. From the upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel,
+ which opened into the library. Above the library was the infirmary, of
+ which not a vestige remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors
+ are next taken to the convent. The church and buildings are modern,
+ excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend much
+ time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last steamer,
+ and have consequently little time to spare.
+
+[Headnote: CHAPEL OF THE TRINITY.]
+
+ By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th
+ cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the
+ wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of
+ St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At
+ the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel
+ of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large
+ gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St.
+ Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a
+ stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught
+ different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to
+ their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is
+ the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *+Trinity+, 35
+ ft. long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great
+ corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are
+ the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why
+ in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in
+ edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three
+ arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of
+ the three apsidal chapels are semispherical.
+
+[Headnote: PLAIN OF NAPOLEON.]
+
+ +Cannes to Grasse+, 12½ m. N. by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G.
+ H. International, 9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le
+ Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the
+ stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the
+ other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious
+ water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change
+ from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow,
+ crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the
+ southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly
+ 695 ft. above the town. To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière,
+ 2920 ft. above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of
+ Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On
+ the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite
+ views. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of
+ Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot
+ of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the
+ face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a
+ cavern or “foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water
+ issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down
+ into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther
+ inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from
+ the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for
+ the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of
+ St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses,
+ built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this
+ way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours,
+ is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, in which
+ are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens--the
+ Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The
+ concierge uncovers them. [Headnote: JEAN FRAGONARD.] Immediately
+ below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house
+ of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean
+ Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are
+ five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing
+ frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue
+ des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some
+ decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are
+ shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church,
+ built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It
+ contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of
+ Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the
+ east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining
+ is the Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of
+ the 11th cent.
+
+ A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal
+ square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the
+ sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the
+ Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.
+
+
+PERFUMERY.
+
+ The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and
+ the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces
+ resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are
+ the Otto of Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of
+ rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto
+ of Roses, which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy
+ of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which
+ costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade,
+ is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used
+ principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it
+ constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is
+ that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Néroly
+ forms the orange-water of the cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is
+ superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs
+ are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of
+ glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the
+ other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a
+ layer of lard ⅓ of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs
+ completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are
+ renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is
+ repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles
+ are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (a kind
+ of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted
+ in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which,
+ combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then
+ filtered. This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals
+ require the hot methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.”
+ The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most
+ vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat.
+ Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging
+ a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is
+ melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or
+ 24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The
+ operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required
+ strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose
+ used.
+
+ At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of
+ *Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved
+ fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the
+ glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams
+ and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the
+ perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be
+ made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of
+ Warwick and Co., and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of
+ whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material.
+
+[Headnote: ST. CESAIRE. CANNES CANAL. CALLIAN.]
+
+ _Grasse to St. Cesaire._--9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there
+ and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little
+ village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560
+ feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a
+ large elm in the “Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la
+ Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in
+ the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end
+ of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence
+ there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on
+ its eastern side. The path to the cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the
+ upper side of this canal, and requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The
+ commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour’s walk farther
+ up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave
+ with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of
+ Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or “foux,” at the base of a calcareous
+ cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The
+ Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31 m. long, exposed to
+ animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course.
+ Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which
+ conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p. 146, and map, p. 117)
+ by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks,
+ through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 wide, and 82 high,
+ in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman
+ engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from
+ Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a bridle-path,
+ _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel
+ is about 9 m. distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1½ m. from
+ Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft., supplied
+ with water by the Roman aqueduct.
+
+ [Map: The Durance, the Var, the Col di Tenda, San Remo]
+
+ Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and situated
+ at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of +Mons+. Those
+ who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor
+ striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of
+ the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the
+ mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return
+ from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive
+ back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the
+ best flavoured of the Riviera.
+
+
++Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.+
+
+ +Grasse+ to the railway station of +Cagnes+ by the +Pont du Loup+ and
+ +Vence+, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This
+ drive is generally taken in two parts--Grasse to the Pont du Loup;
+ then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes.
+
+[Headnote: PONT DU LOUP. TOURETTE.]
+
+ _Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two
+ horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr.
+ Distance, 5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the
+ valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the
+ Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the
+ ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup,
+ which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole
+ way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on
+ the same level (1090 ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at
+ every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its
+ little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long
+ narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a
+ rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du
+ Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church
+ of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the
+ Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit
+ the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the
+ gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return
+ to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see
+ p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive from Grasse
+ to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very
+ same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15 m.
+ eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the
+ “Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway
+ station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m.
+ The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the
+ Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at
+ the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the
+ omnibus halts.
+
+[Headnote: VENCE.]
+
+ +Vence+, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or, pension
+ 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains
+ clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and
+ in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of
+ its old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.)
+ next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the
+ Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in
+ the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which
+ there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly
+ mutilated.
+
+ The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that
+ of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long,
+ 68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with
+ massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each
+ side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof
+ waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is
+ in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by
+ the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and
+ beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of
+ the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman
+ temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other
+ over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the
+ temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured
+ stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the
+ tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin
+ inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which
+ the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was
+ under the nave. The present “Place” behind the chancel was the public
+ cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab
+ bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone
+ sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked
+ into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in
+ the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th
+ cent.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR.]
+
+ To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs,
+ extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea.
+ The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the
+ +Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the
+ remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the
+ ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is
+ by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of
+ wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the
+ Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the
+ Cagnes, a “foux,” an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large
+ basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3½ m. from Vence.
+ The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most
+ easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines
+ of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still
+ sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and
+ sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is
+ famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between
+ furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d.
+ the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day,
+ for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. the kilo.
+
+[Headnote: CAGNES.]
+
+ The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole
+ way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with
+ part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop.
+ 1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes.
+ _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real
+ town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle
+ built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner
+ at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling
+ of the Salle Dorée, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also
+ added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are
+ the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The
+ chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not
+ equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see
+ p. 169.)
+
+
+ST. VALLIER.
+
+ +Grasse to Digne+, 63 m. north.--By the courrier 16 frs., changing
+ coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles
+ 4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By
+ private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day
+ at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day
+ breakfasting at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map,
+ p. 165).
+
+ The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and
+ rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier
+ (2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant,
+ population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand
+ views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains.
+ The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the
+ “Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., indicating
+ the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is about
+ 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per
+ day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the
+ Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The remainder
+ can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St.
+ Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-à-Dieu
+ is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge,
+ like the “Pont” across the Ardèche.
+
+ From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep
+ sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles,
+ a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside
+ inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated
+ 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse.
+ A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley,
+ one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from
+ Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded
+ mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.
+
+[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE.]
+
+ 19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is +Castellane+,
+ 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village
+ of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A
+ narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel
+ of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect.
+ Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the
+ river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here.
+ A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not
+ very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather.
+ 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie
+ (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches
+ the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to
+ +Taulanne+, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends
+ 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620,
+ among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the
+ river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during
+ 1130 to 1242.
+
+[Headnote: BARRÈME. DIGNE.]
+
+ 44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is +Barrème+, pop.
+ 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is
+ taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in
+ dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline
+ spring. The road from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the
+ valleys of the Asse and the Clumane.
+
+ +Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from
+ the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from
+ Marseilles, 62¼ m. N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is
+ 109½ m. S. from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the
+ road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to
+ Gap; and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons
+ (see map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the
+ Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655),
+ one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient
+ Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly
+ ground rising from the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest
+ part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the
+ seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent.,
+ numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the
+ Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs,
+ temp. 115° Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism.
+ Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March
+ 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of
+ the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and
+ both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p. 165).
+
+[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS.]
+
+ Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is
+ to +Riez+, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence
+ centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St.
+ Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque,
+ 22 m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Gréoulx (see
+ p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare
+ 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), 9 m. E., by
+ Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18 m. S., by Quinson.
+ Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian,
+ H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., _Inn:_ H. du
+ Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to
+ Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d’Or, 9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to
+ Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7½ m. W., whence to Volx
+ railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25 m. N.,
+ by Puymoisson, 3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on
+ the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, 7½ m. S. from
+ Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other
+ times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are
+ olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and
+ cherries (see map, p. 165).
+
+ Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly
+ surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the
+ towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through
+ either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed
+ windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other
+ side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally,
+ enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns,
+ bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is
+ about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4
+ composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is
+ the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is
+ 17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel
+ are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At
+ the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of
+ the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent
+ view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.
+
+[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE.]
+
+ A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious
+ village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and
+ returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronné. The village consists of
+ poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes,
+ at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the
+ height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these
+ precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt
+ iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the “Via
+ Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the
+ chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the
+ parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a
+ square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez
+ is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is
+ Castellane, but no public coach runs between them.
+
+[Headnote: BATHS OF GRÉOULX.]
+
+ 12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is +Gréoulx+, pop.
+ 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are
+ the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than
+ ½ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The
+ rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast
+ and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day,
+ 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and
+ furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is
+ 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most
+ abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt
+ new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the
+ chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia,
+ the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is
+ also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along
+ with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when
+ the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is
+ used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are
+ partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of
+ water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to
+ Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165).
+
+[Headnote: MANOSQUE.]
+
+ +Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble,
+ 22 m. north from Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and
+ 59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. Auban,
+ 31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. from Aspres, and
+ 130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and Savoy).
+
+ _Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the
+ surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste.
+ Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the
+ Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive
+ trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the
+ eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering
+ the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and
+ badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily
+ recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the
+ main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are
+ circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each
+ side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel
+ is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably
+ lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the
+ façade leads to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and
+ whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre
+ Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in
+ the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble
+ sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles,
+ and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and
+ child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a
+ silver bust by Puget of Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the
+ Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the
+ stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of
+ gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the
+ baths of Gréoulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m.
+ W., by Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. +Volx+ station is the
+ intended terminus of the rail from Apt.
+
+
+[Headnote: VALLAURIS.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{124}{31}
++GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station is
+a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his
+arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined with
+villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are
+pottery showrooms.
+
+
+[Headnote: ANTIBES.]
+
+{127}{28}
++ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortified
+port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers,
+without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable
+houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their
+valour. Those wishing a bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the
+tower beside the church. The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of
+Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 154). From Antibes station
+omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.
+
+
+{132}{23}
++VENCE-CAGNES.+ At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes,
+pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and
+contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the
+same road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several
+interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for
+perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the
+terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice
+runs a diligence (see p. 165).
+
+
+{136}{19}
++VAR.+ This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the
+eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from
+the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or
+pépinières, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the
+station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The
+first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by
+the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments.
+
+At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in
+January.
+
+
+NICE
+
+is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. N.E.
+from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. from Cannes.
+It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from
+Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf).
+Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon,
+mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the
+order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the
+“Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and
+opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of the
+cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18
+frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the H. West End, all
+first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day.
+
+The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have
+considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the
+sea so much. The H. de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11
+frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du
+Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the
+Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des
+Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 frs.
+
+Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre
+and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in the
+Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, and
+the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is the
+Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the
+hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden
+in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10
+to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly by
+French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.
+
+On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and
+pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the
+railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux
+Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs
+with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10
+to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At
+the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 frs., and the
+Hotel des Alpes.
+
+In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H. Iles
+Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and
+some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of
+the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp,
+near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the
+H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near
+the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 frs.
+
+ [Map: Nice]
+
+Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et P. de
+Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it the
+H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St.
+Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.
+
+At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it
+the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens.
+
+Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the
+H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.
+
+From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the
+Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the
+Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the
+H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the
+first-class houses--the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the
+Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d’Orient. The large building in
+the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal
+Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion.
+
+The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B. Dubouchage, and
+about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun
+themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the
+Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the first-class houses--the
+H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence
+in a garden off the B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the
+B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with
+furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church,
+and near it the Hôtel Carabacel.
+
+On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near the
+Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the road to
+the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès Hill, on
+opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P. Cimiès, and the
+Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about
+2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Massena
+has its terminus near the P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own
+omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the
+P. Anglaise.
+
+In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and
+its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate
+prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, in
+garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At
+No. 121 is the H. de l’Elysée, with front to the Promenade des Anglais.
+At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; and opposite, the H. du
+Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the
+P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs.
+In the Place Massena the H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial
+gentlemen the best is the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.
+
+Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the
+private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings.
+In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where
+they can arrange at the prices given:--H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11
+frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H.
+des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P.
+de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P.
+*Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais
+the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. André,
+8 frs., including everything. In the R. Gioffredo the H. and
+R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs.
+
+[Headnote: CAFÉS. BANKS.]
+
+_Cafés._--The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._--The *London
+House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare,
+and at No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._--The Cercle de la
+Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean.
+
+_Banks._--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds
+of banking business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15
+Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena;
+Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.
+
+_House Agents._--John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C. Jougla,
+55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple.
+
+_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi.
+Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time,
+the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice
+time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000
+volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P.M. It contains a few
+antiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust
+of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place
+Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.
+
+ _Booksellers._--Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied
+ reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du
+ Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. Gaze’s is at No. 13, and
+ Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.
+
+ _Druggists._--Of these there are excellent English establishments in
+ the principal streets.
+
+_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._--Of the confections the _specialité_
+of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing
+100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most expensive of the
+glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3¼ oz.),
+strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All the
+others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are-- *Caëtan
+Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and
+*Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery
+are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon.
+
+[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
+
+_Churches._--Temple Évangélique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian
+Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp;
+German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity
+Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel
+Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church,
+in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.
+
+Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.
+
+_Coach hire._--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per
+month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where
+carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month.
+
+_Cabs._--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and
+seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2,
+2½ frs.; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the
+hour, 3½ frs.
+
+To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats for 4, 1½
+fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c.,
+and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to
+engage the cab by the hour.
+
+All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena.
+
+[Headnote: CONTES.]
+
+_Diligences._--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start
+daily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m.
+N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see p. 180). Coach to
+Puget-Théniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare
+2½ frs., time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p. 182).
+Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low
+Corniche road. From the office, Place St. François, start:--Coach to
+Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs.,
+time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N.
+from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau
+Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea,
+and 15 m. N. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or,
+Rue de l’Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N.
+up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of
+Trinité--Victor, 5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the
+Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the
+ruins of the village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of
+water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange
+trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats
+to Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed.
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
+
+_Climate._--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and
+Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice a
+trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the
+mountains. M. Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty
+years’ meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed
+outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His
+mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake
+of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:--
+
+ MEAN TEMPERATURE.
+
+ Nice. Cannes.
+ November 53.8 52.6
+ December 48.5 46.3
+ January 47.1 48
+ February 46.2 48.8
+ March 51.8 51
+ April 58.1 55.5
+
+The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.--_Health
+Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D.
+
+[Headnote: VALLONS.]
+
+Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime
+Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish
+conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these
+ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides,
+scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the
+breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the
+stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great
+vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan
+exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram
+stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from
+the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly
+perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the
+Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the
+more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which
+high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to
+be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the
+more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance
+are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made.
+The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantéga (see plan), has
+great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is
+quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed
+with lime, makes excellent mortar.
+
+The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new or
+fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing
+avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with
+large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and
+“pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty,
+steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and
+running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it from, 3d,
+the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour.
+
+During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city,
+with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In
+winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it
+is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the
+largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating
+population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled
+together between the Paillon and the Château hill.
+
+[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY.]
+
+The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English
+in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful
+terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach of the Baie
+des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan,
+whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the mouth of the river
+Var, near the Racecourse.
+
+Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the
+platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the
+peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort
+Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings.
+To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the
+distance the Roche-Blanche (p. 164), the peninsula of Antibes, and the
+Estérels. This fortress, founded by the early Phœnician colonists, and
+destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed
+to the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now
+it has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains,
+over the Hôtel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added
+to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill
+(see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the
+monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881.”
+Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th
+March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. In
+the highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. In
+a terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery.
+
+[Headnote: CATERINA SEGURANA. MEMORIAL CHAPEL.]
+
+Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King
+Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane
+to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent.
+On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked
+the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon
+and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the
+standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was
+born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port
+before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue
+Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in
+1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No.
+15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in
+fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also
+the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died
+(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of
+the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches
+in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and
+variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de
+la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in
+Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too
+small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost
+of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne,
+in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of
+ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which
+the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior is
+covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue
+ground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes
+of saints in niches.
+
+The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the
+handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight
+line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are
+the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best
+shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind
+the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision
+kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, and
+dressmakers. At the east end of the +Rue de France+ is the Croix de
+Marbre, a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected
+in 1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Francis I., and
+Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentates
+through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemorates
+the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near this is
+Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, the
+second Protestant church built in Nice.
+
+[Headnote: ANDRÉ MASSENA.]
+
+On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the
+large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty
+public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in
+an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of
+France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which
+stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon
+to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “to
+drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea.” But the wary
+strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved
+resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a
+masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the
+chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but
+it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the
+river, called the “Jardin Public,” planted with magnolias, acacias,
+Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays
+here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on
+the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the
+summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery.
+
+[Headnote: CIMIÈS.]
+
+All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare
+lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice,
+and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m.
+distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiès (430 ft. above the sea),
+another favoured spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids
+requiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman
+city Cemenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of an
+amphitheatre 210 ft. long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince
+de Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered in
+this neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superb
+villa Val Rose, which in shape resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behind
+G. H. Windsor. The first road right from the theatre leads to a
+Franciscan convent built in 1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. The
+altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were painted
+by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only artist of
+eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some beautiful
+tombstones. In the centre of the “Place,” on a spiral marble column, is
+a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican feeding its young,
+a favourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages.
+
+A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to St. Pons (p. 179).
+
+At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first
+hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and
+separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in
+the market for food.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES.]
+
+The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. east, either by the
+high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing above
+Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises much above the
+coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An omnibus runs
+daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by this road (see
+p. 187).
+
+Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s
+rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the Pont Neuf,
+near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) start for
+Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. On
+feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St.
+Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H. Victoria, where
+bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close
+to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs.
+Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the
+omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with 2
+horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt
+Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a
+coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour.
+
+[Headnote: VAL-OBSCUR.]
+
++Nice to the Val-Obscur+, 4 m. N.--Take tram from the Place Massena to
+St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa
+Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by
+the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the
+left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the
+water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but
+as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the
+conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards
+long, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high,
+and 7 ft. apart at their narrowest point. By continuing this path for a
+little distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing over
+by a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a
+road ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft.
+above the sea, or only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve.
+
+The +Vallon des Fleurs+ ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive
+trees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the
+valley is about 10 minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the
+tram. A path leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads
+round by the head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it
+joins nearly opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the
+valley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For
+Cimiès, see p. 177.)
+
+[Headnote: VILLA CLERY. ST. PONS. GROTTE ST. ANDRE.]
+
+A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about 3¾ m.
+N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. André.
+A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5 frs.; with 2 horses
+and 4 seats, 7 frs.; ½ hour’s stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But
+if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. When about 1½ m. up
+the Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard of
+the Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yet
+in the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. The
+oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. the 100, and packed and despatched
+to order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the more
+beautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the
+hill (430 ft.), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery of
+Cimiès, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near the
+Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edifice
+passed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 by
+St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Roman
+senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor is said to have
+spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it was
+destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, Bishop of
+Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was annexed to
+the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part where the
+stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the Place Massena,
+is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4 frs. per day,
+second 3 frs. A little higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660,
+and (on a hill) the château of St. André. The château is a plain house
+with a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by the
+brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school and
+part is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is a
+small petrifying spring. From the château an avenue of ill-conditioned
+cypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. André.
+Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high,
+through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. André,
+dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through it
+in a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are
+sold.
+
+From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so
+narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road
+and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit
+the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. Those
+in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, a village
+perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. André.
+
+_To the Observatory_, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the
+expense of M. Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of the
+Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend by
+the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a house,
+ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The
+establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the
+various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on the
+west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and 46
+broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end
+dwelling-houses.
+
+
+[Headnote: LEVENS. LANTOSQUE. ST. MARTIN LANTOSQUE. COL DI FINESTRA.]
+
++Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.+
+
+ (Map, page 165, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.)
+
+_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque._--Diligence from Nice to St.
+Martin, 37 m. N. From St. Martin to Entraque, on the north side of the
+Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal to 25 m. From Entraque
+to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, 24 m. N. by coach.
+
+ The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon,
+ and after passing the villages of St. André (p. 179) and Tourette,
+ near the ruins of Châteauneuf, arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. above the
+ sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. des Étrangers, where the coach halts a short
+ time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and then descends
+ into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, where it passes
+ through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, pop. 1500. Then,
+ after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed the Vesubie, and
+ passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. from Nice, it reaches
+ the village of Lantosque, 28½ m. from Nice, 1640 ft. above the sea,
+ pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. des Alpes Maritimes. On a plateau 765 ft. above
+ Lantosque, and 1¼ m. distant, is La Bollène, with a large hotel,
+ charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. The
+ coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3½ m.
+ from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above the sea. It is the
+ station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with a comfortable
+ hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère. From Roquebillère the
+ coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the villages of
+ Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to +St. Martin Lantosque+,
+ 37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above the sea. An ancient
+ village at the junction of the Vesubie with the Salèses. In the
+ “Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn, the H. des
+ Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, 6 frs. Up by the
+ side of the promenade are some good pensions. On the opposite hill,
+ ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is the village of
+ Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding
+ valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with chestnut
+ and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. Martin
+ commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie
+ and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a
+ fancied resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide
+ to Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. up the Vesubie is the stone
+ which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. farther
+ the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. above the
+ sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable
+ _Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary.
+ Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in
+ about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft., is
+ attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France.
+ At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo.
+
+[Headnote: VALDIERI.]
+
+ A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about
+ 20 m. distant, time 7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all
+ the way to the Col de Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther
+ northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between
+ two mountains, 8745 ft. and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It
+ then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it
+ turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From
+ the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the
+ village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N.
+ from the baths, and 7½ m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the
+ picturesque valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through
+ the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at
+ the junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso.
+
+ A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta
+ road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it
+ ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows
+ the course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make
+ excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In
+ every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be
+ found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, the
+ writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer
+ need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at
+ seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine
+ districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a
+ narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants,
+ several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The geology is also
+ interesting, and would probably repay further examination.
+ A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly-inclined and
+ much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire
+ series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts
+ overlaid by nummulitic deposits.” --_The Western Alps_, by John
+ Ball.
+
+[Headnote: PUGET-THENIERS. SAINT SAUVEUR.]
+
+ _Nice to Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does
+ not become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the
+ junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and
+ where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. from Chaudan) meets the
+ Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop.
+ 1450, 1476 ft. above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty
+ village on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of
+ bare precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes,
+ pop. 1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., _Inn:_ Ginié. The roads beyond are
+ traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. from Puget.
+
+ The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On
+ the Tinée, 40½ m. N. from Nice, is +Saint Sauveur+, pop. 800, _Inn:_
+ Vial, with Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating
+ from 1309. Hot and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock
+ called the Guez. From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by
+ the Tinée to St. Etienne, where there is an inn. From St. Etienne,
+ pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col Valonet to Vinadio (see
+ map, p. 165).
+
+
+[Headnote: GIANDOLA. SAORGIO.]
+
++Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.+
+
+ Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m., 11 hours, 9 frs.; Tenda
+ to Cuneo, 29 m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to Turin, by rail, 3 hours
+ (see maps, pp. 165 and 107). This is rather a fatiguing journey. The
+ most beautiful views are seen during the descent from Tenda to the
+ Mediterranean. +Nice.+--Start from the Place St. François. The road
+ ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the villages of
+ +Trinité-Victor+, pop. 1300, and +Drap+, pop. 800, with a sulphurous
+ spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and
+ crosses over to +Escarène+ on the Braus, 12½ m. N.E. from Nice, pop.
+ 1500. About 1½ m. farther is +Touet+, pop. 400, whence commences the
+ tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine
+ on the S. and Mt. Ventabren on the N. The road now descends to
+ +Sospel+, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roja,
+ 25½ m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach daily to and from Menton,
+ 14 m. S. The road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence
+ passengers in this direction have their last view of the
+ Mediterranean. The descent is now made through bleak and barren
+ mountains to +Giandola+, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice, 1247 ft., at the base
+ of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ Étrangers, Poste. Coach daily between
+ this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, are Breglio, pop. 2580,
+ and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The road now ascends a narrow
+ defile of the +Roja+, which, suddenly widening, discloses +Saorgio+,
+ pop. 1600, 400 ft. above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of
+ dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill is
+ the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. From this the
+ valley contracts so much that the road has repeatedly to cross and
+ re-cross the river on its way to Fontana on the Italian frontier,
+ 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. Luggage and passports are examined here.
+ Almost the only habitat of the curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is
+ between Fontana and Breglio. The road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m.
+ N., passes through one of the most formidable defiles in the Alps, the
+ Gorge de Berghe, between steep massive walls of igneous rock. “The
+ bold forms of the cliffs, and the luxuriant vegetation which crowns
+ every height and fills every hollow, make the scenery of this road
+ worthy to compare with almost any other more famous Alpine pass.”
+ --_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a hydropathic establishment, pension
+ 8 frs. Coach daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda.
+
+[Headnote: LIMONE. CUNEO.]
+
+ 51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from
+ Limone, is the village of +Tenda+, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H. National; 2680
+ ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja
+ at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the
+ castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her
+ jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare
+ plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village
+ church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The
+ tunnel, opened in 1882--4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and
+ 4331 ft. at the Limone end--is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The
+ Tenda end of the tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the
+ Cuneo end at the hamlet La Panice. From La Panice the road descends
+ rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone+, 3668 ft., 63 m. N.E. from Nice
+ and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste; pleasantly situated in
+ the valley of the Vermanagna, from which an occasional glimpse may be
+ had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, after passing Robillante,
+ Roccavione, and +Borgo-San-Dalmazzo+, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo,
+ 80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ Barra
+ di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the confluence of the Stura
+ with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is Turin.
+
+[Headnote: MONDOVI.]
+
+ The easiest way to go to +Turin+ from +Nice+ is to take the rail to
+ Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and
+ Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the Santuario
+ di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for poor devotees
+ (p. 210). From Carru station, 50 m. N., a branch line extends 8 m. S.
+ to +Mondovi+, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tré
+ Limoni d’Oro. From Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m.
+ S., in the valley of the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance,
+ 8 frs.; cave, 2½ frs. each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S.W.
+ from Mondovi, and about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the
+ +Certosa di Val Pésio+, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a
+ hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September.
+ Pension, 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed, and well situated for
+ botanists, fishers, and sketchers.
+
+ At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the
+ junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31 m. N.,
+ traversing a picturesque country, between S. Giuseppe and Acqui, where
+ it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida.
+
+[Headnote: ACQUI.]
+
+ +Acqui+, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from
+ Alessandria. _Hotels:_ Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly
+ round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing
+ establishment, a large building with abundant accommodation. The
+ pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs., including the use of the
+ water, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in
+ mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and
+ were known to the Romans under the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of
+ their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths
+ of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient remains
+ immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a
+ temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a
+ warm mineral water bath. “The therapeutic influence of this
+ application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements,
+ rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of
+ secondary syphilis, and rheumatism.” --Dr. Madden’s _Health
+ Resorts_.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLEFRANCHE.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{142½}{12½}
++VILLEFRANCHE+, pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux
+at Nice, also by rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine.
+Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St.
+John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of
+Cimiès and Carabacel. 2 m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow
+bay, 2 m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche+,
+founded in the 13th cent. by Charles II., King of Naples.
+ The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as
+ well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the
+ little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From
+ Villefranche commences the splendid +Road to Monaco+, 8 m. long and 18
+ ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most
+ enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the
+ precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche by
+ rail, or 1¾ by road, is
+
+ [Map: The Corniche Road: Nice to Menton]
+
+[Headnote: BEAULIEU. PORT OF ST. JEAN.]
+
+{143½}{11½}
++BEAULIEU+, famed for its large olive trees. A little above the station
+is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des Anglais among
+“countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by autumn’s blast or
+wintry skies.” Down towards the village is another old olive tree, not
+far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco road is the
+Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In the
+creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a beautiful
+place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of the Riviera,
+at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of reddish
+sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with trees,
+which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were transparent;
+while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggle
+as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind the olives,
+and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon trees,
+bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall shrubs
+hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeks
+and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges of
+marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, carpeted
+in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the Posidonia
+Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of the
+Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up at
+various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree
+evaporation.
+
+A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads from
+Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the peninsula to
+the +Port of St. Jean+. The real carriage-road commences at the railway
+bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to
+St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The
+continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse,
+passing the signal-tower to the right.
+
+The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used principally by the
+tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes a very pleasant
+residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated among creeks and
+bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part of
+the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula of St.
+Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed by
+the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry around
+belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the
+10th cent. “A fir-clad mound amid the savage wild bears on its brow a
+village, walled and isled in lone seclusion round its ancient tower. It
+was a post of Saracens, whose fate made them the masters for long years
+of lands remote and scattered o’er a hundred strands.” --_Guido and
+Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a
+cemetery, a church, 11th cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and
+a battery.
+
+[Headnote: LIGHTHOUSE.]
+
+At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse
+(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story
+added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is
+ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at
+a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the
+first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles
+Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb
+is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a
+grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large
+euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula.
+
+
+[Headnote: PETITE AFRIQUE. EZE.]
+
+EZE.
+
+The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and
+Eze, the next station, 2 m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. The
+steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so
+exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has
+been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt termination
+of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the sea, to
+which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to pass
+through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the equally
+picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a phalanx of
+lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. high) of one
+of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearly
+deserted village of +Eze+, pop. 770, with the ruins of its castle
+founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored,
+built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Eze
+is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under the
+remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine landscape displays itself,
+while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft.) of the Corniche
+road, which here crosses the ridge terminated by Mt. Roux. At the Pass
+are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near the
+station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, and
+throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations of
+firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing it
+leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road, and
+another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to Monaco. A little beyond
+Eze is the station for La Turbie.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONACO.]
+
+100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is
+
+{149}{6}
++MONACO+ station, situated in La Condamine. At the station (6) an
+omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco on the top of the S.W. promontory,
+195 ft. above the sea. For Monte Carlo, on the top of the N.E.
+promontory, alight at the next station, 1¼ m. N.E.
+
++Monaco proper+, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid view
+from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and
+Muratore. Till the arrival of F. Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor place,
+where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from the
+produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches of
+scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the
+gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality,
+wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished
+anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its
+stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with
+plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid
+hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been
+built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few
+years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat.
+The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company
+with the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in the
+Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to
+build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold
+their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc.
+
+[Headnote: THE PALACE.]
+
+The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory
+since 968, when the Emperor Otto I. gave it to Grimaldi I., Lord of
+Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens from the
+Grand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez (p. 145). The greatest length of the
+principality, from the cemetery wall at the western extremity to the
+brook St. Roman at the eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m., and the
+greatest breadth, from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population
+10,000, distributed among four different centres--the city, or Monaco
+proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They
+are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupies
+its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast
+of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most
+easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. At the
+landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which the
+rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on
+certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date
+from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more
+modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle,
+the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the
+chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within
+the entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side with
+friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865,
+representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a
+horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an
+arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni,
+representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and
+right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left
+the first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin;
+hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the
+walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone.
+Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., Prince of Monaco. Ceiling
+painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings and
+green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed pictures
+representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red
+furniture; style Louis XIII.
+
+Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York,
+brother of George III.; red furniture and hangings; family portraits,
+some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom in
+which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered scarlet satin;
+ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegant
+bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low screen. 3.
+Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture and
+walls covered with white satin richly embroidered.
+
+The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very pretty
+garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers.
+Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden.
+
+At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money
+bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long,
+and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view.
+Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs,
+and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la
+Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on
+the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They
+spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or over the prickly pear
+plants, here very abundant. At this end is also the Jardin St. Martin,
+a very pretty promenade, with charming views. 500 yards west from the
+foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid road to Villefranche, is the
+cemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Among
+the many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre and
+Modestine Neri, brother and sister.
+
+[Headnote: LA CONDAMINE. ST. DEVOTA.]
+
+On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlo
+is +La Condamine+, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable,
+a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque
+gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church,
+on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, a Roman martyr, the
+patroness of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of
+Monaco, caused the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for
+having stolen the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the
+harbour and the principal railway station, as well as the less expensive
+hotels, such as the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works,
+and the Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine;
+Étrangers; Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in
+all, board and lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H. Nice and
+Des Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels:
+Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame
+Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the
+Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still
+higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of
+France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane
+leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels
+marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous
+company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms.
+English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter
+temperature, 49°.3. _Cabs._--The course, within the principality, 1½
+fr.; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. The omnibus that runs
+between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road starts from the Casino (see
+page 178).
+
+[Headnote: MONTE CARLO.]
+
+Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt
+termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the
+Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond
+the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of
+Focinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected in
+1862 by F. Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and formerly the
+proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into
+the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s
+(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the
+concert-room--a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with gilt
+ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the Muses
+and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned arm-chairs
+covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied by the
+orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued.
+Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and
+his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino.
+The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about
+three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance
+are the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors give their names
+and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms are the tables
+for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which the smallest
+sum admitted is 5 frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or £240. The fourth
+room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and Boulanger,
+representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, fishers,
+archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to
+trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and
+the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the
+tables.
+
+Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, and
+under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting gallery.
+Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramify
+in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and along the coast
+either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent coast-road to
+Villefranche (see p. 184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is
+studded, even beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas,
+partially hidden among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern
+side of Monte Carlo is +Les Moulins+, now quite a town, with shops,
+hotels, restaurants, and furnished lodgings. Up on the main road is the
+Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., dear. Down below on the coast-road,
+fronting the sea, is a small house, the Hôtel du Parc.
+
+[Headnote: GAMBLING-ROOMS. LES MOULINS. LEMONS.]
+
+At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to
+that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in
+the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one
+can gamble on credit. About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins
+by the main road is the valley of St. Roman, with some very large olive
+and locust trees. In the principality are also large groves of lemon
+trees. They flower and bear fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons,
+which ripen in spring, are called graneti, and those which ripen in
+summer verdami. They are the juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the
+most suitable for exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is
+that made from old tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and
+olive trees is composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse.
+
+_Excursions._--1640 feet above Monaco is +La Turbie+, ascended by a road
+containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are 14 feet long by
+9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the most are in bad
+condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one hour. It
+commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from the
+railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three restaurants--the
+France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most frequented. Bedrooms,
+2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful after a hot climb. When up at
+La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus to the little knoll close by
+and take a seat under the rock at the top, whence “From ancient
+battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks and curving bays.” But
+the one great view, which excels all the others, is from the
+
+
+[Headnote: TÊTE DE CHIEN.]
+
++Tête de Chien.+
+
+The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +La
+Turbie+. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the top,
+permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow of the
+mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a splendid
+uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the other places.
+From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, town, village,
+cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the western side the
+view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and the Maure
+mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les Moulins, Mt.
+de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, Menton,
+Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, which
+conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western side
+embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of St.
+Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, Antibes, the
+lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel mountains, and
+the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. A good opera-glass
+should be taken. A stony road leads down the west side of the Tête,
+through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco road, which it joins near
+the battery (see map, p. 185).
+
+[Headnote: LA TURBIE.]
+
++La Turbie+, the ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is
+a poor village, composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways
+close to the massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact
+for 1700 years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a
+prince of Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with
+excellent water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of
+Turbie, at the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to the
+sanctuary of Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m.
+from Nice, but scarcely 2 from La Turbie.
+
+The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the
+long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the
+Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that
+from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony
+paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie
+reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the
+Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into
+a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the
+Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one
+half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les
+Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar
+of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the
+remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to
+the Corniche road (see map, page 185).
+
+
+{150¼}{4¾}
++MONTE CARLO+ station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on
+Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROQUEBRUNE.]
+
+{152½}{2½}
++ROQUEBRUNE+ station, where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the
+low road from Menton.
+
++Roquebrune+, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the sea, among
+great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road a series of
+paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees.
+The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and more
+comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in the
+neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace is a
+small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the great
+castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded it to
+Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almost
+defaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the armorial
+bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop is
+supposed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of
+France, who repaired this castle in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to
+the top. “No warrior’s tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’s
+challenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their
+toil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil from trees that have
+for purple mountains made a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid.”
+--_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne.
+
+
+[Headnote: MENTON. HOTELS.]
+
+699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½ m. N.E. from
+Cannes, and 15½ m. N.E. from Nice, is
+
+MENTON,
+
+population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. _Hotels and
+Pensions._--Commencing with those at the west end of the Promenade du
+Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town to the
+Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and
+esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The asterisk
+signifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the price given
+that of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or boarding-house. At
+the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion; the H. St. George,
+9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo; ²*P. Condamine; *H. et
+P. Londres. These 4 houses charge from 9 to 12 frs., W from 1½ to 2 frs.
+Near the Carrei and the Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H.
+Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the
+²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very
+sheltered promenade up the eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where
+the band plays), built over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. de
+Paris, 10-14 frs., W 1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d’Angleterre, 9-12 frs.
+Opposite, the H. Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in
+the busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs., W
+1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and Tonin-Amaranté;
+and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. Opposite, the
+²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. de Menton, all large good
+houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H. Menton is patronised by Messrs. Cook.
+Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to the sea, is the Midi, same
+price. We now enter the eastern or most sheltered quarter, called the
+Garavan. The hotels are large and first-class, and charge from 10 to 20
+frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. The most westerly is the H. Italie,
+and, about 100 feet up the bank behind, the principal house of the
+hotel. A little farther east, on the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue.
+Near the Belle-Vue, and on the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a
+benevolent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, who
+are received for 20s. a week, which includes everything “except
+laundress and fire in bedroom.” For conditions of admission apply to
+Ransom, Bouverie, and Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30
+Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh.
+Below, on the terrace along the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining
+is the Paix, a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais,
+the H. et P. Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site,
+Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des
+Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais.
+
+Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the
+shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just
+behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the
+first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), *H.
+National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are the
+Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; the
+last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the P.
+des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, on
+the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l’Europe, 9-14 frs.,
+W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the H. and P. des
+Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include service, coffee in the
+morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never wine, excepting the G.
+H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but not coffee.
+
+Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders
+the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of
+the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys
+watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30
+million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the
+thousand.
+
+[Headnote: BANKERS. CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
+
+ _Bankers._--Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. In the Av. Victor Emmanuel
+ are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice.
+ In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro Bank and the English Consulate.
+ _House Agents._--G. Amaranté and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av. V.
+ Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. Michel. English doctors, chemists, and
+ grocers.
+
+ _Protestant Churches._--Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix;
+ St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H. Italie;
+ Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R. Partouneaux.
+
+ _Cabs._--One-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs.
+ Two-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c.
+ A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs.; a two-horse cab, 25
+ frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs.
+ the hour.
+
+Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St.
+Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two
+smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built.
+The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in
+8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even
+slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The
+public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the
+town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip of
+ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediately
+behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs,
+intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The
+valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep,
+badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.
+
+The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending
+from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two
+roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the
+bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous
+bone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks in
+the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food
+of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had
+employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond the
+viaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the line
+close to the beach.
+
+[Headnote: CAPE ST. MARTIN. GORBIO. ST. AGNÈS.]
+
++Cape St. Martin+, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The
+tram stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from
+the cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre,
+consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that
+remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From
+this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive
+trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are
+the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St.
+Honorat (p. 158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins the
+carriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. A stony path on the W.
+side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks and
+cliffs (see map, p. 185).
+
++Gorbio+, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft.
+above the sea. Take the road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the
+entrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of
+lemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. from the village the road
+becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop.
+500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the
+stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow,
+steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the
+little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end
+of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the
+tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The
+rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends,
+in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds
+lovely views. +St. Agnès+, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea,
+or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle
+built in the 10th cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path
+leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive
+prospect.
+
+From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the
+village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side
+of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of
+execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of
+much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the
+traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed
+of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion
+should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio.
+
+[Headnote: ANNONCIADE. CASTELLAR.]
+
+Convent and Chapel of the +Annonciade+, 722 ft. above the sea, on the
+ridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank
+of the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel
+Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of
+the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this
+easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the
+convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.
+
++Castellar+, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road
+commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from
+the Place du Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad
+highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with
+lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream
+Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way.
+Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees,
+is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets
+lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. end with the
+parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins
+of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. From
+the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming
+view. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January.
+From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau,
+3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guide
+advisable.
+
+[Headnote: BENNET’S GARDEN.]
+
++Pont St. Louis, Bennet’s Garden+, Hamlets of +Grimaldi+ and
++Ciotti+.--At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France
+and Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge
+of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are
+an Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet
+Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point,
+the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper
+entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The
+garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is
+chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full
+bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming.
+
+The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill
+leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemon
+trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having
+passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends the
+hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting
+of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from Ciotti is Mt.
+Belinda, 1837 ft.
+
+[Headnote: LA MORTOLA. HANBURY GROUNDS.]
+
++La Mortola+, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia
+omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of
+the +Hanbury Grounds+, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach
+by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the
+more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with
+the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the
+Pergola, a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive
+pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants.
+Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent
+view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera,
+is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the
+highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time and
+conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the Palmaro
+Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The generous founder and father of the present
+owner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of
+the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an
+hour’s drive from Bordighera.
+
+[Headnote: LES MOULINS. MONTI.]
+
+The most important drive towards the interior is to +Sospel+, 14 m. N.,
+on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p. 182).
+Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railway
+station side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are large
+plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi are
+Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4 m.
+farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably above
+the stream, are the church and straggling village of +Monti+. The
+bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar,
+well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the
+part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a
+small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crosses
+the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d’Ora.
+
+[Headnote: HERMIT’S GROTTO.]
+
+About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an
+almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window
+or cavity called the +Hermit’s Grotto+. Over the entrance is an
+illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another
+inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:--
+
+ CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO.
+ 1528.
+ (Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)
+
+The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. by
+4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27
+yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds.
+long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening.
+Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retired
+from grief.
+
+ [Map: Italian Riviera, &c]
+
+At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to
+take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques,
+hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign.
+This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride,
+Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation,
+resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by
+concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the
+capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her
+horse, and was forced to stop at an inn.
+ Robert de Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army,
+ and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a
+ few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to
+ his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so
+ overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of
+ Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in
+ the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost
+ sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have
+ been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard.
+
+[Headnote: CASTELLON.]
+
+ The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near
+ the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the
+ walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above
+ the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, pop. 320.
+ 5¾ m. farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182).
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
+
+ _Climate._--Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills
+ from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder.
+
+ “A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any
+ period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land,
+ must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the
+ leading characteristics of the climate of this region--the Undercliff
+ of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want
+ bracing, renovating--for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and
+ the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires
+ rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the
+ stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or
+ of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out
+ of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter
+ residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced
+ pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now
+ surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases.
+ This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by
+ rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of
+ nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and
+ thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and
+ assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician
+ to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of
+ the Riviera.” --Bennet’s _Winter Climates_.
+
+ “With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain
+ shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to
+ the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these
+ directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon
+ the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at
+ sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean
+ temperature of November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°.
+ When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day,
+ though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above
+ 60°.” --_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown.
+
+ For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185.
+
+
+
+
+THE ITALIAN RIVIERA,
+
+ or
+
++Menton to Genoa.+
+
+By VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, and SAVONA.
+
+Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map.
+
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{ }{100½}
++MENTON.+ The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the
+bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.
+
+6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of
+Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is
+
+
+{6¾}{93¾}
++VENTIMIGLIA+, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_
+near station, the Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi.
+All the trains halt here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or
+Italy is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of the
+luggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with the
+time of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale
+d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms, “Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment
+rooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train.
+The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominent
+position; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office,
+theatre, and the best café. The walk up this same Via to the town-gate
+shows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuation
+beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station,
+on the right bank of the Nervia,
+ on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery,
+ which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What
+ remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from
+ the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under
+ the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province.
+ Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily
+ between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183.
+
+
+[Headnote: BORDIGHERA.]
+
+{10}{90½}
++BORDIGHERA+, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is
+compactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the cape
+S. Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below,
+on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of
+the invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen.
+_Hotels:_ the best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a
+garden, near the station.
+ Similarly situated is the ¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20
+ frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the
+ Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station
+ are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to
+ 9 frs., and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward
+ are the hotels ²Victoria and ²Windsor. Admirably situated on an
+ eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P.
+ Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs.
+ At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with
+ industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by
+ an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing
+ through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour
+ between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of
+ Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high
+ town.
+
+ The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose
+ tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale
+ yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with
+ vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon,
+ after the olive, is the most profitable tree.
+
+ To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada
+ Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This
+ tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as
+ an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a
+ delightful view of part of the coast.
+
+[Headnote: ISOLA BUONA.]
+
+ 2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the
+ Nervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1½
+ to 2½ m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m.
+ from Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m.
+ from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with
+ the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th
+ cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and
+ on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The
+ confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads
+ up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce,
+ commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is
+ Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone
+ bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses
+ crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal
+ castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by
+ the Genoese in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera,
+ is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe
+ manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way
+ up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from
+ Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni
+ Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as
+ astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory
+ at Paris for four generations.
+
+[Headnote: PIGNA.]
+
+ A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is +Pigna+, on the +Nervia+,
+ at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village where
+ the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from
+ the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose
+ window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the
+ apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the
+ church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and
+ picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous
+ spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near
+ Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of
+ Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., to
+ Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.
+
+ The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by
+ Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is the
+ hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster
+ representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends
+ from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm
+ and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway,
+ is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the
+ Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills
+ behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the
+ sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings,
+ mostly by great Italian masters, such as Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano,
+ F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino,
+ Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti.
+ In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected
+ by the Abbé Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at
+ his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the
+ sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix,
+ bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano
+ Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from
+ Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LA COLLA.]
+
+ La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary
+ to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to
+ “wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St.
+ Peter’s. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from
+ Ospedaletti.
+
+ The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a
+ residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at
+ Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the
+ configuration of the coast into a west wind.
+
+ Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies,
+ as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of
+ Tabernacles.
+
+
+[Headnote: OSPEDALETTI.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{13½}{87}
++OSPEDALETTI+, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage
+towards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In the
+village is the ²H. and P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. Upon an
+eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining is
+a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. The
+gambling is private, and on a small scale.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS.]
+
+{16½}{84}
++SAN REMO+, 16¼ m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter
+18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the
+maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water,
+and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious
+trades.
+
+_Hotels._--Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ²
+second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of
+their class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the
+principal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la
+Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden.
+ Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the ¹*H. San Remo;
+ the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate
+ Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne,
+ frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire’s is
+ the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post
+ Office.
+
+ On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio
+ Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the
+ Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and
+ the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings
+ the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes
+ doctors’ fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except
+ washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts
+ & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.
+
+ At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one
+ front to the sea and the other to the road--the ¹H. Méditerranée and
+ the ¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are
+ the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains.
+
+ At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences
+ in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P.
+ Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German);
+ ¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate);
+ ¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on
+ this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the
+ pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the
+ pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs.
+
+ Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo
+ and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and
+ Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p. 165).
+
+ _Cab Fares._--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1½ fr.
+ night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ fr.
+ during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at night,
+ 4 frs.
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES.]
+
+Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of
+these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via
+Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants,
+booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean
+temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s
+estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of
+the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet
+for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly
+3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the
+protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter
+from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast
+olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into
+healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and
+removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected
+spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable
+choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying
+distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while
+the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers,
+provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” --Williams’ _Winter
+Stations_.
+
+San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at
+Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces
+built up with low stone walls without plaster.
+
+[Headnote: POGGIO.]
+
+The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San
+Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the
+Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where
+the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the
+latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the
+“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through
+olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to
+the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory,
+while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on
+the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many
+wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended
+all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the
+Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H. Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. from San
+Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the
+profusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of the
+excursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20
+frs., with ½ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The
+chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San
+Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma,
+Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind
+them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the
+west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the
+chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. rest (see maps,
+pp. 163 and 199).
+
+A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla,
+on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea,
+and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2
+horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See page 199.
+
+
+[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO.]
+
++St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.+
+
+One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above
+the sea, and 4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the
+Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of
+some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was
+inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from
+it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above the
+sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge,
+descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and
+make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends
+to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about
+half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte Bignone,
+it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are
+strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite
+practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat
+trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is
+exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost
+every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with
+amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it
+runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and
+rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after
+an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the
+broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the
+ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained,
+and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable lies
+stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more
+than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder.
+To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far
+distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo;
+on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of
+the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla,
+and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains
+of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the
+various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes and even the
+Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the
+farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and
+Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are the
+mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the
+Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep
+valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than
+the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped
+Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in
+the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a
+narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of
+Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a
+singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the
+houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading
+down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but
+clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be
+made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful
+and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p. 201, and
+map, p. 165.)
+
+[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE.]
+
+“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the
+splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be
+seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in
+Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with
+ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair
+health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare
+and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a
+lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue
+Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met
+with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its
+trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula
+acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip,
+Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.;
+Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.;
+Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady
+dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers
+were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some
+weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many
+plants of Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower
+the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species
+so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” --_San Remo and
+the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall.
+
++San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12
+frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from
+San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from
+Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs.
+ The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia,
+ formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or
+ Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From
+ the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of
+ Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the
+ Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The
+ Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of
+ Badalucco.
+
+
+[Headnote: TAGGIA.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{21½}{79}
++TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus
+awaits passengers (½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at
+the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to
+Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and
+about ½ hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the
+gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty
+town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair
+churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the principal street in the town--is the
+habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering
+the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to
+the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the
+beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the
+ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San
+Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that
+of San Remo.
+
+
+[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA.]
+
+{31}{69½}
++PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce.
+
+Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small
+bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town,
+containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double
+row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior
+represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this
+coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly
+finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided
+into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with
+attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are
+covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the
+edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly
+hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows
+and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade,
+connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant,
+beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace
+of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we
+reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is
+covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence
+overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full
+of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way
+to
+
+[Headnote: ALASSIO. ALBENGA.]
+
++Alassio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and
+56 m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a
+high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et
+P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. end, the
+*G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H.
+Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel.
+
+Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some
+of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of
+the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the
+hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or
+up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large
+carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio and
+the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a
+castle on the summit of the hill.
+
++Albenga+ is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little
+distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria.
+Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the
+birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a
+broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous
+trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees
+trained as espaliers. A good carriage-road extends up the valley of the
+Nerva and across the Col di S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio
+and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.
+
+After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach
+at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola,
+pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon
+trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape.
+
+
+[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI.]
+
+{59½}{41}
++FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the
+Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles
+of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes,
+presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the
+church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The
+pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great
+deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the
+valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th
+cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N.
+from Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the
+commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town,
+formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially
+surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced
+from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via
+Emanuele II., which commences at the beach on E. side by the
+clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the
+new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio,
+leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime
+pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls
+garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the
+station. Fishing is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the
+coast, leads to Spotorno.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAVONA.]
+
+{74}{26½}
++SAVONA+, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di
+Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse.
+In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his
+spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now
+modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad
+streets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in
+enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the
+Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied
+by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are
+small harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is,
+in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different
+shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of
+gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the
+western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest
+the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the
+Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle
+of Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first
+chapel, left on entering, a “Nativity” by A. Semini. The figure of the
+Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the
+others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church
+is an “Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a
+triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the
+altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800
+years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to
+500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus
+IV., and Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona.
+4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di
+Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with
+precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the
+intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m.
+northwards (see p. 183).
+
+
+[Headnote: ALBISSÓLA.]
+
+{77}{23½}
++ALBISSÓLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from
+the Port or Marina. 4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop.
+10,000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A little
+shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange
+groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the
+_Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means of
+transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous
+missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano,
+6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera,
+sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso
+(1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs,
+umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees,
+and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there
+just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness
+of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the
+village of Inoria.
+
+
+ [Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante]
+
+[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{85}{15½}
++COGOLETO+, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and on
+reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left.
+In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus,
+with the following inscription:--
+
+ _Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;_
+ _Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!_
+ _Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere._
+
+It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the
+other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That
+in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the
+adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where
+it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a
+continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this
+sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast
+continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances,
+they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious
+nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of
+Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of
+Cogoleto. Map, p. 220.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARENZANO.]
+
+{87¼}{13¼}
++ARENZANO+, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of
+the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque
+country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between
+Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.
+
+
+{91¾}{8¾}
++VOLTRI+, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and
+shipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p. 220.
+
+
+[Headnote: PEGLI.]
+
+{95}{5½}
++PEGLI+, pop. 1000. _A winter station._ The largest hotel is the
+*H. Pegli et de la Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other
+to the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15
+frs. On the beach the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little
+village, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant
+communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of
+the grounds around the +Villa Pallavicini+, ornamented with statues of
+Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. But
+the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with large
+stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergreen
+shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At
+one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many miles
+distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a
+hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and of
+soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble down
+the mountain in cascades into the lake, which had to be lined with
+porcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and covered
+with consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed
+in a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In other
+parts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water,
+and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant,
+1 fr.; for party, 2 frs.
+
+[Headnote: SESTRI-PONENTE. CORNIGLIANO.]
+
+1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is +Sestri-Ponente+, pop.
+10,800. _Hotel:_ *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing
+establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small
+pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom
+every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the
+gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered
+with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues of
+the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than
+the next town, +Cornigliano+, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered
+garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4°
+to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both
+hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous
+suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway
+station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus
+of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.
+
+
+[Headnote: GENOA.]
+
+{100½}{ }
++GENOA+, pop. 145,000. The hotels most conveniently situated for
+visitors are the G. H. de Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari,
+opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15
+frs., No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the
+post; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the
+Piazza Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above
+are in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port
+in the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who
+have to embark, are--taking them in the order from W. to E.--the Croix
+de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the
+*France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last two
+hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are the
+best money-changers.
+
+For +Genoa to Turin+, see p. 279.
+
+Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards from
+the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad street
+Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches.
+Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by
+the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Maddalena,
+which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of that
+Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.
+
+[Headnote: CAFÉS. CABS. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Cafés._-- *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle
+Nazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. +The principal sights+ are
+the church of the Annunziata, p. 212; the Cemetery approached by the
+Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between the
+railway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria in
+Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de
+Ferrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea
+(p. 218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the
+Museum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di
+Circonvallazione.
+
+Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari,
+Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily.
+Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania,
+Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English
+steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean,
+apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo.
+
+1-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½
+hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs--the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every
+successive ½ hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each.
+Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N.W. (p. 279).
+
+Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo
+Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.
+
+Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving ground,
+rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500 to 600
+feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets from 6
+to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut in
+them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di
+Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos”
+skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza
+Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to
+the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the
+upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di
+Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of
+Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style--gates 40 feet
+high, with marble columns--courts paved with various coloured
+marbles--broad staircases, all of marble--rooms 30 feet high with arched
+ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, crystal
+lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels divided
+by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings in oil.
+The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a
+continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the
+west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa.
+
+[Headnote: PALACES. PALAZZO DORIA.]
+
+The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of
+art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty
+staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo
+Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via
+Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces
+are remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient to leave with the keeper of
+the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms provided with a
+list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on a card, which
+makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and guides.
+
+As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and the
+cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after having
+visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of the
+Via S. Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by the
+ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria di
+Carignano.
+
+The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria,
+reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by
+Perino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to the
+paintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeating
+the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the
+entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea
+Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the garden, on
+the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules,
+erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog Rolando, given
+him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the title of “Il
+Principe.” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo, and
+over the altar the sword presented to him by Paul III.
+
+ [Map: Genoa]
+
+[Headnote: VIA MILANO.]
+
+Adjoining the Doria palace is the +Via Milano+, a terraced promenade
+lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more
+costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking
+_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the Royal
+Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the
+Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P. F. Cantone and J. A.
+Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been so greatly
+admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The accommodation is
+extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the principal reception
+hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are indifferent.
+
+The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of B. Bianco,
+and improved by P. A. Corradi, contains a large collection of
+paintings--among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a St. Jerome, by
+Guido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by Tizziano; a St.
+George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by Correggio.
+
+[Headnote: P. DURAZZO PALLAVICINI.]
+
+No. 1 Via Balbi is the +P. Durazzo Pallavicini+, one of the most
+important to visit. The architect was B. Bianco, but the vestibule and
+staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by A. Tagliafico. The
+paintings are almost entirely by Italian masters, such as Molinaretti,
+Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, Lanfranco, Procaccini,
+Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, Vercelli, Reni, Merone,
+Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first room there is a valuable
+triptych by A. Durer, and the gem of the collection, James I. of England
+and Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception room are other three choice
+works by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola,
+Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of the
+artists and subject.
+
+From the Via Balbi we pass into the +Piazza dell’ Annunziata+, with, on
+the left hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa,
+built in 1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its
+present state by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six
+stately marble columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty,
+and resplendent with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the
+entrance is Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on
+the cupola are by A. Ansaldi, those on the choir by J. Benzo, and the
+remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things
+are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and
+the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for
+Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes.
+
+We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to +San
+Siro+, which was the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar
+is by Puget. The fresco on the roof by G. B. Carlone. The marble columns
+are all of one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6
+Piazza Pellicceria, is the +Palazzo Spinola+, with many beautiful
+paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by
+Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino,
+a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin by L. Giordano, the Last
+Supper by G. C. Procaccini, S. Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family by
+Albani, the Four Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem
+of the collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by
+Tavarone, G. Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO ROSSO.]
+
+In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the +Palazzo Rosso+ (Galleria
+Brignoli), with a small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian
+masters, distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn,
+and Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and
+Carloni. It contains also a good library.
+
+No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, a splendid
+building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes representing
+incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and galleries are open
+to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala Rossa, and the
+Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a portrait of
+Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing him in the
+presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among other
+paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A. Durer, and in the third (the
+Sala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect was Rocco
+Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by G. T. Carlone,
+and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, and M. Canzio.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO SERRA.]
+
+At No. 12 Via Nuova is the +P. Serra+, built, like most of the other
+palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect
+Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments
+are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the
+brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber,
+representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of
+Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect
+Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste.
+But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon,
+shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt,
+alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The
+architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the
+roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks.
+The roof of the next room was painted by A. Semini.
+
+The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though smaller
+display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of No. 5 in this
+same street, the P. Spinola.
+
+At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and
+splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by P.
+Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and Tintoretto. We
+now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, the principal
+theatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, where young
+men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and sculpture.
+Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram stops at the
+cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of Carignano.
+
+The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to +S. Matteo+,
+built in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G. A. Montorsoli at the request of
+Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on
+the church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of the
+church belonged to the Doria family.
+
+[Headnote: S. AMBROGIO.]
+
+In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautiful
+marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of the
+Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the
+Assumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one
+possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same
+master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and
+Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+,
+now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is
+ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena
+marble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed
+by Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used
+by Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
+
+On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the
+11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of
+black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of three
+large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch of
+the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work,
+while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. In
+the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated
+from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches,
+over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir
+has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in
+the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the
+chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It was
+built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and M. Civitali,
+of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official
+robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by four
+porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to contain the
+ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the
+right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van
+Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of
+the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Cæsarea, in Palestine,
+and tradition asserted that it had been presented by the Queen of Sheba
+to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb
+with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law was
+passed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to
+the vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that the
+material was only glass.
+
+Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a cab-stand,
+whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens to
+the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views of
+Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, passing
+through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY.]
+
++S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo
+Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above
+the entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four
+colossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by
+Puget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings
+(covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and
+Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross
+by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the
+highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an
+excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square
+goes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill
+at the N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine
+view.
+
+About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo
+Santo+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ hour from
+the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the
+Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of
+the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.
+
+[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI.]
+
+The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820
+ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of
+21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three
+coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room
+enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The
+poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded
+by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all
+that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to
+the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of those
+they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely
+statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley
+contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other two
+galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large piece
+of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77
+long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstone
+from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of a
+great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black
+marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal
+statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade rests on six
+white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure of galleries,
+stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead.
+At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse,
++Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di
+Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing
+accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large
+establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.
+
+
++The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.+
+
+ Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps,
+ pages 199 and 211.
+
+ miles from GENOA
+ miles to PISA
+
+{ }{102½}
++GENOA.+--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with the
+exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated between Nervi and
+Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N.
+winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards,
+orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, and
+fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of the
+superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a site
+for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p. 211.
+
+
+[Headnote: NERVI.]
+
+{7½}{95}
++NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. et P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large
+garden, 8 to 15 frs. H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to
+12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et
+P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., including wine;
+admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminus
+of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8 frs. Opposite,
+the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service.
+
+Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous
+narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S.
+side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with olive trees and
+studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. from Nervi is +Santa
+Margherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs.
+A charmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the
+neighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful
+gardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the
+village and promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the
+villa Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the
+promontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing
+village of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.
+
+
+{18½}{84}
++RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a
+small bay. A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the
+many pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low road
+skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle
+longer.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHIÁVARI.]
+
+{24¼}{78¼}
++CHIÁVARI+, pop. 12,000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo
+della Fenicé; Locanda Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the
+best towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets,
+substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuable
+pictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, the
+church of the Virgin of Orta, whose “sacred” picture hangs over the high
+altar. Chiávari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twisted
+straw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the
+organ-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4½ m. from Chiávari,
+across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand
+Hotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this
+pleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay
+terminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand
+view. Shortly after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf
+of Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the
+island of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief
+of which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45
+frs.
+
+
+[Headnote: SPEZIA.]
+
+{56½}{46}
++SPEZIA+, pop. 11,500, 1 m. from station. Spezia, although near good
+scenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitable
+winter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the spacious
+corso along the beach, the best being the “Croce di Malta,” a large and
+handsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow the H. National; the
+Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-class, but the
+Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1½ fr. per hour;
+with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italian
+navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world.
+Napoleon I. intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour of
+France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies
+150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S. Vito, cover
+an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of the bay is the picturesque Porto
+Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per
+carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black,
+with gold-coloured veins.
+
+“To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte
+Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the
+Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte
+Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand
+panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of
+Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While
+the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern
+and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which
+renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the
+Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia
+valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that
+time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite
+excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6 m.
+S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a most
+sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the sun has
+set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian villa, which
+Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, near the
+village.” --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the train
+crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, and
+arrives at
+
+
+[Headnote: SARZANA.]
+
+{67¾}{34¾}
++SARZANA+, pop. 11,200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town,
+with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the
+Grand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese
+in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the
+birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447
+elected pope under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted his
+native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and
+founder of the Vatican library.
+
+The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed to
+Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly
+of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street
+right, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen minutes’
+farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, a beautiful
+though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the
+railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen from
+the station.
+
+
+[Headnote: AVENZA.--CARRARA.]
+
+{74}{31}
++AVENZA.+ Station for Carrara, 3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also
+for Carrara await passengers at the station. Fare, 5 fr.
+
+ +Carrara+ (pop. 14,000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union
+ of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys
+ with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the
+ theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the
+ Accademia. Near the Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the
+ station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing
+ the bridge by Walton’s marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio
+ Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a
+ short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels.
+ The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream
+ Torano, and the village of the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara.
+ The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden
+ bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble.
+ To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio
+ Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all
+ of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue
+ to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which
+ there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the
+ mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris.
+ The nearest and the easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The
+ other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent
+ the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been
+ found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and
+ Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any
+ particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common
+ road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the
+ valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique
+ Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The
+ marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from
+ Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not
+ troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great
+ business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and
+ the principal establishments the studios of the artists, where
+ statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and
+ exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.
+
+ The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior
+ walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is
+ nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies
+ of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found
+ chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti.
+
+
+ miles from GENOA
+ miles to PISA
+
+{78¼}{26¾}
++MASSA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot of
+Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts.
+Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds,
+so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the
+Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the
+gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both on
+the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci,
+although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The town
+is quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but the
+principal occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square was
+once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon’s sister. Valuable
+marble quarries. Pop. 5000.
+
+
+{84¼}{20¾}
++PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works
+near the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On
+the first large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in
+it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovi
+contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze.” S. Martino (13th
+cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the
+churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile
+(1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the church
+are handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domes
+and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Municipale,
+with, in front, a statue to Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino
+(14th cent.), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood
+are quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble
+quarries.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIAREGGIO.]
+
+{90¾}{14¼}
++VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine;
+Commercio. A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa
+and Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast
+on this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake
+Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about
+6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.
+
+
+[Headnote: PISA.]
+
+{105}{ }
++PISA+, pop. 26,300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’
+Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to
+station, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; left hand,
+Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the left
+side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-stand
+at the station. _Fares._--From the station to the cathedral, with from
+one to two passengers, 1 fr.; from three to four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The
+hour, 2 fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to
+the Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifth
+street right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at the
+commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza del
+Duomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the
+Baptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes
+considerably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of
+the 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.
+
+[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, was
+completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind arches
+decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarly
+constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronze
+doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entrance
+by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures in
+delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and various
+other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits,
+and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and of the
+transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. A double row of
+columns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts and
+choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of fine
+marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them are
+semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and black
+marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars are
+by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite each
+other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the
+transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the
+fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the
+ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a
+colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintings
+are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs. Here also
+are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi,
+and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pier
+of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on the
+corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. In
+the right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb
+of S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga
+and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy
+Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but
+have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while
+a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp
+suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are
+synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.
+
+ [Map: Pisa]
+
+[Headnote: LEANING TOWER.]
+
+The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a cylindrical edifice built of
+square blocks of compact marble, and consisting of a well-designed solid
+basement, 159 ft. in circumference, with walls 13 ft. thick, above which
+rise six open arcaded galleries, supported by 200 granite and marble
+columns. Over the sixth arcade rises a round tower 27 ft. high. The
+entire height is 183 ft., the mean diameter of the main portion 52 ft.,
+and the deflection from the perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of
+the cornice, which projects 32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174,
+and finished 1350. The ascent is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide,
+formed in the wall; but not fewer than three are allowed to visit the
+top at the same time. Fee for the party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in one
+of the small houses (No. 14) nearly opposite.
+
+[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--CEMETERY.]
+
+The Baptistery is a circular building, 361½ feet in circumference,
+surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and constructed after the designs of
+Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 and finished towards the end of the
+14th cent. Above the third storey rises the dome, intersected by long
+lines of very prominent fretwork, meeting in a cornice near the top, and
+terminating in a small dome crowned with a statue of St. John the
+Baptist, the titular saint of all such edifices. In the interior eight
+large Sardinian granite columns and four marble piers support twelve
+arches, over which rises the tier of piers and arches which support the
+cupola, within conical, but externally hemispherical. In the centre
+stands an octagon marble font for the baptism of adults, with four
+circular compartments at opposite sides for the baptism of infants. The
+beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da Pisa (1260) is ornamented with
+bas-reliefs, and supported on seven columns. Behind the Baptistery is
+the _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 by the Archbishop Ubaldo.
+It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, and surrounded by a broad
+gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and 62 mullioned arches with
+quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The inner side of the wall is
+covered with paintings in fresco, begun about the year 1300, and
+continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on entering is the monument
+of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right commence
+frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the patron
+saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the second door
+illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the Theban
+wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. Above 38,
+the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of Death,--filling
+those living in pleasure with horror, but those in sorrow with joy. Now
+follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the three chapels, and
+frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension. On
+the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by Puccio Orvieto, 14th
+cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. On the west wall is
+hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be drawn across the mouth
+of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria broke through in 1290,
+burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the chain to Genoa. A few years
+ago, according to the inscription, the Genoese returned it to Pisa. On
+the wall, under the chain, is the monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and,
+a little to the right, a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty
+space within the cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the
+city. It is filled, to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the
+Holy Land by the galleys of Pisa. [Headnote: S. MARIA DELLA SPINA.]
+Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on
+the bank of the Arno (a low square church)--an excellent specimen of the
+Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. The churches of
+St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. Andrea, and St.
+Francisco, contain a few curious and some good paintings, with other
+antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed to contain the bones
+of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, Lanfreducci, Seta, and
+Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice.
+
+Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the
+Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and
+well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian,
+considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next
+page).
+
+ [Map: Leghorn]
+
+[Headnote: LEGHORN. STEAMERS FOR CORSICA.]
+
+Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance
+11¼ miles. +Leghorn+ (pop. 90,000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza del
+Cantiere, the Nord, fronting the harbour; and close by, in the Via
+Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; New York; France; and at No. 59 of the
+same street, Il Giappone. Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi.
+Presbyterian church, No. 3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat
+from the hotel to the steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome and
+well-paved streets; among the best of them is the Via Vittorio Emanuele,
+which, commencing at the head of the harbour from the Piazza dei
+Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza d’Armi, with the
+cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its continuation, on
+the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends to a large
+building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is the grand
+reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by an
+aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing
+“Humphrey Clinker,” and was buried in the English cemetery. Steam-boats
+every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in Sardinia, and for
+Marseilles and Genoa.
+
+
++Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.+
+
+ Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199.
+
+ miles from PISA
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{ }{62}
++PISA.+ The direct line to Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance,
+49 miles. Time, 2 hours and 10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca
+route is _San Giuliano_, with its thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84°
+Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock at the foot of the wooded Monti
+Pisani. The waters “are used internally in chronic hepatic complaints,
+in gravel, and some renal affections; in dysentery, and dyspepsia
+attended with pain and vomiting.” --Madden’s _Health Resorts_. After
+Giuliano, we reach the Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the
+left side of the Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive
+embankments.
+
+
+{15}{47}
++LUCCA+ (pop. 22,000). Each portmanteau taken from the station to the
+cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs await passengers, 1 fr.; portmanteau,
+4 sous.
+
+_Sights._--A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in circumference, and a visit
+to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To the south of Lucca, near the
+station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 arches.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO DUCALE--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
+
+_Hotels:_ Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a first
+class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona,
+near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence
+to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H. Corona.
+Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in the
+Piazza dell’Erba, off the P. Napoleone. Lucca is one of the most ancient
+cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to the Etrurians, but was taken
+from them by the Ligurians, and colonised by the Romans about 170 years
+before the birth of our Lord. The most remarkable event that
+distinguished it in ancient times was the interview which took place
+here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and which attracted to the town
+half the senate and nobility of Rome. After the fall of the Roman
+empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, from one of whose
+race, Azon II., of the house of Este, the royal families of Brunswick
+and England are descended. The town is in the form of the letter O,
+surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable drive. At the
+railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the principal
+sights. One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale,
+now the Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in
+1578, enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the
+post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The
++Picture-Gallery+, open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2,
+although small, contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the
+first room is a Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the
+Creator with Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo,
+in 1515 and 1509. Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the
+Sala da Ballo, painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are
+a Madonna by Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon’s sister
+Elisa; and two ancient pictures on wood--a Nativity, and a Christ with
+Saints. The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were
+occupied by Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by
+Bartolini (1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza
+Napoleone, by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to
+another open space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between
+the two churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera della
+chiesa;” where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_,
+an elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B. Baroni in 1350, and the
+gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the
+Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is
+expected. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martino
+was commenced by Anselmo Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope
+Alexander II., blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England.
+The façade, with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in
+1204, the choir in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of
+the portico are subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on
+the left is a Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. Loftiness
+and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the interior of this
+church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, with the exception
+of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The windows are small and
+filled with modern glass, excepting the three at the eastern end, which
+are by P. Ugolino. All the pictures are covered, excepting on Sundays
+and feast-days, but the custodian can always be found in the sacristy,
+who shows the church for a franc. Commencing at the first altar, right
+hand from main entrance, Nativity, by Passignano; second, Adoration of
+the Magi, P. Zucchero; third, Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth,
+Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, Resurrection. In south transept, west
+side, is the monument to Pietro da Noceto, one of the many admirable
+works by Matteo Civitali, to whose genius the church owes its best
+sculpture, which he contributed during a period of nearly thirty years
+from 1472. The angels on the altar in the Chapel del Sagramento,
+opposite the monument, as well as the whole of the chaste white marble
+altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining the sacramental chapel,
+are by him. On the left side of the high altar is the altar to “Christo
+Liberatori,” by G. Bologna, and adjoining, La Cappella del Santuario,
+where again we find the beautiful handiwork of Civitali displayed on the
+altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna+ which forms the
+reredos of the altar is by Fra Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna
+by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the sacristy, are the two gems in the church.
+Just outside the Cappella del Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilaria
+del Carretto_ by Jacopo della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly
+mutilated, yet a beautiful imitation of the repose of nature transferred
+to statuary. [Headnote: THE TEMPIETTO. S. GIOVANNI. S. FREDIANO.] In the
+north aisle is the +Tempietto+, a small octagonal chapel standing apart,
+in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or 9th cent., said to
+have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of an angel. The
+fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the Duomo represents
+him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times a year. The
+embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure of
+S. Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit opposite,
+are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, founded in the
+12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly relieved by the
+coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone by the western
+corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the Piazza and Church
+of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty façade composed
+of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the same direction
+towards the ramparts, we reach +S. Frediano+, of the 7th cent., with a
+large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just within it, on
+each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an ancient
+circular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved in relief by
+Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is against the wall,
+and is by N. Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The second chapel on the
+right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness of Lucca, in a
+sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east side) is a
+coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall of the
+same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the assumption
+of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel covered
+with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the
+transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had
+been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised
+by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an
+entombment. Opposite is S. Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying by
+prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. Above
+is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God
+surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the
+Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds.
+
+
++The Baths of Lucca.+
+
+ 17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199.
+
+ The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through
+ pleasing scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right
+ side of the river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of
+ the Maddalena, consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of
+ Borgo being disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the
+ bank to the centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built
+ in 1322, is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood
+ uninjured the great flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three
+ hours a height till then unknown, and swept away with irresistible
+ fury all the other bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and
+ embankments. The two villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of
+ the Baths of Lucca are _Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_
+ on the right bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On
+ the hill behind Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By
+ the side of the Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and
+ about 100 feet above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way
+ westward, overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse,
+ and immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the
+ exclusive use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses,
+ is the Bagno Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the
+ Bagno San Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and
+ Pension, next the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the
+ opposite side of the river, in Il Serraglio, are the New York, and
+ the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the river by the right bank,
+ along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is another village, which is
+ also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa+, the most
+ beautifully situated of the three. _Hotels:_ At the entrance of the
+ village, the H. and P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on
+ which the bathing establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion
+ and the Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension
+ price in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_
+ First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to let.
+ From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months.
+
+ The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance.
+ The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very
+ similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse,
+ 85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal
+ ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda
+ and magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter
+ being 15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of
+ La Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but
+ their principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them
+ sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal of
+ the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with more
+ reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the charming
+ walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the greater
+ part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is
+ beautiful--steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks rise
+ on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend their
+ way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points of
+ various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to
+ October.
+
+
+[Headnote: PISTOJA. CATHEDRAL--BAPTISTERY--PAL. MUNICIPALE--S. ANDREA.]
+
+ miles from PISA
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{40½}{21½}
++PISTOJA+ (pop. 13,600). _Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both
+in the Piazza Cino. Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr.;
+portmanteau, 20 c. Next the H. Inghilterra is the church of S. Giovanni,
+erected at the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and
+white marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be
+by Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza
+Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the
+lofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta,” which rises above all the
+other buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, a plain edifice, built
+in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by A. della
+Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and Giovanni
+Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to the
+jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing an
+assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is
+represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. The altar of
+the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid silver. It is
+generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man will uncover it
+for 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 years (1314-1466),
+and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s work of that time in
+Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in its execution. Below
+the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the _Baptistery_, begun
+1339 (by C. di Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate
+layers of black and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle.
+The font is quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the
+13th cent. Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit.
+Adjoining is the Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale
+Civile), constructed in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and
+soffits of the massive arches are covered with the armorial bearings of
+the former mayors of the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are
+still the stone-seats and tables where they sat in judgment. Opposite is
+the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down the street,
+the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured terra-cotta frieze.
+Near the two hotels is the church of _S. Maria dell’ Umilta_, built in
+1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari.
+Near it is _S. Andrea_ (12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the
+entrance door, and in the interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured
+by Giovanni da Pisa, 1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates
+this piece of elaborate sculpture, when it is seen to still greater
+advantage. Between the two last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, with
+such a quantity of frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory,
+that even the visitor on entering feels himself among clouds also. In
+the Piazza Prato is S. Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar
+pieces. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas
+de Weston, Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived
+from the name of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a
+very early date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia,
+B.C. 62, and the precise spot where he is said to have fallen is marked
+by a tower.
+
+Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages at
+Pistoja.
+
+11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is Prato, pop. 13,100.
+_Hotels:_ Giardinetto, Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and
+defended by a castle built by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior
+of the Cathedral are faced with white and green marble in bands. The
+nave has columns of serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by
+Filippo Lippi, and in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365).
+
+
+[Headnote: FLORENCE. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. from
+Turin, 82 m. from Bologna, 134 m. from Piacenza, 196 m. from Rome, and
+60¼ m. from Leghorn.
+
++FLORENCE+, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. _Hotels and Apartments:_ On the
+right or north side of the Arno, the Grand Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la
+Ville; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington; Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran
+Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the Paix, the Russie. All these
+hotels have a south exposure, and are greatly run after in winter.
+Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, according to the room. The following
+charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are situated in the new streets a little
+way back from the Arno, and near the Cascine or Park of Florence
+(north-west side of plan):--Hôtel and Pension Corona d’Italia, Via
+Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and
+Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are
+also furnished apartments at from 250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel
+and Pension Couronne d’Angleterre, Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension
+Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the Universo in the Corso Vitt.
+Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, and charging rather less than
+the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension
+Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of same street, Hôtel Bonciani,
+with front also to the Piazza S. Maria Novella. Near the bridge La Santa
+Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are the Europe and Nord. In the Via
+Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in the Via della Spada the Ville de
+Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in the Piazza S. Maria Novella
+(near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; Bonciani, with furnished
+apartments; and by the side of the station, La Posta and Rebecchino. In
+the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses for Sesto Fiorentino and a
+large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for visiting the sights, and not
+expensive (from 7 to 9 frs. per day), are the H. d’Espagne above the
+Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile d’Italie in the V. Calzaioli. Pension
+Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in
+which also single rooms are let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del
+Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di S. Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension
+Rudolfo, Via della Scala. Furnished apartments all over the town. Just
+outside the Porta Romana, in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments
+cost from 250 to 400 frs. the month. The most expensive as well as the
+most fashionable are those situated on the right bank of the Arno; but
+in the streets a little way back from the Arno apartments can be had for
+less. It is of very great importance in winter to have bedrooms with a
+south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold even on a sunny
+day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very moderate rates in
+restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both in the Via
+Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via Calzaioli,
+between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti and Co., 5
+Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well.
+
+_Protestant Churches._--American Church, 17 Via dei Serragli; American
+Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, 5 Via del Maglio;
+Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini.
+
+_Cab Tariff._--The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 P.M. to 6 A.M.),
+1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c.; every successive
+half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. Omnibuses run
+between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. Fare, 10 c.;
+Sundays, 15 c.
+
+[Headnote: HINTS AND DIRECTIONS.]
+
+Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of the
+Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best
+plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria,
+and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little
+guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and
+statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published in
+English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for
+Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works,
+_Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister and
+Co., London, and volume 3 of _Hare’s Cities of Italy_.
+
+ [Map: Florence]
+
+It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander
+into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure
+by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately,
+are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the
+Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the
+Tribuna (p. 238), containing the concentrated excellence of both
+galleries in painting and antique sculpture. Besides what are in the
+Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures in the Pitti, of which the most
+famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’ Educazione di Giove (see p. 244).
+Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo
+(see p. 265), but the best collection of his works is in the _National
+Museum_ (see p. 261). His David is in the _Accademia delle Belle Arti_
+(see p. 272). In the National Museum is the best collection of sculpture
+by great _Italian Artists_, such as Michael Angelo, G. Bologna, Luca and
+Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano,
+Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in
+the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of
+the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or
+Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but
+particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached
+to St. Lorenzo), S. Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are open
+from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till six.
+The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their
+cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of Del
+Carmine (page 252). Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in
+1240, in the Rucellai chapel of S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best
+frescoes by D. Ghirlandaio on the chancel or recess occupied by the high
+altar in S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best frescoes of A. del Sarto in
+the narthex of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the
+first and second chapels of S. Croce (page 260). Of the palaces the best
+are the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and the
+Palazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view of Florence is from the top of
+the dome; the ascent is very easy. The pleasantest drive, with views, is
+to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the Porta Romana and the Boulevards
+Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo (page 249), studded with
+handsome villas.
+
+[Headnote: PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. LOGGIA DELL’ ORCAGNA. NATIONAL
+LIBRARY.]
+
+At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the _Ponte
+Vecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each side. By
+referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the Pitti
+Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this
+bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S. Maria,
+leading to the +Piazza della Signoria+. From the north-west corner of
+the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the Via Calzaioli, leads
+to the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern corner the street called the
+Borgo de’ Greci leads into the +Piazza Santa Croce+. It is of great
+importance to understand the relative position of these three squares.
+The chief feature of the Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_,
+a fine specimen of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274).
+On either side of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis
+and Philemon, by Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules
+and Cacus, also by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called
+the +Loggia dell’ Orcagna+, from the name of the architect, or dei
+Lanzi, from the name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building.
+It was usual in the early period of the Republic to provide a space near
+the government-house where the people could meet and take part in public
+affairs; and for this purpose this open gallery was built opposite the
+Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. Five steps, running along the
+front, lead up to the platform, covered by a vaulted roof, supported on
+four arches, resting on three columns terminating in beautiful capitals
+of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament
+the entrance. The lion on the left is by F. Vacca, 17th cent.; the
+other, on the right, as well as the six statues of Sabine priestesses,
+along the inner wall, beautiful in attitude and drapery, are antiques,
+and were brought from the Villa Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under
+each arch, stand three separate groups, by celebrated masters of the
+16th cent. To the right is the Rape of the Sabines, by G. Bologna, in
+1583. Originally this group was intended to represent Youth, Manhood,
+and Old Age. To the left the statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head
+of the sorceress Medusa, by B. Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of
+power and animation, but the head and body of the Medusa are represented
+streaming with blood with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith
+and Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of
+Polixena, a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an
+antique group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of
+Patrocles--restored by S. Ricci. Next it is the marble group, by
+G. Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this Piazza is
+also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of Bandinelli), 1571.
+It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over by a statue of
+Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. Adjoining is a
+superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse is admirable.
+To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione (considered to have
+been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining the Loggia dei Lanzi
+are the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi,” the great storehouse of art
+treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along the basement floor,
+extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari (1560-74), ornamented with
+24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On the same side as the Loggia
+is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). On the opposite side, at the second
+door from the end, is the entrance to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six
+doors farther down, the entrance to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, with
+about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be
+had for consultation in the reading-room by writing the name on a slip
+of paper. The National Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the
+Palatine Library collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library
+collected by Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the
+colonnade leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.
+
+
+ [Illustration: Plan of the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries]
+
+[Headnote: UFFIZI GALLERY--VESTIBULES--CORRIDORS.]
+
++Galleria degli Uffizi.+
+
+Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.’s near the
+portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern
+gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous
+collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar
+collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno
+by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by
+the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both
+collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the
+second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at
+the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into
+the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi,
+and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the
+western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go
+wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds,
+fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a
+small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes
+in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to
+enter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. Downstairs,
+outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli gardens.
+
+Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those who
+wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the galleries
+may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first vestibule are
+Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and sacrifices, and
+busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I., Francis I., and of others of
+the Medici. Second vestibule, more Roman statuary, and an inimitable
+Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole expressing admirably the growling
+ire kindling in an irritated animal. Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold,
+spirited, and true to nature. The horse, said to have belonged to the
+Niobes group, does not bear close examination.
+
+We now enter the eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceiling
+painted in arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable
+specimens of ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and
+members of the imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung
+a valuable and interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff
+gilded Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna by
+Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St.
+Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in colour and
+grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, by Giotto, pupil of
+Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. Angelico; No. 24 a
+Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by P. Uccello; and No. 61 a
+Crucifixion by Lippi.
+
+[Headnote: TUSCAN SCHOOL--TRIBUNA.]
+
+From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls where
+the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as is
+shown on the plan, the +Scuola Toscana+, contained in three rooms, and
+consisting of 165 paintings, by M. Albertinelli, A. and C. Allori, B.
+Angelico, M. A. Anselmi. B. Bandinelli, Fra. Bartolommeo, G. Biliverti,
+S. Botticelli, A. Bronzino. F. Cambi, J. Casentino, Cigoli, P. di
+Cosimo, L. di Credi, F. Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P. Francesca, M. A.
+Franciabigio. A. L. Gentil, D. and R. Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, G. S.
+Giovanni, B. Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra F. Lippi. O.
+Marinari, Masaccio, T. Manzuoli, G. da Milano, F. Morandini. G. Pagani,
+M. Pasti, S. Pieri, A. Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G. Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il
+Rosso, G. F. Rustici. V. Salimbeni, C. Salviati, A. del Sarto,
+L. Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R. Vanni, O. Vannini, G. Vasari, Dom.
+Veneziano, A. Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, Volterrano. F. Zucchero.
+The earliest painters are in the inner room. Among the most remarkable
+of them are, B. Angelico, 1294. A. Botticelli, 1286, a large picture,
+and 1289 and 1299. Fra. F. Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297.
+G. da Milano, 1293, in ten compartments. A. Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D.
+Veneziano, 1305.
+
+In the middle hall--Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265;
+Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F. Lippi, 1257 and 1268;
+Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da
+Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture.
+
+First hall--Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, one of
+his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; Leonardo da
+Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine.
+
+[Headnote: THE TRIBUNA.]
+
+Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the +Tribuna+,
+a plain 8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B. Buondelmonti,
+and painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five
+of the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the
+choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F. Barocci, Fra.
+Bartolommeo, A. and L. Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, A. Durer,
+Guercino, L. Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, B. Luini, Mantegna, Michael
+Angelo, L. d’Olanda, P. Perugino, Raphael, G. Reni, Giulio Romano,
+Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck,
+P. Veronese, and D. Volterra. Facing the door is the +Venus de Medici+,
+4 ft. 11 inches high, supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus,
+which, along with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the
+Villa Hadrian, in Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group of
+the Wrestlers, exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn,
+attributed to Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that
+remains of the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael
+Angelo. In the _Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalid
+countenance, and the short neglected hair, express admirably the
+character of a slave, still more plainly written on his coarse hard
+hands and wrinkled brow. Among the paintings, six are by Raphael--all
+gems. 1120 Portrait of a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the
+Fornarina, every hue as perfect as if transferred to the canvas by the
+sun--the expression is pert; 1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well),
+attributed also to Franciabigio, beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in
+the Desert, colouring tawny, but admirable light and shade; 1129 the
+Madonna del Cardellino (nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works,
+painted when he was 22; 1131 Portrait of Julius II., considered one of
+the finest portraits in the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti
+Gallery, and in the National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits
+by Raphael of this impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by
+Michael Angelo. This picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits
+powerful drawing with dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St.
+Francis and St. John, called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del
+Sarto--rich but subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the
+famous recumbent Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by
+Correggio--wonderful colouring.
+
+[Headnote: THE ITALIAN SCHOOL.]
+
+Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the +Tribuna+,
+and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French
+schools, and the collection of gems. +The Italian+, or more properly the
+Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, D. Ambrogi.
+Baroccio, J. Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, Canaletto, A. Caracci, G. da
+Carpi, G. Carpioni, B. Castiglione, M. Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio.
+Domenichino, B. and D. Dossi. C. Ferri, D. Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo,
+L. Giordano, Giorgione, F. Granacci, J. Guercino. J. Ligozzi, B. Luini.
+A. Magnasco, A. Mantegna, L. Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi,
+Moretto da Brescia. Palma (both), G. P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P. Piola,
+C. Procaccino, S. Pulzone. G. Reni, P. Reschi, S. Rosa. E. Savonazzi, J.
+Scarsellino, B. Schidone, F. Solimena. A. Tiarini, Tinelli, Tintoretto,
+Tiziano, A. Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P. Veronese, A. Vicentino.
+B. Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are Guido Reni, 998
+Madonna; Parmigianino, 1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio,
+1016 Child’s Head; A. Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap;
+Caravaggio, 1031 Medusa.
+
+[Headnote: THE DUTCH, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH SCHOOLS.]
+
+_The Dutch School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by
+Berkeyden, Borch, G. Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, Netscher,
+O. Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with Holy Family.
+R. Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, Van der Heyden,
+Van der Werf, Van Kessel.
+
+_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157
+paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of
+Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847
+Luther and Melancthon. C. Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape,
+considered the gem of this department. G. Dow, 786 Schoolmaster.
+A. Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765
+Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin
+Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best
+pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits.
+Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a Madonna.
+
+_The French School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most
+noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of
+Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and
+afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame
+do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680
+Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet.
+
+[Headnote: ROOM OF GEMS.]
+
+_The Room of Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to
+view statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made
+of lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise,
+and gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article,
+a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of
+Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who
+presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of
+Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by
+Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here
+are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into
+the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into
+Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round
+altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth
+extracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the Vatican;
+145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept in the
+little office in the corner of this corridor).
+
+[Headnote: THE VENETIAN SCHOOL--PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS.]
+
++West Corridor+ and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both sides,
+and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later date
+than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the
++Venetian School+, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four
+contain portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind
+the Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins.
+The 82 pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are by
+twenty-five great masters, T. Bassano, G. Bellini, P. Bordone, C.
+Caliari, D. Campagnole, Giorgione, L. Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto,
+Morone, G. Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo,
+A. Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P. Veneziano, C. Veronese,
+P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the immortal
+Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) and of the
+Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I.; of “Flora,” called his
+Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino
+(596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy Family; 609 Battle between the
+Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618
+Sketch of Virgin and Child for his celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at
+Venice. P. Veronese, 589 Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before
+Ahasuerus, and 636 The Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in
+Cana. In the next two rooms are +Portraits of Artists+ of all nations,
+from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338)
+of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall the
+celebrated +Medici Vase+ (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in
+relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke
+Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with
+200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable are--288
+Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 Rubens; 232
+Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; 374, 384,
+and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; 546 Sir
+Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall of
+portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and stairs
+leading to the Pitti Gallery. See page 243. +Sala delle
+Iscrizione.+--The walls are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions,
+arranged in 12 divisions according to the subject. In this room are also
+some very interesting ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso
+of a Faun. _Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite._--The most important piece of
+sculpture here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin,
+a valuable Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering.
+_Cabinet of Cameos._--A very precious collection of ancient and modern
+cameos, statuettes, and enamels, including those presented by Sir
+William Currie in 1863.
+
+[Headnote: THE HALL OF NIOBE.]
+
+_Sala del Baroccio._--Against the walls are beautiful tables in
+pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the room by
+Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall contains 172
+pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in size and
+merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The Virgin
+interceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of Galileo; 191,
+by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s best works, “St.
+Galla Placida.” +Sala della Niobe.+--The hall of Niobe was built in
+1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the famous statues supposed
+to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found near the Porta S. Paolo
+at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her children struck by
+thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the finest and most
+powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are round the cold,
+flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his separate pedestal, the
+illusion of design and composition is not only destroyed but individual
+criticism invited, a test all of them cannot bear. It is believed that
+originally they formed a group on the pediment of a temple. Niobe is
+rather large, nearly nine heads high, but the child she protects is
+without a fault in form. This group is of one piece of marble. All the
+others are in single figures. But the soul and source of all that is
+interesting in these statues is the wonderful figure of the wounded and
+dying youth, represented lying on his back, his legs just crossing each
+other, the left hand reclining on his breast, and his right arm slightly
+raised. As a statue, it commands the highest admiration, and as a chaste
+and powerful picture of death, the keenest sympathy. Behind the statue
+of Niobe is a very large picture by Rubens--Henri IV. at the battle of
+Ivry--a performance of wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite
+it, 147 The entry of Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152
+Honthorst, Fortune-teller.
+
+[Headnote: THE HALL OF BRONZES.]
+
+_Sala dei Bronzi._--In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most
+remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso
+428 found near Leghorn--a torso is the trunk of a statue that has lost
+the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a youth,
+5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in 1530. The
+pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a list of the
+Roman Decurions, dated A.D. 223. _Galleria Feroni._--In this room are
+arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of
+which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop,
+by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by B. Schidone. Outside, in
+the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali Paoli, the Corsican patriot,
+by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the
+master of Claude Lorraine.
+
+
+[Headnote: THE WAY FROM THE UFFIZI TO THE PITTI GALLERIES.]
+
+THE CONNECTING GALLERIES.
+
+Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and
+stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of
+Francesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of
+“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The
+walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are
+covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting
+a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time.
+The corridor on the +Ponte Vecchio+ crossing the Arno is occupied with a
+glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first part of
+the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous portraits
+of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage behind the
+Via Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, executed in the 16th
+and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are those representing
+the festivities at the marriages of Henry II. with Catherine de’ Medici,
+and of Henry IV. with Maria de’ Medici, executed in 1560 after designs
+by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a short stair ascends to a room hung
+with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, or in one colour, by several of
+the old painters. From this another short stair leads to the long narrow
+gallery on the wall of the Boboli gardens. This gallery is hung with
+water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo Ligozzi, in 1695, representing
+with wonderful truthfulness, figures of birds, fishes, and plants. To
+these illustrations of natural history succeeds a series of miniature
+paintings of scenes in the life of our Lord. Now we come to the common
+stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti Gallery, and downwards to the
+door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next the gate leading into the
+Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a large vestibule, with a
+window looking into the gardens. The names of the Sale and Stanze (Halls
+and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room is provided with two of
+these catalogues, one in Italian and another in French. The halls are
+painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and rich tables of
+Florentine mosaic.
+
+
+THE PITTI GALLERY.
+
+The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell’ Illiado_, painted by Sabatelli
+in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity,” by Bartolini.
+Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his
+Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkable
+picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is
+represented by some of his best portraits:--No. 200, Philip II. of
+Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215, Portrait; and 228, the
+Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P.
+Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, S. Rosa, his own Portrait;
+and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod.
+Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. 230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col
+lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--HALLS OF SATURN, JUPITER, MARS, APOLLO.]
+
+_Sala di Saturno._--The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da
+Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:--151, Portrait of Pope
+Julius II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. The others
+by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of (171)
+Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. of England
+and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by Perugino.
+
+_Sala di Giove._--Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of the
+room statue of “Victory,” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables in
+Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of
+Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then
+follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by
+A. del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the lower
+corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials S. A. R. O.
+No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of G. Benci, by Leonardo da
+Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens.
+
+_Sala di Marte._--Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, Rubens,
+Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful paintings.
+The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. 94 is a
+Holy Family, also by him--called the “Impannata” or cloth window. No.
+81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del Sarto. 82,
+Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by Rubens. 96,
+Judith, by C. Allori.
+
+_Sala di Prometeo._--The Mosaic Table in this room, by Giorgi, occupied
+him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo Lippi.
+
+_Sala di Apollo._--Raphael has three portraits in this room:--59 and 61,
+M. and A. Doni; and 63, Leo X. Tiziano has some fine works:--No. 67,
+a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and 54, Aretino, the poet, is
+one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by Murillo. 58, by A. del Sarto,
+Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the same subject
+admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo.
+
+_Sala di Venere_ (Venus).--Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and 15 are two
+most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella Donna, by
+Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L. Cardi (Il Cigoli).
+
+_Galleria Poccetti._--Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon by Canova.
+Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns in oriental
+alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and admirably
+executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by Card.
+Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in ivory,
+amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones.
+
+_Stanza della Giustizia._--Painted by Fedi. The beautiful ebony cabinet
+was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in this room is
+408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir Peter Lely,
+by request of Ferdinand II. of Tuscany.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--ROOMS OF FLORA, ULLISSE, GIOVE.]
+
+_Stanza di Flora._--In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called
+also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the
+Venus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to
+Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II., by
+Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the
+Shepherds, by Tiziano.
+
+_Stanza dei Putti._--Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large picture by
+Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest--Diogenes throwing away his
+drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael.
+
+_Stanza d’ Ullisse._--Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait
+by Rubens of the favourite of James I., George Villiers, Duke of
+Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by
+Ligozzi. 297, Paul III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by Sal.
+Rosa.
+
+_Stanza del Bagno._--This, the bath-room, is tastefully fitted up with a
+mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, and four marble
+statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni.
+
+_Stanza dell’ educazione di Giove._--Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna
+del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti
+Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by
+Velasquez. 248, a “Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra.
+Bartolommeo.
+
+_Stanza della Stufa._--The frescoes on the walls, representing the Four
+Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the nephew of Michael
+Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by
+Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique
+statues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain vase
+with a likeness of Napoleon I., and two justly celebrated bronze statues
+of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by Papi in 1849.
+
+
+THE BOBOLI GARDENS.
+
+Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend to
+the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass
+through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and
+feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the
+office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the
+corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders
+and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses,
+encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more
+like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial
+grotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by G. Bologna;
+and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael Angelo, intended
+for the monument of Julius II. at Rome, and presented to Cosmo I. by
+L. Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is the Amphitheatre; within the
+centre a granite obelisk and a large granite basin from Egypt, but
+brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the palace, near the Porta Romana,
+is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in marble by G. Bologna. In the
+flower-garden “del Cavaliere,” are two more fountains, with monkeys in
+bronze, by the same artist, and a small villa, from the top of which
+there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the highest part of the gardens,
+facing the palace, is a colossal statue of Dovizia (Abundance),
+commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil Dacca.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI PALACE.]
+
+THE PITTI PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in
+1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished
+building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but
+not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659
+feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by
+the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed
+the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and
+Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto
+covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented
+with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in
+bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal Chapel. Above the altar
+is an ivory crucifix by G. Bologna. At the end of the portico, to the
+left, a door opens into the court, in which is the entrance into the
+room containing the splendid _Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Cellini
+and Maso Finiguerra, and ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the
+famous artist in wax, has likewise some of his works here. The state
+apartments are sumptuously furnished.
+
+
+[Headnote: TRIBUNA GALILEO--MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. ANATOMICAL
+PREPARATIONS IN WAX.]
+
+Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the
+house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther up
+the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the
+
+MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE,
+
+in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both open
+on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule is an
+old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, probably by
+Ignazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence by Cosmo I. He
+died in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or Tribuna di Galileo.[*]
+Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the table. The
+statue of him is by A. Costoli. In the niche to the right are his
+telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by himself, and by
+which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the niche on the left
+are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical instruments
+belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 and dissolved
+in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince Leopold de’
+Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating scenes in the
+life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of Galileo, taken
+from the body when it was removed to its present resting-place in the
+church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the excellent and
+comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections are admirably
+arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department contains the
+herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to have collected
+about the year 1563; of P. A. Micheli, collected about the year 1725; of
+Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; of Labillardière, who
+accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New Holland; of
+R. Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the Englishman, P. B.
+Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this museum. But the most
+wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical preparations in wax,
+chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, under the direction of
+Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great works of the great
+painters, they are executed with the most minute care and truthfulness
+to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the cuttle-fish or of
+the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the most delicate
+organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve rooms, entered
+from the shell department, by the door lettered “Ittiologia,” opening
+into the Zootomia.
+
+ [Footnote *: The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any
+ large niche. But the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the
+ semicircular cavity at the extremity of a Roman basilica, where
+ the judges sat. In the early ages of the church some of these
+ buildings were given to the Christians for public worship, who
+ still retained their secular name, and worshipped in them without
+ consecration.]
+
+
+THE HOUSE OF GALILEO,
+
+at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by
+which, in 1536, Charles V. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. An omnibus
+runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side there is a
+cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the omnibus for the
+Certosa (see page 250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three
+broad roads--the lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the
+Certosa; the centre one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del
+Poggio Imperiale; while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first
+of a series of magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble
+terrace the Piazza Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio
+to the Royal Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the
+Instituto della Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascend
+by the Via del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road
+to the right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the
+house in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which
+when blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was
+born in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, is
+indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep
+little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower
+(Torre del Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations.
+It contains several relics of the great astronomer--a telescope, table,
+and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico che si
+conosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by Salvatelli, a smaller
+portrait of him by P. Leoni, 1624. From the farmhouse a steep narrow
+road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza Michelangiolo and
+the Porta Romana.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAN MINIATO.]
+
+THE PIAZZALE MICHELANGIOLO.
+
+There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk or
+drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of S. Miniato.
+They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the Arno, two bridges
+higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are distinctly seen from the
+Lung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on foot is, having crossed
+the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio), walk
+up the left bank of the Arno, passing the Piazza containing the fine
+marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, by L. Bartolini, in 1835,
+and continue the walk up the river till arrival at a square tower in the
+Piazza della Molina, whence commence the ascent by the stairs and road
+the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it from the Porta Romana by the fine
+avenues the Viali Machiavelli and Galileo, bordered by trees and
+handsome villas, disclosing as they wind round the steep sides of the
+hills a succession of ever-varying views. The Piazzale Michelangiolo is
+a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the Arno, commanding a grand
+prospect, and adorned with five statues in bronze, copies by C. Papi of
+Michael Angelo’s famous works. To the right is the Viale Michelangiolo,
+the carriage road leading down to the Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the
+suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). Above the Piazzale, by the convent
+church of San Salvatore del Monte (built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the
++Basilica of San Miniato+, one of the earliest (1013) as well as one of
+the most perfect structures in the Byzantine style. Internally it is 165
+feet long by 70 wide, and is divided longitudinally into aisles by
+pillars of classical design. The façade is faulty. The tower was erected
+in 1519. The floor of the nave is considerably under the level of the
+chancel, which terminates in a semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed
+in 1247, and of the same kind as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behind
+the altar are five small windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble.
+Between the stairs leading up to the chancel is the chapel constructed
+in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie the remains of Gualberto, the founder of
+the church and of the order of Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north
+aisle is the chapel of Cardinal Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by
+B. Rossellino, and the beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca
+della Robbia. On the south side is the Sacristy (built in 1387),
+exquisitely painted in fresco by Spinello Aretino, representing scenes
+in the life of St. Benedict. In the centre of the nave is a curious
+piece of Byzantine pavement, executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the
+crypt, supported on 38 marble columns, several being prolongations of
+those above. Under the altar is the tomb of San Miniato. From the
+terraces of the adjoining cemetery there are splendid views of Florence
+and of the valley of the Arno.
+
+
+THE CERTOSA.
+
+From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at
+the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles
+distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the
+grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading
+up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely
+situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is
+now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars
+of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At
+the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the
+convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal
+to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see
+the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a
+fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento
+style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco
+by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls,
+and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of
+S. Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity of
+the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the mausoleum
+of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs over the
+tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow cloister with eight
+small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, 1560; Cappella del
+Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by Albertinelli, and in
+the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by Stogallo, 1545; then
+the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and bedroom. He was a
+prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are obtained from various
+parts. In passing through the villages women may be seen plaiting
+straw--a standard occupation in Tuscany.
+
+[Headnote: BELLO SGUARDO. MONTE OLIVETO.]
+
++Views.+--From the Porta Romana commences also the road to the Bello
+Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about a mile distant), both commanding
+splendid views of the city, of the valley of the Arno, and of the
+surrounding mountains. Immediately outside the Porta turn to the right,
+and walk by the side of the city wall by the Via Petrarcha till the
+second road on the left, the Via de Casone, by which continue to ascend
+till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello Sguardo. By it
+ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino, where at the
+house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the pavilion of this house;
+fee, ½ fr. To go from this to Monte Oliveto descend to the Via di Bello
+Sguardo, and from a house with a high railing turn to the right by the
+“Via di Monte Oliveto Per S. Vito,” and descend to a large gateway and
+house on the left hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte
+Oliveto, then walk forward past the old convent, now a military
+hospital, to the top of the knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the
+view. Now descend by the Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the
+hill, enters the Via Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta
+S. Frediano, whence an omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If
+preferred, the tour may be commenced at this end, taking the omnibus
+from the Piazza to the Porta.
+
+[Headnote: SANTO SPIRITO. SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.]
+
+SANTO SPIRITO AND SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.--By referring to the plan it
+will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are
+two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous
+frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino Lippi (b.
+1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in which Luther
+preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. The present
+church of the S. Spirito was commenced in 1446 by F. Brunelleschi,
+destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 according to
+Brunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable proportions,
+was erected by B. d’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and 191 at the
+transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of the aisles
+rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of pietra-serena,
+brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church are 38
+semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro Allori,
+Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del Garbio,
+Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, and Cosimo
+Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th chapel from
+entrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left transept, 19th and 20th
+chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. 22d chapel, an
+Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the most remarkable
+work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, a Pieta, by Baccio
+Bigio, a copy of the group by Michael Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. The
+proportions of the dead body of our Lord are admirable, and the ribs,
+loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully marked. Before the choir is a
+screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze and rich marbles, and
+although rather out of place, full of beautiful details. The high altar,
+under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of rare porphyry,
+is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni Caccini. A door
+in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the joint work of San Gallo
+and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. In the sacristy a door
+to the right opens into the cloisters, by A. Parigi, adorned with
+frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and Cascetti.
+
+[Headnote: BRANCACCI CHAPEL.]
+
+The church +Del Carmine+ was erected in 1475, destroyed by fire in 1771,
+and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and Mannaconi. Among the parts which
+escaped destruction in 1771 was the Brancacci chapel, at the end of the
+western or right transept, covered with valuable frescoes, in 12
+compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and Masolino da Panicale. The four
+principal subjects are (left wall) “Christ directing St. Peter to take a
+coin from a fish’s mouth to pay the tribute,” by Masaccio, whose
+portrait is given in the last apostle to the right; “the Restoration to
+Life of the Emperor’s Nephew,” painted by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio.
+On the right wall are-- “St. Peter raising Tabitha,” by Masolino; “the
+Crucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St. Paul before the Proconsul,” by
+Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said to have been studied by
+Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo. Of the eight
+small subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and Eve,” and “St. Peter and St.
+John Healing the Sick by means of their Shadows,” on the left wall; “St.
+Peter Baptising,” and “St. Peter Distributing Alms,” on the right wall,
+are all by Masaccio. “The Visit of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison,” on
+the left wall, and “the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” on the
+right wall, are by Lippi. “Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,”
+and “St. Peter Healing the Cripple,” are ascribed by some to Masolino,
+by others to Masaccio. In the opposite arm of the transept is the
+Corsini chapel, with large marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes
+on the ceiling by Luca Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some
+frescoes discovered in 1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also,
+and with more probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the
+life of St. Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some
+fragments of which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the
+Royal Institution, Liverpool.
+
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--DOME--ASCENT.]
+
+ The Duomo, 252. The Campanile, 255. The Baptistery, 256.
+ Il Bigallo, 257. San Michele, 257. Santa Croce, 258. The National
+ Museum, 261. La Badia, 263. The House of Michael Angelo, 263.
+
+The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria del Fiore was commenced by
+Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone laid on the 8th of September
+1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate ever sent to
+Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. In 1330
+Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea Pisano,
+continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in 1337.
+To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea Orcagna.
+In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and completed it in all
+its essential parts before his death, which took place in 1446. In 1469
+Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper ball and cross. The dome,
+built without timber centrings, consists of two vast vaults, an interior
+and an exterior, both supported by strong ribs at the right angles, and
+surrounded at the base by a strong iron chain. From the floor to the top
+of the dome the height is 300 feet, the lantern 52 more, and to the top
+of the cross other 35. The total height therefore is, from the floor to
+the top of the cross, 387 feet. The circumference of the dome is 466
+feet. Three galleries are carried round the drum. The first is reached
+by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; and the third, which runs round
+the top of the drum and the base of the dome, by other 65 steps. The
+appearance of the church from the first and third galleries is most
+striking. Outside the third gallery commences the cornice gallery of the
+dome. From this part 180 steps (between the two vaults) lead to the top
+of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to the ball the ascent is made
+up through the lantern by 32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in
+marble, and 23 in wood. The number of steps, therefore, from the floor
+into the ball is 528; the only difficult part being the vertical bronze
+bear-like ladder in the lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little
+can be seen (and that little with difficulty) from an aperture in the
+ball. But the view from the gallery at the top of the dome is truly
+magnificent. Florence and neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on
+a map, and as the clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest
+objects being seen distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery
+as early as possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234),
+a practical acquaintance with the topography of the city. To the N.E.,
+by the Piazza Cavour and the stream Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 miles
+distant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on the
+Arno, is the Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of
+trees, on the other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250).
+To the S.E., on the other side of the Arno, are the Piazzale
+Michelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece beyond is
+the Torre del Gallo (page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli
+Gardens and the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be
+found in south sacristy.
+
+The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 feet.
+The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the superficial
+area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area occupied by
+Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone of
+the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole exterior of the church,
+with polished white marble, and dark magnesian serpentine disposed in
+chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement often met with in the
+churches of Italy.
+
+[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO’S LAST WORK.]
+
+In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of the
+nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the
+magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not
+struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively
+unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble
+pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and
+stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the
+narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated
+octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues
+of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and
+Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and the
+reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents
+the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G. Vasari, in 1572, and the
+rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of Queen
+Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular windows,
+which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the twenty-seven
+long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi da Gambassi,
+Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind the altar is
+the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of age), an
+_unfinished Pieta_, a heroic group, large but not colossal, composed of
+four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and an
+Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the melancholy but placid
+countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination of the head lacerated
+by the crown of thorns. The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in the
+sixth room of the National Museum, along with some other works of the
+great sculptor. His greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, see
+page 266. The reliefs in terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of
+the sacristies, are considered amongst the best works of Lucca della
+Robbia. On the pier at the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St.
+James, by Sansovino; and just behind it, on the wall, is a painting by
+Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing Dante (holding in his hands
+a copy of his poems), with a view of Florence in the background, the
+only monument the Republic raised to him they had so unjustly banished.
+In the north transept, covered by the wooden floor, just under the iron
+bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, formed by P. Toscanelli in 1408,
+and repaired by A. Ximines in 1756. The line drawn on the true pavement,
+under the present boarded floor, runs in a direction nearly at right
+angles to the nave (the nave being nearly east and west). It is only
+about 30 feet long, and receives the image of the sun, at and near the
+solstice, in June and July; at other seasons the image is lost on the
+sides of the cupola. The short diameter of the image in July is about 36
+inches. The height of the aperture, through which the ray enters by a
+window of the cupolina, is 277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure;
+so that, as the inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--MONUMENTS--CAMPANILE.]
+
+Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main
+entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood,
+a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at Florence
+in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, is by
+Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble monument
+and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. Cavalcanti. The
+third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. The beautiful
+water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern entrance, in
+front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a sitting posture,
+of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi Pampaloni, in 1830. To
+the right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29, is a stone in the wall,
+bearing the words “Sasso di Dante,” because on it the poet used to sit
+watching the progress of the cathedral from its commencement till 1301,
+when he was compelled to leave the city.
+
+At the southern entrance is the +Campanile del Duomo+, designed and
+commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This
+dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and
+beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys
+of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting
+from the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of 94½
+feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of apostles,
+saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture subjects in bold
+relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, Niccolo Aretino,
+Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent by 414 steps.
+Fee, ½ franc each visitor.
+
+[Headnote: THE BAPTISTERY--GATES--ALTAR.]
+
+Adjoining the cathedral is the church of +San Giovanni+, the baptistery
+of the city, founded in 6th cent., and repaired and restored in 1293 by
+Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal building, 94 ft. in diameter,
+covered by a cupola and lantern built in 1550. Three celebrated bronze
+gates, of admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S.
+side (fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and,
+after twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The
+architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446,
+and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V.
+Danti, in 1571--a work full of expression. The N. gate is by Lorenzo
+Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished (modelled and
+cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty compartments,
+representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three statues above,
+and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, a fellow-pupil of Michael
+Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the eastern end, facing the
+cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael Angelo said was worthy to
+form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel of art was commenced by
+Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and finished, with the exception
+of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when Ghiberti died, and left the
+remainder to be completed by his pupils, among whom were the brothers
+Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, representing as many scenes from
+the Old Testament. In grouping, drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures
+are truly admirable. The perspective is well sustained; the distant
+objects being done in low, the nearer objects in middle, and those close
+upon the eye in high relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by
+Sansovino, who, when he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling;
+but Danti, in 1560, produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a
+century afterwards, are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model.
+
+The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble
+pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes
+of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the
+soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing
+the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G. Gaddie, 13th cent. To the
+right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419),
+by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, placed here in
+1658, and attributed to G. Pisano. The silver altar of the Baptistery is
+kept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata del Duomo” (behind the
+east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen any day from 9 to 12,
+for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long series of years from
+1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents in bold
+relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 ft. long
+by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in 1452,
+weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs.
+
+[Headnote: THE BIGALLO.]
+
+Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the very
+beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to Orcagna,
+enclosed with iron gates by F. Petrucci. The oratory contains an image
+of the Virgin by A. Arnoldo, 1359; and a predella, with paintings, by
+Ghirlandaio.
+
+
+OR SAN MICHELE.
+
+Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del Duomo
+and della Signoria, is the +Or San Michele+, built at first of undressed
+stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or horreum. Having
+been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 under the
+direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the commonwealth. To
+Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to transform the lower
+part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper storey was converted
+into government offices. Round the building, in deep niches, are statues
+in simple attitudes and of noble dignified forms, the result of a decree
+that each trade should bear the expense of furnishing one statue, which
+should be the protector and supporter of its own profession. St. Luke,
+by John of Bologna (good specimen of his style), was executed at the
+expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. Thomas, by Verrochio, for the
+mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by L. Ghiberti, for the guild of
+foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by Donatello, for the butchers. John
+the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a graceful canopy of Robbia-ware,
+for the silk manufacturers. St. George, by Donatello, his noblest work,
+for the armourers. St. James, by N. Banco, for the tanners and furriers.
+St. Mark, by Donatello, for the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by
+Banco, for the blacksmiths and farriers. St. Stephen, by L. Ghiberti,
+for the wool-merchants. St. Matthew, by L. Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for
+the stockbrokers and money-changers. Statues of four canonised
+sculptors, by Banco, for the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by
+Banco, for the hosiers. And inside the church, to the left of the altar
+of St. Anne, a Madonna, by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and
+apothecaries. These statues are considered the finest works of the
+ancient Florentine school. Over the niches are the arms of the
+respective trades, under graceful canopies.
+
+In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high altar,
+by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred picture of
+the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictor
+Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359.” It is
+ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different
+pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The
+small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light
+into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an
+admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less
+admirably to a Fountain.
+
+
+SANTA CROCE.
+
+South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the
+narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in
+the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico
+Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on
+the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa
+Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded
+Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is
+according to the old design of S. Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and owes its
+erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an English
+gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in 1871. The
+interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute Gothic
+arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, are of
+rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread out on
+the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the
+display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire
+length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the
+transepts 128 feet.
+
+[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO--DANTE. MACCHIAVELLI--KETTERICK--COUNTESS OF
+ALBANY.]
+
+Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St.
+Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by
+Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main
+entrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place of
+Michael Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument
+was designed by G. Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael
+Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by B. Lorenzione,
+one of the three. Next follows the great marble monument by S. Ricci, in
+1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in exile at Ravenna in 1321,
+in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri
+(d. 1803), by Canova, in 1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this
+monument is an elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470.
+4th. Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi,
+in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707,
+raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St.
+John and St. Francis, by A. Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone by
+Donatello; and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John
+Ketterick, Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a
+mission from Henry V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument
+to L. Bruni (d. 1444), by B. Rossellini. The Virgin, above, is by
+A. Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of P. A.
+Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. Veneziani. Turning
+to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in London, 1859), and
+a slab on the ground, with an inscription by Boccaccio, in honour of the
+poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the Chapel of the Castellani, with
+frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of Giotto), and reredos by
+Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; at each side sarcophagi
+of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard and St. Francis, by L.
+della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the Countess of Albany,
+widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, 1824; age, 72
+years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the Countess of Albany
+follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos painting by
+Giotto, frescoes by T. Gaddi, and a Pietà by Bandinelli.
+
+ A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the
+ cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the
+ sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from
+ the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes
+ and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of T.
+ Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the extremity of
+ the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance is a
+ shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the altar,
+ admirable specimens of L. Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The large relief
+ is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door to the
+ right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo were
+ kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two
+ mausoleums--one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another
+ attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression.
+
+[Headnote: GIOTTO’S FRESCOES.]
+
+Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) frescoes
+of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second chapel,
+frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte chapel, is, to
+the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory of the wife of
+Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory of their
+daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or the first to
+the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with reredos by A.
+del Sarto. On the walls +Giotto’s best frescoes+, representing the
+stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the
+Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S. Francesco, is
+by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and death
+of San Francesco.
+
+_Chapels of the Choir._--Over the high altar, painting by Andrea
+Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by Agnolo
+Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and the life
+of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much importance,
+excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in fresco by Luigi
+Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with frescoes on the roof,
+painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre Franceschini, surnamed _il
+Volterrano_. This chapel contains five mediocre statues by Francavilla,
+and two large paintings on wood by Alessandro Allori, and is also richly
+decorated with beautiful marbles. In the adjoining chapel, belonging to
+the Bardi family, is a crucifix by Donatello, one of his earliest and
+best works, yet not equal to that of his rival Brunelleschi in S. Maria
+Novella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska
+mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the
+composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. Having arrived at
+the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the north aisle, to
+avoid confusion it is better to return to the main entrance, and walk up
+the north aisle, commencing with the monument and resting-place of
+
+[Headnote: GALILEO--BARTOLINI’S LAST WORK.]
+
+GALILEO GALILEI,
+
+who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaph
+is his bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows
+the monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G. Lani (1770), by
+Spinazzi,--on the column before this monument is a Pietà by A. Bronzino;
+4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat pyramid; 5th, to Vitt.
+Fossombroni, by L. Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to Karolus Marzupinus, the
+learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by D. Settignano, 1450;
+7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to _Raffællo Morghen_, the
+illustrious Neapolitan engraver, a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti.
+Fronting it, on the column, is the monument to L. B. Alberti, the last
+work of Bartolini.
+
+To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the
+cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this
+enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works.
+To the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing
+the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion
+and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco
+of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782.
+The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the
+refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli
+which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo.
+
+
+THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OR BARGELLO.
+
+At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the Piazzas
+Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the +National Museum+, in the Palazzo del
+Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two Dominican
+friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, according to
+the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. When, in the
+17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the seat of the
+head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it was chosen
+for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1 fr. Free on
+feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the escutcheons
+of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground floor are
+filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon cast in
+1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the +Marzocco+, or the +Arms of
+Florence+, a seated lion supporting a shield with its left paw. Ascend
+to the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in the court. It was built
+by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, are two bells, one cast
+in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni in 1670.
+
+[Headnote: SCULPTURE--MICHAEL ANGELO--BOLOGNA--CELLINI.]
+
+_First saloon._--All labelled. Principal objects--By _Michael Angelo_,
+Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an unfinished group
+of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. G. da Bologna,
+Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, illustrating
+Music and its effects, chiefly by L. Robbia and Donatello. _Second
+room._--Furniture and glass ware. Wax group by Zumbo. _Third hall_, the
+audience chamber of the Podestà.--Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled
+ware. _Fourth hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in
+which prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are
+chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east
+wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master
+Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by
+Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is
+thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see
+them must request the door to be opened. _Fifth saloon._--Two triptychs
+by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock crystal by Cellini, Bologna, and
+N. Pisano. Wood carving by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to
+the second floor.) _Saloons 6 and 7._--Sculptures by the best Italian
+artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the
+sixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the
+centre, a Child by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by Bologna. David,
+by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by Pollaiolo, representing the
+Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on the right by Ghiberti, and
+the other on the left by Brunelleschi, prepared for the competition for
+the doors of the Baptistery of Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fine
+ornament by Donatello. At the beginning of the third wall is a large
+bas-relief by V. Dante, representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert;
+and below it, another representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are
+followed by a cabinet full of sketches by the best artists of the 15th
+and 16th cents. After these, the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in
+Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and his model in bronze of the Perseus,
+under the loggia. Ascend now to the second floor by the stair in the
+fifth room. 1st room.--Portraits in fresco by A. Castagno (1450),
+transferred to canvas a few years ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante,
+Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room
+on the right.--Fine display of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and
+Andrea Robbia. Stained glass window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room
+(tower).--Tapestry 17th cent. 4th room (on the left of the
+entrance).--French tapestry and collection of coins. In the next two
+rooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture+, which
+formerly stood in the galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John
+the Baptist, by Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano,
+1507, the Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room
+6, in the centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by
+Sansovino. Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St.
+Peter, by L. Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John
+(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year);
+Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall,
+bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance
+wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a bust
+of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a St. John.
+Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children
+supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna,
+by Verrochio.
+
+[Headnote: FLORENCE. LA BADIA--HOUSE OF MICHAEL ANGELO.]
+
+At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, is
++La Badia+, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines;
+rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by
+Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good
+monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome
+door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the
+right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On
+the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In
+the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni,
+d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of
+Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by G. Vasari,
+and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a Madonna appearing to St. Bernard, by
+F. Lippi.
+
+A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, is
+the house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, a plain building, containing a
+collection of paintings, sculptures, and sundry objects connected with
+Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care of the State by the last member
+of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in 1858. The gallery is open to the
+public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 to 3. Catalogue in Italian or
+French, ½ fr. The collection is contained in seven rooms, some very
+small. In the centre of the first room is a small bust of Michael
+Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at different ages. No. 14,
+Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in relief, by Michael
+Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed terra-cotta figures by the
+Robbias, displaying admirably the fine delicate surface of the enamel
+peculiar to their productions. Amongst those who have distinguished
+themselves in the manufactory of earthenware is Luca della Robbia,
+a Florentine goldsmith and statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and
+human figures in relief, and architectural ornaments of glazed
+earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. The colours are white, blue, green,
+brown, and yellow. The art of making these glazed earthen figures
+invented by Luca was taught by him to his brothers Ottaviano and
+Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his nephew Andrea. The rooms
+to the left contain drawings and plans of Michael Angelo, many being the
+original sketches of his greatest works. First room right, the principal
+room of all, contains the statue of Michael Angelo in a sitting posture,
+by Novelli; and around the room sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in
+his life. The lower six are in grisaille. The ceiling is painted in
+fresco. The next or fourth room contains the family history, illustrated
+by twenty-one fresco paintings. In the small cabinet off this room are,
+among other things, a two-edged sword with the Buonarrotti arms. In the
+fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77,
+a cast in bronze of 74, by Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust of
+Michael Angelo. Sixth room (the Library), large frescoes, representing
+the eminent men of Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room
+off, are Etruscan antiquities.
+
+
+ San Giovannino, 264. San Lorenzo, 264. The Mortuary Chapel. The
+ Sagrestia Nuova, 265. Biblioteca Laurentiana. Etruscan and Egyptian
+ Museum, 267. Santa Maria Novella, 267. Spezeria, 268. See Plan,
+ near station.
+
+[Headnote: SAN LORENZO. ROAD TO THE SAGRESTIA NUOVA. UNDERGROUND
+CHAPEL.]
+
+North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and next
+the Palazzo Riccardi (see page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino,
+rebuilt in the 16th cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life
+of Christ, by Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and
+Ligozzi. A few yards west from San Giovannino is SAN LORENZO, considered
+in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan church of
+Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, when it
+was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and consecrated
+by Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in 1417, during a
+festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs of Florence, it
+was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, and finished by
+Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form of a T, 400 feet
+long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. The aisles are
+lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian columns. The two
+pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in relief, by
+Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by Meucci. At
+the north transept is a monument in white marble by Thorwaldsen to
+Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the mortuary chapel. In
+the south transept is a monument to the memory of a daughter of General
+Moltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar bears the title and age of
+Cosmo I., but his remains repose in a black and white marble tomb in the
+subterranean church. [Headnote: MORTUARY CHAPEL.] Those pressed for time
+should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. Lorenzo, turn
+down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del Canto de’ Nelli,
+to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse of San Lorenzo,
+which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi,” of the Medici
+family, and to the still more famous chapel called the _Sagrestia
+Nuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every
+other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the
+left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. Guides offer their
+assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan alone can unlock
+the doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered with polished
+marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant harmony of
+colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are continued on the
+ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of P. Benvenuti, painted
+in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a monument to a member of the
+Medicean family, from Cosmo I. to Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son,
+G. Gastone (d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the
+crypt or lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello
+near those of his patron Cosmo I., as well as those of 35 other members
+of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of
+Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen
+cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in
+panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these
+princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and
+built by M. Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I., Duke of Tuscany, to
+receive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled “to the door
+of the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised him by the
+Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having fulfilled his
+promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his predecessor, Cosmo I.,
+and had it converted into the burial chapel of the Medicean family.
+[Headnote: SAGRESTIA NUOVA.] From this chapel a short narrow passage
+leads to the +Sagrestia Nuova+, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing
+the monuments and mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and
+brother of Pope Leo X.; and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and
+father of Catherine of Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of
+Moses at Rome, are the greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the
+edifice was conceived by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were
+entrusted in 1521 to Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing.
+A formal square chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble,
+supported by two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone
+called pietra dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the
+same tame, flat style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of
+Giuliano. He is represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand
+gloved and raised. The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which
+seems to yield to the pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the
+countenance. The two statues reclining on the urn represent Day and
+Night. Day is little more than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have
+done more would have weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is
+heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined.
+The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching
+expression--the drooping head and the supporting hand are unrivalled in
+the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The attitude of
+Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding as to have
+acquired for it the title of “il pensiero.” Beneath are the
+personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a
+superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest
+and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right
+limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure
+of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought,
+an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as
+if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the
+altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the
+right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael
+Angelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo.
+
+[Headnote: BIBLIOTHECA LAURENTIANA.]
+
+A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of S. Lorenzo
+leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by Vasari, to the
+Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The books are kept in desks. Open from
+9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, 1 fr. This library was founded by
+Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil
+of the 4th cent. in Roman capitals, not very different in form from the
+letters on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
+small quarto, with notes; the notes written in the 5th cent. by the
+Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, as his signature attests. This is one
+of the most ancient legible manuscript books in Europe of which the
+period is authentic. The manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library,
+with paintings, was said to be of the 4th cent., of the time of
+Constantine. The manuscripts of the middle ages, instead of being in
+Roman capitals, are written in letters resembling in some degree the
+small Roman printed letter now in use; and, at a still later period,
+they are in a running hand. This library also possesses the celebrated
+manuscript of the Pandects, supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in
+the 6th cent., written in capital letters, which vary a little from the
+capitals on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
+large folio book; it was brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. caused an
+edition to be printed from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11th
+cent. is in a running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of
+manuscripts. Many of them are chained to the desks.
+
+[Headnote: ETRUSCAN MUSEUM.]
+
+Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza, No. 144, is
+the Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free on
+Sundays.
+
+_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The
+earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the
+entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that
+in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the
+original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the
+Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits
+were invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase of
+Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near
+Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted
+by Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, Beautiful
+gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From this room a
+corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful bronze
+statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan mirrors.
+_Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of the celebrated
+statues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. _Sixth Room_, Etruscan
+sculpture. Both of the gems of the collection are in this room--_The
+Orator_, a bronze statue above life size, discovered near Lake
+Thrasymene; and an _Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 years
+buried in the earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years
+B.C. From this we enter, by a passage covered with inscriptions, into
+the Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the centre, a Scythian war-chariot
+(the only specimen known), and by the side of it the remains of the
+Egyptian soldier who probably captured the chariot in battle. _Second
+Room_, The most interesting object here is the fresco of the _Last
+Supper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when only twenty-two. On the border of St.
+Thomas’s dress are the date and name. In the last great hall are
+sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, idols, mummies, portraits, and
+tabernacles.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARIA NOVELLA.]
+
+Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral
+and S. Lorenzo, is the church of +Santa Maria Novella+, facing the
+piazza of the same name, adorned with two large obelisks of Serravezza
+Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine lilies in bronze, by G. Bologna,
+1608.
+
+[Headnote: RUCELLAI CHAPEL--GHIRLANDAIO--BRUNELLESCHI.]
+
+This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and
+finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L. Alberti, and erected at
+the expense of G. Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on the frieze,
+“Joannes Orcellarius, 1470.” Affixed to it are gnomonic instruments,
+made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco over the
+principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a pupil of
+Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a
+remarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco
+attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the
+northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or
+right transept, up some steps, is the +Rucellai Chapel+. On the reredos
+of the altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his
+masterpiece. The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high
+altar, are covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D. Ghirlandaio,
+nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by B.
+d’Agnola, and the windows by G. Fiorentino. In the chapel on the left,
+or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden _Crucifix by
+Brunelleschi_. A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up
+some steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A. Orcagna and his
+brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The
+open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where,
+immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin,
+by L. Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by G. Fortini.
+A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens into the cloister called
+the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the walls, by Paolo Uccello,
+1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted in green. Here the keeper,
+for a few sous, opens the door leading into the Cappella degli
+Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by the attendants of
+Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling and the left wall are
+covered with admirably conceived and executed frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi,
+while those on the right wall are by Simone Memmi. Adjoining is the
+Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by Cigoli, Allori, Tito,
+Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th cent., illustrative of
+the history of the Dominicans, with views of Florence in the background.
+At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or pharmacy
+of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a red liquor
+called Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in taste the
+liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. It is also
+made and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains some
+beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by
+Spinello Aretino.
+
+
+ The Santissima Annunziata, 268. San Marco, 270. Picture-Gallery of
+ San Marco, 270. Academy of Fine Arts, 271. Galleria dei Lavori in
+ Pietre Dure, 273. North-east side of Plan.
+
+From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, leads
+straight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima Annunziata_ the
+only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at 12;
+but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 P.M. On the right side of the
+Piazza is the Spedale degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by
+Brunelleschi, and ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with
+pretty terra-cotta figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre
+of the square is an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by
+Bologna, in 1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The +Church
+of the Annunziata+ was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria.
+At the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirable
+frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption
+by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J. Pontormo, 1516, pupil
+of A. del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, 1513;
+a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next picture, an
+Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; a Nativity by
+A. Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del Sarto; Children being
+Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite Filippo Benizzi; a Dead
+Child recalled to life by touching the Bier of Filippo; the Cure of a
+Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by Lightning who had insulted
+Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By Rosselli: Filippo assumes
+the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also the tomb of Andrea del
+Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini.
+
+[Headnote: THE ANNUNZIATA--NARTHEX FRESCOES. SACRED PICTURE.]
+
+The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S. Gallo.
+Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the
+windows are almost all by C. Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle are
+five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short
+transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a
+cupola painted by B. Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right transept is
+the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately behind the
+high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by B. Agnolo (1543), is
+the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who
+constructed this chapel for himself, and ornamented it with some of his
+best works. Under the organ in the second chapel is an Assumption by
+Perugino. In the third chapel is a Crucifixion by Stradano, his best
+work. In the fourth, a copy of Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day,” by
+Allori. Next it, and to the left of the main entrance, is the chapel and
+shrine of the _Annunziata_, built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by
+forty-one silver lamps and one gold lamp glittering among costly
+polished stones. Over the altar is an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro
+Cavallini (d. 1364), said to have been done by angels. This picture is
+shown only once a year; but a duplicate of it, also by Cavallini, is in
+San Marco, on the wall to the right on entering. Over the altar is an
+“Ecce Homo,” by An. del Sarto, in silver. Adjoining is the cloister
+built by S. Pollaiolo. Over the door opening into the church is a “Holy
+Family,” by A. del Sarto, a production in the highest style of
+excellence, called the Madonna del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the
+background seated on a sack. The other fresco paintings in the cloister
+are by Poccetti, A. Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650),
+all displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is
+also the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting the
+Virgin,” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by
+Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARCO--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
+
+By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the
+Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the +Church of S. Marco+
+(standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence with _San Marco_, erected
+in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by Michelozzi. Interior.--Over central
+door a “Crucifixion” by Giotto. First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before
+the Cross by S. di Tito, and an Annunciation by P. Cavallini (covered).
+Second altar, Madonna and Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here
+a small door opens into the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of
+Christ by Novelli, and of S. Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the
+high altar is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito,
+Empoli, Poccetti, and Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of
+S. Antonino, with frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a
+painting by Bronzino. Between the second and third altars on this the
+left side of the church, are the graves of the scholar Pico della
+Mirandola, d. 1494; the poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of
+Poliziano, d. 1494, tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the
+right of the main entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, of
+St. Mark. Open from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15th
+and 16th cent. this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop
+Antonino (d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo
+Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo
+della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in this
+convent. Among the very fine frescoes are--On the door of the church,
+left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,”
+B. Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, “Crucifixion,” with St. Dominic,
+B. Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church opens into the
+refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing food to St.
+Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L. Credi. Above is a
+“Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in the south corner of the
+east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a large fresco of the
+Crucifixion by B. Angelico. A very famous work. The crucifix on the left
+is by B. Montelupo, and the other by his son. The door in the middle of
+the east wall gives access to the picture-gallery in the upper storey.
+At the foot of this stair is a grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo)
+by Ghirlandaio, who has dressed the company in the costume of the
+brotherhood. From this ascend to the first floor to what were the cells
+or rooms of the monks, ranged on each side of a narrow passage
+ornamented with paintings in fresco. At the head of the stair is a very
+beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, and also by him, on the
+opposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the Cross. Opposite the
+Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells of the right
+corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. Benedetto,
+and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, Fra.
+Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, banners
+used for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by Benedetto. In
+the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, Cosmo de’ Medici
+(Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait is by Pontormo,
+“The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the beautiful fresco
+by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by Angelico. In the
+third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an “Adoration” and an
+“Annunciation.” In the fourth, also by him, other two famous pictures on
+wood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the _Coronation of Mary_. Turning
+to the right we find all the cells (as far as that of Savonarola), with
+paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some pupil of Angelico. In the middle of
+this corridor is the beautiful Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of
+B. Angelico. At the end, in a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the
+wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: a Virgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. della
+Robbia; the bust of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by
+Bastianini; and a sketch of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the
+two little cells at the side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved
+some manuscripts, a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him;
+as also his portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the
+Piazza della Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his
+companions. Proceeding along the corridor, in which there are no cells
+on the right for some distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto,
+the best being a “Coronation” in the third cell.
+
+[Headnote: ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS.]
+
+At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via
+Ricasoli, is the entrance to the +Academy of Fine Arts+. Open from 9
+till 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. In
+the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. della
+Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew of
+Robbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and of
+the Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in stucco, to
+the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, left hand,
+a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the large pictures,
+with 124 paintings, by the following artists: M. Albertinelli, A.
+Allori, B. Angelico, Spinello Aretino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti,
+F. Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese,
+A. Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, Credi, Curradi, C. Dolci, I. Empoli, Gen.
+da Fabriano, A. and T. Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto,
+Ligozzi, Fra. F. Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco,
+S. P. Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D. Passignani, Perugino, F. Pesellino, Fra.
+P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C. Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. del
+Sarto, L. Signorelli, G. A. Sogliani, A. Squazelli, Santi di Tito,
+Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the Baptism of Christ,
+by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator was painted by
+Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. 115, by
+Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the unearthly
+expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for many hours
+without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is followed by a
+chamber communicating with the +Tribune+, built in 1875, for the
+celebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael Angelo when 28 years
+of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza della Signoria,
+where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door opens into the
+Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The artists of a
+large number are unknown. The others are by B. Angelico, S. Aretino,
+M. Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, B. Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da
+Bologna, S. Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A. Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio,
+Bicci di Lorenzo, G. Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of the
+small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already
+named, the most important being Fra. and B. Angelico, who, with Sandro
+Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di Credi,
+are better represented here than anywhere else. The most remarkable are
+41, “The Day of Judgment,” by Fra. Angelico. 13, A “Nativity,” by L. di
+Credi; and 18, Portraits of two Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or
+Perugino. Beyond this is a collection of original designs in a room
+called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and
+12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, 10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19,
+Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani.
+
+From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri
+Moderni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six rooms.
+The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello
+Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del
+Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517
+to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a
+good state of preservation.
+
+[Headnote: MOSAICS--GALLERIA DEI LAVORI IN PIETRE DURE.]
+
+Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, is
+the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from 10
+to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases,
+specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the
+manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with
+explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and
+alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli,
+and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for
+sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous
+establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are
+sold here.
+
+
+THE PALACES OF FLORENCE.
+
+The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and gloomy
+aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 to
+4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist of
+coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and
+contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain
+wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets,
+while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near
+the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a
+“cantina,” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through,
+whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those
+that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted
+over this niche “Vino é Olio.” The empty bottle, with the money, having
+been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the
+first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and
+barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with
+bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of
+the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two
+different forms--a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile nearly
+semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the interstice
+between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the palaces is by
+a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court surrounded by an
+arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the highest
+storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are decorated, and
+the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and gilded, and
+contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of thin bricks,
+either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or _spina di pesce_
+fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces contain collections of
+works of art open to the public on certain days. [Headnote: PALAZZO
+VECCHIO.] Of these the best are--first, the +Palazzo Vecchio+, in the
+Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is
+surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an
+excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy
+court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi,
+substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet in
+circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat
+little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa
+Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and
+keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take
+first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber,
+170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540,
+who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling
+illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the
+second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’
+Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The
+lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala
+d’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door
+is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala
+d’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman
+history. It communicates with the Cappella S. Bernardo, beautifully
+painted in imitation of mosaic by R. Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel of St.
+Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de Toledo,
+painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow passage),
+is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an adjoining
+chamber painted by Poccetti.
+
+[Headnote: DANTE’S HOUSE.]
+
+North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the +Via
+S. Martino+, in which is a house with a marble slab over the door,
+bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighieri
+nacque il Divino Poeta.” --_Dante._ He was married to Gemma in
+S. Martino, a humble little church close by, in the +Via dei Magazzini+.
+The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in the Palazzo
+Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni delle Bande
+Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo I.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO STROZZI--CORSINI--RICCARDI.]
+
+In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays from 11
+to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, rings,
+and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery on the
+first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and comfortably
+furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on a card. The
+two most remarkable are--+Portrait+ of one of the ladies Strozzi by
+Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, “La Puttina,” by
+Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the Piazza
+S. Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column of Oriental
+granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to Cosmo I. by Pius IV.
+A short way down the Arno (see plan), at No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the
+Palazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by G. Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The
+collection of paintings, contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on
+Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via
+Parione.
+
+Next to the church S. Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is
+the Prefettura della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the Palazzo
+Riccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the
+Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by
+Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici
+till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row
+of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base,
+rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the
+projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is
+composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the
+sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain
+beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the
+Biblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered with
+most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by
+lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from
+12.30 till 2.
+
+Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the Church
+of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose the
+remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the centre
+of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The frescoes in
+the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by Giovanni and
+Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by Ghirlandaio. A little
+way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti is the Hospital
+S. Giovanni di Dio, founded by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in
+which he lived and died stood on the site of the present No. 21 Borgo
+Ognissanti.
+
+[Headnote: PARK OF FLORENCE--VILLA CAREGGI--PALAZZO TORRIGIANI.]
+
+At the west end of the town, near the +Porta Prato+, is the Cascine or
+Park of Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much
+frequented in the afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between
+the Porta Prato and the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is
+the hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles north from the
+railway station by the Romito road is the Villa Careggi, built by
+Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which he died on August 1, 1464,
+as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th of April 1492. At the Ponte
+alle Grazie, the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio, is the Palazzo
+Torrigiani, built by Baccio d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collection
+of paintings, accompanied with catalogues. Open daily excepting
+Saturdays and Sundays.
+
+
+FIESOLE.
+
+At the east side of the town, by the +Via Alfieri+ or +Pinti+, is the
+Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, the
+latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S. Gallo.
+From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, the
+modern _Fiesole_, 3 miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, on
+the summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to
+Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it
+is an easy walk of about 2½ miles. See the excellent map of the environs
+(Dintorni) of Florence, published by the “Istituto Topografico
+Militare,” 1 fr. Beyond the Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the
+left or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa
+Palmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the
+road ascends between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent
+of S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The church
+contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by Credi; a St.
+Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B. Angelico.
+Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many years
+by Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towards
+the Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole,
+rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesole
+is rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, the
+beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi or
+Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the
+place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. A short way
+beyond, the road enters the Piazza of _Fiesole_ (pop. 11,500. _Inns:_
+Locanda Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and
+stone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S
+Miniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop
+Salutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The
+frescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue
+of St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew.
+In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The
+road passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed
+of huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and
+some of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the
+commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a
+Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of
+S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.
+
+[Headnote: S. SALVI--VENCIGLIATO--SETTIGNANO.]
+
+S. SALVI. VENCIGLIATO. SETTIGNANO.--1¼ mile east from the Porta
+S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is S. Salvi, containing a
+Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the refectory. From S. Salvi northwards
+to the Via Settignano, which follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the
+road to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its
+union with the Frassinaia, is the Castle of Vencigliato, founded in the
+10th cent., 5 miles north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on
+the summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored
+at the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the
+part of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is
+Settignano, the birthplace of Michael Angelo.
+
+Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. The
+wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. The
+straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposed
+for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought by
+the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited straw
+to the hatters.
+
+The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally
+the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an
+inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of
+ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very
+nourishing to those who can digest them.
+
+ Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of
+ Florence. (See Map on page 199.)
+
+ To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence,
+ pop. 11,000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east.
+ Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr.,
+ guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi,
+ about 5½ miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At
+ Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20
+ fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having
+ visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15
+ miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles
+ from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for
+ Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to
+ Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli
+ from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena.
+
+[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO.]
+
+ A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the
+ Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills
+ crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks,
+ intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents
+ tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the
+ sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher.
+ Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton’s
+ description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. lines 131-159, it possesses
+ that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas
+ conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a “woody
+ theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in
+ ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang
+ from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with
+ thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than their tops” an
+ occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on
+ the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled colours mixed,
+ from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged hills, and the
+ wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church
+ and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by
+ a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a
+ winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically
+ situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola
+ decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who
+ excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of
+ imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the
+ last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1
+ hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that
+ shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val
+ d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of
+ the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the
+ villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.
+
+[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA.]
+
+ The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, a Calabrian
+ anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley
+ surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a
+ hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro
+ Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses
+ an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the
+ ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of
+ Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, a lofty rock
+ towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless
+ pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed
+ out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St.
+ Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a
+ covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in
+ which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body,
+ marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion.
+ From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the
+ diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12,000, whence rail either to
+ Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive
+ from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful.
+
++Florence+ is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma,
+Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52
+frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black’s _South France_, East
+half, page 233.
+
+Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto,
+and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d class, 23
+frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, and
+Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. 45 c.; 2d class,
+7 frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale.” To the price given in the
+Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be added.
+
+
+[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI.]
+
++Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.+
+
+ Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. Map, page 199.
+
++Genoa.+--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the
+busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. from Genoa and 2½ m. E.
+from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley
+of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels.
+Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at
+Busalla, 14¼ m. N. from Genoa and 89¼ m. S. from Turin. Busalla is
+situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest
+which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here
+also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35
+in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390
+yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous
+schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been
+hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel
+at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia.
+33½ m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena,
+a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15,
+1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and the
+Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and
+their general killed. Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera,
+and +Pavia+.
+
+[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA.]
+
+47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is +Alessandria+, pop.
+30,000, 234¼ m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna,
+and Pistoja. See Black’s _South France_, East half. See map, page 199.
+
+ At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready.
+ _Hotels:_ L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in
+ compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding
+ 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the
+ modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal
+ statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di
+ Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown,
+ was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually
+ at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the
+ neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June
+ 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first
+ lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From
+ Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the
+ minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34¾ m.
+ E. from Turin, and 68¾ m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives at
+
+[Headnote: ASTI.]
+
+ +Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins),
+ a place of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its
+ sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine
+ Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built
+ upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic
+ columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta
+ Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting
+ on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born
+ here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an
+ architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood
+ are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs.
+
+ From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct
+ over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at
+ Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82½ m. S.
+ (page 183), and to Cuneo, 46½ m. S.W. (page 183).
+
+ Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking
+ the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. died
+ in 1823.
+
+ For +Turin+, see Black’s _South France_, East half. Loop-line to
+ Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. farther west, in
+ the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s _South France_, East half.
+
+
+
+
++Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.+
+
+By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBÉRIEUX, CULOZ,
+AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuation
+of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria
+(page 279).
+
+
+ +Part First.+--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide,
+ 13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second.+--MODANE TO TURIN, 58½ miles.
+ Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.
+
+ _Time-tables._--In England, see under “London to Turin” in the
+ Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway,
+ which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station
+ of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of
+ their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and
+ Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf.
+ For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and
+ from Macon to Turin, map, page 26.
+
+
+PART I.--PARIS TO MODANE.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{ }{431}
++PARIS.+ In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon
+Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café Restaurant.
+A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good restaurant also in the
+station. For the first 274 m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to
+26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At
+Montereau, 49½ m. from Paris (p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not
+the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5
+min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p. 19)
+the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon
+(p. 26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the
+Marseilles line, and goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At
+Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a
+loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W.
+(See map, p. 27; and for description, Black’s _France_, North half).
+5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of
+Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Ambérieu+, 316¼ m. S.E. from Paris,
+and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and
+the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the
+Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with
+Lyon, 32½ m. west. From Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S.
+through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important
+quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhône. Between
+Ambérieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of the
+Jura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.
+Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.
+The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of
+Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to
+Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.
+
+[Headnote: LAGNIEU.]
+
+8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop.
+3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3 m. S.W., on south side of
+Rhône. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and a
+lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily
+approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the
+Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto.
+
+From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after
+St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild and imposing.
+At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the train quits the Albarine
+and traverses a sequestered valley to
+
+[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ.]
+
++Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with
+loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, with
+important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris and 19¼ m.
+N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu.
+
+347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N.
+from Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station,
+771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H.
+Folliet; H. Mémon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here.
+41 m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black’s _North France_, and map p. 26. 4½ m.
+S. from Culoz and 10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft.
+above the sea, on the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by
+row-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view
+of the lake, Pope Celestin was born.
+
+Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to 3 m. wide,
+and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by the steep ridge
+of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat,
+2070 ft., and immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat,
+5302 ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs.,
+after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the
+lake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the
+summits of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain
+of Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about
+4 hrs.
+
+ The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The
+ lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad,
+ carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIX-LES-BAINS. HOTELS. CABS.]
+
+{362}{69}
++AIX-LES-BAINS+, 850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop.
+6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending
+to the railway station. First-class hotels--their pension is from 12 to
+20 frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement.
+On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the
+Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the
+_Hotels:_ *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the end
+of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. Second-class houses: in the parallel
+street, the R. Genève, behind the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand;
+*Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is
+the office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons
+steamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H.
+de l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in
+the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain.
+A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, the
+H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-class
+houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. des Bergues.
+
+On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, a really
+splendid first-class house. Below it is the H. Beau-Site, also a new but
+a smaller first-class house.
+
+The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the
+left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”
+
+Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behind
+the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.
+
+_Cabs or Fiacres._--One-horse cab--3 frs. for the first hour; every
+succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab--for first hour,
+4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; per day, 20 frs. Riding
+horses--two hours, 4 frs. Donkeys--one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs.
+
+[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
+
+The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted up
+for the external application of the water, very little being drunk.
+Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind
+the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½
+fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°,
+114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime,
+magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath
+with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent.,
+with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the
+arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de
+Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome stone stair of
+fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads up
+to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor,
+just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens into what is called the
+Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recently
+restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish
+church, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphur
+springs, situated a little way out of town.
+
+The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above
+the sea, and 45 min. distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Château
+de Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for
+indigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngeal
+affections.
+
+Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral water
+establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all within
+a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromine
+and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from the town
+by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring,
+frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric
+diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+
++Excursions from Aix-les-Bains.+--The steamer on certain days makes the
+tour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief
+is the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two
+men, 9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; Châtillon, 14
+frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than six
+passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake--one horse,
+11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.
+
+The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
+1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft.
+long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The
+interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white
+fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near
+Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of
+Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on
+the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of
+Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the
+right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in
+the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.
+
+About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of the
+lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reach
+it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and
+horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The
+fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the
+village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which
+rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p. 282).
+
+_Other Excursions._--To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft.,
+good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. the
+Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocher
+de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours.
+The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by mule-path;
+there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes,
+3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the defile of the Combes and
+the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft.
+
+[Headnote: GROTTO OF BANGES. LE CHÂTELARD.]
+
++Aix to the Grotto of Banges+, _by Gresy and Cusy_.-- Seat in car there
+and back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty
+waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to
+an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on
+a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On
+the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of
+St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular
+obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de
+Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in
+between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de
+Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance,
+approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.
+
+This road may be continued to +Le Châtelard+, 1¾ hour from the bridge,
+2500 ft. above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This
+is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m. long
+and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and surrounded
+by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the
+manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants,
+of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical
+position, resembles Le Beage (p. 84).
+
+The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which
+separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the
+Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W.,
+and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de
+Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.
+
+At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., whence a
+diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by Brogny,
+Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p. 27).
+
+
++Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.+
+
+ 21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is
+ +Lovagny+, the station to alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges”
+ of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take
+ the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where
+ refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge,
+ which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of
+ Pfäffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an
+ average 72 ft. above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven
+ into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft.
+ apart.
+
+ 3½ m. farther by rail is
+
+ +Annecy+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office;
+ Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake,
+ and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.
+
+ The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the
+ Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times
+ daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages
+ of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28 m. N., on the road to
+ Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320).
+
+ This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the
+ north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in
+ Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of
+ Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of
+ the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier
+ is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph,
+ both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel
+ erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale,
+ his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel.
+
+ The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar
+ in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue
+ Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire,
+ entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which
+ Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel
+ street, behind the Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the
+ Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the
+ garden around the Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains
+ a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis
+ Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748.
+
+ The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the
+ sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of
+ which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft.
+ above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where
+ there are a comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.
+
+ Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east from
+ Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of his
+ life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small
+ square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his last walk
+ on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died
+ two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a little
+ farther south, above the village of Veyrier.
+
+[Headnote: LESCHAUX.]
+
+ South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the
+ birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the
+ hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the
+ right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the
+ south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the
+ entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits
+ passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard.
+ In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is
+ Semnoz, 4148 ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the
+ straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from
+ Annecy, and 14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the
+ village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable
+ inn. Duingt, at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated
+ village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p. 291.)
+
+ 3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny,
+ where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became
+ successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of
+ Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la
+ Caille, 18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge,
+ 212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the
+ torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.
+
+[Headnote: CRUSEILLES.]
+
+ 16½ m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the
+ sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586
+ ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535
+ ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHAMBERY.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{370¾}{60¼}
++CHAMBERY+, pop. 20,000, and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving
+late should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to
+Turin. _Hotels._--Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain.
+France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe,
+near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it
+is the Temple Protestant.
+
++Chambery+ is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. The
+first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station is
+the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre,
+opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. It
+consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with a
+statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne is
+the +Château+, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in
+1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road round
+from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within the
+precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having attached to it one of
+the old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of
+160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by
+36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to the
+Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History Museum is in the
+Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, and
+overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite the tower is the
+Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The three tall
+windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered with
+stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between the
+nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blue
+ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the
+14th, 15th, and 16th cents.
+
+[Headnote: CHURCH OF LEMENC.]
+
+The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de
+Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais
+de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a
+bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on
+the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la
+Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is of
+the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is of the 7th
+cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet in
+diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upper
+Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint
+Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago.
+His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.
+In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of
+Madame de Warrens.
+
+[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU.]
+
+ +Excursions.+--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on
+ the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery
+ by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere
+ cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It
+ contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and
+ hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and
+ of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are
+ his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame’s bedroom, and
+ the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. From the garden the view
+ extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in
+ between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the
+ Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the
+ foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge
+ of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45
+ min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes
+ (p. 284).
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{376}{55}
++LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the
+chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and
+back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by
+a partial landslip of Mt. Granier.
+
+
+{378}{53}
++MONTMÉLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to
+Grenoble, for which change carriages (p. 338).
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY.]
+
+{358¼}{45¾}
++ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its
+station. _Inns:_ At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche;
+Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences
+to Annecy, 28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through
+Faverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice
+on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine
+passes (see p. 321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage
+to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous
+rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other.
+These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the
+pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places
+only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards
+cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be
+seen within 3 m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated
+more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too
+steep and arid.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE.]
+
+{332}{39}
++AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch
+to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen.
+
+
+{409}{22}
++LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc.
+Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon.
+
+
+{414½}{16½}
++SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc;
+Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the
+mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The
+arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452.
+In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the
+saline thermal springs of Echaillon.
+
+
+{421}{10}
++ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the
+sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near
+the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next
+station is La Praz, 6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: MODANE.]
+
+{431}{ }
++MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is
+really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up,
+and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large
+refreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ Hôtel
+International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as
+carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of
+the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and
+Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is
+charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful,
+and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day.
+ The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no
+ part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is
+ reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ per
+ cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and
+ 5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.
+
+ From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than
+ Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a
+ little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.
+
+
+[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES.]
+
++Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.+
+
+ From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pass of Mont Cenis+ to
+ Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the
+ Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by
+ his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans,
+ connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is
+ Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the
+ left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080,
+ and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the
+ Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg,
+ pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560
+ ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc
+ the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are
+ twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft.
+ above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13 m. from
+ Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above
+ the lake, which is 1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good
+ trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a
+ naturalist. 10 m. from Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of
+ Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La
+ Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the
+ descent becomes more rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of
+ Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of
+ Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page
+ 291).
+
+ [Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the
+ Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg.]
+
+
++PART II.--MODANE TO TURIN.+
+
+ See Map of Mont Cenis Railway.
+
+ miles from MODANE
+ miles to TURIN
+
+{ }{58½}
++MODANE.+ At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia
+Railway Company.
+ The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best
+ time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade
+ Ferrate,” 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the
+ railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or
+ Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking
+ carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare.
+ Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.
+
+
+{5}{53½}
++BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della
+Stazione, and in the town the Hôtel de France.
+ Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile
+ country than that above Modane.
+
+
+{12}{46½}
++OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. _Inn:_ Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the
+station.
+ At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by
+ Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte
+ Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius,
+ who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before
+ the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii.
+ cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the
+ road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now
+ Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343).
+
+
+{21¾}{36¾}
++CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views.
+
+
+{25½}{33}
++MEANA+, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having
+traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at
+Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to
+Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil.
+ This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who
+ inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.
+ above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch
+ erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with
+ Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all
+ are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the
+ llth cent.
+
+ 12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the
+ foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the
+ plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa,
+ founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially
+ repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government
+ intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path
+ leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S. Pietro,
+ with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+TURIN,
+
+pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and
+490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe
+Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans.
+When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he
+might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily
+from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of
+Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it
+was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of
+Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S. Giovanni
+Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I.
+so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became
+necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass through
+spacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome
+arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the
+Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets ramifying southwards from
+this.
+
+_Hotels._--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less
+expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of
+the principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams.
+The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side
+of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via
+Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the
+English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by
+Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29
+Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via
+delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive:
+H. *Suisse; H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France
+et Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di
+Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana
+Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange.
+
+_Cabs._--One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1 fr. First
+half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The
+course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1¼ fr. From the central station to any
+part of the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr.
+additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a
+cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway
+carriage, 1 sou.
+
+ [Map: Turin]
+
+Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams run
+from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond the
+suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of the
+steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no more
+than four may occupy one seat.
+
+[Headnote: STATIONS. POST OFFICE. BOOKSELLERS.]
+
+_Stations._--The most important is the +Central Station+,
+a well-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet on
+the departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and Robert
+Stephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome Corso
+Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having at
+the eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western the
+model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and the
+cattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimo
+d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helped
+to throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza
+Carlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to the
+Piazza Castello, by the Piazza S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze
+equestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele
+Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in
+1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the
+west end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello
+by the Via Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of
+plan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza
+dello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in
+the shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn
+granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white
+marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter
+make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni,
+and Grandi.
+
+_Post and telegraph offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the
+side of the Palazzo Carignano (p. 297). Stamps are sold at all the
+tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P. Castello, and connected
+with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and bordered
+on both sides with well-stocked shops.
+
+_Booksellers._--For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For
+guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via di Po.
+
+Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal
+streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in
+all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The
+same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.
+
+_Theatres._--See list on plan. A short way east from the central
+station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in
+1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio
+Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue,
+a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas.
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
+
+_Sights._--The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the
+“Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the Piazza Carignano and
+another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is the
+Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogical
+collections. The white marble statue in front represents the
+philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house
+opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte
+Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi mori
+il 6 Giugno 1861.” The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria
+Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal
+Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni.
+A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All the
+above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The only
+one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side
+street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram from
+the Piazza Castello.
+
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO DELL’ ACCADEMIA. MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.]
+
++The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.+
+
+The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was
+built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast
+earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and
+cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more
+massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second
+story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen
+rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days free,
+when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in two
+halls. +Hall 1.+ Left. In the centre, against the wall, under an
+inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of the
+collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, Rameses II., 1388 B.C.
+On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of
+Amenophis II., 1565 B.C., and on his left a small black basalt statue of
+Amenophis II., the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting
+posture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At
+the head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II.,
+in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From this a room
+ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts,
+friezes, vases, etc.
+
+Parallel to Hall 1 is +Hall 2+. At the head of this hall, in a sitting
+posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 B.C., who was
+one of the most powerful of the Pharaohs.
+
+Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in three
+large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left,
+is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a table
+covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B.C.
+A little farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case,
+No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in.
+wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of
+Hadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads
+to the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a
+colossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily
+work the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found
+at Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician
+terracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient
+iron ornaments, lamps, etc.
+
+The +Centre Hall+ contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi,
+mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by the
+Israelites.
+
+In the +Third Hall+ are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No.
+4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, +The Book of the
+Dead+, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain vignettes.
+Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of
++Manetho+, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt down
+to the 19th dynasty.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+In the second story is the +Picture Gallery+. All the paintings are
+labelled. In +Room 1+ are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy,
+and battles in which they were engaged. +Room 2.+ In this room are
+excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St.
+Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descent
+from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. +Rooms 3+ and +4+.
+Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90,
+a Landscape. +Room 5.+ Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16th
+cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127
+and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, Cosimo I. de
+Medici. +Room 6.+ J. da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari
+(Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting gifts to Solomon;
+A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J. Robusti (Il
+Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. +Room 7.+ Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni;
+Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8.+ Enamels and paintings on
+porcelain by Constantin of Geneva. +Room 9.+ A small room entirely
+filled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9
+and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. +Room 10.+ Continuation
+of the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232,
+Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese,
+234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236,
+Cupids; G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. Barbieri
+(Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Return
+of Prodigal Son. +Room 11.+ A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal
+Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements;
+S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce,
+276, Head of Madonna; B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old
+Bridge across the Po. +Room 12.+ Flemish and German school: Acken
+(Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van
+des Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and
+Gentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of
+England; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of
+his apotheosis of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. +Room 13.+
+Containing the gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child,
+and Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri (Guercino),
+357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of the
+Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, the
+figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of the
+Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family;
+D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost;
+Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and child
+in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P. Potter, 377,
+*Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. +Room
+14.+ Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398,
+Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416,
+Resurrection of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife;
+Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman.
++Room 15.+ French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483,
+Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Catalogues
+sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.
+
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO CARIGNANO.]
+
++Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.+
+
+Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is the
+Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick;
+but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing than
+those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the
+façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the
+words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and spacious
+court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting the
+Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by
+Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built
+in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also
+p. 293.) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological and
+mineralogical collections. Open daily, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days
+free.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAL ARMOURY.]
+
++Royal Armoury.+
+
+No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. On other
+days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of great
+interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filled
+chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first room
+is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo Alberto.
+Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. In
+the large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At the
+head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed oval
+shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive gold
+thread. On five medallions are represented, in _alto-relievo_, scenes
+from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school of
+Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16th
+cent., and was presented to the university of Turin by the Princess
+Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword worn
+by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of Charles V., and some
+beautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at
+the end of this hall opens into the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing
+30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a complete
+series of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000
+medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca del
+Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., numerous autographs, engravings and
+drawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must be
+obtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of the
+palace-gardens. At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro
+Regio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for
+2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions.
+In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a
+plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza
+Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance,
+turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass
+door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a niche
+at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse in
+marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights of
+narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will be
+found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, 2 frs. After the guardroom
+succeeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and rich
+furniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The room
+called Maria Theresa’s contains some fine china vases.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAL PALACE. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+
++The Cathedral.+
+
+Adjoining the western end of the palace is the +Cathedral San Giovanni
+Battista+. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family.
+Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, is
+the +Cappella del Sudario+ (open till 9 A.M.), a circular chapel,
+separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in
+1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa,
+near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the
+statues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and
+eight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns
+of the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six
+arches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six
+smaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is
+composed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising
+from the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light
+in such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the
+appearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold
+and silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it
+at the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud
+(Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when
+he laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble
+monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy--Em. Filiberto (ob.
+1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; and
+Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince,
+the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the
+lovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob.
+1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the upper
+corridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is +San Lorenzo+,
+designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but
+it is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches.
+
+
+[Headnote: THE CASTELLO.]
+
++The Castello.+
+
+The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was
+erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it
+became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II.,
+Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of whom
+it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat of
+government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the great
+hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, and
+another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who
+here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.
+
+
+[Headnote: MUSEO CIVICO.]
+
++Museo Civico.+
+
+Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3,
+1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. of
+celebrated Piedmontese. +2.+ Water-colours, representing landscapes and
+historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblong
+chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater diameter, and 2
+ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion’s
+head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glass
+frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, a vase, and two
+flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presented
+in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the United
+States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Geneva
+arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution by
+his widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, it
+needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen.
+
+The rooms from +4+ to +11+ contain modern oil-paintings, some very good,
+and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among the
+best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion of
+Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second story.--Room +12+, Embroidery;
++13+, Miniatures and illustrated MSS.; +14+, Iron work; +15+, Carving
+in wood and ivory--notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; +16+, Glass and
+majolica; +17+, Italian porcelain; +18+, Busts; +19+, Small
+oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glass
+from 1300; +21+, Egyptian pottery; +22+, Pottery and stone age.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIA DI PO. UNIVERSITY. MADRE DI DIO.]
+
++The Via di Po.+
+
+The finest of the streets is the +Via di Po+, which extends from the
+Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio
+Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares,
+as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and
+lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in
+all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the
+pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both
+sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the
+University, built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by
+the Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and
+directed by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4,
+contains 200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman
+bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the
+Via di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia
+Albertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti.
+Open daily. Apply to the custodi.
+
+The +Piazza Vittorio Emanuele+ is 394 yards long and 121½ wide. In
+front, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the Gran
+Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, by
+Bansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin
+after the fall of Napoleon. A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte)
+is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road
+up is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately
+above the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina,
+built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by
+one of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name,
+“The Queen’s Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education
+of children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge,
+is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four
+pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor
+Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a
+government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of
+minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces,
+are topographically arranged. The +Botanical Garden+ belonging to the
+university is also here.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONUMENT TO CAVOUR.]
+
++Monuments.+
+
+In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello,
+is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for which he
+received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in
+1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in
+bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.
+Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the
+words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See p. 294.) The climate of
+Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west
+is the Piazza S. Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto
+(see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable,
+almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother
+of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead
+the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor
+animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems
+about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering.
+
+A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is
+the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di
+Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected
+in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the
+celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor
+Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and
+Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group
+representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to
+this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted
+with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From
+this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing by
+on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S. Domenico,
+in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the
+Virgin by Guercino.
+
+[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA.]
+
+Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La
+Consolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three
+churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a
+miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining
+walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances
+effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious
+Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria
+Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.
+Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended
+worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the
+square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected
+in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.
+
+In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72
+ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the
+ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns
+which contributed to the monument.
+
+[Headnote: CEMETERY.]
+
+Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo
+Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not
+worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.
+
+A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the
+citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the
+monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang
+a mine at the cost of his own life.
+
+
+[Headnote: LA SUPERGA.]
+
++La Superga.+
+
+Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the
+time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half
+an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number,
+the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram
+runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by the
+western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends by
+the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent
+commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and
+opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards,
+the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga
+station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious
+restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand,
+for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is
+probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the
+main road to Turin.
+
+The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.
+above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was
+commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to
+fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the
+French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the
+duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.
+
+Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be
+found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first
+hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.
+Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white
+marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are
+worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo
+Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., 1701-1773;
+towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue;
+at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, 1666-1732. In an
+adjoining vault children under seven are buried.
+
+[Headnote: VIEWS.]
+
+From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery
+outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the gallery
+round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well
+seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the
+church.
+
+The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the
+outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of
+Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is
+bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and
+Mont Blanc on the other.
+
+[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES.]
+
+Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8
+inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into
+milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la
+Piedmontese” or “à la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine,
+make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable
+aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of
+Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red wine
+with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and the
+Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long
+and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them
+is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very
+many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal
+of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important
+silk mills.
+
+Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to
+Genoa, 103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). Turin
+to Savona, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p. 183,
+and map p. 27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria,
+Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map
+p. 199).
+
+
+THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.
+
+ (See accompanying Map.)
+
+The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid
+trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.
+
+The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼
+miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. from
+Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a steam tram
+runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second
+Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is
+near the railway station.
+
+Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S.,
+2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This tram
+station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.
+
+The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the
+highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt.
+They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run
+neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.
+
+Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail from
+Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tré Limoni d’Oro. On
+one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the
+inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the
+river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the
+hill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see p. 184).
+
+The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of
+Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long from W.
+to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the
+isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.
+They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848
+procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were
+confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread
+themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year
+to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories
+have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx
+of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which
+up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a
+larger population of Romanists.
+
+ [Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Passes between France and Italy]
+
+These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat,
+barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows of vines
+on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple,
+pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded
+mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only
+high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between
+the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625
+ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft.,
+a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ Agnello or
+the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.
+
+[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS.]
+
+The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of
+the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the
+French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as there was constant communication
+between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a
+great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church,
+which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines
+had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome;
+albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer
+to God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of
+priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal and
+venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all
+these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin
+adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people,
+existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in
+1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from “valle densa,”
+contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first
+serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation
+of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée IX., Duke of Savoy. By
+her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the
+Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics
+were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly
+obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a
+complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French
+Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.
+
+[Headnote: TORRE-PÈLLICE.]
+
++Torre-Pèllice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable,
+is situated on the Pèllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by
+rail from Turin, 10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of
+Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a
+considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del
+Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village,
+with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several elementary Protestant
+schools.
+
+Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley
+enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the
+Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for
+girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph
+office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the
+Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and
+dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many
+Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made
+the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.
+
+The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is drunk
+in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of the
+Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360
+ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools.
+Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.
+
+[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX.]
+
++Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des
+Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs.
+walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ hrs. walking, pop. 1520,
+Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular.
+Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge,
+having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718
+ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station,
+5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation
+may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col,
+7576 ft., 17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding
+a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly
+level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track
+joins the char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta,
+Ristolas, Abriés, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see
+p. 344, and map p. 304.)
+
+
+PINEROLO.
+
+23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is
+Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d’Or; Campana; Cannon
+d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza
+d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the
+chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various
+colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music.
+The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for
+girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary.
+The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of
+dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club.
+_Cabs_--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive
+half-hour, 1 fr.
+
+[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D’ABRIÉS.]
+
+Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to
+Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam
+tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. +Perosa+, 2015 ft., pop. 2400,
+_Inn:_ H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction
+with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop.
+760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.
+
++Perosa to Mont Dauphin.+--There is a post-road up the Germanasca and
+down the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by
+Perrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from Perosa and on the S. side
+of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin. (For Mont
+Dauphin, see p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop.
+560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello.
+From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and
+passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the
+Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the
+Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from
+Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to
+Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba
+separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and
+continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés,
+8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali,
+and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs.
+(For Abriés and Mont Dauphin, see p. 344, and map, p. 304.)
+
+[Headnote: FENESTRELLE. COL DE SESTRIÈRES.]
+
++Perosa to Cesanne+, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle,
+Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is +Fenestrelle+, pop. 1120,
+_Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italian
+fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where the
+valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4½ m. is Sestrières,
+“whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrières, a nearly
+level plain 2 m. long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. The
+descent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossed
+to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from Sestrières” (Ball’s _Alps_, p. 36). (For
+Cesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under Briançon, p. 333, and map
+p. 304.)
+
+
+SALUZZO.
+
++Saluzzo+ is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam tram from
+the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam tram, passing
+Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14 m.
+W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on
+the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., _Inn:_ Lion d’Or.
+
+The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and the
+Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to
+Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble
+statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854.
+Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town of
+considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting various
+places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.
+
+[Headnote: PAESANA. CRISSOLO. COL DE LA TRAVERSETTE.]
+
++Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin+, 65½ m. W. by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la
+Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in the
+evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., with two fair inns, passing
+Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes very
+picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing.
+After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road reaches the sanctuary of
+San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8 m. from Paesana,
+4374 ft.
+ Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the
+ Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the
+ opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave,
+ Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly
+ after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases--the
+ +Pian Fiorenza+, 6034 ft., and the +Pian del Ré+, 6625 ft., containing
+ in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. A little to the S.W.
+ of the Pian del Ré is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la
+ Traversette leads N.W. from the Pian del Ré through a hollow covered
+ with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent
+ commences. About 300 ft. below the crest and 9564 ft. above the sea
+ is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by
+ Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs.
+ ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is
+ by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is
+ La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p. 344, and
+ map p. 304; also Ball’s _Alps_, p. 22.)
+
+
+CUNEO.
+
+54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is
++Cuneo+, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H. Barra di Ferro; Albergo di
+Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S.W.; also
+to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. 182 and 279.)
+
+ Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte,
+ Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier
+ village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to
+ Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)
+
+
++Turin to Florence.+
+
+ 291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and
+ Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and
+ through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London,
+ Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d.
+
+ miles from TURIN
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{ }{291}
++TURIN.+ (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p. 280, and
+map p. 199.)
+
+
+{81}{210}
++VOGHERA+, pop. 10,000, on the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H. Italia. Branch to
+Pavia, 17 m. N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station,
+Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th
+June 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days.
+
+
+[Headnote: PIACENZA. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+{117}{174}
++PIACENZA+, pop. 36,000, on the Po. _Hotels:_ S. Marco; Italia; Croce
+Bianca. _Cabs_--the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For the
+first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. 80 c.
+
+In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ Cavalli,
+from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and his
+son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S. Francesco, and on the
+other the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque +Palazzo
+del Comune+, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market.
+The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows.
+The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the +Cathedral+
+(1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior the
+arches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d
+altar is a picture, by A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the
+4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an
+altar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling
+frescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The
+Coronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The +Cupola+ is divided into
+eight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figures
+of prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below
+are four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt
+under the church rests on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former
+cathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The
+curious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relics
+of the earlier edifice. At the W. end of the town is +Sa. Maria di
+Campagna+, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On the left of the chief
+entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1st
+chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and the
+Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the
+“Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being portraits of the Pordenone
+family, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St.
+Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments of
+the cupola; those in the pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly
+decorated church is _S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic
+atrium. Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto.
+
+The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 by
+Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now the
+Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza is
+the site of _Velleia_, a town which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the
+3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which have
+been deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanations
+from the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on the
+application of a flame.
+
+
+[Headnote: PARMA--MUSEUM.]
+
+{153}{138}
++PARMA+, pop. 46,000, on the Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; Croce
+Bianca; Leone d’Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered
+by the Romans 183 B.C., is a neat clean town of modern appearance,
+surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is the
+Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo Farnese_, a large
+unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind the
+Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintings
+belonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum of
+Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre,
+now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of Duke
+Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles and
+grand public entertainments.
+
+_The Museum of Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms,
+of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia
+and Rome. Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in
+1st room. In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the
+“Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to the
+support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria Louisa,
+the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the same
+staircase is the _Library_, with 150,000 volumes, and some thousands of
+MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of which
+is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--CORREGGIO.]
+
+_The Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, and
+is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but is
+remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In
+selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters
+alphabetically to facilitate reference.
+
+ _Annibal Caracci._--Pietá. _Lodovico Caracci._--Funeral of the Virgin;
+ the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da
+ Conegliano._--Two very good pictures. (+Correggio.+)--1. The Madonna
+ della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna
+ della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. _The Madonna
+ with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight
+ effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden--this is Correggio’s
+ best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on
+ canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art.
+ The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that
+ covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and
+ St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully
+ treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some
+ critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early
+ production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the
+ walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi
+ the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) _Albert Durer._--Man
+ with a Skull. _Francesco Francia._--Descent from the Cross; the Virgin
+ enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most
+ charming). _Garofalo._--Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a
+ landscape below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni._--A Singing party.
+ _Murillo._--St. Jerome. _Parmegianino._--The Marriage of St. Catharine
+ (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with
+ a music book (marked “incerto” on the frame). _Fra Paola da
+ Pistoia._--Adoration of Magi. _Pordenone._--Portrait of a Man with an
+ open book. _Raffaello(?)._--Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and
+ St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a
+ work of Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa._--Landscape with Cattle. _Lionello
+ Spada._--Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine.
+ _Spagnoletto._--Twelve pictures of Saints. _B. Schidone._--The
+ Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John.
+ _Vandyck._--Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady.
+ _Velasquez._--Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other
+ portraits ascribed to him). _L. da Vinci._--Sketch of a Female Head.
+ _Zuccarelli._--River Scene.
+
+_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other side of
+the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called the
+Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style;
+but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords a
+pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo di
+Giardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of the town, near
+the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is planted
+with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town’s-people,
+both in carriages and on foot.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
+
+By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the
++Cathedral+, a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and
+14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281.
+In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an
+elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted
+by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the
+great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one
+of Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ (1526-30), with
+frescoes representing the _Assumption of the Virgin_, but they are in a
+ruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son of
+Correggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini.
+In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at the
+foot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a
+poor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he was
+archdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported by
+thirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes of
+the 14th century, and intarsias by L. Biancho.
+
+[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--S. GIOVANNI.]
+
+The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with four
+deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers of
+open galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, the
+pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below,
+combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its class
+in Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rude
+sculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting--old, but not of much
+value. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble,
+and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protected
+from the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which the
+Parmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, and
+supported by a marble lion. +S. Giovanni Evangelista+ (1510), a church
+standing near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the
+_frescoes painted by Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; they
+represent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badly
+lighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in the
+cathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists
+and the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory
+above. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of
+the sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a
+fresco of St. John. In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal
+entrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of
+Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by
+Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the
+left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at
+Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the
+entrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four subjects);
+and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with his
+Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the
+adjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of two
+children by Correggio.
+
+[Headnote: S. PAOLO--CORREGGIO.]
+
+Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della Steccata_,
+from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are by
+Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and the
+Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar a
+Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. The
+wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good Madonna in
+corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is the
+church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent of
+S. Paolo+, now a school. In this small building are the best preserved
+works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the walls
+and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, or
+Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower or
+piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charmingly
+portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is painted
+over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures in
+grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian is
+generally to be found in the picture-gallery.
+
+The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan,
+Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used
+in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is +Reggio
+Emilia+ (pop. 24,000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_--80 c. the
+course; 1½ fr. the hour. _Sights_--Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto,
+born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went through sixteen editions in
+the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, the birthplace of the great
+painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa and
+back, 14 frs.
+
+
+[Headnote: MODENA. CATHEDRAL--DUCAL PALACE.]
+
+{185¼}{105¾}
++MODENA+, pop. 31,000. _Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their
+omnibuses await the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr.
+50 c. the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the hour.
+
+Modena (_Mutina_, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, is a
+clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which serve
+the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile.
+A canal connects the town with the Panaro, a tributary of the Po, by
+which means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained.
+
+The +Cathedral+, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Its
+exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal façade
+is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. On
+the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columns
+resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low,
+and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for the
+sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At the
+entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-size
+figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing the
+Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as if
+they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpit
+with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious old
+bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side of
+the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in the
+male line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of the finest in Italy, 315
+feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the name
+of Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. At
+the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the +Ducal Palace+, an
+immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls in
+the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open daily
+from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures,
+amongst which, though there are no _chefs d’œuvre_, are many good ones.
+The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards the
+end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including five
+Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and the
+Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. In
+two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by the
+old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto’s
+masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked,
+but which the custode will open on application, are some interesting
+cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, another of amber,
+a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory,
+majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a “Presepio,” with
+numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver.
+
+The _Library_, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains about
+100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS.
+placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Roman
+and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck at
+Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near the gate of that
+name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stone
+obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below the
+surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval tombs. In the
+church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of the
+Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this artist’s works.
+
+The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is open
+to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOLOGNA.]
+
+{208¼}{82¾}
++BOLOGNA+, pop. 91,000. _Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera;
+del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni;
+Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_--one horse,
+the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway
+station, without luggage, 1 fr.
+
+Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plain
+near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting is
+called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b.
+1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) and
+Agostino, a man of erudition, who furnished the general plan of the
+pictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d.
+1642), Domenichino (b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G.
+Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, d. 1666),
+Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b.
+1628, d. 1719); beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the
+various churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the
+“_Accademia delle Belle Arti_,” situated at the north-east end of the
+town, near the Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of
+the first floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the
+artists, and is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St.
+Cecilia, by Raphael.
+
+ The other best works are:--12. _Guercino_.--St. William; 13, St.
+ Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. 26.
+ _Bugiardini_.--Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino
+ Caracci_.--Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest paintings;
+ 35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_.--Virgin and Child, with Angels
+ and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. _Lodovico
+ Caracci_.--Assumption; 42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the
+ Virgin and Child; 43. Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46.
+ St. John the Baptist; 47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M.
+ Desubleo_.--Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75.
+ _Lavinia Fontana_.--St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. Francia_.--Virgin
+ and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. Annunciation; 80. Virgin and
+ Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are several other unnumbered
+ pictures by this master on frames. 84. _Giacomo Francia_.--Virgin and
+ Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. 89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an
+ imitator of Raffaello).--Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da
+ Cremona_--Descent from the Cross.. 134. _Guido_.--Madonna with the
+ Protectors of Bologna; 135. Massacre of the Innocents; 136.
+ Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of
+ the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried in processions); 139.
+ Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. 152. _Raphael_.--ST.
+ CECILIA, with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the
+ instruments of secular music lie broken on the ground). This
+ celebrated composition, painted in 1515, is well known from copies and
+ engravings. 175. _Elisabetta Sirani_.--St. Anthony of Padua; 176.
+ Madonna. 181. _L. Spada_.--Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183.
+ _Tiarini_.--St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. _Perugino_.--Virgin and
+ Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle Vite_.--Magdalene. 206.
+ _Domenichino_.--Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary;
+ 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona (the same subject as that
+ treated by Titian in a picture lately burnt at Venice). 212.
+ _Unknown_.--Sleeping Child. 291. _Desubleo_.--St. John the Baptist.
+ 292. _Innocenzio da Imola_.--Virgin and Saints. 294.
+ _Bugiardini_.--Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da Foligno_).--Virgin
+ and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius IX.)
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--UNIVERSITY.]
+
+In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour
+(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures.
+A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library.
+
+Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430
+students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous,
+have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism,
+Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe Mezzofanti (d.
+1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two languages. From the tower
+is a good view of the town. Attached to the University is a Museum of
+Antiquities and a Library. The Geological Museum is in a separate
+building. From the University, walking towards the leaning towers, we
+pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see plan), the oratory of
+St. Cecilia, the church of S. Giacomo, and (14) the Palazzo
+Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind
+of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.
+
+ [Map: Bologna]
+
+[Headnote: S. GIACOMO.]
+
+_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently restored. In
+the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, the Virgin on a
+Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in the
+8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, three
+pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino
+Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the end of
+the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, with
+Francesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna,” the lunette above by Giacomo
+Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of the church,
+contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s Presentation in
+the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.
+
+[Headnote: THE TWO TOWERS.]
+
+In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia and
+St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. During
+the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the
+commencement of the Strada Donato are the +Two Towers+ (28 in plan),
+seen from a great distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_,
+commenced in 1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and
+ascended by a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence
+there is the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in
+1110, is 139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers,
+the Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with,
+on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo del’
+Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal.
+Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various
+buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned
+with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.
+
+[Headnote: S. PETRONIO.]
+
++S. Petronio+, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, and
+in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are
+remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In
+the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th
+chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s
+grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows
+are said to be from M. Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel,
+a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides,
+attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), who was
+at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile is over
+this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. On the
+floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in 1652.
+In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in the
+7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, by Tiarini. At
+the southern end of the church is (29 in plan) the Biblioteca Comunale,
+in the building called the Archiginnasio Antico, originally the
+University, before it was removed to its present edifice. Besides the
+Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a valuable Museum of
+Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and S. Stefano are (17) the _Pal. della
+Mercanzia_, the Chamber of Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal
+Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the Casino. [Headnote: S. STEFANO.] +Santo
+Stefano+ is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and courts, on
+the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the Church of the
+Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great altar. In the 1st
+chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the 2d on the left St.
+Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small chapel into the circular
+chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the tomb of St. Petronius,
+with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, considered to have healing
+virtues. This building is thought to have been formerly the baptistery
+of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, the principal chapel),
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small court, called the
+Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that at Jerusalem, we
+gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which contains four marble
+columns said to have belonged to the temple of Isis, and some pictures
+by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural paintings in the
+sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in the subterranean
+chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown which is said to
+afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After visiting a cloister,
+where the columns show much variety of form, we have made the complete
+tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, which are of great
+interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano in the Strada
+Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see plan), 2, S.
+Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the celebrated
+composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side is the
+church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for its
+collection of pictures. [Headnote: S. BARTOLOMMEO. PAL. ZAMPIERI.
+S. DOMENICO. GUIDO’S TOMB.] _San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has some
+fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an
+“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by
+Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by
+Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned
+from London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, ½ fr.), although
+deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable frescoes
+by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of _Ai
+Servi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In the 2d
+chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th, a St.
+Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by Inno da
+Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of
++S. Domenico+, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and died.
+The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th.
+Interior--2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti. Right of
+south transept--the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. Dominic_, with
+his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. di Pisa. The
+garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. The kneeling
+angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the sarcophagus, were by
+Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, with its bas-reliefs
+illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added until 1532, a work of
+Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of the chapel is a fresco by
+Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic. The painting of the Saint
+burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is by L. Spada; that of the
+Saint recalling a Child to Life is by Tiarini. In a chapel on the right
+side of the high altar is the Marriage of Saint Catharine, by Filippino
+Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In
+the left transept should be noticed the tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on
+the wall a portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, considered here an accurate
+likeness, though painted 100 years after the death of the saint.
+Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel
+of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of
+Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his favourite
+lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the Caracci,
+executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the reredos of the
+altar in this chapel.
+
+[Headnote: S. PIETRO.]
+
+Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S. Pietro, rebuilt in 1605,
+containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last
+painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it.
+Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st
+chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine
+Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In the 1st
+chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in the 5th
+chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino; in the
+next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the chapel next the entrance,
+Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old monuments in the cloisters. East
+from the leaning-towers is S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent.,
+and lately restored. At the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by
+Tiarini; in a large chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful
+landscape, by F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the
+chapel on the left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner.
+
+
+ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.
+
+Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the +Annunziata+.
+In the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by
+L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo
+Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in
+the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.
+
+[Headnote: MADONNA DI S. LUCA. THE CERTOSA.]
+
+Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonna
+di S. Luca+, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. It is
+approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond the
+gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. This portico
+was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was finished. The
+church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed to have been
+painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed from the
+church. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a Carthusian
+convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, and the
+chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom attached to
+each.
+
+269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is Pistoja (see p. 231), and
+291 m. from Turin is Florence (see p. 233).
+
+
++St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.+
+
+ (74 m. N.E. See Map, page 290.)
+
+ miles from ST. PIERRE
+ miles to COURMAYEUR
+
+{ }{74}
++ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+ (see p. 289), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and
+45½ m. N.W. from Modane.
+
+
+{14}{60}
++ALBERTVILLE+, pop. 5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea.
+_Inns:_ Million; Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and
+Annecy, 22 m. N.
+
+
+{22}{52}
++LA ROCHE CEVINS+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden
+and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. beyond
+is the defile Pas de Briançon.
+
+
+{31}{43}
++MOUTIERS+, pop. 2100, and 600 ft. above the sea-level, on the
+confluence of the Doron with the Isère. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. One
+mile from the town is the Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200
+ft. At the base are the salt springs, utilised both by salt-works and a
+bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road extends up a narrow and
+picturesque defile, following the course of the Isère, past St. Marcel,
+pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock called the Detroit du
+Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where the valley is only 145
+ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with the village of
+Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, 8375 ft.,
+commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of Villette,
+pop. 500, we reach
+
+
+[Headnote: AIME.]
+
+{41}{33}
++AIME+, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St.
+Bernard. This, the “Forum Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of
+extensive Roman fortifications, and a very ancient church called St.
+Martin, built of stones from Roman buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre,
+pop. 1100, on the Isere, where the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass
+of the Little St. Bernard comes into view.
+
+
+{50}{24}
++BOURG ST. MAURICE+, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_
+Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the
+confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet.
+
+
+[Headnote: SEEZ.]
+
+{52}{22}
++SEEZ+, the ancient Sextum, a pretty village between six mountains, pop.
+2600, and 2985 ft. above the sea-level. From Seez the road passes the
+village of Villard-Dessus, and then crosses the Recluse by a lofty
+bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, called the Roche Blanche, supposed
+to be the place noticed by Polybius, where Hannibal posted himself to
+protect his cavalry and beasts of burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain;
+the last inhabited village during the winter. From St. Germain the
+ascent is easy to the
+
+
+{58½}{15½}
++HOSPICE+, 7077 ft., founded by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy
+plain 3 m. long, and about a mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated
+by the Colonne de Joux, Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino
+marble. From the Hospice, Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended.
+About 300 paces from the column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a
+circle of large stones lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to
+have held a council of war, 218 B.C. A few miles below are Cantine des
+Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the
+sea-level, 9 m. from Courmayeur.
+
+
+[Headnote: PRÉ ST. DIDIER.]
+
+{70}{4}
++PRÉ ST. DIDIER+, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion.
+Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See map, p. 290.)
+
+
+{74}{ }
++COURMAYEUR+, 4211 ft., the highest considerable village in the valley
+of Aosta. _Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach
+leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs.
+Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every
+summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and
+for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters,
+which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are
+sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable
+circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in
+the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur--the road to
+Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du
+Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St.
+Bernard.
+
+
++Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.+
+
+ From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and Modane
+ to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the Baths of
+ Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for Grenoble,
+ which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux and the
+ other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places are
+ Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.
+
+ (Map, page 304.)
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{ }{476}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
+where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons follow
+pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to.
+
+
+{318}{158}
++LYONS.+ Perrache station. (See p. 29.)
+
+
+{325½}{150½}
++ST. PRIEST+, pop. 2800. In the old castle here Charles VII. confined
+his son Louis XI., then the Dauphin.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOURGOIN.]
+
+{344}{132}
++BOURGOIN+, pop. 5200. _Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres
+of bog, producing large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La
+Tour-du-Pin, pop. 3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre.
+
+
+{358}{118}
++ST. ANDRE-LE-GAZ.+ A coach at this station awaits passengers for
+Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse may
+be visited.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIRIEU.]
+
+{363}{113}
++VIRIEU+, pop. 2000. With a large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in
+good preservation, containing tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHABONS.]
+
+{368}{108}
++CHABONS+, pop. 2000. 5 m. distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft.
+deep, surrounded by wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end
+of the lake is Paladru, pop. 1000.
+
+
+[Headnote: RIVES.]
+
+{371}{105}
++RIVES+, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station,
+on the Fure. It has some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well
+as some considerable forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants
+employ themselves in the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The
+parish church was built in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the
+castle of Châteaubourg, destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from
+Rives to St. Rambert, 35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see
+page 43).
+
+
+[Headnote: VOIRON.]
+
+{378}{98}
++VOIRON+, 939 ft., pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches
+and gigs await passengers for the +Grande Chartreuse+, 15 m. distant by
+the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and 6 from
+the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy town on the river
+Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth manufactories. Here the
+monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large premises for the sale of their
+famous cordials, which they distil, not in the monastery itself, but in
+a large building a little beyond St. Laurent. The road from Voiron to
+the Grande Chartreuse joins the road from Voreppe just before reaching
+the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, distant from both stations 9 m.,
+1344 ft., pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we
+pass on our right the distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a
+narrow gorge, among fine woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent,
+consisting of an immense square building, garnished with pavilions,
+situated on a narrow plateau 3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base
+of the Grand Som, which towers 3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from
+this place in about 3 hrs. This monastery, the head establishment of the
+Carthusian friars, was founded by St. Bruno, the originator of the
+order, in 1084. At first it consisted only of a small chapel, with six
+poor cells, the habitations of St. Bruno and his followers, built in
+what was then an almost inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.
+
+The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided
+with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small
+garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being
+occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the
+handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple
+vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. walk in the
+surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and on
+feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. Animal
+food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 A.M. they attend mass,
+excepting on Sundays, when the hour is 8 A.M. Vespers are said at 4
+P.M., and matins at a quarter to 12 midnight. Visitors who wish to see
+the monks should endeavour to be at the chapel-door at any of these
+hours. For gentlemen guests there is ample accommodation in the convent,
+clean beds, three large dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent
+water. The men-servants, of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story;
+the wives, however, of these servants, not being allowed to enter the
+convent, dwell in a house a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in
+this house also that ladies who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no
+female is allowed to enter the monastery.
+
+Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they
+distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at
+Voiron, at the following prices:--Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the litre
+bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche, 4 frs.
+
+From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in
+about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before
+commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St.
+Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the
+top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S.,
+5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per day.
+
+
+[Headnote: MOIRANS.]
+
+{381½}{94½}
++MOIRANS+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to
+Valence, 50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, +St. Marcellin+, pop.
+4000. _Inns:_ Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to
+the picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S., whence
+another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. (For Die,
+see p. 47.)
+
+
+[Headnote: VOREPPE.]
+
+{385}{91}
++VOREPPE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse
+may alight here also, from which it is 15 m. distant.
+
+
+[Headnote: GRENOBLE.]
+
+{394}{82}
++GRENOBLE+, pop. 46,000, and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated
+on the Isère, by far the greater part being on the left bank, while on
+the other there is a mere strip hemmed in between the river and the
+steep declivities of the Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the
+*Monnet; Europe; the two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in
+the Rue Montorge, is the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial
+travellers. Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from
+the 7th to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room No. 9. Among the cheaper
+second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; Marseille; *Bayard; all near
+each other and to the Place Grenette. Of the small houses at the
+station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple Protestant at the W. end of
+the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions for a very small sum may be
+taken to all the important places in the neighbourhood by means of the
+rail and the diligences and omnibuses which start from the Place
+Grenette. On the road to the railway station is a large and handsome
+hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. Hugues. A little way down, on
+the other side of the river, is the Esplanade, a very large oblong
+square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded by trees, much frequented on
+feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de Ville, off the Place
+Grenette.
+
+[Headnote: COACHES. BASTILE. BAYARD. ST. ANDRÉ.]
+
+From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey,
+Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and Gières;
+from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., fare 5 frs.;
+also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs., 7 hrs.
+
+The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit of
+the Bastile, 915 ft. above the river. To reach it cross the river by the
+bridge highest up, then ascend by the first road to the left in the
+village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After numerous windings by a
+bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side of the mountain exposed
+to the S., a square house is attained on the plateau behind the fort.
+The view is magnificent, but it is still better from the peak
+immediately above, where there is one of the quarries of argillaceous
+siliceous limestone, extensively used for making cement. Ascend either
+by the continuation of the same bullock-road or by the steep footpath.
+The isolated mountain, so prominent from the village of La Tronche, is
+Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that
+remains of its early history are some fragments of the walls built by
+Diocletian. The most interesting of the buildings is the Palais des
+Dauphins, now the Palais de Justice. In the square in front is a bronze
+statue of Bayard, one of the most illustrious heroes of a chivalrous
+age, esteemed by his contemporaries the model of soldiers and of men of
+honour. Born in 1476 at the neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died
+at Rebecq on the 30th April 1524 from wounds received at the battle of
+Romagnane, and was buried in the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from
+Grenoble, whence in 1823 his ashes were removed to the church of St.
+André and deposited in the tomb in the N. transept. +St. André+, founded
+in the 13th cent., was the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the
+intersection of the transepts rises a fine tower, terminating with a
+steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, fronting the
+promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, attached to the Hôtel de Ville
+stands on foundations laid by Diocletian.
+
+[Headnote: LIBRARY.]
+
+E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th to
+the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone tabernacle,
+and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th cent. At the
+S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the Place de la
+Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture occupies the
+entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic Gardens and the
+Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a handsome building,
+are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. On the E. side are
+the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice containing the public
+library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. long and 156 ft. wide,
+and cost £67,585. +The Library+, open every day except Monday, contains
+150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a comfortable
+reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and 44 ft. wide,
+is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted by handsome
+cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed richly-illuminated
+manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass cases containing
+medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric times. Among the
+MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by Raoul de Sestre in
+1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New Testament, 12th cent., and
+another in Vaudois, 13th cent.
+
+ [Map: The French Waldensian Valleys]
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. MUSEUM.]
+
+The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains 550
+paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the largest
+and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists
+are:--Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine,
+Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino,
+Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes,
+C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink,
+Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude
+Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch, Holbeina,
+Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, Licinio,
+Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard, Millet, Monnayer,
+Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, Perugino, Piombo,
+Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, Ruisdael, Rysbraek,
+Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, D. Teniers, Terburg,
+Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, Van den Veldt, Van Loo,
+P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last room of the picture
+gallery is a chamber containing the busts and portraits of the most
+famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to
+VI., Jean I. and II., Humbert I. and II.--Bayard, 1476-1524;
+Lesdiguières, 1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780;
+Champollion, 1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable
+antique furniture, porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also
+one of those models of the Bastile which were distributed among the
+eighty-three departments of France after the fall of that stronghold of
+despotism on the 14th of July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery
+is the Rue Lesdiguières leading to the Temple Protestant. On the way is
+passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the Museum of
+Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the museum
+consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens illustrating the
+organic and inorganic products of this part of the Alps. The birds and
+ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out to La Tronche is
+the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th cent., is supported
+on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: MANUFACTURES.]
+
+Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble,
+representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the
+workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves
+in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in
+1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of
+Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline.
+Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department.
+The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well
+selected.
+
+Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs. Returns next
+day at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341),
+passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the
+Roman road and the Durance.
+ 7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow valley.
+ 1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, and strata
+ of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead ore.
+
+[Headnote: SASSENAGE.]
+
+ 3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses
+ start from the Place Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez
+ omnibuses leave their passengers at the entrance into the town near
+ the H. Faure, but the Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the
+ “Place” and stop before the inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the
+ inn is the house of the guide for Les Cuves, whose services are
+ necessary to be able to cross the Furon and the torrent from the
+ Cuves. This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and
+ Sassenage itself makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense
+ number of small vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac;
+ whence it is a very pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to
+ Sassenage. The suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of
+ this kind constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains
+ it is supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots.
+ The gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of
+ limestone strata of great thickness, much valued for building
+ purposes. The path to the Cuves commences at the left side
+ (approaching) of the H. du Commerce, and, having passed through a
+ doorway, enters a kind of park and ascends by the right side of the
+ Furon. About 1½ m. up is a great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks
+ as if it had been made artificially, out of which rushes a copious
+ stream of pure water. After crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of
+ a little more than 150 ft. to an enormous vault, within which are two
+ caves, called Les Cuves, out of each of which rushes a great volume of
+ water, which united passes under the cavern below called the Four des
+ Fées. After this two or three beautiful cascades, quite near, are
+ visited, and the Furon is crossed and the return made by the left side
+ of this most picturesque river. From the Cuves side is seen part of
+ the ruins of the old castle of the Berangers, to which a series of
+ steps leads up, commencing near the mills, left bank. Their modern
+ castle, built in the 17th cent., stands within a large park adjoining
+ the village. The large halls are furnished with antique furniture and
+ hung with paintings, a large proportion being family and historical
+ portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and marchioness are hung with
+ old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese is made in the mountains
+ around Villard and Lans, some miles to the south of Grenoble. The
+ general quality is not so good as formerly, as more of the cream now
+ is used for making butter.
+
+[Headnote: GRENOBLE TO BRIANÇON.]
+
+ +Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans+ and the Col de Lautaret (see
+ map p. 304). Distance, 69 m. E. Diligence daily. When there is much
+ snow, the Col is passed on sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to
+ the state of the road. Fare, 16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from
+ Briançon to Grenoble stops several hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a
+ good plan to alight there for the night. This magnificent
+ mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in 1804, opened in 1842, and
+ finished in 1868, makes a charming walking excursion; while from
+ almost every village grand mountain tours may be made. Bourg d’Oisans,
+ with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, makes capital quarters.
+ There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, H. d’Europe; La Grave,
+ H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the
+ Hospice itself on the top of the Pass, where beds and food may be had
+ at most reasonable charges.
+
+[Headnote: CLAIX. VIZILLE. SÉCHILIENNE.]
+
+ 5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the
+ river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. de
+ France, with a bridge across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53
+ ft. above the river, built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. farther S.
+ by a road between poplars is +Vizille+, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert;
+ Lion d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the
+ station. A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between
+ high mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is +Séchilienne+, pop. 1300.
+ _Inn:_ Petit Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of
+ one street, magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the
+ valley of the Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above
+ each other. To the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from
+ Séchilienne in about 6 hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is
+ reached, whence the ascent lies through pastures and pine woods to
+ some steep rocks. The track then, leaving on the right a small tarn,
+ keeps along the base of the rocks to an abandoned mine, where it runs
+ along the ridge called the Arete de Brouffier, overlooking the valley
+ of the Combe de Valloire on the right and the Combe de Gavet on the
+ left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, usually covered with snow;
+ whence a second ridge leads up to the highest peak.
+
+ From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of
+ Riouperoux, in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought
+ down by the terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated
+ the plain from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet
+ of Livet at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its
+ junction with the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and
+ the argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de
+ l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the
+ Bella Donna.
+
+[Headnote: BOURG D’OISANS.]
+
+ 29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. _Inns:_
+ France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon remains at the
+ Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey here and
+ start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche,
+ surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000
+ ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded
+ with houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to
+ Lac Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its
+ dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide, and
+ commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due
+ N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of
+ Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and
+ valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr.
+ farther is Lake Blanc.
+
+[Headnote: ROAD TO THE ECRINS.]
+
+ Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of
+ which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7½ m., St.
+ Christophe 13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La
+ Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave the
+ narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to
+ the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole
+ valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the
+ distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier
+ summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the prolongation of
+ the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; _Inn:_ Paquet, on an
+ elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure and noble walnut woods,
+ on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly opposite Venose are the green
+ pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, 8300 ft. As the tributary
+ valleys do not join the principal valley at common level, but are
+ considerably higher, a waterfall, often of great beauty, almost
+ invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. In ascending the
+ valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes narrower, the rounded
+ forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly left, and, the
+ torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, a very short
+ distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. A mountain on the
+ right hand has at some remote time crumbled into fragments and
+ literally filled the valley from side to side with a colossal heap of
+ ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path practicable for
+ mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with excessive
+ commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was unable
+ to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three carriages
+ to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, harmonising
+ with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the romantic
+ village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few houses perched on
+ a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of the beautiful
+ cascades. [Headnote: ST. CHRISTOPHE. LA BERARDE.] Not much farther on,
+ the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of a rough hill to
+ +St. Christophe+, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just
+ before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow
+ cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du
+ Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages,
+ commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss
+ scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing
+ immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of
+ rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely
+ adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light,
+ is comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which
+ stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the
+ scenery of the Allée Blanche. +La Berarde+, which is placed in the
+ midst of this savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a
+ small chapel distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation
+ ceases just at the village; a few stunted pines are found still higher
+ up, but there is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose.
+ This excessive sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of
+ Dauphiné. The village of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft.,
+ that of St. Christophe is 4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character
+ of the scenery is, like that of Switzerland, at a greater elevation.
+ The unbroken rocky surfaces deceive the eye to such an extent that it
+ is difficult to realise the enormous scale of these mountains. To
+ ascertain their height we must attempt to mount them, and even then
+ the eye has some difficulty to submit to the testimony of the limbs.
+ The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is
+ extremely dangerous. Mont Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde,
+ but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p. 304).
+
+
+[Headnote: LE FRENEY.]
+
++Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.+
+
+ After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche
+ flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the
+ side of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble
+ is +Le Freney+, 3085 ft., pop. 900; _Inn:_ H. Europe, with mines up in
+ the mountains but of difficult access. It is in these mines that the
+ crystals and the species of quartz containing gold are found, for
+ which the Dauphiné is so celebrated among mineralogists.
+
+ 2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with
+ a small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret
+ is passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a
+ soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les Freaux,
+ a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a precipice of
+ granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from Grenoble and 24 m.
+ from Briançon is
+
+[Headnote: LA GRAVE. COL DE LAUTARET.]
+
+ +La Grave+, 5000 ft.; _Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope
+ rising from the road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs
+ containing copper mines, and opposite, on the other side of the river,
+ the great glacier which streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080
+ ft. To the E. of the Meije is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a
+ smaller glacier. The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W.,
+ and is crowned by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The
+ two highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and
+ are rather more than a mile apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest
+ or western aiguille must be made from the northern side. The view of
+ this mountain from the village of La Grave can hardly be praised too
+ highly; it is one of the very finest road views in the Alps, and one
+ cannot speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential
+ glaciers, and tremendous precipices. The perpendicular cliff,
+ extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the summit of the Meije, is
+ about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads through a bleak region and
+ several tunnels to Villard d’Arene, 4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from
+ Briançon, a miserable hamlet, considerably under the high road, at the
+ foot of the Bec de l’Homme.
+
+[Headnote: LE CASSET.]
+
+ 51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the +Hospice of
+ the Col de Lautaret+, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft.,
+ where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two
+ diligences pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it
+ is 11 kilomètres (6⅘ m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.)
+ from Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of
+ Malaval and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi,
+ 13,081 ft. above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche
+ descends to Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon.
+ From the Hospice the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a
+ mine of anthracite coal not far from the village of Lauzet. The
+ discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of
+ this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long
+ and inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is
+ the hamlet of Le Casset, at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the
+ entrance to the ravine of the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great
+ glaciers which spread themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont
+ Pelvoux. When the snow is melted the effect of the sun upon them is
+ splendid. 60 m. from Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is
+
+[Headnote: LE MONÈTIER. BRIANÇON.]
+
+ +Le Monètier de Briançon+, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with
+ barley-fields, pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St.
+ Marguerite, 8328 ft., which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux
+ group. Horses changed here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment,
+ with hot sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes
+ the villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and
+ night-cap manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and
+ 4299 ft. above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is
+
+ +Briançon+, 4335 ft., pop. 6000. _Inn:_ H. de la Paix. Temple
+ Protestant. The Brigantium of the Romans, and now a fortified town of
+ the first class, with eight strong fortresses, which guard this
+ important entrance into France from Italy. The town stands on the
+ steep sides of an eminence rising vertically from the Durance, here a
+ roaring mountain torrent hemmed in between the cliffs of the Mont
+ Infernet, with strong forts on all the salient points up to the very
+ summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this part the Durance is spanned by
+ a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and 108 ft. above the river,
+ erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On the right side of the
+ river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and opposite, on the
+ left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the largest of the forts.
+ The views from them are very extensive, especially from the fort
+ Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to visit the
+ forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building down
+ the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. Catherine,
+ is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded and
+ prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn
+ 14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 P.M., 1½ hr. allowed
+ for meals. The longitudinal streets of Briançon are narrow and steep,
+ little better than staircases, down the centre of each of which runs a
+ stream of water in a marble gutter, with such an impulse that all
+ manner of garbage thrown into it quickly disappears. At the foot of
+ Briançon is the fertile valley formed by the union of the Guisanne
+ with the Durance, surrounded by carefully-cultivated mountains studded
+ with villages. All the Briançon coaches start from the Place du
+ Temple, in front of the church. “The neighbourhood of Briançon abounds
+ in rare plants. Amongst them may be mentioned Astragalus austriacus
+ and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium
+ Imperati, Brassica repanda, Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum
+ heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace septentrionalis, and
+ Bulbocodium vernum.” --Ball’s _Western Alps_.
+
+[Headnote: VAL LOUISE. GRAND PELVOUX.]
+
+ The great excursion from Briançon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group,
+ whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in
+ favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road extends
+ by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a path
+ ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The +Ville de Val
+ Louise+ lies near the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the
+ principal branch of the Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching
+ up to the foot of the monarch of the group, the +Grand Pelvoux+
+ itself, which, although at no great distance, cannot be seen from the
+ village on account of the hill which rises immediately behind. (See
+ p. 345, and map p. 304.)
+
+[Headnote: CESANNE.]
+
+ +Briançon to Oulx+, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a
+ beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views
+ of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the
+ summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans,
+ is the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house,
+ 6476 ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it
+ and 10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres
+ from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost 25 m.
+ from Susa (p. 291). A few yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the
+ boundary between France and Italy, and which commemorates in French,
+ Latin, and Italian the opening of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I.,
+ and its restoration or rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is
+ +Cesanne+, at the confluence of the Dora with the Ripa, 4420 ft., or
+ nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian custom-house. _Inn:_
+ Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. A post-road leads from
+ Cesanne to Perosa, 28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514
+ ft., with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The
+ diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p. 291. From
+ Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms
+ a pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably
+ shortened on the French side by following the footpath.
+
+ Grenoble to Gap by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes
+ only the length of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence
+ for Gap.
+
+
++Grenoble to Corps.+
+
+ By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road.
+ From Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the
+ railway and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. 328 and 345), and thence
+ in another straight line between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther.
+ Coach from Vizille to La Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence
+ takes nine horses, and having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the
+ flanks of Mont Conex in 2 hrs. to the village of La Frey or Laffrey,
+ 2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and 15 from Grenoble, in a
+ cold situation on the top of this pass, about 3000 ft. above the sea;
+ the horses are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On
+ this plateau, immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050
+ ft. above the sea, 2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the
+ village of the Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To
+ the right or west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite
+ coalmines, some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The
+ diligence next passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble,
+ a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 ft.
+
+[Headnote: LA MURE. CORPS.]
+
+ 23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is +La Mure+, 2860 ft.,
+ pop. 3800, the largest town on the road, with the ancient castle of
+ Beaumont, nail manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans,
+ 3½ m. distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next
+ village, is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the
+ edges of high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the
+ Bonne, which it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is
+ exactly half-way between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m.
+ from Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge
+ of La Salette, arrives at
+
+ +Corps+, 39½ m. from Grenoble, on a plateau 814 ft. above the
+ confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, or 3156 ft. above the sea.
+ Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next each other. Mules for La
+ Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. the seat, or 15 frs. the
+ whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and 2750 ft. above it, by a
+ wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It is better to descend
+ on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very picturesque, and, like
+ all the journeys among the mountains of the department of Isère, of
+ great interest to the botanist and geologist. The inhabitants of these
+ mountains wander in winter to distant parts selling their plants,
+ bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most justly famous
+ liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, Grenoble, and
+ elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, one of the
+ best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of which the
+ black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA SALETTE.]
+
+LA SALETTE.
+
+ This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now
+ visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of
+ Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. The church,
+ a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished
+ marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside
+ measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached
+ pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The
+ pulpit was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three
+ doorways, has on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses,
+ which were very great in a region of such difficult access, and where
+ winter lasts six months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions.
+ Opposite the façade are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the
+ gift of a Spaniard, representing the events of the story. On the south
+ side of the choir a door opens into the large and spacious building
+ occupied by the nuns, and on the north side another door opens into a
+ similar building occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in
+ each is exactly the same. The pension price, including wine and
+ everything else, is 5½ frs. per day. Visitors can have a good meat
+ breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½ frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au
+ lait ½ fr., a cup of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are
+ very obliging. Books approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in
+ the “magasin” of the establishment, giving the history of the
+ apparition, from which the following is extracted:-- “On the 19th of
+ September 1846, at 2.30 P.M., was seen by a girl and a boy in the
+ place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone shedding
+ tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 ft. in
+ diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow forth freely.
+ Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called the
+ miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat
+ Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years
+ old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could
+ neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such
+ frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a
+ few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to
+ learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children
+ in the path between the railings indicate the place where they were
+ standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became
+ aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in
+ French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not
+ submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so
+ heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and
+ do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I
+ have taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have
+ reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is
+ that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts
+ cannot swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are
+ the two things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She
+ continued a little longer in French till, observing the children did
+ not understand her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same
+ strain, a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of
+ the Sabbath-- ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and
+ having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout
+ mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by
+ the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with
+ the statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she
+ disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was
+ acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day
+ in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and
+ other acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August
+ 1867 the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The
+ first stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary
+ appeared to the children, was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble,
+ on 25th May 1852, assisted by Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the
+ presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In the churches all over France and in
+ many of those in Belgium are pictures representing N. D. de la Salette
+ addressing the children. In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette
+ she is appealed to as “the tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the
+ morning star,” “the refuge of sinners,” “the queen conceived without
+ sin,” “the healer of diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm
+ of the irritated Lord against us is held back,” “thou who hast said,
+ If my people will not submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of
+ my son,” “thou who continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy
+ upon us, pray for us.”
+
+ The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a
+ shop at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par
+ Maximin Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was
+ sent to a nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that
+ the pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born
+ near Saint-Marcellin, Isère.
+
+ From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap,
+ 22½ m. S. (See p. 333, and map p. 304.)
+
+
+[Headnote: GIÈRES.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{398}{78}
++GIÈRES.+ At this station omnibuses await passengers for the baths of
+Uriage, 4 m. N., and 1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien
+Hôtel; Des Bains; Du Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable
+and commodious, and is pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley,
+about 400 ft. higher than Grenoble. The water contains common salt,
+sulphates of magnesia and soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a
+deep valley at the junction of granite and lias, which is, however,
+concealed for some way by an immense mass of detritus, through which the
+spring forces itself. It is conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous
+conduit to the establishment, whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr.
+
+
+[Headnote: DOMENE.]
+
+{401}{75}
++DOMENE+, pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is
+generally made the laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft.
+above the sea-level. Guides necessary. The first night is generally
+spent at the village of Revel. Two days required.
+
+
+[Headnote: GONCELIN.]
+
+{412}{64}
++GONCELIN+, pop. 1600. Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by
+an excellent road through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses
+awaiting passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits
+passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the
+right bank of the Isére.
+
+ Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The three
+ principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ frs.
+ to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, with
+ the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other end
+ of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place contiguous to
+ the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ frs. In a garden
+ of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the France. The H.
+ Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of the lias with the
+ primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° Fahr., with a great
+ deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially efficacious in diseases of
+ the throat and the respiratory organs, for the cure of which the
+ establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus for inhalation and
+ gargling being both complete and varied.
+
+ Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate
+ of iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.
+
+ Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the
+ road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin
+ du Monde,” 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable
+ to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at
+ the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank
+ and ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of
+ the way. At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a
+ toll of 10 sous.
+
+ The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an
+ elevated point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the
+ Isère. 25 min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the
+ remains of a castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this
+ a path ascends through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the
+ hamlet of Crozet. Descend by sledge, 2 frs.
+
+ There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the
+ mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a
+ tariff by the authorities of the place.
+
+[Headnote: SEPT LAUX.]
+
+ The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most
+ difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La
+ Ferrière+, to the Sept Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level,
+ and the Glacier of Gleyzin, 9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time
+ required to go, 14 hrs. constant walking, but to the lakes only, about
+ half that time. This series of lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild
+ gloomy ravine, shut in on all sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by
+ springs, and are not accumulations of stagnant water derived from the
+ melting snow. The banks are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered
+ with snow nearly the whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake
+ Blanc, is almost always frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a
+ sluggish frog inhabits the marshy margins.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONTCHARRÁ.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{418}{58}
++PONTCHARRÁ+ station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of
+Pontcharrá, pop. 2800, _Inn:_ Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant.
+ From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La
+ Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly
+ from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.
+
+ {426}{50}
+ +LES MARCHES+, a straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which
+ stands the church of Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of
+ the Virgin. Beyond are some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips
+ from Mt. Granier, 6520 ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where
+ passengers by this route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and
+ join the direct line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53
+ miles), see from Montmélian, p. 289.
+
+
++Marseilles to Grenoble+,
+
+190 m. N., by GARDANNE, AIX, PERTUIS, ST. AUBAN, VEYNES, and CLELLES.
+Fare--first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is
+394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see p. 324).
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{ }{190}
++MARSEILLES.+ There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by
+Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be chosen by
+those who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p. 77).
+
+
+[Headnote: GARDANNE.]
+
+{11}{179}
++GARDANNE+, pop. 3500, on the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes
+are important coal-fields.
+ Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of
+ numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line
+ extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and
+ Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of interest are Brignoles and
+ St. Maximin.
+
+
+{18½}{171½}
++AIX-EN-PROVENCE+ (see p. 78). At Aix change carriages for Rognac. 5 m.
+N. from Aix is La Calade station, where a coach awaits passengers for
+St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther (p. 80). 5 m.
+S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. 16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from
+Marseilles, is Meyrargues (see p. 79).
+
+
+[Headnote: PERTUIS.]
+
+{38}{152}
++PERTUIS+, pop. 5800. _Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other.
+ Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from
+ the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m.
+ W., passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L’Isle, the station
+ for Vaucluse (see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the
+ Durance commences near Pertuis (p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is
+ the Tour d’Aigues, which was part of the old fortifications. From
+ Pertuis the country becomes picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of
+ Mirabeau, pop. 800, with the castle in which Mirabeau spent his
+ boyhood, and in which his father was born.
+
+ 60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque,
+ pop. 6200 (see pp. 166 and 168). 4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx
+ village and station, with beds of lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles
+ is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is
+ the station and village of Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking the
+ Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and a
+ Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.
+
+
+[Headnote: PEYRUIS.]
+
+{77½}{112½}
++PEYRUIS+, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance,
+at the base of cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by
+the action of water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.
+
+
+{80½}{109½}
++ST. AUBAN+, pop. 250, junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, see
+p. 166, and maps pp. 162 and 304.)
+
+ +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles+,
+ 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La
+ Javie, famous for plums; pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of
+ the Bléonne with the Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the
+ Combefère, whence a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990
+ ft. Thence descend to Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of
+ gypsum, 19 m. from Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is
+ commenced the ascent of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend
+ to Seyne-les-Alpes, pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and
+ half-way between Digne and Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the
+ 11th and 12th cents. 18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet,
+ is St. Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking
+ the Ubaye. From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette,
+ p. 341.
+
+[Headnote: COLMARS.]
+
+ +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. Thomas, Colmars, and Allos+,
+ 55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200,
+ on a confluent of the Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at
+ the foot of Mts. Meunier and Draye, on the Sence at its junction with
+ the Verdon. Excellent cheese, called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills.
+ 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. 1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from
+ Barcelonnette. A short way from Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in
+ one of the wildest and most sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake
+ Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, 4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep,
+ containing capital trout, and surrounded by cliffs in some places 590
+ ft. high, over which tower bleak mountains, of which the most lofty is
+ Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake discharges its surplus water through a
+ subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, whence it issues under the name of
+ the torrent Chadoulin. From the village of Allos proceed to
+ Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an interesting church, and
+ Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary of the Ubaye. (For
+ Barcelonnette, see p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see
+ p. 165.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SISTERON.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{91}{99}
++SISTERON+, pop. 5000. Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre;
+their omnibuses await passengers at station.
+ Picturesquely situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the
+ Durance at its confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the
+ town are the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part
+ of the fortifications built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has
+ been very much altered externally by restoration and repairs. The
+ effect of the graceful octagonal tower has been destroyed by the
+ square tower adjoining. In the interior the arches are early pointed,
+ inclining to the stilted form. The three apsidal terminations are
+ semicircular. The small window at the end of each is closed. The end
+ of the town farthest from the railway is picturesque. From the gateway
+ rise perpendicular cliffs of blue limestone, on the top of which is a
+ fortress of the third class. Immediately opposite, on the other side
+ of the Durance, are similar strata heaved up and twisted into an
+ enormous pyramid. A little beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by
+ the cemetery to a place where there is a good view of the valleys of
+ the Durance and the Buech. 7 m. N. from Sisteron is +Mison+ station,
+ 2002 ft. above the sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m.
+ farther, Laragne station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is
+ Eyguians-Orpier station, 1979 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: SERRES.]
+
+{112½}{77½}
++SERRES+, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of
+dirty, steep, narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff
+rising from between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to Nyons, 41 m.
+E., p. 51. 8 m. N. from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: VEYNES.]
+
+{121½}{68½}
++VEYNES+, 2614 ft. above the sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. and
+Rest, de la Gare; in town, H. Dousselin.
+
+ Junction with rail to +Mont Dauphin-Guillestre+, 51 m. N.E. This
+ branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which traverse
+ the valleys of the Waldenses.
+
+[Headnote: GAP.]
+
+ On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from Mont
+ Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, 2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300.
+ _Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; France. This, the ancient Civitas
+ Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, extensive barracks, long avenues
+ of walnut trees, and a handsome modern cathedral, built on the site of
+ one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture is the mausoleum of the
+ Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the leaders of the
+ Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, Guillaume Farel,
+ a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He died on the 13th
+ Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his character were
+ dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed a sonorous
+ and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate earnestness;
+ yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of large
+ audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, aroused
+ against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.
+
+[Headnote: LE LAUZET.]
+
+ +Gap to Barcelonnette+, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare, 8 frs.;
+ time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its confluence with the
+ Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it ascends by the N. side
+ of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from
+ Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the
+ horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with
+ the Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and
+ ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, 23 m.
+ from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil is made.
+ The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost every
+ part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the picturesque
+ fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from Gap is Le
+ Lauzet, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with
+ narrow gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake
+ abounding with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the
+ entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S.
+ side of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of
+ Meolans occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses
+ to the right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m.
+ from Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St.
+ Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th
+ cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the
+ church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side.
+ Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over
+ the door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the
+ presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is
+ a square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a
+ pattern to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the
+ characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally
+ great to the height of the spire.
+
+[Headnote: BARCELONNETTE. ST. PAUL.]
+
+ +Barcelonnette+, 3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord;
+ France; on the Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by
+ mountains clothed with walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present
+ village was built in 1230 on ground given by Reymond Beranger, in
+ honour of whose ancestors, the Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the
+ newly-erected town received its name. The parish church, begun in
+ 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, nearly rebuilt in the 16th
+ and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the corner of the “Place” is
+ all that remains of the church of N. D. de Confort, built in 1290 and
+ destroyed in 1789.
+
+ From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there
+ is also one to the village of St. Paul, 4730 ft. above the sea, and
+ 13½ m. N.E. from Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the
+ Maddalena road, the length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it
+ diverges 6½ m. N. up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye.
+ The wheel-road continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft.
+ above the sea. From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet,
+ 8767 ft., and the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair
+ inn) and Château Dauphin and the river Vraita.
+
+[Headnote: JAUSIERS. BERSEZIO.]
+
+ +Barcelonnette to Cuneo+ by the Col della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte,
+ and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a
+ diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road all the way (see map, p. 304). Guide
+ not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. 3¾ m.
+ more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the Ubaye with the
+ Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The road, to avoid
+ the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to a
+ considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
+ Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
+ Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La
+ Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley
+ of the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the other goes to the Pass of
+ +La Maddalena+. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or 14¼ m. from Barcelonnette,
+ is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; Italie; 5570 ft., the last French
+ village. 5 m. beyond, or 19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating
+ point of the Pass of the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the
+ sea, between Mt. Mourre and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The
+ mule-path on the S.E. side now descends 850 ft. by the Lago della
+ Maddalena, the source of the Stura, to the hamlets of Maddalena and
+ Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and Italian custom-house. A little
+ distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 from
+ Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine wild
+ scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The Baths are up
+ a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at the hamlet of
+ Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. 8 m. from Vinadio
+ is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with the stream di
+ Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, 8422 ft.,
+ leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about 25 m. W.
+ from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, and 57 from
+ Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to Cuneo. (For Cuneo,
+ see pp. 182 and 279.)
+
+ +Gap to Grenoble by Laye, Corps, and La Mure+, 62 m. Diligence to
+ Vizille, the remaining 8 m. by rail.
+
+ From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, by
+ +Laye+, 6½ m. N., where the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On
+ the summit is a house of refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques,
+ _Inn:_ H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
+ Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières,
+ in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p. 333).
+
+[Headnote: LA MURE. CHORGES.]
+
+ 23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is +La Mure+, pop. 3800, and
+ 2860 ft. above the sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs
+ between La Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche.
+ There is a large trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m.
+ distant are the anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is
+ Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. W.
+ by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is Laffrey
+ (see p. 333).
+
+ 26¾ m. from Veynes junction is +Chorges+, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la
+ Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
+ unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to
+ Diana. In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In
+ and around the town are fragments of Roman buildings. The chapel of
+ Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of Chorges, is visited by
+ pilgrims.
+
+[Headnote: SAVINES. EMBRUN.]
+
+ 34¼ m. from Veynes is +Savines+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste, on
+ the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest and
+ valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all the
+ way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
+ Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is
+
+ +Embrun+, 3014 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste;
+ 8¾ m. S.E. from Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of
+ the Romans and one of their important military stations, is situated
+ on an eminence in the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S.
+ side of Mont St. Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous
+ situation stands the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded
+ in the time of Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed
+ deep-set windows with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are
+ supported by flat buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west
+ end consists of a flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from
+ the N. side. Above the portal is a rose window with valuable old
+ painted glass. The N. portal is within a portico on four columns. The
+ two outer rest on lions; the two inner, each a cluster of four slender
+ columns, rest on the shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse
+ with its two apsidal chapels and part of the adjoining wall are
+ probably the only parts of the church which date from the time of
+ Charlemagne. The interior is about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each
+ side of the nave are four wide spanned early pointed arches resting on
+ massive rectangular piers. Above each arch is a small roundheaded
+ deeply-recessed window within a corniced arch resting on colonnettes.
+ Below in the aisles are their exact counterparts, only about double
+ the size. The roof of the nave is quadripartite, and that of the aisle
+ semicircular. The high altar and angels are of white marble. The organ
+ and most of the ornaments date from the time of Louis XI., who
+ frequently visited this church to pray to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that
+ white marble image of the Virgin and Child over the altar fronting the
+ northern entrance. On the inside of the northern doorway (left hand)
+ are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same size. It is said that
+ Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to ride into the
+ church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse reared, and
+ the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the animal could
+ proceed no farther.
+
+ Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the
+ centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
+ 3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.
+
+ After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun, with
+ a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3¾ m.
+ farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing
+ establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.
+
+[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN.]
+
+ 51 m. N.E. from Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coarse
+ reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the
+ Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above the
+ road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the
+ summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the
+ top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
+ stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the
+ village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy
+ appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and
+ mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers,
+ and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.
+
+[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIÉS.]
+
+ 2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is
+ the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and church
+ of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, passing
+ through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800
+ ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a cascade.
+ 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort
+ and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m. N.E. from
+ Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras Protestants
+ are numerous, especially in the Val +d’Arvieux+, reached by a road
+ branching off on the left about 1½ m. below Château Queyras; as well
+ as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre
+ Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran,
+ and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three
+ weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish”
+ (see p. 304, and _Murray_, p. 216). A little higher up the left or S.
+ bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent.,
+ and an inn. 18 m. from Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an
+ inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½
+ hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and
+ Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil.
+ Although Abriés is a convenient halting-place, it is a most
+ unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from +Abriés+ on the Guil
+ is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left.
+
+ For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin,
+ p. 306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p. 304.
+
+ +Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a
+ good road extends 21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the
+ valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From
+ Abriés a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on
+ the S. flank of Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from
+ the Col. 8 m. beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief
+ town in the valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on
+ the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about
+ 17 m. S., to Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley
+ of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m.
+ N.E. from Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304).
+
+[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX.]
+
+ 45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is +La
+ Bessée+, 3420 ft. above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste.
+ Here passengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
+ Val Louise, about 6½ m. W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see
+ p. 333). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is Briançon (see p. 333). “Nearly
+ opposite La Bessée to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which
+ terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top,
+ rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is visible from the road in
+ clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right
+ leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a mass of
+ ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pass, called Col de
+ Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called
+ Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed
+ themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as
+ much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position
+ and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by
+ Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its
+ inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their
+ hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire to at the
+ mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in
+ attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
+ below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
+ caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
+ believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
+ valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_.
+ The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable
+ goitred race.” --_Murray_, p. 218.
+
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{126}{64}
++ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction
+with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side of Rhône (see p. 46). The road
+after leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceeds
+westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see p. 47).
+
+
+{154½}{35½}
++CLELLES+, 2400 ft., pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Station to alight at
+to make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high,
+near Chichiliane, about 7 m. distant towards Die.
+
+
+{163}{27}
++MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold
+acidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIF.]
+
+{177}{13}
++VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt.
+Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIZILLE.]
+
+{181}{9}
++VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the
+Vigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right
+bank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored
+and used as a manufactory (see p. 333).
+
+
+{185}{5}
++PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000
+ft. high (see p. 328).
+
+
+{190}{ }
++GRENOBLE.+ (See p. 324.)
+
+
++Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.+
+
+ See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhône and Savoy, p. 27.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to LYONS
+
+ { }{349}
+ +PARIS.+ For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint
+ Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
+ junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358.
+
+ {220}{129}
+ +ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES.+ All the trains halt here.
+
+ {231}{118}
+ +LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the
+ eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century.
+
+ {235½}{113½}
+ +ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle
+ of Montmorillon, 15th cent.
+
+ {262}{87}
+ +ROANNE+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy,
+ well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin,
+ possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the
+ most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th
+ cent.; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built
+ by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills
+ employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is
+ £1,120,000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes
+ through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their
+ offshoots.
+
+ {282}{67}
+ +FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient
+ Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly
+ of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring,
+ called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains.
+
+ {297½}{51½}
+ +SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of
+ mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It
+ is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p. 348).
+
+ {312}{37}
+ +SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord;
+ France; both first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less
+ expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe
+ the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple
+ Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the
+ Palais de Justice, a large handsome building.
+
+ This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
+ summer, was founded by the Romans B.C. 56, and from a very early
+ period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables,
+ ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It is situated in the
+ long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One
+ long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St.
+ Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into
+ two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal squares or
+ “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected
+ by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the
+ railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the
+ Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the
+ street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill
+ behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an
+ artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some
+ of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure
+ to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and
+ church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from
+ this convent, down the hill, passes the church of St. Etienne, built
+ in the 12th cent., containing some beautiful glass, and a relief
+ representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne.
+
+[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES.]
+
+ A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS
+ DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture
+ Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of
+ specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
+ the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
+ separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including
+ locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The
+ centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern.
+ The most striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.”
+ On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and
+ on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
+ furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of
+ plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre
+ of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under
+ glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
+ arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although
+ most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as
+ simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting
+ posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of
+ Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this
+ room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the
+ varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the
+ silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000, employing 40,000 workmen
+ and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which 165,000 work organzines and
+ trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended for crapes and gauze
+ ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65,000 for
+ weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85
+ square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually
+ £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite
+ the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the Government, and
+ adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under
+ the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs
+ about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories
+ throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300,000 stand
+ of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne
+ is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north
+ from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de
+ la Badouillière.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHETAILLÉE.]
+
+ _Excursions._--Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large
+ hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the
+ +Gouffre d’Enfer+. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the village of
+ Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat.
+ A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10 m. from St. Etienne.
+ Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where
+ pass the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft.,
+ and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 ft.
+
+ 14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft.
+ above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers for the town,
+ 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. It is a poor place
+ with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill
+ are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water.
+ The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached
+ by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with masonry, and
+ furnished with spiral staircases.
+
+ From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus
+ starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and bathing
+ establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.
+
+ Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux, a coach
+ awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the station. The
+ bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by
+ six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron.
+
+ St. Germains is the station for Vichy (p. 358).
+
+
++Paris to Lyons by Tarare.+
+
+ Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to LYONS
+
+{ }{318}
++PARIS.+ This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. For
+time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes
+picturesque after Roanne.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROANNE.]
+
+{262}{56}
++ROANNE.+ (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the
+manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. 7000, at the foot of a hill 1525
+ft. above the sea-level, producing considerable quantities of muslin,
+calico, cotton, and linen cloth. 3 m. from Amplepuis commences the
+tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces the ridge that separates the basin of
+the Loire from the Rhône. The temperature of the Rhône basin in winter
+is rawer and colder than that of the Loire.
+
+
+[Headnote: TARARE.]
+
+{288}{30}
++TARARE+, pop. 15,000. _Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and
+unattractive manufacturing town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep
+mountains, among which is Mont Chevrier, one of the highest summits of
+the Beaujolais range. At the low end of the town is the railway station,
+and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the valley of the
+Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 ft., the
+others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs are
+employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
+especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,” a thin
+gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.
+
+
+{318}{ }
++LYONS+ (see p. 29).
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTBRISON.]
+
++Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand+,
+
+121 m. W. by GIVORS-CANAL, ST. ETIENNE, MONTBRISON, and THIERS.
+
+ At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône
+ change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
+ towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St.
+ Etienne (p. 346) a long halt is generally made. A little way up from
+ the station will be found the steam tram, which, after traversing the
+ best part of the town, returns to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons
+ and 64½ m. E. from Clermont is +Montbrison+ on the Vizezy, pop. 6700.
+ _Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings
+ occupy religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793.
+ Of these the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent
+ and church of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”
+
+ Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded in
+ 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
+ heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
+ Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
+ apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
+ windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
+ diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is
+ 206 ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E.
+ end of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo
+ IV.,” who founded the church in MCCXXIII. Opposite is the monument to
+ the jurist Vernato, d. MCCCLVIII.
+
+[Headnote: SALLE DES ETATS.]
+
+ Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des Etats (house of
+ Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 by Jean I., Comte de
+ Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de Persigny from plans by
+ Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed into the Salle de la
+ Diana (decana), from having been converted into the chapter-house of
+ the church. It now contains the library of the Diana society, who also
+ hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft. wide, and 26¼ ft.
+ high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted representations
+ of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every family that
+ has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows are modern
+ additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
+ original one.
+
+ Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
+ spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
+ carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
+ diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
+ untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
+ ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from
+ Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway
+ is the station of St. Paul (p. 30).
+
+ Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
+ after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by
+ the gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the
+ train traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle
+ by a viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W. from
+ Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from Lyons is
+
+[Headnote: THIERS.]
+
+ +Thiers+, pop. 16,500, at first a small hamlet beside a fortress
+ (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel dedicated to St. Symphorien (see
+ p. 367).
+
+ Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues,
+ Vertolaye, Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p. 89).
+
+ Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
+ Clermont-Ferrand.
+
+ 1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is
+
+ +Courty.+ Junction with line to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W.,
+ passing Vichy, 21½ m. N.
+
+[Headnote: VERTAIZON. BILLOM.]
+
+ 13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is +Vertaizon+, pop.
+ 2200, situated 1¼ m. S. from the station. Junction with branch line to
+ +Billom+, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily
+ situated town among hills crowned with ruins of castles from 12th to
+ 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th to 13th cents.
+
+ The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach +Clermont-Ferrand+
+ (see p. 369).
+
+
++Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.+
+
+ This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
+ famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire;
+ and to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See
+ Maps, pp. 1 and 27.)
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{ }{530}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
+and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first stations
+passed are Brunoy (p. 2), Melun (p. 2), and Fontainebleau (p. 3). At
+Moret, 42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes
+separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see
+p. 10.)
+
+
+{73}{457}
++MONTARGIS+, pop. 10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_
+Poste; France. The principal street leads directly from the station to
+the Hôtel de la Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about
+the old castle are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This
+castle, rebuilt by Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants
+de France,” became private property in 1809. A house has been built
+within the circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway
+still stands.
+
+The parish church is of different epochs--the nave and the aisles belong
+to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps higher, to the
+16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from which the
+groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.
+
+The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
+adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
+Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
+Paris and the south of France.
+
+10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
+Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny was
+born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst of
+the hereditary domain of the family.
+
+
+{96}{434}
++GIEN+, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and
+an important railway junction. On the hill rising from the town is the
+church of St. Pierre, flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding
+an admirable view. Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in
+1494 by Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the
+Préfecture. Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent.
+38 m. N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s
+_Normandy_).
+
+
+[Headnote: BRIARE.]
+
+{102½}{427½}
++BRIARE+, pop. 5200. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the
+Loire, where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther
+S. by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois;
+omnibus awaits passengers.
+
+
+[Headnote: COSNE.]
+
+{121}{409}
++COSNE+, pop. 7000. _Inns_: Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town,
+with ironworks of considerable importance, and still retaining parts of
+its old fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its
+junction with the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of
+which the portal and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern.
+6½ m. farther S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_
+Pointe du Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the
+sea. In the neighbourhood are important quarries.
+
+
+{138}{392}
++POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE+, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ Écu. The surrounding vineyards
+produce a famous white wine, with a peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in
+the second year, and deteriorates after the 15th.
+
+
+{141}{389}
++LA CHARITÉ+, built on a hill sloping down from the railway to the
+Loire, crossed by both a stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et
+G. Monarque; Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of
+its fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
+consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast narthex, the
+choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This church belonged
+to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to the town its
+name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the Visitandines
+(Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of St. François
+de Sales.
+
+
+[Headnote: POUGUES LES EAUX.]
+
+{150}{380}
++POUGUES LES EAUX+, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du
+Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement, and
+opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a quiet
+place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
+stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
+establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
+water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
+rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
+has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
+both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
+iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
+liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
+carbonic acid gas are employed.
+
+
+[Headnote: FOURCHAMBAULT.]
+
+{154}{376}
++FOURCHAMBAULT+, pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town,
+H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, employing above
+5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du Carrousel were cast
+here. Omnibus at station.
+
+
+[Headnote: NEVERS.]
+
+{158}{372}
++NEVERS+, pop. 20,400. _Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du
+Chemin de Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short
+distance N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is
+the nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous,
+to which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews
+with the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a
+lingering illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present
+pope had not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio
+IX. entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s _South France_, West
+Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
+covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:-- “Ici
+repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à
+Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En
+religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des
+Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de son age et la
+12me de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.”
+
+[Headnote: FAÏENCE.]
+
+Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat at
+Gergovia (p. 372) the inhabitants plundered his camp and massacred the
+soldiers. Of the old fortifications there remain the tower of the Loire,
+of which the lower part is of the 11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi,
+16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th cent.; and the Porte du Croux,
+a square tower of the 12th cent., but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an
+antiquarian museum. At the entrance into the town by the Paris road is a
+triumphal arch, erected in 1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy,
+12th May 1745, when the French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch
+forces under the Duke of Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a
+hill rising from the Loire in the midst of a flat country abounding with
+iron, giving employment to important ironworks. In the most elevated
+part is the Grande Place, with the +Palais de Justice+, formerly the
+Palais Ducal, a stately edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte
+de Nevers, but altered and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his
+successors, belonging to the families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in
+the form of a parallelogram, flanked with four towers, each containing a
+staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,” ornamented
+with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history of the
+house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old Palais de
+Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the Palais de
+Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. In the Hôtel de Ville are the
+Library, the Picture Gallery, and an interesting collection of faïence,
+which has been manufactured at Nevers for eight centuries. Faïence is
+the French term for all descriptions of glazed earthenware, and
+corresponds nearly to the English word “crockery.” The manufacture of
+majolica or enamelled pottery was introduced into France by Catherine de
+Médicis and her kinsman Louis Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta
+of Clèves in 1565, became Duke of Nevers. There are still important
+pottery works in the town.
+
+[Headnote: CASSINI.]
+
+Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
+reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
+The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
+14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
+with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
+western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
+11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
+triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
+astronomer Cassini while engaged in the triangulation of France.
+
+The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père
+was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
+chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.
+
+32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers for
+the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is hot,
+and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
+Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p. 1.)
+
+[Headnote: VARZY. CLAMECY.]
+
+Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line between
+Paris and Turin (see p. 14). On this branch line, 8¾ m. N. from Nevers,
+is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the important ironworks
+called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards of 1300 men. 24¼ m.
+farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste;
+with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents., surmounted
+by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant triforium and a
+beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of St. Eugenie. 44 m.
+S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p. 15);
+_Inns:_ Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne with
+the Beuvron. On the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of
+Jean Rouvet, the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from
+the forests is floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of
+St. Martin, 12th to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by
+Simart, a handsome organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos
+on the high altar. Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of
+the Dukes of Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the
+prison occupy one large building.
+
+22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction.
+Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p. 24).
+Branch to Le Creusot and Autun (see p. 24).
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINCAIZE.]
+
+{154}{ }
++SAINCAIZE+, 600 ft. above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W.
+(See Black’s _South France_, West Half.)
+
+
+[Headnote: MOULINS.]
+
+{195}{335}
++MOULINS+, pop. 22,000. _Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer;
+in. the town, Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
+A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along the
+banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 arches,
+and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral of Notre
+Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The façade, over
+which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with colonnettes
+of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned with
+statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
+lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
+with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
+mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
+fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
+Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration
+of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
+large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a
+prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
+of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
+houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is
+also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
+the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the Palais
+de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, Renaudan and
+Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of Henri IV., and one
+of the bravest marshals of France. He had the misfortune to draw upon
+himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the displeasure of Louis
+XIII., which led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the
+30th October 1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria
+Orsini, caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to
+the convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the
+finest Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture
+and the duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the
+public library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th
+cent, called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving
+statues, is mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: DUKE OF BERWICK. STERNE’S MARIA.]
+
+Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed some
+time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the
+Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died on
+the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
+Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, Duke
+of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James Duke of
+York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister of the great
+Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of August 1670, and
+died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the works of
+Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in Marshal
+Berwick I have seen what they are.” By the side of the Paris road, under
+a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, with
+her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
+intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
+melancholy. (See Sterne’s _Sentimental Journey_, “Maria.”)
+
+[Headnote: SOUVIGNY.]
+
+9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is +Souvigny+, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix
+d’Or. At the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
+basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
+periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
+Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of Louis II.,
+Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is that of Duc
+Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels are enclosed in
+a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the left of the
+principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of the Zodiac
+sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of the
+street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of humble
+rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to Bourbon
+l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de l’Écu). It
+stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow the traveller
+to cast a rapid glance over this pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and
+Auvergne architecture of the 11th cent. (See map, p. 1.)
+
+[Headnote: BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT-BATHS. ST. PARDOUX SPRING.]
+
++Bourbon-l’Archambault+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Close to the bathing
+establishment, the Hôtel Montespan, on the site of the house which used
+to be occupied by Madame de Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds.
+distant the Hôtel de France. On a hill at the northern side of this
+ancient town are the ruins of the once strong feudal castle of Bourbon,
+commenced by Louis I. in 1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc
+Pierre II. Four massive towers, built of stone, with projecting points,
+still remain of the twenty-four which it had originally.
+ On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
+ commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In
+ the centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which,
+ besides supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for
+ drinking and domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous,
+ easily digested, slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr.
+ One-sixth of its volume is free carbonic acid gas, besides the same
+ acid in combination with lime, magnesia, and soda; and some salts of
+ bromine, iodine, and iron. It is eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and
+ tonic, and excellent for rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula.
+ Between the bathing establishment and the church is the cold water
+ spring called the “Source de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime
+ and magnesia, chlorides of soda and magnesia, silicates of lime,
+ alumina, and soda, the carbonate of iron and the oxide of manganese.
+ The water is tonic and slightly laxative. 9½ m. S. from Bourbon is
+ +St. Pardoux+, in a wooded and hilly country, forming one of the best
+ drives from Bourbon. There is here a spring of remarkably sparkling
+ water, ⅚ths of its volume being free carbonic acid gas. It contains
+ the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, silicates of lime and
+ alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is delightful to the taste, very
+ pungent, and, owing to the presence of so much carbonic acid gas,
+ slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly diuretic, and
+ stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre bottles at
+ Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the height of her
+ power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her health, and here
+ she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast off and deserted
+ by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is Commentry (see map,
+ p. 1).
+
+ From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
+ 17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station for
+ Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin; and 41½ m.
+ E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and map, p. 1).
+
+ +Dompierre-sur-Bebre+, pop. 2230. _Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal
+ and iron found in this neighbourhood. The country is undulating and
+ well cultivated. Near the next station, Diou on the Loire, is the
+ Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th
+ cent., and now an agricultural school.
+
+[Headnote: GILLY.]
+
+ +Gilly+, station for +Bourbon-Lancy+, pop. 3300, 8¾ m. N. by the
+ Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H.
+ Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for drives can be had. The village,
+ situated on an eminence, is full of old houses, of which the best are
+ near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the valley at the foot of the
+ eminence is the suburb of +St. Leger+, with an excellent small
+ +Bathing Establishment+, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132°
+ Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
+ baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
+ chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
+ calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime
+ and magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the
+ water is the most important, but here it is the external application
+ by baths and other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of
+ nervous and cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every
+ form of rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and
+ furnished with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of
+ the water to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by
+ itself, is a swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled
+ with the mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is
+ still carried off by the underground channels constructed by the
+ Romans. At intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk
+ down to the bed of the outlet.
+
+ On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M.
+ and Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their
+ memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
+ Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the
+ establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes,
+ pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½ frs.; for a
+ lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge for the baths and
+ Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. Le Regisseur
+ des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of considerable
+ interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several important
+ cities are within a few hours by rail.
+
+ A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ H. de
+ Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal mines. 6 m. farther
+ is +Digoin+, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in the town; at the
+ station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth cent. Suspension bridge
+ across the Loire.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{220}{310}
++ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES+, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
+rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
+for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. H. du
+Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of the station is
+the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. 7 m. S. from St.
+Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is
+
+
+ [Map: Vichy]
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND THEIR CHARGES.]
+
+VICHY
+
+on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. _Hotels:_ The
+largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the most elegantly
+furnished are:--The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.; the H. Parc, 12 to 20
+frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, 12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand
+Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.
+
+The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
+furniture is not so costly.
+ The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
+ which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the Princes,
+ 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the G. H. Velay
+ et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel, Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.;
+ and H. de la Restauration. Almost adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H.
+ Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs., a smaller house. In all the above hotels,
+ excepting in the first three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs.
+ per day. The above prices include everything except the charge of
+ 1 fr. for candles at the end of the stay.
+
+ Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande
+ Grille, is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the
+ Etablissement, the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to
+ 10½ frs.; and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more
+ handsome house.
+
+ In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, *H.
+ d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally full.
+
+ In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
+ H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally by the
+ family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise the
+ Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.
+
+ In the Place Rosalie are the +Source de l’Hôpital+ and the Banque de
+ Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.
+
+ In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row
+ of houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the
+ church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ to
+ 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; H. Fénélon; H.
+ du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan same price.
+
+ In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
+ station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open all
+ the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse; H.
+ Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ frs.;
+ Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the year--all between
+ the railway station and the Etablissement.
+
+ At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel
+ Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
+ hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de
+ Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.
+
+ In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
+ the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near the
+ entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to 9 frs. and
+ the H. Palais-Royal.
+
+ There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are
+ let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service. Lodgers
+ can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, and
+ eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
+ Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame
+ resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.
+
+ Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before
+ deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue
+ de Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently
+ comfortable without being expensive.
+
+ Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
+ best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information
+ regarding the different doctors can be had.
+
+ Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September,
+ forms a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels
+ presided over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to
+ 25 frs. per day, which includes wine, service, and everything else.
+ The best situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
+ Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
+ town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
+ where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern
+ end of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise,
+ 13th and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous
+ coins have been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief
+ Vercingetorix, as well as many Roman objects belonging to all the
+ epochs of the empire. In 1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded
+ Vichy with a moat and fortified walls, within which he erected his
+ castle; but of it all that remains is the great clock-tower or
+ belfry.
+
+[Headnote: MINERAL WATER ESTABLISHMENT.]
+
+ At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
+ +Mineral Water Establishment+, composed of two large buildings--1st,
+ The “Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths;
+ a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 cabinets
+ with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on the
+ western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the
+ ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each
+ bath costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter
+ is allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs.
+ In front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring
+ Chomel, is the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers’ names and
+ for the sale of the bath tickets.
+
+ 2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
+ and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60
+ c. each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the
+ quality of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels
+ supplied. The baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from
+ the same springs. The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
+ shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
+ in a single day. They commence at 3.30 A.M. and continue till 5 P.M.,
+ but at one part of the season till even later. But it must always be
+ remembered that the external application of the water is not nearly so
+ important as the internal. Patients may visit Vichy, at any time; but
+ the season suited to follow with success the course of treatment is
+ from the 15th May till the beginning of October. The month of May is
+ sometimes rainy. August and September are generally the driest months,
+ and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. The
+ waters are taken in the morning and during the day, and baths daily or
+ every second day. For elderly people with sanguine and irritable
+ temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of the bath
+ should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.
+
+[Headnote: CASINO.]
+
+ At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the +Casino+, a handsome
+ comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
+ and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
+ park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
+ elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the
+ building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
+ theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats
+ for 800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the
+ reading, billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One
+ entrance ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every
+ morning, a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
+ A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
+ members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is
+ attached to the Casino.
+
+[Headnote: THE VICHY SPRINGS.]
+
+ +The Vichy Springs.+--The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
+ They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
+ carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
+ each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
+ eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
+ organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
+ specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees
+ best with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain
+ peculiarities which may assist him to discover the most suitable
+ spring. The maximum quantity which can be taken daily with advantage
+ is from 24 to 28 oz. The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz.,
+ taken at different times throughout the day, and not necessarily from
+ the same spring. The water may with advantage be mixed with the wine
+ taken at dinner. Carafes are filled at the springs without any charge.
+ In the shops are sold graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided
+ into three equal parts. 30 grammes equal 1 oz.
+
+ +The Springs and their peculiarities.+--Under the vestibule of the
+ principal establishment are three important springs--the Grande
+ Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan).
+
+[Headnote: GRANDE-GRILLE, CHOMEL, MESDAMES.]
+
+ +The Grande-Grille+, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
+ with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of
+ the viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
+ gravel.
+
+ The +Puits-Chomel+, 113° Fahr. The water of this spring possesses
+ marked anodyne properties, which render it very valuable whenever the
+ weakened state of the constitution or its irritability requires to be
+ moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters it contains the least
+ carbonic acid without being more difficult of digestion, and as, on
+ the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can in many cases
+ profitably replace the other springs.
+
+ +Mesdames+, 61° Fahr., highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of
+ chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and in debility following loss of blood. In
+ cases where the constitution has been weakened without any evident
+ derangement it stimulates the energy of the digestive functions so as
+ to enable the patient to recover his usual strength.
+
+ The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113°
+ Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
+ supplying the baths.
+
+[Headnote: PRUNELLE, PARC, HÔPITAL.]
+
+ About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
+ opposite the military hospital, is the +Source Prunelle+, a cold
+ spring, recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
+ A little farther E. is the +Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.+, principally
+ employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
+ beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
+ park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the +Source du Parc, 71°
+ Fahr.+, recommended for sluggish action of the digestive organs,
+ atonic derangement of the intestines, and affections of the bronchial
+ tube caused by chronic irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the
+ Casino, in front of the town hospital, is the +Source de l’Hôpital+ or
+ Rosalie, 89° Fahr., resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less
+ exciting. It is recommended to those affected with diseases of the
+ digestive organs, dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and
+ dysentery; and is particularly useful to literary men whose digestive
+ functions are deranged from mental labour. It renders important
+ service in ovarian tumours and other diseases of females.
+
+[Headnote: CELESTINS.]
+
+ A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
+ important springs, the +Sources des Celestins+, 54° and 58° Fahr., of
+ which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
+ largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
+ their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
+ springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of
+ the urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able
+ to digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with
+ either the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the
+ water of the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with
+ caution. Just beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and
+ near the Parc des Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment.
+ The water, 77° Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a
+ stimulating action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily
+ eliminated, and is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids.
+ “Stomach disorder, attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many
+ cases capable of being cured or materially relieved by the use of one
+ or other of the Vichy waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia)
+ and diminished power of the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases,
+ the Lardy and Mesdames in others, would be most likely to have a
+ beneficial effect: in other cases, where a more energetic action is
+ required, the Grande Grille would be preferable.” --_Dr. E. Lee._
+
+[Headnote: SOURCE HAUTERIVE. INFLUENCE OF VICHY WATER.]
+
+ 3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the +Source
+ Hauterive+, 57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In
+ therapeutical qualities it resembles the Celestins.
+
+ The principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
+ in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
+ dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty
+ degeneration or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are
+ so often connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally
+ serviceable in enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of
+ hypochondriasis. Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure
+ of some of the chronic diseases of women connected with disordered
+ menstruation, and for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often
+ set in at the period of life when this function ceases. “The complaint
+ for which nine-tenths of the English visitors drink these springs is
+ gout; but it should be distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a
+ specific for gout; it can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving
+ the tone of the digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and
+ correcting the abnormally acid condition of the blood.” --_Madden’s
+ Health Resorts._ “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have,
+ however, a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in
+ cases of either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or
+ internal, acute or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in
+ the interval of attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack.
+ If too near the last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there
+ is almost as much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its
+ action in a crisis.” --_Dr. Daumas._ “We may then sum up the effects
+ of a Vichy course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the
+ digestive and assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general
+ health. The tone of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes
+ easier and more rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The
+ bile flows more freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if
+ previously present, ceases. The consequence of these changes is better
+ assimilation, and therefore flesh is often gained. With the
+ improvement in nutrition the colour returns to the cheeks and energy
+ to the mind.” --_Dr. P. James._
+
+
+ CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE PRINCIPAL SPRINGS.
+
+ GG Grande Grille P Park
+ Ch Chomel H Hopital
+ Md Mesdammes Ce Celestins
+ L Lucas Hr Haute-rive
+
+ +------------------+------------------------------------------------+
+ | Acids and Bases | NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. |
+ | contained in +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | each litre. | GG | Ch | Md | L | P | H | Ce | Hr |
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ |Carbonic Acid |4.418|4.429|5.029 |5.348|5.071|4.719|4.705|5.640|
+ |Sulphuric „ | .164| .164| .141 | .164| .177| .164| .164| .164|
+ |Phosphoric „ | .070| .038|traces| .038| .076| .025| .050| .625|
+ |Arsenic „ | .001| .001| .002 | .001| .001| .001| .001| .001|
+ |Hydrochloric Acid | .332| .334| .222 | .324| .344| .324| .234| .334|
+ |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
+ |Protoxide of Iron | .002| .002| .012 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .008|
+ |Lime | .169| .169| .235 | .212| .239| .222| .180| .168|
+ |Strontia | .002| .002| .002 | .008| .003| .003| .003| .002|
+ |Magnesia | .097| .108| .134 | .088| .068| .064| .105| .160|
+ |Potash | .182| .192| .098 | .146| .151| .228| .163| .098|
+ |Soda |2.488|2.536|1.957 |2.501|2.500|2.500|2.560|2.368|
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | TOTALS |7.997|8.043|7.866 |8.877|8.687|8.302|8.327|9.039|
+ | | | | | | | | | |
+ | Saline | | | | | | | | |
+ | ingredients | | | | | | | | |
+ | in each litre. | | | | | | | | |
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ |Free Carbonic Acid| .908| .768|1.908 |1.751|1.555|1.067|1.049|2.183|
+ |Bicarb. of Soda |4.883|5.091| 4.016|5.004|4.857|5.029|5.103|4.687|
+ | „ Potash | .352| .371| .185 | .282| .292| .440| .315| .189|
+ | „ Magnesia | .303| .338| .429 | .275| .213| .200| .328| .501|
+ | „ Strontia | .303| .003| .003 | .005| .005| .005| .005| .003|
+ | „ Lime | .434| .427| .604 | .545| .614| .570| .462| .432|
+ | „ Protox. of Iron| .004| .004| .026 | .004| .004| .004| .004| .017|
+ |Sulphate of Soda | .291| .291| .250 | .291| .314| .291| .291| .291|
+ |Phosphate | .130| .070|traces| .070| .140| .046| .091| .046|
+ |Arseniate | .002| .002| .003 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .002|
+ |Chloride of Sodium| .534| .534| .355 | .518| .550| .518| .534| .534|
+ |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
+ | +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | TOTALS |7.914|7.959|7.811 |8.797|8.601|8.222|8.244|8.956|
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+
+ The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
+ slightly from the Célestins.
+
+ In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
+ spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.
+
+
++Excursions.+
+
+ CAB FARES.--The course within the town from 6 A.M. to 12 P.M. with 1
+ horse, 1½ fr.; 2 horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first
+ hour, 3 frs., and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.;
+ the day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the
+ following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, 25
+ frs.
+
+ Art. 17--The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is always
+ fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the entire
+ hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.
+
+ Art. 18.--The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
+ rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES. CUSSET.]
+
+ For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
+ beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
+ Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, 7 frs.;
+ 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and back, from
+ Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, and
+ Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2
+ horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20
+ frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 frs.; 2 horses,
+ 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To
+ Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, 18 frs.; 2
+ horses, 24 frs.
+
+ +Cusset+, pop. 6200, on the Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du
+ Centre, in the Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At
+ the entrance into the town is the +Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie+,
+ a neat building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked
+ with turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth,
+ both cold. The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the
+ afternoon only 1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as
+ those of Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.
+
+ From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take the
+ road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, but
+ walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
+ called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the
+ extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into
+ a miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the
+ prettiest part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment
+ rooms. Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually
+ widens and flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and
+ on the Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a
+ castle said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission,
+ 1 fr. each.
+
+[Headnote: MONTAGNE-VERTE.]
+
+ 2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
+ ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a
+ good view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk
+ in the neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the
+ cemetery.
+
+ +Vichy to Busset+ by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return by St.
+ Yorre, where the rail may be taken.
+
+[Headnote: GRIVATS.]
+
+ The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of
+ the Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous
+ for the manufacture of the Toiles de Vichy, called also Grivats,
+ a variegated cotton stuff used for gowns and petticoats. The best
+ quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ fr. the mètre (1⅛ yard); the
+ inferior qualities, made chiefly at Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr.
+ the mètre. At Grivats they are all made by handlooms in the houses of
+ the weavers. Among the best shops in Vichy for this article is that of
+ Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de l’Hôpital.
+
+ From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country,
+ reaches the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S.
+ from Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned
+ slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The
+ favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the
+ Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy
+ rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers
+ on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive
+ view.
+
+[Headnote: BUSSET.]
+
+ The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
+ Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this road.
+ Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the
+ Château Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission
+ readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset,
+ on the E. side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail
+ may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N.
+
+ Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and
+ the village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the
+ ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent,
+ the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time
+ required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.
+
+[Headnote: RANDAN. VESSE-INTERMITTENT-SPRING.]
+
+ +Vichy to Randan.+--Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
+ A.M.; arrives at Randan at 1 P.M.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back
+ to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is
+ open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by
+ Maulmont costs 3½ frs.
+
+ The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
+ hand a small house with the sign SOURCE INTERMITTENTE. In the garden
+ is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every
+ 6 or 7½ hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of
+ 16 ft. above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30
+ minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it
+ contains. Admission, 25 c.
+
+ From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of
+ the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois
+ Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
+ extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
+ belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
+ several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame
+ Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little chapel,
+ and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E.
+ through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by
+ Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery
+ of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the
+ suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by
+ rail or by the high road along the E. side of the river.
+
+[Headnote: ST. YORRE. RIS.]
+
+ +Vichy to Thiers+ by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from
+ Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water
+ establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water,
+ which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.
+
+ The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5 m.
+ from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the station
+ the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
+ bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The broad
+ road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E.
+ It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the
+ principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles
+ and nave and semicircular apse.
+
+[Headnote: CHATELDON. THIERS.]
+
+ For +Chateldon+, 3¼ m. S.E. from station, take the road that follows
+ the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting
+ than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron,
+ surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the “Place” is the
+ principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach
+ starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the
+ mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the
+ side of the Vauziron.
+
+ +Maringues+ is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de
+ Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.
+
+ 23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
+ +Thiers+, pop. 16,230. _Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near
+ each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also
+ approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous
+ country.
+
+ Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
+ built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
+ above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.”
+ At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
+ the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
+ different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
+ surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The
+ manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the
+ inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in
+ the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the
+ part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the
+ foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers,
+ of the 11th cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th.
+ From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle
+ to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left
+ is St. Jean, 14th cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St.
+ Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently
+ restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a
+ fresco, 16th cent., representing Mary among angels entering heaven.
+ The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of
+ Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de
+ la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest
+ are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the
+ Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are
+ those of Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From
+ Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St.
+ Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty
+ mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After
+ leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source.
+ 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see
+ below).
+
+ Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
+ Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.
+
+[Headnote: GANNAT. AIGUEPERSE.]
+
+ The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to
+ Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
+ unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous
+ Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his
+ creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now
+ partially restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont,
+ is +Aigueperse+, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs between
+ Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the
+ railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of Charmeil on
+ the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon
+ drive.
+
+ 2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of
+ the Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and
+ most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old
+ houses.
+
+ 17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on
+ the Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th cent.)
+ on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346).
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{224}{ }
++SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT+, 867 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+{235½}{294½}
++GANNAT+, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on
+the Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of
+St. Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
+good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
+by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
+Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
+Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
+the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
+Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s _Normandy, Brittany, and
+Touraine_.
+
+
+{242}{288}
++AIGUEPERSE+, pop. 2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest
+building is the Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in
+a convent of the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station
+goes to Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful
+castle of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in 1822 by Mme.
+Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest of Randan, is
+another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the Middle Ages. See
+under excursions from Vichy.
+
+
+[Headnote: RIOM.]
+
+{253}{277}
++RIOM+, 1105 ft. above the sea, pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H. Paris; Poste;
+Puy-de-Dome. Diligences to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.;
+and to Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is
+St. Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each
+pier having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is
+the same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near
+St. Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few
+15th and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge,
+is the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
+Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
+choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
+called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.
+
+ 20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A.M., are the mineral
+ baths of +Châteauneuf+, pop. 1000. _Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier.
+ Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60° to 102°
+ Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous
+ affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings.
+ Bath, 1 fr.
+
+ 5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of
+ Châtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_
+ Bains; Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment
+ with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the
+ bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp.
+ 100° Fahr.
+
+ 3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava.
+ Visit the church, the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the
+ lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see
+ p. 377).
+
+
+[Headnote: CLERMONT-FERRAND.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{260½}{269½}
++CLERMONT-FERRAND+, 1335 ft. above the sea, pop. 43,000, on an eminence
+crowned by the cathedral, of which the principal façade, the west
+entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, while the chancel or eastern
+end is towards the railway station. _Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are
+the *Univers; *Poste, for commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de
+Jaude are the Paix; France. All the above are large houses. Near the
+Académie and the Botanic Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good
+house. Among the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
+Voyageurs. Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St.
+Amand, and Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the
+Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a large cabstand and
+offices where carriages may be hired for excursions.
+
+[Headnote: POST OFFICE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side
+of the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there
+is a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem
+is a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
+A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is the
+Temple Protestant, service 1 P.M. The first narrow street beyond the
+post office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.
+
+Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moist
+and crystalline (glacé) state.
+
+The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the
+9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volvic
+lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on the
+N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or,
+including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which rise
+nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above,
+the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on four
+fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towards
+the apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches ⅓
+narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave dates
+from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, having been injured by
+a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N.
+transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S.
+transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its three
+men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Ten
+chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is a
+miracle-working image of Mary and Child.
+
+The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
+Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
+principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
+to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
+is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
+shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
+born.
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DU PORT.]
+
+The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
+Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. The
+large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
+Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
+these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port,
+built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866,
+according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. The
+exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes,
+while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns in
+mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower.
+
+In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round the
+nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitals
+sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
+surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
+less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
+massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
+window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
+ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.
+
+Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
+Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
+and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
+when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
+which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
+miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
+for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
+Mary.
+
+It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. and
+Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake the
+first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediate
+inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of God!” which
+words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of the
+Crusaders.
+
+The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide Rue
+Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
+Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
+the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
+Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.
+
+[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
+
+Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable part
+is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit trees
+and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a small
+aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made at
+Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easily
+on the stomach.
+
+[Headnote: ROMAGNAT.]
+
+3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M. Rognon,
+1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., the site of the
+principal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended by
+Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, whom he
+compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
+supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
+Les Laumes, p. 19.)
+
+Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
+Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;
+or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
++Baraque+, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.
+
+The +Puy-de-Dome+ is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater,
+and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough
+spongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of
+which the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named
+domite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often
+friable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed
+trachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The
+most perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the
+Nid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory,
+connected with the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are
+also the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a
+Gallo-Roman temple to Mercury.
+
+For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see
+p. 376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty
+(where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal
+(see p. 349).
+
+From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the
+Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are very
+picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le Cendre, 1145
+ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; 272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164
+ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the
+town is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux,
+13th cent.
+
+
+[Headnote: ISSOIRE.]
+
+{282½}{247½}
++ISSOIRE+, pop. 6400, and 1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste;
+Pezissat; opposite each other in the principal street. It is a clean
+little town. The principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a
+highly interesting specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
+exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
+sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
+elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
+characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of
+differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
+chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
+Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
+painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
+eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
+below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
+complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
+altar.
+
+
+[Headnote: LE BREUIL.]
+
+{287¾}{242¼}
++LE BREUIL+, 1287 ft., pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H. Beranger.
+Coaches await passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town,
+2 m. W., and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a
+hilly and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain,
+a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
+carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
+ 2½ m. farther is +Ardes+; _Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence
+ rising from the Couze. In the low part of the village is the church,
+ 11th cent., but restored and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone
+ cross (1519) with Mary and Child against it, resting on a
+ demure-looking figure holding an open book. The valley of the Couze,
+ between high wooded mountains and great basaltic cliffs, offers an
+ excellent field for geological and botanical rambles, while the river
+ itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot of the mountains,
+ through little meadows by the side of the road, contains excellent
+ trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below are apricot,
+ apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed among small
+ vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic formation is
+ between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, perched on a
+ basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way beyond, on the right
+ or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff resembling a
+ statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About 4½ m. up the
+ valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed by lightning in
+ 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest and most
+ imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About 5 m.
+ up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of St.
+ Pesade.
+
+ 2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral
+ waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
+ Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. above
+ the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
+ clay.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARVANT.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{298}{232}
++ARVANT+, 1400 ft., a dirty hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of
+the Allier. The best of the inns is the H. Voyageurs. Junction here with
+the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing the whole of the
+interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See Black’s _South
+France_, West Half.)
+
+From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences the
+loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
+woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
+and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
+between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from Neussargues,
+7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from Marvejols, is the highest
+bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine of
+the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The span of the great arch is 541½
+ft., and the length of the viaduct 1851 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: BRIOUDE.]
+
+{304}{226}
++BRIOUDE+, 1430 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce.
+A dirty town on a tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church
+St. Julien (restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade,
+of red sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three
+portals. The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain
+buttresses, over which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the
+church is another portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large
+semicircular arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns
+bearing large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance,
+but plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in
+the two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
+lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
+cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
+chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
+stones.
+
+The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
+with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
+capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
+triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
+profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
+beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.
+
+Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Hôtel
+de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC.]
+
+{318½}{211½}
++ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC+, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, near
+the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for St. Etienne
+54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: LANGEAC.]
+
+{323}{207}
++LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map
+p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the train passes through a most
+picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast masses of basalt,
+either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonal
+columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between vertical
+cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried past
+in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000,
+on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains of
+the old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at the
+next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. from Langeac, is an interesting church,
+11th cent., against a rock. Then follow the stations of
+Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91); Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure,
+2238 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: LANGOGNE.]
+
+{364½}{165½}
++LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc;
+Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt
+here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m. farther S. is Luc
+station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La Bastide, 3070 ft., the
+culminating point of the line. A few miles to the W. of the station is
+the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, 6 m. S., the station is only
+2580 ft. above the sea. The line now passes by immense rocks and cliffs
+of granite.
+
+
+{390}{140}
++VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft., pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a
+deep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for
+Mende, passing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.
+
+ +Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
+ A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
+ Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
+ unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in
+ rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
+ neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
+ plenty of game on the mountains.
+
+From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country
+by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the two
+stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc
+mines commence which extend to Alais.
+
+
+[Headnote: ALAIS.]
+
+{419}{111}
++ALAIS+, pop. 22,000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg;
+Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and
+Tamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is the
+best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozère,
+traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some very
+capital wine is made at Alais.
+
+Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to Teil (see
+p. 96, and map p. 56); also to Laudun, 35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map
+p. 56).
+
+
+{450}{80}
++NÎMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{467}{63}
++TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{470}{60}
++ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{499½}{30½}
++ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{512½}{17½}
++ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{518}{12}
++PAS-DES-LANCIERS.+
+
+
+{530}{ }
++MARSEILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123).
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART.]
+
+ miles from CLERMONT
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
++Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+,
+
+122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic 12½ m.,
+Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La
+Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m.,
+Meymac 73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. N.E. from
+Brive.
+
+From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the
+highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
+station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
+adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
+Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher
+up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded
+in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and
+fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low
+tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the
+small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt
+supported on six colonnettes.
+
+In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
+J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The
+narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the
+Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs
+of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to
+flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to
+Clermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing the
+Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the
+valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the
+bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most
+important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment;
+temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate of
+sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a
+little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1½
+fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.
+
+Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment
+the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-class
+houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre;
+Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m.
+from Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalières. A great variety
+of excursions in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+ miles from CLERMONT
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{5}{117}
++DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains.
+
+
+[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD.]
+
+{12½}{109½}
++VOLVIC.+ In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries of
+lava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft.
+Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent view
+of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on
+an eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Bannière. The parish church
+dates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are
+the principal industries (see p. 369).
+
+The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches
+20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m.
+distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await
+passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the
+Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater
+of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important
+argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE.]
+
+{40½}{81½}
++LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. above the sea. Change here for
+Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The
+beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore passes through at about halfway
+the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above the sea. Immediately below Le
+Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule passes through the village of
+St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.
+
+
++MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+
+
+ is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the
+ Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._--Considering the style of
+ their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
+ the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
+ coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
+ difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
+ the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
+ Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc
+ and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
+ rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be
+ considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are
+ apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat;
+ H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; H.
+ Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
+ handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
+ the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
+ Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
+ other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.
+
+ The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
+ adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
+ treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
+ within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
+ Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the
+ usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
+ two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
+ bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
+ temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises
+ in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the
+ Source César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the
+ left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used
+ at table mixed with the wine.
+
+ Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
+ little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow
+ in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others
+ are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act
+ upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate
+ arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.
+
+ The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
+ month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
+ July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs
+ then 2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
+ Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
+ 109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
+ in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the
+ sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
+ tickets bought at the office of the baths.
+
+ [Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule.]
+
+[Headnote: ANALYSIS OF THE WATER.]
+
+ CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE.
+
+ MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring.
+ PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring.
+ RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perrière and
+ Choussy Springs.
+
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+ | | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS |
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+ |Free carbonic |0.3552 |0.3810 |0.3644 |0.5967 |0.4997 |0.0518 |
+ | acid gas | | | | | | |
+ |Bicarbonate |0.5362 |0.5452 |0.5375 |0.5361 |0.5362 |2.8920 |
+ | of soda | | | | | | |
+ | „ of potash |0.0309 |0.0309 |0.0232 |0.0212 |0.0212 | .... |
+ | „ of lime |0.3423 |0.3142 |0.3092 |0.3209 |0.2720 |0.1905 |
+ | „ of magnesia |0.1757 |0.1676 |0.1628 |0.1676 |0.1647 | .... |
+ | „ of protoxide |0.0207 |0.0235 |0.025 |0.0258 |0.0317 |0.0021 |
+ | of iron | | | | | | |
+ |Chloride of Sodium|0.3685 |0.3630 |0.3599 |0.3587 |0.3578 |2.8406 |
+ |Sulphate of soda |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0756 |0.0737 |0.2084 |
+ |Arseniate of soda |0.00096|0.00096|0.00096|0.0009 |0.00095|0.02847|
+ |Silicic acid |0.1654 |0.1686 |0.1653 |0.1552 |0.1550 |0.1200 |
+ |Alumina |0.0112 |0.0094 |0.0101 |0.0083 |0.0065 |Traces.|
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+
+ Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
+ potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both
+ waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29
+ times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore.
+ The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or
+ 27° above the hottest of Mont-Dore.
+
+ These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
+ asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
+ marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
+ nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden’s _Health
+ Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily
+ by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and
+ is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this is
+ mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently
+ lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of
+ the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the
+ saturation point has been obtained. --Lee’s _Baths_.
+
+ As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing
+ is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20
+ to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH.]
+
+ _Excursions._--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around
+ Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests
+ and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen
+ waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against
+ the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the
+ craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls
+ over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The
+ Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of
+ finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the
+ different places.
+
+ One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du
+ Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way
+ between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most
+ beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from
+ Lake Guéry (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls.
+ The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue,
+ tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls
+ of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the
+ falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of
+ Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion
+ may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.
+
+ Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
+ made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1¾ m., and
+ to the Pré du Barbier.
+
+[Headnote: LAKE GUÉRY.]
+
+ The excursion to Lake Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to
+ Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a
+ turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a
+ charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To
+ the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the
+ Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy.
+ Lake Guéry, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W.
+ from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged
+ peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile,
+ stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one
+ side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right
+ the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of
+ the Giant’s Causeway.
+
+[Headnote: ORCIVAL.]
+
+ 4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an
+ inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous
+ image found near it under the earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is
+ the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From
+ Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.
+
+ N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
+ 5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in
+ an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient
+ camp.
+
+ 9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
+ menhirs.
+
+ The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. E.
+ from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
+ less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.
+
+ From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by
+ Lake Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a
+ bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see
+ p. 381).
+
+ To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the
+ cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the
+ top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385).
+
+[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN.]
+
+ The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+,
+ 6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore,
+ and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary.
+ Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From
+ the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on
+ the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
+ shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
+ landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
+ little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890
+ ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer,
+ separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte.
+ Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft.
+ above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where
+ the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a
+ serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the
+ foot leads to an old alum mine.
+
+ The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course
+ of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having
+ crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in
+ the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. charged
+ for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about
+ 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
+ highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
+ great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in
+ circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
+ granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
+ the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin
+ des Crètes.
+
+ 3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet
+ on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a
+ miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
+ the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at
+ Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried
+ between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on
+ the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or
+ 10¼ m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928
+ ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full
+ to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep,
+ completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs
+ from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on
+ this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At
+ the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular
+ cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen,
+ supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
+
+ 3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
+ Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_
+ Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
+ neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
+ contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates,
+ one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre
+ of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it
+ is converted into shops and dwellings.
+
+[Headnote: MUROLS.]
+
+ From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the
+ highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses
+ beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil,
+ St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_
+ Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle,
+ many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone
+ of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a
+ formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence
+ of the lords of Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired
+ tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor,
+ Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes,
+ the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore,
+ passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625
+ ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne.
+ A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the
+ lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite
+ mountain.
+
+ The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back
+ is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and
+ Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
+
+[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLÉE D’ENFER.]
+
+ A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as
+ well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the
+ pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having
+ reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the
+ road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a
+ few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the
+ inscription: “Petit Chemin du Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it
+ divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open
+ space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the
+ left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the
+ road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which
+ divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du
+ Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore,
+ commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle,
+ like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather
+ difficult to ascend.
+
+ To go to the +Vallée d’Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the
+ Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long,
+ near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the
+ opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on
+ horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid
+ narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical
+ dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or
+ return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N.
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES.]
+
+BOURBOULE.
+
+ 8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
+ the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
+ ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to
+ the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
+ Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
+ especial virtue--the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
+ milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is
+ at Mont-Dore.
+
+ _Hotels._--Around the principal establishment, called the
+ Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers;
+ Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de ¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris;
+ ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc
+ de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also
+ the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.
+
+ At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste;
+ Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.
+
+ Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to
+ let.
+
+ The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with
+ first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in
+ which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of
+ August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room
+ and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra.
+ Service, ½ to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From
+ the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to
+ the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should
+ bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.
+
+ The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed
+ upon beforehand it will be much the same.
+
+ The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three
+ bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des
+ Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the
+ side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and
+ Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement
+ Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part
+ of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.
+
+ In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
+ 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to
+ the 30th September, 2½ frs.
+
+ In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the
+ Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.
+
+ The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
+ in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.
+
+ The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
+ or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including
+ the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays
+ double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.
+
+
+[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
+
++The Springs.+
+
+ Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
+ right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
+ in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and
+ Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru
+ bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap
+ the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92
+ ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground,
+ a temperature of 140° F.
+
+ These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
+ discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are
+ the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central,
+ 104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two
+ springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64°
+ F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others,
+ are drunk with wine at dinner.
+
+
++Their Constituents and Effects.+
+
+ Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of
+ a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly
+ one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride
+ of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
+ arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these
+ waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of
+ the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested
+ development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and
+ other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as
+ enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases
+ of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more
+ especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule
+ claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they
+ arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as
+ the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary
+ consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic
+ bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters.
+
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+
++Bourboule Excursions.+
+
+ On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that
+ it is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the Cascade du
+ Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. from
+ Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. from
+ the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit of the Puy Gros,
+ 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from the village of St.
+ Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of these places are between
+ Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
+
+ The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially
+ to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid
+ specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right
+ or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix
+ path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses
+ the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of
+ junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont
+ Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the
+ Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the
+ Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout
+ way, but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
+ into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin.
+ A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
+ cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
+ 2¼ m. from Bourboule.
+
+ On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule and
+ 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the summit of the Puy
+ Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT-NECTAIRE.]
+
++Mont-Dore to Issoire+,
+
+31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m.
+Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E. The
+Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup
+and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and
+traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at
++Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas+, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_
+Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.
+
+N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large
+bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_
+Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and
+stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and are recommended
+for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, and gout. The
+specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In
+Mont Cornadore are large caves.
+
+ The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen
+ of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a
+ dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m.
+ distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
+ Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
+ Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be
+ ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by
+ the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with
+ caves, 3 m. from Issoire (p. 372).
+
+
++Continuation of Route--Clermont to Brive.+
+
+14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68 m.
+N.E. from Brive, is +Eyguirande+, pop. 1150. Junction here with
+loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S., passing
+Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West Half).
+
+31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is +Meymac+, pop. 3200, on the
+Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications.
+Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to
+Limoges. (See _South France_, West Half.)
+
+[Headnote: TULLE. BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE.]
+
+16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is +Tulle+, pop.
+15,500, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms
+and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called
+tulle.
+
+122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from
+Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is +Brive-la-Gaillarde+, pop.
+12,000, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _South
+France_, West Half).
+
+
+ * * * * *
+ * * * *
+ * * * * *
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+ ABRIES 344
+ Acqui 184
+ Agay 147
+ Aiguebelle 289
+ Aigueperse 368
+ Aigues-Mortes 73
+ Aiguilles 344
+ Aime 321
+ Aix-en-Provence 78, 338
+ · olive oil 79
+
+ +Aix+-les-Bains 283
+ ---- to Geneva by Annecy 286
+ Alacoque, M. M. 27
+ Alais 375
+ Alan 49
+ Alassio 208
+ Albenga 208
+ Albertville 320
+ ---- to Annecy 320
+ Albissóla 210
+ Alesia 19
+
+ Alessandria 280
+ Alise-St. Reine 19
+ Allègre 89
+ Allevard-les-Bains 336
+ Allos 339
+ Alvernia 279
+ Alzon 105
+ Amberieux 281
+ Ambert 91
+ Amplepuis 348
+ Ampuis 81
+ · wine 81
+
+ Amyot, Jacques 3
+ Ancy-le-Franc 18
+ Annecy 286
+ Annonay 81
+ Antibes 154, 169
+ Antraigues 94
+ Apricale 201
+ Aps 97
+ Apt 66
+ · preserves 66
+ Aramon 99
+ Arenzano 211
+ Ardèche, sketch of 45
+ ---- coaches to 45
+ ---- map of 46
+ Ardes 373
+ Arezzo 279
+ Arfeuilles 346
+ Arlanc 90
+
+ Arles 68, 376
+ · to Fontvieille 71
+ · to Port Bouc 72
+ · to Port St. Louis 72
+ · to St. Gilles 72
+
+ Arma 207
+ Arsac 86
+ Artemart 282
+ Arvant 373
+ Aspres 48, 345
+ Astet 89
+ Asti 280
+ Aubagne 122
+ Aubenas 93
+ Aups 145, 167
+ Auribeau 156
+ Autun 24
+ Auxerre 14
+ Avallon 16
+ Avenza 222
+
+ +Avignon+ 58
+ · Benezet’s bridge 63
+ · ---- tomb 62
+ · Hotels 58
+ · Hôtel de Ville 61
+ · J. S. Mill’s tomb 63
+ · Laura’s tomb 62
+ · Musée Calvet 61
+ · Museum of Natural History 62
+ · Notre Dame des Doms 60
+ · Popes’ palace 58
+ · Rocher des Doms 60
+ · St. Agricol 61
+ · St. Didier 62
+ · St. Joseph 62
+ · St. Nicolas 63
+ · St. Pierre 62
+ · to Manosque by Cavaillon 66
+ · to Nîmes 64
+ · to Vaucluse 64
+ · to Villeneuve 63
+
+ BAGNOLES-LES-BAINS 375
+ Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99
+ Bains 91
+ Balaruc 76
+ Bandols 123
+ Banges 285
+ Bar 163
+ Barcelonnette 341
+ · to Cuneo 341
+ · to St. Paul 341
+
+ Bardonnechia 291
+ Barjols 143, 167
+ Barrème 166
+ Baths--Acqui 184
+ ---- Aix-les-Bains 283
+ ---- Aix-en-Provence 78
+ ---- Allevard 336
+ ---- Bagnols 375
+ ---- Balaruc 76
+ ---- Bourboule 383
+ ---- Bourbon-Lancy 358
+ ---- Bourbon l’Archambault 357
+ ---- Challes 284, 288
+ ---- Châteauneuf 369
+ ---- Châtelguyon 369
+ ---- Chateldon 367
+ ---- Cusset 365
+ ---- Foncaude 75
+ ---- Gréoulx 168
+ ---- La Motte 327
+ ---- Lucca 230
+ ---- Marlioz 284
+ ---- Mont-Dore 378
+ ---- Neyrac 94
+ ---- Pougues-les-Eaux 352
+ ---- Royat 376
+ ---- Sail 348
+ ---- St. Alban 348
+ ---- St. Galmier 348
+ ---- St. Giuliano 227
+ ---- St. Honoré 354
+ ---- St. Mart 377
+ ---- St. Nectaire 385
+ ---- Uriage 336
+ ---- Valdieri 181, 182
+ ---- Vals 103
+ ---- Vichy 359
+ ---- Vinadio 183
+
+ Beage, Le 84
+ Beaucaire 67
+ Beauchastel 82
+ Beaufort 46
+ Beaujolais 29
+ Beaulieu 184
+ Beaune 23
+ Beaurières 48
+ Beausset 123
+
+ Bec-de-l’Homme 331
+ Becket, Thomas à 11, 15, 17
+ Bedoin 56
+ Belgentier 129
+ Bellentre 321
+ Belleville 29
+ Belvedère 181
+ Berarde 330
+ Berlingots 56
+
+ Bernadette Soubirous 353
+ Berre 77
+ Bersezio 342
+ Bessée 344
+ ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 344
+ Besse-en-Chandesse 381
+ Beza, T. 15
+ Billom 350
+ Blaizy-Bas 20
+ Bobbio 306
+ Bogliasco 219
+ Boileau 2
+ Bollène 50
+
+ +Bologna+ 315
+ · Accademia 315
+ · Ai Servi (church), 318
+ · Annunziata 320
+ · Biblioteca Communale 318
+ · Bolognese school 315
+ · Cabs 315
+ · Certosa 320
+ · Galvani 316
+ · Guido’s grave 319
+ · Madonna di S. Luca 320
+ · Mezzofanti 316
+ · Pal. Mercanzia 318
+ · Pal. Zampieri 318
+ · Picture gallery 315
+ · S. Bartolommeo 318
+ · S. Domenico 319
+ · S. G. Maggiore 316
+ · S. Petronio 317
+ · S. Pietro 319
+ · S. Stefano 318
+ · S. Vitale 319
+ · Torre Asinelli 317
+ · Torre Garisenda 317
+ · University 316
+ Bondonneau 49
+
+ +Bordighera+ 200
+ Bormes 142
+ Borne 89
+ Bossuet, J. B. 22
+ Bouillabaisse 113
+ Boulerie 147
+ Bourbon-Lancy baths 358
+ Bourbon-l’Archambault baths 357
+
+ +Bourboule+ 383
+ Bourdeaux 47
+ Bourg-Argental 81
+ Bourg-d’Oisans 329
+ ---- to Lac Blanc 329
+ ---- to the Ecrin group 329
+ Bourgoin 322
+ Bourg-St. Andeol 97
+ Bourg-St. Maurice 321
+ Breuil, Le 373
+ Briançon 332
+ ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345
+ ---- to Oulx 333
+ Briare 352
+ Brignoles 142, 167
+ Brillane 339
+ Brioude 374
+ Brive 386
+ Brogny 287
+ Brunoy 2
+ Buffon, Comte de 18
+ Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24
+ Busalla 279
+ Bussoleno 291
+
+ CAGNES 165
+ Callian 162
+ Camaldoli 278
+ Camargue 70, 72
+ Campo-Rosso 201
+
+ +Cannes+ 149
+ · Agents 149
+ · Adalbert 151, 159
+ · Antibes 154
+ · Auribeau 156
+ · Banks 151
+ · Brougham, Lord 151, 155
+ · Cabs 151
+ · Californie 152
+ · Canal 152, 162
+ · Cannet 154
+ · Castelaras 156
+ · Cemetery 152
+ · Churches 151
+ · Clausonne 154
+ · Climate 151
+ · Corniche 152
+ · Croisette, La 154
+ · Croix des Gardes 155
+ · Drives 152
+ · Estérels 155
+ · Hesperide 154
+ · Hotels and Pensions 149
+ · Iron Mask 157
+ · Lerins Islands 156
+ · Mont Vinaigre 156
+ · Mouans-Sartoux 156
+ · Mougins 156
+ · Napoule 154
+ · N. D. d’Esperance 151
+ · Observatories 151, 152
+ · Pegomas 156
+ · Pottery 153
+ · St. Anne 151
+ · St. Cassien 155
+ · St. Honorat 158
+ · St. Marguerite 157
+ · Théoule 155
+ · Vallauris 153
+
+ Carnoules 142
+ Carpentras 54
+
+ +Carqueyranne+ 141
+ · Mont Negre 141
+ · Mont Paradis 141
+
+ Carrara 222
+ Casset, Le 332
+ Cassini, G. D. 201
+ Castellane 165
+ Castellaro 206
+ Cavaillon 66
+ Cayres 88
+ Celles-les-Bains 83
+ Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354
+ Certosa 184
+ Cervo 208
+ Cesanne 333
+ Cette 75
+ ---- to Balaruc 76
+ Chablis 14
+ Chabons 323
+ Chagny 24, 355
+ Chaise-Dieu 89
+ Challes 284, 288
+ Chalon-sur-Saône 26
+ Chambertin 23
+ Chambery 287
+ Chambon 380
+ Champeix 385
+ Charenton 2
+ Charmes 82
+ Charmettes, Les 288
+ Châteauneuf (Riom) 369
+ Châteauroux 343
+ Châtelard, Le 285
+ Chateldon 367
+ Châtelguyon 369
+ Châtillon 47
+ Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282
+ Châtillon-sur-Loing 351
+ Châtillon-sur-Loire 352
+ Chavanay 81
+ Cheilard 83
+ Chenal 341
+ Chiavari 220
+ Chiomonte 291
+ Chorges 342
+ Cirque-d’Annibal 321
+ Citeaux abbey 23
+ Claix 328, 345
+ Clamecy 354, 15
+ Clelles 345
+
+ +Clermont-Ferrand+ 369
+ · Academie 371
+ · Botanic gardens 371
+ · Cathedral 370
+ · Coaches 370
+ · Hotels 369
+ · Notre Dame 371
+ · Pascal’s house 370
+ · Peter the Hermit 371
+ · Preserved fruits 370
+ · Puy de Dome 372
+ · Romagnat 372
+ · to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376
+ · to Lyons by St. Etienne 349
+
+ Cluny 27
+ Cogoleto 210
+ Cogolin 145
+ Col Abriés 307
+ ---- Braus 183
+ ---- Brouis 183
+ ---- Cabres 48
+ ---- Cerise 181
+ ---- Chavade 89
+ ---- Croix 306
+ ---- Finestra 181
+ ---- Fremamorta 181
+ ---- Lautaret 331
+ ---- Longet 341
+ ---- Maddalena 342
+ ---- Maure 339
+ ---- Moulières 181
+ ---- Muselle 330
+ ---- Mulo 342
+ ---- Ribeyret 51
+ ---- Sestrières 307
+ ---- Tenda 183
+ ---- Traversette 308, 344
+ Colla, La 202
+ Colmars 339
+ Collobrières 130
+ Columbus 211
+ Condamine-Châtelard 342
+ Condamine, La 189
+
+ Condrieu 81
+ · wine 81
+ Cornigliano 212
+ Corps 334
+ Correggio 313
+ Corsena 230
+ Cosne 352
+ Cote d’Or 22
+ Coupe-d’Aizac 94
+ Courmayeur 322
+ Courpière 91
+ Courty 350
+ Craponne 89
+ Cravant 14, 355
+ Crest 46
+ ---- to Aspres 47
+ Crissolo 308, 344
+ Croisière, La 50
+ Croix Blanche 105
+ Cruseilles 287
+ Cruzy-le-Chatel 18
+ Cuers 130, 142
+ Culinary terms xxiii
+ Culoz 282
+ Cuneo 182, 279, 308
+ ---- to Barcelonnette 341
+ ---- to Nice 182
+ Cusset 365
+
+ DARCEY 19
+ Darsac 89
+ ---- to Chaise-Dieu 89
+ Dauphin, Le 331
+ Decize 25
+ Demonte 342
+ Dent de Nivolet 288
+ Dent-du-Chat 282
+ Diano Marina 208
+ Die 47
+ Dieulefit 47
+ Digne 166
+ Digoin 358
+ Dijon 20
+ Doctors’ fees 110
+ Dolce-Acqua 201
+ Domène 336
+ Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357
+ Donzère 50
+ Doussard 287
+ Draguignan 145
+ Duingt 287
+ Duke of Berwick 356
+ Duranus 180
+ Durtol 377
+
+ EAUX CHAUDES 166
+ Embrun 343
+ Enchastraye 330
+ Entraque 181
+ Epinac 24
+ Escragnolles 165
+ Espaly 89
+ Estaque, L’ 80
+ Estérels 146, 156
+ Etang 25
+ Eugene Sué 286
+ Eyguirande 386
+ Eze 186
+
+ FAYENCE 145
+ Fenestrelle 307
+ Feurs 346
+ Fiesole 276
+ Finalmarina 209
+ Fix-St. Geneys 91
+ Flavigny 19
+
+ +Florence+ 233
+ · Academy of Fine Arts 271
+ · Alkermes 268
+ · Alvernia 279
+ · Amerigo Vespucci 275
+ · Arcetri 248
+ · Arezzo 279
+ · Badia, La 263
+ · Baptistery 256
+ · Bargello 261
+ · Bello Sguardo 250
+ · Bibbiena 279
+ · Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266
+ · ---- Nazionale 236
+ · Bigallo, Il 257
+ · Boboli Gardens 246
+ · Brancacci chapel 252
+ · Brunelleschi’s crucifix 268
+ · Cab tariff 234
+ · Camaldoli 278
+ · Campanile 255
+ · Cascine 276
+ · Cathedral 252
+ · Certosa 250
+ · Dante 258
+ · David, by Michael Angelo 272
+ · Donatello’s crucifix 260
+ · Duomo 252
+ · Galileo 247, 260
+ · Galleria Uffizi 237
+ · Gallery of mosaics 273
+ · Guide books 234
+ · Hawkwood, John 255
+ · Hospital St. Giovanni 275
+ · Hotels and apartments 233
+ · House of Amerigo Vespucci 275
+ · ---- of Dante 274
+ · ---- of Galileo 248
+ · ---- of Macchiavelli 247
+ · ---- of Michael Angelo 263
+ · Ketterick, John 259
+ · Loggia Orcagna 235
+ · Luca della Robbia ware 263
+ · Masaccio 252
+ · Money-changers 234
+ · Monte Oliveto 251
+ · Mortuary chapel 255
+ · Mosaic manufacture 273
+ · Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267
+ · ---- Nat. Hist. 247
+ · National Museum 261
+ · Niobe 242
+ · Ognissanti 275
+ · Or St. Michele 257
+ · Palaces 273
+ · Palazzo Corsini 275
+ · ---- Riccardi 275
+ · ---- Strozzi 275
+ · ---- Torrigiani 276
+ · ---- Vecchio 274
+ · Park 276
+ · Pazzi chapel 260
+ · Perazzi chapel 259
+ · Piazza S. Annunziata 269
+ · ---- S. Croce 258
+ · ---- Signoria 235
+ · Piazzale Michelangiolo 249
+ · Picture gallery of S. Marco 270
+ · Pitti gallery 243
+ · ---- palace 246
+ · Pontassieve 278
+ · Porta Romana 248
+ · Post office 236
+ · Prefettura della Provincia 275
+ · Protestant churches 234
+ · Raphael 239
+ · Refectory of S. Croce 261
+ · Restaurants 234
+ · Rucellai chapel 268
+ · Sagrestia Nuova 265
+ · S. Annunziata 268
+ · S. Croce 258
+ · S. Giovannino 264
+ · S. Lorenzo 264
+ · S. Marco 270
+ · S. Maria del Carmine 252
+ · S. Maria del Fiore 252
+ · ---- Novella 267
+ · S. Michele 257
+ · S. Miniato 249
+ · S. Spirito 251
+ · Sarto, Andrea del 269
+ · Savonarola 270
+ · Sights 234
+ · Spezeria 268
+ · Straw-plaiting 277
+ · Torre del Gallo 248
+ · Tribuna 238
+ · ---- di Galileo 247
+ · Uffizi gallery 237
+ · Vallombrosa 278
+ · Venus de Medici 238
+ · Views 250
+
+ Foncaude baths 75
+ Fontainebleau 3
+ Fontana 183
+ Fontenay abbey 19
+ Forcalqueiret 129
+ Fos 76
+ Fourchambault 353
+ Freaux, Les 331
+ Frejus 146
+ Freney, Le 331
+ Frontignan 75
+ · salt 75
+ · wine 75
+
+ GALLINARIA 208
+ Gannat 368
+ Gap 340,
+ ---- to Barcelonnette 340
+ ---- to Grenoble 342
+ Garabit, Pont de 374
+ Gardanne 80, 142, 338
+ ---- to Carnoules 142
+
+ Genoa 212, 279
+ · Accademia 216
+ · Acquasola 216
+ · Albergo dei Poveri 218
+ · Cabs 213,
+ · Cafés 213,
+ · Campo-Santo 218
+ · Cathedral 217
+ · Corsos 213
+ · English church 212
+ · Hotels 212
+ · Money-changers 213
+ · Palazzo Adorno 216
+ · ---- Balbi 215
+ · ---- Doria 214
+ · ---- ---- (Giorgio) 216
+ · ---- Ducal 217
+ · ---- Durazzo 215
+ · ---- Municipicio 216
+ · ---- Rosso 216
+ · ---- Serra 216
+ · ---- Spinola 216
+ · Post office 216
+ · Royal Palace 214
+ · S. Ambrogio 217
+ · S. Annunziata 215
+ · S. Maria in Carignano 218
+ · S. Matteo 217
+ · S. Siro 215
+ · Shops 212
+ · Steamers 213
+ · Telegraph office 213
+ · Valdensian church 212
+ · Via Circonvallazione 213
+ · Via Milano 214
+
+ Gerbier-de-Joncs 84
+ Gevrey 23
+ Giandola 183
+ Gien 351
+
+ +Giens+ 140
+ · La Madrague 141
+ · Le Chateau 141
+ · Salt works 141
+ · Semaphore 141
+
+ Gières 336
+ Gilly 358
+ Givors-Canal 81, 349
+ Gleyzin glacier 337
+ Golf Jouan 169
+ Goncelin 336
+ Gonfaron 131
+ Gourdon 163
+ Grand Som 324
+ Grande-Chartreuse 323
+ Grande Combe 375
+ Grasse 160
+ Grave, La 331
+
+ +Grenoble+ 324
+ · Bastile 325
+ · Bayard 325
+ · Coaches 325, 327
+ · Gloves 327
+ · Hotels 324
+ · Library 326
+ · Picture gallery 326
+ · St. André 325
+ · St. Laurent 327
+ · to Barcelonnette 341
+ · to Briançon 328
+ · to Corps 333
+ · to Gap 342
+ · to La Motte-les-Bains 327
+ · to Sassenage 327
+
+ Gréoulx 167
+ Grignan 49
+ Grimaud 144
+ Guerigny 354
+ Guillestre 344
+
+ HAUTECOMBE ABBEY 284
+ Hermitage wine 43
+ Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321
+
+ +Hyères+ 133
+ · Banks 133
+ · Butterflies 139
+ · Cabs 134
+ · Caterpillars 139
+ · Charles of Anjou 136
+ · Château, Le 136
+ · Climate 140
+ · Clubs 134
+ · Cork trees 139
+ · Costebelle 136
+ · Drives 134
+ · English Pharmacy 133
+ · Episcopal Chapel 133
+ · Fenouillet, Mont 137
+ · Game 138
+ · Hermitage 136
+ · Hotels 133
+ · Jardin d’Acclimatation 136
+ · La Plage 140
+ · Map 129
+ · Massillon 135
+ · Napoleon I. 136
+ · Oiseaux Monts. 128
+ · Olive trees 138
+ · Palm sticks 108
+ · Palms 136
+ · Paradis, Mont 141
+ · Pauline, La 142
+ · Pipes 139
+ · Potence 139
+ · Productions 139
+ · St. Louis 136
+ · St. Paul 135
+ · Stage coaches 134
+ · Temple Protestant 133
+ · Town water 139
+ · Trou des Fées 138
+ · View from Le Château 137
+
+ ILES DE LERINS 157
+ Iles d’Or 131
+ Il Serraglio 230
+
+ Issoire 372,
+ · coach to St. Nectaire 385
+
+ Isola Buona 201
+ Istres 76
+ Italian railway terms and time-tables 200, 291
+
+ JAUJAC 95
+ Jausiers 342
+ Javie 339
+ Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22
+ Joigny 14
+ Jouques 79
+ Joyeuse 96
+
+ LA BALME 282
+ La Barben 79
+ La Bastide 375
+ La Begude 93
+ La Bollene 181
+ La Chalp 306
+ La Chambre 289
+ La Charité 352
+ La Ciotat 122
+ La Crau 130
+ La Garde 128, 130
+ La Garde Fraiseinet 144
+ La Madrague 141
+ La Monta 344
+ La Mothe 94
+ La Palisse 346, 368
+ La Pauline 142
+ La Roche 14
+ La Salle 334
+ La Salette 334
+ La Sauvetat 88
+ La Seyne 123
+ La Valette 128
+ La Voulte 82
+
+ Lachamp-Raphael 84
+ Laffrey 333
+ Lagnieu 282
+ Laigueglia 208
+ Lake Allos 339
+ ---- Annecy 286
+ ---- Bourget 282
+ ---- Paladru 323
+ ---- Pavin 381
+ ---- Thau 76
+ Lamartine 27
+ Lambesc 80
+ Langeac 91, 375
+ Langogne 95, 375
+ ---- to Le Puy 88
+ Lans-le-Bourg 290
+ Lantosque 180
+ Laqueuille 377
+ ---- to Mont-Dore 377
+ ---- to Bourboule 377
+ Larche 342
+ Largentière 96
+ ---- to Les Laumes 14
+ Larzac 106
+ Laudun 99
+ Laurent-du-Pont 323
+ Lauzet 331
+ Lauzet, Le 341
+ Lavandou 143
+
+ Le Barroux 57
+ Le Beage 84
+ Le Bouchet 88
+ Le Buis 57
+ Le Creusot 25
+ Le Monastier 85
+ Le Pal 96
+ Le Peage de Roussillon 43
+ Le Pouzin 92
+ Le Puy 86
+ Le Teil 93
+ Le Trayas 149
+
+ Leghorn 226
+ Lemons 191, 194, 201
+ Lerici 221
+ Les Arcs 145
+ Les Baux 67
+ Les Etables 85
+ Les Etages 330
+ Les Laumes 19
+ Les Marches 289, 338
+ Les Piles 51
+ Les Saintes Maries 72
+ Les Salins 141
+
+ Leschaux 287
+ Levant, Ile du 132
+ Levens 180
+ Limone 183
+ L’Isle 64
+ Livet 329
+ Livron 46
+ Loano 209
+ Lorgues 145
+ Lord Clarendon 356
+ Lovagny 286
+ Luc 144
+
+ +Lucca+ 227
+ · Cabs 227
+ · Cathedral 228
+ · Hotels 227
+ · Picture gallery 228
+ · S. Frediano 229
+ · S. Michele 229
+ Luc-en-Diois 48
+
+ Lunel 72
+ · wine 73
+ Lurs 339
+ Luserna 305
+ Luzy 25
+
+ +Lyons+ 29
+ · Antiquaille Hospital 33
+ · Aqueduct 34
+ · Boats, Penny 31
+ · Bourse 38
+ · Cabs 30
+ · Cathedral 34
+ · Cheese 42
+ · Condition des Soies 37
+ · Distances 29
+ · First sewing-machine 38
+ · Flourvière 32
+ · History 41
+ · Hospice 39
+ · Hôtel de Ville 37
+ · ---- Dieu 39
+ · Hotels 29
+ · Ile Barbe 42
+ · Jacquard’s loom 38
+ · Libraries 37, 38
+ · Minerals 37
+ · Mont Ceindre 41
+ · ---- d’Or 42
+ · Musée Archéologique 36
+ · ---- Guimet 40
+ · ---- Lapidaire 35
+ · ---- of Silk 38
+ · Notre Dame 33
+ · Observatoire Gay 33
+ · Palais de Justice 35
+ · ---- des Beaux Arts 35
+ · Park 40
+ · Picture gallery 36
+ · Place des Terreaux 37
+ · Post office 30
+ · Préfecture 37
+ · Railway station 30
+ · St. Bruno 37
+ · St. Irénée 34
+ · St. Martin d’Ainay 39
+ · St. Nizier 35
+ · St. Paul 33
+ · St. Pierre 35
+ · St. Polycarpe 37
+ · Sights 32
+ · Silk museum 38
+ · Squares (Places) 32
+ · Steamers 31
+ · Tête d’Or 40
+ · Theatres 31
+ · to Nîmes 81
+ · Trams 31
+ · Weavers 40
+ · Workhouse (Hospice) 39
+
+ MACON 26
+ · wines 24
+ Maisons-Alfort 2
+ Malaucene 57
+ Manosque 66, 166, 168, 339
+ Marcols 84
+ Marlioz 284
+
+ +Marseilles+ 80, 111
+ · Anglican chapel 112
+ · Arc de Triomphe 116
+ · Biblothèque 117
+ · Bishop Belsunce 116
+ · Boats 112
+ · Bonneveine 113
+ · Bouillabaisse 113
+ · Bourse 116
+ · Cabs 111
+ · Canal 77
+ · Cathedral 115
+ · Charities 119
+ · Château Borely 113
+ · Commerce 120
+ · Consigne 115
+ · Corniche 113
+ · Custom-house 112
+ · École des Beaux Arts 117
+ · History 120
+ · Hôtel de Ville 115
+ · Hotels 111
+ · If, island of 118
+ · Industries 119
+ · Joliette 115
+ · Lazarus’s grave 119
+ · Lycée 117
+ · Marseillaise, the 120
+ · Martigues 118
+ · Money-changers 112
+ · Musée d’Archéologie 113
+ · Notre Dame 117
+ · Observatory 115
+ · Palais de Justice 116
+ · ---- Longchamp 114
+ · Port 115
+ · Préfecture 116
+ · Reservoir 115
+ · St. Victor 117
+ · Sights 112,
+ · Steamboats 112
+ · Temple 112
+ · to Grenoble 338
+ · to Menton 112
+ · Trams 113,
+ · Zoological garden 115
+
+ Martinet 341
+ Mary Magdalene 124, 145
+ Massa 223
+ Maurin 341
+ Mayres 89, 94
+ Meana 291
+ Meije 331
+ Melun 2
+ Menthon 287
+
+ +Menton+ 193
+ · Annunciata 196
+ · Banks 194
+ · Bennet garden 197
+ · Berceau 196
+ · Cabs 194
+ · Cape St. Martin 195
+ · Castellar 196
+ · Castellon 197
+ · Caves 195
+ · Churches 194
+ · Ciotti 197
+ · Climate 199
+ · Gorvio 197
+ · Gourg-d’Ora 197
+ · Grimaldi 197
+ · Hanbury grounds 197
+ · Hotels 193
+ · Mont Baudon 196
+ · Monti 198
+ · Mortola 197
+ · St. Agnese 196
+ · ---- (village) 197
+ · St. Louis 196
+ · to Genoa 199
+
+ Meounes 129
+ Meursault 24
+ Meymac 386
+ Meyrargues 80
+ Meze 76
+ Mezillac 84
+ Mirabeau 338
+ Mirabouc 306
+ Miramas 76
+ ---- to Port Bouc 76
+ Modane 290
+ ---- by road to Susa 290
+
+ +Modena+ 313
+ · Campanile 314
+ · Cathedral 314
+ · Library 314
+ · Museo Lapidario 315
+ · Picture gallery 314
+ Moirans 324
+
+ +Monaco+ 187
+ Monastier, Le 85
+ Mondoví 184, 304
+ Monestier de Clermont 345
+ Monètier de Briançon 332
+ Monge, Gaspard 23
+ Monistrol-d’Allier 91
+ Mons cave 163
+ Mont Agel 192
+ ---- Aulas 105
+ ---- Auxois 19
+ ---- Belledonne 336
+ ---- Cenis 290
+ ---- ---- Hospice 290
+ ---- Chenavari 93
+ ---- Coudon 125, 128
+ ---- Faron 127
+ ---- Ferrand 331
+ ---- Genèvre 333
+ ---- Gergovia 372
+ ---- Grand Sambiu 79
+ ---- Gravenne 96
+ ---- Meidassa 305, 344
+ ---- Mezenc 85
+ ---- Pelvoux 333, 344, 345
+ ---- Pilat 348
+ ---- Pirchiriano 291
+ ---- Protomagno 278
+ ---- Sancy 381
+ ---- Semnoz 287
+ ---- Taillefer 329
+ ---- Ventoux 56, 57
+ ---- Vestide 96
+ ---- Viso 305, 344
+ Montagnac 88
+ Montallieu 281
+ Montargis 351
+ Montauroux 162
+ Montbard 18
+ Montbrison 349
+ Montchanin 25
+ Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378
+ ---- to Issoire 385
+ ---- to St. Nectaire 385
+ Mont Dauphin 306, 307, 343
+ ---- to Saluzzo 344
+ Monte Carlo 189, 192
+ Monte Grosso 210
+ Montélimart 48
+ Montereau 10
+ Montgeron 2
+ Mont-Majour 71
+ Montmélian 167, 289, 338
+
+ +Montpellier+ 73
+ · École de Médecine 74
+ · Musée Fabre 74
+ · to Palavas 75
+ · wine 75
+ Montpezat 96
+ Montrieux 129
+ Moret 10
+ Mornas 46
+ Moulins 355
+ ---- Les 190
+ Moustiers Ste. Marie 167
+ Moutiers on Doron 320
+ Mure, La 334, 342
+ Murols 382
+
+ NAPOLEON I. 64
+ Napoule 156
+ Narce 89, 94
+
+ +Nervi+ 219
+ Neussargues 374
+ Nevers 353
+ Neyrac 94
+
+ +Nice+ 169
+ · Banks 172
+ · Booksellers 172
+ · Cabs 173
+ · Cafés 172
+ · Carabacél 177
+ · Caterina Segurmana 176
+ · Cathedral 176
+ · Château, Le 175
+ · Churches 173
+ · Cimiés 177
+ · Climate 174
+ · Clubs 172
+ · Column 177
+ · Confectioneries 173
+ · Contes 174
+ · Crois-de-Marbre 177
+ · Diligences 173
+ · Drives 178
+ · Falicon 180
+ · Garibaldi 176
+ · Hotels and Pensions 170
+ · House agents 172
+ · Jardin Public 178
+ · Luther 176
+ · Massena 177
+ · Memorial chapel 176
+ · Money-changers 172
+ · Mont Chauve 179
+ · Monte Carlo 178
+ · Museum 178
+ · Observatory 180
+ · Paganini 176
+ · Palais de Lascaris 176
+ · Pharmacies 172
+ · Post office 172
+ · Promenade 175
+ · Protestant churches 173
+ · Public library 172
+ · St. André 179
+ · St. Augustin 176
+ · St. Jean 178
+ · St. Pons 179
+ · Val Obscur 178
+ · Vallon des Fleurs 179
+ · Vallons 174
+ · Villa Clery 179
+ · Villefranche 178, 184
+
+ Nicholas V. 221
+ Nieigles 95
+ Nîmes 101, 376
+ ---- to Vigan 105
+ Nolay 24
+ Noli 209
+ Novi 279
+ Nuits 23
+ Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18
+ Nyons 50
+ ---- to Serres 51
+
+ OLBON 83
+ Olliergues 91
+ Ollioules 123
+ Olive tree 138
+ Orange 51
+ ---- Prince of 52
+ Orcival 380
+ Orgon 66
+ Ortolans 56
+ Ospedaletti 201, 202
+ Oulx 291, 333
+ Ours-Mons 88
+
+ PALAVAS 75
+ Paradisino 278
+ Paray-le-Monial 27
+ Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346
+ ---- to Marseilles 1
+ ---- Directions 1
+ ---- to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes 351
+ ---- to Marseilles by Lyons 1
+ ---- to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281
+ ---- to Turin by Grenoble 322
+
+ Parma 310
+ Parmesan cheese 313
+ Pas-des-Lanciers 80, 88, 376
+ Pegli 211
+ Pelago 278
+ Pelussin 81
+ Perinaldo 201
+ Perosa 307
+ ---- to Cesanne 307
+ ----to Mont-Dauphin 307
+ Pertuis 77, 338
+ Petite Afrique 186
+ Petrarch 65
+ Peyerbelle 89, 95
+ Peyraud 81
+ Peyrolles 79
+ Piacenza 309
+ Pian Fiorenza 308
+ ---- del Ré 308
+ Pierre-Chatel 334
+ Pierrefeu 130
+ Pietrasanta 223
+ Pigna 201
+ Pinerolo 306
+
+ +Pisa+ 223
+ · Baptistery 225
+ · Cabs 224
+ · Campo Santo 225
+ · Cathedral 224
+ · Hotels 223
+ · Leaning Tower 225
+ · Post office 224
+ · Santa Maria 226
+ · University 226
+
+ Pistoja 231
+ Polignac 89
+ Pomaretto 307
+ Pomponiana 143
+ Pontaix 47
+ Pontassieve 277
+ Pont Avignon 99
+ ---- d’Arc 97
+ ---- de-la-Beaune 95
+ ---- du-Gard 104
+ ---- Ecofier 329
+ ---- Gibaud 377
+ ---- St. Esprit 98
+ Pontcharra 337
+ Pontigny 16
+ Pontius Pilate 43
+ Porquerolles 131
+ Port Bouc 76
+ ---- to Arles 76
+ Port Cros 132
+ ---- Grau du Roi 73
+ ---- Man 132
+ ---- St. Louis 72
+ Porto Maurizio 207
+ ---- Oneglia 208
+ ---- Venere 220
+ Portofino 220
+ Pougues-les-Eaux 352
+ Pouilly-sur-Loire 352
+ Pourcheyrolles 95
+ Pouzin 92
+ Pra 211
+ Pradelles 89, 95
+ Prades (Ardèche) 95
+ Prato 232
+ Praz 289
+ Pré-St Didier 321
+ Prices 109
+ Privas 92
+ Puget, Pierre 80
+ Puget-Theniers 182
+ Puligny 24
+ Puy-de-Dome 372
+
+ QUEYRAS 344
+ Quincy abbey 18
+
+ RANDAN 366, 368
+ Rapallo 220
+ Reggio Emilia 313
+ Remoulins 99
+ Resin baths 48, 57
+ Rians 79
+ Riez 166, 168
+ Riom 369
+ Riouperoux 329
+ Rioutort 96
+ Ris 367
+ Rives 323
+
+ +Riviera, the+ 107
+ · Climate 108
+ · Cost of living 109
+ · road to 1
+ · Vegetation 108
+
+ Roanne 346, 348
+ Robilante 183
+ Rocavignon 160
+ Roche Cevins 320
+ Rochemaure 92
+ Rocher Blanc 164
+ ---- Noir 165
+ Rognac 77, 376
+ ---- to Aix-en-Provence 77
+ ---- to Roquefavour 77
+ Romaneche 28
+ Roquebillère 181
+ Roquebrune 192
+ Roquefavour aqueduct 77
+ Roquemaure 99
+ Roquotaillado tunnel 162
+ Rosans 51
+ Roumoulles 168
+ Rousseau, J. J. 287, 288
+ Rouvray 16
+ Royat 376
+ Ruoms 96
+ Ruota 201
+
+ SAILLANS 47
+ Sail-les-Bains 348
+ Saincaize 355
+ St. Agnan 358
+ St. Agnes 131
+ St. Alban 348
+ St. Ambroix 96
+ St. André-le-Gaz 322
+ ---- to Chambery 322
+ St. Auban 166, 339
+ St. Baume (Agay) 147
+ ---- (Bouches du Rhône) 144
+ St. Bernard 27, 287
+ St. Cannat 79
+ St. Cesaire 162
+ St. Chamas 76, 376
+ St. Christophe 330
+ St. Cyre 123
+ St. Didier 57
+ St. Edmund 17
+ St. Etienne 346, 349
+ · manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347
+ St. Eulalie 96
+ St. Florentin 16
+ ---- to Chablis 16
+ St. Galmier 346, 348
+ St. Georges-d’Aurac 91, 374
+ St. Germain 321
+ St. Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29
+ St. Germain-des-Fossés 358
+ St. Gilles 72
+ St. Honorat 158
+ St. Honoré baths 354
+ St. Honoré-les-Bains 25, 354
+ St. Jean 185
+ St. Jean du Bruel 106
+ St. Julien-du-Sault 13
+ St. Louis (king) 73
+ St. Marcel caves 98
+ St. Marcellin 324
+ ---- to Pont-en-Royan 324
+ St. Marguerite 157
+ St. Mart 377
+ St. Martin 98
+ St. Martin-Lantosque 181
+ St. Maurice 2, 50
+ St. Maximin 143
+ St. May 51
+ St. Menet 122
+ St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289
+ St. Nazaire 123
+ St. Nectaire 385
+ St. Pardoux 357
+ St. Paul-Trois-Château 50
+ St. Péray 82
+ · wine 82
+ St. Pêre 15
+ St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289
+ ---- to Annecy 289
+ ---- to Courmayeur 320
+ St. Pierre-d’Argenson 48
+ St. Pierreville 83
+ St. Pilon 144
+ St. Pons 341
+ St. Priest 322
+ St. Privat 91
+ St. Rambert-d’Albon 43
+ +St. Raphael+ 147
+ St. Remi-en-Rollat 368
+ St. Remy 67
+ St. Sauveur 83, 182
+ St. Seine 19
+ St. Thomé 97
+ St. Tropez 145
+ St. Vallier 43, 165
+ St. Yorre 366
+
+ Salon 66
+ Saluzzo 307, 344
+ ---- to Cuneo 307
+ ---- to Mont Dauphin 308
+ ---- to Paesana 308
+ ---- to Sampeyre 308, 344
+ Sampierdarena 212
+ San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291
+ San Chiaffredo 308
+ San Dalmazzo 308
+ San Giuliano 227
+
+ +San Remo+ 203
+ · Cabs 203
+ · Ceriana 204
+ · Climate 204
+ · Hotels 203
+ · Madonna 205
+ · Monte Bignone 205
+ · Poggia 204
+ · St. Romolo 205
+ · ---- to Taggia 207
+
+ San Stefano 207
+ San Terenzo 221
+ Sancerre 352
+
+ +Santa Margherita+ 220
+ Saou 46
+ Sarzana 221
+ Sassenage 327
+ Sauclières 105
+ Saugues 91
+ Saulieu 16
+ Saut-du-Loup 373
+ Savigny 24
+ Savines 343
+ Savona 209
+
+ Sea bathing 110
+ Séchilienne 329
+ Seez 321
+ Seine, source of 19
+ Semur 16
+ Senez 166
+ Sens 10
+ Sept Laux 337
+ Sermizelles 15
+ Serres 51, 340
+ Serrières 81
+ Sestri Levante 220
+ ---- Ponente 212
+ Settignano 277
+ Seyne-les-Alpes 339
+
+ Shelley 221, 223
+ Sisteron 339
+ Six-Fours 123
+ Solliès-Pont 129, 142
+ Solliès-Ville 129, 142
+ Sorgues 54
+ Sospello 182
+ Source of the Loire 84
+ Souvigny 356
+ Spezia 220
+ Steam trams 304
+ Sue du Pal 96
+ Susa 291
+ Suze-le-Rousse 50
+
+ TAGGIA 206, 207
+ Tain 43
+ Talloires 286
+ Tanlay 17
+ Tarascon 66, 376
+ · Martha’s grave 67
+ Taulignan 49
+ Tavernettes, Les 290
+ Teil 93
+ Tenay 282
+ Tenda 183
+ Termignon 290
+
+ Theoule 155
+ Thezièrs 99
+ Thiers 367, 350
+ Thomery 10
+ Thueyts 94
+ Thuile 321
+ Tonnerre 17
+ Torre-Péllice 305
+ ---- to Mont Dauphin 306
+
+ +Toulon+ 124
+ · Arsenal 125
+ · Bagne 125
+ · Balaguier 127
+ · Belle-Poule 124
+ · Cap Brun 128
+ · Cathedral 126
+ · Dardenne 128
+ · Diligences 129
+ · Hotels 124
+ · Le Pradet 128
+ · Le Tamaris 127
+ · Mont Faron 127
+ · Omnibuses 124, 128
+ · Port, the 124
+ · Puget’s house 126
+ · Rue Lafayette 126
+ · St. François de Paule 126
+ · St. Mandrier 127
+ · St. Marguerite 128
+ · Smith, Sir Sydney 126
+ · Temple Protestant 124
+ · Town Hall 126
+ Tour-du-Pin 322
+ Tournon 82
+ Tournus 26
+ Trayas, Le 148
+ Trets 144
+ Trévoux 29
+ Trinité-Victor 182
+ Troy weight 13
+ Troyes 11
+ Truffles 55
+ Tulle 386
+ Turbie, La 191, 192
+
+ +Turin+ 292
+ · Accademia Albertina 300
+ · Armoury 297
+ · Biblioteca del Ré 297
+ · Booksellers 293
+ · Cabs 292
+ · Cafés 293
+ · Castello, the 299
+ · Cathedral 298
+ · Cavour house 294
+ · ---- monument 301
+ · Cemetery 302
+ · Gran Madre di Dio 300
+ · Gressini 303
+ · Hotels 292
+ · King’s palace 298
+ · La Consolata 301
+ · Medagliere del Ré 297
+ · Money-changers 293
+ · Monuments 293, 301
+ · Museo Civico 299
+ · Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294
+ · Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297
+ · Palazzo Carignano 297
+ · ---- dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294
+ · ---- di Citta 301
+ · Piazza Carlo Felice 293
+ · ---- dello Statuto 293
+ · ---- San Carlo 293
+ · ---- Vitt. Emanuele 300
+ · Post and telegraph offices 293
+ · Railway stations 293
+ · Superga, La 302
+ · Teatro Regio 298
+ · Theatres 293
+ · to Cuneo 153
+ · to Florence 309
+ · to Genoa 279
+ · to Savona 183
+ · Trams 292
+ · University 300
+ · Via di Po 300
+ · Wines 303
+
+ UBAYE 341
+ Uriage baths 336
+ Usclades 96
+ Uzès 99
+
+ VAISON 53
+ Val Louise 333, 345
+ Valbonne 98
+ Valdieri 181, 182
+ Valence 44
+ ---- coaches from 45
+ Vallauris 154
+ Valleraugue 105
+ Vallombrosa 278
+ Vallon 97
+ Valréas 49
+ Vals 93
+ Var 169
+ Varazze 210
+ Varennes 26
+ Varzy 354
+ Vassivières 381
+ Vaucluse 64
+ Vaugris 43
+ Velars 20
+ Venanson 181
+ Vence 163
+ Vence-Cagnes 169
+ Vencigliato 277
+ Venosc 330
+
+ Ventimiglia 200
+ Vernet 91
+ ---- (Digne) 339
+ Verrey 19
+ Vesseaux 93
+ Veynes 340
+ Vezelay 15
+ Viareggio 223
+
+ +Vichy+ 359
+ Vienne 42
+ Vif 345
+ Vigan 105
+ ---- to Millau 105
+ Villa Pallavicini 211
+ Villard-d’Arène 331
+ Villefort 375
+ ---- to Bagnol-les-Bains 375
+ Villefranche 184
+ Villefranche-sur-Saône 29
+ Villeperdrix 51
+ Ville-la-Vieille 344
+ Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63
+ · Hospital 63
+ · Marchioness de Ganges 63
+ Villeneuve-St. George 2
+ Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13
+ Vinadio 183, 342
+ Virieu 322
+ Virieu-le-Grand 282
+ Viviers 97
+ Vizille 328, 333, 345
+ Voghera 309
+ Voiron 323
+ · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323
+ Voltri 211
+ Volvic 369, 377
+ Volx 339
+ Voreppe 324
+ · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324
+ Vougeot 23
+ Voulte, La 82
+ Voute-Chilhac 91
+
+ WALDENSES, OR VAUDOIS 305
+ Waldensian valleys 304
+ Warrens, Mme. 286, 288
+ Wellington 2
+
+THE END.
+
+_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+ * * * *
+ * * * * *
+
+Errors and Inconsistencies
+
+ LIST OF MAPS:
+ +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 [text has “191”]
+
+A few points are missing “from” or “to” mileages. They have not been
+individually noted. Two occurrences of “Coreggio” for “Correggio” have
+been silently corrected.
+
+Map references are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy” map was printed
+twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is given
+as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as “page 27” and “page
+26”. “Map. p. 199” and “p. 200” both refer to the Italian Riviera map;
+it is also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map of Hyères (p. 129) is twice
+cited as “p. 177”.
+
+ Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, [_elsewhere “Médicis”_]
+ Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+),
+ [_closing parenthesis missing_]
+ H. Rigaud, 1552-1745
+ [_text unchanged: Hyacinthe Rigaud 1659-1743_]
+ 23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die
+ [_text has “23 m. L.”_]
+ [Pisa] in the Lung’ Arno Regio [_text has “Lung ’Arno”_]
+ [headnote] ... S. FREDIANO [_text has “S. FREDIANA”_]
+ E vi mori il 6 Giugno 1861.” [_close quote missing_]
+ and for description, Black’s _France_, North half).
+ [_closing parenthesis missing_]
+
+ +Avignon to Nîmes+ ...
+ [_text has 110 for 101 and 114 for 104_]
+ [Florence]
+ ... in the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. [_text has 166 for 266_]
+ From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line
+ [_text has 246 for 346_]
+
+ INDEX
+ _Inconsistencies between Index and body text were changed when one
+ form was clearly wrong; others are simply noted. Page references that
+ were wrong by only one page were disregarded._
+
+ Avignon: St Didier [_spelled “Dedier” in body text_]
+ Bardonnecchia [_text has “Bardonnechia”_]
+ Estérels [_spelled “Estérel” in body text_]
+ Florence: S. Maria del Fiore [_text has “del Fiori”_]
+ Hyeres: Oiseaux Monts 138 [_text has 128_]
+ Menton: Annunciata [_spelled “Annonciade” in body text_]
+ --: Gorvio [_spelled “Gorbio” in body text_]
+ --: Castellon 199 [_text has 197_]
+ Rocher Blanc [_spelled “Roche-Blanche” in body text_]
+ San Remo: Poggio [_text has “Poggia”_]
+ St Michael [_spelled “Michel” in body text_]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South of France--East Half, by
+Charles Bertram Black
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
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diff --git a/old/24787-8.txt b/old/24787-8.txt
new file mode 100644
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@@ -0,0 +1,22816 @@
+Project Gutenberg's The South of France--East Half, by Charles Bertram Black
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The South of France--East Half
+
+Author: Charles Bertram Black
+
+Release Date: March 9, 2008 [EBook #24787]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note:
+
+This file is for readers who cannot use the "real" (unicode, utf-8)
+version of the text. The differences are primarily cosmetic, involving
+some fractions and the [oe] ligature common in French words.
+
+The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage.
+
+"Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page,
+have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph.
+
+Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and "miles to"
+{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners
+of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces}
+before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at
+the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs
+describing side excursions do not have mileage information.
+
+The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the
+text, though not in the introductory section:
+ Those with the figure are first-class houses, with second-class.
+ The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.
+
+Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.]
+
+
+
+
+ [Map:
+ Index and Railway Map of France]
+
+
+
+
+ SOUTH OF FRANCE
+
+ EAST HALF
+
+
+
+
+GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.
+
+
+ SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH.1s.
+
+ TOURIST'S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY,
+ ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of
+ SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s.
+
+ CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.
+
+ BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and
+ LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s.6d.
+
+ NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF
+ CONTREXVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,
+ etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s.6d.
+
+ TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
+ Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.
+
+ The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the
+ Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine.
+
+ THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to
+ LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps
+ and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.
+
+ FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE
+ RHNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE
+ UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES
+ between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA,
+ MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous
+ Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.
+
+
+From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884.
+
+ "_C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
+ character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
+ acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in
+ which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent
+ observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up'
+ the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
+ of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
+ mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
+ apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._"
+
+
+
+
+ The
+ SOUTH OF FRANCE
+ EAST HALF
+
+ Including the Valleys of
+ THE RHNE, DRME AND DURANCE
+
+ The BATHS of
+ VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE
+
+ The Whole of the
+ RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN
+
+ With the Inland Towns of
+ TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA
+
+ and
+ THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY
+
+ Illustrated with Maps and Plans
+
+
+ FOURTH EDITION
+
+ C. B. BLACK
+
+ EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
+ 1885
+
+
+
+
+ _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main
+Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements
+of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the
+stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to
+towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these
+branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than
+that of the towns on the main lines.
+
+Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of
+these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and
+either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.
+
+The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either
+from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement.
+The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for
+Marseilles to Paris.
+
+The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is
+expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the
+margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each
+other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from
+each other.
+
+In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in
+the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is
+necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on
+such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission,
+the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited
+before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the
+day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All
+the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on
+Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted
+on payment of a franc.
+
+In "Table of Contents" the Routes are classified and explained. For the
+Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
+Continental Railways, see "Preliminary Information."
+
+Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
+Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
+understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
+safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
+sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
+with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
+influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
+prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
+doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
+sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
+walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
+which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
+exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
+Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
+indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
+railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. "Iwould
+strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
+health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
+to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
+situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
+mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
+climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
+of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
+his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
+requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
+to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
+will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due
+regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution
+can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best
+climate, a disease of long standing.
+
+"It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
+strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
+witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
+deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
+surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
+which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
+left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to
+arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.
+
+"The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
+living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
+exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
+'sight-seeing,' frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
+late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
+promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
+counteracted by the operation of these causes." --_Sir James Clark on
+the Sanative Influence of Climate._
+
+SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.
+
+ Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
+ at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p.93), Mont-Dore
+ (p.378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p.283),
+ Bourbon-l'Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p.358). If at the
+ eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
+ Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp.212 and 279) to Turin
+ (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pllice
+ (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
+ valleys.
+
+ If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
+ a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p.290); where, however,
+ on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather
+ sharp and bracing.
+
+ From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
+ baths is by the valley of the Rhne (map, p.27), in which there are
+ many places of great interest, such as Arles (p.68), Avignon (p.58),
+ Orange (p.51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch
+ by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For
+ Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambrieux (p.281) and Culoz
+ (p.282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p.98),
+ Montlimart (p.48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p.46) and Grenoble
+ (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From
+ Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardech
+ (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and
+ villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the
+ roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the
+ western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.
+
+ None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
+ travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
+ They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.
+
+
+The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
+cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
+including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
+the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9frs. per day. Meat
+breakfast, 2 to 3frs.; dinner, 3 to 4frs.; service, fr.; "caf au
+lait," with bread and butter, 1 fr. The omnibus between the hotel and
+the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads
+and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small
+gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and
+trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1 to 2frs. each,
+and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a
+gratuity.
+
+Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
+stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
+should be left in dept at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
+2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See "Railways" in "Preliminary
+Information."
+
+ C. B. B.
+
+
+
+
+PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
+
+THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL.
+
+
+ The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel
+ connected by railroad with Paris are:--
+
+
+ Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clres Junction, 100 m.;
+ Rouen, 85m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36m.; and Poissy,
+ 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de
+ l'Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4 hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d
+ cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.
+
+ London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily,
+ except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station.
+ Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60
+ miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets,
+ etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue
+ St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spcial, agent, M.Marcillet, Rue
+ de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.
+
+ From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchtel,
+ Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance,
+ 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st
+ class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15 frs.; 3d, 11 frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
+ station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest.
+
+ From Trport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
+ Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119 miles. Time, 8 hours 40
+ minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives
+ at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through
+ trains by this line.
+
+
+ BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
+ Abbeville, 109m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41m.; and Creil, 32 m.
+ from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4 hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs.
+ 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.
+
+ London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal
+ route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express
+ trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class.
+ Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from
+ London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the
+ entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the
+ railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.
+
+
+ CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158m.; Montreuil, 134 m.;
+ Abbeville, 109m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41m.; and Creil, 32m.
+ from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5 hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs.
+ 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.
+
+ London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283
+ miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+ Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
+ class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris,
+ 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined
+ in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the
+ railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.
+
+
+ CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177m.; Hazebrouck,
+ 165m.; Arras, 119m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41m.; and Creil,
+ 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40
+ minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d
+ cl. 20 frs. 10 c.
+
+
+ DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
+ 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119m.; Amiens,
+ 81m.; Clermont, 41m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.
+ 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10 hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d
+ cl. 28 frs. 15 c.
+
+ England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three
+ times a week from Fenning's Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.
+
+
+ LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138m.; Beuzeville
+ Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111m.; Rouen,
+ 87m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36m.; and Poissy, 17m. from
+ Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the
+ Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28
+ frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express,
+ 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.
+
+ London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday,
+ Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving
+ Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.
+
+
+ CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184m.; Bayeux, 167 m.;
+ Caen, 149m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119m.; Serquigny
+ Junction, 93m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36m.; and Poissy,
+ 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8 hours; slow trains, nearly 13
+ hours.
+
+
+FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.
+
+ On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England,
+ but the time is more accurately kept.
+
+ To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
+ luggage free.
+
+
+_Railway Time-Tables._
+
+ Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
+ official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold
+ at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are
+ various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
+ "Livret-Chaix Continental," which, besides the time-tables of the
+ French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is
+ furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The
+ "Livret-Chaix Continental" is sold at the station bookstalls. Price
+ 2 frs.
+
+ Next in importance is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," sold at
+ every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
+ time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
+ map.
+
+ The great French lines of the "Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest," of the
+ "Chemins de Fer d'Orleans," of the "Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon et
+ la Mditerrane," of the "Chemins de Fer du Nord," and of the
+ "Chemins de Fer de l'Est," have each time-tables of their own, sold at
+ all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.
+
+ For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the "Guide Officiel sur tous
+ les Chemins de Fer de Belgique." Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
+ Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium.
+
+ For Italy, use "L'Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d'Italia."
+ Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price
+ 1 fr.
+
+ In Spain use the "Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles," sold at the
+ stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres,
+ of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means "arrival";
+ _Salida_, "departure."
+
+ In England consult the "Continental Time-tables of the London,
+ Chatham, and Dover Railway," sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
+ price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.
+
+
+_In the Railway Station._
+
+ Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index
+ of the "Livret-Chaix Continental" the place required, to ascertain the
+ fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
+ refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on
+ its way.
+
+ On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people
+ before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are
+ sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket,
+ proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and
+ deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also
+ "bulletins."
+
+ After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a
+ luggage receipt, is handed you from the "guichet" of the luggage
+ office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10c. or 2
+ sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the
+ column headed "Nombre de Colis," and see that the exact number of your
+ articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the
+ figures 3,5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this
+ office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to
+ present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department,
+ otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and
+ thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the
+ entire number of the party on the "Billet de Bagage" is that, in case
+ of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the
+ accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If,
+ after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to
+ be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket
+ office, to be re-stamped (tre vis).
+
+ The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it
+ more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,
+ having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell
+ the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his
+ luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage
+ again.
+
+
+_On the Railway._
+
+ In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway
+ map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens,
+ Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.--the passengers are frequently
+ discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await
+ other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the
+ names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,
+ otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our
+ railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the
+ direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out,
+ "Voyageurs du Ct de Lyon!" and we be going to Marseilles from Macon,
+ we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the
+ map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway
+ map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in
+ readiness for reference.
+
+ _Buffet_ means "refreshment-room"; and _Salle d'Attente_,
+ "waiting-room."
+
+ There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for
+ ladies.
+
+ Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.
+
+
+_Railway Omnibuses._
+
+ At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of
+ omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished
+ by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the
+ Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of
+ the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should
+ the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put
+ down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to
+ the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the
+MOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.
+
+For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the
+"Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon et la Mditerrane." Sold at all their
+stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the "Indicatore Ufficiale," 1fr.
+or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains,
+those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all
+directions.
+
+In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern
+Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and
+Dover Railway,3d.
+
+ PAGE
+
+ +PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon,
+ Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles,
+ Toulon, Hyres, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on
+ fly-leaf) 1
+
+ For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide
+ this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles
+ (p.1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122).
+
+ +PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1
+
+ The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the
+ most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood
+ of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau.
+ Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the
+ largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if
+ possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
+ from this great central railway are
+
+ +La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant,
+ Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach
+ awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and
+ vast church 14
+
+ From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its
+ famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p.16), where
+ Thomas Becket resided.
+
+ Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit
+ the source of the Seine.
+
+ From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are
+ the famous Burgundy vineyards.
+
+ +Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot.
+ Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in
+ France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks.
+
+ +Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial
+ (p.27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had
+ several interviews with J. C.
+
+ +Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be
+ avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important
+ railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is
+ Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron
+ and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station
+ for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of
+ St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is
+ Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89 miles S.W. by St. Etienne
+ (p.346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along
+ the E. side of the Rhne leads to Avignon (p.58) and
+ Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nmes (p.101). See
+ map, p. 27.
+
+ VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N.E. 44
+
+ VALENCE TO ARDCHE 45
+
+ CREST TO MONTELIMART 46
+
+ +Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46
+
+ Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux
+ is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain.
+
+ +Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. by Die. This route
+ traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drme (map,
+ p. 27) 47
+
+ MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Svign died 49
+
+ +La Croisire to Nyons+, 29 miles E. (p.50). The climate
+ of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the
+ Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres,
+ 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and
+ Grenoble (map, p. 27).
+
+ +Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10 m. east 54
+
+ Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a
+ great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among
+ others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p.53).
+
+ +Avignon to Nmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the
+ Pont-du-Gard 64
+
+ AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived
+ for some time 64
+
+ AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66
+
+ AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66
+
+ TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67
+
+ ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent
+ Roman remains 71
+
+ ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhne 72
+
+ ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal
+ steamboat 76 and 72
+
+ ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72
+
+ LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73
+
+ +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings
+ water to Marseilles from the Durance 77
+
+ +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.+ Aix has
+ communication by rail and by coach with very many of the
+ neighbouring towns 78
+
+ +LYONS to NMES by the west side of the Rhne+ (map,
+ p. 27) 81
+
+ PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St.
+ Etienne 81
+
+ +La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in
+ the department of Ardche (map, p. 46) 83
+
+ The road to the source of the Loire (map, p.85) 83
+
+ LACHAMP-RAPHAL TO LE BAGE (map, p. 85) 84
+
+ LE BAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p.46) 85
+
+ LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88
+
+ LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p.46) 89
+
+ DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89
+
+ CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p.27) 90
+
+ LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol
+ station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91
+
+ LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92
+
+ +Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93
+
+ This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals
+ and the interesting volcanic mountains in the
+ neighbourhood.
+
+ PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p.27) 94
+
+ PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the
+ Loire (p. 84) is visited 95
+
+ MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96
+
+ RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the
+ Pont d'Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St.
+ Esprit (p. 98) 96
+
+ PONT D'AVIGNON, station on W. bank of the Rhne, for
+ Avignon 99
+
+ REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99
+
+ NMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105
+
+
+ THE RIVIERA.
+
+ +The Riviera.+ Hotels, productions, climate 107
+
+ +Marseilles.+ Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111
+
+ +MARSEILLES to MENTON.+ The French Riviera 122
+
+ Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little
+ towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p.123).
+ From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the
+ neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in
+ the interior. The most start from the Place d'Italie
+ (pp. 124 and 129).
+
+ Toulon to Dardenne from the "Place" to the W. of the
+ Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyres from the Place Puget
+ (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the
+ Place d'Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place
+ d'Italie (p. 128).
+
+ Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by
+ diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a
+ picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrires by La Crau
+ and Pierrefeu (p. 130).
+
+ Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier
+ (p. 127), to the Iles d'Hyres or d'Or (pp.124, 131).
+
+ +The Iles d'Or.+ Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131
+
+ +Toulon to Hyres+ 132
+
+ +Hyres.+ Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,
+ productions, climate 133
+
+ Hyres to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of
+ Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p.141);
+ to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez
+ (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p.147); or
+ coach to Le Luc (p. 144).
+
+ +La Pauline.+ Diligence and train to Hyres 142
+
+ +Carnoules.+ Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing
+ Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142
+
+ +Le Luc.+ Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure
+ mountains 144
+
+ +Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan
+ diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and
+ Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other
+ diligences 145
+
+ +Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p.154), to
+ Cap d'Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p.156), to
+ Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p.155), to
+ Estrel (p.155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de
+ Lerins (p.156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and
+ Theoule (p.155), to Pgomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien
+ (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and
+ Californie (p. 152).
+
+ +Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence
+ (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p.165),
+ Digne to Riez, Groulx, Volx and Manosque (p.166).
+
+ +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to
+ Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180
+
+ +Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From
+ St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tine
+ ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio
+ (map, p. 165). 182
+
+ +Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182
+
+ +Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and
+ Moncalieri, 90 miles N. 183
+
+ +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant
+ walk 185
+
+ +Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189
+
+ +Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tte de Chien 191
+
+ +MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian
+ Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200
+
+ BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201
+
+ SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205
+
+ +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera,
+ or the Riviera di Levante 219
+
+ +Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting
+ excursion 222
+
+ PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p.199) 227
+
+ PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227
+
+ LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230
+
+ FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277
+
+ GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway
+ journey 279
+
+ END OF THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+ +PARIS to TURIN+ 281
+
+ +PARIS to MODANE+ 281
+
+ AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286
+
+ +Modane to Turin+ 291
+
+ BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291
+
+ +Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305
+
+ TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306
+
+ PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d'Abris 307
+
+ PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrires 307
+
+ SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308
+
+ CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341
+
+ +TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
+ 309
+
+ ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint
+ Bernard 320
+
+ +PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is
+ the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the
+ picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the
+ Ecrin mountains 322
+
+ GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327
+
+ +Grenoble to Brianon+ by Bourg d'Oisans and the Col de
+ Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328
+
+ BOURG D'OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin
+ group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329
+
+ BRIANON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Besse and the Val Louise 333, 345
+
+ BRIANON TO OULX by Mt. Genvre and Cesanne 333
+
+ +Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps
+ another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the
+ pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333
+
+ GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336
+
+ +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban,
+ Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map,
+ p. 27) 338
+
+ ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339
+
+ DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p.304)
+ 339
+
+ DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339
+
+ +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N.E.
+ by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of
+ several of the important passes between France and Italy 340
+
+ GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341
+
+ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341
+
+ GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342
+
+ MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344
+
+ PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346
+
+ PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348
+
+ LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p.27) 349
+
+ PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nmes (see map
+ on fly-leaf) 351
+
+ MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L'ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny
+ and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356
+
+ MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and
+ Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p.27, map p.1) 357
+
+ ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSS TO VICHY 359
+
+ CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376
+
+ LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377
+
+ MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385
+
+ A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude
+ railway station.
+
+
+
+
+MAPS AND PLANS.
+
+PAGE
+
+
+ +Ardche+, general map of, including the northern part of
+ the department of Drme and the southern of the
+ Haute-Loire 46
+
+ This map contains a large part of the valleys of the
+ Rhne and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage,
+ Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc.,
+ the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.
+
+ +Arles+, a town of great interest 68
+
+ +Avignon+, Plan of 59
+
+ +Bologna+, Plan of 316
+
+ +Cannes+, Environs of 155
+
+ Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.
+
+ +Cannes+, Plan of 149
+
+ +Corniche Road+ 185
+
+ Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice
+ to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more
+ beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending
+ along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway.
+
+ This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco,
+ and Menton.
+
+ +Dijon+, Plan of 20
+
+ +Estrel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+
+ 146
+
+ +Florence+, Plan of 234
+
+ The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana
+ up to the Piazza Michelangiolo.
+
+ +Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237
+
+ The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast
+ edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long
+ corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the
+ river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by
+ the upper story of the houses bordering the Via
+ Guicciardini.
+
+ +Genoa+, Plan of 214
+
+ +Hyres+, Environs of 129
+
+ As the excursions from Hyres and Toulon are nearly the
+ same, the environs of both towns are given on the same
+ map.
+
+ +Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to
+ Leghorn 199
+
+ Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di
+ Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the
+ "Rhne and Savoy," and parts on a larger scale on the
+ maps of the "Corniche Road" "Marseilles to Cannes," and
+ the "Durance to the Var and San Remo."
+
+ +Leghorn+, Plan of 226
+
+ +Lyons+, General plan of 30
+
+ +Lyons+, Partial plan of 33
+
+ +Marseilles+, Plan of 113
+
+ +Marseilles to Cannes+ 123
+
+ This map shows the position of the towns and villages on
+ the coast and in the interior, the roads between them
+ and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance,
+ enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
+ are given the "Iles d'Or," called also the "Islands of
+ Hyres," of which the largest is Porquerolles.
+
+ +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291
+
+ This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d'Albigny to
+ Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to
+ Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by
+ Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
+ Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake
+ Annecy.
+
+ +Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378
+
+ +Nice+, Plan of 171
+
+ +Nmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101
+
+ +Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated
+ towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg,
+ Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to
+ the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1
+
+ +Pisa+, Plan of 224
+
+ The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find
+ their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral,
+ the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The
+ frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
+ cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who
+ have to remain over the night should take one of the
+ hotels close to the station.
+
+ +Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_
+
+ This map shows all the railway routes in France and
+ their correspondence with the railways in Belgium,
+ Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the
+ railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhne.
+
+ +Rhne and Savoy+ 107
+
+ This map gives the entire course of the Rhne in France,
+ with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon.
+ The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The
+ French Riviera.
+
+ +Savona to Rapallo+ 211
+
+ Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter
+ stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi,
+ Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.
+
+ +The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163
+
+ This map shows principally the position of the towns in
+ the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near
+ Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the
+ diligences which run between France and Italy.
+
+ +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the
+ mountain-passes between them 304
+
+ +The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardche;
+ among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the
+ source of the Loire 84
+
+ +The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the
+ railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200
+
+ +The Mouths of the Rhne+ 66
+
+ Showing the position of the canals and of the great
+ lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are
+ Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon,
+ Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
+ the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from
+ Marseilles (see pp.77, 115, and 338). A little farther
+ down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne
+ canal (p. 66).
+
+ +The plains between the Ardche, Rhne and Durance+, in
+ which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montlimart, Pont-St.
+ Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of
+ interest 56
+
+ +Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107
+
+ +Toulon+, Environs of 129
+
+ This map will be found very useful in the excursions
+ by the small steamers sailing from the port.
+
+ +Troyes+, Plan of 12
+
+ +Turin+, Plan of 293
+
+ +Vichy+, Plan of 359
+
+
+
+
+CARTE DU JOUR.
+
+The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of
+some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the "Cartes du Jour" of the
+restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated.
+
+ [Transcriber's Note:
+ The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may
+ require added salt.]
+
+SOUPS.
+
+ _Consomm_, beef-tea.
+ _Bouillon_, broth.
+ _Potage_, soup.
+ _Julienne_, vegetable soups.
+ _Pure_, pease-soup.
+ _Pure_, when qualifying a noun, means "mashed,"as--
+ _Pure de pommes_, mashed potatoes.
+ " " _marron_, mashed chestnuts.
+
+BEEF.
+
+ _Boeuf au naturel_, or simply "nature," plain boiled beef.
+ _Naturel_ in cookery means "plain."
+ _Boeuf la mode_, beef stewed with carrots.
+ Nearly the same as the next.
+ _Boeuf la jardinire_, beef with vegetables.
+ _Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef.
+ _Aloyau a la jardinire_, sirloin with vegetables.
+ _Aloyau saut_, sirloin in slices.
+ _Saut_ in cookery means "sliced."
+ _Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes.
+ In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_.
+ _Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak.
+ " _aux pommes_, with potatoes.
+ " _aux pommes sautes_, with sliced potatoes.
+ " _aux haricots_, with kidney beans.
+ " _bien cuit_, well done.
+ " _saignant_, under done.
+ _Palais de Boeuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate.
+ _Au gratin_ in cookery means "baked" or "broiled"; when applied
+ to potatoes it means "browned."
+
+MUTTON.
+
+ _Ctelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops.
+ " " " _panes_, mutton chops fried with crumbs.
+ " " " _aux pointes d'asperge_, mutton chops with
+ asparagus tops.
+ " " " _ la pure de pommes_, mutton chops with
+ mashed potatoes.
+ _Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton.
+ _Pieds de mouton_, sheep's trotters.
+ _Gigot d'agneau_, a leg of lamb.
+ _Blanquette d'agneau_, hashed stewed lamb.
+ _Rognons la brochette_, broiled kidneys.
+ " _sauts_, sliced kidneys.
+ _Etuv_, stewed.
+
+VEAL.
+
+ _Ctelette de veau_, veal cutlet.
+ _Tte de veau en vinaigrette_, calf's head with oil and vinegar.
+ _Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf's ear.
+ _Ris de veau_, sweetbread.
+ _Foie de veau_, calf's liver.
+ _Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal.
+ _Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy.
+ _Jus_, gravy.
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+ _Pommes de terre_, potatoes.
+ _Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits.
+ _Asperges la sauce_, asparagus with sauce.
+ _Chou_, cabbage.
+ _Champignons_, mushrooms.
+ _Epinards_, spinage.
+ _Fves de marais_, garden beans.
+ _Haricots verts_, green kidney beans.
+ _Oseille_, sorrel.
+ _Petits pois_, green peas.
+ _Jardinire_ means "dressed with vegetables."
+
+POULTRY AND GAME.
+
+ _Poularde_, fowl.
+ _Poulet_, chicken.
+ _Chapon_, capon.
+ _Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken.
+ _Des oeufs la coque_, boiled eggs.
+ _Dindonneau_, young turkey.
+ _Canard_, duck.
+ _Perdreau_, partridge.
+ _Mauviettes_, field-larks.
+ _Alouettes_, larks.
+ _Grives_, thrushes.
+ _Becasse_, woodcock.
+ _Becassine_, snipe.
+ _Chevreuil_, venison.
+ _Caille_, quail.
+
+FISH.
+
+ _Anguille_, eel.
+ _Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.
+ _Homard_, lobster.
+ _Huitres_, oysters.
+ _Merlans_, whitings.
+ _Morue_, cod.
+ _Raie_, skate.
+ _Saumon_, salmon.
+ _Sole_, sole.
+ _Turbot_, turbot.
+ _Frit_, fried.
+ _Grill_, done on the gridiron.
+
+DESSERT.
+
+ _Compote_, applied to fruits, means "stewed."
+ " _de pommes_, stewed apples.
+ " _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes.
+ _Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters.
+ " " " _souffls_, puffed apple fritters.
+ _Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds.
+
+DRINK.
+
+ _Vin de Bordeaux_, claret.
+ A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought
+ always to be drunk with it, or with common water.
+ At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying
+ a little extra.
+ _Frapp_, applied to liquids, means "iced."
+ _Caraffe frapp_, iced water.
+ _Vin frapp_, iced wine.
+ The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a
+ _choppe_.
+ The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, aword
+ often used in the cheap restaurants.
+
+
+
+
+ [Map:
+ Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c.]
+
+
+THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+ +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyres, Cannes, Nice,
+ Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+
+
+
++PART I.--PARIS TO MARSEILLES.+
+
+BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles.
+
+ Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For
+ "London to Marseilles," see under that head in the "Continental
+ Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway." Through
+ tickets sold at their London office.
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{ }{537}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris Lyon,
+No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or
+40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices,
+distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station.
+Opposite the station is the H. de l'Univers, and a little farther off
+the H.Jules Csar.
+
+_Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details
+as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map
+page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the
+London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to
+Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is 2:7s., time 23 hours;
+starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and
+arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35
+A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts
+for Hyres at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class
+carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate
+compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to
+Hyres, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible,
+not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to
+Hyres (2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense;
+moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most
+inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey
+from Paris to Hyres can be done in 18 hours for 4:13:6.
+
+The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois
+de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which
+here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a
+large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay 60 the year. +St.
+Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Chteau d'Alfort a veterinary college
+with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It
+contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for
+the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the
++Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and
+Robespierre resided here some time.
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.]
+
+9 m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop.
+1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yres, adeep river flowing
+through a verdant valley. 3m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yres,
+pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of
+Henri IV.
+
+ On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on
+ the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas
+ Boileau Despraux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and
+ the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and
+ his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English
+ literature.
+
+[Headnote: MELUN.]
+
+ 13 m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was
+ inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the
+ Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the
+ Yres viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104 ft. high. 28m. S.
+ from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000.
+ _Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St.
+ Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. glise Protestante. Melun,
+ the Melodunum of Julius Csar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and
+ the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which
+ here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names
+ of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.
+ Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway
+ station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on
+ the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is
+ the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied
+ tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the
+ church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre
+ Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street,
+ in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an
+ elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled
+ chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square
+ tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire.
+ In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8
+ windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is
+ the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in
+ the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in
+ 1514, "Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue franaise au 16me
+ sicle." Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of
+ ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome
+ fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry
+ St. Barthlemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,
+ the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the
+ north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent
+ pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau
+ of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From
+ Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,
+ where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.
+
+
+[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.]
+
+ {37}{500}
+ +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from
+ the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30
+ c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most
+ expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et
+ Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d'Or. At the end of the
+ main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la
+ Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is
+ the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirne.
+ The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated
+ among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension
+ Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come
+ for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the
+ Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is
+ a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller's with
+ maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest;
+ a good confectioner's shop and some restaurants, where refreshments
+ can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid
+ of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments
+ at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the
+ Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes' walk.
+
+ Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.
+
+ _Coach Tariff._--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue
+ Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1 fr., of the
+ forest in the shop opposite.
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the
+ day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10
+ frs. for the day.
+
+ Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following
+ prices:--
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4frs. for the
+ first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.
+
+ A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first
+ hour 3frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.
+
+ A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2frs. an
+ hour.
+
+ Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. aday.
+
+ +Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to
+ enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which
+ cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000m. of roads and
+ footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by
+ congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each
+ bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.
+ The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of
+ the rooms on the left side of the "Cour des Adieux," or "du Cheval
+ Blanc," which court forms the _main entrance_. Asmall fee is
+ expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not
+ obligatory.
+
+ To see the "appartements reservs" an especial order is requisite,
+ procured by letter addressed to "M. Le Commandant des Chateaux." The
+ "appartements reservs" comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes
+ a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the
+ household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in
+ showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give
+ will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.
+
+ The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by
+ Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former
+ edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists.
+ Henri IV., who spent 100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the
+ buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of
+ Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. NapoleonI. expended 250,000 upon
+ it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large
+ sums.
+
+[Headnote: ENTRANCE.]
+
+ The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL
+ BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is
+ also called the Cour des Adieux, because here NapoleonI., forsaken by
+ nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the
+ ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself
+ away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On
+ the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the
+ island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the
+ splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his
+ wretchedness.
+
+ As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the
+ following abridged list should be read before entering.
+
+[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINIT.]
+
+ The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which
+ has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars
+ in the wall represents the height of FrancisI. The first place
+ entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinit+, built by FrancisI. in 1529,
+ and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish
+ ambassador having remarked that "the palace would be more beautiful if
+ the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty." Louis XI. was
+ married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was
+ pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, NapoleonIII. was baptized. The
+ paintings are by Frminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and
+ Marie de Mdicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the
+ reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The
+ statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St.
+ Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the
+ escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze
+ angels are by G. Pilon.
+
+[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.]
+
+ Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the
+ Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785.
+ Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hall. Pass
+ now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to
+ the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on
+ which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids,
+ birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+,
+ containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on
+ which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with
+ rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the
+ Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling
+ represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed
+ restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons.
+ Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of
+ relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon
+ de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from FranoisI. and +Henri
+ IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany
+ table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue
+ symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling
+ arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais
+ tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built
+ by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which
+ Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used
+ to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and
+ painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis
+ XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at 2000.
+
+[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.]
+
+ APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on
+ ceiling by Barthlemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On
+ console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to NapoleonI by
+ the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by
+ Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts
+ (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de
+ Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amlie,
+ wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery
+ and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city
+ of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest
+ satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Risener. Clock of Louis
+ XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthlemy,
+ 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain
+ table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the
+
+ GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided
+ into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing
+ mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the
+ sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated
+ on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second
+ daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the
+ room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man,
+ in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then
+ fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by
+ Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the
+ murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut
+ off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made
+ him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour.
+ Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud
+ with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he
+ was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1m. E.
+ from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen
+ Christina's chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her
+ secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore
+ the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and
+ beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the
+ unhappy man, she replied with petulance, "that she could not, and that
+ many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as
+ this coward."
+
+ At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with
+ indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the
+ goddess Diana.
+
+[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS
+AND DES GARDES.]
+
+ We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes
+ by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F.Desportes,
+ 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses,
+ not shown (see page 8). The other leads into
+
+ LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt
+ compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des
+ +Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of
+ Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth 600, gift to the Empress Eugenie.
+ +Salon de FranoisI.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their
+ dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry
+ represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco
+ by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and
+ 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry.
+ +Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the
+ earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates
+ the place where the bed of Marie de Mdicis stood when Louis XIII. was
+ born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the
+ story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the
+ Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to FrancisI. Beautiful marble
+ chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian
+ statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp.
+ Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777.
+ Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis
+ Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are
+ portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the
+ Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine
+ Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance;
+ Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with
+ figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet,
+ 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at
+ each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. Avery pretty
+ little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with
+ the ceiling, leads to the
+
+ ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV.,
+ was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d'Etampes. The frescoes,
+ representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo
+ dell' Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.
+
+ GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Ftes. The most magnificent hall in
+ the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one
+ side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the
+ same number looking to the gardens. It was built by FranoisI., and
+ decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls
+ are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio,
+ Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut,
+ is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls,
+ mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of
+ Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered
+ with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one
+ of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed
+ (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter
+ the
+
+ GALERIE DE FRANOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210
+ ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a
+ communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.
+ Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect.
+ The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso,
+ but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of FranoisI.
+ From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the
+
+ APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited
+ by Catherine de Mdicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.),
+ whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by
+ Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of
+ Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by NapoleonIII. for
+ Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have
+ visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the
+ Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and
+ other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as
+ the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio's best works. Cabinet
+ (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather.
+ Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung
+ with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+
+ Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with
+ Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing
+ the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+
+ (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic
+ given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by
+ Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David.
+ Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Risener, one of the finest
+ in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead
+ of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de
+ Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of
+ Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d'Attente. Gobelins dating
+ from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.
+ +Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.
+ Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.
+
+ GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this
+ gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise
+ Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and
+ some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the
+ walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and
+ incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery
+ leading to the
+
+ SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by NapoleonIII., and seated for
+ 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII.,
+ adorned with a statue of him in stucco.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.]
+
+ LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.
+
+ +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return
+ from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas Becket in 1169. The
+ painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs
+ by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar
+ is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at
+ Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in
+ 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was
+ ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about
+ the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.
+
+ Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle
+ Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same
+ dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the
+ right is the old spiral staircase of FrancisI.
+
+ Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+,
+ ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed.
+ It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p.6).
+
+ Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with
+ pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by
+ J. B. Oudry.
+
+ Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,
+ saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than
+ that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the
+ revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such
+ cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble
+ pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de HenriII. (see
+ p. 7).
+
+ The Muse Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection
+ of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial
+ permission.
+
+
+THE COURTS.
+
+ From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe
+ staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side
+ facing the lake is the Galerie de FranoisI. Having passed through
+ the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have
+ before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to
+ the left the +Porte Dore+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour
+ Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes
+ on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The
+ subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539.
+ And by this portal the Duchesse d'Etampes fled from Fontainebleau,
+ driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left
+ we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow
+ buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the
+ Porte Dore is the device of Francis I., asalamander. The principal
+ entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.
+
+ At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d'Armes, connected
+ with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de
+ Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the
+ artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The
+ gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing
+ particular.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.]
+
+ Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide
+ themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Fort
+ de Fontainebleau, 1 fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate
+ the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction.
+ The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of
+ the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three
+ principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:--
+
+ 1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de
+ Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle
+ Vue--Barbison par le Bas Brau--Gorges d'Apremont et Franchard.
+
+ 2. Valle du Nid de l'Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d'Augas--Vue sur le
+ champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la
+ Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort
+ l'Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa.
+
+ 3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare
+ aux Fes--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd.
+ Maitre.
+
+ The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole
+ forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3m. N.W. from
+ Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2 m. W.The second contains the
+ best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as
+ from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially
+ from the Fort de l'Empereur, about 2 m. N.The Gorge aux Loups in the
+ 3d drive, 3 m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long
+ Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3m. by rail
+ from Fontainebleau.
+
+ After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous
+ grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls
+ and trellis-work.
+
+
+[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{42}{495}
++MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: cu de France. An ancient town on the Loing,
+with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates
+Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is
+principally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th.
+7m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of
+the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.
+
+Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town.
+_Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office.
+Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if
+time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish
+church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining
+of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is
+the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or
+rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here
+unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of
+NapoleonI.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates
+the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill
+overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville.
+Montereau has important potteries.
+
+
+[Headnote: SENS.]
+
+{71}{466}
++SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; cu. The best street,
+the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the
+promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue
+of the chemist Thnard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street
+is the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulme, when she
+visited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which,
+together with the promenade, form agreeable walks.
+
+[Headnote: THOMAS BECKET.]
+
+ The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly
+ rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The faade, though not without
+ beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a
+ belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating
+ with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed
+ arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered
+ colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured
+ canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a
+ beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien,
+ first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining
+ chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by
+ G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the
+ next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall
+ by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in
+ the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied
+ by the Soeurs de l'Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by
+ superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on
+ entering from the faade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass
+ case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple
+ worn by Thomas Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining
+ the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove
+ that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by
+ Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century,
+ and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is
+ valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St.
+ Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon.
+ Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialit, restored
+ by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1m. from the
+ church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the
+ present buildings that existed in Becket's time is the piece parallel
+ to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the
+ Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and
+ 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the
+ foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and
+ canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages
+ were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom.
+ Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour.
+
+[Headnote: TROYES.]
+
+ 41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l'Etat is TROYES, pop.
+ 39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal
+ street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the
+ Rue Htel de Ville, the Htel des Couriers.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.]
+
+ Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
+ canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
+ machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen,
+ which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds
+ sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches,
+ of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St.
+ Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station
+ being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most
+ beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished
+ till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of
+ these intermediate epochs. The fine western faade belongs to the 16th
+ century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th.
+ Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower
+ rising above the western faade. The building is 352 feet long, and
+ the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the
+ nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the
+ front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty
+ clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The
+ height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The
+ glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and
+ over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The
+ marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of
+ choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in
+ wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church HenryV.
+ of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of
+ Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous
+ treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the
+ exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad CharlesVI.
+ should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a
+ Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the
+ church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury,
+ of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century,
+ reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th
+ century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the
+ reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
+ St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. Afew
+ yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
+ _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a
+ large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes.
+ Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul's
+ Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or
+ picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.;
+ [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a
+ valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and
+ works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French
+ sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days
+ from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. Ashort
+ distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little
+ beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the
+ sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th
+ century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture,
+ the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the
+ 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used
+ to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler.
+ A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix
+ over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de
+ l'Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the
+ plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is
+ +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon,
+ while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of
+ the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel "O Sacrum Convivium,"
+ are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by
+ the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the
+ Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+,
+ commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent
+ jub, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The
+ beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The
+ nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
+ architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West
+ from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Htel Mulet. To
+ the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
+ containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a
+ statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the
+ dead.
+
+ [Map: Troyes]
+
+ Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on
+ entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are
+ beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel
+ of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups.
+ The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on
+ consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.
+
+ South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its
+ continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.
+ Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1 mile northwards from the barracks of
+ the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village
+ and church of St. Andr, of which the principal feature is the west
+ portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and
+ ornamented by Gentil.
+
+ Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we
+ have adopted. Acab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two,
+ 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.
+
+[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.]
+
+ The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo
+ during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city.
+ Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in
+ 1814.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{79}{458}
++VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle
+here of Pulteau the man "au masque de Fer" spent some days while on his
+way to the Bastile (p.158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint
+Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5m. beyond, or 84m. from Paris, is
+St.Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. Apoor town,
+nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which
+the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong
+to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th
+cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a
+ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent.
+
+
+{91}{446}
++JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between
+the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right
+bank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most important
+part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which
+are situated St. Andr, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.;
+and St. Thibault, 15th cent.
+
+
+{96}{441}
++LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armanon
+and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les
+Laumes, 79m. southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,
+Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p.1.)
+
+
+[Headnote: AUXERRE.]
+
+LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.
+
+ 12 m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the
+ hill rising from the river; Htel Laspard. Seen from the station, the
+ most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain,
+ to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or
+ Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was
+ rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over
+ the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are
+ crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and
+ of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and
+ the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet
+ high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.
+ transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.
+ Adjoining is the Prfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in
+ the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of
+ St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in
+ the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated
+ tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the
+ 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.
+
+ Near the Htel de l'p is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the
+ 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the
+ capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around
+ the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk
+ is a statue of Marchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and
+ Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)
+
+ 13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Htel Lion d'Or, on
+ the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the
+ well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur,
+ Vauxdsir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality
+ of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty
+ flavour.
+
+ Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Htel de l'Esprance, on the Yonne, nearly
+ a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the
+ junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les
+ Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and
+ 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)
+
+[Headnote: SERMIZELLES.]
+
+ 37 miles from La Roche, 14 miles from Cravant, and 42 miles from
+ Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6 miles distant),
+ for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1 fr. At the station there
+ is a comfortable little inn, the Htel de la Gare, where a private
+ vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont
+ Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pre; then
+ back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.
+
+[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.]
+
+ +Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Htel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed
+ town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical
+ edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le
+ Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the
+ 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of
+ the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior
+ is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The
+ doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide
+ expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large
+ window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a
+ spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities
+ connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate
+ the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it
+ is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave
+ opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed
+ windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing
+ from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar
+ capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and
+ choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches
+ which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door
+ opens into what was formerly the "salle capitulaire," built in the
+ 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who
+ also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir.
+ Near the abbey church is St. Martin's, 12th cent., and St. Etienne,
+ now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as
+ parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas Becket celebrated
+ mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful
+ forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of
+ excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have
+ included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at
+ that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under
+ Richard Coeur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out
+ on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June
+ 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms
+ Calvin expired.
+
+ 1 m. from Vezelay is St. Pre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of
+ the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5m. from St.
+ Pre is the Chteau Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.
+
+[Headnote: SEMUR.]
+
+ 9 m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the
+ Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St.
+ Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of
+ Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for
+ Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Htel de la Poste. An
+ interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards
+ of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from
+ fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Fort de
+ Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine
+ in rafts.
+
+ After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and
+ then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12 from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop.
+ 4150. _Hotels:_ Cte d'Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the
+ Armanon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre
+ Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in
+ the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a
+ sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass;
+ the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In
+ this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16 feet
+ high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant
+ walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the
+ ramparts still remain. 12 miles N.E. this branch line joins the main
+ line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map
+ page 1.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{107}{429}
++SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In
+town, H.Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
+starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
+Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
+separates from the Chablis road.
+
+Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The
+parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The
+windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.
+The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes
+standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful
+rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a
+relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection
+of Jesus Christ.
+
+At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Htel St. loi,
+but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the
+abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre,
+13m. S.W., stopping at a caf near the station. The greater part of the
+church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with
+narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand
+and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72ft. wide, and 72 high, and is
+upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11
+chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. Arow of small round-headed
+windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly
+similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are
+the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a
+village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, aplain wooden
+coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the
+building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the
+sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for
+the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey
+buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited
+by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to
+wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious
+deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an
+austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with
+engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund.
+
+Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained
+till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to
+Sens.
+
+
+[Headnote: TONNERRE.]
+
+{123}{414}
++TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armanon. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or; Courriers--
+both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion
+d'Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the
+cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right
+above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water,
+enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse
+Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the
+washerwomen. Astraight street to the right of the Lion d'Or leads down
+to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by
+Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her
+remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar
+(died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis
+de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some
+excellent wine.
+
+
+[Headnote: TANLAY.]
+
+{127}{409}
++TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armanon. A small village with a handsome
+castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de
+Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of
+Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast faade is flanked by two wings. The
+principal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the
+Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under
+the presidency of Admiral Coligny. Afresco on the ceiling represents,
+under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the most
+prominent part in the political and religious events of that period.
+Catherine de Mdicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the
+Cond as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed
+recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the
+splendid chimney-pieces is 12 feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds
+are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier,
+both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel,
+pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for
+truffles.
+
+
+[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.]
+
+{136}{401}
++ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545,
+and built according to the plans of Primaticcio.
+
+
+{142}{395}
++NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris and
+Ble line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles
+north-east to Bricon, passing Chtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits.
+In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armenon are the ruins of the castle of
+Rochefort, 17th and 18th cents.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTBARD.]
+
+{151}{386}
++MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Htel de la
+Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small village
+on the 7th of September 1707. His chteau, aplain large house, is
+entered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station.
+The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the western
+front of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows and
+one door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue his
+studies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds of
+the chteau, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of the
+Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by his
+son, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days
+before the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at the
+entrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb of
+Buffon. Ablack stone slab over the door bears the following
+inscription:--
+
+ BUFFON
+ A t inhum dans le
+ Caveau de cette chapelle
+ Le 20 Avril 1788.
+
+There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3 miles from Montbard is the
+abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.
+
+
+{160}{377}
++LES LAUMES.+ _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount
+Auxois, 1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1 mile from
+the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_
+H. du Cheval Blanc), where Csar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under
+Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal byV. le Duc, stands
+just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has
+some curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of
+September. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Chteau Bussy Rabutin, in a
+beautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of
+the abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable
+collection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists.
+(See page14.)
+
+
+{165}{372}
++DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steep
+mountains 1315 ft. high. _Inn:_ Htel Guyot. Near the village are
+curious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus
+at station for +Flavigny+, 1 mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390
+ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent.,
+with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Convent
+of the Ursulines, with splendid view.
+
+
+[Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE.]
+
+{171}{365}
++VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Htel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the
++Source of the Seine+, 6 miles S. by the path over the hill through the
+woods, but 9 by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the
+village of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards
+Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5miles from Verrey, and after passing the
+farmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left
+and follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomtre (Cte
+d'Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first
+the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine
+(1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a
+little garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house
+beyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of a
+recumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or
+guide 5frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please
+can go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5miles
+south, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d'Or. With a 14th cent, church.
+Adiligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine
+is Blaizy-Bas, 7m. distant.
+
+
+{179}{358}
++BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces
+through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhne. It is 13,440 feet
+long, and 1330 feet above the sea.
+
+
+{190}{347}
++VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and before
+reaching the next station, Plombires-sur-Ouche, there is some bold
+railway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers
+of arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long.
+From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74 miles from
+Nevers. (For Autun, see page24.)
+
+ [Map: DIJON
+
+ The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle
+ built by Louis XI., now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the
+ Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Prfecture. That large
+ building at the foot of the Rue Cond, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient
+ Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Htel de Ville, the
+ Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6
+ St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is
+ the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No.8) is St.
+ Bnigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is
+ St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.]
+
+[Headnote: DIJON.]
+
+{196}{341}
++DIJON+, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_
+La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Near
+the Cloche is the Galre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and the
+Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genve. Dijon is famous for mustard,
+gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.
+
+Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding hour.
+Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.
+Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Htel du Commerce,
+82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3 hours. From St. Seine an excellent
+road leads to the source of the Seine, 5m. distant. (See page19.)
+
+[Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS.]
+
+The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was
+inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire;
+but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, the
+Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor,
+and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, and
+commanding a bird's-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, and
+is occupied by the Htel de Ville, the Post Office, the cole des Beaux
+Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the right
+side of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Other
+days a fee of 1fr. is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are the
+magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son
+Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the
+two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white
+marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty
+statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the
+articles which belonged to them in this room are three
+beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;
+and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and
+the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died
+1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two
+statues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each,
+but in reality 6feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few
+choice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is
+considered one of the best. Down stairs is the Muse Archologique, and
+the kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys.
+Fronting the Palais is the Place d'Armes, with its shops and houses
+arranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue
+des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence
+of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the
+spiral staircase is the "Homme au panier," astatue 4feet 6 inches in
+height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or
+serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,
+like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the
+roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine
+Renaissance faade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54
+of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double
+arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME.] Close to the
+Rue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, avery beautiful
+and interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is
+the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the Rue
+Chaudronnire, the Maison des Cariatides. Ashort distance from the
+front of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly the
+palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d'Assises
+is of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same
+room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty
+little chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre
+is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the
+18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street,
+R.Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious
+frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue
+Guillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in
+1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and
+a little to the N.E. by a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St.
+Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau
+beside the curious little church, 2miles N.W. by the road of that name.
+[Headnote: ST.BENIGNE. ST.JEAN. BOSSUET.] Towards the right is St.
+Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built
+in 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805.
+The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the
+13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski
+(1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In
+the N. aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains of
+Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a
+narthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillery
+store. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,
+founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in
+1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery
+of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without
+merit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this
+"Place," 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and
+illustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death of
+Henrietta Anne, the daughter of our CharlesI., and wife of the Duke of
+Orleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALINS.] At
+the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile des
+Alins+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379.
+Fee, 1fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are the kneeling
+effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts.
+Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautiful
+glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken to
+the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22 feet in diameter, consisting of a
+hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets,
+by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the ducal monuments
+in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful,
+and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on an
+average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but an
+admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura
+are comfortable houses, and although La Galre is less so, its charges
+are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number of
+pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d'eau,
+and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards the
+extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southern
+continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny,
+the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to the
+public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopes
+of the famous wine producing hills of the Cte d'Or, extending from N.E.
+to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises
+another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering the
+lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow the
+first-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Macon
+wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten years
+in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.
+
+
+[Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.]
+
+{203}{334}
++GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1 mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for their
+first-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin.
+Bze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vroilles, in the commune of Gevrey,
+produce also first-class Burgundies.
+
+
+{206}{330}
++VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, -mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier.
+Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class
+Burgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romane St. Vivant,
+Romane Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache.
+
+
+{209}{327}
++NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The
+best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of an
+exquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St.
+Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent., and St. Denis to the 14th.
+8miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house of
+detention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to be
+agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in
+1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order,
+and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St.
+Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798.
+
+
+[Headnote: BEAUNE.]
+
+{219}{318}
++BEAUNE+, pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream
+Buzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal in
+Burgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it
+are the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romane. Of
+these the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most
+valuable wine, under the names of Bouche d'Or and Caillerets, and the
+Pommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The
+principal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains
+semicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian
+capitals.
+
+In the Place Monge, off the street de l'Ile, is a bronze statue to
+Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in
+1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic
+School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the
+15th cent.--a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseil
+upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting of
+the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, with
+a chteau built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide,
+the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Perce.
+
+
+[Headnote: MEURSAULT.]
+
+{223}{313}
++MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1 m. from the station. Omnibus awaits
+passengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here are
+the Goutte d'Or, agolden-coloured wine, and the Perrires, adry white
+wine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny,
+where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.
+
+
+{228}{309}
++CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers
+102m. W., passing Nolay 5m. W., Autun 26m. W., Montchanin 18m. W.,
+and Le Creusot 22m. W. (see page 25, and map page1). From Chagny
+southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around
+Chagny produce a first-class quality.
+
+ Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in
+ this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. Afew miles distant is
+ the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a deep
+ fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3 m. E. are the ruins of the
+ castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a
+ remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal
+ mines.
+
+[Headnote: AUTUN.]
+
+ 26 m. W. from Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche.
+ This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trves
+ the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Csar spent
+ a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period,
+ when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his
+ headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that
+ the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into
+ Autun. Napoleon III., in his "History of Csar," considers, however,
+ that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14
+ miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of
+ pottery, and an enormous number of amphor, have been discovered. The
+ walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and 8feet thick, and
+ were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of
+ which two--the Porte d'Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. Andr,
+ lately restored--still remain. The Porte d'Arroux and the temple of
+ Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the
+ Porte St. Andr, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of
+ the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the
+ entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern
+ portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers
+ have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior
+ contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a
+ handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the
+ Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) across road leads
+ to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great
+ antiquity.
+
+ In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the
+ Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789
+ Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.
+
+[Headnote: MONTCHANIN.]
+
+ 73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18m. W. from Chagny, is
+ +Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits
+ passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly
+ of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits,
+ foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town
+ is the tang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which
+ connects the Sane with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.
+
+[Headnote: LE CREUSOT.]
+
+ 78 m. E. from Nevers, 7 m. W. from Montchanin, and 26m. W. from
+ Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in
+ the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the
+ principal street, the Rue d'Autun. Their coaches await passengers.
+ Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which
+ enclose this valley, 1 mile long and mile wide, occupied by the
+ coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them
+ from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling
+ suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general
+ feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks,
+ shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few
+ priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two
+ hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878
+ by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is
+ imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all
+ manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise.
+
+ West from Le Creusot, and 65 m. E. from Nevers, is +Etang+, with an
+ ancient castle. 51 m. E. from Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the
+ Alne. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12m. to St.
+ Honor-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90 Fahr. 33m.
+ E. from Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53m. south from Clamecy
+ by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix,
+ close to station. 23 m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_
+ Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in
+ the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais,
+ which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish
+ church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the
+ 10th cent., containing the tomb of St. Ar. Foundries, glass bottle
+ works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SANE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{235}{302}
++CHALON-SUR-SANE+, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ at the station, Htel
+Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer to
+Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plain
+on the Sane, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good
+quays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, aGothic edifice of the
+latter part of the 13th cent., occupying the site of a church founded in
+532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St.
+Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, and
+another at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2miles from Chalon
+is St. Marcel, where Ablard died 1142. The church still remains, but
+the monastery has disappeared. Afew miles west by coach is Givry, pop.
+3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to
+
+
+{243}{294}
++VARENNES.+ South from this station the train passes before the abbey of
+St. Ambreuil.
+
+
+{254}{283}
++TOURNUS+, on the Sane, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Htel Sauvage, not clean. An
+untidy town on the Sane, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the
+Place de l'Htel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the
+citizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among
+the finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here
+on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting
+Gothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and
+the latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics.
+The Htel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charit in 1718,
+and the Htel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce
+good wines.
+
+ [Map:
+ The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy.]
+
+
+[Headnote: MACON.]
+
+{274}{263}
++MACON+, pop. 20,000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with
+line to Bourg, 41m. E. _Hotels._--Near the station, H. trangers. In
+town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the
+steamers, which sail daily up and down the Sane, between Chalons,
+Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs
+Elyses and Sauvage. Macon is the great dept of the Macon wines, an
+inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays
+which line the right side of the Sane, crossed by a stone bridge of 12
+arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of
+the river. The oldest edifice is the +Cathedral+ of St. Vincent, built
+in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, and
+the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Prfecture, formerly the Episcopal
+palace. In this neighbourhood, at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house
+where Lamartine was born. On a black marble slab over the door are the
+words:--Ici est n Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre
+1790.
+
+In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, the
+beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque style,
+and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Htel de Ville.
+
+From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to Paray-le-Monial,
+passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line extends to Geneva
+74m. E., by Bourg 13m. E., Nantua and Bellegards 39m. E. (See
+Black's _France_, North Half, and map page1.)
+
+[Headnote: CLUNY.]
+
+ +Cluny+, pop. 5000. In the valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne;
+ Pavilions--both near each other. This is the place where
+ Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in the 10th cent, the famous abbey of
+ Cluny. The abbey buildings are now used as a school. Of the abbey
+ church an insignificant portion alone remains, and of it the most
+ interesting part is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th
+ cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards
+ distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., with flattened
+ elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the
+ entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the first
+ church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;
+ entrance, -franc each.
+
+[Headnote: PARAY-LE-MONIAL.]
+
+ 41 m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial,
+ pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across the
+ bridge, the Lion d'Or; at the head of the principal street, near the
+ Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the
+ Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de
+ Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice
+ built in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to
+ it, occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.
+
+ A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish
+ church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th
+ cent. Over the faade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal
+ roofs, llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an
+ octagonal tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated
+ spire. From the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and
+ short attached columns.
+
+ From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads
+ up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and
+ established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the
+ monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their
+ chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in
+ 1854. To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in
+ this building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her
+ interviews with J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are painted
+ light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so hung
+ with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of them
+ is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J.C. and 3 angels
+ before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair and dressed
+ in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red and
+ outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds
+ her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of
+ her. To the left of entrance the pictures are--1st, aVision; 2d,
+ Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of
+ Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The picture
+ over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when J.C.
+ is said to have declared to Margaret: "I have chosen and sanctified
+ this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for ever." On
+ the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied by
+ numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders
+ of the "Visitation" and of "Jesus" (the Jesuits) were to have the
+ special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship
+ there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of
+ J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing one
+ of the above incidents.
+
+ The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in
+ the habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a
+ coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with
+ rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft.
+ long. On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail;
+ at other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made
+ of one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born
+ 22d July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the
+ convent of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the
+ vows on the 6th November 1672. On the day when J.C. told her she had
+ been chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was
+ seized with a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her
+ life. She met at first with great opposition in her endeavours to
+ institute the worship of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as
+ a visionary till 1675, when the R. P. de la Colombire, superior of
+ the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last
+ illness she said: "I shall die in peace, because the heart of my
+ Saviour commences to be known." She died in October 1690, and was
+ canonised by Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution
+ of N. D. de Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has
+ decreased. In Paray there are 3 nunneries and a vast building
+ belonging to the Jesuits.
+
+ From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Sane,
+ whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page
+ 26.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROMANECHE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{283}{254}
++ROMANECHE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine,
+with a pleasant flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should
+be drunk in the second year from the vintage.
+
+
+[Headnote: BELLEVILLE.]
+
+{288}{248}
++BELLEVILLE+, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the
+next Belleville, 1m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn,
+the H.Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small
+round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in
+those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small
+circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the
+Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10m. W. to
+Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardire. Church, 13th cent., and some curious
+houses. (Map, page26.)
+
+
+{297}{240}
++VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SANE+, pop. 12,600, on the river Morgan, near the
+Sane. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. Containing important linen
+manufactories, and vineyards producing a good white wine. The parish
+church, N.D. des Marais, was commenced in the 14th cent. 5m. S. is
+Trvoux station, 1m. from the town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the
+Sane. _Inns:_ Terrasse; France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in
+this town the _Journal de Trvoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de
+Trvoux_ in 1704.
+
+
+{306}{231}
++ST. GERMAIN AU-MONT-D'OR+, junction with line from Paris to Lyons, by
+Roanne and Tarare.
+
+
+[Headnote: LYONS.]
+
+{318}{219}
++LYONS+, pop. 343,000. The Perrache railway station is 218m. from
+Paris, 219m. from Marseilles, 78m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36m. from
+Bourg, 104m. from Geneva, 36m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,
+100 from Vichy, and 214m. from Turin.
+
+_Hotels (first-class)._--H. de l'Europe, admirably situated, with one
+side to the Sane and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the Place
+Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de la
+Rpublique are the H.Collet and the H. de Lyon. H.Bellecour in the
+Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the R. de l'Htel de Ville, also
+well situated. In the Place Perrache, below the station, are the hotels
+Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du Parc.
+
+_Less expensive Hotels._--The H. du Globe; and the Havre et du
+Luxemburg--both near the Place Bellecour. Near the Place des Terreaux in
+the R.Platire, the H. de Paris et du Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des
+Ngociants, alarge house frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the
+Ngociants, at No. 47 Rue de l'Htel de Ville, the H.Bayard. Htel des
+trangers, Place de la Rpublique. Htel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg,
+8frs., in the Place Perrache, opposite the station. Htel National,
+opposite the theatre. On the Quai do la Charit, near the General
+Hospital, the H.Bourne. Agreat many diligences start from this
+neighbourhood. Htel de France et des 4 Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine,
+close to the Place des Terreaux, one of the cheapest. Among the best
+cafs are the Caf Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Caf
+Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la Rpublique; Caf du Rhne,
+Place Bellecour. They have English newspapers. In Lyons the term
+Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, cordials, and brandies are
+sold.
+
+_Post Office._--Head Post Office in the Place de la Charit, at the
+south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade of
+the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.
+
+_Telegraph._--Head office, No. 53 Place de la Rpublique. Branch
+offices--Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand.
+
+[Headnote: RAILWAY STATIONS. CAB FARES.]
+
+_Railway Stations._--The great and central station is the +Gare de
+Perrache+, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhne and the
+Sane. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on the
+railway to Bourg. The +Bourg or Satonay+ railway station is at the top
+of the Rue Terme, astreet commencing near the N.E. corner of the Place
+des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the hill by a
+rope in the same way as at Fourvire. The gradient is 16 per 100, and
+the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de la Croix
+Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway carriages. The
+rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a convenient way
+of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The Dombes or +St.
+Paul's+ railway station is for Montbrison, 40m. S.W. The Vaise and
+Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the Perrache station. The
+Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the Parc de la Tte d'Or,
+is the terminus of the best of the trams.
+
+ CAB FARES
+ +-------------------------+-----------------------+----------------+
+ | | DE 7 H. DU MATIN | DE MINUIT |
+ | | a Minuit. | a 7 H. du Mat. |
+ | KIND OF CAB. +-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+ | | La |La 1re.| Les H.| La | |
+ | |course.|heure. | suiv. |course.|l'heure.|
+ +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+ |A 2 places (coups) | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 25 | 1 65 | 2 50 |
+ |A 4 places (berlines) | 1 50 | 2 | 1 50 | 2 | 3 |
+ |Voitures dcouvertes | | | | | |
+ | 2 places| 1 75 | 2 | 1 75 | 2 15 | 3 |
+ | 4 places| 2 | 2 50 | 2 | 2 50 | 3 50 |
+ +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+
+The "coups" are cabs with a seat for two. The "berlines" are cabs with
+2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations the
+omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.
+
+ [Map: Lyons]
+
+[Headnote: TRAMWAYS. THEATRES. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Tramways._--The fares are moderate, and most of the cars comfortable.
+The best to take to see the principal parts of the town is the large
+roomy car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteaux
+railway station, passing through the P.Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue
+Bourbon, P.Bellecour, R. and P. de la Rpublique between the Htel de
+Ville and the Grand Theatre, across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour
+Morand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At the
+Brotteaux terminus the road by the side of the fort "des Charpennes"
+leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tte d'Or (see page 40), which
+having visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10
+minutes, or by the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charit.
+The outside of the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4.
+The two most important places to visit on the return journey are the
+Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38).
+Tram between the Place de la Charit and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare
+outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out
+at the bridge before crossing the Sane. Oullins, 3m. from Lyons, pop.
+4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.
+
+_Theatres._--The +Grand Thtre+, between the Htel de Ville and the
+Rhne. Boxes and front stalls, 6frs. The +Thtre des Clestins+,
+between the Rue St. Dominique and the Sane. Boxes, 6frs.; stalls,
+4frs. +Thtre Bellecour+, No. 85 Rue de la Rpublique, quite a new
+theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for
+3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls
+cost 7frs. each; for a play, 4frs. There are also the Thtre des
+Varits, Cours de Morand; Thtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. Antoine; and
+the Thtre de l'Elyse, 3 Place de la Victoire.
+
+_Steamers on the Sane_ (Les Gupes).--Sail between the Quai St. Antoine
+(to the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In
+summer 5 departures daily.
+
+Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place Perrache,
+by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quai
+de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the Pont du Port
+another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling likewise at
+numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, and between
+them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.
+
+The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. Claire
+on the +Rhne and Aix-les-Bains+ on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
+Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, calling at
+the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing and shipping
+of cargo.
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
+
+_Sights._--Notre-Dame-de-Fourvire (see below). Drive in tram car,
+outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteaux
+railway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tte d'Or, page 40. The
+galleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silk
+manufacture, page38.
+
+Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest
+rivers in France, the Rhne and the Sane, which form as they approach
+each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part
+of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,
+the Rue de la Rpublique, the R. de l'Htel de Ville, and the
+R.Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful
+squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place
+Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In
+the centre was a bronze statue of NapoleonI. by Nieuwerkerke, which was
+taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the
+municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour
+(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with
+trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,
+which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in
+1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two
+squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,
+during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,
+on the east the Htel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings
+pierced by an arcade decorated by P.Delorme and Maupin (see page37).
+
+The Rhne is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Sane by 13. The extent of
+substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24
+miles. For sailing on the Rhne the best steamers are the Bateaux
+Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind
+the Htel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short
+sails on the Sane the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page31.
+
+ [Map: Lyons]
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE-DAME-DE-FOURVIRE. ROPE RAILWAY.]
+
+The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of
++Notre-Dame-de-Fourvire+, standing on the site of the forum erected by
+Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvire is
+supposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible,
+even should there be no time for anything else, on account of the
+excellent bird's-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces.
+At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt+ across the Sane, at the
+upper side of the "Place," is the rope railway, which ascends through
+tunnels the hill of Fourvire, the length of the Place des Minimes about
+ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right
+hand, by the broad road, l'Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road
+is a large ugly edifice, the Hpital de l'Antiquaille, especially
+devoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has
+accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman
+palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this
+hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Monte de Fourvire,
+lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the
+pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,
+medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels.
+
+[Headnote: OBSERVATOIRE GAY. ST. PAUL.]
+
+On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Sane, is
+the chapel of the "miraculous" image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvire, from
+which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6 ft. high.
+This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb
+view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are
+immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont
+Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church
+below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.
+The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,
+which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.
+It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object
+in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an
+octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the
+four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three
+large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top
+of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff
+sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the
+neighbourhood are convents. Alittle eastward is the "Observatoire Gay,"
+from which a steep path, the Monte des Carmes Dchausses, 536 yards
+long, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station of
+the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this station is the
+church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful N. portal, the
+handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, afew of the
+windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church of
+the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches of
+Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which they
+are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent.
+
+[Headnote: ST. IRNE.]
+
+The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue
+Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvire and within a very short
+distance of the church of +St. Irne+, on the summit of a hill in the
+suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irne are a
+Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by
+the Rhne and the Sane. By the N. side of the church is the entrance
+into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,
+which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the
+first flight an inscription states: "Cette crypte fut construite par St.
+Patient evque de Lyon au V sicle sur l'emplacement du lieu ou St.
+Pothin et St. Irne, envoys a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l'aptre
+St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y
+furent ensevelis." On the second arch another inscription states that in
+1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of
+animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irne,
+restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the
+saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first
+flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the
+original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were
+thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,
+A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c.
+The church of St. Irne has nothing particular. To the west, in the
+parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
+water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable of
+supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply of
+Lyons is obtained from the Rhne.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL OF ST. JEAN.]
+
+Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the Tilsit
+bridge, is the +Cathedral+ of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th cent.,
+repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and
+reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates
+from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the faade from the
+13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely
+decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from
+W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th
+cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown
+flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right
+hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother
+Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,
+and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of
+the arches and the vault of the roof are richly decorated. In the N.
+transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in
+1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an Asiatic
+Greek, who preached in this city A.D. 177, and sealed his doctrines with
+his blood. Adjoining the S. aisle is the Mancanterie, 11th cent.,
+formerly the bishop's place, now the music school for the choristers.
+
+A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)
+occupied in the 13th cent. by the +Knight Templars+. Above the cathedral
+is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of the large
+market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24
+Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the court
+rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up--the Pont de
+Nemours--leads directly to the church of +Saint Nizier+, with the faade
+towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de l'Htel de Ville.
+The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by Philibert Delorme,
+anative of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. The rest of the
+building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a broad triforium
+with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the church. The vaulting
+shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In the chapel of the south
+transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the foot of the pier in this
+transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th cent. At the south side
+of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, amodern edifice, with a beautiful
+portal of the 11th cent., all that remains of the original church.
+
+[Headnote: PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS.]
+
+On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the +Palais des
+Beaux-Arts+, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames Bndictines
+de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the museums. Open
+to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from 11 to 4, and
+to strangers daily.
+
+[Headnote: MUSE LAPIDAIRE.]
+
+Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are the
+ancient marbles or +Muse Lapidaire+, one of the best in Europe. The
+sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, in
+many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these records
+of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the Augustan age
+upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of that day were
+already "feeling after" Christianity. In the left corner of the court on
+entering is the stair which leads up to the Archological Museum and the
+Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. Up on the second floor is the
+collection of paintings by the "peintres lyonnais."
+
+[Headnote: MUSE ARCHOLOGIQUE.]
+
+The Muse Archologique is well arranged and carefully labelled. The
+only object we would indicate, as it is apt to be overlooked, is the
+bronze table, A.D. 48, in the second room left hand, with inscribed
+portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, imploring
+the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a Roman
+colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This table
+was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sbastien. Germanicus,
+and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, were also
+born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time prefect of
+Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs in
+hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,
+armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,
+rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on
+the Fourvire heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic
+collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at
+Lyons from 43 B.C. to 1857. Adjoining and on the same floor is the
+Picture Gallery, contained in six small rooms, of which the first three
+contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, the next two the Italian and
+Spanish schools, and the sixth the French school. They are all carefully
+labelled. Among the pictures which represent the Flemish school are
+works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich,
+Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish schools are
+represented by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo,
+Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor of the fourth room is a remarkably
+perfect mosaic pavement, 5 yards by 3, representing chariot races in
+the Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay.
+
+[Headnote: GALERIE CHENAVARD.]
+
+In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie
+Chenavard on the first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him
+illustrative of the scenes which accompanied the introduction of
+Christianity into France. They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris,
+but, the age of reason supervening, they were not sent. On the floors
+are three beautiful mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above
+are the best pictures--J.F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,
+P.Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619;
+P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E.L. David, 1748-1825;
+Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens,
+Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillire, M.Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J.
+Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension of Christ,
+considered the gem of the collection. This picture, originally in the
+church of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII. "in
+attestato del suo affetto della grata sua rimembranza per la citta di
+Lione." The lower part of the picture is by far the best, the figures in
+the air are too massive, and the posture of J.C. is stiff. J.Ribera,
+1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael,
+A. del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565;
+Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.
+
+The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the
++Mineralogical Collection+, in which are represented the characteristic
+rocks and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores
+from the mine of Chessy, near Arbrsle; and a library containing 40,000
+engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the
+arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every
+evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothque de la Ville.
+
+[Headnote: PLACE TERREAUX. HTEL DE VILLE.]
+
+On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Htel de Ville, built
+in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of 320,000. The facade, flanked by domed
+square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft.
+long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Prfecture. From the
+centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the faade over the
+entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within the
+vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the
+brothers Coustou, representing the Rhne and the Sane. They stood
+originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.
+
+In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, in
+the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting in
+the Htel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it
+became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the
+executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish
+this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.
+
+[Headnote: CONDITION DES SOIES.]
+
+Behind the Htel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, is
+the establishment of the +Condition des Soies+, where the bales of silk
+brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron
+grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from
+64 to 72 Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.
+The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first
+story, left hand. Any one may visit it. Alittle higher up are St.
+Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite
+end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.
+
+[Headnote: BOURSE. LIBRARY.]
+
+In the Rue de la Rpublique is the +Bourse+, aprofusely ornamented
+edifice inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built
+in the 14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lyce
+with the public library, containing the great terrestrial globe made at
+Lyons in 1701, indicating the great African lakes, the rediscovery of
+which has been one of the events of the present century. There are
+160,000 volumes and 2500 manuscripts,--about 600 of the printed works
+being incunabula, and 25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian
+period.
+
+[Headnote: SILK MUSEUM.]
+
+In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the +Art and
+Manufacture+ of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays
+between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,
+specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to
+centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far
+the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first
+and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly
+artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely
+designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the
+hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting
+posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also
+the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms
+from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains
+part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom
+made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to
+produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely
+changing the "cartoons" to make the most different textures on the same
+loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was
+B.Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are improved
+copies.
+
+The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of
+silk--displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, as
+well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every
+condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and
+hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.
+Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.
+
+Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for
+these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to
+hold their place in the market against especially their Crfeld rivals,
+have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure
+is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, which makes a silk
+dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, with an occasional
+alteration, it was worn for years.
+
+In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large covered
+markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive in
+tanks, and good Mont d'Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway
+travelling provision. (See page42.)
+
+[Headnote: CITY HOSPITAL AND WORKHOUSE.]
+
+Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhne, and the
+other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l'Hpital, is the +Htel
+Dieu+, or general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by
+Childebert and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally
+the work of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the
+beds, about 1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1 fr. to 12 frs. per
+day. The rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards
+are arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under
+the small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from
+their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,
+containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are
+tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the
+Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at
+Oullins for incurables.
+
+In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.
+Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at
+Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a
+built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it
+is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.
+
+Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly
+decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,
+of Sainte Valentine.
+
+Farther down the Rhne is the Hospice de la Charit, founded in 1531, on
+the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes who
+have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be
+mothers. The church was built in 1617.
+
+[Headnote: ST. MARTIN D'AINAY.]
+
+North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across the
+Sane, is the church of +St. Martin d'Ainay+, which, with the monastery,
+was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, on the site
+of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour of Csar
+Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the Saracens, in the
+8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by Pope
+PascalII. Since then it has been frequently repaired and altered. The
+style belongs to what is called modern Greek, introduced into France
+under Charlemagne. The cupola of the chancel rests on circular
+pendentive arches springing from four granite columns which stood
+formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were originally 2, but were cut
+into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal chapels are by H.Flandrin,
+anative of +Lyons+. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint
+Blandina, in which a short stair leads down to the crypt and the
+dungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and
+Blandina, aconverted slave, were kept before being tortured and put to
+death in A.D. 177, during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, the
+implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. square, was,
+as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on account of the
+overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to their present
+level.
+
+[Headnote: PARC DE LA TTE-D'OR.]
+
+The Parc de la Tte-d'Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E.
+extremity of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the
+left bank of the Rhne. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an
+abundant supply of varied walks, alarge and excellent botanic garden
+with hothouses, alake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a
+dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale.
+Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the
+Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of
+objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history,
+religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The
+institution publishes essays and translations.
+
+By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large
+barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.
+
+Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of
+silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on
+the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom
+has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings,
+are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can
+work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more
+_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La Croix
+Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvires, on the Sane.
+The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of looms,
+who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a finished
+state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is estimated
+at 15,000,000.
+
+[Headnote: THE DYEING OF SILK--ORIGIN OF LYONS.]
+
+The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. Many
+experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and in
+particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its
+colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he
+received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour.
+Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a
+brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand.
+Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a
+permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk
+were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The
+worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed
+in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of
+persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is
+now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of
+gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries,
+foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and
+hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. Alarge trade
+is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring departments,
+and known as _marrons de Lyon_.
+
+The earliest Gallic occupants of the territory at the confluence of the
+Rhne and the Sane were the Segusians. In 590 B.C. some Greek refugees
+from the banks of the Hrault, having obtained permission of the natives
+to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, called their new town by
+the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 B.C. Munatius Plancus brought a
+Roman colony to Fourvires from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired
+importance, and was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great
+roads. Augustus, besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre,
+gave it a senate and made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies
+from the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of
+Forum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the
+_jus senatus_. The town, burnt by Nero in 59 A.D., was rebuilt by him in
+a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus.
+
+[Headnote: MONT-D'OR. CHEESE.]
+
+Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions from
+Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus starting
+from the Rue de la Platire to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d'Or,
+3m., time 1 hr., by a road always ascending. Fare, fr. The omnibus
+office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the caf, are on a wide terrace
+commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is poor and dirty,
+and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont Ceindre walk from the
+omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend by the telegraph
+posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent and descent can be done
+easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to Lyons by the returning
+coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some houses, an old hermitage, and
+a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. The view is grand, embracing
+the valleys of the Rhne and the Sane, the towns of Bugey and
+Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphin, and the Alps. Mont
+Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 ft.; and Mont Houx,
+2008 ft., form together +Mont-d'Or+, agroup of mountains covered with
+vineyards and meadows. The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the
+best and most celebrated in France. They are soft, round, and flat,
+about 5 inches in diameter and half an inch thick, like round pancakes.
+They are made from a mixture of cow and goat's milk, and are said to
+derive their peculiar flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats
+feed during a considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore
+(likewise famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small
+boxes. The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by
+Roche-Cardon, afavourite retreat of J.J. Rousseau. Another easy
+excursion is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats)
+going up the Sane to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat
+going to St. Rambert, arather dirty little town on the right bank,
+1m. above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of
+Cuire. In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the
+bridge passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses,
+and the tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail
+is the best part of the excursion, not the island.
+
+For Lyons to Nmes, by rail 172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhne,
+see p.81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p.346; Paris to
+Lyons by Tarare, p.348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne,
+Montbrison, and Thiers, see p.349, and map p.27.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIENNE.]
+
+{338}{199}
++VIENNE+, pop. 27,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the
+capital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of
+important edifices, which indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in
+the days of Cicero were no strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding
+the Augustan age. The most interesting of these is the +Maison Carre+,
+an oblong temple of the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his
+wife Livia, 55 ft. high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way
+north from the cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace
+fronting the chain bridge is +St. Maurice+, abeautiful Gothic cathedral
+commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the roof of the nave 88
+ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the altar the
+skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died in 1723.
+At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other end of the
+chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up the
+Rhne, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a stair
+leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, where Pontius
+Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life (it
+is said) by throwing himself into the Rhne. About m. down the Rhne
+from the railway station, by the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide de
+l'Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It is 52 feet high, and
+rises from four arches resting on a square basement. Columns with
+cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, which cannot date earlier
+than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial town, with important
+woollen manufactories. 3m. S. by rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On the
+other side of the Rhne is Ampuis (p.81). 6m. farther S. by rail is Le
+Page-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village
+among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Chteau
+de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the
+year was to commence with the first of January.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. RAMBERT-D'ALBON.]
+
+{356}{180}
++ST. RAMBERT-D'ALBON+, junction with line to Grenoble 57m. E., by
+Rives 35m., and Voiron 42m. E.Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3m.
+W., on the opposite side of the Rhne, whence rail to Annonay (see page
+81, and map pages 26 and46).
+
+5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. _Inn:_
+Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhne. In the town is the
+restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaure
+are the pass of the Roche Taille, the ruins of a chteau of the
+Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page46).
+
+
+[Headnote: TAIN.]
+
+{368}{169}
++TAIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ H. Europe; Midi. Apleasant town on the
+Rhne, immediately opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of the
+hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety has
+a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxurious
+wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small.
+ Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence
+ and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13,000. _Inns:_ Europe; Midi.
+ Situated at the confluence of the Isre with the Savasse, crossed by a
+ bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Page, pop. 5000.
+
+
+[Headnote: VALENCE.]
+
+{384}{153}
++VALENCE+, pop. 24,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d'Or; France. The first
+the most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant
+schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhne. Omnibus to St. Pray, 2m.
+west. Coaches daily to Ardche. Valence is a pleasant town on an
+eminence rising from the Rhne, surrounded by broad boulevards on the
+site of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the Place
+Championnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by Franois. It
+commands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In the
+distance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In
+this Place is the statue "au General Championnet, sorti des rangs du
+peuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale." Died at Antibes 1800.
+
+To the left of the statue is the cathedral +St. Apollinaire+, built in
+1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were
+rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable
+appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves.
+Adelicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the
+round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by
+restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached
+Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of
+the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone.
+From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being
+occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust
+by Canova of Pope PiusVI., who died at Valence in 1799. His remains
+were removed to Rome.
+
+Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, asepulchral chapel
+(22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. On
+each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flat
+dome. Close to the "Place des Clercs" is the Maison des Ttes, built in
+1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work.
+The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into the
+court are in a much better state of preservation.
+ The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their
+ transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th
+ cent., and a picture gallery.
+
+[Headnote: VERNOUX.]
+
+ Rail to Grenoble, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40m. farther. Omnibus
+ daily to St. Pray (p. 82). Coach by St. Pray to Vernoux, 18m. W.
+ Vernoux, 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple
+ Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardche, situated in the midst
+ of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. Alarge proportion of
+ the inhabitants are Protestants.
+
+[Headnote: COACHES FROM VALENCE.]
+
+ Valence is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardche.
+ Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les
+ Ollires, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83).
+ The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La
+ Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape;
+ whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St.
+ Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollires. At Ollires, H. du Pont, they
+ meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur
+ one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and
+ Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. from
+ St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to
+ Pierreville, 2 hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3 hrs. (see also pages 93
+ and 94). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21 m. W., passing by
+ Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of
+ the day intercepts the rays of the sun.
+
+
+ARDCHE.
+
+(See Map, page 46).
+
+ Ardche should not be visited till June, and not later than September.
+ In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best
+ houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of
+ fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee,
+ bread often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is
+ potatoes sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a
+ pleasant soup of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are
+ required for the accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which
+ each hamlet has at least 2, while the larger villages and towns have
+ from 4 to 8, besides market-days. One of the prettiest sights in
+ Ardche is to see the people flocking from every direction along the
+ winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is being
+ held--many on foot driving small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or
+ cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, and
+ often an old hen; others with carts loaded with potatoes; others
+ travelling comfortably in their char--bancs; and others on horseback,
+ the women as well as the men being astride.
+
+ Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight
+ forbidding, but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of
+ things improves rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural
+ products are potatoes and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut,
+ walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, cultivated on terraces
+ supported by low stone walls of rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in
+ the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are of
+ a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured and light brown, with large bones
+ and white horns generally tipped with black.
+
+ At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and
+ grown-up women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above
+ 8s., and many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman
+ shears it off in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only a
+ little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank,
+ and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take
+ the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females
+ during their long winters is lace-making.
+
+ Among the remarkable sights in Ardche are the volcanic rocks, Mont
+ Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The
+ most central station of the diligences is Le Cheilard (see page
+ 83).
+
+ After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts
+ of the valley of the Rhne. At Mornas, 44m. S. from Valence and
+ 23 m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.
+
+
+[Headnote: LIVRON.]
+
+{395}{142}
++LIVRON+, pop. 4500, on the Drme, at some distance from the station.
+Restaurants at station. Inns in the town. On the other side of the
+Rhne, connected by railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1 m. W. (see p.82).
+ A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from
+ Livron, 68m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and
+ Marseilles. As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the
+ picturesque and well-cultivated valley of the Drme, where there is
+ a large Protestant population, nearly every village having its Temple
+ Protestant (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56).
+
+[Headnote: CREST.]
+
+ 11 miles E. from Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_
+ Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade,
+ by the side of the river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drme. The
+ omnibuses of the two hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly
+ on the Drme and partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the
+ foot, in the market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothque.
+ Straight up from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of
+ 116 steps, is the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde,
+ attached to the "Asile" for young children. Alittle higher up are the
+ hospital and church. Above the "Asile" is the entrance to the
+ enclosure, on which stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly
+ the remains of a castle which was added to it in the 13th cent. The
+ highest side is 170 ft. above the ground, and the other three 148 ft.,
+ ascended by 260 steps. Although so high, the view is limited by the
+ high side, into which visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives
+ below in the town, near the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the
+ first narrow street, left from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrire,
+ which continue to a stone lettered "limite de l'Octroi," whence ascend
+ by the path, right, to the Calvary, where there is a splendid view of
+ the valley of the Drme.
+
+ [Map: Ardeche: Its Vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes]
+
+[Headnote: SAOU.]
+
+ Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22m. S.W. (see Index); also
+ to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the copious source of
+ the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. 3miles from
+ Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Omblze. Coach also to Bourdeaux,
+ 16m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest (see map, p.56). Saou,
+ pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, is a poor dirty village on the Vebre.
+ _Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed up with and built into the surrounding
+ squalid houses are the remains of the abbey church and buildings of
+ Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are the wall and
+ square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are within the
+ court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th and 13th
+ cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of the
+ narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains,
+ from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata
+ piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic
+ forms. It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2m. wide. At the
+ commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream,
+ is the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the
+ other side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column.
+ Mt. Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called
+ the Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square
+ house, with two round turrets, called the Chteau d'Eurre. The best
+ parts of the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its
+ termination, where the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of
+ 5324 ft. above the sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At
+ the foot of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley
+ becomes so narrow that there is scarcely sufficient room for the
+ stream to pass through. 2 m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and,
+ a little beyond, the terminus of the valley.
+
+[Headnote: BOURDEAUX. DIEULEFIT.]
+
+ Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_
+ Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8m. N.
+ from Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town,
+ composed of squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping
+ up the hill, crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the
+ 8th cent. Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief
+ industries. Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8m. from Dieulefit the
+ courrier requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain
+ ridge, the Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.
+
+ Dieulefit, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the
+ Jabron at the foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17m. E. from Montelimart,
+ between which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are
+ silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a
+ coarse kitchen ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to
+ Montelimart are Pot-Lavat, 3-1/8 m.; La Begude, 7m.; under
+ Chteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a
+ considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56).
+
+
+[Headnote: DIE.]
+
+CREST TO ASPRES (Maps, pp. 46 and 56).
+
+ _Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die._--The road as far as the Pass
+ de Cabres follows the course of the Drme. The first town passed is
+ Saillans, 9 m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Lambert; Latour. In
+ a ravine of the Drme, 6 m. farther, is Pontaix, similarly situated.
+ 23m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die, pop. 4000, the
+ principal town in the valley of the Drme, which here receives the
+ Mrosse. _Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes--the coach stops between them;
+ glise Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank
+ during its first year; in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach
+ to Chtillon, 12 m. S.E. Die, on the Drme, is in a small plain
+ surrounded by mountains, of which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz,
+ 6648 ft. above the sea, flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top
+ is an undulating plateau, covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5
+ hrs. required for the ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the
+ rustic but not uncomfortable establishment of Sallires-les-Bains;
+ pension per day, with baths, 9 frs. The treatment is called "Sudations
+ rsineuses." The bath resembles a large oven, in which, after having
+ been heated with resinous fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish
+ bath. Open from 15th June to 15th September. The landlord is likewise
+ proprietor of a large part of Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his
+ supplies of fir-wood. On the top of a hill on the other side of the
+ Drme is a similar establishment, called the Martouret, pension 12
+ frs. The way to it strikes off the main road opposite the eminence, on
+ which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding a very good view of the
+ valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at one of the old
+ gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which makes the tour of the
+ ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry trees. At the other end
+ of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better gateway or Roman
+ triumphal arch, fronting the "Place" St. Marcel. The parish church has
+ been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.
+
+[Headnote: LUC. ASPRES.]
+
+ From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which
+ changes horses at +LUC+ en Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; glise
+ Protestante, 10 m. S. from Die, or 23 N.W. from Aspres. Apoor town,
+ among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drme, at the foot of high
+ mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost
+ closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from
+ the adjoining cliffs. 9 m. farther up the valley is the village of
+ Beaurires (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is now
+ commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres,
+ 15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2m. from
+ Beaurires, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall
+ 195 ft. high. 4 miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre
+ d'Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to
+ the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing
+ mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best
+ when 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is situated on the railway,
+ 126m. N. from Marseilles, and 77 m. S. from Grenoble. The coach
+ sets down passengers either at the station or at the inn H.Ferdinand.
+ The church has been rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the
+ tympanum a curious representation of the Trinity.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTLIMART.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{412}{125}
++MONTLIMART+, pop. 12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion
+and Jabron with the Rhne. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; in
+the town the Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil,
+on the W. side of the Rhne; for Grignan, p.49; Dieulefit, p.47;
+Bourdeaux, p.47; and Nyons, p.50; is near the hotels Poste and
+Princes. Up the Grande Rue is the principal church. On the opposite side
+of it is the Place d'Armes, with the Post Office, the Palais de Justice,
+and the Htel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in the
+Htel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 ft. wide, bearing in
+Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. At the end of the street,
+the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the "Place," is the Temple Protestant.
+Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, "Nougat," of which the best
+is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an eminence on the side of the
+town farthest from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour de
+Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni,
+became a Roman settlement under the name of Montilium, which was changed
+afterwards into Monteil-d'Adhemar by a powerful family, who came into
+possession of it in the days of Charlemagne. To the same family belonged
+also Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhne (see page 92, and map
+page56).
+
+Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, 2m. S.E.
+ Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by
+ Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzre, 4m. longer.
+ (See map, page 56.)
+
+ According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way
+ between Montelimart and Grignan, "there existed down to 1802 the first
+ white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by
+ Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one of the soldiers who
+ accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, in 1494." The
+ mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of France than
+ the olive (see map, page 56).
+
+[Headnote: GRIGNAN. MARQUISE DE SVIGN.]
+
+ +Grignan+, pop. 1900; _Inn:_ Svign, is built on the slopes of a hill
+ on the top of which, 100 ft. above the "Place," are the gardens and
+ ugly half-ruined and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Svign died.
+ The former Salle du Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery,
+ containing upwards of 300 paintings, among which the most interesting
+ are--the portraits of Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About
+ half-way up the hill is the church, commenced in the 12th cent. In
+ front of the altar a white marble slab, 2 ft. long by 1 wide, bears
+ the following inscription:-- "Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal,
+ Marquise de Svign. Dcd le 18 Avril 1696." Above the well, in the
+ "Place," is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About m.
+ from the town is what was one of her favourite walks to an overhanging
+ ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbire. To visit it,
+ descend from the inn, then take the first byeroad right, by a row of
+ poplars to a short stair. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20m.
+ S.E. by Valras and Taulignan. +Valras+ (pronounce the "s"), 8m.
+ from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ H. du Nord, is partly
+ surrounded with its old walls, garnished with square towers and
+ pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17m. N.W. from Nyons by
+ Valras and 11 m. by Rousset, _Inn:_ H. du Commerce, pop. 1200, is
+ also partly surrounded with its old walls.
+
+
+{420}{117}
++DONZERE.+ H. du Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four
+and a half miles south is +Pierrelatte+ station, and the terminus of the
+unfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan.
+ Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Chteaux, fare 6 sous, time
+ 45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an
+ interesting cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics
+ have been found in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+[Headnote: LA CROISIERE.]
+
+{432}{105}
++LA CROISIERE.+ Two small inns at station.
+ Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l'Europe, 3m.
+ W. on the other side of the Rhne by an avenue of poplars. Fare, 40 c.
+ The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in 1265 and
+ finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at the W.
+ end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for the
+ convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit,
+ see page 98).
+
+ Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29m. E. by the valleys
+ of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollne, pop. 6000. _Inn:_
+ Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4m. E. Manufactures of fire-bricks and
+ clay-tubing. 7 m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to
+ Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; _Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed
+ here. 15 m. E., St. Maurice, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. Near the
+ village of Vinsobres a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons
+ and Vaison. At Nyons the coach stops in the "Place" in front of the H.
+ du Louvre; whence the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart
+ (see map, page 56).
+
+[Headnote: NYONS.]
+
+ +NYONS+, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place;
+ Voyageurs, in a corner. Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons,
+ surrounded by high mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and
+ therefore eminently fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The
+ orange and palm do not grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond,
+ fig, peach, and pear trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine
+ truffles. Silk mills and the preserving of fruit and truffles supply
+ the principal industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on
+ an eminence partly surrounded with its old walls garnished with square
+ towers, 14th cent. The vieux chteau, or centre tower, has been
+ converted by the curate into a chapel surmounted with an image of the
+ "immaculately conceived." The part of the town below is called Les
+ Halles, whose dirty streets are bordered with thick heavy arches. The
+ rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The
+ bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch and considerably higher in the
+ centre than at the ends.
+
+[Headnote: THE PONTIAS BREEZE.]
+
+ Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divs, on which is
+ the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that
+ the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is
+ very cold, and blows from 5 P.M. to 9 A.M. In summer it is pleasant,
+ and blows from 9 P.M. to 7 A.M. The peculiarity is, that the degree of
+ force is constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave,
+ commence from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the
+ Rue Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last
+ tower a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a
+ small chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a
+ pavilion. Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the
+ part of the ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the
+ back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by
+ this latter way retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path
+ for 116 yards; while those who have come by the other go 116 yards
+ beyond the chapel. Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be
+ observed the thin ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is
+ the entrance to the Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of
+ insignificant dimension. Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are
+ several crevices. The view of the valley of the Aigues from this hill
+ is very beautiful. The ascent takes 35 minutes.
+
+
+NYONS TO SERRES.
+
+ +Nyons to Serres+ (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east by the valleys of
+ the Aigues and Blme, bounded on both sides by high mountains. Time,
+ 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7 frs. Most of the towns passed are at a
+ considerable height above the road, and sometimes on account of the
+ steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first village
+ passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3m. from Nyons, and 3m.
+ from the gorge "Des 30 Pas," one of the excursions from Nyons.
+ A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of the river,
+ here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill on the
+ S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the
+ mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road
+ crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St.
+ May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on
+ the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a
+ lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river
+ to the village of Rmusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its
+ junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of
+ the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22m. from
+ Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3 m. farther or 15m. from
+ Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret,
+ whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the Blme,
+ passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_
+ Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112 m. N. from Marseilles and 77
+ S. from Grenoble (see p. 340).
+
+
+[Headnote: ORANGE.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{444}{93}
++ORANGE+, pop. 10,300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the
+Arausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to
+the hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour
+of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A.D. 21. It stands
+E. and W., is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27 deep,
+and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft.
+and each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented
+with six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved
+Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the
+shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows,
+etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat.
+
+At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre at
+the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ of
+Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in style the churches of
+the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the great
+type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the buttresses,
+and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. Aplain and ugly
+square tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place de
+l'Htel de Ville, with a statue to "RaimbaudII., Comte d'Orange,
+vainqueur Antioche et Jrusalem en MXCIX." In the promenade of the
+town, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin,
+awriter on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in
+1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and
+imposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in
+a semicircular form, has a faade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The
+wall is 13 ft. thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular
+wall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500
+spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of a
+quantity of rubbish.
+
+[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN.]
+
+In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably under
+RaimbaudI., whose successor, RaimbaudII., has just been noticed. On
+the death of Philibert of Chlons, last of the third line of princes,
+the inheritance fell to his sister's son Count Ren (Renatus) of
+Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor his
+cousin WilliamI., stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The title
+"Prince of Orange" was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice,
+Frederick-Henry, WilliamI., WilliamII., and WilliamIII. After the
+Revolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party were
+designated Orangemen, from the title of their leader, WilliamIII.,
+Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672,
+but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of WilliamIII. there
+were two claimants--John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by
+William's will, and FrederickI, King of Prussia, who claimed to be
+nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will of
+Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the principality a
+forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to the Prince of
+Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should have
+the _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty of
+Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the title and coat of arms to the
+King of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz von
+Oranien). John William Friso, however, also took the title, and his
+successors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all been
+designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast numbers of silkworms are
+reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valras 22m. E., p.49, and to Vaison
+17m. N.E. (Map p.56.)
+
+[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN.]
+
+ +Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5m. N. from Malaucene,
+ 17m. N. from Carpentras, 11 m. S. from Nyons, 13m. W. from Le
+ Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left
+ side of the Ouvze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by
+ a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the left side a
+ more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid
+ streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the
+ ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It
+ is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square
+ tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with
+ round and early pointed arches and square tower at S.E. end. The view
+ from the terrace is beautiful.
+
+ The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and
+ very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the
+ town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute
+ angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of
+ the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a
+ little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or "les arnes" as
+ they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as
+ the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches,
+ there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone,
+ excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and
+ an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east
+ end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to
+ the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an
+ equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the
+ apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars
+ has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on
+ each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin
+ died in 578.
+
+ Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves
+ of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of
+ medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are
+ pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.
+ The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed
+ arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered
+ pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof,
+ also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th
+ cent.; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of
+ blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel,
+ at the N.E. side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a
+ very beautiful cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the
+ cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded
+ by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3 ft. high. At
+ the corners is either a massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5
+ colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself
+ are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a
+ skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of
+ the "Immacule" on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman
+ column. (Map p. 56.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SORGUES.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{455}{82}
++SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction
+with line to Carpentras, 10m. eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10,500, on
+an eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_
+Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large "Place" opposite, the
+Htel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Htel-Dieu are a
+portrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Ranc, and a handsome staircase. In the
+centre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie
+d'Inguimbert. From this "Place," up the narrow street, the first public
+building is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.
+ The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side
+ of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of
+ Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a
+ pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.
+ Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a
+ "Salutation" by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the
+ pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her
+ milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the
+ cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them
+ are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the
+ right hand of J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a "Coronation" of
+ Mary painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another
+ "Coronation" by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and
+ Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and
+ a crucifix in the "salle des assises." Within the court, right hand,
+ is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft.
+ high (but originally higher), 25 ft. wide, 14 ft deep, and 10 ft.
+ span. On the N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold
+ relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side
+ stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the
+ cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the
+ south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of
+ preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From
+ the top hangs the dress of a warrior.
+
+[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM.]
+
+ The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte
+ d'Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only
+ three sides exist. It was built by InnocentVI., who also surrounded
+ the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From
+ the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal
+ aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance,
+ between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from
+ N.W. to S.E., with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to
+ Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The
+ canal, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends
+ from the Durance to the Ouvze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost
+ 90,000. In the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory
+ of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the
+ library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of
+ manuscripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare
+ incunables, and above 4000 vols., for which there is not sufficient
+ accommodation. In the "Muse" are a few good pictures, and Roman
+ statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small
+ Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an
+ Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B.C., 19 in. long by
+ 13 wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow
+ borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with
+ uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on
+ which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second
+ compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the
+ jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the
+ four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is
+ an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are
+ injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot
+ Mailly in 1646.
+
+[Headnote: TRUFFLES.]
+
+ Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured,
+ or white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has
+ the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of
+ Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1foot below
+ the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the
+ common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from
+ November to the end of March, after which those which remain become
+ soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind
+ is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In
+ size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the
+ largest may weigh lb., although few are of that size. They are
+ sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow
+ being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its
+ duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its
+ powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When
+ just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between
+ its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead
+ two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue
+ the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.
+
+[Headnote: ORTOLANS.]
+
+ The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras,
+ migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets
+ laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into
+ dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month's time they
+ become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and
+ sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The
+ singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling
+ out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping
+ them in a dark apartment till August.
+
+ Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and "berlingots,"
+ a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike
+ barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is
+ Eysseric.
+
+ Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from
+ the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices
+ moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the
+ vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.
+
+ Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28 m. N., by Vacqueyras 6m.,
+ and Vaison 17m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by Malaucene 10m. N.E., and
+ Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23m. N.E.,
+ passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19m. N.W. by
+ Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7m. N. on the Aigues. Coach
+ to Sault 28 m. E.
+
+ Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4m. S.E. Coach daily to
+ L'Ile 10 m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.
+ Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28m. S.E., by Venasque
+ 7 m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.)
+
+[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX.]
+
+ Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8 m. N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300.
+ _Inn:_ Htel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274
+ ft., by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about
+ 2m. from the village and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope.
+ Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary.
+ Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of
+ the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending
+ to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. Alittle
+ distance along it, at a well with a cistern, anarrow road strikes off
+ to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The
+ mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise
+ from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P.M., and await the
+ appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on
+ the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range,
+ an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every
+ form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and
+ fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, "terre de
+ Bedouin," is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, avillage
+ 2 m. N.E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of
+ sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up
+ at different parts of the department.
+
+ [Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance]
+
+[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE.]
+
+ Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of
+ +St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old chteau.
+ Rooms from 1 fr. to 3 frs. Servants' rooms, 1fr. Meat, breakfast and
+ dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, fr. Meat,
+ breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3frs. Service, fr.
+ First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study
+ gratis; but in the guests' room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the
+ style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is
+ impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_trbenthin_). It has a
+ beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is
+ 2 m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p.56).
+
+ Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23m. N.E.,
+ by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N.W.
+ extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le Barroux on
+ a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of
+ Mont Ventoux, 5m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is
+ +Malaucene+, 1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Htel de Cours,
+ in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the
+ calvary on an eminence in the town. At about m. from the inn is the
+ spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous
+ cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent.
+ The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in
+ motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may
+ visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from
+ Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more
+ picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of
+ the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein,
+ 4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft.
+
+ The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the
+ Ouvze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with,
+ in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.
+ Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the
+ bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien.
+ No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good
+ the length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St.
+ Euphemie 7m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11m. E., Lacombe
+ 13m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the road descends to the
+ railway by the valley of the Cans.
+
+[Headnote: LE BUIS.]
+
+ +LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a
+ hollow on the Ouvze surrounded by mountains covered with olive,
+ mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata
+ cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form,
+ either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness
+ and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to
+ the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the
+ winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next
+ bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right:
+ for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the
+ left, just before reaching the bridge.
+
+
+ [Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.
+
+ +1.+ Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the
+ Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of
+ Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of
+ the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads
+ down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bnzet. Below the
+ promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop's palace, now a
+ seminary. Below the Pope's Palace is +B+, the Place de l'Hotel de
+ Ville, with the H. de Ville and theatre. The street +C C+,
+ extending southward to the principal station, is called the R. de
+ la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind,
+ +3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little
+ farther S.W. is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Muse Calvet,
+ and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Muse Requien,
+ amuseum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph's
+ College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers,
+ where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of
+ the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+,
+ beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road
+ to the cemetery. Ashort way E. from the Place de l'Hotel de Ville
+ is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the
+ station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the
+ Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the
+ Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel
+ Bnzet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacr-Coeur. 17. Prison.
+ 18. Mont-de-Pit. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture.
+ 22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Bnzet Bridge. A, Place du Palais.
+ B, Place de l'Htel de Ville. C, Rue de la Rpublique. D, Rue
+ Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie.
+ J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carrterie. M, Porte du
+ Rhne. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte
+ L'Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de
+ l'Oulle.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{461}{76}
++AVIGNON+, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls,
+garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the
+Rhne, 2m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20m. N.E. from
++Nmes+ by the railway passing the Pont d'Avignon and Remoulins.
+_Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the
+centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. Temple
+Protestant in the R.Dore, near the Prfecture. Cabstands at station
+and in the Place de l'Htel de Ville, 2frs. per hour. From the station,
+abeautiful avenue, the Cours de la Rpublique, leads up to the Place de
+l'Htel de Ville, with statue "au brave Crillon," the friend of Henri
+IV., "Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de
+l'infanterie franaise," died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the
+road leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des
+Domes, and the promenade, *"au Rochers des Doms;" which, with the
+ramparts, compose the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the
+palace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1fr. Opposite
+gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The
+churches are closed between 12 and 2. The Muses are open to the public
+on Sundays between 12 and4.
+
+[Headnote: AVIGNON PALACE.]
+
+The present +Palace+, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, and finished
+by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, consisting of plain
+walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by long ungainly
+buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, are the arms
+of ClementVI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, the balcony from
+which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is the Cour
+d'Honneur, avast quadrangular space between flat walls, pierced by from
+3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of the same size.
+From the court ascend the Escalier d'Honneur, agroined staircase, of
+which the steps were formerly of marble, to the Salle Consistoriale
+d'Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before this hall was divided
+into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65 wide, and 170 long. From it we enter
+the Salle d'Armes, with mural paintings by Simone Memmi of Sienna.
+Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the left the small
+window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby tunnelled in the
+wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie de Conclave, the
+Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then enter the Tour St.
+Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, or the chapel of the
++Inquisition+, with mural paintings. In the story immediately below is
+the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through a
+large hall, we enter an octagonal room, gradually narrowing towards the
+centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, called the Tour Strapade. Some
+say this was the torture room; but it is evidently more suited for a
+kitchen, which in all probability it was. Adjoining is the Glacire,
+into whose underground cellars, now built up, the democrats of 1791
+flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had murdered. From this we
+enter again the Place d'Honneur by the Tour Trouillas, in which Rienzi
+was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain fixed to the roof of his
+cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 to 1234, and till 1793,
+the half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical edifices, which
+tolled daily 300 bells, and had among them a daily succession of
+religious processions.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHER DES DOMS. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, the
++Rocher des Doms+; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a
+public garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who
+introduced, in 1766, the culture of the "garance," the _Rubia
+tinctoria_, now superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a
+stair leads down to the Rhne near the Bridge Bnzet (see page 63). In
+the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and on the other side
+are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above it
+the Fort St. Andr. On the promenade is the Cathedral
++Notre-Dame-des-Doms+, 194 feet above the Rhne, approached by a stair
+called the Pater, because originally it had as many steps as there are
+words in the Lord's Prayer. This church has undergone many changes, and
+belongs to various periods. The portal and lower part of the tower are
+of the 10th cent., and are due to Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries
+later. The apse was added in 1671. The most remarkable part of the
+structure is the cupola, terminating in an octagonal lantern, and
+supported on pendentive arches. It bears traces of frescoes painted in
+1672. In the sanctuary is the marble throne used by the Popes, in the
+sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII., and in one of the side
+chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (right hand) is a
+Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The sacristan is generally in the
+small room next the main entrance. Fee, fr. for showing the church and
+the tomb.
+
+Now return to the Place de l'Htel de Ville. At the foot or south end a
+tram-car leaves every to the Pont d'Avignon station on the other side
+of the Rhne, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the eastern end of
+the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts every hour from
+the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops at the east end
+of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.
+
+[Headnote: ST. AGRICOL. MUSE CALVET.]
+
+In the "Place" the principal edifice is the +Htel de Ville+, built in
+1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th cent, of which all that
+remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard and his wife, from the
+two figures which strike the hours. Next the Htel de Ville is the
+theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. Agricol+, 1340, the
+patron saint of Avignon. To the right on entering is the tomb of the
+painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April 1725, aged 86, and third chapel on
+same side is a virgin and child in wood by Coysevox. To the left of the
+entrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the foot of
+the short street St. Agricol, in the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built
+in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue Calade is the +Muse Calvet+, containing a
+valuable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from
+12 to 4, and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday.
+Against the wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this
+museum, Claud Franois Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On
+the right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to
+Laura de Sade, dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the
+Cordeliers (see p.62). On the other side is the tomb of the military
+strategist Folard, anative of Avignon. In the outer court, and in the
+rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are Roman altars, monuments,
+milestones, torses, amphor, and 170 Latin inscriptions, found in the
+neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p.53). Among the
+sculptures in relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses
+with their hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent.,
+from Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the
+Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches
+and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope UrbainV.,
+of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal Palice. Within
+railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, afaun by Brian, and a bather by
+Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is a valuable
+collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and medals,
+including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes during
+their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition while
+here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings,
+including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures
+have the artists' names affixed. Those in the great hall are by Albano,
+Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A.Carracci, Caravaggio,
+Chlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati,
+F.Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and
+N.Mignard, J. and P.Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa,
+Teuiers jun., Veronese, Vige-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room
+are the paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few
+by Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen.
+In the centre of an inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is
+the famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting
+the arms, achef-d'oeuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said
+that Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art.
+Continuing down the R.Calade to the other side of the R.Petrarque or
+de la Rpublique, we have on the right the Museum of Natural History in
+the church St. Martial, 15th cent. [Headnote: REQUIEN.] The greater part
+of the specimens were bequeathed by M.Requien, d. 1851, and of them the
+most interesting are those connected with the neighbourhood, such as the
+flamingo and beaver of the Rhne, and the fossils from Aix. In the
+eastern continuation of the R.Calade, at No. 62 R. des Lices, is the
+Collge +Saint Joseph+, containing within its grounds all that remains
+(the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of the church of the
+Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired, and
+is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely admitted. It is to the left
+of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no vestiges, having been
+destroyed along with the church by an infuriated mob in 1791. On the E.
+side of the R.Petrarque, by the narrow R.Prvot, is the church of +St.
+Dedier+, 1355, containing, in first chapel right from entrance, arelief
+in marble representing Christ bearing his cross, executed by Francesco
+in 1481 at the request of King Ren. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft.
+above the floor, is a stone pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave
+of St. Bnzet is under a plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front
+of the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Htel Crillon, 17th cent.; and
+to the east of the Place de l'Htel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre
+(9in plan), 1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The
+pictures about the high altar are by N.Mignard, J. and P.Parrocel, and
+Simon de Chlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l'Htel de Ville,
+the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and
+Carrterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town
++hospital+ (7in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built in the
+last century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354.
+Here, outside the town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the
+left, is the Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of
+the entrance. [Headnote: J.S. MILL.] In a corner at the end of a short
+avenue of pine trees is the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill,
+b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet
+Mill, his beloved wife, who died at Avignon in the Htel de l'Europe,
+Nov. 3, 1858. Atouching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the
+whole surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, awalk may be
+taken between the ramparts and the Rhne down to the bridge built in
+1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint,
+and architect, +Bnzet+, who before had constructed one over the
+Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 ft. long
+and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain.
+ On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics
+ of St. Bnzet were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON.]
+
++Avignon to Villeneuve.+
+
+Every , a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d'Avignon station, while
+every hour an omnibus crosses for +Villeneuve-les-Avignon+, pop. 3100,
+2m. from the "Place," or 1m. from the Pont station. Near the parish
+church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the chapel to the
+left, the mausoleum of InnocentVI., under a lofty
+elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs
+is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture
+belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two
+subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different
+artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads,
+even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most
+charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as
+a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the
+Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV.,
+where she was called La Belle Provenale. After her husband's death she
+married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where
+her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law,
+the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she
+steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her
+drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on
+the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times
+with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to
+be broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by
+Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno.
+Fee, 1fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in the
+14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing extraordinary.
+Near it are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bndiction, and on an
+eminence Fort Andr, now inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for
+Avignon starts every hour at the hour, from the apsidal end of the
+parish church of Villeneuve.
+
+Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the Mistral,
+yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, "Avenio
+ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa," the odours from the
+drains in some of the streets being very offensive.
+
+Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was
+forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General
+Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery,
+the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in
+this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade,
+opposite the Muse Calvet, where he wrote "Le Souper de Beaucaire."
+
+
+[Headnote: AVIGNON TO NMES. L'ISLE.]
+
++Avignon to Nmes.+
+
+Avignon is 1 hour or 15 miles N.E. from Nmes by rail, starting from
+the Pont-d'Avignon station on the west side of the Rhne. Those wishing
+to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets for the
+Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with luggage,
+it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, without loss
+of time on arriving, take other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving the
+luggage behind. Time will generally be saved by returning from the Pont
+to Remoulins on foot, about 3m. by the road, but 5m. by the rail. See
+Map, p.56. For Nmes see p.101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p.104.
+Consult the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon" before starting.
+
+
+[Headnote: L'ISLE. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE.]
+
++Avignon to Vaucluse by L'Isle.+
+
+From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18m. eastward, by the village
+of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L'Isle, pop. 7000, avillage on the
+Sorgues, with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome
+reredos over high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d'Argent
+dates from the 11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle
+hotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take
+them to Vaucluse and back for 4frs. each. From the village of Vaucluse,
+pop. 600, take for the fountain the road on the right bank of stream,
+but for the house and garden of Petrarch take the left side, crossing
+the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff near the cloth mill, is a
+small house on the site of Petrarch's, of which it is a copy. Before it,
+is still a piece of what was Petrarch's garden. On the other side of the
+Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a little hotel at Vaucluse, the
+Htel Petrarch et Laure. Under a stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the
+source of the river Sorgue, the placid +Fontaine de Vaucluse+, about 30
+yards in diameter-- "amirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still,
+that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and
+water ends." During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to
+contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into
+the bed below. The poet's modest house stood at the foot of the rock
+crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal
+Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description
+of the site:-- "On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; on
+another by a rugged mountain, abarrier against the noon-day heats, and
+which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its friendly shade;
+but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance a
+surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes,
+walnuts, almonds--these are my delights. My table is also graced with
+the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my greatest pleasures
+to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw them myself. All
+about me is changed. Ionce used to dress myself with care; now you
+would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house resembles that of
+Fabius or Cato. Ihave but a valet and a dog. The house of my servant
+adjoins my own. Icall him when I want him, and when I have no more need
+of him he returns home."
+
+[Headnote: PETRARCH.]
+
+On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of Avignon
+Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a
+romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful
+vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France,
+Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned
+to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.
+
+Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to 18
+frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.
+
+20 m. from Avignon by rail is Cavaillon (p.66), whence a branch line
+extends 20m. E. to Apt, another line 27m. S.E. to Pertuis on the
+Marseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22m. S. to +Miramas+
+(p.76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p.66.)
+
+
+[Headnote: APT.]
+
+AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.
+
+ 40 m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is +Apt+, pop. 7000, on
+ the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered hollow surrounded by mountains and
+ calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The *Louvre; des Alpes. The principal
+ industries are agriculture, pottery, and the making of preserved
+ fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as that on which the
+ sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to soak from 2 to 8 months in
+ a strong solution of white sugar, in uncovered "terrines," like small
+ basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such as oranges, are pricked before
+ being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is near the station,
+ to the left on descending the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in
+ thick beds close to the establishment, and resembles that of
+ Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting fire, and is
+ therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen pottery. M.
+ Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea services, of which
+ the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the establishment of L. A.
+ Esbrard, who confines himself almost exclusively to kitchen
+ pottery.
+
+ The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on
+ entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower.
+ Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of
+ the mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which
+ many are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque
+ (_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Creste, 5m. E., and Reillanne,
+ on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on the rail between
+ Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66.)
+
+ +Cavaillon to Miramas+, 22 m. S. (see map, p.66), across a fertile
+ plain, with vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees.
+ +Cavaillon+ (pop. 8000). _Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station.
+ Cavaillon is a pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on
+ the Durance at the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an
+ ancient triumphal arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th
+ cents., with a cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the
+ neighbourhood. 4 m. S. from Cavaillon is +Orgon+ (pop. 3000. _Inns:_
+ Paris; Poste), on the Durance. 11 m. farther S. is +Salon+ (pop. 7100.
+ _Inns:_ Poste; Croix de Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town,
+ dealing largely in first-class olive oil, has still remnants of its
+ old ramparts: a church, St. Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St.
+ Laurent, of the 14th, and a castle of the same date. In the town is a
+ fountain to the memory of Adam de Craponne, the engineer of the canal.
+ (For Miramas, see p. 75.)
+
+ [Map: The Mouths of the Rhone]
+
+
+[Headnote: TARASCON. MARTHA'S TOMB.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{474}{63}
++TARASCON+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs,
+the Luxembourg; in the town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to
+Nmes, 17m. W., and 31m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a
+large hospital for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc
+Molire. Tarascon is an unimportant town on the Rhne, opposite
+Beaucaire, and connected with it by a chain bridge 1450 feet long. In
+the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is an ancient crypt,
+just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of Lazarus,
+whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the peaceful-looking
+marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of the place says she
+had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of the inhabitants, to
+kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a bull's, and having
+succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, after her death
+buried her in this place. Afew steps from the church, by the side of
+the river, rises the massive strong square castle, begun in 1400 and
+finished by the Roi Ren, now used as a prison. On the opposite side of
+the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are the more picturesque ruins of the
+castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining garden forms one of the many
+promenades of the people of Beaucaire. Beaucaire is a poor town with
+poor houses. The formerly famous fair, commencing on July 1, has become
+now of little importance. It is held in the broad avenue between the
+castle and the Rhne.
+
+[Headnote: ST. REMY. LES BAUX.]
+
+9 m. east from Tarascon by rail is +St. Remy+, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Htel
+du Cheval Blanc, acomfortable house, where carriages can be hired for
+Les Baux, 6m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and Mont-Majour,
+19m. distant, 24 frs. Amile from the Htel Cheval Blanc, by the high
+road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the commercial stations of the
+Phoenician traders from Marseilles, before it fell into the possession
+of the Romans, who have left here two remarkable monuments, of which
+the more perfect consists of an open square tower standing on a massive
+pedestal, and surmounted by a peristyle of ten columns surrounding two
+statues representing the parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of
+the Julii, by whom it was erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the
+statues look to the north. The sculpture on the north side of the
+pedestal represents a cavalry fight; the south, "sacrificing;" the west,
+acombat between infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated,
+"Victory crowning a wounded soldier." Alongside stands a triumphal arch,
+of which the most perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the
+soffit.
+
+6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is +Les Baux+, the ancient Castrum de Baucis,
+pop. 100. _Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in
+485, occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature
+into bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by
+ancient art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art
+and nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie
+cheek-by-jowl with masses of the rough-hewn rock; fallen cavern vaults
+are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped spandrel and clustered column
+shaft; the doors and windows of old pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and
+wild fig tapestry; while winding staircases start midway upon the cliff
+and lead to vacancy. High overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang
+chambers--lady's bower or poet's singing room--now inaccessible, the
+haunt of hawks and swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb-- "cette ville
+en monolithe," as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped
+out of one mountain block--live a few poor people, foddering their
+wretched goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their
+mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux
+road to Fontvieille, 7m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles (see
+map, page66).
+
+
+[Headnote: ARLES.]
+
+{483}{54}
++ARLES+, pop. 26,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in the
+Place du Forum. Arles is situated on the Rhne, near the Camargue, in a
+marshy place, as its original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words,
+"Ar lach," damp place, indicates. It is said to have been founded 900
+years before Marseilles, 700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the
+birth of Christ. The ramparts and walls rising from the public gardens
+and the Boulevard des Aliscamps are chiefly the work of the Emperor
+Constantine, who came to Arles with his family and mother, Saint Helena.
+He built by the side of the Rhne a superb palace, called afterwards
+"de la Trouille," because opposite a ferry-boat, which was pulled or
+dragged from one side of the river to the other. Of this palace little
+more remains than the attached tower La Trouille, constructed of
+alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th August 312 his wife
+Faustina presented him with a son, ConstantineII., who succeeded his
+father in May 357. He commenced the Forum, but was shortly after killed
+in battle defending himself against his brother Constance, who usurped
+the throne and finished the Forum. All that remains of this formerly
+splendid edifice are the two Corinthian columns, with part of the
+pediment encrusted into the wall of the Htel du Nord. It occupied the
+site of the Place du Forum, called also the Place des Hommes, because
+labourers and men-servants used to be hired in this "Place."
+
+In the Place de la Rpublique is the Htel de Ville, built in 1675 on
+the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The
+spacious vaults under the Htel du Nord formed probably a part of these
+baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an
+ossuary.
+
+ [Map: Arles]
+
+Almost adjoining the Htel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, now the
+Archological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi,
+urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, those of the
+Pagans having the letters D.M., _Diis manibus_. Also some of the long
+lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, "C. Canthius Porthinus fac.,"
+which helped to bring water from the fountain at the foot of the hill on
+which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is a torse of Mithras
+of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in 1598 on the site
+of the Roman Circus. Aserpent is coiled round the body, and between the
+coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite corner is an altar in
+Carrara marble to the good goddess "Bonae-Deae," found under the church
+La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak leaves and acorns, and 7
+inches distant from each other two human ears. Near it is a good head of
+Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About the centre of the room is
+a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine skin under his arm.
+
+In the centre of the "Place" is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, hewn
+by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in the
+Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges remain.
+
+[Headnote: ST. TROPHIME.]
+
+Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the
+17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221,
+consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are
+statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum
+is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists.
+In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the
+cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the
+16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.
+
+Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, we
+arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, and
+finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin,
+originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian
+columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the
+proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators,
+with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most
+valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to
+the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to strangers.
+
+[Headnote: AMPHITHEATRE.]
+
+A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing +Amphitheatre+ or
+Les Arnes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius Nero,
+B.C. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. long and 132 wide, surrounded by a
+double wall 60 ft. high, each with two stages of arches, and in each
+stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers of stone seats,
+capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps leading up to
+them were 1 ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were besides above
+150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the theatre, and 100
+dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by the Saracens in the
+8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, when a multitude of
+spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the galleries. Asplendid
+view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of the commencement of the delta
+of the Rhne, is had from the western tower. The entrance into the
+amphitheatre is by the north gate. The doorkeeper lives in a house a
+little to the left of the gate. This grand ruin should, if possible, be
+visited by moonlight; yet during the day the beautiful masonry is more
+easily examined. It is the great sight in Arles, and it is better to
+omit all the others than to do this one hurriedly.
+
+The Camargue or Delta of the Rhne, commencing at the outskirts of
+Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the
+Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhne, and on the east
+by the Grand Rhne. It contains small villages and large farms, with
+extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It
+is best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St.
+Louis on the mouth of the great Rhne. (See p.72, and map, p.66.)
+
+[Headnote: ELYSEI CAMPI. TROPHIMUS.]
+
+S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on the
+site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down the
+Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. The
+first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the
+monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side
+by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without
+lids. This, the Elysei Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested
+of all its valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As
+J.C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of the
+cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be
+especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury
+their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with
+their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhne,
+of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of
+the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel
+founded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul's converts, who was
+sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end to human
+sacrifices. Among the first things he is said to have done was to
+consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus from a heathen into a
+Christian burial-place, and add to it a little chapel. An old Arles
+writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus dedicated this chapel
+to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 years in this diocese he
+died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried in the little chapel he
+himself had built. Among the successors of Trophimus were Ambrose in
+160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in 220, who died 10 years
+afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years afterwards; Marcien in
+252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. Cyprien in 253. Saint
+Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the church of St. Honorat
+beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church dates only from the
+12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, excepting the
+foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is semicircular, with 4
+pilasters and a small window in the centre to give light to the
+officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry in two arcaded
+stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper calls a small
+chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel of Trophimus.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+The Picture Gallery, or the Muse Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure,
+near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the
+town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. On
+picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the
+picture gallery is the school of design.
+
+Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E., passing Mont-Majour 4m.
+E.Fontvieille is 7m. S.W. from Les Baux by a good road. Junction at
+Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, 36m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58m.
+S.W.; Cette is 17m. farther. (See map, p.66.)
+
+[Headnote: MONT-MAJOUR.]
+
+4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and abbey
+of Mont-Majour, all in a good state of preservation, excepting the
+domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The concierge lives in a house
+near the station. Fee, 1fr. He generally shows first the church, 11th
+cent., and the spacious crypt below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are
+the cloisters, 11th cent., of the same kind as those of St. Trophime,
+but more interesting and more perfect, and containing the tombs of some
+of the counts of Anjou. Next is the beautiful square dungeon tower,
+nearly as perfect as when erected in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is
+ascended by 137 steps, and commands a wide prospect. From this, astair
+leads down the face of the hill to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus,
+principally hewn in the soft limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base
+of the hill is St. Croix, dedicated in 1019, consisting of four
+semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting from a square
+tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille (Htel du
+Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous sandstone.
+
+[Headnote: PORT SAINT LOUIS.]
+
+ +Arles to Port Saint Louis+, at the mouth of the Great Rhne, 25m. S.
+ by steamer on the Great Rhne. Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2frs. Railway
+ unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part
+ of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by
+ irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines.
+ Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass
+ which cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that
+ not a village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p.70.)
+
+ +Port Saint Louis+ (Htel Saint Louis), 6m. W. from Port Bouc,
+ consists of a straggling village between the Rhne and the basin of
+ the canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhne.
+ This canal is 2 m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand
+ the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed
+ to every wind, it is necessary to ascend the "tour Saint Louis,"
+ whence the plain, intersected by the Rhne and numerous canals,
+ appears literally like a map. The only villages seen in the vast
+ expanse are Fos, on a hill, and near it the Port Bouc.
+
+ Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient
+ place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from
+ Marseilles.
+
+ 23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great
+ Etang Valcars, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or
+ simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by
+ fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good
+ sculpture.
+
+ For +Arles to Port Bouc+, 29 m. S., see p.76. The steamer sails from
+ the S.W. corner of Arles (see map, page 66).
+
+[Headnote: ST. GILLES. LUNEL.]
+
+ 11 m. W. by rail from Arles is +St. Gilles+, pop. 7000. Htel du
+ Cheval-Blanc. A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes,
+ near the Petit Rhne. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered
+ a good specimen of Byzantine architecture. The faade consists of a
+ bald wall with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are
+ three semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on
+ two single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but
+ the pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque
+ animals in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches
+ of the portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints,
+ separated from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a
+ nave and two aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N.
+ aisle a stair of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with
+ semicircular arches on short massive piers. From the centre 7 more
+ steps descend to the tomb of St. Gilles. All the characteristics of
+ this church are equally well represented in St. Trophime of Arles.
+
+ 16 m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is +Lunel+, pop. 7300.
+ _Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. Atown of narrow streets,
+ with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The church is
+ constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and Perpignan.
+ On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The first-class
+ vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17 to 18, are all
+ on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.
+
+[Headnote: AIGUES-MORTES.]
+
+ 8 m. S. by rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of
+ +AIGUES-MORTES+, "stagnant waters," pop. 4300, 4m. from the
+ Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and connected with it by a
+ navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is of great historical
+ interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old embrasured wall in
+ France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 yds. long by 149
+ yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 towers. On the
+ western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, 96 ft. high
+ and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed circular
+ chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their
+ Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties
+ that the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their
+ behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for
+ them, but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the
+ highly interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhne,
+ whence the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has
+ not, receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis--we think
+ not. Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint
+ Louis, who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it
+ the most suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for
+ Palestine. On 25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church
+ Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen
+ Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to
+ Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place;
+ and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition,
+ the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4m. S.
+ from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the bathing
+ station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see map, page
+ 66).
+
+ 49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page 105.)
+
+
+ 96 m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31m. S.W. from Nmes,
+ and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is
+
+[Headnote: MONTPELLIER.]
+
+ +MONTPELLIER+, on the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above
+ the sea and 7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. _Hotels:_ H.Nevet, the best
+ and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the same
+ side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings
+ containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and
+ the Picture Gallery or Muse Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays.
+ Adjoining is the Lyce.
+
+ In the Place de la Comdie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, the
+ next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H.Cheval Blanc, frequented by
+ commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la Gare. In the fine
+ broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Place
+ de la Comdie, is the H. Maguelone, second class. Their omnibuses
+ await passengers.
+
+ Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office
+ in the Boulevard de la Comdie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume.
+ From the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de
+ la Comdie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below
+ the prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, p.66.)
+
+[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
+
+ The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from
+ the station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the
+ citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a
+ line of boulevards, passing up by the "Hpital Gnral" to the Botanic
+ Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, founded in
+ the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the direction of the
+ famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 acres, divided
+ into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., in a hollow,
+ surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these two
+ divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once
+ famous +cole de mdecine+, said to have been founded by Arab
+ physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now
+ occupies the old bishops' palace, built in the 14th cent., with
+ additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez,
+ 1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts
+ of the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the
+ college and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also
+ valuable anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with
+ 55,000 vols. Adjoining is the +Cathedral+ of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th
+ cents., but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White
+ marble statue of Mary and child by Canova.
+
+ Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place
+ du Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold
+ weather invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower
+ terrace of this "Place," the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western
+ end of the Peyrou is the Chteau d'Eau, ahexagonal Corinthian
+ building, which receives and distributes through the town the water
+ brought from the fontaine de St. Clement, 5m. from Montpellier. The
+ aqueduct, which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite
+ hill, consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long.
+ The gate at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the
+ victories of Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with
+ statues of Cambacrs and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked
+ streets, are the Mairie and the markets.
+
+[Headnote: MUSE FABRE.]
+
+ A short way north from the Htel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also
+ on the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the +Muse
+ Fabre+, the Bibliothque publique with 65,000 vols., and the
+ "Collection de la Socit archologique." The Muse Fabre, open on
+ Sundays and Mondays and feast days, contains, among many works of
+ inferior merit, some good pictures by great artists, such as Berghem,
+ Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L.David, G. Dow, Van Dyck,
+ Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese,
+ Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens,
+ Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. The
+ library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, which
+ belonged to Prince Charles Edward.
+
+ Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called
+ St. Georges d'Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of
+ preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the
+ principal industries.
+
+ From the railway station, opposite the Htel de Nevet, aline extends
+ through the lagoon Prols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and
+ yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5m.
+ south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is
+ the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Htel des Bains and the
+ Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume and
+ linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. 3m. from
+ Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the mineral water
+ establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and sedative. Good
+ for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12m. north from Montpellier
+ is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu (pop. 500) to
+ the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and having on the
+ top a chapel visited by pilgrims.
+
+ From Montpellier a line extends 43 m. W. to Faugres on the line from
+ Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, page27.)
+
+[Headnote: FRONTIGNAN. CETTE.]
+
+ 109 m. from Marseilles and 4 from Cette is +Frontignan+, pop. 3000.
+ Possessing 570 acres of vineyards producing rich amber-coloured,
+ luscious, and spirituous wines, made principally from the clairette
+ and picardan grapes. The neighbouring marshes yield annually about
+ 50,000 tons of salt.
+
+ 114 m. from Marseilles is +Cette+, pop. 29,000. At this point the
+ Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du
+ Midi, and consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to
+ Toulouse and Bordeaux, see Table "Bordeaux Cette" in the "Indicateur
+ des Chemins de Fer du Midi." Cette is 271m. east from Pau, 266 from
+ Bordeaux, and 84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await
+ passengers. _Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette
+ makes a pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt.
+ Setius, 590 ft. Ascend by the Rue d'Esplanade, and when at the highest
+ part of the Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is
+ magnificent. In front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with
+ its villages. At the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond
+ Frontignan. The Port of Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds.
+ long, which encloses a harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two
+ jetties; the western, constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the
+ eastern 548 yds. This busy port, besides having an extensive carrying
+ trade, has a large wine manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of
+ imitations of all the well-known wines are made annually, by mixing
+ different wines with each other.
+
+ From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway
+ bridge) a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze,
+ on Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade.
+ Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline
+ springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125 Fahr. Aquart
+ contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13 of the chloride of
+ magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 grains of the
+ sulphate, and 13 of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 to 9fr., and
+ the bath treatment 4 fr. additional. The Canal du Midi enters Lake
+ Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See map, page27.)
+
+
+[Headnote: MIRAMAS. PORT BOUC.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{503}{34}
++MIRAMAS+, pop. 900, south from the station at the head of the tang
+Chamas. At the station there are a small inn and a large plantation of
+almond trees, which, when in flower, exhale a delightful perfume.
+Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon and L'Isle change carriages here
+(p.65). Also for Port Bouc, 16m. south.
+
+
+MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.
+
++Miramas to Port Bouc+ by rail through a flat plain (see map, p.66).
+The two most important towns passed on the way are: +Istres+, 6m. from
+Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, founded in the 8th
+cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of its ancient
+ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt and of the
+carbonate of soda. 13m. from Miramas is +Fos+ (Fossae Marianae), pop.
+1100, on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent.
+ At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large
+ tanks for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3miles south by
+ rail, or 16 miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29
+ miles S. from Arles by the canal, is +Port Bouc+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_
+ near the stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Htel du
+ Commerce; near the jetty, the Htel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the tang
+ Caroute, near the entrance to the great lake, the tang de Berre, is
+ an important fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour.
+ At the end of the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of
+ 10 m. At the other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive
+ square tower in the centre and another lighthouse. About 7miles west
+ from Port Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. Louis, page 72.
+ (For Port Bouc to Martigues and Marseilles, see p.118.)
+
+ +Port Bouc to Arles+, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs;
+ fare, 3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are
+ very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between
+ Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about
+ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. Passengers
+ drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors at the
+ S.W. corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map p.66.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT CHAMAS.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{506}{30}
++SAINT CHAMAS+ (Sanctus Amantius), pop. 3000, about m. from the
+station. It is situated on the N. end of the tang de Berre, and on
+both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with
+excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder
+manufactories in this place. Hardly m. E. from the Htel de Ville is
+the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre,
+with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about
+22 ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian
+pilaster surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice.
+On the top at each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are
+apparently ready to spring eastward, and the other two westward. The
+bridge is in a state of perfect repair, but the sculpture and
+inscription on the two arches over the entrances are slightly effaced.
+The road to it is by the Htel de Ville and the parish church with a
+rudely sculptured "Pieta" over the portal. The bridge is to the E. of
+St. Chamas, and is well seen from the railway, especially when crossing
+the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, which carry the rail over the
+little valley of the Touloubre. 8m. E. from St. Chamas is Berre
+station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly south, on +Lake Berre+,
+asheet of water 14m. long and 38 in circumference.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROGNAC.]
+
+{519}{17}
++ROGNAC+, pop. 900. Junction with rail to Aix, 16m. E., passing under
+the Roquefavour aqueduct, 7m. E.The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft.
+of water per second from the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring
+plain, commences opposite Pertuis, directly north from Marseilles. It is
+94m. long, of which more than 15 are under ground; it has a fall of 614
+ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of limestone hills, and crosses
+numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the largest crosses the ravine
+of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three
+tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44 ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft.
+wide at the water-way. It consists of 51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and
+cost 151,394, while the cost of the whole canal from the Durance to the
+sea, near Cape Croisette, alittle to the east of Marseilles, has been
+2,090,000. Abranch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons
+per minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by
+irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the
+basins of Raltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the
+Palais de Longchamp. (See p.114, and for the course of the canal, maps
+pp.66 and 123.)
+
+To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, pass
+under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path and
+partly by steps to the house of the concierge.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIX. HTEL DE VILLE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+ 16 m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only
+ 18 m. N. by Gardanne, is +Aix+-en-Provence, pop. 29,000. _Hotels:_
+ Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east end of the
+ Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the Htel du
+ Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the France; at
+ the baths, the Htel des Bains; opposite the Htel de Ville, the Htel
+ Aigle d'Or. Best cafs in the Cours Ren. Post and telegraph offices
+ in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite the
+ Htel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was founded
+ 120 B.C. by the Consul Sextius Calvinus around the thermal springs,
+ which he himself had discovered. The temperature of the water is 95
+ F., and the ingredients, iron and iodine, the carbonates, sulphates,
+ and chlorides of soda and magnesia, together with an organic
+ bituminous matter strongly impregnated with glairine. The
+ establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours Sextius.
+ Pension, 8 frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the Cours Ren is
+ a statue, by David, of Ren of Anjou, "le bon Roi," king of Naples,
+ Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and buried at
+ Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, was a
+ poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and
+ astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art
+ and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up
+ to the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de
+ Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Simon, and the
+ church of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the
+ host. A little higher up are the Htel de Ville, built in 1640; the
+ Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and
+ spirited sculpture. Next the Htel de Ville is the great clock tower,
+ bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Htel de
+ Ville is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble
+ statue of Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Htel de Ville is also
+ the public library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer
+ book of King Ren, with illustrations said to have been done by
+ himself. No. 569 is a small 4to volume, with copies of letters written
+ by Queen Mary Stuart. The first 57 pages relate to her early history.
+ At page 645 commences a defence of her conduct, written by a warm
+ partisan of the queen. The street, ascending through the gateway of
+ the clock tower, leads to the university buildings, the palace of the
+ archbishop, and the Cathedral of +Saint Sauveur+, built in the 11th
+ cent., partly on the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195
+ ft. high, was built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The
+ faade was commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great
+ entrance door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain
+ outer door. In the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an
+ octagonal chapel with six antique marble and two granite Corinthian
+ columns about 30 ft. high, each shaft being of one stone. The
+ ornamental sculpture on the panels and in the spandrels is by Puget.
+ On the same side are two triptychs, one by Crayer, "Mary worshipped by
+ Saints," and the other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school,
+ representing in the centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in
+ a clump of trees. On one wing is King Ren on his knees, attended by
+ the Magdalene, St. Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is
+ the king's second wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron
+ saints. On the outside of the shutters are the angel Gabriel and
+ Mary.
+
+ On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the
+ left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511,
+ representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have
+ belonged to St. Paul's of London. Among the relics the church
+ possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000
+ virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, arib of St. Sebastian
+ presented by King Ren, and three thorns from the crown of our
+ Lord.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+ The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours Ren leads directly to
+ the church of St. Jean and the +Picture Gallery+ adjoining; free on
+ Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th
+ cent. by the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the
+ Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the
+ left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de
+ Provence.
+
+ On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi,
+ inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large
+ collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have
+ either labels or numbers.
+
+ The "Biscotins" seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits
+ about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, "Gallissons,"
+ are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around
+ Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged
+ is--the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked,
+ by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as
+ in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed
+ to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees
+ are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.
+
+[Headnote: RIANS. MEYRARGUES.]
+
+ (For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123.) Coach daily from the
+ "Cours" to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8m. E.The
+ castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the
+ cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the culminating
+ point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains.
+ +Rians+, pop. 2900, _Inn:_ Htel Barme, is situated amidst olive
+ trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the
+ railway 34 m. N. from Marseilles, and 155 S. from Grenoble, passing
+ Jouques, 7 m. N., with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the
+ gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the
+ Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous
+ mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles+ (pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Htel du
+ Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu,
+ 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a
+ painting on wood attributed to King Ren.
+
+ +Meyrargues+ (pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle
+ in the valley of the Volubire. Coach at station awaits passengers
+ from Rians.
+
+[Headnote: DILIGENCES. BRANCH LINES.]
+
+ Diligence also from the Cours to Plissanne, 18m. W., passing by La
+ Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14m. W.Coach from
+ Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p.66.) 5m. N.E. from
+ Pelissanne is Lambesc.
+
+ Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the
+ best way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where
+ a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5m. N.W., and Lambesc,
+ 3m. farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de
+ la Vie, visited by pilgrims. +Lambesc+, 14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is
+ a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill
+ Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal
+ industries.
+
+ 7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is +Gardanne+, pop.
+ 3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to
+ Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See
+ under Carnoules, p. 142.)
+
+From Rognac the train passes by the tang de Berre, and halts at
+Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2m. S. from Rognac. 3m. S.
+from Vitrolles and 11m. N. from Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers,
+junction with line to Martigues (see p.66), 12m.E.
+
+Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7miles north
+from Marseilles, is the station of +L'Estaque+, avillage on the sea,
+full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valley
+of the Son. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect,
+and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2d
+December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV., to the glory
+of which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of three
+brothers, the children of Simon Puget, apoor stonemason, who died while
+Pierre was still a boy.
+
++Marseilles+ (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principal
+hotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrival
+side of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side of
+the railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the
+prices are rather more than moderate.
+
+
++LYONS TO NMES.+
+
+172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhne, passing Oullins,
+Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,
+Laudun, and Rmoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.
+
+ Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66.
+
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NMES
+
+{ }{172}
+NMES
+
++LYONS+: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
+Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9m. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
+with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle converted
+into a school. 4m. farther is +Givors-canal+, where the Nmes line
+separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29m. W.The canal of Givors,
+commenced in 1761, is 13m. long, and is used chiefly by the coal
+barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The train
+now proceeds to Loire, 16m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, famous for
+chestnuts, and then 8m. farther down the Rhne to +Ampuis+ (opposite
+Vaugris), pop. 2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and
+chestnuts, and possessing 94 acres of the Cte-Rotie vineyards, of which
+46 acres belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of
+France, remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It
+is a little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3m. farther south by
+rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
+wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, pop.
+1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ H.Commerce;
+Soleil; omnibus at station. 4m. from Chavanay by coach is Pelussin,
+pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of Virieux castle.
+7m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway viaduct of 66 arches.
+
+
+{39}{132}
++PEYRAUD+, pop. 400. Junction with line to Annonay, 9m. W., and to
+Grenoble, 60m. E. by Rives and Voreppe. +Annonay+, pop. 16,500, built
+in the hollow and on the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the
+confluence of the Dme and the Cance. _Inn:_ H.Midi, in the principal
+square, occupying the centre of the low town.
+ The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance.
+ The Htel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the
+ brothers Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon
+ ascent, 3d June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the
+ founders of one of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper
+ was long esteemed the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by
+ coach, traversing a beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From
+ Annonay the road ascends 9 m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_
+ France. Bourg, as the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and
+ manufacturing town, on the Dme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
+ covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes
+ the castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating
+ point on a vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country
+ around is covered with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the
+ road are to guide travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now
+ crosses the plateau called La Rpublique, bounded by the Bois de
+ Merlon, and then descends to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5m. from St.
+ Etienne, and La Rivire 2m. 17 m. by rail from Annonay is
+ Tournon.
+
+[Headnote: TOURNON.]
+
+56 m. S. from Lyons, 115 N. from Nmes, and opposite Tain, with which
+it is connected by two suspension bridges, is +Tournon+, pop. 6100, on
+the Rhne. Htel de l'Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the
+landing-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily
+reach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhne. Next the hotel
+is the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice.
+Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on
+lofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal
+industries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5 hrs., ascending all the way
+(see p.83). Coaches also to St. Flicien, 3 hrs. W.; to St. Agrve, 9
+hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7 hrs. W. 3m. N. from Tournon
+is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p.46.)
+
+
+{65}{106}
++SAINT PERAY+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also
+omnibus for Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the
+station, situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The
+vineyards here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which
+is natural, not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is
+the case with the other champagnes.
+
+69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by the
+Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, La
+Grotte de Nron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2m.
+farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000,
+2m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p.46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: LA VOULTE.]
+
+{77}{95}
++LA VOULTE+, pop. 5000. _Inn:_ H. du Muse. Temple Protestant. Railway
+and steamboat stations. Adirty and badly-paved town on the right bank
+and on the steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhne. On the summit
+are the Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by
+Bernard Anduze in 1305, and finished by GilbertIII. de Ventadour in
+1582, who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen,
+and the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
+iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
+ The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
+ decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ H.
+ Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhne, but behind the hills. The water contains
+ iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily from La Voulte
+ to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., and to St.
+ Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places separates at
+ St. Sauveur, 8 m. E. from St. Pierreville, and 15m. S.E. from Le
+ Cheilard. (See map, p. 46.) St. Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste;
+ Voyageur. Is prettily situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le
+ Cheilard, between high rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a
+ series of laboriously walled terraces, on which are small fields of
+ wheat intermingled with walnut, chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry
+ trees, and in the more favoured spots vines and peach and mulberry
+ trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is itself terraced the greater
+ part of the way. A few miles up the river, opposite the village
+ Chalanon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a very good specimen of an old
+ donkey-backed bridge, +Le Cheilard+, 2130 ft. above the sea, pop.
+ 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great diligence centre of Ardche,
+ is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow streets, beautifully situated on
+ the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty terraced mountains. Coaches
+ daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. Every other day to Annonay
+ by the same road as the Tournon coach as far as a little beyond
+ Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges northward. Coach
+ daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200,
+ at the confluence of the Eysse and the Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22m.
+ E. from Le Puy, near the river Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. SAUVEUR. LE CHEILARD. MARCOLS.]
+
+ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.
+
+ +Saint Sauveur to Le Beage+ by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and
+ Lachamp-Raphal (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.
+ Pierreville ascends the Gluyre or Glaire in much the same way as the
+ road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. +St. Pierreville+, 1788 ft.
+ above the sea, pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple
+ Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyre. At St. Pierreville
+ passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road
+ follows the course of the Gluyre, between great granite cliffs. 2m.
+ before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of +Olbon+, on
+ both sides of the Gluyre, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and
+ a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a
+ spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.
+
+ 6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is +Marcols+, 3380 ft. above the sea,
+ a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the
+ Gluyre. _Inn:_ H. de l'Union. This is the terminus of the
+ stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired.
+ As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan
+ for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance,
+ is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next
+ morning in a vehicle hired from the "Bureau des Diligences," 15 frs.
+ per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphal, 11 frs.
+ Le Beage is 28 m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols
+ 6m., Mezillac 11 m., and Lachamp-Raphal 16m.
+
+ The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2 hrs., coils up the sides of
+ steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed
+ situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive
+ stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former
+ one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac.
+ A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le
+ Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage.
+ Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about m. from
+ Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic
+ prisms.
+
+[Headnote: LACHAMP-RAPHAL. SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.]
+
+ 4 m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphal, 4364 ft.
+ above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where
+ generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes
+ may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1
+ hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which
+ plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way.
+
+
+THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.
+
+ 2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphal, just under the culminating point of the
+ road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison
+ Bourlati, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison
+ Bourlati a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,
+ which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly
+ seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour's easy
+ walking from Bourlati. It is a most interesting and easy excursion.
+ The +Gerbier-de-Joncs+ (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed
+ cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft.
+ above the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and
+ extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of
+ trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire,
+ running first into a little circular basin for the use of the
+ adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet
+ from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to
+ turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the
+ Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of
+ Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return
+ for the night to Lachamp, 22 m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.
+
+ +Lachamp-Raphal to Le Beage+, 12m. W. Char--banc, 10 frs. The
+ road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte,
+ continues to ascend till about 1 m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains
+ its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the
+ Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2m. from this the road
+ crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the
+ village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.
+
+ [Map: Mont Mezenc and the Source of the Loire]
+
+[Headnote: LE BEAGE. MEZENC.]
+
+ +Le Beage+, pop. 850. _Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs.
+ A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea,
+ beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradre, which
+ rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop
+ cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are
+ held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to
+ October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females
+ is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed
+ to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured
+ glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay
+ them at the rate of from 2d. to 4d. the yard, according to the
+ breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. Amost industrious lace-maker
+ can earn 1fr. per day. 3 m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater
+ is the lake Issarls, occupying a surface of 222 acres.
+
+ From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of +Mezenc+ (pronounce Mezing) is
+ visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above
+ the sea, 7 m. N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that
+ distance by the direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the
+ night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft.
+ above the sea, or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the
+ hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour.
+
+
+LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.
+
+ Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On
+ the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the
+ sea, and Crouziols, 4 m. S. from Monastier. Char--banc between Le
+ Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LE MONASTIER.]
+
+ +LE MONASTIER+, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse.
+ _Inns:_ Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11m. N.W. 10m.
+ S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the
+ sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,
+ connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church,
+ St. Thofrde, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in
+ 680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and
+ repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice
+ exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal
+ consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short
+ columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the
+ large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof
+ runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and
+ animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels
+ on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the
+ chapel of Saint Thofrde; with sculptured stone roof. He is the
+ "protecteur du Monastier"--"le bon pasteur, qui s'expose a la mort
+ pour son troupeau"--the "conservateur des fruits de la terre." (See
+ his litany.)
+
+ 11 m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful
+ mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence
+ and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthlmy near the large
+ "Place" and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the
+ village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1m. more, on an
+ eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress
+ of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the
+ town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2m. from Brives.
+
+ 36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89 m. from Lyons, and 33m. S.E.
+ from St. George d'Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and
+ Nmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is
+
+
+[Headnote: LE PUY. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+
++Le Puy+,
+
+ pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers
+ Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2m. from the town.
+ _Hotels:_ Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan
+ is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de
+ Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,
+ Chenebouterie, and Raphal, to the Place des Tables, with a stone
+ pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables
+ to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in
+ front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico
+ to the portal of the west faade of the church, built up in the 18th
+ cent., and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone
+ at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood
+ on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the "Pierre aux
+ fivres," from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who
+ lay upon it.
+
+ From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the
+ cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of
+ the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side
+ entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an
+ extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side
+ of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent.,
+ on the other is the bishop's palace, and in front a small terrace. At
+ the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent.,
+ preceded by an arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of
+ an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the
+ short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south
+ side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the
+ most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of
+ alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846
+ it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square
+ compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on
+ four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower.
+ Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working
+ image,[1] brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of
+ Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of
+ 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this
+ compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time
+ by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a
+ numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in
+ procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged
+ in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le
+ Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the
+ sacristy is the Thodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is
+ the baptistery of +St. Jean+, built in the 4th cent, on the
+ foundations of a Roman edifice.
+
+ [Footnote 1: The original image was of cedar, with the face, both
+ of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high,
+ and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian
+ like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen.]
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DE FRANCE.]
+
+ From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, amass
+ of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the
+ top is the image of +Notre Dame de France+, 433 ft. above the Htel de
+ Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th
+ September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52
+ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5
+ ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,
+ J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90
+ steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps
+ extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this
+ colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her
+ right side is seen (2 m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a
+ hill 2645 ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle.
+ Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1m. S.E., Ours
+ Mons.
+
+ On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up
+ to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d.
+ 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the
+ sculptor of both of them.
+
+[Headnote: AIGUILHE.]
+
+ Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called
+ the +Aiguilhe+, 265 ft. high, 518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45
+ at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is
+ the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and
+ consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the
+ end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and
+ repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the
+ cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb.
+
+ Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an
+ octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the
+ post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower
+ which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little
+ distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left
+ of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous
+ Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the
+ fortress of Chteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.
+
+[Headnote: MUSE.]
+
+ In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil
+ is the +Muse+, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything
+ is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left
+ are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The
+ best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now
+ occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is
+ a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities,
+ mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. OURS MONS.]
+
+ Upstairs is the +Picture Gallery+. In the centre room are portraits of
+ the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of
+ the "Danse Macabre," dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu.
+ Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris
+ 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native
+ town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to
+ the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664;
+ Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d.
+ 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695;
+ Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining
+ small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the
+ Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation,
+ Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F.
+ Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of CharlesI. of
+ England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert,
+ Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next
+ room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the
+ females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of
+ Ardche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great
+ emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre
+ case are specimens from Alenon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains,
+ Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace
+ trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to
+ Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.
+
+ 1 m. S.E. from Le Puy is +Ours Mons+, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180
+ ft. above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr.
+ Scrope most remarkable; "exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of
+ volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous
+ products of various natures, belonging to different epochs."
+
+
+LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. (Map, p.46.)
+
+ +Le Puy+, 2045 ft., +to Langogne+, 2940 ft. above the sea, 26m. S. by
+ coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold,
+ treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is about a mile
+ south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from Pradelles. 8m.
+ from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a
+ road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. above the sea, pop. 1450.
+ _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about
+ 1 m. by a good road from the extinct crater of +Le Bouchet+, 231 ft.
+ higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. deep. It is
+ very similar to Lake Issarls, near Beage (which see p.85). After
+ Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12m. S., where the
+ horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and
+ afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft., pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21m.
+ from Le Puy and 5 m. from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne
+ railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits
+ passengers. Pradelles is 24 m. S. from Le Monastier by St.
+ Paul-de-Tartas, and 2 m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p.46).
+
+ +Pradelles to Mayres+, 18 m. S.E., char--banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a
+ good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p.95), La
+ Narce, 8 m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near
+ the source of the Ardche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing
+ above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into
+ Ardche.
+
+ From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.
+ Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and
+ 12 m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.
+
+
+[Headnote: ESPALY. BORNE. DARSAC.]
+
+LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. (Map, p.46.)
+
+ For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to +Langeac+ by
+ St. Georges d'Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line,
+ 3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This
+ railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct
+ volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.
+
+ +Le Puy to Langeac+, 36 m. W. by rail. The first part of the line
+ traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1m.
+ from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of
+ basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the
+ Riou-Pzeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been
+ found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt
+ called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three
+ tiers, called les orgues d'Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at
+ the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of
+ a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.
+
+ 8 m. from Puy is +Borne+, 2535 ft. above the sea, pop. 390. Aramble
+ in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le
+ Puy. 5m. E. from this station, or 3 m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac,
+ passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th
+ cent., is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the
+ imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. Astair of 132
+ steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th
+ cent., commanding an extensive view.
+
+ 13 m. W. from Le Puy is +Darsac+, 2914 ft. above the sea. Asmall
+ hamlet, with a restaurant, the +station for Chaise-Dieu+, 13m. N.,
+ fare 2 frs., and for Arlanc, 24 m. N., or 10m. beyond
+ Chaise-Dieu.
+
+[Headnote: LA CHAISE-DIEU.]
+
+ The coach first passes through Allgre, pop. 1700, adirty little
+ village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the sea,
+ with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and
+ Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the
+ Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8m.
+ the high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at +La
+ Chaise-Dieu+, 3576 ft. above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or;
+ Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church
+ participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and
+ canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons
+ ofN. D. du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and
+ most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and
+ his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery
+ at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly
+ proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or
+ Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of
+ Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his
+ elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on
+ the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was
+ continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom
+ are the faade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high,
+ and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and
+ 110 high, attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot
+ de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with
+ a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent,
+ are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings
+ are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two
+ sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and
+ traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.
+
+ The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall
+ plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which
+ spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide,
+ and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same
+ height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one
+ between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where
+ a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery
+ has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft.
+ long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144
+ carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of
+ Arras tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the
+ centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with
+ the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an
+ altar table of black marble.
+
+ On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is
+ the "Danse Macabre," or dance of death, afavourite subject with
+ artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund
+ gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and
+ demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and
+ warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst
+ of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the
+ sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the
+ unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last
+ abbot of La Chaise-Dieu.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARLANC.]
+
+La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.
+
+ 10 m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24m. N. from Darsac, and
+ 11 m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is +Arlanc+, pop.
+ 4500, _Inn:_ H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,
+ consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed
+ mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here.
+
+[Headnote: AMBERT. FIX-ST. GENEYS.]
+
+ 11 m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43m. N. by
+ rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating
+ point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the
+ sea. 15m. from Ambert, and 11 m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop.
+ 2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some
+ 13th cent. houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the
+ family of the Tour d'Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8m. S. from
+ Thiers, is Courpire, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and
+ the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61m. N. from Darsac, or
+ 36 m. N. from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see
+ p.358; Thiers, p. 367.
+
+ The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p.46) is +Fix-St.
+ Geneys+, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_
+ H. des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the
+ Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2m. farther is the station
+ for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7m.
+ farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. above the sea.
+
+[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC. MONISTROL.]
+
+ The most westerly station on the line is +St. Georges d'Aurac+, 1872
+ ft. above the sea, 86 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.
+ 58m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nmes (see
+ map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop.
+ 500, is 2m. S.E. Other 2 m. E. is the chteau Chavagnac, the
+ birthplace of General Lafayette. 5 m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800,
+ most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the
+ Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the
+ 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going
+ north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d'Aurac. 4m.
+ S.W. from St. Georges, 90 W. from St. Etienne, and 36 from Le Puy,
+ is +Langeac+, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and 127m. N. from
+ Nmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ H.Lombardin; Pascon. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town
+ near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates
+ from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the town, in the valley of Morange,
+ is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.)
+
+ 15 m. S. from Langeac is +Monistrol+-d'Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea,
+ pop. 1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side
+ of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to +Le Puy+, 17m. N.E. by
+ St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in
+ a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of
+ Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.
+ 10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old
+ church. 1 m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes,
+ 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and Mont
+ Bonzon. Coach from +Monistrol to Saugues+, 6m. W., 3116 ft., pop.
+ 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the
+ Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the
+ "English general." It consists of a square vaulted roof of small
+ stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high and 6-3/8 ft. apart.
+ It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel
+ at Valence (see p. 44).
+
+[Headnote: LE POUZIN. PRIVAS.]
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NMES
+
+ {81}{91}
+ +LE POUZIN+, pop. 3000, _Inn:_ H. Lion d'Or, on the Ouvze, which here
+ enters the Rhne. The town has foundries and the remains of its old
+ castle. Junction with line to Privas, 13m. W. +Privas+, pop. 8000.
+ _Inns:_ Croix d'Or; Louvre. On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at
+ the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 ft. higher, and at the confluence of the
+ Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the Ouvze. The town, looking well from a
+ distance, consists chiefly of narrow, crooked, steep streets, and
+ dingy houses. From the promenade called the Esplanade, planted with
+ plane trees, is an excellent view of the picturesque valley of the
+ Ouvze, and of the volcanic chain of the Coiron, especially of Mount
+ Combier. 1 m. from Privas, on the plain of the Lai, is a house called
+ the Logis du Roi, in which Louis XIII. established his headquarters in
+ 1629, when, with Cardinal Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant
+ inhabitants in the town, commanded by the brave Montbrun.
+
+ From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollires, on the Eyrieux. _Inn:_
+ H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollires the coaches to
+ La Voulte and Valence on the Rhne, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and
+ to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of
+ the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas,
+ 18m. S.E. (See next page, and map p. 46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: ROCHEMAURE.]
+
+{98}{74}
++ROCHEMAURE+, pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the
+Rhne. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, but
+the old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of
+the castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and most
+frequented commences just opposite the "auberge," traverses the centre
+of the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with
+the arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the
+battlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the
+seigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on
+a needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the
+Keep, like a spear piercing the sky. Anarrow path leading so far up
+will be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley
+of the Rhne on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains.
+These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a
+massive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th
+cent. by the family of Adhmar de Montheil, and reduced to its present
+condition by order of Louis XIII.
+
+A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than
+an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of
+the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic
+columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.
+
+
+[Headnote: LE TEIL.]
+
+{95}{76}
++LE TEIL+, pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers
+for Montelimart, 3m. E., on the other side of the Rhne (p.48).
+Branch line to Alais, 62m. S.W., on the line between Nmes and
+Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogu, on this branch, 17m. S.W. from Le Teil,
+and 44m. N.E. from Alais, asmaller branch extends 12m. N. to
+Nieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance
+into Ardche (see maps, pages 26, 46, and56).
+
+
+[Headnote: AUBENAS. VALS.]
+
++Vogu, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.+
+
+ 5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba
+ Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6m. N. from
+ Vogu is Aubenas, pop. 8000, _Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with
+ vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardche,
+ and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the
+ highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now
+ containing the college, the hospital, and some other public
+ institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk,
+ butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas,
+ excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.)
+
+ 3 m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus
+ awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its
+ +Mineral Waters+. _Hotels:_ Des Bains, on an eminence above the
+ bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are
+ the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Dlicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important
+ springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe;
+ Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Htel des Bains is from 12 to
+ 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to
+ October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among
+ hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut
+ trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the
+ eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain,
+ and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a
+ grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little
+ beyond is La Dlicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Prcieuse,
+ and the others, belonging to the Socit Gnrale, are all farther up
+ the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so
+ pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the
+ Dlicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to
+ the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove
+ paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may
+ be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and
+ magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the
+ arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid
+ gas.
+
+[Headnote: ANTRAIGUES.]
+
+ 5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16m. from Privas, is
+ +Antraigues+, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks,
+ at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents--the Bise, Mas,
+ and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent
+ view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the +Coupe d'Aizac+,
+ covered with a beautiful reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise.
+
+
+[Headnote: NEYRAC-LES-BAINS. THUEYTS. MAYRES.]
+
+AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. (Maps, pp.56 and46.)
+
+ Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through
+ Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is
+ +Neyrac-les-Bains+, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des
+ Bains; H.Fournier. 2 m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7from Vals, and 9
+ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Lger,
+ containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81
+ Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,
+ the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in
+ 2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2m.
+ W., on the left bank of the Ardche, at its confluence with the
+ Mdric, is +Thueyts+, pop. 2600, _Inn:_ H.Burine, situated on a bed
+ of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea.
+ Through this bed the Ardche has, in cutting a passage for itself,
+ laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft.
+ high, extending nearly 2 m. down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg
+ are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Mdric, called the
+ Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d'Enfer, 330 ft., which,
+ unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part
+ commences the Pav-des-Gants, a tableland composed of granite and
+ basalt of an average height of 214 ft. from the base, lined with
+ vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock,
+ is the +Echelle du Roi+, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms,
+ within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the
+ tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne.
+ The ascent requires about 1 hour.
+
+ The diligence now ascends the Ardche to Mayres. About half-way, near
+ the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d'Abraham,
+ 4358 ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.
+
+ 5 m. from Thueyts is +Mayres+, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce.
+ 1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.
+ above the sea, and on the Ardche, which here flows in a narrow gorge
+ between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres.
+ For Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From
+ Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet
+ of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d'Astet, 4925 ft. above the
+ sea.
+
+ 7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170
+ ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardche. 2m. farther is La
+ Narce, pop. 900. Alittle beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and 14 from
+ Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea,
+ where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the
+ travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4m. N. from Peyrebelle is
+ Coucouron, pop. 1400.
+
+ The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the
+ snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.
+
+ 35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16m.
+ from Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p.88, and maps, pages
+ 26, 56 and 46).
+
+
+[Headnote: PRADES.]
+
++Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, St. Eulalie,
+and Source of the Loire.+
+
+ For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p.46.
+
+ 11 m. N. from Vogu station and 5 from Aubenas station is the
+ terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it
+ coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600,
+ is situated on an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardche. In
+ the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting
+ terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the
+ Ardche, and to the east of Jaujac, is +Prades+, pop. 1200, on the
+ Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.
+
+ Near the railway terminus is the village of +Pont-de-la-Baume+, pop.
+ 900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, at the
+ confluence of the rivers Fontaulire and Alignon with the Ardche. One
+ of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the
+ neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded
+ here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,
+ Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.
+
+[Headnote: JAUJAC. MONTPEZAT.]
+
+ 3 m. from La Baume, or 7 from Aubenas by coach, is +Jaujac+, the
+ Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence
+ above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from
+ Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms.
+ From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by
+ the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the
+ columns, which, however, are not vertical. About m. from the town is
+ the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the
+ coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and
+ gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the
+ crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous
+ chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals.
+
+ 14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by
+ diligence, is +Montpezat+. The road from Aubenas ascends by the
+ Ardche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which
+ are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on,
+ within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of
+ Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. high,
+ over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulire or
+ Fontollire. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulire is Mt.
+ Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region.
+ The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the
+ top. The bridge is about 10 minutes' walk from Montpezat.
+
+ +Montpezat+-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above the
+ sea, rising from the Ardche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is the
+ terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulire has its source in
+ the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the
+ new road La Vestide is 6 m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of
+ the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but
+ the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the
+ village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.
+
+
+MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.
+
+ To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,
+ 16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12m.,
+ 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the
+ road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite the extinct
+ volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake
+ Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above the sea.
+ After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort,
+ crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades,
+ 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le
+ Beage, 6m. N. (see p. 84).
+
+[Headnote: SAINTE EULALIE.]
+
+ From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by
+ Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. +Sainte Eulalie+, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure,
+ in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2m. S. from
+ the road between Lachamp-Raphal and Le Beage. The large peak seen in
+ the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the
+ source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the
+ one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the
+ path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp.46 and
+ 85).
+
+
+[Headnote: RUOMS. LARGENTIRE.]
+
++Ruoms, Largentire, Vallon, Pont d'Arc.+
+
+ See map, page 56.
+
+ 25 m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogu, and 36m. N.E. of Alais,
+ is +Ruoms+. Station for Largentire, 9 m. N., 1 fr. For Joyeuse, 8m.
+ W., and for Vallon, 6m. S. Largentire, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe;
+ France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix,
+ pop. 5000, on the Cze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and
+ glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with
+ important coal-fields. Largentire, or properly L'Argentire, situated
+ in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous
+ mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the
+ Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.
+ Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb,
+ Rosires, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and
+ the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the
+ chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the
+ arms of the family of Joyeuse.
+
+ The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a
+ considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT D'ARC.]
+
+VALLON TO THE PONT D'ARC. (Map, p. 56.)
+
+ One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_
+ *H. du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont
+ d'Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as
+ far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves.
+ A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs.; to St. Martin it costs
+ 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. from the railway station of
+ St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhne (see p.98).
+ The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,
+ 2frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing down the
+ Ardche. The Pont d'Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardche,
+ composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through
+ which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.
+ high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.
+ There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is
+ unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding
+ scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry
+ trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. high,
+ which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great
+ stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them
+ is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,
+ honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are
+ better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by
+ other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly
+ appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54.)
+
+
+ miles from LYONS
+ miles to NMES
+
+{102}{69}
++VIVIERS+, pop. 3300. _Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are
+along the road parallel to the Rhne: the old town with the cathedral is
+on the hill behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here,
+along the W. side of the Rhne, are lofty limestone cliffs, the
+quarrying and preparing of which forms the principal industry of the
+place. Coach to Aps, 8m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing
+St. Thom, pop. 600, at the junction of the Ngue with the Escoutay,
+which flows through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Chteauneuf, on the
+opposite or east side of the Rhne.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOURG-ST. ANDEOL.]
+
+{109}{62}
++BOURG-ST. ANDEOL+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their
+omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on
+the opposite or E. side of the Rhne. Le Bourg has handsome quays
+alongside the Rhne, achurch founded in the 11th cent., and some houses
+of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards from the town, at the foot
+of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de Tournes, which, after turning
+various mills, flows into the Rhne. About 20 ft. above it is a much
+effaced sculpture in relief, representing the sacrifice of a bull to the
+god Mithras.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. JUST.]
+
+{115}{57}
++ST. JUST+ and St. Marcel station, from which both towns are less than a
+mile, but in different directions. 2m. from the village of St. Just is
+St. Martin, pop. 600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardche.
+Aferry-boat crosses the river. On the other side, alittle farther up,
+is Aiguze, pop. 450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien,
+but not seen from St. Martin.
+
+Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4 m. up
+the river, or 3m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price depends
+upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of a
+tunnel, 4m. long, which here and there widens out into spacious lofty
+caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, and
+fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none but
+ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour.
+The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-Saint
+Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andol.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT-ST. ESPRIT.]
+
+{119}{53}
++PONT-ST. ESPRIT+, pop. 5000. H. de l'Europe. Coach to La Croisire, on
+the other or east side of the Rhne. (See for bridge and Croisire page
+50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons and Avignon. Pont-Saint
+Esprit, on the west side of the Rhne and on the western Rhne railway,
+makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, with pleasant
+promenades by the side of the Rhne. Down from the bridge are the church
+of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in the 15th cent.
+Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. Within, down a
+steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel constructed in
+1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
+beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
+pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
+Htel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faences) pottery.
+Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. At
+Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
+inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, page56).
+
+Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardche, 4 m.
+N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)
+
+7 m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cze, pop. 5000. H. du
+Louvre. Omnibus at station. Amanufacturing town. Coach to Uzs,
+17m.W.
+
+
+{132}{39}
++LAUDUN+, pop. 2200, about 2 m. west from the station, and 10m. from
+Orange, is built on a hill 350 ft. high. The vineyards in the
+neighbourhood produce a good white wine. Junction with branch to Alais,
+35m. west, by Connaux, St. Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and
+Mejannes; small and uninteresting towns (see map, p.26).
+
+
+[Headnote: ROQUEMAURE.]
+
+{137}{34}
++ROQUEMAURE+, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at
+station. Situated on the small branch of the Rhne which encircles the
+island of Mmar, 1m. long. The best part of this curious old town is
+in the neighbourhood of the Htel du Midi, where are the public
+promenade with large trees, the great embankment to protect the town
+from the invasions of the Rhne, and the ruins of the old castle, of
+which the most remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point
+of a great rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the
+village. Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the
+Rhne, has a dingy and untidy appearance. ClementV., first Pope of
+Avignon, died here in 1314. 5m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good
+wine is made.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONT-D'AVIGNON.]
+
+{144}{27}
++PONT-D'AVIGNON+, station on the west side of the Rhne for Avignon
+(p.63). Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. The omnibus between
+Avignon and Villeneuve passes the station every hour. Tram every
+between the station and Avignon.
+
+7 m. S. from the Pont-d'Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhne, at a
+considerable distance from its station. 3m. farther is Thezirs, pop.
+650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the ruins of a
+castle. (Map, page66.)
+
+
+{159}{12}
++REMOULINS+, pop. 1400, with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to
+Uzs, 12m. N.W. On this line, 3m. from Remoulins and 9 from Uzs,
+is Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.
+(For description and directions see pp.64 and 104, and map page66.)
+
+[Headnote: UZS.]
+
++UZS+, pop. 5600, _Inn_ Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by
+picturesque calcareous rocks. From the inn walk past the church St.
+Etienne, then turn to the left, and having gone down the avenue ascend
+the double stair leading up to the beautiful terrace, on which, to the
+left, stands the Cathedral, and to the right, projecting from the
+balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which
+Racine resided with his uncle, acanon of the cathedral. Below, in the
+deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the Roman
+aqueduct at Nmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a square
+basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of which five
+are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by twin open
+arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled roof,
+partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of the
+church is the bishop's palace, now the Sous-Prfecture, and the seat of
+the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the
+most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with
+turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carre de l'Horloge,
+surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The
+octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the
+cole des Frres, and the low square tower from the church of St.
+Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret
+of Admiral Comte de Brueys, n Uzs le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort Aboukir
+(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the
+March au Bl, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and
+Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le
+Duch, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs
+d'Uzs. Fee for a party 1fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour de
+la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, 11th
+cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and in
+front the faade, 16th cent., by P.Delorme. The ground-floor of the
+"Tour de la Chapelle" contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is a
+large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross of
+copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,
+vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best
+wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzs. Besides
+the railway, Uzs is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, 17m.
+E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhne, 19m. N. from the Pont
+d'Avignon, and 7m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.
+
+[Headnote: SERNHAC-LDENON.]
+
+After Remoulins the train halts at the station +Sernhac-Ldenon+.
++Ldenon+, pop. 700, is about 2m. W. from the station, and +Sernhac+,
+pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7m. from Nmes is the St.
+Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2m. nearer, Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with
+a handsome modern church, and in the cemetery the ruins of the chapel of
+St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from railway.
+
+
+ [Map: Nimes]
+
+[Headnote: NMES. AMPHITHEATRE.]
+
+172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27 m. S.W. from Avignon, 31m. N.E. from
+Montpellier by Gallargues, 17m. W. from Tarascon, 80m. N.W. from
+Marseilles, and 450m. S.E. from Paris by Clermont-Ferrand, is
+
+NMES,
+
+population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. Aflight of
+steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the station. At the foot
+of these steps is the Htel des Arts, pretty comfortable room 2frs.,
+dinner with wine 3frs. The trams start from in front of the house. In
+the town are: On the Esplanade, the H.Luxembourg, the most expensive.
+By the side of it, fronting a garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9
+to 12 frs. Fronting the amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to
+10 frs. Opposite the Maison Carre, the H.Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the
+most conveniently situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses
+await passengers at the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B.
+du Grand Cours, between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph
+Office in the Place de la Salamandre, asmall "Place" off the B. des
+Calquires. Temple Protestant, the Porte d'Auguste, and the handsome new
+church of St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end
+of the B. des Calquires, beyond the Esplanade.
+
+_Sights._--The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carre, and the Roman Baths.
+_Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the Amphitheatre, and at the
+Maison Carre. Cab carrying 4, 2frs. per hour.
+
+A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the
+Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble
+colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhne, the
+Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the
+pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nmes, with
+its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and
+the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.
+
+The great sight in Nmes is the Roman +Amphitheatre+, the most perfect
+extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437
+ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building
+are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches
+being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an
+attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained
+the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the
+upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being
+roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching from side to side. There
+were four entrances, one facing each of the cardinal points of the
+compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats in 4 zones, capable of
+accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. The lowest zone
+corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the galleries. The
+present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., opposite No. 8
+Place des Arnes. The stair that leads up to the top is under the fifth
+arch west. No description can express the sensation experienced from
+contemplating this vast Roman structure from the highest tier or from
+the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it must be remembered
+that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent step might have
+serious consequences. The date of the building is uncertain. Titus,
+Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured to have been the
+founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, the Castrum
+Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8th cent.,
+till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died in 715.
+
+On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, with,
+on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including the
+Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archological Museum,
+containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the
+neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other
+pictures, aMagdalene by Guido; AHoly Family, aHead of John the
+Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; AHead of a Girl and a
+Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of his mother,
+by himself; Cromwell regarding CharlesI. laid out in his coffin, by
+Paul Delaroche, his chef d'oeuvre; "Nero and a Sorceress experimenting
+on a slave with the poison they were preparing for Britannicus," by
+Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by Grard Dow,
+Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van den Welde,
+and Wouvermans.
+
+At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with frescoes
+on gold and blue grounds by H. and P.Flandrin.
+
+[Headnote: LA MAISON CARRE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them +La Maison
+Carre+, abeautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably part of the
+Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending east and
+west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed to have
+been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a platform, and
+is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 Roman-Corinthian
+columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll frieze, sculptured
+dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are attached, excepting
+the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the railing are
+mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.
+
+Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor,
+built in the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The
+most venerable portion is the faade, constructed of large blocks of
+stone. Adelicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis,
+extends under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by
+brackets with acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand,
+in the interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior
+frieze.
+
+[Headnote: ROMAN BATHS. TOURMAGNE. FORT.]
+
+N.W. from the Maison Carre is the Public Garden, adorned with vases and
+statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane
+trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the
+temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built B.C. 24, of huge
+carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, and reduced to its present state in
+1577. The little of the ornamental work that remains is very much
+mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected from the troublesome winds of
+Nmes, are the +Roman Baths+, about 12 ft. below the level of the
+gardens, the vaulting being supported on small columns, over which rise
+open stone balustrades. Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies
+them, as placid but somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse
+(p.65).
+
+From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier to
+an octagonal structure called the +Tourmagne+, 90 ft. high, erected
+before the Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was
+originally filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in
+search of treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in
+1843. The view from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.
+
+Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the
+town prison. On the western side of the fort are the remains of the
+reservoir, _castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by
+the canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings
+water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the fort.
+
+In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nmes, 7 ft. high,
+pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte
+d'Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of
+the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the
+Rue Carrtrie. (See plan.)
+
+The ancient name of Nmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia
+Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volc Arecomici. As early as the
+reign of Augustus it was a "colonia," and possessed in the days of
+Strabo the "+Jus Latii+," and therefore was independent of the Roman
+governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was exported
+to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal emporium in
+the south of France. The wines of Nmes are in repute in Paris,
+particularly the Costire and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de Remde.
+Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who introduced
+tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis Philippe, were
+born at Nmes.
+
+[Headnote: PONT-DU-GARD.]
+
+13 miles from Nmes is the +Pont-du-Gard+, built by the Romans in the
+reign of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25m. long, which, from the
+neighbourhood of Uzs (page 99), brought the waters of the Eure and
+Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which only vestiges now
+remain. This "Pont," which spans the valley or banks of the river
+Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total height above the
+bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are formed of hewn
+stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; but the mason
+work underneath the channel of the third or top story is of rough stones
+cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The first or lowest row
+consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, except the largest,
+which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven arches of the same
+dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches of 15 ft. span.
+Astair from the right bank of the river leads up to the watercourse
+above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking boldness of its design
+this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and superiority over all the
+other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, and the piers in proportion
+lighter, and had the same principle been extended so as to have formed
+it of one single row from top to bottom, it would have equalled in the
+skill and disposition of its materials the more judicious and more
+elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p.77). Take ticket
+to Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,
+take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another
+ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins
+station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p.64).
+
+79 m. S.E. from Nmes by rail is +Marseilles+ (p.111), passing
+Tarascon, 17m. (p.66), and Arles, 25m. (p.68).
+
+
+[Headnote: VIGAN.]
+
+NMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.
+
+ See Map, p. 26.
+
+ 58 m. N.W. by rail from Nmes is Vigan, whence coach 43m. W., 9 hrs.,
+ to Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of
+ importance on this line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan,
+ are very picturesque. 27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nmes, is Quissac,
+ pop. 1800, junction with line to Lezan, 9m. N., and thence 4m. E.
+ to Mas des Gard, on the Nmes and Alais line. 9m. W. from Lezan is
+ St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this
+ the line goes westward by La Cadire to Ganges, 9m. from Vigan, on
+ the Hrault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche,
+ omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2m. farther
+ is Jumne, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron mines.
+ 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line crosses
+ the Hrault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre follows
+ the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Voyageurs;
+ Cheval Blanc; both in the "Place," near the statue of the Chevalier
+ d'Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and "Mort glorieusement Clastercamp
+ 27 ans." Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hrault, is 860 ft.
+ above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with terraces of
+ vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to nearly their
+ summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved streets.
+ The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the post
+ office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the
+ neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,
+ on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the
+ Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it
+ are the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.
+
+[Headnote: VALLERAUGUE.]
+
+ Coach daily to +Valleraugue+, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14m. N., in a very
+ picturesque region, on the Hrault, in a deep wooded valley between
+ the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espron mountains
+ towards the S. The principal source of the Hrault is a little higher,
+ towards the W., at Sreyrde. From Valleraugue the ascent is made in
+ about 2 hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the culminating
+ point of the Espron, commanding a magnificent view. The source of the
+ Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of the Tarn to
+ the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent fishing,
+ botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.
+
+[Headnote: LARZAC.]
+
+ +Le Vigan to Millau+, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village
+ the coach passes is Molires, on a hill above the road, with
+ coal-mines. From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5
+ m., and Arre, 6m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves
+ by a tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with
+ the village Alzon, 12 m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the
+ Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of 7m.
+ the coach arrives at Sauclires, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ H. du Nord,
+ producing excellent pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this
+ ascends the southern side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with
+ vineyards, olive and mulberry trees, and farther up forests of
+ chestnut trees. From the other side of the ridge it descends to the
+ valley of the Dourbie, in which is St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000,
+ _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having
+ traversed the valley of the Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches
+ Nant, pop. 2000, a poor village, on an eminence, 16m. from Millau.
+ Shortly afterwards the diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of
+ +Larzac+, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the village of La
+ Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is Millau, on the line to
+ Paris by Rodez.
+
+ [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the Passes from France into Italy]
+
+
+
+
+[Headnote: TEMPERATURE. VEGETATION.]
+
+THE RIVIERA.
+
+
+HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.
+
+ [Illustration: thermometer]
+
+The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of
+the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots.
+It is usually divided into two portions--the Riviera from Hyres to
+Genoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles
+long. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former--the
+Western Riviera--which has been subjected to most careful and minute
+meteorological observations, and the various stations classified
+according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203
+miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in
+all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from
+each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some
+peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity
+being more often accidental and social--such as the people met with, the
+lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which
+exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of the
+mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. None
+of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficiently
+high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher
+mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep
+indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams,
+descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and
+all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them--the more
+sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is
+the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous
++Mistral+, anorth-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels like
+a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean winter
+temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyres, considered the
+coolest of the winter stations, is 47.4 Fahr., and of San Remo,
+considered the mildest, 48.89 Fahr. The coldest months are December and
+January. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively.
+Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule,
+cloudy and wet weather the exception. "In December wild flowers are rare
+till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone,
+and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have
+become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses,
+primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are
+springing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones.
+In March the hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the
+Mediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums,
+convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli." --_H. S. Roberton_. There is a
+much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm
+flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the
+midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the
+orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), the
+camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree (_Ceratona
+siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and different species of the
+Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. In marshy places the
+common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great height; while the _Sedum
+dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dry
+rocky banks with verdure. The most important tree commercially is the
+olive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tracts
+in the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree
+(_Quercus suber_), the Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the
+chestnut tree. The Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in
+the orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the
+exception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees
+ripen their fruit too late for the winter resident.
+
+On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyres, St. Raphael, Grasse,
+and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. or 9s.
+per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantial
+meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. In
+some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. If
+two are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, an
+excellent plan is to take a furnished room, which, with a south exposure
+and good furniture, ought to cost about 2 per month. They can easily
+prepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them.
+If the party be numerous, apartments should be taken, which vary from 2
+to 30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnished
+apartments are let at prices varying from 18 to 100. As a general rule
+it is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to select
+either the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequate
+idea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house.
+Amaid-servant costs nearly 1 per month, acook about one-half more,
+but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal to
+nearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by the
+kilogramme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs.
+3oz.
+
+[Headnote: COST OF LIVING. FISH. VEGETABLES.]
+
+Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton
+cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. Agood chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when at
+their dearest cost 1d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the litre. The
+best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese there are a
+great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort and
+the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 3s.
+6d. the kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the
+coast are: the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or
+Bass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard
+(Grondin), the John Dory (Dore Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the
+Conger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior
+to those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good
+vegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks,
+celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and
+artichokes. The cardon (_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon
+porrifolius_) are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon
+tastes like celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes
+are of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the
+stations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers,
+bakers, and grocers.
+
+[Headnote: ADVANTAGES.]
+
+Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the
+Riviera, "some of the general advantages of the invalid's life in this
+region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine
+which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun often
+rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness and
+warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without a
+cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying in
+his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints which
+characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light,
+asouthern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a softness of
+outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy description. In the
+early stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young and
+active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden exposure, this cheering
+influence is most beneficial. It is of great importance that, while
+taking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an early
+age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-day
+increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under the
+influence of medicine and climate a large number of these patients
+gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with due
+care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglect
+to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience and advice
+with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and may often
+prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in unhealthy
+localities." To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, that
+patients should bring with them a letter from their physician describing
+their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.
+
+The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then there
+is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny walks
+there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyres and
+Bordighera.
+
+[Headnote: SEA-BATHING. DOCTORS' FEES.]
+
+_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be continued with advantage by many
+during the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall of
+the tide are so trifling, the beach is always in a fit state for the
+bather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised than
+that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt.
+
+_Doctors' Fees._--French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10
+frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20
+frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients.
+An extra charge is made for night work.
+
+Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, tea,
+arrowroot, Liebig's extract, Gregory's mixture, opium pills, and a
+little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary
+wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and
+should always be watered.
+
+
+[Headnote: MARSEILLES.]
+
+MARSEILLES.
+
++MARSEILLES+, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 hrs.
+37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice
+5 hrs. 27 min. 536m. S. from Paris, 190m. S. from Lyons, 120m. W.
+from Cannes, and 140m. W. from Nice. On the departure side of the
+railway station is the +Terminus Hotel+ (dear). The hotel omnibuses
+await passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, to
+which the driver of its omnibus will respond.
+
+A plentiful supply of +Cabs+ is both at the railway and the custom-house
+station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished with an
+official tariff, which, though constantly changing, may be stated to
+be--Between 6 A.M. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the course,
+1fr.; the hour, 2frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2
+frs. From midnight to 6 A.M. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30
+kilo., or 68-4/5 lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each
+passenger 1fr.
+
+_Hotels._--In the Rue Cannebire, ascending from the Port, are very fine
++Cafs+, and in the eastern continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the
+best +Hotels+. The Htel du Louvre et de la Paix; the Htel Noailles;
+and the Htel Marseilles; all near each other, and charging from 12 to
+20 frs. per day.
+
+Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R.
+Cannebire, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between
+the Port and the Bourse, the Htel de Genve, acomfortable house; on
+the opposite side of the Rue Cannebire and near the opera house, the
+Htel Beauveau; near it, in the R.Vacon, the *Htel des Colonies.
+
+In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand and
+an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of
+which the best is the Hotel des Phocens, 28 R. des Rcolettes. Rooms,
+2 frs.; Dinner, 3 frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Htel de
+l'Europe, a"maison meuble," in which good rooms, including service,
+cost 2frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the neighbouring
+restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is G.Restaurant des
+Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the Restaurant Bouches du
+Rhne, acheap house. The other second-class houses in the Cours
+Belsunce which can be recommended are--the Californie; Deux Mondes;
+Hotel St. Marie; Ngociants; Alger. The Htel du Cours is good also, but
+it is only a "maison meuble." The continuation of the Cours Belsunce is
+called the Cours St. Louis, where a flower-market is held. Just off this
+Cours, in the Rue d'Aubagne, is a cheap, good, and clean house, the
+hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1 to 3frs.; dinner, la
+carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and cheap house, the Htel
+Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for which either a cab or
+the general omnibus must be taken at the station.
+
+[Headnote: STEAMBOATS. CUSTOM-HOUSE.]
+
+_Steamboats._--The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et
+Cie., of Fraissinet et Cie., of the P. and O.Navigation Co., etc.,
+arrive and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is
+at the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gates are
+porters and a large cab-stand. The custom-house contains one
+waiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third.
+Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6
+sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receive
+an acknowledgment. Atramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette to
+Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebire by the R. de la
+Rpublique. There are no hotels near the steamboat station.
+
+Small boats' station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the
++Chteau d'If+, 8frs. from 3 to 3 hrs. On feast days small steamers
+make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, but
+do not land the passengers, fare fr., time 1 hr. At this part of the
+quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges and
+other fruits. From the Htel de Ville (1in plan) on the port, the
+Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. At
+the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean,
+other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carnage, by the side of
+Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the interesting old church of St.
+Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame.
+
+The principal Temple Protestant is in the R.Vincent, No. 2. There is
+another in the R.Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post Office at No.
+53. Poste-Restante, "guichet," on the ground-floor, opposite the
+entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pav d'Amour. Anglican
+chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallel
+to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Muse, in the cole des
+Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.
+
+Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.
+
+The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue
+Noailles.
+
+ [Map: Marseilles]
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS. TRAMS.]
+
++Sights.+--Palais Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the Picture
+Gallery and the +Natural History Museum+; free. Closed on Mondays and
+every day between 12 and 2 (see p.114). Near the Palais is the
+Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p.116). The
+shops and cafs in the Rues Cannebire and Noailles. Adrive on the
+Corniche road.
+
+Of all the +Trams+ the most important starts from the left of the statue
+in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Chteau des Fleurs and the Prado
+to its Bonneveine terminus, alittle beyond the racecourse. Just behind
+the Bonneveine terminus is the +Chteau Borly+, containing the Muse
+d'Archologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in the
+neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin of
+Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Roman
+mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies; and in the end
+room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff of
+the prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple of
+Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, fayence from
+Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons,
+and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. in diameter.
+
+[Headnote: CORNICHE. BOUILLABAISSE.]
+
+Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de Rome,
+near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche road, considered the
+most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare fr. The gardens and
+pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to the
+irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on the
+Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of the restaurants the
+best is the Hotel Roubion, afirst-class house, charging 15 frs. per
+day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5frs. additional. The
+house is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at the
+entrance into the Vallon de l'Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, has
+handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish dinners and
+Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. This
+establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along the
+Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept a
+supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse,
+akind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes--plum-pudding,
+puchero, haggis, etc.--admits of considerable latitude in the
+preparation. The essentials are--whole rascasses and chapons (scorpion
+fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a liquor mixed with a little of the
+best olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra good
+Bouillabaisse should include also crayfish, afew mussels, and some
+pieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass.
+
+[Headnote: PALAIS DE LONGCHAMP.]
+
+Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking a
+short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebire and Noailles,
+enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2
+sous. +The Palais de Longchamp+, which cost 165,000, consists of two
+rectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionic
+volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massive
+archway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringing
+the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November
+1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of Louis
+PhilippeI. Another records that the palace was commenced in the reign
+of NapoleonIII., on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 15th August
+1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes a
+copious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft.
+in three stages. The wing to the right, standing with the face to the
+palace, contains the Natural History Museum; and the other, the picture
+and sculpture galleries.
+
+All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large
+pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room
+left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best
+pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:--F. Bol, d.
+1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, d. 1671,
+portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated;
+Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; Gongo, d. 1764,
+Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d.
+1554, portrait; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713,
+Cardinal Cibo; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766,
+Mme. de Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino,
+d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; F.Porbus, d.
+1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; Rembrandt, d. 1669,
+AProphetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d.
+1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640,
+Wild-boar Hunt; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588,
+Venetian princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the
+right is the "+cole Provenal+," containing, among other
+paintings--Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milkmaid, and
+portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, d. 1849, "La
+Vierge Consolatrice"; P.Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, among
+others, J.F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman feeding Child.
+
+The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the
+conchological division and the collection of ammonites.
+
+From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the palace,
+on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the sea,
+supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See under
+Roquefavour, p.77.) At this part of the hill is one of the entrances to
+the Zoological Gardens; free on Sundays, when they are crowded with
+people. Near the entrance is the +Observatory+, one of the most
+important in France.
+
+[Headnote: HTEL DE VILLE. LA CONSIGNE.]
+
+The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is protected
+on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. Its
+approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant is on
+the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8m. S.W. from Marseilles.
+The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres,
+and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned trading-vessels, with
+their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphatically
+the "Port," containing 75 acres. From the end of the "Port" extends
+eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street La Cannebire, so
+called from the rope-walks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly the
+middle of the N. side of the "Port" is the +Htel de Ville+ (1in plan),
+built in the 17th cent., and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born at
+Marseilles; while at the western extremity of the same side, next Fort
+St. Jean, is a low building called La Consigne, or Health Office. Over
+the chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful
+relief in white marble by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To
+the right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce
+administering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants of
+Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David.
+Fronting the windows, "The frigate Justice returning from Constantinople
+with the plague on board," "l'an 4 de la Rpublique." Opposite the
+fireplace, "The cholera on board the Melpomene," by Horace Vernet. Next
+it, by Guerin, "The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had died
+of the plague." Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two
+windows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, fr.) Near the Consigne
+is the pier of the ferry-boats. Above the Htel de Ville is the town
+infirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. above the quay of
+Joliette, [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ARC DE TRIOMPHE.] the +Cathedral+,
+aByzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., and 165 ft. from E. to W.
+at the transept; built of gray Florentine stone alternating with a
+whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Arles. The nave is 52 ft.
+wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome is 196 ft. high. Behind
+the cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4),
+and the Hospice de la Charit (7). Eastwards, in the Place d'Aix, is the
++Arc de Triomphe+, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced
+on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc
+d'Angoulme in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58
+ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the
+battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar
+statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz.
+Over the arch is the inscription-- "_A la Rpublique_." From the arch a
+steep street, the R. d'Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at the
+N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, "pour perpetuer le souvenir de sa
+charit et de son dvouement durant la peste; qui desola Marseille" in
+1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p.113)
+and the Alcazar Lyrique, akind of superior caf chantant.
+
+[Headnote: BOURSE.]
+
+The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and farther
+S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours are, to
+the right the R.Cannebire, and to the left the R.Noailles, the two
+best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port end of the former is the
++Bourse+ (marked 10 in the plan), aparallelogramic building, 154 feet
+broad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60
+feet by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule are
+allegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief
+representing Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of the
+world. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the
+Opera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Prfecture (12 in plan). The
+Palais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment
+and peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force,
+Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the "Salle des Pas-Perdus," is surrounded
+by 16 columns of red marble. The Prfecture is a splendid edifice in the
+Renaissance style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues
+and bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier
+d'honneur, communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with
+mural paintings.
+
+From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of +Notre Dame de
+la Garde+, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object in
+Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right by the Cours
+Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de Colline, and
+then ascend the narrow road, the Monte des Oblats. On descending be
+careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar under a canopy
+on 4 columns. Asmall omnibus drives up the length of the Plateau de la
+Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain to the
+terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The church is
+shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can always
+be visited. Fee, fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a gilded image
+of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. The
+view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the whole of
+Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft.; to
+the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it Mont
+Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau and
+Pomgue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is the
+little island of If (p.118). Off Cape Croisette are the islands of
+Mare and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de l'Oriol)
+leads to the Corniche.
+
+
+NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.
+
+Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an
+upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The
+interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters
+and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar
+in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is
+about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and
+made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the
+face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14
+lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of
+silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and
+with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous
+interposition was displayed.
+
+[Headnote: LYCE.]
+
+From the streets Cannebire and Noailles other handsome streets ramify,
+such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the Cours
+Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the +Lyce+ or head grammar-school,
+and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothque et l'cole des
+Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard du
+Muse, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor are the
+class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection of
+medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19 wide. Among the medals
+are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. and
+1300 manuscripts.
+
+[Headnote: SAINT VICTOR.]
+
+At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and the
+Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles,
++Saint Victor+, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteries
+in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of the
+church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victor
+resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouth
+square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been added by Pope
+UrbanV., aformer abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door under
+these towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. The
+upper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th cent. Near the
+sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the original
+church, alarge and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient part
+is the small chapel shut off from the rest, with several tombs hewn in
+the rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to the
+tradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died at
+Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is marred by a modern
+altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it is said, by Puget. The shaft
+of one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces of
+ornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, and
+remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of a
+miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved by
+Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3 ft. high, and is called Notre Dame
+de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries from
+the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have been
+removed to the museum in the Chteau Borly (p.113). At the foot of the
+eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin
+de Carnage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes to
+the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is Saint
+Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.
+
+[Headnote: ISLAND OF IF.]
+
+_Excursions._--The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the +Island
+of If+, with its old chteau built by FrancisI., long used as a state
+prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebire end of the Port.
+They charge from 5 to 9frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the price
+before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whence
+a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the entrance
+to the Chteau, and a little to the left a restaurant. Aman conducts
+visitors over the castle, of which the most interesting parts are the
+cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he was thrown over into the
+sea.
+
+Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by rail (see map on p.66). At
+Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3m. W.; fare, fr. From Port
+Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the canal to Arles (see p. 76).
+After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is L'Estaque
+(see p.80), 7m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot of a
+wooded hill. 4m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to the
+station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main line, and the
+Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaits
+passengers for Marignane, 3m. W. on Lake Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains
+of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated from
+Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignane
+station arrives at the station for Chteauneuf, avillage S. towards the
+hills.
+
+[Headnote: MARTIGUES. INDUSTRIES.]
+
++Les Martigues+, pop. 10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Htel du
+Cours, and omnibus for Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of
+the outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all
+connected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large part
+of the town are on the E. or Jonquire side. On the first or smallest of
+the 3 islets are the Tribunal de la Pche and the fish-market; on the
+middle one is the Htel de Ville; and on the third and largest are the
+hospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. side
+of the canal is the part of the town called Ferrires, containing the
+harbour and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the
+principal industry of the inhabitants.
+
+There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The infirmary
+(Htel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750
+patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charit) contains generally from
+600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is the
+Hpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.
+
+The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories,
+with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at
+2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and
+chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000
+tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ
+2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated
+acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at
+320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; alarge quantity of ore,
+imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnaces
+of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards,
+together with other private companies, have large workshops for the
+construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch of
+iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is a
+great centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore; 16,000 tons of
+lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually.
+
+[Headnote: COMMERCE. HISTORY.]
+
+_Commerce._--The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from the
+Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but the one of greatest value, raw silk,
+4,000,000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and
+Japan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice.
+The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cotton
+fabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits; those of greatest bulk are
+cereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes,
+manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal.
+
+_History._--The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was
+founded by the enterprising mariners of Phoca in Asia Minor, about 600
+B.C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it was
+repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In
+1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic,
+governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the remainder of the
+Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher town was
+governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette.
+The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of St. Victor, and owned
+the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between the
+two, retained the old harbour, and was the most powerful of the three
+divisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity to
+Marseilles. King Ren made it his winter residence. Louis XIV. came in
+person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He took
+the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseilles
+repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an epidemic raged from May 1720
+to May 1721 with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find a
+parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalised
+themselves by their courage and devotion.
+
+During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristocracy,
+who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror they
+rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by General
+Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to their
+maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against
+Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a
+considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the
+Suez Canal.
+
+[Headnote: THE MARSEILLAISE.]
+
+_The Marseillaise._--The famous anthem called "The Marseillaise" was
+composed by Joseph Rouget de l'Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the
+10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6m.
+S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792,
+the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich,
+the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and during
+dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to compose a
+war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to his
+room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. In
+the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: "_Tenez, voil ce
+que vous m'avez demand, mais j'ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop bon._"
+"_Que dites vous mon ami?_" said Dietrich, after casting his eye over
+the MS.; "_vous avez fait un chef-d'oeuvre._" The mayor's wife having
+tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the theatre were engaged to
+perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was the
+enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off with nearly 1000
+instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air "Le Chant de
+guerre de l'arme du Rhin." In July of the same year a detachment of
+volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, and
+as they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march and
+in the capital it received the name of the "Hymne des Marseillais."
+Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June
+1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of the
+monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.
+
+
+
+
+MARSEILLES TO MENTON.
+
+BY HYRES, CANNES, NICE, AND MONACO. 155 MILES.
+
+See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185.
+
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{ }{155}
++MARSEILLES.+ See under "Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton" in the
+"Indicateur." The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon,
+traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by
+mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream
+Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles
+canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the
+chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all situated
+at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October,
+acoach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineral
+baths of Camoins, 2m. distant, or 5m. by omnibus from Marseilles. The
+bathing establishment is about m. from the village, in an undulating
+hollow, among plane trees, olives, and vines. The water is cold, and
+contains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is very
+effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the liver. The establishment is
+quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to 9frs. per day.
+
+10 m. from Marseilles is +Aubagne+, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus
+daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at
+Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10m. N., with coal-mines
+and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail.
+
+After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, if
+a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, apleasant fishing
+village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole
+(to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille (to the
+east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension Liautaud. An
+omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. Avery pretty path,
+passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on the
+sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6m. east by this road, and
+23m. from Marseilles by rail. The station for La Ciotat is 2m. from
+the town, but an omnibus awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l'Univers, at
+the head of a well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong
+stone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curious
+promontory, the Bec de l'Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of
+three lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the
+point is the small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing
+is carried on in +La Ciotat+; but the main business of the place is
+derived from the great shipbuilding yards of the Messageries Maritimes,
+which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town.
+
+ [Map: Marseilles to Cannes]
+
+4 m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27 from Marseilles, is the pretty village of
+St. Cyr, close to the station. 4m. farther is the station for Bandol,
+afishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. The
+industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on the
+plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.
+
+36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where
+omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, aport on the
+Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; situated a
+short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestone
+cliffs, which, about 2m. up the river, are so close to each other as to
+form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard de
+Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and Bandol is the
+culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent all
+over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. Yellow is the
+natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached.
+They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemons
+grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place of
+Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset,
+pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France.
+
+[Headnote: LA SEYNE. SIX FOURS.]
+
+38 m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is +La Seyne+
+station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de
+la Mditerrane, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which
+two ports there is constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is
+the office of the omnibus for Tamaris, avillage 1m. S.E., at the foot
+of Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus
+returns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La
+Seyne, from which Reynier is 3m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the
+new fort and what remains of the ancient village of +Six Fours+, once a
+town of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has been
+cleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, which
+occupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, of
+which the earliest part, 6th cent., is at the entrance extending east
+and west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand are
+two stone altars (6th cent.), with windows behind them to give light to
+the officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to the
+audience. The nave, extending N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It
+contains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent.
+Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the "Annales
+de Six Fours," the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brother
+Lazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt
+of St. Maximin (p.143).
+
+
+TOULON.
+
+42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyres, 22m. S. from
+Carnoulles, 59m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79m. S.W. from Cannes, 98m.
+S.W. from Nice, and 113m. S.W. from Menton, is +Toulon+, pop. 71,000
+(see maps, pp.123 and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the Grand
+Hotel, alarge first-class house; alittle farther and near the post,
+the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre; in
+the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an office where carriages can
+be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. From this "Place" start
+the omnibuses for Hyres, 11m. E. by the road; also omnibuses for
+Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountain
+in the centre of the "Place" are by Puget. In the Place d'Armes is the
+H.Place d'Armes, fronting the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band
+plays on Sundays.
+
+The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, La
+Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrires,
+Cuers, Sollis-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start
+from the Place d'Italie at the east end of Toulon. In this "Place" are
+the inns H.Petit, St. Jean, and H.Croix-Blanche. (For the above places
+see maps, pp.123 and 129.) In the Place Puget are several cheap
+restaurants. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port.
+
+[Headnote: THE QUAI DU PORT.]
+
++The Quai du Port.+--The bronze statue on this quay, representing
+Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front
+of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint
+Mandrier, 3m. S., and for the Iles d'Hyres. More to the right is the
+berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk of
+the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping planks. This
+was the vessel in which Napoleon's body was brought from St. Helena and
+deposited in the Htel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. The
+Chamber of Deputies granted 40,000 to defray the expenses of the
+expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, with
+whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and
+Marchand the Emperor's valet, all the latest and most devoted of
+Napoleon's adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, when
+the body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that same
+day the remains were embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the
+18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where
+the body was transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it
+up the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent
+car.
+
+[Headnote: CAB FARES. THE ARSENALS.]
+
+_Cab fares._--The course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2frs.
+
+The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising gradually
+from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west,
+and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on either
+side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix and
+large barracks; to the east is La Platrire, 1000 ft., and immediately
+behind it Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and
+behind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort;
+while from the water's edge at the west end of the port rises Fort
+Malbousquet. Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the
+last held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and
+most secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port
+Marchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail.
+Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy,
+all communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by
+well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the
+arsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on a
+scale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and
+employing above 10,000 men. Near the west end of the Port a large
+gateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the "Arsenal
+Maritime," covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100
+forge fires, two covered building-slips, aropery 1050 feet long, and an
+armoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by
+Puget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles
+along the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and
+ship-equipment departments.
+
+Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and
+sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the
+characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound,
+from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little caf chantant, where
+gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The
+most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf
+fronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above the
+horizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it is
+crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, unfortunately, are
+poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafs and
+restaurants, and booksellers' shops where plans of the town and
+neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November
+1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human life
+recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad with
+vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing even
+those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidst
+the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploring
+cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarking
+some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius the
+discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to the
+utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.
+
+[Headnote: TOWN HALL.]
+
+Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the +Town Hall+,
+adorned with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the
+statue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is
+the corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of
+nearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the
+smallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the large
+four, the windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in
+couples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under
+the eaves a projecting dentil cornice.
+
+The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is the
+Rue Lafayette, abroad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immense
+lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round to
+the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit,
+flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow
+five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls
+fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.)
+At the Port end of the street is the "Place," whence the omnibus starts
+for Mourillon; also the church of St. Franois de Paule. The interior
+contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to
+the left represents one of the interviews between J.C. and Marguerite
+Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Mary
+announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the "conceived
+without sin."
+
+[Headnote: SAINTE-MARIE-MAJEURE.]
+
+The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between
+houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of +Sainte-Marie-Majeure+,
+commenced in the 11th cent., and finished in the 18th. The exterior is
+unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entrance
+is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel to
+the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacle
+and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have executed
+also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing the
+apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the arch of the
+chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova.
+Several very good pictures adorn the church.
+
+[Headnote: ST. MANDRIER. MONT FARON.]
+
+All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are
+those which cross to La Seyne (p.123). The steamers for the Iles
+d'Hyres and for St. Mandrier sail also from this wharf. The St.
+Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first at
+Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to the
+north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easily
+recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situated
+towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of Fort
+Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty villas
+in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamaris
+rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent
+carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of
+the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier,
+and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the
+roads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At
+the landing-place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day.
+Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St.
+Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments of
+this kind in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a
+handsome chapel, and a great cistern vaulted with concentric circles.
+Adjoining is a large and well-sheltered garden with orange trees.
+Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d'Armes, is the
+Hpital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered,
+it is hardly sufficiently ventilated.
+
+One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet
+above the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take
+the broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the
+railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the
+town by the Port of Ste. Anne--the name is on the gateway. From this the
+real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent and
+continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town and
+the bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to the
+left goes to the barracks and to the top. The nearly level road to the
+right goes to Fort Faron, and the steep road to the left to Fort de la
+Croix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette
+side of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, from
+which rise knolls of various elevations. It can be done in a carriage.
+
+[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN.]
+
+_Toulon Omnibuses._--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are
+to +Hyres+ (p.133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a
+stream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S.
+side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426
+ft. high. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The road
+eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road
+northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence
+commanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +La
+Valette+, pop. 1700, is 3m. E. from Toulon and 7 W. from Hyres by
+the omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writing
+the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been
+done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305
+ft., in about 2 hours. "From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all
+directions. Ihave sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many,
+but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet bold
+indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon." --_George Sand._ A
+carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a
+few feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and the
+best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite
+the Htel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the
+way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves.
+
+The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite,
+eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, avillage N.E. from Ste.
+Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the
+Place d'Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of it
+is seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste.
+Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east
+of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses,
+with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope
+of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable
+village a little to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned
+with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At
+Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke.
+
+ [Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyres]
+
+[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER.]
+
+The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3m. E., behind
+Fort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours
+Lafayette.
+
+_Diligence Drives._--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19m. N. by diligence from
+the Place d'Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2 frs. (see map, p.117).
+
+ The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlde 4m., and
+ Sollis-Ville, arrives at Sollis-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and
+ 10 m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The
+ diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from
+ Hyres can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the
+ same way, but at an earlier hour. From Sollis-Pont commences the
+ beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau
+ between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are
+ covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and
+ vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2m. farther up the
+ valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Sollis-Toucas (328
+ ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12m. from
+ Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the
+ Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is
+ indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the
+ olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the
+ flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best headquarters in the
+ valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent of the
+ Gapeau, 3m. N. from Belgentier, 8 m. N. from Sollis-Pont, 6m. E.
+ from Signes, 4 m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12m. S.E. from Le Camp,
+ 5m. S. from Garoules, and 7 m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway
+ station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map,
+ p. 123).
+
+[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX.]
+
+ The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking
+ the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are
+ the words "Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge
+ of sinners, pray for us." On the fourth side "June 1870." Eastward is
+ a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the
+ eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern.
+ Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the
+ elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326
+ ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of
+ various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and
+ most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively
+ stony.
+
+ Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian
+ Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft.
+ above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1m. to a
+ bridge and first road right, which take. Alittle way up, the road
+ divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The
+ building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only
+ about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very
+ large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at
+ the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased,
+ along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars
+ from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The
+ Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their
+ rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same
+ room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have
+ each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps
+ and feeds by himself. Both affirm: "Nous ne permettons jamais aux
+ femmes d'entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage,
+ ni le prophte, ni le juge, ni l'hte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni mme
+ le premier modle sorti de ses mains, n'ont pu chapper aux caresses
+ ou aux tromperies des femmes." A nearer but very stony path,
+ commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the
+ convent.
+
+ Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by
+ Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garoules, and the
+ Toulon coach to Garoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is
+ monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to
+ Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p.142.)
+
+[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIRES.]
+
+ +Toulon to Collobrires.+--From the Place d'Italie a coach starts
+ daily to Collobrires, 25 m. N.E. by E., passing through La Valette
+ 3m., La Garde with its castle 5 m., and +La Crau+ 7m. _Inn:_ H. de
+ France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few
+ yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of
+ this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyres and La
+ Crau.
+
+ From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18m. from Toulon,
+ where the horses are changed near the first terrace, alittle higher
+ than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrires,
+ up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2 frs.; time, 4
+ hrs. Excursionists from Hyres should await the diligence at La Crau,
+ where it arrives about 4 P.M.; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station,
+ and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for
+ Collobrires, passing through Pierrefeu (p.142).
+
+ From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or
+ less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat
+ fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyres with water, is
+ crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to
+ Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the
+ Real-Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop.
+ 4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with
+ narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing
+ view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley
+ of the Ral-Collobrier to +Collobrires+, pop. 3600, on an eminence
+ rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence
+ office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal
+ street, near the Post and the Htel de Ville with the promenade. From
+ the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an
+ excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields
+ and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the
+ mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very
+ old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are
+ forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the
+ exportation of chestnuts form the principal industries. The wine, when
+ four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it
+ is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured.
+
+ A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to
+ Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and
+ Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is
+ the chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: ISLES D'OR. PORQUEROLLES.]
+
++The Islands of Hyres, or the Iles d'Or.+
+
+ Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare
+ 2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back
+ to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins
+ of Hyres to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros.
+
+ The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck
+ of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the
+ massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to
+ the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La
+ Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and
+ southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital
+ of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyres is afterwards
+ seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles
+ the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of
+ Giens (see p.140, and map, p. 123).
+
+ Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of
+ 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern
+ coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it
+ terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The
+ vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the
+ mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards
+ and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained
+ from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants
+ are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium
+ minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea,
+ Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus
+ olbiensis.
+
+ The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N.
+ side of the island, exactly opposite Hyres, and 9m. from Les Salins.
+ The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor
+ alongside. In the "Place," quite close to the pier, are the church,
+ the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the
+ two inns, of which the H. du Progrs is the larger of the two. Above
+ the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small
+ buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.
+
+ There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. coast
+ westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N.
+ coast eastward the +Chemin des Mdes+, and the road up the centre of
+ the island, from N. to S., the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road
+ commences at the N.W. corner of the "Place" and terminates at the
+ lighthouse on Cap d'Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210
+ ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70
+ steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.
+
+ The first road right from the N.W. corner of the "Place" is the Chemin
+ du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively
+ open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to
+ the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most
+ ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed
+ soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie,
+ a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea.
+
+ The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mdes, traverses the
+ most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it
+ passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose
+ summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station,
+ commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the
+ other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyres, and of the coast
+ to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road
+ right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement
+ looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mdes terminates at a
+ farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the
+ continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mdes, to the
+ N. of a hill 449 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT.]
+
+ +Port-Cros.+--11 m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of
+ Port-Cros, 12 m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the
+ island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the
+ pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by
+ the church and the proprietor's house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end
+ of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose
+ culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2m.
+ from S.W. to N.E., and 1 m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres.
+ The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and
+ quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth
+ beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times.
+
+ About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more
+ sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1 from N. to
+ S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres
+ Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea.
+ Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.
+
+
++Toulon to Hyres.+
+
+ +Toulon to Hyres.+--Passengers at Toulon for Hyres, 11m. E., can go
+ either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place
+ Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they
+ should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise
+ they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line
+ commences by La Crau to Hyres, 13 miles by rail from Toulon.
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS.]
+
+HYRES,
+
+pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the
+nearest to England, and only 18 hours from Paris. It is not so gay as
+Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but
+none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety
+of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.
+The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is m.
+S. from Hyres, and m. N. from the Hermitage.
+
+_Hotels._--At the west of the town are the Htel des Palmiers, below the
+Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d'Or, with garden off the main road; the
+H.Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d'Or. These three are
+first-class houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs., including
+bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea in
+the morning. Next the Iles d'Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the
+main street are the Ambassadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12
+frs., frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At the
+east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On
+opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house,
+the H.Iles d'Hyres, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, is
+the Mditerrane, third-class. The principal hotel on the east side of
+Hyres is the H.Orient, 10 to 13 frs., acomfortable and
+old-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, and
+off the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Sjour, from 12 to 15 frs.
+Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. des trangers, 10 to 13
+frs., in a sunny situation. About 1m. S. from Hyres, near the
+Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmest
+and most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Htel
+and Pension de l'Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs., retired and comfortable, and
+frequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest of
+pines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with those
+of Hyres. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning,
+and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnished
+apartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French and
+an English bank. Both exchange money. In the same "Place" is the Temple
+Protestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal
+chapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west
+end of the town.
+
+There are several clubs; the best are the Sicle and the Progrs, which
+take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations on
+the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or "cercles" have large
+gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.
+
+_Cab fares._--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2
+horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES.]
+
+_Drives._--A 3 to 4 hours' drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to
+8frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised
+tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand.
+The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the
+Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8frs. The same price to La
+Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley
+of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day's excursion, is to
+the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18m. N., by La Crau, Sollis-Pont
+(arailway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For
+description, see p.129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back.
+The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brganon, 16
+miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the
+eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St.
+Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7m. from Hyres) amidst large olive
+trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La
+Plage Largentire, in which is situated the Chteau de Bormettes, built
+by Horace Vernet (7m. E. from Hyres). Alittle farther east, on the
+Plage de Pellegrin, are the chteaux of Loubes (11m.) and Brganon;
+and, on the western point of Cap Bnat, Fort Brganon, about 4miles
+west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p.142.) Another pleasant drive is to
+Cuers, 14m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that
+ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the
+Valle de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes
+by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive
+trees, some 6feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides
+these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken
+in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the
+Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as
+some parts of the roads are not good.
+
+_Coaches._--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for
+Carqueyranne 6m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4m. E., for La Crau 4m.
+N. (see p.130), and for St. Tropez 32m. E., whence a steamer sails to
+St. Raphael. Near the "Place," opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var,
+start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see
+maps, pp.123 and 129).
+
+[Headnote: MASSILLON.]
+
++Hyres proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the
+south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter
+stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far
+outgrown the original limits. Aplain, 2m. wide, is between the town
+and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the
+land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east
+winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or
+north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the
+principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops
+and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of
+which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the
+Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte
+Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principal
+gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R.Portalet leads
+directly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, abust
+of Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Htel de
+Ville. Standing with the face towards the Htel de Ville, we have to the
+left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the
+house, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of
+France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared
+sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to
+the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on
+Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- "Father,
+Ihave heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but
+whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself." The language of
+Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just,
+without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in
+the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii.
+14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from
+their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopoeia, which still
+astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article
+"Eloquence" in the _Encyclopdie_ as an example presenting "_la figure
+la plus hardie, et l'un des plus beaux traits d'loquence qu'on puisse
+lire chez les anciens et les modernes_." His father, who spelt his name
+Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son
+in the same house from 1647 to 1834.
+
+[Headnote: ST. PAUL.]
+
+Above the "Place" is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace
+commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar
+represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to
+the church is an ancient baptismal font.
+
+[Headnote: ST. LOUIS.]
+
+At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la Rpublique, is
+the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style
+and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The
+quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The
+pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance
+and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies.
+The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall.
+Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture
+representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3
+children on the beach of Hyres (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of
+July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in
+the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis
+about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this
+square, the Place de la Rpublique, represents Charles of Anjou and
+Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In
+1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which
+event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to
+the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he
+dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyres. At the
+western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in
+1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864,
+and came from Spain. NapoleonI. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place
+des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyres are numerous
+nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the
+"Jardin d'Acclimatation," where animals, birds, and plants are reared
+for the Jardin d'Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These
+gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered,
+and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.
+
+[Headnote: COSTEBELLE.]
+
+From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the
+Costebelle, about 2m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the
+Montagnes des Oiseaux.
+ The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in
+ little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern
+ end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the
+ chapel of Notre Dame d'Hyres, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are
+ lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western
+ side are old olive trees.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHTEAU.]
+
+THE CHTEAU OF HYRES.
+
+On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Chteau of
+Hyres+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of
+acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Htel
+de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as
+the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The
+castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the
+7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called
+_Castrum ararum_ or _aris_, "air-castle." Considerable portions of the
+walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most
+perfect part being on the western side, above the Htel des Iles d'Or.
+The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are the
+town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards,
+towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses,
+olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with
+generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux
+Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros,
+and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the
+peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p.131), the largest of the
+islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3m. long.
+On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the
+little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d'Hyres, and the
+Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from
+Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been
+shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain,
+are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p.125), and the eastern extremity of Mt.
+Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure
+mountains and the Pointe de la Galre, with Fort Brganon. From this
+fort, northwards by the beach, are the chteaux of Brganon and
+Loubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea,
+crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp.123
+and 129.)
+
+[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET.]
+
+Behind Hyres Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group,
+the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the western
+extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at
+the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on
+which is a fragment of a tower. Agibbet for the execution of
+malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the east
+end of Hyres, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is a
+favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from the
+castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.
+
++Excursion to Mont Fenouillet.+--Behind the castle ramify three paths.
+The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the
+Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left,
+called the "Chemin St. Bernard," leads down to the west end of Hyres,
+near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt.
+Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some
+fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutus
+unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt.
+Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of
+the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited
+by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3Mai 1877),
+there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down
+to the road between Hyres and Toulon.
+
+[Headnote: THE TROU DES FES.]
+
++Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux.+--The best way is to take the
+path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending
+by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places
+it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus
+coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on
+the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyres
+on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.
+
++The Trou des Fes.+--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.
+side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fes. The
+entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior,
+covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it
+lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path
+leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down
+by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle
+road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The
+other source is in the plain, on the road "du Pre-Eternel," nearly 2m.
+S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. This
+water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1m. E., through the
+gravelly soil of the plain.
+
+To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and
+confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble
+in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the
+lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound
+heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the "chasseurs" at
+such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the
+swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure
+mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the
+walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.
+
+[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING.]
+
+ The principal agricultural products of Hyres, as indeed of all the
+ Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences
+ in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a
+ curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees
+ become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state,
+ and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12
+ Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22. The
+ cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyres, and nearly all the
+ trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each
+ of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now
+ trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime
+ and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork
+ oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive
+ member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an
+ important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has
+ become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time,
+ but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the
+ bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making
+ two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite
+ sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of
+ June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce
+ fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which
+ formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually
+ leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of
+ the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL
+ CATERPILLAR. PIPES.] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx
+ processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine
+ trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a
+ soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting
+ them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not
+ endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the
+ nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision.
+ On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the
+ Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are
+ made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris
+ manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages.
+ In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption
+ of the French word _bruyre_, signifying heath.
+
+ The "specialit" of Hyres is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits,
+ and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries,
+ peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain
+ between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The
+ gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the
+ surface, there is always abundance of water.
+
+[Headnote: BUTTERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYRES.]
+
+ "About Hyres are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the
+ Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus
+ Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the
+ beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most
+ abundantly at Hyres. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and
+ September, many of the latter generation living through the winter.
+ Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de
+ Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in
+ April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce
+ Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betul, the Argynnis Pandora,
+ the A.Niobe, the A.Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A.Valenzina, the Arge
+ Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S.Hermione, the S.
+ Fidia, the S.Phdra, the S. Cordula, the S.Acto, the S.Semele, and
+ the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer."
+ --_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyres._
+
+ +Climate.+--Hyres is especially fitted for old people and young
+ children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be
+ strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming
+ to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the
+ cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyres is
+ not suited. "The chief attractions of Hyres are its climate and the
+ beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter
+ abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated
+ movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who
+ are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the
+ plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the
+ most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the
+ more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed." --_Dr.
+ Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47.4 F., and the average
+ annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every
+ winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore
+ the chances are that the traveller's experience will not agree with
+ the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate
+ of Hyres is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice;
+ and, "generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young
+ persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis,
+ either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage
+ of that disease."
+
+
+[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHTEAU.]
+
+THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYRES AND LES SALINS.
+
+ The railway from La Pauline and Hyres to Les Salins extends 11m.
+ south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La
+ Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p.129).
+
+ 8 m. S. from La Pauline, and 2 m. S. from Hyres, is the station for
+ La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and
+ a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every
+ afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p.131). The beach
+ adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.
+ At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land
+ which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3 m. S., with the mainland. The
+ large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the
+ Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite
+ (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and
+ sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by
+ the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south
+ end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt
+ is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles,
+ and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of
+ houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyres are obtained on the
+ way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is
+ by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le
+ Chteau+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare
+ plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at
+ Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks.
+
+ From Le Chteau a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of
+ La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of
+ mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a
+ house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to
+ the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus,
+ 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys
+ covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles
+ can be had on the isthmus.
+
+ After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing
+ station of Cap (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at
+
+[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA.]
+
+ +Les Salins+, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyres by rail. The omnibus
+ from Hyres to Salins stops at the small "Place" opposite the pier.
+ Fare, fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between
+ vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little
+ harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships
+ anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs
+ for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These
+ reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually
+ 20,000 tons of the value of 10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is
+ much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently,
+ but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p.129).
+
+ +Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6 m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After
+ having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the
+ commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the
+ peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the
+ almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some
+ fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the
+ Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high
+ road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the
+ little port is about m. distant by nearly a straight road
+ southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d'Italie halts at the
+ port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to
+ the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are
+ the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be
+ conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley
+ between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest
+ strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It
+ is 3 warmer than Hyres.
+
+[Headnote: BORMES.]
+
+ +Coach to Bormes+, 14 m. E. from Hyres. The coach, after passing the
+ ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La
+ Londe, 7m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides
+ of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou
+ road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood
+ of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group
+ of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape
+ Benat and the Fort Brganon. In the Place de la Rpublique or St.
+ Franois is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At
+ the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the
+ new cemetery on the road to Collobrires, 14m. N. On the other side
+ of the "Place" is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the
+ ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes.
+ Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six
+ small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding,
+ especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and
+ mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less
+ than an hour's easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, aprosperous
+ fishing village on the coast road from Brganon to St. Tropez.
+ Savoury "langousts" or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map,
+ p. 123).
+
+
+{49}{106}
++LA PAULINE+, a few houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont
+Coudon. Junction with line to Hyres, 6m. E.Passengers who have
+missed the train for Hyres should await the omnibus at the little caf
+below. From La Pauline the train arrives at +Sollis-Pont+, pop. 3000;
+_Inns:_ Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on
+a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Sollis-Ville,
+almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the
+side of the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for
++Collobrires+ (see p.130).
+
+
+[Headnote: CARNOULES.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{63}{91}
++CARNOULES.+ _Inn:_ H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52m.
+N.W., on the line between Marseilles and Aix.
+
+
+[Headnote: GARDANNE. BARJOLS.]
+
++Gardanne to Carnoules.+
+
+Gardanne, pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11m. N. from
+Marseilles and 7m. S. from Aix (see p.77). On this line, 16m. N.W.
+from Carnoules and 36m. E. from Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, on
+the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d'Argent; Provence. This rather dirty
+town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees,
+has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are first
+carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed.
+They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, 13th cent., is
+in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse,
+was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the Sous
+Prfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In
+the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments.
+Diligence daily to +Barjols+, 16m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont d'Or;
+situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p.167).
+Diligence also to Toulon by Meounes (see p.129).
+
+[Headnote: ST. MAXIMIN.]
+
+On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is +St. Maximin+, 1043 ft.
+above the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of this
+ancient town was commenced by CharlesII. of Sicily towards the end of
+the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. It
+has no transept. The nave is 239 ft. long and 91 ft. high, and the
+aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The width of the
+church is 127 feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interior
+of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on each
+side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and fine-toned
+organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playing
+upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen of
+the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Few
+parts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty,
+elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a Flemish monk, Frre
+Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearing
+within a wreath a representation in relief of one of the incidents in
+the life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Under
+them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the rood-loft, and at the
+other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by one
+door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes.
+To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble,
+representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and on the other side, in
+terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in the
+crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N.
+aisle consists of a painting on wood by an Italian artist in 1520. In
+the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paintings on
+panels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is an
+Entombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in the
+same style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, and
+St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancient
+iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance into
+the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th cents. The sculpture above the
+sound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascension
+of Mary Magdalene. The undulating fluting on the panels and the
+sculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair down to
+the crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed a
+consecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body was afterwards put
+into the elaborately-carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of
+the altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the
+Innocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite
+Mary's is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then
+follow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella
+(Mary's maid) and St. Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been
+rifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the
+skull of Mary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one
+of her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p.123.) [Headnote: MONT
+BRETAGNE. TRETS.] The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is
+said to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque
+mountains, partly in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhne, of
+which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it,
+coach to La Poussiere, 5m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, 5
+hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285
+ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map, p.123.) 12m. W. from St.
+Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200; _Inn:_ France;
+adirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers.
+In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but they are small and unimportant.
+
+
+{75}{79}
++LE LUC+ station, 1 m. from the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse.
+Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Maure
+mountains to St. Tropez, 26m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin.
+Fare, 5frs. Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the
+station, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives,
+chestnuts, and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and
+12m. from Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where
+the horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of
+the strongholds of the Saracens. 17m. from Luc and 5from La Garde is,
+on an eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded
+streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The
+massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the
+top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and
+occupied till the middle of the 18th. 19m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez,
+and 25 E. from Hyres, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated
+on an eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from
+which they were driven (p.187), and all the fortifications destroyed
+excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. By the roadside, about
+half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a very large fir tree. 32 m.
+N.E. from Hyres and 26m. S.E. from Luc station is
+
++St. Tropez+, pop. 3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, ahouse with large rooms,
+at the head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the
+bay. The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is
+in the style found in the valley of the Rhne and along the east coast
+of the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall
+slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyres. Small chancel and no
+apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the
+high altar, one of the two usually being to "Maria sine labe concepta."
+Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the
+hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour,
+opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre Andr de Suffren, one of
+the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in
+Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The
+promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins
+of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St.
+Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyres to St. Tropez. Coach daily to
+Hyres, 32m.W.
+
+
+[Headnote: DRAGUIGNAN. LORGUES.]
+
+{84}{70}
++LES ARCS+, pop. 1200, H. de France. Branch line 8m. N. to +Draguignan+
+on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. _Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var.
+From the side of the H.Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250,
+on the Bresque. _Inn:_ H.Bernard; 13 m N.W. from Draguignan (see map,
+p.123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to Aups, pop. 2350, on the
+Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7m. N. from Salernes. _Inn:_
+Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence to Manosque by Riez (see
+p.166). Also diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see p.143). From
+Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, pop. 1000, situated
+half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ Bonne
+Foy; 6m.W.
+
+Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, which
+attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the clock-tower, 58
+ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and of the
+surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and
+intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteen
+rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardin
+des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancient
+gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principal
+products, m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large dolmen
+composed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slab
+is 16 ft. long by 12 wide and 1 thick. The others are each 7 ft. high,
+excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced.
+Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, asplendid
+specimen of a "micocoulier" (_Celtis australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft.
+high, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H.Bertin, ascend
+the street, and take the first road left. When within a few yards of the
+kilomtre stone, indicating 1 kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps,
+take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation
+(see map, p.123).
+
+
+[Headnote: FREJUS. COLOSSEUM.]
+
+{98}{57}
++FREJUS+, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at
+the S.W. extremity of the Estrel mountains, apicturesque group 13m.
+from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the "Route de Paris en
+Italie," which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22m. E., passes by their
+highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm
+of the Estrels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of
+the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre
+green pines which clothe these mountains.
+
+To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Porte
+de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arnes, of which the greatest diameter
+was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 spectators. On the
+eastern side of the station are the Porte Dore and the terrace called
+the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a Roman lighthouse. At
+this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughout
+is admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. The Porte
+Dore has alternate layers of stone and brick. Having visited the ruins
+by the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave the town by
+a road having on the left hand a large building--the seminary. Having
+walked a few paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly square
+tower, which marks the site of the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in
+this neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
+water to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24m. N.E., and contained
+87 arches. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once)
+powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part
+of the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining "vech,"
+belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. In
+the Rue vech is a house with a sculptured doorway and well-executed
+caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and glimpses of the
+Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The Phoenician
+merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum Julii or
+Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nica or Nice, and Agatha or Agde.
+Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.
+
+ [Map: The Estrel Mountains with Frejus and St. Raphal to Cannes]
+
+[Headnote: SAINT RAPHAEL.]
+
+{100}{54}
++SAINT RAPHAEL+, a rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In
+winter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and
+in summer from the hot interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the
+still more refreshing sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the
+France, 8 to 9frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an
+eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to 13
+frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the cottage
+built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. Little
+steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyres (p.134).
+Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and Valescure, 2m. inland, with G. H.
+de Valescure. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a
+salubrious and agreeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by the
+beach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Estrel mountains, where
+the rambles are endless. At the E. end of St. Raphael is a very pleasant
+park, rising from the rocks on the coast. Alittle farther towards
+Cannes is the Boulerie, with a large hotel.
+
+Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and
+here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast
+are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_.
+
+
+[Headnote: AGAY. SAINTE BAUME.]
+
+{105}{50}
++AGAY+, a small custom-house station, with a few houses at the head of a
+small but deep bay, into which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top
+of the conical hill, on the S.W. side of the station, is the +Tour de
+Darmont+, asignal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte
+Baume, 4m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape Roux,
+1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to the
+old chteau, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railway
+to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards to
+the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into the valley in
+an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of Cape Roux till
+a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, apathway will be seen going
+upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge is reached, close to
+the summit, where is a splendid view to the east and west and
+north-west; then take to the left, and in a few hundred yards a
+platform, with a spout of running water and a couple of abandoned
+buildings, is reached. Distance about 3 miles. About 260 ft. above
+this, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St.
+Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit's life for
+some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from the
+hermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the way
+remark, on the left hand, atruncated stone pillar, aRoman milestone,
+with an inscription. Some archologists base upon the existence of this
+stone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At the
+bottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.
+
+[Headnote: LE TRAYAS.]
+
+After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a
+magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +Le
+Trayas+, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11m. E. from
+St. Raphael, 6m. E. from Agay, and 8m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas
+also a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered
+nearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train
+passes from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes
+Maritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having
+passed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the
+beautifully-situated town of Cannes.
+
+ [Map: Cannes]
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+CANNES,
+
+on the Gulf of Napoule, 120 m. E. from Marseilles, 79m. N.E. from
+Toulon, 78m. N.E. from Hyres, and 19m. S.W. from Nice. Fixed
+population, 19,400. +Hotels and Pensions.+--Although there are already
+very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas there
+are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to
+resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the
+1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from 80 to 1200,
+including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens
+attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett,
+agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a
+well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the
+public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25
+frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. Afair
+gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per
+day.
+
+Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels
+and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir,
+8frs., in garden, Boulevard d'Alsace, near railway station. In the
+Boulevard Cannet, Pension d'Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther
+up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8frs. Near Trinity
+Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden
+fronting the promenade.
+
+Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the hotels,
+1 fr.; each portmanteau, fr.
+
+The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the sea,
+is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable to
+produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore
+many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ fronting
+station, the Ngociants; the [1]*Univers, 7 to 9frs. In the Alles, on
+the beach, the Htel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. d'Antibes,
+the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the H.Russie, 9 to
+12 frs.
+
+ [Footnote 1: The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name
+ of hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class.]
+
+_Hotels to the east of the Alles_, fronting the beach, taking them in
+the order from west to east:--The National, 9 to 15 frs.; Midi, 8 to 12
+frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; the last four
+are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The H.Suisse;
+Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to 12 frs. Behind
+the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H.Midi, in the R.Bossu, No.
+8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.
+
+On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre;
+H.Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix.
+Alittle way hack are the Pension d'Angleterre; H. de France; H.
+Mditerrane, 9 to 13 frs.
+
+Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels
+Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Sjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;
+Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de Californie is
+the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28th
+March 1884.
+
+In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet,
+are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all with
+gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.
+
+At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension
+Lerins, aplain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8frs. Alittle
+higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence a
+road ascends to the Htel *Paradis, which, although a first-class house,
+on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it is
+the Htel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on the
+Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs.
+
+On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is
+the *Htel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the
+H.Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach,
+and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10
+frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is the
+H.Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. Alittle beyond is Christ Church, and on an
+eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., alarge house with
+garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences,
+are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa;
+and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord Brougham's villa. Farther
+west, and on the same level, is the H.Estrel, same price. On a hill,
+alittle beyond the perfume distillery of M.Lubin, is the Pension de la
+Tour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is
+called La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there.
+From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are
+fields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the
+perfumeries (see page 161).
+
+[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Churches._--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul's, Boulevard du
+Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.
+Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid
+Ladies' Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue
+Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.
+
+Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the
+office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold.
+
+_Cab Fares._--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1 fr.; the hour, 2
+frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2frs.; the hour, 3 frs.
+Portmanteaus, fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for
+Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and
+St. Honorat, 1 and 2frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Saturdays
+trips to Theoule, 2frs.
+
+[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM.]
+
+Cannes extends 4 m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and
+partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and
+gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it
+extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills,
+and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square,
+called the Alls de la Libert, is nearly in the centre of the town, at
+the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110
+wide. It contains the Htel de Ville and the H.Splendide. Between them
+is a marble statue, life-size, "ALord Brougham, n Edinburgh, le 19
+Septembre 1778. Dcd Cannes le 7 Mai 1868." He is in his official
+robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose.
+The Htel de Ville contains the Public Library and interesting
+collections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The
+obliging director gives every assistance in naming the plants, insects,
+and minerals. At the head of the Alles, and on the adjoining eminence,
+is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church of
+Notre-Dame-d'Esprance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In
+front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St.
+Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower
+commenced in 1080 by the Abbot AdalbertII., of the monastery of St.
+Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower
+is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new
+cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The
+monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing
+the following inscription:-- "HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.
+Decessit MDCCCLXVIII." Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose,
+K.T., died December 1874.
+
+_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nooks
+sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on
+leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The
+mean winter temperature is 47 Fahr. The average number of rainy days in
+the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice.
+"The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its
+equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties of
+the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic
+temperaments." --Madden's _Resorts_. "While Cannes, therefore, possesses
+a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many
+classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating
+atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those
+suffering from affections of the respiratory organs." --_Dr. Hassall._
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES.]
+
+_Drives._--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in
+carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their
+destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Alles de la
+Libert), or from the Rue d'Antibes, near the Cours. The largest livery
+stables are in the Rue d'Antibes. They charge for a carriage, with
+coachman and two horses, per month 30. The cabmen carry their tariffs
+with them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the
+"Tarif des Voitures" are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on the
+Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of
+3frs. for a 25 frs. fare.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS.]
+
+THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.
+
+The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe de
+Jouan, 4m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2m. N., and 250 ft.
+above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5m. S.W. by the
+Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one
+horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1fr. By taking
+the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walk
+along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below
+Massier's pottery, and ascend the broad road. About m. from the bridge
+is the "Observatoire de la Corniche," where tea and coffee can be had,
+and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera.
+About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S.W.
+end of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden.
+
+The Belvdre, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545
+ft. above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours,
+1fr. each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which
+supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, by
+which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotel
+on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal commences near the
+source of the Siagne, afew miles from St. Cesaire.
+
+From the Belvdre an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still higher
+summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvdre. The view
+is similar, including more of the interior. Ashort distance N.E. from
+this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which from the top looks
+as if it were nearly over Antibes.
+
+Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from
+Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de
+Jouan station is C.Massier's pottery, and a few yards along the road
+towards Antibes is Napoleon's column (p.169).
+
+[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES.]
+
++Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafs and
+restaurants. The omnibus stops in the "Place" opposite the church and
+the Htel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an
+inscription, stating that "the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it
+refers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority." Also a column,
+4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to
+Constantine.
+ Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery,
+ "Potteries Rfractaires," earthenware utensils, principally of the
+ "marmite" or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without
+ cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2frs. To
+ this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic
+ pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in
+ the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the
+ clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards
+ from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene
+ period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the
+ road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up
+ road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The
+ entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into
+ them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in
+ various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common
+ articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from
+ Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic
+ pottery.
+
+
++Vallauris to Antibes.+
+
+ The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to
+ Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo
+ pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come
+ to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The
+ road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a
+ bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans
+ to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp.154 and 169.)
+
+
+CANNET.
+
+Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncire, is
++Cannet+, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H.
+*Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. Alittle to the east of the church Ste.
+Philomne is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs.
+Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the
+accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of
+those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church
+is the "Place," commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab to
+Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9frs.
+
+[Headnote: LA CROISETTE.]
+
+Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by the
+beautiful road 2m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1
+fr., or 2 frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2frs. Tram, 6 sous.
+Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive
+by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the
+entrance to the orange orchard "Des Hesperides," occupying 4 acres. The
+trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they
+were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost
+about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are
+those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process,
+and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there
+is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications
+begun by Richelieu, but never completed.
+
+ _Cannes to the Cap d'Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats,
+ 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs.
+ Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts
+ from the Alles de la Libert, and in Antibes from the "Place," fare
+ 1 fr. Very near this "Place" are two comfortable inns, the H.
+ Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d'Or; pension 7 to 8frs. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a
+ little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also
+ built the fortress Fort Carr, near the northern side of the entrance.
+ From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the
+ pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the
+ fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St.
+ Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In
+ the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in
+ winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them
+ stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other
+ forms part of an adjoining building, the "Bureau du Recrutement."
+
+ [Map: Cannes & Environs]
+
+[Headnote: CAP D'ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE.]
+
+ The +Cap d'Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To
+ visit the "Cap" from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the
+ Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take
+ the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts.
+ Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a "Via
+ Crucis," bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group
+ representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D.
+ d'Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the
+ oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the
+ lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the sea. The
+ building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a
+ fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one
+ person, fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the
+ road to the Villa Thuret and to the Htel du Cap, afirst-class house,
+ 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are
+ now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical
+ trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into
+ France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For
+ Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on a rock to the W.,
+ overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.
+
+[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE.]
+
+ +Drives to the west of the Htel de Ville.+--_La Croix des Gardes_,
+ 2 m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from
+ the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises
+ from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the
+ side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the
+ _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is
+ distilled.
+
+ _Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.;
+ with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour's rest allowed. By omnibus,
+ 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds
+ with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c.; which, as it does not return till
+ 4.30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2m. W.The
+ Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the
+ English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little Scotch church, behind
+ which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is
+ Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. Ashort distance
+ beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Elonore-Louise,
+ where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the
+ garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the
+ side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with
+ pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor
+ little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is
+ held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in
+ Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the
+ side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From
+ it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs,
+ leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at
+ the foot of the Estrel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better
+ than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the
+ railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the
+ mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas.
+
+[Headnote: ESTREL. PGOMAS.]
+
+ _Cannes to the Inn of Estrel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.
+ Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18
+ frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca
+ and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right
+ or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265
+ ft., a little to the east of the flat peak La Gate, 1663 ft.
+ Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft.
+ above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road
+ amidst picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estrel. The
+ inn is situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan
+ Pinet, 876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft.
+ above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near
+ the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about
+ 1 m. west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost
+ immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point
+ also.
+
+ 7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the
+ Siagne, passing the Htel Garibondy, is the village of +Pgomas+, pop.
+ 1350, on the Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden
+ among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but
+ difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or
+ 16 frs.; 1 hour's rest.
+
+ About 3 m. N.W. is +Auribeau+, pop. 480, prettily situated on the
+ Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours' rest.
+
+[Headnote: MOUGINS. CASTELARAS.]
+
+ 4 m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is +Mougins+,
+ pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, passing by the cemetery and
+ traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no
+ farther than Les Baraques, about m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab
+ there and back, one horse, 12 frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour's
+ rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one
+ gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of
+ the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower,
+ ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful view. To the west is La Roquette,
+ N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and
+ on the border of the Estrels, is the village of Mandelieu.
+
+ 4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by
+ the new road, is +Castelaras+, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a
+ villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view
+ of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to
+ the north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau,
+ and the Estrel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to
+ the south. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take
+ the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the
+ steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse
+ and tower are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The
+ column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse
+ in 1883.
+
+ _Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer
+ makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste.
+ Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the
+ steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.
+
+
+ILES DE LERINS.
+
+The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4 m. in circumference and 1m. from the
+mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at Point
+Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, containing the
+apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the far more
+interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was closely
+guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the only
+communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into the
+house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a road,
+bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the pine
+plantation to the other side of the island.
+
+[Headnote: THE MAN OF THE IRON MASK.]
+
+The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli,
+aBolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the
+13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti,
+by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has long
+since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in the
+University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service of
+CharlesIII., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made Secretary of
+State. The successor of CharlesIII., Ferdinand Charles IV., the last
+sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, created Matthioli
+supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the title of Count.
+Towards the end of 1677 the Abb d'Estrades, ambassador from France to
+the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was well aware
+would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his master,
+Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand Charles
+to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale,
+astrongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The
+cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus,
+Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont,
+while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and
+fertile plains of Milan.
+
+The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the
+prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication
+between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the
+person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke's confidence and favour, and
+was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the
+schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French
+court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., who at the same
+time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly after
+Matthioli's return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over by the
+Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so
+exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abb
+Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards.
+ For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond
+ Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abb,
+ accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach
+ of international law required the adoption of extraordinary
+ precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang,
+ he was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled
+ armed attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made
+ any attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself.
+
+ By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in
+ prison, till orders came from Paris, stating-- "It is not the
+ intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well
+ treated, nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life,
+ nor anything to make his time pass agreeably." He was handed over to
+ the charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence
+ in 1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars
+ removed his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste.
+ Marguerite, where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of
+ twelve days.
+
+ Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years'
+ sojourn on the island are:--On one occasion he is alleged to have
+ written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the
+ window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, on
+ finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion
+ Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing,
+ which he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk,
+ who, when he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not
+ read it. Two days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of
+ these stories is to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the
+ Minister, dated 4th June 1692, in which he informs him that he has
+ been obliged to inflict corporeal punishment upon a Protestant
+ clergyman named Salves, also in his keeping, because he would write
+ things on his pewter vessels and linen, to make known that he was
+ imprisoned unjustly on account of the purity of his faith.
+
+ In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place
+ St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September
+ 1698.
+
+ On the 19th November 1703, about 10 P.M., Matthioli died in the
+ Bastile, after a few hours' illness, and was buried next day at 4 P.M.
+ in the cemetery of St. Paul.--Extracted from the _History of the
+ Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport.
+
+[Headnote: THE ISLAND OF ST. HONORAT. ABBEY. MASSACRE.]
+
+ The Island of St. Honorat contains 97 acres, or is the size of Ste.
+ Marguerite, from which it is 750 yards distant. Apleasant road of
+ 2 m., shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight from
+ the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only
+ since 1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410.
+ In 730 and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the
+ establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again
+ flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume
+ Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the
+ tower on the island, and in 1080 the Abb AdalbertII. commenced the
+ castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the
+ fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on
+ account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and
+ buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of
+ Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, acolony of
+ Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay
+ brethren.
+
+ "What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what
+ Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany
+ and southern Italy, +St. Honorat+ was to the church of southern Gaul.
+ For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district
+ between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of
+ Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the
+ barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhne and of the
+ Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as
+ Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the
+ more illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had
+ been reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary,
+ Csarius, and Virgilius.
+
+ "The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the
+ massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on
+ the little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister.
+
+ "With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing
+ in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent." --J.R.
+ Green's _Stray Studies_.
+
+[Headnote: CASTLE.]
+
+ The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall
+ rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting
+ cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a
+ large hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and
+ by others a bakery, but most likely a "parloir" or reception-room. In
+ the wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the
+ ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took
+ possession of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown
+ by the concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong
+ cloister, in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor
+ of the first is supported on short columns standing round the edge of
+ a cistern. From this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and
+ refectory. From the upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel,
+ which opened into the library. Above the library was the infirmary, of
+ which not a vestige remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors
+ are next taken to the convent. The church and buildings are modern,
+ excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend much
+ time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last steamer,
+ and have consequently little time to spare.
+
+[Headnote: CHAPEL OF THE TRINITY.]
+
+ By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th
+ cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the
+ wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of
+ St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At
+ the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel
+ of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large
+ gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St.
+ Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a
+ stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught
+ different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to
+ their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is
+ the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *+Trinity+, 35
+ ft. long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great
+ corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are
+ the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why
+ in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in
+ edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three
+ arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of
+ the three apsidal chapels are semispherical.
+
+[Headnote: PLAIN OF NAPOLEON.]
+
+ +Cannes to Grasse+, 12 m. N. by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G.
+ H. International, 9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le
+ Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their
+ omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the
+ stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the
+ other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious
+ water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change
+ from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow,
+ crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the
+ southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly
+ 695 ft. above the town. To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrire,
+ 2920 ft. above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of
+ Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On
+ the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite
+ views. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of
+ Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot
+ of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the
+ face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a
+ cavern or "foux," whence, after heavy rains, alarge body of water
+ issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down
+ into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther
+ inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from
+ the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, ahospice for
+ the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of
+ St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses,
+ built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this
+ way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours,
+ is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, in which
+ are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens--the
+ Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The
+ concierge uncovers them. [Headnote: JEAN FRAGONARD.] Immediately
+ below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house
+ of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean
+ Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are
+ five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing
+ frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue
+ des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some
+ decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are
+ shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church,
+ built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It
+ contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of
+ Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the
+ east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining
+ is the Htel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of
+ the 11th cent.
+
+ A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal
+ square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the
+ sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the
+ Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.
+
+
+PERFUMERY.
+
+ The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and
+ the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces
+ resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are
+ the Otto of Roses and the Nroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of
+ rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15 grains troy of the Otto
+ of Roses, which costs from 2 to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2 lbs. troy
+ of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Nroly, which
+ costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Nroly, the Nroly Bigarrade,
+ is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used
+ principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it
+ constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is
+ that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Nroly
+ forms the orange-water of the cafs. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is
+ superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs
+ are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of
+ glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the
+ other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a
+ layer of lard 1/3 of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs
+ completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are
+ renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is
+ repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles
+ are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (akind
+ of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted
+ in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which,
+ combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then
+ filtered. This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals
+ require the hot methods, either by the still or by the "bain-marie."
+ The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most
+ vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat.
+ Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging
+ a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is
+ melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or
+ 24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The
+ operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required
+ strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose
+ used.
+
+ At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of
+ *Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved
+ fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallis) state, in the
+ glazed-sugar (glac) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams
+ and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the
+ perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be
+ made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of
+ Warwick and Co., and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frres, both of
+ whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material.
+
+[Headnote: ST. CESAIRE. CANNES CANAL. CALLIAN.]
+
+ _Grasse to St. Cesaire._--9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there
+ and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1 fr. Time, 2 hours. This little
+ village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560
+ feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a
+ large elm in the "Place" is a plain but clean inn, the Htel de la
+ Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in
+ the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end
+ of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence
+ there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on
+ its eastern side. The path to the cave "Grotto de la Foux" goes by the
+ upper side of this canal, and requires 1 hour's easy walking. The
+ commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour's walk farther
+ up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave
+ with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of
+ Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or "foux," at the base of a calcareous
+ cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The
+ Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31m. long, exposed to
+ animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course.
+ Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which
+ conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p.146, and map, p.117)
+ by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks,
+ through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 wide, and 82 high,
+ in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman
+ engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from
+ Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a bridle-path,
+ _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel
+ is about 9 m. distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1m. from
+ Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft., supplied
+ with water by the Roman aqueduct.
+
+ [Map: The Durance, the Var, the Col di Tenda, San Remo]
+
+ Nearly 2 hours' walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and situated
+ at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of +Mons+. Those
+ who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor
+ striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of
+ the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the
+ mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return
+ from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive
+ back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the
+ best flavoured of the Riviera.
+
+
++Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.+
+
+ +Grasse+ to the railway station of +Cagnes+ by the +Pont du Loup+ and
+ +Vence+, 21m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This
+ drive is generally taken in two parts--Grasse to the Pont du Loup;
+ then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes.
+
+[Headnote: PONT DU LOUP. TOURETTE.]
+
+ _Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7m. N.E. Carriage with two
+ horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1fr.
+ Distance, 5 m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2m. up the
+ valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the
+ Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2 hours of fatiguing walking up the
+ ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup,
+ which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole
+ way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on
+ the same level (1090 ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at
+ every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its
+ little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long
+ narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a
+ rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du
+ Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church
+ of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the
+ Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit
+ the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the
+ gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return
+ to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see
+ p.169), 13m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive from Grasse
+ to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very
+ same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15m.
+ eastward. Fare, 2frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the
+ "Imperial." Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway
+ station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6m.
+ The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the
+ Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at
+ the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the
+ omnibus halts.
+
+[Headnote: VENCE.]
+
+ +Vence+, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or, pension
+ 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains
+ clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and
+ in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of
+ its old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.)
+ next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the
+ Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in
+ the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which
+ there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly
+ mutilated.
+
+ The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that
+ of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long,
+ 68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with
+ massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each
+ side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof
+ waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is
+ in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by
+ the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and
+ beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, alarge piece of
+ the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman
+ temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other
+ over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the
+ temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured
+ stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the
+ tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin
+ inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which
+ the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was
+ under the nave. The present "Place" behind the chancel was the public
+ cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab
+ bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone
+ sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked
+ into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in
+ the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th
+ cent.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR.]
+
+ To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs,
+ extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea.
+ The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the
+ +Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the
+ remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the
+ ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is
+ by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of
+ wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the
+ Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the
+ Cagnes, a "foux," an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large
+ basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3m. from Vence.
+ The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most
+ easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines
+ of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still
+ sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and
+ sixth years, when it costs 1 to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is
+ famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between
+ furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d.
+ the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8lbs. 13 oz.) in a day,
+ for which she is paid at the rate of 2d. the kilo.
+
+[Headnote: CAGNES.]
+
+ The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole
+ way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with
+ part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop.
+ 1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes.
+ _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real
+ town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle
+ built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner
+ at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling
+ of the Salle Dore, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also
+ added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are
+ the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The
+ chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not
+ equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see
+ p. 169.)
+
+
+ST. VALLIER.
+
+ +Grasse to Digne+, 63 m. north.--By the courrier 16 frs., changing
+ coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2 frs., Escragnolles
+ 4 frs., Castellane 8 frs., Barrme 11 frs., and Digne 16 frs. By
+ private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day
+ at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day
+ breakfasting at Barrme, and then driving down to Digne (see map,
+ p. 165).
+
+ The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and
+ rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier
+ (2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6m. distant,
+ population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand
+ views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estrel and the Tanneron mountains.
+ The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the
+ "Place," near the column with a marble bust of NapoleonI., indicating
+ the spot where he reposed "2 Mars 1815." The Htel du Nord is about
+ 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per
+ day from 8 to 9frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the
+ Ponte--Dieu, as far as it can go, 3 m., costs 5frs. The remainder
+ can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St.
+ Vallier, and towards the Pont--Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont--Dieu
+ is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge,
+ like the "Pont" across the Ardche.
+
+ From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep
+ sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles,
+ a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside
+ inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated
+ 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18m. north from Grasse.
+ A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley,
+ one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from
+ Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded
+ mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.
+
+[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE.]
+
+ 19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37 from Grasse, is +Castellane+,
+ 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. Avillage
+ of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A
+ narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel
+ of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect.
+ Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the
+ river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here.
+ A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not
+ very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather.
+ 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie
+ (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches
+ the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to
+ +Taulanne+, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends
+ 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620,
+ among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the
+ river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during
+ 1130 to 1242.
+
+[Headnote: BARRME. DIGNE.]
+
+ 44 m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18 m. S. from Digne, is +Barrme+, pop.
+ 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is
+ taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in
+ dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline
+ spring. The road from Barrme to Digne descends by a ridge between the
+ valleys of the Asse and the Clumane.
+
+ +Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14m. E. by loop-line from
+ the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80m. N. from
+ Marseilles, 62m. N. from Aix, and 20 m. N. from Manosque. It is
+ 109m. S. from Grenoble; 45 m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the
+ road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to
+ Gap; and 31 m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons
+ (see map of Rhne and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the
+ Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655),
+ one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient
+ Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly
+ ground rising from the Blonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest
+ part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the
+ seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent.,
+ numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1m. up the
+ Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs,
+ temp. 115 Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism.
+ Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March
+ 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of
+ the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and
+ both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p.165).
+
+[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS.]
+
+ Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is
+ to +Riez+, 26m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4 hrs., agreat diligence
+ centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St.
+ Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque,
+ 22m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8m.; and to Groulx (see
+ p.167), 12m. S.W. from Riez, and 9 m. E. from Manosque, fare
+ 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p.167), 9m.E., by
+ Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18m. S., by Quinson.
+ Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian,
+ H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9m. E., _Inn:_ H. du
+ Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to
+ Barjols, _Inn:_ H.Pont d'Or, 9 m. S., whence other coaches run to
+ Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7m. W., whence to Volx
+ railway station, other 7m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25m. N.,
+ by Puymoisson, 3m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11m.; Mezl on
+ the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15 m.; and Chteauredon, 7m. S. from
+ Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other
+ times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are
+ olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and
+ cherries (see map, p. 165).
+
+ Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly
+ surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the
+ towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through
+ either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed
+ windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other
+ side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally,
+ enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns,
+ bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is
+ about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4
+ composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is
+ the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is
+ 17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel
+ are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At
+ the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of
+ the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent
+ view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.
+
+[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE.]
+
+ A very pleasant drive of 9 m. E., fare 2frs., is to the curious
+ village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and
+ returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronn. The village consists of
+ poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes,
+ at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the
+ height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these
+ precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt
+ iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the "Via
+ Crucis," is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the
+ chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the
+ parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a
+ square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez
+ is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18m. E. from Moustiers is
+ Castellane, but no public coach runs between them.
+
+[Headnote: BATHS OF GROULX.]
+
+ 12 m. W. from Riez, and 9 m. E. from Manosque, is +Groulx+, pop.
+ 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are
+ the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than
+ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The
+ rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast
+ and dinner, 7 frs. Service, fr. Or the lowest price per day,
+ 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and
+ furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is
+ 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most
+ abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt
+ new milk. Temp. 95 to 100 Fahr. The principal ingredient is the
+ chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia,
+ the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is
+ also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along
+ with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when
+ the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is
+ used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are
+ partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of
+ water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Groulx to
+ Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165).
+
+[Headnote: MANOSQUE.]
+
+ +Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble,
+ 22m. north from Pertuis, 41 m. from Aix, 48m. from Gardanne, and
+ 59m. from Marseilles. 4 m. south from Volx, 20 m. from St. Auban,
+ 31m. from Sisteron, 61 m. from Veynes, 66m. from Aspres, and
+ 130 m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhne and Savoy).
+
+ _Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the
+ surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste.
+ Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the
+ Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive
+ trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the
+ eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering
+ the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and
+ badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily
+ recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the
+ main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the faade are
+ circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each
+ side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel
+ is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably
+ lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the
+ faade leads to the principal "Place," where there is a fountain, and
+ whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre
+ Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in
+ the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble
+ sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles,
+ and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and
+ child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Htel de Ville is a
+ silver bust by Puget of Grard Jung, the founder of the order of the
+ Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the
+ stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of
+ gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22m. E.; to the
+ baths of Groulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m.
+ W., by Reillane 15m., and Creste 20 m. W. +Volx+ station is the
+ intended terminus of the rail from Apt.
+
+
+[Headnote: VALLAURIS.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{124}{31}
++GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station is
+a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his
+arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. Avery pleasant road, lined with
+villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are
+pottery showrooms.
+
+
+[Headnote: ANTIBES.]
+
+{127}{28}
++ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d'Or. Afortified
+port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers,
+without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable
+houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their
+valour. Those wishing a bird's-eye view of the town should ascend the
+tower beside the church. The bellman's house is close by. The wine of
+Antibes is of superior quality (see p.154). From Antibes station
+omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.
+
+
+{132}{23}
++VENCE-CAGNES.+ At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes,
+pop. 3000, about 1mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and
+contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the
+same road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several
+interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for
+perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the
+terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice
+runs a diligence (see p.165).
+
+
+{136}{19}
++VAR.+ This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the
+eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. m. N.W. from
+the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or
+ppinires, extensive, but not well kept. About 2m. N.E. from the
+station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The
+first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by
+the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments.
+
+At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in
+January.
+
+
+NICE
+
+is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95 m. N.E. from Toulon, 95m. N.E.
+from Hyres, 39m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19m. N.E. from Cannes.
+It is 9m. W. from Monaco, 15m. S.W. from Menton, 23 m. S.W. from
+Bordighera, and 30m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf).
+Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon,
+mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the
+order of east to west. The Htel des Anglais, with one side to the
+"Jardin Public." Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Mditerrane; and
+opposite it, projecting into the sea, acasino. On the other side of the
+cercle is the H.Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18
+frs.; the H. Mditerrane, H.Westminster, and the H.West End, all
+first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day.
+
+The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have
+considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the
+sea so much. The H. de l'Elyse, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11
+frs., No. 77; the H.Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du
+Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the
+Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des
+Pouchettes, the *H. et P.Suisse, 8 to 12 frs.
+
+Around the "Jardin Public" are the first-class houses, the Angleterre
+and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in the
+Place Massena are the best cafs and restaurants, large cab-stands, and
+the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is the
+Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the
+hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden
+in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10
+to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly by
+French, the H.Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.
+
+On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and
+pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the
+railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meubls, Deux
+Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs
+with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10
+to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R.Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At
+the top of the R. de la Gare, the H.National, 9 to 12 frs., and the
+Hotel des Alpes.
+
+In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H.Iles
+Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and
+some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of
+the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp,
+near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the
+H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H.Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near
+the Splendide is the P.Java, 9 to 11 frs.
+
+ [Map: Nice]
+
+Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et P. de
+Genve. Next the Russian Church is the P.Helvtique. Near it the
+H.Royal; the H. et P.Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St.
+Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.
+
+At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it
+the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens.
+
+Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the
+H. et P.Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.
+
+From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the
+Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the
+Theatre Franais. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the
+H. Ngociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B.Dubouchage are the
+first-class houses--the H.Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the
+Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d'Orient. The large building in
+the B.Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal
+Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H.Central and the G. H. *Rubion.
+
+The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B.Dubouchage, and
+about the B.Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun
+themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the
+Carabacel end of the B.Dubouchage are the first-class houses--the
+H.Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence
+in a garden off the B.Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the
+B.Carabacel, the H.Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with
+furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church,
+and near it the Htel Carabacel.
+
+On the way up to Cimis, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimis Hill, near the
+Convent of St. Barthlemy, is the H. et P. *Barthlemy, on the road to
+the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimis Hill, on
+opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P.Cimis, and the
+Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about
+2m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Massena
+has its terminus near the P.Barthlemy. The H.Cimis has its own
+omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the
+P.Anglaise.
+
+In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and
+its continuation the R.Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate
+prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, in
+garden, the P.Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At
+No. 121 is the H. de l'Elyse, with front to the Promenade des Anglais.
+At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; and opposite, the H. du
+Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the
+P.Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. Andr, 8frs.
+In the Place Massena the H. et R.Helder, 18 frs. For commercial
+gentlemen the best is the H. des trangers, R.Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.
+
+Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the
+private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings.
+In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where
+they can arrange at the prices given:--H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11
+frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H.
+des Alpes and the H.National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P.
+de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P.
+*Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais
+the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. Andr,
+8frs., including everything. In the R.Gioffredo the H. and
+R.Montesquieu, 8 to 9frs.
+
+[Headnote: CAFS. BANKS.]
+
+_Cafs._--The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._--The *London
+House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Franaise, 3 Av. de la Gare,
+and at No. 11 Rest. d'Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._--The Cercle de la
+Mditerrane in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean.
+
+_Banks._--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds
+of banking business and money changing is the "Credit Lyonnais," 15
+Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena;
+Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.
+
+_House Agents._--John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C.Jougla,
+55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple.
+
+_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. Franois de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi.
+Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time,
+the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice
+time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000
+volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P.M. It contains a few
+antiquities, some Roman milestones, acollection of medals, and a bust
+of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place
+Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.
+
+ _Booksellers._--Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied
+ reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du
+ Cours. Cook's office adjoins Galignani's. Gaze's is at No. 13, and
+ Caygill's No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.
+
+ _Druggists._--Of these there are excellent English establishments in
+ the principal streets.
+
+_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._--Of the confections the _specialit_
+of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing
+100 grammes, or 3 oz., for 5frs. the box. The most expensive of the
+glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2lbs. 3 oz.),
+strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8frs. All the
+others cost either 5 or 6frs. the kilo. The best shops are-- *Catan
+Fa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and
+*Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel's garden and perfume distillery
+are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon.
+
+[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
+
+_Churches._--Temple vanglique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian
+Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp;
+German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity
+Church, Rue de France; St. Michael's, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel
+Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church,
+in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.
+
+Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.
+
+_Coach hire._--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per
+month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where
+carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month.
+
+_Cabs._--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and
+seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1fr. The hour, seat for 2,
+2 frs.; seats for 4, 3frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1 fr.; the
+hour, 3 frs.
+
+To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1fr.; with seats for 4, 1
+fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c.,
+and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to
+engage the cab by the hour.
+
+All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena.
+
+[Headnote: CONTES.]
+
+_Diligences._--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start
+daily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m.
+N. from Nice. Fare 6frs., time 10 hrs. (see p.180). Coach to
+Puget-Thniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42m. N.W. from Nice. Fare
+2 frs., time 9 hrs. (see p.182). To St. Sauveur, 40m. N. (p.182).
+Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low
+Corniche road. From the office, Place St. Franois, start:--Coach to
+Cuneo, 80m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs.,
+time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51m. N.
+from Nice. Fare 9frs., time 11 hrs. (see p.182). From Htel Chapeau
+Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea,
+and 15m. N. from Nice. Fare 3frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d'Or,
+Rue de l'Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1 fr., time 2 hrs., 10m. N.
+up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of
+Trinit--Victor, 5m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the
+Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2 hrs. distant by a path, the
+ruins of the village Chteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of
+water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange
+trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats
+to Trinit-Victor and back, 5frs.; hour's rest allowed.
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
+
+_Climate._--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and
+Cannes with respect to climate, Ishould be inclined to call Nice a
+trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the
+mountains. M.Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty
+years' meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed
+outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His
+mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake
+of comparison, Iappend the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:--
+
+ MEAN TEMPERATURE.
+
+ Nice. Cannes.
+ November 53.8 52.6
+ December 48.5 46.3
+ January 47.1 48
+ February 46.2 48.8
+ March 51.8 51
+ April 58.1 55.5
+
+The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.--_Health
+Resorts_, by M.Marcet, M.D.
+
+[Headnote: VALLONS.]
+
+Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime
+Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish
+conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these
+ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides,
+scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the
+breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the
+stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great
+vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan
+exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram
+stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from
+the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly
+perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the
+Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the
+more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which
+high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to
+be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the
+more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance
+are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made.
+The Mantga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantga (see plan), has
+great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is
+quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed
+with lime, makes excellent mortar.
+
+The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new or
+fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing
+avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with
+large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and
+"pensions;" 2d, the Old Town, aperfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty,
+steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and
+running up the sides of the Chteau hill, which separates it from, 3d,
+the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour.
+
+During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city,
+with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In
+winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it
+is only about 54,000, adiminution in numbers apparent only in the
+largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating
+population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled
+together between the Paillon and the Chteau hill.
+
+[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY.]
+
+The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English
+in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful
+terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2m. along the beach of the Baie
+des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan,
+whence it will be continued other 3m. west to the mouth of the river
+Var, near the Racecourse.
+
+Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the
+platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the
+peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort
+Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings.
+To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the
+distance the Roche-Blanche (p.164), the peninsula of Antibes, and the
+Estrels. This fortress, founded by the early Phoenician colonists, and
+destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed
+to the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV., by Marchal Berwick. Now
+it has become the great park of Nice. Around tower that still remains,
+over the Htel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added
+to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill
+(see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the
+monument to the "Victimes de l'Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881."
+Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th
+March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. In
+the highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. In
+a terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery.
+
+[Headnote: CATERINA SEGURANA. MEMORIAL CHAPEL.]
+
+Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King
+Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane
+to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent.
+On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked
+the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by Franois de Bourbon
+and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the
+standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was
+born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port
+before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue
+Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in
+1510. At the east end of the R. de la Prfecture, last street left, No.
+15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in
+fresco by Carlone. It is now the "cole Professionnelle." This is also
+the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died
+(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Prfecture. The jambs and lintels of
+the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches
+in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and
+variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de
+la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in
+Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too
+small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost
+of 6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne,
+in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, aseries of
+ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which
+the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior is
+covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue
+ground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes
+of saints in niches.
+
+The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the
+handsome broad street the "Avenue de la Gare," extending in a straight
+line northward from the "Place" to the station. Next in importance are
+the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best
+shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind
+the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision
+kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, and
+dressmakers. At the east end of the +Rue de France+ is the Croix de
+Marbre, amarble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected
+in 1568 to commemorate the visit of CharlesV., FrancisI., and
+PaulIII. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentates
+through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemorates
+the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near this is
+Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple vanglique, the
+second Protestant church built in Nice.
+
+[Headnote: ANDR MASSENA.]
+
+On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the
+large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty
+public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in
+an animated posture, of Andr Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of
+France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which
+stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon
+to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned "to
+drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea." But the wary
+strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved
+resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a
+masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the
+chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but
+it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the
+river, called the "Jardin Public," planted with magnolias, acacias,
+Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays
+here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on
+the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the
+summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery.
+
+[Headnote: CIMIS.]
+
+All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare
+lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice,
+and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2m.
+distant, or 3from the Place Massena, is Cimis (430 ft. above the sea),
+another favoured spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids
+requiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman
+city Cemenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of an
+amphitheatre 210 ft. long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince
+de Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered in
+this neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superb
+villa Val Rose, which in shape resembles Noe's ark. Entrance from behind
+G.H. Windsor. The first road right from the theatre leads to a
+Franciscan convent built in 1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. The
+altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were painted
+by Ludovico Brea, acontemporary of Raphael, and the only artist of
+eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some beautiful
+tombstones. In the centre of the "Place," on a spiral marble column, is
+a crucifix with a winged J.C. Above is a pelican feeding its young,
+afavourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages.
+
+A path in the corner of the "Place" leads down to St. Pons (p.179).
+
+At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first
+hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and
+separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in
+the market for food.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES.]
+
+The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20m. east, either by the
+high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing above
+Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises much above the
+coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An omnibus runs
+daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by this road (see
+p.187).
+
+Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5frs.; hour's
+rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7frs. Above the Pont Neuf,
+near the Place St. Franois, omnibuses (without fixed time) start for
+Villefranche, fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. On
+feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St.
+Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H.Victoria, where
+bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8 frs. And at Beaulieu, close
+to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9 to 12 frs.
+Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the
+omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. Acarriage with 2
+horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt
+Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a
+coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1 hour.
+
+[Headnote: VAL-OBSCUR.]
+
++Nice to the Val-Obscur+, 4 m. N.--Take tram from the Place Massena to
+St. Maurice, 2m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa
+Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by
+the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the
+left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the
+water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but
+as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the
+conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards
+long, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high,
+and 7 ft. apart at their narrowest point. By continuing this path for a
+little distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing over
+by a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a
+road ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft.
+above the sea, or only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve.
+
+The +Vallon des Fleurs+ ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive
+trees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the
+valley is about 10 minutes' walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the
+tram. Apath leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads
+round by the head of other two vallons to the Cimis road, which it
+joins nearly opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the
+valley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For
+Cimis, see p.177.)
+
+[Headnote: VILLA CLERY. ST. PONS. GROTTE ST. ANDRE.]
+
+A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. Andr, about 3m.
+N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. Andr.
+Acab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5frs.; with 2 horses
+and 4 seats, 7frs.; hour's stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But
+if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. When about 1m. up
+the Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard of
+the Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yet
+in the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. The
+oranges are sold at from 4 to 6frs. the 100, and packed and despatched
+to order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the more
+beautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the
+hill (430 ft.), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery of
+Cimis, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near the
+Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edifice
+passed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 by
+St. Syagrius, acontemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Roman
+senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor is said to have
+spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it was
+destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, Bishop of
+Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was annexed to
+the house of Savoy. Ashort distance beyond, at the part where the
+stream St. Andr unites with the Paillon, 3m. from the Place Massena,
+is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4frs. per day,
+second 3frs. Alittle higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660,
+and (on a hill) the chteau of St. Andr. The chteau is a plain house
+with a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by the
+brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school and
+part is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is a
+small petrifying spring. From the chteau an avenue of ill-conditioned
+cypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. Andr.
+Fee, fr. each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high,
+through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. Andr,
+dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through it
+in a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are
+sold.
+
+From the "Grotte" up to the 8th kilomtre stone the ravine becomes so
+narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road
+and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit
+the cave should walk up this distance, 1mile, before returning. Those
+in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, avillage
+perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. Andr.
+
+_To the Observatory_, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the
+expense of M.Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of the
+Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend by
+the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a house,
+ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The
+establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the
+various buildings for astronomical purposes. Afew yards below, on the
+west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and 46
+broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end
+dwelling-houses.
+
+
+[Headnote: LEVENS. LANTOSQUE. ST. MARTIN LANTOSQUE. COL DI FINESTRA.]
+
++Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.+
+
+ (Map, page 165, and Map of Rhne and Savoy.)
+
+_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque._--Diligence from Nice to St.
+Martin, 37m. N.From St. Martin to Entraque, on the north side of the
+Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal to 25m. From Entraque
+to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, 24m. N. by coach.
+
+ The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon,
+ and after passing the villages of St. Andr (p.179) and Tourette,
+ near the ruins of Chteauneuf, arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. above the
+ sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. des trangers, where the coach halts a short
+ time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and then descends
+ into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, where it passes
+ through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, pop. 1500. Then,
+ after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed the Vesubie, and
+ passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25m. from Nice, it reaches
+ the village of Lantosque, 28 m. from Nice, 1640 ft. above the sea,
+ pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. des Alpes Maritimes. On a plateau 765 ft. above
+ Lantosque, and 1 m. distant, is La Bollne, with a large hotel,
+ charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. The
+ coach next halts at Roquebillre, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3m.
+ from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above the sea. It is the
+ station for the village of Belvdre, pop. 1250, with a comfortable
+ hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillre. From Roquebillre the
+ coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the villages of
+ Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to +St. Martin Lantosque+,
+ 37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above the sea. An ancient
+ village at the junction of the Vesubie with the Salses. In the
+ "Place" where the diligence stops is a very good inn, the H. des
+ Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, 6frs. Up by the
+ side of the promenade are some good pensions. On the opposite hill,
+ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is the village of
+ Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding
+ valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with chestnut
+ and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. Martin
+ commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie
+ and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a
+ fancied resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide
+ to Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1 m. up the Vesubie is the stone
+ which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6m. farther
+ the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. above the
+ sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable
+ _Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary.
+ Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in
+ about another hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft., is
+ attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France.
+ At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo.
+
+[Headnote: VALDIERI.]
+
+ A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about
+ 20 m. distant, time 7 to 8 hrs., by the Salses, which it follows all
+ the way to the Col de Moulires, 6890 ft. Afew miles farther
+ northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, adepression between
+ two mountains, 8745 ft. and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It
+ then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it
+ turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From
+ the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the
+ village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10m. N.
+ from the baths, and 7 m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the
+ picturesque valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through
+ the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at
+ the junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso.
+
+ A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta
+ road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it
+ ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows
+ the course of the Valletta to the baths. "The Baths of Valdieri make
+ excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In
+ every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be
+ found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, the
+ writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer
+ need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at
+ seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine
+ districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a
+ narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants,
+ several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The geology is also
+ interesting, and would probably repay further examination.
+ A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly-inclined and
+ much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire
+ series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts
+ overlaid by nummulitic deposits." --_The Western Alps_, by John
+ Ball.
+
+[Headnote: PUGET-THENIERS. SAINT SAUVEUR.]
+
+ _Nice to Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does
+ not become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the
+ junction of the Tine with the Var, where the horses are changed and
+ where the coach from St. Sauveur (18 m. N. from Chaudan) meets the
+ Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop.
+ 1450, 1476 ft. above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty
+ village on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of
+ bare precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes,
+ pop. 1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., _Inn:_ Gini. The roads beyond are
+ traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3m. W. from Puget.
+
+ The banks of the Tine are more picturesque than those of the Var. On
+ the Tine, 40 m. N. from Nice, is +Saint Sauveur+, pop. 800, _Inn:_
+ Vial, with Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating
+ from 1309. Hot and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock
+ called the Guez. From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by
+ the Tine to St. Etienne, where there is an inn. From St. Etienne,
+ pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col Valonet to Vinadio (see
+ map, p. 165).
+
+
+[Headnote: GIANDOLA. SAORGIO.]
+
++Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.+
+
+ Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51m., 11 hours, 9frs.; Tenda
+ to Cuneo, 29m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to Turin, by rail, 3 hours
+ (see maps, pp. 165 and 107). This is rather a fatiguing journey. The
+ most beautiful views are seen during the descent from Tenda to the
+ Mediterranean. +Nice.+--Start from the Place St. Franois. The road
+ ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the villages of
+ +Trinit-Victor+, pop. 1300, and +Drap+, pop. 800, with a sulphurous
+ spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and
+ crosses over to +Escarne+ on the Braus, 12m. N.E. from Nice, pop.
+ 1500. About 1 m. farther is +Touet+, pop. 400, whence commences the
+ tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tte Lavine
+ on the S. and Mt. Ventabren on the N. The road now descends to
+ +Sospel+, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roja,
+ 25m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach daily to and from Menton,
+ 14m. S. The road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence
+ passengers in this direction have their last view of the
+ Mediterranean. The descent is now made through bleak and barren
+ mountains to +Giandola+, 39 m. N.E. from Nice, 1247 ft., at the base
+ of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ trangers, Poste. Coach daily between
+ this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, are Breglio, pop. 2580,
+ and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The road now ascends a narrow
+ defile of the +Roja+, which, suddenly widening, discloses +Saorgio+,
+ pop. 1600, 400 ft. above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of
+ dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill is
+ the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. From this the
+ valley contracts so much that the road has repeatedly to cross and
+ re-cross the river on its way to Fontana on the Italian frontier,
+ 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. Luggage and passports are examined here.
+ Almost the only habitat of the curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is
+ between Fontana and Breglio. The road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5m.
+ N., passes through one of the most formidable defiles in the Alps, the
+ Gorge de Berghe, between steep massive walls of igneous rock. "The
+ bold forms of the cliffs, and the luxuriant vegetation which crowns
+ every height and fills every hollow, make the scenery of this road
+ worthy to compare with almost any other more famous Alpine pass."
+ --_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a hydropathic establishment, pension
+ 8 frs. Coach daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda.
+
+[Headnote: LIMONE. CUNEO.]
+
+ 51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12m. S. from
+ Limone, is the village of +Tenda+, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H.National; 2680
+ ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja
+ at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the
+ castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her
+ jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare
+ plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village
+ church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The
+ tunnel, opened in 1882--4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and
+ 4331 ft. at the Limone end--is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The
+ Tenda end of the tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the
+ Cuneo end at the hamlet La Panice. From La Panice the road descends
+ rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone+, 3668 ft., 63m. N.E. from Nice
+ and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste; pleasantly situated in
+ the valley of the Vermanagna, from which an occasional glimpse may be
+ had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, after passing Robillante,
+ Roccavione, and +Borgo-San-Dalmazzo+, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo,
+ 80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ Barra
+ di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the confluence of the Stura
+ with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is Turin.
+
+[Headnote: MONDOVI.]
+
+ The easiest way to go to +Turin+ from +Nice+ is to take the rail to
+ Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and
+ Cavallermaggior. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the Santuario
+ di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for poor devotees
+ (p.210). From Carru station, 50 m. N., abranch line extends 8m.S.
+ to +Mondovi+, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tr
+ Limoni d'Oro. From Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m.
+ S., in the valley of the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance,
+ 8 frs.; cave, 2 frs. each, shown from June to October. 12m. S.W.
+ from Mondovi, and about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the
+ +Certosa di Val Psio+, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a
+ hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September.
+ Pension, 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed, and well situated for
+ botanists, fishers, and sketchers.
+
+ At the station S.Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the
+ junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31m. N.,
+ traversing a picturesque country, between S.Giuseppe and Acqui, where
+ it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida.
+
+[Headnote: ACQUI.]
+
+ +Acqui+, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21m. S. by rail from
+ Alessandria. _Hotels:_ Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly
+ round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing
+ establishment, a large building with abundant accommodation. The
+ pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs., including the use of the
+ water, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in
+ mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120, and
+ were known to the Romans under the name of the Aqu Statiel, yet of
+ their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths
+ of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient remains
+ immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a
+ temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a
+ warm mineral water bath. "The therapeutic influence of this
+ application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements,
+ rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of
+ secondary syphilis, and rheumatism." --Dr. Madden's _Health
+ Resorts_.
+
+
+[Headnote: VILLEFRANCHE.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to MENTON
+
+{142}{12}
++VILLEFRANCHE+, pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux
+at Nice, also by rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine.
+Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St.
+John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of
+Cimis and Carabacel. 2m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow
+bay, 2m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche+,
+founded in the 13th cent. by CharlesII., King of Naples.
+ The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as
+ well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the
+ little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1fr. each person. From
+ Villefranche commences the splendid +Road to Monaco+, 8m. long and 18
+ ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most
+ enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the
+ precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1m. from Villefranche by
+ rail, or 1 by road, is
+
+ [Map: The Corniche Road: Nice to Menton]
+
+[Headnote: BEAULIEU. PORT OF ST. JEAN.]
+
+{143}{11}
++BEAULIEU+, famed for its large olive trees. Alittle above the station
+is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des Anglais among
+"countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by autumn's blast or
+wintry skies." Down towards the village is another old olive tree, not
+far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco road is the
+Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In the
+creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a beautiful
+place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of the Riviera,
+at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of reddish
+sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with trees,
+which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were transparent;
+while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggle
+as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind the olives,
+and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon trees,
+bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall shrubs
+hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeks
+and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges of
+marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, carpeted
+in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the Posidonia
+Caulini, aNaiad not an alga, which covers the shore of the
+Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up at
+various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree
+evaporation.
+
+A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads from
+Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the peninsula to
+the +Port of St. Jean+. The real carriage-road commences at the railway
+bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to
+St. Jean, alittle before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The
+continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse,
+passing the signal-tower to the right.
+
+The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used principally by the
+tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes a very pleasant
+residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated among creeks and
+bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part of
+the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula of St.
+Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed by
+the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry around
+belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the
+10th cent. "Afir-clad mound amid the savage wild bears on its brow a
+village, walled and isled in lone seclusion round its ancient tower. It
+was a post of Saracens, whose fate made them the masters for long years
+of lands remote and scattered o'er a hundred strands." --_Guido and
+Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a
+cemetery, achurch, 11th cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and
+a battery.
+
+[Headnote: LIGHTHOUSE.]
+
+At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse
+(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story
+added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is
+ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at
+a distance of 20m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the
+first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles
+Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb
+is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a
+grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large
+euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula.
+
+
+[Headnote: PETITE AFRIQUE. EZE.]
+
+EZE.
+
+The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and
+Eze, the next station, 2m. distant by road, but only 1 by rail. The
+steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so
+exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has
+been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt termination
+of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the sea, to
+which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to pass
+through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the equally
+picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d'Eze, backed by a phalanx of
+lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. high) of one
+of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearly
+deserted village of +Eze+, pop. 770, with the ruins of its castle
+founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored,
+built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Eze
+is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under the
+remains of a vaulted roof, acharming marine landscape displays itself,
+while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft.) of the Corniche
+road, which here crosses the ridge terminated by Mt. Roux. At the Pass
+are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near the
+station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, and
+throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations of
+firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing it
+leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road, and
+another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to Monaco. Alittle beyond
+Eze is the station for La Turbie.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONACO.]
+
+100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is
+
+{149}{6}
++MONACO+ station, situated in La Condamine. At the station (6) an
+omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco on the top of the S.W. promontory,
+195 ft. above the sea. For Monte Carlo, on the top of the N.E.
+promontory, alight at the next station, 1m. N.E.
+
++Monaco proper+, pop. 1200. Htel de la Paix, 7 frs., splendid view
+from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and
+Muratore. Till the arrival of F.Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor place,
+where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from the
+produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches of
+scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the
+gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality,
+wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished
+anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its
+stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with
+plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid
+hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been
+built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few
+years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat.
+The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company
+with the sanction of Prince CharlesIII. The first house was in the
+Place du Chteau; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to
+build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold
+their rights and property in 1860 to Franois Blanc.
+
+[Headnote: THE PALACE.]
+
+The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory
+since 968, when the Emperor OttoI. gave it to GrimaldiI., Lord of
+Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens from the
+Grand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez (p.145). The greatest length of the
+principality, from the cemetery wall at the western extremity to the
+brook St. Roman at the eastern, is (including curves) 3m., and the
+greatest breadth, from Point St. Martin northwards, 1m. Population
+10,000, distributed among four different centres--the city, or Monaco
+proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They
+are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle's nest, occupies
+its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast
+of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most
+easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. At the
+landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which the
+rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on
+certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date
+from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more
+modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle,
+the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the
+chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within
+the entrance is the Cour d'Honneur, decorated on the east side with
+friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865,
+representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a
+horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an
+arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni,
+representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and
+right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left
+the first room is the usher's room. The second is in blue satin;
+hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the
+walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone.
+Bust and full-length portrait of CharlesIII., Prince of Monaco. Ceiling
+painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings and
+green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed pictures
+representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red
+furniture; style Louis XIII.
+
+Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York,
+brother of GeorgeIII.; red furniture and hangings; family portraits,
+some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom in
+which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered scarlet satin;
+ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegant
+bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low screen. 3.
+Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture and
+walls covered with white satin richly embroidered.
+
+The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very pretty
+garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers.
+Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden.
+
+At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money
+bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long,
+and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view.
+Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs,
+and a little way farther down the same street are the glise de la
+Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Htel Dieu. Down on
+the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They
+spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or over the prickly pear
+plants, here very abundant. At this end is also the Jardin St. Martin,
+avery pretty promenade, with charming views. 500 yards west from the
+foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid road to Villefranche, is the
+cemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Among
+the many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre and
+Modestine Neri, brother and sister.
+
+[Headnote: LA CONDAMINE. ST. DEVOTA.]
+
+On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlo
+is +La Condamine+, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable,
+aconsiderable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque
+gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church,
+on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, aRoman martyr, the
+patroness of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of
+Monaco, caused the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for
+having stolen the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the
+harbour and the principal railway station, as well as the less expensive
+hotels, such as the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works,
+and the Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine;
+trangers; Angleterre; Beau-Sjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in
+all, board and lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H.Nice and
+Des Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels:
+Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame
+Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the
+Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still
+higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of
+France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane
+leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels
+marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous
+company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafs, and furnished rooms.
+English chapel in France, above the Htel Victoria. Mean winter
+temperature, 49.3. _Cabs._--The course, within the principality, 1
+fr.; the hour, 3frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. The omnibus that runs
+between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road starts from the Casino (see
+page 178).
+
+[Headnote: MONTE CARLO.]
+
+Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt
+termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the
+Corniche road and the Chteau Mountains, both a considerable way beyond
+the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of
+Focinana Point, is the Casino, alarge and showy building, erected in
+1862 by F.Blanc (d. 1877), anative of Avignon, and formerly the
+proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into
+the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies' (dames) and gentlemen's
+(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the
+concert-room--a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with gilt
+ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the Muses
+and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned arm-chairs
+covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied by the
+orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued.
+Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and
+his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino.
+The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about
+three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance
+are the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors give their names
+and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms are the tables
+for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which the smallest
+sum admitted is 5frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or 240. The fourth
+room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and Boulanger,
+representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, fishers,
+archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to
+trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and
+the largest 12,000 frs. or 480. Only French coin and notes taken at the
+tables.
+
+Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, and
+under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting gallery.
+Entrance, 5frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramify
+in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and along the coast
+either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent coast-road to
+Villefranche (see p.184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is
+studded, even beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas,
+partially hidden among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern
+side of Monte Carlo is +Les Moulins+, now quite a town, with shops,
+hotels, restaurants, and furnished lodgings. Up on the main road is the
+Htel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., dear. Down below on the coast-road,
+fronting the sea, is a small house, the Htel du Parc.
+
+[Headnote: GAMBLING-ROOMS. LES MOULINS. LEMONS.]
+
+At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to
+that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in
+the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one
+can gamble on credit. About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins
+by the main road is the valley of St. Roman, with some very large olive
+and locust trees. In the principality are also large groves of lemon
+trees. They flower and bear fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons,
+which ripen in spring, are called graneti, and those which ripen in
+summer verdami. They are the juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the
+most suitable for exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is
+that made from old tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and
+olive trees is composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse.
+
+_Excursions._--1640 feet above Monaco is +La Turbie+, ascended by a road
+containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are 14 feet long by
+9feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the most are in bad
+condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one hour. It
+commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from the
+railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three restaurants--the
+France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most frequented. Bedrooms,
+2frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful after a hot climb. When up at
+La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus to the little knoll close by
+and take a seat under the rock at the top, whence "From ancient
+battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks and curving bays." But
+the one great view, which excels all the others, is from the
+
+
+[Headnote: TTE DE CHIEN.]
+
++Tte de Chien.+
+
+The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +La
+Turbie+. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the top,
+permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow of the
+mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a splendid
+uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the other places.
+From the Tte de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, town, village,
+cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the western side the
+view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and the Maure
+mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les Moulins, Mt.
+de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, Menton,
+Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, which
+conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western side
+embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of St.
+Jean, apiece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, Antibes, the
+lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel mountains, and
+the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. Agood opera-glass
+should be taken. Astony road leads down the west side of the Tte,
+through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco road, which it joins near
+the battery (see map, p.185).
+
+[Headnote: LA TURBIE.]
+
++La Turbie+, the ancient Trophra Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is
+a poor village, composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways
+close to the massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact
+for 1700 years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a
+prince of Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with
+excellent water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of
+Turbie, at the Colonna del R, aroad descends northwards to the
+sanctuary of Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13m.
+from Nice, but scarcely 2from La Turbie.
+
+The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the
+long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the
+Chteau mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that
+from the Tte de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony
+paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie
+reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the
+Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into
+a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the
+Chteau mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one
+half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les
+Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar
+of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the
+remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to
+the Corniche road (see map, page 185).
+
+
+{150}{4}
++MONTE CARLO+ station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on
+Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROQUEBRUNE.]
+
+{152}{2}
++ROQUEBRUNE+ station, where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the
+low road from Menton.
+
++Roquebrune+, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the sea, among
+great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road a series of
+paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees.
+The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and more
+comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in the
+neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace is a
+small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the great
+castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded it to
+Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almost
+defaced sculpture representing a bishop's mitre, with the armorial
+bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop is
+supposed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of
+France, who repaired this castle in 1528. Abroken staircase leads up to
+the top. "No warrior's tread is echoed by their halls, no warder's
+challenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their
+toil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil from trees that have
+for purple mountains made a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid."
+--_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne.
+
+
+[Headnote: MENTON. HOTELS.]
+
+699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34m. N.E. from
+Cannes, and 15m. N.E. from Nice, is
+
+MENTON,
+
+population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. _Hotels and
+Pensions._--Commencing with those at the west end of the Promenade du
+Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town to the
+Garavan. Those hotels with prefixed have a front to the sea and
+esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor EmmanuelII. The asterisk
+signifies recommended. Wsignifies bottle of wine, and the price given
+that of the cheapest quality. Psignifies pension or boarding-house. At
+the west end of the esplanade the H. du Pavilion; the H. St. George,
+9-12 frs., W 1 fr., by the side of the Borrigo; *P. Condamine; *H. et
+P.Londres. These 4 houses charge from 9 to 12 frs., Wfrom 1 to 2frs.
+Near the Carrei and the Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H.
+Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1 fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1 fr.; and the
+*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1 fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very
+sheltered promenade up the eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where
+the band plays), built over the mouth of the torrent, is the *H. de
+Paris, 10-14 frs., W 1 fr. Same side, H. et P. d'Angleterre, 9-12 frs.
+Opposite, the H.Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in
+the busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Mditerrane, 9-12 frs., W
+1 fr. Next it the house agencies of Amarant et Cie and Tonin-Amarant;
+and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovs et Cie. Opposite, the
+H. Westminster, H. Victoria, and *H. de Menton, all large good
+houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H.Menton is patronised by Messrs. Cook.
+Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to the sea, is the Midi, same
+price. We now enter the eastern or most sheltered quarter, called the
+Garavan. The hotels are large and first-class, and charge from 10 to 20
+frs., and wine from 1 to 2 frs. The most westerly is the H.Italie,
+and, about 100 feet up the bank behind, the principal house of the
+hotel. Alittle farther east, on the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue.
+Near the Belle-Vue, and on the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a
+benevolent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, who
+are received for 20s. aweek, which includes everything "except
+laundress and fire in bedroom." For conditions of admission apply to
+Ransom, Bouverie, and Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30
+Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh.
+Below, on the terrace along the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining
+is the Paix, awell-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais,
+the H. et P.Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site,
+Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Chlet des
+Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais.
+
+Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the
+shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just
+behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the
+first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), *H.
+National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are the
+Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; the
+last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the P.
+des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, on
+the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l'Europe, 9-14 frs.,
+W 2frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the H. and P. des
+Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include service, coffee in the
+morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never wine, excepting the G.
+H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but not coffee.
+
+Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders
+the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of
+the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys
+watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30
+million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the
+thousand.
+
+[Headnote: BANKERS. CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
+
+ _Bankers._--Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. In the Av. Victor Emmanuel
+ are: Biovs et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice.
+ In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro Bank and the English Consulate.
+ _House Agents._--G. Amarant and T. Amarant, 12 and 19 Av.V.
+ Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. Michel. English doctors, chemists, and
+ grocers.
+
+ _Protestant Churches._--Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix;
+ St. John's, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H.Italie;
+ Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R.Partouneaux.
+
+ _Cabs._--One-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2 frs.
+ Two-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3frs. 75 c.
+ A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs.; atwo-horse cab, 25
+ frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1fr. Boats, 2frs.
+ the hour.
+
+Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St.
+Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two
+smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built.
+The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in
+8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even
+slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The
+public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the
+town to Cape St. Martin. Akind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip of
+ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediately
+behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs,
+intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The
+valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep,
+badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.
+
+The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending
+from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two
+roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the
+bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous
+bone-caverns. The _dbris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks in
+the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food
+of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had
+employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, alittle beyond the
+viaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the line
+close to the beach.
+
+[Headnote: CAPE ST. MARTIN. GORBIO. ST. AGNS.]
+
++Cape St. Martin+, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The
+tram stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from
+the cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, aRoman sepulchre,
+consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that
+remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From
+this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive
+trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are
+the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St.
+Honorat (p.158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins the
+carriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. Astony path on the W.
+side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks and
+cliffs (see map, p.185).
+
++Gorbio+, 2 hrs. or 5 m. N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft.
+above the sea. Take the road E. from the Pont de l'Union, passing by the
+entrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnols, and, traversing groves of
+lemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. from the village the road
+becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop.
+500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the
+stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow,
+steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the
+little church, built in 1683, is dedicated "Soli Deo." At the upper end
+of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the
+tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The
+rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends,
+in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agns. It is easily followed, and unfolds
+lovely views. +St. Agns+, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea,
+or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle
+built in the 10th cent. by Haroun, abold Saracen chief. Anarrow path
+leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive
+prospect.
+
+From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the
+village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side
+of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of
+execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of
+much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the
+traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevres, the bed
+of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion
+should be made of Gorbio and St. Agns, commencing with Gorbio.
+
+[Headnote: ANNONCIADE. CASTELLAR.]
+
+Convent and Chapel of the +Annonciade+, 722 ft. above the sea, on the
+ridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank
+of the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Htel
+Beau-Sjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of
+the river, is seen the Htel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this
+easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the
+convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.
+
++Castellar+, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road
+commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, afew yards W. from
+the Place du March. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad
+highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with
+lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream
+Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way.
+Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees,
+is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets
+lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. end with the
+parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins
+of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. From
+the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming
+view. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January.
+From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau,
+3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guide
+advisable.
+
+[Headnote: BENNET'S GARDEN.]
+
++Pont St. Louis, Bennet's Garden+, Hamlets of +Grimaldi+ and
++Ciotti+.--At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France
+and Italy, anarrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge
+of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are
+an Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet
+Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point,
+the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper
+entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The
+garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is
+chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full
+bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming.
+
+The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill
+leads to Grimaldi, afew straggling cottages among olive and lemon
+trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having
+passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends the
+hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting
+of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from Ciotti is Mt.
+Belinda, 1837ft.
+
+[Headnote: LA MORTOLA. HANBURY GROUNDS.]
+
++La Mortola+, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia
+omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of
+the +Hanbury Grounds+, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach
+by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the
+more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with
+the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the
+Pergola, acharming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive
+pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants.
+Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent
+view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera,
+is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the
+highest part of the road, alittle to the W. of Mortola. For time and
+conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the Palmaro
+Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The generous founder and father of the present
+owner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of
+the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an
+hour's drive from Bordighera.
+
+[Headnote: LES MOULINS. MONTI.]
+
+The most important drive towards the interior is to +Sospel+, 14 m. N.,
+on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p.182).
+Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railway
+station side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are large
+plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi are
+Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4m.
+farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably above
+the stream, are the church and straggling village of +Monti+. The
+bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar,
+well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the
+part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a
+small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crosses
+the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d'Ora.
+
+[Headnote: HERMIT'S GROTTO.]
+
+About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an
+almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window
+or cavity called the +Hermit's Grotto+. Over the entrance is an
+illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another
+inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:--
+
+ CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L'ABITO.
+ 1528.
+ (Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)
+
+The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. by
+4, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27
+yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds.
+long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening.
+Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retired
+from grief.
+
+ [Map: Italian Riviera, &c]
+
+At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to
+take part in the third crusade, alord, named Robert de Ferques,
+hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign.
+This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride,
+Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation,
+resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by
+concealing her sex under a man's dress, and set out with joy in the
+capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her
+horse, and was forced to stop at an inn.
+ Robert de Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army,
+ and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a
+ few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to
+ his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so
+ overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of
+ Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in
+ the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost
+ sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have
+ been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard.
+
+[Headnote: CASTELLON.]
+
+ The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near
+ the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the
+ walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above
+ the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8m. from Menton, pop. 320.
+ 5m. farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182).
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
+
+ _Climate._--Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills
+ from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder.
+
+ "A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any
+ period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land,
+ must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the
+ leading characteristics of the climate of this region--the Undercliff
+ of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want
+ bracing, renovating--for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and
+ the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires
+ rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the
+ stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or
+ of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out
+ of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter
+ residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced
+ pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at MentonI am now
+ surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases.
+ This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by
+ rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of
+ nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and
+ thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and
+ assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician
+ to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of
+ the Riviera." --Bennet's _Winter Climates_.
+
+ "With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain
+ shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to
+ the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these
+ directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon
+ the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at
+ sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean
+ temperature of November is 54, December 40, February 49, March 53.
+ When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day,
+ though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above
+ 60." --_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown.
+
+ For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185.
+
+
+
+
+THE ITALIAN RIVIERA,
+
+ or
+
++Menton to Genoa.+
+
+By VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, and SAVONA.
+
+Distance 100 miles. See accompanying Map.
+
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{ }{100}
++MENTON.+ The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the
+bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.
+
+6 m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of
+Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is
+
+
+{6}{93}
++VENTIMIGLIA+, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_
+near station, the Htel Suisse; in the low town, the Htel Tornaghi.
+All the trains halt here of an hour, and luggage entering France or
+Italy is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of the
+luggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with the
+time of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, "Sale
+d'Aspetto," cloak-rooms, "Camerini di Toeletta," and the refreshment
+rooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train.
+The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominent
+position; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office,
+theatre, and the best caf. The walk up this same Via to the town-gate
+shows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuation
+beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station,
+on the right bank of the Nervia,
+ on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery,
+ which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What
+ remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from
+ the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under
+ the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province.
+ Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily
+ between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183.
+
+
+[Headnote: BORDIGHERA.]
+
+{10}{90}
++BORDIGHERA+, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is
+compactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the cape
+S.Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below,
+on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of
+the invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen.
+_Hotels:_ the best is the *H. Angleterre, afirst-class house in a
+garden, near the station.
+ Similarly situated is the H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20
+ frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the
+ Angleterre is *Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station
+ are H. and P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs.; the H. and P.Sapia, 8 to
+ 9 frs., and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward
+ are the hotels Victoria and Windsor. Admirably situated on an
+ eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the *H. and P.
+ Belvdre, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the *Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9frs.
+ At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with
+ industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by
+ an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing
+ through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour
+ between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of
+ Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high
+ town.
+
+ The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose
+ tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale
+ yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with
+ vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon,
+ after the olive, is the most profitable tree.
+
+ To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1 hr. there and back, by the Strada
+ Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This
+ tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as
+ an "avisium" or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a
+ delightful view of part of the coast.
+
+[Headnote: ISOLA BUONA.]
+
+ 2 m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the
+ Nervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1
+ to 2m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11m.
+ from Bordighera. On this road, 1 m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4m.
+ from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with
+ the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th
+ cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and
+ on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The
+ confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads
+ up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce,
+ commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is
+ Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone
+ bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses
+ crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal
+ castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by
+ the Genoese in 1672. 2 m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8m. from Bordighera,
+ is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe
+ manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, alittle way
+ up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from
+ Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni
+ Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as
+ astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory
+ at Paris for four generations.
+
+[Headnote: PIGNA.]
+
+ A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is +Pigna+, on the +Nervia+,
+ at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, avillage where
+ the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from
+ the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose
+ window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the
+ apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the
+ church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and
+ picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous
+ spring, temp. 79 Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near
+ Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of
+ Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4m. N., to
+ Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.
+
+ The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6m. N.E., by
+ Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S.Ampeglio is the
+ hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster
+ representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends
+ from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm
+ and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway,
+ is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70 F. After this the
+ Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills
+ behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the
+ sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings,
+ mostly by great Italian masters, such as Fr Bartolomeo,I. Bassano,
+ F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C.Dolci, Domenichino,
+ Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti.
+ In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected
+ by the Abb Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at
+ his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the
+ sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix,
+ bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano
+ Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from
+ Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs.
+
+[Headnote: LA COLLA.]
+
+ La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary
+ to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to
+ "wet the ropes" when the obelisk was being raised in front of St.
+ Peter's. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3m. from
+ Ospedaletti.
+
+ The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a
+ residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at
+ Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the
+ configuration of the coast into a west wind.
+
+ Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies,
+ as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of
+ Tabernacles.
+
+
+[Headnote: OSPEDALETTI.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{13}{87}
++OSPEDALETTI+, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage
+towards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In the
+village is the H. and P.Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. Upon an
+eminence with garden is the H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining is
+a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. The
+gambling is private, and on a small scale.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS.]
+
+{16}{84}
++SAN REMO+, 16 m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter
+18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the
+maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water,
+and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious
+trades.
+
+_Hotels._--Those with the figure are first-class houses, with
+second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of
+their class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the
+principal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the G. H. de la
+Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden.
+ Then follow the H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8frs.; the *H. San Remo;
+ the P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate
+ Bank; the Vicario Store; the P. Molinari, and the H. Bretagne,
+ frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire's is
+ the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post
+ Office.
+
+ On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio
+ Emanuele, are the H. Nice and the *H. Angleterre. Near the
+ Angleterre are the Pensions *Allemagne; Rossi; and Lindenhof; and
+ the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings
+ the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes
+ doctors' fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except
+ washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts
+ & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.
+
+ At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one
+ front to the sea and the other to the road--the H. Mditerrane and
+ the *H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the ViaV. Emanuele, are
+ the *Beau-Sjour with garden, and the H.Bains.
+
+ At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences
+ in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the P.
+ Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the P. Tatlock (German);
+ *Htel Royal; *Belle-Vue; Paradis; *Londres; Pavillon (moderate);
+ Anglais; Palmieri; and the *West-End, the most important hotel on
+ this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the
+ pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the
+ pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the "pensions" from 7 to 11 frs.
+
+ Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo
+ and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and
+ Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6m. N. (see map, p.165).
+
+ _Cab Fares._--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1 fr.
+ night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1 fr.
+ during the day, and 2 frs. at night. The hour, 3frs.; at night,
+ 4 frs.
+
+[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES.]
+
+Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of
+these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via
+Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants,
+booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. "The mean
+temperature is 49.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet's
+estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of
+the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet
+for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly
+3 more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the
+protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter
+from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast
+olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into
+healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and
+removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected
+spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable
+choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying
+distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while
+the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers,
+provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions." --Williams' _Winter
+Stations_.
+
+San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at
+Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces
+built up with low stone walls without plaster.
+
+[Headnote: POGGIO.]
+
+The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San
+Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the
+Htel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where
+the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the
+latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the
+"Strada Consortile de San Remo Ceriana." This road ascends through
+olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to
+the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory,
+while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on
+the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many
+wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended
+all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the
+Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H.Etoile d'Italie, 6m. from San
+Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the
+profusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of the
+excursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20
+frs., with hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The
+chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San
+Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma,
+Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind
+them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the
+west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the
+chapel and back, 7frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with hr. rest (see maps,
+pp.163 and 199).
+
+A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla,
+on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea,
+and 2m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8frs.; 2
+horses, 12 frs., with hr. repose. See page 199.
+
+
+[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO.]
+
++St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.+
+
+One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above
+the sea, and 4m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the
+Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5frs. San Romolo consists of
+some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was
+inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from
+it the ascent is made of the Piano del R, aridge 3500 ft. above the
+sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge,
+descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and
+make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends
+to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about
+half that time from San Romolo. "In making the ascent of Monte Bignone,
+it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are
+strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite
+practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat
+trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is
+exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost
+every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with
+amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it
+runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and
+rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after
+an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the
+broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the
+ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained,
+and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable lies
+stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more
+than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder.
+To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far
+distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo;
+on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of
+the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla,
+and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains
+of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the
+various capes and promontories as far as Cap d'Antibes and even the
+Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the
+farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and
+Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are the
+mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the
+Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep
+valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than
+the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped
+Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in
+the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a
+narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of
+Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a
+singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the
+houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading
+down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but
+clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be
+made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful
+and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p.201, and
+map, p.165.)
+
+[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE.]
+
+"It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the
+splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be
+seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in
+Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with
+ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair
+health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare
+and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a
+lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue
+Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., apink variety of which is sometimes met
+with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its
+trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula
+acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip,
+Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.;
+Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.;
+Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady
+dells, Daphne laureola L.With two or three exceptions, these flowers
+were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some
+weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many
+plants of Helleborus foetidus L., as also for the first time in flower
+the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species
+so commonly found above the region of the olive trees." --_San Remo and
+the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall.
+
++San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8frs.; 2 horses, 12
+frs., with hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from
+San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from
+Taggia to Lampedusa, 2frs.
+ The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d'Italia,
+ formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or
+ Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From
+ the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of
+ Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the
+ Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The
+ Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of
+ Badalucco.
+
+
+[Headnote: TAGGIA.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{21}{79}
++TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus
+awaits passengers (fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d'Italia, at
+the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to
+Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and
+about hour's walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the
+gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty
+town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair
+churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the principal street in the town--is the
+habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering
+the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to
+the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the
+beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the
+ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2m. farther east by rail is San
+Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that
+of San Remo.
+
+
+[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA.]
+
+{31}{69}
++PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce.
+
+Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small
+bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town,
+containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double
+row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior
+represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this
+coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly
+finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided
+into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with
+attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are
+covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the
+edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly
+hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows
+and doorways. Agood and much-frequented road, or rather promenade,
+connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant,
+beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace
+of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we
+reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Pitro is
+covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence
+overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full
+of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way
+to
+
+[Headnote: ALASSIO. ALBENGA.]
+
++Alassio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44m. east from Menton, and
+56m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a
+high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et
+P.Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9frs. On the beach at the E. end, the
+*G.H. Alassio, 8 to 9frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H.
+Mditerrane, 6 to 8frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel.
+
+Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some
+of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of
+the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the
+hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or
+up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large
+carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio and
+the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a
+castle on the summit of the hill.
+
++Albenga+ is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little
+distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d'Albenga; Italia; Vittoria.
+Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the
+birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a
+broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous
+trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees
+trained as espaliers. Agood carriage-road extends up the valley of the
+Nerva and across the Col di S.Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio
+and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.
+
+After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach
+at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola,
+pop. 1000, asheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon
+trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape.
+
+
+[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI.]
+
+{59}{41}
++FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the
+Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles
+of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes,
+presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the
+church S.Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The
+pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great
+deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the
+valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th
+cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, apicturesque ruin. Five miles N.
+from Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the
+commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town,
+formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially
+surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced
+from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via
+EmanueleII., which commences at the beach on E. side by the
+clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the
+new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio,
+leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime
+pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls
+garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the
+station. Fishing is the chief industry. Abeautiful road, 2m. N. by the
+coast, leads to Spotorno.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAVONA.]
+
+{74}{26}
++SAVONA+, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di
+Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse.
+In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his
+spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now
+modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad
+streets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in
+enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the
+Rupe di S.Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied
+by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are
+small harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is,
+in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different
+shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of
+gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the
+western end, are byV. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest
+the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the
+Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle
+of JuliusII. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first
+chapel, left on entering, a"Nativity" by A.Semini. The figure of the
+Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the
+others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church
+is an "Adoration of the Magi" by Albert Durer, in the form of a
+triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the
+altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800
+years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to
+500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus
+IV., and JuliusII., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona.
+4m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di
+Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with
+precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the
+intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91m.
+northwards (see p.183).
+
+
+[Headnote: ALBISSLA.]
+
+{77}{23}
++ALBISSLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from
+the Port or Marina. 4m. farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop.
+10,000, apleasant town at the head of a large bay. Alittle
+shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange
+groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the
+_Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means of
+transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous
+missionary. Between Varazze, 64m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano,
+6m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera,
+sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso
+(1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs,
+umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees,
+and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there
+just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness
+of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the
+village of Inoria.
+
+
+ [Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante]
+
+[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS.]
+
+ miles from MENTON
+ miles to GENOA
+
+{85}{15}
++COGOLETO+, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and on
+reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left.
+In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus,
+with the following inscription:--
+
+ _Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;_
+ _Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!_
+ _Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere._
+
+It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the
+other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That
+in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the
+adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where
+it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a
+continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this
+sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast
+continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances,
+they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious
+nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of
+Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of
+Cogoleto. Map, p.220.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARENZANO.]
+
+{87}{13}
++ARENZANO+, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8frs., near station. One of
+the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque
+country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between
+Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.
+
+
+{91}{8}
++VOLTRI+, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and
+shipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p.220.
+
+
+[Headnote: PEGLI.]
+
+{95}{5}
++PEGLI+, pop. 1000. _A winter station._ The largest hotel is the
+*H. Pegli et de la Mditerrane, with one side to the sea and the other
+to the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9 to 15
+frs. On the beach the H.Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little
+village, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant
+communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of
+the grounds around the +Villa Pallavicini+, ornamented with statues of
+Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. But
+the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with large
+stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5feet deep, surrounded by evergreen
+shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At
+one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many miles
+distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a
+hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and of
+soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble down
+the mountain in cascades into the lake, which had to be lined with
+porcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and covered
+with consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed
+in a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In other
+parts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water,
+and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant,
+1fr.; for party, 2frs.
+
+[Headnote: SESTRI-PONENTE. CORNIGLIANO.]
+
+1 m. E. from Pegli and 3 W. from Genoa is +Sestri-Ponente+, pop.
+10,800. _Hotel:_ *G.H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing
+establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small
+pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom
+every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the
+gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered
+with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues of
+the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than
+the next town, +Cornigliano+, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered
+garden, 2m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4
+to 5 colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both
+hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous
+suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway
+station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus
+of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.
+
+
+[Headnote: GENOA.]
+
+{100}{ }
++GENOA+, pop. 145,000. The hotels most conveniently situated for
+visitors are the G. H. de Gnes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari,
+opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G.H. Isotta, 10 to 15
+frs., No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the
+post; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the
+Piazza Annunziata, and the H. trangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above
+are in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port
+in the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who
+have to embark, are--taking them in the order from W. to E.--the Croix
+de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H.Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the
+*France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last two
+hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are the
+best money-changers.
+
+For +Genoa to Turin+, see p. 279.
+
+Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards from
+the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad street
+Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches.
+Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by
+the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Maddalena,
+which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of that
+Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.
+
+[Headnote: CAFS. CABS. STEAMERS.]
+
+_Cafs._-- *Caf Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle
+Nazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. +The principal sights+ are
+the church of the Annunziata, p.212; the Cemetery approached by the
+Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between the
+railway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria in
+Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de
+Ferrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea
+(p.218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the
+Museum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di
+Circonvallazione.
+
+Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari,
+Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily.
+Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania,
+Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English
+steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean,
+apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S.Lorenzo.
+
+1-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr.; every successive
+hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2frs.; every
+successive hour, 1fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1fr. each.
+Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104m. N.W. (p.279).
+
+Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo
+Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.
+
+Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving ground,
+rising rapidly from the water's edge to the height of from 500 to 600
+feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets from 6
+to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut in
+them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di
+Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced "corsos"
+skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza
+Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to
+the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the
+upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di
+Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of
+Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style--gates 40 feet
+high, with marble columns--courts paved with various coloured
+marbles--broad staircases, all of marble--rooms 30 feet high with arched
+ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, crystal
+lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels divided
+by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings in oil.
+The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a
+continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the
+west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa.
+
+[Headnote: PALACES. PALAZZO DORIA.]
+
+The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of
+art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty
+staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo
+Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via
+Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces
+are remarkable. Afee of 1fr. is sufficient to leave with the keeper of
+the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms provided with a
+list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on a card, which
+makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and guides.
+
+As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and the
+cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after having
+visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of the
+Via S.Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by the
+ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria di
+Carignano.
+
+The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria,
+reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by
+Perino del Vaga, apupil of Raphael's, and a contributor to the
+paintings in the Vatican. Perino's best works here are Jupiter defeating
+the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the
+entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea
+Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P.Carlone. In the garden, on
+the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules,
+erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog Rolando, given
+him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the title of "Il
+Principe." The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo, and
+over the altar the sword presented to him by PaulIII.
+
+ [Map: Genoa]
+
+[Headnote: VIA MILANO.]
+
+Adjoining the Doria palace is the +Via Milano+, aterraced promenade
+lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more
+costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking
+_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the Royal
+Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the
+Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P.F. Cantone and J.A.
+Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been so greatly
+admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The accommodation is
+extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the principal reception
+hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are indifferent.
+
+The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of B.Bianco,
+and improved by P.A. Corradi, contains a large collection of
+paintings--among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a St. Jerome, by
+Guido; St. Jerome, aVirgin, and Jesus scourged, by Tizziano; aSt.
+George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by Correggio.
+
+[Headnote: P. DURAZZO PALLAVICINI.]
+
+No. 1 Via Balbi is the +P. Durazzo Pallavicini+, one of the most
+important to visit. The architect was B.Bianco, but the vestibule and
+staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by A.Tagliafico. The
+paintings are almost entirely by Italian masters, such as Molinaretti,
+Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, Lanfranco, Procaccini,
+Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, Vercelli, Reni, Merone,
+Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first room there is a valuable
+triptych by A.Durer, and the gem of the collection, JamesI. of England
+and Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception room are other three choice
+works by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola,
+Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of the
+artists and subject.
+
+From the Via Balbi we pass into the +Piazza dell' Annunziata+, with, on
+the left hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa,
+built in 1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its
+present state by the Conventurati in 1587. The faade, supported on six
+stately marble columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty,
+and resplendent with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the
+entrance is Procaccino's masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on
+the cupola are by A.Ansaldi, those on the choir by J.Benzo, and the
+remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things
+are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and
+the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for
+Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes.
+
+We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to +San
+Siro+, which was the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar
+is by Puget. The fresco on the roof by G.B. Carlone. The marble columns
+are all of one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6
+Piazza Pellicceria, is the +Palazzo Spinola+, with many beautiful
+paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthlemy and St. Laurent by
+Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino,
+aMagdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin by L.Giordano, the Last
+Supper by G.C. Procaccini, S.Jerome by Spagnolletti, aHoly Family by
+Albani, the Four Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem
+of the collection, aHoly Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by
+Tavarone, G.Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO ROSSO.]
+
+In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the +Palazzo Rosso+ (Galleria
+Brignoli), with a small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian
+masters, distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn,
+and Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and
+Carloni. It contains also a good library.
+
+No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, asplendid
+building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes representing
+incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and galleries are open
+to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala Rossa, and the
+Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a portrait of
+Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing him in the
+presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among other
+paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A.Durer, and in the third (the
+Sala Verde) abeautiful bust of Columbus. The architect was Rocco
+Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by G.T. Carlone,
+and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, and M.Canzio.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO SERRA.]
+
+At No. 12 Via Nuova is the +P. Serra+, built, like most of the other
+palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect
+Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments
+are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the
+brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber,
+representing the funeral games instituted by neas in honour of
+Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect
+Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste.
+But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon,
+shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt,
+alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The
+architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the
+roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks.
+The roof of the next room was painted by A.Semini.
+
+The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though smaller
+display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of No. 5 in this
+same street, the P.Spinola.
+
+At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and
+splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings byP.
+Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and Tintoretto. We
+now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, the principal
+theatre, the H. Gnes, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, where young
+men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and sculpture.
+Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram stops at the
+cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of Carignano.
+
+The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to +S. Matteo+,
+built in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G.A. Montorsoli at the request of
+Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on
+the church. Over the altar is his sword. The "palaces" in front of the
+church belonged to the Doria family.
+
+[Headnote: S. AMBROGIO.]
+
+In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautiful
+marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of the
+Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the
+Assumption by G.Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one
+possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same
+master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and
+Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+,
+now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is
+ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena
+marble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed
+by Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used
+by Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
+
+On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the
+11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of
+black and white marble in alternate bands. The faade consists of three
+large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch of
+the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work,
+while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. In
+the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated
+from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches,
+over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir
+has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in
+the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the
+chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It was
+built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G.Porta and M.Civitali,
+of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official
+robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by four
+porphyry columns is the shrine by D.Terrano (1437), said to contain the
+ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the
+right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van
+Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of
+the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Csarea, in Palestine,
+and tradition asserted that it had been presented by the Queen of Sheba
+to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb
+with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law was
+passed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to
+the vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that the
+material was only glass.
+
+Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S.Lorenzo is a cab-stand,
+whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens to
+the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views of
+Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, passing
+through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30c.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY.]
+
++S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo
+Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above
+the entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four
+colossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by
+Puget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings
+(covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and
+Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross
+by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the
+highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an
+excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square
+goes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill
+at the N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine
+view.
+
+About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo
+Santo+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every hour from
+the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the
+Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of
+the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.
+
+[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI.]
+
+The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820
+ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of
+21 ft., and 18 ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three
+coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room
+enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The
+poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded
+by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all
+that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to
+the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of those
+they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely
+statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley
+contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other two
+galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large piece
+of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77
+long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstone
+from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of a
+great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black
+marble 32 ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal
+statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The faade rests on six
+white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure of galleries,
+stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead.
+At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse,
++Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di
+Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing
+accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large
+establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.
+
+
++The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.+
+
+ Distance 102 miles, time 4 hours by "direct" train. See Maps,
+ pages 199 and 211.
+
+ miles from GENOA
+ miles to PISA
+
+{ }{102}
++GENOA.+--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with the
+exception of Bordighera and S.Remo, those situated between Nervi and
+Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N.
+winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards,
+orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, and
+fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of the
+superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a site
+for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p.211.
+
+
+[Headnote: NERVI.]
+
+{7}{95}
++NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. et P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large
+garden, 8 to 15 frs. H. et P.Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to
+12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et
+P.Anglais, the *H. et P.Belle-Vue, 8 to 9frs., including wine;
+admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminus
+of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8frs. Opposite,
+the H. et P.Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service.
+
+Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous
+narrow street 2m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S.
+side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with olive trees and
+studded with churches and cottages. Tenm. S.E. from Nervi is +Santa
+Margherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. et P.Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs.
+Acharmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the
+neighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful
+gardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the
+village and promontory of Portofino, 3m. S. To the right or N. is the
+villa Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the
+promontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing
+village of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.
+
+
+{18}{84}
++RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a
+small bay. Agood deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the
+many pretty walks is the one to S.Margherita, 2m. N., by the low road
+skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle
+longer.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHIVARI.]
+
+{24}{78}
++CHIVARI+, pop. 12,000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo
+della Fenic; Locanda Nazionale; Caff Ristorante Priario. One of the
+best towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets,
+substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuable
+pictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, the
+church of the Virgin of Orta, whose "sacred" picture hangs over the high
+altar. Chivari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twisted
+straw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedi di Chivari. Many of the
+organ-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4m. from Chivari,
+across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand
+Hotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this
+pleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay
+terminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand
+view. Shortly after passing Riomaggiore, 51 miles from Genoa, the Gulf
+of Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the
+island of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief
+of which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45
+frs.
+
+
+[Headnote: SPEZIA.]
+
+{56}{46}
++SPEZIA+, pop. 11,500, 1 m. from station. Spezia, although near good
+scenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitable
+winter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the spacious
+corso along the beach, the best being the "Croce di Malta," alarge and
+handsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow theH. National; the
+Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-class, but the
+Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1 fr. per hour;
+with two men, 2frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italian
+navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world.
+NapoleonI. intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour of
+France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies
+150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S.Vito, cover
+an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of the bay is the picturesque Porto
+Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8m. distant by land, 10 frs. per
+carriage 1 hr., or boat 2 hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black,
+with gold-coloured veins.
+
+"To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte
+Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the
+Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte
+Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand
+panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of
+Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While
+the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern
+and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which
+renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the
+Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia
+valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that
+time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. Afavourite
+excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6m.
+S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a most
+sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the sun has
+set at Spezia. The house, asquare old-fashioned Italian villa, which
+Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, near the
+village." --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the train
+crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, and
+arrives at
+
+
+[Headnote: SARZANA.]
+
+{67}{34}
++SARZANA+, pop. 11,200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town,
+with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the
+Grand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese
+in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the
+birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447
+elected pope under the title of NicholasV., and who constituted his
+native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and
+founder of the Vatican library.
+
+The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed to
+Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly
+of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street
+right, is the citadel, two minutes' distant; and about fifteen minutes'
+farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, abeautiful
+though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the
+railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen from
+the station.
+
+
+[Headnote: AVENZA.--CARRARA.]
+
+{74}{31}
++AVENZA.+ Station for Carrara, 3 miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also
+for Carrara await passengers at the station. Fare, 5fr.
+
+ +Carrara+ (pop. 14,000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union
+ of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys
+ with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the
+ theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the
+ Accademia. Near the Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the
+ station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing
+ the bridge by Walton's marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio
+ Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a
+ short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels.
+ The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream
+ Torano, and the village of the same name, of a mile from Carrara.
+ The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden
+ bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble.
+ To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio
+ Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all
+ of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue
+ to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cav), of which
+ there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the
+ mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris.
+ The nearest and the easiest "cav" to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The
+ other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent
+ the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been
+ found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and
+ Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any
+ particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4fr. Besides the common
+ road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the
+ valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique
+ Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The
+ marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from
+ Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not
+ troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great
+ business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and
+ the principal establishments the studios of the artists, where
+ statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and
+ exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.
+
+ The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior
+ walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is
+ nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies
+ of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found
+ chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti.
+
+
+ miles from GENOA
+ miles to PISA
+
+{78}{26}
++MASSA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot of
+Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts.
+Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds,
+so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the
+Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the
+gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both on
+the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci,
+although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The town
+is quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but the
+principal occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square was
+once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon's sister. Valuable
+marble quarries. Pop. 5000.
+
+
+{84}{20}
++PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works
+near the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On
+the first large house, right hand of square, atablet informs us that in
+it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, "strinse nuovi
+contratti per la facciata di S.Lorenzo in Firenze." S.Martino (13th
+cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the
+churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile
+(1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the church
+are handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domes
+and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Municipale,
+with, in front, astatue to LeopoldII., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino
+(14th cent.), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood
+are quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble
+quarries.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIAREGGIO.]
+
+{90}{14}
++VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine;
+Commercio. Afavourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa
+and Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast
+on this beach. Afew miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake
+Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about
+6m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.
+
+
+[Headnote: PISA.]
+
+{105}{ }
++PISA+, pop. 26,300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung'
+Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to
+station, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; left hand,
+Commerce. Behind the H.Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the left
+side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-stand
+at the station. _Fares._--From the station to the cathedral, with from
+one to two passengers, 1fr.; from three to four, 1fr. 15 sous. The
+hour, 2fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to
+the Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifth
+street right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at the
+commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza del
+Duomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the
+Baptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes
+considerably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of
+the 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.
+
+[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, was
+completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind arches
+decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarly
+constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronze
+doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entrance
+by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures in
+delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and various
+other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits,
+and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311 ft., and of the
+transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. Adouble row of
+columns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts and
+choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of fine
+marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them are
+semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and black
+marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars are
+by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite each
+other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the
+transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the
+fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the
+ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a
+colossal Mosaic by G.Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintings
+are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops' chairs. Here also
+are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi,
+and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pier
+of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on the
+corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. In
+the right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb
+of S.Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga
+and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy
+Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but
+have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while
+a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp
+suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are
+synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.
+
+ [Map: Pisa]
+
+[Headnote: LEANING TOWER.]
+
+The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a cylindrical edifice built of
+square blocks of compact marble, and consisting of a well-designed solid
+basement, 159 ft. in circumference, with walls 13 ft. thick, above which
+rise six open arcaded galleries, supported by 200 granite and marble
+columns. Over the sixth arcade rises a round tower 27 ft. high. The
+entire height is 183 ft., the mean diameter of the main portion 52 ft.,
+and the deflection from the perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of
+the cornice, which projects 32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174,
+and finished 1350. The ascent is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide,
+formed in the wall; but not fewer than three are allowed to visit the
+top at the same time. Fee for the party, 1fr. The keeper lives in one
+of the small houses (No. 14) nearly opposite.
+
+[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--CEMETERY.]
+
+The Baptistery is a circular building, 361 feet in circumference,
+surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and constructed after the designs of
+Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 and finished towards the end of the
+14th cent. Above the third storey rises the dome, intersected by long
+lines of very prominent fretwork, meeting in a cornice near the top, and
+terminating in a small dome crowned with a statue of St. John the
+Baptist, the titular saint of all such edifices. In the interior eight
+large Sardinian granite columns and four marble piers support twelve
+arches, over which rises the tier of piers and arches which support the
+cupola, within conical, but externally hemispherical. In the centre
+stands an octagon marble font for the baptism of adults, with four
+circular compartments at opposite sides for the baptism of infants. The
+beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da Pisa (1260) is ornamented with
+bas-reliefs, and supported on seven columns. Behind the Baptistery is
+the _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 by the Archbishop Ubaldo.
+It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, and surrounded by a broad
+gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and 62 mullioned arches with
+quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The inner side of the wall is
+covered with paintings in fresco, begun about the year 1300, and
+continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on entering is the monument
+of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right commence
+frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the patron
+saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the second door
+illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the Theban
+wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. Above 38,
+the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of Death,--filling
+those living in pleasure with horror, but those in sorrow with joy. Now
+follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the three chapels, and
+frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension. On
+the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by Puccio Orvieto, 14th
+cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. On the west wall is
+hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be drawn across the mouth
+of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria broke through in 1290,
+burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the chain to Genoa. Afew years
+ago, according to the inscription, the Genoese returned it to Pisa. On
+the wall, under the chain, is the monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and,
+alittle to the right, aMadonna by that famous sculptor. The empty
+space within the cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the
+city. It is filled, to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the
+Holy Land by the galleys of Pisa. [Headnote: S.MARIA DELLA SPINA.]
+Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on
+the bank of the Arno (alow square church)--an excellent specimen of the
+Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. The churches of
+St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. Andrea, and St.
+Francisco, contain a few curious and some good paintings, with other
+antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed to contain the bones
+of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, Lanfreducci, Seta, and
+Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice.
+
+Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the
+Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and
+well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian,
+considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next
+page).
+
+ [Map: Leghorn]
+
+[Headnote: LEGHORN. STEAMERS FOR CORSICA.]
+
+Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance
+11 miles. +Leghorn+ (pop. 90,000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza del
+Cantiere, the Nord, fronting the harbour; and close by, in the Via
+Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; New York; France; and at No. 59 of the
+same street, Il Giappone. Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi.
+Presbyterian church, No. 3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1 fr. Boat
+from the hotel to the steamer, 2fr. Leghorn has many handsome and
+well-paved streets; among the best of them is the Via Vittorio Emanuele,
+which, commencing at the head of the harbour from the Piazza dei
+Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza d'Armi, with the
+cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its continuation, on
+the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends to a large
+building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is the grand
+reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by an
+aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing
+"Humphrey Clinker," and was buried in the English cemetery. Steam-boats
+every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in Sardinia, and for
+Marseilles and Genoa.
+
+
++Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.+
+
+ Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199.
+
+ miles from PISA
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{ }{62}
++PISA.+ The direct line to Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance,
+49 miles. Time, 2 hours and 10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca
+route is _San Giuliano_, with its thermal springs, temp. 109 and 84
+Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock at the foot of the wooded Monti
+Pisani. The waters "are used internally in chronic hepatic complaints,
+in gravel, and some renal affections; in dysentery, and dyspepsia
+attended with pain and vomiting." --Madden's _Health Resorts_. After
+Giuliano, we reach the Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the
+left side of the Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive
+embankments.
+
+
+{15}{47}
++LUCCA+ (pop. 22,000). Each portmanteau taken from the station to the
+cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs await passengers, 1fr.; portmanteau,
+4 sous.
+
+_Sights._--A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in circumference, and a visit
+to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To the south of Lucca, near the
+station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 arches.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO DUCALE--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
+
+_Hotels:_ Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, afirst
+class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona,
+near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence
+to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H.Corona.
+Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in the
+Piazza dell'Erba, off the P.Napoleone. Lucca is one of the most ancient
+cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to the Etrurians, but was taken
+from them by the Ligurians, and colonised by the Romans about 170 years
+before the birth of our Lord. The most remarkable event that
+distinguished it in ancient times was the interview which took place
+here between Csar, Pompey, and Crassus, and which attracted to the town
+half the senate and nobility of Rome. After the fall of the Roman
+empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, from one of whose
+race, AzonII., of the house of Este, the royal families of Brunswick
+and England are descended. The town is in the form of the letter O,
+surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable drive. At the
+railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the principal
+sights. One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale,
+now the Palazzo Provinciale, avast and substantial edifice, built in
+1578, enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the
+post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The
++Picture-Gallery+, open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2,
+although small, contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the
+first room is a Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the
+Creator with Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo,
+in 1515 and 1509. Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the
+Sala da Ballo, painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are
+a Madonna by Perugini; afull length portrait of Napoleon's sister
+Elisa; and two ancient pictures on wood--a Nativity, and a Christ with
+Saints. The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were
+occupied by Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by
+Bartolini (1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza
+Napoleone, by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to
+another open space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between
+the two churches a house called the "Administrazione del opera della
+chiesa;" where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_,
+an elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B.Baroni in 1350, and the
+gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the
+Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is
+expected. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martino
+was commenced by Anselmo Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope
+AlexanderII., blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England.
+The faade, with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in
+1204, the choir in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of
+the portico are subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on
+the left is a Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. Loftiness
+and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the interior of this
+church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, with the exception
+of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The windows are small and
+filled with modern glass, excepting the three at the eastern end, which
+are by P.Ugolino. All the pictures are covered, excepting on Sundays
+and feast-days, but the custodian can always be found in the sacristy,
+who shows the church for a franc. Commencing at the first altar, right
+hand from main entrance, Nativity, by Passignano; second, Adoration of
+the Magi, P.Zucchero; third, Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth,
+Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, Resurrection. In south transept, west
+side, is the monument to Pietro da Noceto, one of the many admirable
+works by Matteo Civitali, to whose genius the church owes its best
+sculpture, which he contributed during a period of nearly thirty years
+from 1472. The angels on the altar in the Chapel del Sagramento,
+opposite the monument, as well as the whole of the chaste white marble
+altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining the sacramental chapel,
+are by him. On the left side of the high altar is the altar to "Christo
+Liberatori," by G.Bologna, and adjoining, La Cappella del Santuario,
+where again we find the beautiful handiwork of Civitali displayed on the
+altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna+ which forms the
+reredos of the altar is by Fra Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna
+by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the sacristy, are the two gems in the church.
+Just outside the Cappella del Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilaria
+del Carretto_ by Jacopo della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly
+mutilated, yet a beautiful imitation of the repose of nature transferred
+to statuary. [Headnote: THE TEMPIETTO. S.GIOVANNI. S.FREDIANO.] In the
+north aisle is the +Tempietto+, asmall octagonal chapel standing apart,
+in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or 9th cent., said to
+have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of an angel. The
+fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the Duomo represents
+him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times a year. The
+embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure of
+S.Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit opposite,
+are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, founded in the
+12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly relieved by the
+coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone by the western
+corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the Piazza and Church
+of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty faade composed
+of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the same direction
+towards the ramparts, we reach +S. Frediano+, of the 7th cent., with a
+large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just within it, on
+each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an ancient
+circular font about 9feet in diameter, beautifully carved in relief by
+Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is against the wall,
+and is by N.Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The second chapel on the
+right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness of Lucca, in a
+sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east side) is a
+coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall of the
+same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the assumption
+of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel covered
+with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the
+transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had
+been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised
+by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an
+entombment. Opposite is S.Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying by
+prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. Above
+is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God
+surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3 m. from Lucca is the
+Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds.
+
+
++The Baths of Lucca.+
+
+ 17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199.
+
+ The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through
+ pleasing scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right
+ side of the river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of
+ the Maddalena, consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of
+ Borgo being disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the
+ bank to the centre of 60. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built
+ in 1322, is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood
+ uninjured the great flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three
+ hours a height till then unknown, and swept away with irresistible
+ fury all the other bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and
+ embankments. The two villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of
+ the Baths of Lucca are _Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_
+ on the right bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On
+ the hill behind Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By
+ the side of the Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and
+ about 100 feet above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernab. Ashort way
+ westward, overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse,
+ and immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the
+ exclusive use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses,
+ is the Bagno Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the
+ Bagno San Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini's Hotel and
+ Pension, next the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the
+ opposite side of the river, in Il Serraglio, are the New York, and
+ the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the river by the right bank,
+ along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is another village, which is
+ also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa+, the most
+ beautifully situated of the three. _Hotels:_ At the entrance of the
+ village, the H. and P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on
+ which the bathing establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion
+ and the Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension
+ price in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_
+ First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1 fr. Numerous furnished houses to let.
+ From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months.
+
+ The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance.
+ The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very
+ similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse,
+ 85 Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133 Fahr. The principal
+ ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda
+ and magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter
+ being 15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of
+ La Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but
+ their principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them
+ sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, agreat deal of
+ the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with more
+ reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the charming
+ walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the greater
+ part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is
+ beautiful--steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks rise
+ on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend their
+ way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points of
+ various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to
+ October.
+
+
+[Headnote: PISTOJA. CATHEDRAL--BAPTISTERY--PAL. MUNICIPALE--S. ANDREA.]
+
+ miles from PISA
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{40}{21}
++PISTOJA+ (pop. 13,600). _Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both
+in the Piazza Cino. Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1fr.;
+portmanteau, 20 c. Next the H.Inghilterra is the church of S.Giovanni,
+erected at the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and
+white marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be
+by Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza
+Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the
+lofty Campanile, the "Torre del Podesta," which rises above all the
+other buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, aplain edifice, built
+in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by A. della
+Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and Giovanni
+Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to the
+jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing an
+assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is
+represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. The altar of
+the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid silver. It is
+generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man will uncover it
+for 2fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 years (1314-1466),
+and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith's work of that time in
+Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in its execution. Below
+the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the _Baptistery_, begun
+1339 (by C. di Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate
+layers of black and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle.
+The font is quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the
+13th cent. Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit.
+Adjoining is the Palazzo del Podest (now the seat of the Tribunale
+Civile), constructed in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and
+soffits of the massive arches are covered with the armorial bearings of
+the former mayors of the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are
+still the stone-seats and tables where they sat in judgment. Opposite is
+the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down the street,
+the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured terra-cotta frieze.
+Near the two hotels is the church of _S. Maria dell' Umilta_, built in
+1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari.
+Near it is _S. Andrea_ (12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the
+entrance door, and in the interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured
+by Giovanni da Pisa, 1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates
+this piece of elaborate sculpture, when it is seen to still greater
+advantage. Between the two last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, with
+such a quantity of frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory,
+that even the visitor on entering feels himself among clouds also. In
+the Piazza Prato is S.Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar
+pieces. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas
+de Weston, Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived
+from the name of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a
+very early date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia,
+B.C. 62, and the precise spot where he is said to have fallen is marked
+by a tower.
+
+Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages at
+Pistoja.
+
+11 m. from Florence and 50 m. from Pisa is Prato, pop. 13,100.
+_Hotels:_ Giardinetto, Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and
+defended by a castle built by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior
+of the Cathedral are faced with white and green marble in bands. The
+nave has columns of serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by
+Filippo Lippi, and in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365).
+
+
+[Headnote: FLORENCE. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
+
+61 m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. from
+Turin, 82m. from Bologna, 134m. from Piacenza, 196m. from Rome, and
+60m. from Leghorn.
+
++FLORENCE+, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. _Hotels and Apartments:_ On the
+right or north side of the Arno, the Grand Htel Royal de la Paix; de la
+Ville; Grand Htel d'Italie; Washington; Grand Htel Nueva York; Gran
+Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the Paix, the Russie. All these
+hotels have a south exposure, and are greatly run after in winter.
+Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, according to the room. The following
+charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are situated in the new streets a little
+way back from the Arno, and near the Cascine or Park of Florence
+(north-west side of plan):--Htel and Pension Corona d'Italia, Via
+Montebello; Htel and Pension Iles Britanniques in No. 42; and Htel and
+Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are
+also furnished apartments at from 250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Htel
+and Pension Couronne d'Angleterre, Via Solferino; Htel and Pension
+Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the Universo in the Corso Vitt.
+Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, and charging rather less than
+the above, the Htel Milan No. 12 Via Cerretani; Htel and Pension
+Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of same street, Htel Bonciani,
+with front also to the Piazza S.Maria Novella. Near the bridge La Santa
+Trinit, and in the Via Tornabuoni are the Europe and Nord. In the Via
+Porta Rossa the Htel Porta Rossa; in the Via della Spada the Ville de
+Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in the Piazza S.Maria Novella
+(near the station) Htel Roma; Minerva; Bonciani, with furnished
+apartments; and by the side of the station, La Posta and Rebecchino. In
+the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses for Sesto Fiorentino and a
+large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for visiting the sights, and not
+expensive (from 7 to 9frs. per day), are the H. d'Espagne above the
+Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile d'Italie in theV. Calzaioli. Pension
+Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le Phoenix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in
+which also single rooms are let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del
+Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di S.Maria Novella; Htel and Pension
+Rudolfo, Via della Scala. Furnished apartments all over the town. Just
+outside the Porta Romana, in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments
+cost from 250 to 400 frs. the month. The most expensive as well as the
+most fashionable are those situated on the right bank of the Arno; but
+in the streets a little way back from the Arno apartments can be had for
+less. It is of very great importance in winter to have bedrooms with a
+south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold even on a sunny
+day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very moderate rates in
+restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both in the Via
+Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via Calzaioli,
+between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti and Co., 5
+Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well.
+
+_Protestant Churches._--American Church, 17 Via dei Serragli; American
+Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, 5 Via del Maglio;
+Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini.
+
+_Cab Tariff._--The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 P.M. to 6 A.M.),
+1fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1f. 30c.; every successive
+half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. Omnibuses run
+between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. Fare, 10 c.;
+Sundays, 15c.
+
+[Headnote: HINTS AND DIRECTIONS.]
+
+Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of the
+Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best
+plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria,
+and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little
+guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and
+statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider's is published in
+English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for
+Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works,
+_Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister and
+Co., London, and volume 3 of _Hare's Cities of Italy_.
+
+ [Map: Florence]
+
+It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander
+into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure
+by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately,
+are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the
+Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the
+Tribuna (p.238), containing the concentrated excellence of both
+galleries in painting and antique sculpture. Besides what are in the
+Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures in the Pitti, of which the most
+famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell' Educazione di Giove (see p.244).
+Michael Angelo's finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo
+(see p.265), but the best collection of his works is in the _National
+Museum_ (see p.261). His David is in the _Accademia delle Belle Arti_
+(see p.272). In the National Museum is the best collection of sculpture
+by great _Italian Artists_, such as Michael Angelo, G.Bologna, Luca and
+Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano,
+Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in
+the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of
+the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or
+Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but
+particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached
+to St. Lorenzo), S.Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are open
+from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till six.
+The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their
+cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of Del
+Carmine (page 252). Best painting by Cimabue, aMadonna, executed in
+1240, in the Rucellai chapel of S.Maria Novella (page 268). Best
+frescoes by D.Ghirlandaio on the chancel or recess occupied by the high
+altar in S.Maria Novella (page 268). Best frescoes of A. del Sarto in
+the narthex of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the
+first and second chapels of S.Croce (page 260). Of the palaces the best
+are the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and the
+Palazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view of Florence is from the top of
+the dome; the ascent is very easy. The pleasantest drive, with views, is
+to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the Porta Romana and the Boulevards
+Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo (page 249), studded with
+handsome villas.
+
+[Headnote: PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. LOGGIA DELL' ORCAGNA. NATIONAL
+LIBRARY.]
+
+At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the _Ponte
+Vecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each side. By
+referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the Pitti
+Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this
+bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S.Maria,
+leading to the +Piazza della Signoria+. From the north-west corner of
+the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the Via Calzaioli, leads
+to the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern corner the street called the
+Borgo de' Greci leads into the +Piazza Santa Croce+. It is of great
+importance to understand the relative position of these three squares.
+The chief feature of the Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_,
+afine specimen of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274).
+On either side of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis
+and Philemon, by Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules
+and Cacus, also by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called
+the +Loggia dell' Orcagna+, from the name of the architect, or dei
+Lanzi, from the name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building.
+It was usual in the early period of the Republic to provide a space near
+the government-house where the people could meet and take part in public
+affairs; and for this purpose this open gallery was built opposite the
+Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. Five steps, running along the
+front, lead up to the platform, covered by a vaulted roof, supported on
+four arches, resting on three columns terminating in beautiful capitals
+of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament
+the entrance. The lion on the left is by F.Vacca, 17th cent.; the
+other, on the right, as well as the six statues of Sabine priestesses,
+along the inner wall, beautiful in attitude and drapery, are antiques,
+and were brought from the Villa Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under
+each arch, stand three separate groups, by celebrated masters of the
+16th cent. To the right is the Rape of the Sabines, by G.Bologna, in
+1583. Originally this group was intended to represent Youth, Manhood,
+and Old Age. To the left the statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head
+of the sorceress Medusa, by B.Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of
+power and animation, but the head and body of the Medusa are represented
+streaming with blood with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith
+and Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of
+Polixena, amarble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an
+antique group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of
+Patrocles--restored by S.Ricci. Next it is the marble group, by
+G.Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this Piazza is
+also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of Bandinelli), 1571.
+It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over by a statue of
+Neptune (19 feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. Adjoining is a
+superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse is admirable.
+To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione (considered to have
+been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining the Loggia dei Lanzi
+are the extensive buildings "degli Uffizi," the great storehouse of art
+treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along the basement floor,
+extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari (1560-74), ornamented with
+24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On the same side as the Loggia
+is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). On the opposite side, at the second
+door from the end, is the entrance to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six
+doors farther down, the entrance to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, with
+about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be
+had for consultation in the reading-room by writing the name on a slip
+of paper. The National Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the
+Palatine Library collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library
+collected by Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the
+colonnade leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.
+
+
+ [Illustration: Plan of the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries]
+
+[Headnote: UFFIZI GALLERY--VESTIBULES--CORRIDORS.]
+
++Galleria degli Uffizi.+
+
+Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.'s near the
+portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern
+gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous
+collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar
+collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno
+by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by
+the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both
+collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the
+second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at
+the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into
+the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi,
+and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the
+western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go
+wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds,
+fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a
+small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes
+in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to
+enter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. Downstairs,
+outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli gardens.
+
+Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those who
+wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the galleries
+may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first vestibule are
+Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and sacrifices, and
+busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, CosmoI., FrancisI., and of others of
+the Medici. Second vestibule, more Roman statuary, and an inimitable
+Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole expressing admirably the growling
+ire kindling in an irritated animal. Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold,
+spirited, and true to nature. The horse, said to have belonged to the
+Niobes group, does not bear close examination.
+
+We now enter the eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceiling
+painted in arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable
+specimens of ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and
+members of the imperial family, Augusti et August. On the walls is hung
+a valuable and interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff
+gilded Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, aMadonna by
+Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St.
+Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. Amarked improvement in colour and
+grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, by Giotto, pupil of
+Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. Angelico; No. 24 a
+Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by P.Uccello; and No. 61 a
+Crucifixion by Lippi.
+
+[Headnote: TUSCAN SCHOOL--TRIBUNA.]
+
+From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls where
+the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as is
+shown on the plan, the +Scuola Toscana+, contained in three rooms, and
+consisting of 165 paintings, by M.Albertinelli, A. and C.Allori, B.
+Angelico, M.A. Anselmi. B.Bandinelli, Fra. Bartolommeo, G.Biliverti,
+S. Botticelli, A.Bronzino. F. Cambi, J.Casentino, Cigoli, P. di
+Cosimo, L. di Credi, F.Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P.Francesca, M.A.
+Franciabigio. A.L. Gentil, D. and R.Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, G.S.
+Giovanni, B.Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra F.Lippi. O.
+Marinari, Masaccio, T.Manzuoli, G. da Milano, F.Morandini. G. Pagani,
+M.Pasti, S. Pieri, A.Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G.Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il
+Rosso, G.F. Rustici.V. Salimbeni, C.Salviati, A. del Sarto,
+L.Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R.Vanni, O. Vannini, G.Vasari, Dom.
+Veneziano, A.Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, Volterrano. F.Zucchero.
+The earliest painters are in the inner room. Among the most remarkable
+of them are, B.Angelico, 1294. A. Botticelli, 1286, alarge picture,
+and 1289 and 1299. Fra. F.Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297.
+G. da Milano, 1293, in ten compartments. A.Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D.
+Veneziano, 1305.
+
+In the middle hall--Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265;
+Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F.Lippi, 1257 and 1268;
+Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da
+Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture.
+
+First hall--Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, one of
+his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; Leonardo da
+Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine.
+
+[Headnote: THE TRIBUNA.]
+
+Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the +Tribuna+,
+aplain 8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B.Buondelmonti,
+and painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five
+of the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the
+choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F.Barocci, Fra.
+Bartolommeo, A. and L.Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, A.Durer,
+Guercino, L.Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, B.Luini, Mantegna, Michael
+Angelo, L. d'Olanda, P.Perugino, Raphael, G.Reni, Giulio Romano,
+Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck,
+P.Veronese, and D.Volterra. Facing the door is the +Venus de Medici+,
+4 ft. 11 inches high, supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus,
+which, along with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the
+Villa Hadrian, in Tivoli, during the reign of CosmoIII. The group of
+the Wrestlers, exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn,
+attributed to Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that
+remains of the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael
+Angelo. In the _Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalid
+countenance, and the short neglected hair, express admirably the
+character of a slave, still more plainly written on his coarse hard
+hands and wrinkled brow. Among the paintings, six are by Raphael--all
+gems. 1120 Portrait of a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the
+Fornarina, every hue as perfect as if transferred to the canvas by the
+sun--the expression is pert; 1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well),
+attributed also to Franciabigio, beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in
+the Desert, colouring tawny, but admirable light and shade; 1129 the
+Madonna del Cardellino (nightingale), one of Raphael's best works,
+painted when he was 22; 1131 Portrait of JuliusII., considered one of
+the finest portraits in the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti
+Gallery, and in the National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits
+by Raphael of this impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by
+Michael Angelo. This picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits
+powerful drawing with dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St.
+Francis and St. John, called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del
+Sarto--rich but subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the
+famous recumbent Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by
+Correggio--wonderful colouring.
+
+[Headnote: THE ITALIAN SCHOOL.]
+
+Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the +Tribuna+,
+and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French
+schools, and the collection of gems. +The Italian+, or more properly the
+Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, D.Ambrogi.
+Baroccio, J.Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, Canaletto, A.Caracci, G. da
+Carpi, G.Carpioni, B. Castiglione, M.Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio.
+Domenichino, B. and D.Dossi. C. Ferri, D.Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo,
+L.Giordano, Giorgione, F.Granacci, J. Guercino. J.Ligozzi, B. Luini.
+A.Magnasco, A. Mantegna, L.Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi,
+Moretto da Brescia. Palma (both), G.P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P.Piola,
+C. Procaccino, S.Pulzone. G. Reni, P.Reschi, S. Rosa. E.Savonazzi, J.
+Scarsellino, B.Schidone, F. Solimena. A.Tiarini, Tinelli, Tintoretto,
+Tiziano, A.Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P.Veronese, A. Vicentino.
+B.Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are Guido Reni, 998
+Madonna; Parmigianino, 1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio,
+1016 Child's Head; A.Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap;
+Caravaggio, 1031 Medusa.
+
+[Headnote: THE DUTCH, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH SCHOOLS.]
+
+_The Dutch School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by
+Berkeyden, Borch, G.Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, Netscher,
+O.Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with Holy Family.
+R.Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, Van der Heyden,
+Van der Werf, Van Kessel.
+
+_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157
+paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of
+Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847
+Luther and Melancthon. C.Gell or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape,
+considered the gem of this department. G.Dow, 786 Schoolmaster.
+A.Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765
+Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin
+Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best
+pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits.
+Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a Madonna.
+
+_The French School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most
+noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of
+Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and
+afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame
+do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Svign. N. Poussin, 680
+Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet.
+
+[Headnote: ROOM OF GEMS.]
+
+_The Room of Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to
+view statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made
+of lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise,
+and gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article,
+acasket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of
+Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who
+presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of
+Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by
+Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here
+are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into
+the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into
+Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round
+altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth
+extracting a Thorn, areplica of the more famous statue in the Vatican;
+145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept in the
+little office in the corner of this corridor).
+
+[Headnote: THE VENETIAN SCHOOL--PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS.]
+
++West Corridor+ and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both sides,
+and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later date
+than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the
++Venetian School+, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four
+contain portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind
+the Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins.
+The 82 pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are by
+twenty-five great masters, T.Bassano, G. Bellini, P.Bordone, C.
+Caliari, D.Campagnole, Giorgione, L.Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto,
+Morone, G.Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo,
+A.Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P.Veneziano, C. Veronese,
+P.Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the immortal
+Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) and of the
+Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della RovereI.; of "Flora," called his
+Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of CosimoI. (614); and of Sansovino
+(596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy Family; 609 Battle between the
+Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618
+Sketch of Virgin and Child for his celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at
+Venice. P.Veronese, 589 Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before
+Ahasuerus, and 636 The Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in
+Cana. In the next two rooms are +Portraits of Artists+ of all nations,
+from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338)
+of Card. Leopoldo de' Medici, and in the middle of the hall the
+celebrated +Medici Vase+ (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in
+relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke
+Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with
+200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable are--288
+Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 Rubens; 232
+Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; 374, 384,
+and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; 546 Sir
+Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall of
+portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and stairs
+leading to the Pitti Gallery. See page 243. +Sala delle
+Iscrizione.+--The walls are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions,
+arranged in 12 divisions according to the subject. In this room are also
+some very interesting ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso
+of a Faun. _Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite._--The most important piece of
+sculpture here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion's skin,
+avaluable Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering.
+_Cabinet of Cameos._--A very precious collection of ancient and modern
+cameos, statuettes, and enamels, including those presented by Sir
+William Currie in 1863.
+
+[Headnote: THE HALL OF NIOBE.]
+
+_Sala del Baroccio._--Against the walls are beautiful tables in
+pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the room by
+Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall contains 172
+pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in size and
+merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or "The Virgin
+interceding with her Son;" 163 is Susterman's portrait of Galileo; 191,
+by Sassoferrato, aMadonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce's best works, "St.
+Galla Placida." +Sala della Niobe.+--The hall of Niobe was built in
+1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the famous statues supposed
+to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found near the Porta S.Paolo
+at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her children struck by
+thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the finest and most
+powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are round the cold,
+flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his separate pedestal, the
+illusion of design and composition is not only destroyed but individual
+criticism invited, atest all of them cannot bear. It is believed that
+originally they formed a group on the pediment of a temple. Niobe is
+rather large, nearly nine heads high, but the child she protects is
+without a fault in form. This group is of one piece of marble. All the
+others are in single figures. But the soul and source of all that is
+interesting in these statues is the wonderful figure of the wounded and
+dying youth, represented lying on his back, his legs just crossing each
+other, the left hand reclining on his breast, and his right arm slightly
+raised. As a statue, it commands the highest admiration, and as a chaste
+and powerful picture of death, the keenest sympathy. Behind the statue
+of Niobe is a very large picture by Rubens--Henri IV. at the battle of
+Ivry--a performance of wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite
+it, 147 The entry of Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, aportrait; 152
+Honthorst, Fortune-teller.
+
+[Headnote: THE HALL OF BRONZES.]
+
+_Sala dei Bronzi._--In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most
+remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso
+428 found near Leghorn--a torso is the trunk of a statue that has lost
+the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a youth,
+5feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in 1530. The
+pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. Atablet containing a list of the
+Roman Decurions, dated A.D. 223. _Galleria Feroni._--In this room are
+arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of
+which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, byC. Dolce; A Butcher's Shop,
+by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by B.Schidone. Outside, in
+the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali Paoli, the Corsican patriot,
+by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the
+master of Claude Lorraine.
+
+
+[Headnote: THE WAY FROM THE UFFIZI TO THE PITTI GALLERIES.]
+
+THE CONNECTING GALLERIES.
+
+Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and
+stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of
+Francesco de' Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of
+"Abundance" in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The
+walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are
+covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting
+a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time.
+The corridor on the +Ponte Vecchio+ crossing the Arno is occupied with a
+glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first part of
+the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous portraits
+of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage behind the
+Via Guicciardini) avast collection of tapestry, executed in the 16th
+and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are those representing
+the festivities at the marriages of HenryII. with Catherine de' Medici,
+and of Henry IV. with Maria de' Medici, executed in 1560 after designs
+by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a short stair ascends to a room hung
+with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, or in one colour, by several of
+the old painters. From this another short stair leads to the long narrow
+gallery on the wall of the Boboli gardens. This gallery is hung with
+water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo Ligozzi, in 1695, representing
+with wonderful truthfulness, figures of birds, fishes, and plants. To
+these illustrations of natural history succeeds a series of miniature
+paintings of scenes in the life of our Lord. Now we come to the common
+stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti Gallery, and downwards to the
+door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next the gate leading into the
+Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a large vestibule, with a
+window looking into the gardens. The names of the Sale and Stanze (Halls
+and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room is provided with two of
+these catalogues, one in Italian and another in French. The halls are
+painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and rich tables of
+Florentine mosaic.
+
+
+THE PITTI GALLERY.
+
+The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell' Illiado_, painted by Sabatelli
+in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of "Charity," by Bartolini.
+Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his
+Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, aConcert, is a remarkable
+picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is
+represented by some of his best portraits:--No. 200, PhilipII. of
+Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de' Medici; 215, Portrait; and 228, the
+Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P.
+Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, S. Rosa, his own Portrait;
+and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, aPrince of Denmark. 224, Rod.
+Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. 230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col
+lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--HALLS OF SATURN, JUPITER, MARS, APOLLO.]
+
+_Sala di Saturno._--The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da
+Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:--151, Portrait of Pope
+JuliusII.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. The others
+by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of (171)
+Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, CharlesI. of England
+and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, aDeposition, by Perugino.
+
+_Sala di Giove._--Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of the
+room statue of "Victory," by Consani, and at the sides five Tables in
+Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of
+Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parc, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then
+follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by
+A.del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the lower
+corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials S.A.R.O.
+No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of G.Benci, by Leonardo da
+Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens.
+
+_Sala di Marte._--Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, Rubens,
+Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful paintings.
+The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. 94 is a
+Holy Family, also by him--called the "Impannata" or cloth window. No.
+81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del Sarto. 82,
+Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by Rubens. 96,
+Judith, by C.Allori.
+
+_Sala di Prometeo._--The Mosaic Table in this room, by Giorgi, occupied
+him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo Lippi.
+
+_Sala di Apollo._--Raphael has three portraits in this room:--59 and 61,
+M. and A.Doni; and 63, Leo X.Tiziano has some fine works:--No. 67,
+aMagdalene, shows his power in colour; and 54, Aretino, the poet, is
+one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by Murillo. 58, by A. del Sarto,
+Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the same subject
+admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo.
+
+_Sala di Venere_ (Venus).--Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and 15 are two
+most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella Donna, by
+Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L.Cardi (Il Cigoli).
+
+_Galleria Poccetti._--Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon by Canova.
+Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns in oriental
+alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and admirably
+executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by Card.
+Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in ivory,
+amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones.
+
+_Stanza della Giustizia._--Painted by Fedi. The beautiful ebony cabinet
+was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in this room is
+408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir Peter Lely,
+by request of FerdinandII. of Tuscany.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--ROOMS OF FLORA, ULLISSE, GIOVE.]
+
+_Stanza di Flora._--In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called
+also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the
+Venus de' Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to
+Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, FerdinandII., by
+Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the
+Shepherds, by Tiziano.
+
+_Stanza dei Putti._--Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large picture by
+Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher's Forest--Diogenes throwing away his
+drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael.
+
+_Stanza d' Ullisse._--Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait
+by Rubens of the favourite of JamesI., George Villiers, Duke of
+Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by
+Ligozzi. 297, PaulIII., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by Sal.
+Rosa.
+
+_Stanza del Bagno._--This, the bath-room, is tastefully fitted up with a
+mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, and four marble
+statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni.
+
+_Stanza dell' educazione di Giove._--Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna
+del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti
+Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by
+Velasquez. 248, a"Descent" by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra.
+Bartolommeo.
+
+_Stanza della Stufa._--The frescoes on the walls, representing the Four
+Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the nephew of Michael
+Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by
+Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique
+statues in niches, acolumn of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain vase
+with a likeness of NapoleonI., and two justly celebrated bronze statues
+of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupr of Siena, and cast by Papi in 1849.
+
+
+THE BOBOLI GARDENS.
+
+Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend to
+the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass
+through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and
+feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the
+office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the
+corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders
+and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses,
+encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more
+like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial
+grotto, with, in front, agroup byV. Rossi, and a Venus by G.Bologna;
+and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael Angelo, intended
+for the monument of JuliusII. at Rome, and presented to CosmoI. by
+L.Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is the Amphitheatre; within the
+centre a granite obelisk and a large granite basin from Egypt, but
+brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the palace, near the Porta Romana,
+is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in marble by G.Bologna. In the
+flower-garden "del Cavaliere," are two more fountains, with monkeys in
+bronze, by the same artist, and a small villa, from the top of which
+there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the highest part of the gardens,
+facing the palace, is a colossal statue of Dovizia (Abundance),
+commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil Dacca.
+
+[Headnote: PITTI PALACE.]
+
+THE PITTI PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, aFlorentine merchant, in
+1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished
+building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but
+not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The faade is 659
+feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by
+the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed
+the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and
+Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto
+covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented
+with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in
+bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal Chapel. Above the altar
+is an ivory crucifix by G.Bologna. At the end of the portico, to the
+left, adoor opens into the court, in which is the entrance into the
+room containing the splendid _Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Cellini
+and Maso Finiguerra, and ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the
+famous artist in wax, has likewise some of his works here. The state
+apartments are sumptuously furnished.
+
+
+[Headnote: TRIBUNA GALILEO--MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. ANATOMICAL
+PREPARATIONS IN WAX.]
+
+Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the
+house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. Alittle farther up
+the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the
+
+MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE,
+
+in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both open
+on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule is an
+old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3feet in diameter, probably by
+Ignazio Dante, afamous astronomer, brought to Florence by CosmoI. He
+died in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or Tribuna di Galileo.[*]
+Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the table. The
+statue of him is by A.Costoli. In the niche to the right are his
+telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by himself, and by
+which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the niche on the left
+are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical instruments
+belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 and dissolved
+in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince Leopold de'
+Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating scenes in the
+life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of Galileo, taken
+from the body when it was removed to its present resting-place in the
+church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the excellent and
+comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections are admirably
+arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department contains the
+herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to have collected
+about the year 1563; of P.A. Micheli, collected about the year 1725; of
+Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; of Labillardire, who
+accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New Holland; of
+R.Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the Englishman, P.B.
+Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this museum. But the most
+wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical preparations in wax,
+chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, under the direction of
+Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great works of the great
+painters, they are executed with the most minute care and truthfulness
+to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the cuttle-fish or of
+the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the most delicate
+organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve rooms, entered
+from the shell department, by the door lettered "Ittiologia," opening
+into the Zootomia.
+
+ [Footnote *: The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any
+ large niche. But the real meaning of the word "Tribuna" is the
+ semicircular cavity at the extremity of a Roman basilica, where
+ the judges sat. In the early ages of the church some of these
+ buildings were given to the Christians for public worship, who
+ still retained their secular name, and worshipped in them without
+ consecration.]
+
+
+THE HOUSE OF GALILEO,
+
+at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by
+which, in 1536, CharlesV. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. An omnibus
+runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side there is a
+cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the omnibus for the
+Certosa (see page 250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three
+broad roads--the lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the
+Certosa; the centre one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del
+Poggio Imperiale; while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first
+of a series of magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble
+terrace the Piazza Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio
+to the Royal Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the
+Instituto della Annunziata, aboarding-school for girls. From it ascend
+by the Via del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road
+to the right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the
+house in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which
+when blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was
+born in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, aplain building, is
+indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep
+little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower
+(Torre del Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations.
+It contains several relics of the great astronomer--a telescope, table,
+and chairs, abust of him taken after death (il piu antico che si
+conosca), apen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by Salvatelli, asmaller
+portrait of him by P.Leoni, 1624. From the farmhouse a steep narrow
+road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza Michelangiolo and
+the Porta Romana.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAN MINIATO.]
+
+THE PIAZZALE MICHELANGIOLO.
+
+There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk or
+drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of S.Miniato.
+They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the Arno, two bridges
+higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are distinctly seen from the
+Lung' Arno. The nearest way to approach them on foot is, having crossed
+the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio), walk
+up the left bank of the Arno, passing the Piazza containing the fine
+marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, by L.Bartolini, in 1835,
+and continue the walk up the river till arrival at a square tower in the
+Piazza della Molina, whence commence the ascent by the stairs and road
+the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it from the Porta Romana by the fine
+avenues the Viali Machiavelli and Galileo, bordered by trees and
+handsome villas, disclosing as they wind round the steep sides of the
+hills a succession of ever-varying views. The Piazzale Michelangiolo is
+a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the Arno, commanding a grand
+prospect, and adorned with five statues in bronze, copies by C.Papi of
+Michael Angelo's famous works. To the right is the Viale Michelangiolo,
+the carriage road leading down to the Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the
+suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). Above the Piazzale, by the convent
+church of San Salvatore del Monte (built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the
++Basilica of San Miniato+, one of the earliest (1013) as well as one of
+the most perfect structures in the Byzantine style. Internally it is 165
+feet long by 70 wide, and is divided longitudinally into aisles by
+pillars of classical design. The faade is faulty. The tower was erected
+in 1519. The floor of the nave is considerably under the level of the
+chancel, which terminates in a semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed
+in 1247, and of the same kind as those of St. Mark's at Venice. Behind
+the altar are five small windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble.
+Between the stairs leading up to the chancel is the chapel constructed
+in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie the remains of Gualberto, the founder of
+the church and of the order of Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north
+aisle is the chapel of Cardinal Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by
+B.Rossellino, and the beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca
+della Robbia. On the south side is the Sacristy (built in 1387),
+exquisitely painted in fresco by Spinello Aretino, representing scenes
+in the life of St. Benedict. In the centre of the nave is a curious
+piece of Byzantine pavement, executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the
+crypt, supported on 38 marble columns, several being prolongations of
+those above. Under the altar is the tomb of San Miniato. From the
+terraces of the adjoining cemetery there are splendid views of Florence
+and of the valley of the Arno.
+
+
+THE CERTOSA.
+
+From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at
+the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3 miles
+distant; fare, fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the
+grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading
+up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely
+situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is
+now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars
+of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At
+the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the
+convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal
+to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see
+the convent, fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a
+fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento
+style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco
+by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls,
+and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of
+S.Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity of
+the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the mausoleum
+of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs over the
+tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, anarrow cloister with eight
+small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, 1560; Cappella del
+Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by Albertinelli, and in
+the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by Stogallo, 1545; then
+the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and bedroom. He was a
+prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are obtained from various
+parts. In passing through the villages women may be seen plaiting
+straw--a standard occupation in Tuscany.
+
+[Headnote: BELLO SGUARDO. MONTE OLIVETO.]
+
++Views.+--From the Porta Romana commences also the road to the Bello
+Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about a mile distant), both commanding
+splendid views of the city, of the valley of the Arno, and of the
+surrounding mountains. Immediately outside the Porta turn to the right,
+and walk by the side of the city wall by the Via Petrarcha till the
+second road on the left, the Via de Casone, by which continue to ascend
+till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello Sguardo. By it
+ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell' Ombrellino, where at the
+house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the pavilion of this house;
+fee, fr. To go from this to Monte Oliveto descend to the Via di Bello
+Sguardo, and from a house with a high railing turn to the right by the
+"Via di Monte Oliveto Per S.Vito," and descend to a large gateway and
+house on the left hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte
+Oliveto, then walk forward past the old convent, now a military
+hospital, to the top of the knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the
+view. Now descend by the Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the
+hill, enters the Via Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta
+S.Frediano, whence an omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If
+preferred, the tour may be commenced at this end, taking the omnibus
+from the Piazza to the Porta.
+
+[Headnote: SANTO SPIRITO. SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.]
+
+SANTO SPIRITO AND SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.--By referring to the plan it
+will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are
+two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous
+frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino Lippi (b.
+1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in which Luther
+preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. The present
+church of the S.Spirito was commenced in 1446 by F.Brunelleschi,
+destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 according to
+Brunelleschi's design. The belfry, which is of admirable proportions,
+was erected by B. d'Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and 191 at the
+transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of the aisles
+rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of pietra-serena,
+brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church are 38
+semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro Allori,
+Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del Garbio,
+Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, and Cosimo
+Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th chapel from
+entrance to church, aMadonna by Lippi. In left transept, 19th and 20th
+chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. 22d chapel, an
+Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the most remarkable
+work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, aPieta, by Baccio
+Bigio, acopy of the group by Michael Angelo in St. Peter's, Rome. The
+proportions of the dead body of our Lord are admirable, and the ribs,
+loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully marked. Before the choir is a
+screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze and rich marbles, and
+although rather out of place, full of beautiful details. The high altar,
+under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of rare porphyry,
+is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni Caccini. Adoor
+in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the joint work of San Gallo
+and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. In the sacristy a door
+to the right opens into the cloisters, by A.Parigi, adorned with
+frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and Cascetti.
+
+[Headnote: BRANCACCI CHAPEL.]
+
+The church +Del Carmine+ was erected in 1475, destroyed by fire in 1771,
+and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and Mannaconi. Among the parts which
+escaped destruction in 1771 was the Brancacci chapel, at the end of the
+western or right transept, covered with valuable frescoes, in 12
+compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and Masolino da Panicale. The four
+principal subjects are (left wall) "Christ directing St. Peter to take a
+coin from a fish's mouth to pay the tribute," by Masaccio, whose
+portrait is given in the last apostle to the right; "the Restoration to
+Life of the Emperor's Nephew," painted by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio.
+On the right wall are-- "St. Peter raising Tabitha," by Masolino; "the
+Crucifixion of St. Peter;" and "St. Paul before the Proconsul," by
+Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said to have been studied by
+Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo. Of the eight
+small subjects, "The Expulsion of Adam and Eve," and "St. Peter and St.
+John Healing the Sick by means of their Shadows," on the left wall; "St.
+Peter Baptising," and "St. Peter Distributing Alms," on the right wall,
+are all by Masaccio. "The Visit of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison," on
+the left wall, and "the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison," on the
+right wall, are by Lippi. "Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,"
+and "St. Peter Healing the Cripple," are ascribed by some to Masolino,
+by others to Masaccio. In the opposite arm of the transept is the
+Corsini chapel, with large marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes
+on the ceiling by Luca Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some
+frescoes discovered in 1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also,
+and with more probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the
+life of St. Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some
+fragments of which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the
+Royal Institution, Liverpool.
+
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--DOME--ASCENT.]
+
+ The Duomo, 252. The Campanile, 255. The Baptistery, 256.
+ Il Bigallo, 257. San Michele, 257. Santa Croce, 258. The National
+ Museum, 261. La Badia, 263. The House of Michael Angelo, 263.
+
+The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria del Fiore was commenced by
+Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone laid on the 8th of September
+1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate ever sent to
+Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. In 1330
+Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea Pisano,
+continued the work according to Arnolfo's design. Giotto died in 1337.
+To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea Orcagna.
+In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and completed it in all
+its essential parts before his death, which took place in 1446. In 1469
+Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper ball and cross. The dome,
+built without timber centrings, consists of two vast vaults, an interior
+and an exterior, both supported by strong ribs at the right angles, and
+surrounded at the base by a strong iron chain. From the floor to the top
+of the dome the height is 300 feet, the lantern 52 more, and to the top
+of the cross other 35. The total height therefore is, from the floor to
+the top of the cross, 387 feet. The circumference of the dome is 466
+feet. Three galleries are carried round the drum. The first is reached
+by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; and the third, which runs round
+the top of the drum and the base of the dome, by other 65 steps. The
+appearance of the church from the first and third galleries is most
+striking. Outside the third gallery commences the cornice gallery of the
+dome. From this part 180 steps (between the two vaults) lead to the top
+of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to the ball the ascent is made
+up through the lantern by 32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in
+marble, and 23 in wood. The number of steps, therefore, from the floor
+into the ball is 528; the only difficult part being the vertical bronze
+bear-like ladder in the lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little
+can be seen (and that little with difficulty) from an aperture in the
+ball. But the view from the gallery at the top of the dome is truly
+magnificent. Florence and neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on
+a map, and as the clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest
+objects being seen distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery
+as early as possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234),
+apractical acquaintance with the topography of the city. To the N.E.,
+by the Piazza Cavour and the stream Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3miles
+distant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on the
+Arno, is the Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of
+trees, on the other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250).
+To the S.E., on the other side of the Arno, are the Piazzale
+Michelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece beyond is
+the Torre del Gallo (page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli
+Gardens and the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be
+found in south sacristy.
+
+The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 feet.
+The breadth, including the aisles, is 132 feet, and the superficial
+area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area occupied by
+Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone of
+the gorgeous new faade, coated, like the whole exterior of the church,
+with polished white marble, and dark magnesian serpentine disposed in
+chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement often met with in the
+churches of Italy.
+
+[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO'S LAST WORK.]
+
+In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of the
+nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the
+magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not
+struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively
+unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble
+pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and
+stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the
+narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated
+octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues
+of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and
+Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d'Agnolo, and the
+reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents
+the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G.Vasari, in 1572, and the
+rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of Queen
+Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular windows,
+which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the twenty-seven
+long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi da Gambassi,
+Bernardo de' Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind the altar is
+the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of age), an
+_unfinished Pieta_, aheroic group, large but not colossal, composed of
+four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and an
+Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the melancholy but placid
+countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination of the head lacerated
+by the crown of thorns. The Mask, Michael Angelo's first work, is in the
+sixth room of the National Museum, along with some other works of the
+great sculptor. His greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, see
+page 266. The reliefs in terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of
+the sacristies, are considered amongst the best works of Lucca della
+Robbia. On the pier at the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St.
+James, by Sansovino; and just behind it, on the wall, is a painting by
+Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing Dante (holding in his hands
+a copy of his poems), with a view of Florence in the background, the
+only monument the Republic raised to him they had so unjustly banished.
+In the north transept, covered by the wooden floor, just under the iron
+bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, formed by P.Toscanelli in 1408,
+and repaired by A.Ximines in 1756. The line drawn on the true pavement,
+under the present boarded floor, runs in a direction nearly at right
+angles to the nave (the nave being nearly east and west). It is only
+about 30 feet long, and receives the image of the sun, at and near the
+solstice, in June and July; at other seasons the image is lost on the
+sides of the cupola. The short diameter of the image in July is about 36
+inches. The height of the aperture, through which the ray enters by a
+window of the cupolina, is 277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure;
+so that, as the inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--MONUMENTS--CAMPANILE.]
+
+Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main
+entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood,
+acaptain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at Florence
+in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, is by
+Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble monument
+and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. Cavalcanti. The
+third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. The beautiful
+water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern entrance, in
+front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a sitting posture,
+of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi Pampaloni, in 1830. To
+the right of Arnolfo's statue, at house No. 29, is a stone in the wall,
+bearing the words "Sasso di Dante," because on it the poet used to sit
+watching the progress of the cathedral from its commencement till 1301,
+when he was compelled to leave the city.
+
+At the southern entrance is the +Campanile del Duomo+, designed and
+commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This
+dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and
+beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys
+of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting
+from the summit, from which, according to Giotto's plan, aspire of 94
+feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of apostles,
+saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture subjects in bold
+relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, Niccolo Aretino,
+Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent by 414 steps.
+Fee, franc each visitor.
+
+[Headnote: THE BAPTISTERY--GATES--ALTAR.]
+
+Adjoining the cathedral is the church of +San Giovanni+, the baptistery
+of the city, founded in 6th cent., and repaired and restored in 1293 by
+Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal building, 94 ft. in diameter,
+covered by a cupola and lantern built in 1550. Three celebrated bronze
+gates, of admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S.
+side (fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and,
+after twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The
+architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446,
+and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, byV.
+Danti, in 1571--a work full of expression. The N. gate is by Lorenzo
+Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished (modelled and
+cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty compartments,
+representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three statues above,
+and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, afellow-pupil of Michael
+Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the eastern end, facing the
+cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael Angelo said was worthy to
+form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel of art was commenced by
+Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and finished, with the exception
+of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when Ghiberti died, and left the
+remainder to be completed by his pupils, among whom were the brothers
+Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, representing as many scenes from
+the Old Testament. In grouping, drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures
+are truly admirable. The perspective is well sustained; the distant
+objects being done in low, the nearer objects in middle, and those close
+upon the eye in high relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by
+Sansovino, who, when he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling;
+but Danti, in 1560, produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a
+century afterwards, are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino's model.
+
+The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble
+pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes
+of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the
+soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing
+the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G.Gaddie, 13th cent. To the
+right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419),
+by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, placed here in
+1658, and attributed to G.Pisano. The silver altar of the Baptistery is
+kept in the "Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata del Duomo" (behind the
+east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen any day from 9 to 12,
+for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long series of years from
+1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents in bold
+relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 ft. long
+by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in 1452,
+weighs 14 lbs., and cross 140 lbs.
+
+[Headnote: THE BIGALLO.]
+
+Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the very
+beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to Orcagna,
+enclosed with iron gates by F.Petrucci. The oratory contains an image
+of the Virgin by A.Arnoldo, 1359; and a predella, with paintings, by
+Ghirlandaio.
+
+
+OR SAN MICHELE.
+
+Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del Duomo
+and della Signoria, is the +Or San Michele+, built at first of undressed
+stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or horreum. Having
+been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 under the
+direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the commonwealth. To
+Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to transform the lower
+part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper storey was converted
+into government offices. Round the building, in deep niches, are statues
+in simple attitudes and of noble dignified forms, the result of a decree
+that each trade should bear the expense of furnishing one statue, which
+should be the protector and supporter of its own profession. St. Luke,
+by John of Bologna (good specimen of his style), was executed at the
+expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. Thomas, by Verrochio, for the
+mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by L.Ghiberti, for the guild of
+foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by Donatello, for the butchers. John
+the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a graceful canopy of Robbia-ware,
+for the silk manufacturers. St. George, by Donatello, his noblest work,
+for the armourers. St. James, by N.Banco, for the tanners and furriers.
+St. Mark, by Donatello, for the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by
+Banco, for the blacksmiths and farriers. St. Stephen, by L.Ghiberti,
+for the wool-merchants. St. Matthew, by L.Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for
+the stockbrokers and money-changers. Statues of four canonised
+sculptors, by Banco, for the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by
+Banco, for the hosiers. And inside the church, to the left of the altar
+of St. Anne, aMadonna, by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and
+apothecaries. These statues are considered the finest works of the
+ancient Florentine school. Over the niches are the arms of the
+respective trades, under graceful canopies.
+
+In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high altar,
+by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino's sacred picture of
+the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is "Andreas Cionis pictor
+Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359." It is
+ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different
+pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The
+small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light
+into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an
+admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less
+admirably to a Fountain.
+
+
+SANTA CROCE.
+
+South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the
+narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in
+the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16 feet high, by Enrico
+Pazzi. It and the new faade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on
+the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa
+Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded
+Giotto in 1344. The faade, although only recently finished, is
+according to the old design of S.Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and owes its
+erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an English
+gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in 1871. The
+interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute Gothic
+arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, are of
+rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread out on
+the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the
+display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire
+length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the
+transepts 128 feet.
+
+[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO--DANTE. MACCHIAVELLI--KETTERICK--COUNTESS OF
+ALBANY.]
+
+Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St.
+Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by
+Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main
+entrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place of
+Michael Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument
+was designed by G.Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael
+Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by B.Lorenzione,
+one of the three. Next follows the great marble monument by S.Ricci, in
+1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in exile at Ravenna in 1321,
+in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, amonument to the poet Vit. Alfieri
+(d. 1803), by Canova, in 1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this
+monument is an elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470.
+4th. Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi,
+in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707,
+raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St.
+John and St. Francis, by A.Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone by
+Donatello; and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John
+Ketterick, Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a
+mission from HenryV. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument
+to L.Bruni (d. 1444), by B.Rossellini. The Virgin, above, is by
+A.Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of P.A.
+Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. Veneziani. Turning
+to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in London, 1859), and
+a slab on the ground, with an inscription by Boccaccio, in honour of the
+poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the Chapel of the Castellani, with
+frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of Giotto), and reredos by
+Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; at each side sarcophagi
+of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard and St. Francis, by L.
+della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the Countess of Albany,
+widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, 1824; age, 72
+years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the Countess of Albany
+follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos painting by
+Giotto, frescoes by T.Gaddi, and a Piet by Bandinelli.
+
+ A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the
+ cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the
+ sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from
+ the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes
+ and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), afavourite pupil of T.
+ Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the extremity of
+ the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance is a
+ shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the altar,
+ admirable specimens of L. Robbia's terra-cotta work. The large relief
+ is considered one of Robbia's masterpieces. The small door to the
+ right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo were
+ kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two
+ mausoleums--one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another
+ attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression.
+
+[Headnote: GIOTTO'S FRESCOES.]
+
+Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) frescoes
+of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second chapel,
+frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte chapel, is, to
+the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory of the wife of
+Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory of their
+daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or the first to
+the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with reredos by A.
+del Sarto. On the walls +Giotto's best frescoes+, representing the
+stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the
+Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S.Francesco, is
+by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and death
+of San Francesco.
+
+_Chapels of the Choir._--Over the high altar, painting by Andrea
+Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by Agnolo
+Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and the life
+of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much importance,
+excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in fresco by Luigi
+Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with frescoes on the roof,
+painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre Franceschini, surnamed _il
+Volterrano_. This chapel contains five mediocre statues by Francavilla,
+and two large paintings on wood by Alessandro Allori, and is also richly
+decorated with beautiful marbles. In the adjoining chapel, belonging to
+the Bardi family, is a crucifix by Donatello, one of his earliest and
+best works, yet not equal to that of his rival Brunelleschi in S. Maria
+Novella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska
+mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the
+composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. Having arrived at
+the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the north aisle, to
+avoid confusion it is better to return to the main entrance, and walk up
+the north aisle, commencing with the monument and resting-place of
+
+[Headnote: GALILEO--BARTOLINI'S LAST WORK.]
+
+GALILEO GALILEI,
+
+who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaph
+is his bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows
+the monument to Pompeio Josephi, ajurist; 3d, to G.Lani (1770), by
+Spinazzi,--on the column before this monument is a Piet by A.Bronzino;
+4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat pyramid; 5th, to Vitt.
+Fossombroni, by L.Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to Karolus Marzupinus, the
+learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by D.Settignano, 1450;
+7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to _Raffllo Morghen_, the
+illustrious Neapolitan engraver, abeautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti.
+Fronting it, on the column, is the monument to L.B. Alberti, the last
+work of Bartolini.
+
+To the south of the faade a large doorway gives access to the
+cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this
+enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi's best works.
+To the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing
+the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion
+and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco
+of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782.
+The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the
+refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli
+which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo.
+
+
+THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OR BARGELLO.
+
+At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the Piazzas
+Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the +National Museum+, in the Palazzo del
+Podest, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two Dominican
+friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, according to
+the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. When, in the
+17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the seat of the
+head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it was chosen
+for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1fr. Free on
+feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the escutcheons
+of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground floor are
+filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon cast in
+1636, and Donatello's seated lion, the +Marzocco+, or the +Arms of
+Florence+, aseated lion supporting a shield with its left paw. Ascend
+to the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in the court. It was built
+by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, are two bells, one cast
+in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni in 1670.
+
+[Headnote: SCULPTURE--MICHAEL ANGELO--BOLOGNA--CELLINI.]
+
+_First saloon._--All labelled. Principal objects--By _Michael Angelo_,
+Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an unfinished group
+of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. G. da Bologna,
+Virtue conquering Vice. Abeautiful series of reliefs, illustrating
+Music and its effects, chiefly by L.Robbia and Donatello. _Second
+room._--Furniture and glass ware. Wax group by Zumbo. _Third hall_, the
+audience chamber of the Podest.--Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled
+ware. _Fourth hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in
+which prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are
+chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east
+wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master
+Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by
+Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is
+thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see
+them must request the door to be opened. _Fifth saloon._--Two triptychs
+by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock crystal by Cellini, Bologna, and
+N.Pisano. Wood carving by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to
+the second floor.) _Saloons 6 and 7._--Sculptures by the best Italian
+artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the
+sixth saloon, Donatello's David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the
+centre, aChild by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by Bologna. David,
+by Verrochio. On the wall, abronze table by Pollaiolo, representing the
+Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on the right by Ghiberti, and
+the other on the left by Brunelleschi, prepared for the competition for
+the doors of the Baptistery of Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, afine
+ornament by Donatello. At the beginning of the third wall is a large
+bas-relief byV. Dante, representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert;
+and below it, another representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are
+followed by a cabinet full of sketches by the best artists of the 15th
+and 16th cents. After these, the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in
+Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and his model in bronze of the Perseus,
+under the loggia. Ascend now to the second floor by the stair in the
+fifth room. 1st room.--Portraits in fresco by A.Castagno (1450),
+transferred to canvas a few years ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante,
+Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room
+on the right.--Fine display of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and
+Andrea Robbia. Stained glass window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room
+(tower).--Tapestry 17th cent. 4th room (on the left of the
+entrance).--French tapestry and collection of coins. In the next two
+rooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Medival Sculpture+, which
+formerly stood in the galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John
+the Baptist, by Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano,
+1507, the Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room
+6, in the centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by
+Sansovino. Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St.
+Peter, by L.Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John
+(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year);
+Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall,
+bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance
+wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, aMadonna and a bust
+of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, aMadonna and a St. John.
+Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children
+supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna,
+by Verrochio.
+
+[Headnote: FLORENCE. LA BADIA--HOUSE OF MICHAEL ANGELO.]
+
+At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, is
++La Badia+, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines;
+rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by
+Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good
+monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome
+door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the
+right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On
+the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In
+the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni,
+d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of
+Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by G.Vasari,
+and in the Cappella de' Bianchi, aMadonna appearing to St. Bernard, by
+F.Lippi.
+
+A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, is
+the house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, aplain building, containing a
+collection of paintings, sculptures, and sundry objects connected with
+Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care of the State by the last member
+of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in 1858. The gallery is open to the
+public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 to 3. Catalogue in Italian or
+French, fr. The collection is contained in seven rooms, some very
+small. In the centre of the first room is a small bust of Michael
+Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at different ages. No. 14,
+Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in relief, by Michael
+Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed terra-cotta figures by the
+Robbias, displaying admirably the fine delicate surface of the enamel
+peculiar to their productions. Amongst those who have distinguished
+themselves in the manufactory of earthenware is Luca della Robbia,
+aFlorentine goldsmith and statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and
+human figures in relief, and architectural ornaments of glazed
+earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. The colours are white, blue, green,
+brown, and yellow. The art of making these glazed earthen figures
+invented by Luca was taught by him to his brothers Ottaviano and
+Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his nephew Andrea. The rooms
+to the left contain drawings and plans of Michael Angelo, many being the
+original sketches of his greatest works. First room right, the principal
+room of all, contains the statue of Michael Angelo in a sitting posture,
+by Novelli; and around the room sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in
+his life. The lower six are in grisaille. The ceiling is painted in
+fresco. The next or fourth room contains the family history, illustrated
+by twenty-one fresco paintings. In the small cabinet off this room are,
+among other things, atwo-edged sword with the Buonarrotti arms. In the
+fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, aMadonna in relief, on marble. 77,
+acast in bronze of 74, by Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, abust of
+Michael Angelo. Sixth room (the Library), large frescoes, representing
+the eminent men of Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room
+off, are Etruscan antiquities.
+
+
+ San Giovannino, 264. San Lorenzo, 264. The Mortuary Chapel. The
+ Sagrestia Nuova, 265. Biblioteca Laurentiana. Etruscan and Egyptian
+ Museum, 267. Santa Maria Novella, 267. Spezeria, 268. See Plan,
+ near station.
+
+[Headnote: SAN LORENZO. ROAD TO THE SAGRESTIA NUOVA. UNDERGROUND
+CHAPEL.]
+
+North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and next
+the Palazzo Riccardi (see page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino,
+rebuilt in the 16th cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life
+of Christ, by Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and
+Ligozzi. Afew yards west from San Giovannino is SAN LORENZO, considered
+in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan church of
+Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, when it
+was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and consecrated
+by Pope NicholasII. Having been destroyed by fire in 1417, during a
+festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs of Florence, it
+was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, and finished by
+Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form of a T, 400 feet
+long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. The aisles are
+lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian columns. The two
+pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in relief, by
+Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by Meucci. At
+the north transept is a monument in white marble by Thorwaldsen to
+Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the mortuary chapel. In
+the south transept is a monument to the memory of a daughter of General
+Moltke. Aslab at the foot of the high altar bears the title and age of
+CosmoI., but his remains repose in a black and white marble tomb in the
+subterranean church. [Headnote: MORTUARY CHAPEL.] Those pressed for time
+should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. Lorenzo, turn
+down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del Canto de' Nelli,
+to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse of San Lorenzo,
+which gives access to the burial chapel, "Dei Principi," of the Medici
+family, and to the still more famous chapel called the _Sagrestia
+Nuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every
+other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the
+left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. Guides offer their
+assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan alone can unlock
+the doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered with polished
+marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant harmony of
+colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are continued on the
+ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of P.Benvenuti, painted
+in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a monument to a member of the
+Medicean family, from CosmoI. to CosmoIII. (d. 1723), whose son,
+G.Gastone (d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the
+crypt or lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello
+near those of his patron CosmoI., as well as those of 35 other members
+of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of
+Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen
+cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in
+panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these
+princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and
+built by M.Nigetti in 1604, for FerdinandI., Duke of Tuscany, to
+receive the "great stone" which Joseph of Arimathea rolled "to the door
+of the sepulchre" of our Lord; and which had been promised him by the
+Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having fulfilled his
+promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his predecessor, CosmoI.,
+and had it converted into the burial chapel of the Medicean family.
+[Headnote: SAGRESTIA NUOVA.] From this chapel a short narrow passage
+leads to the +Sagrestia Nuova+, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing
+the monuments and mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and
+brother of Pope Leo X.; and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and
+father of Catherine of Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of
+Moses at Rome, are the greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the
+edifice was conceived by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were
+entrusted in 1521 to Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing.
+Aformal square chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble,
+supported by two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone
+called pietra dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the
+same tame, flat style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of
+Giuliano. He is represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand
+gloved and raised. The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which
+seems to yield to the pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the
+countenance. The two statues reclining on the urn represent Day and
+Night. Day is little more than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have
+done more would have weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is
+heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined.
+The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching
+expression--the drooping head and the supporting hand are unrivalled in
+the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The attitude of
+Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding as to have
+acquired for it the title of "il pensiero." Beneath are the
+personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a
+superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest
+and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right
+limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure
+of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought,
+an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as
+if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the
+altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the
+right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, apupil of Michael
+Angelo's, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo.
+
+[Headnote: BIBLIOTHECA LAURENTIANA.]
+
+A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of S.Lorenzo
+leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by Vasari, to the
+Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The books are kept in desks. Open from
+9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, 1fr. This library was founded by
+Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil
+of the 4th cent. in Roman capitals, not very different in form from the
+letters on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
+small quarto, with notes; the notes written in the 5th cent. by the
+Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, as his signature attests. This is one
+of the most ancient legible manuscript books in Europe of which the
+period is authentic. The manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library,
+with paintings, was said to be of the 4th cent., of the time of
+Constantine. The manuscripts of the middle ages, instead of being in
+Roman capitals, are written in letters resembling in some degree the
+small Roman printed letter now in use; and, at a still later period,
+they are in a running hand. This library also possesses the celebrated
+manuscript of the Pandects, supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in
+the 6th cent., written in capital letters, which vary a little from the
+capitals on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
+large folio book; it was brought from Pisa, and CosmoI. caused an
+edition to be printed from it by Lelio Torelli. ATacitus, of the 11th
+cent. is in a running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of
+manuscripts. Many of them are chained to the desks.
+
+[Headnote: ETRUSCAN MUSEUM.]
+
+Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza,No. 144, is
+the Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 to 4. Fee, 1fr. Free on
+Sundays.
+
+_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The
+earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the
+entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that
+in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the
+original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the
+Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits
+were invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase of
+Peleus, or vase of Franois, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near
+Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted
+by Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, Beautiful
+gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From this room a
+corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful bronze
+statue of Pallas Athene with the gis, and some fine Etruscan mirrors.
+_Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimra, one of the celebrated
+statues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. _Sixth Room_, Etruscan
+sculpture. Both of the gems of the collection are in this room--_The
+Orator_, abronze statue above life size, discovered near Lake
+Thrasymene; and an _Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 years
+buried in the earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years
+B.C. From this we enter, by a passage covered with inscriptions, into
+the Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the centre, aScythian war-chariot
+(the only specimen known), and by the side of it the remains of the
+Egyptian soldier who probably captured the chariot in battle. _Second
+Room_, The most interesting object here is the fresco of the _Last
+Supper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when only twenty-two. On the border of St.
+Thomas's dress are the date and name. In the last great hall are
+sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, idols, mummies, portraits, and
+tabernacles.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARIA NOVELLA.]
+
+Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral
+and S.Lorenzo, is the church of +Santa Maria Novella+, facing the
+piazza of the same name, adorned with two large obelisks of Serravezza
+Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine lilies in bronze, by G.Bologna,
+1608.
+
+[Headnote: RUCELLAI CHAPEL--GHIRLANDAIO--BRUNELLESCHI.]
+
+This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and
+finished in 1371. The faade was designed by L.Alberti, and erected at
+the expense of G.Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on the frieze,
+"Joannes Orcellarius, 1470." Affixed to it are gnomonic instruments,
+made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco over the
+principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a pupil of
+Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a
+remarkable fresco, aTrinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco
+attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the
+northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or
+right transept, up some steps, is the +Rucellai Chapel+. On the reredos
+of the altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his
+masterpiece. The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high
+altar, are covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D.Ghirlandaio,
+nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by B.
+d'Agnola, and the windows by G.Fiorentino. In the chapel on the left,
+or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden _Crucifix by
+Brunelleschi_. Acurtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up
+some steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A.Orcagna and his
+brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The
+open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where,
+immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin,
+by L.Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by G.Fortini.
+Alarge door in the west, or left aisle, opens into the cloister called
+the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the walls, by Paolo Uccello,
+1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted in green. Here the keeper,
+for a few sous, opens the door leading into the Cappella degli
+Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by the attendants of
+Eleonora de Toledo, wife of CosmoI. The ceiling and the left wall are
+covered with admirably conceived and executed frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi,
+while those on the right wall are by Simone Memmi. Adjoining is the
+Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by Cigoli, Allori, Tito,
+Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th cent., illustrative of
+the history of the Dominicans, with views of Florence in the background.
+At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or pharmacy
+of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a red liquor
+called Alkermes, aspecialty of Florence, resembling in taste the
+liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. It is also
+made and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains some
+beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by
+Spinello Aretino.
+
+
+ The Santissima Annunziata, 268. San Marco, 270. Picture-Gallery of
+ San Marco, 270. Academy of Fine Arts, 271. Galleria dei Lavori in
+ Pietre Dure, 273. North-east side of Plan.
+
+From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, leads
+straight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima Annunziata_ the
+only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at 12;
+but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 P.M. On the right side of the
+Piazza is the Spedale degli Innocenti, afoundling hospital designed by
+Brunelleschi, and ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with
+pretty terra-cotta figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre
+of the square is an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke FerdinandI., by
+Bologna, in 1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The +Church
+of the Annunziata+ was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria.
+At the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirable
+frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption
+by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J.Pontormo, 1516, pupil
+of A. del Sarto; aMarriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, 1513;
+aBirth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next picture, an
+Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; aNativity by
+A.Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del Sarto; Children being
+Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite Filippo Benizzi; aDead
+Child recalled to life by touching the Bier of Filippo; the Cure of a
+Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by Lightning who had insulted
+Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By Rosselli: Filippo assumes
+the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also the tomb of Andrea del
+Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini.
+
+[Headnote: THE ANNUNZIATA--NARTHEX FRESCOES. SACRED PICTURE.]
+
+The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S.Gallo.
+Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the
+windows are almost all by C.Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle are
+five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short
+transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a
+cupola painted by B.Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right transept is
+the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately behind the
+high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by B.Agnolo (1543), is
+the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who
+constructed this chapel for himself, and ornamented it with some of his
+best works. Under the organ in the second chapel is an Assumption by
+Perugino. In the third chapel is a Crucifixion by Stradano, his best
+work. In the fourth, acopy of Michael Angelo's "Judgment Day," by
+Allori. Next it, and to the left of the main entrance, is the chapel and
+shrine of the _Annunziata_, built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by
+forty-one silver lamps and one gold lamp glittering among costly
+polished stones. Over the altar is an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro
+Cavallini (d. 1364), said to have been done by angels. This picture is
+shown only once a year; but a duplicate of it, also by Cavallini, is in
+San Marco, on the wall to the right on entering. Over the altar is an
+"Ecce Homo," by An. del Sarto, in silver. Adjoining is the cloister
+built by S.Pollaiolo. Over the door opening into the church is a "Holy
+Family," by A. del Sarto, aproduction in the highest style of
+excellence, called the Madonna del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the
+background seated on a sack. The other fresco paintings in the cloister
+are by Poccetti, A.Mascagni, M. Rosselli, andV. Salimbeni (1542-1650),
+all displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is
+also the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of "St. Luke painting the
+Virgin," over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by
+Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito.
+
+[Headnote: S. MARCO--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
+
+By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the
+Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the +Church of S.Marco+
+(standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence with _San Marco_, erected
+in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by Michelozzi. Interior.--Over central
+door a "Crucifixion" by Giotto. First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before
+the Cross by S. di Tito, and an Annunciation by P.Cavallini (covered).
+Second altar, Madonna and Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here
+a small door opens into the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of
+Christ by Novelli, and of S.Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the
+high altar is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito,
+Empoli, Poccetti, and Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of
+S.Antonino, with frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a
+painting by Bronzino. Between the second and third altars on this the
+left side of the church, are the graves of the scholar Pico della
+Mirandola, d. 1494; the poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of
+Poliziano, d. 1494, tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the
+right of the main entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, of
+St. Mark. Open from 10 to 3. Fee, 1fr. Sundays free. During the 15th
+and 16th cent. this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop
+Antonino (d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo
+Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo
+della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in this
+convent. Among the very fine frescoes are--On the door of the church,
+left hand wall, "St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,"
+B.Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, "Crucifixion," with St. Dominic,
+B.Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church opens into the
+refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing food to St.
+Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L.Credi. Above is a
+"Crucifixion" by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in the south corner of the
+east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a large fresco of the
+Crucifixion by B.Angelico. Avery famous work. The crucifix on the left
+is by B.Montelupo, and the other by his son. The door in the middle of
+the east wall gives access to the picture-gallery in the upper storey.
+At the foot of this stair is a grand picture, aLast Supper (Cenacolo)
+by Ghirlandaio, who has dressed the company in the costume of the
+brotherhood. From this ascend to the first floor to what were the cells
+or rooms of the monks, ranged on each side of a narrow passage
+ornamented with paintings in fresco. At the head of the stair is a very
+beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, and also by him, on the
+opposite wall, aSt. Dominic embracing the Cross. Opposite the
+Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells of the right
+corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. Benedetto,
+and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, Fra.
+Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, banners
+used for Dante's festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by Benedetto. In
+the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, Cosmo de' Medici
+(Pater Patri) used frequently to reside. His portrait is by Pontormo,
+"The Jesus of Nazareth" is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the beautiful fresco
+by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by Angelico. In the
+third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an "Adoration" and an
+"Annunciation." In the fourth, also by him, other two famous pictures on
+wood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the _Coronation of Mary_. Turning
+to the right we find all the cells (as far as that of Savonarola), with
+paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some pupil of Angelico. In the middle of
+this corridor is the beautiful Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of
+B.Angelico. At the end, in a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the
+wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: aVirgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. della
+Robbia; the bust of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by
+Bastianini; and a sketch of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the
+two little cells at the side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved
+some manuscripts, acrucifix, and other objects which belonged to him;
+as also his portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the
+Piazza della Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his
+companions. Proceeding along the corridor, in which there are no cells
+on the right for some distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto,
+the best being a "Coronation" in the third cell.
+
+[Headnote: ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS.]
+
+At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via
+Ricasoli, is the entrance to the +Academy of Fine Arts+. Open from 9
+till 3. Fee, 1fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. In
+the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. della
+Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew of
+Robbia, and Bologna's models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and of
+the Rape of the Sabines. Acorridor, containing statues in stucco, to
+the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, left hand,
+adoor opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the large pictures,
+with 124 paintings, by the following artists: M.Albertinelli, A.
+Allori, B.Angelico, Spinello Aretino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti,
+F.Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese,
+A.Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, Credi, Curradi, C.Dolci,I. Empoli, Gen.
+da Fabriano, A. and T.Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto,
+Ligozzi, Fra. F.Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco,
+S.P. Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D.Passignani, Perugino, F.Pesellino, Fra.
+P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C.Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. del
+Sarto, L.Signorelli, G.A. Sogliani, A.Squazelli, Santi di Tito,
+Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the Baptism of Christ,
+by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator was painted by
+Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. 115, by
+Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the unearthly
+expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for many hours
+without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is followed by a
+chamber communicating with the +Tribune+, built in 1875, for the
+celebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael Angelo when 28 years
+of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza della Signoria,
+where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door opens into the
+Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The artists of a
+large number are unknown. The others are by B.Angelico, S. Aretino,
+M.Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, B.Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da
+Bologna, S.Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A.Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio,
+Bicci di Lorenzo, G.Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of the
+small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already
+named, the most important being Fra. and B.Angelico, who, with Sandro
+Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di Credi,
+are better represented here than anywhere else. The most remarkable are
+41, "The Day of Judgment," by Fra. Angelico. 13, A"Nativity," by L. di
+Credi; and 18, Portraits of two Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or
+Perugino. Beyond this is a collection of original designs in a room
+called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and
+12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, 10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19,
+Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani.
+
+From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri
+Moderni, acollection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six rooms.
+The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello
+Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del
+Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517
+to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a
+good state of preservation.
+
+[Headnote: MOSAICS--GALLERIA DEI LAVORI IN PIETRE DURE.]
+
+Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, is
+the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from 10
+to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases,
+specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the
+manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with
+explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and
+alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli,
+and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for
+sale, at prices from 80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous
+establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are
+sold here.
+
+
+THE PALACES OF FLORENCE.
+
+The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and gloomy
+aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 to
+4feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist of
+coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and
+contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain
+wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets,
+while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near
+the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a
+"cantina," just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through,
+whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those
+that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted
+over this niche "Vino Olio." The empty bottle, with the money, having
+been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the
+first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and
+barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with
+bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of
+the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two
+different forms--a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile nearly
+semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the interstice
+between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the palaces is by
+a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court surrounded by an
+arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the highest
+storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are decorated, and
+the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and gilded, and
+contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of thin bricks,
+either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or _spina di pesce_
+fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces contain collections of
+works of art open to the public on certain days. [Headnote: PALAZZO
+VECCHIO.] Of these the best are--first, the +Palazzo Vecchio+, in the
+Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is
+surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an
+excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy
+court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi,
+substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8feet in
+circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat
+little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa
+Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and
+keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take
+first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber,
+170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540,
+who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling
+illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the
+second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de'
+Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The
+lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala
+d'Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door
+is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala
+d'Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman
+history. It communicates with the Cappella S.Bernardo, beautifully
+painted in imitation of mosaic by R.Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel of St.
+Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de Toledo,
+painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow passage),
+is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an adjoining
+chamber painted by Poccetti.
+
+[Headnote: DANTE'S HOUSE.]
+
+North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the +Via
+S.Martino+, in which is a house with a marble slab over the door,
+bearing the following inscription: "In questa casa degli Alighieri
+nacque il Divino Poeta." --_Dante._ He was married to Gemma in
+S.Martino, ahumble little church close by, in the +Via dei Magazzini+.
+The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch's Laura) lived in the Palazzo
+Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni delle Bande
+Nere, and became the mother of CosmoI.
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO STROZZI--CORSINI--RICCARDI.]
+
+In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays from 11
+to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, rings,
+and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery on the
+first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and comfortably
+furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on a card. The
+two most remarkable are--+Portrait+ of one of the ladies Strozzi by
+Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, "La Puttina," by
+Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the Piazza
+S.Trinit. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column of Oriental
+granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to CosmoI. by Pius IV.
+Ashort way down the Arno (see plan), at No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the
+Palazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by G.Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The
+collection of paintings, contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on
+Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via
+Parione.
+
+Next to the church S. Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is
+the Prefettura della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the Palazzo
+Riccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the
+Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by
+Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici
+till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row
+of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base,
+rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the
+projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is
+composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the
+sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain
+beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the
+Biblioteca Riccardi, apicture-gallery, and a small chapel covered with
+most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by
+lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from
+12.30 till2.
+
+Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the Church
+of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose the
+remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the centre
+of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The frescoes in
+the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by Giovanni and
+Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by Ghirlandaio. Alittle
+way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti is the Hospital
+S.Giovanni di Dio, founded by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in
+which he lived and died stood on the site of the present No. 21 Borgo
+Ognissanti.
+
+[Headnote: PARK OF FLORENCE--VILLA CAREGGI--PALAZZO TORRIGIANI.]
+
+At the west end of the town, near the +Porta Prato+, is the Cascine or
+Park of Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much
+frequented in the afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between
+the Porta Prato and the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is
+the hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles north from the
+railway station by the Romito road is the Villa Careggi, built by
+Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which he died on August 1, 1464,
+as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th of April 1492. At the Ponte
+alle Grazie, the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio, is the Palazzo
+Torrigiani, built by Baccio d'Agnolo, containing a valuable collection
+of paintings, accompanied with catalogues. Open daily excepting
+Saturdays and Sundays.
+
+
+FIESOLE.
+
+At the east side of the town, by the +Via Alfieri+ or +Pinti+, is the
+Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, the
+latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S.Gallo.
+From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, the
+modern _Fiesole_, 3miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, on
+the summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to
+Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S.Gallo it
+is an easy walk of about 2 miles. See the excellent map of the environs
+(Dintorni) of Florence, published by the "Istituto Topografico
+Militare," 1fr. Beyond the Porta S.Gallo take the road leading up the
+left or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1mile, as far as the Villa
+Palmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the
+road ascends between walls about 1mile more to the Church and Convent
+of S.Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The church
+contains an Annunciation by Empoli; aBaptism of Christ by Credi; aSt.
+Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B.Angelico.
+Near S.Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many years
+by Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towards
+the Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole,
+rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesole
+is rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, the
+beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi or
+Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the
+place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. Ashort way
+beyond, the road enters the Piazza of _Fiesole_ (pop. 11,500. _Inns:_
+Locanda Firenze; Trattoria l'Aurora), famous for views and
+stone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S
+Miniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop
+Salutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The
+frescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue
+of St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew.
+In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The
+road passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed
+of huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and
+some of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the
+commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a
+Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of
+S.Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.
+
+[Headnote: S. SALVI--VENCIGLIATO--SETTIGNANO.]
+
+S. SALVI. VENCIGLIATO. SETTIGNANO.--1 mile east from the Porta
+S.Croce, by the road following the railway, is S.Salvi, containing a
+Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the refectory. From S.Salvi northwards
+to the Via Settignano, which follow for 1 mile eastwards, then take the
+road to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its
+union with the Frassinaia, is the Castle of Vencigliato, founded in the
+10th cent., 5miles north-east from the Porta S.Croce, and situated on
+the summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored
+at the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1 mile east from the
+part of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is
+Settignano, the birthplace of Michael Angelo.
+
+Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. The
+wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. The
+straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposed
+for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought by
+the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited straw
+to the hatters.
+
+The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally
+the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an
+inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of
+ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very
+nourishing to those who can digest them.
+
+ Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of
+ Florence. (See Map on page 199.)
+
+ To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence,
+ pop. 11,000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east.
+ Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5fr.,
+ guide, 2fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi,
+ about 5 miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At
+ Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20
+ fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having
+ visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15
+ miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4miles
+ from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for
+ Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to
+ Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli
+ from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena.
+
+[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO.]
+
+ A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the
+ Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills
+ crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks,
+ intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents
+ tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the
+ sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher.
+ Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton's
+ description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. lines 131-159, it possesses
+ that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas
+ conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a "woody
+ theatre" of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in
+ ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang
+ from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with
+ thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. "Higher than their tops" an
+ occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on
+ the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled colours mixed,
+ from which there is a "prospect large" over foliaged hills, and the
+ wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church
+ and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by
+ a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a
+ winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically
+ situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola
+ decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who
+ excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of
+ imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the
+ last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1
+ hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that
+ shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val
+ d'Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of
+ the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the
+ villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.
+
+[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA.]
+
+ The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, aCalabrian
+ anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley
+ surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a
+ hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro
+ Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses
+ an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the
+ ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of
+ Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, alofty rock
+ towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless
+ pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed
+ out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St.
+ Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a
+ covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in
+ which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body,
+ marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion.
+ From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the
+ diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12,000, whence rail either to
+ Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive
+ from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful.
+
++Florence+ is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma,
+Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52
+frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black's _South France_, East
+half, page 233.
+
+Florence is 196 m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto,
+and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d class, 23
+frs. 55 c. Florence is 60m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, and
+Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. 45 c.; 2d class,
+7frs. 15 c. See the "Indicatore Ufficiale." To the price given in the
+Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be added.
+
+
+[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI.]
+
++Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.+
+
+ Distance, 103 m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4 hrs. Map, page 199.
+
++Genoa.+--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the
+busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1m. W. from Genoa and 2 m. E.
+from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley
+of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels.
+Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at
+Busalla, 14m. N. from Genoa and 89m. S. from Turin. Busalla is
+situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest
+which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here
+also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28 or 35
+in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390
+yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous
+schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been
+hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel
+at Arquata, 26m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia.
+33m. N. from Genoa, and 70m. S. from Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena,
+atown of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15,
+1799, agreat battle took place between the French under Joubert and the
+Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and
+their general killed. Novi is 60m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera,
+and +Pavia+.
+
+[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA.]
+
+47 m. N. from Genoa and 56 m. S.E. from Turin is +Alessandria+, pop.
+30,000, 234m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna,
+and Pistoja. See Black's _South France_, East half. See map, page 199.
+
+ At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready.
+ _Hotels:_ L'Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in
+ compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding
+ 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a faade in the
+ modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal
+ statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di
+ Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown,
+ was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually
+ at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the
+ neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June
+ 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first
+ lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From
+ Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the
+ minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34m.
+ E. from Turin, and 68 m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives at
+
+[Headnote: ASTI.]
+
+ +Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey's Market, of the Latins),
+ aplace of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d'Oro. Celebrated for its
+ sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine
+ Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S.Giovanni is built
+ upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic
+ columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta
+ Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting
+ on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born
+ here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an
+ architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood
+ are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3 hrs.
+
+ From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct
+ over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at
+ Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82 m. S.
+ (page 183), and to Cuneo, 46 m. S.W. (page 183).
+
+ Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking
+ the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor EmmanuelI. died
+ in 1823.
+
+ For +Turin+, see Black's _South France_, East half. Loop-line to
+ Pinerolo, 23 m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10m. farther west, in
+ the Waldensian valleys. See Black's _South France_, East half.
+
+
+
+
++Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.+
+
+By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBRIEUX, CULOZ,
+AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuation
+of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria
+(page 279).
+
+
+ +Part First.+--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide,
+ 13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second.+--MODANE TO TURIN, 58 miles.
+ Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.
+
+ _Time-tables._--In England, see under "London to Turin" in the
+ Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway,
+ which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station
+ of the Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of
+ their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and
+ Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf.
+ For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and
+ from Macon to Turin, map, page 26.
+
+
+PART I.--PARIS TO MODANE.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{ }{431}
++PARIS.+ In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon
+Station is the Grand Htel de l'Univers, and under it a Caf Restaurant.
+Alittle farther off is Htel Jules Csar. Good restaurant also in the
+station. For the first 274m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to
+26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At
+Montereau, 49m. from Paris (p.10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not
+the Rapide. At La Roche (p.14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5
+min. At Tonnerre (p.17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p.19)
+the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p.20) both halt 6 min. At Macon
+(p.26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the
+Marseilles line, and goes 23m. E. to Bourg, 297m. from Paris. At
+Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a
+loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97m. W.
+(See map, p.27; and for description, Black's _France_, North half).
+5m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of
+Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Ambrieu+, 316m. S.E. from Paris,
+and 114m. N.W. from Modane. At Ambrieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and
+the Express 15 min. Ambrieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the
+Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with
+Lyon, 32m. west. From Ambrieu another loop-line extends 11m. S.
+through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important
+quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhne. Between
+Ambrieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of the
+Jura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.
+Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.
+The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of
+Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to
+Lyons and the mountains of Ardche.
+
+[Headnote: LAGNIEU.]
+
+8 m. S. from Ambrieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop.
+3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3m. S.W., on south side of
+Rhne. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and a
+lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily
+approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the
+Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto.
+
+From Ambrieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after
+St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7m. S.E. from Ambrieu, becomes wild and imposing.
+At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4m. farther, the train quits the Albarine
+and traverses a sequestered valley to
+
+[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ.]
+
++Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with
+loop-line to Belley, 9m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, with
+important quarries of lithographic stones. 442m. from Paris and 19m.
+N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu.
+
+347 m. S.E. from Paris, 14 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83 m. N.
+from Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhne, about m. E. from the station,
+771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H.
+Folliet; H. Mmon. Agreat deal of carriage-changing takes place here.
+41m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black's _North France_, and map p.26. 4m.
+S. from Culoz and 10m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Chtillon, 700 ft.
+above the sea, on the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by
+row-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view
+of the lake, Pope Celestin was born.
+
+Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10m. long, from 2 to 3m. wide,
+and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by the steep ridge
+of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat,
+2070 ft., and immediately to the S. abold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat,
+5302 ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs.,
+after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the
+lake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the
+summits of the ridge Mont d'Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain
+of Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about
+4 hrs.
+
+ The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The
+ lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad,
+ carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIX-LES-BAINS. HOTELS. CABS.]
+
+{362}{69}
++AIX-LES-BAINS+, 850 ft. above the sea, 1 m. from Lake Bourget, pop.
+6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending
+to the railway station. First-class hotels--their pension is from 12 to
+20 frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement.
+On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the
+Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the
+_Hotels:_ *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the end
+of R. du Casino, the H.Genve. Second-class houses: in the parallel
+street, the R.Genve, behind the R. du Casino, are the H.Durand;
+*Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H.Poste. Opposite the H.Poste is
+the office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons
+steamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H.
+de l'Etablissement. In front, the H. de l'Arc Romain. To the left, in
+the Rue des coles, is a small clean family house, the H.Germain.
+Alittle beyond is the H.Chteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, the
+H.Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-class
+houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. des Bergues.
+
+On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Htel, areally
+splendid first-class house. Below it is the H.Beau-Site, also a new but
+a smaller first-class house.
+
+The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genve, and then to the
+left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, "Poissons frais."
+
+Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behind
+the H.Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.
+
+_Cabs or Fiacres._--One-horse cab--3 frs. for the first hour; every
+succeeding hour, 2frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab--for first hour,
+4frs.; every succeeding hour, 3 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Riding
+horses--two hours, 4frs. Donkeys--one hour, 1fr.; half-day, 4frs.
+
+[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
+
+The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted up
+for the external application of the water, very little being drunk.
+Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind
+the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit,
+fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112,
+114, and 115 Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime,
+magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath
+with linen, 1 fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent.,
+with the inscription "Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit." Behind the
+arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Htel de
+Ville and the post and telegraph offices. Ahandsome stone stair of
+fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads up
+to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor,
+just beyond the foot of the stair, adoor opens into what is called the
+Temple of Diana, alarge rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recently
+restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l'Arc Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish
+church, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphur
+springs, situated a little way out of town.
+
+The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above
+the sea, and 45 min. distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Chteau
+de Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for
+indigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngeal
+affections.
+
+Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral water
+establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all within
+a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromine
+and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from the town
+by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring,
+frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric
+diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+
++Excursions from Aix-les-Bains.+--The steamer on certain days makes the
+tour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief
+is the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two
+men, 9frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5frs.; Bonport, 4frs.; Chtillon, 14
+frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than six
+passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake--one horse,
+11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.
+
+The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
+1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft.
+long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The
+interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white
+fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near
+Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of
+Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on
+the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of
+Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the
+right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in
+the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.
+
+About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of the
+lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reach
+it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and
+horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The
+fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the
+village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which
+rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p.282).
+
+_Other Excursions._--To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft.,
+good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. the
+Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocher
+de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours.
+The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by mule-path;
+there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes,
+3m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5m., the defile of the Combes and
+the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762ft.
+
+[Headnote: GROTTO OF BANGES. LE CHTELARD.]
+
++Aix to the Grotto of Banges+, _by Gresy and Cusy_.-- Seat in car there
+and back, 5frs. About 3m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty
+waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to
+an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3 hours from Aix. To the N., on
+a rock rising from the Chran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On
+the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of
+St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular
+obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chran is crossed by the Pont de
+Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in
+between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de
+Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance,
+approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.
+
+This road may be continued to +Le Chtelard+, 1 hour from the bridge,
+2500 ft. above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This
+is the capital of the "Pays des Beauges," occupying a plateau 13m. long
+and 8m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chran, and surrounded
+by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the
+manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants,
+of whom there are 10,000. Chtelard, in its social and geographical
+position, resembles Le Beage (p.84).
+
+The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which
+separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the
+Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W.,
+and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de
+Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.
+
+At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26m. N., whence a
+diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27m. farther N. by Brogny,
+Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p.27).
+
+
++Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.+
+
+ 21 m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3m. from Annecy, is
+ +Lovagny+, the station to alight at to visit the "Galeries des Gorges"
+ of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take
+ the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the chlet, where
+ refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge,
+ which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of
+ Pfffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an
+ average 72 ft. above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven
+ into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft.
+ apart.
+
+ 3 m. farther by rail is
+
+ +Annecy+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office;
+ Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake,
+ and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.
+
+ The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the
+ Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times
+ daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages
+ of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28m. N., on the road to
+ Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320).
+
+ This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the
+ north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in
+ Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of
+ Tresun, in which St. Franois de Sales, the founder of the Order of
+ the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier
+ is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph,
+ both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel
+ erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale,
+ his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel.
+
+ The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar
+ in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue
+ Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire,
+ entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which
+ Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel
+ street, behind the Rue de l'vch, on the site of that house next the
+ Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the
+ garden around the Htel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains
+ a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis
+ Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748.
+
+ The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the
+ sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of
+ which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft.
+ above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where
+ there are a comfortable inn, the Htel de l'Abbaye, and guides.
+
+ Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2m. east from
+ Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Su spent the last years of his
+ life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small
+ square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his last walk
+ on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died
+ two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau's house are seen a little
+ farther south, above the village of Veyrier.
+
+[Headnote: LESCHAUX.]
+
+ South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the
+ birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the
+ hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the
+ right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the
+ south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the
+ entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits
+ passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard.
+ In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is
+ Semnoz, 4148 ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the
+ straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10m. S. from
+ Annecy, and 14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the
+ village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable
+ inn. Duingt, at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated
+ village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p.291.)
+
+ 3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny,
+ where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became
+ successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of
+ Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la
+ Caille, 18m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge,
+ 212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the
+ torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.
+
+[Headnote: CRUSEILLES.]
+
+ 16 m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the
+ sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586
+ ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535
+ ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6m. from Geneva.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHAMBERY.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{370}{60}
++CHAMBERY+, pop. 20,000, and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving
+late should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to
+Turin. _Hotels._--Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain.
+France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d'Italie, the Poste and Europe,
+near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it
+is the Temple Protestant.
+
++Chambery+ is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. The
+first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station is
+the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre,
+opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. It
+consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with a
+statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne is
+the +Chteau+, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in
+1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road round
+from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within the
+precincts of the chteau is the Prfecture, having attached to it one of
+the old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of
+160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by
+36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to the
+Museum, chiefly archological. The Natural History Museum is in the
+Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, and
+overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, fr. Opposite the tower is the
+Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, fr. The three tall
+windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered with
+stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between the
+nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blue
+ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the
+14th, 15th, and 16th cents.
+
+[Headnote: CHURCH OF LEMENC.]
+
+The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de
+Boigne, leads past the Htel de Ville and the post office to the Palais
+de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a
+bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on
+the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la
+Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is of
+the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is of the 7th
+cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet in
+diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upper
+Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint
+Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago.
+His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.
+In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of
+Madame de Warrens.
+
+[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU.]
+
+ +Excursions.+--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on
+ the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2m. from Chambery
+ by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere
+ cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It
+ contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and
+ hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and
+ of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are
+ his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame's bedroom, and
+ the one over the dining-room Rousseau's. From the garden the view
+ extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in
+ between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the
+ Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the
+ foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge
+ of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45
+ min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes
+ (p. 284).
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{376}{55}
++LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the
+chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and
+back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by
+a partial landslip of Mt. Granier.
+
+
+{378}{53}
++MONTMLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to
+Grenoble, for which change carriages (p.338).
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY.]
+
+{358}{45}
++ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1m. from its
+station. _Inns:_ At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche;
+Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14m. N.E., whence diligences
+to Annecy, 28m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through
+Faverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice
+on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine
+passes (see p.321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage
+to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous
+rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other.
+These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the
+pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places
+only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards
+cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be
+seen within 3m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated
+more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too
+steep and arid.
+
+
+[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE.]
+
+{332}{39}
++AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch
+to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen.
+
+
+{409}{22}
++LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc.
+Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon.
+
+
+{414}{16}
++SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc;
+Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the
+mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The
+arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452.
+In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the
+saline thermal springs of Echaillon.
+
+
+{421}{10}
++ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the
+sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near
+the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next
+station is La Praz, 6m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: MODANE.]
+
+{431}{ }
++MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727m. from London, is
+really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up,
+and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large
+refreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ Htel
+International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as
+carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of
+the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and
+Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is
+charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful,
+and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day.
+ The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no
+ part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is
+ reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2 per
+ cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and
+ 5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.
+
+ From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than
+ Modane, in 7 hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a
+ little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.
+
+
+[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES.]
+
++Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.+
+
+ From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pass of Mont Cenis+ to
+ Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the
+ Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by
+ his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans,
+ connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8m. from Modane is
+ Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10m. Solliers; to the
+ left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16, Termignon, pop. 1080,
+ and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the
+ Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18m. Lans-le-Bourg,
+ pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560
+ ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc
+ the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are
+ twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft.
+ above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13m. from
+ Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above
+ the lake, which is 1 m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good
+ trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a
+ naturalist. 10m. from Susa and 29 m. from Modane is the Hospice of
+ Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La
+ Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the
+ descent becomes more rapid. 4 m. from Susa is the post-house of
+ Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1 from Susa, the hamlet of
+ Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page
+ 291).
+
+ [Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the
+ Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg.]
+
+
++PART II.--MODANE TO TURIN.+
+
+ See Map of Mont Cenis Railway.
+
+ miles from MODANE
+ miles to TURIN
+
+{ }{58}
++MODANE.+ At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia
+Railway Company.
+ The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best
+ time-table for Italy is the "Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade
+ Ferrate," 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the
+ railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d'Aspetto. W.-C's., Cessi, or
+ Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking
+ carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, Evietato il fumare.
+ Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.
+
+
+{5}{53}
++BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della
+Stazione, and in the town the Htel de France.
+ Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile
+ country than that above Modane.
+
+
+{12}{46}
++OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. _Inn:_ Dell' Alpi Cozzi, at the
+station.
+ At this pretty little village the road from Brianon, 17m. S.W. by
+ Mont Genvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte
+ Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius,
+ who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before
+ the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii.
+ cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the
+ road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now
+ Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343).
+
+
+{21}{36}
++CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views.
+
+
+{25}{33}
++MEANA+, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having
+traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at
+Bussoleno, 30m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5m. extends to
+Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil.
+ This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who
+ inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.
+ above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch
+ erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with
+ Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all
+ are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the
+ llth cent.
+
+ 12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the
+ foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the
+ plain. On the summit is the convent of S.Michele della Chiusa,
+ founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially
+ repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio EmanueleII. The government
+ intend to establish a meteorological station here. Agood mule-path
+ leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S.Pietro,
+ with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+TURIN,
+
+pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and
+490m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe
+Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans.
+When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he
+might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily
+from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of
+Julius Csar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it
+was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of
+Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S.Giovanni
+Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. FrancisI.
+so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became
+necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass through
+spacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome
+arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the
+Corso Vittorio EmanueleII. and the streets ramifying southwards from
+this.
+
+_Hotels._--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less
+expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of
+the principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams.
+The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side
+of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via
+Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the
+English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by
+Messrs. Cook. The H.Feder, 8 Via S.Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29
+Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via
+delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive:
+H. *Suisse; H.Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France
+et Concorde, Via dell' Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di
+Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana
+Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d'Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange.
+
+_Cabs._--One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1fr. First
+half-hour, 1fr. First hour, 1 fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The
+course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1 fr. From the central station to any
+part of the town, 1 fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, fr.
+additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a
+cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway
+carriage, 1 sou.
+
+ [Map: Turin]
+
+Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams run
+from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond the
+suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of the
+steam-trams from 12 sous to 3frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no more
+than four may occupy one seat.
+
+[Headnote: STATIONS. POST OFFICE. BOOKSELLERS.]
+
+_Stations._--The most important is the +Central Station+,
+awell-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet on
+the departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and Robert
+Stephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome Corso
+Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having at
+the eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western the
+model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and the
+cattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimo
+d'Azeglio, apoet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helped
+to throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza
+Carlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to the
+Piazza Castello, by the Piazza S.Carlo, with, in the centre, abronze
+equestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele
+Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of CarloIII. il Buono. He died in
+1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the
+west end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P.Castello
+by the Via Garibaldi. The Ciri Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of
+plan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza
+dello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in
+the shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn
+granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white
+marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter
+make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni,
+and Grandi.
+
+_Post and telegraph offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the
+side of the Palazzo Carignano (p.297). Stamps are sold at all the
+tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P.Castello, and connected
+with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and bordered
+on both sides with well-stocked shops.
+
+_Booksellers._--For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For
+guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via diPo.
+
+Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal
+streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafs, where the charge in
+all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The
+same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.
+
+_Theatres._--See list on plan. A short way east from the central
+station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in
+1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio
+Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue,
+ahandsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas.
+
+[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
+
+_Sights._--The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the
+"Accademia delle Scienze," with one side to the Piazza Carignano and
+another to the Via dell' Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is the
+Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogical
+collections. The white marble statue in front represents the
+philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house
+opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: "II Conte
+Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. Evi mori
+il 6 Giugno 1861." The armoury, enter by door headed "Reale Armeria
+Antica" under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal
+Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni.
+Awalk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All the
+above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The only
+one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side
+street,V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram from
+the Piazza Castello.
+
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO DELL' ACCADEMIA. MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.]
+
++The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.+
+
+The Palazzo dell' Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was
+built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast
+earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and
+cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more
+massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second
+story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen
+rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1fr. On Sundays and feast-days free,
+when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in two
+halls. +Hall 1.+ Left. In the centre, against the wall, under an
+inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of the
+collection, ablack basalt statue of Sesostris, RamesesII., 1388 B.C.
+On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of
+AmenophisII., 1565 B.C., and on his left a small black basalt statue of
+AmenophisII., the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting
+posture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At
+the head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of SetiII.,
+in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From this a room
+ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts,
+friezes, vases, etc.
+
+Parallel to Hall 1 is +Hall 2+. At the head of this hall, in a sitting
+posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 B.C., who was
+one of the most powerful of the Pharaohs.
+
+Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in three
+large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left,
+is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a table
+covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B.C.
+Alittle farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case,
+No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, abronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in.
+wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of
+Hadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads
+to the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a
+colossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily
+work the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found
+at Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician
+terracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient
+iron ornaments, lamps, etc.
+
+The +Centre Hall+ contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi,
+mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by the
+Israelites.
+
+In the +Third Hall+ are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No.
+4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, +The Book of the
+Dead+, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain vignettes.
+Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of
++Manetho+, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt down
+to the 19th dynasty.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
+
+In the second story is the +Picture Gallery+. All the paintings are
+labelled. In +Room 1+ are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy,
+and battles in which they were engaged. +Room 2.+ In this room are
+excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St.
+Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descent
+from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. +Rooms 3+ and +4+.
+Italian pictures, Massimo d'Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90,
+aLandscape. +Room 5.+ Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16th
+cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127
+and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, CosimoI. de
+Medici. +Room 6.+ J. da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P.Caliari
+(Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting gifts to Solomon;
+A.Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J.Robusti (Il
+Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. +Room 7.+ Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni;
+Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8.+ Enamels and paintings on
+porcelain by Constantin of Geneva. +Room 9.+ A small room entirely
+filled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9
+and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. +Room 10.+ Continuation
+of the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B.Strozzi, 232,
+Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese,
+234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord's Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236,
+Cupids; G.Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G.F. Barbieri
+(Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Return
+of Prodigal Son. +Room 11.+ A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal
+Palace, Venice; F.Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements;
+S.Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C.Dolce,
+276, Head of Madonna; B.Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old
+Bridge across the Po. +Room 12.+ Flemish and German school: Acken
+(Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G.Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van
+des Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F.Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and
+Gentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of CharlesI. of
+England; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of
+his apotheosis of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. +Room 13.+
+Containing the gems of the collection: A.Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child,
+and Saints; L.Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G.F. Barbieri (Guercino),
+357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of the
+Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, the
+figures by A.Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of the
+Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family;
+D.Teniers, 364, Tavern; G.Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost;
+Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and child
+in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P.Potter, 377,
+*Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. +Room
+14.+ Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398,
+Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P.P. Rubens, 416,
+Resurrection of Lazarus; C.Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife;
+Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman.
++Room 15.+ French school: C. Gle (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483,
+Landscapes;I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Catalogues
+sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.
+
+
+[Headnote: PALAZZO CARIGNANO.]
+
++Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.+
+
+Opposite the Palazzo dell' Accademia, but a little to the left, is the
+Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick;
+but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing than
+those of the Palazzo dell' Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the
+faade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the
+words, "Qui nacque Vittorio EmanueleII." Within is a high and spacious
+court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting the
+Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by
+Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone faade, built
+in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also
+p.293.) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological and
+mineralogical collections. Open daily, 1fr. Sundays and feast-days
+free.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAL ARMOURY.]
+
++Royal Armoury.+
+
+No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3free. On other
+days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of great
+interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filled
+chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first room
+is "Favorito," the favourite horse of the magnanimous R, Carlo Alberto.
+Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. In
+the large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At the
+head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed oval
+shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive gold
+thread. On five medallions are represented, in _alto-relievo_, scenes
+from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school of
+Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16th
+cent., and was presented to the university of Turin by the Princess
+Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword worn
+by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of CharlesV., and some
+beautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at
+the end of this hall opens into the "Medagliere del R," containing
+30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a complete
+series of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000
+medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca del
+R, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., numerous autographs, engravings and
+drawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must be
+obtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of the
+palace-gardens. At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro
+Regio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for
+2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions.
+In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a
+plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza
+Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance,
+turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass
+door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio AmadeoI. (died 1675) in a niche
+at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse in
+marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights of
+narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will be
+found who show the palace. Fee, 1fr.; party, 2frs. After the guardroom
+succeeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and rich
+furniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The room
+called Maria Theresa's contains some fine china vases.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAL PALACE. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+
++The Cathedral.+
+
+Adjoining the western end of the palace is the +Cathedral San Giovanni
+Battista+. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family.
+Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, is
+the +Cappella del Sudario+ (open till 9 A.M.), acircular chapel,
+separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in
+1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa,
+near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the
+statues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and
+eight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns
+of the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six
+arches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six
+smaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is
+composed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising
+from the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light
+in such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the
+appearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold
+and silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it
+at the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud
+(Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when
+he laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble
+monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy--Em. Filiberto (ob.
+1580), by Marchesi; Carlo EmanueleII. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; and
+Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince,
+the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the
+lovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em.II. (ob.
+1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the upper
+corridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is +San Lorenzo+,
+designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but
+it is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches.
+
+
+[Headnote: THE CASTELLO.]
+
++The Castello.+
+
+The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was
+erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it
+became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo EmanueleII.,
+Madama M.G. Battista, who built the stone faade, and in honour of whom
+it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat of
+government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the great
+hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, and
+another part of the palace by the "Accademia reale di Medicina," who
+here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.
+
+
+[Headnote: MUSEO CIVICO.]
+
++Museo Civico.+
+
+Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3,
+1fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. of
+celebrated Piedmontese. +2.+ Water-colours, representing landscapes and
+historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblong
+chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater diameter, and 2
+ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion's
+head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glass
+frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, avase, and two
+flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presented
+in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the United
+States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Geneva
+arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution by
+his widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, it
+needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen.
+
+The rooms from +4+ to +11+ contain modern oil-paintings, some very good,
+and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among the
+best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion of
+Eulalia by E.Franceschi. Second story.--Room +12+, Embroidery;
++13+, Miniatures and illustrated MSS.; +14+, Iron work; +15+, Carving
+in wood and ivory--notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; +16+, Glass and
+majolica; +17+, Italian porcelain; +18+, Busts; +19+, Small
+oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glass
+from 1300; +21+, Egyptian pottery; +22+, Pottery and stone age.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIA DI PO. UNIVERSITY. MADRE DI DIO.]
+
++The Via di Po.+
+
+The finest of the streets is the +Via di Po+, which extends from the
+Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio
+Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares,
+as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and
+lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in
+all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19 wide, and the
+pavement within the arcade 6 yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both
+sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the
+University, built in 1713 by Vittorio AmedeoII., but founded in 1404 by
+the Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and
+directed by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4,
+contains 200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman
+bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the
+Via di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell' Accademia
+Albertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti.
+Open daily. Apply to the custodi.
+
+The +Piazza Vittorio Emanuele+ is 394 yards long and 121 wide. In
+front, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the Gran
+Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, by
+Bansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio EmanueleI. to Turin
+after the fall of Napoleon. Alittle to the right on a hill (Il Monte)
+is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road
+up is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately
+above the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina,
+built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by
+one of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name,
+"The Queen's Vineyard." It is now a government school for the education
+of children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge,
+is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four
+pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor
+AmadeusI., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a
+government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of
+minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces,
+are topographically arranged. The +Botanical Garden+ belonging to the
+university is also here.
+
+
+[Headnote: MONUMENT TO CAVOUR.]
+
++Monuments.+
+
+In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello,
+is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupr of Florence, for which he
+received 1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in
+1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in
+bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.
+Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the
+words, "libera chiesa in libero stato." (See p.294.) The climate of
+Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west
+is the Piazza S.Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto
+(see p.293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable,
+almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother
+ofV. EmanueleII.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead
+the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor
+animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems
+about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering.
+
+A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is
+the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di
+Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected
+in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the
+celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor
+Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and
+Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group
+representing Count Verde (AmadeusVI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to
+this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted
+with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From
+this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing by
+on the left S.Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S.Domenico,
+in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the
+Virgin by Guercino.
+
+[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA.]
+
+Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La
+Consolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three
+churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a
+miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining
+walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances
+effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious
+Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria
+Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.
+Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended
+worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the
+square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected
+in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.
+
+In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72
+ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the
+ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns
+which contributed to the monument.
+
+[Headnote: CEMETERY.]
+
+Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo
+Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not
+worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.
+
+A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the
+citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the
+monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang
+a mine at the cost of his own life.
+
+
+[Headnote: LA SUPERGA.]
+
++La Superga.+
+
+Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the
+time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half
+an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number,
+the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram
+runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. EmanueleI., passes by the
+western end of the church, the "Great Mother of God," and descends by
+the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent
+commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and
+opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards,
+the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga
+station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious
+restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand,
+for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is
+probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the
+main road to Turin.
+
+The Superga is situated 4 m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.
+above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost 100,000. It was
+commenced by Vittorio AmedeoII. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to
+fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the
+French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the
+duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.
+
+Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be
+found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first
+hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.
+Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white
+marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are
+worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo
+Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo EmanueleIII., 1701-1773;
+towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, acolossal white marble statue;
+at left end, Vittorio AmedeoII., the founder, 1666-1732. In an
+adjoining vault children under seven are buried.
+
+[Headnote: VIEWS.]
+
+From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery
+outside the lantern. Adoor about 80 steps up opens into the gallery
+round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well
+seen. The top of the lantern is 229 ft. above the pavement of the
+church.
+
+The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the
+outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of
+Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is
+bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and
+Mont Blanc on the other.
+
+[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES.]
+
+Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8
+inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into
+milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked " la
+Piedmontese" or " la fonduta," and taken with a bottle of Asti wine,
+make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable
+aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of
+Piedmont are the Caluzo, awhite wine; the Barolo, adryish red wine
+with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, astrong red wine; and the
+Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long
+and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them
+is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very
+many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. Agreat deal
+of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important
+silk mills.
+
+Turin to Cuneo, 54 m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p.153). Turin to
+Genoa, 103m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p.279). Turin
+to Savona, 91m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p.183,
+and map p.27). Turin to Florence, 291m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria,
+Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p.309, and map
+p.199).
+
+
+THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.
+
+ (See accompanying Map.)
+
+The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid
+trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.
+
+The chief town, Torre-Pllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34
+miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23m. S.W. from
+Turin, and 10m. N.E. from Torre-Pllice. From Pinerolo a steam tram
+runs 12m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second
+Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is
+near the railway station.
+
+Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S.,
+2frs. 15 c. and 1fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This tram
+station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.
+
+The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the
+highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt.
+They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run
+neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.
+
+Rail between Cuneo and Mondov, 11 m. E. and 58m. S. by rail from
+Turin. Mondov, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tr Limoni d'Oro. On
+one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the
+inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the
+river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the
+hill is another town nearly as large as Mondov (see p.184).
+
+The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of
+Pllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20m. long from W.
+to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the
+isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.
+They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848
+procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were
+confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread
+themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year
+to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories
+have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx
+of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which
+up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a
+larger population of Romanists.
+
+ [Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Passes between France and Italy]
+
+These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat,
+barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows of vines
+on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple,
+pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded
+mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only
+high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between
+the valleys of the Pllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625
+ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft.,
+ashort way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell' Agnello or
+the Col Traversette, 9680ft.
+
+[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS.]
+
+The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of
+the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the
+French side (pp.344, 345), and, as there was constant communication
+between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a
+great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church,
+which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines
+had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome;
+albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer
+to God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of
+priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal and
+venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all
+these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin
+adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people,
+existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in
+1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from "valle densa,"
+contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first
+serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation
+of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amade IX., Duke of Savoy. By
+her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the
+Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics
+were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly
+obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a
+complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French
+Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.
+
+[Headnote: TORRE-PLLICE.]
+
++Torre-Pllice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. de l'Ours, good and comfortable,
+is situated on the Pllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34m. S.W. by
+rail from Turin, 10m. from Pinerolo, and 1m. from the station of
+Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a
+considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del
+Belvdre. Opposite is San Giovanni, alarge unfinished-looking village,
+with barracks, a"Tempio Evangelico," and several elementary Protestant
+schools.
+
+Torre-Pllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley
+enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the
+Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for
+girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph
+office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the
+Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and
+dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many
+Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made
+the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.
+
+The wine made in the valley of Pllice is principally red, and is drunk
+in the second year. Abeautiful walk extends up the valley of the
+Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360
+ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools.
+Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.
+
+[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX.]
+
++Torre-Pllice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des
+Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abris, 47m. W., 16 to 17 hrs.
+walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7m. and 2 hrs. walking, pop. 1520,
+Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular.
+Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge,
+having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718
+ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station,
+5683 ft., about 3 hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation
+may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col,
+7576 ft., 17m. from Torre-Pllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding
+a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly
+level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track
+joins the char--banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta,
+Ristolas, Abris, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see
+p.344, and map p.304.)
+
+
+PINEROLO.
+
+23 m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10 m. NE. from Torre-Pllice is
+Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d'Or; Campana; Cannon
+d'Oro. Ahandsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza
+d'Armi, agood promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the
+chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various
+colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music.
+The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for
+girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary.
+The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of
+dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club.
+_Cabs_--the course, 1fr.; the hour, 1fr. 75 c.; each successive
+half-hour, 1fr.
+
+[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D'ABRIS.]
+
+Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to
+Saluzzo, 2 hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam
+tram to Perosa, 12m. N.W. from Pinerolo. +Perosa+, 2015 ft., pop. 2400,
+_Inn:_ H.National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction
+with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop.
+760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.
+
++Perosa to Mont Dauphin.+--There is a post-road up the Germanasca and
+down the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by
+Perrero and Abris. Abris is 24m. S.W. from Perosa and on the S. side
+of the Col d'Abris, and 21m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin. (For Mont
+Dauphin, see p.344.) About 7m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop.
+560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello.
+From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and
+passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the
+Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the
+Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4 hrs. walk from
+Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pom to
+Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba
+separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and
+continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d'Abris,
+8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali,
+and the descent to the village of Abris by the hamlet of Roux, 2 hrs.
+(For Abris and Mont Dauphin, see p.344, and map, p.304.)
+
+[Headnote: FENESTRELLE. COL DE SESTRIRES.]
+
++Perosa to Cesanne+, 28 m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle,
+Pragelas, and Sestrires. 9m. above Perosa is +Fenestrelle+, pop. 1120,
+_Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italian
+fortresses on the frontier. 7m. from Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where the
+valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4m. is Sestrires,
+"whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrires, anearly
+level plain 2m. long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. The
+descent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossed
+to reach Cesanne, 8m. from Sestrires" (Ball's _Alps_, p.36). (For
+Cesanne to Brianon by Mont Genvre, see under Brianon, p.333, and map
+p.304.)
+
+
+SALUZZO.
+
++Saluzzo+ is 42 m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam tram from
+the same city. Saluzzo is 2 hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam tram, passing
+Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14m.
+W., fare 1 fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on
+the Vraita; and to Barge, 1 fr., _Inn:_ Lion d'Or.
+
+The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and the
+Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to
+Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble
+statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854.
+Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town of
+considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting various
+places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.
+
+[Headnote: PAESANA. CRISSOLO. COL DE LA TRAVERSETTE.]
+
++Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin+, 65 m. W. by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la
+Traversette, Abris, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in the
+evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., with two fair inns, passing
+Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes very
+picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing.
+After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road reaches the sanctuary of
+San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8m. from Paesana,
+4374 ft.
+ Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the
+ Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the
+ opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave,
+ Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly
+ after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases--the
+ +Pian Fiorenza+, 6034 ft., and the +Pian del R+, 6625 ft., containing
+ in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. Alittle to the S.W.
+ of the Pian del R is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la
+ Traversette leads N.W. from the Pian del R through a hollow covered
+ with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent
+ commences. About 300 ft. below the crest and 9564 ft. above the sea
+ is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by
+ Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs.
+ ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is
+ by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is
+ La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p.344, and
+ map p.304; also Ball's _Alps_, p. 22.)
+
+
+CUNEO.
+
+54 m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2 hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is
++Cuneo+, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H.Barra di Ferro; Albergo di
+Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S.W.; also
+to Dronero on the Maira, 1 hr. W. (See also pp.182 and 279.)
+
+ Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61 m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte,
+ Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentire and l'Arche, the frontier
+ village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to
+ Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)
+
+
++Turin to Florence.+
+
+ 291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and
+ Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and
+ through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London,
+ Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d.
+
+ miles from TURIN
+ miles to FLORENCE
+
+{ }{291}
++TURIN.+ (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p.280, and
+map p.199.)
+
+
+{81}{210}
++VOGHERA+, pop. 10,000, on the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H.Italia. Branch to
+Pavia, 17m. N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station,
+Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th
+June 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days.
+
+
+[Headnote: PIACENZA. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+{117}{174}
++PIACENZA+, pop. 36,000, on the Po. _Hotels:_ S.Marco; Italia; Croce
+Bianca. _Cabs_--the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1fr. For the
+first hour, 1 horse, 1fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1fr. 80c.
+
+In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de' Cavalli,
+from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and his
+son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S.Francesco, and on the
+other the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque +Palazzo
+del Comune+, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market.
+The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows.
+The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the +Cathedral+
+(1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior the
+arches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d
+altar is a picture, by A.Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the
+4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an
+altar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling
+frescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio's style. The
+Coronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The +Cupola+ is divided into
+eight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figures
+of prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below
+are four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt
+under the church rests on 100 columns. S.Antonino (the former
+cathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The
+curious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relics
+of the earlier edifice. At the W. end of the town is +Sa. Maria di
+Campagna+, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On the left of the chief
+entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1st
+chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and the
+Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the
+"Marriage of St. Catharine," the faces being portraits of the Pordenone
+family, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St.
+Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments of
+the cupola; those in the pendentives are by B.Gatti. The most highly
+decorated church is _S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic
+atrium. Raphael's Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S.Sisto.
+
+The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 by
+Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now the
+Prefettura, has a handsome faade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza is
+the site of _Velleia_, atown which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the
+3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which have
+been deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanations
+from the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on the
+application of a flame.
+
+
+[Headnote: PARMA--MUSEUM.]
+
+{153}{138}
++PARMA+, pop. 46,000, on the Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; Croce
+Bianca; Leone d'Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered
+by the Romans 183 B.C., is a neat clean town of modern appearance,
+surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is the
+Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo Farnese_, alarge
+unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind the
+Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintings
+belonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum of
+Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre,
+now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of Duke
+Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles and
+grand public entertainments.
+
+_The Museum of Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms,
+of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia
+and Rome. Among the most remarkable, are "The Theft of the Tripoid," in
+1st room. In the 2d room, astatuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the
+"Tabula alimentaria," arescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to the
+support of certain poor children. In 4th room, abust of Maria Louisa,
+the first Napoleon's second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the same
+staircase is the _Library_, with 150,000 volumes, and some thousands of
+MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of which
+is Correggio's fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--CORREGGIO.]
+
+_The Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, and
+is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but is
+remarkable for the number and value of Correggio's pictures. In
+selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters
+alphabetically to facilitate reference.
+
+ _Annibal Caracci._--Piet. _Lodovico Caracci._--Funeral of the Virgin;
+ the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da
+ Conegliano._--Two very good pictures. (+Correggio.+)--1. The Madonna
+ della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna
+ della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin's hand. 3. _The Madonna
+ with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight
+ effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden--this is Correggio's
+ best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on
+ canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art.
+ The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that
+ covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and
+ St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully
+ treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some
+ critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early
+ production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the
+ walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi
+ the engraver from Correggio's frescoes at Parma.) _Albert Durer._--Man
+ with a Skull. _Francesco Francia._--Descent from the Cross; the Virgin
+ enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most
+ charming). _Garofalo._--Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a
+ landscape below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni._--A Singing party.
+ _Murillo._--St. Jerome. _Parmegianino._--The Marriage of St. Catharine
+ (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with
+ a music book (marked "incerto" on the frame). _Fra Paola da
+ Pistoia._--Adoration of Magi. _Pordenone._--Portrait of a Man with an
+ open book. _Raffaello(?)._--Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and
+ St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a
+ work of Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa._--Landscape with Cattle. _Lionello
+ Spada._--Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine.
+ _Spagnoletto._--Twelve pictures of Saints. _B. Schidone._--The
+ Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John.
+ _Vandyck._--Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady.
+ _Velasquez._--Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other
+ portraits ascribed to him). _L. da Vinci._--Sketch of a Female Head.
+ _Zuccarelli._--River Scene.
+
+_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other side of
+the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called the
+Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style;
+but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords a
+pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo di
+Giardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of the town, near
+the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is planted
+with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town's-people,
+both in carriages and on foot.
+
+[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
+
+By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the
++Cathedral+, agood specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and
+14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281.
+In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an
+elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted
+by G.Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the
+great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one
+of Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ (1526-30), with
+frescoes representing the _Assumption of the Virgin_, but they are in a
+ruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son of
+Correggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini.
+In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at the
+foot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B.Gatti; and near it a
+poor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he was
+archdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported by
+thirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes of
+the 14th century, and intarsias by L.Biancho.
+
+[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--S. GIOVANNI.]
+
+The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with four
+deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers of
+open galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, the
+pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below,
+combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its class
+in Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rude
+sculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting--old, but not of much
+value. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble,
+and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protected
+from the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which the
+Parmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, and
+supported by a marble lion. +S. Giovanni Evangelista+ (1510), achurch
+standing near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the
+_frescoes painted by Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; they
+represent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badly
+lighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in the
+cathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists
+and the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory
+above. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of
+the sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a
+fresco of St. John. In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal
+entrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of
+Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by
+Giacomo Francia (the painter's portrait is seen in the old man to the
+left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio's "Night," now at
+Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the
+entrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four subjects);
+and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with his
+Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the
+adjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of two
+children by Correggio.
+
+[Headnote: S. PAOLO--CORREGGIO.]
+
+Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della Steccata_,
+from designs by F.Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are by
+Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and the
+Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar a
+Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. The
+wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. Agood Madonna in
+corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is the
+church of S.Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent of
+S.Paolo+, now a school. In this small building are the best preserved
+works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the walls
+and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, or
+Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower or
+piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charmingly
+portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is painted
+over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures in
+grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian is
+generally to be found in the picture-gallery.
+
+The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan,
+Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used
+in a granular form with soup. 17 miles S.E. from Parma is +Reggio
+Emilia+ (pop. 24,000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_--80 c. the
+course; 1 fr. the hour. _Sights_--Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto,
+born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went through sixteen editions in
+the 16th cent. 9m. N.E. is Correggio, the birthplace of the great
+painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa and
+back, 14 frs.
+
+
+[Headnote: MODENA. CATHEDRAL--DUCAL PALACE.]
+
+{185}{105}
++MODENA+, pop. 31,000. _Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their
+omnibuses await the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, 80 c. the course, 1fr.
+50 c. the hour; 2 horses, 1fr. the course, 1fr. 70 c. the hour.
+
+Modena (_Mutina_, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, is a
+clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which serve
+the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile.
+Acanal connects the town with the Panaro, atributary of the Po, by
+which means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained.
+
+The +Cathedral+, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Its
+exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal faade
+is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. On
+the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columns
+resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low,
+and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for the
+sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At the
+entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-size
+figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing the
+Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as if
+they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpit
+with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious old
+bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side of
+the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in the
+male line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of the finest in Italy, 315
+feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the name
+of Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. At
+the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the +Ducal Palace+, an
+immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls in
+the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open daily
+from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures,
+amongst which, though there are no _chefs d'oeuvre_, are many good ones.
+The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards the
+end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including five
+Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and the
+Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. In
+two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by the
+old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto's
+masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked,
+but which the custode will open on application, are some interesting
+cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B.Cellini, another of amber,
+athird of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory,
+majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a "Presepio," with
+numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver.
+
+The _Library_, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains about
+100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS.
+placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Roman
+and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck at
+Modena. In the suppressed convent of S.Agostino, near the gate of that
+name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stone
+obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below the
+surface. On the other side is a collection of medival tombs. In the
+church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of the
+Entombment. M.Angelo spoke very highly of this artist's works.
+
+The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is open
+to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOLOGNA.]
+
+{208}{82}
++BOLOGNA+, pop. 91,000. _Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera;
+del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni;
+Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_--one horse,
+the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1fr. 50 c. To or from the railway
+station, without luggage, 1fr.
+
+Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plain
+near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting is
+called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b.
+1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) and
+Agostino, aman of erudition, who furnished the general plan of the
+pictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d.
+1642), Domenichino (b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G.
+Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, d. 1666),
+Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b.
+1628, d. 1719); beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the
+various churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the
+"_Accademia delle Belle Arti_," situated at the north-east end of the
+town, near the Porta S.Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of
+the first floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the
+artists, and is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St.
+Cecilia, by Raphael.
+
+ The other best works are:--12. _Guercino_.--St. William; 13, St.
+ Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. 26.
+ _Bugiardini_.--Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino
+ Caracci_.--Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest paintings;
+ 35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_.--Virgin and Child, with Angels
+ and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. _Lodovico
+ Caracci_.--Assumption; 42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the
+ Virgin and Child; 43. Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46.
+ St. John the Baptist; 47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M.
+ Desubleo_.--Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75.
+ _Lavinia Fontana_.--St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. Francia_.--Virgin
+ and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. Annunciation; 80. Virgin and
+ Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are several other unnumbered
+ pictures by this master on frames. 84. _Giacomo Francia_.--Virgin and
+ Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. 89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an
+ imitator of Raffaello).--Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da
+ Cremona_--Descent from the Cross.. 134. _Guido_.--Madonna with the
+ Protectors of Bologna; 135. Massacre of the Innocents; 136.
+ Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass's Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of
+ the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried in processions); 139.
+ Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. 152. _Raphael_.--ST.
+ CECILIA, with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the
+ instruments of secular music lie broken on the ground). This
+ celebrated composition, painted in 1515, is well known from copies and
+ engravings. 175. _Elisabetta Sirani_.--St. Anthony of Padua; 176.
+ Madonna. 181. _L. Spada_.--Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183.
+ _Tiarini_.--St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. _Perugino_.--Virgin and
+ Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle Vite_.--Magdalene. 206.
+ _Domenichino_.--Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary;
+ 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona (the same subject as that
+ treated by Titian in a picture lately burnt at Venice). 212.
+ _Unknown_.--Sleeping Child. 291. _Desubleo_.--St. John the Baptist.
+ 292. _Innocenzio da Imola_.--Virgin and Saints. 294.
+ _Bugiardini_.--Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da Foligno_).--Virgin
+ and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius IX.)
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--UNIVERSITY.]
+
+In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour
+(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures.
+Acollection of original drawings is preserved in the library.
+
+Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430
+students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous,
+have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism,
+Laura Bassi, alady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe Mezzofanti (d.
+1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two languages. From the tower
+is a good view of the town. Attached to the University is a Museum of
+Antiquities and a Library. The Geological Museum is in a separate
+building. From the University, walking towards the leaning towers, we
+pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see plan), the oratory of
+St. Cecilia, the church of S.Giacomo, and (14) the Palazzo
+Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind
+of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.
+
+ [Map: Bologna]
+
+[Headnote: S. GIACOMO.]
+
+_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently restored. In
+the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, the Virgin on a
+Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana's St. Alexis; in the
+8th, Innocenzo da Imola's Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, three
+pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino
+Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P.Fontana. At the end of
+the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, with
+Francesco Francia's best work, a"Madonna," the lunette above by Giacomo
+Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of the church,
+contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini's Presentation in
+the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.
+
+[Headnote: THE TWO TOWERS.]
+
+In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia and
+St. Valerian, by F. and G.Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. During
+the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the
+commencement of the Strada Donato are the +Two Towers+ (28 in plan),
+seen from a great distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_,
+commenced in 1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3 feet, and
+ascended by a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence
+there is the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in
+1110, is 139 feet high, with an inclination of 8 feet. From the towers,
+the Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with,
+on the S. side, the church of S.Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo del'
+Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal.
+Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various
+buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned
+with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.
+
+[Headnote: S. PETRONIO.]
+
++S. Petronio+, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, and
+in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the faade are
+remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In
+the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th
+chapel; Sansovino's statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso's
+grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows
+are said to be from M.Angelo's designs; in the 11th chapel,
+abas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides,
+attributed to Properzia de' Rossi, aBolognese lady (d. 1535), who was
+at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile is over
+this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. On the
+floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in 1652.
+In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in the
+7th, aMadonna, by L.Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, by Tiarini. At
+the southern end of the church is (29 in plan) the Biblioteca Comunale,
+in the building called the Archiginnasio Antico, originally the
+University, before it was removed to its present edifice. Besides the
+Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a valuable Museum of
+Antiquities. Between S.Petronio and S.Stefano are (17) the _Pal. della
+Mercanzia_, the Chamber of Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal
+Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the Casino. [Headnote: S. STEFANO.] +Santo
+Stefano+ is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and courts, on
+the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the Church of the
+Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great altar. In the 1st
+chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the 2d on the left St.
+Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small chapel into the circular
+chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the tomb of St. Petronius,
+with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, considered to have healing
+virtues. This building is thought to have been formerly the baptistery
+of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, the principal chapel),
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small court, called the
+Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that at Jerusalem, we
+gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which contains four marble
+columns said to have belonged to the temple of Isis, and some pictures
+by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural paintings in the
+sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in the subterranean
+chapel of the Confession, abroken column is shown which is said to
+afford the measure of the Saviour's height. After visiting a cloister,
+where the columns show much variety of form, we have made the complete
+tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, which are of great
+interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano in the Strada
+Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers' end, see plan), 2, S.
+Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the celebrated
+composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side is the
+church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for its
+collection of pictures. [Headnote: S.BARTOLOMMEO. PAL. ZAMPIERI.
+S.DOMENICO. GUIDO'S TOMB.] _San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has some
+fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an
+"Annunciation," by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by
+Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by
+Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned
+from London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, fr.), although
+deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable frescoes
+by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of _Ai
+Servi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In the 2d
+chapel left is a "Touch-me-not," by Albano; and in the 4th, aSt.
+Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an "Annunciation" by Inno da
+Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of
++S. Domenico+, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and died.
+The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th.
+Interior--2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D.Creti. Right of
+south transept--the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. Dominic_, with
+his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. di Pisa. The
+garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. The kneeling
+angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the sarcophagus, were by
+Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, with its bas-reliefs
+illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added until 1532, awork of
+Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of the chapel is a fresco by
+Guercino, "The Transformation" of St. Dominic. The painting of the Saint
+burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is by L.Spada; that of the
+Saint recalling a Child to Life is by Tiarini. In a chapel on the right
+side of the high altar is the Marriage of Saint Catharine, by Filippino
+Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In
+the left transept should be noticed the tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on
+the wall a portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, considered here an accurate
+likeness, though painted 100 years after the death of the saint.
+Opposite St. Dominic's chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel
+of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of
+Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his favourite
+lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the Caracci,
+executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the reredos of the
+altar in this chapel.
+
+[Headnote: S. PIETRO.]
+
+Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S.Pietro, rebuilt in 1605,
+containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last
+painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it.
+Near S.Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st
+chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, afine
+Albani. N.E. from S.Pietro is S.Martino, 1217, restored. In the 1st
+chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi's Adoration of the Magi; and in the 5th
+chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino; in the
+next, aSt. Jerome, by L.Caracci; and in the chapel next the entrance,
+Madonna and Saints, by F.Francia. Old monuments in the cloisters. East
+from the leaning-towers is S.Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent.,
+and lately restored. At the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by
+Tiarini; in a large chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful
+landscape, by F.Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the
+chapel on the left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino's manner.
+
+
+ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.
+
+Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the +Annunziata+.
+In the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by
+L.Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo
+Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in
+the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.
+
+[Headnote: MADONNA DI S. LUCA. THE CERTOSA.]
+
+Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonna
+di S.Luca+, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. It is
+approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond the
+gate, and extends to the church, adistance of nearly 3m. This portico
+was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was finished. The
+church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed to have been
+painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed from the
+church. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a Carthusian
+convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, and the
+chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom attached to
+each.
+
+269 m. from Turin and 21 from Florence is Pistoja (see p.231), and
+291m. from Turin is Florence (see p.233).
+
+
++St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.+
+
+ (74 m. N.E. See Map, page 290.)
+
+ miles from ST. PIERRE
+ miles to COURMAYEUR
+
+{ }{74}
++ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY+ (see p. 289), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and
+45m. N.W. from Modane.
+
+
+{14}{60}
++ALBERTVILLE+, pop. 5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea.
+_Inns:_ Million; Balances. Adiligence runs between Albertville and
+Annecy, 22m.N.
+
+
+{22}{52}
++LA ROCHE CEVINS+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d'Or. Hidden
+and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2m. beyond
+is the defile Pas de Brianon.
+
+
+{31}{43}
++MOUTIERS+, pop. 2100, and 600 ft. above the sea-level, on the
+confluence of the Doron with the Isre. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. One
+mile from the town is the Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200
+ft. At the base are the salt springs, utilised both by salt-works and a
+bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road extends up a narrow and
+picturesque defile, following the course of the Isre, past St. Marcel,
+pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock called the Detroit du
+Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where the valley is only 145
+ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with the village of
+Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, 8375 ft.,
+commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of Villette,
+pop. 500, we reach
+
+
+[Headnote: AIME.]
+
+{41}{33}
++AIME+, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St.
+Bernard. This, the "Forum Claudii et Axuma," possesses remains of
+extensive Roman fortifications, and a very ancient church called St.
+Martin, built of stones from Roman buildings. 4m. beyond is Bellentre,
+pop. 1100, on the Isere, where the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass
+of the Little St. Bernard comes into view.
+
+
+{50}{24}
++BOURG ST. MAURICE+, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_
+Voyageurs; Royal. Avillage consisting of one long street, near the
+confluence of the Isre with the Versoyen and Nantet.
+
+
+[Headnote: SEEZ.]
+
+{52}{22}
++SEEZ+, the ancient Sextum, a pretty village between six mountains, pop.
+2600, and 2985 ft. above the sea-level. From Seez the road passes the
+village of Villard-Dessus, and then crosses the Recluse by a lofty
+bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, called the Roche Blanche, supposed
+to be the place noticed by Polybius, where Hannibal posted himself to
+protect his cavalry and beasts of burden. 3m. beyond is St. Germain;
+the last inhabited village during the winter. From St. Germain the
+ascent is easy to the
+
+
+{58}{15}
++HOSPICE+, 7077 ft., founded by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy
+plain 3m. long, and about a mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated
+by the Colonne de Joux, Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino
+marble. From the Hospice, Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended.
+About 300 paces from the column is the Cirque d'Annibal, consisting of a
+circle of large stones lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to
+have held a council of war, 218 B.C. Afew miles below are Cantine des
+Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, ahamlet, 4685 ft. above the
+sea-level, 9m. from Courmayeur.
+
+
+[Headnote: PR ST. DIDIER.]
+
+{70}{4}
++PR ST. DIDIER+, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion.
+Junction with road to Aosta, 23m. E. (See map, p.290.)
+
+
+{74}{ }
++COURMAYEUR+, 4211 ft., the highest considerable village in the valley
+of Aosta. _Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. Apublic coach
+leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7frs.; time, 5 hrs.
+Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every
+summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and
+for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters,
+which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are
+sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable
+circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in
+the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur--the road to
+Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Alle Blanche; the Col du
+Gant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serne, leading to the Great St.
+Bernard.
+
+
++Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.+
+
+ From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476m., and Modane
+ to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the Baths of
+ Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for Grenoble,
+ which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux and the
+ other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places are
+ Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.
+
+ (Map, page 304.)
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{ }{476}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon,
+where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons follow
+pp.1 to 29, and examine the maps referredto.
+
+
+{318}{158}
++LYONS.+ Perrache station. (See p. 29.)
+
+
+{325}{150}
++ST. PRIEST+, pop. 2800. In the old castle here Charles VII. confined
+his son Louis XI., then the Dauphin.
+
+
+[Headnote: BOURGOIN.]
+
+{344}{132}
++BOURGOIN+, pop. 5200. _Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres
+of bog, producing large quantities of peat. 10m. farther is La
+Tour-du-Pin, pop. 3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre.
+
+
+{358}{118}
++ST. ANDRE-LE-GAZ.+ A coach at this station awaits passengers for
+Chambery, 32m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse may
+be visited.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIRIEU.]
+
+{363}{113}
++VIRIEU+, pop. 2000. With a large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in
+good preservation, containing tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHABONS.]
+
+{368}{108}
++CHABONS+, pop. 2000. 5 m. distant is Lac Paladru, 3m. long and 160 ft.
+deep, surrounded by wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end
+of the lake is Paladru, pop. 1000.
+
+
+[Headnote: RIVES.]
+
+{371}{105}
++RIVES+, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ Poste. Situated about 1m. from the station,
+on the Fure. It has some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well
+as some considerable forges. Agreat proportion of the inhabitants
+employ themselves in the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The
+parish church was built in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the
+castle of Chteaubourg, destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from
+Rives to St. Rambert, 35m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see
+page43).
+
+
+[Headnote: VOIRON.]
+
+{378}{98}
++VOIRON+, 939 ft., pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches
+and gigs await passengers for the +Grande Chartreuse+, 15 m. distant by
+the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9m. from Voiron and 6from
+the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5frs. Voiron is a busy town on the river
+Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth manufactories. Here the
+monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large premises for the sale of their
+famous cordials, which they distil, not in the monastery itself, but in
+a large building a little beyond St. Laurent. The road from Voiron to
+the Grande Chartreuse joins the road from Voreppe just before reaching
+the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, distant from both stations 9m.,
+1344 ft., pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we
+pass on our right the distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a
+narrow gorge, among fine woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent,
+consisting of an immense square building, garnished with pavilions,
+situated on a narrow plateau 3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base
+of the Grand Som, which towers 3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from
+this place in about 3 hrs. This monastery, the head establishment of the
+Carthusian friars, was founded by St. Bruno, the originator of the
+order, in 1084. At first it consisted only of a small chapel, with six
+poor cells, the habitations of St. Bruno and his followers, built in
+what was then an almost inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.
+
+The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided
+with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small
+garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being
+occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the
+handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple
+vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. walk in the
+surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and on
+feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. Animal
+food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 A.M. they attend mass,
+excepting on Sundays, when the hour is 8 A.M. Vespers are said at 4
+P.M., and matins at a quarter to 12 midnight. Visitors who wish to see
+the monks should endeavour to be at the chapel-door at any of these
+hours. For gentlemen guests there is ample accommodation in the convent,
+clean beds, three large dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent
+water. The men-servants, of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story;
+the wives, however, of these servants, not being allowed to enter the
+convent, dwell in a house a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in
+this house also that ladies who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no
+female is allowed to enter the monastery.
+
+Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they
+distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at
+Voiron, at the following prices:--Liqueur verte, 8frs. the litre
+bottle; liqueur jaune, 6frs.; liqueur blanche, 4frs.
+
+From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in
+about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before
+commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St.
+Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the
+top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17 m. S.,
+5frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7frs. per day.
+
+
+[Headnote: MOIRANS.]
+
+{381}{94}
++MOIRANS+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to
+Valence, 50m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, +St. Marcellin+, pop.
+4000. _Inns:_ Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to
+the picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Sane, 11m. S., whence
+another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. (For Die,
+see p.47.)
+
+
+[Headnote: VOREPPE.]
+
+{385}{91}
++VOREPPE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse
+may alight here also, from which it is 15m. distant.
+
+
+[Headnote: GRENOBLE.]
+
+{394}{82}
++GRENOBLE+, pop. 46,000, and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated
+on the Isre, by far the greater part being on the left bank, while on
+the other there is a mere strip hemmed in between the river and the
+steep declivities of the Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the
+*Monnet; Europe; the two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in
+the Rue Montorge, is the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial
+travellers. NapoleonI. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from
+the 7th to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room No. 9. Among the cheaper
+second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; Marseille; *Bayard; all near
+each other and to the Place Grenette. Of the small houses at the
+station, the best is the H.Savoie. Temple Protestant at the W. end of
+the Rue Lesdiguires. Pleasant excursions for a very small sum may be
+taken to all the important places in the neighbourhood by means of the
+rail and the diligences and omnibuses which start from the Place
+Grenette. On the road to the railway station is a large and handsome
+hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. Hugues. Alittle way down, on
+the other side of the river, is the Esplanade, avery large oblong
+square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded by trees, much frequented on
+feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de Ville, off the Place
+Grenette.
+
+[Headnote: COACHES. BASTILE. BAYARD. ST. ANDR.]
+
+From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey,
+Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P.Notre Dame for Domene and Gires;
+from the P.Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., fare 5frs.;
+also to Brianon by Bourg d'Oisans, 6frs., 7 hrs.
+
+The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit of
+the Bastile, 915 ft. above the river. To reach it cross the river by the
+bridge highest up, then ascend by the first road to the left in the
+village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After numerous windings by a
+bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side of the mountain exposed
+to the S., asquare house is attained on the plateau behind the fort.
+The view is magnificent, but it is still better from the peak
+immediately above, where there is one of the quarries of argillaceous
+siliceous limestone, extensively used for making cement. Ascend either
+by the continuation of the same bullock-road or by the steep footpath.
+The isolated mountain, so prominent from the village of La Tronche, is
+Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that
+remains of its early history are some fragments of the walls built by
+Diocletian. The most interesting of the buildings is the Palais des
+Dauphins, now the Palais de Justice. In the square in front is a bronze
+statue of Bayard, one of the most illustrious heroes of a chivalrous
+age, esteemed by his contemporaries the model of soldiers and of men of
+honour. Born in 1476 at the neighbouring castle of Pontcharr, he died
+at Rebecq on the 30th April 1524 from wounds received at the battle of
+Romagnane, and was buried in the church of the Minimes, 1m. from
+Grenoble, whence in 1823 his ashes were removed to the church of St.
+Andr and deposited in the tomb in the N. transept. +St. Andr+, founded
+in the 13th cent., was the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the
+intersection of the transepts rises a fine tower, terminating with a
+steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the Htel de Ville, fronting the
+promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, attached to the Htel de Ville
+stands on foundations laid by Diocletian.
+
+[Headnote: LIBRARY.]
+
+E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th to
+the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone tabernacle,
+and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th cent. At the
+S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the Place de la
+Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Prfecture occupies the
+entire S. side of the "Place." Behind are the Botanic Gardens and the
+Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a handsome building,
+are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. On the E. side are
+the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice containing the public
+library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. long and 156 ft. wide,
+and cost 67,585. +The Library+, open every day except Monday, contains
+150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a comfortable
+reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and 44 ft. wide,
+is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted by handsome
+cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed richly-illuminated
+manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass cases containing
+medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric times. Among the
+MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by Raoul de Sestre in
+1377 by order of CharlesV.; also a New Testament, 12th cent., and
+another in Vaudois, 13th cent.
+
+ [Map: The French Waldensian Valleys]
+
+[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. MUSEUM.]
+
+The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains 550
+paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the largest
+and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists
+are:--Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine,
+Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino,
+Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes,
+C.Dolce, Gustave Dor (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink,
+Foschi, Fouquires, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude
+Gelle, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E.Hebert, Heusch, Holbeina,
+Jordaens, Jouvenet, G.Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, Licinio,
+Maltais Le, G.Manni, Mass, Meulen, P.Mignard, Millet, Monnayer,
+Montessuy, Moor, J.Ouvri, Pannini, Parrocel, Perugino, Piombo,
+Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, Ruisdael, Rysbraek,
+Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, D.Teniers, Terburg,
+Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, Van den Veldt, Van Loo,
+P.Vannucci, Verelst, P.Veronese, Vos. Off the last room of the picture
+gallery is a chamber containing the busts and portraits of the most
+famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the Dauphins, Dukes GuiguesI. to
+VI., JeanI. andII., HumbertI. and II.--Bayard, 1476-1524;
+Lesdiguires, 1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780;
+Champollion, 1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable
+antique furniture, porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also
+one of those models of the Bastile which were distributed among the
+eighty-three departments of France after the fall of that stronghold of
+despotism on the 14th of July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery
+is the Rue Lesdiguires leading to the Temple Protestant. On the way is
+passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the Museum of
+Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the museum
+consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens illustrating the
+organic and inorganic products of this part of the Alps. The birds and
+ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out to La Tronche is
+the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th cent., is supported
+on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: MANUFACTURES.]
+
+Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble,
+representing a value of 1,600,000. The material is given out to the
+workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves
+in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in
+1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of
+Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline.
+Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department.
+The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well
+selected.
+
+Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15m. N., for 2frs. Returns next
+day at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p.341),
+passing Montier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the
+Roman road and the Durance.
+ 7 m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow valley.
+ 1 m. N.E. is St. Genis, with a saline sulphurous spring, and strata
+ of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead ore.
+
+[Headnote: SASSENAGE.]
+
+ 3 m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses
+ start from the Place Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez
+ omnibuses leave their passengers at the entrance into the town near
+ the H. Faure, but the Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the
+ "Place" and stop before the inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the
+ inn is the house of the guide for Les Cuves, whose services are
+ necessary to be able to cross the Furon and the torrent from the
+ Cuves. This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and
+ Sassenage itself makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense
+ number of small vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac;
+ whence it is a very pleasant walk of a little more than 2m. to
+ Sassenage. The suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of
+ this kind constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains
+ it is supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots.
+ The gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of
+ limestone strata of great thickness, much valued for building
+ purposes. The path to the Cuves commences at the left side
+ (approaching) of the H. du Commerce, and, having passed through a
+ doorway, enters a kind of park and ascends by the right side of the
+ Furon. About 1 m. up is a great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks
+ as if it had been made artificially, out of which rushes a copious
+ stream of pure water. After crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of
+ a little more than 150 ft. to an enormous vault, within which are two
+ caves, called Les Cuves, out of each of which rushes a great volume of
+ water, which united passes under the cavern below called the Four des
+ Fes. After this two or three beautiful cascades, quite near, are
+ visited, and the Furon is crossed and the return made by the left side
+ of this most picturesque river. From the Cuves side is seen part of
+ the ruins of the old castle of the Berangers, to which a series of
+ steps leads up, commencing near the mills, left bank. Their modern
+ castle, built in the 17th cent., stands within a large park adjoining
+ the village. The large halls are furnished with antique furniture and
+ hung with paintings, a large proportion being family and historical
+ portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and marchioness are hung with
+ old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese is made in the mountains
+ around Villard and Lans, some miles to the south of Grenoble. The
+ general quality is not so good as formerly, as more of the cream now
+ is used for making butter.
+
+[Headnote: GRENOBLE TO BRIANON.]
+
+ +Grenoble to Brianon by Bourg d'Oisans+ and the Col de Lautaret (see
+ map p.304). Distance, 69m. E. Diligence daily. When there is much
+ snow, the Col is passed on sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to
+ the state of the road. Fare, 16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from
+ Brianon to Grenoble stops several hours at Bourg d'Oisans, it is a
+ good plan to alight there for the night. This magnificent
+ mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in 1804, opened in 1842, and
+ finished in 1868, makes a charming walking excursion; while from
+ almost every village grand mountain tours may be made. Bourg d'Oisans,
+ with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, makes capital quarters.
+ There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, H. d'Europe; La Grave,
+ H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le Montier, H.Alliey, and even in the
+ Hospice itself on the top of the Pass, where beds and food may be had
+ at most reasonable charges.
+
+[Headnote: CLAIX. VIZILLE. SCHILIENNE.]
+
+ 5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the
+ river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. de
+ France, with a bridge across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53
+ ft. above the river, built in 1611 by Lesdiguires. 5m. farther S.
+ by a road between poplars is +Vizille+, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert;
+ Lion d'Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the
+ station. A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between
+ high mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is +Schilienne+, pop. 1300.
+ _Inn:_ Petit Versailles, where the horses are changed. Avillage of
+ one street, magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the
+ valley of the Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above
+ each other. To the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from
+ Schilienne in about 6 hrs. In 1 hr. the hamlet of La Morte is
+ reached, whence the ascent lies through pastures and pine woods to
+ some steep rocks. The track then, leaving on the right a small tarn,
+ keeps along the base of the rocks to an abandoned mine, where it runs
+ along the ridge called the Arete de Brouffier, overlooking the valley
+ of the Combe de Valloire on the right and the Combe de Gavet on the
+ left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, usually covered with snow;
+ whence a second ridge leads up to the highest peak.
+
+ From Schilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of
+ Riouperoux, in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought
+ down by the terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated
+ the plain from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet
+ of Livet at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its
+ junction with the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and
+ the argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de
+ l'Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the
+ Bella Donna.
+
+[Headnote: BOURG D'OISANS.]
+
+ 29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d'Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. _Inns:_
+ France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Brianon remains at the
+ Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey here and
+ start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche,
+ surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000
+ ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded
+ with houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to
+ Lac Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its
+ dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly m. long and 110 yds. wide, and
+ commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due
+ N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of
+ Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and
+ valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr.
+ farther is Lake Blanc.
+
+[Headnote: ROAD TO THE ECRINS.]
+
+ Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of
+ which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7m., St.
+ Christophe 13 m., and La Berarde other 10m. Entire distance to La
+ Berarde from Oisans, 23m. A few miles above Oisans we leave the
+ narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venon to
+ the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole
+ valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the
+ distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier
+ summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the prolongation of
+ the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; _Inn:_ Paquet, on an
+ elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure and noble walnut woods,
+ on the right bank of the Venon. Exactly opposite Venose are the green
+ pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, 8300 ft. As the tributary
+ valleys do not join the principal valley at common level, but are
+ considerably higher, a waterfall, often of great beauty, almost
+ invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. In ascending the
+ valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes narrower, the rounded
+ forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly left, and, the
+ torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, avery short
+ distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. Amountain on the
+ right hand has at some remote time crumbled into fragments and
+ literally filled the valley from side to side with a colossal heap of
+ ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path practicable for
+ mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with excessive
+ commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was unable
+ to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three carriages
+ to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, harmonising
+ with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the romantic
+ village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few houses perched on
+ a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of the beautiful
+ cascades. [Headnote: ST. CHRISTOPHE. LA BERARDE.] Not much farther on,
+ the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of a rough hill to
+ +St. Christophe+, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just
+ before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow
+ cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du
+ Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages,
+ commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss
+ scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d'Arsine, standing
+ immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of
+ rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely
+ adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light,
+ is comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which
+ stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the
+ scenery of the Alle Blanche. +La Berarde+, which is placed in the
+ midst of this savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a
+ small chapel distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation
+ ceases just at the village; a few stunted pines are found still higher
+ up, but there is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose.
+ This excessive sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of
+ Dauphin. The village of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft.,
+ that of St. Christophe is 4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character
+ of the scenery is, like that of Switzerland, at a greater elevation.
+ The unbroken rocky surfaces deceive the eye to such an extent that it
+ is difficult to realise the enormous scale of these mountains. To
+ ascertain their height we must attempt to mount them, and even then
+ the eye has some difficulty to submit to the testimony of the limbs.
+ The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is
+ extremely dangerous. Mont Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde,
+ but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p.304).
+
+
+[Headnote: LE FRENEY.]
+
++Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Brianon.+
+
+ After Le Bourg d'Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche
+ flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the
+ side of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37 from Grenoble
+ is +Le Freney+, 3085 ft., pop. 900; _Inn:_ H.Europe, with mines up in
+ the mountains but of difficult access. It is in these mines that the
+ crystals and the species of quartz containing gold are found, for
+ which the Dauphin is so celebrated among mineralogists.
+
+ 2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with
+ a small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret
+ is passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a
+ soaring peak. About 3 m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les Freaux,
+ a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a precipice of
+ granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from Grenoble and 24m.
+ from Brianon is
+
+[Headnote: LA GRAVE. COL DE LAUTARET.]
+
+ +La Grave+, 5000 ft.; _Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope
+ rising from the road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs
+ containing copper mines, and opposite, on the other side of the river,
+ the great glacier which streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080
+ ft. To the E. of the Meije is the Bec de l'Homme, 11,372 ft., with a
+ smaller glacier. The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W.,
+ and is crowned by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The
+ two highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and
+ are rather more than a mile apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest
+ or western aiguille must be made from the northern side. The view of
+ this mountain from the village of La Grave can hardly be praised too
+ highly; it is one of the very finest road views in the Alps, and one
+ cannot speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential
+ glaciers, and tremendous precipices. The perpendicular cliff,
+ extending from the Glacier des Etanons to the summit of the Meije, is
+ about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads through a bleak region and
+ several tunnels to Villard d'Arene, 4 m. from La Grave and 32 from
+ Brianon, a miserable hamlet, considerably under the high road, at the
+ foot of the Bec de l'Homme.
+
+[Headnote: LE CASSET.]
+
+ 51 m. E. from Grenoble and 17 m. W. from Brianon is the +Hospice of
+ the Col de Lautaret+, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft.,
+ where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two
+ diligences pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it
+ is 11 kilomtres (6-4/5 m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomtres (8m.)
+ from Le Montier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of
+ Malaval and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi,
+ 13,081 ft. above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche
+ descends to Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Brianon.
+ From the Hospice the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a
+ mine of anthracite coal not far from the village of Lauzet. The
+ discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of
+ this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long
+ and inclement. 2 m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is
+ the hamlet of Le Casset, at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the
+ entrance to the ravine of the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great
+ glaciers which spread themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont
+ Pelvoux. When the snow is melted the effect of the sun upon them is
+ splendid. 60m. from Grenoble and 9 from Brianon is
+
+[Headnote: LE MONTIER. BRIANON.]
+
+ +Le Montier de Brianon+, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with
+ barley-fields, pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St.
+ Marguerite, 8328 ft., which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux
+ group. Horses changed here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment,
+ with hot sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes
+ the villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and
+ night-cap manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3m. from Brianon and
+ 4299 ft. above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is
+
+ +Brianon+, 4335 ft., pop. 6000. _Inn:_ H. de la Paix. Temple
+ Protestant. The Brigantium of the Romans, and now a fortified town of
+ the first class, with eight strong fortresses, which guard this
+ important entrance into France from Italy. The town stands on the
+ steep sides of an eminence rising vertically from the Durance, here a
+ roaring mountain torrent hemmed in between the cliffs of the Mont
+ Infernet, with strong forts on all the salient points up to the very
+ summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this part the Durance is spanned by
+ a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and 108 ft. above the river,
+ erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On the right side of the
+ river, above the town, is the Fort du Chteau, and opposite, on the
+ left side of the river, are the Trois Ttes, the largest of the forts.
+ The views from them are very extensive, especially from the fort
+ Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to visit the
+ forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building down
+ the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. Catherine,
+ is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded and
+ prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn
+ 14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 P.M., 1 hr. allowed
+ for meals. The longitudinal streets of Brianon are narrow and steep,
+ little better than staircases, down the centre of each of which runs a
+ stream of water in a marble gutter, with such an impulse that all
+ manner of garbage thrown into it quickly disappears. At the foot of
+ Brianon is the fertile valley formed by the union of the Guisanne
+ with the Durance, surrounded by carefully-cultivated mountains studded
+ with villages. All the Brianon coaches start from the Place du
+ Temple, in front of the church. "The neighbourhood of Brianon abounds
+ in rare plants. Amongst them may be mentioned Astragalus austriacus
+ and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium
+ Imperati, Brassica repanda, Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum
+ heleniifolium, Crepis pygma, Androsace septentrionalis, and
+ Bulbocodium vernum." --Ball's _Western Alps_.
+
+[Headnote: VAL LOUISE. GRAND PELVOUX.]
+
+ The great excursion from Brianon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group,
+ whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in
+ favourable weather and with experienced guides. Awheel-road extends
+ by the village of La Besse to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a path
+ ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Alfroide. The +Ville de Val
+ Louise+ lies near the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the
+ principal branch of the Val Louise, called the Alfroide, stretching
+ up to the foot of the monarch of the group, the +Grand Pelvoux+
+ itself, which, although at no great distance, cannot be seen from the
+ village on account of the hill which rises immediately behind. (See
+ p.345, and map p. 304.)
+
+[Headnote: CESANNE.]
+
+ +Brianon to Oulx+, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7frs., by a
+ beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views
+ of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the
+ summit of the Pass or of Mont Genvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans,
+ is the village of Genvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house,
+ 6476 ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Brianon, and 7m. from it
+ and 10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomtres
+ from Brianon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost 25m.
+ from Susa (p.291). A few yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the
+ boundary between France and Italy, and which commemorates in French,
+ Latin, and Italian the opening of this road in 1807 under NapoleonI.,
+ and its restoration or rather repair in 1835. 5m. farther is
+ +Cesanne+, at the confluence of the Dora with the Ripa, 4420 ft., or
+ nearly at the same height as Brianon. Italian custom-house. _Inn:_
+ Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. Apost-road leads from
+ Cesanne to Perosa, 28m. E. (p.307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514
+ ft., with a good inn, the Dell' Alpi Cozzi, close to the station. The
+ diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p.291. From
+ Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291.) The road between Brianon and Oulx forms
+ a pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably
+ shortened on the French side by following the footpath.
+
+ Grenoble to Gap by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes
+ only the length of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence
+ for Gap.
+
+
++Grenoble to Corps.+
+
+ By diligence, 39 m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road.
+ From Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the
+ railway and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp.328 and 345), and thence
+ in another straight line between poplars to Vizille, 5m. farther.
+ Coach from Vizille to La Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence
+ takes nine horses, and having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the
+ flanks of Mont Conex in 2 hrs. to the village of La Frey or Laffrey,
+ 2000 ft. above, and 4 m. from Vizille, and 15 from Grenoble, in a
+ cold situation on the top of this pass, about 3000 ft. above the sea;
+ the horses are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On
+ this plateau, immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050
+ ft. above the sea, 2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the
+ village of the Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Chtel. To
+ the right or west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite
+ coalmines, some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The
+ diligence next passes through Pierre-Chtel, 20m. from Grenoble,
+ aconsiderable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 ft.
+
+[Headnote: LA MURE. CORPS.]
+
+ 23 m. S. from Grenoble and 38 m. N. from Gap is +La Mure+, 2860 ft.,
+ pop. 3800, the largest town on the road, with the ancient castle of
+ Beaumont, nail manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans,
+ 3 m. distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next
+ village, is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the
+ edges of high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the
+ Bonne, which it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is
+ exactly half-way between Grenoble and Gap, 31m. from each, and 8m.
+ from Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge
+ of La Salette, arrives at
+
+ +Corps+, 39 m. from Grenoble, on a plateau 814 ft. above the
+ confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, or 3156 ft. above the sea.
+ Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next each other. Mules for La
+ Salette with man, 4 frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. the seat, or 15 frs. the
+ whole. La Salette is 5 m. from Corps, and 2750 ft. above it, by a
+ wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2 hrs. It is better to descend
+ on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very picturesque, and, like
+ all the journeys among the mountains of the department of Isre, of
+ great interest to the botanist and geologist. The inhabitants of these
+ mountains wander in winter to distant parts selling their plants,
+ bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most justly famous
+ liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, Grenoble, and
+ elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, one of the
+ best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of which the
+ black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.
+
+
+[Headnote: CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA SALETTE.]
+
+LA SALETTE.
+
+ This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now
+ visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of
+ Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. The church,
+ a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished
+ marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside
+ measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached
+ pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The
+ pulpit was a gift from Belgian votaries. The faade, with three
+ doorways, has on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses,
+ which were very great in a region of such difficult access, and where
+ winter lasts six months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions.
+ Opposite the faade are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the
+ gift of a Spaniard, representing the events of the story. On the south
+ side of the choir a door opens into the large and spacious building
+ occupied by the nuns, and on the north side another door opens into a
+ similar building occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in
+ each is exactly the same. The pension price, including wine and
+ everything else, is 5 frs. per day. Visitors can have a good meat
+ breakfast for 1 fr., dinner 2 frs., supper 2frs., abowl of caf au
+ lait fr., a cup of caf noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are
+ very obliging. Books approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in
+ the "magasin" of the establishment, giving the history of the
+ apparition, from which the following is extracted:-- "On the 19th of
+ September 1846, at 2.30 P.M., was seen by a girl and a boy in the
+ place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone shedding
+ tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 ft. in
+ diameter and 2 ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow forth freely.
+ Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called the
+ miraculous fountain. The girl's name was Fraoise-Melanie Calvat
+ Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy's Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years
+ old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could
+ neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such
+ frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a
+ few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to
+ learn the Pater Noster and the Av Maria. The statues of the children
+ in the path between the railings indicate the place where they were
+ standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became
+ aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in
+ French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, 'If my people will not
+ submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so
+ heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and
+ do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I
+ have taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have
+ reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is
+ that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts
+ cannot swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are
+ the two things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.' She
+ continued a little longer in French till, observing the children did
+ not understand her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same
+ strain, a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of
+ the Sabbath-- 'only some old women go to mass.' After her speech, and
+ having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, 'a tout
+ mon peuple,' she glided up the path between the railings, followed by
+ the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with
+ the statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she
+ disappeared, looking to the S.E." That this being was really Mary was
+ acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day
+ in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and
+ other acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August
+ 1867 the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The
+ first stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary
+ appeared to the children, was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble,
+ on 25th May 1852, assisted by Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the
+ presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In the churches all over France and in
+ many of those in Belgium are pictures representing N. D. de la Salette
+ addressing the children. In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette
+ she is appealed to as "the tower of David," "the gate of heaven," "the
+ morning star," "the refuge of sinners," "the queen conceived without
+ sin," "the healer of diseases," "thou by whose supplications the arm
+ of the irritated Lord against us is held back," "thou who hast said,
+ If my people will not submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of
+ my son," "thou who continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy
+ upon us, pray for us."
+
+ The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a
+ shop at Corps, upon which was written, "Objets de Pit vendus par
+ Maximin Giraud." He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was
+ sent to a nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that
+ the pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlire, born
+ near Saint-Marcellin, Isre.
+
+ From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap,
+ 22m. S. (See p.333, and map p. 304.)
+
+
+[Headnote: GIRES.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{398}{78}
++GIRES.+ At this station omnibuses await passengers for the baths of
+Uriage, 4m. N., and 1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Htel; Cercle; Ancien
+Htel; Des Bains; Du Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable
+and commodious, and is pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley,
+about 400 ft. higher than Grenoble. The water contains common salt,
+sulphates of magnesia and soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a
+deep valley at the junction of granite and lias, which is, however,
+concealed for some way by an immense mass of detritus, through which the
+spring forces itself. It is conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous
+conduit to the establishment, whence it issues with a temp. of 71 Fahr.
+
+
+[Headnote: DOMENE.]
+
+{401}{75}
++DOMENE+, pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Htel du Commerce. From this village is
+generally made the laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft.
+above the sea-level. Guides necessary. The first night is generally
+spent at the village of Revel. Two days required.
+
+
+[Headnote: GONCELIN.]
+
+{412}{64}
++GONCELIN+, pop. 1600. Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6m. distant by
+an excellent road through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses
+awaiting passengers at the station, fare 2frs. Here also a coach awaits
+passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the
+right bank of the Isre.
+
+ Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The three
+ principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8 frs.
+ to 12 frs. per day, including everything. The Htel des Bains, with
+ the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other end
+ of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place contiguous to
+ the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhne, 8 to 10 frs. In a garden
+ of its own, Le Chlet. Near the diligence office, the France. The H.
+ Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of the lias with the
+ primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61 Fahr., with a great
+ deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially efficacious in diseases of
+ the throat and the respiratory organs, for the cure of which the
+ establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus for inhalation and
+ gargling being both complete and varied.
+
+ Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate
+ of iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.
+
+ Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the
+ road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the "Fin
+ du Monde," 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable
+ to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at
+ the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank
+ and ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of
+ the way. At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a
+ toll of 10 sous.
+
+ The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1 hr. It is an
+ elevated point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the
+ Isre. 25 min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the
+ remains of a castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this
+ a path ascends through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the
+ hamlet of Crozet. Descend by sledge, 2 frs.
+
+ There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the
+ mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a
+ tariff by the authorities of the place.
+
+[Headnote: SEPT LAUX.]
+
+ The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most
+ difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La
+ Ferrire+, to the Sept Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level,
+ and the Glacier of Gleyzin, 9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time
+ required to go, 14 hrs. constant walking, but to the lakes only, about
+ half that time. This series of lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild
+ gloomy ravine, shut in on all sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by
+ springs, and are not accumulations of stagnant water derived from the
+ melting snow. The banks are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered
+ with snow nearly the whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake
+ Blanc, is almost always frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a
+ sluggish frog inhabits the marshy margins.
+
+
+[Headnote: PONTCHARR.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MODANE
+
+{418}{58}
++PONTCHARR+ station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of
+Pontcharr, pop. 2800, _Inn:_ Domenjon, 1m. distant.
+ From Pontcharr the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La
+ Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharr, and seen distinctly
+ from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.
+
+ {426}{50}
+ +LES MARCHES+, a straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which
+ stands the church of Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of
+ the Virgin. Beyond are some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips
+ from Mt. Granier, 6520 ft. 2 m. from Les Marches is Montmlian, where
+ passengers by this route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and
+ join the direct line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53
+ miles), see from Montmlian, p. 289.
+
+
++Marseilles to Grenoble+,
+
+190 m. N., by GARDANNE, AIX, PERTUIS, ST. AUBAN, VEYNES, and CLELLES.
+Fare--first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is
+394m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see p.324).
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{ }{190}
++MARSEILLES.+ There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by
+Rognac 33m., or by Gardanne 16m. The Rognac route must be chosen by
+those who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p.77).
+
+
+[Headnote: GARDANNE.]
+
+{11}{179}
++GARDANNE+, pop. 3500, on the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septmes
+are important coal-fields.
+ Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhne, are seen the chimneys of
+ numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line
+ extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and
+ Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of interest are Brignoles and
+ St. Maximin.
+
+
+{18}{171}
++AIX-EN-PROVENCE+ (see p. 78). At Aix change carriages for Rognac. 5m.
+N. from Aix is La Calade station, where a coach awaits passengers for
+St. Cannat, 5m. N.W. (p.80); and Lambesc, 3m. farther (p.80). 5m.
+S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. 16m. N. from Aix, or 34m. N. from
+Marseilles, is Meyrargues (see p.79).
+
+
+[Headnote: PERTUIS.]
+
+{38}{152}
++PERTUIS+, pop. 5800. _Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other.
+ Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2m. from
+ the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48m.
+ W., passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L'Isle, the station
+ for Vaucluse (see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the
+ Durance commences near Pertuis (p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is
+ the Tour d'Aigues, which was part of the old fortifications. From
+ Pertuis the country becomes picturesque. 10m. N. is the station of
+ Mirabeau, pop. 800, with the castle in which Mirabeau spent his
+ boyhood, and in which his father was born.
+
+ 60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque,
+ pop. 6200 (see pp.166 and 168). 4 m. N. from Manosque is Volx
+ village and station, with beds of lignite. 69m. N. from Marseilles
+ is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on the Oraison. 3m. N. from Brillanne is
+ the station and village of Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking the
+ Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and a
+ Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.
+
+
+[Headnote: PEYRUIS.]
+
+{77}{112}
++PEYRUIS+, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance,
+at the base of cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by
+the action of water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.
+
+
+{80}{109}
++ST. AUBAN+, pop. 250, junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, see
+p.166, and maps pp.162 and 304.)
+
+ +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles+,
+ 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9m. from Digne is La
+ Javie, famous for plums; pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of
+ the Blonne with the Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the
+ Combefre, whence a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990
+ ft. Thence descend to Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of
+ gypsum, 19 m. from Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is
+ commenced the ascent of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend
+ to Seyne-les-Alpes, pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and
+ half-way between Digne and Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the
+ 11th and 12th cents. 18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5from Le Lauzet,
+ is St. Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking
+ the Ubaye. From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette,
+ p. 341.
+
+[Headnote: COLMARS.]
+
+ +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. Thomas, Colmars, and Allos+,
+ 55m. N.E. 10m. from Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200,
+ on a confluent of the Blonne. 21 m. beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at
+ the foot of Mts. Meunier and Draye, on the Sence at its junction with
+ the Verdon. Excellent cheese, called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills.
+ 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. 1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from
+ Barcelonnette. A short way from Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in
+ one of the wildest and most sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake
+ Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, 4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep,
+ containing capital trout, and surrounded by cliffs in some places 590
+ ft. high, over which tower bleak mountains, of which the most lofty is
+ Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake discharges its surplus water through a
+ subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, whence it issues under the name of
+ the torrent Chadoulin. From the village of Allos proceed to
+ Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an interesting church, and
+ Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary of the Ubaye. (For
+ Barcelonnette, see p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see
+ p. 165.)
+
+
+[Headnote: SISTERON.]
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{91}{99}
++SISTERON+, pop. 5000. Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre;
+their omnibuses await passengers at station.
+ Picturesquely situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the
+ Durance at its confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the
+ town are the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part
+ of the fortifications built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has
+ been very much altered externally by restoration and repairs. The
+ effect of the graceful octagonal tower has been destroyed by the
+ square tower adjoining. In the interior the arches are early pointed,
+ inclining to the stilted form. The three apsidal terminations are
+ semicircular. The small window at the end of each is closed. The end
+ of the town farthest from the railway is picturesque. From the gateway
+ rise perpendicular cliffs of blue limestone, on the top of which is a
+ fortress of the third class. Immediately opposite, on the other side
+ of the Durance, are similar strata heaved up and twisted into an
+ enormous pyramid. A little beyond the gateway, agood road leads up by
+ the cemetery to a place where there is a good view of the valleys of
+ the Durance and the Buech. 7 m. N. from Sisteron is +Mison+ station,
+ 2002 ft. above the sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5m.
+ farther, Laragne station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is
+ Eyguians-Orpier station, 1979 ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: SERRES.]
+
+{112}{77}
++SERRES+, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of
+dirty, steep, narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff
+rising from between the Buech and the Blme. Diligence to Nyons, 41m.
+E., p.51. 8m. N. from Serres is Chabestan, 2411ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: VEYNES.]
+
+{121}{68}
++VEYNES+, 2614 ft. above the sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. and
+Rest, de la Gare; in town, H.Dousselin.
+
+ Junction with rail to +Mont Dauphin-Guillestre+, 51m. N.E. This
+ branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which traverse
+ the valleys of the Waldenses.
+
+[Headnote: GAP.]
+
+ On this branch line, 16 m. E. from Veynes and 34m. S.W. from Mont
+ Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, 2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300.
+ _Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; France. This, the ancient Civitas
+ Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, extensive barracks, long avenues
+ of walnut trees, and a handsome modern cathedral, built on the site of
+ one of the 11th cent. In the Prfecture is the mausoleum of the
+ Connetable Lesdiguires, originally one of the leaders of the
+ Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, Guillaume Farel,
+ a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He died on the 13th
+ Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his character were
+ dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed a sonorous
+ and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate earnestness;
+ yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of large
+ audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, aroused
+ against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.
+
+[Headnote: LE LAUZET.]
+
+ +Gap to Barcelonnette+, coach daily; distance, 42m.; fare, 8frs.;
+ time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its confluence with the
+ Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it ascends by the N. side
+ of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10m. from
+ Gap. 3 m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the
+ horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with
+ the Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and
+ ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, 23m.
+ from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil is made.
+ The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost every
+ part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the picturesque
+ fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28m. from Gap is Le
+ Lauzet, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with
+ narrow gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake
+ abounding with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the
+ entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S.
+ side of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of
+ Meolans occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses
+ to the right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4m.
+ from Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1 m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St.
+ Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th
+ cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the
+ church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side.
+ Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over
+ the door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the
+ presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is
+ a square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a
+ pattern to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the
+ characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally
+ great to the height of the spire.
+
+[Headnote: BARCELONNETTE. ST. PAUL.]
+
+ +Barcelonnette+, 3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord;
+ France; on the Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by
+ mountains clothed with walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present
+ village was built in 1230 on ground given by Reymond Beranger, in
+ honour of whose ancestors, the Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the
+ newly-erected town received its name. The parish church, begun in
+ 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, nearly rebuilt in the 16th
+ and 17th cents. The tour de l'horloge at the corner of the "Place" is
+ all that remains of the church of N. D. de Confort, built in 1290 and
+ destroyed in 1789.
+
+ From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there
+ is also one to the village of St. Paul, 4730 ft. above the sea, and
+ 13 m. N.E. from Barcelonnette, fare, 2 frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the
+ Maddalena road, the length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it
+ diverges 6 m. N. up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye.
+ The wheel-road continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft.
+ above the sea. From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet,
+ 8767 ft., and the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair
+ inn) and Chteau Dauphin and the river Vraita.
+
+[Headnote: JAUSIERS. BERSEZIO.]
+
+ +Barcelonnette to Cuneo+ by the Col della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte,
+ and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 hours' walk to Vinadio; whence there is a
+ diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road all the way (see map, p.304). Guide
+ not necessary. 3 m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. 3m.
+ more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the Ubaye with the
+ Sanires and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The road, to avoid
+ the narrow passage called the Pas de Grgoire, ascends to a
+ considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
+ Condamine-Chtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
+ Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2m. beyond La
+ Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley
+ of the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the other goes to the Pass of
+ +La Maddalena+. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or 14m. from Barcelonnette,
+ is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; Italie; 5570 ft., the last French
+ village. 5m. beyond, or 19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating
+ point of the Pass of the Maddalena or Argentire, 6548 ft. above the
+ sea, between Mt. Mourre and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The
+ mule-path on the S.E. side now descends 850 ft. by the Lago della
+ Maddalena, the source of the Stura, to the hamlets of Maddalena and
+ Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and Italian custom-house. Alittle
+ distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 from
+ Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine wild
+ scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The Baths are up
+ a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at the hamlet of
+ Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. 8m. from Vinadio
+ is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with the stream di
+ Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, 8422 ft.,
+ leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about 25m. W.
+ from Cuneo. 12m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, and 57 from
+ Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to Cuneo. (For Cuneo,
+ see pp. 182 and 279.)
+
+ +Gap to Grenoble by Laye, Corps, and La Mure+, 62m. Diligence to
+ Vizille, the remaining 8 m. by rail.
+
+ From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, by
+ +Laye+, 6 m. N., where the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On
+ the summit is a house of refuge. 4 m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques,
+ _Inn:_ H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
+ Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguires,
+ in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p.333).
+
+[Headnote: LA MURE. CHORGES.]
+
+ 23 m. from Grenoble and 38 from Gap is +La Mure+, pop. 3800, and
+ 2860 ft. above the sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. Acoach runs
+ between La Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche.
+ There is a large trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3m.
+ distant are the anthracite mines of Availlans. 20m. from Grenoble is
+ Pierre-Chtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10m. W.
+ by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is Laffrey
+ (see p. 333).
+
+ 26 m. from Veynes junction is +Chorges+, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la
+ Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
+ unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to
+ Diana. In the "Place" is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In
+ and around the town are fragments of Roman buildings. The chapel of
+ Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of Chorges, is visited by
+ pilgrims.
+
+[Headnote: SAVINES. EMBRUN.]
+
+ 34 m. from Veynes is +Savines+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste, on
+ the Rallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest and
+ valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all the
+ way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
+ Meolan. 6 m. beyond Savines is
+
+ +Embrun+, 3014 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste;
+ 8 m. S.E. from Rallon and 12 from Pruntres. This, the Ebrodunum of
+ the Romans and one of their important military stations, is situated
+ on an eminence in the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S.
+ side of Mont St. Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous
+ situation stands the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded
+ in the time of Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed
+ deep-set windows with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are
+ supported by flat buttresses rising to the eaves. The faade or west
+ end consists of a flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from
+ the N. side. Above the portal is a rose window with valuable old
+ painted glass. The N. portal is within a portico on four columns. The
+ two outer rest on lions; the two inner, each a cluster of four slender
+ columns, rest on the shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse
+ with its two apsidal chapels and part of the adjoining wall are
+ probably the only parts of the church which date from the time of
+ Charlemagne. The interior is about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each
+ side of the nave are four wide spanned early pointed arches resting on
+ massive rectangular piers. Above each arch is a small roundheaded
+ deeply-recessed window within a corniced arch resting on colonnettes.
+ Below in the aisles are their exact counterparts, only about double
+ the size. The roof of the nave is quadripartite, and that of the aisle
+ semicircular. The high altar and angels are of white marble. The organ
+ and most of the ornaments date from the time of Louis XI., who
+ frequently visited this church to pray to Notre Dame d'Embrun, that
+ white marble image of the Virgin and Child over the altar fronting the
+ northern entrance. On the inside of the northern doorway (left hand)
+ are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same size. It is said that
+ Lesdiguires, the Protestant leader, attempting to ride into the
+ church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse reared, and
+ the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the animal could
+ proceed no farther.
+
+ Behind the cathedral is the archbishop's palace, now a barrack. In the
+ centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
+ 3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.
+
+ After Embrun the rail passes Chteauroux, 3m. N.E. from Embrun, with
+ a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3m.
+ farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing
+ establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.
+
+[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN.]
+
+ 51 m. N.E. from Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coarse
+ reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the
+ Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above the
+ road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the
+ summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the
+ top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
+ stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the
+ village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy
+ appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and
+ mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers,
+ and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.
+
+[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIS.]
+
+ 2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is
+ the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and church
+ of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, passing
+ through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800
+ ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a cascade.
+ 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort
+ and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. from Brianon and 14m. N.E. from
+ Mont Dauphin, with an inn. "In the valleys around Queyras Protestants
+ are numerous, especially in the Val +d'Arvieux+, reached by a road
+ branching off on the left about 1 m. below Chteau Queyras; as well
+ as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre
+ Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran,
+ and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three
+ weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish"
+ (see p.304, and _Murray_, p.216). A little higher up the left or S.
+ bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent.,
+ and an inn. 18 m. from Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an
+ inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5
+ hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abris, with an inn and
+ Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil.
+ Although Abris is a convenient halting-place, it is a most
+ unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from +Abris+ on the Guil
+ is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left.
+
+ For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pllice to Mont Dauphin,
+ p.306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p.304.
+
+ +Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65m. E.From Mont Dauphin a
+ good road extends 21 m. E. to Abris, the highest village in the
+ valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From
+ Abris a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on
+ the S. flank of Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7m. E. from
+ the Col. 8 m. beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief
+ town in the valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5m. farther E., on
+ the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about
+ 17 m. S., to Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley
+ of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25m.
+ N.E. from Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p.304).
+
+[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX.]
+
+ 45 m. N.E. from Gap, and 9 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is +La
+ Besse+, 3420 ft. above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste.
+ Here passengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
+ Val Louise, about 6 m. W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see
+ p.333). 10 m. N. from La Besse is Brianon (see p.333). "Nearly
+ opposite La Besse to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which
+ terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top,
+ rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is visible from the road in
+ clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right
+ leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a mass of
+ ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pass, called Col de
+ Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called
+ Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed
+ themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as
+ much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position
+ and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by
+ Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its
+ inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their
+ hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire to at the
+ mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in
+ attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
+ below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
+ caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
+ believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
+ valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _dbris_.
+ The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable
+ goitred race." --_Murray_, p. 218.
+
+
+ miles from MARSEILLES
+ miles to GRENOBLE
+
+{126}{64}
++ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction
+with road to Livron, 68m. W., on E. side of Rhne (see p.46). The road
+after leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceeds
+westwards by the valley of the Drme (see p.47).
+
+
+{154}{35}
++CLELLES+, 2400 ft., pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. Station to alight at
+to make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, alimestone rock 6880 ft. high,
+near Chichiliane, about 7m. distant towards Die.
+
+
+{163}{27}
++MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold
+acidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIF.]
+
+{177}{13}
++VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt.
+Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: VIZILLE.]
+
+{181}{9}
++VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the
+Vigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right
+bank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguires, now restored
+and used as a manufactory (see p.333).
+
+
+{185}{5}
++PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000
+ft. high (see p.328).
+
+
+{190}{ }
++GRENOBLE.+ (See p. 324.)
+
+
++Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.+
+
+ See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhne and Savoy, p.27.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to LYONS
+
+ { }{349}
+ +PARIS.+ For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne Lyon par Saint
+ Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
+ junction of St. Germain-des-Fosss, see pp.351 to 358.
+
+ {220}{129}
+ +ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES.+ All the trains halt here.
+
+ {231}{118}
+ +LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bbre. The ruined castle on the
+ eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century.
+
+ {235}{113}
+ +ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle
+ of Montmorillon, 15th cent.
+
+ {262}{87}
+ +ROANNE+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. Abusy,
+ well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin,
+ possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the
+ most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th
+ cent.; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built
+ by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills
+ employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is
+ 1,120,000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes
+ through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their
+ offshoots.
+
+ {282}{67}
+ +FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient
+ Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly
+ of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring,
+ called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains.
+
+ {297}{51}
+ +SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of
+ mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It
+ is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p.348).
+
+ {312}{37}
+ +SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord;
+ France; both first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less
+ expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe
+ the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple
+ Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the
+ Palais de Justice, a large handsome building.
+
+ This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
+ summer, was founded by the Romans B.C. 56, and from a very early
+ period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables,
+ ribbons, firearms, and "faence" or crockery. It is situated in the
+ long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One
+ long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St.
+ Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into
+ two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal squares or
+ "Places." In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected
+ by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the
+ railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the
+ Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the
+ street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill
+ behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an
+ artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some
+ of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure
+ to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and
+ church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from
+ this convent, down the hill, passes the church of St. Etienne, built
+ in the 12th cent., containing some beautiful glass, and a relief
+ representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne.
+
+[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES.]
+
+ A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS
+ DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture
+ Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of
+ specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
+ the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
+ separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including
+ locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The
+ centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern.
+ The most striking is, "Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves."
+ On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and
+ on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
+ furniture. In a separate saloon is the faence, consisting chiefly of
+ plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre
+ of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under
+ glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
+ arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although
+ most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as
+ simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting
+ posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of
+ Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this
+ room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the
+ varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the
+ silk manufactures is estimated at 3,300,000, employing 40,000 workmen
+ and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which 165,000 work organzines and
+ trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended for crapes and gauze
+ ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65,000 for
+ weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85
+ square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually
+ 1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite
+ the gas-works, are the Manufacture d'Armes of the Government, and
+ adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under
+ the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs
+ about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories
+ throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300,000 stand
+ of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne
+ is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north
+ from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de
+ la Badouillire.
+
+[Headnote: ROCHETAILLE.]
+
+ _Excursions._--Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large
+ hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the
+ +Gouffre d'Enfer+. 2 m. farther by the same road is the village of
+ Rochetaille. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat.
+ A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10m. from St. Etienne.
+ Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7m. farther, where
+ pass the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft.,
+ and the Crte de la Perdrix, 4705 ft.
+
+ 14 m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft.
+ above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers for the town,
+ 1 m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. It is a poor place
+ with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill
+ are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water.
+ The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached
+ by deep shafts, like the "Source Remy," cased with masonry, and
+ furnished with spiral staircases.
+
+ From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus
+ starts for St. Alban, 6 m. distant, with a hotel and bathing
+ establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.
+
+ Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d'Estreaux, acoach
+ awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3 m. from the station. The
+ bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by
+ six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron.
+
+ St. Germains is the station for Vichy (p.358).
+
+
++Paris to Lyons by Tarare.+
+
+ Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17 hours.
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to LYONS
+
+{ }{318}
++PARIS.+ This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. For
+time-tables, see under "Paris, Tarare, et Lyon." The route becomes
+picturesque after Roanne.
+
+
+[Headnote: ROANNE.]
+
+{262}{56}
++ROANNE.+ (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is L'Hpital, and 19m. more the
+manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. 7000, at the foot of a hill 1525
+ft. above the sea-level, producing considerable quantities of muslin,
+calico, cotton, and linen cloth. 3m. from Amplepuis commences the
+tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces the ridge that separates the basin of
+the Loire from the Rhne. The temperature of the Rhne basin in winter
+is rawer and colder than that of the Loire.
+
+
+[Headnote: TARARE.]
+
+{288}{30}
++TARARE+, pop. 15,000. _Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and
+unattractive manufacturing town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep
+mountains, among which is Mont Chevrier, one of the highest summits of
+the Beaujolais range. At the low end of the town is the railway station,
+and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the valley of the
+Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 ft., the
+others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs are
+employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
+especially in the particular kind of muslin called "tarlatan," athin
+gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.
+
+
+{318}{ }
++LYONS+ (see p. 29).
+
+
+[Headnote: MONTBRISON.]
+
++Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand+,
+
+121 m. W. by GIVORS-CANAL, ST. ETIENNE, MONTBRISON, and THIERS.
+
+ At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhne
+ change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
+ towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St.
+ Etienne (p.346) a long halt is generally made. Alittle way up from
+ the station will be found the steam tram, which, after traversing the
+ best part of the town, returns to this terminus. 56m. W. from Lyons
+ and 64 m. E. from Clermont is +Montbrison+ on the Vizezy, pop. 6700.
+ _Inn:_ H. Lion d'Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings
+ occupy religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793.
+ Of these the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent
+ and church of the nuns of "Sainte Marie."
+
+ Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d'Esperance, founded in
+ 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
+ heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
+ Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
+ apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
+ windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
+ diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is
+ 206 ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E.
+ end of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count "Fores and Niver, Guigo
+ IV.," who founded the church in MCCXXIII. Opposite is the monument to
+ the jurist Vernato, d. MCCCLVIII.
+
+[Headnote: SALLE DES ETATS.]
+
+ Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des Etats (house of
+ Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 by JeanI., Comte de
+ Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de Persigny from plans by
+ Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed into the Salle de la
+ Diana (decana), from having been converted into the chapter-house of
+ the church. It now contains the library of the Diana society, who also
+ hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26 ft. wide, and 26 ft.
+ high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted representations
+ of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every family that
+ has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows are modern
+ additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
+ original one.
+
+ Less than m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
+ spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
+ carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
+ diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
+ untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
+ ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49 m. W. from
+ Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway
+ is the station of St. Paul (p. 30).
+
+ Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
+ after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by
+ the gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the
+ train traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle
+ by a viaduct of seven arches. 24 m. E. from Clermont, 40m. W. from
+ Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96m. W. from Lyons is
+
+[Headnote: THIERS.]
+
+ +Thiers+, pop. 16,500, at first a small hamlet beside a fortress
+ (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel dedicated to St. Symphorien (see
+ p. 367).
+
+ Thiers is 72 m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues,
+ Vertolaye, Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p.89).
+
+ Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
+ Clermont-Ferrand.
+
+ 1 m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is
+
+ +Courty.+ Junction with line to St. Germain des Fosss, 27m. W.,
+ passing Vichy, 21 m. N.
+
+[Headnote: VERTAIZON. BILLOM.]
+
+ 13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is +Vertaizon+, pop.
+ 2200, situated 1 m. S. from the station. Junction with branch line to
+ +Billom+, 5 m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce. Aprettily
+ situated town among hills crowned with ruins of castles from 12th to
+ 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th to 13th cents.
+
+ The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach +Clermont-Ferrand+
+ (see p. 369).
+
+
++Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nmes.+
+
+ This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
+ famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire;
+ and to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See
+ Maps, pp. 1 and 27.)
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{ }{530}
++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris Lyon,
+and request a ticket for Nmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first stations
+passed are Brunoy (p.2), Melun (p.2), and Fontainebleau (p.3). At
+Moret, 42m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nmes
+separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see
+p.10.)
+
+
+{73}{457}
++MONTARGIS+, pop. 10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_
+Poste; France. The principal street leads directly from the station to
+the Htel de la Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about
+the old castle are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This
+castle, rebuilt by CharlesV., called formerly the "berceau des enfants
+de France," became private property in 1809. Ahouse has been built
+within the circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway
+still stands.
+
+The parish church is of different epochs--the nave and the aisles belong
+to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps higher, to the
+16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from which the
+groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.
+
+The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
+adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
+Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
+Paris and the south of France.
+
+10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
+Chtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1fr. Admiral Coligny was
+born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst of
+the hereditary domain of the family.
+
+
+{96}{434}
++GIEN+, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and
+an important railway junction. On the hill rising from the town is the
+church of St. Pierre, flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding
+an admirable view. Adjoining is the chteau, ahandsome edifice built in
+1494 by Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the
+Prfecture. Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent.
+38m. N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp.148 and 151 in Black's
+_Normandy_).
+
+
+[Headnote: BRIARE.]
+
+{102}{427}
++BRIARE+, pop. 5200. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. Apleasant town on the
+Loire, where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3m. farther
+S. by rail is Chtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois;
+omnibus awaits passengers.
+
+
+[Headnote: COSNE.]
+
+{121}{409}
++COSNE+, pop. 7000. _Inns_: Grand Cerf; Belle toile. This little town,
+with ironworks of considerable importance, and still retaining parts of
+its old fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its
+junction with the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of
+which the portal and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern.
+6m. farther S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_
+Pointe du Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the
+sea. In the neighbourhood are important quarries.
+
+
+{138}{392}
++POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE+, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ cu. The surrounding vineyards
+produce a famous white wine, with a peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in
+the second year, and deteriorates after the 15th.
+
+
+{141}{389}
++LA CHARIT+, built on a hill sloping down from the railway to the
+Loire, crossed by both a stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et
+G.Monarque; Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of
+its fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
+consecrated in 1107 by Pope PascalII., there remain a vast narthex, the
+choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This church belonged
+to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to the town its
+name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the Visitandines
+(Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of St. Franois
+de Sales.
+
+
+[Headnote: POUGUES LES EAUX.]
+
+{150}{380}
++POUGUES LES EAUX+, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du
+Chlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l'Etablissement, and
+opposite the "Etablissement," the Htel Thermal. Pougues, being a quiet
+place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
+stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
+establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
+water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
+rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
+has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
+both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
+iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
+liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
+carbonic acid gas are employed.
+
+
+[Headnote: FOURCHAMBAULT.]
+
+{154}{376}
++FOURCHAMBAULT+, pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town,
+H.Berry. Atown on the Loire full of large ironworks, employing above
+5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du Carrousel were cast
+here. Omnibus at station.
+
+
+[Headnote: NEVERS.]
+
+{158}{372}
++NEVERS+, pop. 20,400. _Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du
+Chemin de Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nivre. Ashort
+distance N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is
+the nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous,
+to which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews
+with the "immaculately conceived one," and where she died, after a
+lingering illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present
+pope had not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio
+IX. entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black's _South France_, West
+Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
+covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:-- "Ici
+repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honore
+Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Trs Sainte Vierge. En
+religion Soeur Marie Bernard, dcde Nevers, la Maison-Mre des
+Soeurs de la Charit, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e anne de son age et
+la 12me de sa profession religieuse. C'est ici le lieu. Psalm 131,
+v.15."
+
+[Headnote: FAENCE.]
+
+Julius Csar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat at
+Gergovia (p.372) the inhabitants plundered his camp and massacred the
+soldiers. Of the old fortifications there remain the tower of the Loire,
+of which the lower part is of the 11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi,
+16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th cent.; and the Porte du Croux,
+asquare tower of the 12th cent., but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an
+antiquarian museum. At the entrance into the town by the Paris road is a
+triumphal arch, erected in 1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy,
+12th May 1745, when the French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch
+forces under the Duke of Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a
+hill rising from the Loire in the midst of a flat country abounding with
+iron, giving employment to important ironworks. In the most elevated
+part is the Grande Place, with the +Palais de Justice+, formerly the
+Palais Ducal, astately edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte
+de Nevers, but altered and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his
+successors, belonging to the families of Clves and Gonzaga. It is in
+the form of a parallelogram, flanked with four towers, each containing a
+staircase. In the centre turret is the "Escalier d'honneur," ornamented
+with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history of the
+house of Clves. The market-place occupies the site of the old Palais de
+Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the Palais de
+Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. In the Htel de Ville are the
+Library, the Picture Gallery, and an interesting collection of faence,
+which has been manufactured at Nevers for eight centuries. Faence is
+the French term for all descriptions of glazed earthenware, and
+corresponds nearly to the English word "crockery." The manufacture of
+majolica or enamelled pottery was introduced into France by Catherine de
+Mdicis and her kinsman Louis Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta
+of Clves in 1565, became Duke of Nevers. There are still important
+pottery works in the town.
+
+[Headnote: CASSINI.]
+
+Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
+reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
+The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
+14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
+with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
+western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
+11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
+triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
+astronomer Cassini while engaged in the triangulation of France.
+
+The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Pre
+was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
+chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.
+
+32 m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers for
+the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honor. The water is hot,
+and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
+Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p.1.)
+
+[Headnote: VARZY. CLAMECY.]
+
+Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line between
+Paris and Turin (see p.14). On this branch line, 8m. N. from Nevers,
+is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nivre, with the important ironworks
+called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards of 1300 men. 24m.
+farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste;
+with a very beautiful church, St. Pre, 13th and 14th cents., surmounted
+by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant triforium and a
+beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of St. Eugenie. 44m.
+S. from La Roche and 64m. N. from Nevers is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p.15);
+_Inns:_ Boule d'Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne with
+the Beuvron. On the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of
+Jean Rouvet, the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from
+the forests is floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of
+St. Martin, 12th to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Genevive by
+Simart, ahandsome organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos
+on the high altar. Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of
+the Dukes of Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the
+prison occupy one large building.
+
+22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction.
+Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178m. E. (see p.24).
+Branch to Le Creusot and Autun (see p.24).
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINCAIZE.]
+
+{154}{ }
++SAINCAIZE+, 600 ft. above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38m. W.
+(See Black's _South France_, West Half.)
+
+
+[Headnote: MOULINS.]
+
+{195}{335}
++MOULINS+, pop. 22,000. _Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer;
+in. the town, Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
+Acheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along the
+banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 arches,
+and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral of Notre
+Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The faade, over
+which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with colonnettes
+of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned with
+statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
+lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
+with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
+mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
+fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
+Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an "Adoration
+of the Virgin" of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
+large square tower called "La tour mal coiffe," 15th cent., now a
+prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
+of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
+houses are within and around the Place de l'Allier. In that square is
+also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
+the chapel of the Lyce, No. 15 Rue de Paris, alittle beyond the Palais
+de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, Renaudan and
+Poipant, of HenriII., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of Henri IV., and one
+of the bravest marshals of France. He had the misfortune to draw upon
+himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the displeasure of Louis
+XIII., which led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the
+30th October 1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria
+Orsini, caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to
+the convent of the nuns "de la Visitation." The statues, all of the
+finest Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture
+and the duchess seated near him. Fee, fr. In the Htel de Ville is the
+public library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th
+cent, called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving
+statues, is mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.
+
+[Headnote: DUKE OF BERWICK. STERNE'S MARIA.]
+
+Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed some
+time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the
+Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died on
+the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
+CharlesII. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, Duke
+of Berwick, amarshal and peer of France, natural son of James Duke of
+York, afterwards JamesII., by Arabella Churchill, sister of the great
+Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of August 1670, and
+died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: "In the works of
+PlutarchI have seen at a distance what great men were; in Marshal
+BerwickI have seen what they are." By the side of the Paris road, under
+a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, with
+her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
+intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
+melancholy. (See Sterne's _Sentimental Journey_, "Maria.")
+
+[Headnote: SOUVIGNY.]
+
+9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is +Souvigny+, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix
+d'Or. At the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
+basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
+periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
+Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of LouisII.,
+Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is that of Duc
+CharlesI. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels are enclosed in
+a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the left of the
+principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of the Zodiac
+sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of the
+street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of humble
+rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10m. N. to Bourbon
+l'Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Htel de l'cu). It
+stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow the traveller
+to cast a rapid glance over this pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and
+Auvergne architecture of the 11th cent. (See map, p.1.)
+
+[Headnote: BOURBON-L'ARCHAMBAULT-BATHS. ST. PARDOUX SPRING.]
+
++Bourbon-l'Archambault+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Close to the bathing
+establishment, the Htel Montespan, on the site of the house which used
+to be occupied by Madame de Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds.
+distant the Htel de France. On a hill at the northern side of this
+ancient town are the ruins of the once strong feudal castle of Bourbon,
+commenced by LouisI. in 1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc
+PierreII. Four massive towers, built of stone, with projecting points,
+still remain of the twenty-four which it had originally.
+ On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
+ commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In
+ the centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which,
+ besides supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for
+ drinking and domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous,
+ easily digested, slightly saline and aperient, and 128 Fahr.
+ One-sixth of its volume is free carbonic acid gas, besides the same
+ acid in combination with lime, magnesia, and soda; and some salts of
+ bromine, iodine, and iron. It is eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and
+ tonic, and excellent for rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula.
+ Between the bathing establishment and the church is the cold water
+ spring called the "Source de Jonas," containing bicarbonates of lime
+ and magnesia, chlorides of soda and magnesia, silicates of lime,
+ alumina, and soda, the carbonate of iron and the oxide of manganese.
+ The water is tonic and slightly laxative. 9m. S. from Bourbon is
+ +St. Pardoux+, in a wooded and hilly country, forming one of the best
+ drives from Bourbon. There is here a spring of remarkably sparkling
+ water, 5/6ths of its volume being free carbonic acid gas. It contains
+ the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, silicates of lime and
+ alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is delightful to the taste, very
+ pungent, and, owing to the presence of so much carbonic acid gas,
+ slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly diuretic, and
+ stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre bottles at
+ Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the height of her
+ power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her health, and here
+ she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast off and deserted
+ by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is Commentry (see map,
+ p. 1).
+
+ From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
+ 17m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station for
+ Bourbon-Lancy; 29 m. E., Saint Agnan; 35m. E., Digoin; and 41m.
+ E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and map, p.1).
+
+ +Dompierre-sur-Bebre+, pop. 2230. _Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d'Or. Coal
+ and iron found in this neighbourhood. The country is undulating and
+ well cultivated. Near the next station, Diou on the Loire, is the
+ Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th
+ cent., and now an agricultural school.
+
+[Headnote: GILLY.]
+
+ +Gilly+, station for +Bourbon-Lancy+, pop. 3300, 8m. N. by the
+ Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, fare 1 fr. _Inn:_: H.
+ Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for drives can be had. The village,
+ situated on an eminence, is full of old houses, of which the best are
+ near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the valley at the foot of the
+ eminence is the suburb of +St. Leger+, with an excellent small
+ +Bathing Establishment+, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132
+ Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
+ baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
+ chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
+ calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime
+ and magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the
+ water is the most important, but here it is the external application
+ by baths and other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of
+ nervous and cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every
+ form of rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and
+ furnished with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of
+ the water to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by
+ itself, is a swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29 wide and 5 deep, filled
+ with the mineral water cooled down to 90 Fahr. The surplus water is
+ still carried off by the underground channels constructed by the
+ Romans. At intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk
+ down to the bed of the outlet.
+
+ On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M.
+ and Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. Amonument to their
+ memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
+ Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the
+ establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes,
+ pension 8 frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7 frs.; for a
+ lady, 6frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge for the baths and
+ Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. Le Regisseur
+ des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of considerable
+ interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several important
+ cities are within a few hours by rail.
+
+ A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ H. de
+ Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal mines. 6m. farther
+ is +Digoin+, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in the town; at the
+ station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth cent. Suspension bridge
+ across the Loire.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSS.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{220}{310}
++ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES+, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
+rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
+for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. H. du
+Pare (bed 2frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of the station is
+the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. 7m. S. from St.
+Germain and 227m. S. from Paris is
+
+
+ [Map: Vichy]
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS AND THEIR CHARGES.]
+
+VICHY
+
+on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. _Hotels:_ The
+largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the most elegantly
+furnished are:--The Nouvel Htel, pension 25 frs.; the H.Parc, 12 to 20
+frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, 12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand
+Htel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.
+
+The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
+furniture is not so costly.
+ The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
+ which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9 to 15 frs.; the Princes,
+ 9 to 15 frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12 to 15 frs.; the G.H. Velay
+ et des Anglais, 9 to 13 frs.; Royal Hotel, Amiraut, 7 to 10 frs.;
+ and H. de la Restauration. Almost adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H.
+ Moliere, 8 to 12 frs., a smaller house. In all the above hotels,
+ excepting in the first three, servants are taken at the rate of 6frs.
+ per day. The above prices include everything except the charge of
+ 1 fr. for candles at the end of the stay.
+
+ Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande
+ Grille, is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the
+ Etablissement, the H. Britannique, 7 to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8 to
+ 10 frs.; and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8 to 11 frs., amore
+ handsome house.
+
+ In the Rue Petit, near the Chlets in the Boulevard National, *H.
+ d'Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally full.
+
+ In the Place de l'Htel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
+ H. d'Espagne, 6 to 10 frs., a small house served principally by the
+ family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8 to 10 frs., fronting likewise the
+ Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.
+
+ In the Place Rosalie are the +Source de l'Hpital+ and the Banque de
+ Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.
+
+ In the Rue de Nmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row
+ of houses, is the H. de Nice, 8 to 10 frs.; one side faces the
+ church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9 to
+ 10 frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; H. Fnlon; H.
+ du Regence, 8 to 9 frs.; Orleans and Milan same price.
+
+ In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
+ station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open all
+ the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7 to 9 frs.; the Suisse; H.
+ Dubessay; *Couronne, 8 to 9 frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8 frs.;
+ Cote d'Or, 7 to 7 frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the year--all between
+ the railway station and the Etablissement.
+
+ At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Htel
+ Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
+ hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de
+ Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.
+
+ In the Rue de Nmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
+ the G. H. Palais, 7 to 10 frs.; Genve; Milan; Bordeaux. Near the
+ entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H.Venise, 8 to 9frs. and
+ the H. Palais-Royal.
+
+ There are a great many maisons meubles, in which furnished rooms are
+ let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and fr. for service. Lodgers
+ can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, and
+ eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
+ Among the maisons meubles are the Villa Svign (in which Madame
+ resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.
+
+ Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meubles before
+ deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue
+ de Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently
+ comfortable without being expensive.
+
+ Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
+ best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information
+ regarding the different doctors can be had.
+
+ Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September,
+ forms a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels
+ presided over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6 to
+ 25 frs. per day, which includes wine, service, and everything else.
+ The best situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
+ Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
+ town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
+ where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern
+ end of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise,
+ 13th and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous
+ coins have been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief
+ Vercingetorix, as well as many Roman objects belonging to all the
+ epochs of the empire. In 1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded
+ Vichy with a moat and fortified walls, within which he erected his
+ castle; but of it all that remains is the great clock-tower or
+ belfry.
+
+[Headnote: MINERAL WATER ESTABLISHMENT.]
+
+ At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
+ +Mineral Water Establishment+, composed of two large buildings--1st,
+ The "Grand Etablissement," containing only first-class baths;
+ a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 cabinets
+ with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on the
+ western side the gentlemen's baths, and on the eastern side the
+ ladies'. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each
+ bath costs 2 frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter
+ is allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs.
+ In front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring
+ Chomel, is the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers' names and
+ for the sale of the bath tickets.
+
+ 2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
+ and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1 frs. and 60
+ c. each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the
+ quality of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels
+ supplied. The baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from
+ the same springs. The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
+ shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
+ in a single day. They commence at 3.30 A.M. and continue till 5 P.M.,
+ but at one part of the season till even later. But it must always be
+ remembered that the external application of the water is not nearly so
+ important as the internal. Patients may visit Vichy, at any time; but
+ the season suited to follow with success the course of treatment is
+ from the 15th May till the beginning of October. The month of May is
+ sometimes rainy. August and September are generally the driest months,
+ and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. The
+ waters are taken in the morning and during the day, and baths daily or
+ every second day. For elderly people with sanguine and irritable
+ temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of the bath
+ should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.
+
+[Headnote: CASINO.]
+
+ At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the +Casino+, ahandsome
+ comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
+ and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
+ park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
+ elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the
+ building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
+ theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats
+ for 800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the
+ reading, billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One
+ entrance ticket, 2frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every
+ morning, a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
+ A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
+ members; also books, pianos, and music. Aprofessor of billiards is
+ attached to the Casino.
+
+[Headnote: THE VICHY SPRINGS.]
+
+ +The Vichy Springs.+--The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
+ They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
+ carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
+ each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
+ eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
+ organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
+ specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees
+ best with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain
+ peculiarities which may assist him to discover the most suitable
+ spring. The maximum quantity which can be taken daily with advantage
+ is from 24 to 28 oz. The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz.,
+ taken at different times throughout the day, and not necessarily from
+ the same spring. The water may with advantage be mixed with the wine
+ taken at dinner. Carafes are filled at the springs without any charge.
+ In the shops are sold graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided
+ into three equal parts. 30 grammes equal 1 oz.
+
+ +The Springs and their peculiarities.+--Under the vestibule of the
+ principal establishment are three important springs--the Grande
+ Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan).
+
+[Headnote: GRANDE-GRILLE, CHOMEL, MESDAMES.]
+
+ +The Grande-Grille+, 110 Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
+ with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of
+ the viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
+ gravel.
+
+ The +Puits-Chomel+, 113 Fahr. The water of this spring possesses
+ marked anodyne properties, which render it very valuable whenever the
+ weakened state of the constitution or its irritability requires to be
+ moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters it contains the least
+ carbonic acid without being more difficult of digestion, and as, on
+ the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can in many cases
+ profitably replace the other springs.
+
+ +Mesdames+, 61 Fahr., highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of
+ chlorosis, amenorrhoea, and in debility following loss of blood. In
+ cases where the constitution has been weakened without any evident
+ derangement it stimulates the energy of the digestive functions so as
+ to enable the patient to recover his usual strength.
+
+ The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carr, 113
+ Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
+ supplying the baths.
+
+[Headnote: PRUNELLE, PARC, HPITAL.]
+
+ About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
+ opposite the military hospital, is the +Source Prunelle+, acold
+ spring, recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
+ A little farther E. is the +Source Lucas, 84 Fahr.+, principally
+ employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
+ beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
+ park, opposite the Htel de la Paix, is the +Source du Parc, 71
+ Fahr.+, recommended for sluggish action of the digestive organs,
+ atonic derangement of the intestines, and affections of the bronchial
+ tube caused by chronic irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the
+ Casino, in front of the town hospital, is the +Source de l'Hpital+ or
+ Rosalie, 89 Fahr., resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less
+ exciting. It is recommended to those affected with diseases of the
+ digestive organs, dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhoea, and
+ dysentery; and is particularly useful to literary men whose digestive
+ functions are deranged from mental labour. It renders important
+ service in ovarian tumours and other diseases of females.
+
+[Headnote: CELESTINS.]
+
+ A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
+ important springs, the +Sources des Celestins+, 54 and 58 Fahr., of
+ which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
+ largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
+ their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
+ springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of
+ the urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able
+ to digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with
+ either the "Hpital" or the "Grande Grille" spring. In all cases the
+ water of the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with
+ caution. Just beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and
+ near the Parc des Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment.
+ The water, 77 Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a
+ stimulating action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily
+ eliminated, and is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids.
+ "Stomach disorder, attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many
+ cases capable of being cured or materially relieved by the use of one
+ or other of the Vichy waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia)
+ and diminished power of the stomach, the Hpital spring in some cases,
+ the Lardy and Mesdames in others, would be most likely to have a
+ beneficial effect: in other cases, where a more energetic action is
+ required, the Grande Grille would be preferable." --_Dr. E.Lee._
+
+[Headnote: SOURCE HAUTERIVE. INFLUENCE OF VICHY WATER.]
+
+ 3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the +Source
+ Hauterive+, 57 Fahr., used principally for exportation. In
+ therapeutical qualities it resembles the Celestins.
+
+ The principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
+ in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
+ dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty
+ degeneration or cirrhosis, and in hmorrhoidal affections, which are
+ so often connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally
+ serviceable in enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of
+ hypochondriasis. Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure
+ of some of the chronic diseases of women connected with disordered
+ menstruation, and for the anomalous "critical complaints" which often
+ set in at the period of life when this function ceases. "The complaint
+ for which nine-tenths of the English visitors drink these springs is
+ gout; but it should be distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a
+ specific for gout; it can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving
+ the tone of the digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and
+ correcting the abnormally acid condition of the blood." --_Madden's
+ Health Resorts._ "The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have,
+ however, a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in
+ cases of either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or
+ internal, acute or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in
+ the interval of attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack.
+ If too near the last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there
+ is almost as much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its
+ action in a crisis." --_Dr. Daumas._ "We may then sum up the effects
+ of a Vichy course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the
+ digestive and assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general
+ health. The tone of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes
+ easier and more rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The
+ bile flows more freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhoea, if
+ previously present, ceases. The consequence of these changes is better
+ assimilation, and therefore flesh is often gained. With the
+ improvement in nutrition the colour returns to the cheeks and energy
+ to the mind." --_Dr. P. James._
+
+
+ CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE PRINCIPAL SPRINGS.
+
+ GG Grande Grille P Park
+ Ch Chomel H Hopital
+ Md Mesdammes Ce Celestins
+ L Lucas Hr Haute-rive
+
+ +------------------+------------------------------------------------+
+ | Acids and Bases | NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. |
+ | contained in +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | each litre. | GG | Ch | Md | L | P | H | Ce | Hr |
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ |Carbonic Acid |4.418|4.429|5.029 |5.348|5.071|4.719|4.705|5.640|
+ |Sulphuric " | .164| .164| .141 | .164| .177| .164| .164| .164|
+ |Phosphoric " | .070| .038|traces| .038| .076| .025| .050| .625|
+ |Arsenic " | .001| .001| .002 | .001| .001| .001| .001| .001|
+ |Hydrochloric Acid | .332| .334| .222 | .324| .344| .324| .234| .334|
+ |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
+ |Protoxide of Iron | .002| .002| .012 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .008|
+ |Lime | .169| .169| .235 | .212| .239| .222| .180| .168|
+ |Strontia | .002| .002| .002 | .008| .003| .003| .003| .002|
+ |Magnesia | .097| .108| .134 | .088| .068| .064| .105| .160|
+ |Potash | .182| .192| .098 | .146| .151| .228| .163| .098|
+ |Soda |2.488|2.536|1.957 |2.501|2.500|2.500|2.560|2.368|
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | TOTALS |7.997|8.043|7.866 |8.877|8.687|8.302|8.327|9.039|
+ | | | | | | | | | |
+ | Saline | | | | | | | | |
+ | ingredients | | | | | | | | |
+ | in each litre. | | | | | | | | |
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ |Free Carbonic Acid| .908| .768|1.908 |1.751|1.555|1.067|1.049|2.183|
+ |Bicarb. of Soda |4.883|5.091| 4.016|5.004|4.857|5.029|5.103|4.687|
+ | " Potash | .352| .371| .185 | .282| .292| .440| .315| .189|
+ | " Magnesia | .303| .338| .429 | .275| .213| .200| .328| .501|
+ | " Strontia | .303| .003| .003 | .005| .005| .005| .005| .003|
+ | " Lime | .434| .427| .604 | .545| .614| .570| .462| .432|
+ | " Protox. of Iron| .004| .004| .026 | .004| .004| .004| .004| .017|
+ |Sulphate of Soda | .291| .291| .250 | .291| .314| .291| .291| .291|
+ |Phosphate | .130| .070|traces| .070| .140| .046| .091| .046|
+ |Arseniate | .002| .002| .003 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .002|
+ |Chloride of Sodium| .534| .534| .355 | .518| .550| .518| .534| .534|
+ |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
+ | +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+ | TOTALS |7.914|7.959|7.811 |8.797|8.601|8.222|8.244|8.956|
+ +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
+
+ The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
+ slightly from the Clestins.
+
+ In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
+ spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.
+
+
++Excursions.+
+
+ CAB FARES.--The course within the town from 6 A.M. to 12 P.M. with 1
+ horse, 1 fr.; 2 horses, 2 frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first
+ hour, 3frs., and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9frs.;
+ the day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4frs., the
+ following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, 25
+ frs.
+
+ Art. 17--The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is always
+ fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the entire
+ hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.
+
+ Art. 18.--The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
+ rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.
+
+[Headnote: DRIVES. CUSSET.]
+
+ For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
+ beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
+ Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, 7frs.;
+ 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and back, from
+ Vichy to Charmeil, Cte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, and
+ Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisire, there and back, 1 horse, 8frs.; 2
+ horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20
+ frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisire, 1 horse, 16 frs.; 2 horses,
+ 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To
+ Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, 18 frs.; 2
+ horses, 24 frs.
+
+ +Cusset+, pop. 6200, on the Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du
+ Centre, in the Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At
+ the entrance into the town is the +Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie+,
+ a neat building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked
+ with turrets. Opposite are the "Sources Ste. Marie" and Elizabeth,
+ both cold. The baths cost 1 fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the
+ afternoon only 1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as
+ those of Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.
+
+ From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2m. S.E. Take the
+ road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, but
+ walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
+ called the "Cte des Justices," because on it criminals suffered the
+ extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into
+ a miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the
+ prettiest part, 1 m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment
+ rooms. Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually
+ widens and flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and
+ on the Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a
+ castle said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission,
+ 1 fr. each.
+
+[Headnote: MONTAGNE-VERTE.]
+
+ 2 m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
+ ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a
+ good view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk
+ in the neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the
+ cemetery.
+
+ +Vichy to Busset+ by Cusset and the Ardoisire, 10m. S.Return by St.
+ Yorre, where the rail may be taken.
+
+[Headnote: GRIVATS.]
+
+ The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of
+ the Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous
+ for the manufacture of the Toiles de Vichy, called also Grivats,
+ a variegated cotton stuff used for gowns and petticoats. The best
+ quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1 fr. the mtre (1-1/8 yard);
+ the inferior qualities, made chiefly at Roanne, cost from 75 c. to
+ 1fr. the mtre. At Grivats they are all made by handlooms in the
+ houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in Vichy for this article
+ is that of Delorme-Desfougres, Rue de l'Hpital.
+
+ From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country,
+ reaches the Ardoisire, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7m. S.
+ from Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned
+ slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The
+ favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the
+ Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy
+ rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Chteau des Templiers
+ on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive
+ view.
+
+[Headnote: BUSSET.]
+
+ The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
+ Busset, 2m. from the Ardoisire, or 10 m. from Vichy by this road.
+ Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the
+ Chteau Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission
+ readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset,
+ on the E. side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail
+ may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N.
+
+ Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisire by the valley of the Suhan and
+ the village of Arronnes is Ferrires, with, in the neighbourhood, the
+ ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent,
+ the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fes, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time
+ required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.
+
+[Headnote: RANDAN. VESSE-INTERMITTENT-SPRING.]
+
+ +Vichy to Randan.+--Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
+ A.M.; arrives at Randan at 1 P.M.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back
+ to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2 frs. The castle of Randan is
+ open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4m., by
+ Maulmont costs 3 frs.
+
+ The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
+ hand a small house with the sign SOURCE INTERMITTENTE. In the garden
+ is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every
+ 6 or 7 hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of
+ 16 ft. above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30
+ minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it
+ contains. Admission, 25 c.
+
+ From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of
+ the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Schauds and the Bois
+ Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
+ extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
+ belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
+ several drawings by the gifted Marie d'Orleans, the rooms of Madame
+ Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, abeautiful little chapel,
+ and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E.
+ through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by
+ Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery
+ of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the
+ suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by
+ rail or by the high road along the E. side of the river.
+
+[Headnote: ST. YORRE. RIS.]
+
+ +Vichy to Thiers+ by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5m. S. from
+ Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water
+ establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water,
+ which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.
+
+ The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5m.
+ from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the station
+ the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
+ bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1m. W.The broad
+ road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce thes) about 1m. E.
+ It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the
+ principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles
+ and nave and semicircular apse.
+
+[Headnote: CHATELDON. THIERS.]
+
+ For +Chateldon+, 3 m. S.E. from station, take the road that follows
+ the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting
+ than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron,
+ surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the "Place" is the
+ principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7frs., whence the coach
+ starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the
+ mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the
+ side of the Vauziron.
+
+ +Maringues+ is 11 m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de
+ Guillaume, 3 m. S. from the station.
+
+ 23 m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
+ +Thiers+, pop. 16,230. _Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d'Or; Univers; all near
+ each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also
+ approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous
+ country.
+
+ Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
+ built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
+ above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the "Place."
+ At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
+ the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
+ different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
+ surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The
+ manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the
+ inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in
+ the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the
+ part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the
+ foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers,
+ of the 11th cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th.
+ From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle
+ to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left
+ is St. Jean, 14th cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St.
+ Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently
+ restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a
+ fresco, 16th cent., representing Mary among angels entering heaven.
+ The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of
+ Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de
+ la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest
+ are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the
+ Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are
+ those of Mont d'Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From
+ Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St.
+ Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty
+ mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After
+ leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source.
+ 3 m. from Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see
+ below).
+
+ Vichy to the Chteau d'Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
+ Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.
+
+[Headnote: GANNAT. AIGUEPERSE.]
+
+ The Chteau d'Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to
+ Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
+ unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous
+ Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his
+ creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now
+ partially restored. 3 m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont,
+ is +Aigueperse+, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. Acoach runs between
+ Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the
+ railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Chteau of Charmeil on
+ the Allier, 3 m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon
+ drive.
+
+ 2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of
+ the Chteau de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and
+ most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old
+ houses.
+
+ 17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on
+ the Bbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l'cu; with a castle (14th cent.)
+ on an eminence overlooking the town (see p.346).
+
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{224}{ }
++SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT+, 867 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+{235}{294}
++GANNAT+, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Nord; Poste. Atown of crooked streets, on
+the Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of
+St. Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
+good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
+by J. du Paroy. In the "Place" are two houses, one belonging to the
+Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
+Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
+the Chemins de Fer d'Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
+Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black's _Normandy, Brittany, and
+Touraine_.
+
+
+{242}{288}
++AIGUEPERSE+, pop. 2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d'Or. The finest
+building is the Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Htel de Ville is in
+a convent of the Ursulines, built in 1650. Acoach from this station
+goes to Randan in the Limagne, 8m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful
+castle of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in 1822 by Mme.
+Ad. d'Orleans. 2 m. distant, on the border of the forest of Randan, is
+another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the Middle Ages. See
+under excursions from Vichy.
+
+
+[Headnote: RIOM.]
+
+{253}{277}
++RIOM+, 1105 ft. above the sea, pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H.Paris; Poste;
+Puy-de-Dome. Diligences to Volvic, 3m. S.W.; to Chtelguyon, 5m. N.;
+and to Chteauneuf, 20m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is
+St. Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each
+pier having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is
+the same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near
+St. Amable is the Tour de l'Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few
+15th and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l'Horloge,
+is the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
+Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
+choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
+called the "Htel Chabrol" is the museum and picture gallery.
+
+ 20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A.M., are the mineral
+ baths of +Chteauneuf+, pop. 1000. _Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier.
+ Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60 to 102
+ Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous
+ affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings.
+ Bath, 1 fr.
+
+ 5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of
+ Chtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_
+ Bains; Thermes; Barthlemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment
+ with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the
+ bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp.
+ 100 Fahr.
+
+ 3 m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava.
+ Visit the church, the Muse in the Mairie, and the workshops where the
+ lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugre is hewn (see
+ p. 377).
+
+
+[Headnote: CLERMONT-FERRAND.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{260}{269}
++CLERMONT-FERRAND+, 1335 ft. above the sea, pop. 43,000, on an eminence
+crowned by the cathedral, of which the principal faade, the west
+entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, while the chancel or eastern
+end is towards the railway station. _Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are
+the *Univers; *Poste, for commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de
+Jaude are the Paix; France. All the above are large houses. Near the
+Acadmie and the Botanic Gardens, the H. des Facults, asmall but good
+house. Among the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
+Voyageurs. Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St.
+Amand, and Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the
+Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the "Place" are a large cabstand and
+offices where carriages may be hired for excursions.
+
+[Headnote: POST OFFICE. CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side
+of the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there
+is a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem
+is a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
+Alittle beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is the
+Temple Protestant, service 1 P.M. The first narrow street beyond the
+post office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.
+
+Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moist
+and crystalline (glac) state.
+
+The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the
+9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volvic
+lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on the
+N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or,
+including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which rise
+nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above,
+the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on four
+fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towards
+the apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches 1/3
+narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave dates
+from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, having been injured by
+a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N.
+transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S.
+transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its three
+men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Ten
+chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is a
+miracle-working image of Mary and Child.
+
+The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
+Vernines, asmall kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
+principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
+to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
+is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
+shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
+born.
+
+[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DU PORT.]
+
+The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
+Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. The
+large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
+Justice, the Htel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
+these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port,
+built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866,
+according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. The
+exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes,
+while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns in
+mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower.
+
+In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round the
+nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitals
+sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
+surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
+less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
+massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
+window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
+ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.
+
+Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
+Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
+and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
+when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
+which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
+miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
+for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
+Mary.
+
+It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope UrbanII. and
+Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake the
+first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediate
+inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, "It is the will of God!" which
+words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of the
+Crusaders.
+
+The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide Rue
+Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
+Acadmie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
+the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
+Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.
+
+[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
+
+Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable part
+is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit trees
+and vines. Attached is the cole de Pisciculture, with tanks and a small
+aquarium. Near the Academy is the Htel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made at
+Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easily
+on the stomach.
+
+[Headnote: ROMAGNAT.]
+
+3 m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M.Rognon,
+1875 ft., and 1m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., the site of the
+principal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended by
+Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Csar, whom he
+compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
+supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
+Les Laumes, p.19.)
+
+Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
+Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l'Arbre;
+or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
++Baraque+, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.
+
+The +Puy-de-Dome+ is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater,
+and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough
+spongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of
+which the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named
+domite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often
+friable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed
+trachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The
+most perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the
+Nid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory,
+connected with the keeper's house by an underground way. On the Puy are
+also the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernab, 2d or 3d cent., and of a
+Gallo-Roman temple to Mercury.
+
+For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see
+p.376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121m. E. by Courty
+(where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal
+(see p.349).
+
+From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nmes ascends the course of the
+Allier to La Bastide, 116m. S.Some parts of the valley are very
+picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267m., Le Cendre, 1145
+ft.; 270m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; 272m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164
+ft.; 276m., Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the
+town is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux,
+13th cent.
+
+
+[Headnote: ISSOIRE.]
+
+{282}{247}
++ISSOIRE+, pop. 6400, and 1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste;
+Pezissat; opposite each other in the principal street. It is a clean
+little town. The principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a
+highly interesting specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
+exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
+sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
+elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
+characteristic beauties of the style. Amosaic decoration of
+differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
+chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
+Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
+painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
+eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
+below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
+complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
+altar.
+
+
+[Headnote: LE BREUIL.]
+
+{287}{242}
++LE BREUIL+, 1287 ft., pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H.Beranger.
+Coaches await passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town,
+2m. W., and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a
+hilly and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4m. from St. Germain,
+abathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
+carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
+ 2 m. farther is +Ardes+; _Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence
+ rising from the Couze. In the low part of the village is the church,
+ 11th cent., but restored and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone
+ cross (1519) with Mary and Child against it, resting on a
+ demure-looking figure holding an open book. The valley of the Couze,
+ between high wooded mountains and great basaltic cliffs, offers an
+ excellent field for geological and botanical rambles, while the river
+ itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot of the mountains,
+ through little meadows by the side of the road, contains excellent
+ trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below are apricot,
+ apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed among small
+ vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic formation is
+ between the first bridge and the village of Rentire, perched on a
+ basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way beyond, on the right
+ or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff resembling a
+ statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About 4m. up the
+ valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravire, destroyed by lightning in
+ 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest and most
+ imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About 5m.
+ up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of St.
+ Pesade.
+
+ 2 m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, avillage with mineral
+ waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
+ Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3 m. farther S., 1322 ft. above
+ the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
+ clay.
+
+
+[Headnote: ARVANT.]
+
+ miles from PARIS
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{298}{232}
++ARVANT+, 1400 ft., a dirty hamlet on the Vergonghon, an affluent of
+the Allier. The best of the inns is the H.Voyageurs. Junction here with
+the line to Capdenac, 110m. S.W., traversing the whole of the
+interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See Black's _South
+France_, West Half.)
+
+From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30 m. S.W. from Arvant, commences the
+loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
+woodless highlands of Lozre, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
+and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
+between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11m. S. from Neussargues,
+7m. S. from St. Flour, and 37m. N. from Marvejols, is the highest
+bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine of
+the Truyre 400 ft. above the river. The span of the great arch is 541
+ft., and the length of the viaduct 1851ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: BRIOUDE.]
+
+{304}{226}
++BRIOUDE+, 1430 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce.
+Adirty town on a tableland, 1m. from the Allier. The parish church
+St. Julien (restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. faade,
+of red sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three
+portals. The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain
+buttresses, over which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the
+church is another portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large
+semicircular arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns
+bearing large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance,
+but plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in
+the two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
+lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
+cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
+chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
+stones.
+
+The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
+with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
+capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
+triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
+profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
+beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.
+
+Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Htel
+de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain.
+
+
+[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC.]
+
+{318}{211}
++ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC+, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, near
+the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32m. E., and for St. Etienne
+54m. farther. (See p.91, and map p.46.)
+
+
+[Headnote: LANGEAC.]
+
+{323}{207}
++LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p.91, and map
+p.46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the train passes through a most
+picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast masses of basalt,
+either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonal
+columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between vertical
+cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried past
+in the train. 3m. S. from Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000,
+on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains of
+the old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at the
+next station, Chazes, 8m. S. from Langeac, is an interesting church,
+11th cent., against a rock. Then follow the stations of
+Monistrol-d'Allier, 2000 ft. (p.91); Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure,
+2238ft.
+
+
+[Headnote: LANGOGNE.]
+
+{364}{165}
++LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc;
+Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt
+here. (See pp.88 and 94, and map p.46.) 7m. farther S. is Luc
+station, 2900 ft.; and 4m. farther S., La Bastide, 3070 ft., the
+culminating point of the line. Afew miles to the W. of the station is
+the source of the Allier. At Prevenchres, 6m. S., the station is only
+2580 ft. above the sea. The line now passes by immense rocks and cliffs
+of granite.
+
+
+{390}{140}
++VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft., pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devze, in a
+deep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozre. Diligences at this station for
+Mende, passing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23m.W.
+
+ +Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
+ A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
+ Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
+ unctuous and clear water, temperature 100 Fahr., efficacious in
+ rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
+ neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
+ plenty of game on the mountains.
+
+From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country
+by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the two
+stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc
+mines commence which extend to Alais.
+
+
+[Headnote: ALAIS.]
+
+{419}{111}
++ALAIS+, pop. 22,000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg;
+Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and
+Tamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is the
+best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozre,
+traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some very
+capital wine is made at Alais.
+
+Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62m. N.E. to Teil (see
+p.96, and map p.56); also to Laudun, 35m. E. (see p.99, and map
+p.56).
+
+
+{450}{80}
++NMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{467}{63}
++TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{470}{60}
++ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{499}{30}
++ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{512}{17}
++ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66).
+
+
+{518}{12}
++PAS-DES-LANCIERS.+
+
+
+{530}{ }
++MARSEILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123).
+
+
+[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART.]
+
+ miles from CLERMONT
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
++Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+,
+
+122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3 m., Durtol 5m., Volvic 12m.,
+Vauriat 17m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20m., Pont-Gibaud 24m., La
+Miouze-Rochefort 28m., Bourgheade-Herment 35m., Laqueuille 40m.,
+Meymac 73m., and Tulle 105m. S.W. from Clermont and 16m. N.E. from
+Brive.
+
+From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the
+highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
+station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
+adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
+Royat are H.Chabassire; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher
+up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded
+in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and
+fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low
+tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the
+small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt
+supported on six colonnettes.
+
+In the "Place" is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
+J.C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The
+narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the
+Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs
+of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to
+flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to
+Clermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing the
+Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the
+valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the
+bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most
+important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment;
+temperature, 100 Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate of
+sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a
+little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1
+fr. to 2 frs. according to the season.
+
+Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment
+the H. St. Mart; the H.Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-class
+houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre;
+Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1m.
+from Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalires. Agreat variety
+of excursions in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+ miles from CLERMONT
+ miles to MARSEILLES
+
+{5}{117}
++DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains.
+
+
+[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD.]
+
+{12}{109}
++VOLVIC.+ In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries of
+lava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugre, 3261 ft.
+Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent view
+of Riom, 3m. E. from Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on
+an eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Bannire. The parish church
+dates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are
+the principal industries (see p.369).
+
+The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17m., St. Ours-les-Roches
+20m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24m.
+distant. _Inns:_ H.Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await
+passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the
+Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater
+of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important
+argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.
+
+
+[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE.]
+
+{40}{81}
++LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. above the sea. Change here for
+Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10m. S.E., and for Bourboule 8m. S.W. The
+beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore passes through at about halfway
+the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above the sea. Immediately below Le
+Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule passes through the village of
+St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.
+
+
++MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+
+
+ is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the
+ Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._--Considering the style of
+ their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
+ the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
+ coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
+ difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
+ the "Place" of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
+ Chabaury ain; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc
+ and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
+ rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be
+ considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are
+ apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H.Bardet-Chanonat;
+ H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H.Ramade; H.
+ Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
+ handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
+ the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
+ Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
+ other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.
+
+ The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
+ adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
+ treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
+ within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
+ Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113 Fahr. Besides containing the
+ usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
+ two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
+ bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
+ temperature 107, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises
+ in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the
+ Source Csar, temperature 113, used chiefly for baths. Towards the
+ left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55, used
+ at table mixed with the wine.
+
+ Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
+ little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow
+ in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others
+ are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act
+ upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate
+ arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.
+
+ The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
+ month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
+ July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs
+ then 2frs., at other times 1 fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
+ Baths from 92 to 100 should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
+ 109 to 112, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
+ in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the
+ sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
+ tickets bought at the office of the baths.
+
+ [Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule.]
+
+[Headnote: ANALYSIS OF THE WATER.]
+
+ CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE.
+
+ MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring.
+ PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring.
+ RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perrire and
+ Choussy Springs.
+
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+ | | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS |
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+ |Free carbonic |0.3552 |0.3810 |0.3644 |0.5967 |0.4997 |0.0518 |
+ | acid gas | | | | | | |
+ |Bicarbonate |0.5362 |0.5452 |0.5375 |0.5361 |0.5362 |2.8920 |
+ | of soda | | | | | | |
+ | " of potash |0.0309 |0.0309 |0.0232 |0.0212 |0.0212 | .... |
+ | " of lime |0.3423 |0.3142 |0.3092 |0.3209 |0.2720 |0.1905 |
+ | " of magnesia |0.1757 |0.1676 |0.1628 |0.1676 |0.1647 | .... |
+ | " of protoxide |0.0207 |0.0235 |0.025 |0.0258 |0.0317 |0.0021 |
+ | of iron | | | | | | |
+ |Chloride of Sodium|0.3685 |0.3630 |0.3599 |0.3587 |0.3578 |2.8406 |
+ |Sulphate of soda |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0756 |0.0737 |0.2084 |
+ |Arseniate of soda |0.00096|0.00096|0.00096|0.0009 |0.00095|0.02847|
+ |Silicic acid |0.1654 |0.1686 |0.1653 |0.1552 |0.1550 |0.1200 |
+ |Alumina |0.0112 |0.0094 |0.0101 |0.0083 |0.0065 |Traces.|
+ +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
+
+ Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
+ potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both
+ waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29
+ times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore.
+ The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140 F., or
+ 27 above the hottest of Mont-Dore.
+
+ These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
+ asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
+ marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
+ nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden's _Health
+ Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily
+ by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and
+ is often attended with diarrhoea about the fifth or sixth day; this is
+ mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently
+ lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of
+ the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the
+ saturation point has been obtained. --Lee's _Baths_.
+
+ As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, asupply of warm clothing
+ is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20
+ to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH.]
+
+ _Excursions._--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around
+ Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests
+ and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen
+ waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against
+ the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the
+ craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls
+ over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The
+ Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of
+ finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the
+ different places.
+
+ One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du
+ Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way
+ between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most
+ beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from
+ Lake Gury (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls.
+ The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue,
+ tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls
+ of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the
+ falls of the Rossignolet, aplacid stream which enters the ravine of
+ Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion
+ may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.
+
+ Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
+ made to the Cascades de l'Angle 1 m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1m., and
+ to the Pr du Barbier.
+
+[Headnote: LAKE GURY.]
+
+ The excursion to Lake Gury, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to
+ Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a
+ turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a
+ charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To
+ the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the
+ Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d'Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy.
+ Lake Gury, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1m. W.
+ from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged
+ peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile,
+ stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillire, 4246 ft., one
+ side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right
+ the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of
+ the Giant's Causeway.
+
+[Headnote: ORCIVAL.]
+
+ 4 m. N. from Lake Gury is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an
+ inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous
+ image found near it under the earth. 2 m. W. from the Orcival road is
+ the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From
+ Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11m. S.
+
+ N.E. from Lake Gury, or 9 m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
+ 5076 ft., is Lake Servires, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in
+ an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient
+ camp.
+
+ 9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
+ menhirs.
+
+ The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12m. E.
+ from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
+ less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.
+
+ From Murols the road ascends 5 m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by
+ Lake Pavin to Vassivires, 5 m. W. from Besse. At Vassivires a
+ bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see
+ p. 381).
+
+ To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2m., the
+ cascades of Vernire 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3m. (p.385); and the
+ top of the Puy Gros 3m. (p. 385).
+
+[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN.]
+
+ The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+,
+ 6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore,
+ and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary.
+ Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6frs. From
+ the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Chteau-d'Eau on
+ the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
+ shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
+ landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
+ little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890
+ ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer,
+ separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte.
+ Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft.
+ above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where
+ the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a
+ serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. Apath at the
+ foot leads to an old alum mine.
+
+ The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course
+ of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having
+ crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in
+ the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. charged
+ for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about
+ 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
+ highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
+ great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54m. in
+ circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
+ granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
+ the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6m. N., by the Chemin
+ des Crtes.
+
+ 3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivires, apoor hamlet
+ on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a
+ miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
+ the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at
+ Vassivires, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried
+ between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on
+ the road indicate the resting stations. 2m. E. from Vassivires, or
+ 10 m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928
+ ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full
+ to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep,
+ completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs
+ from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on
+ this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At
+ the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, acircular
+ cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen,
+ supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
+
+ 3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
+ Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_
+ Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
+ neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
+ contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates,
+ one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre
+ of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it
+ is converted into shops and dwellings.
+
+[Headnote: MUROLS.]
+
+ From Besse go 5 m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the
+ highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses
+ beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil,
+ St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_
+ Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle,
+ many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone
+ of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a
+ formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence
+ of the lords of Murols et d'Estaing. From the top of the repaired
+ tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor,
+ Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes,
+ the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore,
+ passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625
+ ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne.
+ A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the
+ lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite
+ mountain.
+
+ The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back
+ is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivires, Besse, and
+ Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
+
+[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLE D'ENFER.]
+
+ A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as
+ well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the
+ pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having
+ reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the
+ road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a
+ few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the
+ inscription: "Petit Chemin du Capucin," which take. Shortly after it
+ divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open
+ space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the
+ left goes to the Valle d'Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the
+ road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which
+ divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du
+ Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore,
+ commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle,
+ like a monk's hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather
+ difficult to ascend.
+
+ To go to the +Valle d'Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the
+ Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Valle Lacour, m. long,
+ near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the
+ opening where those on foot climb over to the Valle d'Enfer; those on
+ horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Valle d'Enfer is an arid
+ narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical
+ dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or
+ return to Mont-Dore, 4 m. N.
+
+
+[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES.]
+
+BOURBOULE.
+
+ 8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
+ the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
+ ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to
+ the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
+ Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
+ especial virtue--the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
+ milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is
+ at Mont-Dore.
+
+ _Hotels._--Around the principal establishment, called the
+ Etablissement des Thermes, are the Grand Hotel; H. Bellon; Univers;
+ Bains; Europe; Globe; trangers; H. de l'Etablissement; Paris;
+ Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc
+ de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; Parc; Beausejour; and also
+ the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.
+
+ At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the Poste;
+ Bourboule; Helder; Louvre; Nice; Ambassadeurs; Continental.
+
+ Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meubles) and villas to
+ let.
+
+ The figure () indicates that the hotel is first-class, with
+ first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in
+ which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of
+ August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room
+ and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1fr. extra.
+ Service, to 1fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From
+ the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to
+ the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should
+ bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.
+
+ The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed
+ upon beforehand it will be much the same.
+
+ The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three
+ bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des
+ Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the
+ side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and
+ Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement
+ Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. Apart
+ of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.
+
+ In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
+ 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to
+ the 30th September, 2 frs.
+
+ In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are fr. less than in the
+ Thermes. In the Mabru they are fr. less than in the Choussy.
+
+ The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
+ in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.
+
+ The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
+ or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including
+ the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays
+ double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1 fr.
+
+
+[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
+
++The Springs.+
+
+ Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
+ right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
+ in the Park. The three most important, the Perrire, the Choussy, and
+ Sdaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru
+ bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap
+ the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92
+ ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground,
+ a temperature of 140 F.
+
+ These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
+ discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are
+ the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81, and of the Puits Central,
+ 104, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two
+ springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64
+ F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others,
+ are drunk with wine at dinner.
+
+
++Their Constituents and Effects.+
+
+ Of the springs, Perrire, Choussy, and Sdaiges, each litre (11/50 of
+ a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly
+ one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride
+ of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
+ arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these
+ waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of
+ the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested
+ development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and
+ other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as
+ enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases
+ of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more
+ especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule
+ claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they
+ arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as
+ the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary
+ consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic
+ bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters.
+
+
+[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+
++Bourboule Excursions.+
+
+ On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that
+ it is 2 m. from the Cascade de la Vernire, 2m. from the Cascade du
+ Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5m. from
+ Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4-1/3 m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4m.
+ from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4 m. from the summit of the Puy
+ Gros, 2m. from the petrifying spring, 3 m. from the village of St.
+ Sauves, and 10-4/5 m. from Latour. The most of these places are
+ between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
+
+ The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially
+ to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid
+ specimens of basaltic columns, 2m. S. by a path following the right
+ or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About m. beyond, the Vendeix
+ path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses
+ the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of
+ junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont
+ Bozat. About 1 m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the
+ Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the
+ Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4m. from Bourboule by this roundabout
+ way, but only 2 m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
+ into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber's shaving basin.
+ A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
+ cascade of La Vernire, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
+ 2 m. from Bourboule.
+
+ On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1m. from Bourboule and
+ 4m. from Mont-Dore, aroad extends 2 m. N. to the summit of the Puy
+ Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.
+
+
+[Headnote: SAINT-NECTAIRE.]
+
++Mont-Dore to Issoire+,
+
+31 m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15 m. E., and Champeix other 8m.
+Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12m. E.The
+Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup
+and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and
+traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at
++Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas+, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_
+Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.
+
+N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large
+bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_
+Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and
+stimulant, temperature between 75 F. and 110 F., and are recommended
+for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, and gout. The
+specialit may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In
+Mont Cornadore are large caves.
+
+ The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen
+ of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a
+ dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6 ft.; and 2 m.
+ distant the cascade of the Granges. 8 m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
+ Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
+ Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be
+ ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by
+ the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with
+ caves, 3m. from Issoire (p. 372).
+
+
++Continuation of Route--Clermont to Brive.+
+
+14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68m.
+N.E. from Brive, is +Eyguirande+, pop. 1150. Junction here with
+loop-line to Largnac, 30m. S.Coach daily to Murat 41m. S., passing
+Mauriac 12m. S. (see Black's _South France_, West Half).
+
+31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is +Meymac+, pop. 3200, on the
+Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications.
+Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9m. N., and close to
+Limoges. (See _South France_, West Half.)
+
+[Headnote: TULLE. BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE.]
+
+16 m. N.E. from Brive, and 105 m. S.W. from Clermont, is +Tulle+, pop.
+15,500, on the Corrze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms
+and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called
+tulle.
+
+122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156m. N. from
+Toulouse, and 45m. E. from Perigueux, is +Brive-la-Gaillarde+, pop.
+12,000, on the Corrze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black's _South
+France_, West Half).
+
+
+ * * * * *
+ * * * *
+ * * * * *
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+ ABRIES 344
+ Acqui 184
+ Agay 147
+ Aiguebelle 289
+ Aigueperse 368
+ Aigues-Mortes 73
+ Aiguilles 344
+ Aime 321
+ Aix-en-Provence 78, 338
+ olive oil 79
+
+ +Aix+-les-Bains 283
+ ---- to Geneva by Annecy 286
+ Alacoque, M. M. 27
+ Alais 375
+ Alan 49
+ Alassio 208
+ Albenga 208
+ Albertville 320
+ ---- to Annecy 320
+ Albissla 210
+ Alesia 19
+
+ Alessandria 280
+ Alise-St. Reine 19
+ Allgre 89
+ Allevard-les-Bains 336
+ Allos 339
+ Alvernia 279
+ Alzon 105
+ Amberieux 281
+ Ambert 91
+ Amplepuis 348
+ Ampuis 81
+ wine 81
+
+ Amyot, Jacques 3
+ Ancy-le-Franc 18
+ Annecy 286
+ Annonay 81
+ Antibes 154, 169
+ Antraigues 94
+ Apricale 201
+ Aps 97
+ Apt 66
+ preserves 66
+ Aramon 99
+ Arenzano 211
+ Ardche, sketch of 45
+ ---- coaches to 45
+ ---- map of 46
+ Ardes 373
+ Arezzo 279
+ Arfeuilles 346
+ Arlanc 90
+
+ Arles 68, 376
+ to Fontvieille 71
+ to Port Bouc 72
+ to Port St. Louis 72
+ to St. Gilles 72
+
+ Arma 207
+ Arsac 86
+ Artemart 282
+ Arvant 373
+ Aspres 48, 345
+ Astet 89
+ Asti 280
+ Aubagne 122
+ Aubenas 93
+ Aups 145, 167
+ Auribeau 156
+ Autun 24
+ Auxerre 14
+ Avallon 16
+ Avenza 222
+
+ +Avignon+ 58
+ Benezet's bridge 63
+ ---- tomb 62
+ Hotels 58
+ Htel de Ville 61
+ J. S. Mill's tomb 63
+ Laura's tomb 62
+ Muse Calvet 61
+ Museum of Natural History 62
+ Notre Dame des Doms 60
+ Popes' palace 58
+ Rocher des Doms 60
+ St. Agricol 61
+ St. Didier 62
+ St. Joseph 62
+ St. Nicolas 63
+ St. Pierre 62
+ to Manosque by Cavaillon 66
+ to Nmes 64
+ to Vaucluse 64
+ to Villeneuve 63
+
+ BAGNOLES-LES-BAINS 375
+ Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99
+ Bains 91
+ Balaruc 76
+ Bandols 123
+ Banges 285
+ Bar 163
+ Barcelonnette 341
+ to Cuneo 341
+ to St. Paul 341
+
+ Bardonnechia 291
+ Barjols 143, 167
+ Barrme 166
+ Baths--Acqui 184
+ ---- Aix-les-Bains 283
+ ---- Aix-en-Provence 78
+ ---- Allevard 336
+ ---- Bagnols 375
+ ---- Balaruc 76
+ ---- Bourboule 383
+ ---- Bourbon-Lancy 358
+ ---- Bourbon l'Archambault 357
+ ---- Challes 284, 288
+ ---- Chteauneuf 369
+ ---- Chtelguyon 369
+ ---- Chateldon 367
+ ---- Cusset 365
+ ---- Foncaude 75
+ ---- Groulx 168
+ ---- La Motte 327
+ ---- Lucca 230
+ ---- Marlioz 284
+ ---- Mont-Dore 378
+ ---- Neyrac 94
+ ---- Pougues-les-Eaux 352
+ ---- Royat 376
+ ---- Sail 348
+ ---- St. Alban 348
+ ---- St. Galmier 348
+ ---- St. Giuliano 227
+ ---- St. Honor 354
+ ---- St. Mart 377
+ ---- St. Nectaire 385
+ ---- Uriage 336
+ ---- Valdieri 181, 182
+ ---- Vals 103
+ ---- Vichy 359
+ ---- Vinadio 183
+
+ Beage, Le 84
+ Beaucaire 67
+ Beauchastel 82
+ Beaufort 46
+ Beaujolais 29
+ Beaulieu 184
+ Beaune 23
+ Beaurires 48
+ Beausset 123
+
+ Bec-de-l'Homme 331
+ Becket, Thomas 11, 15, 17
+ Bedoin 56
+ Belgentier 129
+ Bellentre 321
+ Belleville 29
+ Belvedre 181
+ Berarde 330
+ Berlingots 56
+
+ Bernadette Soubirous 353
+ Berre 77
+ Bersezio 342
+ Besse 344
+ ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 344
+ Besse-en-Chandesse 381
+ Beza, T. 15
+ Billom 350
+ Blaizy-Bas 20
+ Bobbio 306
+ Bogliasco 219
+ Boileau 2
+ Bollne 50
+
+ +Bologna+ 315
+ Accademia 315
+ Ai Servi (church), 318
+ Annunziata 320
+ Biblioteca Communale 318
+ Bolognese school 315
+ Cabs 315
+ Certosa 320
+ Galvani 316
+ Guido's grave 319
+ Madonna di S. Luca 320
+ Mezzofanti 316
+ Pal. Mercanzia 318
+ Pal. Zampieri 318
+ Picture gallery 315
+ S. Bartolommeo 318
+ S. Domenico 319
+ S. G. Maggiore 316
+ S. Petronio 317
+ S. Pietro 319
+ S. Stefano 318
+ S. Vitale 319
+ Torre Asinelli 317
+ Torre Garisenda 317
+ University 316
+ Bondonneau 49
+
+ +Bordighera+ 200
+ Bormes 142
+ Borne 89
+ Bossuet, J. B. 22
+ Bouillabaisse 113
+ Boulerie 147
+ Bourbon-Lancy baths 358
+ Bourbon-l'Archambault baths 357
+
+ +Bourboule+ 383
+ Bourdeaux 47
+ Bourg-Argental 81
+ Bourg-d'Oisans 329
+ ---- to Lac Blanc 329
+ ---- to the Ecrin group 329
+ Bourgoin 322
+ Bourg-St. Andeol 97
+ Bourg-St. Maurice 321
+ Breuil, Le 373
+ Brianon 332
+ ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345
+ ---- to Oulx 333
+ Briare 352
+ Brignoles 142, 167
+ Brillane 339
+ Brioude 374
+ Brive 386
+ Brogny 287
+ Brunoy 2
+ Buffon, Comte de 18
+ Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24
+ Busalla 279
+ Bussoleno 291
+
+ CAGNES 165
+ Callian 162
+ Camaldoli 278
+ Camargue 70, 72
+ Campo-Rosso 201
+
+ +Cannes+ 149
+ Agents 149
+ Adalbert 151, 159
+ Antibes 154
+ Auribeau 156
+ Banks 151
+ Brougham, Lord 151, 155
+ Cabs 151
+ Californie 152
+ Canal 152, 162
+ Cannet 154
+ Castelaras 156
+ Cemetery 152
+ Churches 151
+ Clausonne 154
+ Climate 151
+ Corniche 152
+ Croisette, La 154
+ Croix des Gardes 155
+ Drives 152
+ Estrels 155
+ Hesperide 154
+ Hotels and Pensions 149
+ Iron Mask 157
+ Lerins Islands 156
+ Mont Vinaigre 156
+ Mouans-Sartoux 156
+ Mougins 156
+ Napoule 154
+ N. D. d'Esperance 151
+ Observatories 151, 152
+ Pegomas 156
+ Pottery 153
+ St. Anne 151
+ St. Cassien 155
+ St. Honorat 158
+ St. Marguerite 157
+ Thoule 155
+ Vallauris 153
+
+ Carnoules 142
+ Carpentras 54
+
+ +Carqueyranne+ 141
+ Mont Negre 141
+ Mont Paradis 141
+
+ Carrara 222
+ Casset, Le 332
+ Cassini, G. D. 201
+ Castellane 165
+ Castellaro 206
+ Cavaillon 66
+ Cayres 88
+ Celles-les-Bains 83
+ Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354
+ Certosa 184
+ Cervo 208
+ Cesanne 333
+ Cette 75
+ ---- to Balaruc 76
+ Chablis 14
+ Chabons 323
+ Chagny 24, 355
+ Chaise-Dieu 89
+ Challes 284, 288
+ Chalon-sur-Sane 26
+ Chambertin 23
+ Chambery 287
+ Chambon 380
+ Champeix 385
+ Charenton 2
+ Charmes 82
+ Charmettes, Les 288
+ Chteauneuf (Riom) 369
+ Chteauroux 343
+ Chtelard, Le 285
+ Chateldon 367
+ Chtelguyon 369
+ Chtillon 47
+ Chtillon (Lake Bourget) 282
+ Chtillon-sur-Loing 351
+ Chtillon-sur-Loire 352
+ Chavanay 81
+ Cheilard 83
+ Chenal 341
+ Chiavari 220
+ Chiomonte 291
+ Chorges 342
+ Cirque-d'Annibal 321
+ Citeaux abbey 23
+ Claix 328, 345
+ Clamecy 354, 15
+ Clelles 345
+
+ +Clermont-Ferrand+ 369
+ Academie 371
+ Botanic gardens 371
+ Cathedral 370
+ Coaches 370
+ Hotels 369
+ Notre Dame 371
+ Pascal's house 370
+ Peter the Hermit 371
+ Preserved fruits 370
+ Puy de Dome 372
+ Romagnat 372
+ to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376
+ to Lyons by St. Etienne 349
+
+ Cluny 27
+ Cogoleto 210
+ Cogolin 145
+ Col Abris 307
+ ---- Braus 183
+ ---- Brouis 183
+ ---- Cabres 48
+ ---- Cerise 181
+ ---- Chavade 89
+ ---- Croix 306
+ ---- Finestra 181
+ ---- Fremamorta 181
+ ---- Lautaret 331
+ ---- Longet 341
+ ---- Maddalena 342
+ ---- Maure 339
+ ---- Moulires 181
+ ---- Muselle 330
+ ---- Mulo 342
+ ---- Ribeyret 51
+ ---- Sestrires 307
+ ---- Tenda 183
+ ---- Traversette 308, 344
+ Colla, La 202
+ Colmars 339
+ Collobrires 130
+ Columbus 211
+ Condamine-Chtelard 342
+ Condamine, La 189
+
+ Condrieu 81
+ wine 81
+ Cornigliano 212
+ Corps 334
+ Correggio 313
+ Corsena 230
+ Cosne 352
+ Cote d'Or 22
+ Coupe-d'Aizac 94
+ Courmayeur 322
+ Courpire 91
+ Courty 350
+ Craponne 89
+ Cravant 14, 355
+ Crest 46
+ ---- to Aspres 47
+ Crissolo 308, 344
+ Croisire, La 50
+ Croix Blanche 105
+ Cruseilles 287
+ Cruzy-le-Chatel 18
+ Cuers 130, 142
+ Culinary terms xxiii
+ Culoz 282
+ Cuneo 182, 279, 308
+ ---- to Barcelonnette 341
+ ---- to Nice 182
+ Cusset 365
+
+ DARCEY 19
+ Darsac 89
+ ---- to Chaise-Dieu 89
+ Dauphin, Le 331
+ Decize 25
+ Demonte 342
+ Dent de Nivolet 288
+ Dent-du-Chat 282
+ Diano Marina 208
+ Die 47
+ Dieulefit 47
+ Digne 166
+ Digoin 358
+ Dijon 20
+ Doctors' fees 110
+ Dolce-Acqua 201
+ Domne 336
+ Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357
+ Donzre 50
+ Doussard 287
+ Draguignan 145
+ Duingt 287
+ Duke of Berwick 356
+ Duranus 180
+ Durtol 377
+
+ EAUX CHAUDES 166
+ Embrun 343
+ Enchastraye 330
+ Entraque 181
+ Epinac 24
+ Escragnolles 165
+ Espaly 89
+ Estaque, L' 80
+ Estrels 146, 156
+ Etang 25
+ Eugene Su 286
+ Eyguirande 386
+ Eze 186
+
+ FAYENCE 145
+ Fenestrelle 307
+ Feurs 346
+ Fiesole 276
+ Finalmarina 209
+ Fix-St. Geneys 91
+ Flavigny 19
+
+ +Florence+ 233
+ Academy of Fine Arts 271
+ Alkermes 268
+ Alvernia 279
+ Amerigo Vespucci 275
+ Arcetri 248
+ Arezzo 279
+ Badia, La 263
+ Baptistery 256
+ Bargello 261
+ Bello Sguardo 250
+ Bibbiena 279
+ Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266
+ ---- Nazionale 236
+ Bigallo, Il 257
+ Boboli Gardens 246
+ Brancacci chapel 252
+ Brunelleschi's crucifix 268
+ Cab tariff 234
+ Camaldoli 278
+ Campanile 255
+ Cascine 276
+ Cathedral 252
+ Certosa 250
+ Dante 258
+ David, by Michael Angelo 272
+ Donatello's crucifix 260
+ Duomo 252
+ Galileo 247, 260
+ Galleria Uffizi 237
+ Gallery of mosaics 273
+ Guide books 234
+ Hawkwood, John 255
+ Hospital St. Giovanni 275
+ Hotels and apartments 233
+ House of Amerigo Vespucci 275
+ ---- of Dante 274
+ ---- of Galileo 248
+ ---- of Macchiavelli 247
+ ---- of Michael Angelo 263
+ Ketterick, John 259
+ Loggia Orcagna 235
+ Luca della Robbia ware 263
+ Masaccio 252
+ Money-changers 234
+ Monte Oliveto 251
+ Mortuary chapel 255
+ Mosaic manufacture 273
+ Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267
+ ---- Nat. Hist. 247
+ National Museum 261
+ Niobe 242
+ Ognissanti 275
+ Or St. Michele 257
+ Palaces 273
+ Palazzo Corsini 275
+ ---- Riccardi 275
+ ---- Strozzi 275
+ ---- Torrigiani 276
+ ---- Vecchio 274
+ Park 276
+ Pazzi chapel 260
+ Perazzi chapel 259
+ Piazza S. Annunziata 269
+ ---- S. Croce 258
+ ---- Signoria 235
+ Piazzale Michelangiolo 249
+ Picture gallery of S. Marco 270
+ Pitti gallery 243
+ ---- palace 246
+ Pontassieve 278
+ Porta Romana 248
+ Post office 236
+ Prefettura della Provincia 275
+ Protestant churches 234
+ Raphael 239
+ Refectory of S. Croce 261
+ Restaurants 234
+ Rucellai chapel 268
+ Sagrestia Nuova 265
+ S. Annunziata 268
+ S. Croce 258
+ S. Giovannino 264
+ S. Lorenzo 264
+ S. Marco 270
+ S. Maria del Carmine 252
+ S. Maria del Fiore 252
+ ---- Novella 267
+ S. Michele 257
+ S. Miniato 249
+ S. Spirito 251
+ Sarto, Andrea del 269
+ Savonarola 270
+ Sights 234
+ Spezeria 268
+ Straw-plaiting 277
+ Torre del Gallo 248
+ Tribuna 238
+ ---- di Galileo 247
+ Uffizi gallery 237
+ Vallombrosa 278
+ Venus de Medici 238
+ Views 250
+
+ Foncaude baths 75
+ Fontainebleau 3
+ Fontana 183
+ Fontenay abbey 19
+ Forcalqueiret 129
+ Fos 76
+ Fourchambault 353
+ Freaux, Les 331
+ Frejus 146
+ Freney, Le 331
+ Frontignan 75
+ salt 75
+ wine 75
+
+ GALLINARIA 208
+ Gannat 368
+ Gap 340,
+ ---- to Barcelonnette 340
+ ---- to Grenoble 342
+ Garabit, Pont de 374
+ Gardanne 80, 142, 338
+ ---- to Carnoules 142
+
+ Genoa 212, 279
+ Accademia 216
+ Acquasola 216
+ Albergo dei Poveri 218
+ Cabs 213,
+ Cafs 213,
+ Campo-Santo 218
+ Cathedral 217
+ Corsos 213
+ English church 212
+ Hotels 212
+ Money-changers 213
+ Palazzo Adorno 216
+ ---- Balbi 215
+ ---- Doria 214
+ ---- ---- (Giorgio) 216
+ ---- Ducal 217
+ ---- Durazzo 215
+ ---- Municipicio 216
+ ---- Rosso 216
+ ---- Serra 216
+ ---- Spinola 216
+ Post office 216
+ Royal Palace 214
+ S. Ambrogio 217
+ S. Annunziata 215
+ S. Maria in Carignano 218
+ S. Matteo 217
+ S. Siro 215
+ Shops 212
+ Steamers 213
+ Telegraph office 213
+ Valdensian church 212
+ Via Circonvallazione 213
+ Via Milano 214
+
+ Gerbier-de-Joncs 84
+ Gevrey 23
+ Giandola 183
+ Gien 351
+
+ +Giens+ 140
+ La Madrague 141
+ Le Chateau 141
+ Salt works 141
+ Semaphore 141
+
+ Gires 336
+ Gilly 358
+ Givors-Canal 81, 349
+ Gleyzin glacier 337
+ Golf Jouan 169
+ Goncelin 336
+ Gonfaron 131
+ Gourdon 163
+ Grand Som 324
+ Grande-Chartreuse 323
+ Grande Combe 375
+ Grasse 160
+ Grave, La 331
+
+ +Grenoble+ 324
+ Bastile 325
+ Bayard 325
+ Coaches 325, 327
+ Gloves 327
+ Hotels 324
+ Library 326
+ Picture gallery 326
+ St. Andr 325
+ St. Laurent 327
+ to Barcelonnette 341
+ to Brianon 328
+ to Corps 333
+ to Gap 342
+ to La Motte-les-Bains 327
+ to Sassenage 327
+
+ Groulx 167
+ Grignan 49
+ Grimaud 144
+ Guerigny 354
+ Guillestre 344
+
+ HAUTECOMBE ABBEY 284
+ Hermitage wine 43
+ Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321
+
+ +Hyres+ 133
+ Banks 133
+ Butterflies 139
+ Cabs 134
+ Caterpillars 139
+ Charles of Anjou 136
+ Chteau, Le 136
+ Climate 140
+ Clubs 134
+ Cork trees 139
+ Costebelle 136
+ Drives 134
+ English Pharmacy 133
+ Episcopal Chapel 133
+ Fenouillet, Mont 137
+ Game 138
+ Hermitage 136
+ Hotels 133
+ Jardin d'Acclimatation 136
+ La Plage 140
+ Map 129
+ Massillon 135
+ Napoleon I. 136
+ Oiseaux Monts. 128
+ Olive trees 138
+ Palm sticks 108
+ Palms 136
+ Paradis, Mont 141
+ Pauline, La 142
+ Pipes 139
+ Potence 139
+ Productions 139
+ St. Louis 136
+ St. Paul 135
+ Stage coaches 134
+ Temple Protestant 133
+ Town water 139
+ Trou des Fes 138
+ View from Le Chteau 137
+
+ ILES DE LERINS 157
+ Iles d'Or 131
+ Il Serraglio 230
+
+ Issoire 372,
+ coach to St. Nectaire 385
+
+ Isola Buona 201
+ Istres 76
+ Italian railway terms and time-tables 200, 291
+
+ JAUJAC 95
+ Jausiers 342
+ Javie 339
+ Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22
+ Joigny 14
+ Jouques 79
+ Joyeuse 96
+
+ LA BALME 282
+ La Barben 79
+ La Bastide 375
+ La Begude 93
+ La Bollene 181
+ La Chalp 306
+ La Chambre 289
+ La Charit 352
+ La Ciotat 122
+ La Crau 130
+ La Garde 128, 130
+ La Garde Fraiseinet 144
+ La Madrague 141
+ La Monta 344
+ La Mothe 94
+ La Palisse 346, 368
+ La Pauline 142
+ La Roche 14
+ La Salle 334
+ La Salette 334
+ La Sauvetat 88
+ La Seyne 123
+ La Valette 128
+ La Voulte 82
+
+ Lachamp-Raphael 84
+ Laffrey 333
+ Lagnieu 282
+ Laigueglia 208
+ Lake Allos 339
+ ---- Annecy 286
+ ---- Bourget 282
+ ---- Paladru 323
+ ---- Pavin 381
+ ---- Thau 76
+ Lamartine 27
+ Lambesc 80
+ Langeac 91, 375
+ Langogne 95, 375
+ ---- to Le Puy 88
+ Lans-le-Bourg 290
+ Lantosque 180
+ Laqueuille 377
+ ---- to Mont-Dore 377
+ ---- to Bourboule 377
+ Larche 342
+ Largentire 96
+ ---- to Les Laumes 14
+ Larzac 106
+ Laudun 99
+ Laurent-du-Pont 323
+ Lauzet 331
+ Lauzet, Le 341
+ Lavandou 143
+
+ Le Barroux 57
+ Le Beage 84
+ Le Bouchet 88
+ Le Buis 57
+ Le Creusot 25
+ Le Monastier 85
+ Le Pal 96
+ Le Peage de Roussillon 43
+ Le Pouzin 92
+ Le Puy 86
+ Le Teil 93
+ Le Trayas 149
+
+ Leghorn 226
+ Lemons 191, 194, 201
+ Lerici 221
+ Les Arcs 145
+ Les Baux 67
+ Les Etables 85
+ Les Etages 330
+ Les Laumes 19
+ Les Marches 289, 338
+ Les Piles 51
+ Les Saintes Maries 72
+ Les Salins 141
+
+ Leschaux 287
+ Levant, Ile du 132
+ Levens 180
+ Limone 183
+ L'Isle 64
+ Livet 329
+ Livron 46
+ Loano 209
+ Lorgues 145
+ Lord Clarendon 356
+ Lovagny 286
+ Luc 144
+
+ +Lucca+ 227
+ Cabs 227
+ Cathedral 228
+ Hotels 227
+ Picture gallery 228
+ S. Frediano 229
+ S. Michele 229
+ Luc-en-Diois 48
+
+ Lunel 72
+ wine 73
+ Lurs 339
+ Luserna 305
+ Luzy 25
+
+ +Lyons+ 29
+ Antiquaille Hospital 33
+ Aqueduct 34
+ Boats, Penny 31
+ Bourse 38
+ Cabs 30
+ Cathedral 34
+ Cheese 42
+ Condition des Soies 37
+ Distances 29
+ First sewing-machine 38
+ Flourvire 32
+ History 41
+ Hospice 39
+ Htel de Ville 37
+ ---- Dieu 39
+ Hotels 29
+ Ile Barbe 42
+ Jacquard's loom 38
+ Libraries 37, 38
+ Minerals 37
+ Mont Ceindre 41
+ ---- d'Or 42
+ Muse Archologique 36
+ ---- Guimet 40
+ ---- Lapidaire 35
+ ---- of Silk 38
+ Notre Dame 33
+ Observatoire Gay 33
+ Palais de Justice 35
+ ---- des Beaux Arts 35
+ Park 40
+ Picture gallery 36
+ Place des Terreaux 37
+ Post office 30
+ Prfecture 37
+ Railway station 30
+ St. Bruno 37
+ St. Irne 34
+ St. Martin d'Ainay 39
+ St. Nizier 35
+ St. Paul 33
+ St. Pierre 35
+ St. Polycarpe 37
+ Sights 32
+ Silk museum 38
+ Squares (Places) 32
+ Steamers 31
+ Tte d'Or 40
+ Theatres 31
+ to Nmes 81
+ Trams 31
+ Weavers 40
+ Workhouse (Hospice) 39
+
+ MACON 26
+ wines 24
+ Maisons-Alfort 2
+ Malaucene 57
+ Manosque 66, 166, 168, 339
+ Marcols 84
+ Marlioz 284
+
+ +Marseilles+ 80, 111
+ Anglican chapel 112
+ Arc de Triomphe 116
+ Biblothque 117
+ Bishop Belsunce 116
+ Boats 112
+ Bonneveine 113
+ Bouillabaisse 113
+ Bourse 116
+ Cabs 111
+ Canal 77
+ Cathedral 115
+ Charities 119
+ Chteau Borely 113
+ Commerce 120
+ Consigne 115
+ Corniche 113
+ Custom-house 112
+ cole des Beaux Arts 117
+ History 120
+ Htel de Ville 115
+ Hotels 111
+ If, island of 118
+ Industries 119
+ Joliette 115
+ Lazarus's grave 119
+ Lyce 117
+ Marseillaise, the 120
+ Martigues 118
+ Money-changers 112
+ Muse d'Archologie 113
+ Notre Dame 117
+ Observatory 115
+ Palais de Justice 116
+ ---- Longchamp 114
+ Port 115
+ Prfecture 116
+ Reservoir 115
+ St. Victor 117
+ Sights 112,
+ Steamboats 112
+ Temple 112
+ to Grenoble 338
+ to Menton 112
+ Trams 113,
+ Zoological garden 115
+
+ Martinet 341
+ Mary Magdalene 124, 145
+ Massa 223
+ Maurin 341
+ Mayres 89, 94
+ Meana 291
+ Meije 331
+ Melun 2
+ Menthon 287
+
+ +Menton+ 193
+ Annunciata 196
+ Banks 194
+ Bennet garden 197
+ Berceau 196
+ Cabs 194
+ Cape St. Martin 195
+ Castellar 196
+ Castellon 197
+ Caves 195
+ Churches 194
+ Ciotti 197
+ Climate 199
+ Gorvio 197
+ Gourg-d'Ora 197
+ Grimaldi 197
+ Hanbury grounds 197
+ Hotels 193
+ Mont Baudon 196
+ Monti 198
+ Mortola 197
+ St. Agnese 196
+ ---- (village) 197
+ St. Louis 196
+ to Genoa 199
+
+ Meounes 129
+ Meursault 24
+ Meymac 386
+ Meyrargues 80
+ Meze 76
+ Mezillac 84
+ Mirabeau 338
+ Mirabouc 306
+ Miramas 76
+ ---- to Port Bouc 76
+ Modane 290
+ ---- by road to Susa 290
+
+ +Modena+ 313
+ Campanile 314
+ Cathedral 314
+ Library 314
+ Museo Lapidario 315
+ Picture gallery 314
+ Moirans 324
+
+ +Monaco+ 187
+ Monastier, Le 85
+ Mondov 184, 304
+ Monestier de Clermont 345
+ Montier de Brianon 332
+ Monge, Gaspard 23
+ Monistrol-d'Allier 91
+ Mons cave 163
+ Mont Agel 192
+ ---- Aulas 105
+ ---- Auxois 19
+ ---- Belledonne 336
+ ---- Cenis 290
+ ---- ---- Hospice 290
+ ---- Chenavari 93
+ ---- Coudon 125, 128
+ ---- Faron 127
+ ---- Ferrand 331
+ ---- Genvre 333
+ ---- Gergovia 372
+ ---- Grand Sambiu 79
+ ---- Gravenne 96
+ ---- Meidassa 305, 344
+ ---- Mezenc 85
+ ---- Pelvoux 333, 344, 345
+ ---- Pilat 348
+ ---- Pirchiriano 291
+ ---- Protomagno 278
+ ---- Sancy 381
+ ---- Semnoz 287
+ ---- Taillefer 329
+ ---- Ventoux 56, 57
+ ---- Vestide 96
+ ---- Viso 305, 344
+ Montagnac 88
+ Montallieu 281
+ Montargis 351
+ Montauroux 162
+ Montbard 18
+ Montbrison 349
+ Montchanin 25
+ Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378
+ ---- to Issoire 385
+ ---- to St. Nectaire 385
+ Mont Dauphin 306, 307, 343
+ ---- to Saluzzo 344
+ Monte Carlo 189, 192
+ Monte Grosso 210
+ Montlimart 48
+ Montereau 10
+ Montgeron 2
+ Mont-Majour 71
+ Montmlian 167, 289, 338
+
+ +Montpellier+ 73
+ cole de Mdecine 74
+ Muse Fabre 74
+ to Palavas 75
+ wine 75
+ Montpezat 96
+ Montrieux 129
+ Moret 10
+ Mornas 46
+ Moulins 355
+ ---- Les 190
+ Moustiers Ste. Marie 167
+ Moutiers on Doron 320
+ Mure, La 334, 342
+ Murols 382
+
+ NAPOLEON I. 64
+ Napoule 156
+ Narce 89, 94
+
+ +Nervi+ 219
+ Neussargues 374
+ Nevers 353
+ Neyrac 94
+
+ +Nice+ 169
+ Banks 172
+ Booksellers 172
+ Cabs 173
+ Cafs 172
+ Carabacl 177
+ Caterina Segurmana 176
+ Cathedral 176
+ Chteau, Le 175
+ Churches 173
+ Cimis 177
+ Climate 174
+ Clubs 172
+ Column 177
+ Confectioneries 173
+ Contes 174
+ Crois-de-Marbre 177
+ Diligences 173
+ Drives 178
+ Falicon 180
+ Garibaldi 176
+ Hotels and Pensions 170
+ House agents 172
+ Jardin Public 178
+ Luther 176
+ Massena 177
+ Memorial chapel 176
+ Money-changers 172
+ Mont Chauve 179
+ Monte Carlo 178
+ Museum 178
+ Observatory 180
+ Paganini 176
+ Palais de Lascaris 176
+ Pharmacies 172
+ Post office 172
+ Promenade 175
+ Protestant churches 173
+ Public library 172
+ St. Andr 179
+ St. Augustin 176
+ St. Jean 178
+ St. Pons 179
+ Val Obscur 178
+ Vallon des Fleurs 179
+ Vallons 174
+ Villa Clery 179
+ Villefranche 178, 184
+
+ Nicholas V. 221
+ Nieigles 95
+ Nmes 101, 376
+ ---- to Vigan 105
+ Nolay 24
+ Noli 209
+ Novi 279
+ Nuits 23
+ Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18
+ Nyons 50
+ ---- to Serres 51
+
+ OLBON 83
+ Olliergues 91
+ Ollioules 123
+ Olive tree 138
+ Orange 51
+ ---- Prince of 52
+ Orcival 380
+ Orgon 66
+ Ortolans 56
+ Ospedaletti 201, 202
+ Oulx 291, 333
+ Ours-Mons 88
+
+ PALAVAS 75
+ Paradisino 278
+ Paray-le-Monial 27
+ Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346
+ ---- to Marseilles 1
+ ---- Directions 1
+ ---- to Marseilles by Clermont and Nmes 351
+ ---- to Marseilles by Lyons 1
+ ---- to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281
+ ---- to Turin by Grenoble 322
+
+ Parma 310
+ Parmesan cheese 313
+ Pas-des-Lanciers 80, 88, 376
+ Pegli 211
+ Pelago 278
+ Pelussin 81
+ Perinaldo 201
+ Perosa 307
+ ---- to Cesanne 307
+ ----to Mont-Dauphin 307
+ Pertuis 77, 338
+ Petite Afrique 186
+ Petrarch 65
+ Peyerbelle 89, 95
+ Peyraud 81
+ Peyrolles 79
+ Piacenza 309
+ Pian Fiorenza 308
+ ---- del R 308
+ Pierre-Chatel 334
+ Pierrefeu 130
+ Pietrasanta 223
+ Pigna 201
+ Pinerolo 306
+
+ +Pisa+ 223
+ Baptistery 225
+ Cabs 224
+ Campo Santo 225
+ Cathedral 224
+ Hotels 223
+ Leaning Tower 225
+ Post office 224
+ Santa Maria 226
+ University 226
+
+ Pistoja 231
+ Polignac 89
+ Pomaretto 307
+ Pomponiana 143
+ Pontaix 47
+ Pontassieve 277
+ Pont Avignon 99
+ ---- d'Arc 97
+ ---- de-la-Beaune 95
+ ---- du-Gard 104
+ ---- Ecofier 329
+ ---- Gibaud 377
+ ---- St. Esprit 98
+ Pontcharra 337
+ Pontigny 16
+ Pontius Pilate 43
+ Porquerolles 131
+ Port Bouc 76
+ ---- to Arles 76
+ Port Cros 132
+ ---- Grau du Roi 73
+ ---- Man 132
+ ---- St. Louis 72
+ Porto Maurizio 207
+ ---- Oneglia 208
+ ---- Venere 220
+ Portofino 220
+ Pougues-les-Eaux 352
+ Pouilly-sur-Loire 352
+ Pourcheyrolles 95
+ Pouzin 92
+ Pra 211
+ Pradelles 89, 95
+ Prades (Ardche) 95
+ Prato 232
+ Praz 289
+ Pr-St Didier 321
+ Prices 109
+ Privas 92
+ Puget, Pierre 80
+ Puget-Theniers 182
+ Puligny 24
+ Puy-de-Dome 372
+
+ QUEYRAS 344
+ Quincy abbey 18
+
+ RANDAN 366, 368
+ Rapallo 220
+ Reggio Emilia 313
+ Remoulins 99
+ Resin baths 48, 57
+ Rians 79
+ Riez 166, 168
+ Riom 369
+ Riouperoux 329
+ Rioutort 96
+ Ris 367
+ Rives 323
+
+ +Riviera, the+ 107
+ Climate 108
+ Cost of living 109
+ road to 1
+ Vegetation 108
+
+ Roanne 346, 348
+ Robilante 183
+ Rocavignon 160
+ Roche Cevins 320
+ Rochemaure 92
+ Rocher Blanc 164
+ ---- Noir 165
+ Rognac 77, 376
+ ---- to Aix-en-Provence 77
+ ---- to Roquefavour 77
+ Romaneche 28
+ Roquebillre 181
+ Roquebrune 192
+ Roquefavour aqueduct 77
+ Roquemaure 99
+ Roquotaillado tunnel 162
+ Rosans 51
+ Roumoulles 168
+ Rousseau, J. J. 287, 288
+ Rouvray 16
+ Royat 376
+ Ruoms 96
+ Ruota 201
+
+ SAILLANS 47
+ Sail-les-Bains 348
+ Saincaize 355
+ St. Agnan 358
+ St. Agnes 131
+ St. Alban 348
+ St. Ambroix 96
+ St. Andr-le-Gaz 322
+ ---- to Chambery 322
+ St. Auban 166, 339
+ St. Baume (Agay) 147
+ ---- (Bouches du Rhne) 144
+ St. Bernard 27, 287
+ St. Cannat 79
+ St. Cesaire 162
+ St. Chamas 76, 376
+ St. Christophe 330
+ St. Cyre 123
+ St. Didier 57
+ St. Edmund 17
+ St. Etienne 346, 349
+ manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347
+ St. Eulalie 96
+ St. Florentin 16
+ ---- to Chablis 16
+ St. Galmier 346, 348
+ St. Georges-d'Aurac 91, 374
+ St. Germain 321
+ St. Germain-au-Mont d'Or 29
+ St. Germain-des-Fosss 358
+ St. Gilles 72
+ St. Honorat 158
+ St. Honor baths 354
+ St. Honor-les-Bains 25, 354
+ St. Jean 185
+ St. Jean du Bruel 106
+ St. Julien-du-Sault 13
+ St. Louis (king) 73
+ St. Marcel caves 98
+ St. Marcellin 324
+ ---- to Pont-en-Royan 324
+ St. Marguerite 157
+ St. Mart 377
+ St. Martin 98
+ St. Martin-Lantosque 181
+ St. Maurice 2, 50
+ St. Maximin 143
+ St. May 51
+ St. Menet 122
+ St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289
+ St. Nazaire 123
+ St. Nectaire 385
+ St. Pardoux 357
+ St. Paul-Trois-Chteau 50
+ St. Pray 82
+ wine 82
+ St. Pre 15
+ St. Pierre-d'Albigny 289
+ ---- to Annecy 289
+ ---- to Courmayeur 320
+ St. Pierre-d'Argenson 48
+ St. Pierreville 83
+ St. Pilon 144
+ St. Pons 341
+ St. Priest 322
+ St. Privat 91
+ St. Rambert-d'Albon 43
+ +St. Raphael+ 147
+ St. Remi-en-Rollat 368
+ St. Remy 67
+ St. Sauveur 83, 182
+ St. Seine 19
+ St. Thom 97
+ St. Tropez 145
+ St. Vallier 43, 165
+ St. Yorre 366
+
+ Salon 66
+ Saluzzo 307, 344
+ ---- to Cuneo 307
+ ---- to Mont Dauphin 308
+ ---- to Paesana 308
+ ---- to Sampeyre 308, 344
+ Sampierdarena 212
+ San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291
+ San Chiaffredo 308
+ San Dalmazzo 308
+ San Giuliano 227
+
+ +San Remo+ 203
+ Cabs 203
+ Ceriana 204
+ Climate 204
+ Hotels 203
+ Madonna 205
+ Monte Bignone 205
+ Poggia 204
+ St. Romolo 205
+ ---- to Taggia 207
+
+ San Stefano 207
+ San Terenzo 221
+ Sancerre 352
+
+ +Santa Margherita+ 220
+ Saou 46
+ Sarzana 221
+ Sassenage 327
+ Sauclires 105
+ Saugues 91
+ Saulieu 16
+ Saut-du-Loup 373
+ Savigny 24
+ Savines 343
+ Savona 209
+
+ Sea bathing 110
+ Schilienne 329
+ Seez 321
+ Seine, source of 19
+ Semur 16
+ Senez 166
+ Sens 10
+ Sept Laux 337
+ Sermizelles 15
+ Serres 51, 340
+ Serrires 81
+ Sestri Levante 220
+ ---- Ponente 212
+ Settignano 277
+ Seyne-les-Alpes 339
+
+ Shelley 221, 223
+ Sisteron 339
+ Six-Fours 123
+ Sollis-Pont 129, 142
+ Sollis-Ville 129, 142
+ Sorgues 54
+ Sospello 182
+ Source of the Loire 84
+ Souvigny 356
+ Spezia 220
+ Steam trams 304
+ Sue du Pal 96
+ Susa 291
+ Suze-le-Rousse 50
+
+ TAGGIA 206, 207
+ Tain 43
+ Talloires 286
+ Tanlay 17
+ Tarascon 66, 376
+ Martha's grave 67
+ Taulignan 49
+ Tavernettes, Les 290
+ Teil 93
+ Tenay 282
+ Tenda 183
+ Termignon 290
+
+ Theoule 155
+ Thezirs 99
+ Thiers 367, 350
+ Thomery 10
+ Thueyts 94
+ Thuile 321
+ Tonnerre 17
+ Torre-Pllice 305
+ ---- to Mont Dauphin 306
+
+ +Toulon+ 124
+ Arsenal 125
+ Bagne 125
+ Balaguier 127
+ Belle-Poule 124
+ Cap Brun 128
+ Cathedral 126
+ Dardenne 128
+ Diligences 129
+ Hotels 124
+ Le Pradet 128
+ Le Tamaris 127
+ Mont Faron 127
+ Omnibuses 124, 128
+ Port, the 124
+ Puget's house 126
+ Rue Lafayette 126
+ St. Franois de Paule 126
+ St. Mandrier 127
+ St. Marguerite 128
+ Smith, Sir Sydney 126
+ Temple Protestant 124
+ Town Hall 126
+ Tour-du-Pin 322
+ Tournon 82
+ Tournus 26
+ Trayas, Le 148
+ Trets 144
+ Trvoux 29
+ Trinit-Victor 182
+ Troy weight 13
+ Troyes 11
+ Truffles 55
+ Tulle 386
+ Turbie, La 191, 192
+
+ +Turin+ 292
+ Accademia Albertina 300
+ Armoury 297
+ Biblioteca del R 297
+ Booksellers 293
+ Cabs 292
+ Cafs 293
+ Castello, the 299
+ Cathedral 298
+ Cavour house 294
+ ---- monument 301
+ Cemetery 302
+ Gran Madre di Dio 300
+ Gressini 303
+ Hotels 292
+ King's palace 298
+ La Consolata 301
+ Medagliere del R 297
+ Money-changers 293
+ Monuments 293, 301
+ Museo Civico 299
+ Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294
+ Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297
+ Palazzo Carignano 297
+ ---- dell' Accademia delle Scienze 294
+ ---- di Citta 301
+ Piazza Carlo Felice 293
+ ---- dello Statuto 293
+ ---- San Carlo 293
+ ---- Vitt. Emanuele 300
+ Post and telegraph offices 293
+ Railway stations 293
+ Superga, La 302
+ Teatro Regio 298
+ Theatres 293
+ to Cuneo 153
+ to Florence 309
+ to Genoa 279
+ to Savona 183
+ Trams 292
+ University 300
+ Via di Po 300
+ Wines 303
+
+ UBAYE 341
+ Uriage baths 336
+ Usclades 96
+ Uzs 99
+
+ VAISON 53
+ Val Louise 333, 345
+ Valbonne 98
+ Valdieri 181, 182
+ Valence 44
+ ---- coaches from 45
+ Vallauris 154
+ Valleraugue 105
+ Vallombrosa 278
+ Vallon 97
+ Valras 49
+ Vals 93
+ Var 169
+ Varazze 210
+ Varennes 26
+ Varzy 354
+ Vassivires 381
+ Vaucluse 64
+ Vaugris 43
+ Velars 20
+ Venanson 181
+ Vence 163
+ Vence-Cagnes 169
+ Vencigliato 277
+ Venosc 330
+
+ Ventimiglia 200
+ Vernet 91
+ ---- (Digne) 339
+ Verrey 19
+ Vesseaux 93
+ Veynes 340
+ Vezelay 15
+ Viareggio 223
+
+ +Vichy+ 359
+ Vienne 42
+ Vif 345
+ Vigan 105
+ ---- to Millau 105
+ Villa Pallavicini 211
+ Villard-d'Arne 331
+ Villefort 375
+ ---- to Bagnol-les-Bains 375
+ Villefranche 184
+ Villefranche-sur-Sane 29
+ Villeperdrix 51
+ Ville-la-Vieille 344
+ Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63
+ Hospital 63
+ Marchioness de Ganges 63
+ Villeneuve-St. George 2
+ Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13
+ Vinadio 183, 342
+ Virieu 322
+ Virieu-le-Grand 282
+ Viviers 97
+ Vizille 328, 333, 345
+ Voghera 309
+ Voiron 323
+ coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323
+ Voltri 211
+ Volvic 369, 377
+ Volx 339
+ Voreppe 324
+ coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324
+ Vougeot 23
+ Voulte, La 82
+ Voute-Chilhac 91
+
+ WALDENSES, OR VAUDOIS 305
+ Waldensian valleys 304
+ Warrens, Mme. 286, 288
+ Wellington 2
+
+THE END.
+
+_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+ * * * *
+ * * * * *
+
+Errors and Inconsistencies
+
+ LIST OF MAPS:
+ +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 [text has "191"]
+
+A few points are missing "from" or "to" mileages. They have not been
+individually noted. Two occurrences of "Coreggio" for "Correggio" have
+been silently corrected.
+
+Map references are inconsistent. The "Rhne and Savoy" map was printed
+twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is given
+as "page 107"; in the text it is randomly cited as "page 27" and "page
+26". "Map. p. 199" and "p. 200" both refer to the Italian Riviera map;
+it is also cited twice as "p. 220". The map of Hyres (p. 129) is twice
+cited as "p.177".
+
+ Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, [_elsewhere "Mdicis"_]
+ Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+),
+ [_closing parenthesis missing_]
+ H. Rigaud, 1552-1745
+ [_text unchanged: Hyacinthe Rigaud 1659-1743_]
+ 23m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die
+ [_text has "23m. L."_]
+ [Pisa] in the Lung' Arno Regio [_text has "Lung 'Arno"_]
+ [headnote] ... S. FREDIANO [_text has "S. FREDIANA"_]
+ Evi mori il 6 Giugno 1861." [_close quote missing_]
+ and for description, Black's _France_, North half).
+ [_closing parenthesis missing_]
+
+ +Avignon to Nmes+ ...
+ [_text has 110 for 101 and 114 for 104_]
+ [Florence]
+ ... in the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. [_text has 166 for 266_]
+ From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line
+ [_text has 246 for 346_]
+
+ INDEX
+ _Inconsistencies between Index and body text were changed when one
+ form was clearly wrong; others are simply noted. Page references that
+ were wrong by only one page were disregarded._
+
+ Avignon: St Didier [_spelled "Dedier" in body text_]
+ Bardonnecchia [_text has "Bardonnechia"_]
+ Estrels [_spelled "Estrel" in body text_]
+ Florence: S. Maria del Fiore [_text has "del Fiori"_]
+ Hyeres: Oiseaux Monts 138 [_text has 128_]
+ Menton: Annunciata [_spelled "Annonciade" in body text_]
+ --: Gorvio [_spelled "Gorbio" in body text_]
+ --: Castellon 199 [_text has 197_]
+ Rocher Blanc [_spelled "Roche-Blanche" in body text_]
+ San Remo: Poggio [_text has "Poggia"_]
+ St Michael [_spelled "Michel" in body text_]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South of France--East Half, by
+Charles Bertram Black
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>The South of France&mdash;East Half</title>
+<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+
+<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The South of France--East Half, by Charles Bertram Black
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The South of France--East Half
+
+Author: Charles Bertram Black
+
+Release Date: March 9, 2008 [EBook #24787]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+
+<p>This e-text is divided into three segments, following the book’s
+divisions, with breaks at pg. 106/107 and 280/281. The third section
+includes the General Index. Except in the Lists of Itineraries and Maps,
+and in this introductory section, all links are visually coded. Visual
+details may be overridden by your browser settings, but the links will
+still work.</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#map_flyleaf">anywhere in your current file</a>
+(unmarked)<br>
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html">Pages 1&ndash;106</a>
+(paris.html: <b>boldface</b>)<br>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Pages 107&ndash;280</a>
+(riviera.html: <i>italicized</i>)<br>
+<a class = "turin" href = "turin.html">Pages 281&ndash;end</a>
+(turin.html: <u>underlined</u>)</p>
+
+<p>The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in
+the text, though not in the introductory section:</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+“Those with the figure <sup>1</sup> are first-class houses, with
+<sup>2</sup> second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are
+especially good of their class.”</p>
+
+<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
+text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
+popups</ins>. Missing “from” or “to” mileage numbers have not been
+individually noted.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "#preface">Preface</a><br>
+<a href = "#contents">Itineraries</a><br>
+<a href = "#maps">List of Maps</a><br>
+<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a>
+and
+<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<!-- png 001 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<a name = "map_flyleaf" id = "map_flyleaf"
+href = "images/map_flyleaf.png" target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map_flyleaf_thumb.png" width = "459" height = "366"
+alt = "map of France"></a>
+</p>
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<!-- png 002 -->
+<h1>SOUTH OF FRANCE</h1>
+
+<h2 class = "sans">EAST HALF</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<!-- png 003 -->
+<h3>GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class = "deephang">
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH</span>, with
+Maps and Plan of <span class = "smallcaps">Bath</span>.&nbsp;1s.</p>
+
+<p>TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of <span class =
+"smallcaps">JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK</span>. Illustrated with
+6 Maps and Plan of the Town of <span class = "smallcaps">Saint
+Helier</span>. Second edition.&nbsp;1s.</p>
+
+<p>CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.</p>
+
+<p>BELGIUM, including <span class = "smallcaps">Rotterdam, Flushing,
+Middelburg, Schiedam</span> and <span class =
+"smallcaps">Luxembourg</span>. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps.
+2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Mineral Waters of Contrexéville, Vittel, Martigny,
+Plombières, Luxeuil, Aix-la-chapelle</span>, etc. Illustrated with 5
+Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>TOURAINE, NORMANDY AND BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
+Plans. Eighth edition.&nbsp;5s.</p>
+
+<p class = "inline">
+The above two contain the <span class = "smallcaps">North Half</span> of
+France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of
+Biscay to the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from <span class =
+"smallcaps">Marseilles</span> to <span class =
+"smallcaps">Leghorn</span>, including <span class = "smallcaps">Lucca,
+Pisa</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Florence</span>. Illustrated
+with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>FRANCE&mdash;<span class = "smallcaps">South-East
+Half</span>&mdash;including the whole of the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Valley of the Rhône</span> in France, with the adjacent
+Departments; the <span class = "smallcaps">Valley of the Upper
+Loire</span>, with the adjacent Departments; the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Riviera</span>; the <span class = "smallcaps">Passes</span>
+between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of <span class =
+"smallcaps">Turin, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Leghorn</span>
+and <span class = "smallcaps">Pisa</span>. Illustrated with numerous
+Maps and Plans. Fourth edition.&nbsp;5s.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div deephang -->
+
+<hr class = "micro">
+
+<h5 class = "boldf">From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.</h5>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+“<i>C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
+character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
+acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which
+only a man of leisure, a&nbsp;lover of travel, and an intelligent
+observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’
+the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
+of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
+mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
+apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer.</i>”</p>
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<!-- png 004 -->
+<h1 class = "six">THE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "one extended">SOUTH OF FRANCE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">EAST HALF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">INCLUDING THE VALLEYS OF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "three boldf">THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five smallcaps">the BATHS of</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "three">VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">THE WHOLE OF THE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">WITH THE INLAND TOWNS OF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five boldf">TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">AND</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five fancy">Illustrated with Maps and Plans</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven sans">FOURTH EDITION</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "six">C. B. BLACK</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five">EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK<br>
+1885</h1>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class = "mid">
+
+<!-- png 005 -->
+<h6><i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. &amp; R. Clark</span>,
+Edinburgh.</i></h6>
+
+<hr class = "mid">
+
+<div class = "page preface">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">v</span>
+<a name = "pagev" id = "pagev"> </a>
+<!-- png 006 -->
+<h3><a name = "preface" id = "preface">PREFACE.</a></h3>
+
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">This</span> Guide-book consists of
+<i>Routes</i> which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt
+these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the
+Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which
+the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from
+the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is
+printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns
+on the main lines.</p>
+
+<p>Each Route has the <i>Map</i> indicated on which it is to be found.
+By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact
+situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those
+given.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Arrangement</i> of the Routes is such that they may be taken
+either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the
+commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does
+equally well for Marseilles to Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Distance</i> of towns from the place of starting to the
+terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side
+of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route
+from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either
+side from each other.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Description</i> of towns the places of interest have been
+taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all
+that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession.
+Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against
+omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be
+visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all
+the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 <span
+class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> All the
+<span class = "pagenum">vi</span>
+<a name = "pagevi" id = "pagevi"> </a>
+<!-- png 007 -->
+Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays.
+When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment
+of a franc.</p>
+
+<p>In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For
+the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
+Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”</p>
+
+<p>Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
+Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
+understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
+safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
+sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
+with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
+influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
+prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
+doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
+sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
+walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
+which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
+exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
+Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
+indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
+railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I&nbsp;would
+strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
+health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
+to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
+situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
+mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
+climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
+of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
+his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
+requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
+to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
+will demand
+<span class = "pagenum">vii</span>
+<a name = "pagevii" id = "pagevii"> </a>
+<!-- png 008 -->
+even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to
+all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be
+enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate,
+a&nbsp;disease of long standing.</p>
+
+<p>“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
+strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
+witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
+deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
+surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
+which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
+left their own country&mdash;the recovery of their health. This appeared
+to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.</p>
+
+<p>“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
+living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
+exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
+‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
+late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
+promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
+counteracted by the operation of these causes.” &mdash;<i>Sir James
+Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate.</i></p>
+
+<h6 class = "sans">SEE <a href = "paris.html#map27">MAP PAGE 27</a>, AND
+<a href = "#map_flyleaf">MAP ON FLY-LEAF</a>.</h6>
+
+<p>Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
+at some of the baths, such as <a href = "turin.html#page359">Vichy</a>
+(p.&nbsp;359), <a href = "paris.html#page93">Vals</a> (p.&nbsp;93),
+<a href = "turin.html#page378">Mont-Dore</a> (p.&nbsp;378), <a href =
+"turin.html#page383">Bourboule</a> (p.&nbsp;383), <a href =
+"turin.html#page283">Aix-les-Bains</a> (p.&nbsp;283), <a href =
+"turin.html#page357">Bourbon-l’Archambault</a> (p.&nbsp;357), or <a href
+= "turin.html#page358">Bourbon-Lancy</a> (p.&nbsp;358). If at the
+eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
+Savona (pp. <a href = "riviera.html#page209">209</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page183">183</a>), or from Genoa (pp. <a href =
+"riviera.html#page212">212</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page279">279</a>) to <a href =
+"turin.html#page292">Turin</a> (p.&nbsp;292). From Turin a short branch
+line extends to <a href = "turin.html#page305">Torre-Pèllice</a>
+(p.&nbsp;305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
+valleys.</p>
+
+<p>If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
+a&nbsp;halt may be made for the night at <a href =
+"turin.html#page290">Modane</a> (p.&nbsp;290); where, however, on
+account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp
+and bracing.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">viii</span>
+<a name = "pageviii" id = "pageviii"> </a>
+<!-- png 009 -->
+
+<p>From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
+baths is by the valley of the Rhône (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>), in which there are many places of great interest, such
+as <a href = "paris.html#page68">Arles</a> (p.&nbsp;68), <a href =
+"paris.html#page58">Avignon</a> (p.&nbsp;58), <a href =
+"paris.html#page51">Orange</a> (p.&nbsp;51), and <a href =
+"paris.html#page29">Lyons</a> (p.&nbsp;29). From Lyons take the western
+branch by <a href = "turin.html#page349">Montbrison</a> (p.&nbsp;349)
+for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern
+by <a href = "turin.html#page281">Ambérieux</a> (p.&nbsp;281) and
+<a href = "turin.html#page282">Culoz</a> (p.&nbsp;282). From Avignon,
+<a href = "paris.html#page54">Carpentras</a> (p.&nbsp;54), Pont-St. <a href
+= "paris.html#page98">Esprit</a> (p.&nbsp;98), <a href =
+"paris.html#page48">Montélimart</a> (p.&nbsp;48), La <a href =
+"paris.html#page82">Voulte</a> (p.&nbsp;82), <a href =
+"paris.html#page46">Crest</a> (p.&nbsp;46) and <a href =
+"turin.html#page324">Grenoble</a> (p.&nbsp;324), interesting and
+picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont <a href =
+"paris.html#page56">Ventoux</a> (p.&nbsp;56) is visited. From La Voulte,
+<a href = "paris.html#page45">Ardechè</a> (p.&nbsp;45) is entered. From
+Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres
+(pp. <a href = "paris.html#page47">47</a> and <a href =
+"turin.html#page345">345</a>). From Grenoble the roads and railways
+diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the
+mountain passes between France and Italy.</p>
+
+<p class = "space">
+None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
+travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
+They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great
+use.</p>
+
+<p class = "space">
+The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
+cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
+including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
+the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9&nbsp;frs. per day. Meat
+breakfast, 2 to 3&nbsp;frs.; dinner, 3 to 4&nbsp;frs.; service, ½ fr.;
+“café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the
+hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most
+cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he
+expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of
+bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to
+2&nbsp;frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage
+he expects a gratuity.</p>
+
+<p>Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
+stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
+should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
+2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary
+Information.”</p>
+
+<p class = "right">C. B. B.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div preface -->
+
+
+<div class = "page prelim">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">ix</span>
+<a name = "pageix" id = "pageix"> </a>
+<!-- png 010 -->
+<h3><a name = "prelim" id = "prelim">PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.</a></h3>
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">
+THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE<br>
+OF THE CHANNEL.</h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">The</span> six principal ports on the
+French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris
+are:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+Dieppe&mdash;distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100
+m.; Rouen, 85&nbsp;m.; Gaillon, 58&nbsp;m.; Mantes Junction, 36&nbsp;m.;
+and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins
+de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st class,
+25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris <i>via</i> Newhaven and Dieppe (240
+miles):&mdash;tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and
+London Bridge Station. Fare&mdash;1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl.
+16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey,
+16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest,
+Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent,
+M.&nbsp;Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A.&nbsp;Collin et C<sup>ie</sup>,
+20 Boulevard Saint Denis.</p>
+
+<p>From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,
+Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105
+miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
+station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.</p>
+
+<p>From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
+Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40
+minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at
+the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains
+by this line.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+BOULOGNE&mdash;distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
+Abbeville, 109&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.; Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and
+Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du
+Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris, <i>via</i>, Folkestone and Boulogne (255
+miles):&mdash;tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and
+second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40
+minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne&mdash;1st class, 56s.;
+2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in
+Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">x</span>
+<a name = "pagex" id = "pagex"> </a>
+<!-- png 011 -->
+
+<p class = "space">
+CALAIS&mdash;185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158&nbsp;m.; Montreuil,
+134 m.; Abbeville, 109&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.; Clermont,
+41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of
+the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½
+hours. Fares&mdash;1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris, <i>via</i> Dover and Calais (mail route, distance
+283 miles);&mdash;departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
+class, express. Fares&mdash;60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to
+Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and
+examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply
+at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+CALAIS&mdash;204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177&nbsp;m.;
+Hazebrouck, 165&nbsp;m.; Arras, 119&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.;
+Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. Arrives at the station, No.
+18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares&mdash;1st class, 36
+frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d<ins class = "correction" title =
+"superfluous . omitted"> </ins>cl. 20 frs. 10 c.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+DUNKERQUE&mdash;190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
+165&nbsp;m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119&nbsp;m.;
+Amiens, 81&nbsp;m.; Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. Arrives
+at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c.</p>
+
+<p>England and Channel, <i>via</i> Thames and Dunkirk
+(screw):&mdash;tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from
+Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+LE HAVRE&mdash;142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138&nbsp;m.;
+Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123&nbsp;m.; Yvetot,
+111&nbsp;m.; Rouen, 87&nbsp;m.; Gaillon, 58&nbsp;m.; Mantes Junction,
+36&nbsp;m.; and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe
+and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124
+Rue St. Lazare. Fares&mdash;1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5
+c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly
+3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.</p>
+
+<p>London and Channel, <i>via</i> Southampton and Le
+Havre:&mdash;Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton
+11.45 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> Sea journey, 80&nbsp;m.;
+time, 8 hours.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+CHERBOURG&mdash;231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184&nbsp;m.; Bayeux, 167
+m.; Caen, 149&nbsp;m.; Mezidon Junction, 134&nbsp;m.; Lisieux,
+119&nbsp;m.; Serquigny Junction, 93&nbsp;m.; Evreux, 67&nbsp;m.; Mantes
+Junction, 36&nbsp;m.; and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Time by
+express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours.</p>
+
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.</h4>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but
+the time is more accurately kept.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
+luggage free.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xi</span>
+<a name = "pagexi" id = "pagexi"> </a>
+<!-- png 012 -->
+<h5 class = "ital">Railway Time-Tables.</h5>
+
+<p>Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
+official time-tables are those published by Chaix and C<sup>ie</sup>,
+and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications
+there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
+“Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the French
+railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with
+a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix
+Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at
+every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
+time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
+map.</p>
+
+<p>The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the
+“Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à
+la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the “Chemins
+de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their
+stations. Price 40 c. Size 18<sup>me</sup>. With good index.</p>
+
+<p>For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous
+les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
+Size 18<sup>me</sup>. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of
+Belgium.</p>
+
+<p>For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate
+d’Italia.” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours.
+Price 1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p>In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the
+stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of
+which 8 make 5&nbsp;miles. <i>Lleg.</i> or <i>Llegada</i> means
+“arrival”; <i>Salida</i>, “departure.”</p>
+
+<p>In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,
+Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
+price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">In the Railway Station.</h5>
+
+<p>Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the
+index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain
+the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
+refreshment rooms (marked&nbsp;B), and the time the train halts at each
+on its way.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people
+before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold.
+Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to
+the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your
+ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also
+“bulletins.”</p>
+
+<p>After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a
+luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office,
+where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10&nbsp;c. or 2 sous.
+Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column
+headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your articles
+has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures
+3,&nbsp;5,
+<span class = "pagenum">xii</span>
+<a name = "pagexii" id = "pagexii"> </a>
+<!-- png 013 -->
+and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember,
+when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the
+whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be
+treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be
+overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party
+on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their
+carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster
+(chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the
+train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must
+be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être
+visé).</p>
+
+<p>The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find
+it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,
+having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the
+porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage
+ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">On the Railway.</h5>
+
+<p>In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway
+map, and note the junctions; for at many of these&mdash;such as Amiens,
+Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.&mdash;the passengers are frequently
+discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await
+other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the
+names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,
+otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our
+railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction
+required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du
+Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with
+confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we
+must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found
+very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference.</p>
+
+<p><i>Buffet</i> means “refreshment-room”; and <i>Salle d’Attente</i>,
+“waiting-room.”</p>
+
+<p>There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for
+ladies.</p>
+
+<p>Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">Railway Omnibuses.</h5>
+
+<p>At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of
+omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by
+the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private
+Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town
+for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus
+be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his
+destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or
+hotels whose name or names it bears.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div prelim -->
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xiii</span>
+<a name = "pagexiii" id = "pagexiii"> </a>
+<!-- png 014 -->
+
+<h3><a name = "contents" id = "contents">CONTENTS.</a></h3>
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">
+RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the<br>
+SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN<br>
+PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">For</span> the whole of the south-east of
+France use the time-tables of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à
+la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use
+the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1&nbsp;fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides
+the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams,
+which traverse the country in all directions.</p>
+
+<p>In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern
+Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and
+Dover Railway,&nbsp;3d.</p>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MENTON</b> by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons,
+Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes,
+Nice and Monaco (see <a href = "#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey
+into two parts&mdash;Paris to Marseilles (<a href =
+"paris.html#page1">p.&nbsp;1</a>), and Marseilles to Menton (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page122">p.&nbsp;122</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MARSEILLES</b><span class = "page"><a href =
+"paris.html#page1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most
+interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which
+the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good
+resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles
+should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
+from this great central railway are</p>
+
+<p><b>La Roche to Les Laumes</b> by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,
+Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay,
+containing a grand and vast church<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">.&nbsp;</ins>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page14">14</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xiv</span>
+<a name = "pagexiv" id = "pagexiv"> </a>
+<!-- png 015 -->
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (<a href =
+"paris.html#page14">p.&nbsp;14</a>), with its famous wines, passing
+through Pontigny (<a href = "paris.html#page16">p.&nbsp;16</a>), where
+Thomas à Becket resided.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Verrey (<a href = "paris.html#page19">p. 19</a>) is a good station to
+alight at, to visit the source of the Seine.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From <b>Dijon</b> (<a href = "paris.html#page20">p. 20</a>) southwards
+to Chagny (p<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">. </ins>24)
+are the famous Burgundy vineyards.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Chagny to Nevers</b> by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (<a href
+= "paris.html#page24">p.&nbsp;24</a>) is one of the most ancient cities
+in France. At Creusot (<a href = "paris.html#page25">p.&nbsp;25</a>) are
+very large ironworks.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Macon to Paray-le-Monial</b> by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (<a href =
+"paris.html#page27">p.&nbsp;27</a>) a&nbsp;nun called Alacoque is said
+to have had several interviews with J.&nbsp;C.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Lyons</b> (<a href = "paris.html#page29">p. 29</a>), though a
+splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an
+important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is
+Aix-les-Bains (<a href = "turin.html#page283">p.&nbsp;283</a>). 76 miles
+S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (<a href =
+"turin.html#page324">p.&nbsp;324</a>). Voiron is the station for the
+Grande Chartreuse (<a href = "turin.html#page323">p.&nbsp;323</a>). From
+the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (<a href =
+"turin.html#page349">p.&nbsp;349</a>), is Clermont-Ferrand (<a href =
+"turin.html#page369">p.&nbsp;369</a>). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (<a
+href = "turin.html#page346">p.&nbsp;346</a>) is Le Puy (<a href =
+"paris.html#page86">p.&nbsp;86</a>). The rail from Lyons along the E.
+side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (<a href =
+"paris.html#page58">p.&nbsp;58</a>) and Arles (<a href =
+"paris.html#page68">p.&nbsp;68</a>); and on the W. side to Nîmes (<a
+href = "paris.html#page101">p.&nbsp;101</a>). See <a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>.</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to Grenoble</span>, 62 miles N.E.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page44">44</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to Ardèche</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page45">45</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Crest to Montelimart</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Crest to Dieulefit</b> by Saou and Bourdeaux
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated
+from Dieulefit by a high mountain.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crest to Aspres</b>, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the
+whole of the valley of the river Drôme (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page47">47</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Montelimart to Grignan</span>, where Madame
+Sévigné died
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page49">49</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>La Croisière to Nyons</b>, 29½ miles E. (<a href =
+"paris.html#page50">p.&nbsp;50</a>). The climate of Nyons is mild and
+well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another
+coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (<a href =
+"paris.html#page51">p.&nbsp;51</a>) on the railway between Marseilles
+and Grenoble (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xv</span>
+<a name = "pagexv" id = "pagexv"> </a>
+<!-- png 016 -->
+
+<p><b>Sorgues to Carpentras</b>, 10½ m. east
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page54">54</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of
+places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (<a href =
+"paris.html#page56">p.&nbsp;56</a>) and Vaison (<a href =
+"paris.html#page53">p.&nbsp;53</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Avignon to Nîmes</b> by the famous Roman aqueduct called the
+Pont-du-Gard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse</span>,
+where Petrarch lived for some time
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to Manosque</span> by Apt (<a href
+= "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to Miramas</span> by Cavaillon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page67">67</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Fontvieille</span> by Mont-Majour.
+Arles has magnificent Roman remains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page71">71</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Port St. Louis</span> at the mouth
+of the Rhône
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Port-Bouc</span>, across the
+Camargue, by the canal steamboat
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page76">76</a> and <a href =
+"paris.html#page72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Aigues-Mortes</span> by St. Gilles
+and Lunel
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lunel to Montpellier</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page73">73</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour</b>, which brings water to
+Marseilles from the Durance
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page77">77</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.</b> Aix has communication
+by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page78">78</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône</b> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Peyraud</span> by rail to Annonay, and
+thence by coach to St. Etienne
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>La Voulte to Le Cheilard</b>, the chief diligence centre in the
+department of Ardèche (<a href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>The road to the source of the Loire (<a href =
+"paris.html#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage</span> (<a href
+= "paris.html#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Béage to Le Puy</span> by Le Monastier
+(<a href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page85">85</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to Langogne</span> by Pradelles (<a
+href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page88">88</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to Langeac</span> by St. Georges (<a
+href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xvi</span>
+<a name = "pagexvi" id = "pagexvi"> </a>
+<!-- png 017 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Darsac to Chaise-Dieu</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map46">map, p. 46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Chaise-Dieu to Thiers</span> by Arlanc and
+Ambert (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page90">90</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues.</span>
+Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (<a href =
+"paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page91">91</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Pouzin to Privas</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page92">92</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Teil to Alais</b>, 62 miles S.W. (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page93">93</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the
+interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to Langogne</span> by Mayres and
+Pradelles (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page94">94</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to Montpezat.</span> From Montpezat
+the source of the Loire (<a href = "paris.html#page84">p.&nbsp;84</a>)
+is visited
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page95">95</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Montpezat to Le Puy</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Ruoms to Vallon</span> and the fine natural
+bridge called the Pont d’Arc (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (<a href =
+"paris.html#page98">p.&nbsp;98</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pont d’Avignon</span>, station on W. bank
+of the Rhône, for Avignon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Nîmes To Millau</span> by Vigan (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page105">105</a></span>
+</p>
+
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary">THE RIVIERA.</h4>
+
+<p><b>The Riviera.</b> Hotels, productions, climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page107">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles.</b> Hotels, trams, sights, excursions
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page111">111</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MARSEILLES to MENTON.</b> The French Riviera
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page122">122</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the
+most important is La Seyne (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page123">p.&nbsp;123</a>). From Toulon omnibuses and
+diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant
+towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp.
+<a href = "riviera.html#page124">124</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page129">129</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>), to Hyères from the Place
+Puget (pp.&nbsp;124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place
+d’Italie (<a href = "riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>), to Le
+Pradet from the Place d’Italie (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as
+Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page129">p.&nbsp;129</a>), to Collobrières by La Crau and
+Pierrefeu (<a href = "riviera.html#page130">p.&nbsp;130</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xvii</span>
+<a name = "pagexvii" id = "pagexvii"> </a>
+<!-- png 018 -->
+<p class = "notation">
+Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page127">p.&nbsp;127</a>), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or
+(pp.&nbsp;124, 131).</p>
+
+<p><b>The Iles d’Or.</b> Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page131">131</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Toulon to Hyères</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page132">132</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyères.</b> Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,
+productions, climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page133">133</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page140">p.&nbsp;140</a>); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page141">p.&nbsp;141</a>); to Bormes and
+Lavandou (<a href = "riviera.html#page142">p.&nbsp;142</a>); by coach to
+St. Tropez (<a href = "riviera.html#page134">p.&nbsp;134</a>); whence
+steamer to St. Raphael (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page147">p.&nbsp;147</a>); or coach to Le Luc (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page144">p.&nbsp;144</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>La Pauline.</b> Diligence and train to Hyères
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Carnoules.</b> Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles
+and Ste. Maximin
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Le Luc.</b> Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure
+mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page144">144</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Les Arcs to Draguignan</b> by rail. From Draguignan diligences
+start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at
+these towns with other diligences
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page145">145</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b> to Auribeau, (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.
+156</a>), to Cannet, (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>),
+to Cap d’Antibes (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>), to
+Castelaras (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to
+Croisette (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>), to Croix
+des Gardes (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to
+Estérel (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Grasse
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page160">p.&nbsp;160</a>), to the Iles de
+Lerins (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to Mougins
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to Napoule and
+Theoule (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Pégomas
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to St. Cassien (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Vallauris by the
+Golfe de Jouan and Californie (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page152">p.&nbsp;152</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Grasse</b> to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page163">p.&nbsp;163</a>), to Digne by St. Vallier
+and Castellane (<a href = "riviera.html#page165">p.&nbsp;165</a>), Digne
+to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page166">p.&nbsp;166</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to St. Martin Lantosque</b> by coach, and thence to Cuneo by
+the Col di Finestra
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page180">180</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to Puget-Theniers</b> and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St.
+Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St.
+Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (<a href =
+"riviera.html#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to Cuneo</b> by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Savona to Turin</b> by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and
+Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page183">183</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Beaulieu to Port St. Jean</b> and the Lighthouse&mdash;a pleasant
+walk
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xviii</span>
+<a name = "pagexviii" id = "pagexviii"> </a>
+<!-- png 019 -->
+<p><b>Monte Carlo to Nice</b> by the coast-road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page189">189</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Monaco to La Turbie</b> and the Tête de Chien
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page191">191</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MENTON to GENOA</b>&mdash;the western part of the Italian Riviera,
+called also the Riviera di Ponente
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page200">200</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bordighera</span>, up the valley of the
+Nervia, <span class = "smallcaps">to Pigna</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">San Remo to Monte Bignone</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page205">205</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN</b>&mdash;the eastern Italian Riviera,
+or the Riviera di Levante
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page219">219</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Avenza to Carrara</b> by rail&mdash;a very easy and interesting
+excursion
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page222">222</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to Florence</span> by Pontedera and
+Empoli (<a href = "riviera.html#map199">map, p.&nbsp;199</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to Florence</span> by Lucca, Pistoja
+and Prato
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lucca to the Baths of Lucca</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page230">230</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Florence to Vallombrosa</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page277">277</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Genoa to Turin</span> by
+Alessandria&mdash;a very interesting railway journey
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<h6 class = "sans">END OF THE RIVIERA.</h6>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to TURIN</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MODANE</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Aix-les-Bains to Geneva</span> by Annecy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page286">286</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Modane to Turin</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bussoleno to Susa</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin to Torre-Pellice</b> by Pinerolo
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page305">305</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin</span> by the
+Col de la Croix
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page306">306</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to Mont-Dauphin</span> by the Col
+d’Abriés
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to Cesanne</span> by the Col de
+Sestrières
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</span> by the Col
+de la Traversette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page308">308</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Cuneo to Barcelonnette</span> (<i>see</i>
+<span class = "smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>TURIN to FLORENCE</b> by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page309">309</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xix</span>
+<a name = "pagexix" id = "pagexix"> </a>
+<!-- png 020 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur</span>
+by the Little Saint Bernard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page320">320</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MODANE</b> by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the
+route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys
+about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page322">322</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Grenoble to Sassenage</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page327">327</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Grenoble to Briançon</b> by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de
+Lautaret. A&nbsp;grand mountain road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page328">328</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde</span>, at the
+base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page329">329</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux</span> by La Bessée
+and the Val Louise
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a>,
+<a href = "turin.html#page345">345</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to Oulx</span> by Mt. Genèvre and
+Cesanne
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Grenoble to Corps</b> by La Mure (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>). From Corps another diligence
+proceeds to Gap (<a href = "turin.html#page340">p.&nbsp;340</a>). From
+Corps the pilgrimage is made to N.&nbsp;D. de la Salette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page336">336</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE</b> by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron,
+Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page338">338</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Auban to Digne</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span> by La Javie
+and Seyne (<a href = "turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span> by Draix,
+Colmars and Allos
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE</b> station, 51 miles N.E. by
+rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the
+important passes between France and Italy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page340">340</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to Barcelonnette</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to Grenoble</span> by Corps (<a href =
+"turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page342">342</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo</span> (<a href =
+"turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page344">344</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span> by Saint Etienne (<a
+href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page346">346</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xx</span>
+<a name = "pagexx" id = "pagexx"> </a>
+<!-- png 021 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span> by Tarare (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page348">348</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand</span> by
+Montbrison (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page349">349</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Marseilles</span> by
+Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see <a href = "#map_flyleaf">map on
+fly-leaf</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page351">351</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Moulins to the Baths of
+Bourbon-l’Archambault</span> by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (<a href =
+"paris.html#map1">map, p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page356">356</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Moulins to the Baths of
+Bourbon-Lancy</span> by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is
+Paray-le-Monial (<a href = "paris.html#page27">p.&nbsp;27</a>, <a href =
+"paris.html#map1">map p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page357">357</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</span> by
+Laqueuille
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page376">376</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and
+Bourboule</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page377">377</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dore to Issoire</span> by the Baths of
+St. Nectaire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page385">385</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxi</span>
+<a name = "pagexxi" id = "pagexxi"> </a>
+<!-- png 022 -->
+<h3><a name = "maps" id = "maps">MAPS AND PLANS.</a></h3>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+Some full-page maps have been moved to avoid breaking up paragraphs. All
+links, both here and in the body text, lead to the map itself.</p>
+
+<p>Map references in the text are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy”
+map was printed twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of
+Maps it is given as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as
+“page 27” and “page 26”. “Map. p.&nbsp;199” and “p.&nbsp;200” both refer
+to the Italian Riviera map, also cited twice as “p.&nbsp;220”. The map
+of Hyères (p.&nbsp;129) is twice cited as “p.&nbsp;177”.</p>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Ardèche</b>, general map of, including the northern part of the
+department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the
+Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,
+Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.</p>
+
+<p><b>Arles</b>, a town of great interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map68">68</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Avignon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map59">59</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Bologna</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map316">316</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map155">155</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map149">149</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Corniche Road</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as
+well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice
+and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the
+railway.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains also the <b>Environs</b> of Nice, Monaco, and
+Menton.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dijon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map20">20</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Estérel Mountains</b>, or <b>Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map146">146</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Florence</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map234">234</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza
+Michelangiolo.</p>
+
+<p><b>Galleria degli Uffizi</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map237">237</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both
+sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi
+straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace
+by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.</p>
+
+<p><b>Genoa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map214">214</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyères</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the
+environs of both towns are given on the same map.</p>
+
+<p><b>Italian Riviera</b>, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map199">199</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The
+French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts
+on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to
+Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”</p>
+
+<p><b>Leghorn</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map226">226</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, General plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map30">30</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxii</span>
+<a name = "pagexxii" id = "pagexxii"> </a>
+<!-- png 023 -->
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, Partial plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map33">33</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map113">113</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map123">123</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and
+in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which,
+from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
+are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which
+the largest is Porquerolles.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont Cenis railway</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map291"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "text reads ‘191’">291</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane
+and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to
+Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
+Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont-Dore</b> and <b>Bourboule</b>, Map of environs
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map378">378</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map171">171</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nîmes</b>, interesting Roman ruins
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map101">101</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Paris to Vichy, Macon</b>, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the
+S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,
+Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to
+the&nbsp;N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Pisa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map224">224</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided
+to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo
+or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
+cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain
+over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.</p>
+
+<p><b>Railway Map</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href =
+"#map_flyleaf"><i>Fly-leaf</i></a></span></p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence
+with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and
+Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the
+Rhône.</p>
+
+<p><b>Rhône and Savoy</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map27">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the
+railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes
+between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.</p>
+
+<p><b>Savona to Rapallo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map211">211</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano,
+Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Durance to the Var and San Remo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map163">163</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior,
+approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice.
+From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxiii</span>
+<a name = "pagexxiii" id = "pagexxiii"> </a>
+<!-- png 024 -->
+
+<p><b>The French and Italian Waldensian valleys</b>, with the
+mountain-passes between them
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map304">304</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The high volcanic peaks</b> in the department of Ardèche; among
+which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The Italian Riviera</b> or north-west Italy, including the
+railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map199"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "variously indexed as 199, 200">200</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The Mouths of the Rhône</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this
+neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,
+Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
+the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see
+pp.&nbsp;77, 115, and 338). A&nbsp;little farther down the Durance is
+the commencement of the Craponne canal (<a href =
+"paris.html#map66">p.&nbsp;66</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance</b>, in which
+are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,
+Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map56">56</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Thermometer</b>, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#thermometer">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Toulon</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small
+steamers sailing from the port.</p>
+
+<p><b>Troyes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map12">12</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map293">293</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Vichy</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+</div> <!-- end div page -->
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<hr class = "tiny">
+
+<h4 class = "boldf"><a name = "food" id = "food">CARTE DU JOUR.</a></h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">The</span> following List contains the
+explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes
+mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot
+be translated.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may
+require added salt.</p>
+
+<div class = "food">
+<h5>SOUPS.</h5>
+<p><i>Consommé</i>, beef-tea.</p>
+<p><i>Bouillon</i>, broth.</p>
+<p><i>Potage</i>, soup.</p>
+<p><i>Julienne</i>, vegetable soups.</p>
+<p><i>Purée</i>, pease-soup.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Purée</i>, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,”&nbsp;as&mdash;</p>
+<p><i>Purée de pommes</i>, mashed potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ „</span><i>marron</i>, mashed
+chestnuts.</p>
+
+<h5>BEEF.</h5>
+<p><i>Bœuf au naturel</i>, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Naturel</i> in cookery means “plain.”</p>
+<p><i>Bœuf à la mode</i>, beef stewed with carrots.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+Nearly the same as the next.</p>
+<p><i>Bœuf à la jardinière</i>, beef with vegetables.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau</i>, a sirloin of beef.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau a la jardinière</i>, sirloin with vegetables.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau sauté</i>, sirloin in slices.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Sauté</i> in cookery means “sliced.”</p>
+<p><i>Rosbif aux pommes</i>, roast beef with potatoes.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+In these lists the words <i>de terre</i> are rarely affixed to
+<i>pommes</i>.</p>
+<p><i>Bifteck au naturel</i>, plain beefsteak.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux pommes</i>, with
+potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux pommes sautées</i>, with
+sliced potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux haricots</i>, with kidney
+beans.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>bien cuit</i>, well done.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>saignant</i>, under done.</p>
+<p><i>Palais de Bœuf au gratin</i>, broiled ox palate.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Au gratin</i> in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to
+potatoes it means “browned.”</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxiv</span>
+<a name = "pagexxiv" id = "pagexxiv"> </a>
+<!-- png 025 -->
+
+<h5>MUTTON.</h5>
+<p><i>Côtelettes de mouton au naturel</i>, plain mutton chops.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp;
+„&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>panées</i>, mutton chops fried with crumbs.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>aux
+pointes d’asperge</i>, mutton chops with asparagus tops.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>à la purée
+de pommes</i>, mutton chops with mashed potatoes.</p>
+<p><i>Gigot roti</i>, a roast leg of mutton.</p>
+<p><i>Pieds de mouton</i>, sheep’s trotters.</p>
+<p><i>Gigot d’agneau</i>, a leg of lamb.</p>
+<p><i>Blanquette d’agneau</i>, hashed stewed lamb.</p>
+<p><i>Rognons à la brochette</i>, broiled kidneys.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>sautés</i>, sliced
+kidneys.</p>
+<p><i>Etuvé</i>, stewed.</p>
+
+<h5>VEAL.</h5>
+<p><i>Côtelette de veau</i>, veal cutlet.</p>
+<p><i>Tête de veau en vinaigrette</i>, calf’s head with oil and
+vinegar.</p>
+<p><i>Oreille de veau en marinade</i>, pickled calf’s ear.</p>
+<p><i>Ris de veau</i>, sweetbread.</p>
+<p><i>Foie de veau</i>, calf’s liver.</p>
+<p><i>Blanquette de veau</i>, hashed stewed veal.</p>
+<p><i>Fricandeau au jus</i>, Scotch collops with gravy.</p>
+<p><i>Jus</i>, gravy.</p>
+
+<h5>VEGETABLES.</h5>
+<p><i>Pommes de terre</i>, potatoes.</p>
+<p><i>Legumes et fruits primeurs</i>, early vegetables and fruits.</p>
+<p><i>Asperges à la sauce</i>, asparagus with sauce.</p>
+<p><i>Chou</i>, cabbage.</p>
+<p><i>Champignons</i>, mushrooms.</p>
+<p><i>Epinards</i>, spinage.</p>
+<p><i>Fêves de marais</i>, garden beans.</p>
+<p><i>Haricots verts</i>, green kidney beans.</p>
+<p><i>Oseille</i>, sorrel.</p>
+<p><i>Petits pois</i>, green peas.</p>
+<p><i>Jardinière</i> means “dressed with vegetables.”</p>
+
+<h5>POULTRY AND GAME.</h5>
+<p><i>Poularde</i>, fowl.</p>
+<p><i>Poulet</i>, chicken.</p>
+<p><i>Chapon</i>, capon.</p>
+<p><i>Cuisse de poulet</i>, leg of a chicken.</p>
+<p><i>Des œufs à la coque</i>, boiled eggs.</p>
+<p><i>Dindonneau</i>, young turkey.</p>
+<p><i>Canard</i>, duck.</p>
+<p><i>Perdreau</i>, partridge.</p>
+<p><i>Mauviettes</i>, field-larks.</p>
+<p><i>Alouettes</i>, larks.</p>
+<p><i>Grives</i>, thrushes.</p>
+<p><i>Becasse</i>, woodcock.</p>
+<p><i>Becassine</i>, snipe.</p>
+<p><i>Chevreuil</i>, venison.</p>
+<p><i>Caille</i>, quail.</p>
+
+<h5>FISH.</h5>
+<p><i>Anguille</i>, eel.</p>
+<p><i>Eperlans</i>, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.</p>
+<p><i>Homard</i>, lobster.</p>
+<p><i>Huitres</i>, oysters.</p>
+<p><i>Merlans</i>, whitings.</p>
+<p><i>Morue</i>, cod.</p>
+<p><i>Raie</i>, skate.</p>
+<p><i>Saumon</i>, salmon.</p>
+<p><i>Sole</i>, sole.</p>
+<p><i>Turbot</i>, turbot.</p>
+<p><i>Frit</i>, fried.</p>
+<p><i>Grillé</i>, done on the gridiron.</p>
+
+<h5>DESSERT.</h5>
+<p><i>Compote</i>, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>de pommes</i>, stewed
+apples.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>de pruneaux</i>, stewed
+prunes.</p>
+<p><i>Beignets de pommes</i>, apple fritters.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;
+„&nbsp;</span><i>soufflés</i>, puffed apple fritters.</p>
+<p><i>Mendiants</i>, raisins, nuts and almonds.</p>
+
+<h5>DRINK.</h5>
+<p><i>Vin de Bordeaux</i>, claret.</p>
+<p>A bottle of soda-water is called a <i>siphon</i>. The cheap wines
+ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water.</p>
+<p>At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a
+little extra.</p>
+<p><i>Frappé</i>, applied to liquids, means “iced.”</p>
+<p><i>Caraffe frappé</i>, iced water.</p>
+<p><i>Vin frappé</i>, iced wine.</p>
+<p>The litre of beer is called a <i>canette</i>, and the half-litre a
+<i>choppe</i>.</p>
+<p>The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a <i>carafon</i>,
+a&nbsp;word often used in the cheap restaurants.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div> <!-- end div page -->
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South of France--East Half, by
+Charles Bertram Black
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF ***
+
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/old/files/main.html b/old/files/main.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8f163fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/files/main.html
@@ -0,0 +1,1841 @@
+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>The South of France&mdash;East Half</title>
+<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+
+<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+
+<p>This e-text is divided into three segments, following the book’s
+divisions, with breaks at pg. 106/107 and 280/281. The third section
+includes the General Index. Except in the Lists of Itineraries and Maps,
+and in this introductory section, all links are visually coded. Visual
+details may be overridden by your browser settings, but the links will
+still work.</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#map_flyleaf">anywhere in your current file</a>
+(unmarked)<br>
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html">Pages 1&ndash;106</a>
+(paris.html: <b>boldface</b>)<br>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Pages 107&ndash;280</a>
+(riviera.html: <i>italicized</i>)<br>
+<a class = "turin" href = "turin.html">Pages 281&ndash;end</a>
+(turin.html: <u>underlined</u>)</p>
+
+<p>The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in
+the text, though not in the introductory section:</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+“Those with the figure <sup>1</sup> are first-class houses, with
+<sup>2</sup> second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are
+especially good of their class.”</p>
+
+<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
+text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
+popups</ins>. Missing “from” or “to” mileage numbers have not been
+individually noted.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "#preface">Preface</a><br>
+<a href = "#contents">Itineraries</a><br>
+<a href = "#maps">List of Maps</a><br>
+<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a>
+and
+<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<!-- png 001 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<a name = "map_flyleaf" id = "map_flyleaf"
+href = "images/map_flyleaf.png" target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map_flyleaf_thumb.png" width = "459" height = "366"
+alt = "map of France"></a>
+</p>
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<!-- png 002 -->
+<h1>SOUTH OF FRANCE</h1>
+
+<h2 class = "sans">EAST HALF</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<!-- png 003 -->
+<h3>GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class = "deephang">
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH</span>, with
+Maps and Plan of <span class = "smallcaps">Bath</span>.&nbsp;1s.</p>
+
+<p>TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of <span class =
+"smallcaps">JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK</span>. Illustrated with
+6 Maps and Plan of the Town of <span class = "smallcaps">Saint
+Helier</span>. Second edition.&nbsp;1s.</p>
+
+<p>CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.</p>
+
+<p>BELGIUM, including <span class = "smallcaps">Rotterdam, Flushing,
+Middelburg, Schiedam</span> and <span class =
+"smallcaps">Luxembourg</span>. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps.
+2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Mineral Waters of Contrexéville, Vittel, Martigny,
+Plombières, Luxeuil, Aix-la-chapelle</span>, etc. Illustrated with 5
+Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>TOURAINE, NORMANDY AND BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
+Plans. Eighth edition.&nbsp;5s.</p>
+
+<p class = "inline">
+The above two contain the <span class = "smallcaps">North Half</span> of
+France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of
+Biscay to the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from <span class =
+"smallcaps">Marseilles</span> to <span class =
+"smallcaps">Leghorn</span>, including <span class = "smallcaps">Lucca,
+Pisa</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Florence</span>. Illustrated
+with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s.&nbsp;6d.</p>
+
+<p>FRANCE&mdash;<span class = "smallcaps">South-East
+Half</span>&mdash;including the whole of the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Valley of the Rhône</span> in France, with the adjacent
+Departments; the <span class = "smallcaps">Valley of the Upper
+Loire</span>, with the adjacent Departments; the <span class =
+"smallcaps">Riviera</span>; the <span class = "smallcaps">Passes</span>
+between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of <span class =
+"smallcaps">Turin, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Leghorn</span>
+and <span class = "smallcaps">Pisa</span>. Illustrated with numerous
+Maps and Plans. Fourth edition.&nbsp;5s.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div deephang -->
+
+<hr class = "micro">
+
+<h5 class = "boldf">From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.</h5>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+“<i>C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
+character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
+acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which
+only a man of leisure, a&nbsp;lover of travel, and an intelligent
+observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’
+the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
+of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
+mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
+apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer.</i>”</p>
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<!-- png 004 -->
+<h1 class = "six">THE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "one extended">SOUTH OF FRANCE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">EAST HALF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">INCLUDING THE VALLEYS OF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "three boldf">THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five smallcaps">the BATHS of</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "three">VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">THE WHOLE OF THE</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">WITH THE INLAND TOWNS OF</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five boldf">TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven">AND</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five sans">THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five fancy">Illustrated with Maps and Plans</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "seven sans">FOURTH EDITION</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "six">C. B. BLACK</h1>
+
+<h1 class = "five">EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK<br>
+1885</h1>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class = "mid">
+
+<!-- png 005 -->
+<h6><i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. &amp; R. Clark</span>,
+Edinburgh.</i></h6>
+
+<hr class = "mid">
+
+<div class = "page preface">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">v</span>
+<a name = "pagev" id = "pagev"> </a>
+<!-- png 006 -->
+<h3><a name = "preface" id = "preface">PREFACE.</a></h3>
+
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">This</span> Guide-book consists of
+<i>Routes</i> which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt
+these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the
+Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which
+the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from
+the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is
+printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns
+on the main lines.</p>
+
+<p>Each Route has the <i>Map</i> indicated on which it is to be found.
+By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact
+situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those
+given.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Arrangement</i> of the Routes is such that they may be taken
+either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the
+commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does
+equally well for Marseilles to Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Distance</i> of towns from the place of starting to the
+terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side
+of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route
+from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either
+side from each other.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Description</i> of towns the places of interest have been
+taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all
+that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession.
+Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against
+omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be
+visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all
+the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 <span
+class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> All the
+<span class = "pagenum">vi</span>
+<a name = "pagevi" id = "pagevi"> </a>
+<!-- png 007 -->
+Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays.
+When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment
+of a franc.</p>
+
+<p>In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For
+the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
+Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”</p>
+
+<p>Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
+Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
+understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
+safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
+sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
+with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
+influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
+prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
+doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
+sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
+walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
+which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
+exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
+Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
+indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
+railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I&nbsp;would
+strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
+health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
+to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
+situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
+mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
+climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
+of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
+his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
+requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
+to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
+will demand
+<span class = "pagenum">vii</span>
+<a name = "pagevii" id = "pagevii"> </a>
+<!-- png 008 -->
+even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to
+all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be
+enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate,
+a&nbsp;disease of long standing.</p>
+
+<p>“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
+strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
+witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
+deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
+surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
+which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
+left their own country&mdash;the recovery of their health. This appeared
+to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.</p>
+
+<p>“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
+living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
+exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
+‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
+late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
+promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
+counteracted by the operation of these causes.” &mdash;<i>Sir James
+Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate.</i></p>
+
+<h6 class = "sans">SEE <a href = "paris.html#map27">MAP PAGE 27</a>, AND
+<a href = "#map_flyleaf">MAP ON FLY-LEAF</a>.</h6>
+
+<p>Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
+at some of the baths, such as <a href = "turin.html#page359">Vichy</a>
+(p.&nbsp;359), <a href = "paris.html#page93">Vals</a> (p.&nbsp;93),
+<a href = "turin.html#page378">Mont-Dore</a> (p.&nbsp;378), <a href =
+"turin.html#page383">Bourboule</a> (p.&nbsp;383), <a href =
+"turin.html#page283">Aix-les-Bains</a> (p.&nbsp;283), <a href =
+"turin.html#page357">Bourbon-l’Archambault</a> (p.&nbsp;357), or <a href
+= "turin.html#page358">Bourbon-Lancy</a> (p.&nbsp;358). If at the
+eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
+Savona (pp. <a href = "riviera.html#page209">209</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page183">183</a>), or from Genoa (pp. <a href =
+"riviera.html#page212">212</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page279">279</a>) to <a href =
+"turin.html#page292">Turin</a> (p.&nbsp;292). From Turin a short branch
+line extends to <a href = "turin.html#page305">Torre-Pèllice</a>
+(p.&nbsp;305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
+valleys.</p>
+
+<p>If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
+a&nbsp;halt may be made for the night at <a href =
+"turin.html#page290">Modane</a> (p.&nbsp;290); where, however, on
+account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp
+and bracing.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">viii</span>
+<a name = "pageviii" id = "pageviii"> </a>
+<!-- png 009 -->
+
+<p>From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
+baths is by the valley of the Rhône (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>), in which there are many places of great interest, such
+as <a href = "paris.html#page68">Arles</a> (p.&nbsp;68), <a href =
+"paris.html#page58">Avignon</a> (p.&nbsp;58), <a href =
+"paris.html#page51">Orange</a> (p.&nbsp;51), and <a href =
+"paris.html#page29">Lyons</a> (p.&nbsp;29). From Lyons take the western
+branch by <a href = "turin.html#page349">Montbrison</a> (p.&nbsp;349)
+for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern
+by <a href = "turin.html#page281">Ambérieux</a> (p.&nbsp;281) and
+<a href = "turin.html#page282">Culoz</a> (p.&nbsp;282). From Avignon,
+<a href = "paris.html#page54">Carpentras</a> (p.&nbsp;54), Pont-St. <a href
+= "paris.html#page98">Esprit</a> (p.&nbsp;98), <a href =
+"paris.html#page48">Montélimart</a> (p.&nbsp;48), La <a href =
+"paris.html#page82">Voulte</a> (p.&nbsp;82), <a href =
+"paris.html#page46">Crest</a> (p.&nbsp;46) and <a href =
+"turin.html#page324">Grenoble</a> (p.&nbsp;324), interesting and
+picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont <a href =
+"paris.html#page56">Ventoux</a> (p.&nbsp;56) is visited. From La Voulte,
+<a href = "paris.html#page45">Ardechè</a> (p.&nbsp;45) is entered. From
+Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres
+(pp. <a href = "paris.html#page47">47</a> and <a href =
+"turin.html#page345">345</a>). From Grenoble the roads and railways
+diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the
+mountain passes between France and Italy.</p>
+
+<p class = "space">
+None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
+travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
+They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great
+use.</p>
+
+<p class = "space">
+The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
+cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
+including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
+the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9&nbsp;frs. per day. Meat
+breakfast, 2 to 3&nbsp;frs.; dinner, 3 to 4&nbsp;frs.; service, ½ fr.;
+“café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the
+hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most
+cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he
+expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of
+bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to
+2&nbsp;frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage
+he expects a gratuity.</p>
+
+<p>Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
+stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
+should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
+2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary
+Information.”</p>
+
+<p class = "right">C. B. B.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div preface -->
+
+
+<div class = "page prelim">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">ix</span>
+<a name = "pageix" id = "pageix"> </a>
+<!-- png 010 -->
+<h3><a name = "prelim" id = "prelim">PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.</a></h3>
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">
+THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE<br>
+OF THE CHANNEL.</h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">The</span> six principal ports on the
+French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris
+are:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+Dieppe&mdash;distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100
+m.; Rouen, 85&nbsp;m.; Gaillon, 58&nbsp;m.; Mantes Junction, 36&nbsp;m.;
+and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins
+de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st class,
+25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris <i>via</i> Newhaven and Dieppe (240
+miles):&mdash;tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and
+London Bridge Station. Fare&mdash;1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl.
+16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey,
+16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest,
+Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent,
+M.&nbsp;Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A.&nbsp;Collin et C<sup>ie</sup>,
+20 Boulevard Saint Denis.</p>
+
+<p>From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,
+Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105
+miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
+station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.</p>
+
+<p>From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
+Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40
+minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at
+the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains
+by this line.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+BOULOGNE&mdash;distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
+Abbeville, 109&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.; Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and
+Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du
+Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris, <i>via</i>, Folkestone and Boulogne (255
+miles):&mdash;tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and
+second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40
+minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne&mdash;1st class, 56s.;
+2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in
+Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">x</span>
+<a name = "pagex" id = "pagex"> </a>
+<!-- png 011 -->
+
+<p class = "space">
+CALAIS&mdash;185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158&nbsp;m.; Montreuil,
+134 m.; Abbeville, 109&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.; Clermont,
+41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of
+the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½
+hours. Fares&mdash;1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.</p>
+
+<p>London to Paris, <i>via</i> Dover and Calais (mail route, distance
+283 miles);&mdash;departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
+Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
+class, express. Fares&mdash;60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to
+Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and
+examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply
+at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+CALAIS&mdash;204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177&nbsp;m.;
+Hazebrouck, 165&nbsp;m.; Arras, 119&nbsp;m.; Amiens, 82&nbsp;m.;
+Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. Arrives at the station, No.
+18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares&mdash;1st class, 36
+frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d<ins class = "correction" title =
+"superfluous . omitted"> </ins>cl. 20 frs. 10 c.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+DUNKERQUE&mdash;190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
+165&nbsp;m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119&nbsp;m.;
+Amiens, 81&nbsp;m.; Clermont, 41&nbsp;m.; and Creil, 32&nbsp;m. Arrives
+at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares&mdash;1st
+class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c.</p>
+
+<p>England and Channel, <i>via</i> Thames and Dunkirk
+(screw):&mdash;tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from
+Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+LE HAVRE&mdash;142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138&nbsp;m.;
+Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123&nbsp;m.; Yvetot,
+111&nbsp;m.; Rouen, 87&nbsp;m.; Gaillon, 58&nbsp;m.; Mantes Junction,
+36&nbsp;m.; and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe
+and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124
+Rue St. Lazare. Fares&mdash;1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5
+c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly
+3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.</p>
+
+<p>London and Channel, <i>via</i> Southampton and Le
+Havre:&mdash;Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton
+11.45 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> Sea journey, 80&nbsp;m.;
+time, 8 hours.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "space">
+CHERBOURG&mdash;231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184&nbsp;m.; Bayeux, 167
+m.; Caen, 149&nbsp;m.; Mezidon Junction, 134&nbsp;m.; Lisieux,
+119&nbsp;m.; Serquigny Junction, 93&nbsp;m.; Evreux, 67&nbsp;m.; Mantes
+Junction, 36&nbsp;m.; and Poissy, 17&nbsp;m. from Paris. Time by
+express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours.</p>
+
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.</h4>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but
+the time is more accurately kept.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
+luggage free.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xi</span>
+<a name = "pagexi" id = "pagexi"> </a>
+<!-- png 012 -->
+<h5 class = "ital">Railway Time-Tables.</h5>
+
+<p>Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
+official time-tables are those published by Chaix and C<sup>ie</sup>,
+and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications
+there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
+“Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the French
+railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with
+a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix
+Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at
+every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
+time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
+map.</p>
+
+<p>The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the
+“Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à
+la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the “Chemins
+de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their
+stations. Price 40 c. Size 18<sup>me</sup>. With good index.</p>
+
+<p>For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous
+les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
+Size 18<sup>me</sup>. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of
+Belgium.</p>
+
+<p>For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate
+d’Italia.” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours.
+Price 1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p>In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the
+stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of
+which 8 make 5&nbsp;miles. <i>Lleg.</i> or <i>Llegada</i> means
+“arrival”; <i>Salida</i>, “departure.”</p>
+
+<p>In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,
+Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
+price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">In the Railway Station.</h5>
+
+<p>Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the
+index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain
+the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
+refreshment rooms (marked&nbsp;B), and the time the train halts at each
+on its way.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people
+before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold.
+Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to
+the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your
+ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also
+“bulletins.”</p>
+
+<p>After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a
+luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office,
+where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10&nbsp;c. or 2 sous.
+Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column
+headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your articles
+has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures
+3,&nbsp;5,
+<span class = "pagenum">xii</span>
+<a name = "pagexii" id = "pagexii"> </a>
+<!-- png 013 -->
+and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember,
+when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the
+whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be
+treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be
+overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party
+on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their
+carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster
+(chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the
+train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must
+be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être
+visé).</p>
+
+<p>The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find
+it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,
+having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the
+porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage
+ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">On the Railway.</h5>
+
+<p>In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway
+map, and note the junctions; for at many of these&mdash;such as Amiens,
+Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.&mdash;the passengers are frequently
+discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await
+other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the
+names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,
+otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our
+railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction
+required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du
+Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with
+confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we
+must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found
+very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference.</p>
+
+<p><i>Buffet</i> means “refreshment-room”; and <i>Salle d’Attente</i>,
+“waiting-room.”</p>
+
+<p>There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for
+ladies.</p>
+
+<p>Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "ital">Railway Omnibuses.</h5>
+
+<p>At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of
+omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by
+the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private
+Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town
+for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus
+be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his
+destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or
+hotels whose name or names it bears.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div prelim -->
+
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xiii</span>
+<a name = "pagexiii" id = "pagexiii"> </a>
+<!-- png 014 -->
+
+<h3><a name = "contents" id = "contents">CONTENTS.</a></h3>
+
+<h4 class = "boldf">
+RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the<br>
+SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN<br>
+PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">For</span> the whole of the south-east of
+France use the time-tables of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à
+la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use
+the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1&nbsp;fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides
+the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams,
+which traverse the country in all directions.</p>
+
+<p>In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern
+Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and
+Dover Railway,&nbsp;3d.</p>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MENTON</b> by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons,
+Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes,
+Nice and Monaco (see <a href = "#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey
+into two parts&mdash;Paris to Marseilles (<a href =
+"paris.html#page1">p.&nbsp;1</a>), and Marseilles to Menton (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page122">p.&nbsp;122</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MARSEILLES</b><span class = "page"><a href =
+"paris.html#page1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most
+interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which
+the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good
+resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles
+should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
+from this great central railway are</p>
+
+<p><b>La Roche to Les Laumes</b> by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,
+Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay,
+containing a grand and vast church<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">.&nbsp;</ins>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page14">14</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xiv</span>
+<a name = "pagexiv" id = "pagexiv"> </a>
+<!-- png 015 -->
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (<a href =
+"paris.html#page14">p.&nbsp;14</a>), with its famous wines, passing
+through Pontigny (<a href = "paris.html#page16">p.&nbsp;16</a>), where
+Thomas à Becket resided.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Verrey (<a href = "paris.html#page19">p. 19</a>) is a good station to
+alight at, to visit the source of the Seine.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From <b>Dijon</b> (<a href = "paris.html#page20">p. 20</a>) southwards
+to Chagny (p<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">. </ins>24)
+are the famous Burgundy vineyards.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Chagny to Nevers</b> by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (<a href
+= "paris.html#page24">p.&nbsp;24</a>) is one of the most ancient cities
+in France. At Creusot (<a href = "paris.html#page25">p.&nbsp;25</a>) are
+very large ironworks.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Macon to Paray-le-Monial</b> by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (<a href =
+"paris.html#page27">p.&nbsp;27</a>) a&nbsp;nun called Alacoque is said
+to have had several interviews with J.&nbsp;C.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b>Lyons</b> (<a href = "paris.html#page29">p. 29</a>), though a
+splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an
+important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is
+Aix-les-Bains (<a href = "turin.html#page283">p.&nbsp;283</a>). 76 miles
+S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (<a href =
+"turin.html#page324">p.&nbsp;324</a>). Voiron is the station for the
+Grande Chartreuse (<a href = "turin.html#page323">p.&nbsp;323</a>). From
+the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (<a href =
+"turin.html#page349">p.&nbsp;349</a>), is Clermont-Ferrand (<a href =
+"turin.html#page369">p.&nbsp;369</a>). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (<a
+href = "turin.html#page346">p.&nbsp;346</a>) is Le Puy (<a href =
+"paris.html#page86">p.&nbsp;86</a>). The rail from Lyons along the E.
+side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (<a href =
+"paris.html#page58">p.&nbsp;58</a>) and Arles (<a href =
+"paris.html#page68">p.&nbsp;68</a>); and on the W. side to Nîmes (<a
+href = "paris.html#page101">p.&nbsp;101</a>). See <a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>.</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to Grenoble</span>, 62 miles N.E.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page44">44</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to Ardèche</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page45">45</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Crest to Montelimart</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Crest to Dieulefit</b> by Saou and Bourdeaux
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated
+from Dieulefit by a high mountain.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crest to Aspres</b>, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the
+whole of the valley of the river Drôme (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page47">47</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Montelimart to Grignan</span>, where Madame
+Sévigné died
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page49">49</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>La Croisière to Nyons</b>, 29½ miles E. (<a href =
+"paris.html#page50">p.&nbsp;50</a>). The climate of Nyons is mild and
+well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another
+coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (<a href =
+"paris.html#page51">p.&nbsp;51</a>) on the railway between Marseilles
+and Grenoble (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xv</span>
+<a name = "pagexv" id = "pagexv"> </a>
+<!-- png 016 -->
+
+<p><b>Sorgues to Carpentras</b>, 10½ m. east
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page54">54</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of
+places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (<a href =
+"paris.html#page56">p.&nbsp;56</a>) and Vaison (<a href =
+"paris.html#page53">p.&nbsp;53</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Avignon to Nîmes</b> by the famous Roman aqueduct called the
+Pont-du-Gard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse</span>,
+where Petrarch lived for some time
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to Manosque</span> by Apt (<a href
+= "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to Miramas</span> by Cavaillon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page67">67</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Fontvieille</span> by Mont-Majour.
+Arles has magnificent Roman remains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page71">71</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Port St. Louis</span> at the mouth
+of the Rhône
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Port-Bouc</span>, across the
+Camargue, by the canal steamboat
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page76">76</a> and <a href =
+"paris.html#page72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to Aigues-Mortes</span> by St. Gilles
+and Lunel
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lunel to Montpellier</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page73">73</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour</b>, which brings water to
+Marseilles from the Durance
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page77">77</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.</b> Aix has communication
+by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page78">78</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône</b> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Peyraud</span> by rail to Annonay, and
+thence by coach to St. Etienne
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>La Voulte to Le Cheilard</b>, the chief diligence centre in the
+department of Ardèche (<a href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>The road to the source of the Loire (<a href =
+"paris.html#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage</span> (<a href
+= "paris.html#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Béage to Le Puy</span> by Le Monastier
+(<a href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page85">85</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to Langogne</span> by Pradelles (<a
+href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page88">88</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to Langeac</span> by St. Georges (<a
+href = "paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xvi</span>
+<a name = "pagexvi" id = "pagexvi"> </a>
+<!-- png 017 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Darsac to Chaise-Dieu</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map46">map, p. 46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Chaise-Dieu to Thiers</span> by Arlanc and
+Ambert (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page90">90</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues.</span>
+Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (<a href =
+"paris.html#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page91">91</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Le Pouzin to Privas</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page92">92</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Teil to Alais</b>, 62 miles S.W. (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page93">93</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the
+interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to Langogne</span> by Mayres and
+Pradelles (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page94">94</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to Montpezat.</span> From Montpezat
+the source of the Loire (<a href = "paris.html#page84">p.&nbsp;84</a>)
+is visited
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page95">95</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Montpezat to Le Puy</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Ruoms to Vallon</span> and the fine natural
+bridge called the Pont d’Arc (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (<a href =
+"paris.html#page98">p.&nbsp;98</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pont d’Avignon</span>, station on W. bank
+of the Rhône, for Avignon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Nîmes To Millau</span> by Vigan (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#page105">105</a></span>
+</p>
+
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary">THE RIVIERA.</h4>
+
+<p><b>The Riviera.</b> Hotels, productions, climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page107">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles.</b> Hotels, trams, sights, excursions
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page111">111</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MARSEILLES to MENTON.</b> The French Riviera
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page122">122</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the
+most important is La Seyne (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page123">p.&nbsp;123</a>). From Toulon omnibuses and
+diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant
+towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp.
+<a href = "riviera.html#page124">124</a> and <a href =
+"riviera.html#page129">129</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>), to Hyères from the Place
+Puget (pp.&nbsp;124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place
+d’Italie (<a href = "riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>), to Le
+Pradet from the Place d’Italie (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as
+Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page129">p.&nbsp;129</a>), to Collobrières by La Crau and
+Pierrefeu (<a href = "riviera.html#page130">p.&nbsp;130</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xvii</span>
+<a name = "pagexvii" id = "pagexvii"> </a>
+<!-- png 018 -->
+<p class = "notation">
+Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page127">p.&nbsp;127</a>), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or
+(pp.&nbsp;124, 131).</p>
+
+<p><b>The Iles d’Or.</b> Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page131">131</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Toulon to Hyères</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page132">132</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyères.</b> Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,
+productions, climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page133">133</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page140">p.&nbsp;140</a>); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page141">p.&nbsp;141</a>); to Bormes and
+Lavandou (<a href = "riviera.html#page142">p.&nbsp;142</a>); by coach to
+St. Tropez (<a href = "riviera.html#page134">p.&nbsp;134</a>); whence
+steamer to St. Raphael (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page147">p.&nbsp;147</a>); or coach to Le Luc (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page144">p.&nbsp;144</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>La Pauline.</b> Diligence and train to Hyères
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Carnoules.</b> Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles
+and Ste. Maximin
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Le Luc.</b> Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure
+mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page144">144</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Les Arcs to Draguignan</b> by rail. From Draguignan diligences
+start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at
+these towns with other diligences
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page145">145</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b> to Auribeau, (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.
+156</a>), to Cannet, (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>),
+to Cap d’Antibes (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>), to
+Castelaras (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to
+Croisette (<a href = "riviera.html#page154">p.&nbsp;154</a>), to Croix
+des Gardes (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to
+Estérel (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Grasse
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page160">p.&nbsp;160</a>), to the Iles de
+Lerins (<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to Mougins
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to Napoule and
+Theoule (<a href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Pégomas
+(<a href = "riviera.html#page156">p.&nbsp;156</a>), to St. Cassien (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page155">p.&nbsp;155</a>), to Vallauris by the
+Golfe de Jouan and Californie (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page152">p.&nbsp;152</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Grasse</b> to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (<a
+href = "riviera.html#page163">p.&nbsp;163</a>), to Digne by St. Vallier
+and Castellane (<a href = "riviera.html#page165">p.&nbsp;165</a>), Digne
+to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (<a href =
+"riviera.html#page166">p.&nbsp;166</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to St. Martin Lantosque</b> by coach, and thence to Cuneo by
+the Col di Finestra
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page180">180</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to Puget-Theniers</b> and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St.
+Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St.
+Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (<a href =
+"riviera.html#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to Cuneo</b> by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Savona to Turin</b> by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and
+Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page183">183</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Beaulieu to Port St. Jean</b> and the Lighthouse&mdash;a pleasant
+walk
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xviii</span>
+<a name = "pagexviii" id = "pagexviii"> </a>
+<!-- png 019 -->
+<p><b>Monte Carlo to Nice</b> by the coast-road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page189">189</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Monaco to La Turbie</b> and the Tête de Chien
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page191">191</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MENTON to GENOA</b>&mdash;the western part of the Italian Riviera,
+called also the Riviera di Ponente
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page200">200</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bordighera</span>, up the valley of the
+Nervia, <span class = "smallcaps">to Pigna</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">San Remo to Monte Bignone</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page205">205</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN</b>&mdash;the eastern Italian Riviera,
+or the Riviera di Levante
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page219">219</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Avenza to Carrara</b> by rail&mdash;a very easy and interesting
+excursion
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page222">222</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to Florence</span> by Pontedera and
+Empoli (<a href = "riviera.html#map199">map, p.&nbsp;199</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to Florence</span> by Lucca, Pistoja
+and Prato
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lucca to the Baths of Lucca</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page230">230</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Florence to Vallombrosa</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page277">277</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Genoa to Turin</span> by
+Alessandria&mdash;a very interesting railway journey
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<h6 class = "sans">END OF THE RIVIERA.</h6>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to TURIN</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MODANE</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Aix-les-Bains to Geneva</span> by Annecy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page286">286</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Modane to Turin</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bussoleno to Susa</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin to Torre-Pellice</b> by Pinerolo
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page305">305</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin</span> by the
+Col de la Croix
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page306">306</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to Mont-Dauphin</span> by the Col
+d’Abriés
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to Cesanne</span> by the Col de
+Sestrières
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</span> by the Col
+de la Traversette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page308">308</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Cuneo to Barcelonnette</span> (<i>see</i>
+<span class = "smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>TURIN to FLORENCE</b> by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page309">309</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xix</span>
+<a name = "pagexix" id = "pagexix"> </a>
+<!-- png 020 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur</span>
+by the Little Saint Bernard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page320">320</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>PARIS to MODANE</b> by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the
+route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys
+about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page322">322</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Grenoble to Sassenage</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page327">327</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Grenoble to Briançon</b> by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de
+Lautaret. A&nbsp;grand mountain road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page328">328</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde</span>, at the
+base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page329">329</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux</span> by La Bessée
+and the Val Louise
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a>,
+<a href = "turin.html#page345">345</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to Oulx</span> by Mt. Genèvre and
+Cesanne
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Grenoble to Corps</b> by La Mure (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>). From Corps another diligence
+proceeds to Gap (<a href = "turin.html#page340">p.&nbsp;340</a>). From
+Corps the pilgrimage is made to N.&nbsp;D. de la Salette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page336">336</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE</b> by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron,
+Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page338">338</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Auban to Digne</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span> by La Javie
+and Seyne (<a href = "turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span> by Draix,
+Colmars and Allos
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE</b> station, 51 miles N.E. by
+rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the
+important passes between France and Italy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page340">340</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to Barcelonnette</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span> (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to Grenoble</span> by Corps (<a href =
+"turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page342">342</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo</span> (<a href =
+"turin.html#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page344">344</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span> by Saint Etienne (<a
+href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page346">346</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xx</span>
+<a name = "pagexx" id = "pagexx"> </a>
+<!-- png 021 -->
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span> by Tarare (<a href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page348">348</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand</span> by
+Montbrison (<a href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page349">349</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to Marseilles</span> by
+Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see <a href = "#map_flyleaf">map on
+fly-leaf</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page351">351</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Moulins to the Baths of
+Bourbon-l’Archambault</span> by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (<a href =
+"paris.html#map1">map, p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page356">356</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Moulins to the Baths of
+Bourbon-Lancy</span> by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is
+Paray-le-Monial (<a href = "paris.html#page27">p.&nbsp;27</a>, <a href =
+"paris.html#map1">map p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page357">357</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">St. Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</span> by
+Laqueuille
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page376">376</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and
+Bourboule</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page377">377</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dore to Issoire</span> by the Baths of
+St. Nectaire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#page385">385</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxi</span>
+<a name = "pagexxi" id = "pagexxi"> </a>
+<!-- png 022 -->
+<h3><a name = "maps" id = "maps">MAPS AND PLANS.</a></h3>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+Some full-page maps have been moved to avoid breaking up paragraphs. All
+links, both here and in the body text, lead to the map itself.</p>
+
+<p>Map references in the text are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy”
+map was printed twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of
+Maps it is given as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as
+“page 27” and “page 26”. “Map. p.&nbsp;199” and “p.&nbsp;200” both refer
+to the Italian Riviera map, also cited twice as “p.&nbsp;220”. The map
+of Hyères (p.&nbsp;129) is twice cited as “p.&nbsp;177”.</p>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Ardèche</b>, general map of, including the northern part of the
+department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the
+Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,
+Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.</p>
+
+<p><b>Arles</b>, a town of great interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map68">68</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Avignon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map59">59</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Bologna</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map316">316</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map155">155</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map149">149</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Corniche Road</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as
+well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice
+and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the
+railway.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains also the <b>Environs</b> of Nice, Monaco, and
+Menton.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dijon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map20">20</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Estérel Mountains</b>, or <b>Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map146">146</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Florence</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map234">234</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza
+Michelangiolo.</p>
+
+<p><b>Galleria degli Uffizi</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map237">237</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both
+sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi
+straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace
+by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.</p>
+
+<p><b>Genoa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map214">214</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyères</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the
+environs of both towns are given on the same map.</p>
+
+<p><b>Italian Riviera</b>, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map199">199</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The
+French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts
+on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to
+Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”</p>
+
+<p><b>Leghorn</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map226">226</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, General plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map30">30</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxii</span>
+<a name = "pagexxii" id = "pagexxii"> </a>
+<!-- png 023 -->
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, Partial plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map33">33</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map113">113</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map123">123</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and
+in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which,
+from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
+are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which
+the largest is Porquerolles.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont Cenis railway</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map291"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "text reads ‘191’">291</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane
+and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to
+Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
+Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont-Dore</b> and <b>Bourboule</b>, Map of environs
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map378">378</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map171">171</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nîmes</b>, interesting Roman ruins
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map101">101</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Paris to Vichy, Macon</b>, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the
+S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,
+Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to
+the&nbsp;N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Pisa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map224">224</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided
+to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo
+or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
+cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain
+over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.</p>
+
+<p><b>Railway Map</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href =
+"#map_flyleaf"><i>Fly-leaf</i></a></span></p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence
+with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and
+Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the
+Rhône.</p>
+
+<p><b>Rhône and Savoy</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map27">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the
+railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes
+between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.</p>
+
+<p><b>Savona to Rapallo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map211">211</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano,
+Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Durance to the Var and San Remo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map163">163</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior,
+approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice.
+From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxiii</span>
+<a name = "pagexxiii" id = "pagexxiii"> </a>
+<!-- png 024 -->
+
+<p><b>The French and Italian Waldensian valleys</b>, with the
+mountain-passes between them
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map304">304</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The high volcanic peaks</b> in the department of Ardèche; among
+which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The Italian Riviera</b> or north-west Italy, including the
+railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map199"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "variously indexed as 199, 200">200</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The Mouths of the Rhône</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this
+neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,
+Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
+the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see
+pp.&nbsp;77, 115, and 338). A&nbsp;little farther down the Durance is
+the commencement of the Craponne canal (<a href =
+"paris.html#map66">p.&nbsp;66</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance</b>, in which
+are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,
+Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map56">56</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Thermometer</b>, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#thermometer">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Toulon</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "riviera.html#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small
+steamers sailing from the port.</p>
+
+<p><b>Troyes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "paris.html#map12">12</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map293">293</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Vichy</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "turin.html#map359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+</div> <!-- end div page -->
+
+<div class = "page">
+
+<hr class = "tiny">
+
+<h4 class = "boldf"><a name = "food" id = "food">CARTE DU JOUR.</a></h4>
+
+<p><span class = "firstword">The</span> following List contains the
+explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes
+mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot
+be translated.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may
+require added salt.</p>
+
+<div class = "food">
+<h5>SOUPS.</h5>
+<p><i>Consommé</i>, beef-tea.</p>
+<p><i>Bouillon</i>, broth.</p>
+<p><i>Potage</i>, soup.</p>
+<p><i>Julienne</i>, vegetable soups.</p>
+<p><i>Purée</i>, pease-soup.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Purée</i>, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,”&nbsp;as&mdash;</p>
+<p><i>Purée de pommes</i>, mashed potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ „</span><i>marron</i>, mashed
+chestnuts.</p>
+
+<h5>BEEF.</h5>
+<p><i>Bœuf au naturel</i>, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Naturel</i> in cookery means “plain.”</p>
+<p><i>Bœuf à la mode</i>, beef stewed with carrots.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+Nearly the same as the next.</p>
+<p><i>Bœuf à la jardinière</i>, beef with vegetables.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau</i>, a sirloin of beef.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau a la jardinière</i>, sirloin with vegetables.</p>
+<p><i>Aloyau sauté</i>, sirloin in slices.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Sauté</i> in cookery means “sliced.”</p>
+<p><i>Rosbif aux pommes</i>, roast beef with potatoes.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+In these lists the words <i>de terre</i> are rarely affixed to
+<i>pommes</i>.</p>
+<p><i>Bifteck au naturel</i>, plain beefsteak.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux pommes</i>, with
+potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux pommes sautées</i>, with
+sliced potatoes.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>aux haricots</i>, with kidney
+beans.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>bien cuit</i>, well done.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp;„ </span><i>saignant</i>, under done.</p>
+<p><i>Palais de Bœuf au gratin</i>, broiled ox palate.</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<i>Au gratin</i> in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to
+potatoes it means “browned.”</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">xxiv</span>
+<a name = "pagexxiv" id = "pagexxiv"> </a>
+<!-- png 025 -->
+
+<h5>MUTTON.</h5>
+<p><i>Côtelettes de mouton au naturel</i>, plain mutton chops.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp;
+„&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>panées</i>, mutton chops fried with crumbs.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>aux
+pointes d’asperge</i>, mutton chops with asparagus tops.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span><i>à la purée
+de pommes</i>, mutton chops with mashed potatoes.</p>
+<p><i>Gigot roti</i>, a roast leg of mutton.</p>
+<p><i>Pieds de mouton</i>, sheep’s trotters.</p>
+<p><i>Gigot d’agneau</i>, a leg of lamb.</p>
+<p><i>Blanquette d’agneau</i>, hashed stewed lamb.</p>
+<p><i>Rognons à la brochette</i>, broiled kidneys.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>sautés</i>, sliced
+kidneys.</p>
+<p><i>Etuvé</i>, stewed.</p>
+
+<h5>VEAL.</h5>
+<p><i>Côtelette de veau</i>, veal cutlet.</p>
+<p><i>Tête de veau en vinaigrette</i>, calf’s head with oil and
+vinegar.</p>
+<p><i>Oreille de veau en marinade</i>, pickled calf’s ear.</p>
+<p><i>Ris de veau</i>, sweetbread.</p>
+<p><i>Foie de veau</i>, calf’s liver.</p>
+<p><i>Blanquette de veau</i>, hashed stewed veal.</p>
+<p><i>Fricandeau au jus</i>, Scotch collops with gravy.</p>
+<p><i>Jus</i>, gravy.</p>
+
+<h5>VEGETABLES.</h5>
+<p><i>Pommes de terre</i>, potatoes.</p>
+<p><i>Legumes et fruits primeurs</i>, early vegetables and fruits.</p>
+<p><i>Asperges à la sauce</i>, asparagus with sauce.</p>
+<p><i>Chou</i>, cabbage.</p>
+<p><i>Champignons</i>, mushrooms.</p>
+<p><i>Epinards</i>, spinage.</p>
+<p><i>Fêves de marais</i>, garden beans.</p>
+<p><i>Haricots verts</i>, green kidney beans.</p>
+<p><i>Oseille</i>, sorrel.</p>
+<p><i>Petits pois</i>, green peas.</p>
+<p><i>Jardinière</i> means “dressed with vegetables.”</p>
+
+<h5>POULTRY AND GAME.</h5>
+<p><i>Poularde</i>, fowl.</p>
+<p><i>Poulet</i>, chicken.</p>
+<p><i>Chapon</i>, capon.</p>
+<p><i>Cuisse de poulet</i>, leg of a chicken.</p>
+<p><i>Des œufs à la coque</i>, boiled eggs.</p>
+<p><i>Dindonneau</i>, young turkey.</p>
+<p><i>Canard</i>, duck.</p>
+<p><i>Perdreau</i>, partridge.</p>
+<p><i>Mauviettes</i>, field-larks.</p>
+<p><i>Alouettes</i>, larks.</p>
+<p><i>Grives</i>, thrushes.</p>
+<p><i>Becasse</i>, woodcock.</p>
+<p><i>Becassine</i>, snipe.</p>
+<p><i>Chevreuil</i>, venison.</p>
+<p><i>Caille</i>, quail.</p>
+
+<h5>FISH.</h5>
+<p><i>Anguille</i>, eel.</p>
+<p><i>Eperlans</i>, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.</p>
+<p><i>Homard</i>, lobster.</p>
+<p><i>Huitres</i>, oysters.</p>
+<p><i>Merlans</i>, whitings.</p>
+<p><i>Morue</i>, cod.</p>
+<p><i>Raie</i>, skate.</p>
+<p><i>Saumon</i>, salmon.</p>
+<p><i>Sole</i>, sole.</p>
+<p><i>Turbot</i>, turbot.</p>
+<p><i>Frit</i>, fried.</p>
+<p><i>Grillé</i>, done on the gridiron.</p>
+
+<h5>DESSERT.</h5>
+<p><i>Compote</i>, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>de pommes</i>, stewed
+apples.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „ </span><i>de pruneaux</i>, stewed
+prunes.</p>
+<p><i>Beignets de pommes</i>, apple fritters.</p>
+<p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; „&nbsp;„&nbsp;
+„&nbsp;</span><i>soufflés</i>, puffed apple fritters.</p>
+<p><i>Mendiants</i>, raisins, nuts and almonds.</p>
+
+<h5>DRINK.</h5>
+<p><i>Vin de Bordeaux</i>, claret.</p>
+<p>A bottle of soda-water is called a <i>siphon</i>. The cheap wines
+ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water.</p>
+<p>At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a
+little extra.</p>
+<p><i>Frappé</i>, applied to liquids, means “iced.”</p>
+<p><i>Caraffe frappé</i>, iced water.</p>
+<p><i>Vin frappé</i>, iced wine.</p>
+<p>The litre of beer is called a <i>canette</i>, and the half-litre a
+<i>choppe</i>.</p>
+<p>The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a <i>carafon</i>,
+a&nbsp;word often used in the cheap restaurants.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div> <!-- end div page -->
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>The South of France&mdash;East Half (Paris to Marseilles)</title>
+<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+
+<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
+text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
+popups</ins>.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a>
+(<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<br>
+Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_contents">Itineraries</a><br>
+Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_maps">Maps</a><br>
+Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#to_riviera">Text</a><br>
+<br>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a>
+and
+<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part1_contents" id = "part1_contents">ITINERARY</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 1&ndash;106)</span></h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles"><b>PARIS to MARSEILLES</b></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most
+interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which
+the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good
+resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles
+should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
+from this great central railway are</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#la_roche_to_les_laumes"><b>La Roche to Les Laumes</b></a>
+by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a
+coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast
+church.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page14">14</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From Auxerre a coach runs to <a href = "#chablis">Chablis</a>
+(p.&nbsp;14), with its famous wines, passing through <a href =
+"#pontigny">Pontigny</a> (p.&nbsp;16), where Thomas à Becket
+resided.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#verrey">Verrey</a> (p. 19) is a good station to alight at,
+to visit the source of the Seine.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+From <a href = "#dijon"><b>Dijon</b></a> (p. 20) southwards to <a href =
+"#chagny">Chagny</a> (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#chagny"><b>Chagny to Nevers</b></a> by Autun, Montchanin and
+Creusot. <a href = "#autun">Autun</a> (p.&nbsp;24) is one of the most
+ancient cities in France. At <a href = "#le_creusot">Creusot</a>
+(p.&nbsp;25) are very large ironworks.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<b><a href = "#macon">Macon</a> to <a href =
+"#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a></b> by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial
+(p.&nbsp;27) a&nbsp;nun called Alacoque is said to have had several
+interviews with J.&nbsp;C.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#lyons"><b>Lyons</b></a> (p. 29), though a splendid city,
+ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway
+junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is <a href =
+"turin.html#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains</a> (p.&nbsp;283). 76 miles
+S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is <a href =
+"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (p.&nbsp;324). Voiron is the station
+for the <a href = "turin.html#grande_chartreuse">Grande Chartreuse</a>
+(p.&nbsp;323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by <a href =
+"turin.html#montbrison">Montbrison</a> (p.&nbsp;349), is <a href =
+"turin.html#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (p.&nbsp;369). 89½
+miles S.W. by <a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a>
+(p.&nbsp;346) is <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (p.&nbsp;86). The rail
+from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to <a href =
+"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p.&nbsp;58) and <a href = "#arles">Arles</a>
+(p.&nbsp;68); and on the W. side to <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a>
+(p.&nbsp;101). See <a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#valence_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to
+Grenoble</span></a>, 62 miles N.E.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page44">44</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#valence_coaches"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to
+Ardèche</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page45">45</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#crest_to_montelimart"><span class = "smallcaps">Crest to
+Montelimart</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Crest to <a href = "#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a></b> by Saou and
+Bourdeaux
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#saou">Saou</a> is an ancient village curiously situated.
+<a href = "#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a> is separated from Dieulefit by a high
+mountain.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#crest_to_aspres"><b>Crest to Aspres</b></a>, 57 miles E.
+by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme
+(<a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page47">47</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#montelimart">Montelimart</a> to
+<a href = "#grignan">Grignan</a></span>, where Madame Sévigné died
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page49">49</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#la_croisiere">La Croisière</a> to <a href =
+"#nyons">Nyons</a></b>, 29½ miles E. (p.&nbsp;50). The climate of Nyons
+is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From
+Nyons another coach goes on to <a href = "#nyons_to_serres">Serres</a>,
+41 miles E. (p.&nbsp;51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble
+(<a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#sorgues"><b>Sorgues to Carpentras</b></a>, 10½ m. east
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page54">54</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#carpentras">Carpentras</a> makes excellent headquarters for
+visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others
+<a href = "#mont_ventoux">Mont Ventoux</a> (p.&nbsp;56) and <a href =
+"#vaison">Vaison</a> (p.&nbsp;53).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#avignon_to_nimes"><b>Avignon to Nîmes</b></a> by the
+famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#avignon_to_vaucluse"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to
+the Fontaine of Vaucluse</span></a>, where Petrarch lived for some time
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#avignon_to_manosque"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to
+Manosque</span></a> by Apt (<a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#cavaillon_to_miramas"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon
+to Miramas</span></a> by Cavaillon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a> to
+<a href = "#st_remy">St. Remy</a> and <a href = "#les_baux">Les
+Baux</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page67">67</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#arles_to_fontvieille"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to
+Fontvieille</span></a> by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman
+remains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page71">71</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_st_louis"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles
+to Port St. Louis</span></a> at the mouth of the Rhône
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_bouc"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to
+Port-Bouc</span></a>, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page76">76</a> and <a href =
+"#page72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to <a href =
+"#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes</a></span> by <a href = "#st_gilles">St.
+Gilles</a> and <a href = "#lunel">Lunel</a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lunel to <a href =
+"#montpellier">Montpellier</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page73">73</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#rognac">Rognac</a> to the aqueduct of Roquefavour</b>,
+which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page77">77</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rognac to the baths of <a href =
+"#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence</a>.</b> Aix has communication by
+rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page78">78</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">LYONS to NÎMES</a> by the west side of
+the Rhône</b> (<a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#peyraud"><span class = "smallcaps">Peyraud</span></a> by
+rail to <a href = "#annonay">Annonay</a>, and thence by coach to
+<a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> [pg. 354]
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a> to <a href =
+"#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a></b>, the chief diligence centre in the
+department of Ardèche (<a href = "#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#loire_source_road">The road to the source of the
+Loire</a> (<a href = "#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage</span></a> (<a href =
+"#map84">map, p.&nbsp;85</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_beage_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Béage to
+Le Puy</span></a> by Le Monastier (<a href = "#map46">map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page85">85</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to
+Langogne</span></a> by Pradelles (<a href = "#map46">map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page88">88</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langeac"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to
+Langeac</span></a> by St. Georges (<a href = "#map46">map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#darsac">Darsac</a> to <a href =
+"#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a></span> (<a href = "#map46">map, p.
+46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#chaise_dieu_to_vichy"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Chaise-Dieu to Thiers</span></a> by Arlanc and Ambert (<a
+href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page90">90</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#langeac">Langeac</a> to <a href
+= "#monistrol_to_saugues">Monistrol and to Saugues</a>.</span> Coach
+from Monistrol station to <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (<a href =
+"#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page91">91</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_pouzin"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Pouzin to
+Privas</span></a> (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page92">92</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_teil"><b>Teil to Alais</b></a>, 62 miles S.W. (<a href
+= "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page93">93</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the
+interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#aubenas_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to
+Langogne</span></a> by Mayres and Pradelles (<a href = "#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page94">94</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#prades_etc"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to
+Montpezat.</span></a> From Montpezat the <a href =
+"#loire_source">source of the Loire</a> (p.&nbsp;84) is visited
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page95">95</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#montpezat_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Montpezat
+to Le Puy</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#ruoms">Ruoms</a> to <a href =
+"#vallon_to_pont_darc">Vallon</a></span> and the fine natural bridge
+called the <a href = "#pont_darc">Pont d’Arc</a> (<a href =
+"#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>), approached also from <a href =
+"#pont_st_esprit">Pont-St. Esprit</a> (p.&nbsp;98)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#pont_avignon"><span class = "smallcaps">Pont
+d’Avignon</span></a>, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#remoulins"><span class = "smallcaps">Remoulins to the
+Pont-du-Gard</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#nimes_to_millau"><span class = "smallcaps">Nîmes To
+Millau</span></a> by Vigan (<a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page105">105</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part1_maps" id = "part1_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 1&ndash;106)</span></h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Ardèche</b>, general map of, including the northern part of the
+department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map46">46</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the
+Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,
+Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.</p>
+
+<p><b>Arles</b>, a town of great interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map68">68</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Avignon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map59">59</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Dijon</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map20">20</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, General plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map30">30</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Lyons</b>, Partial plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map33">33</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nîmes</b>, interesting Roman ruins
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map101">101</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Paris to Vichy, Macon</b>, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the
+S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,
+Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to
+the&nbsp;N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map1">1</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Rhône and Savoy</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map27">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the
+railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes
+between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+Map appears on page 27 in this section.</p>
+
+<p><b>The high volcanic peaks</b> in the department of Ardèche; among
+which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map84">84</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The Mouths of the Rhône</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map66">66</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this
+neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,
+Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
+the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see
+pp.&nbsp;77, 115, and 338). A&nbsp;little farther down the Durance is
+the commencement of the Craponne canal (<a href =
+"#map66">p.&nbsp;66</a>).</p>
+
+<p><b>The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance</b>, in which
+are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,
+Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map56">56</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Troyes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map12">12</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<!-- png 026 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &amp;c.<br>
+<a name = "map1" id = "map1" href = "images/map1.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map1thumb.png" width = "443" height = "327"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<div class = "itinerary">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">1</span>
+<a name = "page1" id = "page1"> </a>
+<!-- png 027 -->
+<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "to_riviera" id = "to_riviera">
+THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_menton" id =
+"paris_to_menton">
+Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692
+miles.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles" id =
+"paris_to_marseilles">
+PART I.&mdash;PARIS TO MARSEILLES.</a></h5>
+
+<h5><span class = "smallcaps">By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon</span>,
+537 miles.</h5>
+
+<p class = "summary">
+Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London
+to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of
+the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their
+London office.</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles to">537</span>
+<a name = "paris" id = "paris"><b>PARIS.</b></a> Start from the station
+of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where
+purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely
+trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of
+the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the
+H.&nbsp;de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H.&nbsp;Jules
+César.</p>
+
+<p><i>Maps.</i>&mdash;For the general route, consult <a href =
+"main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>; for the details as far as
+Macon, <a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>; and for the remainder of the
+journey, <a href = "#map27">map page 26</a>. The fare, third class, from
+London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast
+Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons
+Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the
+Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>,
+and arriving next day at 5.33 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>
+From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32
+<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>, and arrives at 10.13 <span class
+= "smallroman">A.M.</span> The third-class carriages between Paris and
+<span class = "pagenum">2</span>
+<a name = "page2" id = "page2"> </a>
+<!-- png 028 -->
+Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with
+warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the
+winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey,
+but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every
+break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the
+most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night.
+By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in
+18¼ hours for £4:13:6.</p>
+
+<p>The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the
+Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne,
+which here joins the Seine. <a name = "charenton" id =
+"charenton"><b>Charenton</b></a>, 4&nbsp;m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a
+large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. <a name
+= "st_maurice" id = "st_maurice"><b>St. Maurice</b></a>, pop. 4300, has
+in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for
+animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library,
+museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of
+grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the <a name =
+"maisons_dalfort" id = "maisons_dalfort"><b>Maisons-Alfort</b></a>, pop.
+8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some
+time.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Villeneuve St. George. Melun.</span></p>
+
+<p>9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of <a name =
+"villeneuve_george" id = "villeneuve_george"><b>Villeneuve St.
+George</b></a>, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères,
+a&nbsp;deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼&nbsp;m. farther
+is <a name = "montgeron" id = "montgeron"><b>Montgeron</b></a> on the
+Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor
+of Henri IV.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+On the other side of the river is the village of <b>Crosne</b>; where on
+the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas
+Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the
+first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his
+contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English
+literature.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+13¾ m. from Paris is <a name = "brunoy" id = "brunoy"><b>Brunoy</b></a>,
+pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of
+France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy.
+The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches
+104½ ft. high. 28&nbsp;m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of
+<a name = "melun" id = "melun"><b>MELUN</b></a>, pop. 12,000.
+<i>Inns:</i> Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near
+St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante.
+Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine,
+and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which
+here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names
+of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.
+Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway
+station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the
+left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the
+church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower
+over each transept, 10th cent. The large building
+<span class = "pagenum">3</span>
+<a name = "page3" id = "page3"> </a>
+<!-- png 029 -->
+behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the
+Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a&nbsp;small chapel. Off the
+main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St.
+Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed
+gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed
+square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short
+spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8
+windows with valuable old glass. A&nbsp;few yards off the main street is
+the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in
+the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514,
+“Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16<sup>me</sup>
+siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of
+ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome
+fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry
+St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,
+the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the
+north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent
+pears&mdash;some are very large. Hardly 4&nbsp;m. N.E. from Melun is the
+Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard.
+From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,
+where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">37</span>
+<span class = "miles to">500</span>
+<a name = "fontainebleau" id = "fontainebleau"><b>FONTAINEBLEAU</b></a>
+pop. 9200, about 2&nbsp;miles from the Seine, and one from the station;
+but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour
+du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front
+the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon;
+Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande,
+is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des
+Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H.&nbsp;de la Chancellerie.
+In the Rue de France, the H.&nbsp;de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are
+the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels
+facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13
+frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan
+is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the
+end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded
+with good shops&mdash;a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and
+photographs&mdash;souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a&nbsp;good
+confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had
+either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the
+train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the
+restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the
+Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Coach Tariff.</i>&mdash;The principal cab-stand is at the end of the
+Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the
+forest in the shop opposite.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the
+<span class = "pagenum">4</span>
+<a name = "page4" id = "page4"> </a>
+<!-- png 030 -->
+day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10
+frs. for the day.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following
+prices:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4&nbsp;frs. for
+the first hour, and 3&nbsp;frs. for each succeeding hour.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour
+3&nbsp;frs., and each succeeding hour 2&nbsp;frs. 25 c.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2&nbsp;frs. an
+hour.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a&nbsp;day.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Fontainebleau</b> deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but
+to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which
+cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000&nbsp;m. of roads
+and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by
+congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each
+bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.
+The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of
+the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval
+Blanc,” which court forms the <i>main entrance</i>. A&nbsp;small fee is
+expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not
+obligatory.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite,
+procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The
+“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a
+smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household,
+but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the
+Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in
+the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by
+Francis&nbsp;I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former
+edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri
+IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and
+gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the
+gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon&nbsp;I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis
+XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The <a name = "fontainebleau_entrance" id =
+"fontainebleau_entrance"><b>principal entrance</b></a> is at the west
+end by the Cour du <b>CHEVAL BLANC</b>, the largest of all the courts,
+measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because
+here Napoleon&nbsp;I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave,
+on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old
+Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw
+himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again
+in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine
+joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and
+his wretchedness.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the
+following abridged list should be read before entering.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has
+46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in
+the wall represents the height of Francis&nbsp;I. The first place
+entered is the <a name = "fontainebleau_chapelle" id =
+"fontainebleau_chapelle"><b>Chapelle de la Trinité</b></a>, built by
+Francis&nbsp;I. in 1529, and largely
+<span class = "pagenum">5</span>
+<a name = "page5" id = "page5"> </a>
+<!-- png 031 -->
+decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having
+remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were
+as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel.
+The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and
+here, in 1810, Napoleon&nbsp;III. was baptized. The paintings are by
+Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and
+Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by
+Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the
+altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G.&nbsp;Pilon. The
+magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre,
+are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G.&nbsp;Pilon.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Ascend staircase to the <a name = "fontainebleau_napoleon" id =
+"fontainebleau_napoleon"><b>APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON</b></a>. The first
+room is the Antichambre des <b>Huissiers</b> (ushers), painting by
+Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des <b>Secretaires</b>, paintings by Vanloo,
+Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers
+by Spraendonck, to the most charming <b>Salle des Bains</b>. The walls
+are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely
+colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the
+<b>Abdication Room</b>, containing the famous mahogany table, about a
+yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April
+1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. <b>Cabinet de
+Travail</b> (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob.
+Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. <b>Bedroom of
+Napoleon</b> I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung
+with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of
+cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from
+Pio VII. to Napoleon. <b>Salon de Famille</b> or Salle du Conseil; dates
+from François&nbsp;I. and <b>Henri IV.</b>, and made by Louis XV. his
+study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one
+piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the
+two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered
+with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV.
+Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV.,
+to which Napoleon&nbsp;I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of
+France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently
+gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of
+Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "fontainebleau_antoinette" id =
+"fontainebleau_antoinette"><b>APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE</b></a> and
+of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of
+the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases
+presented to Napoleon&nbsp;I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was
+fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not
+finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). <b>The Bedroom.</b> Occupied
+successively by Marie de <ins class = "correction"
+title = "spelling unchanged">Medicis</ins>, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette,
+Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The
+gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie
+Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage.
+<span class = "pagenum">6</span>
+<a name = "page6" id = "page6"> </a>
+<!-- png 032 -->
+Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by
+Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. <b>Salon de Musique.</b> Ceiling, Minerva
+and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in
+grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon,
+from which a door opens into the</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>GALERIE DE DIANE</b> or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling,
+divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing
+mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the
+sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on
+the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second
+daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room
+immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in
+parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on
+his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina,
+and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers
+thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown
+of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the
+ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all
+this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his
+might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried,
+near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1&nbsp;m. E. from the
+chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s
+chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The
+Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to
+spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in
+the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she
+replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been
+condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this
+coward.”</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with
+indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the
+goddess Diana.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by
+C.&nbsp;Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F.&nbsp;Desportes,
+1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not
+shown (see page&nbsp;8). The other leads into</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des
+Gardes.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "fontainebleau_francois" id = "fontainebleau_francois"><b>LES
+GRANDS APPARTEMENTS.</b></a> The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in
+gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des
+<b>Tapisseries</b> hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves
+of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress
+Eugenie. <b>Salon de François&nbsp;I.</b> Napoleon&nbsp;I. and Charles
+X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling.
+The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of
+chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets
+are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable
+Beauvais tapestry. <b>Salon de Louis XIII.</b> The small Venetian
+looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came
+to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de
+<span class = "pagenum">7</span>
+<a name = "page7" id = "page7"> </a>
+<!-- png 033 -->
+Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling
+and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which
+had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to
+Francis&nbsp;I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de <b>Saint
+Louis</b>. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV.
+by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of
+Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des <b>Gardes</b>, principally
+by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above
+the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis&nbsp;I., with the
+allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri&nbsp;II., with
+figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of <b>Henri
+IV.</b><ins class = "correction" title = ") missing">),</ins> with
+figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and
+Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful
+chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust
+of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by
+Francarville. A&nbsp;very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood,
+corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>ESCALIER DU ROI.</b> The top part of this staircase, built by Louis
+XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes,
+representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo
+dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>GALERIE DE HENRI II.</b>, or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent
+hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted
+on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other
+by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by
+François&nbsp;I., and decorated by Henri&nbsp;II. for his favourite
+Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt
+coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by
+Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments,
+elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly
+gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri&nbsp;II. and of Diana. The
+chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by
+Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the
+chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page&nbsp;8). We return
+now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I.</b>, parallel to the apartments of Napoleon,
+210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a
+communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.
+Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The
+frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a
+few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François&nbsp;I.
+From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES</b> et du Pape Pie VII. They were
+inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis
+XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also
+by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of
+Napoleon&nbsp;I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by
+Napoleon&nbsp;III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were
+expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest
+<span class = "pagenum">8</span>
+<a name = "page8" id = "page8"> </a>
+<!-- png 034 -->
+quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel,
+Mignard, and other French masters. <b>Antechamber.</b> Portrait of Diana
+de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best
+works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed
+leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. <b>Salles des
+Officers.</b> Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of
+Esther. <b>Salon.</b> Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins.
+Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into
+compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII.
+<b>The Old Bedroom</b> (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis
+XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very
+beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. <b>Study</b> of Pio
+VII.&mdash;portrait of him by David. Dressing-room&mdash;wardrobe of
+inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV.
+by Lemoyne, 1751. <b>New Bedroom</b>&mdash;bedstead of time of Louis
+XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. <b>Salon de
+Reception</b>&mdash;Gobelins tapestry&mdash;furniture of time of Louis
+XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. <b>Waiting-room</b> or Salle d’Attente.
+Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.
+<b>Antechamber.</b> 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.
+Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>GALERIE DES FRESQUES</b> or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this
+gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise
+Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and
+some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the
+walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and
+incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading
+to the</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>SALLE DE SPECTACLE</b> or theatre, built by Napoleon&nbsp;III., and
+seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of
+Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin.</span></p>
+
+<h5>LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.</h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "fontainebleau_saturnin" id =
+"fontainebleau_saturnin"><b>Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin</b></a>,
+built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by
+Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was
+manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836,
+daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius
+VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814.
+The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis&nbsp;I., upon
+which he built the <b>Upper Chapel</b>. It was ornamented with charming
+frescoes, in the reign of <b>Henri IV.</b>, about the year 1608.
+Napoleon&nbsp;III. commenced the restoration.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à
+Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same
+dimensions as the Galerie de Henri&nbsp;II. immediately over it. To the
+right is the old spiral staircase of Francis&nbsp;I.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the <b>Galerie de
+Diane</b>, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently
+executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see <a href =
+"#page6">p.&nbsp;6</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round
+<span class = "pagenum">9</span>
+<a name = "page9" id = "page9"> </a>
+<!-- png 035 -->
+with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by
+J.&nbsp;B. Oudry.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,
+saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than
+that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the
+revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties.
+The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St.
+Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri&nbsp;II. (see <a href =
+"#page7">p.&nbsp;7</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection
+of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.</p>
+
+
+<h5><a name = "fontainebleau_courts" id = "fontainebleau_courts">THE
+COURTS.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe
+staircase, leads through to the <b>Cour de la Fontaine</b>. In the side
+facing the lake is the Galerie de François&nbsp;I. Having passed through
+the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before
+us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left
+the <b>Porte Dorée</b>, one of the gates that opens into the <b>Cour
+Ovale</b>. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes
+on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects
+are mythological. Charles&nbsp;V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And
+by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven
+from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass
+the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses,
+faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is
+the device of Francis&nbsp;I., a&nbsp;salamander. The principal entrance
+to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected
+with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri
+IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery
+college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is
+grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "fontainebleau_drives" id =
+"fontainebleau_drives"><b>Excursions into the forest.</b></a> Those
+wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a
+copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the
+posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts
+lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the
+roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The
+following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6
+hours:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie&mdash;Point de vue du camp de
+Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle
+Vue&mdash;Barbison par le Bas Bréau&mdash;Gorges d’Apremont et
+Franchard.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle&mdash;Mont Ussy&mdash;Caverne
+d’Augas&mdash;Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet&mdash;Gorges
+et Rochers de la Solle&mdash;Rocher St. Germain&mdash;Bocages des
+Ecouettes&mdash;Fort l’Empereur&mdash;Calvaire&mdash;Roche Eponge et
+Point de vue de Nemorosa.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3. Rocher Bouligny&mdash;Rocher des Demoiselles&mdash;Gorge aux Loups
+<span class = "pagenum">10</span>
+<a name = "page10" id = "page10"> </a>
+<!-- png 036 -->
+et Mare aux Fées&mdash;Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix
+du Gd. Maitre.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole
+forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3&nbsp;m. N.W. from
+Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;The second
+contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest,
+such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but
+especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½&nbsp;m. N.&nbsp;The
+Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½&nbsp;m. S., leads to a very
+picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken,
+take the first, 3¼&nbsp;m. by rail from Fontainebleau.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After Fontainebleau is Thomery. <i>Inn</i>: Popardin, where the famous
+grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and
+trellis-work.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Moret. Jean Sans Peur.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">42</span>
+<span class = "miles to">495</span>
+<a name = "moret" id = "moret"><b>MORET</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inn</i>:
+Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of
+fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and
+Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally
+of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½&nbsp;m.
+farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the
+Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "montereau" id =
+"montereau"><b>Montereau-faut-Yonne</b></a>, pop. 7000; station about a
+mile from the town. <i>Inn</i>: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops,
+near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this
+junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town
+and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully
+ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the
+right of the high altar is the sword of <a name = "moret_jean_sans" id =
+"moret_jean_sans">Jean Sans Peur</a>. Beyond this church a fine stone
+bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne,
+which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian
+statue of Napoleon&nbsp;I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble
+slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On
+the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of
+Surville. Montereau has important potteries.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sens. Thomas À Becket.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">71</span>
+<span class = "miles to">466</span>
+<a name = "sens" id = "sens"><b>SENS</b></a> on the Yonne, pop. 12,400.
+<i>Inns</i>: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from
+north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards
+up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then
+the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of
+the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are
+spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable
+walks.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">11</span>
+<a name = "page11" id = "page11"> </a>
+<!-- png 037 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The <b>Cathedral of St. Etienne</b> was commenced in 972, but nearly
+rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty,
+is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry
+attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with
+massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed
+arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered
+colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured
+canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful
+relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop
+of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the
+mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G.&nbsp;Coustou, and
+statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel,
+<a name = "sens_becket" id = "sens_becket">Becket</a> used to officiate.
+The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination.
+He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1&nbsp;m. from the
+cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The
+transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second
+to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean
+Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble,
+stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old
+house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient
+evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory
+crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th
+century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is
+valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent
+de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining
+the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le
+Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1&nbsp;m. from the church, and
+to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings
+that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church.
+When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny,
+7&nbsp;m. S. from St. Florentin, <a href = "#st_florentin">page 16</a>,
+and 13&nbsp;m. N.E. from Auxerre, <a href = "#auxerre">page 14</a>.
+<b>Becket</b> was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict
+in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards.
+Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees
+from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was
+celebrated in his honour.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Troyes.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 039 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">12</span>
+<a name = "map12" id = "map12" href = "images/map12.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map12thumb.png" width = "465" height = "369"
+alt = "plan of Troyes"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is <a name = "troyes"
+id = "troyes"><b>TROYES</b></a>, pop. 39,000. <i>Hotels</i>: At the
+station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame,
+the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel
+des Couriers.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Troyes: Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
+canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
+machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which
+produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling.
+Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the
+most important is the <a name = "troyes_cathedral" id =
+"troyes_cathedral"><b>Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul</b></a>,
+situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on
+the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful
+<span class = "pagenum">12</span>
+<a name = "page12" id = "page12"> </a>
+<!-- png 038 -->
+in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the
+end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these
+intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th
+century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three
+hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising
+above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the
+transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave,
+separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row
+being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory,
+both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the
+roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the
+windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the
+western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble
+statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of
+the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th
+cent.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Troyes: Henry V.<br>
+Salle Simard.</span>
+Before the high altar in this church <a name = "troyes_henry_v" id =
+"troyes_henry_v">Henry&nbsp;V.</a> of England was affianced to the
+Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles&nbsp;VI. of France, on the 20th
+May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown
+of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the
+poor mad Charles&nbsp;VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in
+the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the
+oldest glass in the church. A&nbsp;stair to the right of the high altar
+leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the
+13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of
+the 12th century, a&nbsp;tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In
+the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
+St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A&nbsp;few
+yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
+<i>Library</i>, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS.,
+in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled
+panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St.
+Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the
+<b>Museum</b>, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel,
+Mignard, etc.; and the <a name = "simard" id = "simard"><i>Salle
+Simard</i></a>, containing a valuable collection of the <b>Models made
+by Simard</b> for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by
+Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public
+on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is
+expected. A&nbsp;short distance eastward from the cathedral is the
+Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the
+window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the
+16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic
+architecture, the church of <b>St. Urbain</b>, built by that Pope
+towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place
+where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was
+that of a cobbler. A&nbsp;short way N. is <b>St. Remi</b>, 14th century,
+with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St.
+Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>,
+built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished
+in
+<span class = "pagenum">13</span>
+<a name = "page13" id = "page13"> </a>
+<!-- png 040 -->
+1670. Beyond is <b>St. Jean</b>, 14th century. The high altar was
+sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord,
+forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel
+“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean,
+pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the
+first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division
+is <b>La Madeleine</b>, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable
+for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in
+1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period.
+The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
+architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from
+St. Jean is <b>St. Nicolas</b>, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To
+the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
+containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue
+of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on
+entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are
+beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel
+of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The
+glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles
+give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its
+continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.
+Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of
+the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and
+church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal,
+constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by
+Gentil.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we
+have adopted. A&nbsp;cab for four costs 3&nbsp;frs. per hour; and for
+two, 2&nbsp;frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Troy Weight.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The weight known by the name of the <a name = "troy_weight" id =
+"troy_weight">Troy weight</a> was brought from Cairo during the time of
+the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the
+headquarters of Napoleon&nbsp;I. during his struggles in 1814.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">79</span>
+<span class = "miles to">458</span>
+<a name = "villeneuve_yonne" id = "villeneuve_yonne"><span class =
+"smallcaps">VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne</span></a>, pop. 5100. <i>Hotel</i>:
+Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer”
+spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (<a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page158">p.&nbsp;158</a>). Villeneuve is joined to
+its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5&nbsp;m. beyond, or
+84&nbsp;m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. <i>Hotel</i>:
+Des Bons Enfants. A&nbsp;poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but
+possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as
+well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the
+remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town,
+and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to
+the 13th cent.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">14</span>
+<a name = "page14" id = "page14"> </a>
+<!-- png 041 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">91</span>
+<span class = "miles to">446</span>
+<a name = "joigny" id = "joigny"><b>JOIGNY</b></a>, pop. 7000. A good
+resting-place. <i>Hotels</i>: The Poste, between the station and the
+bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne,
+which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town
+occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St.
+André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St.
+Thibault, 15th cent.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">96</span>
+<span class = "miles to">441</span>
+<a name = "la_roche" id = "la_roche"><b>LA ROCHE</b></a>, on the Canal
+de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large
+refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½&nbsp;m.
+southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon,
+and Semur. (See <a href = "#map1">map on p.&nbsp;1</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Auxerre.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_roche_to_les_laumes" id =
+"la_roche_to_les_laumes">
+LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+12½ m. S. from La Roche is <a name = "auxerre" id =
+"auxerre"><b>Auxerre</b></a>, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill
+rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most
+prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the
+left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock
+Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, <b>St. Etienne</b>, was
+rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the
+western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are
+crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and
+of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the
+vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high.
+The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.
+transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.
+Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the
+13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St.
+Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the
+17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower,
+173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and
+finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th
+cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the
+capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around
+the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is
+a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and
+Chablis. (For Pontigny, see <a href = "#pontigny">page 16</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+13 miles east from Auxerre is <a name = "chablis" id =
+"chablis"><b>Chablis</b></a>, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein.
+The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white
+wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir,
+Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the
+vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty
+flavour.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "cravant" id = "cravant"><b>Cravant</b></a>, pop. 1000,
+<i>Inn</i>: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the
+station, owing its importance to its position at
+<span class = "pagenum">15</span>
+<a name = "page15" id = "page15"> </a>
+<!-- png 042 -->
+the junction of the branch to <a name = "clamecy_2" id =
+"clamecy_2">Clamecy</a>, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56
+miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles
+from Paris by La Roche. (See <a href = "#map1">map, page 1</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sermizelles. Vezelay.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les
+Laumes is <a name = "sermizelles" id =
+"sermizelles"><b>Sermizelles</b></a>, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles
+distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the
+station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a
+private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont
+Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2&nbsp;miles distant, and St. Pêre; then
+back to Sermizelles Station. See also <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#page354">p.&nbsp;354</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vezelay" id = "vezelay"><b>Vezelay</b></a>, pop. 1300.
+<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of
+a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France,
+the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex
+belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the
+choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is
+404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and
+supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of
+the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with
+four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured
+mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the
+triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which
+adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity,
+and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door
+between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are
+lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on
+forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached
+columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period.
+A&nbsp;triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular
+columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the
+sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was
+formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister
+is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in
+the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St.
+Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The
+Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications,
+still remain.
+<a name = "vez_becket" id = "vez_becket">
+<span class = "headnote float">Becket.</span></a>
+Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166;
+when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he
+pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and
+others, and would have included Henri&nbsp;II. himself, had he not been
+informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in
+1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under
+Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the
+birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the
+Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of
+the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5&nbsp;m. from
+St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">16</span>
+<a name = "page16" id = "page16"> </a>
+<!-- png 043 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is <a name = "avallon" id =
+"avallon"><b>Avallon</b></a>, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. <i>Hotels:</i>
+Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a
+beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture.
+Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant,
+pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St.
+Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best
+keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from
+Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent
+down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Semur.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and
+then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is <a name =
+"semur" id = "semur"><b>Semur</b></a>, pop. 4150. <i>Hotels:</i> Côte
+d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile
+from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by
+Robert&nbsp;I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and
+repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The
+windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are
+portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a
+beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each
+transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and
+about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain.
+12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at <a href =
+"#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and
+<a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Saint Florentin.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">107½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">429½</span>
+<a name = "st_florentin" id = "st_florentin"><b>SAINT FLORENTIN</b></a>,
+pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H.&nbsp;de la Gare. In town,
+H.&nbsp;Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
+starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
+Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
+separates from the Chablis road.</p>
+
+<p>Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station.
+The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The
+windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.
+The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes
+standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful
+rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a
+relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection
+of Jesus Christ.</p>
+
+<p>At <a name = "pontigny" id = "pontigny"><b>Pontigny</b></a> there is
+a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the
+shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From
+Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13&nbsp;m. S.W.,
+stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of
+Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and
+round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and
+imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72&nbsp;ft.
+<span class = "pagenum">17</span>
+<a name = "page17" id = "page17"> </a>
+<!-- png 044 -->
+wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty
+massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave.
+A&nbsp;row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below
+the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th
+cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of
+Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The
+original shrine, a&nbsp;plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the
+cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly
+screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of
+the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish
+church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still
+remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is
+the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole.
+Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and
+others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery.
+The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes
+in the life of St. Edmund.</p>
+
+<p>Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and
+remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from
+Vezelay to Sens.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tonnerre.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">123</span>
+<span class = "miles to">414</span>
+<a name = "tonnerre" id = "tonnerre"><b>TONNERRE</b></a>, pop. 6000, on
+the Armançon. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Courriers&mdash;both near each
+other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past
+the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the
+church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the
+foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular
+basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a
+dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A&nbsp;straight
+street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built
+in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in
+1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a
+beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308).
+To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The
+arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tanlay.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">127½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">409½</span>
+<a name = "tanlay" id = "tanlay"><b>TANLAY</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the
+Armançon. A&nbsp;small village with a handsome castle in an extensive
+park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520,
+but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559.
+The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet
+by 36. In a
+<span class = "pagenum">18</span>
+<a name = "page18" id = "page18"> </a>
+<!-- png 045 -->
+room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the
+Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny.
+A&nbsp;fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods
+of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the
+political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is
+portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round
+the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating
+with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces
+is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the
+abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent.
+At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour
+45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">136</span>
+<span class = "miles to">401</span>
+<a name = "ancy_le_franc" id = "ancy_le_franc"><b>ANCY-LE-FRANC</b></a>,
+pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built
+according to the plans of Primaticcio.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">142</span>
+<span class = "miles to">395</span>
+<a name = "nuits_sous_ravieres" id =
+"nuits_sous_ravieres"><b>NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES</b></a>, pop. 700.
+Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see <a href
+= "#troyes">page 11</a>), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to
+Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the
+environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort,
+17th and 18th cents.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">151</span>
+<span class = "miles to">386</span>
+<a name = "montbard" id = "montbard"><b>MONTBARD</b></a>, pop. 3000, on
+the Canal de Bourgogne. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. <a name =
+"buffon" id = "buffon">Buffon</a>, the celebrated naturalist, was born
+in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château,
+a&nbsp;plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main
+street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid
+out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square
+house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in
+the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his
+manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the
+dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small
+column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the
+tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that
+monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the
+parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A&nbsp;black stone slab
+over the door bears the following inscription:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class = "center"><span class = "smallcaps">Buffon</span><br>
+A été inhumé dans le<br>
+Caveau de cette chapelle<br>
+Le 20 Avril 1788.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">19</span>
+<a name = "page19" id = "page19"> </a>
+<!-- png 046 -->
+
+<p>There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is
+the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">160</span>
+<span class = "miles to">377</span>
+<a name = "les_laumes" id = "les_laumes"><b>LES LAUMES.</b></a>
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois,
+1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the
+station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, <span class =
+"smallroman">B.C.</span> 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix,
+whose statue by Millet, pedestal by&nbsp;V. le Duc, stands just above
+the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious
+sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles
+from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84
+acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of
+Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of
+portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See
+page&nbsp;14.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">165</span>
+<span class = "miles to">372</span>
+<a name = "darcey" id = "darcey"><b>DARCEY</b></a>, pop. 850, 2 miles
+from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high.
+<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a
+subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for
+<a name = "flavigny" id = "flavigny"><b>Flavigny</b></a>, 1½ mile distant,
+pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old
+walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th,
+14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "seine_source" id = "seine_source">
+<span class = "headnote">Source of the Seine.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">171¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">365¾</span>
+<a name = "verrey" id = "verrey"><b>VERREY</b></a>, pop. 900.
+<i>Inns:</i> Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the <b>Source of
+the Seine</b>, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods,
+but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village
+of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec,
+pop. 700, 5&nbsp;miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse
+Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow
+the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone,
+where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse
+Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above
+the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden
+enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny
+infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of
+the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5&nbsp;frs.
+It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by
+the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5&nbsp;miles south, pop.
+1000. <i>Inns:</i> Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.
+A&nbsp;diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St.
+Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½&nbsp;m. distant.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">20</span>
+<a name = "page20" id = "page20"> </a>
+<!-- png 047 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">179</span>
+<span class = "miles to">358</span>
+<a name = "blaizy_bas" id = "blaizy_bas"><b>BLAIZY-BAS</b></a>, situated
+at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the
+Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above
+the sea.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">190</span>
+<span class = "miles to">347</span>
+<a name = "velars" id = "velars"><b>VELARS</b></a>, pop. 1400. After the
+preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station,
+Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The
+viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet
+long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the
+branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see
+page&nbsp;24.)</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<!-- png 048 -->
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon" id = "dijon">
+Dijon</a></span>
+
+<h4 class = "extended">DIJON</h4>
+
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 20</span>
+<a name = "map20" id = "map20" href = "images/map20.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map20thumb.png" width = "436" height = "478"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<span class = "firstword">The</span> principal street is the Rue
+Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the
+Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard.
+No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue
+Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy,
+containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3
+is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre.
+Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near
+the station (No.&nbsp;8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty
+needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">196</span>
+<span class = "miles to">341</span>
+<b>DIJON</b>, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station.
+<i>Hotels:</i> La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the
+station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the
+Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous
+for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.</p>
+
+<p>Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding
+hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.
+Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce,
+82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent
+road leads to the source of the Seine, 5&nbsp;m. distant. (See
+page&nbsp;19.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Dijon: Salle des Gardes. Museums.</span></p>
+
+<p>The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which
+was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le
+Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de
+Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the
+ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by
+323 steps, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest
+is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the
+École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum
+is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on
+Sundays. Other days a fee of 1&nbsp;fr. is expected. In the <a name =
+"dijon_gardes" id = "dijon_gardes"><b>Salle des Gardes</b></a> are the
+magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son
+Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the
+two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white
+marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty
+statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the
+articles which belonged to them in this room are three
+beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;
+and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and
+the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died
+1098.
+<span class = "pagenum">21</span>
+<a name = "page21" id = "page21"> </a>
+<!-- png 049 -->
+The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues
+of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in
+reality 6&nbsp;feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice
+paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered
+one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the
+kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting
+the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a
+kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges.
+Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the
+British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral
+staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a&nbsp;statue 4&nbsp;feet 6 inches
+in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or
+serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,
+like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the
+roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine
+Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54
+of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double
+arch seen in the Hotel de Ville.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_notre_dame" id =
+"dijon_notre_dame">
+Dijon: Notre Dame.<br>
+St. Benigne.</a></span>
+Close to the Rue des Forges is <b>Notre Dame</b>, consecrated in 1331,
+a&nbsp;very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian
+architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance
+style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des
+Cariatides. A&nbsp;short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville
+is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of
+Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is of massive carved
+chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At
+the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which
+belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne,
+founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the
+corn-market. At the end of this same street, R.&nbsp;Vaillan, is St.
+Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing
+at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards
+the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains
+of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a
+wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091)
+at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church,
+2&nbsp;miles N.W. by the road of that name. Towards the right is <a name
+= "dijon_benigne" id = "dijon_benigne"><b>St. Benigne</b></a>, easily
+recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet
+high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the
+porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south
+aisle is the
+<span class = "pagenum">22</span>
+<a name = "page22" id = "page22"> </a>
+<!-- png 050 -->
+slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful
+mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery
+chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is
+St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed
+spire. It is now used as an artillery store.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_st_jean" id =
+"dijon_st_jean">
+Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet.<br>
+Asile des Aliénés.</a></span>
+From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,
+founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in
+1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery
+of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without
+merit.
+<a name = "dijon_bossuet" id = "dijon_bossuet">Bossuet</a> was baptised
+in this church, and born in No. 10 of this “Place,” 27th September 1627.
+Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest
+is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of
+our Charles&nbsp;I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St.
+Anne, 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into
+the <a name = "dijon_alienes" id = "dijon_alienes"><b>Asile des
+Aliénés</b></a>, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi
+in 1379. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are
+the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied
+by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the
+beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next
+taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter,
+consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one
+of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the
+ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the
+least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house
+contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers,
+but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and
+Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its
+charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number
+of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau
+d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens.
+Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old.
+The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue
+Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards
+long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel
+to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or,
+extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet.
+Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and
+sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and
+Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from
+Meursault follow the
+<span class = "pagenum">23</span>
+<a name = "page23" id = "page23"> </a>
+<!-- png 051 -->
+Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten
+years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gevrey-Chambertin.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">203</span>
+<span class = "miles to">334</span>
+<a name = "gevrey_chambertin" id =
+"gevrey_chambertin"><b>GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN</b></a>, 1¼ mile from station,
+pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are
+the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in
+the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">206¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">330¾</span>
+<a name = "vougeot" id = "vougeot"><b>VOUGEOT</b></a>, on the Vouge,
+pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. <i>Inn:</i> Groffier. Here there are
+above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the
+most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti,
+Richebourg, and La Tache.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">209½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">327½</span>
+<a name = "nuits" id = "nuits"><b>NUITS</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inn:</i>
+Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the
+St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate
+and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th
+cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8&nbsp;miles from Nuits is the abbey
+of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who
+are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by
+Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of
+the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to
+assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was
+rebuilt in 1798.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Beaune.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">219</span>
+<span class = "miles to">318</span>
+<a name = "beaune" id = "beaune"><b>BEAUNE</b></a>, pop. 12,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is
+the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as
+Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class
+vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay
+vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine,
+under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under
+that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church,
+Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and
+equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals.</p>
+
+<p>In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to
+Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in
+1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic
+School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the
+15th cent.&mdash;a curious and interesting building. The Salle de
+Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a
+painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden.
+<span class = "pagenum">24</span>
+<a name = "page24" id = "page24"> </a>
+<!-- png 052 -->
+Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the
+neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St.
+Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Meursault.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">223½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">313½</span>
+<a name = "meursault" id = "meursault"><b>MEURSAULT</b></a>, pop. 3000,
+1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most
+distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d’Or,
+a&nbsp;golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a&nbsp;dry white wine of
+a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the
+delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">228</span>
+<span class = "miles to">309</span>
+<a name = "chagny" id = "chagny"><b>CHAGNY</b></a>, pop. 4200.
+<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102&nbsp;m. W.,
+passing Nolay 5&nbsp;m. W., Autun 26&nbsp;m. W., Montchanin 18&nbsp;m.
+W., and Le Creusot 22&nbsp;m. W. (see <a href = "#le_creusot">page
+25</a>, and <a href = "#map1">map page&nbsp;1</a>). From Chagny
+southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around
+Chagny produce a first-class quality.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Nolay, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards
+in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A&nbsp;few miles
+distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a
+deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼&nbsp;m. E. are the ruins of
+the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a
+remarkable echo. 8&nbsp;m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal
+mines.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Autun.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+26 m. W. from Chagny is <a name = "autun" id = "autun"><b>Autun</b></a>,
+pop. 13,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town,
+the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built
+before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two
+Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to
+Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent
+public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum,
+modernised into Autun. Napoleon&nbsp;III., in his “History of Cæsar,”
+considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount
+Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements,
+fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been
+discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and
+8&nbsp;feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with
+four large gates, of which two&mdash;the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high,
+and the Porte St. André, lately restored&mdash;still remain. The Porte
+d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a&nbsp;plain square tower) are behind
+the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient
+church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The
+<b>Cathedral</b>, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178.
+The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient
+is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic
+spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The
+entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and
+columns. From the Porte St.
+<span class = "pagenum">25</span>
+<a name = "page25" id = "page25"> </a>
+<!-- png 053 -->
+Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a&nbsp;cross road leads to the
+Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a&nbsp;pyramidal monument of great
+antiquity.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the
+Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789
+Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montchanin. Le Creusot.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18&nbsp;m. W. from Chagny,
+is <a name = "montchanin" id = "montchanin"><b>Montchanin</b></a>, pop.
+2500. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The
+town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of
+the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large
+artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud,
+the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the
+Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26&nbsp;m. W. from
+Chagny, is <a name = "le_creusot" id = "le_creusot"><b>Le
+Creusot</b></a>, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the
+ironworks. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the
+principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le
+Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which
+enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the
+coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them
+from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling
+suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature
+is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and
+cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests,
+policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is
+a statue by H.&nbsp;Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the
+workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is
+imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner
+of powerful machinery, there is no noise.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is <a name = "etang" id
+= "etang"><b>Etang</b></a>, with an ancient castle. 51½&nbsp;m. E. from
+Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Delaigue,
+close to station. Coach 12&nbsp;m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with
+alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33&nbsp;m. E. from Nevers is
+Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53&nbsp;m. south from Clamecy by the rail,
+skirting the Canal Nivernais. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la Croix, close to
+station. 23½&nbsp;m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. <i>Inns:</i>
+Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the
+Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which
+commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church
+has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent.,
+containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and
+coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">26</span>
+<a name = "page26" id = "page26"> </a>
+<!-- png 054 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chalon-sur-Saône.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">235</span>
+<span class = "miles to">302</span>
+<a name = "chalon_sur_saone" id = "chalon_sur_saone"><b><span class =
+"smallcaps">CHALON-sur-saône</span></b></a>, pop. 21,000. <i>Hotels:</i>
+at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois
+Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on
+an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre,
+both lined with good quays. The chief structures are&mdash;St. Vincent,
+a&nbsp;Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying
+the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty
+steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two
+stations&mdash;one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the
+express trains halt. 2&nbsp;miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where
+Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has
+disappeared. A&nbsp;few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with
+first-class vineyards. Rail to</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">243</span>
+<span class = "miles to">294</span>
+<a name = "varennes" id = "varennes"><b>VARENNES</b></a>. South from
+this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">254</span>
+<span class = "miles to">283</span>
+<a name = "tournus" id = "tournus"><b>TOURNUS</b></a>, on the Saône,
+pop. 6200. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the
+Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de
+Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868.
+Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings
+of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725.
+The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of
+which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th
+cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was
+founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de
+Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines.</p>
+
+<!-- png 055 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 27</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">the RHONE &amp; SAVOY<br>
+with the passes from<br>
+FRANCE INTO ITALY</span><br>
+<a name = "map27" id = "map27" href = "images/map27.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map27thumb.png" width = "439" height = "327"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Macon.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">274</span>
+<span class = "miles to">263</span>
+<a name = "macon" id = "macon"><b>MACON</b></a>, pop. 20,000. At
+station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg,
+41&nbsp;m. E. <i>Hotels.</i>&mdash;Near the station, H. Étrangers. In
+town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the
+steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons,
+Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs
+Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an
+inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays
+which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12
+arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of
+the river. The oldest edifice is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Vincent,
+built in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque,
+and the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the
+Episcopal palace. In this neighbourhood,
+<span class = "pagenum">27</span>
+<a name = "page27" id = "page27"> </a>
+<!-- png 056 -->
+at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a
+black marble slab over the door are the words:&mdash;Ici est né
+Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790.</p>
+
+<p>In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station,
+the beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque
+style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.</p>
+
+<p>From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to
+Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line
+extends to Geneva 74&nbsp;m. E., by Bourg 13½&nbsp;m. E., Nantua and
+Bellegards 39¾&nbsp;m. E. (See Black’s <i>France</i>, North Half, and
+<a href = "#map1">map page&nbsp;1</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cluny. Paray-le-Monial.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "cluny" id = "cluny"><b>Cluny</b></a>, pop. 5000. In the
+valley of the Grosne. <i>Hotels:</i> Bourgogne; Pavilions&mdash;both
+near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in
+the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now
+used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone
+remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the
+Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty
+niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent.,
+with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors.
+At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the
+first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;
+entrance, ½-franc each.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is <a name =
+"paray_le_monial" id = "paray_le_monial"><b>Paray-le-Monial</b></a>,
+pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. <i>Inns:</i> The Poste, the best; across
+the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the
+Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the
+Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H.&nbsp;des Pelerins. The Palais de
+Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built
+in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to it,
+occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish
+church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent.
+Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs,
+llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal
+tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From
+the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached
+columns.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marguerite" id = "marguerite">
+<span class = "headnote added">Marguerite.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up
+to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and
+established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the
+monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their
+chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854.
+To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this
+building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with
+J.&nbsp;C. In the interior the walls and roof are
+<span class = "pagenum">28</span>
+<a name = "page28" id = "page28"> </a>
+<!-- png 057 -->
+painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so
+hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of
+them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J.&nbsp;C. and 3
+angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J.&nbsp;C., with flowing yellow hair
+and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red
+and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds
+her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her.
+To the left of entrance the pictures are&mdash;1st, a&nbsp;Vision; 2d,
+Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of
+Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J.&nbsp;C. and Marguerite. The
+picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when
+J.&nbsp;C. is said to have declared to Margaret: “I&nbsp;have chosen and
+sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for
+ever.” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied
+by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders
+of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the
+special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship
+there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of
+J.&nbsp;C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing
+one of the above incidents.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the
+habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a
+coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with
+rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. long.
+On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at
+other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of
+one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d
+July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent
+of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on
+the 6th November 1672. On the day when J.&nbsp;C. told her she had been
+chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with
+a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at
+first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship
+of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675,
+when the R.&nbsp;P. de la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit
+establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she
+said: “I&nbsp;shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour
+commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by
+Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N.&nbsp;D. de
+Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray
+there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône,
+whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use <a href =
+"#map27">map on page 26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Romaneche. Belleville.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">283</span>
+<span class = "miles to">254</span>
+<a name = "romaneche" id = "romaneche"><b>ROMANECHE</b></a>, pop. 3000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant
+flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should be drunk in the
+second year from the vintage.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">29</span>
+<a name = "page29" id = "page29"> </a>
+<!-- png 058 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">288½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">248½</span>
+<a name = "belleville" id = "belleville"><b>BELLEVILLE</b></a>, pop.
+4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the next Belleville,
+1¼&nbsp;m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, the
+H.&nbsp;Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small
+round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in
+those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small
+circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the
+Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10&nbsp;m. W. to
+Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious
+houses. (Map, page&nbsp;26.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">297</span>
+<span class = "miles to">240</span>
+<a name = "villefranche_saone" id = "villefranche_saone"><span class =
+"smallcaps"><b>VILLEFRANCHE-sur-saône</b></span></a>, pop. 12,600, on
+the river Morgan, near the Saône. <i>Hotels:</i> Provence; Europe.
+Containing important linen manufactories, and vineyards producing a good
+white wine. The parish church, N.&nbsp;D. des Marais, was commenced in
+the 14th cent. 5½&nbsp;m. S. is Trévoux station, 1½&nbsp;m. from the
+town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the Saône. <i>Inns:</i> Terrasse;
+France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in this town the <i>Journal de
+Trévoux</i> in 1701, and the <i>Dictionnaire de Trévoux</i> in 1704.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">306</span>
+<span class = "miles to">231</span>
+<a name = "st_germain_mont_dor" id = "st_germain_mont_dor"><span class =
+"smallcaps"><b>ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or</b></span></a>, junction with
+line from Paris to Lyons, by Roanne and Tarare.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 060 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">30</span>
+[West]<br>
+<a name = "map30" id = "map30" href = "images/map30.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map30thumb.png" width = "422" height = "213"
+alt = "plan of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a><br>
+[East]
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">318</span>
+<span class = "miles to">219</span>
+<a name = "lyons" id = "lyons"><b>LYONS</b></a>, pop. 343,000. The
+Perrache railway station is 218&nbsp;m. from Paris, 219&nbsp;m. from
+Marseilles, 78&nbsp;m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½&nbsp;m. from Bourg,
+104&nbsp;m. from Geneva, 36&nbsp;m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,
+100 from Vichy, and 214&nbsp;m. from Turin.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_hotels" id = "lyons_hotels"><i>Hotels
+(first-class).</i></a>&mdash;H.&nbsp;de l’Europe, admirably situated,
+with one side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the
+Place Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de
+la République are the H.&nbsp;Collet and the H.&nbsp;de Lyon.
+H.&nbsp;Bellecour in the Place Bellecour. H.&nbsp;des Beaux Arts in the
+R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also well situated. In the Place Perrache, below
+the station, are the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du
+Parc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Less expensive Hotels.</i>&mdash;The H.&nbsp;du Globe; and the
+Havre et du Luxemburg&mdash;both near the Place Bellecour. Near the
+Place des Terreaux in the R.&nbsp;Platière, the H.&nbsp;de Paris et du
+Nord. Near the Bourse, the H.&nbsp;des Négociants, a&nbsp;large house
+frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the Négociants, at No. 47 Rue
+de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H.&nbsp;Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers, Place de
+la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8&nbsp;frs., in the
+Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the
+theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General Hospital, the
+H.&nbsp;Bourne. A&nbsp;great
+<span class = "pagenum">30</span>
+<a name = "page30" id = "page30"> </a>
+<!-- png 059 -->
+many diligences start from this neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4
+Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of
+the cheapest. Among the best cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the
+Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la
+République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English
+newspapers. In Lyons the term Comptoir is applied to bars where wines,
+cordials, and brandies are sold.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_post" id = "lyons_post"><i>Post
+Office.</i></a>&mdash;Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at
+the south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade
+of the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.</p>
+
+<p><i>Telegraph.</i>&mdash;Head office, No. 53 Place de la République.
+Branch offices&mdash;Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38
+Cours Morand.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Railway Stations. Cab Fares.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_stations" id = "lyons_stations"><i>Railway
+Stations.</i></a>&mdash;The great and central station is the <b>Gare de
+Perrache</b>, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and
+the Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on
+the railway to Bourg. The <b>Bourg or Satonay</b> railway station is at
+the top of the Rue Terme, a&nbsp;street commencing near the N.E. corner
+of the Place des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the
+hill by a rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per
+100, and the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de
+la Croix Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway
+carriages. The rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a
+convenient way of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The
+Dombes or <b>St. Paul’s</b> railway station is for Montbrison,
+40&nbsp;m. S.W. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the
+Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the
+Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams.</p>
+
+<h6 class = "extended"><a name = "lyons_cabs" id = "lyons_cabs">CAB
+FARES</a></h6>
+
+<table class = "grid">
+<tr class = "box">
+<td colspan = "2" rowspan = "2">KIND OF CAB.</td>
+<td colspan = "3">
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+DE 7 H.&nbsp;DU MATIN<br>
+a minuit.</span></td>
+<td colspan = "2">
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+DE MINUIT<br>
+a 7 H.&nbsp;du mat.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "box">
+<!-- <td></td> -->
+<!-- <td></td> -->
+<td>LA course.</td>
+<td>LA 1<sup>re</sup> heure.</td>
+<td>LES H.&nbsp;suiv.</td>
+<td>LA course.</td>
+<td>l’heure.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "topline sideline">
+<td colspan = "2">A 2 places (coupés)</td>
+<td>1 25</td>
+<td>1 50</td>
+<td>1 25</td>
+<td>1 65</td>
+<td>2 50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "2">A 4 places (berlines)</td>
+<td>1 50</td>
+<td>2</td>
+<td>1 50</td>
+<td>2</td>
+<td>3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "bottomline">
+<td class = "bracket">Voitures découvertes</td>
+<td class = "rightline">à&nbsp;2&nbsp;places<br>
+à 4 places</td>
+<td class = "sideline">1 75<br>
+2</td>
+<td class = "sideline">2<br>
+2 50</td>
+<td class = "sideline">1 75<br>
+2</td>
+<td class = "sideline">2 15<br>
+2 50</td>
+<td class = "sideline">3<br>
+3 50</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs
+with 2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations
+the omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">31</span>
+<a name = "page31" id = "page31"> </a>
+<!-- png 061 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Tramways. Theatres. Steamers.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_tramways" id =
+"lyons_tramways"><i>Tramways.</i></a>&mdash;The fares are moderate, and
+most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal
+parts of the town is the large roomy car running between the Perrache
+railway station and the Brotteaux railway station, passing through the
+P.&nbsp;Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P.&nbsp;Bellecour, R. and
+P. de la République between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre,
+across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the
+Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus the road by the
+side of the fort “des Charpennes” leads in 5 minutes into the <a href =
+"#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a> (see page 40), which having
+visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 minutes, or by
+the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of
+the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most
+important places to visit on the return journey are the <a href =
+"#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a> (page 35), and the <a href =
+"#lyons_silk_museum">silk museum in the Bourse</a> (page 38). Tram
+between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare
+outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out
+at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼&nbsp;m. from Lyons,
+pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_theatres" id =
+"lyons_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>&mdash;The <b>Grand Théâtre</b>,
+between the Hôtel de Ville and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls,
+6&nbsp;frs. The <b>Théâtre des Célestins</b>, between the Rue St.
+Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6&nbsp;frs.; stalls, 4&nbsp;frs.
+<b>Théâtre Bellecour</b>, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new
+theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for
+3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls
+cost 7&nbsp;frs. each; for a play, 4&nbsp;frs. There are also the
+Théâtre des Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St.
+Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_steamers" id = "lyons_steamers"><i>Steamers on the
+Saône</i></a> (Les Guèpes).&mdash;Sail between the Quai St. Antoine (to
+the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In
+summer 5 departures daily.</p>
+
+<p>Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place
+Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on
+the Quai de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the
+Pont du Port another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling
+likewise at numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire,
+and between them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.</p>
+
+<p>The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St.
+Claire on the <b>Rhône and Aix-les-Bains</b> on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
+<span class = "pagenum">32</span>
+<a name = "page32" id = "page32"> </a>
+<!-- png 062 -->
+Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon,
+calling at the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing
+and shipping of cargo.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Sights.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_sights" id =
+"lyons_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>&mdash;Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see
+below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place
+Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, <a href = "#page31">page
+31</a>. The <a href = "#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a>, page 40.
+The galleries in the <a href = "#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a>,
+page 35. The <a href = "#lyons_silk_museum">museum of silk
+manufacture</a>, page&nbsp;38.</p>
+
+<p>Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest
+rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach
+each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part
+of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,
+the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the
+R.&nbsp;Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful
+squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place
+Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In
+the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon&nbsp;I. by Nieuwerkerke,
+which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the
+municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour
+(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with
+trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,
+which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in
+1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two
+squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,
+during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,
+on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings
+pierced by an arcade decorated by P.&nbsp;Delorme and Maupin (see
+page&nbsp;37).</p>
+
+<p>The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of
+substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24
+miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux
+Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind
+the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short
+sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient,
+page&nbsp;31.</p>
+
+<!-- png 063 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 33</span>
+<a name = "map33" id = "map33" href = "images/map33.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map33thumb.png" width = "337" height = "547"
+alt = "larger map of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway.</span></p>
+
+<p>The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of <a name =
+"lyons_notre_dame" id =
+"lyons_notre_dame"><b>Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière</b></a>, standing on the
+site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere;
+whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be
+visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything
+else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained
+from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of
+<b>Tilsitt</b> across the Saône, at the upper side of
+<span class = "pagenum">33</span>
+<a name = "page33" id = "page33"> </a>
+<!-- png 064 -->
+the “Place,” is the <a name = "lyons_rope_railway" id =
+"lyons_rope_railway">rope railway</a>, which ascends through tunnels the
+hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the
+way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by
+the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a
+large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to
+the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has
+accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman
+palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this
+hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière,
+lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the
+pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,
+medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and
+hotels.</p>
+
+<p>On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône,
+is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from
+which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high.
+This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb
+view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are
+immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont
+Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church
+below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.
+The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,
+which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.
+It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object
+in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an
+octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the
+four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three
+large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top
+of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff
+sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the
+neighbourhood are convents.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Lyons: Observatoire Gay.<br>
+St. Paul.</span>
+A&nbsp;little eastward is the “<a name = "lyons_observatoire_gay" id =
+"lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay</a>,” from which a steep path,
+the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city,
+reaching it by the side of the station of the <a href =
+"#lyons_stations">Chemin de Fer des Dombes</a> (page 30). Near this
+station is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_paul" id =
+"lyons_st_paul"><b>St. Paul</b></a>, all modern excepting the beautiful
+N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches,
+a&nbsp;few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the
+original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the
+early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the
+stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St.
+Vincent.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">34</span>
+<a name = "page34" id = "page34"> </a>
+<!-- png 065 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: St. Irénée.</span></p>
+
+<p>The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42
+Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short
+distance of the church of <a name = "lyons_st_irenee" id =
+"lyons_st_irenee"><b>St. Irénée</b></a>, on the summit of a hill in the
+suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a
+Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by
+the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance
+into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,
+which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the
+first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St.
+Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St.
+Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre
+St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y
+furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in
+1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of
+animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée,
+restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the
+saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first
+flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the
+original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were
+thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,
+<span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 202. To visit the calvary and
+crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing
+particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of
+the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It
+was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day.
+At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Cathedral of St. Jean.</span></p>
+
+<p>Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the
+Tilsit bridge, is the <a name = "lyons_cathedral" id =
+"lyons_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th
+cent., repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and
+reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates
+from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the
+13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely
+decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from
+W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th
+cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown
+flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right
+hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother
+Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,
+and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of
+the arches and the vault of the roof are richly
+<span class = "pagenum">35</span>
+<a name = "page35" id = "page35"> </a>
+<!-- png 066 -->
+decorated. In the N. transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas
+Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St.
+Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek, who preached in this city <span class =
+"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, and sealed his doctrines with his blood.
+Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., formerly the
+bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.</p>
+
+<p>A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)
+occupied in the 13th cent. by the <b>Knight Templars</b>. Above the
+cathedral is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of
+the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade
+of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the
+court rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up&mdash;the Pont
+de Nemours&mdash;leads directly to the church of <b>Saint Nizier</b>,
+with the façade towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de
+l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by
+Philibert Delorme, a&nbsp;native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent.
+The rest of the building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a
+broad triforium with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the
+church. The vaulting shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In
+the chapel of the south transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the
+foot of the pier in this transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th
+cent. At the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre,
+a&nbsp;modern edifice, with a beautiful portal of the 11th cent., all
+that remains of the original church.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Palais des Beaux-Arts. Musée Lapidaire.</span></p>
+
+<p>On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the <a name =
+"lyons_beaux_arts" id = "lyons_beaux_arts"><b>Palais des
+Beaux-Arts</b></a>, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames
+Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the
+museums. Open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from
+11 to 4, and to strangers daily.</p>
+
+<p>Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are
+the ancient marbles or <a name = "lyons_lapidaire" id =
+"lyons_lapidaire"><b>Musée Lapidaire</b></a>, one of the best in Europe.
+The sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs,
+in many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these
+records of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the
+Augustan age upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of
+that day were already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner
+of the court on entering is the stair which leads up to the
+Archæological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both on the first floor.
+Up on the second floor is the collection of paintings by the “peintres
+lyonnais.”</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">36</span>
+<a name = "page36" id = "page36"> </a>
+<!-- png 067 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Musée Archéologique.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "lyons_archeologique" id =
+"lyons_archeologique"><b>Musée Archéologique</b></a> is well arranged
+and carefully labelled. The only object we would indicate, as it is apt
+to be overlooked, is the bronze table, <span class =
+"smallroman">A.D.</span> 48, in the second room left hand, with
+inscribed portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor,
+imploring the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a
+Roman colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This
+table was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien.
+Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla,
+were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time
+prefect of Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs
+in hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,
+armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,
+rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on
+the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic
+collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at
+Lyons from 43 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> to 1857. Adjoining
+and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, contained in six small
+rooms, of which the first three contain the Flemish and Dutch schools,
+the next two the Italian and Spanish schools, and the sixth the French
+school. They are all carefully labelled. Among the pictures which
+represent the Flemish school are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers,
+Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael.
+The Italian and Spanish schools are represented by Canaletto, Sasso
+Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor
+of the fourth room is a remarkably perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by
+3, representing chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the
+church of Ainay.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Galerie Chenavard.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the <a name =
+"lyons_gallery" id = "lyons_gallery"><b>Galerie Chenavard</b></a> on the
+first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him illustrative of the
+scenes which accompanied the introduction of Christianity into France.
+They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason
+supervening, they were not sent. On the floors are three beautiful
+mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above are the best
+pictures&mdash;J.&nbsp;F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,
+P.&nbsp;Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci,
+1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E.&nbsp;L. David,
+1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674;
+Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M.&nbsp;Mierveld, Murillo,
+1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension
+of Christ, considered the gem of the collection.
+<span class = "pagenum">37</span>
+<a name = "page37" id = "page37"> </a>
+<!-- png 068 -->
+This picture, originally in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was
+presented by Pope Pio VII. “in attestato del suo affetto é della grata
+sua rimembranza per la citta di Lione.” The lower part of the picture is
+by far the best, the figures in the air are too massive, and the posture
+of J.&nbsp;C. is stiff. J.&nbsp;Ribera, 1584-1656; H.&nbsp;Rigaud,
+1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto,
+1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur,
+1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743.</p>
+
+<p>The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the
+<a name = "lyons_minerals" id = "lyons_minerals"><b>Mineralogical
+Collection</b></a>, in which are represented the characteristic rocks
+and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores from the
+mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000
+engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the
+arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every
+evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Place Terreaux. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p>
+
+<p>On the north side of the <a name = "lyons_terreaux" id =
+"lyons_terreaux"><b>Place des Terreaux</b></a> is the <a name =
+"lyons_hotel_ville" id = "lyons_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>,
+built in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by
+domed square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is
+1150 ft. long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture.
+From the centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over
+the entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within
+the vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the
+brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood
+originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.</p>
+
+<p>In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu,
+in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting
+in the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it
+became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the
+executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish
+this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Condition des Soies. Library. Bourse. Silk Museum.</span></p>
+
+<p>Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7,
+is the establishment of the <a name = "lyons_soies" id =
+"lyons_soies"><b>Condition des Soies</b></a>, where the bales of silk
+brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron
+grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from
+64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.
+The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first
+story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A&nbsp;little higher up are St.
+Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite
+end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">38</span>
+<a name = "page38" id = "page38"> </a>
+<!-- png 069 -->
+
+<p>In the Rue de la République is the <a name = "lyons_bourse" id =
+"lyons_bourse"><b>Bourse</b></a>, a&nbsp;profusely ornamented edifice
+inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built in the
+14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée with
+the <a name = "lyons_library" id = "lyons_library">public library</a>,
+containing the great terrestrial globe made at Lyons in 1701, indicating
+the great African lakes, the rediscovery of which has been one of the
+events of the present century. There are 160,000 volumes and 2500
+manuscripts,&mdash;about 600 of the printed works being incunabula, and
+25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian period.</p>
+
+<p>In the second story of the Bourse is the <a name =
+"lyons_silk_museum" id = "lyons_silk_museum">museum of the <b>Art and
+Manufacture of silk</b></a>. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays
+between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,
+specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to
+centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far
+the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first
+and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly
+artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely
+designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the
+hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting
+posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also
+the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms
+from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains
+part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom
+made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to
+produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely
+changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same
+loom. Near the loom is the first <a name = "lyons_sewing_machine" id =
+"lyons_sewing_machine"><b>sewing machine</b></a>. The inventor was
+B.&nbsp;Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are
+improved copies.</p>
+
+<p>The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of
+silk&mdash;displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori,
+as well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every
+condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and
+hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.
+Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for
+these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to
+hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals,
+have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure
+is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion,
+<span class = "pagenum">39</span>
+<a name = "page39" id = "page39"> </a>
+<!-- png 070 -->
+which makes a silk dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly,
+with an occasional alteration, it was worn for years.</p>
+
+<p>In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large
+covered markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive
+in tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway
+travelling provision. (See <a href = "#page42">page&nbsp;42</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: City Hospital and Workhouse.</span></p>
+
+<p>Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and
+the other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the
+<a name = "lyons_hospital" id = "lyons_hospital"><b>Hôtel Dieu</b></a>, or
+general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by Childebert
+and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally the work
+of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, about
+1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per day. The
+rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards are
+arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under the
+small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from
+their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,
+containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are
+tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the
+Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at
+Oullins for incurables.</p>
+
+<p>In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.
+Temple, the Narcissa of his <i>Night Thoughts</i>, who died in 1730 at
+Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a
+built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it
+is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly
+decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,
+of Sainte Valentine.</p>
+
+<p>Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531,
+on the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes
+who have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be
+mothers. The church was built in 1617.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: St. Martin d’Ainay.</span></p>
+
+<p>North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across
+the Saône, is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_martin" id =
+"lyons_st_martin"><b>St. Martin d’Ainay</b></a>, which, with the
+monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine,
+on the site of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour
+of Cæsar Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the
+Saracens, in the 8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in
+1106 by Pope Pascal&nbsp;II. Since then it has been frequently repaired
+and altered. The style belongs to what is called modern
+<span class = "pagenum">40</span>
+<a name = "page40" id = "page40"> </a>
+<!-- png 071 -->
+Greek, introduced into France under Charlemagne. The cupola of the
+chancel rests on circular pendentive arches springing from four granite
+columns which stood formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were
+originally 2, but were cut into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal
+chapels are by H.&nbsp;Flandrin, a&nbsp;native of <b>Lyons</b>. To the
+right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint Blandina, in which a short
+stair leads down to the crypt and the dungeons, one on each side, where
+Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and Blandina, a&nbsp;converted slave,
+were kept before being tortured and put to death in <span class =
+"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, during the persecution under Marcus
+Antoninus, the implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft.
+square, was, as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on
+account of the overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to
+their present level.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lyons: Parc de la Tête-d’Or.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "lyons_park" id = "lyons_park"><b>Parc de la
+Tête-d’Or</b></a>, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E. extremity
+of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the left bank of
+the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an abundant
+supply of varied walks, a&nbsp;large and excellent botanic garden with
+hothouses, a&nbsp;lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a
+dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale.
+Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the
+Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of
+objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history,
+religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The
+institution publishes essays and translations.</p>
+
+<p>By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large
+barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.</p>
+
+<p>Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of
+silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on
+the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom
+has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings,
+are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can
+work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more
+<i>compagnons</i>, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La
+Croix Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the
+Saône. The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of
+looms, who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a
+finished state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is
+estimated at £15,000,000.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "dyeing_silk" id = "dyeing_silk">
+<span class = "headnote">The Dyeing of Silk&mdash;Origin of
+Lyons.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture.
+Many experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and
+<span class = "pagenum">41</span>
+<a name = "page41" id = "page41"> </a>
+<!-- png 072 -->
+in particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its
+colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he
+received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour.
+Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a
+brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand.
+Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a
+permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk
+were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The
+worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed
+in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of
+persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is
+now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of
+gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries,
+foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and
+hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A&nbsp;large
+trade is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring
+departments, and known as <i>marrons de Lyon</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lyons_origin" id = "lyons_origin">The earliest Gallic
+occupants</a> of the territory at the confluence of the Rhône and the
+Saône were the Segusians. In 590 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>
+some Greek refugees from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained
+permission of the natives to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse,
+called their new town by the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 <span class
+= "smallroman">B.C.</span> Munatius Plancus brought a Roman colony to
+Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired importance, and
+was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great roads. Augustus,
+besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, gave it a senate and
+made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies from the sixty cities
+of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of Forum Vetus and the
+municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the <i>jus senatus</i>.
+The town, burnt by Nero in 59 <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span>,
+was rebuilt by him in a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian,
+and Antoninus.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont-d’Or.</span></p>
+
+<p>Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions
+from Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4&nbsp;m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus
+starting from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St.
+Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, 3¼&nbsp;m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending.
+Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on
+a wide terrace commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is
+poor and dirty, and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont
+Ceindre walk from the omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend
+by the telegraph posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent
+<span class = "pagenum">42</span>
+<a name = "page42" id = "page42"> </a>
+<!-- png 073 -->
+and descent can be done easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to
+Lyons by the returning coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some
+houses, an old hermitage, and a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary.
+The view is grand, embracing the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the
+towns of Bugey and Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné,
+and the Alps. Mont Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020
+ft.; and Mont Houx, 2008 ft., form together <a name = "lyons_mont_dor"
+id = "lyons_mont_dor"><b>Mont-d’Or</b></a>, a&nbsp;group of mountains
+covered with vineyards and meadows.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lyons_cheese" id =
+"lyons_cheese">
+Cheese.</a></span>
+The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the best and most celebrated
+in France. They are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches in diameter
+and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. They are made from a
+mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to derive their peculiar
+flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats feed during a
+considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore (likewise
+famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small boxes.
+The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by Roche-Cardon,
+a&nbsp;favourite retreat of J.&nbsp;J. Rousseau. Another easy excursion
+is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) going up the
+Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat going to St.
+Rambert, a&nbsp;rather dirty little town on the right bank, 1½&nbsp;m.
+above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of Cuire.
+In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the bridge
+passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, and the
+tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail is the
+best part of the excursion, not the island.</p>
+
+<p>For <a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">Lyons to Nîmes</a>, by rail 172 m.
+south by the west bank of the Rhône, see p.&nbsp;81; <a class = "turin"
+href = "turin.html#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons</a> by
+Roanne and St. Etienne, p.&nbsp;346; <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#paris_to_lyons_tarare">Paris to Lyons</a> by Tarare,
+p.&nbsp;348; <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#lyons_to_clermont">Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand</a> by St.
+Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p.&nbsp;349, and <a href =
+"#map27">map p.&nbsp;27</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vienne.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">338</span>
+<span class = "miles to">199</span>
+<a name = "vienne" id = "vienne"><b>VIENNE</b></a>, pop. 27,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the capital of the first
+kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of important edifices, which
+indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in the days of Cicero were no
+strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding the Augustan age. The most
+interesting of these is the <b>Maison Carrée</b>, an oblong temple of
+the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia, 55 ft.
+high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way north from the
+cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace fronting the chain
+bridge is <b>St. Maurice</b>, a&nbsp;beautiful Gothic cathedral
+commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the
+<span class = "pagenum">43</span>
+<a name = "page43" id = "page43"> </a>
+<!-- png 074 -->
+roof of the nave 88 ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the
+altar the skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died
+in 1723. At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other
+end of the chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe
+Valois. Up the Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot,
+near a stair leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil,
+where Pontius Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended
+his life (it is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About
+¼&nbsp;m. down the Rhône from the railway station, by the Marseilles
+road, is the Pyramide de l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It
+is 52 feet high, and rises from four arches resting on a square
+basement. Columns with cushioned capitals ornament the four corners,
+which cannot date earlier than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial
+town, with important woollen manufactories. 3¼&nbsp;m. S. by rail is
+Vaugris, pop. 250. On the other side of the Rhône is <a href =
+"#ampuis">Ampuis</a> (p.&nbsp;81). 6&nbsp;m. farther S. by rail is Le
+Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village
+among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château
+de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the
+year was to commence with the first of January.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote">>
+<span class = "headnote">St. Rambert-d’Albon. Tain.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">356½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">180½</span>
+<a name = "st_rambert" id = "st_rambert"><b>ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON</b></a>,
+junction with line to Grenoble 57½&nbsp;m. E., by Rives 35&nbsp;m., and
+Voiron 42&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾&nbsp;m.
+W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to <a href =
+"#annonay">Annonay</a> (see page 81, and map <a href = "#map27">pages
+26</a> and&nbsp;<a href = "#map46">46</a>).</p>
+
+<p>5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the
+town is the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of
+the Galaure are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of
+the Dauphins, and the chapel of N.&nbsp;D. de Vals (see <a href =
+"#map46">map, page&nbsp;46</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">368</span>
+<span class = "miles to">169</span>
+<a name = "tain" id = "tain"><b>TAIN</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Europe; Midi. A&nbsp;pleasant town on the Rhône, immediately
+opposite <a href = "#tournon">Tournon</a> (page 82), and at the foot of
+the hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety
+has a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a
+luxurious wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Omnibus at station for Romans, 13&nbsp;m. on the rail between Valence
+and Voiron (see <a href = "#map46">map page 46</a>), pop. 13,000.
+<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with
+the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with
+Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.</span></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">44</span>
+<a name = "page44" id = "page44"> </a>
+<!-- png 075 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Valence.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">384</span>
+<span class = "miles to">153</span>
+<a name = "valence" id = "valence"><b>VALENCE</b></a>, pop. 24,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first the most expensive.
+Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge
+across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½&nbsp;m. west. Coaches daily
+to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an eminence rising from the
+Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the site of the old
+fortifications. The most handsome is the Place Championnet, on the site
+of the citadel, commenced by François. It commands an excellent view of
+the river and of the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on an
+arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “au
+General Championnet, sorti des rangs du peuple. Hommage public de sa
+ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.</p>
+
+<p>To the left of the statue is the cathedral <b>St. Apollinaire</b>,
+built in 1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower
+were rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable
+appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves.
+A&nbsp;delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the
+round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by
+restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached
+Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of
+the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone.
+From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being
+occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust
+by Canova of Pope Pius&nbsp;VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His
+remains were removed to Rome.</p>
+
+<p>Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a&nbsp;sepulchral
+chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in
+1548. On each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably
+flat dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes,
+built in 1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under
+canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading
+into the court are in a much better state of preservation.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their
+transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent.,
+and a picture gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vernoux. Coaches from Valence.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "valence_to_grenoble" id = "valence_to_grenoble">Rail to
+Grenoble</a>, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40&nbsp;m. farther. Omnibus
+daily to <a href = "#st_peray">St. Péray</a> (p.&nbsp;82). Coach by St.
+Péray to Vernoux, 18&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;<a name = "vernoux" id =
+"vernoux"><b>Vernoux</b></a> 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100.
+<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in
+Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and
+valleys. A&nbsp;large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">45</span>
+<a name = "page45" id = "page45"> </a>
+<!-- png 076 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "valence_coaches" id = "valence_coaches"><b>Valence</b></a> is
+one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences
+from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St.
+Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a>
+(see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes,
+Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at
+St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two
+diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At
+Ollières, H.&nbsp;du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence
+from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire
+to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard.
+Valence is 5 hrs. from St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs.
+St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see
+also <a href = "#page93">pages 93 and 94</a>). Coach from Valence to La
+Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a
+mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the
+sun.</p>
+
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">ARDECHE<br>
+its vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 078 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 46</span>
+<i>For continuation northwards see map, page 167.</i><br>
+<a name = "map46" id = "map46" href = "images/map46.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map46thumb.png" width = "461" height = "233"
+alt = "map of Ardêche"></a><br>
+<i>For map of the Mountains of Ardeche see <a href = "#map84">page
+84</a>.<br>
+For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ardeche" id = "ardeche">
+ARDÈCHE.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip center">
+(See <a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September.
+In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best
+houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of
+fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread
+often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is potatoes
+sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a pleasant soup
+of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are required for the
+accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which each hamlet has at
+least 2, while the larger villages and towns have from 4 to 8, besides
+market-days. One of the prettiest sights in Ardèche is to see the people
+flocking from every direction along the winding mountain roads to the
+village where the fair is being held&mdash;many on foot driving small
+parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of
+eggs, cheese, and butter, and often an old hen; others with carts loaded
+with potatoes; others travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and
+others on horseback, the women as well as the men being astride.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight forbidding,
+but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of things improves
+rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural products are potatoes
+and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and
+cherry trees, cultivated on terraces supported by low stone walls of
+rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in the lowest zone, on the sunny side
+of the mountains. The cattle are of a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured
+and light brown, with large bones and white horns generally tipped with
+black.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and grown-up
+women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above 8s., and
+many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman shears it off
+in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only
+<span class = "pagenum">46</span>
+<a name = "page46" id = "page46"> </a>
+<!-- png 077 -->
+a little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank,
+and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take
+the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females
+during their long winters is lace-making.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont
+Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The most
+central station of the diligences is <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le
+Cheilard</a> (see page 83).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts
+of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½&nbsp;m. S. from Valence and
+23½&nbsp;m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Livron. Crest.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">395</span>
+<span class = "miles to">142</span>
+<a name = "livron" id = "livron"><b>LIVRON</b></a>, pop. 4500, on the
+Drôme, at some distance from the station. Restaurants at station. Inns
+in the town. On the other side of the Rhône, connected by railway
+bridge, is <a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a>, 1¼ m. W. (see
+p.&nbsp;82).
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from Livron,
+68&nbsp;m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and Marseilles.
+As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the picturesque and
+well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is a large Protestant
+population, nearly every village having its Temple Protestant (see maps,
+<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and <a href
+= "#map56">56</a>).</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+11 miles E. from Livron by rail is <a name = "crest" id =
+"crest"><b>Crest</b></a>, pop. 6000. <i>Hotels:</i> Bonsans-Reboul, the
+best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, by the side of the
+river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The omnibuses of the two
+hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly on the Drôme and
+partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the foot, in the
+market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. Straight up
+from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of 116 steps, is
+the entrance to the poor church of N.&nbsp;D. de la Garde, attached to
+the “Asile” for young children. A&nbsp;little higher up are the hospital
+and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the enclosure, on which
+stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly the remains of a castle
+which was added to it in the 13th cent. The highest side is 170 ft.
+above the ground, and the other three 148 ft., ascended by 260 steps.
+Although so high, the view is limited by the high side, into which
+visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives below in the town, near
+the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the first narrow street, left
+from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which continue to a stone
+lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend by the path, right, to the
+Calvary, where there is a splendid view of the valley of the Drôme.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coaches daily from <a name = "crest_to_montelimart" id =
+"crest_to_montelimart">Crest to Montelimart</a>, 22½&nbsp;m. S.W. (see
+Index); also to Beaufort, 12&nbsp;m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the
+copious source of the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout.
+3&nbsp;miles from Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach
+also to Bourdeaux, 16&nbsp;m. S., passing Saou, 9&nbsp;m. S. from Crest
+(see <a href = "#map56">map, p.&nbsp;56</a>).
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Saou.</span>
+<a name = "saou" id = "saou"><b>Saou</b></a>, pronounced Sou, pop. 1200,
+is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Lattard. Mixed
+up with and built into the surrounding squalid houses are the remains of
+the abbey church and
+<span class = "pagenum">47</span>
+<a name = "page47" id = "page47"> </a>
+<!-- png 079 -->
+buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are
+the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are
+within the court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th
+and 13th cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of
+the narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains,
+from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata
+piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic forms.
+It is 8&nbsp;m. long, and from a few yards to 2&nbsp;m. wide. At the
+commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream, is
+the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the other
+side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. Mt.
+Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called the
+Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square house,
+with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best parts of
+the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its termination, where
+the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of 5324 ft. above the
+sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At the foot of Mt.
+Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley becomes so narrow
+that there is scarcely sufficient room for the stream to pass through.
+2¼&nbsp;m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, a&nbsp;little beyond,
+the terminus of the valley.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourdeaux. Dieulefit.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. <a name = "bourdeaux" id =
+"bourdeaux"><b>Bourdeaux</b></a>, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> Blanc; Petit;
+Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8&nbsp;m. N. from
+Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, composed of
+squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping up the hill,
+crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the 8th cent.
+Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief industries.
+Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8&nbsp;m. from Dieulefit the courrier
+requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain ridge, the
+Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "dieulefit" id = "dieulefit"><b>Dieulefit</b></a>, pop. 5000.
+<i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the Jabron at the
+foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½&nbsp;m. E. from Montelimart, between
+which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are silk, cotton,
+and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a coarse kitchen
+ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to Montelimart are
+Poët-Lavat, 3⅛&nbsp;m.; La Begude, 7½&nbsp;m.; under
+Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a
+considerable distance from the road (see <a href = "#map56">map, page
+56</a>).</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Die.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "crest_to_aspres" id = "crest_to_aspres">
+CREST TO ASPRES</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center">(Maps, pp. 46 and 56).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die.</i>&mdash;The road as far as
+the Pass de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town
+passed is Saillans, 9½&nbsp;m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i>
+Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½&nbsp;m. farther, is
+Pontaix, similarly situated. 23&nbsp;m. <ins class = "correction" title
+= "text reads ‘L.’">E.</ins> from Crest, and 34&nbsp;m. W. from Aspres,
+is <a name = "die" id = "die"><b>Die</b></a>, pop. 4000, the principal
+town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the Mérosse.
+<i>Inns:</i> St. Dominique; Alpes&mdash;the coach stops between them;
+Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank
+during its first year;
+<span class = "pagenum">48</span>
+<a name = "page48" id = "page48"> </a>
+<!-- png 080 -->
+in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach to Châtillon, 12&nbsp;m.
+S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain surrounded by mountains, of
+which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, 6648 ft. above the sea,
+flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top is an undulating plateau,
+covered with <i>small</i> stones and grass; 5 hrs. required for the
+ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the rustic but not uncomfortable
+establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; pension per day, with baths,
+9&nbsp;frs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses.” The bath
+resembles a large oven, in which, after having been heated with resinous
+fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish bath. Open from 15th June to
+15th September. The landlord is likewise proprietor of a large part of
+Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his supplies of fir-wood. On the top of
+a hill on the other side of the Drôme is a similar establishment, called
+the Martouret, pension 12 frs. The way to it strikes off the main road
+opposite the eminence, on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding
+a very good view of the valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at
+one of the old gateways, a&nbsp;road strikes off to the left, which
+makes the tour of the ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry
+trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better
+gateway or Roman triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The
+parish church has been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Luc. Aspres.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which
+changes horses at <a name = "luc_en_diois" id = "luc_en_diois"><b>LUC en
+Diois</b></a>, pop. 940. <i>Inn:</i> Du Levant; Église Protestante,
+10½&nbsp;m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A&nbsp;poor town,
+among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high
+mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost
+closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from
+the adjoining cliffs. 9½&nbsp;m. farther up the valley is the village of
+Beaurières (<i>Inn</i>, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is
+now commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres,
+15&nbsp;m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2&nbsp;m. from
+Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall 195
+ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3&nbsp;from Aspres, is St. Pierre
+d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to
+the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing
+mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best when
+2 years old. <a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>Aspres</b></a>, pop.
+800, is situated on the railway, 126½&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles, and
+77½&nbsp;m. S. from Grenoble. The coach sets down passengers either at
+the station or at the inn H.&nbsp;Ferdinand. The church has been
+rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the tympanum a curious
+representation of the Trinity.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montélimart.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">412</span>
+<span class = "miles to">125</span>
+<a name = "montelimart" id = "montelimart"><b>MONTÉLIMART</b></a>, pop.
+12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion and Jabron with the
+Rhône. <i>Hotels:</i> near the station, the France; in the town the
+Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for <a href =
+"#le_teil">Le Teil</a>, on the W. side of the Rhône; for <a href =
+"#grignan">Grignan</a>, p.&nbsp;49; <a href =
+"#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a>, p.&nbsp;47; <a href =
+"#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a>, p.&nbsp;47; and <a href =
+"#nyons">Nyons</a>, p.&nbsp;50; is near the hotels Poste and Princes. Up
+the Grande Rue is the principal
+<span class = "pagenum">49</span>
+<a name = "page49" id = "page49"> </a>
+<!-- png 081 -->
+church. On the opposite side of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post
+Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the
+first flight of steps in the Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long
+and 2 ft. wide, bearing in Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198.
+At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the
+Temple Protestant. Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake,
+“Nougat,” of which the best is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an
+eminence on the side of the town farthest from the station are the
+ancient citadel and the tour de Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart,
+originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement under the
+name of Montilium, which was changed afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar
+by a powerful family, who came into possession of it in the days of
+Charlemagne. To the same family belonged also <a href =
+"#rochemaure">Rochemaure</a>, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see
+page 92, and <a href = "#map56">map page&nbsp;56</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau,
+2½&nbsp;m. S.E.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15&nbsp;m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by
+Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½&nbsp;m. longer.
+(See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.)</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of <a name = "alan" id =
+"alan"><b>Alan</b></a>, half-way between Montelimart and Grignan, “there
+existed down to 1802 the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It
+was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one
+of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign,
+in 1494.” The mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of
+France than the olive (see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Grignan. Marquise de Sévigné.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "grignan" id = "grignan"><b>Grignan</b></a>, pop. 1900;
+<i>Inn:</i> Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill on the top of
+which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and ugly half-ruined
+and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. The former Salle du
+Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, containing upwards of 300
+paintings, among which the most interesting are&mdash;the portraits of
+Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About half-way up the hill is the
+church, commenced in the 12th cent. <a name = "sevigne" id =
+"sevigne">In front of the altar</a> a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by
+1½ wide, bears the following inscription:&mdash; “Cy Git Marie de
+Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above
+the well, in the “Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew
+curls. About ½&nbsp;m. from the town is what was one of her favourite
+walks to an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de
+Roche-Courbière. To visit it, descend from the inn, then take the first
+byeroad right, by a row of poplars to a short stair. A&nbsp;coach runs
+from Grignan to Nyons, 20½&nbsp;m. S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan.
+<a name = "valreas" id = "valreas"><b>Valréas</b></a> (pronounce the “s”),
+8¼&nbsp;m. from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;du Nord, is partly surrounded with its old walls, garnished with
+square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17&nbsp;m. N.W.
+<span class = "pagenum">50</span>
+<a name = "page50" id = "page50"> </a>
+<!-- png 082 -->
+from Nyons by Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du
+Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partly surrounded with its old walls.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">420</span>
+<span class = "miles to">117</span>
+<a name = "donzere" id = "donzere"><b>DONZERE</b></a>. H.&nbsp;du
+Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four and a half miles
+south is <b>Pierrelatte</b> station, and the terminus of the unfinished
+railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time 45
+minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an interesting
+cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics have been found
+in the neighbourhood.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Croisiere.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">432</span>
+<span class = "miles to">105</span>
+<a name = "la_croisiere" id = "la_croisiere"><b>LA CROISIERE.</b></a>
+Two small inns at station.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H.&nbsp;de l’Europe,
+3½&nbsp;m. W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars.
+Fare, 40 c. The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in
+1265 and finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at
+the W. end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for
+the convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For <a href =
+"#pont_st_esprit">Pont Saint-Esprit</a>, see page 98).</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½&nbsp;m. E. by the
+valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;Manufactures
+of fire-bricks and clay-tubing. 7½&nbsp;m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop.
+2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12&nbsp;m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300;
+<i>Inn:</i> Vigne. Horses changed here. 15¾&nbsp;m. E., St. Maurice,
+pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres a
+cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons the
+coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H.&nbsp;du Louvre; whence the
+diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see <a href =
+"#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nyons.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "nyons" id = "nyons"><b>NYONS</b></a>, on the Aigues, pop.
+4000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre, in the Place; Voyageurs, in a corner.
+Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high
+mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and therefore eminently
+fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The orange and palm do not
+grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear
+trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine truffles. Silk mills and
+the preserving of fruit and truffles supply the principal industries.
+The old town, called Les Forts, is built on an eminence partly
+surrounded with its old walls garnished with square towers, 14th cent.
+The vieux château, or centre tower, has been converted by the curate
+into a chapel surmounted with an image of the “immaculately conceived.”
+The part of the town below is called Les Halles, whose dirty streets are
+bordered with thick heavy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the
+Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch
+and considerably higher in the centre than at the ends.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+The Pontias Breeze.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is
+the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that
+the night-breeze called the <a name = "pontias" id =
+"pontias">Pontias</a> issues. In winter this wind is very
+<span class = "pagenum">51</span>
+<a name = "page51" id = "page51"> </a>
+<!-- png 083 -->
+cold, and blows from 5 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 9 <span
+class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> In summer it is pleasant, and blows
+from 9 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 7 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> The peculiarity is, that the degree of force is
+constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, commence
+from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the Rue
+Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last tower
+a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a small
+chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a pavilion.
+Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the part of the
+ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the back of the
+ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by this latter way
+retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path for 116 yards;
+while those who have come by the other go 116 yards beyond the chapel.
+Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be observed the thin
+ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is the entrance to the
+Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of insignificant dimension.
+Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are several crevices. The view
+of the valley of the Aigues from this hill is very beautiful. The ascent
+takes 35 minutes.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nyons_to_serres" id = "nyons_to_serres">
+NYONS TO SERRES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Nyons to Serres</b> (see <a href = "#map56">map, p. 56</a>), 41 miles
+east by the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by
+high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns
+passed are at a considerable height above the road, and sometimes on
+account of the steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first
+village passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾&nbsp;m. from Nyons,
+and 3½&nbsp;m. from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from
+Nyons. A&nbsp;little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of
+the river, here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill
+on the S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the
+mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road
+crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St.
+May, where there is an inn, H.&nbsp;Marius. St. May itself is high up on
+the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty
+precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the
+village of Rémusat, 17&nbsp;m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its
+junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of
+the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22&nbsp;m.
+from Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½&nbsp;m. farther or
+15½&nbsp;m. from Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col
+of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the
+Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200.
+<i>Inns:</i> Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½&nbsp;m. N. from
+Marseilles and 77½ S. from <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (see p.&nbsp;340).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Orange.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">444</span>
+<span class = "miles to">93</span>
+<a name = "orange" id = "orange"><b>ORANGE</b></a>, pop. 10,300.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the
+Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to the hotel is
+the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour of Tiberius
+for his victory over Sacrovir and
+<span class = "pagenum">52</span>
+<a name = "page52" id = "page52"> </a>
+<!-- png 084 -->
+Floras, <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 21. It stands E. and W.,
+is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep, and
+consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. and
+each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented with
+six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved
+Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the
+shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows,
+etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a
+combat.</p>
+
+<p>At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre
+at the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The
+<b>Cathedral</b> of Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in
+style the churches of the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of
+Perpignan is the great type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels
+between the buttresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory
+windows. A&nbsp;plain and ugly square tower, in this case, at the east
+end. Adjoining is the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to
+“Raimbaud&nbsp;II., Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem
+en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the town, the Cours St. Martin, is a
+statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a&nbsp;writer on agriculture, and a
+native of Orange; where also he died in 1862. At the foot of the hill,
+overlooking the town, are the grand and imposing ruins of one of the
+most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in a semicircular form, has a
+façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The wall is 13 ft. thick, composed
+of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular wall consists of five stages,
+and included accommodation for 6500 spectators. The building has
+recently been repaired and cleared of a quantity of rubbish.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "prince_orange" id = "prince_orange">
+<span class = "headnote">Prince Of Orange and Orangemen.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably
+under Raimbaud&nbsp;I., whose successor, Raimbaud&nbsp;II., has just
+been noticed. On the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third
+line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René
+(Renatus) of Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his
+successor his cousin William&nbsp;I., stadtholder of the United
+Netherlands. The title “Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the
+stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William&nbsp;I.,
+William&nbsp;II., and William&nbsp;III. After the Revolution in Ireland
+of 1688, the English-Protestant party were designated Orangemen, from
+the title of their leader, William&nbsp;III., Prince of Orange. Louis
+XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace
+of Ryswick. On the death of William&nbsp;III. there were two
+claimants&mdash;John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by
+William’s will, and Frederick&nbsp;I, King of
+<span class = "pagenum">53</span>
+<a name = "page53" id = "page53"> </a>
+<!-- png 085 -->
+Prussia, who claimed to be nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by
+the will of Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the
+principality a forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to
+the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last
+prince should have the <i>dominium utile</i>; and its finding was
+confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the
+title and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still styled
+Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). John William Friso, however, also
+took the title, and his successors the stadtholders and kings of the
+Netherlands have all been designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast
+numbers of silkworms are reared at Orange. Coach daily to <a href =
+"#valreas">Valréas</a> 22&nbsp;m. E., p.&nbsp;49, and to Vaison
+17½&nbsp;m. N.E. (Map <a href = "#page56">p.&nbsp;56</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vaison. St. Quenin.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vaison" id = "vaison"><b>Vaison</b></a>, pop. 3400.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Commerce. 5&nbsp;m. N. from Malaucene,
+17½&nbsp;m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼&nbsp;m. S. from Nyons, 13½&nbsp;m.
+W. from Le Buis, and 4&nbsp;m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is
+on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are
+connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the
+left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with
+its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned
+with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond&nbsp;VI., Count of Toulouse,
+in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a
+small square tower at one of the angles. A&nbsp;little below is the
+parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at
+S.E. end. The view from the terrace is beautiful.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and
+very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town,
+where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle.
+Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman
+theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is <a name = "st_quenin" id =
+"st_quenin"><b>St. Quenin</b></a>, while a little beyond is the
+cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as they call it, is built
+on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange,
+but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five
+tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest
+stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow
+road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from
+the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or
+apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an
+attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the
+angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The
+neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is
+evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Of the <b>Cathedral</b> the best part is also the outside. Under the
+eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of
+medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are
+pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.
+<span class = "pagenum">54</span>
+<a name = "page54" id = "page54"> </a>
+<!-- png 086 -->
+The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed
+arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered
+pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also
+pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent.; but
+the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on
+colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N.E. side,
+rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful
+cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St.
+Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13
+arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At the corners is either a
+massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman
+antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The
+most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill
+opposite the castle stands an image of the “Immaculée” on the capital
+and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map <a href =
+"#page56">p.&nbsp;56</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sorgues. Carpentras.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">455</span>
+<span class = "miles to">82</span>
+<a name = "sorgues" id = "sorgues"><b>SORGUES</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the
+Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction with line to Carpentras,
+10½&nbsp;m. eastwards. <a name = "carpentras" id =
+"carpentras"><b>Carpentras</b></a>, pop. 10,500, on an eminence
+surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. <i>Hotels:</i> Universe;
+Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the Hôtel-Dieu,
+built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a portrait by
+Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the centre of
+the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie d’Inguimbert.
+From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public building is
+the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of
+the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of
+Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a
+pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.
+Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a
+“Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the
+pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk
+to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is
+the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull
+and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of
+J.&nbsp;C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of Mary
+painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another “Coronation”
+by P.&nbsp;Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein.
+Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix
+in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal
+arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. high (but
+originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. span. On the
+N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief,
+a&nbsp;Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a
+prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From
+the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is
+a similar cross, but not in
+<span class = "pagenum">55</span>
+<a name = "page55" id = "page55"> </a>
+<!-- png 087 -->
+such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem
+of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte
+d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only three
+sides exist. It was built by Innocent&nbsp;VI., who also surrounded the
+town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the
+boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal aqueduct,
+to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the
+two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N.W. to S.E.,
+with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras
+crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The canal, which
+by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the
+Durance to the Ouvèze, a&nbsp;distance of 43 miles, and cost £90,000. In
+the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved
+fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum.
+The library contains a valuable collection of manuscripts, explained in
+a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols., for
+which there is not sufficient accommodation.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "carpentras_museum" id =
+"carpentras_museum">
+Carpentras: Museum.</a></span>
+In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze
+and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at
+Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone
+slab, 4th or 3d cent. <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, 19¼ in.
+long by 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow
+borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with uplifted
+hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are
+sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment,
+is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed
+Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary
+funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic
+inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first
+French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "truffles" id = "truffles">
+Truffles.</a></span>
+Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or
+white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has the
+smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse,
+they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1&nbsp;foot below the
+ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and
+of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to
+the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and
+decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black,
+hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and
+shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may
+weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are sought by means of
+dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more
+dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards
+of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a
+masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the
+truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the
+truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two
+<span class = "pagenum">56</span>
+<a name = "page56" id = "page56"> </a>
+<!-- png 088 -->
+acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the
+search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Ortolans.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The <a name = "ortolans" id = "ortolans"><b>ortolans</b></a>, which
+breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While
+on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans
+singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are
+fattened. In about a month’s time they become so plump as hardly to be
+able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for
+alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred
+from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and
+wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,”
+a&nbsp;sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike
+barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is
+Eysseric.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from
+the Riviera&mdash;the hotels are comfortable and the prices
+moderate&mdash;excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the
+vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½&nbsp;m. N., by Vacqueyras
+6½&nbsp;m., and Vaison 17½&nbsp;m. Also to Nyons 26&nbsp;m., by
+Malaucene 10&nbsp;m. N.E., and Vaison 15&nbsp;m. by this way. Coach to
+Buis-les-Baronnies 23&nbsp;m. N.E., passing through Malaucene. Coach
+from Buis to Nyons 19&nbsp;m. N.W. by Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to
+Buisson 7½&nbsp;m. N. on the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28½&nbsp;m. E.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½&nbsp;m. S.E. Coach daily to
+L’Ile 10½&nbsp;m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.
+Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½&nbsp;m. S.E., by
+Venasque 7¼&nbsp;m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and <a href =
+"#map56">maps pages 56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">THE PLAINS<br>
+between the ARDECHE,<br>
+the RHONE and the DURANCE.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 089 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 56</span>
+[West End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map46">map,
+page 46</a>.</i><br>
+[East End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br>
+<a name = "map56" id = "map56" href = "images/map56.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map56thumb.png" width = "462" height = "235"
+alt = "the plains"></a><br>
+<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br>
+[West End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map66">map,
+page 66</a>.</i><br>
+[East End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a class = "riviera" href
+= "riviera.html#map163">map, page 163</a>.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bedoin. Mont Ventoux.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coach daily to <a name = "bedoin" id = "bedoin"><b>Bedoin</b></a> 8¾ m.
+N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Mont
+Ventoux. Station to ascend <a name = "mont_ventoux" id =
+"mont_ventoux"><b>Mont Ventoux</b></a>, 6274 ft., by a good road from
+the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2&nbsp;m. from the village
+and the top 10&nbsp;m. by the easy southern slope. Time to ascend, from
+5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. Before commencing the
+ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a
+general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those
+mulberry trees, is the one to take. A&nbsp;little distance along it, at
+a well with a cistern, a&nbsp;narrow road strikes off to the left and
+ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a
+splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top,
+travellers generally start at 11 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>,
+and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste.
+Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure
+range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in
+every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper
+and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre
+de Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon,
+a&nbsp;village 2¾&nbsp;m. N.E. At different parts in this
+<span class = "pagenum">57</span>
+<a name = "page57" id = "page57"> </a>
+<!-- png 090 -->
+neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of
+sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "resin_baths" id = "resin_baths">
+<span class = "headnote">Resin Baths. Malaucene.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of
+<a name = "st_didier" id = "st_didier"><b>St. Didier</b></a>, with a good
+hydropathic establishment in an old château. Rooms from 1½ fr. to
+3&nbsp;frs. Servants’ rooms, 1&nbsp;fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both
+with wine, 5&nbsp;frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, breakfast and
+dinner, for children and servants, 3&nbsp;frs. Service, ½ fr. First
+consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but
+in the guests’ room 1&nbsp;fr. each time. The baths are in the style of
+the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated
+with resin or is turpentinised (<i>térébenthiné</i>). It has a
+beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2¾
+m. W. from Venasque and 2&nbsp;m. from Le Beaucet (<a href =
+"#map56">map p.&nbsp;56</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23&nbsp;m.
+N.E., by Malaucene 10&nbsp;m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing
+the N.W. extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le
+Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the
+foot of Mont Ventoux, 5&nbsp;m. S. from Vaison and 13&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Buis, is <a name = "malaucene" id = "malaucene"><b>Malaucene</b></a>,
+1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Cours, in a
+picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the
+calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½&nbsp;m. from the inn is
+the spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous
+cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. The
+stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in
+motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit
+the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene.
+The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than
+from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are
+the springs&mdash;Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and
+Font Filiole, 5866 ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the
+Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with,
+in the neighbourhood, a&nbsp;great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.
+Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze
+statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. No
+public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the
+length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St.
+Euphemie 7&nbsp;m. E., St. Auban 10&nbsp;m. E., Montguers 11¼&nbsp;m.
+E., Lacombe 13¼&nbsp;m. E., and Laborel 27&nbsp;m. E., after which the
+road descends to the railway by the valley of the Céans.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Buis.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip space">
+<a name = "le_buis" id = "le_buis"><b>LE BUIS</b></a>, pop. 2000;
+<i>Inns:</i> Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouvèze
+surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and
+cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata cover some parts; at others
+there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or
+in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go
+to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having
+crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right
+hand, which continue to the next
+<span class = "pagenum">58</span>
+<a name = "page58" id = "page58"> </a>
+<!-- png 091 -->
+bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right:
+for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the
+left, just before reaching the bridge.</p>
+
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon" id = "avignon">
+<span class = "headnote added">Avignon.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">59</span>
+<a name = "page59" id = "page59"> </a>
+
+<!-- png 092 -->
+<a name = "map59" id = "map59" href = "images/map59.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map59thumb.png" width = "419" height = "324"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "center smallroman">SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.</p>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<b>1.</b> Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the
+Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of
+Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the
+hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the
+Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the promenade is,
+<b>2</b>,&nbsp;formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a seminary. Below
+the Pope’s Palace is <b>B</b>, the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, with the
+H.&nbsp;de Ville and theatre. The street <b>C C</b>, extending southward
+to the principal station, is called the R. de la Republique or Rue
+Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, <b>3</b>,&nbsp;the Hotel de
+Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S.W. is the Rue
+Calade, with, at <b>4</b>,&nbsp;the Musée Calvet, and at
+<b>5</b>,&nbsp;across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien,
+a&nbsp;museum of natural history. Farther east is, <b>6</b>,&nbsp;St.
+Joseph’s College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers,
+where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the
+town, <b>7</b>,&nbsp;is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, <b>O</b>,
+beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while <b>8</b>&nbsp;indicates the
+road to the cemetery. A&nbsp;short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de
+Ville is, <b>9</b>,&nbsp;the church of St. Pierre. No.&nbsp;10, not far
+from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the
+Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the Place du
+Corps-Saint. No.&nbsp;13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14.&nbsp;Chapel
+Bénézet on bridge. 15.&nbsp;St. Symphorien. 16.&nbsp;Sacré-Cœur.
+17.&nbsp;Prison. 18.&nbsp;Mont-de-Piété. 19.&nbsp;Court-house.
+20.&nbsp;Lyceum. 21.&nbsp;Prefecture. 22.&nbsp;Suspension Bridge.
+23.&nbsp;Bénézet Bridge. A,&nbsp;Place du Palais. B,&nbsp;Place de
+l’Hôtel de Ville. C,&nbsp;Rue de la République. D,&nbsp;Rue Calade.
+F,&nbsp;Place du Corps Saint. G,&nbsp;Rue des Lices. H,&nbsp;Place Pie.
+J,&nbsp;Vieux Septier. K,&nbsp;Rue du Saule. L,&nbsp;Rue Carréterie.
+M,&nbsp;Porte du Rhône. N,&nbsp;Porte de la Ligne. O,&nbsp;Porte St.
+Lazarus. Q,&nbsp;Porte L’Imbert. R,&nbsp;Porte St. Michael.
+S,&nbsp;Porte St. Roche. T,&nbsp;Porte de l’Oulle.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">461</span>
+<span class = "miles to">76</span>
+<b>AVIGNON</b>, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls,
+garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the
+Rhône, 2&nbsp;m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from <b>Nîmes</b> by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and
+Remoulins. <i>Hotels:</i> *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre;
+St. Yves, in the centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great
+market-place. Temple Protestant in the R.&nbsp;Dorée, near the
+Préfecture. Cabstands at station and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
+2&nbsp;frs. per hour. From the station, a&nbsp;beautiful avenue, the
+Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with
+statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri IV., “Louis des
+Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l’infanterie
+française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading up
+to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N.&nbsp;D. des Domes, and
+the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the ramparts, compose
+the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the palace lives just
+within the entrance. Fee for party, 1&nbsp;fr. Opposite gate is the
+Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The churches are
+closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public on Sundays
+between 12 and&nbsp;4.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Avignon Palace.</span></p>
+
+<p>The present <a name = "avignon_palace" id =
+"avignon_palace"><b>Palace</b></a>, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336,
+and finished by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure,
+consisting of plain walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by
+long ungainly buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway,
+are the arms of Clement&nbsp;VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets,
+the balcony from which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is
+the Cour d’Honneur, a&nbsp;vast quadrangular space between flat walls,
+pierced by from 3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of
+the same size. From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur,
+a&nbsp;groined staircase, of which the steps were formerly of marble, to
+the Salle Consistoriale d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before
+this hall was divided into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170
+long. From it we enter the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone
+Memmi of Sienna. Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the
+left the small window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby
+tunnelled in the wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie
+de Conclave, the Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then
+enter the Tour St. Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office,
+<span class = "pagenum">60</span>
+<a name = "page60" id = "page60"> </a>
+<!-- png 093 -->
+or the chapel of the <b>Inquisition</b>, with mural paintings. In the
+story immediately below is the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St.
+Jean, after passing through a large hall, we enter an octagonal room,
+gradually narrowing towards the centre, till it forms a chimney-tower,
+called the Tour Strapade. Some say this was the torture room; but it is
+evidently more suited for a kitchen, which in all probability it was.
+Adjoining is the Glacière, into whose underground cellars, now built up,
+the democrats of 1791 flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had
+murdered. From this we enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour
+Trouillas, in which Rienzi was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain
+fixed to the roof of his cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305
+to 1234, and till 1793, the half of Avignon was occupied by
+ecclesiastical edifices, which tolled daily 300 bells, and had among
+them a daily succession of religious processions.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Avignon: Rocher des Doms. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town,
+the <a name = "avignon_rocher" id = "avignon_rocher"><b>Rocher des
+Doms</b></a>; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a public
+garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who introduced, in
+1766, the culture of the “garance,” the <i>Rubia tinctoria</i>, now
+superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a stair leads down
+to the Rhône near the <a href = "#avignon_benezet">Bridge Bénézet</a>
+(see page 63). In the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and
+on the other side are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of
+Villeneuve, and above it the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the
+Cathedral <a name = "avignon_cathedral" id =
+"avignon_cathedral"><b>Notre-Dame-des-Doms</b></a>, 194 feet above the
+Rhône, approached by a stair called the Pater, because originally it had
+as many steps as there are words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has
+undergone many changes, and belongs to various periods. The portal and
+lower part of the tower are of the 10th cent., and are due to
+Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries later. The apse was added in 1671.
+The most remarkable part of the structure is the cupola, terminating in
+an octagonal lantern, and supported on pendentive arches. It bears
+traces of frescoes painted in 1672. In the sanctuary is the marble
+throne used by the Popes, in the sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean
+XXII., and in one of the side chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the
+third chapel (right hand) is a Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The
+sacristan is generally in the small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½
+fr. for showing the church and the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end
+a tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other
+side of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the
+<span class = "pagenum">61</span>
+<a name = "page61" id = "page61"> </a>
+<!-- png 094 -->
+eastern end of the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts
+every hour from the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops
+at the east end of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Avignon: St. Agricol. Musée Calvet.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the “Place” the principal edifice is the <a name =
+"avignon_hotel_de_ville" id = "avignon_hotel_de_ville"><b>Hôtel de
+Ville</b></a>, built in 1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th
+cent, of which all that remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard
+and his wife, from the two figures which strike the hours. Next the
+Hôtel de Ville is the theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of
+<a name = "avignon_st_agricol" id = "avignon_st_agricol"><b>St.
+Agricol</b></a>, 1340, the patron saint of Avignon. To the right on
+entering is the tomb of the painter Pierre Mignard, d.&nbsp;4th April
+1725, aged 86, and third chapel on same side is a virgin and child in
+wood by Coysevox. To the left of the entrance is an ancient and elegant
+marble baptismal font. At the foot of the short street St. Agricol, in
+the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue
+Calade is the <a name = "avignon_musee_calvet" id =
+"avignon_musee_calvet"><b>Musée Calvet</b></a>, containing a valuable
+collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4,
+and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. Against the
+wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this museum, Claud
+François Calvet, d.&nbsp;25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On the right
+is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to Laura de Sade,
+dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the Cordeliers
+(see <a href = "#page62">p.&nbsp;62</a>). On the other side is the tomb
+of the military strategist Folard, a&nbsp;native of Avignon. In the
+outer court, and in the rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are
+Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin
+inscriptions, found in the neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and
+<a href = "#vaison">Vaison</a> (p.&nbsp;53). Among the sculptures in
+relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses with their
+hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent., from
+Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the
+Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches
+and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope
+Urbain&nbsp;V., of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal
+Palice. Within railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a&nbsp;faun by Brian,
+and a bather by Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is
+a valuable collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and
+medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes
+during their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition
+while here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings,
+including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures
+have the artists’ names affixed. Those
+<span class = "pagenum">62</span>
+<a name = "page62" id = "page62"> </a>
+<!-- png 095 -->
+in the great hall are by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon,
+Canaletto, A.&nbsp;Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David,
+*Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F.&nbsp;Floris, Gericault,
+Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P.&nbsp;and N. Mignard, J.&nbsp;and
+P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun., Veronese,
+Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room are the paintings by
+Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few by Paul Huet. The
+marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. In the centre of an
+inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is the famous ivory
+crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting the arms,
+a&nbsp;chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said that
+Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_musee_requien" id =
+"avignon_musee_requien">
+Avignon: Musée Requien.</a></span>
+Continuing down the R.&nbsp;Calade to the other side of the
+R.&nbsp;Petrarque or de la République, we have on the right the Museum
+of Natural History in the church St. Martial, 15th cent. The greater
+part of the specimens were bequeathed by M.&nbsp;Requien, d.&nbsp;1851,
+and of them the most interesting are those connected with the
+neighbourhood, such as the flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the
+fossils from Aix. In the eastern continuation of the R.&nbsp;Calade, at
+No. 62 R. des Lices, is the Collége <a name = "avignon_st_joseph" id =
+"avignon_st_joseph"><b>Saint Joseph</b></a>, containing within its
+grounds all that remains (the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of
+the church of the Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has
+been repaired, and is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely
+admitted. It is to the left of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no
+vestiges, having been destroyed along with the church by an infuriated
+mob in 1791. On the E. side of the R.&nbsp;Petrarque, by the narrow
+R.&nbsp;Prévot, is the church of <a name = "avignon_st_dedier" id =
+"avignon_st_dedier"><b>St. Dedier</b></a>, 1355, containing, in first
+chapel right from entrance, a&nbsp;relief in marble representing Christ
+bearing his cross, executed by Francesco in 1481 at the request of King
+René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. above the floor, is a stone
+pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave of St. Bénézet is under a
+plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front of the high altar. Near
+St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and to the east of the
+Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre (9&nbsp;in plan),
+1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The pictures about
+the high altar are by N.&nbsp;Mignard, J. and P.&nbsp;Parrocel, and
+Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
+the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and
+Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town
+<b>hospital</b> (7&nbsp;in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built
+in the last century on the site of
+<span class = "pagenum">63</span>
+<a name = "page63" id = "page63"> </a>
+<!-- png 096 -->
+the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. Here, outside the
+town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the left, is the
+Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of the entrance.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_j_s_mill" id =
+"avignon_j_s_mill">
+Avignon: J. S. Mill.</a></span>
+In a corner at the end of a short avenue of pine trees is the white
+marble monument to John Stuart Mill, b.&nbsp;20th May 1806, d.&nbsp;7th
+May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet Mill, his beloved wife,
+who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe, Nov. 3, 1858.
+A&nbsp;touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the whole
+surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a&nbsp;walk may be
+taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in
+1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint,
+and architect, <a name = "avignon_benezet" id =
+"avignon_benezet"><b>Bénézet</b></a>, who before had constructed one
+over the Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952
+ft. long and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+On the second arch is the chapel of <a name = "avignon_st_nicolas" id =
+"avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas</a>, in which the relics of St. Bénézet
+were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Villeneuve-les-Avignon.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_villeneuve" id =
+"avignon_to_villeneuve">
+Avignon to Villeneuve.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station,
+while every hour an omnibus crosses for <a name = "villeneuve_avignon"
+id = "villeneuve_avignon"><b>Villeneuve-les-Avignon</b></a>, pop. 3100,
+2½&nbsp;m. from the “Place,” or 1¼&nbsp;m. from the Pont station. Near
+the parish church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the
+chapel to the left, the mausoleum of Innocent&nbsp;VI., under a lofty
+elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs
+is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture
+belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two
+subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different
+artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads,
+even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most
+charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as
+a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the
+Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV.,
+where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she
+married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where
+her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law,
+the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she
+steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her
+drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on
+the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times
+with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to
+be
+<span class = "pagenum">64</span>
+<a name = "page64" id = "page64"> </a>
+<!-- png 097 -->
+broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by
+Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno.
+Fee, 1&nbsp;fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in
+the 14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing
+extraordinary. Near it are the ruins of the
+Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an eminence Fort André, now
+inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for Avignon starts every hour
+at the hour, from the apsidal end of the parish church of
+Villeneuve.</p>
+
+<p>Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the
+Mistral, yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage,
+“Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours
+from the drains in some of the streets being very offensive.</p>
+
+<p>Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was
+forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General
+Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery,
+the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in
+this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade,
+opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Avignon to Nîmes.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_nimes" id =
+"avignon_to_nimes">
+Avignon to Nîmes.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting
+from the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those
+wishing to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets
+for the Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with
+luggage, it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where,
+without loss of time on arriving, take other tickets to the
+Pont-du-Gard, leaving the luggage behind. Time will generally be saved
+by returning from the Pont to Remoulins on foot, about 3&nbsp;m. by the
+road, but 5&nbsp;m. by the rail. See <a href = "#map56">Map,
+p.&nbsp;56</a>. For <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a> see p.&nbsp;<ins class
+= "correction" title = "text reads ‘110’">101</ins>, and for the <a href
+= "#pont_du_gard">Pont-du-Gard</a> see <ins class = "correction" title =
+"text reads ‘114’">p.&nbsp;104</ins>. Consult the “Indicateur des
+Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+L’Isle. Fontaine de Vaucluse.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_vaucluse" id =
+"avignon_to_vaucluse">
+Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle.</a></h5>
+
+<p>From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18&nbsp;m. eastward, by the
+village of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. <a name = "lisle" id =
+"lisle"><b>L’Isle</b></a>, pop. 7000, a&nbsp;village on the Sorgues,
+with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome reredos over
+high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent dates from the
+11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle hotels, Petrarque et
+Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take them to Vaucluse and
+back for 4&nbsp;frs. each. From the village of <a name = "vaucluse" id =
+"vaucluse"><b>Vaucluse</b></a>, pop. 600, take for the fountain the road
+on
+<span class = "pagenum">65</span>
+<a name = "page65" id = "page65"> </a>
+<!-- png 098 -->
+the right bank of stream, but for the house and garden of Petrarch take
+the left side, crossing the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff
+near the cloth mill, is a small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of
+which it is a copy. Before it, is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s
+garden. On the other side of the Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is
+a little hotel at Vaucluse, the Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a
+stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the source of the river Sorgue, the
+placid <a name = "fontaine_vaucluse" id =
+"fontaine_vaucluse"><b>Fontaine de Vaucluse</b></a> about 30 yards in
+diameter&mdash; “a&nbsp;mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still,
+that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and
+water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to
+contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into
+the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock
+crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal
+Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description
+of the site:&mdash; “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river;
+on another by a rugged mountain, a&nbsp;barrier against the noon-day
+heats, and which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its
+friendly shade; but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In
+the distance a surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast.
+Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds&mdash;these are my delights. My table is
+also graced with the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my
+greatest pleasures to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw
+them myself. All about me is changed. I&nbsp;once used to dress myself
+with care; now you would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house
+resembles that of Fabius or Cato. I&nbsp;have but a valet and a dog. The
+house of my servant adjoins my own. I&nbsp;call him when I want him, and
+when I have no more need of him he returns home.”</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon_petrarch" id =
+"avignon_petrarch">
+<span class = "headnote">Avignon: Petrarch.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of
+Avignon Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a
+romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful
+vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France,
+Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned
+to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.</p>
+
+<p>Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to
+18 frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.</p>
+
+<p>20½ m. from Avignon by rail is <a href = "#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a>
+(p.&nbsp;66), whence a branch line extends 20&nbsp;m. E. to Apt, another
+line 27&nbsp;m. S.E. to Pertuis on the Marseilles and Grenoble line, and
+another 22½&nbsp;m. S. to <a href = "#miramas"><b>Miramas</b></a>
+(p.&nbsp;76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See <a href = "#map66">map,
+p.&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">66</span>
+<a name = "page66" id = "page66"> </a>
+<!-- png 099 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Apt.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "avignon_to_manosque" id =
+"avignon_to_manosque">
+AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is <a name = "apt" id =
+"apt"><b>Apt</b></a>, pop. 7000, on the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered
+hollow surrounded by mountains and calcareous cliffs. <i>Hotels:</i> The
+*Louvre; des Alpes. The principal industries are agriculture, pottery,
+and the making of preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as
+well as that on which the sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to
+soak from 2 to 8 months in a strong solution of white sugar, in
+uncovered “terrines,” like small basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such
+as oranges, are pricked before being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard
+Croix) is near the station, to the left on descending the hill. The
+clay, gray and reddish, is in thick beds close to the establishment, and
+resembles that of Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting
+fire, and is therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen
+pottery. M.&nbsp;Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea
+services, of which the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the
+establishment of L.&nbsp;A. Esbérard, who confines himself almost
+exclusively to kitchen pottery.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on
+entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower.
+Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of the
+mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which many
+are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque
+(<i>Hotel:</i> Eymon), 26&nbsp;m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼&nbsp;m. E.,
+and Reillanne, on the top of a hill, 5&nbsp;m. farther. Manosque is on
+the rail between Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, <a href =
+"#map27">pages 26</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "cavaillon_to_miramas" id =
+"cavaillon_to_miramas"><b>Cavaillon to Miramas</b></a>, 22½ m. S. (see
+<a href = "#map66">map, p.&nbsp;66</a>), across a fertile plain, with
+vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. <a name =
+"cavaillon" id = "cavaillon"><b>Cavaillon</b></a> (pop. 8000).
+<i>Inns:</i> Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. Cavaillon is a
+pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on the Durance at
+the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an ancient triumphal
+arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th cents., with a
+cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the neighbourhood.
+4¼&nbsp;m. S. from Cavaillon is <a name = "orgon" id =
+"orgon"><b>Orgon</b></a> (pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> Paris; Poste), on the
+Durance. 11&nbsp;m. farther S. is <a name = "salon" id =
+"salon"><b>Salon</b></a> (pop. 7100. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Croix de
+Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, dealing largely in first-class
+olive oil, has still remnants of its old ramparts: a&nbsp;church, St.
+Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St. Laurent, of the 14th, and a
+castle of the same date. In the town is a fountain to the memory of Adam
+de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. (For <a href =
+"#miramas">Miramas</a>, see p.&nbsp;75.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tarascon. Martha’s Tomb.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">474</span>
+<span class = "miles to">63</span>
+<a name = "tarascon" id = "tarascon"><b>TARASCON</b></a>, pop. 11,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> At the foot of the station stairs, the Luxembourg; in the
+town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to Nîmes, 17&nbsp;m. W., and
+31&nbsp;m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a large hospital
+for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc Molière. Tarascon is
+an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite Beaucaire, and connected with
+it by a chain bridge
+<span class = "pagenum">67</span>
+<a name = "page67" id = "page67"> </a>
+<!-- png 101 -->
+1450 feet long. In the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is
+an ancient crypt, just under the spire, with the <a name =
+"marthas_tomb" id = "marthas_tomb">tomb of Martha</a>, the sister of
+Lazarus, whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the
+peaceful-looking marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of
+the place says she had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of
+the inhabitants, to kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a
+bull’s, and having succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her,
+after her death buried her in this place. A&nbsp;few steps from the
+church, by the side of the river, rises the massive strong square
+castle, begun in 1400 and finished by the Roi René, now used as a
+prison. On the opposite side of the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are
+the more picturesque ruins of the castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining
+garden forms one of the many promenades of the people of Beaucaire.
+Beaucaire is a poor town with poor houses. The formerly famous fair,
+commencing on July 1, has become now of little importance. It is held in
+the broad avenue between the castle and the Rhône.</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+THE MOUTHS OF THE RHONE.</p>
+
+<!-- png 100 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 66</span>
+<i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page
+56</a>.</i><br>
+[West] <i>For continuation see map, page 107.</i><br>
+<a name = "map66" id = "map66" href = "images/map66.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map66thumb.png" width = "466" height = "232"
+alt = "see caption"></a><br>
+<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#map123">map, page 123</a>.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Remy. Les Baux.</span></p>
+
+<p>9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is <a name = "st_remy" id =
+"st_remy"><b>St. Remy</b></a>, pop. 6800. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Cheval
+Blanc, a&nbsp;comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for Les
+Baux, 6&nbsp;m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and
+Mont-Majour, 19&nbsp;m. distant, 24 frs. A&nbsp;mile from the Hôtel
+Cheval Blanc, by the high road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the
+commercial stations of the Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it
+fell into the possession of the Romans, who have left here two
+remarkable monuments, of which the more perfect consists of an open
+square tower standing on a massive pedestal, and surmounted by a
+peristyle of ten columns surrounding two statues representing the
+parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of the Julii, by whom it was
+erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the statues look to the north.
+The sculpture on the north side of the pedestal represents a cavalry
+fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west, a&nbsp;combat between
+infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, “Victory crowning
+a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch, of which the most
+perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the soffit.</p>
+
+<p>6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is <a name = "les_baux" id =
+"les_baux"><b>Les Baux</b></a>, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, pop. 100.
+<i>Inn:</i> Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in 485,
+occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature into
+bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by ancient
+art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art and
+nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie cheek-by-jowl
+with masses of the rough-hewn
+<span class = "pagenum">68</span>
+<a name = "page68" id = "page68"> </a>
+<!-- png 102 -->
+rock; fallen cavern vaults are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped
+spandrel and clustered column shaft; the doors and windows of old
+pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and wild fig tapestry; while winding
+staircases start midway upon the cliff and lead to vacancy. High
+overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang chambers&mdash;lady’s bower or
+poet’s singing room&mdash;now inaccessible, the haunt of hawks and
+swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb&mdash; “cette ville en monolithe,”
+as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped out of one
+mountain block&mdash;live a few poor people, foddering their wretched
+goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their
+mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux
+road to Fontvieille, 7&nbsp;m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles
+(see <a href = "#map66">map, page&nbsp;66</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arles.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 103 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 68</span>
+[East]<br>
+<a name = "map68" id = "map68" href = "images/map68.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map68thumb.png" width = "347" height = "559"
+alt = "plan of Arles" title = "Arles"></a><br>
+[West]<br>
+<i>Scale of ¼ Mile</i>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">483</span>
+<span class = "miles to">54</span>
+<a name = "arles" id = "arles"><b>ARLES</b></a>, pop. 26,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Forum; near each other in the Place du Forum. Arles
+is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a marshy place, as its
+original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, “Ar lach,” damp place,
+indicates. It is said to have been founded 900 years before Marseilles,
+700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the birth of Christ. The ramparts
+and walls rising from the public gardens and the Boulevard des Aliscamps
+are chiefly the work of the Emperor Constantine, who came to Arles with
+his family and mother, Saint Helena. He built by the side of the Rhône a
+superb palace, called afterwards “de la Trouille,” because opposite a
+ferry-boat, which was pulled or dragged from one side of the river to
+the other. Of this palace little more remains than the attached tower La
+Trouille, constructed of alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th
+August 312 his wife Faustina presented him with a son,
+Constantine&nbsp;II., who succeeded his father in May 357. He commenced
+the Forum, but was shortly after killed in battle defending himself
+against his brother Constance, who usurped the throne and finished the
+Forum. All that remains of this formerly splendid edifice are the two
+Corinthian columns, with part of the pediment encrusted into the wall of
+the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the site of the Place du Forum, called
+also the Place des Hommes, because labourers and men-servants used to be
+hired in this “Place.”</p>
+
+<p>In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on
+the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The
+spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these
+baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an
+ossuary.</p>
+
+<p>Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne,
+<span class = "pagenum">69</span>
+<a name = "page69" id = "page69"> </a>
+<!-- png 104 -->
+now the Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions,
+sarcophagi, urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones,
+those of the Pagans having the letters D.M., <i>Diis manibus</i>. Also
+some of the long lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius
+Porthinus fac.,” which helped to bring water from the fountain at the
+foot of the hill on which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is
+a torse of Mithras of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in
+1598 on the site of the Roman Circus. A&nbsp;serpent is coiled round the
+body, and between the coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite
+corner is an altar in Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,”
+found under the church La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak
+leaves and acorns, and 7 inches distant from each other two human ears.
+Near it is a good head of Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About
+the centre of the room is a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine
+skin under his arm.</p>
+
+<p>In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high,
+hewn by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in
+the Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges
+remain.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arles: St. Trophime.</span></p>
+
+<p>Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of <a name = "arles_st_trophime"
+id = "arles_st_trophime"><b>St. Trophime</b></a>, consecrated on the
+17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221,
+consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are
+statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum
+is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists.
+In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the
+cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the
+16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.</p>
+
+<p>Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left,
+we arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks,
+and finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin,
+originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian
+columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the
+proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators,
+with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most
+valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to
+the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to
+strangers.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arles: Amphitheatre.</span></p>
+
+<p>A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing <a name =
+"arles_amphitheatre" id = "arles_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a>
+or Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius
+Nero, <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft.
+long and 132 wide, surrounded by a double wall 60 ft. high, each with
+two stages of
+<span class = "pagenum">70</span>
+<a name = "page70" id = "page70"> </a>
+<!-- png 105 -->
+arches, and in each stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers
+of stone seats, capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps
+leading up to them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were
+besides above 150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the
+theatre, and 100 dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by
+the Saracens in the 8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building,
+when a multitude of spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the
+galleries. A&nbsp;splendid view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of
+the commencement of the delta of the Rhône, is had from the western
+tower. The entrance into the amphitheatre is by the north gate. The
+doorkeeper lives in a house a little to the left of the gate. This grand
+ruin should, if possible, be visited by moonlight; yet during the day
+the beautiful masonry is more easily examined. It is the great sight in
+Arles, and it is better to omit all the others than to do this one
+hurriedly.</p>
+
+<p>The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of
+Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the
+Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east
+by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with
+extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It
+is best visited by the steamboat sailing <a href =
+"#arles_to_port_st_louis">between Arles and Port St. Louis</a> on the
+mouth of the great Rhône. (See p.&nbsp;72, and <a href = "#map66">map,
+p.&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arles: Elysei Campi. Trophimus.</span></p>
+
+<p>S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on
+the site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down
+the Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left.
+The first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the
+monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side
+by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without
+lids. This, the <a name = "arles_elysei" id = "arles_elysei"><b>Elysei
+Campi</b></a>, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested of all its
+valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As
+J.&nbsp;C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of
+the cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be
+especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury
+their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with
+their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône,
+of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of
+the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel
+founded by <a name = "arles_trophimus" id =
+"arles_trophimus">Trophimus</a> the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s
+converts, who was sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end
+to human sacrifices. Among the first things he is
+<span class = "pagenum">71</span>
+<a name = "page71" id = "page71"> </a>
+<!-- png 106 -->
+said to have done was to consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus
+from a heathen into a Christian burial-place, and add to it a little
+chapel. An old Arles writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus
+dedicated this chapel to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36
+years in this diocese he died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried
+in the little chapel he himself had built. Among the successors of
+Trophimus were Ambrose in 160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in
+220, who died 10 years afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years
+afterwards; Marcien in 252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St.
+Cyprien in 253. Saint Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the
+church of St. Honorat beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church
+dates only from the 12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part,
+excepting the foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is
+semicircular, with 4 pilasters and a small window in the centre to give
+light to the officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry
+in two arcaded stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper
+calls a small chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel
+of Trophimus.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arles: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "arles_gallery" id = "arles_gallery"><b>Picture
+Gallery</b></a>, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure,
+near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the
+town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d.&nbsp;1833.
+On picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the
+picture gallery is the school of design.</p>
+
+<p>Branch line from <a name = "arles_to_fontvieille" id =
+"arles_to_fontvieille">Arles to Fontvieille</a>, 7 m. E., passing
+Mont-Majour 4&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;Fontvieille is 7&nbsp;m. S.W. from Les
+Baux by a good road. Junction at Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes,
+36&nbsp;m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58&nbsp;m. S.W.; Cette is
+17&nbsp;m. farther. (See <a href = "#map66">map, p.&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont-Majour.</span></p>
+
+<p>4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and
+abbey of <a name = "montmajour" id =
+"montmajour"><b>Mont-Majour</b></a>, all in a good state of
+preservation, excepting the domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The
+concierge lives in a house near the station. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr. He
+generally shows first the church, 11th cent., and the spacious crypt
+below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are the cloisters, 11th cent., of
+the same kind as those of St. Trophime, but more interesting and more
+perfect, and containing the tombs of some of the counts of Anjou. Next
+is the beautiful square dungeon tower, nearly as perfect as when erected
+in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is ascended by 137 steps, and commands a
+wide prospect. From this, a&nbsp;stair leads down the face of the hill
+to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, principally hewn in the soft
+limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base of the hill is St. Croix,
+dedicated in 1019,
+<span class = "pagenum">72</span>
+<a name = "page72" id = "page72"> </a>
+<!-- png 107 -->
+consisting of four semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting
+from a square tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille
+(Hôtel du Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous
+sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "arles_to_port_st_louis" id =
+"arles_to_port_st_louis"><b>Arles to Port Saint Louis</b></a>, at the
+mouth of the Great Rhône, 25&nbsp;m. S. by steamer on the Great Rhône.
+Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2&nbsp;frs. Railway unfinished (see <a href =
+"#map66">map, p.&nbsp;66</a>). The steamboat passes by an important part
+of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by
+irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines.
+Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass which
+cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that not a
+village is seen during the whole journey. (See also <a href =
+"#page70">p.&nbsp;70</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Port Saint Louis.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "port_st_louis" id = "port_st_louis"><b>Port Saint
+Louis</b></a> (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½&nbsp;m. W. from Port Bouc,
+consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of the
+canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. This
+canal is 2½&nbsp;m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand
+the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed to
+every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,” whence the
+plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, appears literally
+like a map. The only villages seen in the vast expanse are Fos, on a
+hill, and near it the Port Bouc.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient
+place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from
+Marseilles.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great
+Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or
+simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by
+fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good
+sculpture.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For <a name = "arles_to_port_bouc" id = "arles_to_port_bouc" href =
+"#port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Arles to Port Bouc</b></a>, 29 m. S., see
+p.&nbsp;76. The steamer sails from the S.W. corner of Arles (see <a href
+= "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Gilles. Lunel.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is <a name = "st_gilles" id =
+"st_gilles"><b>St. Gilles</b></a>, pop. 7000. Hôtel du Cheval-Blanc.
+A&nbsp;poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, near the
+Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered a good
+specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a bald wall
+with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are three
+semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on two
+single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but the
+pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque animals
+in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches of the
+portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, separated
+from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a nave and two
+aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. aisle a stair
+of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with semicircular arches on
+short massive piers. From the centre 7 more steps descend to the tomb of
+St. Gilles. All the characteristics of this church are equally well
+represented in St. Trophime of Arles.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is <a name = "lunel" id
+= "lunel"><b>Lunel</b></a>, pop.
+<span class = "pagenum">73</span>
+<a name = "page73" id = "page73"> </a>
+<!-- png 108 -->
+7300. <i>Inns:</i> Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A&nbsp;town of
+narrow streets, with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The
+church is constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and
+Perpignan. On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The
+first-class vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to
+18°, are all on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aigues-Mortes.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘8. m.’">8 m.</ins> S. by
+rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of <a name = "aiguesmortes"
+id = "aiguesmortes"><b>AIGUES-MORTES</b></a>, “stagnant waters,” pop.
+4300, 4&nbsp;m. from the Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and
+connected with it by a navigable canal. <i>Inn:</i> Saint Louis. It is
+of great historical interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old
+embrasured wall in France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596
+yds. long by 149 yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15
+towers. On the western side rises the famous round tower of Constance,
+96 ft. high and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed
+circular chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their
+Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties that
+the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their
+behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for them,
+but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the highly
+interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, whence
+the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has not,
+receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis&mdash;we think not.
+Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint Louis,
+who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it the most
+suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for Palestine. On
+25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church
+Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen
+Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to
+Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place;
+and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition,
+the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4&nbsp;m.
+S. from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the
+bathing station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. <i>Inns:</i> Pommier; Dubois (see
+<a href = "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is <a href = "#vigan">Vigan</a>. (See page
+105.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Nîmes, and 15&nbsp;m. S.W. from Lunel, is</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montpellier.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "montpellier" id = "montpellier"><b>MONTPELLIER</b></a>, on
+the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above the sea and
+7&nbsp;miles from it. Pop. 56,000. <i>Hotels:</i> H.&nbsp;Nevet, the
+best and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the
+same side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings
+containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and the
+Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. Adjoining
+is the Lycée.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H.&nbsp;du Midi,
+the next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H.&nbsp;Cheval Blanc,
+frequented by commercial men. Opposite the station is the H.&nbsp;de la
+Gare. In the fine broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the
+<span class = "pagenum">74</span>
+<a name = "page74" id = "page74"> </a>
+<!-- png 109 -->
+station to the Place de la Comédie, is the H.&nbsp;Maguelone, second
+class. Their omnibuses await passengers.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office
+in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. From
+the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de la
+Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below the
+prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See <a href = "#map66">map,
+p.&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montpellier: Botanic Gardens.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from the
+station to the Esplanade, a&nbsp;delightful promenade bounded by the
+citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a line
+of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the <a name =
+"montpellier_botanic" id = "montpellier_botanic"><b>Botanic
+Gardens</b></a>, the earliest institution of this kind in France,
+founded in the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the
+direction of the famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9
+acres, divided into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S.,
+in a hollow, surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these
+two divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once
+famous <b>École de médecine</b>, said to have been founded by Arab
+physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now
+occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with
+additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez,
+1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts of
+the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the college
+and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also valuable
+anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with 55,000 vols.
+Adjoining is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th cents.,
+but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White marble statue
+of Mary and child by Canova.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place du
+Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold weather
+invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower terrace of
+this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western end of the
+Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a&nbsp;hexagonal Corinthian building, which
+receives and distributes through the town the water brought from the
+fontaine de St. Clement, 5½&nbsp;m. from Montpellier. The aqueduct,
+which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite hill,
+consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long. The gate
+at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the victories of
+Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with statues of
+Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked streets, are the
+Mairie and the markets.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montpellier: Musée Fabre.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also on
+the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the <a name =
+"montpellier_fabre" id = "montpellier_fabre"><b>Musée Fabre</b></a>, the
+Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the “Collection de la
+Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays and
+feast days, contains, among many works of inferior merit, some good
+pictures by great artists, such as Berghem,
+<span class = "pagenum">75</span>
+<a name = "page75" id = "page75"> </a>
+<!-- png 110 -->
+Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L.&nbsp;David, G. Dow, Van
+Dyck, Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese,
+Porbus, P.&nbsp;Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens,
+Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D.&nbsp;Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg.
+The library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts,
+which belonged to Prince Charles Edward.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called
+St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of
+preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the
+principal industries.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a&nbsp;line
+extends through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and
+yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5&nbsp;m.
+south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is
+the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the
+Restaurant Parisien. A&nbsp;cabine (bathing-house), including costume
+and linen, costs 1&nbsp;fr. Leave the train at the Plage station.
+3&nbsp;m. from Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the
+mineral water establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and
+sedative. Good for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½&nbsp;m. north
+from Montpellier is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu
+(pop. 500) to the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and
+having on the top a chapel visited by pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from
+Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See <a href = "#map27">map,
+page&nbsp;27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Frontignan. Cette.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is <a name = "frontignan" id =
+"frontignan"><b>Frontignan</b></a>, pop. 3000. Possessing 570 acres of
+vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, luscious, and spirituous wines,
+made principally from the clairette and picardan grapes. The
+neighbouring marshes yield annually about 50,000 tons of salt.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+114 m. from Marseilles is <a name = "cette" id =
+"cette"><b>Cette</b></a>, pop. 29,000. At this point the Chemins de Fer
+de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du Midi, and
+consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to Toulouse and
+Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur des Chemins de
+Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271&nbsp;m. east from Pau, 266 from Bordeaux, and
+84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await passengers.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette makes a
+pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. Setius, 590
+ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest part of the
+Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is magnificent. In
+front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with its villages. At
+the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond Frontignan. The Port of
+Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. long, which encloses a
+harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two jetties; the western,
+constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the eastern 548 yds. This
+busy port, besides having an extensive carrying trade, has a large wine
+manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of imitations of all the
+well-known wines are made annually, by mixing different wines with each
+other.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">76</span>
+<a name = "page76" id = "page76"> </a>
+<!-- png 111 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway bridge)
+a&nbsp;small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, on
+Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade.
+Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline
+springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr.
+A&nbsp;quart contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the
+chloride of magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15
+grains of the sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8
+to 9&nbsp;fr., and the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du
+Midi enters Lake Thau at Les Onglous, 11&nbsp;m. W. from Cette. (See
+<a href = "#map27">map, page&nbsp;27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Miramas. Port Bouc.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">503</span>
+<span class = "miles to">34</span>
+<a name = "miramas" id = "miramas"><b>MIRAMAS</b></a>, pop. 900, south
+from the station at the head of the Étang Chamas. At the station there
+are a small inn and a large plantation of almond trees, which, when in
+flower, exhale a delightful perfume. Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon
+and L’Isle change carriages here (<a href =
+"#avignon_to_vaucluse">p.&nbsp;65</a>). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼&nbsp;m.
+south.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "miramas_to_portbouc" id =
+"miramas_to_portbouc">
+MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.</a></h5>
+
+<p><b>Miramas to Port Bouc</b> by rail through a flat plain (see <a href
+= "#map66">map, p.&nbsp;66</a>). The two most important towns passed on
+the way are: <a name = "istres" id = "istres"><b>Istres</b></a>,
+6¼&nbsp;m. from Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000,
+founded in the 8th cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of
+its ancient ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt
+and of the carbonate of soda. 13¼&nbsp;m. from Miramas is <a name =
+"fos" id = "fos"><b>Fos</b></a> (Fossae Marianae), pop. 1100, on a hill
+crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large tanks
+for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3&nbsp;miles south by rail,
+or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 miles S.
+from Arles by the canal, is <a name = "port_bouc" id =
+"port_bouc"><b>Port Bouc</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> near the
+stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du Commerce;
+near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang Caroute, near
+the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is an important
+fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. At the end of
+the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of 10&nbsp;m. At the
+other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive square tower in
+the centre and another lighthouse. About 7&nbsp;miles west from Port
+Bouc by the coast road is the <a href = "#port_st_louis">Port of St.
+Louis</a>, page 72. (For <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_to_martigues">Port Bouc to Martigues and
+Marseilles</a>, see p.&nbsp;118.)</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "port_bouc_to_arles" id = "port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Port Bouc to
+Arles</b></a>, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; fare,
+3&nbsp;frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are
+very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between
+Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about
+½&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;The Miramas railway passes it on the other side.
+Passengers drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors
+at the S.W. corner of Arles. (See <a href =
+"#arles_to_port_st_louis">p.&nbsp;72</a>, and <a href = "#map66">map
+p.&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Saint Chamas. Rognac.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">506½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">30½</span>
+<a name = "st_chamas" id = "st_chamas"><b>SAINT CHAMAS </b></a>(Sanctus
+Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½&nbsp;m.
+<span class = "pagenum">77</span>
+<a name = "page77" id = "page77"> </a>
+<!-- png 112 -->
+from the station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre,
+and on both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with
+excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder
+manufactories in this place. Hardly ½&nbsp;m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville
+is the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre,
+with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about 22
+ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian pilaster
+surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. On the top at
+each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are apparently ready to
+spring eastward, and the other two westward. The bridge is in a state of
+perfect repair, but the sculpture and inscription on the two arches over
+the entrances are slightly effaced. The road to it is by the Hôtel de
+Ville and the parish church with a rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the
+portal. The bridge is to the E. of St. Chamas, and is well seen from the
+railway, especially when crossing the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches,
+which carry the rail over the little valley of the Touloubre. 8½&nbsp;m.
+E. from St. Chamas is Berre station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly
+south, on <a name = "lake_berre" id = "lake_berre"><b>Lake
+Berre</b></a>, a&nbsp;sheet of water 14&nbsp;m. long and 38 in
+circumference.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">519½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">17½</span>
+<a name = "rognac" id = "rognac"><b>ROGNAC</b></a>, pop. 900. Junction
+with rail to Aix, 16½&nbsp;m. E., passing under the <a name =
+"roquefavour" id = "roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> aqueduct, 7½&nbsp;m.
+E.&nbsp;The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. of water per second from
+the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring plain, commences opposite
+<a name = "pertuis_2" id = "pertuis_2">Pertuis</a>, directly north from
+Marseilles. It is 94&nbsp;m. long, of which more than 15 are under
+ground; it has a fall of 614 ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of
+limestone hills, and crosses numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the
+largest crosses the ravine of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This
+aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½
+ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft. wide at the water-way. It consists of
+51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and cost £151,394, while the cost of the
+whole canal from the Durance to the sea, near Cape Croisette,
+a&nbsp;little to the east of Marseilles, has been £2,090,000.
+A&nbsp;branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons per
+minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by
+irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the
+basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp">Palais de
+Longchamp</a>. (See p.&nbsp;114, and for the course of the canal, maps
+pp. <a href = "#page66">66</a> and <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page123">123</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station,
+pass under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path
+and partly by steps to the house of the concierge.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">78</span>
+<a name = "page78" id = "page78"> </a>
+<!-- png 113 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aix. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only
+18&nbsp;m. N. by Gardanne, is <a name = "aix_en_provence" id =
+"aix_en_provence"><b>Aix</b>-en-Provence</a>, pop. 29,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east
+end of the Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the
+Hôtel du Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the
+France; at the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville,
+the Hôtel Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph
+offices in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite
+the Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was
+founded 120 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> by the Consul Sextius
+Calvinus around the thermal springs, which he himself had discovered.
+The temperature of the water is 95° F., and the ingredients, iron and
+iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides of soda and magnesia,
+together with an organic bituminous matter strongly impregnated with
+glairine. The establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours
+Sextius. Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1&nbsp;fr. At the high end of the
+Cours René is a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king
+of Naples, Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and
+buried at Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue,
+was a poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and
+astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art
+and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up to
+the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de
+Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the church
+of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the host.
+A&nbsp;little higher up are the <a name = "aix_hotel_ville" id =
+"aix_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>, built in 1640; the
+Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and
+spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower,
+bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de Ville
+is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble statue of
+Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also the public
+library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer book of King
+René, with illustrations said to have been done by himself. No. 569 is a
+small 4to volume, with copies of letters written by Queen Mary Stuart.
+The first 57 pages relate to her early history. At page 645 commences a
+defence of her conduct, written by a warm partisan of the queen. The
+street, ascending through the gateway of the clock tower, leads to the
+university buildings, the palace of the archbishop, and the
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "aix_cathedral" id =
+"aix_cathedral">
+Aix: Cathedral.</a></span>
+Cathedral of <b>Saint Sauveur</b>, built in the 11th cent., partly on
+the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 ft. high, was
+built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The façade was
+commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great entrance
+door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain outer door. In
+the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an octagonal chapel with
+six antique marble and two granite Corinthian columns about 30 ft. high,
+each shaft being of one stone. The ornamental sculpture on the panels
+and in the spandrels is by Puget. On the same side are two triptychs,
+one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by Saints,” and the
+<span class = "pagenum">79</span>
+<a name = "page79" id = "page79"> </a>
+<!-- png 114 -->
+other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, representing in the
+centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in a clump of trees. On
+one wing is King René on his knees, attended by the Magdalene, St.
+Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is the king’s second
+wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron saints. On the outside of
+the shutters are the angel Gabriel and Mary.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the
+left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511,
+representing scenes in the life of J.&nbsp;C. Both pieces are said to
+have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church
+possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000
+virgins presented by Nicolas&nbsp;V. in 1458, a&nbsp;rib of St.
+Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our
+Lord.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aix: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to the
+church of St. Jean and the <a name = "aix_gallery" id =
+"aix_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a> adjoining; free on Sundays and
+Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. by the
+Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John
+of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the left of the altar is the
+tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions,
+and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of
+paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or
+numbers.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about
+the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,” are flat
+and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is
+reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged
+is&mdash;the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather
+plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are
+large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be
+allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The
+trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Rians. Meyrargues.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+(For the following see maps, <a href = "#map66">pages 66</a> and
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map123">123</a>.) Coach daily
+from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8&nbsp;m.
+E.&nbsp;The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated
+near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the
+culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire
+mountains. <a name = "rians" id = "rians"><b>Rians</b></a>, pop. 2900,
+<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards.
+Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½&nbsp;m. N. from
+Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½&nbsp;m. N.,
+with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou,
+in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the
+fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2&nbsp;m. beyond Jouques is
+<a name = "peyrolles" id = "peyrolles"><b>Peyrolles</b></a> (pop. 1200.
+<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of
+the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old
+fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "meyrargues" id = "meyrargues"><b>Meyrargues</b></a> (pop.
+2000. <i>Inn:</i> Reynaud) is situated with its castle
+<span class = "pagenum">80</span>
+<a name = "page80" id = "page80"> </a>
+<!-- png 115 -->
+in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from
+Rians.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "diligences" id = "diligences">
+<span class = "headnote">Diligences. Branch Lines.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18&nbsp;m. W., passing by
+La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14&nbsp;m.
+W.&nbsp;Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4&nbsp;m. W. (For <a href =
+"#salon">Salon</a>, see p.&nbsp;66.) 5&nbsp;m. N.E. from Pelissanne is
+Lambesc.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best
+way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a
+coach awaits passengers for <a name = "st_cannat" id = "st_cannat">St.
+Cannat</a>, 5&nbsp;m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½&nbsp;m. farther. In the
+village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N.&nbsp;D. de la Vie, visited by
+pilgrims. <a name = "lambesc" id = "lambesc"><b>Lambesc</b></a>,
+14&nbsp;m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably
+situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive
+oil and silk form the principal industries.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is <b>Gardanne</b>, pop.
+3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules,
+52&nbsp;m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules</a>,
+p.&nbsp;142.)</p>
+
+<p>From Rognac the <a name = "branch_lines" id =
+"branch_lines">train</a> passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at
+Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½&nbsp;m. S. from Rognac.
+3¼&nbsp;m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles is
+Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see <a href =
+"#avignon_to_manosque">p.&nbsp;66</a>), 12¾&nbsp;m.&nbsp;E.</p>
+
+<p>Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and
+7&nbsp;miles north from Marseilles, is the station of <a name =
+"lestaque" id = "lestaque"><b>L’Estaque</b></a>, a&nbsp;village on the
+sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the
+valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor,
+architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at
+Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis
+XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the
+youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a&nbsp;poor
+stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_note" id = "marseilles_note" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (see p. 111). Cabs and
+the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the
+large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station.
+At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the
+Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than
+moderate.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">81</span>
+<a name = "page81" id = "page81"> </a>
+<!-- png 116 -->
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name= "lyons_to_nimes" id = "lyons_to_nimes">
+LYONS TO NÎMES.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins,
+Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,
+Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.</p>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Maps, <a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>,
+<a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles to">172</span>
+<b>LYONS</b>: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
+Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9&nbsp;m. from Lyons, pop.
+1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle
+converted into a school. 4&nbsp;m. farther is <a name = "givors_canal"
+id = "givors_canal"><b>Givors-canal</b></a>, where the Nîmes line
+separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;The canal of
+Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13&nbsp;m. long, and is used chiefly by
+the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The
+train now proceeds to Loire, 16½&nbsp;m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
+famous for chestnuts, and then 8&nbsp;m. farther down the Rhône to
+<a name = "ampuis" id = "ampuis"><b>Ampuis</b></a> (opposite Vaugris), pop.
+2000, H.&nbsp;du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and
+possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres
+belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France,
+remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a
+little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3&nbsp;m. farther south by
+rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
+wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31&nbsp;m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay,
+pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4&nbsp;m. from Chavanay by
+coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of
+Virieux castle. 7&nbsp;m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway
+viaduct of 66 arches.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">39¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">132¾</span>
+<a name = "peyraud" id = "peyraud"><b>PEYRAUD</b></a>, pop. 400.
+Junction with line to Annonay, 9&nbsp;m. W., and to Grenoble, 60&nbsp;m.
+E. by Rives and Voreppe. <a name = "annonay" id =
+"annonay"><b>Annonay</b></a>, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on
+the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme
+and the Cance. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Midi, in the principal square,
+occupying the centre of the low town.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The
+Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers
+Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d
+June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one
+of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed
+the best in France. 27&nbsp;m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a
+beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends
+9¾&nbsp;m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. <i>Inn:</i> France. Bourg, as
+the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on
+the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
+<span class = "pagenum">82</span>
+<a name = "page82" id = "page82"> </a>
+<!-- png 117 -->
+covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the
+castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a
+vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered
+with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide
+travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau
+called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends
+to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5&nbsp;m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière
+2&nbsp;m. 17½&nbsp;m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tournon.</span></p>
+
+<p>56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with
+which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is <a name = "tournon"
+id = "tournon"><b>Tournon</b></a>, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de
+l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the
+Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many
+of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the
+Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of
+St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed
+arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach
+daily to <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a>, 5½ hrs., ascending
+all the way (see p.&nbsp;83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.;
+to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W.
+3&nbsp;m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See <a href
+= "#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">65½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">106½</span>
+<a name = "st_peray" id = "st_peray"><b>SAINT PERAY</b></a>, pop. 3000.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for
+Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station,
+situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards
+here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural,
+not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case
+with the other champagnes.</p>
+
+<p>69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by
+the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave,
+La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found.
+2½&nbsp;m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3&nbsp;m.
+Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2&nbsp;m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (<a href =
+"#map46">Map, p.&nbsp;46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">77</span>
+<span class = "miles to">95</span>
+<a name = "la_voulte" id = "la_voulte"><b>LA VOULTE</b></a>, pop. 5000.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat
+stations. A&nbsp;dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the
+steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the
+Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard
+Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert&nbsp;III. de Ventadour in 1582,
+who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and
+the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
+iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
+<span class = "pagenum">83</span>
+<a name = "page83" id = "page83"> </a>
+<!-- png 118 -->
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
+decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Chalvet, 2&nbsp;m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The
+water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily
+from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30&nbsp;m. N.W., 6 hrs.,
+and to St. Pierreville, 24&nbsp;m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places
+separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾&nbsp;m. E. from St. Pierreville, and
+15&nbsp;m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See <a href = "#map46">map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>.) <a name = "st_sauveur" id = "st_sauveur"><b>St.
+Sauveur</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily
+situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high
+rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled
+terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut,
+chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots
+vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is
+itself terraced the greater part of the way. A&nbsp;few miles up the
+river, opposite the village Chalançon, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Astier, is a
+very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, <a name =
+"le_cheilard" id = "le_cheilard"><b>Le Cheilard</b></a>, 2130 ft. above
+the sea, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Courtial. This, the great
+diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow
+streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty
+terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon.
+Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far
+as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges
+northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36&nbsp;m. N.W., by St.
+Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the
+Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22&nbsp;m. E. from Le Puy, near the river
+Lignon, pop. 900. (<a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</span></p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "loire_source_road" id =
+"loire_source_road">
+ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "st_saveur_to_le_beage" id = "st_saveur_to_le_beage"><b>Saint
+Sauveur to Le Beage</b></a> by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and
+Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.
+Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the
+road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. <a name = "st_pierreville" id =
+"st_pierreville"><b>St. Pierreville</b></a>, 1788 ft. above the sea,
+pop. 2100. <i>Inns:</i> Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an
+eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for
+Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the
+course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2&nbsp;m. before
+reaching Marcols is the clean little village of <b>Olbon</b>, on both
+sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H.&nbsp;des Voyageurs, and a
+Temple Protestant. A&nbsp;little farther by the side of the stream is a
+spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is <a name = "marcols" id =
+"marcols"><b>Marcols</b></a>, 3380 ft. above the sea, a&nbsp;small
+village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de l’Union. This is the terminus of the
+stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As
+conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for
+those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to
+spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a
+vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day,
+<span class = "pagenum">84</span>
+<a name = "page84" id = "page84"> </a>
+<!-- png 119 -->
+with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is
+28¼&nbsp;m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols
+6&nbsp;m., Mezillac 11¾&nbsp;m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16&nbsp;m.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep
+terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation,
+is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone
+cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th
+cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A&nbsp;little
+farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to
+Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the
+prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½&nbsp;m. from Mezillac the
+road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of <a name = "lachamp_raphael" id =
+"lachamp_raphael"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél</b></a>, 4364 ft. above the sea.
+Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally
+abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had,
+with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp
+by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark
+abyss. Any lad can show the way.</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "loire_source" id = "loire_source">
+<span class = "headnote">Source of the Loire.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">MONT MEZENC<br>
+and the SOURCE of the LOIRE</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 120 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 84</span>
+<a name = "map84" id = "map84" href = "images/map84.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map84thumb.png" width = "490" height = "253"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "gerbier_de_joncs" id = "gerbier_de_joncs">
+THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the
+road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison
+Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison
+Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,
+which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen
+after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking
+from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The
+<b>Gerbier-de-Joncs</b> (<i>Gerbiarum jugum</i>) is an isolated pointed
+cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above
+the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and
+extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte
+and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running
+first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining
+farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4
+inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of
+a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les
+Etables, 22&nbsp;m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755
+ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to
+Lachamp, 22½&nbsp;m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage" id =
+"lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage</b></a>,
+12½&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been
+ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend
+till about 1¾&nbsp;m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating
+point, about 4600 ft. A&nbsp;little farther the road to the Gerbier
+diverges to the right. Less than 2&nbsp;m. from this the road crosses
+the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St.
+Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Beage. Mezenc.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "le_beage" id = "le_beage"><b>Le Beage</b></a>, pop. 850.
+<i>Inns:</i> La Maison Brun; H.&nbsp;des Voyageurs. A&nbsp;dirty cattle
+and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully
+<span class = "pagenum">85</span>
+<a name = "page85" id = "page85"> </a>
+<!-- png 121 -->
+situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in
+a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the
+mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually
+here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the
+weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making
+on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short
+cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads.
+The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the
+rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace,
+from 2 to 4 inches. A&nbsp;most industrious lace-maker can earn
+1&nbsp;fr. per day. 3¼&nbsp;m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater
+is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of <a name = "mont_mezenc" id =
+"mont_mezenc"><b>Mezenc</b></a> (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the
+best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½&nbsp;m.
+N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the
+direct path. <i>Inns:</i> Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The
+hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea,
+or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc.
+The ascent takes about an hour.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_beage_to_le_puy" id =
+"le_beage_to_le_puy">
+LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the
+opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea,
+and Crouziols, 4½&nbsp;m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le
+Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Monastier.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip space">
+<a name = "le_monastier" id = "le_monastier"><b>LE MONASTIER</b></a>,
+pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. <i>Inns:</i>
+Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11&nbsp;m. N.W. 10¼&nbsp;m.
+S. is Salettes, and 22&nbsp;m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the
+sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,
+connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St.
+Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680,
+and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and
+enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits
+throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a
+semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with
+sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large
+rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a
+string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In
+the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting
+shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint
+Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du
+Monastier”&mdash; “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son
+troupeau”&mdash; the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his
+litany.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road
+is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is
+at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the
+hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the
+<span class = "pagenum">86</span>
+<a name = "page86" id = "page86"> </a>
+<!-- png 122 -->
+village of Arsac, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;des Voyageurs, and about 1&nbsp;m.
+more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the
+fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire
+at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2&nbsp;m. from
+Brives.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Puy. The Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½&nbsp;m. from Lyons, and
+33&nbsp;m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between
+Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. <a href = "#page26">26</a> and <a href
+= "#page46">46</a>), is</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "le_puy" id = "le_puy">Le
+Puy,</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers
+Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2&nbsp;m. from the town.
+<a name = "le_puy_hotels" id = "le_puy_hotels"><i>Hotels:</i></a>
+Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin
+with the <a name = "le_puy_cathedral" id =
+"le_puy_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>. From the high side of the Place
+de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,
+Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone
+pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables
+to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front
+of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the
+portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and
+having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of
+the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill
+from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from
+its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the
+cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of
+the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side
+entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an
+extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of
+it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the
+other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north
+side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an
+arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square,
+with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on
+square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest,
+beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The
+church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427,
+when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and
+restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each,
+excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers.
+Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high
+altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,<a name = "tag_1" id
+= "tag_1" href = "#note_1">*</a> brought from Cairo in 1251, and
+presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed
+in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the
+pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were
+<span class = "pagenum">87</span>
+<a name = "page87" id = "page87"> </a>
+<!-- png 123 -->
+executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large
+picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries
+carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague,
+which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the
+Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its
+protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the
+north portal is the baptistery of <b>St. Jean</b>, built in the 4th
+cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice.</p>
+
+<p class = "footnote">
+<a name = "note_1" id = "note_1" href = "#tag_1">*&nbsp;</a>
+The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the
+child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The
+form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both
+were swathed in two plies of linen.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Puy: Notre Dame de France.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille,
+a&nbsp;mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium.
+On the top is the image of <a name = "notre_dame_de_france" id =
+"notre_dame_de_france"><b>Notre Dame de France</b></a>, 433 ft. above
+the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the
+27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is
+52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5
+ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,
+J.&nbsp;C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90
+steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps
+extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal
+figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is
+seen (2½&nbsp;m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645
+ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is
+the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼&nbsp;m. S.E., Ours Mons.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up
+to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b.&nbsp;1799,
+d.&nbsp;1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux
+is the sculptor of both of them.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aiguilhe.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the
+<a name = "aiguilhe" id = "aiguilhe"><b>Aiguilhe</b></a>, 265 ft. high,
+518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266
+steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael,
+commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The
+present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the
+beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally
+the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural
+paintings. The views are superb.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an
+octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the
+post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower
+which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little
+distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of
+the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin,
+who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of
+Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is
+the <a name = "le_puy_musee" id = "le_puy_musee"><b>Musée</b></a>, open
+on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly
+labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural
+relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments
+belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the
+baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the
+<span class = "pagenum">88</span>
+<a name = "page88" id = "page88"> </a>
+<!-- png 124 -->
+right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman
+antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle
+Ages.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Upstairs is the <a name = "le_puy_gallery" id =
+"le_puy_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. In the centre room are
+portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy
+of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of
+Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died
+at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his
+native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly
+belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer,
+d.&nbsp;1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d.&nbsp;1707; Franck, d.&nbsp;1616;
+Heem, d.&nbsp;1694; Lippi, d.&nbsp;1469; Maes, d.&nbsp;1693; Mieris,
+1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr,
+1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection
+of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among
+other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois,
+Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F.&nbsp;Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de
+France, wife of Charles&nbsp;I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722;
+Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl,
+J.&nbsp;B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace,
+blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and
+villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which
+articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books
+are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche,
+Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice;
+the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day
+she was married to Napoleon&nbsp;I.; also some of her ribbons.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Ours Mons.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is <a name = "ours_mons" id = "ours_mons"><b>Ours
+Mons</b></a>, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The
+prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable;
+“exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great
+variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures,
+belonging to different epochs.”</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langogne" id =
+"le_puy_to_langogne">
+LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map, p. 46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Le Puy</b>, 2045 ft., to <b>Langogne</b>, 2940 ft. above the sea,
+26&nbsp;m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a
+high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is
+about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6&nbsp;m. N. from
+Pradelles. 8&nbsp;m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft.
+From this hamlet a road diverges 8&nbsp;m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft.
+above the sea, pop. 1450. <i>Inn:</i> Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A&nbsp;lace and
+cheese-making village, about 1½&nbsp;m. by a good road from the extinct
+crater of <a name = "le_bouchet" id = "le_bouchet"><b>Le
+Bouchet</b></a>, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres
+and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near <a href =
+"#le_beage">Beage</a> (which see p.&nbsp;85). After Montagnac the coach
+arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12&nbsp;m. S., where the horses are
+changed. Then Sauvetat, 16&nbsp;m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards
+<a name = "pradelles" id = "pradelles"><b>Pradelles</b></a>, 3771 ft.,
+pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21&nbsp;m. from Le Puy and 5&nbsp;m.
+from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the
+omnibus of the Cheval Blanc
+<span class = "pagenum">89</span>
+<a name = "page89" id = "page89"> </a>
+<!-- png 125 -->
+awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St.
+Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½&nbsp;m. from Les Sallettes (see <a href =
+"#map46">map, p.&nbsp;46</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "pradelles_to_mayres" id = "pradelles_to_mayres"><b>Pradelles
+to Mayres</b></a>, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but
+a high and exposed road, passing <a href = "#peyrebelle">Peyrebelle</a>
+(p.&nbsp;95), La Narce, 8¾&nbsp;m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft.
+above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends
+rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance
+into Ardèche.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.
+Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and
+12½&nbsp;m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langeac" id =
+"le_puy_to_langeac">
+LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to <a name =
+"langeac_2" id = "langeac_2"><b>Langeac</b></a> by St. Georges d’Aurac
+is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the
+tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right
+angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from
+Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Espaly. Borne. Darsac.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Le Puy to Langeac</b>, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line
+traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs.
+1&nbsp;m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of <a name = "espaly"
+id = "espaly"><b>Espaly</b></a>, and by the face of basaltic columns
+rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in
+whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite
+side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la
+Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues
+d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of
+volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260
+by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+8¾ m. from Puy is <a name = "borne" id = "borne"><b>Borne</b></a>, 2535
+ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A&nbsp;ramble in the ravine of Borne forms
+a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½&nbsp;m. E. from this
+station, or 3¼&nbsp;m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train.
+The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a
+rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress
+dating from the 11th cent. A&nbsp;stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous)
+leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive
+view.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+13 m. W. from Le Puy is <a name = "darsac" id =
+"darsac"><b>Darsac</b></a>, 2914 ft. above the sea. A&nbsp;small hamlet,
+with a restaurant, the <b>station for Chaise-Dieu</b>, 13¾&nbsp;m. N.,
+fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼&nbsp;m. N., or 10½&nbsp;m. beyond
+Chaise-Dieu.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Chaise-Dieu.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a&nbsp;dirty little
+village, 5&nbsp;m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the
+sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and
+Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay
+chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8&nbsp;m. the
+high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at <a name =
+"chaise_dieu" id = "chaise_dieu"><b>La Chaise-Dieu</b></a>, 3576 ft.
+above the sea, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord.
+A&nbsp;dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church
+participates. Robert, a&nbsp;scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and
+canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of
+N.&nbsp;D.
+<span class = "pagenum">90</span>
+<a name = "page90" id = "page90"> </a>
+<!-- png 126 -->
+du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most
+inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his
+companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at
+Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly
+proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or
+Casa-Dei. Clement&nbsp;VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of
+Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation
+to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site
+formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued
+and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade
+with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the
+horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high,
+attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac
+to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The
+gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under
+the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the
+cloisters, a&nbsp;parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides
+remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and
+traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain
+slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads
+itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the
+aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The
+church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two
+columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular
+projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little
+depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is
+separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved
+cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras
+tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the
+mausoleum of Clement&nbsp;VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands
+folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table
+of black marble.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is
+the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a&nbsp;favourite subject with
+artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait
+of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure
+expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young
+and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects
+and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated
+mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold.
+Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La
+Chaise-Dieu.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "chaise_dieu_to_vichy" id =
+"chaise_dieu_to_vichy">
+La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼&nbsp;m. N. from Darsac, and
+11¼&nbsp;m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is <a name =
+"arlanc" id = "arlanc"><b>Arlanc</b></a>, pop. 4500, <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,
+<span class = "pagenum">91</span>
+<a name = "page91" id = "page91"> </a>
+<!-- png 127 -->
+consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed
+mostly of old houses. A&nbsp;great deal of lace and blond is made
+here.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of <a name = "ambert" id =
+"ambert"><b>Ambert</b></a>, pop. 8000, 43&nbsp;m. N. by rail from Vichy;
+whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez
+mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15&nbsp;m. from
+Ambert, and 11¾&nbsp;m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a
+hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent.
+houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the
+Tour d’Auvergne. 13&nbsp;m. farther N., or 8¾&nbsp;m. S. from Thiers, is
+Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of
+the castle of Courte-Serre. 61&nbsp;m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾&nbsp;m. N.
+from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#vichy">Vichy</a> see p.&nbsp;358; <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#thiers">Thiers</a>, p.&nbsp;367.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The next station west from Darsac by rail (see <a href = "#map46">map,
+p.&nbsp;46</a>) is <a name = "fix_st_geneys" id =
+"fix_st_geneys"><b>Fix-St. Geneys</b></a>, 18&nbsp;m. from Le Puy, 3274
+ft. above the sea, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;des Voyageurs, situated
+on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with
+firs. 2½&nbsp;m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950
+ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½&nbsp;m. farther is Rougeac, with a
+castle 1923 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most westerly station on the line is <a name = "st_georges_daurac"
+id = "st_georges_daurac"><b>St. Georges d’Aurac</b></a>, 1872 ft. above
+the sea, 86½&nbsp;m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.
+58½&nbsp;m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131&nbsp;m. S. by rail is Nîmes
+(see <a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;26</a>). Near the station is the
+inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2&nbsp;m. S.E. Other 2&nbsp;m.
+E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette.
+5½&nbsp;m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on
+a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the
+Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon,
+bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station
+of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½&nbsp;m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from
+St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is <a name = "langeac" id =
+"langeac"><b>Langeac</b></a>, 1690 ft., 63&nbsp;m. S. from Clermont, and
+127&nbsp;m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. <i>Inns:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on
+the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast
+plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the
+town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (<a href
+= "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+15 m. S. from Langeac is <a name = "monistrol" id =
+"monistrol"><b>Monistrol</b>-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop.
+1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the
+river. Coach by a picturesque road to <b>Le Puy</b>, 17&nbsp;m. N.E. by
+St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a
+deep gully between high cliffs. A&nbsp;little way beyond the hamlet of
+Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.
+10&nbsp;m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old
+church. 1¼&nbsp;m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of
+Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and
+Mont Bonzon. Coach from <a name = "monistrol_to_saugues" id =
+"monistrol_to_saugues"><b>Monistrol to Saugues</b></a>, 6½&nbsp;m. W.,
+3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful
+valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument
+<span class = "pagenum">92</span>
+<a name = "page92" id = "page92"> </a>
+<!-- png 128 -->
+called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square
+vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high
+and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the
+mortuary chapel at Valence (see <a href = "#page44">p.&nbsp;44</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Pouzin. Privas.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">81</span>
+<span class = "miles to">91</span>
+<a name = "le_pouzin" id = "le_pouzin"><b>LE POUZIN</b></a>, pop. 3000,
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the
+Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle.
+Junction with line to Privas, 13¼&nbsp;m. W. <a name = "privas" id =
+"privas"><b>Privas</b></a>, pop. 8000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix d’Or; Louvre.
+On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838
+ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the
+Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of
+narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade
+called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of
+the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the
+Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼&nbsp;m. from Privas, on the
+plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis
+XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal
+Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded
+by the brave Montbrun.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières
+the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le
+Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the
+<a href = "#loire_source">Source of the Loire</a> and <a href =
+"#mont_mezenc">Mont Mezenc</a> (see pp.&nbsp;84, 85). Coach also to
+Aubenas, 18&nbsp;m. S.E. (See next page, and <a href = "#map46">map
+p.&nbsp;46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Rochemaure.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">98</span>
+<span class = "miles to">74</span>
+<a name = "rochemaure" id = "rochemaure"><b>ROCHEMAURE</b></a>, pop.
+1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern
+part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the
+steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle.
+There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented
+commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the
+curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms
+of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented
+wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial
+manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a
+needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep,
+like a spear piercing the sky. A&nbsp;narrow path leading so far up will
+be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of
+the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These
+ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive
+edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by
+the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition
+by order of Louis XIII.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">93</span>
+<a name = "page93" id = "page93"> </a>
+<!-- png 129 -->
+
+<p>A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more
+than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top
+of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic
+columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Teil.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">95¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">76¼</span>
+<a name = "le_teil" id = "le_teil"><b>LE TEIL</b></a>, pop. 3200, with
+some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for <a href =
+"#montelimart">Montelimart</a>, 3¼&nbsp;m. E., on the other side of the
+Rhône (p.&nbsp;48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼&nbsp;m. S.W., on the line
+between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch,
+17½&nbsp;m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾&nbsp;m. N.E. from Alais,
+a&nbsp;smaller branch extends 12&nbsp;m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The
+Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps,
+<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and&nbsp;<a
+href = "#map56">56</a>).</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aubenas. Vals.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vogue_to_mayres" id =
+"vogue_to_mayres">
+Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is <a name = "aubenas"
+id = "aubenas"><b>Aubignas</b></a> (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an
+important Roman station. 6¼&nbsp;m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000,
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and
+mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an
+extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the
+town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college,
+the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre
+of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux,
+a&nbsp;village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown.
+(Maps, pages 56 and 46.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits
+passengers. <a name = "vals" id = "vals"><b>VALS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on
+the Volane, famous for its <b>Mineral Waters</b>. <i>Hotels:</i> Des
+Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens.
+In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse;
+Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the
+town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the
+Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs.
+Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane,
+in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry
+and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all
+at the eastern extremity. Near the H.&nbsp;du Parc is the intermittent
+fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises,
+under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little
+beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and
+the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the
+river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so
+pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the
+Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to
+the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove
+paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be
+drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia,
+
+<span class = "pagenum">94</span>
+<a name = "page94" id = "page94"> </a>
+<!-- png 130 -->
+lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda,
+and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Antraigues.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16&nbsp;m. from Privas, is
+<a name = "antraigues" id = "antraigues"><b>Antraigues</b></a>, pop.
+2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow
+three impetuous mountain torrents&mdash;the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From
+the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the
+neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the <a name = "coupe_daizac" id =
+"coupe_daizac"><b>Coupe d’Aizac</b></a>, covered with a beautiful
+reddish lava. <i>Inns:</i> Brousse; Glaise.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "aubenas_to_langogne" id =
+"aubenas_to_langogne">
+AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+(Maps, <a href = "#map56">pp. 56</a> and <a href = "#map46">46</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18&nbsp;m. W. It passes through
+Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is <a name =
+"neyrac_les_bains" id = "neyrac_les_bains"><b>Neyrac-les-Bains</b></a>,
+the Nereisaqua of the Romans. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;des Bains;
+H.&nbsp;Fournier. 2½&nbsp;m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7&nbsp;from Vals,
+and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger,
+containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81°
+Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,
+the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2
+or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2&nbsp;m.
+W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric,
+is <a name = "thueyts" id = "thueyts"><b>Thueyts</b></a>, pop. 2600,
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of
+Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche
+has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of
+basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2&nbsp;m.
+down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of
+arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of
+the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very
+little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants,
+a&nbsp;tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of
+214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the
+extremity of this wall of rock, is the <b>Echelle du Roi</b>,
+a&nbsp;staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft
+or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a
+good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1
+hour.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near
+the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358
+ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mayres.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+5½ m. from Thueyts is <a name = "mayres" id =
+"mayres"><b>Mayres</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inns:</i> France; Commerce.
+1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.
+above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge
+between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For
+Langogne, 22&nbsp;m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From
+Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of
+Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170
+ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½&nbsp;m. farther is
+La Narce, pop. 900. A&nbsp;little beyond, or 26&nbsp;m. from Aubenas and
+<span class = "pagenum">95</span>
+<a name = "page95" id = "page95"> </a>
+<!-- png 131 -->
+14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of <a name = "peyrebelle" id =
+"peyrebelle"><b>Peyrebelle</b></a>, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25
+years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that
+came to their house. Nearly 4&nbsp;m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron,
+pop. 1400.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the
+snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is <a href =
+"#pradelles">Pradelles</a>, 3771 ft., 16&nbsp;m. from Le Puy by coach
+and 5&nbsp;from Langogne (see p.&nbsp;88, and maps, pages <a href =
+"#map27">26</a>, <a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href =
+"#map46">46</a>).</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Prades. Jaujac.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "prades_etc" id = "prades_etc">
+Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat,<br>
+St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+For the main loopline, see <a href = "#map56">map p. 56</a>; for the
+rest, <a href = "#map46">map p.&nbsp;46</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus
+of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take
+passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on
+an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are
+coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with
+chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of
+Jaujac, is <a name = "prades" id = "prades"><b>Prades</b></a>, pop.
+1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Near the railway terminus is the village of <b>Pont-de-la-Baume</b>,
+pop. 900, <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea,
+at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the
+Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in
+the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded
+here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,
+Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is <a name = "jaujac"
+id = "jaujac"><b>Jaujac</b></a>, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop.
+2600. <i>Inn:</i> Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which
+nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is
+lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge,
+and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where
+there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not
+vertical. About ½&nbsp;m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an
+extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this
+valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended
+easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path
+leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike
+those of Vals.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montpezat.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence,
+is <a name = "montpezat" id = "montpezat"><b>Montpezat</b></a>. The road
+from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the
+foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour,
+14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of
+the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115
+ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the
+Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the
+<span class = "pagenum">96</span>
+<a name = "page96" id = "page96"> </a>
+<!-- png 132 -->
+suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best
+specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from
+the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is
+about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Montpezat</b>-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above
+the sea, rising from the Ardèche. <i>Inns:</i> Europe; Poste. This is
+the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in
+the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new
+road La Vestide is 6½&nbsp;m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of
+the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but
+the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the
+village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4&nbsp;m. distant.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "montpezat_to_le_puy" id =
+"montpezat_to_le_puy">
+MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,
+16&nbsp;m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier,
+12&nbsp;m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From
+Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite
+the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North
+is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above
+the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of
+Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of
+Usclades, 9&nbsp;m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road
+ascends to <a href = "#le_beage">Le Beage</a>, 6¼&nbsp;m. N. (see
+p.&nbsp;84).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sainte Eulalie.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by
+Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. <a name = "ste_eulalie" id =
+"ste_eulalie"><b>Sainte Eulalie</b></a>, pop. 650, <i>Inn:</i> Faure, in
+a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2&nbsp;m. S. from
+the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in
+the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source
+of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch
+bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the
+side of the stream (see <a href = "#page84">p.&nbsp;84</a>, and maps pp.
+<a href = "#page46">46</a> and <a href = "#page85">85</a>).</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Ruoms. Largentière.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary">
+Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.</h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½&nbsp;m. N.E. of
+Alais, is <a name = "ruoms" id = "ruoms"><b>Ruoms</b></a>. Station for
+Largentière, 9&nbsp;m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8&nbsp;m. W., and for
+Vallon, 6¼&nbsp;m. S. <a name = "largentiere" id =
+"largentiere"><b>Largentière</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Hotels:</i> Europe;
+France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop.
+5000, on the Cèze, H.&nbsp;Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and
+glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with
+important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated
+in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous
+mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the
+Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.
+Joyeuse, pop. 2300. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Nord; Europe. Situated with its
+suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part
+<span class = "pagenum">97</span>
+<a name = "page97" id = "page97"> </a>
+<!-- png 133 -->
+of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de
+Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an
+Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a
+considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pont d’Arc.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vallon_to_pont_darc" id =
+"vallon_to_pont_darc">
+VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map56">Map, p. 56</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is <a name = "vallon" id =
+"vallon"><b>Vallon</b></a>, pop. 2500. <i>Inns:</i> *H.&nbsp;du Louvre;
+Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the <a name = "pont_darc" id
+= "pont_darc"><b>Pont d’Arc</b></a> is 75 minutes distant by the stony
+road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is
+also the road to the caves. A&nbsp;boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10
+frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is
+3&nbsp;m. from the railway station of <a href = "#st_just">St. Just</a>,
+on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p.&nbsp;98). The
+landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,
+2&nbsp;frs., or for the caves, 5&nbsp;frs., or the boatman for sailing
+down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche,
+composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through
+which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.
+high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.
+There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is
+unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding
+scenery. A&nbsp;lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and
+mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft.
+high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great
+stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them
+is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,
+honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are
+better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other
+scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears
+upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, <a href = "#page54">page
+54</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">102½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">69½</span>
+<a name = "viviers" id = "viviers"><b>VIVIERS</b></a>, pop. 3300.
+<i>Inn:</i> Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road
+parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill
+behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W.
+side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and
+preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to
+Aps, 8&nbsp;m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé,
+pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows
+through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east
+side of the Rhône.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">109½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">62½</span>
+<a name = "bourg_st_andeol" id = "bourg_st_andeol"><b>BOURG-ST.
+ANDEOL</b></a>, pop. 4500. <i>Hotels:</i> Luxembourg; Europe; their
+omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (<a href =
+"#page50">page 50</a>), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le
+Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a&nbsp;church founded in
+the
+<span class = "pagenum">98</span>
+<a name = "page98" id = "page98"> </a>
+<!-- png 134 -->
+11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards
+from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de
+Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About
+20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the
+sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">115</span>
+<span class = "miles to">57</span>
+<a name = "st_just" id = "st_just"><b>ST. JUST</b></a> and St. Marcel
+station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different
+directions. 2½&nbsp;m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop.
+600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A&nbsp;ferry-boat crosses
+the river. On the other side, a&nbsp;little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop.
+450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen
+from St. Martin.</p>
+
+<p>Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m.
+up the river, or 3¾&nbsp;m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price
+depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists
+of a tunnel, 4¼&nbsp;m. long, which here and there widens out into
+spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep,
+slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and
+certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should
+undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels
+are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pont-St. Esprit.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">119</span>
+<span class = "miles to">53</span>
+<a name = "pont_st_esprit" id = "pont_st_esprit"><b>PONT-ST.
+ESPRIT</b></a>, pop. 5000. H.&nbsp;de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière,
+on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière
+<a href = "#page50">page 50</a>.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons
+and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the
+western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place,
+with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge
+are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in
+the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620.
+Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel
+constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
+beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
+pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
+Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.
+Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½&nbsp;m. S.W.) and back 15 frs.
+At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
+inmates. The drive is pleasant (see <a href = "#map56">map,
+page&nbsp;56</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m.
+N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">99</span>
+<a name = "page99" id = "page99"> </a>
+<!-- png 135 -->
+
+<p>7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000.
+H.&nbsp;du Louvre. Omnibus at station. A&nbsp;manufacturing town. Coach
+to Uzès, 17&nbsp;m.&nbsp;W.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">132½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">39½</span>
+<a name = "laudun" id = "laudun"><b>LAUDUN</b></a>, pop. 2200, about 2½
+m. west from the station, and 10&nbsp;m. from Orange, is built on a hill
+350 ft. high. The vineyards in the neighbourhood produce a good white
+wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½&nbsp;m. west, by Connaux, St.
+Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and Mejannes; small and uninteresting
+towns (see <a href = "#map27">map, p.&nbsp;26</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Roquemaure. Pont-d’Avignon.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">137½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">34½</span>
+<a name = "roquemaure" id = "roquemaure"><b>ROQUEMAURE</b></a>, pop.
+3100. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;du Nord; H.&nbsp;du Midi. Omnibus at station.
+Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the island of
+Mémar, 1¼&nbsp;m. long. The best part of this curious old town is in the
+neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public promenade with
+large trees, the great embankment to protect the town from the invasions
+of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of which the most
+remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point of a great
+rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the village.
+Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the Rhône, has a
+dingy and untidy appearance. Clement&nbsp;V., first Pope of Avignon,
+died here in 1314. 5&nbsp;m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good wine
+is made.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">144¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">27¼</span>
+<a name = "pont_avignon" id = "pont_avignon"><b>PONT-D’AVIGNON</b></a>,
+station on the west side of the Rhône for <a href =
+"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p.&nbsp;63). Omnibuses from the hotels await
+passengers. The omnibus between Avignon and Villeneuve passes the
+station every hour. Tram every ¼ between the station and Avignon.</p>
+
+<p>7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône,
+at a considerable distance from its station. 3¾&nbsp;m. farther is
+Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the
+ruins of a castle. (<a href = "#map66">Map, page&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">159¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">12¼</span>
+<a name = "remoulins" id = "remoulins"><b>REMOULINS</b></a>, pop. 1400,
+with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to Uzès, 12½&nbsp;m. N.W.
+On this line, 3¼&nbsp;m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is
+Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.
+(For <a href = "#pont_du_gard">description</a> and <a href =
+"#avignon_to_nimes">directions</a> see pp. 64 and 104, and <a href =
+"#map66">map page&nbsp;66</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Uzès.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "uzes" id = "uzes"><b>UZÈS</b></a>, pop. 5600, <i>Inn</i>
+Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by picturesque calcareous rocks. From
+the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and
+having gone down the avenue ascend the double stair leading up to the
+beautiful terrace, on which, to the left, stands the Cathedral, and to
+the right, projecting from the
+<span class = "pagenum">100</span>
+<a name = "page100" id = "page100"> </a>
+<!-- png 136 -->
+balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which
+Racine resided with his uncle, a&nbsp;canon of the cathedral. Below, in
+the deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the
+Roman aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a
+square basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of
+which five are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by
+twin open arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled
+roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of
+the church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat
+of the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the
+most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with
+turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge,
+surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The
+octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the
+École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St.
+Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret
+of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir
+(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the
+Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and
+Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le
+Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs
+d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1&nbsp;fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour
+de la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower,
+11th cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and
+in front the façade, 16th cent., by P.&nbsp;Delorme. The ground-floor of
+the “Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is
+a large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross
+of copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,
+vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best
+wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides
+the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols,
+17&nbsp;m. E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19&nbsp;m.
+N. from the Pont d’Avignon, and 7½&nbsp;m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sernhac-Lédenon.</span></p>
+
+<p>After Remoulins the train halts at the station <a name =
+"sernhac_ledenon" id = "sernhac_ledenon"><b>Sernhac-Lédenon</b></a>.
+<b>Lédenon</b>, pop. 700, is about 2&nbsp;m. W. from the station, and
+<b>Sernhac</b>, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7&nbsp;m. from
+Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½&nbsp;m. nearer,
+Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with a handsome modern church, and in the
+cemetery the ruins of the chapel of St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from
+railway.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">101</span>
+<a name = "page101" id = "page101"> </a>
+<!-- png 138 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nimes" id = "nimes">
+<span class = "headnote">Nîmes.</span></a></p>
+
+<!-- png 137 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 101</span>
+<a name = "map101" id = "map101" href = "images/map101.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map101thumb.png" width = "469" height = "371"
+alt = "plan of Nîmes" title = "NÎMES"></a></p>
+
+
+<p>172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31&nbsp;m. N.E.
+from Montpellier by Gallargues, 17&nbsp;m. W. from Tarascon, 80&nbsp;m.
+N.W. from Marseilles, and 450&nbsp;m. S.E. from Paris by
+Clermont-Ferrand, is</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans">NÎMES,</h5>
+
+<p>population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea.
+A&nbsp;flight of steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the
+station. At the foot of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty
+comfortable room 2&nbsp;frs., dinner with wine 3&nbsp;frs. The trams
+start from in front of the house. In the town are: On the Esplanade, the
+H.&nbsp;Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a
+garden, the H.&nbsp;du Midi or Durand, from 9 to 12 frs. Fronting the
+amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to 10 frs. Opposite the
+Maison Carrée, the H.&nbsp;Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the most conveniently
+situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses await passengers at
+the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. du Grand Cours,
+between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph Office in the
+Place de la Salamandre, a&nbsp;small “Place” off the B. des Calquières.
+Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new church of
+St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end of the B.
+des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sights.</i>&mdash;The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the
+Roman Baths. <i>Cab Stands</i> are found at the station, at the
+Amphitheatre, and at the Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2&nbsp;frs. per
+hour.</p>
+
+<p>A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the
+Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble
+colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the
+Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the
+pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with
+its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and
+the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nîmes: Amphitheatre.</span></p>
+
+<p>The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman <a name = "nimes_amphitheatre"
+id = "nimes_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a>, the most perfect
+extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437
+ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building
+are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches
+being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an
+attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained
+the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the
+upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being
+roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching
+<span class = "pagenum">102</span>
+<a name = "page102" id = "page102"> </a>
+<!-- png 139 -->
+from side to side. There were four entrances, one facing each of the
+cardinal points of the compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats
+in 4 zones, capable of accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators.
+The lowest zone corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the
+galleries. The present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c.,
+opposite No. 8 Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is
+under the fifth arch west. No description can express the sensation
+experienced from contemplating this vast Roman structure from the
+highest tier or from the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it
+must be remembered that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent
+step might have serious consequences. The date of the building is
+uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured
+to have been the founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress,
+the Castrum Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the
+8th cent., till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died
+in 715.</p>
+
+<p>On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine,
+with, on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including
+the Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum,
+containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the
+neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other
+pictures, a&nbsp;Magdalene by Guido; A&nbsp;Holy Family, a&nbsp;Head of
+John the Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A&nbsp;Head of a
+Girl and a Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of
+his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles&nbsp;I. laid out in
+his coffin, by Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress
+experimenting on a slave with the poison they were preparing for
+Britannicus,” by Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by
+Gérard Dow, Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van
+den Welde, and Wouvermans.</p>
+
+<p>At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with
+frescoes on gold and blue grounds by H.&nbsp;and P.&nbsp;Flandrin.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nîmes: La Maison Carrée. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them <a name =
+"nimes_maison_carree" id = "nimes_maison_carree"><b>La Maison
+Carrée</b></a>, a&nbsp;beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably
+part of the Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending
+east and west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed
+to have been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a
+platform, and is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30
+Roman-Corinthian columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll
+frieze, sculptured dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are
+attached,
+<span class = "pagenum">103</span>
+<a name = "page103" id = "page103"> </a>
+<!-- png 140 -->
+excepting the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the
+railing are mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.</p>
+
+<p>Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral <a name =
+"nimes_cathedral" id = "nimes_cathedral"><b>St. Castor</b></a>, built in
+the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The most
+venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of stone.
+A&nbsp;delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends
+under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by brackets with
+acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the
+interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior
+frieze.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nîmes: Roman Baths. Tourmagne. Fort.</span></p>
+
+<p>N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases
+and statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane
+trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the
+temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built <span class =
+"smallroman">B.C.</span> 24, of huge carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone,
+and reduced to its present state in 1577. The little of the ornamental
+work that remains is very much mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected
+from the troublesome winds of Nîmes, are the <a name =
+"nimes_roman_baths" id = "nimes_roman_baths"><b>Roman Baths</b></a>,
+about 12 ft. below the level of the gardens, the vaulting being
+supported on small columns, over which rise open stone balustrades.
+Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies them, as placid but
+somewhat larger than the Fontaine of <a href = "#vaucluse">Vaucluse</a>
+(p.&nbsp;65).</p>
+
+<p>From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier
+to an octagonal structure called the <a name = "nimes_tourmagne" id =
+"nimes_tourmagne"><b>Tourmagne</b></a>, 90 ft. high, erected before the
+Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was originally
+filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in search of
+treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in 1843. The view
+from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.</p>
+
+<p>Eastward from the Tourmagne is the <a name = "nimes_fort" id =
+"nimes_fort"><b>Fort</b></a>, built by Louis XIV., now the town prison.
+On the western side of the fort are the remains of the reservoir,
+<i>castellum divisorium</i>, which received the water brought by the
+canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings
+water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the
+fort.</p>
+
+<p>In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft.
+high, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte
+d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of
+the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the
+Rue Carrètérie. (See <a href = "#map101">plan</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia
+<span class = "pagenum">104</span>
+<a name = "page104" id = "page104"> </a>
+<!-- png 141 -->
+Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the
+reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of
+Strabo the “<b>Jus Latii</b>,” and therefore was independent of the
+Roman governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was
+exported to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal
+emporium in the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in
+Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de
+Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who
+introduced tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis
+Philippe, were born at Nîmes.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pont-du-Gard.</span></p>
+
+<p>13½ miles from Nîmes is the <a name = "pont_du_gard" id =
+"pont_du_gard"><b>Pont-du-Gard</b></a>, built by the Romans in the reign
+of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25&nbsp;m. long, which, from the
+neighbourhood of <a href = "#uzes">Uzès</a> (page 99), brought the
+waters of the Eure and Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which
+only vestiges now remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks
+of the river Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total
+height above the bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are
+formed of hewn stones, placed together without the aid of any cement;
+but the mason work underneath the channel of the third or top story is
+of rough stones cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The
+first or lowest row consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each,
+except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven
+arches of the same dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches
+of 15 ft. span. A&nbsp;stair from the right bank of the river leads up
+to the watercourse above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking
+boldness of its design this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and
+superiority over all the other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider,
+and the piers in proportion lighter, and had the same principle been
+extended so as to have formed it of one single row from top to bottom,
+it would have equalled in the skill and disposition of its materials the
+more judicious and more elegant structures of modern times (see <a href
+= "#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a>, p.&nbsp;77). Take ticket to
+Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,
+take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another
+ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins
+station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under <a href =
+"#avignon_to_nimes">Avignon</a>, p.&nbsp;64).</p>
+
+<p>79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (p.&nbsp;111), passing
+<a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a>, 17&nbsp;m. (p.&nbsp;66), and <a href
+= "#arles">Arles</a>, 25&nbsp;m. (p.&nbsp;68).</p>
+
+
+<!-- png 142 -->
+<span class = "pagenum">105</span>
+<a name = "page105" id = "page105"> </a>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Valleraugue.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nimes_to_millau" id = "nimes_to_millau">
+NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+See <a href = "#map27">Map, p. 26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is <a name = "vigan" id =
+"vigan"><b>Vigan</b></a>, whence coach 43&nbsp;m. W., 9 hrs., to Millau,
+on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this
+line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque.
+27&nbsp;m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800,
+junction with line to Lezan, 9&nbsp;m. N., and thence 4½&nbsp;m. E. to
+Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9&nbsp;m. W. from Lezan is
+St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this
+the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½&nbsp;m. from Vigan,
+on the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H.&nbsp;Croix Blanche,
+omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½&nbsp;m.
+farther is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron
+mines. 4&nbsp;m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line
+crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre
+follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. <i>Inns:</i>
+Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the
+Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à
+Clastercamp à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is
+860 ft. above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with
+terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to
+nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved
+streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the
+post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the
+neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,
+on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the
+Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are
+the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Valleraugue.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Coach daily to <a name = "valleraugue" id =
+"valleraugue"><b>Valleraugue</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> Aresque, 14&nbsp;m.
+N., in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded
+valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron
+mountains towards the S.&nbsp;The principal source of the Hérault is a
+little higher, towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent
+is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the
+culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The
+source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of
+the Tarn to the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent
+fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Larzac.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "le_vigan_to_millau" id = "le_vigan_to_millau"><b>Le Vigan to
+Millau</b></a>, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the
+coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines.
+From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m., and Arre,
+6¼&nbsp;m., from Vigan. A&nbsp;little higher up the coach leaves by a
+tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the
+village Alzon, 12½&nbsp;m. from Vigan, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> the
+Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of
+7&nbsp;m. the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;du Nord, producing excellent
+<span class = "pagenum">106</span>
+<a name = "page106" id = "page106"> </a>
+<!-- png 143 -->
+pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern
+side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and
+mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other
+side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is
+St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, <i>Inn:</i> Commerce, 23&nbsp;m. from
+Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the
+Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a&nbsp;poor
+village, on an eminence, 16&nbsp;m. from Millau. Shortly afterwards the
+diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of <a name = "larzac" id =
+"larzac"><b>Larzac</b></a>, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the
+village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7&nbsp;m. W. is
+Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez.</p>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div itinerary -->
+
+<h3><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">THE RIVIERA.</a></h3>
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/old/files/riviera.html b/old/files/riviera.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..da2804c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/files/riviera.html
@@ -0,0 +1,10782 @@
+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>The South of France&mdash;East Half (The Riviera)</title>
+<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+
+<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
+text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
+popups</ins>.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a>
+(<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)<br>
+<br>
+The Riviera: <a href = "#part2_contents">Itineraries</a><br>
+The Riviera: <a href = "#part2_maps">Maps</a><br>
+The Riviera: <a href = "#riviera">Text</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a>
+and
+<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part2_contents" id = "part2_contents">ITINERARY</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 107&ndash;280)</span></h4>
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary">THE RIVIERA.</h4>
+
+<p><a href = "#riviera"><b>The Riviera.</b></a> Hotels, productions,
+climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page107">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#marseilles"><b>Marseilles.</b></a> Hotels, trams, sights,
+excursions
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page111">111</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#marseilles_to_menton"><b>MARSEILLES to MENTON.</b></a>
+The French Riviera
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page122">122</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Marseilles to <a href = "#toulon">Toulon</a>, passing several pretty
+little towns, of which the most important is <a href = "#la_seyne">La
+Seyne</a> (p.&nbsp;123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the
+neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The
+most start from the <a href = "#toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a>
+(pp. 124 and <a href = "#mourillon">129</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Toulon to <a href = "#dardenne">Dardenne</a> from the “Place” to the W.
+of the Place Puget (<a href = "#toulon_omnibus">p.&nbsp;128</a>), to
+<a href = "#hyeres">Hyères</a> from the <a href =
+"#toulon_place_puget">Place Puget</a> (pp.&nbsp;124, 133), <a href =
+"#cap_brun">Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite</a> from the <a href =
+"#toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a> (p.&nbsp;128), to <a href =
+"#le_pradet">Le Pradet</a> from the Place d’Italie (<a href =
+"#page128">p.&nbsp;128</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+<a href = "#toulon_diligences">Toulon to Meounes</a> and Brignoles by
+Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a
+picturesque country (p.&nbsp;129), <a href =
+"#toulon_to_collobrieres">to Collobrières</a> by La Crau and Pierrefeu
+(p.&nbsp;130).</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Steamer to <a href = "#la_seyne">La Seyne</a> (pp. 124, 127), to <a href
+= "#st_mandrier">St. Mandrier</a> (p.&nbsp;127), to the <a href =
+"#iles_dor">Iles d’Hyères or d’Or</a> (<a href =
+"#toulon_quai_port">pp.&nbsp;124</a>, 131).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#iles_dor"><b>The Iles d’Or.</b></a> Porquerolles,
+Port-Cros, Ile du Levant
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page131">131</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#toulon_to_hyeres"><b>Toulon to Hyères</b></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page132">132</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#hyeres"><b>Hyères.</b></a> Hotels, cabs, drives,
+stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page133">133</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Hyères to <a href = "#les_salins">Les Salins</a>, <a href =
+"#la_plage">La Plage</a> and the peninsula of <a href =
+"#giens">Giens</a> (p.&nbsp;140); to Carqueyranne by <a href =
+"#pomponiana">Pomponiana</a> (p.&nbsp;141); to <a href =
+"#bormes">Bormes</a> and Lavandou (p.&nbsp;142); by coach to <a href =
+"#st_tropez">St. Tropez</a> (p.&nbsp;134); whence steamer to <a href =
+"#st_raphael">St. Raphael</a> (p.&nbsp;147); or coach to <a href =
+"#le_luc">Le Luc</a> (p.&nbsp;144).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#la_pauline"><b>La Pauline.</b></a> Diligence and train to
+Hyères
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#carnoules"><b>Carnoules.</b></a> Carnoules to Gardanne by
+rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page142">142</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#le_luc"><b>Le Luc.</b></a> Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach,
+across the Maure mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page144">144</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#les_arcs">Les Arcs</a> to <a href =
+"#draguignan">Draguignan</a></b> by rail. From Draguignan diligences
+start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at
+these towns with other diligences
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page145">145</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#cannes"><b>Cannes</b></a> to <a href =
+"#auribeau">Auribeau,</a> (p. 156), to <a href = "#cannet">Cannet,</a>
+(p.&nbsp;154), to <a href = "#cap_antibes">Cap d’Antibes</a>
+(p.&nbsp;154), to <a href = "#castelaras">Castelaras</a> (p.&nbsp;156),
+to <a href = "#la_croisette">Croisette</a> (p.&nbsp;154), to <a href =
+"#croix_des_gardes">Croix des Gardes</a> (p.&nbsp;155), to <a href =
+"#esterel">Estérel</a> (p.&nbsp;155), to <a href = "#grasse">Grasse</a>
+(p.&nbsp;160), to the <a href = "#iles_lerins">Iles de Lerins</a>
+(p.&nbsp;156), to <a href = "#mougins">Mougins</a> (p.&nbsp;156), to
+<a href = "#napoule">Napoule</a> and <a href = "#theoule">Theoule</a>
+(p.&nbsp;155), to <a href = "#pegomas">Pégomas</a> (p.&nbsp;156), to
+<a href = "#st_cassien">St. Cassien</a> (p.&nbsp;155), to <a href =
+"#vallauris">Vallauris</a> by the Golfe de Jouan and <a href =
+"#la_californie">Californie</a> (p.&nbsp;152).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#grasse_to_cagnes"><b>Grasse</b> to Cagnes</a> by Le Bar,
+the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p.&nbsp;163), to <a href =
+"#digne">Digne</a> by St. Vallier and <a href =
+"#castellane">Castellane</a> (p.&nbsp;165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx
+and <a href = "#manosque">Manosque</a> (p.&nbsp;166).</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#nice_to_cuneo"><b>Nice to St. Martin Lantosque</b></a> by
+coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page180">180</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice to <a href = "#puget_theniers">Puget-Theniers</a></b> and
+<a href = "#st_sauveur">Saint Sauveur</a> by coach. From St. Sauveur an
+excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to <a href =
+"#st_etienne_2">St. Etienne</a>; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (<a
+href = "#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#nice_to_cuneo"><b>Nice to Cuneo</b></a> by the tunnel of
+the Col di Tenda
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page182">182</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#savona_to_turin"><b>Savona to Turin</b></a> by Carru,
+Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N.
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page183">183</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#beaulieu">Beaulieu</a> to <a href =
+"#port_st_jean">Port St. Jean</a></b> and the Lighthouse&mdash;a
+pleasant walk
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#monaco_monte_carlo">Monte Carlo</a> to <a href =
+"#nice">Nice</a></b> by the coast-road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page189">189</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#monaco">Monaco</a> to <a href = "#la_turbie">La
+Turbie</a></b> and the <a href = "#tete_de_chien">Tête de Chien</a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page191">191</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#menton_to_genoa"><b>MENTON to GENOA</b></a>&mdash;the
+western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page200">200</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#bordighera"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Bordighera</span></a>, up the valley of the Nervia, <span
+class = "smallcaps">to <a href = "#pigna">Pigna</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page201">201</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#san_romolo_to_mt_bignone"><span class = "smallcaps">San
+Remo to Monte Bignone</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page205">205</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#genoa_to_pisa">GENOA to PISA</a> and
+LEGHORN</b>&mdash;the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page219">219</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#avenza"><b>Avenza to Carrara</b></a> by rail&mdash;a very
+easy and interesting excursion
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page222">222</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#pisa_to_florence"><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to
+Florence</span></a> by Pontedera and Empoli (<a href = "#map199">map,
+p.&nbsp;199</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#pisa_to_florence"><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to
+Florence</span></a> by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page227">227</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#lucca_baths"><span class = "smallcaps">Lucca to the Baths
+of Lucca</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page230">230</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#florence_to_vallombrosa"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Florence to Vallombrosa</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page277">277</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#genoa_to_turin"><span class = "smallcaps">Genoa to
+Turin</span></a> by Alessandria&mdash;a very interesting railway journey
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page279">279</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<h6 class = "sans">END OF THE RIVIERA.</h6>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part2_maps" id = "part2_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 107&ndash;280)</span></h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map155">155</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cannes</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map149">149</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Corniche Road</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map185">185</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as
+well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice
+and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the
+railway.</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map contains also the <b>Environs</b> of Nice, Monaco, and
+Menton.</p>
+
+<p><b>Estérel Mountains</b>, or <b>Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map146">146</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Florence</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map234">234</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza
+Michelangiolo.</p>
+
+<p><b>Galleria degli Uffizi</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map237">237</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both
+sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi
+straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace
+by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.</p>
+
+<p><b>Genoa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map214">214</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyères</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the
+environs of both towns are given on the same map.</p>
+
+<p><b>Italian Riviera</b>, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map199">199</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The
+French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts
+on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to
+Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”</p>
+
+<p><b>Leghorn</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map226">226</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map113">113</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Marseilles to Cannes</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map123">123</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and
+in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which,
+from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
+are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which
+the largest is Porquerolles.</p>
+
+<p><b>Nice</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map171">171</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Pisa</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map224">224</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided
+to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo
+or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
+cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain
+over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.</p>
+
+<p><b>Savona to Rapallo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map211">211</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano,
+Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Durance to the Var and San Remo</b>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map163">163</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior,
+approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice.
+From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.</p>
+
+<p><b>The Italian Riviera</b> or north-west Italy, including the
+railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map199"><ins class = "correction" title
+= "variously indexed as 199, 200">200</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Thermometer</b>, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#thermometer">107</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Toulon</b>, Environs of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map129">129</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small
+steamers sailing from the port.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+<div class = "itinerary">
+
+<!-- png 144 duplicates map on 26/27 -->
+
+<span class = "pagenum">107</span>
+<a name = "page107" id = "page107"> </a>
+<!-- png 145 -->
+
+<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "riviera" id = "riviera">
+THE RIVIERA.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary">HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.</h5>
+
+<p class = "illustration float">
+<a name = "thermometer" id = "thermometer">
+<img src = "images/thermometer.gif" width = "91" height = "536"
+alt = "thermometer in Fahrenheit and Centigrade"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">The Riviera</span> is a strip of land
+extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of
+the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two
+portions&mdash;the Riviera from Hyères to Genoa, 203 miles long; and the
+Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_climate" id =
+"riviera_climate">
+Temperature.</a></span>
+The milder and more frequented of the two is the former&mdash;the
+Western Riviera&mdash;which has been subjected to most careful and
+minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified
+according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203
+miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in
+all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from
+each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some
+peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity
+being more often accidental and social&mdash;such as the people met
+with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little
+things which exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and
+well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of
+temperature. None of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are
+sufficiently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds
+when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges
+have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the
+streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold
+winds, and all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against
+them&mdash;the more
+<span class = "pagenum">108</span>
+<a name = "page108" id = "page108"> </a>
+<!-- png 146 -->
+sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is
+the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous
+<b>Mistral</b>, a&nbsp;north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera
+feels like a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean
+winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères,
+considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of
+San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are
+December and January. With February the temperature commences to rise
+progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is
+the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_vegetation" id =
+"riviera_vegetation">
+Vegetation.</a></span>
+“In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the
+long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their
+appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are
+quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue
+hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the
+olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the
+hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the Mediterranean
+heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, convolvuli,
+serapiases, and gladioli.” &mdash;<i>H.&nbsp;S. Roberton</i>. There is a
+much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm
+flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the
+midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the
+orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (<i>Schinus molle</i>),
+the camphor tree (<i>Ligustrum ovalifolium</i>), the locust tree
+(<i>Ceratona siliqua</i>), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and
+different species of the Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia.
+In marshy places the common bamboo (<i>Arundo donax</i>) attains a great
+height; while the <i>Sedum dasyphyllum</i>, the aloe, and the Opuntium
+or prickly-pear, clothe the dry rocky banks with verdure. The most
+important tree commercially is the olive, which occupies the lower part
+of the mountains and immense tracts in the valleys. The higher
+elevations are divided among the cork tree (<i>Quercus suber</i>), the
+Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the chestnut tree. The
+Japanese medlar (<i>Eriobotrya japonica</i>) is common in the orchards,
+flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the exception of
+the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees ripen their
+fruit too late for the winter resident.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "riviera_cost_living" id =
+"riviera_cost_living">
+<span class = "headnote"><i>The Riviera:</i>
+Cost of Living.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael,
+Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s.
+or 9s. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a
+substantial meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin
+<span class = "pagenum">109</span>
+<a name = "page109" id = "page109"> </a>
+<!-- png 147 -->
+ordinaire) to both. In some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day
+is as low as 6s. If two are together, especially two ladies or a
+gentleman and his wife, an excellent plan is to take a furnished room,
+which, with a south exposure and good furniture, ought to cost about £2
+per month. They can easily prepare their own breakfast, and they can get
+their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apartments should
+be taken, which vary from £2 to £30 per month. For the season, from
+October to May, furnished apartments are let at prices varying from £18
+to £100. As a general rule it is best to alight at some hotel, and,
+while on the spot, to select either the pension or apartments, as no
+description can give an adequate idea of the state of the drains nor of
+the people of the house. A&nbsp;maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month,
+a&nbsp;cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids
+are sold by the litre, equal to nearly a quart of four (not six) to the
+gallon. Solids are sold by the kilogramme, or, as it is generally
+called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. 3¼&nbsp;oz.</p>
+
+<p>Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton
+cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A&nbsp;good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs
+when at their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the
+litre. The best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese
+there are a great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the
+Roquefort and the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from
+2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_fish" id =
+"riviera_fish">
+<i>The Riviera:</i> Fish.<br>
+Vegetables.</a></span>
+Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the coast are: the
+Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or Bass, the
+Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard (Grondin), the
+John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the Conger are very
+fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior to those caught
+in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. <a name =
+"riviera_vegetables" id = "riviera_vegetables">Good vegetables</a> can
+be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage,
+cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and artichokes. The cardon
+(<i>Cynara cardunculus</i>) and salsifis (<i>Tragopogon porrifolius</i>)
+are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon tastes like
+celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes are of good
+quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the stations are
+English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and
+grocers.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "riviera_advantages" id =
+"riviera_advantages">
+<span class = "headnote"><i>The Riviera:</i>
+Advantages.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the
+Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this
+region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine
+which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun
+<span class = "pagenum">110</span>
+<a name = "page110" id = "page110"> </a>
+<!-- png 148 -->
+often rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a
+brightness and warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then
+sinks without a cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps,
+displaying in his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints
+which characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light,
+a&nbsp;southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a
+softness of outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy
+description. In the early stages of phthisis, and especially when the
+patient is young and active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden
+exposure, this cheering influence is most beneficial. It is of great
+importance that, while taking the needful care of himself, he should not
+degenerate at an early age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as
+an every-day increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that
+under the influence of medicine and climate a large number of these
+patients gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with
+due care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never
+neglect to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience
+and advice with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and
+may often prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in
+unhealthy localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added,
+that patients should bring with them a letter from their physician
+describing their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.</p>
+
+<p>The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then
+there is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny
+walks there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and
+Bordighera.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+<i>The Riviera:</i>
+Sea-bathing. Doctors’ Fees.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "riviera_sea_bathing" id =
+"riviera_sea_bathing"><i>Sea-bathing</i></a> on the Riviera may be
+continued with advantage by many during the greater part of the winter
+season. As the rise and fall of the tide are so trifling, the beach is
+always in a fit state for the bather. The water of the Mediterranean is
+more highly mineralised than that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per
+cent of common salt.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "riviera_doctors" id = "riviera_doctors"><i>Doctors’
+Fees.</i></a>&mdash;French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10
+frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20
+frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients.
+An extra charge is made for night work.</p>
+
+<p>Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy,
+tea, arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a
+little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary
+wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and
+should always be watered.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">111</span>
+<a name = "page111" id = "page111"> </a>
+<!-- png 149 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 151 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 113</span>
+<a name = "map113" id = "map113" href = "images/map113.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map113thumb.png" width = "341" height = "548"
+alt = "plan of Marseilles"></a>
+</p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "marseilles" id = "marseilles">
+MARSEILLES.</a></h5>
+
+<p><b>MARSEILLES</b>, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6
+hrs. 37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice
+5 hrs. 27 min. 536½&nbsp;m. S. from Paris, 190¼&nbsp;m. S. from Lyons,
+120½&nbsp;m. W. from Cannes, and 140&nbsp;m. W. from Nice. On the
+departure side of the railway station is the <b>Terminus Hotel</b>
+(dear). The hotel omnibuses await passengers. Call out loudly the name
+of the hotel desired, to which the driver of its omnibus will
+respond.</p>
+
+<p>A plentiful supply of <a name = "marseilles_cabs" id =
+"marseilles_cabs"><b>Cabs</b></a> is both at the railway and the
+custom-house station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is
+furnished with an official tariff, which, though constantly changing,
+may be stated to be&mdash;Between 6 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the
+course, 1&nbsp;fr.; the hour, 2&nbsp;frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼
+fr.; the hour, 2¼ frs. From midnight to 6 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30 kilo.,
+or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each passenger
+1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_hotels" id =
+"marseilles_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>&mdash;In the Rue Cannebière,
+ascending from the Port, are very fine <b>Cafés</b>, and in the eastern
+continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the best <b>Hotels</b>. The Hôtel
+du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles; and the Hôtel Marseilles;
+all near each other, and charging from 12 to 20 frs. per day.</p>
+
+<p>Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R.
+Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between
+the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a&nbsp;comfortable house;
+on the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the
+Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R.&nbsp;Vacon, the *Hôtel des
+Colonies.</p>
+
+<p>In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand
+and an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of
+which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms,
+2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de
+l’Europe, a&nbsp;“maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including
+service, cost 2&nbsp;frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the
+neighbouring restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is
+G.&nbsp;Restaurant des Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the
+Restaurant Bouches du Rhône, a&nbsp;cheap house. The other second-class
+houses in the Cours Belsunce which can be recommended are&mdash;the
+Californie; Deux Mondes; Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel
+du Cours is good also, but it is only a “maison meublée.” The
+continuation of the Cours Belsunce is called the Cours St. Louis, where
+a flower-market
+<span class = "pagenum">112</span>
+<a name = "page112" id = "page112"> </a>
+<!-- png 150 -->
+is held. Just off this Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good,
+and clean house, the hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to
+3&nbsp;frs.; dinner, à la carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and
+cheap house, the Hôtel Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for
+which either a cab or the general omnibus must be taken at the
+station.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Steamboats. Custom-House.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_steamers" id =
+"marseilles_steamers"><i>Steamboats.</i></a>&mdash;The steamers of the
+Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et C<sup>ie</sup>, of Fraissinet et
+C<sup>ie</sup>, of the P. and O.&nbsp;Navigation Co., etc., arrive and
+depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The <a name =
+"marseilles_custom_house" id =
+"marseilles_custom_house">custom-house</a> is at the north end of the
+dock, and just outside the dock-gates are porters and a large cab-stand.
+The custom-house contains one waiting-room for the first and second
+class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their
+baggage examined have to pay 6 sous at the end of the baggage-room for
+each box, for which they receive an acknowledgment. A&nbsp;tramway runs
+from No. 1 Quai Joliette to Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue
+Cannebière by the R. de la République. There are no hotels near the
+steamboat station.</p>
+
+<p>Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the
+<b>Château d’If</b>, 8&nbsp;frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small
+steamers make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same
+place, but do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this
+part of the quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of
+oranges and other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1&nbsp;in plan) on
+the port, the Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles
+opposite, 1 sou. At the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and
+the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin
+Carénage, by the side of Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the
+interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up
+to Notre Dame.</p>
+
+<p>The principal Temple Protestant is in the R.&nbsp;Vincent, No. 2.
+There is another in the R.&nbsp;Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post
+Office at No. 53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor,
+opposite the entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour.
+Anglican chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and
+parallel to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the
+École des Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.</p>
+
+<p>The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue
+Noailles.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Sights. Trams.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_sights" id =
+"marseilles_sights"><b>Sights.</b></a>&mdash;Palais Longchamp, an
+artistic edifice, containing the Picture Gallery and the <b>Natural
+History Museum</b>; free. Closed on Mondays and every day between 12 and
+2 (see <a href = "#marseilles_longchamp">p.&nbsp;114</a>). Near the
+<span class = "pagenum">113</span>
+<a name = "page113" id = "page113"> </a>
+<!-- png 152 -->
+Palais is the Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. <a href =
+"#marseilles_notre_dame">Notre Dame de la Garde</a> (p.&nbsp;116). The
+shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A&nbsp;drive on the
+Corniche road.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the <a name = "marseilles_trams" id =
+"marseilles_trams"><b>Trams</b></a> the most important starts from the
+left of the statue in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des
+Fleurs and the Prado to its Bonneveine terminus, a&nbsp;little beyond
+the racecourse. Just behind the Bonneveine terminus is the <a name =
+"marseilles_borely" id = "marseilles_borely"><b>Château Borély</b></a>,
+containing the Musée d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician
+relics found in the neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the
+Phoenician origin of Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the
+ground-floor are Roman mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery,
+mummies; and in the end room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription,
+regulating the tariff of the prices to be paid to the priests for
+sacrifices in the temple of Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique
+glass, necklaces, fayence from Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold
+jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18
+ft. in diameter.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Corniche. Bouillabaisse.</span></p>
+
+<p>Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de
+Rome, near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the <a name =
+"marseilles_corniche" id = "marseilles_corniche"><b>Corniche</b></a>
+road, considered the most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr.
+The gardens and pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are
+due to the irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing
+establishments on the Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of
+the restaurants the best is the Hotel Roubion, a&nbsp;first-class house,
+charging 15 frs. per day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service,
+5&nbsp;frs. additional. The house is situated on an eminence rising from
+the Corniche road, at the entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands
+a splendid sea view, has handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its
+fish dinners and Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly
+passing it. This establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants
+along the Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which
+is kept a supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called <a name =
+"bouillabaisse" id = "bouillabaisse"><b>Bouillabaisse</b></a>,
+a&nbsp;kind of fish soup, which, like most national
+dishes&mdash;plum-pudding, puchero, haggis, etc.&mdash;admits of
+considerable latitude in the preparation. The essentials are&mdash;whole
+rascasses and chapons (scorpion fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a
+liquor mixed with a little of the best olive oil, and flavoured with
+tender savoury herbs. An extra good Bouillabaisse should include also
+crayfish, a&nbsp;few mussels, and some pieces of any first-class fish,
+such as the bass.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Palais de Longchamp.</span></p>
+
+<p>Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking
+<span class = "pagenum">114</span>
+<a name = "page114" id = "page114"> </a>
+<!-- png 153 -->
+a short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles,
+enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2
+sous. <a name = "marseilles_longchamp" id =
+"marseilles_longchamp"><b>The Palais de Longchamp</b></a>, which cost
+£165,000, consists of two rectangular wings, united by a semicircular
+colonnade of Ionic volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a
+richly-sculptured massive archway, an inscription records that the great
+undertaking of bringing the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun
+on the 15th November 1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in
+the reign of Louis Philippe&nbsp;I. Another records that the palace was
+commenced in the reign of Napoleon&nbsp;III., on the 7th April 1862, and
+finished on the 15th August 1869. From a group of colossal bulls under
+the colonnade gushes a copious stream of water, which in its descent
+makes a cascade of 90 ft. in three stages. The wing to the right,
+standing with the face to the palace, contains the Natural History
+Museum; and the other, the picture and sculpture galleries.</p>
+
+<p>All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large
+pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room
+left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best
+pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:&mdash;F. Bol,
+d.&nbsp;1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon,
+d.&nbsp;1671, portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d.&nbsp;1640, Noah
+inebriated; Fontenay, d.&nbsp;1715, Fruit; Girodet, d.&nbsp;1824, Fruit;
+Gongo, d.&nbsp;1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze,
+d.&nbsp;1805, portrait; Holbein, d.&nbsp;1554, portrait; Loo,
+d.&nbsp;1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d.&nbsp;1713, Cardinal Cibo;
+Mignard, d.&nbsp;1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d.&nbsp;1766, Mme. de
+Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d.&nbsp;1652, marine scene; Pellegrino,
+d.&nbsp;1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d.&nbsp;1524, Holy Family;
+F.&nbsp;Porbus, d.&nbsp;1584, portrait; Raphael, d.&nbsp;1520, St. John;
+Rembrandt, d.&nbsp;1669, A&nbsp;Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d.&nbsp;1642,
+The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d.&nbsp;1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud,
+d.&nbsp;1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d.&nbsp;1640, Wild-boar Hunt;
+Salvator Rosa, d.&nbsp;1675, Hermit; Veronese, d.&nbsp;1588, Venetian
+princess; Zurbaran, d.&nbsp;1662, St. Francis. In the room to the right
+is the “<b>École Provençal</b>,” containing, among other
+paintings&mdash;Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d.&nbsp;1778, The
+Milkmaid, and portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety,
+d.&nbsp;1849, “La Vierge Consolatrice”; P.&nbsp;Puget, Madonna. In the
+left room are, among others, J.&nbsp;F. Millet, b.&nbsp;1815, Woman
+feeding Child.</p>
+
+<p>The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the
+conchological division and the collection of ammonites.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">115</span>
+<a name = "page115" id = "page115"> </a>
+<!-- png 154 -->
+
+<p>From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the
+palace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the
+sea, supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See
+under <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a>, p.&nbsp;77.) At this part of
+the hill is one of the entrances to the Zoological Gardens; free on
+Sundays, when they are crowded with people. Near the entrance is the
+<b>Observatory</b>, one of the most important in France.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Hôtel de Ville. La Consigne.</span></p>
+
+<p>The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is
+protected on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne.
+Its approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant
+is on the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Marseilles. The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette,
+covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned
+trading-vessels, with their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour
+called emphatically the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of
+the “Port” extends eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street
+La Cannebière, so called from the rope-walks, whose site it now
+occupies. At nearly the middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the
+<a name = "marseilles_hotel_ville" id = "marseilles_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel
+de Ville</b></a> (1&nbsp;in plan), built in the 17th cent., and adorned
+with sculpture by Puget, born at Marseilles; while at the western
+extremity of the same side, next Fort St. Jean, is a low building called
+La Consigne, or Health Office. Over the chimney-piece in the
+council-room of the <a name = "marseilles_consigne" id =
+"marseilles_consigne">Consigne</a> is a beautiful relief in white marble
+by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To the right is a picture by
+Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce administering the sacrament to the
+plague-stricken inhabitants of Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch
+before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice
+returning from Constantinople with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la
+République.” Opposite the fireplace, “The cholera on board the
+Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose
+assisting to bury those who had died of the plague.” Between them is a
+Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two windows is a portrait of Bishop
+Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne is the pier of the ferry-boats.
+Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town infirmary, and beyond it, on a
+terrace 30 ft. above the quay of Joliette,
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "marseilles_cathedral" id =
+"marseilles_cathedral">
+Marseilles: Cathedral.<br>
+Arc de Triomphe.</a></span>
+the <b>Cathedral</b>, a&nbsp;Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N.,
+and 165 ft. from E. to W. at the transept; built of gray Florentine
+stone alternating with a whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of
+Arles. The nave is 52 ft. wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome
+is 196 ft. high. Behind the cathedral are the Episcopal palace
+<span class = "pagenum">116</span>
+<a name = "page116" id = "page116"> </a>
+<!-- png 155 -->
+(5&nbsp;in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charité (7).
+Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the <a name =
+"marseilles_arc_triomphe" id = "marseilles_arc_triomphe"><b>Arc de
+Triomphe</b></a>, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced
+on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc
+d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58
+ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the
+battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar
+statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz.
+Over the arch is the inscription&mdash; “<i>A la République</i>.” From
+the arch a steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce,
+with at the N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le
+souvenir de sa charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola
+Marseille” in 1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the <a href =
+"#marseilles_trams">Bonneveine tram</a> (p.&nbsp;113) and the Alcazar
+Lyrique, a&nbsp;kind of superior café chantant.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Bourse.</span></p>
+
+<p>The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and
+farther S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours
+are, to the right the R.&nbsp;Cannebière, and to the left the
+R.&nbsp;Noailles, the two best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port
+end of the former is the <a name = "marseilles_bourse" id =
+"marseilles_bourse"><b>Bourse</b></a> (marked 10 in the plan),
+a&nbsp;parallelogramic building, 154 feet broad by 223 long, erected
+between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 feet by 94, is ornamented
+with mural paintings. In the vestibule are allegorical statues of
+Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief representing Marseilles
+receiving productions from all parts of the world. On the opposite side
+of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the Opera-house, the Palais de
+Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The Palais de Justice, built
+in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment and peristyle
+bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc.
+The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded by 16 columns
+of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the Renaissance
+style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues and
+bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier d’honneur,
+communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with mural
+paintings.</p>
+
+<p>From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of <b>Notre
+Dame de la Garde</b>, one of the principal sights, and the most
+prominent object in Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right
+by the Cours Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de
+Colline, and then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On
+descending be careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar
+under a canopy on 4 columns. A&nbsp;small omnibus drives up the length
+of the Plateau
+<span class = "pagenum">117</span>
+<a name = "page117" id = "page117"> </a>
+<!-- png 156 -->
+de la Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain
+to the terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The
+church is shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps,
+can always be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a
+gilded image of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to
+the head. The view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the
+whole of Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166
+ft.; to the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it
+Mont Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau
+and Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is
+the little <a href = "#island_if">island of If</a> (p.&nbsp;118). Off
+Cape Croisette are the islands of Maïre and Peirot. The road down the
+little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol) leads to the Corniche.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Notre Dame de la Garde.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "marseilles_notre_dame" id =
+"marseilles_notre_dame">
+NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an
+upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The
+interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters
+and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar
+in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is
+about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and
+made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the
+face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14
+lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of
+silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and
+with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous
+interposition was displayed.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: Lycée. Saint Victor.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets
+ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the
+Cours Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the <a name =
+"marseilles_lycee" id = "marseilles_lycee"><b>Lycée</b></a> or head
+grammar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et
+l’École des Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the
+Boulevard du Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor
+are the class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection
+of medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the
+medals are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols.
+and 1300 manuscripts.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and
+the Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in
+Marseilles, <a name = "marseilles_st_victor" id =
+"marseilles_st_victor"><b>Saint Victor</b></a>, all that remains of one
+of the most famous
+<span class = "pagenum">118</span>
+<a name = "page118" id = "page118"> </a>
+<!-- png 157 -->
+monasteries in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained
+deacon of the church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of
+St. Victor resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal
+and uncouth square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been
+added by Pope Urban&nbsp;V., a&nbsp;former abbot of the monastery. Over
+the entrance door under these towers is a rude representation of St.
+George and the dragon. The upper church dates only from the beginning of
+the 13th cent. Near the sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps
+leads down to the original church, a&nbsp;large and spacious crypt. Of
+this crypt the most ancient part is the small chapel shut off from the
+rest, with several tombs hewn in the rock. Among those buried here were
+St. Victor, and, according to the tradition of the place, Lazarus also,
+who is said to have died at Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this
+chapel is marred by a modern altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it
+is said, by Puget. The shaft of one of the columns has a sculptured rope
+coiled round it. Pieces of ornamental sculpture are seen at different
+parts of the crypt, and remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the
+sanctuary of a miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have
+been carved by Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is
+called Notre Dame de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds
+of votaries from the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the
+sarcophagi have been removed to the museum in the <a href =
+"#marseilles_borely">Château Borély</a> (p.&nbsp;113). At the foot of
+the eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the
+Bassin de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four
+minutes to the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is
+Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Island of If.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Excursions.</i>&mdash;The principal excursion from Marseilles is
+to the <a name = "island_if" id = "island_if"><b>Island of If</b></a>,
+with its old château built by Francis&nbsp;I., long used as a state
+prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port.
+They charge from 5 to 9&nbsp;frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the
+price before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks,
+whence a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the
+entrance to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant.
+A&nbsp;man conducts visitors over the castle, of which the most
+interesting parts are the cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he
+was thrown over into the sea.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_to_martigues" id =
+"marseilles_to_martigues">Marseilles to Martigues</a>, 24 m. N.W. by
+rail (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map on
+p.&nbsp;66</a>). At Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾&nbsp;m.
+W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the
+canal to <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">Arles</a>
+<span class = "pagenum">119</span>
+<a name = "page119" id = "page119"> </a>
+<!-- png 158 -->
+(see p. 76). After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lestaque">L’Estaque</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;80), 7&nbsp;m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot
+of a wooded hill. 4¼&nbsp;m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn
+close to the station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main
+line, and the Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an
+omnibus awaits passengers for Marignane, 3¾&nbsp;m. W. on Lake
+Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake
+Marignane is separated from Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The
+train after passing Marignane station arrives at the station for
+Châteauneuf, a&nbsp;village S. towards the hills.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Martigues.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "martigues" id = "martigues"><b>Les Martigues</b></a>, pop.
+10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du Cours, and omnibus for
+Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of the outlet from Lake
+Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all connected by bridges.
+The railway station, the hotel, and a large part of the town are on the
+E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of the 3 islets are the
+Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the middle one is the Hôtel
+de Ville; and on the third and largest are the hospital and the parish
+church with sculptured portals. On the N. side of the canal is the part
+of the town called Ferrières, containing the harbour and the reservoirs
+for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the principal industry of the
+inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The
+infirmary (Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can
+accommodate 750 patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains
+generally from 600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near
+the Prado is the Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marseilles_industries" id =
+"marseilles_industries">
+<span class = "headnote">Marseilles: Industries.
+Commerce.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories,
+with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at
+£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and
+chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000
+tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ
+2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated
+acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at
+£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a&nbsp;large quantity of
+ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast
+furnaces of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and
+yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for
+the construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch
+of iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is
+a great centre for the extraction of silver from
+<span class = "pagenum">120</span>
+<a name = "page120" id = "page120"> </a>
+<!-- png 159 -->
+lead ore; 16,000 tons of lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated
+annually.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_commerce" id =
+"marseilles_commerce"><i>Commerce.</i></a>&mdash;The chief imports in
+point of bulk are cereals from the Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but
+the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4,000,000 yearly, comes from
+Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and Japan. Then follow metals, ores,
+timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect
+of value are silk, woollen and cotton fabrics, refined sugars, wines and
+spirits; those of greatest bulk are cereals in the form of flour,
+building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and
+crystal.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Marseilles: History.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseilles_history" id =
+"marseilles_history"><i>History.</i></a>&mdash;The Greek colony of
+Massalia (in Latin, <i>Massilia</i>) was founded by the enterprising
+mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600 <span class =
+"smallroman">B.C.</span> After the ravages of successive streams of
+invaders it was repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of
+its viscounts. In 1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed
+into a republic, governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the
+remainder of the Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified,
+the higher town was governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the
+creek of La Joliette. The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of
+St. Victor, and owned the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town,
+situated between the two, retained the old harbour, and was the most
+powerful of the three divisions. The period of the Crusades brought
+great prosperity to Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence.
+Louis XIV. came in person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under
+the Fronde. He took the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas
+constructed. Marseilles repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an
+epidemic raged from May 1720 to May 1721 with a severity for which it is
+almost impossible to find a parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose,
+and others immortalised themselves by their courage and devotion.</p>
+
+<p>During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the
+aristocracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror
+they rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by
+General Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to
+their maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against
+Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a
+considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the
+Suez Canal.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+The Marseillaise.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "marseillaise" id = "marseillaise"><i>The
+Marseillaise.</i></a>&mdash;The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise”
+was composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on
+<span class = "pagenum">121</span>
+<a name = "page121" id = "page121"> </a>
+<!-- png 160 -->
+the 10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi,
+6¼&nbsp;m. S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th
+April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers,
+Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and
+during dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to
+compose a war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired
+to his room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to
+bed. In the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “<i>Tenez,
+voilá ce que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas
+trop bon.</i>” “<i>Que dites vous mon ami?</i>” said Dietrich, after
+casting his eye over the MS.; “<i>vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre.</i>”
+The mayor’s wife having tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the
+theatre were engaged to perform it in the principal square of Strasburg,
+when such was the enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off
+with nearly 1000 instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the
+air “Le Chant de guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a
+detachment of volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of
+Barbaroux, and as they were in the habit of singing this song both on
+their march and in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des
+Marseillais.” Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the
+scaffold June 1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the
+fall of the monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">122</span>
+<a name = "page122" id = "page122"> </a>
+<!-- png 161 -->
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "marseilles_to_menton" id =
+"marseilles_to_menton">
+MARSEILLES TO MENTON.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "center smallcaps">By Hyères, Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. 155
+Miles.</p>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+See Maps, <a href = "#map113">pages 113</a>, <a href =
+"#map155">155</a>, and <a href = "#map185">185</a>.</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles to">155</span>
+<b>MARSEILLES.</b> See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the
+“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon,
+traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by
+mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream
+Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles
+canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the
+chapel of N.&nbsp;D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all
+situated at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to
+October, a&nbsp;coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the
+cold mineral baths of Camoins, 2&nbsp;m. distant, or 5&nbsp;m. by
+omnibus from Marseilles. The bathing establishment is about ¼&nbsp;m.
+from the village, in an undulating hollow, among plane trees, olives,
+and vines. The water is cold, and contains iron and iodine, with a great
+deal of sulphur. It is very effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the
+liver. The establishment is quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to
+9&nbsp;frs. per day.</p>
+
+<p>10½ m. from Marseilles is <a name = "aubagne" id =
+"aubagne"><b>Aubagne</b></a>, pop. 8100. H.&nbsp;Notre Dame. Omnibus
+daily to Marseilles, stopping at H.&nbsp;St. Louis. Every train halts at
+Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½&nbsp;m. N., with
+coal-mines and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where
+take rail.</p>
+
+<p>After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and,
+if a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a&nbsp;pleasant
+fishing village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont
+Gardiole (to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille
+(to the east), culminating point 1365 ft. <i>Inn:</i> Hotel and Pension
+Liautaud. An omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents.
+A&nbsp;very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a
+forest of pines on the sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat,
+6½&nbsp;m. east by this road, and 23&nbsp;m. from Marseilles by rail.
+The station for La Ciotat is 2½&nbsp;m. from the town, but an omnibus
+awaits passengers. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de l’Univers, at the head of a
+well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong stone jetties. At
+the western side of the little bay is a curious promontory, the Bec de
+l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of three lofty rocks in a
+row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the point is the
+<span class = "pagenum">123</span>
+<a name = "page123" id = "page123"> </a>
+<!-- png 163 -->
+small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing is carried
+on in <a name = "la_ciotat" id = "la_ciotat"><b>La Ciotat</b></a>; but
+the main business of the place is derived from the great shipbuilding
+yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly
+and indirectly the whole town.</p>
+
+<p>4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village
+of St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼&nbsp;m. farther is the station for
+Bandol, a&nbsp;fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small
+islands. The industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in
+fields on the plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.</p>
+
+<p>36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where
+omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a&nbsp;port on
+the Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, <i>Inn:</i> Trotobas;
+situated a short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by
+limestone cliffs, which, about 2&nbsp;m. up the river, are so close to
+each other as to form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the
+brigand Gaspard de Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and
+Bandol is the culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths,
+are sent all over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen.
+Yellow is the natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed
+or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges
+and lemons grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place
+of Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset,
+pop. 3000. <i>Inn:</i> France.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Seyne. Six Fours.</span></p>
+
+<p>38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is <a name =
+"la_seyne" id = "la_seyne"><b>La Seyne</b></a> station. An omnibus
+awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H.&nbsp;de la Méditerranée,
+situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which two ports there is
+constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is the office of the
+omnibus for Tamaris, a&nbsp;village 1¼&nbsp;m. S.E., at the foot of Fort
+Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus returns by
+Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La Seyne, from
+which Reynier is 3&nbsp;m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the new fort
+and what remains of the ancient village of <a name = "six_fours" id =
+"six_fours"><b>Six Fours</b></a>, once a town of importance. The greater
+part of the crumbling walls has been cleared away, and in their stead a
+strong fort has been built, which occupies the entire summit of the
+hill. The old church still remains, of which the earliest part, 6th
+cent., is at the entrance extending east and west, and was originally
+the whole building. To the right hand are two stone altars (6th cent.),
+with windows behind them to give light to the officiating priest, who at
+that time said mass with his face to the audience. The nave, extending
+<span class = "pagenum">124</span>
+<a name = "page124" id = "page124"> </a>
+<!-- png 164 -->
+N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It contains a Madonna by Puget,
+and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. Under the church is a large
+cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales de Six Fours,” the chapel
+or house where Mary, sent by her brother Lazarus, told the inhabitants
+about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt of <a href = "#st_maximin">St.
+Maximin</a> (p.&nbsp;143).</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+MARSEILLES TO CANNES.</p>
+
+<!-- png 162 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 123</span>
+[West End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br>
+[East End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map163">map,
+page 163</a>.</i><br>
+<i>For continuation westwards see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br>
+<a name = "map123" id = "map123" href = "images/map123.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map123thumb.png" width = "484" height = "232"
+alt = "see caption"></a><br>
+<i>For Esteral Mountains see <a href = "#map146">map, page 146</a>,<br>
+and for continuation eastwards see <a href = "#map163">map, page
+163</a>.</i><br>
+<i>See Environs of Toulon, <a href = "#map129">page 129</a>.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "toulon" id = "toulon">
+TOULON.</a></h5>
+
+<p>42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22&nbsp;m. S. from
+Carnoulles, 59&nbsp;m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Cannes, 98½&nbsp;m. S.W. from Nice, and 113&nbsp;m. S.W. from Menton, is
+<b>Toulon</b>, pop. 71,000 (see maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a>
+and <a href = "#map129">129</a>). <i>Hotels:</i> near the station, the
+Grand Hotel, a&nbsp;large first-class house; a&nbsp;little farther and
+near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and
+the Louvre; in the <a name = "toulon_place_puget" id =
+"toulon_place_puget">Place Puget</a> is the Nord, and at No. 15 an
+office where carriages can be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions.
+From this “Place” start the omnibuses for Hyères, 11&nbsp;m. E. by the
+road; also omnibuses for Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and
+scallop shells on the fountain in the centre of the “Place” are by
+Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the H.&nbsp;Place d’Armes, fronting the
+Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band plays on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette,
+La Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières,
+Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start
+from the <a name = "toulon_place_italie" id =
+"toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a> at the east end of Toulon. In
+this “Place” are the inns H.&nbsp;Petit, St. Jean, and
+H.&nbsp;Croix-Blanche. (For the above places see maps, <a href =
+"#map123">pp. 123</a> and <a href = "#map129">129</a>.) In the Place
+Puget are several cheap restaurants. The best restaurants are on the
+quay of the port.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon: The Quai du Port.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "toulon_quai_port" id = "toulon_quai_port"><b>The Quai du
+Port.</b></a>&mdash;The bronze statue on this quay, representing
+Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front
+of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint
+Mandrier, 3½&nbsp;m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is
+the berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the
+hulk of the famous <i>Belle Poule</i>, covered with a roof of sloping
+planks. This was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from
+St. Helena and deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December
+1840. The Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of
+the expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville,
+with whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and
+Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of
+Napoleon’s adherents. On the
+<span class = "pagenum">125</span>
+<a name = "page125" id = "page125"> </a>
+<!-- png 165 -->
+16th October the coffin was opened, when the body was found in an
+excellent state of preservation. On that same day the remains were
+embarked on board the <i>Belle Poule</i>, and on the 18th the ship set
+sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where the body was
+transferred to the steamboat <i>Normandie</i>, which conveyed it up the
+Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent car.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon: Cab Fares. The Arsenals.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "toulon_cabs" id = "toulon_cabs"><i>Cab
+fares.</i></a>&mdash;The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising
+gradually from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east
+and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour
+on either side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort
+Croix and large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and
+immediately behind it <a name = "mont_coudon_2" id = "mont_coudon_2">Mt.
+Coudon</a>, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and behind it
+Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort; while from
+the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort Malbousquet.
+Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the last held by
+the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and most secure
+roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port Marchand
+and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then
+follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all
+communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by
+well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the
+<a name = "toulon_arsenal" id = "toulon_arsenal">arsenals</a> and the
+establishments connected with them, which are on a scale of almost
+unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and employing above 10,000
+men. Near the west end of the Port a large gateway with marble columns
+forms the entrance into the “Arsenal Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and
+containing a general storehouse, 100 forge fires, two covered
+building-slips, a&nbsp;ropery 1050 feet long, and an armoury with at the
+entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by Puget. Adjoining is the
+Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles along the bay towards La
+Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and ship-equipment departments.</p>
+
+<p>Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and
+sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the
+characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound,
+from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where
+gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The
+most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf
+fronting the town-dock is called. As long as
+<span class = "pagenum">126</span>
+<a name = "page126" id = "page126"> </a>
+<!-- png 166 -->
+the sun is above the horizon it shines there, consequently during the
+cold season it is crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom,
+unfortunately, are poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are
+good cafés and restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the
+town and neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in
+November 1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human
+life recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad
+with vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing
+even those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith,
+amidst the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and
+imploring cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and
+embarking some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military
+genius the discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted
+himself to the utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon: Town Hall.</span></p>
+
+<p>Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the <a name =
+"toulon_town_hall" id = "toulon_town_hall"><b>Town Hall</b></a>, adorned
+with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the statue
+representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is the
+corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of nearly
+square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the smallest.
+The small side has three windows in each row, and the large four, the
+windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in couples. On
+the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under the eaves a
+projecting dentil cornice.</p>
+
+<p>The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is
+the Rue Lafayette, a&nbsp;broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with
+immense lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends
+round to the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a
+fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow
+five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls
+fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.)
+At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts
+for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior
+contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to
+the left represents one of the interviews between J.&nbsp;C. and
+Marguerite Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents
+Mary announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the
+“conceived without sin.”</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon: Sainte-Marie-Majeure.</span></p>
+
+<p>The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between
+houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of <a name =
+"toulon_cathedral" id =
+"toulon_cathedral"><b>Sainte-Marie-Majeure</b></a>, commenced in the
+11th cent., and finished in the 18th.
+<span class = "pagenum">127</span>
+<a name = "page127" id = "page127"> </a>
+<!-- png 167 -->
+The exterior is unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft
+over the entrance is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar
+in the chapel to the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier.
+The tabernacle and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to
+have executed also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel
+representing the apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the
+arch of the chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by
+Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church.</p>
+
+<p>All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are
+those which cross to <a href = "#la_seyne">La Seyne</a> (p.&nbsp;123).
+The steamers for the Iles d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from
+this wharf. The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily,
+calling first at Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort
+Aiguillette to the north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter
+being easily recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses
+are situated towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of
+Fort Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty
+villas in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind
+Tamaris rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent
+carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of
+the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier,
+and La Seyne.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+St. Mandrier.</span>
+The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the roads or Rade du
+Lazaret and enters the small bay of <a name = "st_mandrier" id =
+"st_mandrier"><b>St. Mandrier</b></a>. At the landing-place is a
+comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. Round the point, in a
+warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200
+beds, one of the most important establishments of this kind in France.
+It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a handsome chapel, and a
+great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. Adjoining is a large and
+well-sheltered garden with orange trees. Visitors are readily admitted.
+In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the Hôpital de la Marine,
+exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, it is hardly
+sufficiently ventilated.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Toulon: Mont Faron.</span></p>
+
+<p>One of the most interesting walks is to the top of <a name =
+"mont_faron" id = "mont_faron"><b>Mont Faron</b></a>, 1792 feet above
+the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take the
+broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the
+railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the
+town by the Port of Ste. Anne&mdash;the name is on the gateway. From
+this the real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle
+ascent and continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of
+the town and the bay. When not far from
+<span class = "pagenum">128</span>
+<a name = "page128" id = "page128"> </a>
+<!-- png 168 -->
+the summit three roads meet. The road to the left goes to the barracks
+and to the top. The nearly level road to the right goes to Fort Faron,
+and the steep road to the left to Fort de la Croix on a rock above Fort
+Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette side of the mountain. The
+summit consists of a stony tableland, from which rise knolls of various
+elevations. It can be done in a carriage.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Valette. Mont Coudon. Cap Brun.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "toulon_omnibus" id = "toulon_omnibus"><i>Toulon
+Omnibuses.</i></a>&mdash;Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best
+are to <a href = "#hyeres"><b>Hyères</b></a> (p.&nbsp;133) by La
+Valette, and to the village of <a name = "dardenne" id =
+"dardenne"><b>Dardenne</b></a>, on a stream in the picturesque valley
+between Mont Faron on the right or S. side and the steep Tourris
+mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. As far as the
+omnibus goes the road is good. The road eastwards through the valley
+leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le
+Revest, on the top of an eminence commanding a good view of the ravine
+of the Dardenne. The village of <a name = "la_valette" id =
+"la_valette"><b>La Valette</b></a>, pop. 1700, is 3¼&nbsp;m. E. from
+Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by the omnibus. The carving on the church
+door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of
+Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent
+is made of <a name = "mont_coudon" id = "mont_coudon"><b>Mt.
+Coudon</b></a>, 2305 ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are
+grand views in all directions. I&nbsp;have sought for them a great deal,
+and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the
+graceful yet bold indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.”
+&mdash;<i>George Sand.</i> A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but
+unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, farther progress is
+stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent
+from the narrow lane opposite the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high
+road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea
+views disclose themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The next best omnibus-drives are to <a name = "cap_brun" id =
+"cap_brun"><b>Cap Brun</b></a> and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the
+coast, and to <a name = "le_pradet" id = "le_pradet"><b>Le
+Pradet</b></a>, a&nbsp;village N.E. from Ste. Marguerite, on the road to
+Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the Place d’Italie. Although
+this road skirts the coast, very little of it is seen on account of
+hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on
+cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite
+is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among
+villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from
+a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village a little to the S. of
+La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle,
+forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir
+Charles Dilke.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">129</span>
+<a name = "page129" id = "page129"> </a>
+<!-- png 170 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mourillon.</span></p>
+
+<p>The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of <a name = "mourillon" id =
+"mourillon"><b>Mourillon</b></a>, 3½&nbsp;m. E., behind Fort La Malgue
+or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours Lafayette.</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">environs of<br>
+TOULON &amp; HYÈRES</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 169 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 129</span>
+<a name = "map129" id = "map129" href = "images/map129.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map129thumb.png" width = "479" height = "224"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name = "toulon_diligences" id = "toulon_diligences"><i>Diligence
+Drives.</i></a>&mdash;<b>Toulon to Meounes</b>, 19¼&nbsp;m. N. by
+diligence from the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see
+<a href = "#map129">map, p.&nbsp;<ins class = "correction"
+title = "text reads ‘117’">129</ins></a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Belgentier. Meounes.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾&nbsp;m., and
+Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and
+10½&nbsp;m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The
+diligence halts near the inn H.&nbsp;du Commerce, where passengers from
+Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the same
+way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the beautiful
+part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and
+precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large
+olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry
+trees. Nearly 2&nbsp;m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of
+the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook.
+5&nbsp;m. higher up, and 12½&nbsp;m. from Toulon, is <a name =
+"belgentier" id = "belgentier"><b>Belgentier</b></a> (pronounced
+Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here.
+The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the
+right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence,
+after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best
+headquarters in the valley, <a name = "meounes" id =
+"meounes"><b>Meounes</b></a>, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent
+of the Gapeau, 3½&nbsp;m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾&nbsp;m. N. from
+Solliès-Pont, 6&nbsp;m. E. from Signes, 4¾&nbsp;m. S. from
+Roquebrussane, 12&nbsp;m. S.E. from Le Camp, 5&nbsp;m. S. from
+Garéoules, and 7½&nbsp;m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which
+is 7&nbsp;m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see <a href = "#map123">map,
+p.&nbsp;123</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the
+village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the
+words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of
+sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is a
+great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern
+and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going
+round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of
+1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft.
+Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations,
+occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which
+traverse this region are excessively stony.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montrieux.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian
+Monastery of <a name = "montrieux" id = "montrieux"><b>Montrieux</b></a>
+(pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. above the sea. To go to it
+descend the high road for about 1½&nbsp;m. to a bridge and first road
+right, which take. A&nbsp;little way up, the road divides into two; take
+the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily
+situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It
+was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the
+house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In
+1845 the building was repurchased,
+<span class = "pagenum">130</span>
+<a name = "page130" id = "page130"> </a>
+<!-- png 171 -->
+along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars
+from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The
+Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their
+rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same
+room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have
+each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps
+and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes
+d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le
+prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même le
+premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses ou aux
+tromperies des femmes.” A&nbsp;nearer but very stony path, commencing
+opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane,
+the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the Toulon coach to
+Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and
+the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles
+3&nbsp;frs., distance 15 miles. (For <a href =
+"#brignoles">Brignoles</a>, see p.&nbsp;142.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Crau. Cuers. Pierrefeu. Collobrières.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "toulon_to_collobrieres" id =
+"toulon_to_collobrieres"><b>Toulon to Collobrières.</b></a>&mdash;From
+the Place d’Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrières, 25&nbsp;m. N.E.
+by E., passing through La Valette 3¼&nbsp;m., La Garde with its castle
+5&nbsp;m., and <a name = "la_crau" id = "la_crau"><b>La Crau</b></a>
+7½&nbsp;m. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de France. Beyond the inn are the post
+and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau,
+the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs
+between Hyères and La Crau.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18&nbsp;m. from
+Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace,
+a&nbsp;little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds
+to Collobrières, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½
+frs.; time, 4½ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence
+at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span>; or take the rail to <a name = "cuers" id =
+"cuers"><b>Cuers</b></a> station, and then the courrier, which leaves
+Toulon every forenoon for Collobrières, passing through <a href =
+"#pierrefeu">Pierrefeu</a> (p.&nbsp;142).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less
+undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The
+Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is crossed a few
+yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes
+a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the principal
+affluent of the Gapeau. <a name = "pierrefeu" id =
+"pierrefeu"><b>Pierrefeu</b></a>, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a
+hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From
+the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu
+the coach ascends the valley of the Réal-Collobrier to <a name =
+"collobrieres" id = "collobrieres"><b>Collobrières</b></a>, pop. 3600,
+on an eminence rising from the stream. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de Notre
+Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the
+courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hôtel de
+Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old
+church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower
+part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees.
+On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of
+<span class = "pagenum">131</span>
+<a name = "page131" id = "page131"> </a>
+<!-- png 172 -->
+chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the
+opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting,
+wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the principal
+industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin
+ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes
+straw-coloured.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to
+Gonfaron, a&nbsp;station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and
+Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the
+chapel of N.&nbsp;D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Isles d’Or.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "iles_dor" id = "iles_dor">
+The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare
+2&nbsp;frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and
+back to Porquerolles, 2&nbsp;frs. Steamer also every other day from Les
+Salins of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and
+Port-Cros.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of
+the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the
+massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to
+the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La
+Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and
+southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of
+St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen
+distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the
+steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of
+<a href = "#giens">Giens</a> (see p.&nbsp;140, and <a href = "#map123">map,
+p.&nbsp;123</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Porquerolles.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "porquerolles" id = "porquerolles"><b>Porquerolles</b></a>,
+pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2&nbsp;miles.
+The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is
+low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in
+vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is
+nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while
+the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The
+climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells.
+Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in
+the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum,
+Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista
+linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side
+of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9&nbsp;m. from Les Salins.
+The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor
+alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church, the
+museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two
+inns, of which the H.&nbsp;du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above
+the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small
+buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+There are three main roads in the island&mdash;the road by the N. coast
+westward is called the <b>Chemin du Langoustier</b>, the road by the N.
+coast eastward the <b>Chemin des Mèdes</b>, and the road up the centre
+of the island, from N. to S., the <b>Chemin au Phare</b>. This last road
+<span class = "pagenum">132</span>
+<a name = "page132" id = "page132"> </a>
+<!-- png 173 -->
+commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the
+lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210
+ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps,
+is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin
+du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively
+open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the
+left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient
+structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda
+manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie,
+a&nbsp;watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most
+fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes
+round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479
+ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a
+perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands,
+of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes,
+is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the
+commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it
+led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called
+Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path
+leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft.
+high.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Port-Cros. Port Man. Levant.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "port_cros" id = "port_cros"><b>Port-Cros.</b></a>&mdash;11½
+m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½&nbsp;m. S.
+from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a
+small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends
+from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s
+house to <a name = "port_man" id = "port_man"><b>Port Man</b></a> at the
+eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded
+ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea;
+it is 2½&nbsp;m. from S.W. to N.E., and 1½&nbsp;m. from N. to S., and
+contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are
+similar&mdash;mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous
+little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had
+at all times.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more
+sterile island of the <a name = "levant" id =
+"levant"><b>Levant</b></a>, 5&nbsp;m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to
+S.&nbsp;The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the
+Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the
+sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "toulon_to_hyeres" id =
+"toulon_to_hyeres">
+Toulon to Hyères.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Toulon to Hyères.</b>&mdash;Passengers at Toulon for Hyères,
+11&nbsp;m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times
+daily from the Place Puget, fare 1&nbsp;fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by
+train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a
+direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline,
+where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail
+from Toulon.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">133</span>
+<a name = "page133" id = "page133"> </a>
+<!-- png 174 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères. Hotels.</span></p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "hyeres" id = "hyeres">
+HYÈRES,</a></h5>
+
+<p>pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the
+nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as
+Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but
+none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety
+of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.
+The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is
+¾&nbsp;m. S. from Hyères, and ¾&nbsp;m. N. from the Hermitage.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "hyeres_hotels" id =
+"hyeres_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>&mdash;At the west of the town are the
+Hôtel des Palmiers, below the Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with
+garden off the main road; the H.&nbsp;Continental, on an eminence above
+the Iles d’Or. These three are first-class houses, and charge per day
+from 15 to 20 frs., including bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three
+meals with coffee or tea in the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the
+Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the main street are the Ambassadeurs and
+the Europe, both from 10 to 12 frs., frequented chiefly by those who
+come only for a few days. At the east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the
+H.&nbsp;du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On opposite side, and well situated for
+the sun, is the second-class house, the H.&nbsp;Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10
+frs. Near it, but not well situated, is the Méditerranée, third-class.
+The principal hotel on the east side of Hyères is the H.&nbsp;Orient, 10
+to 13 frs., a&nbsp;comfortable and old-established house, opposite the
+public gardens. Farther east, and off the high road to St. Tropez, is
+the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. Down by one of the roads to the sea
+is the H.&nbsp;des Étrangers, 10 to 13 frs., in a sunny situation. About
+1½&nbsp;m. S. from Hyères, near the Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered
+nook overlooking one of the warmest and most favoured valleys of the
+Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12
+frs., retired and comfortable, and frequented chiefly by English. As it
+is near the sea, in a forest of pines and cork oaks, it combines the
+advantages of Arcachon with those of Hyères. All the above prices
+include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner,
+with wine to both. Abundance of furnished apartments and villas to let.
+In the Place des Palmiers are a French and an English bank. Both
+exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple Protestant, and a
+little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal chapel is in the
+Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west end of the
+town.</p>
+
+<p>There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès,
+which take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations
+<span class = "pagenum">134</span>
+<a name = "page134" id = "page134"> </a>
+<!-- png 175 -->
+on the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large
+gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "hyeres_cabs" id = "hyeres_cabs"><i>Cab
+fares.</i></a>&mdash;Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and
+2 horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères: Drives.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "hyeres_drives" id =
+"hyeres_drives"><i>Drives.</i></a>&mdash;A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a
+coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8&nbsp;frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs.,
+but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to
+settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and
+back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1
+horse, 8&nbsp;frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of
+Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive,
+forming a good day’s excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux,
+18&nbsp;m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont (a&nbsp;railway station), and
+Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For <a href =
+"#belgentier">description</a>, see p.&nbsp;129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25
+frs. there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the
+Fort of Brégançon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux
+Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north
+towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7&nbsp;m. from Hyères)
+amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of
+the plain called La Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château
+de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7½&nbsp;m. E. from Hyères).
+A&nbsp;little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux
+of Léoubes (11&nbsp;m.) and Brégançon; and, on the western point of Cap
+Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4&nbsp;miles west of Bormes. (For <a href =
+"#bormes">Bormes</a>, see p.&nbsp;142.) Another pleasant drive is to
+Cuers, 14&nbsp;m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that
+ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the
+Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes
+by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive
+trees, some 6&nbsp;feet in diameter. There are also some large pines.
+Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may
+be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges
+of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected,
+as some parts of the roads are not good.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères: Coaches.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "hyeres_coaches" id =
+"hyeres_coaches"><i>Coaches.</i></a>&mdash;From the Place de la Rade
+start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6¼&nbsp;m. W., for Les Vieux Salins
+4&nbsp;m. E., for <a href = "#la_crau">La Crau</a> 4½&nbsp;m. N. (see
+p.&nbsp;130), and for St. Tropez 32½&nbsp;m. E., whence a steamer sails
+to St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du
+Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette
+(see maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a> and <a href =
+"#map129">129</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">135</span>
+<a name = "page135" id = "page135"> </a>
+<!-- png 176 -->
+<p><b>Hyères proper</b> is a little dirty town of narrow streets,
+running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all
+the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets
+and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A&nbsp;plain,
+2&nbsp;m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded
+Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of
+the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent
+protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road,
+extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in
+its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the
+steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist.
+At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins,
+and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these
+two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the
+street R.&nbsp;Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Massillon,
+containing the fish-market, a&nbsp;bust of Massillon, and the Maison des
+Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de Ville.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "massillon" id = "massillon">
+Massillon.</a></span>
+Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the left a
+dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No.
+7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was
+born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without
+gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at
+Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV.
+that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court&mdash; “Father,
+I&nbsp;have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with
+them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The
+language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and
+just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first
+time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew
+vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose
+from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which
+still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the
+article “Eloquence” in the <i>Encyclopédie</i> as an example presenting
+“<i>la figure la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence
+qu’on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes</i>.” His father, who
+spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from
+father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères: St. Paul. St. Louis.</span></p>
+
+<p>Above the “Place” is the church of <a name = "hyeres_st_paul" id =
+"hyeres_st_paul"><b>St. Paul</b></a>, 12th cent., on a terrace
+commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar
+represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to
+the church is an ancient baptismal font.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">136</span>
+<a name = "page136" id = "page136"> </a>
+<!-- png 177 -->
+<p>At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République,
+is the church of <a name = "hyeres_st_louis" id =
+"hyeres_st_louis"><b>St. Louis</b></a>, built in the 12th cent. in the
+Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the
+entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned
+arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls
+display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement
+of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are
+set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and
+remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen
+and their 3 children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on
+the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand
+de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St.
+Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain
+in this square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou
+and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX.
+In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which
+event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to
+the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he
+dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the
+western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in
+1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864,
+and came from Spain. Napoleon&nbsp;I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the
+Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous
+nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the
+“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared
+for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These
+gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered,
+and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères: Costebelle.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the
+<a name = "hyeres_costebelle" id =
+"hyeres_costebelle"><b>Costebelle</b></a>, about 2½&nbsp;m. from N.E. to
+S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in
+little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end
+of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel
+of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely
+views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are
+old olive trees.</span></p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Hyères: Château.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "hyeres_chateau" id = "hyeres_chateau">
+THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES.</a></h5>
+
+<p>On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the
+<b>Château of Hyères</b>, which should be visited as early as possible,
+for the sake
+<span class = "pagenum">137</span>
+<a name = "page137" id = "page137"> </a>
+<!-- png 178 -->
+of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the
+Hôtel de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the
+right, as the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the
+wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been
+founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it
+is called <i>Castrum aræarum</i> or <i>aræis</i>, “air-castle.”
+Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons,
+still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the
+Hôtel des Iles d’Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful.
+Immediately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in
+bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded
+with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens.
+Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war
+moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are
+the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three.
+Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is <a href =
+"#porquerolles">Porquerolles</a> (p.&nbsp;131), the largest of the
+islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3&nbsp;m.
+long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the
+little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N.&nbsp;D. d’Hyères, and the
+Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from
+Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been
+shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain,
+are <a href = "#mont_coudon_2">Mt. Coudon</a>, 2305 ft. (see
+p.&nbsp;125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon.
+Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the
+Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this fort, northwards by
+the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and Léoubes. The highest peak
+of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre
+Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a> and
+<a href = "#map129">129</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont Fenouillet.</span></p>
+
+<p>Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette
+group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the
+western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge,
+commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence,
+633 ft., on which is a fragment of a tower. A&nbsp;gibbet for the
+execution of malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill
+above the east end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new
+cemeteries, is a favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before
+descending from the castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "mt_fenouillet" id = "mt_fenouillet"><b>Excursion to Mont
+Fenouillet.</b></a>&mdash;Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path
+to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of
+<span class = "pagenum">138</span>
+<a name = "page138" id = "page138"> </a>
+<!-- png 179 -->
+the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the
+left, called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of
+Hyères, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads
+to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs,
+and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the
+<i>Arbutus unedo</i>, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road
+at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the
+valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small
+chapel visited by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross
+(3&nbsp;Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths
+lead from it down to the road between Hyères and Toulon.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "hyeres_oiseaux" id = "hyeres_oiseaux"><b>Excursion to the
+Montagnes des Oiseaux.</b></a>&mdash;The best way is to take the path
+commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by
+the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it
+is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the <i>Quercus
+coccifera</i>. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but
+on the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of
+Hyères on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+The Trou des Fées.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "trou_fees" id = "trou_fees"><b>The Trou des
+Fées.</b></a>&mdash;On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.
+side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The
+entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior,
+covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it
+lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path
+leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down
+by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle
+road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The
+other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly
+2&nbsp;m. S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26
+horse-power. This water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1&nbsp;m.
+E., through the gravelly soil of the plain.</p>
+
+<p>To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and
+confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble
+in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the
+lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound
+heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at
+such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the
+swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure
+mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the
+walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cork-cutting.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the
+Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences
+<span class = "pagenum">139</span>
+<a name = "page139" id = "page139"> </a>
+<!-- png 180 -->
+in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a
+curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees
+become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state,
+and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12°
+Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The cold
+of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the trunks
+and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which
+sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing
+round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella
+pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or <a name
+= "hyeres_cork" id = "hyeres_cork"><i>Quercus suber</i></a>, generally
+accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the <i>Quercus
+coccifera</i>. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the
+stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is
+removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen
+years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is
+stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4&nbsp;feet apart,
+and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every
+tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour.
+A&nbsp;cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty
+years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the
+mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns
+on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "hyeres_caterpillar" id =
+"hyeres_caterpillar">
+Processional Caterpillar.<br>
+Pipes.</a></span>
+The curious caterpillar of the Moth, <i>Bombyx processionaria</i>, feeds
+on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made
+of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly
+attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are
+found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed
+during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession,
+following each other with great precision. On the summits of the Maures,
+and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath <i>Erica
+arborea</i>, from whose roots <a name = "hyeres_pipes" id =
+"hyeres_pipes">pipes</a> are made. The digging up and the preparing of
+these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry
+in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes,
+briar being a corruption of the French word <i>bruyère</i>, signifying
+heath.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits,
+and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries,
+peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain
+between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The
+gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the
+surface, there is always abundance of water.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "hyeres_butterflies" id =
+"hyeres_butterflies">
+<span class = "headnote">Butterflies.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the
+Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus
+Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the
+beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most
+abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September,
+many of the latter generation living through the winter. Thais
+Medesicaste, T.&nbsp;Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de
+Provence), Polyommatus
+<span class = "pagenum">140</span>
+<a name = "page140" id = "page140"> </a>
+<!-- png 181 -->
+Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A&nbsp;little
+later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the
+Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, the A.&nbsp;Niobe, the
+A.&nbsp;Dia, the A.&nbsp;Aglaia, the A.&nbsp;Valenzina, the Arge Psyche,
+the Satyrus Circe, the S.&nbsp;Briseis, the S.&nbsp;Hermione, the
+S.&nbsp;Fidia, the S.&nbsp;Phædra, the S.&nbsp;Cordula, the
+S.&nbsp;Actoæ, the S.&nbsp;Semele, and the S.&nbsp;Bathseba, all common
+more or less throughout the summer.” &mdash;<i>W.&nbsp;A. Powell of the
+English Pharmacy of Hyères.</i></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Climate of Hyères.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "hyeres_climate" id =
+"hyeres_climate"><b>Climate.</b></a>&mdash;Hyères is especially fitted
+for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened
+constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all
+of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as
+it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require
+gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its
+climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable
+place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require
+the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns,
+and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on
+the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for
+the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the
+more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.”
+&mdash;<i>Dr. Edwin Lee.</i> The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F.,
+and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in
+England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold;
+and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not
+agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The
+climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and
+Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young
+persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either
+predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that
+disease.”</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans">THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.</h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11&nbsp;m.
+south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La
+Pauline station is <a href = "#mont_coudon">Mont Coudon</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;128, and <a href = "#map129">map p.&nbsp;129</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "giens" id = "giens">
+<span class = "headnote">Giens. Saltworks. Le Château.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for
+<a name = "la_plage" id = "la_plage">La Plage</a>, consisting of some
+pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From
+the pier the <i>Zephyr</i> sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to
+<a href = "#porquerolles">Porquerolles</a> (p.&nbsp;131). The beach
+adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.
+At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which
+connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼&nbsp;m. S., with the mainland. The
+large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour
+Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite
+(p.&nbsp;131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot
+and sandy, skirts <a name = "giens_saltworks" id =
+"giens_saltworks">large square basin-like marshes</a>, where salt is
+made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the
+south
+<span class = "pagenum">141</span>
+<a name = "page141" id = "page141"> </a>
+<!-- png 182 -->
+end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is
+heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on
+the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very
+fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the
+saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the
+Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of <a name =
+"le_chateau" id = "le_chateau"><b>Le Château</b></a>, with a neat church
+and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of
+uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of
+the two necks.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La
+Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of
+mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a
+house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the
+semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407
+ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys
+covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can
+be had on the isthmus.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station
+of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Les Salins. Pomponiana.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "les_salins" id = "les_salins"><b>Les Salins</b></a>, 18 m.
+from Toulon and 5&nbsp;from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to
+Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It
+traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive
+groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by
+feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind
+the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of
+sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins
+occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value
+of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the
+fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or
+busy season 300 (see <a href = "#map129">map, p.&nbsp;129</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Coach to Carqueyranne</b>, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast.
+After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the
+commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the
+peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost
+buried ruins of the Roman naval station of <a name = "pomponiana" id =
+"pomponiana"><b>Pomponiana</b></a>, some fine olive trees, and several
+villas. A&nbsp;road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an
+olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne,
+a&nbsp;small straggling village, from which the little port is about
+½&nbsp;m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon
+omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through
+the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne
+is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft.,
+and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from
+Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In
+Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and
+artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">142</span>
+<a name = "page142" id = "page142"> </a>
+<!-- png 183 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bormes.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "bormes" id = "bormes"><b>Coach to Bormes</b></a>, 14½ m. E.
+from Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les
+Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾&nbsp;m. E., a&nbsp;little
+village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road.
+Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St.
+Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes
+is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that
+long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In
+the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good
+view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old
+churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to
+Collobrières, 14&nbsp;m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the
+parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle,
+12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied
+by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to
+the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico,
+a&nbsp;pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon.
+Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from
+Bormes is Lavandou, a&nbsp;prosperous fishing village on the coast road
+from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are
+caught in the bay (see <a href = "#map123">map, p.&nbsp;123</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">49</span>
+<span class = "miles to">106</span>
+<a name = "la_pauline" id = "la_pauline"><b>LA PAULINE</b></a>, a few
+houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont Coudon. Junction with
+line to Hyères, 6½&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;Passengers who have missed the train
+for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café below. From La
+Pauline the train arrives at <a name = "sollies_pont" id =
+"sollies_pont"><b>Solliès-Pont</b></a>, pop. 3000; <i>Inns:</i>
+Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep
+hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of
+the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of
+the hill. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for
+<b>Collobrières</b> (see <a href = "#collobrieres">p.&nbsp;130</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Carnoules.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">63½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">91½</span>
+<a name = "carnoules" id = "carnoules"><b>CARNOULES.</b></a> <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52&nbsp;m. N.W., on
+the line between Marseilles and Aix.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gardanne. Barjols.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "gardanne_to_carnoules" id =
+"gardanne_to_carnoules">
+Gardanne to Carnoules.</a></h5>
+
+<p><a name = "gardanne" id = "gardanne"><b>Gardanne</b></a>, pop. 3100.
+H.&nbsp;Truc, with large coalfields, 11&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles and
+7&nbsp;m. S. from <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#aix_en_provence">Aix</a> (see p.&nbsp;77). On this line,
+16&nbsp;m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36&nbsp;m. E. from Gardanne, is
+<a name = "brignoles" id = "brignoles"><b>Brignoles</b></a>, pop. 6000, on
+the Carami. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather
+dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry
+trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are
+first carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently
+pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church,
+<span class = "pagenum">143</span>
+<a name = "page143" id = "page143"> </a>
+<!-- png 184 -->
+13th cent., is in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou,
+Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence,
+now the Sous Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the
+church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal
+vestments. Diligence daily to <a name = "barjols" id =
+"barjols"><b>Barjols</b></a>, 16½&nbsp;m. N., pop. 3000; H.&nbsp;Pont
+d’Or; situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (<a
+href = "#barjols_2">p.&nbsp;167</a>). Diligence also to Toulon by
+<a href = "#meounes">Meounes</a> (see p.&nbsp;129).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Maximin.</span></p>
+
+<p>On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is <a name =
+"st_maximin" id = "st_maximin"><b>St. Maximin</b></a>, 1043 ft. above
+the sea, pop. 3400. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;du Var; France. The church of
+this ancient town was commenced by Charles&nbsp;II. of Sicily towards
+the end of the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin,
+1st cent. It has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft.
+high, and the aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The
+width of the church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished.
+The interior of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10
+piers on each side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large
+and fine-toned organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist
+Fourcade playing upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the
+lovely screen of the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of
+Ste. Baume. Few parts of any church present such an admirable
+combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a
+Flemish monk, Frère Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured
+panels, each bearing within a wreath a representation in relief of one
+of the incidents in the life of some celebrated member of the order of
+St. Dominic. Under them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the
+rood-loft, and at the other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The
+entrance is by one door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and
+spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by
+Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and
+on the other side, in terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St.
+Maximin down in the crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at
+the east end of the N. aisle consists of a painting on wood by an
+Italian artist in 1520. In the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on
+each side 8 paintings on panels representing the Passion. Below, on the
+table of the altar, is an Entombment. In the second chapel from this is
+another reredos in the same style, representing St. Laurent, St.
+Anthony, St. Sebastian, and St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like
+recess, is a very ancient iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the
+pulpit is the entrance into the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th
+<span class = "pagenum">144</span>
+<a name = "page144" id = "page144"> </a>
+<!-- png 185 -->
+cents. The sculpture above the sound-board of the pulpit is of one
+piece, and represents the Ascension of Mary Magdalene. The undulating
+fluting on the panels and the sculpture on the railing are very
+graceful. Behind is the stair down to the crypt in which Mary Magdalene
+died after having swallowed a consecrated wafer given her by St.
+Maximin. Her body was afterwards put into the elaborately-carved
+alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of the altar. The marble
+sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the Innocents Mary is said
+to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite Mary’s is the marble
+sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then follow the sarcophagi,
+also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella (Mary’s maid) and St.
+Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been rifled at the
+Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the skull of Mary
+Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one of her
+armbones. (See also under <a href = "#six_fours">Six Fours</a>,
+p.&nbsp;123.) The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is said to
+have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque mountains, partly
+in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône,
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "mt_bretagne" id =
+"mt_bretagne">
+Mont Bretagne. Trets.</a></span>
+of which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it,
+coach to La Poussiere, 5½&nbsp;m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans,
+5 hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285
+ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See <a href = "#map123">map,
+p.&nbsp;123</a>.) 12&nbsp;m. W. from St. Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne
+is <a name = "trets" id = "trets"><b>Trets</b></a>, pop. 2200;
+<i>Inn:</i> France; a&nbsp;dirty town surrounded by its old walls
+garnished with square towers. In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but
+they are small and unimportant.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">75¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">79¾</span>
+<a name = "le_luc" id = "le_luc"><b>LE LUC</b></a> station, 1½ m. from
+the town, pop. 3900. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Rousse. Coach daily from the
+station by a beautiful road across the Maure mountains to St. Tropez,
+26&nbsp;m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5&nbsp;frs.
+Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the station, begins
+the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts, and firs. On
+the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and 12&nbsp;m. from Luc, is
+the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where the horses are
+changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of the strongholds
+of the Saracens. 17&nbsp;m. from Luc and 5&nbsp;from La Garde is, on an
+eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded
+streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The
+massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the
+top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and
+occupied till the
+<span class = "pagenum">145</span>
+<a name = "page145" id = "page145"> </a>
+<!-- png 186 -->
+middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, and 25½ E. from
+Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> Piffard; situated on an
+eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from which
+they were driven (<a href = "#page187">p.&nbsp;187</a>), and all the
+fortifications destroyed excepting one tower, now the town clock tower.
+By the roadside, about half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a
+very large fir tree. 32 m. N.E. from Hyères and 26&nbsp;m. S.E. from Luc
+station is</p>
+
+<p><a name = "st_tropez" id = "st_tropez"><b>St. Tropez</b></a>, pop.
+3300, <i>Inn:</i> Grand Hotel, a&nbsp;house with large rooms, at the
+head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the bay.
+The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is in
+the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast of
+the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall
+slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no
+apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the
+high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.”
+Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the
+hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour,
+opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of
+the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in
+Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The
+promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins
+of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St.
+Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to
+Hyères, 32½&nbsp;m.&nbsp;W.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Draguignan. Lorgues.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">84½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">70½</span>
+<a name = "les_arcs" id = "les_arcs"><b>LES ARCS</b></a>, pop. 1200,
+H.&nbsp;de France. Branch line 8&nbsp;m. N. to <a name = "draguignan" id
+= "draguignan"><b>Draguignan</b></a> on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. From the side of the
+H.&nbsp;Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, on the Bresque.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see <a href =
+"#map123">map, p.&nbsp;123</a>). From Salernes the coach proceeds to
+Aups, pop. 2350, on the Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½&nbsp;m. N.
+from Salernes. <i>Inn:</i> Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence
+to Manosque by <a href = "#riez">Riez</a> (see p.&nbsp;166). Also
+diligence to Brignoles by <a href = "#barjols">Barjols</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;143). From Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence,
+pop. 1000, situated half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to <a name =
+"lorgues" id = "lorgues"><b>Lorgues</b></a>, pop. 3000; <i>Inn:</i>
+Bonne Foy; 6&nbsp;m.&nbsp;W.</p>
+
+<p>Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains,
+which attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the
+clock-tower, 58 ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and
+of the surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and
+intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing
+<span class = "pagenum">146</span>
+<a name = "page146" id = "page146"> </a>
+<!-- png 187 -->
+thirteen rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row.
+The Jardin des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the
+ancient gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the
+principal products, ¾&nbsp;m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is
+a large dolmen composed of one flat stone resting on four similar
+stones. The top slab is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others
+are each 7 ft. high, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of
+markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument
+are an oak, a&nbsp;splendid specimen of a “micocoulier” (<i>Celtis
+australis</i>), and a juniper, 20 ft. high, of a very great age. The way
+to it is from the H.&nbsp;Bertin, ascend the street, and take the first
+road left. When within a few yards of the kilomètre stone, indicating 1
+kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the
+left, leading into an olive tree plantation (see <a href =
+"#map123">map, p.&nbsp;123</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Frejus. Colosseum.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">98</span>
+<span class = "miles to">57</span>
+<a name = "frejus" id = "frejus"><b>FREJUS</b></a>, pop. 3400,
+H.&nbsp;Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at the S.W.
+extremity of the Estérel mountains, a&nbsp;picturesque group 13&nbsp;m.
+from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en
+Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½&nbsp;m. E., passes by their
+highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm
+of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of
+the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre
+green pines which clothe these mountains.</p>
+
+<p>To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the
+Porte de Gaules, and the <a name = "frejus_colosseum" id =
+"frejus_colosseum"><b>Colosseum</b></a>, or Arènes, of which the
+greatest diameter was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000
+spectators. On the eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and
+the terrace called the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a
+Roman lighthouse. At this part are remains of Roman towers and walls.
+The masonry throughout is admirable, composed of stones of the size of
+large bricks. The Porte Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick.
+Having visited the ruins by the side of the railway, pass up by the
+church, and leave the town by a road having on the left hand a large
+building&mdash;the seminary. Having walked a few paces, there will be
+seen to the left rather an ugly square tower, which marks the site of
+the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in this neighbourhood are the
+remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to Frejus from the
+Siagnole, near Mons, 24&nbsp;m. N.E., and contained 87 arches. To the
+right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) powerful masonry.
+Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part of the town is
+the parish church, which, with the adjoining
+<span class = "pagenum">147</span>
+<a name = "page147" id = "page147"> </a>
+<!-- png 189 -->
+“éveché,” belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the
+baptistery. In the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and
+well-executed caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and
+glimpses of the Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The
+Phœnician merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum
+Julii or Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or
+Agde. Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.</p>
+
+<!-- png 188 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 146</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">the ESTÉREL MOUNTAINS</span><br>
+with <span class = "smallcaps">FREJUS and S<sup>t</sup>. RAPHAËL<br>
+to CANNES</span><br>
+<a name = "map146" id = "map146" href = "images/map146.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map146thumb.png" width = "458" height = "235"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Saint Raphael.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">100½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">54½</span>
+<a name = "st_raphael" id = "st_raphael"><b>SAINT RAPHAEL</b></a>, a
+rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In winter its guests come
+from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and in summer from the hot
+interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the still more refreshing
+sea-bathing. <i>Hotels:</i> close to the station, the France, 8 to
+9&nbsp;frs. More expensive houses: G. H.&nbsp;de St. Raphael, on an
+eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H.&nbsp;des Bains, 9 to
+13 frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the
+cottage built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel.
+Little steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to <a href =
+"#hyeres">Hyères</a> (p.&nbsp;134). Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and
+Valescure, 2&nbsp;m. inland, with G. H.&nbsp;de Valescure. St. Raphael,
+only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a salubrious and agreeable residence,
+with pleasant walks, either by the beach or up the valley of the Garonne
+into the Estérel mountains, where the rambles are endless. At the E. end
+of St. Raphael is a very pleasant park, rising from the rocks on the
+coast. A&nbsp;little farther towards Cannes is the Boulerie, with a
+large hotel.</p>
+
+<p>Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and
+here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast
+are fine specimens of the <i>Pinus pinea</i>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Agay. Sainte Baume.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">105</span>
+<span class = "miles to">50</span>
+<a name = "agay" id = "agay"><b>AGAY</b></a>, a small custom-house
+station, with a few houses at the head of a small but deep bay, into
+which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top of the conical hill, on
+the S.W. side of the station, is the <b>Tour de Darmont</b>,
+a&nbsp;signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte
+Baume, 4½&nbsp;m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape
+Roux, 1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to
+the old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the
+railway to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds
+upwards to the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into
+the valley in an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of
+Cape Roux till a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a&nbsp;pathway
+will be seen going upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge
+is reached, close to the summit,
+<span class = "pagenum">148</span>
+<a name = "page148" id = "page148"> </a>
+<!-- png 190 -->
+where is a splendid view to the east and west and north-west; then take
+to the left, and in a few hundred yards a platform, with a spout of
+running water and a couple of abandoned buildings, is reached. Distance
+about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above this, in the face of the rock, is
+<a name = "ste_baume" id = "ste_baume"><b>La Sainte Baume</b></a>, the holy
+cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a
+hermit’s life for some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide
+path seen from the hermitage leading westward to the river in the
+valley. On the way remark, on the left hand, a&nbsp;truncated stone
+pillar, a&nbsp;Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archæologists
+base upon the existence of this stone their assertion that the Via
+Aurelia passed this way. At the bottom of the valley cross the
+Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Trayas.</span></p>
+
+<p>After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a
+magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at
+<a name = "le_trayas" id = "le_trayas"><b>Le Trayas</b></a>, the next and
+last station before reaching Cannes, 11&nbsp;m. E. from St. Raphael,
+6¼&nbsp;m. E. from Agay, and 8¾&nbsp;m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas also
+a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered nearer
+though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train passes
+from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes Maritimes,
+then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having passed the
+pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the
+beautifully-situated town of Cannes.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cannes.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 191 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 149</span>
+<a name = "map149" id = "map149" href = "images/map149.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map149thumb.png" width = "486" height = "156"
+alt = "plan of Cannes" title = "CANNES"></a><br>
+[East Edge: Northward Arrow] <i>To Villa Nevada</i><br>
+[East Edge: Southward Arrow] <i>To Hotel California</i>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">149</span>
+<a name = "page149" id = "page149"> </a>
+<!-- png 192 -->
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannes" id = "cannes">
+CANNES,</a></h5>
+
+<p>on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79&nbsp;m. N.E.
+from Toulon, 78¼&nbsp;m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Nice. Fixed population, 19,400. <a name = "cannes_hotels" id =
+"cannes_hotels"><b>Hotels and Pensions.</b></a>&mdash;Although there are
+already very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas
+there are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to
+resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the
+1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200,
+including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens
+attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett,
+agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a
+well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the
+public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25
+frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A&nbsp;fair
+gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per
+day.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cannes: Hotels and Pensions.</span></p>
+
+<p>Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels
+and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir,
+8&nbsp;frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the
+Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther
+up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8&nbsp;frs. Near Trinity
+Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden
+fronting the promenade.</p>
+
+<p>Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the
+hotels, 1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the
+sea, is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable
+to produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore
+many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. <i>Hotels:</i>
+fronting station, the Négociants; the <a class = "tag" name = "tag_2" id
+= "tag_2" href = "#note_2">1 </a>*Univers, 7½ to 9&nbsp;frs. In the
+Allées, on the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R.
+d’Antibes, the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the
+H.&nbsp;Russie, 9 to 12 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "footnote">
+<a name = "note_2" id = "note_2" href = "#tag_2">1</a>
+The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name of hotel indicates
+that it is one of the best of its class.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hotels to the east of the Allées</i>, fronting the beach, taking
+them in the order from west to east:&mdash;The National, 9 to 15 frs.;
+Midi, 8 to 12 frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage;
+the last four are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The
+<span class = "pagenum">150</span>
+<a name = "page150" id = "page150"> </a>
+<!-- png 193 -->
+H.&nbsp;Suisse; Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to
+12 frs. Behind the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H.&nbsp;Midi,
+in the R.&nbsp;Bossu, No. 8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the
+Louvre; H.&nbsp;Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor;
+La Paix. A&nbsp;little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H.&nbsp;de
+France; H.&nbsp;Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs.</p>
+
+<p>Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels
+Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;
+Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H.&nbsp;de
+Californie is the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday
+morning, 28th March 1884.</p>
+
+<p>In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard
+Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont;
+all with gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension
+Lerins, a&nbsp;plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8&nbsp;frs.
+A&nbsp;little higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St.
+Paul; whence a road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a
+first-class house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to
+15 frs. Next it is the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well
+inland, on the Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to
+20 frs.</p>
+
+<p>On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is
+the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the
+H.&nbsp;Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the
+beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to
+10 frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is
+the H.&nbsp;Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A&nbsp;little beyond is Christ
+Church, and on an eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs.,
+a&nbsp;large house with garden. Farther west, and considerably inland,
+upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind
+the Rothschild villa; and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord
+Brougham’s villa. Farther west, and on the same level, is the
+H.&nbsp;Estérel, same price. On a hill, a&nbsp;little beyond the perfume
+distillery of M.&nbsp;Lubin, is the Pension de la Tour, well situated,
+and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is called La Bocca, and
+sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. From this a road
+runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are fields of the
+fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the <a href =
+"#perfumery">perfumeries</a> (see page 161).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cannes: Churches. Cab Fares. Steamers.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "cannes_churches" id =
+"cannes_churches"><i>Churches.</i></a>&mdash;Christ Church, Rue de
+Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard
+<span class = "pagenum">151</span>
+<a name = "page151" id = "page151"> </a>
+<!-- png 194 -->
+du Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.
+Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid
+Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue
+Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.</p>
+
+<p>Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the
+office of Cook &amp; Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are
+sold.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "cannes_cabs" id = "cannes_cabs"><i>Cab
+Fares.</i></a>&mdash;One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the
+hour, 2½ frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2&nbsp;frs.; the hour,
+3½ frs. Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. <a name = "cannes_steamers" id =
+"cannes_steamers"><i>Steamers</i></a> from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for
+Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and
+St. Honorat, 1 and 2&nbsp;frs. there and back. On Thursdays and
+Saturdays trips to Theoule, 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "cannes_brougham" id =
+"cannes_brougham">
+<span class = "headnote"> Lord Brougham.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan,
+and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and
+gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it
+extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills,
+and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square,
+called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at
+the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110
+wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H.&nbsp;Splendide. Between
+them is a marble statue, life-size, “A&nbsp;Lord Brougham, né à
+Edinburgh, le 19 Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is
+in his official robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm,
+he holds a rose. The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and
+interesting collections illustrating the natural history of the
+neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every assistance in naming
+the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the
+adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the
+Church of Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the
+15th. In front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it
+are St. Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square
+tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert&nbsp;II., of the monastery
+of St. Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the
+tower is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new
+cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The
+monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing
+the following inscription:&mdash; “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.
+Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose,
+K.T., died December 1874.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "cannes_climate" id = "cannes_climate"><i>The
+climate</i></a>, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In
+<span class = "pagenum">152</span>
+<a name = "page152" id = "page152"> </a>
+<!-- png 195 -->
+nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but
+on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced.
+The mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy
+days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as
+at Nice. “The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as
+its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties
+of the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic
+temperaments.” &mdash;Madden’s <i>Resorts</i>. “While Cannes, therefore,
+possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and
+many classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating
+atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those
+suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” &mdash;<i>Dr.
+Hassall.</i></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cannes: Drives.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "cannes_drives" id =
+"cannes_drives"><i>Drives.</i></a>&mdash;In Cannes there are great
+facilities for driving in carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The
+omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of
+the Cours (Allées de la Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the
+Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge
+for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen
+carry their tariffs with them, and are bound to show them when required.
+Copies of the “Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the
+Kiosque on the Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at
+the rate of 3&nbsp;frs. for a 25 frs. fare.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Road to Vallauris.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannes_corniche" id = "cannes_corniche">
+THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The best of the drives is to <a name = "vallauris_road" id =
+"vallauris_road"><b>Vallauris</b></a> by the low road to the Golfe de
+Jouan, 4&nbsp;m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2&nbsp;m. N.,
+and 250 ft. above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½&nbsp;m.
+S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs.
+Cab with one horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris,
+1&nbsp;fr. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a
+delightful and easy walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris
+bridge a little below Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road.
+About ½&nbsp;m. from the bridge is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,”
+where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view
+east from Cannes to Bordighera. About half-way between this and the
+observatory at the Cannes or S.W. end of the road is the large hotel
+Cannes-Eden.</p>
+
+<p>The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in <a name =
+"la_californie" id = "la_californie">La Californie</a>, is 545 ft. above
+the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1&nbsp;fr.
+each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which
+supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the
+<span class = "pagenum">153</span>
+<a name = "page153" id = "page153"> </a>
+<!-- png 196 -->
+other branch, by which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the
+Belle-Vue hotel on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal
+commences near the source of the Siagne, a&nbsp;few miles from St.
+Cesaire.</p>
+
+<p>From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still
+higher summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère.
+The view is similar, including more of the interior. A&nbsp;short
+distance N.E. from this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which
+from the top looks as if it were nearly over Antibes.</p>
+
+<p>Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from
+Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de
+Jouan station is C.&nbsp;Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the
+road towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (<a href =
+"#antibes">p.&nbsp;169</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vallauris. Pottery. Mines.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "vallauris" id = "vallauris"><b>Vallauris</b></a>, pop.
+4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and restaurants. The omnibus
+stops in the “Place” opposite the church and the Hôtel de Ville,
+containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that “the
+Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32d year of his
+tribunician authority.” Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in
+diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of <a name =
+"vallauris_pottery" id = "vallauris_pottery">kitchen pottery</a>,
+“Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the
+“marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without
+cracking. A&nbsp;dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for
+2&nbsp;frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture
+of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the
+showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan.
+Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up
+northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the
+Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets
+the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up
+road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the <a name =
+"vallauris_mines" id = "vallauris_mines">clay-mines</a>. The entrances
+into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The
+colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various
+shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are
+made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near
+Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery.</span></p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vallauris_to_antibes" id =
+"vallauris_to_antibes">
+Vallauris to Antibes.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes
+traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having
+passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick
+and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind,
+extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed,
+and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to
+Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. <a href = "#cap_antibes">154</a> and
+<a href = "#antibes">169</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">154</span>
+<a name = "page154" id = "page154"> </a>
+<!-- png 197 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cannet. La Croisette.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannet" id = "cannet">
+CANNET.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is
+<b>Cannet</b>, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the
+H. *Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A&nbsp;little to the east of the church Ste.
+Philomène is a smaller house, the H.&nbsp;and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10
+frs. Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858
+the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none
+of those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the
+church is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous.
+Cab to Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>Drive to <a name = "la_croisette" id = "la_croisette"><b>La
+Croisette</b></a>, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beautiful
+road 2&nbsp;m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½ fr.,
+or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2&nbsp;frs. Tram, 6 sous.
+Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive
+by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the
+entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The
+trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they
+were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost
+about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are
+those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process,
+and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there
+is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications
+begun by Richelieu, but never completed.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes</i>, 7 m. E.&nbsp;Cab with 1 horse and 2
+seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30
+frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it
+starts from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,”
+fare 1&nbsp;fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the
+H.&nbsp;Escouffier and the H.&nbsp;des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to
+8&nbsp;frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station.
+Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by
+Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side
+of the entrance. From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high
+walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen
+distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland
+from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther
+west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped
+with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers.
+One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry;
+the other forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du
+Recrutement.”</p>
+
+<!-- png 198 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 155</span>
+CANNES &amp; ENVIRONS<br>
+<a name = "map155" id = "map155" href = "images/map155.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map155thumb.png" width = "452" height = "277"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cap d’Antibes. Lighthouse.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The <a name = "cap_antibes" id = "cap_antibes"><b>Cap d’Antibes</b></a>
+affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the “Cap” from
+Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the
+<span class = "pagenum">155</span>
+<a name = "page155" id = "page155"> </a>
+<!-- png 199 -->
+Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the
+first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. Ascend
+the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via Crucis,”
+bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some
+part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N.&nbsp;D. d’Antibes,
+frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the
+building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the <a name = "lighthouse" id
+= "lighthouse">lighthouse</a> built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the
+sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the
+top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for
+one person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the
+road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a&nbsp;first-class
+house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret
+are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical
+trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into
+France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For
+<a href = "#antibes">Antibes</a>, see also p.&nbsp;169.) The great tower on
+a rock to the W., overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Croix des Gardes. Theoule.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.</b>&mdash;<a name =
+"croix_des_gardes" id = "croix_des_gardes"><i>La Croix des
+Gardes</i></a>, 2½&nbsp;m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest
+way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel.
+The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is
+extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable
+plantations of the <i>Acacia farnesiana</i>, from whose flowers a
+pleasant perfume is distilled.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "napoule" id = "napoule"><i>Cannes to Napoule</i></a>, 6 m. W,
+Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16
+frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for
+the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50
+c.; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk
+on to <a name = "theoule" id = "theoule"><b>Theoule</b></a> and back,
+2&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;The Napoule road commences from the western, or what
+is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little
+Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public
+gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal
+Chapels. A&nbsp;short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is
+the villa Eléonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden
+among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress
+trees growing by the side of the rail. Three&nbsp;m. from Cannes, on an
+eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the
+road, is the poor little chapel of <a name = "st_cassien" id =
+"st_cassien">St. Cassien</a>, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is
+held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in
+Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side
+of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a
+very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to
+the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of
+the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at
+Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct,
+a&nbsp;narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From
+Theoule a road extends to Trayas.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Estérel. Pégomas.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "esterel" id = "esterel"><i>Cannes to the Inn of
+Estérel</i></a>, 12&nbsp;m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.
+<span class = "pagenum">156</span>
+<a name = "page156" id = "page156"> </a>
+<!-- png 200 -->
+Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18
+frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca
+and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or
+north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265 ft.,
+a&nbsp;little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. Afterwards
+the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. above the
+sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst
+picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The inn is
+situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet,
+876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. above the
+inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near the inn. The
+culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about 1¼&nbsp;m.
+west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost immediately
+below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the
+Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of <a name =
+"pegomas" id = "pegomas"><b>Pégomas</b></a>, pop. 1350, on the
+Mourachone, a&nbsp;slow-running stream, in some parts hidden among
+bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk
+up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or 16 frs.; 1 hour’s
+rest.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+About 3 m. N.W. is <a name = "auribeau" id =
+"auribeau"><b>Auribeau</b></a>, pop. 480, prettily situated on the
+Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mougins. Castelaras.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is <a name =
+"mougins" id = "mougins"><b>Mougins</b></a>, pop. 1680. The road ascends
+all the way, passing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large
+olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about
+¼&nbsp;m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab there and back, one horse, 12
+frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest. Mougins still retains a few
+low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the
+shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from
+the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful
+view. To the west is La Roquette, N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond
+Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and on the border of the Estérels, is
+the village of Mandelieu.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the
+new road, is <a name = "castelaras" id =
+"castelaras"><b>Castelaras</b></a>, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a
+villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of
+Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to the
+north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, and the
+Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to the south.
+The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to
+Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the
+east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and tower are
+distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther
+north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Sail by steamboat</i> to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer
+makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste.
+Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the
+steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">157</span>
+<a name = "page157" id = "page157"> </a>
+<!-- png 201 -->
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "iles_lerins" id = "iles_lerins">
+ILES DE LERINS.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½&nbsp;m.
+from the mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at
+Point Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu,
+containing the apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the
+far more interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was
+closely guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the
+only communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into
+the house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a
+road, bordered by the <i>Eucalyptus globulus</i>, goes right through the
+pine plantation to the other side of the island.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "iron_mask" id = "iron_mask">
+<span class = "headnote">The Man of the Iron Mask.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli,
+a&nbsp;Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On
+the 13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard
+Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which
+has long since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader
+in the University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service
+of Charles&nbsp;III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made
+Secretary of State. The successor of Charles&nbsp;III., Ferdinand
+Charles IV., the last sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga,
+created Matthioli supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the
+title of Count. Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador
+from France to the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was
+well aware would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his
+master, Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand
+Charles to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale,
+a&nbsp;strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The
+cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus,
+Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont,
+while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and
+fertile plains of Milan.</p>
+
+<p>The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the
+prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication
+between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the
+person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and
+was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the
+schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French
+court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV.,
+<span class = "pagenum">158</span>
+<a name = "page158" id = "page158"> </a>
+<!-- png 202 -->
+who at the same time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly
+after Matthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over
+by the Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so
+exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé
+Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond
+Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé,
+accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach
+of international law required the adoption of extraordinary
+precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang, he
+was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled armed
+attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made any
+attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in
+prison, till orders came from Paris, stating&mdash; “It is not the
+intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well treated,
+nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life, nor
+anything to make his time pass agreeably.” He was handed over to the
+charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence in
+1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars removed
+his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste. Marguerite,
+where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of twelve days.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’
+sojourn on the island are:&mdash;On one occasion he is alleged to have
+written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the
+window. A&nbsp;fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who,
+on finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion
+Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing, which
+he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk, who, when
+he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not read it. Two
+days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of these stories is
+to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the Minister, dated 4th June
+1692, in which he informs him that he has been obliged to inflict
+corporeal punishment upon a Protestant clergyman named Salves, also in
+his keeping, because he would write things on his pewter vessels and
+linen, to make known that he was imprisoned unjustly on account of the
+purity of his faith.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place
+St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September
+1698.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the 19th November 1703, about 10 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span>, Matthioli died in the Bastile, after a few
+hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> in the cemetery of St. Paul.&mdash;Extracted
+from the <i>History of the Bastile</i>, by R.&nbsp;A. Davenport.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+The Island of St. Honorat. Abbey. Massacre.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Island of <a name = "st_honorat" id = "st_honorat"><b>St.
+Honorat</b></a> contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste. Marguerite,
+from which it is 750 yards distant. A&nbsp;pleasant road of 2½&nbsp;m.,
+shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight
+<span class = "pagenum">159</span>
+<a name = "page159" id = "page159"> </a>
+<!-- png 203 -->
+from the landing-place is a <a name = "honorat_abbey" id =
+"honorat_abbey">convent</a> of Cistercian monks, settled here only since
+1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410. In 730
+and 891 the <a name = "honorat_massacre" id =
+"honorat_massacre">Saracens</a> invaded the island, pillaged the
+establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again
+flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume
+Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the tower
+on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert&nbsp;II. commenced the
+castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the
+fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on
+account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and
+buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of
+Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a&nbsp;colony of
+Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay
+brethren.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what
+Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany
+and southern Italy, <b>St. Honorat</b> was to the church of southern
+Gaul. For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district
+between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of
+Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the
+barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the
+Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as
+Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the more
+illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had been
+reared at Lerins. To <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#arles">Arles</a> (p.&nbsp;70) it gave in succession Hilary,
+Cæsarius, and Virgilius.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the
+massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on the
+little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing
+in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent.”
+&mdash;J.&nbsp;R. Green’s <i>Stray Studies</i>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_honorat_castle" id =
+"st_honorat_castle">
+<span class = "headnote">St. Honorat: Castle.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall
+rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting
+cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a large
+hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and by
+others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In the
+wall, a&nbsp;little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the
+ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took possession
+of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown by the
+concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong cloister,
+in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor of the first
+is supported on short columns standing round the edge of a cistern. From
+this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and refectory. From the
+upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel, which opened into the
+library. Above the library was the infirmary, of which not a vestige
+remains. A&nbsp;good view is had from the top. Visitors are next taken
+to the convent. The church and buildings are
+<span class = "pagenum">160</span>
+<a name = "page160" id = "page160"> </a>
+<!-- png 204 -->
+modern, excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend
+much time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last
+steamer, and have consequently little time to spare.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chapel of the Trinity.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th
+cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the
+wall of the convent, a&nbsp;little to the west of the castle, the Chapel
+of St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At
+the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel
+of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large
+gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St.
+Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a
+stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught different
+trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to their support.
+On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is the most
+interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *<a name = "chapel_trinity"
+id = "chapel_trinity"><b>Trinity</b></a>, 35 ft. long by about 25 wide,
+placed from east to west. The great corner-stones of this small temple,
+by their size and solidity, are the main supports of the building,
+illustrating thereby the reason why in Scripture so much importance and
+honour are attached to them in edifices. The roof of the nave is
+semicircular, strengthened by three arches, the centre one springing
+from two round columns. The roofs of the three apsidal chapels are
+semispherical.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "grasse" id = "grasse"><b>Cannes to Grasse</b></a>, 12½ m. N.
+by rail, pop. 12,100. <i>Hotels:</i> the G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;International,
+9 to 12 frs., a&nbsp;first-class house on the road to Le Bar. In the
+town, H.&nbsp;Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their omnibuses await
+passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the stair to the right of
+the station, and then the steep road on the other side of the highway.
+Grasse, a&nbsp;town of charming views, delicious water, and the best of
+air, makes an excellent and beneficial change from Cannes. The town,
+with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, crooked, steep streets, is
+situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the southern slope of Mt.
+Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly 695 ft. above the town.
+To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, 2920 ft. above the sea. The
+short but stony road to the top of Rocavignon commences opposite the
+fountain used by the washerwomen. On the summit is a stony plateau,
+commanding extensive and exquisite views.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "plain_napoleon" id =
+"plain_napoleon">
+Plain of Napoleon.</a></span>
+A&nbsp;little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of Napoleon,
+because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot of the three
+tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the face of the
+large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a cavern or
+“foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a&nbsp;large body of water issues in
+the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down into the
+beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther inland. It
+joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from the plateau,
+which, after passing the large white house, a&nbsp;hospice for the aged,
+enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of St. Sauveur,
+a&nbsp;little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, built in
+the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this way, and
+just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, is the
+hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel,
+<span class = "pagenum">161</span>
+<a name = "page161" id = "page161"> </a>
+<!-- png 205 -->
+in which are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to
+Rubens&mdash;the Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the
+Crucifixion. The concierge uncovers them. Immediately below, and
+opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house of
+M.&nbsp;Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse,
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "fragonard" id = "fragonard">
+Jean Fragonard.</a></span>
+Jean Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are
+five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing
+frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue
+des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some
+decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are
+shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church,
+built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It
+contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of
+Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the east
+end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining is the
+Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of the 11th
+cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal
+square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the sides
+arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the Palais de
+Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Perfumery.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "perfumery" id = "perfumery">
+PERFUMERY.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and the
+preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces resembling
+great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are the Otto of
+Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of rose leaves
+(petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto of Roses,
+which costs from 2½ to 3&nbsp;frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy of the
+petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which costs 8 to 10
+sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, is made from the
+flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used principally in the
+manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it constitutes the base. In
+colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is that of Eau de Cologne. The
+water that comes off in distilling Néroly forms the orange-water of the
+cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is superior to that of Turkey.
+Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs are made from
+freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of glass, held by their
+frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the other, without pressing
+the flowers. On each side of the glass is a layer of lard ⅓ of an inch
+thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs completely the odoriferous oil.
+When the flowers are abundant they are renewed every 12 hours, sometimes
+even every 6. The operation is repeated several times on the same lard
+with fresh flowers. Jonquilles are changed 30 times, the cassia and
+violet 60, the tuberose (a&nbsp;kind of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both
+80 times. The lard is then melted in a large iron vessel, and mixed with
+spirits made from grain, which, combining with the volatile oil, rises
+to the top. The fluid is then filtered.
+<span class = "pagenum">162</span>
+<a name = "page162" id = "page162"> </a>
+<!-- png 206 -->
+This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals require the hot
+methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.” The distilling of
+the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most vigilant attention,
+and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. Rose and orange pomade
+are made by the bain-marie method by submerging a large iron pot full of
+lard in boiling water. When the lard is melted the petals are added, and
+after having remained there for 12 or 24 hours the mass is filtered to
+remove the now inodorous petals. The operation is repeated from 30 to 60
+times, according to the required strength of the perfume. The red Turkey
+rose is the only rose used.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of
+*Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved fruits,
+which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the
+glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams
+and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the perfumery
+of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be made from a
+franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of Warwick and Co., and
+in the B.&nbsp;Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of whom supply
+Atkinson of London with the raw material.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Cesaire. Cannes Canal. Callian.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "st_cesaire" id = "st_cesaire"><i>Grasse to St.
+Cesaire.</i></a>&mdash;9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there and
+back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little village, pop.
+350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 feet above the
+sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a large elm in the
+“Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la Siagne (pension from 6
+to 8&nbsp;frs.), where those who desire to fish in the river or ramble
+in the environs can live comfortably. From the end of the street, right
+from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence there is a view of the
+valley of the Siagne, with the <a name = "cannes_canal" id =
+"cannes_canal">Cannes canal</a> on its eastern side. The path to the
+cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the upper side of this canal, and
+requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The commencement of the Cannes Canal is
+about a half-hour’s walk farther up. No guide is necessary, unless it be
+desired to inspect the cave with lights. Guide, 5&nbsp;frs. Like the
+more famous caves of Cahors and of <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#vaucluse">Vaucluse</a> (p.&nbsp;64), this cavern or “foux,”
+at the base of a calcareous cliff, contains a great basin of limpid
+water, but no stalactites. The Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered
+conduit 31&nbsp;m. long, exposed to animal and vegetable impurities
+throughout nearly its entire course. Of greater interest is the
+commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water from the
+Siagnole to <a href = "#frejus">Frejus</a> (p.&nbsp;146, and <a href =
+"#map129">map, p.&nbsp;<ins class = "correction"
+title = "text reads ‘117’">129</ins></a>) by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of
+the size of bricks, through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27
+wide, and 82 high, in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by
+the Roman engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited
+from Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3&nbsp;m. distant by a
+bridle-path, <i>Inn:</i> Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this
+village the tunnel is about 9&nbsp;m. distant by an excellent
+carriage-road. 1½&nbsp;m. from Montauroux is the village <a name =
+"callian" id = "callian"><b>Callian</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> Castel, 1200
+ft., supplied with water by the Roman aqueduct.</p>
+
+
+<!-- png 207 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 163</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+THE DURANCE, THE VAR,<br>
+the col di tenda, san remo</span><br>
+<i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "turin" href =
+"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br>
+<i>For continuation eastwards see <a href = "#map211">map, page
+211</a>.</i><br>
+<a name = "map163" id = "map163" href = "images/map163.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map163thumb.png" width = "462" height = "209"
+alt = "see caption"></a><br>
+<i>For continuation westwards see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br>
+<i>For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map123">map, page
+123</a>.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and
+<span class = "pagenum">163</span>
+<a name = "page163" id = "page163"> </a>
+<!-- png 208 -->
+situated at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of <a name
+= "mons" id = "mons"><b>Mons</b></a>. Those who have already seen such
+caves will find in this one nothing new nor striking. To visit it not
+only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of the cave at Mons must be
+advised beforehand, that he may be at the mouth of the cave with the
+key. It is much the better plan to return from the commencement of the
+Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive back to Grasse. The olives of St.
+Cesaire are considered among the best flavoured of the Riviera.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "grasse_to_cagnes" id =
+"grasse_to_cagnes">
+Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Grasse</b> to the railway station of <b>Cagnes</b> by the <b>Pont du
+Loup</b> and <b>Vence</b>, 21&nbsp;m. By omnibus, 3&nbsp;frs. By private
+carriage, 30 frs. This drive is generally taken in two
+parts&mdash;Grasse to the Pont du Loup; then from the Pont du Loup to
+Vence or Cagnes.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pont du Loup. Tourette.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "pont_du_loup" id = "pont_du_loup"><i>Grasse to the Pont du
+Loup by Le Bar</i></a>, 7½&nbsp;m. N.E. Carriage with two horses there
+and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1&nbsp;fr. Distance,
+5½&nbsp;m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2&nbsp;m. up the valley
+of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the Gorge du
+Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the ravine of the
+Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, which requires a
+good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole way from Grasse to
+Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on the same level (1090
+ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at every turn exquisite
+views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its little cluster of
+houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long narrow valley, just
+at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a rocky gorge. On the top
+of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du Loup, is the village of
+Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church of Le Bar there is an
+excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the Loup, and of the
+carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit the Pont du Loup
+generally content themselves with a ramble in the gorge, and then, after
+having taken some refreshments, either return to Grasse or go on to the
+railway station of <a href = "#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;169), 13½&nbsp;m. farther, or 21&nbsp;m. from Grasse. The drive
+from Grasse to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs.
+The very same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence,
+15&nbsp;m. eastward. Fare, 2&nbsp;frs. Time, 4 hours. A&nbsp;seat should
+be taken in the “Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes
+railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1&nbsp;fr. Time, 1 hour.
+Distance, 6&nbsp;m. The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow
+the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of <a name
+= "tourette" id = "tourette"><b>Tourette</b></a>, pop. 980, at the foot
+of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the omnibus
+halts.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vence.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vence" id = "vence"><b>Vence</b></a>, 1100 ft. above the sea,
+pop. 2800. <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or, pension 9&nbsp;frs. Picturesquely
+situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees
+and studded with houses standing singly and in clusters. This, the
+ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its
+<span class = "pagenum">164</span>
+<a name = "page164" id = "page164"> </a>
+<!-- png 209 -->
+old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.) next the
+gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of
+Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in the style of
+the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no
+space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of
+Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, 68 ft.
+wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with massive piers
+and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave.
+Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir,
+containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the
+altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N.E. corner
+of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which,
+unfortunately, a&nbsp;large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the
+ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the
+square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end,
+stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the
+second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned
+this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years
+Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the
+chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault
+of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present “Place” behind the
+chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on
+the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still
+larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing
+cocks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved
+door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or
+15th cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Roche-Blanche. Rocher-Noir.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs,
+extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea.
+The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the <a name =
+"roche_blanche" id = "roche_blanche"><b>Roche-Blanche</b></a>,
+commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled
+village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of
+the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow
+path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes
+of the prickly broom. The next hill is the <a name = "rocher_noir" id =
+"rocher_noir"><b>Rocher-Noir</b></a>, having on its eastern side, right
+above the bed of the Cagnes, a&nbsp;“foux,” an immense cave called the
+Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream.
+It is 3½&nbsp;m. from Vence. The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and
+bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing
+one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the
+first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable
+in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2&nbsp;frs. the litre
+bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in
+hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the
+rate of 3s. 8d. the pound. A&nbsp;woman will gather 4 kilogrammes
+(8&nbsp;lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d.
+the kilo.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">165</span>
+<a name = "page165" id = "page165"> </a>
+<!-- png 210 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cagnes.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole
+way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with
+part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. 1500.
+The coach drives through the low or modern town of <a name = "cagnes" id
+= "cagnes"><b>Cagnes</b></a>. <i>Inn:</i> Savournin, not comfortable
+during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual,
+a&nbsp;hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi,
+a&nbsp;polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who
+has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Dorée,
+representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture
+gallery. A&nbsp;little way down from the castle are the ruins of the
+small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good
+preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence.
+(For the <a href = "#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes station</a>, see
+p.&nbsp;169.)</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Vallier.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "st_vallier" id = "st_vallier">
+ST. VALLIER.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "grasse_to_digne" id = "grasse_to_digne"><b>Grasse to
+Digne</b></a>, 63 m. north.&mdash;By the courrier 16 frs., changing
+coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles
+4&nbsp;frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By
+private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at
+Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting
+at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see <a href = "#map163">map,
+p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises
+at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier (2350 ft.
+above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½&nbsp;m. distant,
+population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand
+views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains.
+The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the
+“Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon&nbsp;I.,
+indicating the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is
+about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges
+per day from 8 to 9&nbsp;frs. A&nbsp;carriage from this hotel, towards
+the Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½&nbsp;m., costs 5&nbsp;frs. The
+remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A&nbsp;carriage from
+Grasse to St. Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The
+Pont-à-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a
+bridge, like the “Pont” across the Ardèche.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep
+sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles,
+a&nbsp;hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside
+inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282
+ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18&nbsp;m. north from Grasse.
+A&nbsp;little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley,
+one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from
+Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded
+mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Castellane. Taulanne. Barrème.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is <a name =
+"castellane" id = "castellane"><b>Castellane</b></a>, 2370 ft. above the
+sea. Pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Levant; Commerce. A&nbsp;village of crooked
+streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one
+<span class = "pagenum">166</span>
+<a name = "page166" id = "page166"> </a>
+<!-- png 211 -->
+arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the
+chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive
+prospect. Napoleon&nbsp;I. descended into Italy by the road on the left
+bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night
+here. A&nbsp;small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which,
+although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad
+weather. 18&nbsp;m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is <a href =
+"#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Sainte Marie</a> (see p.&nbsp;167).
+From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the
+Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to <a name = "taulanne" id =
+"taulanne"><b>Taulanne</b></a>, 7&nbsp;m. N.W. from Castellane. From
+Taulanne the road descends 5&nbsp;m. S., chiefly through a picturesque
+ravine, to <a name = "senez" id = "senez"><b>Senez</b></a>, pop. 620,
+among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river
+Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to
+1242.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is <a name =
+"barreme" id = "barreme"><b>Barrème</b></a>, pop. 1100, on the
+confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and
+the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits,
+especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road
+from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the
+Asse and the Clumane.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Digne.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "digne" id = "digne"><b>Digne</b></a>, pop. 8000, 2000 ft.
+above the sea, 14&nbsp;m. E. by loop-line from the station St. Auban on
+the main line. St. Auban is 80½&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles, 62¼&nbsp;m.
+N. from Aix, and 20½&nbsp;m. N. from Manosque. It is 109½&nbsp;m. S.
+from Grenoble; 45½&nbsp;m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the road from
+Die; 41&nbsp;m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap;
+and 31¾&nbsp;m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see
+map of Rhône and Savoy). <i>Hotels:</i> Boyer; Remusat, both in the
+Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one
+of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the
+capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from
+the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral,
+and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more
+interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the
+historic monuments of France. 1¼&nbsp;m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the
+foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Fahr.,
+efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2&nbsp;frs. From
+Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good
+resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable
+and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supply carriages at so much
+per day (see <a href = "#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Riez. Barjols.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is
+to <a name = "riez" id = "riez"><b>Riez</b></a>, 26&nbsp;m. S.W., fare
+4&nbsp;frs., time 4½ hrs., a&nbsp;great diligence centre. Riez, pop.
+3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22&nbsp;m.
+W., by Allemagne, 5&nbsp;m.; St. Martin, 8&nbsp;m.; and to <a href =
+"#greoulx">Gréoulx</a> (see p.&nbsp;167), 12½&nbsp;m. S.W. from Riez,
+and 9½&nbsp;m. E. from Manosque, fare 4&nbsp;frs. For <a href =
+"#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Sainte Marie</a> (see p.&nbsp;167),
+9&nbsp;m.&nbsp;E.,
+<span class = "pagenum">167</span>
+<a name = "page167" id = "page167"> </a>
+<!-- png 212 -->
+by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For <a name = "montmelian_desc" id =
+"montmelian_desc"><b>Montmelian</b></a>, 18&nbsp;m. S., by Quinson.
+Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian,
+H.&nbsp;Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½&nbsp;m. E.,
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian
+a coach runs to <a name = "barjols_2" id =
+"barjols_2"><b>Barjols</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Pont d’Or,
+9½&nbsp;m. S., whence other coaches run to <a href =
+"#brignoles">Brignoles</a> (see p.&nbsp;142). For <b>Valensole</b>,
+7½&nbsp;m. W., whence to Volx railway station, other 7&nbsp;m.
+W.&nbsp;From Volx coach to <b>Digne</b>, 25&nbsp;m. N., by Puymoisson,
+3¾&nbsp;m. N.; Le Begude, 8&nbsp;m.; Estoublon, 11¾&nbsp;m.; Mezèl on
+the Asse, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Cours, 15¾&nbsp;m.; and Châteauredon,
+7½&nbsp;m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep
+valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down
+in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums,
+walnuts, and cherries (see <a href = "#map163">map,
+p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly
+surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers
+has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of
+the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows
+which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of
+the river, is La Rotonde, a&nbsp;temple, square externally, enclosing a
+peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated
+octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are
+the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite
+columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th
+cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 wide,
+outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian
+columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S.W. corner is a
+short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where
+there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town
+and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Moustiers Ste. Marie.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2&nbsp;frs., is to the curious
+village of <a name = "moustiers_ste_marie" id =
+"moustiers_ste_marie"><b>Moustiers Ste. Marie</b></a> by the courrier,
+starting at 2 and returning at 4. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Mouton
+Couronné. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow
+gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous
+sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between
+two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from
+which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs,
+by the stair of the “Via Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost
+immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood.
+Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S.
+side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between
+Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18&nbsp;m.
+E. from Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between
+them.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gréoulx. Baths.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is <a name = "greoulx"
+id = "greoulx"><b>Gréoulx</b></a>, pop. 1400, a&nbsp;dirty village on a
+hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle
+built by the Knight-Templars. Less than ½&nbsp;m. from the village is
+the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to
+5&nbsp;frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents.
+<span class = "pagenum">168</span>
+<a name = "page168" id = "page168"> </a>
+<!-- png 213 -->
+Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day,
+10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and
+furniture. Bath, 2&nbsp;frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is
+1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most
+abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt
+new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the
+chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the
+carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also
+rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with
+other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the
+water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used
+in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are
+partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water
+into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to
+Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (<a href = "#map163">map,
+p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Manosque.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "manosque" id = "manosque"><b>Manosque</b></a>, pop. 6200, on
+the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22&nbsp;m. north from
+Pertuis, 41½&nbsp;m. from Aix, 48½&nbsp;m. from Gardanne, and
+59½&nbsp;m. from Marseilles. 4½&nbsp;m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St.
+Auban, 31&nbsp;m. from Sisteron, 61½&nbsp;m. from Veynes, 66&nbsp;m.
+from Aspres, and 130½&nbsp;m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and
+Savoy).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Hotels:</i> Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the
+surrounding mountains; near it the G. H.&nbsp;de Versailles; and the
+Poste. Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the
+Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive
+trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the
+eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering
+the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and
+badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily
+recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the
+main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are
+circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each
+side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is
+extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower
+than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the façade leads
+to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and whence there is
+a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre Dame, in exactly
+the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the
+left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent.,
+with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a
+crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date
+from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of
+Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers,
+a&nbsp;religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the
+poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and
+lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22&nbsp;m. E.; to the baths of
+Gréoulx, in the same direction; to <b>Apt</b> (see index), 26 m. W., by
+Reillane 15½&nbsp;m., and Céreste 20½&nbsp;m. W. <b>Volx</b> station is
+the intended terminus of the rail from Apt.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">169</span>
+<a name = "page169" id = "page169"> </a>
+<!-- png 214 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vallauris. Antibes.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">124</span>
+<span class = "miles to">31</span>
+<a name = "golf_jouan" id = "golf_jouan"><b>GOLF JOUAN</b></a> or
+<a name = "vallauris_stn" id = "vallauris_stn"><b>VALLAURIS</b></a>. A few
+yards straight up from the station is a short column, which marks the
+spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elba on March 1,
+1815. A&nbsp;very pleasant road, lined with villas, connects this small
+port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">127</span>
+<span class = "miles to">28</span>
+<a name = "antibes" id = "antibes"><b>ANTIBES</b></a>, pop. 6000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A&nbsp;fortified port founded by
+the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark
+of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square
+the inhabitants have erected a monument to their valour. Those wishing a
+bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church.
+The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of Antibes is of superior
+quality (see <a href = "#cap_antibes">p.&nbsp;154</a>). From Antibes
+station omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">132</span>
+<span class = "miles to">23</span>
+<a name = "vence_cagnes" id = "vence_cagnes"><b>VENCE-CAGNES</b></a>. At
+this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about
+1&nbsp;mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains
+the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the same road
+is <b>Vence</b>, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several
+interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for
+perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the
+terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice
+runs a diligence (see <a href = "#page165">p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">136</span>
+<span class = "miles to">19</span>
+<a name = "var" id = "var"><b>VAR</b></a>. This station is on the left
+or Nice side of the river Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over
+the mouth of the river. ¾&nbsp;m. N.W. from the station by the road to
+St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pépinières, extensive, but not well
+kept. About 2&nbsp;m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the
+Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the
+next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two
+contain many beautiful marble monuments.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in
+January.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nice.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 216 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 171</span>
+<a name = "map171" id = "map171" href = "images/map171.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map171thumb.png" width = "499" height = "260"
+alt = "plan of Nice" title = "NICE"></a>
+</p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nice" id = "nice">
+NICE</a></h5>
+
+<p>is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from Hyères, 39&nbsp;m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼&nbsp;m. N.E.
+from Cannes. It is 9½&nbsp;m. W. from Monaco, 15&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30&nbsp;m. S.W. from San Remo
+(see <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">railway map, fly-leaf</a>).
+Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon,
+mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">170</span>
+<a name = "page170" id = "page170"> </a>
+<!-- png 215 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_hotels" id = "nice_hotels">
+<span class = "headnote">Nice: Hotels and Pensions.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the
+order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the
+“Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and
+opposite it, projecting into the sea, a&nbsp;casino. On the other side
+of the cercle is the H.&nbsp;Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir,
+13 to 18 frs.; the H.&nbsp;Méditerranée, H.&nbsp;Westminster, and the
+H.&nbsp;West End, all first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per
+day.</p>
+
+<p>The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they
+have considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of
+the sea so much. The H.&nbsp;de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise,
+8 to 11 frs., No. 77; the H.&nbsp;Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the
+Boulevard du Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des
+Anglais, are the Beau Rivage; the H.&nbsp;des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.;
+and on the Quai des Pouchettes, the *H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Suisse, 8½ to 12
+frs.</p>
+
+<p>Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre
+and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H.&nbsp;de France; while in
+the Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands,
+and the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is
+the Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are
+the hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the
+garden in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge
+from 10 to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly
+by French, the H.&nbsp;Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.</p>
+
+<p>On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and
+pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the
+railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux
+Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs
+with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10
+to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H.&nbsp;and R.&nbsp;Duval, 9 to
+12 frs. At the top of the R. de la Gare, the H.&nbsp;National, 9 to 12
+frs., and the Hotel des Alpes.</p>
+
+<p>In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the
+H.&nbsp;Iles Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch
+churches, and some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens.
+The best of the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul.
+Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul.
+Longchamp, the H.&nbsp;et P. des Palmiers, and the H.&nbsp;Splendide,
+all from 10 to 20 frs. Near the Splendide is the P.&nbsp;Java, 9 to 11
+frs.</p>
+
+<p>Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H.&nbsp;et
+<span class = "pagenum">171</span>
+<a name = "page171" id = "page171"> </a>
+<!-- png 217 -->
+P. de Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P.&nbsp;Helvétique. Near it
+the H.&nbsp;Royal; the H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Mignon and the P. *Millet,
+entered from R. St. Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.</p>
+
+<p>At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H.&nbsp;Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.;
+near it the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with
+gardens.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite the station the H.&nbsp;et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther
+down the H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.</p>
+
+<p>From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to
+the Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the
+Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the
+H.&nbsp;Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B.&nbsp;Dubouchage are the
+first-class houses&mdash;the H.&nbsp;Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion.
+Behind the Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H.&nbsp;et P. d’Orient. The
+large building in the B.&nbsp;Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the
+American Episcopal Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the
+H.&nbsp;Central and the G. H. *Rubion.</p>
+
+<p>The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the
+B.&nbsp;Dubouchage, and about the B.&nbsp;Carabacel, are frequented by
+delicate people, who sun themselves in the gardens and boulevards of
+this quarter. At the Carabacel end of the B.&nbsp;Dubouchage are the
+first-class houses&mdash;the H.&nbsp;Hollande; H. *Windsor; and
+opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence in a garden off the
+B.&nbsp;Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the
+B.&nbsp;Carabacel, the H.&nbsp;Bristol, P. Londres, H.&nbsp;de Paris,
+and houses with furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel
+Episcopal Church, and near it the Hôtel Carabacel.</p>
+
+<p>On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H.&nbsp;Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near
+the Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H.&nbsp;et P. *Barthélemy, on the
+road to the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès
+Hill, on opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H.&nbsp;et
+P.&nbsp;Cimiès, and the Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to
+12 frs. They are about 2&nbsp;m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The
+tram from the Place Massena has its terminus near the
+P.&nbsp;Barthélemy. The H.&nbsp;Cimiès has its own omnibus. The town
+omnibus runs within a short distance of the P.&nbsp;Anglaise.</p>
+
+<p>In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and
+its continuation the R.&nbsp;Massena, are hotels and pensions, with
+moderate prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward&mdash;at No.
+100, in garden, the P.&nbsp;Torelli. On the hill behind the H.&nbsp;de
+Rome, 12 frs. At No. 121 is the H.&nbsp;de l’Elysée, with front to the
+Promenade des Anglais. At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.;
+<span class = "pagenum">172</span>
+<a name = "page172" id = "page172"> </a>
+<!-- png 218 -->
+and opposite, the H.&nbsp;du Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des
+Anglais. At No. 34 the P.&nbsp;Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R.
+Massena the H.&nbsp;St. André, 8&nbsp;frs. In the Place Massena the
+H.&nbsp;et R.&nbsp;Helder, 18 frs. For commercial gentlemen the best is
+the H.&nbsp;des Étrangers, R.&nbsp;Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.</p>
+
+<p>Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the
+private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings.
+In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where
+they can arrange at the prices given:&mdash;H.&nbsp;du Midi, opp.
+station, 8 to 11 frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de
+la Gare the H.&nbsp;des Alpes and the H.&nbsp;National, 9 to 12 frs. At
+17 B. Carabacel H.&nbsp;et P. de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the
+Rue de France the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the
+Promenade des Anglais the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue
+Massena the H.&nbsp;St. André, 8&nbsp;frs., including everything. In the
+R.&nbsp;Gioffredo the H.&nbsp;and R.&nbsp;Montesquieu, 8 to
+9&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nice: Cafés. Banks.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_cafes" id = "nice_cafes"><i>Cafés.</i></a>&mdash;The
+best in the Place Massena. <i>Restaurants.</i>&mdash;The *London House,
+Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare, and at
+No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. <i>Clubs or Cercles.</i>&mdash;The Cercle de la
+Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St.
+Jean.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_banks" id = "nice_banks"><i>Banks.</i></a>&mdash;The
+Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds of banking
+business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15 Avenue de la
+Gare. Other banks&mdash;the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena; Lacroix et
+Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.</p>
+
+<p><i>House Agents.</i>&mdash;John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin
+Public; C.&nbsp;Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du
+Temple.</p>
+
+<p><i>Post Office</i>, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du
+Midi. Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris
+time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the
+Nice time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with
+45,000 volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> It contains a few antiquities, some Roman
+milestones, a&nbsp;collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina
+Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi.
+Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "nice_booksellers" id =
+"nice_booksellers"><i>Booksellers.</i></a>&mdash;Galignani, 15 Quai
+Massena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin
+Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s.
+Gaze’s is at No. 13, and Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Druggists.</i>&mdash;Of these there are excellent English
+establishments in the principal streets.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">173</span>
+<a name = "page173" id = "page173"> </a>
+
+<p><i>Confectioneries and Perfumeries.</i>&mdash;Of the confections the
+<i>specialité</i> of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round
+boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5&nbsp;frs. the box. The most
+expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme
+(2&nbsp;lbs. 3¼ oz.), strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the
+stones, 8&nbsp;frs. All the others cost either 5 or 6&nbsp;frs. the
+kilo. The best shops are&mdash; *Caëtan Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare;
+Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and *Escoffier, in the Place Massena.
+Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on
+the left bank of the Paillon.</p>
+
+<!-- png 219 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nice: Churches. Conveyances.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_churches" id =
+"nice_churches"><i>Churches.</i></a>&mdash;Temple Évangélique or Vaudois
+in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station;
+Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; German Church, Rue Adelaide; American
+Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue
+St. Michel; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre
+Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.</p>
+
+<p>Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coach hire.</i>&mdash;A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750
+frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery
+stables, where carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per
+month.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_cabs" id = "nice_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>&mdash;Drivers
+have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the
+course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1&nbsp;fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2½ frs.;
+seats for 4, 3&nbsp;frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the
+hour, 3½ frs.</p>
+
+<p>To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1&nbsp;fr.; with seats
+for 4, 1½ fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1&nbsp;fr. 15 sous. Each article on top
+of cab 25 c., and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of
+a hotel, to engage the cab by the hour.</p>
+
+<p>All the <i>tram cars</i> start from the Place Massena.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_diligences" id =
+"nice_diligences"><i>Diligences.</i></a>&mdash;From the office, No. 34
+Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily:&mdash;Coach to <a href =
+"#st_martin_lantosque">St. Martin Lantosque</a>, 3117 ft. above the sea,
+and 37 m. N. from Nice. Fare 6&nbsp;frs., time 10 hrs. (see
+p.&nbsp;180). Coach to <a href = "#puget_theniers">Puget-Théniers</a>,
+1476 ft. above the sea, and 42&nbsp;m. N.W. from Nice. Fare 2½ frs.,
+time 9 hrs. (see p.&nbsp;182). To <a href = "#st_sauveur">St.
+Sauveur</a>, 40½&nbsp;m. N. (p.&nbsp;182). Omnibus twice daily during
+the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low Corniche road. From the
+office, Place St. François, start:&mdash;<a href =
+"#nice_to_turin">Coach to Cuneo</a>, 80&nbsp;m. N., by Tenda and the Col
+di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680
+ft. above the sea, and 51&nbsp;m. N. from Nice. Fare 9&nbsp;frs., time
+11 hrs. (see p.&nbsp;182). From Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean
+Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15&nbsp;m. N.
+from Nice. Fare 3&nbsp;frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or, Rue de
+l’Aqueduct,
+<span class = "pagenum">174</span>
+<a name = "page174" id = "page174"> </a>
+<!-- png 220 -->
+coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½&nbsp;m. N. up the valley
+of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of Trinité&mdash;Victor,
+5½&nbsp;m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon; and then
+on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the
+village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "contes" id = "contes">
+Contes.</a></span>
+Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees,
+and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to
+Trinité-Victor and back, 5&nbsp;frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nice: Climate.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_climate" id =
+"nice_climate"><i>Climate.</i></a>&mdash;If I should be asked to draw a
+comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate,
+I&nbsp;should be inclined to call Nice a trifle colder in winter,
+especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M.&nbsp;Teysseire has
+preserved and published records of twenty years’ meteorological
+observations taken at Nice with instruments placed outside his window,
+on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His mean results for the
+twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake of comparison,
+I&nbsp;append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table>
+<caption class = "smallcaps">Mean Temperature.</caption>
+<tr>
+<td></td>
+<td>Nice.</td>
+<td>Cannes.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>November</td>
+<td>53.8</td>
+<td>52.6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>December</td>
+<td>48.5</td>
+<td>46.3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>January</td>
+<td>47.1</td>
+<td>48</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>February</td>
+<td>46.2</td>
+<td>48.8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>March</td>
+<td>51.8</td>
+<td>51</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>April</td>
+<td>58.1</td>
+<td>55.5</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at
+Cannes.&mdash;<i>Health Resorts</i>, by M.&nbsp;Marcet, M.D.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vallons" id = "vallons">
+<span class = "headnote">Vallons.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the
+Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a
+reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period.
+Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with
+precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent
+action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on
+the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the
+conglomerate. The great vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant
+Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near
+which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream,
+opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls
+nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up
+the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is
+the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine,
+which high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles
+as to be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and
+the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the
+entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which
+<span class = "pagenum">175</span>
+<a name = "page175" id = "page175"> </a>
+<!-- png 221 -->
+fire-bricks are made. The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de
+Mantéga (see plan), has great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer
+conglomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material,
+which, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar.</p>
+
+<p>The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:&mdash;1st, the new
+or fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon,
+containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets
+bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion
+are hotels and “pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a&nbsp;perfect labyrinth of
+narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of
+centre, and running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it
+from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of
+harbour.</p>
+
+<p>During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city,
+with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In
+winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it
+is only about 54,000, a&nbsp;diminution in numbers apparent only in the
+largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating
+population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled
+together between the Paillon and the Château hill.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_promenade" id = "nice_promenade">
+<span class = "headnote">Nice: Promenade. Castle.
+Cemetery.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the
+English in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This
+beautiful terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2&nbsp;m. along the beach
+of the Baie des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of
+the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3&nbsp;m. west to the
+mouth of the river Var, near the Racecourse.</p>
+
+<p>Over the Port rises the <a name = "nice_castle" id =
+"nice_castle"><b>Castlehill</b></a>, 315 ft., commanding from the
+platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the
+peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort
+Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings.
+To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the
+distance the <a href = "#roche_blanche">Roche-Blanche</a> (p.&nbsp;164),
+the peninsula of Antibes, and the Estérels. This fortress, founded by
+the early Phœnician colonists, and destroyed and rebuilt at various
+periods afterwards, was finally razed to the ground in 1706, by order of
+Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now it has become the great park of
+Nice. A&nbsp;round tower that still remains, over the Hôtel des Princes,
+called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added to the Castle by Emmanuel
+Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill (see plan) is the <a name
+= "nice_cemetery" id = "nice_cemetery">cemetery</a> in five stages. At
+the entrance is the monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre,
+23d March 1881.” Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of
+<span class = "pagenum">176</span>
+<a name = "page176" id = "page176"> </a>
+<!-- png 222 -->
+Rosa Garibaldi, d.&nbsp;19th March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her
+son, General Garibaldi. In the highest terrace is the grave containing
+Gambetta and his mother. In a terrace by itself in the eastern end is
+the Protestant cemetery.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "caterina_segurana" id =
+"caterina_segurana">
+<span class = "headnote">Caterina Segurana.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King
+Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane
+to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent.
+On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked
+the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon
+and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the
+standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was
+born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port
+before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue
+Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in
+1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No.
+15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in
+fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also
+the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died
+(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of
+the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches
+in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and
+variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de
+la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in
+Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too
+small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost
+of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne,
+in an orange grove, is the
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "nice_memorial_chapel" id =
+"nice_memorial_chapel">
+Nice: Memorial Chapel.</a></span>
+Russian Memorial Chapel, a&nbsp;series of ascending domes, built over
+the spot on which stood the villa in which the Prince Imperial of Russia
+died, April 24, 1865. The interior is covered with designs in gold leaf,
+varied here and there by a light-blue ground. Round the base runs a
+white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes of saints in niches.</p>
+
+<p>The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the
+handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight
+line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are
+the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best
+shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind
+the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision
+kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners,
+<span class = "pagenum">177</span>
+<a name = "page177" id = "page177"> </a>
+<!-- png 223 -->
+and dressmakers. At the east end of the <a name = "nice_croix_marbre" id
+= "nice_croix_marbre"><b>Rue de France</b></a> is the Croix de Marbre,
+a&nbsp;marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected in
+1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles&nbsp;V., Francis&nbsp;I., and
+Paul&nbsp;III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two
+potentates through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite
+commemorates the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near
+this is Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique,
+the second Protestant church built in Nice.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_massena" id = "nice_massena">
+<span class = "headnote">André Massena.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the
+large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty
+public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in
+an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of
+France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which
+stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon
+to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “to
+drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea.” But the wary
+strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved
+resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a
+masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the
+chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but
+it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the
+river, called the “Jardin Public,” planted with magnolias, acacias,
+Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays
+here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on
+the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the
+summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cimiès.</span></p>
+
+<p>All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare
+lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice,
+and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2&nbsp;m.
+distant, or 3&nbsp;from the Place Massena, is <a name = "cimies" id =
+"cimies"><b>Cimiès</b></a> (430 ft. above the sea), another favoured
+spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids requiring a sedative
+climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman city Cemenelium, of
+which all that remains are the ruins of an amphitheatre 210 ft. long by
+175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince de Galles are artistic ruins
+composed of ancient material gathered in this neighbourhood. They stand
+in the spacious grounds of the superb villa Val Rose, which in shape
+resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behind G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Windsor. The
+first road right from the theatre leads to a Franciscan convent built in
+1543 on the site of a temple of Diana.
+<span class = "pagenum">178</span>
+<a name = "page178" id = "page178"> </a>
+<!-- png 224 -->
+The altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were
+painted by Ludovico Brea, a&nbsp;contemporary of Raphael, and the only
+artist of eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some
+beautiful tombstones. In the centre of the “Place,” on a spiral marble
+column, is a crucifix with a winged J.&nbsp;C. Above is a pelican
+feeding its young, a&nbsp;favourite Christian symbol of charity during
+the Middle Ages.</p>
+
+<p>A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to <a href =
+"#st_pons">St. Pons</a> (p.&nbsp;179).</p>
+
+<p>At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first
+hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and
+separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in
+the market for food.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_drives" id = "nice_drives">
+<span class = "headnote">Nice: Drives.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20&nbsp;m. east,
+either by the high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains,
+passing above Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises
+much above the coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An
+omnibus runs daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by
+this road (see <a href = "#monaco">p.&nbsp;187</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5&nbsp;frs.; ½
+hour’s rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7&nbsp;frs. Above the
+Pont Neuf, near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time)
+start for Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous.
+On feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St.
+Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H.&nbsp;Victoria, where
+bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close
+to the station, is the *H.&nbsp;et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs.
+Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the
+omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A&nbsp;carriage with
+2 horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt
+Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a
+coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Val-Obscur.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "val_obscur" id = "val_obscur"><b>Nice to the
+Val-Obscur</b></a>, 4 m. N.&mdash;Take tram from the Place Massena to
+St. Maurice, 2&nbsp;m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa
+Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by
+the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the
+left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the
+water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but
+as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the
+conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards
+long, between cliffs of an earthy
+<span class = "pagenum">179</span>
+<a name = "page179" id = "page179"> </a>
+<!-- png 225 -->
+conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high, and 7 ft. apart at their
+narrowest point. By continuing this path for a little distance past a
+house on the side of the hill, then crossing over by a path to the
+right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a road ascends to
+Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. above the sea, or
+only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "vallon_fleurs" id = "vallon_fleurs"><b>Vallon des
+Fleurs</b></a> ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive trees and its
+wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the valley is about 10
+minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the tram. A&nbsp;path
+leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads round by the
+head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it joins nearly
+opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the valley of the
+Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For <a href =
+"#cimies">Cimiès</a>, see p.&nbsp;177.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_villa_clery" id =
+"nice_villa_clery">
+<span class = "headnote">Nice: Villa Clery. St. Pons. Grotte St.
+Andre.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about
+3¾&nbsp;m. N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon
+St. André. A&nbsp;cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back,
+5&nbsp;frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 7&nbsp;frs.; ½ hour’s stay
+allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But if the return to Nice be made by Falicon,
+25 frs. When about 1½&nbsp;m. up the Paillon there is a large gate which
+gives access to the orchard of the Villa Clery, containing some orange
+trees above 100 years old, yet in the whole plantation there is not one
+well-developed specimen. The oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6&nbsp;frs.
+the 100, and packed and despatched to order. Almost opposite, on the
+east side of the Paillon, are the more beautiful gardens and perfume
+distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the hill (430 ft.), above the Clery
+orchard, is seen the monastery of Cimiès, built in 1543 after the
+original house, which stood near the Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed
+by the Turks. The next large edifice passed on the west bank is the
+monastery of <a name = "st_pons" id = "st_pons"><b>St. Pons</b></a>,
+built in 775 by St. Syagrius, a&nbsp;contemporary of Charlemagne, on the
+spot where the Roman senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor
+is said to have spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In
+890 it was destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus,
+Bishop of Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was
+annexed to the house of Savoy. A&nbsp;short distance beyond, at the part
+where the stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3&nbsp;m. from the
+Place Massena, is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay
+4&nbsp;frs. per day, second 3&nbsp;frs. A&nbsp;little higher up the
+stream are the village, pop. 660, and (on a hill) the château of St.
+André. The château is a plain house with a small chapel at the west end,
+<span class = "pagenum">180</span>
+<a name = "page180" id = "page180"> </a>
+<!-- png 226 -->
+fronted by a terrace built by the brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685.
+Part is occupied by a school and part is let. The chapel is now the
+parish church. At the east end is a small petrifying spring. From the
+château an avenue of ill-conditioned cypresses (the best have been cut
+down) leads to the <a name = "grotte_st_andre" id =
+"grotte_st_andre"><b>Grotte St. André</b></a>. Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a
+natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high, through the limestone
+rock, under which flows the stream St. André, dammed up at the outer end
+to enable the man to take visitors through it in a boat. Near it are a
+restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are sold.</p>
+
+<p>From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so
+narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road
+and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit
+the cave should walk up this distance, 1&nbsp;mile, before returning.
+Those in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon,
+a&nbsp;village perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St.
+André.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "nice_observatory" id = "nice_observatory"><i>To the
+Observatory</i></a>, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the
+expense of M.&nbsp;Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of
+the Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and
+ascend by the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a
+house, ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The
+establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the
+various buildings for astronomical purposes. A&nbsp;few yards below, on
+the west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and
+46 broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end
+dwelling-houses.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "nice_to_cuneo" id = "nice_to_cuneo">
+Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+(<a href = "#map163">Map, page 165</a>, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.</i>&mdash;Diligence from
+Nice to St. Martin, 37&nbsp;m. N.&nbsp;From St. Martin to Entraque, on
+the north side of the Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal
+to 25&nbsp;m. From Entraque to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo,
+24&nbsp;m. N. by coach.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Levens. Lantosque.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon,
+and after passing the villages of <a href = "#grotte_st_andre">St.
+André</a> (p.&nbsp;179) and Tourette, near the ruins of Châteauneuf,
+arrives at <a name = "levens" id = "levens"><b>Levens</b></a>, 1826 ft.
+above the sea, pop. 1560, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;des Étrangers, where the
+coach halts a short time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and
+then descends into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie,
+where it passes through the village of Duranus, 18&nbsp;m. from Nice,
+pop. 1500. Then, after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed
+the Vesubie, and passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25&nbsp;m.
+from Nice, it reaches the village of <a name = "lantosque" id =
+"lantosque"><b>Lantosque</b></a>, 28½&nbsp;m. from Nice, 1640
+<span class = "pagenum">181</span>
+<a name = "page181" id = "page181"> </a>
+<!-- png 227 -->
+ft. above the sea, pop. 1910, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;des Alpes Maritimes.
+On a plateau 765 ft. above Lantosque, and 1¼&nbsp;m. distant, is La
+Bollène, with a large hotel, charmingly situated amidst hills covered
+with chestnut trees. The coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on
+the Vesubie, 3½&nbsp;m. from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above
+the sea. It is the station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with
+a comfortable hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+St. Martin Lantosque.<br>
+Col di Finestra.</span>
+From Roquebillère the coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the
+villages of Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to <a name =
+"st_martin_lantosque" id = "st_martin_lantosque"><b>St. Martin
+Lantosque</b></a>, 37&nbsp;m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above
+the sea. An ancient village at the junction of the Vesubie with the
+Salèses. In the “Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn,
+the H.&nbsp;des Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension,
+6&nbsp;frs. Up by the side of the promenade are some good pensions. On
+the opposite hill, ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is
+the village of Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the
+surrounding valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with
+chestnut and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St.
+Martin commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the
+Vesubie and the <a name = "col_finestra" id = "col_finestra"><b>Col di
+Finestra</b></a>, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a fancied
+resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide to
+Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼&nbsp;m. up the Vesubie is the stone
+which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼&nbsp;m.
+farther the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft.
+above the sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the
+remarkable <i>Saxifraga florulenta</i>, on the ridges of rock above the
+sanctuary. Half an hour beyond, a&nbsp;lake is passed among jagged
+peaks, and, in about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269
+ft., is attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and
+France. At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Valdieri.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the <a name = "valdieri" id =
+"valdieri"><b>Baths of Valdieri</b></a>, about 20&nbsp;m. distant, time
+7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all the way to the Col de
+Moulières, 6890 ft. A&nbsp;few miles farther northward it crosses also
+the Col di Fremamorta, a&nbsp;depression between two mountains, 8745 ft.
+and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It then descends by a long
+dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it turns eastwards to the river
+Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From the baths a carriage-road
+extends 24&nbsp;m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the village of Valdieri on
+the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10&nbsp;m. N. from the baths, and
+7½&nbsp;m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the picturesque
+valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through the Borgo San
+Dalmazzo, 5&nbsp;m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at the
+junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta
+road at a small hamlet about 4&nbsp;m. N. from St. Martin, whence it
+ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows the
+course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make
+excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western
+<span class = "pagenum">182</span>
+<a name = "page182" id = "page182"> </a>
+<!-- png 228 -->
+Alps. In every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to
+be found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable,
+the writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a
+mountaineer need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being
+accessible at seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most
+other Alpine districts, this offers special attractions to the
+naturalist. Within a narrow range may be found a considerable number of
+very rare plants, several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The
+geology is also interesting, and would probably repay further
+examination. A&nbsp;crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by
+highly-inclined and much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably
+include the entire series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous
+rocks, in some parts overlaid by nummulitic deposits.” &mdash;<i>The
+Western Alps</i>, by John Ball.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Puget-Theniers. Saint Sauveur.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "puget_theniers" id = "puget_theniers"><i>Nice to
+Puget-Theniers</i></a>, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does not
+become picturesque till Chaudan, 22&nbsp;m. N. from Nice, at the
+junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and
+where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼&nbsp;m. N. from Chaudan) meets the
+Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop. 1450,
+1476 ft. above the sea, <i>Inn:</i> *Croix de Malte) is a dirty village
+on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of bare
+precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes, pop.
+1300, on the Var, 22&nbsp;m. N., <i>Inn:</i> Ginié. The roads beyond are
+traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾&nbsp;m. W. from
+Puget.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On
+the Tinée, 40½&nbsp;m. N. from Nice, is <a name = "st_sauveur" id =
+"st_sauveur"><b>Saint Sauveur</b></a>, pop. 800, <i>Inn:</i> Vial, with
+Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating from 1309. Hot
+and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock called the Guez.
+From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by the Tinée to <a name
+= "st_etienne" id = "st_etienne_2">St. Etienne</a>, where there is an
+inn. From St. Etienne, pop. 150, a&nbsp;good mule-path leads by the Col
+Valonet to Vinadio (see <a href = "#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "nice_to_turin" id = "nice_to_turin">
+Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51&nbsp;m., 11 hours,
+9&nbsp;frs.; Tenda to Cuneo, 29&nbsp;m., 7 hours, 7&nbsp;frs.; Cuneo to
+Turin, by rail, 3 hours (see maps, <a href = "#map163">pp. 165</a> and
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">107</a>). This is rather a
+fatiguing journey. The most beautiful views are seen during the descent
+from Tenda to the Mediterranean. <b>Nice.</b>&mdash;Start from the Place
+St. François. The road ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the
+villages of <a name = "trinite_victor" id =
+"trinite_victor"><b>Trinité-Victor</b></a>, pop. 1300, and <b>Drap</b>,
+pop. 800, with a sulphurous spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it
+leaves the Paillon and crosses over to <b>Escarène</b> on the Braus,
+12½&nbsp;m. N.E. from Nice, pop. 1500. About 1½&nbsp;m. farther is
+<b>Touet</b>, pop. 400, whence commences the tedious ascent of the Col
+di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine on the S. and Mt. Ventabren
+on the N.&nbsp;The road now descends to <a name = "sospel" id =
+"sospel"><b>Sospel</b></a>, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an
+affluent of the Roja, 25½&nbsp;m. N.E. from Nice. H.&nbsp;Carenio; coach
+daily to and from Menton, 14&nbsp;m. S.&nbsp;The
+<span class = "pagenum">183</span>
+<a name = "page183" id = "page183"> </a>
+<!-- png 229 -->
+road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence passengers in this
+direction have their last view of the Mediterranean.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Giandola.<br>
+Saorgio.</span>
+The descent is now made through bleak and barren mountains to <a name =
+"giandola" id = "giandola"><b>Giandola</b></a>, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice,
+1247 ft., at the base of lofty frowning rocks. <i>Inns:</i> Étrangers,
+Poste. Coach daily between this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja,
+are Breglio, pop. 2580, and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The
+road now ascends a narrow defile of the <a name = "roja" id =
+"roja"><b>Roja</b></a>, which, suddenly widening, discloses <a name =
+"saorgio" id = "saorgio"><b>Saorgio</b></a>, pop. 1600, 400 ft. above
+the torrent, composed of parallel rows of dingy houses among almond and
+olive trees. On the top of the hill is the castle of Malemort, destroyed
+by the French in 1792. From this the valley contracts so much that the
+road has repeatedly to cross and re-cross the river on its way to
+Fontana on the Italian frontier, 43&nbsp;m. from Nice, pop. 1230.
+Luggage and passports are examined here. Almost the only habitat of the
+curious plant <i>Ballota spinosa</i> is between Fontana and Breglio. The
+road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5&nbsp;m. N., passes through one of the
+most formidable defiles in the Alps, the Gorge de Berghe, between steep
+massive walls of igneous rock. “The bold forms of the cliffs, and the
+luxuriant vegetation which crowns every height and fills every hollow,
+make the scenery of this road worthy to compare with almost any other
+more famous Alpine pass.” &mdash;<i>Ball</i>. At St. Dalmazzo is a
+hydropathic establishment, pension 8&nbsp;frs. Coach daily between
+Ventimiglia and Tenda.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Limone. Cuneo.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12&nbsp;m. S. from
+Limone, is the village of <a name = "tenda" id =
+"tenda"><b>Tenda</b></a>, pop. 1800; <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;National; 2680
+ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja
+at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the castle
+of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her jealous and
+tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare plants are to be
+found on the rocks over the village. The village church (1476-1518) is a
+good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The tunnel, opened in
+1882&mdash;4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and 4331 ft. at the
+Limone end&mdash;is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The Tenda end of the
+tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the Cuneo end at the hamlet
+La Panice. From La Panice the road descends rapidly by the Vermanagna to
+<a name = "limone" id = "limone"><b>Limone</b></a>, 3668 ft., 63&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from Nice and 17&nbsp;m. S. from Cuneo; <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la
+Poste; pleasantly situated in the valley of the Vermanagna, from which
+an occasional glimpse may be had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road,
+after passing Robillante, Roccavione, and <b>Borgo-San-Dalmazzo</b>,
+pop. 4600, arrives at <a name = "cuneo" id = "cuneo"><b>Cuneo</b></a>,
+80&nbsp;m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200;
+<i>Inns:</i> Barra di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the
+confluence of the Stura with the Gesso. 55&nbsp;m. N. by rail is
+Turin.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mondovi. Acqui.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The easiest way to go <a name = "savona_to_turin" id =
+"savona_to_turin">to <b>Turin</b> from <b>Nice</b></a> is to take the
+rail to Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91&nbsp;m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and
+Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4&nbsp;m. W. from Savona, is the
+Santuario di Savona, a&nbsp;pilgrimage church with large hospice for
+poor devotees (<a href = "#page210">p.&nbsp;210</a>). From Carru
+station, 50&nbsp;m. N., a&nbsp;branch line extends 8&nbsp;m.&nbsp;S.
+<span class = "pagenum">184</span>
+<a name = "page184" id = "page184"> </a>
+<!-- png 230 -->
+to <a name = "mondovi" id = "mondovi"><b>Mondovi</b></a>, pop. 17,000,
+on the Ellero. <i>Inns:</i> Croce di Malta; Tré Limoni d’Oro. From
+Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. S., in the valley of
+the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance, 8&nbsp;frs.; cave, 2½ frs.
+each, shown from June to October. 12&nbsp;m. S.W. from Mondovi, and
+about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the <b>Certosa di Val
+Pésio</b>, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a hydropathic
+establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. Pension, 8 to 10
+frs. It is well managed, and well situated for botanists, fishers, and
+sketchers.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13&nbsp;m. W. from Savona, is the
+junction with line to Alessandria, 52&nbsp;m. N., by Acqui, 31&nbsp;m.
+N., traversing a picturesque country, between S.&nbsp;Giuseppe and
+Acqui, where it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "acqui" id = "acqui"><b>Acqui</b></a>, pop. 8000, on the
+Bormida, and 21&nbsp;m. S. by rail from Alessandria. <i>Hotels:</i>
+Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly round the Castello. On
+the other side of the river is the bathing establishment, a&nbsp;large
+building with abundant accommodation. The pension price per day is from
+9 to 12 frs., including the use of the water, which, besides being
+drank, is employed both in water and in mud baths. The waters are
+sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and were known to the Romans under
+the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of their times nothing exists but the
+ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths of Acqui are remedies of
+considerable power. The patient remains immersed for about half an hour
+in the humus or mineralised mud of a temperature as hot as he can bear.
+Immediately after he receives a warm mineral water bath. “The
+therapeutic influence of this application is most evident in chronic
+articular enlargements, rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours,
+intractable cases of secondary syphilis, and rheumatism.” &mdash;Dr.
+Madden’s <i>Health Resorts</i>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Villefranche.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">142½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">12½</span>
+<a name = "villefranche" id = "villefranche"><b>VILLEFRANCHE</b></a>,
+pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux at Nice, also by
+rail. Station at the head of the bay. <i>Hotel:</i> Marine. Pleasant
+boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. John and
+the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of Cimiès and
+Carabacel. 2&nbsp;m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow bay,
+2&nbsp;m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of
+<b>Villefranche</b>, founded in the 13th cent. by Charles&nbsp;II., King
+of Naples.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as
+well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the
+little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1&nbsp;fr. each person. From
+Villefranche commences the splendid <b>Road to Monaco</b>, 8&nbsp;m.
+long and 18 ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This
+most enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the
+precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1&nbsp;m. from Villefranche
+by rail, or 1¾ by road, is</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 231 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 185</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">THE CORNICHE ROAD<br>
+NICE to MENTON</span><br>
+<a name = "map185" id = "map185" href = "images/map185.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map185thumb.png" width = "494" height = "224"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Beaulieu.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">143½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">11½</span>
+<a name = "beaulieu" id = "beaulieu"><b>BEAULIEU</b></a>, famed for its
+large olive trees. A&nbsp;little above
+<span class = "pagenum">185</span>
+<a name = "page185" id = "page185"> </a>
+<!-- png 232 -->
+the station is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H.&nbsp;des
+Anglais among “countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by
+autumn’s blast or wintry skies.” Down towards the village is another old
+olive tree, not far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco
+road is the Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be
+had. In the creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a
+beautiful place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of
+the Riviera, at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of
+reddish sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with
+trees, which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were
+transparent; while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base
+and struggle as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind
+the olives, and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon
+trees, bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall
+shrubs hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny
+creeks and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long
+ledges of marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water,
+carpeted in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the
+Posidonia Caulini, a&nbsp;Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of
+the Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up
+at various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree
+evaporation.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Port of St. Jean.</span></p>
+
+<p>A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads
+from Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the
+peninsula to the <a name = "port_st_jean" id = "port_st_jean"><b>Port of
+St. Jean</b></a>. The real carriage-road commences at the railway
+bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to
+St. Jean, a&nbsp;little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The
+continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse,
+passing the signal-tower to the right.</p>
+
+<p>The port of St. Jean, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Victoria, is used
+principally by the tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes
+a very pleasant residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated
+among creeks and bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most
+fertile part of the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the
+peninsula of St. Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the
+fortifications razed by the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient
+crumbling masonry around belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens,
+whence they were driven in the 10th cent. “A&nbsp;fir-clad mound amid
+the savage wild bears on its brow a village, walled and isled in lone
+seclusion round its ancient tower. It was a post of Saracens, whose
+<span class = "pagenum">186</span>
+<a name = "page186" id = "page186"> </a>
+<!-- png 233 -->
+fate made them the masters for long years of lands remote and scattered
+o’er a hundred strands.” &mdash;<i>Guido and Lita</i>, by the Marquis of
+Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a cemetery, a&nbsp;church, 11th
+cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and a battery.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_jean_lighthouse" id =
+"st_jean_lighthouse">
+<span class = "headnote">Lighthouse.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse
+(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story
+added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is
+ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at
+a distance of 20&nbsp;m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the
+first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles
+Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb
+is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a
+grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large
+euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Petite Afrique. Eze.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "eze" id = "eze">
+EZE.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and
+Eze, the next station, 2&nbsp;m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail.
+The steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so
+exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has
+been called the <a name = "petite_afrique" id =
+"petite_afrique"><b>Petite Afrique</b></a>. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt
+termination of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the
+sea, to which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to
+pass through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the
+equally picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a
+phalanx of lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft.
+high) of one of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is
+the nearly deserted village of <b>Eze</b>, pop. 770, with the ruins of
+its castle founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church,
+recently restored, built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence
+the name Eza or Eze is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the
+castle, under the remains of a vaulted roof, a&nbsp;charming marine
+landscape displays itself, while inland is seen the Pass or highest part
+(1750 ft.) of the Corniche road, which here crosses the ridge terminated
+by Mt. Roux. At the Pass are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze
+commences near the station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed
+to the sun, and throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through
+plantations of firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent
+requires, doing it leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the
+Corniche road, and another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to
+Monaco. A&nbsp;little beyond Eze is the station for La Turbie.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">187</span>
+<a name = "page187" id = "page187"> </a>
+<!-- png 234 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Monaco.</span></p>
+
+<p>100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">149</span>
+<span class = "miles to">6</span>
+<a name = "monaco" id = "monaco"><b>MONACO</b></a> station, situated in
+La Condamine. At the station (6) an omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco
+on the top of the S.W. promontory, 195 ft. above the sea. For Monte
+Carlo, on the top of the N.E. promontory, alight at the next station,
+1¼&nbsp;m. N.E.</p>
+
+<p><b>Monaco proper</b>, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid
+view from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and
+Muratore. Till the arrival of F.&nbsp;Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor
+place, where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from
+the produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches
+of scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the
+gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality,
+wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished
+anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its
+stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with
+plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid
+hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been
+built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few
+years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat.
+The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company
+with the sanction of Prince Charles&nbsp;III. The first house was in the
+Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to
+build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold
+their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc.</p>
+
+<p>The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory
+since 968, when the Emperor Otto&nbsp;I. gave it to Grimaldi&nbsp;I.,
+Lord of Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens
+from the Grand-Fraxinet of <a href = "#st_tropez">St. Tropez</a>
+(p.&nbsp;145). The greatest length of the principality, from the
+cemetery wall at the western extremity to the brook St. Roman at the
+eastern, is (including curves) 3½&nbsp;m., and the greatest breadth,
+from Point St. Martin northwards, 1&nbsp;m. Population 10,000,
+distributed among four different centres&mdash;the city, or Monaco
+proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They
+are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupies
+its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast
+of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most
+easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "monaco_palace" id =
+"monaco_palace">
+Monaco: The Palace.</a></span>
+At the landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which
+the rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on
+<span class = "pagenum">188</span>
+<a name = "page188" id = "page188"> </a>
+<!-- png 235 -->
+certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date
+from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more
+modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle,
+the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the
+chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within
+the entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side with
+friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865,
+representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a
+horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an
+arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni,
+representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and
+right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left
+the first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin;
+hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the
+walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone.
+Bust and full-length portrait of Charles&nbsp;III., Prince of Monaco.
+Ceiling painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings
+and green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed
+pictures representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red
+furniture; style Louis XIII.</p>
+
+<p>Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York,
+brother of George&nbsp;III.; red furniture and hangings; family
+portraits, some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The
+bedroom in which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered
+scarlet satin; ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in
+mosaic. Elegant bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low
+screen. 3. Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom.
+Furniture and walls covered with white satin richly embroidered.</p>
+
+<p>The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very
+pretty garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and
+flowers. Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden.</p>
+
+<p>At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money
+bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long,
+and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view.
+Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs,
+and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la
+Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on
+the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They
+spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or
+<span class = "pagenum">189</span>
+<a name = "page189" id = "page189"> </a>
+<!-- png 236 -->
+over the prickly pear plants, here very abundant. At this end is also
+the Jardin St. Martin, a&nbsp;very pretty promenade, with charming
+views. 500 yards west from the foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid
+road to Villefranche, is the cemetery, whose wall forms the western
+limit of the principality. Among the many tombs there is a beautiful
+marble monument to Pierre and Modestine Neri, brother and sister.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Condamine. St. Devota.</span></p>
+
+<p>On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte
+Carlo is <a name = "la_condamine" id = "la_condamine"><b>La
+Condamine</b></a>, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable,
+a&nbsp;considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque
+gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church,
+on the spot where the body of <a name = "st_devota" id =
+"st_devota"><b>Santa Devota</b></a>, a&nbsp;Roman martyr, the patroness
+of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of Monaco, caused
+the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for having stolen
+the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the harbour and the
+principal railway station, as well as the less expensive hotels, such as
+the G. H.&nbsp;des Bains between the sea and the gas-works, and the
+Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine; Étrangers;
+Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in all, board and
+lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H.&nbsp;Nice and Des
+Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels:
+Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame
+Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the
+Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still
+higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of
+France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane
+leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels
+marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous
+company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms.
+English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter
+temperature, 49°.3. <i>Cabs.</i>&mdash;The course, within the
+principality, 1½ fr.; the hour, 3&nbsp;frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs.
+The omnibus that runs between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road
+starts from the Casino (see <a href = "#nice_drives">page 178</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "monaco_monte_carlo" id =
+"monaco_monte_carlo">
+<span class = "headnote">Monte Carlo. Gambling-Rooms.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt
+termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the
+Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond
+the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of
+Focinana Point, is the Casino, a&nbsp;large and showy building, erected
+in 1862 by F.&nbsp;Blanc (d.&nbsp;1877), a&nbsp;native of Avignon, and
+formerly the
+<span class = "pagenum">190</span>
+<a name = "page190" id = "page190"> </a>
+<!-- png 237 -->
+proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into
+the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s
+(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the
+concert-room&mdash;a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with
+gilt ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the
+Muses and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned
+arm-chairs covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied
+by the orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued.
+Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and
+his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino.
+The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about
+three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance
+are the <a name = "monaco_gambling_rooms" id =
+"monaco_gambling_rooms">gambling-rooms</a> and the office where visitors
+give their names and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms
+are the tables for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which
+the smallest sum admitted is 5&nbsp;frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or
+£240. The fourth room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and
+Boulanger, representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers,
+fishers, archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to
+trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and
+the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the
+tables.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Les Moulins.</span></p>
+
+<p>Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino,
+and under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting
+gallery. Entrance, 5&nbsp;frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and
+footpaths ramify in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road,
+and along the coast either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent
+coast-road to <a href = "#villefranche">Villefranche</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is studded, even
+beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas, partially hidden
+among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern side of Monte Carlo
+is <a name = "les_moulins" id = "les_moulins"><b>Les Moulins</b></a>,
+now quite a town, with shops, hotels, restaurants, and furnished
+lodgings. Up on the main road is the Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs.,
+dear. Down below on the coast-road, fronting the sea, is a small house,
+the Hôtel du Parc.</p>
+
+<p>At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to
+that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in
+the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one
+can gamble on credit.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lemons" id = "lemons">
+Lemons.</a></span>
+About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins by the main road is the
+valley of
+<span class = "pagenum">191</span>
+<a name = "page191" id = "page191"> </a>
+<!-- png 238 -->
+St. Roman, with some very large olive and locust trees. In the
+principality are also large groves of lemon trees. They flower and bear
+fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons, which ripen in spring, are
+called graneti, and those which ripen in summer verdami. They are the
+juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the most suitable for
+exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is that made from old
+tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and olive trees is
+composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse.</p>
+
+<p><i>Excursions.</i>&mdash;1640 feet above Monaco is <b>La Turbie</b>,
+ascended by a road containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are
+14 feet long by 9&nbsp;feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the
+most are in bad condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one
+hour. It commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from
+the railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three
+restaurants&mdash;the France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most
+frequented. Bedrooms, 2&nbsp;frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful
+after a hot climb. When up at La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus
+to the little knoll close by and take a seat under the rock at the top,
+whence “From ancient battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks
+and curving bays.” But the one great view, which excels all the others,
+is from the</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tête de Chien.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "tete_de_chien" id = "tete_de_chien">
+Tête de Chien.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of
+<b>La Turbie</b>. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the
+top, permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow
+of the mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a
+splendid uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the
+other places. From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain,
+town, village, cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the
+western side the view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and
+the Maure mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les
+Moulins, Mt. de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin,
+Menton, Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio,
+which conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western
+side embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of
+St. Jean, a&nbsp;piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice,
+Antibes, the lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel
+mountains, and the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view.
+A&nbsp;good opera-glass should be taken. A&nbsp;stony road leads down
+the west side of the Tête, through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco
+road, which it joins near the battery (see <a href = "#map185">map,
+p.&nbsp;185</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">192</span>
+<a name = "page192" id = "page192"> </a>
+<!-- png 239 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Turbie.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "la_turbie" id = "la_turbie"><b>La Turbie</b></a>, the
+ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is a poor village,
+composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways close to the
+massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact for 1700
+years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a prince of
+Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with excellent
+water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of Turbie, at
+the Colonna del Ré, a&nbsp;road descends northwards to the sanctuary of
+Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13&nbsp;m. from Nice,
+but scarcely 2&nbsp;from La Turbie.</p>
+
+<p>The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the
+long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the
+Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that
+from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony
+paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie
+reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the
+Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into
+a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the
+Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one
+half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les
+Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar
+of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the
+remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to
+the Corniche road (see <a href = "#map185">map, page 185</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">150¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">4¾</span>
+<a name = "monte_carlo_stn" id = "monte_carlo_stn"><b>MONTE
+CARLO</b></a> station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on
+Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Roquebrune.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">152½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">2½</span>
+<a name = "roquebrune" id = "roquebrune"><b>ROQUEBRUNE</b></a> station,
+where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the low road from
+Menton.</p>
+
+<p><b>Roquebrune</b>, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the
+sea, among great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road
+a series of paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of
+lemon trees. The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better
+and more comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in
+the neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace
+is a small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the
+great castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded
+it to Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the
+almost defaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the
+armorial bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This
+bishop is supposed to have been Augustine
+<span class = "pagenum">193</span>
+<a name = "page193" id = "page193"> </a>
+<!-- png 240 -->
+Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of France, who repaired this castle
+in 1528. A&nbsp;broken staircase leads up to the top. “No warrior’s
+tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’s challenge on the silence
+falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their toil, and pluck in orange
+groves the scented spoil from trees that have for purple mountains made
+a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid.” &mdash;<i>Guido and
+Lita</i>, by the Marquis of Lorne.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Menton. Hotels.</span></p>
+
+<p>699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½&nbsp;m. N.E.
+from Cannes, and 15½&nbsp;m. N.E. from Nice, is</p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "menton" id = "menton">
+MENTON,</a></h5>
+
+<p>population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. <a name =
+"menton_hotels" id = "menton_hotels"><i>Hotels and
+Pensions.</i></a>&mdash;Commencing with those at the west end of the
+Promenade du Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town
+to the Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and
+esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel&nbsp;II. The
+asterisk signifies recommended. W&nbsp;signifies bottle of wine, and the
+price given that of the cheapest quality. P&nbsp;signifies pension or
+boarding-house. At the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion;
+the H.&nbsp;St. George, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo;
+²*P. Condamine; *H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Londres. These 4 houses charge from
+9 to 12 frs., W&nbsp;from 1½ to 2&nbsp;frs. Near the Carrei and the
+Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H.&nbsp;Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½
+fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the ²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½
+fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very sheltered promenade up the
+eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where the band plays), built
+over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H.&nbsp;de Paris, 10-14 frs., W
+1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d’Angleterre, 9-12 frs. Opposite, the
+H.&nbsp;Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in the
+busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H.&nbsp;Méditerranée, 9-12 frs.,
+W 1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and
+Tonin-Amaranté; and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie.
+Opposite, the ²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H.&nbsp;de Menton,
+all large good houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H.&nbsp;Menton is
+patronised by Messrs. Cook. Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to
+the sea, is the Midi, same price. We now enter the eastern or most
+sheltered quarter, called the Garavan. The hotels are large and
+first-class, and charge from 10 to 20 frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs.
+The most westerly is the H.&nbsp;Italie, and, about 100 feet up the bank
+behind, the principal house of the hotel. A&nbsp;little farther east, on
+the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue. Near the Belle-Vue, and on
+<span class = "pagenum">194</span>
+<a name = "page194" id = "page194"> </a>
+<!-- png 241 -->
+the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a benevolent home for ladies not
+younger than 18 nor older than 40, who are received for 20s.
+a&nbsp;week, which includes everything “except laundress and fire in
+bedroom.” For conditions of admission apply to Ransom, Bouverie, and
+Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30 Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or
+Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh. Below, on the terrace along
+the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining is the Paix,
+a&nbsp;well-furnished house. Then follow the *H.&nbsp;des Anglais, the
+H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site,
+Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des
+Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H.&nbsp;des Anglais.</p>
+
+<p>Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the
+shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just
+behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the
+first-class houses of the *H.&nbsp;des Iles Britanniques (expensive),
+*H.&nbsp;National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are
+the Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.;
+the last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the
+P. des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station,
+on the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H.&nbsp;de l’Europe,
+9-14 frs., W 2&nbsp;frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the
+H.&nbsp;and P. des Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include
+service, coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never
+wine, excepting the G. H.&nbsp;de Menton, whose price includes wine but
+not coffee.</p>
+
+<p>Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders
+the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of
+the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys
+watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30
+million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the
+thousand.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Menton: Bankers. Churches. Conveyances.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "menton_banks" id =
+"menton_banks"><i>Bankers.</i></a>&mdash;Bank of France, Maison Palmaro.
+In the Av. Victor Emmanuel are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais,
+A.&nbsp;Bottini, and Credit de Nice. In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro
+Bank and the English Consulate. <i>House Agents.</i>&mdash;G. Amaranté
+and T.&nbsp;Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av.&nbsp;V. Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St.
+Michel. English doctors, chemists, and grocers.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "menton_churches" id = "menton_churches"><i>Protestant
+Churches.</i></a>&mdash;Christ Church, adjoining the H.&nbsp;de la Paix;
+St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H.&nbsp;Italie;
+Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R.&nbsp;Partouneaux.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "menton_cabs" id =
+"menton_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>&mdash;One-horse cab&mdash;the course,
+1&nbsp;fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs. Two-horse cab&mdash;the course,
+1&nbsp;fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3&nbsp;frs. 75 c. A&nbsp;one-horse cab for
+the whole day costs 20 frs.; a&nbsp;two-horse cab, 25 frs. Donkey for
+the whole day, 5&nbsp;frs.; gratuity, 1&nbsp;fr. Boats, 2&nbsp;frs. the
+hour.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">195</span>
+<a name = "page195" id = "page195"> </a>
+<!-- png 242 -->
+
+<p>Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St.
+Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two
+smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built.
+The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in
+8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even
+slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The
+public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the
+town to Cape St. Martin. A&nbsp;kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip
+of ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets.
+Immediately behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs,
+intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The
+valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep,
+badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.</p>
+
+<p>The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending
+from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two
+roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the
+bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous
+bone-caverns. The <i>débris</i> found in these caves, like the
+shell-banks in the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste
+accumulation from the food of the early inhabitants, together with the
+stone implements they had employed. Four of the caves are above the
+railway, a&nbsp;little beyond the viaduct under the Italian
+custom-house, and two are just below the line close to the beach.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cape St. Martin. Gorbio. St. Agnès.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "cape_st_martin" id = "cape_st_martin"><b>Cape St.
+Martin</b></a>, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The tram
+stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from the
+cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a&nbsp;Roman sepulchre,
+consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that
+remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From
+this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive
+trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are
+the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of
+<a href = "#st_honorat">St. Honorat</a> (p.&nbsp;158). Afterwards the road
+leading westward joins the carriage-way, which sweeps round the
+peninsula. A&nbsp;stony path on the W. side, parallel to the road,
+extends along the coast by the rocks and cliffs (see <a href =
+"#map185">map, p.&nbsp;185</a>).</p>
+
+<p><a name = "gorbio" id = "gorbio"><b>Gorbio</b></a>, 2½ hrs. or 5 m.
+N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. above the sea. Take the
+road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the entrance into the Villa
+(Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of lemon and olive trees. When
+about 1 hr. from the village the road
+<span class = "pagenum">196</span>
+<a name = "page196" id = "page196"> </a>
+<!-- png 243 -->
+becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop.
+500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the
+stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow,
+steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the
+little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end
+of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the
+tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The
+rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends,
+in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds
+lovely views. <a name = "st_agnes" id = "st_agnes"><b>St. Agnès</b></a>,
+pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea, or 330 ft. below the
+mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle built in the 10th
+cent. by Haroun, a&nbsp;bold Saracen chief. A&nbsp;narrow path leads up
+to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive prospect.</p>
+
+<p>From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the
+village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side
+of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of
+execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of
+much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the
+traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed
+of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion
+should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Annonciade. Castellar.</span></p>
+
+<p>Convent and Chapel of the <a name = "annonciade" id =
+"annonciade"><b>Annonciade</b></a>, 722 ft. above the sea, on the ridge
+between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank of
+the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel
+Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of
+the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this
+easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the
+convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "castellar" id = "castellar"><b>Castellar</b></a>, 1280 ft.
+above the sea, 4&nbsp;m. north, pop. 770. The road commences from the
+narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a&nbsp;few yards W. from the Place du
+Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad highway which
+skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with lemon and olive
+trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream Menton. With a
+few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the
+plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village,
+consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets lined with ugly dingy
+houses, and terminating
+<span class = "pagenum">197</span>
+<a name = "page197" id = "page197"> </a>
+<!-- png 244 -->
+at the N. end with the parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church
+are the crumbling ruins of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the
+Byzantine Emperors. From the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm
+trees, is a charming view. Here also the village feast-day is held on
+the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the
+ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent
+prospect. Guide advisable.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bennet’s Garden.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "pont_st_louis" id = "pont_st_louis"><b>Pont St.
+Louis</b></a>, <a name = "bennet_garden" id =
+"bennet_garden"><b>Bennet’s Garden</b></a>, Hamlets of <a name =
+"menton_grimaldi" id = "menton_grimaldi"><b>Grimaldi</b></a> and <a name
+= "menton_ciotti" id = "menton_ciotti"><b>Ciotti</b></a>.&mdash;At the
+east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France and Italy,
+a&nbsp;narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge of
+one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are an
+Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet
+Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point,
+the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper
+entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The
+garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is
+chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full
+bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are
+charming.</p>
+
+<p>The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky
+hill leads to Grimaldi, a&nbsp;few straggling cottages among olive and
+lemon trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and
+having passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends
+the hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.),
+consisting of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from
+Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Mortola. Hanbury Grounds.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "la_mortola" id = "la_mortola"><b>La Mortola</b></a>, about
+2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia omnibus passes through
+Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of the <a name =
+"hanbury_grounds" id = "hanbury_grounds"><b>Hanbury Grounds</b></a>,
+consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach by terraces. Large
+olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the more sheltered nooks
+are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with the house, the
+Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the Pergola,
+a&nbsp;charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive
+pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants.
+Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent
+view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera,
+is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the
+highest part of the road, a&nbsp;little to the W. of Mortola. For time
+and conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the
+Palmaro Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The
+<span class = "pagenum">198</span>
+<a name = "page198" id = "page198"> </a>
+<!-- png 245 -->
+generous founder and father of the present owner died a few years ago.
+Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of the most favoured little
+valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an hour’s drive from
+Bordighera.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Les Moulins. Monti. Hermit’s Grotto.</span></p>
+
+<p>The most important drive towards the interior is to <b>Sospel</b>, 14
+m. N., on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see
+<a href = "#sospel">p.&nbsp;182</a>). Excellent carriage-road all the way,
+ascending by the western or railway station side of the Carrei. In the
+lower part of the valley are large plantations of lemon trees. To the
+left of the road near the octroi are Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with
+four stages of water-wheels. 4&nbsp;m. farther up the valley of the
+Carrei, on a eminence considerably above the stream, are the church and
+straggling village of <a name = "monti" id = "monti"><b>Monti</b></a>.
+The bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to
+Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti,
+opposite the part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left,
+is seen a small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This
+bridge crosses the stream that forms the cascade called the
+Gourg-d’Ora.</p>
+
+<p>About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an
+almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window
+or cavity called the <a name = "hermits_grotto" id =
+"hermits_grotto"><b>Hermit’s Grotto</b></a>. Over the entrance is an
+illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another
+inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this
+cave:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO.<br>
+1528.<br>
+(Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)</p>
+
+<p>The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds.
+by 4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about
+27 yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3
+yds. long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the
+opening. Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have
+retired from grief.</p>
+
+<p>At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility
+to take part in the third crusade, a&nbsp;lord, named Robert de Ferques,
+hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign.
+This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride,
+Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation,
+resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by
+concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the
+capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her
+horse, and was forced to stop at an inn.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Robert de
+<span class = "pagenum">199</span>
+<a name = "page199" id = "page199"> </a>
+<!-- png 247 -->
+Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon
+his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the
+old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the
+death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so overwhelmed with
+grief that, with the consent of the Count of Boulogne, he resolved to
+give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude,
+a&nbsp;life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war with
+the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret
+Bernard.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Castellon. Climate.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near
+the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the
+walled town of <a name = "castellon" id =
+"castellon"><b>Castellon</b></a> or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft
+above the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼&nbsp;m. from Menton,
+pop. 320. 5¾&nbsp;m. farther is <a href = "#sospel">Sospel</a>, pop.
+3500 (p.&nbsp;182).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "menton_climate" id =
+"menton_climate"><i>Climate.</i></a>&mdash;Menton being protected by an
+amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here
+are generally milder.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any
+period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land,
+must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the
+leading characteristics of the climate of this region&mdash;the
+Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who
+want bracing, renovating&mdash;for the very young, the invalid
+middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging,
+requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the
+stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of
+continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of
+doors both possible and agreeable. I&nbsp;selected Menton as my winter
+residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced pulmonary
+consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton&nbsp;I am now
+surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases.
+This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by
+rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of
+nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus
+brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating
+food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician to attain this
+end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera.”
+&mdash;Bennet’s <i>Winter Climates</i>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+“With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain
+shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to
+the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these
+directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the
+weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sundown
+steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean temperature of
+November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. When the air is
+still, a&nbsp;summer heat often prevails during the day, though in the
+shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°.”
+&mdash;<i>Wintering at Menton</i>, by A.&nbsp;M. Brown.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For the Excursions, see maps <a href = "#map163">pp. 163</a> and <a href
+= "#map185">185</a>.</p>
+
+
+<!-- png 246 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 199</span>
+ITALIAN RIVIERA, &amp;c.<br>
+<a name = "map199" id = "map199" href = "images/map199.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map199thumb.png" width = "488" height = "315"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">200</span>
+<a name = "page200" id = "page200"> </a>
+<!-- png 248 -->
+
+<h4><span class = "sans">THE ITALIAN RIVIERA,</span><br>
+<span class = "smallcaps">or</span><br>
+<a name = "menton_to_genoa" id = "menton_to_genoa">
+<b>Menton to Genoa.</b></a></h4>
+
+<p class = "center">
+By <span class = "smallcaps">Ventimiglia, Bordighera, San Remo</span>,
+and <span class = "smallcaps">Savona</span>.</p>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Distance 100½ miles. See <a href = "#map199">accompanying Map</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles to">100½</span>
+<b>MENTON.</b> The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the
+bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.</p>
+
+<p>6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of
+Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">6¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">93¾</span>
+<a name = "ventimiglia" id = "ventimiglia"><b>VENTIMIGLIA</b></a>, pop.
+8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. <i>Inns:</i> near station, the
+Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. All the trains halt
+here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or Italy is examined. The
+new station is commodious. At one end of the luggage-room is a clock
+with Paris time, and at the other one with the time of Rome, 47 minutes
+in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms,
+“Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment rooms are all at the French
+end, as well as the way out to the train. The town is well seen from the
+station. The church occupies a prominent position; and close to it, in
+the Via Lascaris, are the post office, theatre, and the best café. The
+walk up this same Via to the town-gate shows the best part of the town,
+while the avenues in continuation beyond it lead up to the best sites
+for views. Not far from the station, on the right bank of the Nervia,
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery,
+which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What remains
+of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from the
+quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under the
+direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province.
+Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily between
+Ventimiglia and <a href = "#tenda">Tenda</a>, p.&nbsp;183.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bordighera.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">10</span>
+<span class = "miles to">90½</span>
+<a name = "bordighera" id = "bordighera"><b>BORDIGHERA</b></a>, pop.
+2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is compactly built on the
+summit of the eminence rising from the cape S.&nbsp;Ampeglio, whose
+sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level
+with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of the invalids reside,
+though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. <i>Hotels:</i> the
+best is the ¹*H.&nbsp;Angleterre, a&nbsp;first-class house in a garden,
+near the station.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Similarly situated is the
+<span class = "pagenum">201</span>
+<a name = "page201" id = "page201"> </a>
+<!-- png 249 -->
+¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 frs. Behind the Angleterre is
+the Episcopal chapel. West from the Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10
+frs. Immediately opposite station are ²H. and P.&nbsp;Continental, 9 to
+11 frs.; the ²H. and P.&nbsp;Sapia, 8 to 9&nbsp;frs., and the Bordighera
+bank, where money can be changed. Eastward are the hotels ²Victoria and
+²Windsor. Admirably situated on an eminence overlooking the Moreno
+palm-garden is the ¹*H.&nbsp;and P.&nbsp;Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it
+is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9&nbsp;frs. At the commencement of the
+Vallecrosia valley is a Home with industrial school for orphans of poor
+Italian Protestants, founded by an English lady. Omnibus between
+Bordighera and San Remo, passing through Ospedaletti, a&nbsp;beautiful
+drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia.
+It passes through the low town of Ventimiglia and stops at the
+commencement of the ascent to the high town.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose
+tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale yellow
+fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive
+trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, after the olive,
+is the most profitable tree.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To the <i>Tower of Mostaccini</i>, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada
+Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This
+tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as
+an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a
+delightful view of part of the coast.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Isola Buona.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the <a name = "nervia"
+id = "nervia">valley of the Nervia</a>, 16&nbsp;m. long from north to
+south, with a varying breadth of 1½ to 2½&nbsp;m. A&nbsp;good
+carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11&nbsp;m. from
+Bordighera. On this road, 1½&nbsp;m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4&nbsp;m.
+from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with the
+Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th cent.
+St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and on the
+sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The
+confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads
+up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce,
+commanding an extensive view. About 2&nbsp;m. farther up the valley is
+Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone bridge
+with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses crowded
+together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal castle of
+the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese
+in 1672. 2¼&nbsp;m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½&nbsp;m. from Bordighera, is
+<a name = "isola_buona" id = "isola_buona"><b>Isola Buona</b></a>, pop.
+1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold
+sulphurous springs. From Isola, a&nbsp;little way up the Merdanio or
+Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the
+birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the most famous
+of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as
+directors of the observatory at Paris for four generations.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pigna.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is <a name = "pigna" id =
+"pigna"><b>Pigna</b></a>, on the <b>Nervia</b>,
+<span class = "pagenum">202</span>
+<a name = "page202" id = "page202"> </a>
+<!-- png 250 -->
+at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a&nbsp;village
+where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber
+from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose
+window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the
+apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the
+church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and
+picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous
+spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near
+Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of
+Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4&nbsp;m. N.,
+to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾&nbsp;m. N.E., by
+Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S.&nbsp;Ampeglio is
+the hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster
+representing the Annunciation. A&nbsp;short way farther a path descends
+from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and
+lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an
+excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the Corniche road
+bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills behind Ospedaletti,
+about 2&nbsp;m. N., is <a name = "la_colla" id = "la_colla"><b>La
+Colla</b></a>, 1000 ft. above the sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable
+collection of 120 paintings, mostly by great Italian masters, such as
+Frà Bartolomeo,&nbsp;I. Bassano, F.&nbsp;Barocci, A. Carracci,
+Caravaggio, Cortona, C.&nbsp;Dolci, Domenichino, Sasso Ferrati, Reni,
+Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. In another room is the
+library. The pictures and books were collected by the Abbé Paolo
+Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at his death (1864)
+bequeathed them to this his native city. In the sacristy of the parish
+church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with
+some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this
+quarter. A&nbsp;coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back
+costs 20 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary to
+the orders of Pope Sixtus&nbsp;V., broke the silence by calling aloud to
+“wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St.
+Peter’s. 2&nbsp;m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3&nbsp;m. from
+Ospedaletti.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a
+residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at
+Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the
+configuration of the coast into a west wind.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, as
+also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of
+Tabernacles.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Ospedaletti.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">13½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">87</span>
+<a name = "ospedaletti" id = "ospedaletti"><b>OSPEDALETTI</b></a>, pop.
+1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage towards the sea,
+from which it is separated by the railway. In the village is the ²H. and
+P.&nbsp;Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month.
+<span class = "pagenum">203</span>
+<a name = "page203" id = "page203"> </a>
+<!-- png 251 -->
+Upon an eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs.
+Adjoining is a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during
+the day. The gambling is private, and on a small scale.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+San Remo. Hotels.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">16½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">84</span>
+<a name = "san_remo" id = "san_remo"><b>SAN REMO</b></a>, 16¼ m. E. from
+Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter 18,000. As Italy is entered it
+will be observed that the women, the maidens and their mothers, are the
+hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the
+menial work of the most laborious trades.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "san_remo_hotels" id =
+"san_remo_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>&mdash;Those with the figure ¹ are
+first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that
+they are especially good of their class. Commencing at the railway
+station and going eastward by the principal street, the Via Vittorio
+Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H.&nbsp;de la Paix, close to the station and
+fronting the public garden.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Then follow the ²H. and P.&nbsp;Nationale, 7 to 8&nbsp;frs.; the
+¹*H.&nbsp;San Remo; the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the
+Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P.
+Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, frequented principally by commercial
+travellers. Behind Squire’s is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little
+farther west, left hand, the Post Office.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio
+Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H.&nbsp;Angleterre. Near the
+Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and the
+Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings the
+week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctors’
+fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except washing
+and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts &amp;
+Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front
+to the sea and the other to the road&mdash;the ¹H. Méditerranée and the
+¹*H.&nbsp;Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via&nbsp;V. Emanuele,
+are the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H.&nbsp;Bains.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in
+gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P.
+Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German);
+¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate);
+¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on
+this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant
+walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the pension is from
+9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo
+and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and
+Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½&nbsp;m. N. (see <a href =
+"#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "san_remo_cabs" id = "san_remo_cabs"><i>Cab
+Fares.</i></a>&mdash;The course, 1 horse, 1&nbsp;fr. during the day, and
+1½
+<span class = "pagenum">204</span>
+<a name = "page204" id = "page204"> </a>
+<!-- png 252 -->
+fr. night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½
+fr. during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3&nbsp;frs.; at
+night, 4&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "san_remo_climate" id =
+"san_remo_climate">
+<span class = "headnote">San Remo: Climate.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot
+of these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via
+Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants,
+booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean
+temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s
+estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of
+the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet
+for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly
+3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the
+protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter
+from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast
+olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into
+healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and
+removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected
+spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable
+choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying
+distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while
+the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers,
+provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” &mdash;Williams’
+<i>Winter Stations</i>.</p>
+
+<p>San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as
+at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on
+terraces built up with low stone walls without plaster.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "san_remo_drives" id =
+"san_remo_drives">
+<span class = "headnote">San Remo: Drives. Poggio. Madonna Della
+Guardia.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San
+Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the
+Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where
+the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the
+latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the
+“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through
+olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to
+the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory,
+while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on
+the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. <a name = "poggio" id =
+"poggio"><b>Poggio</b></a>, one of the many wretchedly poor villages,
+has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo
+to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Etoile d’Italie, 6½&nbsp;m. from San Remo,
+commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of
+wild flowers, form the principal
+<span class = "pagenum">205</span>
+<a name = "page205" id = "page205"> </a>
+<!-- png 253 -->
+attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to <a name = "ceriana" id
+= "ceriana"><b>Ceriana</b></a> and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs.,
+with ½ hr. rest. <a name = "madonna_della_guardia" id =
+"madonna_della_guardia">The Madonna road</a> from Poggio is nearly
+level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of
+Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the
+coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the
+hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is
+Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1
+horse to the chapel and back, 7&nbsp;frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr.
+rest (see maps, <a href = "#map163">pp. 163</a> and <a href =
+"#map199">199</a>).</p>
+
+<p>A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La
+Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the
+sea, and 2&nbsp;m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse,
+8&nbsp;frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See <a href =
+"#page199">page 199</a>.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+San Romolo.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "san_romolo_to_mt_bignone" id =
+"san_romolo_to_mt_bignone">
+St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.</a></h5>
+
+<p>One of the most frequented excursions is to <a name = "san_romolo" id
+= "san_romolo"><b>San Romolo</b></a>, 1700 ft. above the sea, and
+4&nbsp;m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place
+St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5&nbsp;frs. San Romolo consists of some
+villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was
+inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from
+it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a&nbsp;ridge 3500 ft. above
+the sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the
+ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the
+left, and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path
+ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or
+about half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte
+Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who
+are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite
+practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat
+trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is
+exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost
+every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with
+amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it
+runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and
+rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after
+an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the
+broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the
+ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained,
+and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable
+<span class = "pagenum">206</span>
+<a name = "page206" id = "page206"> </a>
+<!-- png 254 -->
+lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of
+more than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the
+beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and
+in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte
+Rotondo; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the
+western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero
+surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther
+away, the mountains of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast
+successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes
+and even the Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with
+on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di
+Lampeduza, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the
+east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di
+Levante, with the Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a
+broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of mountains
+still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these
+again, the snow-capped Alps stretching away in the one direction towards
+the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into
+the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is
+seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side,
+Apricale; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the
+tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great altitude. There
+is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where
+accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night; whence
+the return home can then be made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera,
+altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the
+<a href = "#nervia">Nervia</a>, see p.&nbsp;201, and <a href =
+"#map163">map, p.&nbsp;165</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "monte_bignone" id = "monte_bignone">
+<span class = "headnote">View from Monte Bignone.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of
+the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must
+be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in
+Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with
+ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair
+health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare
+and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a
+lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue
+Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica&nbsp;L., a&nbsp;pink variety of which is
+sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens
+Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the
+Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit
+<span class = "pagenum">207</span>
+<a name = "page207" id = "page207"> </a>
+<!-- png 255 -->
+of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian,
+Gentiana verna and G.&nbsp;acaulis&nbsp;L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a
+species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia;
+Sempervivum arachnoideum&nbsp;L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne
+laureola L.&nbsp;With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found
+in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks
+previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of
+Helleborus fœtidus&nbsp;L., as also for the first time in flower the
+large and handsome pink Cistus, C.&nbsp;albidus&nbsp;L.; this is the
+species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.”
+&mdash;<i>San Remo and the Western Riviera</i>, by Dr. Hassall.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "san_remo_to_taggia" id = "san_remo_to_taggia"><b>San Remo
+to Taggia</b></a>, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8&nbsp;frs.; 2 horses,
+12 frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or
+from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey
+from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2&nbsp;frs.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia,
+formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or
+Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the
+east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar,
+whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di
+Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road
+ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of
+Badalucco.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Taggia.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">21½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">79</span>
+<a name = "taggia" id = "taggia"><b>TAGGIA</b></a>, pop. 5000, on the
+Giabonte, 3&nbsp;m. from the station. An omnibus awaits passengers
+(½&nbsp;fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at the
+termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar,
+situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about ½
+hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy
+sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town,
+with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At
+No. 1 Via Soleri&mdash;the principal street in the town&mdash;is the
+habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering
+the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to
+the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the
+beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the
+ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2&nbsp;m. farther east by rail
+is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like
+that of San Remo.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Porto Maurizio. Oneglia.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">31</span>
+<span class = "miles to">69½</span>
+<a name = "porto_maurizio" id = "porto_maurizio"><b>PORTO
+MAURIZIO</b></a>, pop. 8000. <i>Hotels:</i> France; Commerce.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "oneglia" id = "oneglia"><b>Porto Oneglia</b></a>, pop.
+8000, H.&nbsp;Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most
+important part of San Maurizio is the high town,
+<span class = "pagenum">208</span>
+<a name = "page208" id = "page208"> </a>
+<!-- png 256 -->
+containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double
+row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior
+represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this
+coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly
+finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided
+into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with
+attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are
+covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the
+edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly
+hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows
+and doorways. A&nbsp;good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade,
+connects Porto Maurizio with <b>Oneglia</b>, about a mile distant,
+beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace
+of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we
+reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is
+covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence
+overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full
+of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way
+to</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Alassio.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "alassio" id = "alassio"><b>Alassio</b></a>, pop. 5000, a
+new winter station, 44½&nbsp;m. east from Menton, and 56&nbsp;m. west
+from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a high wall,
+with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. <i>Hotels:</i> H.&nbsp;et
+P.&nbsp;Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9&nbsp;frs. On the beach at the
+E. end, the *G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Alassio, 8 to 9&nbsp;frs. On the beach at
+the W. end, the H.&nbsp;Méditerranée, 6 to 8&nbsp;frs. Near the station,
+the Episcopal chapel.</p>
+
+<p>Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from
+some of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the
+chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways
+extend up the hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano
+and Ceriale, or up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns
+are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant.
+Between Alassio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of
+Gallinaria, with a castle on the summit of the hill.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Albenga.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "albenga" id = "albenga"><b>Albenga</b></a> is 4 m. N. from
+Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. Their omnibuses await
+passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the
+Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad valley watered
+by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and
+there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as
+espaliers. A&nbsp;good carriage-road
+<span class = "pagenum">209</span>
+<a name = "page209" id = "page209"> </a>
+<!-- png 257 -->
+extends up the valley of the Nerva and across the Col di
+S.&nbsp;Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio and the valley of the
+Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.</p>
+
+<p>After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the
+beach at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the
+Isola, pop. 1000, a&nbsp;sheltered town, with abundance of palms,
+orange, and lemon trees, principally at the eastern end, round the
+cape.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Finalmarina. Noli.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">59½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">41</span>
+<a name = "finalmarina" id = "finalmarina"><b>FINALMARINA</b></a>, pop.
+3500. <i>Hotel:</i> Garibaldi. The church of St. John the Baptist, after
+the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles of various
+hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand
+combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church
+S.&nbsp;Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The
+pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great
+deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the
+valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th
+cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a&nbsp;picturesque ruin. Five miles
+N. from Finalmarina is <a name = "noli" id = "noli"><b>Noli</b></a>,
+pop. 1000, <i>Inn:</i> Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the
+arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under
+the protection of Genoa, is still partially surrounded by walls
+garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow
+parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele&nbsp;II., which
+commences at the beach on E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and
+traverses the town to the W. side by the new church. The continuation,
+outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered
+with vines, olives, and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the
+ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old
+church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fishing is the chief industry.
+A&nbsp;beautiful road, 2&nbsp;m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno.</p>
+
+<!-- png 259 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 211</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">GENOA and SAVONA<br>
+to SESTRI-LEVANTE</span><br>
+<a name = "map211" id = "map211" href = "images/map211.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map211thumb.png" width = "424" height = "253"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Savona.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">74</span>
+<span class = "miles to">26½</span>
+<a name = "savona" id = "savona"><b>SAVONA</b></a>, pop. 17,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Suisse, a&nbsp;large house in the Piazza di Teatro;
+*Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. In the
+ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his spoils
+after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now modern,
+consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad streets
+lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in enormous
+square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the Rupe di
+S.&nbsp;Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by
+the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are small
+harbours with shallow water. The
+<span class = "pagenum">210</span>
+<a name = "page210" id = "page210"> </a>
+<!-- png 258 -->
+<a name = "savona_cathedral" id =
+"savona_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, built in 1604, is, in the
+interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades
+of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The
+two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the western end, are
+by&nbsp;V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is
+a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the Sistina chapel, is
+the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius&nbsp;II.
+In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on
+entering, a&nbsp;“Nativity” by A.&nbsp;Semini. The figure of the Virgin
+appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are
+admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an
+“Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a triptych. In a
+small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the altar within a
+niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the
+sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. The
+Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV., and
+Julius&nbsp;II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona.
+4&nbsp;m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra
+Signora di Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered
+with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the
+intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin,
+91&nbsp;m. northwards (see <a href =
+"#savona_to_turin">p.&nbsp;183</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Albissóla.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">77</span>
+<span class = "miles to">23½</span>
+<a name = "albissola" id = "albissola"><b>ALBISSÓLA</b></a>, pop. 2000,
+on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina.
+4½&nbsp;m. farther eastwards by rail is <a name = "varazze" id =
+"varazze"><b>Varazze</b></a>, pop. 10,000, a&nbsp;pleasant town at the
+head of a large bay. A&nbsp;little shipbuilding is carried on here.
+Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange groves. This is the birthplace of
+Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the <i>Golden Legend</i>, the reading
+of which was the principal means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an
+intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6¼&nbsp;m. N.E. from Varazze, is
+another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most
+picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating
+point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees,
+cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of
+<i>Phillyrea angustifolia</i>, with here and there just enough olive
+trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate.
+About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of
+Inoria.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cogoleto. Columbus.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">85</span>
+<span class = "miles to">15½</span>
+<a name = "cogoleto" id = "cogoleto"><b>COGOLETO</b></a>, pop. 1000.
+From the station walk down to the town; and on reaching the main street,
+the Via Cristoforo Colombo,
+<span class = "pagenum">211</span>
+<a name = "page211" id = "page211"> </a>
+<!-- png 260 -->
+turn to the left. In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the
+<a name = "columbus" id = "columbus">house of Columbus</a>, with the
+following inscription:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class = "verse">
+<p>Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;</p>
+<p class = "inset">Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!</p>
+<p>Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the
+other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That
+in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the
+adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where
+it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a
+continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this
+sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast
+continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances,
+they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious
+nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of
+Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of
+Cogoleto. <a href = "#map199">Map, p.&nbsp;<ins class = "correction"
+title = "text reads ‘220’">199</ins></a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arenzano. Pegli.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">87¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">13¼</span>
+<a name = "arenzano" id = "arenzano"><b>ARENZANO</b></a>, pop. 5000.
+*H.&nbsp;Arenzano, 7 to 8&nbsp;frs., near station. One of the cleanest
+towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque country and
+commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between Arenzano and
+Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">91¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">8¾</span>
+<a name = "voltri" id = "voltri"><b>VOLTRI</b></a>, and the next town,
+Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and shipbuilding are the principal
+industries. <a href = "#map199">Map, p.&nbsp;<ins class = "correction"
+title = "text reads ‘220’">199</ins></a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">95</span>
+<span class = "miles to">5½</span>
+<a name = "pegli" id = "pegli"><b>PEGLI</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>A winter
+station.</i> The largest hotel is the *H.&nbsp;Pegli et de la
+Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other to the public
+garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15 frs. On the beach
+the H.&nbsp;Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little village,
+prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant
+communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of
+the grounds around the <a name = "villa_pallavicini" id =
+"villa_pallavicini"><b>Villa Pallavicini</b></a>, ornamented with
+statues of Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an
+obelisk. But the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with
+large stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5&nbsp;feet deep, surrounded
+by evergreen shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully
+pretty vistas. At one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea,
+although many miles distant. All this has been created on the formerly
+sterile side of a hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of
+water and of soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused
+to tumble down the mountain in cascades
+<span class = "pagenum">212</span>
+<a name = "page212" id = "page212"> </a>
+<!-- png 261 -->
+into the lake, which had to be lined with porcelain to retain it. The
+cave was then built of brick, and covered with consummate art with
+stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed in a boat about this
+most curious piece of land and water. In other parts there are a
+multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, and in beautiful
+peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, 1&nbsp;fr.; for
+party, 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sestri-Ponente. Cornigliano.</span></p>
+
+<p>1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is <a name =
+"sestri_ponente" id = "sestri_ponente"><b>Sestri-Ponente</b></a>, pop.
+10,800. <i>Hotel:</i> *G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with
+commodious bathing establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach,
+composed of small pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be
+brought to bedroom every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the
+trams pass by the gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly
+gilt and covered with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are
+painted statues of the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better
+winter station than the next town, <a name = "cornigliano" id =
+"cornigliano"><b>Cornigliano</b></a>, *H.&nbsp;Rachel, 9 to 12 frs.,
+with sheltered garden, 2½&nbsp;m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are
+considered from 4° to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden
+gate of both hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the
+populous suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal
+railway station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the
+terminus of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 264 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 214</span>
+<a name = "map214" id = "map214" href = "images/map214.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map214thumb.png" width = "463" height = "336"
+alt = "plan of Genoa" title = "GENOA"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span>
+<span class = "miles from">100½</span>
+<a name = "genoa" id = "genoa"><b>GENOA</b></a>, pop. 145,000. The
+hotels most conveniently situated for visitors are the G. H.&nbsp;de
+Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari, opposite the theatre and
+the post office; the *G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Isotta, 10 to 15 frs., No. 7 Via
+di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the post; the
+*Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the Piazza
+Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above are in
+a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port in the
+Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who have to
+embark, are&mdash;taking them in the order from W. to E.&mdash;the Croix
+de Malte, the H.&nbsp;de la Ville, the H.&nbsp;Smith, the
+*H.&nbsp;Trombetta, and the *France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By
+the side of the last two hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood
+of the Bourse are the best money-changers.</p>
+
+<p>For <b>Genoa to Turin</b>, see <a href = "#genoa_to_turin">p.
+279</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards
+from the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad
+street Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian
+churches. Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli
+Orefici by the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere
+<span class = "pagenum">213</span>
+<a name = "page213" id = "page213"> </a>
+<!-- png 262 -->
+della Maddalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At
+No. 17 of that Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: Cafés. Cabs. Steamers.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "genoa_cafes" id = "genoa_cafes"><i>Cafés.</i></a>&mdash;
+*Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle Nazioni, Via
+Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. <b>The principal sights</b> are the
+church of the <a href = "#genoa_annunziata">Annunziata</a>, p.&nbsp;212;
+the Cemetery approached by the Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de
+Ferrari; the Palaces between the railway station and the Piazza Nuova.
+The church of <a href = "#genoa_sta_maria">Santa Maria in Carignano</a>,
+approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari, passing
+through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea (p.&nbsp;218).
+North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the Museum of
+Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di
+Circonvallazione.</p>
+
+<p>Florio-Rubattino have <a name = "genoa_steamers" id =
+"genoa_steamers">steamers</a> to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari,
+Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily.
+Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania,
+Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English
+steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean,
+apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S.&nbsp;Lorenzo.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "genoa_cabs" id = "genoa_cabs">1-horse cabs</a>&mdash;the
+course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½ hour, 80 c. 2-horse
+cabs&mdash;the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2&nbsp;frs.; every successive ½
+hour, 1&nbsp;fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1&nbsp;fr. each. Rail
+from <a href = "#genoa_to_turin">Genoa to Turin</a>, 104&nbsp;m. N.W.
+(p.&nbsp;279).</p>
+
+<p>Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo
+Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.</p>
+
+<p>Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving
+ground, rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500
+to 600 feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets
+from 6 to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be
+cut in them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di
+Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos”
+skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza
+Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to
+the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the
+upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di
+Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of
+Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style&mdash;gates 40
+feet high, with marble columns&mdash;courts paved with various coloured
+marbles&mdash;broad staircases, all of marble&mdash;rooms 30 feet high
+with arched ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors,
+crystal lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels
+<span class = "pagenum">214</span>
+<a name = "page214" id = "page214"> </a>
+<!-- png 263 -->
+divided by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings
+in oil. The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a
+continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the
+west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "genoa_palaces" id = "genoa_palaces">
+<span class = "headnote">Genoa: Palaces. Palazzo Doria.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of
+art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty
+staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo
+Pallavicini, No.&nbsp;1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via
+Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces
+are remarkable. A&nbsp;fee of 1&nbsp;fr. is sufficient to leave with the
+keeper of the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms
+provided with a list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on
+a card, which makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and
+guides.</p>
+
+<p>As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and
+the cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after
+having visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot
+of the Via S.&nbsp;Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele,
+round by the ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria
+di Carignano.</p>
+
+<p>The only palace west from the station is the <a name =
+"genoa_pal_doria" id = "genoa_pal_doria"><b>Palazzo Doria</b></a>,
+reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by
+Perino del Vaga, a&nbsp;pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to the
+paintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeating
+the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the
+entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea
+Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P.&nbsp;Carlone. In the
+garden, on the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of
+Hercules, erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog
+Rolando, given him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the
+title of “Il Principe.” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San
+Matteo, and over the altar the sword presented to him by
+Paul&nbsp;III.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: Via Milano.</span></p>
+<p>Adjoining the Doria palace is the <a name = "genoa_via_milano" id =
+"genoa_via_milano"><b>Via Milano</b></a>, a&nbsp;terraced promenade
+lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more
+costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking
+<i>eastward from the station</i> the first large building is the Royal
+Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the
+Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P.&nbsp;F. Cantone and
+J.&nbsp;A. Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been
+so greatly admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The
+accommodation is extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the
+principal
+<span class = "pagenum">215</span>
+<a name = "page215" id = "page215"> </a>
+<!-- png 265 -->
+reception hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are
+indifferent.</p>
+
+<p>The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of
+B.&nbsp;Bianco, and improved by P.&nbsp;A. Corradi, contains a large
+collection of paintings&mdash;among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a
+St. Jerome, by Guido; St. Jerome, a&nbsp;Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by
+Tizziano; a&nbsp;St. George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by
+<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Coreggio’">Correggio</ins>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: P. Durazzo Pallavicini.</span></p>
+
+<p>No. 1 Via Balbi is the <a name = "genoa_pal_durazzo" id =
+"genoa_pal_durazzo"><b>P. Durazzo Pallavicini</b></a>, one of the most
+important to visit. The architect was B.&nbsp;Bianco, but the vestibule
+and staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by
+A.&nbsp;Tagliafico. The paintings are almost entirely by Italian
+masters, such as Molinaretti, Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci,
+Lanfranco, Procaccini, Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari,
+Vercelli, Reni, Merone, Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first
+room there is a valuable triptych by A.&nbsp;Durer, and the gem of the
+collection, James&nbsp;I. of England and Family, by Van Dyck. In the
+reception room are other three choice works by the same master. The
+frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, Davolio, and Bazzani. In each
+room there are cards with the names of the artists and subject.</p>
+
+<p>From the Via Balbi we pass into the <a name = "genoa_annunziata" id =
+"genoa_annunziata"><b>Piazza dell’ Annunziata</b></a>, with, on the left
+hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa, built in
+1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its present state
+by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six stately marble
+columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty, and resplendent
+with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the entrance is
+Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on the cupola
+are by A.&nbsp;Ansaldi, those on the choir by J.&nbsp;Benzo, and the
+remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things
+are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and
+the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for
+Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to <a name
+= "genoa_san_siro" id = "genoa_san_siro"><b>San Siro</b></a>, which was
+the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar is by Puget. The
+fresco on the roof by G.&nbsp;B. Carlone. The marble columns are all of
+one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6 Piazza
+Pellicceria, is the <b>Palazzo Spinola</b>, with many beautiful
+paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by
+Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino,
+a&nbsp;Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin
+<span class = "pagenum">216</span>
+<a name = "page216" id = "page216"> </a>
+<!-- png 266 -->
+by L.&nbsp;Giordano, the Last Supper by G.&nbsp;C. Procaccini,
+S.&nbsp;Jerome by Spagnolletti, a&nbsp;Holy Family by Albani, the Four
+Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem of the
+collection, a&nbsp;Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by Tavarone,
+G.&nbsp;Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: Palazzo Rosso.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the <a name = "genoa_pal_rosso" id =
+"genoa_pal_rosso"><b>Palazzo Rosso</b></a> (Galleria Brignoli), with a
+small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian masters,
+distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn, and
+Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and Carloni. It
+contains also a good library.</p>
+
+<p>No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the <a name = "genoa_municipio" id =
+"genoa_municipio"><i>Municipicio</i></a> or City Chambers,
+a&nbsp;splendid building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes
+representing incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and
+galleries are open to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala
+Rossa, and the Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a
+portrait of Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing
+him in the presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among
+other paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A.&nbsp;Durer, and in the
+third (the Sala Verde) a&nbsp;beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect
+was Rocco Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by
+G.&nbsp;T. Carlone, and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano,
+and M.&nbsp;Canzio.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: Palazzo Serra.</span></p>
+
+<p>At No. 12 Via Nuova is the <a name = "genoa_pal_serra" id =
+"genoa_pal_serra"><b>P. Serra</b></a>, built, like most of the other
+palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect
+Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments
+are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the
+brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber,
+representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of
+Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect
+Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste.
+But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon,
+shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt,
+alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The
+architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the
+roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks.
+The roof of the next room was painted by A.&nbsp;Semini.</p>
+
+<p>The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though
+smaller display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of
+No.&nbsp;5 in this same street, the <a name = "genoa_pal_spinola" id =
+"genoa_pal_spinola"><b>P.&nbsp;Spinola</b></a>.</p>
+
+<p>At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and
+splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by
+<span class = "pagenum">217</span>
+<a name = "page217" id = "page217"> </a>
+<!-- png 267 -->
+P.&nbsp;Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and
+Tintoretto. We now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office,
+the principal theatre, the H.&nbsp;Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle
+Arti, where young men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and
+sculpture. Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram
+stops at the cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of
+Carignano.</p>
+
+<p>The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to <a name =
+"genoa_san_matteo" id = "genoa_san_matteo"><b>S. Matteo</b></a>, built
+in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G.&nbsp;A. Montorsoli at the request of
+Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on
+the church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of the
+church belonged to the Doria family.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: S. Ambrogio. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the Piazza Nuova is <a name = "genoa_san_ambrogio" id =
+"genoa_san_ambrogio"><b>S. Ambrogio</b></a>, entirely covered with
+beautiful marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of
+the Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the
+Assumption by G.&nbsp;Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one
+possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same
+master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and
+Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former <a name =
+"genoa_pal_ducal" id = "genoa_pal_ducal"><b>Ducal Palace</b></a>, now
+the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is ornamented
+with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena marble. From
+the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed by Guglielmo
+Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used by Godfrey de
+Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.</p>
+
+<p>On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the <a name =
+"genoa_cathedral" id = "genoa_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, built in
+the 11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are
+of black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of
+three large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The
+arch of the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled
+work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief.
+In the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is
+separated from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed
+arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the
+choir has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed
+in the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is <i>the
+chapel of St. John the Baptist</i>, in the centre of the left aisle. It
+was built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G.&nbsp;Porta and
+M.&nbsp;Civitali, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in
+his official robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by
+four porphyry columns is the shrine by D.&nbsp;Terrano (1437), said to
+contain the ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in
+<span class = "pagenum">218</span>
+<a name = "page218" id = "page218"> </a>
+<!-- png 268 -->
+1097. At the end of the right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with
+a Crucifixion by Van Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once
+famous under the name of the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found
+at Cæsarea, in Palestine, and tradition asserted that it had been
+presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, and that out of it the
+Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb with his disciples. It was believed
+to be of emerald; and a law was passed in 1476, declaring that if any
+one applied a hard substance to the vase he should suffer death, because
+it was suspected that the material was only glass.</p>
+
+<p>Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S.&nbsp;Lorenzo is a
+cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola
+Gardens to the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful
+views of Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano,
+passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30&nbsp;c.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Genoa: S. Maria. Campo Santo, or Cemetery.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "genoa_sta_maria" id = "genoa_sta_maria"><b>S. Maria in
+Carignano,</b></a> built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo Alessi, is
+165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above the
+entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four colossal
+statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by Puget; the
+other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings (covered)
+are&mdash;St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and Charles by
+Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross by
+Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the highest
+gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an excellent
+stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square goes to
+the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill at the
+N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine
+view.</p>
+
+<p>About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the
+<a name = "genoa_campo_santo" id = "genoa_campo_santo"><b>Campo
+Santo</b></a>, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½
+hour from the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs
+parallel to the Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and
+inequalities of the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and
+820 ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span
+of 21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three
+coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room
+enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The
+poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded
+by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all
+that money can command in talented sculpture is made to
+<span class = "pagenum">219</span>
+<a name = "page219" id = "page219"> </a>
+<!-- png 269 -->
+do service to the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the
+memory of those they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles.
+These lovely statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than
+the medley contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise
+other two galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another
+large piece of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and
+approached by 77 long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of
+dark greenstone from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel,
+consisting of a great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one
+block of black marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior
+are colossal statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade
+rests on six white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure
+of galleries, stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults
+for the dead.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "genoa_albergo_poveri" id =
+"genoa_albergo_poveri">
+Genoa: Albergo dei Poveri.</a></span>
+At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse,
+<b>Albergo dei Poveri,</b> 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di
+Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing
+accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large
+establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "genoa_to_pisa" id = "genoa_to_pisa">
+The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.</a></h5>
+
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps, <a href
+= "#map199">pages 199</a> and <a href = "#map211">211</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles to">102½</span>
+<b>GENOA.</b>&mdash;The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are,
+with the exception of Bordighera and S.&nbsp;Remo, those situated
+between Nervi and Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and
+sheltered from the N. winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the
+base with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones
+with olive, peach, and fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to
+take advantage of the superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in
+the choice of a site for a villa on Cape Portofino. <a href =
+"#map211">Map, p.&nbsp;211</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nervi.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">7½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">95</span>
+<a name = "nervi" id = "nervi"><b>NERVI</b></a>, pop. 8000. *H.&nbsp;et
+P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large garden, 8 to 15 frs.
+H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to 12 frs. On
+the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H.&nbsp;et
+P.&nbsp;Anglais, the *H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Belle-Vue, 8 to 9&nbsp;frs.,
+including wine; admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and
+at the terminus of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to
+8&nbsp;frs. Opposite, the H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English
+doctors. Episcopalian service.</p>
+
+<p>Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous
+narrow street 2&nbsp;m. long, hemmed in between houses and
+<span class = "pagenum">220</span>
+<a name = "page220" id = "page220"> </a>
+<!-- png 270 -->
+walls. On the S. side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with
+olive trees and studded with churches and cottages. Ten&nbsp;m. S.E.
+from Nervi is <a name = "santa_margherita" id =
+"santa_margherita"><b>Santa Margherita Ligure</b></a>, pop. 5000.
+*H.&nbsp;et P.&nbsp;Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs. A&nbsp;charmingly situated
+town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the neighbourhood is the
+sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful gardens. The
+prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the village and
+promontory of Portofino, 3&nbsp;m. S. To the right or N. is the villa
+Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the promontory
+the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing village of
+Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">18½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">84</span>
+<a name = "rapallo" id = "rapallo"><b>RAPALLO</b></a>, pop. 6000.
+H.&nbsp;et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a small bay.
+A&nbsp;good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the many
+pretty walks is the one to S.&nbsp;Margherita, 2&nbsp;m. N., by the low
+road skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle
+longer.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chiávari.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">24¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">78¼</span>
+<a name = "chiavari" id = "chiavari"><b>CHIÁVARI</b></a>, pop. 12,000,
+at the mouth of the Entella. <i>Inns:</i> Albergo della Fenicé; Locanda
+Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the best towns on the coast,
+with well-paved and arcaded streets, substantial houses, and handsome
+churches containing a few valuable pictures. The most profusely
+ornamented is, close to the station, the church of the Virgin of Orta,
+whose “sacred” picture hangs over the high altar. Chiávari manufactures
+lace and chairs of light wood with twisted straw seats, plain and
+coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the organ-grinders are said
+to hail from this town. 4½&nbsp;m. from Chiávari, across the Lavagnaro,
+is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. <i>Hotels:</i> Grand Hotel, with
+palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this pleasant place,
+the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay terminating with
+a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand view. Shortly
+after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf of Spezia
+comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the island of
+Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief of which
+is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Spezia.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">56½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">46</span>
+<a name = "spezia" id = "spezia"><b>SPEZIA</b></a>, pop. 11,500, 1 m.
+from station. Spezia, although near good scenery, has nothing attractive
+itself; neither does it make a suitable winter residence. It has some
+excellent hotels bordering the spacious corso along the beach, the best
+being the “Croce di Malta,” a&nbsp;large and handsome building, 10 to 15
+frs. Then follow the&nbsp;H.
+<span class = "pagenum">221</span>
+<a name = "page221" id = "page221"> </a>
+<!-- png 271 -->
+National; the Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all
+first-class, but the Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man,
+1½ fr. per hour; with two men, 2&nbsp;frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a
+station of the Italian navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and
+largest in the world. Napoleon&nbsp;I. intended to have made it the
+Mediterranean harbour of France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest
+side of the town, occupies 150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in
+the bay of S.&nbsp;Vito, cover an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of
+the bay is the picturesque Porto Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris,
+8&nbsp;m. distant by land, 10 frs. per carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs.
+The marble of Porto Venere is black, with gold-coloured veins.</p>
+
+<p>“To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte
+Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the
+Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte
+Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand
+panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of
+Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While
+the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern
+and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which
+renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the
+Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia
+valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that
+time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A&nbsp;favourite
+excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about
+6&nbsp;m. S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in
+a most sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the
+sun has set at Spezia. The house, a&nbsp;square old-fashioned Italian
+villa, which Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea,
+near the village.” &mdash;<i>The Riviera</i>, by Dr. Sparks. After
+Spezia, the train crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy
+and Liguria, and arrives at</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sarzana.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">67¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">34¾</span>
+<a name = "sarzana" id = "sarzana"><b>SARZANA</b></a>, pop. 11,200.
+<i>Hotels:</i> New York; Londres. This ancient town, with the
+picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the Grand Duke
+of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese in
+exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the
+birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447
+elected pope under the title of Nicholas&nbsp;V., and who constituted
+his native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and
+founder of the Vatican library.</p>
+
+<p>The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed
+<span class = "pagenum">222</span>
+<a name = "page222" id = "page222"> </a>
+<!-- png 272 -->
+to Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice,
+partly of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first
+street right, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen
+minutes’ farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca,
+a&nbsp;beautiful though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill
+overlooking the railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins,
+and well seen from the station.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Avenza. Carrara.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">74</span>
+<span class = "miles to">31</span>
+<a name = "avenza" id = "avenza"><b>AVENZA</b></a>. Station for Carrara,
+3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also for Carrara await passengers at
+the station. Fare, 5&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "carrara" id = "carrara"><b>Carrara</b></a> (pop. 14,000),
+situated on the Carrione, formed by the union of the Torano,
+Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys with valuable
+marble strata. <i>Hotels:</i> The Nazionale, close to the theatre; The
+Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the Accademia. Near the
+Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the station great blocks
+of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing the bridge by Walton’s
+marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza
+Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. Near the
+right side of this piazza are the two hotels. The road to the left leads
+up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of
+the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara. The valley now becomes
+narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more
+numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. To the left rises
+Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di
+Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans
+procured statuary marble, and which still continue to yield some of the
+finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which there are 400,
+employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the mountains. The
+ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris. The nearest and the
+easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The other quarries are in
+the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent the Fantiscritti. In
+the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been found. Any boy will do to
+show the way to the rivers Carrione and Torano, and when there it is
+impossible to go wrong; but to visit any particular mines a guide is
+necessary. Fee 4&nbsp;fr. Besides the common road there is a railway for
+the conveyance of marble blocks from the valley of the Torano to the
+Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique Roman statues are of marble from
+Carrara, anciently called Luni. The marble of which the Greek statues
+are made is from Paros, and from Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara
+is a healthy and busy town, not troubled in the least with mosquitoes in
+winter and spring. The great business of the town is the transporting
+and dressing of marble; and the principal establishments the studios of
+the artists, where statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are
+sculptured and exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior
+walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is
+<span class = "pagenum">223</span>
+<a name = "page223" id = "page223"> </a>
+<!-- png 273 -->
+nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies of
+the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found chiefly in
+the mines of Fantiscritti.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">78¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">26¾</span>
+<a name = "massa" id = "massa"><b>MASSA</b></a> is about a mile from the
+railway, by a good road, at the foot of Mt. Castagnola, which, with the
+still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. Tambura and Rotondo, protect it
+from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one
+of the winter stations on the Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the
+vigorous orange trees in the gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are
+many pleasant walks, both on the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel
+Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, although a plain house, is clean, and is
+kept by kindly people. The town is quiet; there are a few workers and
+dealers in marble, but the principal occupation is agricultural. The
+ducal palace in the square was once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi,
+Napoleon’s sister. Valuable marble quarries. Pop. 5000.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">84¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">20¾</span>
+<a name = "pietrasanta" id = "pietrasanta"><b>PIETRASANTA</b></a>, pop.
+1000. <i>Inn:</i> Europa. A&nbsp;poor town, with marble works near the
+station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On the first
+large house, right hand of square, a&nbsp;tablet informs us that in it
+Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovi
+contratti per la facciata di S.&nbsp;Lorenzo in Firenze.”
+S.&nbsp;Martino (13th cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found
+in nearly all the churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance
+opposite the Campanile (1380) is a font about the same period. In the
+interior of the church are handsome marble columns, confessionals,
+pulpit, and font. The domes and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is
+the Uffizio Municipale, with, in front, a&nbsp;statue to
+Leopold&nbsp;II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino (14th cent.), all
+within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood are quicksilver
+and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble quarries.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Viareggio.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">90¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">14¼</span>
+<a name = "viareggio" id = "viareggio"><b>VIAREGGIO</b></a>, pop.
+20,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine; Commercio.
+A&nbsp;favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa and
+Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast on
+this beach. A&nbsp;few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake
+Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about
+6&nbsp;m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pisa.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 275 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 224</span>
+<a name = "map224" id = "map224" href = "images/map224.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map224thumb.png" width = "320" height = "482"
+alt = "plan of Pisa" title = "PISA"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pisa: Piazza del Duomo. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span>
+<span class = "miles from">105</span>
+<a name = "pisa" id = "pisa"><b>PISA</b></a>, pop. 26,300.
+<i>Hotels:</i> On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’ Arno Regio, the
+*Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to station, right hand,
+the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington;
+<span class = "pagenum">224</span>
+<a name = "page224" id = "page224"> </a>
+<!-- png 274 -->
+left hand, Commerce. Behind the H.&nbsp;Bretagna is the Anglican church.
+On the left side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office.
+Cab-stand at the station. <i>Fares.</i>&mdash;From the station to the
+cathedral, with from one to two passengers, 1&nbsp;fr.; from three to
+four, 1&nbsp;fr. 15 sous. The hour, 2&nbsp;fr. From the station go
+straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to the Arno, where cross the
+bridge and walk down the river to the fifth street right, the Via Santa
+Maria, crossed by an arch at the commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads
+directly to the <a name = "pisa_piazza_duomo" id =
+"pisa_piazza_duomo"><b>Piazza del Duomo</b></a>, containing, in a row,
+the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery, and immediately
+behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes considerably effaced, yet
+valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of the 14th and 15th
+centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "pisa_cathedral" id =
+"pisa_cathedral"><i>Cathedral</i></a>, commenced in 1063 by the Greek
+architect Buschetto, was completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with
+a range of blind arches decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open
+arcades, similarly constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the
+beautiful bronze doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the
+southern entrance by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of
+figures in delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and
+various other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage,
+fruits, and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and
+of the transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high.
+A&nbsp;double row of columns runs up the nave, and a single row along
+the transepts and choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the
+rest (14) of fine marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on
+them are semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and
+black marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars
+are by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite
+each other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the
+transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the
+fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the
+ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a
+colossal Mosaic by G.&nbsp;Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the
+paintings are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs.
+Here also are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by
+Beccafumi, and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma.
+Upon a pier of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on
+the corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del
+Vaga. In the right
+<span class = "pagenum">225</span>
+<a name = "page225" id = "page225"> </a>
+<!-- png 276 -->
+transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb of
+S.&nbsp;Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga
+and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy
+Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but
+have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while
+a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp
+suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are
+synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pisa: Leaning Tower. Baptistery.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "pisa_leaning_tower" id =
+"pisa_leaning_tower"><i>Campanile</i></a> or leaning tower is a
+cylindrical edifice built of square blocks of compact marble, and
+consisting of a well-designed solid basement, 159 ft. in circumference,
+with walls 13 ft. thick, above which rise six open arcaded galleries,
+supported by 200 granite and marble columns. Over the sixth arcade rises
+a round tower 27 ft. high. The entire height is 183 ft., the mean
+diameter of the main portion 52 ft., and the deflection from the
+perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of the cornice, which projects
+32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174, and finished 1350. The ascent
+is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide, formed in the wall; but not fewer
+than three are allowed to visit the top at the same time. Fee for the
+party, 1&nbsp;fr. The keeper lives in one of the small houses (No. 14)
+nearly opposite.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "pisa_baptistery" id =
+"pisa_baptistery"><b>Baptistery</b></a> is a circular building, 361½
+feet in circumference, surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and
+constructed after the designs of Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153
+and finished towards the end of the 14th cent. Above the third storey
+rises the dome, intersected by long lines of very prominent fretwork,
+meeting in a cornice near the top, and terminating in a small dome
+crowned with a statue of St. John the Baptist, the titular saint of all
+such edifices. In the interior eight large Sardinian granite columns and
+four marble piers support twelve arches, over which rises the tier of
+piers and arches which support the cupola, within conical, but
+externally hemispherical. In the centre stands an octagon marble font
+for the baptism of adults, with four circular compartments at opposite
+sides for the baptism of infants. The beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da
+Pisa (1260) is ornamented with bas-reliefs, and supported on seven
+columns.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Pisa: Cemetery.</span>
+Behind the Baptistery is the <a name = "pisa_campo_santo" id =
+"pisa_campo_santo"><i>Campo Santo</i></a>, founded about the year 1189
+by the Archbishop Ubaldo. It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad,
+and surrounded by a broad gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and
+62 mullioned arches with quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The
+inner side of the wall is covered with paintings in fresco, begun about
+the year 1300, and continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on
+entering is the
+<span class = "pagenum">226</span>
+<a name = "page226" id = "page226"> </a>
+<!-- png 277 -->
+monument of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right
+commence frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the
+patron saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the
+second door illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the
+Theban wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell.
+Above 38, the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of
+Death,&mdash;filling those living in pleasure with horror, but those in
+sorrow with joy. Now follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the
+three chapels, and frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection,
+and Ascension. On the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by
+Puccio Orvieto, 14th cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament.
+On the west wall is hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be
+drawn across the mouth of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria
+broke through in 1290, burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the
+chain to Genoa. A&nbsp;few years ago, according to the inscription, the
+Genoese returned it to Pisa. On the wall, under the chain, is the
+monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and, a&nbsp;little to the right,
+a&nbsp;Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty space within the
+cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the city. It is filled,
+to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the Holy Land by the
+galleys of Pisa.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "pisa_sta_maria" id =
+"pisa_sta_maria">
+Pisa: S. Maria della Spina.</a></span>
+Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on
+the bank of the Arno (a&nbsp;low square church)&mdash;an excellent
+specimen of the Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent.
+The churches of St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St.
+Andrea, and St. Francisco, contain a few curious and some good
+paintings, with other antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed
+to contain the bones of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers,
+Lanfreducci, Seta, and Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice.</p>
+
+<p>Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the
+Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and
+well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian,
+considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next
+page).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Leghorn.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 278 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 226</span>
+<a name = "map226" id = "map226" href = "images/map226.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map226thumb.png" width = "339" height = "560"
+alt = "plan of Leghorn" title = "LEGHORN"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p>Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance
+11¼ miles. <a name = "leghorn" id = "leghorn"><b>Leghorn</b></a> (pop.
+90,000). <i>Hotels:</i> In the Piazza del Cantiere, the Nord, fronting
+the harbour; and close by, in the Via Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne;
+New York; France; and at No. 59 of the same street, Il Giappone.
+Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi. Presbyterian church, No.
+3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat from the hotel to the
+steamer, 2&nbsp;fr. Leghorn has many handsome and well-paved streets;
+among the best of them is the
+<span class = "pagenum">227</span>
+<a name = "page227" id = "page227"> </a>
+<!-- png 279 -->
+Via Vittorio Emanuele, which, commencing at the head of the harbour from
+the Piazza dei Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza
+d’Armi, with the cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its
+continuation, on the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends
+to a large building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is
+the grand reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by
+an aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing
+“Humphrey Clinker,” and was buried in the English cemetery.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "leghorn_steamers_corsica" id =
+"leghorn_steamers_corsica">
+Leghorn: Steamers for Corsica.</a></span>
+Steam-boats every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in
+Sardinia, and for Marseilles and Genoa.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "pisa_to_florence" id =
+"pisa_to_florence">
+Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, <a href =
+"#map199">page 199</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles to">62</span>
+<a name = "pisa_stn" id = "pisa_stn"><b>PISA.</b></a> The direct line to
+Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance, 49 miles. Time, 2 hours and
+10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca route is <a name =
+"san_giuliano" id = "san_giuliano"><i>San Giuliano</i></a>, with its
+thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84° Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock
+at the foot of the wooded Monti Pisani. The waters “are used internally
+in chronic hepatic complaints, in gravel, and some renal affections; in
+dysentery, and dyspepsia attended with pain and vomiting.”
+&mdash;Madden’s <i>Health Resorts</i>. After Giuliano, we reach the
+Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the left side of the
+Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive embankments.</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">15</span>
+<span class = "miles to">47</span>
+<a name = "lucca" id = "lucca"><b>LUCCA</b></a> (pop. 22,000). Each
+portmanteau taken from the station to the cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs
+await passengers, 1&nbsp;fr.; portmanteau, 4 sous.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sights.</i>&mdash;A walk on the ramparts, 3&nbsp;miles in
+circumference, and a visit to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To
+the south of Lucca, near the station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459
+arches.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "lucca_hotels" id = "lucca_hotels"><i>Hotels:</i></a>
+Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a&nbsp;first
+class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona,
+near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence
+to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H.&nbsp;Corona.
+Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3&nbsp;fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in
+the Piazza dell’Erba, off the P.&nbsp;Napoleone. Lucca is one of the
+most ancient cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to
+<span class = "pagenum">228</span>
+<a name = "page228" id = "page228"> </a>
+<!-- png 280 -->
+the Etrurians, but was taken from them by the Ligurians, and colonised
+by the Romans about 170 years before the birth of our Lord. The most
+remarkable event that distinguished it in ancient times was the
+interview which took place here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and
+which attracted to the town half the senate and nobility of Rome. After
+the fall of the Roman empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own,
+from one of whose race, Azon&nbsp;II., of the house of Este, the royal
+families of Brunswick and England are descended. The town is in the form
+of the letter O, surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable
+drive. At the railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the
+principal sights.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lucca_pal_ducale" id =
+"lucca_pal_ducale">
+Lucca: Palazzo Ducale.<br>
+Picture-Gallery. Cathedral.</a></span>
+One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale, now the
+Palazzo Provinciale, a&nbsp;vast and substantial edifice, built in 1578,
+enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the
+post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The
+<a name = "lucca_gallery" id = "lucca_gallery"><b>Picture-Gallery</b></a>,
+open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2, although small,
+contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the first room is a
+Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the Creator with Mary
+Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo, in 1515 and 1509.
+Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the Sala da Ballo,
+painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are a Madonna by
+Perugini; a&nbsp;full length portrait of Napoleon’s sister Elisa; and
+two ancient pictures on wood&mdash;a Nativity, and a Christ with Saints.
+The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were occupied by
+Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by Bartolini
+(1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone,
+by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to another open
+space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between the two
+churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera della chiesa;”
+where, among other things, are preserved <i>La Croce dei Pisani</i>, an
+elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B.&nbsp;Baroni in 1350, and
+the gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the
+Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is
+expected. The Cathedral or Duomo of <a name = "lucca_cathedral" id =
+"lucca_cathedral"><b>St. Martino</b></a> was commenced by Anselmo
+Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope Alexander&nbsp;II.,
+blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England. The façade,
+with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in 1204, the choir
+in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of the portico are
+subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on the left is a
+Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">229</span>
+<a name = "page229" id = "page229"> </a>
+<!-- png 281 -->
+<p>Loftiness and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the
+interior of this church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca,
+with the exception of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The
+windows are small and filled with modern glass, excepting the three at
+the eastern end, which are by P.&nbsp;Ugolino. All the pictures are
+covered, excepting on Sundays and feast-days, but the custodian can
+always be found in the sacristy, who shows the church for a franc.
+Commencing at the first altar, right hand from main entrance, Nativity,
+by Passignano; second, Adoration of the Magi, P.&nbsp;Zucchero; third,
+Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth, Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth,
+Resurrection. In south transept, west side, is the monument to Pietro da
+Noceto, one of the many admirable works by Matteo Civitali, to whose
+genius the church owes its best sculpture, which he contributed during a
+period of nearly thirty years from 1472. The angels on the altar in the
+Chapel del Sagramento, opposite the monument, as well as the whole of
+the chaste white marble altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining
+the sacramental chapel, are by him. On the left side of the high altar
+is the altar to “Christo Liberatori,” by G.&nbsp;Bologna, and adjoining,
+La Cappella del Santuario, where again we find the beautiful handiwork
+of Civitali displayed on the altar and reliquaries on both sides. The
+<b>Madonna</b> which forms the reredos of the altar is by Fra
+Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the
+sacristy, are the two gems in the church. Just outside the Cappella del
+Santuario is a recumbent figure of <i>Ilaria del Carretto</i> by Jacopo
+della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly mutilated, yet a beautiful
+imitation of the repose of nature transferred to statuary.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Lucca: The Tempietto.<br>
+S. Giovanni.<br>
+S. Frediano.</span>
+In the north aisle is the <a name = "lucca_tempietto" id =
+"lucca_tempietto"><b>Tempietto</b></a>, a&nbsp;small octagonal chapel
+standing apart, in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or
+9th cent., said to have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of
+an angel. The fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the
+Duomo represents him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times
+a year. The embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure
+of S.&nbsp;Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit
+opposite, are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is <a name =
+"lucca_san_giovanni" id = "lucca_san_giovanni"><b>San Giovanni</b></a>,
+founded in the 12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly
+relieved by the coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone
+by the western corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the
+Piazza and Church of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty
+façade composed of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the
+same direction towards the ramparts, we reach <a name =
+"lucca_san_frediano" id = "lucca_san_frediano"><b>S. <ins class =
+"correction" title = "text reads ‘Frediana’">Frediano</ins></b></a>, of
+the
+<span class = "pagenum">230</span>
+<a name = "page230" id = "page230"> </a>
+<!-- png 282 -->
+7th cent., with a large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just
+within it, on each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an
+ancient circular font about 9&nbsp;feet in diameter, beautifully carved
+in relief by Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is
+against the wall, and is by N.&nbsp;Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The
+second chapel on the right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness
+of Lucca, in a sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east
+side) is a coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall
+of the same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the
+assumption of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel
+covered with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the
+transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had
+been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised
+by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an
+entombment. Opposite is S.&nbsp;Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying
+by prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi.
+Above is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God
+surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the
+Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+The Baths of Lucca.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "lucca_baths" id = "lucca_baths">
+The Baths of Lucca.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+17 miles from Lucca. See <a href = "#map199">Map, page 199</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through pleasing
+scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right side of the
+river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of the Maddalena,
+consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of Borgo being
+disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the bank to the
+centre of 60°. It is only 4&nbsp;feet wide, and, although built in 1322,
+is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood uninjured the great
+flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three hours a height till
+then unknown, and swept away with irresistible fury all the other
+bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and embankments. The two
+villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of the Baths of Lucca are
+<i>Il Serraglio</i> on the left bank, and <i>Corsena</i> on the right
+bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On the hill behind
+Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By the side of the
+Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and about 100 feet
+above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A&nbsp;short way westward,
+overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse, and
+immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the exclusive
+use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses, is the Bagno
+Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the Bagno San
+Giovanni. <i>Hotels:</i> the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and Pension, next
+the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the opposite side of
+the river, in Il Serraglio,
+<span class = "pagenum">231</span>
+<a name = "page231" id = "page231"> </a>
+<!-- png 283 -->
+are the New York, and the Corona, plainer houses. A&nbsp;mile up the
+river by the right bank, along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is
+another village, which is also included in the Baths of Lucca, the
+<b>Bagno alla Villa,</b> the most beautifully situated of the three.
+<i>Hotels:</i> At the entrance of the village, the H.&nbsp;and
+P.&nbsp;Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on which the bathing
+establishment is situated, the H.&nbsp;and P. du Pavilion and the
+Anglican chapel. Near them the H.&nbsp;and P. du Parc. The pension price
+in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. <i>Cabs:</i>
+First hour, 2&nbsp;fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to
+let. From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance.
+The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very
+similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse,
+85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal
+ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda and
+magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter being
+15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of La
+Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but their
+principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them
+sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a&nbsp;great deal
+of the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with
+more reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the
+charming walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the
+greater part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is
+beautiful&mdash;steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks
+rise on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend
+their way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points
+of various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to
+October.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pistoja. Cathedral. Baptistery.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PISA</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">40½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">21½</span>
+<a name = "pistoja" id = "pistoja"><b>PISTOJA</b></a> (pop. 13,600).
+<i>Hotels:</i> Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both in the Piazza Cino.
+Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1&nbsp;fr.; portmanteau, 20 c. Next
+the H.&nbsp;Inghilterra is the church of S.&nbsp;Giovanni, erected at
+the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and white
+marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be by
+Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza
+Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the
+lofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta,” which rises above all the
+other buildings. By the side of it is the <a name = "pistoja_cathedral"
+id = "pistoja_cathedral"><b>Duomo</b></a>, a&nbsp;plain edifice, built
+in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by
+A.&nbsp;della Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and
+Giovanni Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to
+the jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing
+an assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is
+represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students.
+<span class = "pagenum">232</span>
+<a name = "page232" id = "page232"> </a>
+<!-- png 284 -->
+The altar of the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid
+silver. It is generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man
+will uncover it for 2&nbsp;fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150
+years (1314-1466), and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s
+work of that time in Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in
+its execution. Below the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the
+<a name = "pistoja_baptistery" id =
+"pistoja_baptistery"><i>Baptistery</i></a>, begun 1339 (by C.&nbsp;di
+Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate layers of black
+and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle. The font is
+quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the 13th cent.
+Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit. Adjoining is the
+Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale Civile), constructed
+in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and soffits of the massive
+arches are covered with the armorial bearings of the former mayors of
+the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are still the stone-seats
+and tables where they sat in judgment.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "pistoja_pal_municipale" id =
+"pistoja_pal_municipale">
+Pistoja: Pal. Municipale.<br>
+S. Andrea.</a></span>
+Opposite is the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down
+the street, the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured
+terra-cotta frieze. Near the two hotels is the church of
+<i>S.&nbsp;Maria dell’ Umilta</i>, built in 1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In
+the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari. Near it is <a name =
+"pistoja_st_andrea" id = "pistoja_st_andrea"><i>S.&nbsp;Andrea</i></a>
+(12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the entrance door, and in the
+interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured by Giovanni da Pisa,
+1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates this piece of elaborate
+sculpture, when it is seen to still greater advantage. Between the two
+last churches is <i>S.&nbsp;Filippo da Neri</i>, with such a quantity of
+frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory, that even the visitor
+on entering feels himself among clouds also. In the Piazza Prato is
+S.&nbsp;Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar pieces. In the
+centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas de Weston,
+Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived from the name
+of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a very early
+date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia, <span
+class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> 62, and the precise spot where he is
+said to have fallen is marked by a tower.</p>
+
+<p>Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages
+at Pistoja.</p>
+
+<p>11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is <a name = "prato" id =
+"prato"><b>Prato</b></a>, pop. 13,100. <i>Hotels:</i> Giardinetto,
+Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and defended by a castle built
+by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior of the Cathedral are faced
+with white and green marble in bands. The nave has columns of
+serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by Filippo Lippi, and
+in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365).</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">233</span>
+<a name = "page233" id = "page233"> </a>
+<!-- png 285 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence" id = "florence">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence.</span></a></p>
+
+<!-- png 287 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 234</span>
+<a name = "map234" id = "map234" href = "images/map234.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map234thumb.png" width = "463" height = "387"
+alt = "plan of Florence" title = "FLORENCE"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p>61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m.
+from Turin, 82&nbsp;m. from Bologna, 134&nbsp;m. from Piacenza,
+196&nbsp;m. from Rome, and 60¼&nbsp;m. from Leghorn.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Hotels and Pensions.</span></p>
+
+<p><b>FLORENCE</b>, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. <a name =
+"florence_hotels" id = "florence_hotels"><i>Hotels and
+Apartments:</i></a> On the right or north side of the Arno, the Grand
+Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la Ville; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington;
+Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the
+Paix, the Russie. All these hotels have a south exposure, and are
+greatly run after in winter. Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day,
+according to the room. The following charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are
+situated in the new streets a little way back from the Arno, and near
+the Cascine or Park of Florence (north-west side of plan):&mdash;Hôtel
+and Pension Corona d’Italia, Via Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles
+Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della
+Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are also furnished apartments at from
+250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel and Pension Couronne d’Angleterre,
+Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the
+Universo in the Corso Vitt. Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town,
+and charging rather less than the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via
+Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of
+same street, Hôtel Bonciani, with front also to the Piazza S.&nbsp;Maria
+Novella. Near the bridge La Santa Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are
+the Europe and Nord. In the Via Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in
+the Via della Spada the Ville de Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in
+the Piazza S.&nbsp;Maria Novella (near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva;
+Bonciani, with furnished apartments; and by the side of the station, La
+Posta and Rebecchino. In the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses
+for Sesto Fiorentino and a large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for
+visiting the sights, and not expensive (from 7 to 9&nbsp;frs. per day),
+are the H.&nbsp;d’Espagne above the Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile
+d’Italie in the&nbsp;V. Calzaioli. Pension Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le
+Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in which also single rooms are
+let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di
+S.&nbsp;Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension Rudolfo, Via della Scala.
+Furnished apartments all over the town. Just outside the Porta Romana,
+in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments cost from 250 to 400 frs.
+the month. The most expensive as well as the most fashionable are those
+situated on the right bank of the Arno; but in the streets a little way
+back from the Arno apartments can be had for less. It is of very great
+importance in winter to have
+<span class = "pagenum">234</span>
+<a name = "page234" id = "page234"> </a>
+<!-- png 286 -->
+bedrooms with a south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold
+even on a sunny day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very
+moderate rates in restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both
+in the Via Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via
+Calzaioli, between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti
+and Co., 5 Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well.</p>
+
+<p><i>Protestant Churches.</i>&mdash;American Church, 17 Via dei
+Serragli; American Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal,
+5 Via del Maglio; Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "florence_cabs" id = "florence_cabs"><i>Cab
+Tariff.</i></a>&mdash;The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> to 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>),
+1&nbsp;fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1&nbsp;f. 30&nbsp;c.; every
+successive half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c.
+Omnibuses run between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates.
+Fare, 10 c.; Sundays, 15&nbsp;c.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_hints" id = "florence_hints">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: Hints and Directions.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of
+the Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best
+plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria,
+and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little
+guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and
+statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published in
+English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for
+Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works,
+<i>Walks in Florence</i> by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister
+and Co., London, and volume 3 of <i>Hare’s Cities of Italy</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander
+into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure
+by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately,
+are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the
+Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the
+<a href = "#uffizi_tribuna">Tribuna</a> (p.&nbsp;238), containing the
+concentrated excellence of both galleries in painting and antique
+sculpture. Besides what are in the Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures
+in the Pitti, of which the most famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’
+Educazione di Giove (see <a href = "#pitti_jupiter">p.&nbsp;244</a>).
+Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo
+(see <a href = "#florence_sagrestia_nuova">p.&nbsp;265</a>), but the
+best collection of his works is in the <i>National Museum</i> (see
+<a href = "#nat_mus_michelangelo">p.&nbsp;261</a>). His David is in the
+<i>Accademia delle Belle Arti</i> (see <a href =
+"#florence_fine_arts">p.&nbsp;272</a>). In the National Museum is the
+best collection of sculpture by great <i>Italian Artists</i>, such as
+Michael Angelo, G.&nbsp;Bologna, Luca and Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti;
+Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano,
+<span class = "pagenum">235</span>
+<a name = "page235" id = "page235"> </a>
+<!-- png 288 -->
+Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in
+the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of
+the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or
+Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but
+particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached
+to St. Lorenzo), S.&nbsp;Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are
+open from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till
+six. The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their
+cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the <a href =
+"#florence_brancacci">Brancacci chapel</a> of Del Carmine (page 252).
+Best painting by Cimabue, a&nbsp;Madonna, executed in 1240, in the
+<a href = "#sta_maria_rucellai">Rucellai chapel</a> of S.&nbsp;Maria
+Novella (page 268). Best frescoes by D.&nbsp;Ghirlandaio on the chancel
+or recess occupied by the high altar in <a href =
+"#sta_maria_ghirlandaio">S.&nbsp;Maria Novella</a> (page 268). Best
+frescoes of A. del Sarto in the <a href = "#annunziata_narthex">narthex
+of the Annunziata</a> (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the first
+and second chapels of <a href = "#sta_croce_giotto">S.&nbsp;Croce</a>
+(page 260). Of the palaces the best are the <a href =
+"#florence_pal_vecchio">Palazzo Vecchio</a> (page 274), <a href =
+"#florence_pal_strozzi">Palazzo Strozzi</a> (page 275), and the <a href
+= "#florence_pal_corsini">Palazzo Corsini</a> (page 275). The best view
+of Florence is from the top of the dome; the ascent is very easy. The
+pleasantest drive, with views, is to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the
+Porta Romana and the Boulevards Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo
+(<a href = "#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">page 249</a>), studded with
+handsome villas.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Piazza della Signoria. Loggia dell’ Orcagna.</span></p>
+
+<p>At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the
+<i>Ponte Vecchio</i>, differs from all the rest in having shops on each
+side. By referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the
+Pitti Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this
+bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S.&nbsp;Maria,
+leading to the <a name = "florence_piazza_signoria" id =
+"florence_piazza_signoria"><b>Piazza della Signoria</b></a>. From the
+north-west corner of the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the
+Via Calzaioli, leads to the <i>Piazza del Duomo</i>; from the eastern
+corner the street called the Borgo de’ Greci leads into the <a name =
+"florence_piazza_sta_croce" id = "florence_piazza_sta_croce"><b>Piazza
+Santa Croce</b></a>. It is of great importance to understand the
+relative position of these three squares. The chief feature of the
+Piazza della Signoria is the <a href =
+"#florence_pal_vecchio"><i>Palazzo Vecchio</i></a>, a&nbsp;fine specimen
+of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274). On either side
+of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis and Philemon, by
+Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules and Cacus, also
+by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called the <a name =
+"florence_loggia_orcagna" id = "florence_loggia_orcagna"><b>Loggia dell’
+Orcagna</b></a>, from the name of the architect, or dei Lanzi, from the
+name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building. It was usual in
+the early period of the Republic to provide a space near the
+government-house where the people
+<span class = "pagenum">236</span>
+<a name = "page236" id = "page236"> </a>
+<!-- png 289 -->
+could meet and take part in public affairs; and for this purpose this
+open gallery was built opposite the Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376.
+Five steps, running along the front, lead up to the platform, covered by
+a vaulted roof, supported on four arches, resting on three columns
+terminating in beautiful capitals of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy
+lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament the entrance. The lion on the left
+is by F.&nbsp;Vacca, 17th cent.; the other, on the right, as well as the
+six statues of Sabine priestesses, along the inner wall, beautiful in
+attitude and drapery, are antiques, and were brought from the Villa
+Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under each arch, stand three separate
+groups, by celebrated masters of the 16th cent. To the right is the Rape
+of the Sabines, by G.&nbsp;Bologna, in 1583. Originally this group was
+intended to represent Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. To the left the
+statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head of the sorceress Medusa, by
+B.&nbsp;Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of power and animation,
+but the head and body of the Medusa are represented streaming with blood
+with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith and Holofernes in
+bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of Polixena,
+a&nbsp;marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an antique
+group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of
+Patrocles&mdash;restored by S.&nbsp;Ricci. Next it is the marble group,
+by G.&nbsp;Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this
+Piazza is also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of
+Bandinelli), 1571. It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over
+by a statue of Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses.
+Adjoining is a superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse
+is admirable. To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione
+(considered to have been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining
+the Loggia dei Lanzi are the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi,” the
+great storehouse of art treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along
+the basement floor, extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari
+(1560-74), ornamented with 24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On
+the same side as the Loggia is the Post-Office (Reale Poste).
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_national_library" id
+= "florence_national_library">
+Florence: National Library.</a></span>
+On the opposite side, at the second door from the end, is the entrance
+to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six doors farther down, the entrance
+to the <i>Biblioteca Nazionale</i>, with about 250,000 vols. and 14,000
+MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be had for consultation in the
+reading-room by writing the name on a slip of paper. The National
+Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the Palatine Library
+collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library collected by
+Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the colonnade
+leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.</p>
+
+<!-- png 290 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 237</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">PLAN of the UFFIZI &amp; PITTI
+GALLERIES</span><br>
+<a name = "map237" id = "map237" href = "images/map237.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map237thumb.png" width = "462" height = "202"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">237</span>
+<a name = "page237" id = "page237"> </a>
+<!-- png 291 -->
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "florence_uffizi" id =
+"florence_uffizi">
+Galleria degli Uffizi.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.’s near
+the portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern
+gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous
+collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar
+collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno
+by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by
+the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both
+collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the
+second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at
+the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into
+the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi,
+and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the
+western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go
+wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds,
+fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a
+small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes
+in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to
+enter the Pitti galleries, <i>ascend</i>, but to go out, descend.
+Downstairs, outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli
+gardens.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "uffizi_vestibules" id =
+"uffizi_vestibules">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: Uffizi
+Gallery&mdash;Vestibules&mdash;Corridors.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those
+who wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the
+galleries may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first
+vestibule are Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and
+sacrifices, and busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo&nbsp;I.,
+Francis&nbsp;I., and of others of the Medici. Second vestibule, more
+Roman statuary, and an inimitable Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole
+expressing admirably the growling ire kindling in an irritated animal.
+Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold, spirited, and true to nature. The horse,
+said to have belonged to the Niobes group, does not bear close
+examination.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "uffizi_corridors" id = "uffizi_corridors">We now enter the
+eastern corridor</a>, 178 yards long, with the ceiling painted in
+arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable specimens of
+ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and members of the
+imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung a valuable and
+interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff gilded
+Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a&nbsp;Madonna by
+Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St.
+Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A&nbsp;marked improvement in
+colour and grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane,
+<span class = "pagenum">238</span>
+<a name = "page238" id = "page238"> </a>
+<!-- png 292 -->
+by Giotto, pupil of Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra.
+Angelico; No. 24 a Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by
+P.&nbsp;Uccello; and No. 61 a Crucifixion by Lippi.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery.&mdash;Tuscan School.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls
+where the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as
+is shown on the plan, the <a name = "uffizi_tuscan" id =
+"uffizi_tuscan"><b>Scuola Toscana</b></a>, contained in three rooms, and
+consisting of 165 paintings, by M.&nbsp;Albertinelli, A. and
+C.&nbsp;Allori, B. Angelico, M.&nbsp;A. Anselmi. B.&nbsp;Bandinelli,
+Fra. Bartolommeo, G.&nbsp;Biliverti, S. Botticelli, A.&nbsp;Bronzino. F.
+Cambi, J.&nbsp;Casentino, Cigoli, P. di Cosimo, L. di Credi,
+F.&nbsp;Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P.&nbsp;Francesca, M.&nbsp;A.
+Franciabigio. A.&nbsp;L. Gentil, D. and R.&nbsp;Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio,
+G.&nbsp;S. Giovanni, B.&nbsp;Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra
+F.&nbsp;Lippi. O. Marinari, Masaccio, T.&nbsp;Manzuoli, G. da Milano,
+F.&nbsp;Morandini. G. Pagani, M.&nbsp;Pasti, S. Pieri,
+A.&nbsp;Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G.&nbsp;Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il Rosso,
+G.&nbsp;F. Rustici.&nbsp;V. Salimbeni, C.&nbsp;Salviati, A. del Sarto,
+L.&nbsp;Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R.&nbsp;Vanni, O. Vannini,
+G.&nbsp;Vasari, Dom. Veneziano, A.&nbsp;Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci,
+Volterrano. F.&nbsp;Zucchero. The earliest painters are in the inner
+room. Among the most remarkable of them are, B.&nbsp;Angelico, 1294. A.
+Botticelli, 1286, a&nbsp;large picture, and 1289 and 1299. Fra.
+F.&nbsp;Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297. G. da Milano, 1293,
+in ten compartments. A.&nbsp;Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D. Veneziano,
+1305.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle hall&mdash;Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265;
+Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F.&nbsp;Lippi, 1257 and
+1268; Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da
+Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture.</p>
+
+<p>First hall&mdash;Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261,
+one of his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168;
+Leonardo da Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery.&mdash;Tribuna.</span></p>
+
+<p>Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the <a name =
+"uffizi_tribuna" id = "uffizi_tribuna"><b>Tribuna</b></a>, a&nbsp;plain
+8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B.&nbsp;Buondelmonti, and
+painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five of
+the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the
+choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F.&nbsp;Barocci, Fra.
+Bartolommeo, A. and L.&nbsp;Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino,
+A.&nbsp;Durer, Guercino, L.&nbsp;Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco,
+B.&nbsp;Luini, Mantegna, Michael Angelo, L. d’Olanda, P.&nbsp;Perugino,
+Raphael, G.&nbsp;Reni, Giulio Romano, Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone,
+Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck, P.&nbsp;Veronese, and D.&nbsp;Volterra.
+Facing the door is the <b>Venus de Medici</b>, 4 ft. 11 inches high,
+supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus, which, along
+<span class = "pagenum">239</span>
+<a name = "page239" id = "page239"> </a>
+<!-- png 293 -->
+with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the Villa Hadrian, in
+Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo&nbsp;III. The group of the Wrestlers,
+exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn, attributed to
+Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that remains of
+the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael Angelo. In the
+<i>Knife-Grinder</i>, the bony square form, the squalid countenance, and
+the short neglected hair, express admirably the character of a slave,
+still more plainly written on his coarse hard hands and wrinkled brow.
+Among the paintings, six are by Raphael&mdash;all gems. 1120 Portrait of
+a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the Fornarina, every hue as perfect
+as if transferred to the canvas by the sun&mdash;the expression is pert;
+1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well), attributed also to Franciabigio,
+beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in the Desert, colouring tawny, but
+admirable light and shade; 1129 the Madonna del Cardellino
+(nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works, painted when he was 22; 1131
+Portrait of Julius&nbsp;II., considered one of the finest portraits in
+the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti Gallery, and in the
+National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits by Raphael of this
+impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by Michael Angelo. This
+picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits powerful drawing with
+dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St. Francis and St. John,
+called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del Sarto&mdash;rich but
+subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the famous recumbent
+Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by Correggio&mdash;wonderful
+colouring.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery.&mdash;The Italian School.</span></p>
+
+<p>Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the Tribuna,
+and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French
+schools, and the collection of gems. <a name = "uffizi_italian" id =
+"uffizi_italian"><b>The Italian</b></a>, or more properly the
+Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano,
+D.&nbsp;Ambrogi. Baroccio, J.&nbsp;Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci,
+Canaletto, A.&nbsp;Caracci, G. da Carpi, G.&nbsp;Carpioni, B.
+Castiglione, M.&nbsp;Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio. Domenichino, B.
+and D.&nbsp;Dossi. C. Ferri, D.&nbsp;Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo,
+L.&nbsp;Giordano, Giorgione, F.&nbsp;Granacci, J. Guercino.
+J.&nbsp;Ligozzi, B. Luini. A.&nbsp;Magnasco, A. Mantegna,
+L.&nbsp;Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi, Moretto da Brescia. Palma
+(both), G.&nbsp;P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P.&nbsp;Piola, C. Procaccino,
+S.&nbsp;Pulzone. G. Reni, P.&nbsp;Reschi, S. Rosa. E.&nbsp;Savonazzi, J.
+Scarsellino, B.&nbsp;Schidone, F. Solimena. A.&nbsp;Tiarini, Tinelli,
+Tintoretto, Tiziano, A.&nbsp;Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P.&nbsp;Veronese, A.
+Vicentino. B.&nbsp;Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are
+Guido Reni, 998 Madonna; Parmigianino,
+<span class = "pagenum">240</span>
+<a name = "page240" id = "page240"> </a>
+<!-- png 294 -->
+1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; <ins class = "correction" title =
+"text reads ‘Coreggio’">Correggio</ins>, 1016 Child’s Head;
+A.&nbsp;Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap; Caravaggio, 1031
+Medusa.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery.&mdash;The Dutch, Flemish, and French
+Schools.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "uffizi_dutch" id = "uffizi_dutch"><i>The Dutch
+School</i></a> contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by
+Berkeyden, Borch, G.&nbsp;Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris,
+Netscher, O.&nbsp;Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with
+Holy Family. R.&nbsp;Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst,
+Van der Heyden, Van der Werf, Van Kessel.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Flemish and German Schools</i>, in two rooms, consist of 157
+paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of
+Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847
+Luther and Melancthon. C.&nbsp;Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape,
+considered the gem of this department. G.&nbsp;Dow, 786 Schoolmaster.
+A.&nbsp;Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765
+Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin
+Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best
+pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits.
+Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a
+Madonna.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "uffizi_french" id = "uffizi_french"><i>The French
+School</i></a> is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most
+noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of
+Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and
+afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame
+do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680
+Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery.&mdash;Room of Gems.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "uffizi_gems" id = "uffizi_gems"><i>The Room of
+Gems</i></a> has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to view
+statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made of
+lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise, and
+gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article,
+a&nbsp;casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of
+Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who
+presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of
+Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by
+Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here
+are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into
+the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into
+Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round
+altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth
+extracting a Thorn, a&nbsp;replica of the more famous statue in the
+Vatican; 145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept
+in the little office in the corner of this corridor).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">241</span>
+<a name = "page241" id = "page241"> </a>
+<!-- png 295 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery&mdash;The Venetian School.</span></p>
+
+<p><b>West Corridor</b> and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both
+sides, and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later
+date than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the
+<a name = "uffizi_venetian" id = "uffizi_venetian"><b>Venetian
+School</b></a>, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four contain
+portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind the
+Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins. The 82
+pictures which illustrate the <i>Venetian School</i> are by twenty-five
+great masters, T.&nbsp;Bassano, G. Bellini, P.&nbsp;Bordone, C. Caliari,
+D.&nbsp;Campagnole, Giorgione, L.&nbsp;Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto,
+Morone, G.&nbsp;Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo,
+A.&nbsp;Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P.&nbsp;Veneziano, C.
+Veronese, P.&nbsp;Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the
+immortal Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599)
+and of the Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere&nbsp;I.; of
+“Flora,” called his Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of
+Cosimo&nbsp;I. (614); and of Sansovino (596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy
+Family; 609 Battle between the Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine
+Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618 Sketch of Virgin and Child for his
+celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at Venice. P.&nbsp;Veronese, 589
+Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before Ahasuerus, and 636 The
+Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in Cana.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "uffizi_portraits" id =
+"uffizi_portraits">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery&mdash;<br>
+Portraits of Artists.</a></span>
+In the next two rooms are <b>Portraits of Artists</b> of all nations,
+from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338)
+of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall the
+celebrated <b>Medici Vase</b> (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in
+relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke
+Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with
+200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable
+are&mdash;288 Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228
+Rubens; 232 Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto;
+374, 384, and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni;
+546 Sir Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall
+of portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and
+stairs leading to the <a href = "#florence_pitti_gallery">Pitti
+Gallery</a>. See page 243. <b>Sala delle Iscrizione.</b>&mdash;The walls
+are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions, arranged in 12 divisions
+according to the subject. In this room are also some very interesting
+ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso of a Faun. <i>Cabinet
+of the Hermaphrodite.</i>&mdash;The most important piece of sculpture
+here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin, a&nbsp;valuable
+Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering. <i>Cabinet of
+Cameos.</i>&mdash;A very
+<span class = "pagenum">242</span>
+<a name = "page242" id = "page242"> </a>
+<!-- png 296 -->
+precious collection of ancient and modern cameos, statuettes, and
+enamels, including those presented by Sir William Currie in 1863.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "uffizi_niobe" id = "uffizi_niobe">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: Uffizi Gallery&mdash;The Hall of
+Niobe.</span></a></p>
+
+<p><i>Sala del Baroccio.</i>&mdash;Against the walls are beautiful
+tables in pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the
+room by Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall
+contains 172 pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in
+size and merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The
+Virgin interceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of
+Galileo; 191, by Sassoferrato, a&nbsp;Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s
+best works, “St. Galla Placida.” <b>Sala della Niobe.</b>&mdash;The hall
+of Niobe was built in 1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the
+famous statues supposed to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found
+near the Porta S.&nbsp;Paolo at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her
+children struck by thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the
+finest and most powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are
+round the cold, flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his
+separate pedestal, the illusion of design and composition is not only
+destroyed but individual criticism invited, a&nbsp;test all of them
+cannot bear. It is believed that originally they formed a group on the
+pediment of a temple. Niobe is rather large, nearly nine heads high, but
+the child she protects is without a fault in form. This group is of one
+piece of marble. All the others are in single figures. But the soul and
+source of all that is interesting in these statues is the wonderful
+figure of the wounded and dying youth, represented lying on his back,
+his legs just crossing each other, the left hand reclining on his
+breast, and his right arm slightly raised. As a statue, it commands the
+highest admiration, and as a chaste and powerful picture of death, the
+keenest sympathy. Behind the statue of Niobe is a very large picture by
+Rubens&mdash;Henri IV. at the battle of Ivry&mdash;a performance of
+wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite it, 147 The entry of
+Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a&nbsp;portrait; 152 Honthorst,
+Fortune-teller.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Uffizi Gallery&mdash;The Hall of Bronzes.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "uffizi_bronzes" id = "uffizi_bronzes"><i>Sala dei
+Bronzi.</i></a>&mdash;In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most
+remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso
+428 found near Leghorn&mdash;a torso is the trunk of a statue that has
+lost the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a
+youth, 5&nbsp;feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in
+1530. The pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A&nbsp;tablet containing a
+list of the Roman Decurions, dated <span class =
+"smallroman">A.D.</span> 223. <i>Galleria Feroni.</i>&mdash;In this room
+are arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of
+which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by&nbsp;C.
+<span class = "pagenum">243</span>
+<a name = "page243" id = "page243"> </a>
+<!-- png 297 -->
+Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop, by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by
+B.&nbsp;Schidone. Outside, in the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali
+Paoli, the Corsican patriot, by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113,
+Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the master of Claude Lorraine.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence. The Way from the Uffizi to the Pitti Galleries.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_connecting" id =
+"florence_connecting">
+The Connecting Galleries.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and
+stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of
+Francesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of
+“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The
+walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are
+covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting
+a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time.
+The corridor on the <b>Ponte Vecchio</b> crossing the Arno is occupied
+with a glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first
+part of the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous
+portraits of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage
+behind the Via Guicciardini) a&nbsp;vast collection of tapestry,
+executed in the 16th and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are
+those representing the festivities at the marriages of Henry&nbsp;II.
+with Catherine de’ Medici, and of Henry IV. with Maria de’ Medici,
+executed in 1560 after designs by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a
+short stair ascends to a room hung with pictures painted in chiaroscuro,
+or in one colour, by several of the old painters. From this another
+short stair leads to the long narrow gallery on the wall of the Boboli
+gardens. This gallery is hung with water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo
+Ligozzi, in 1695, representing with wonderful truthfulness, figures of
+birds, fishes, and plants. To these illustrations of natural history
+succeeds a series of miniature paintings of scenes in the life of our
+Lord. Now we come to the common stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti
+Gallery, and downwards to the door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next
+the gate leading into the Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a
+large vestibule, with a window looking into the gardens. The names of
+the Sale and Stanze (Halls and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room
+is provided with two of these catalogues, one in Italian and another in
+French. The halls are painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and
+rich tables of Florentine mosaic.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Pitti Gallery. Halls of Saturn and Jupiter.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_pitti_gallery" id =
+"florence_pitti_gallery">
+The Pitti Gallery.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The vestibule opens into the <i>Sala dell’ Illiado</i>, painted by
+Sabatelli in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity,” by
+Bartolini.
+<span class = "pagenum">244</span>
+<a name = "page244" id = "page244"> </a>
+<!-- png 298 -->
+Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his
+Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a&nbsp;Concert, is a remarkable
+picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is
+represented by some of his best portraits:&mdash;No. 200,
+Philip&nbsp;II. of Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215,
+Portrait; and 228, the Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by
+Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P. Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188,
+S. Rosa, his own Portrait; and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans,
+a&nbsp;Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod. Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady.
+230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy
+Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_saturn" id = "pitti_saturn"><i>Sala di
+Saturno.</i></a>&mdash;The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da
+Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:&mdash;151, Portrait of
+Pope Julius&nbsp;II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael.
+The others by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of
+(171) Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles&nbsp;I. of
+England and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a&nbsp;Deposition, by
+Perugino.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_jupiter" id = "pitti_jupiter"><i>Sala di
+Giove.</i></a>&mdash;Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of
+the room statue of “Victory,” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables
+in Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of
+Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then
+follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by
+A.&nbsp;del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the
+lower corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials
+S.&nbsp;A.&nbsp;R.&nbsp;O. No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of
+G.&nbsp;Benci, by Leonardo da Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Pitti Gallery&mdash;Halls of Mars and Apollo.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_mars" id = "pitti_mars"><i>Sala di
+Marte.</i></a>&mdash;Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael,
+Rubens, Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful
+paintings. The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael.
+94 is a Holy Family, also by him&mdash;called the “Impannata” or cloth
+window. No. 81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del
+Sarto. 82, Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by
+Rubens. 96, Judith, by C.&nbsp;Allori.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sala di Prometeo.</i>&mdash;The Mosaic Table in this room, by
+Giorgi, occupied him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo
+Lippi.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_apollo" id = "pitti_apollo"><i>Sala di
+Apollo.</i></a>&mdash;Raphael has three portraits in this room:&mdash;59
+and 61, M. and A.&nbsp;Doni; and 63, Leo X.&nbsp;Tiziano has some fine
+works:&mdash;No. 67, a&nbsp;Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and
+54, Aretino, the poet, is one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by
+Murillo. 58, by
+<span class = "pagenum">245</span>
+<a name = "page245" id = "page245"> </a>
+<!-- png 299 -->
+A. del Sarto, Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the
+same subject admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sala di Venere</i> (Venus).&mdash;Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and
+15 are two most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella
+Donna, by Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L.&nbsp;Cardi
+(Il Cigoli).</p>
+
+<p><i>Galleria Poccetti.</i>&mdash;Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon
+by Canova. Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns
+in oriental alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and
+admirably executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by
+Card. Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in
+ivory, amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stanza della Giustizia.</i>&mdash;Painted by Fedi. The beautiful
+ebony cabinet was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in
+this room is 408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir
+Peter Lely, by request of Ferdinand&nbsp;II. of Tuscany.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Pitti Gallery&mdash;Rooms of Flora, Ullisse, Giove.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_flora" id = "pitti_flora"><i>Stanza di
+Flora.</i></a>&mdash;In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called
+also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the
+Venus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to
+Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand&nbsp;II., by
+Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the
+Shepherds, by Tiziano.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stanza dei Putti.</i>&mdash;Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large
+picture by Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest&mdash;Diogenes
+throwing away his drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_ullisse" id = "pitti_ullisse"><i>Stanza d’
+Ullisse.</i></a>&mdash;Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait
+by Rubens of the favourite of James&nbsp;I., George Villiers, Duke of
+Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by
+Ligozzi. 297, Paul&nbsp;III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by
+Sal. Rosa.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stanza del Bagno.</i>&mdash;This, the bath-room, is tastefully
+fitted up with a mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique,
+and four marble statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "pitti_educazione" id = "pitti_educazione"><i>Stanza dell’
+educazione di Giove.</i></a>&mdash;Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna
+del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti
+Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by
+Velasquez. 248, a&nbsp;“Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra.
+Bartolommeo.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stanza della Stufa.</i>&mdash;The frescoes on the walls,
+representing the Four Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the
+nephew of Michael
+<span class = "pagenum">246</span>
+<a name = "page246" id = "page246"> </a>
+<!-- png 300 -->
+Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by
+Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique
+statues in niches, a&nbsp;column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain
+vase with a likeness of Napoleon&nbsp;I., and two justly celebrated
+bronze statues of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by
+Papi in 1849.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Boboli Gardens.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_boboli" id =
+"florence_boboli">
+The Boboli Gardens.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend
+to the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass
+through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and
+feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the
+office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the
+corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders
+and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses,
+encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more
+like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial
+grotto, with, in front, a&nbsp;group by&nbsp;V. Rossi, and a Venus by
+G.&nbsp;Bologna; and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael
+Angelo, intended for the monument of Julius&nbsp;II. at Rome, and
+presented to Cosmo&nbsp;I. by L.&nbsp;Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is
+the Amphitheatre; within the centre a granite obelisk and a large
+granite basin from Egypt, but brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the
+palace, near the Porta Romana, is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in
+marble by G.&nbsp;Bologna. In the flower-garden “del Cavaliere,” are two
+more fountains, with monkeys in bronze, by the same artist, and a small
+villa, from the top of which there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the
+highest part of the gardens, facing the palace, is a colossal statue of
+Dovizia (Abundance), commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil
+Dacca.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Pitti Palace.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "florence_pal_pitti" id = "florence_pal_pitti"><b>THE PITTI
+PALACE</b></a> was begun by Luca Pitti, a&nbsp;Florentine merchant, in
+1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished
+building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but
+not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659
+feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by
+the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed
+the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and
+Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto
+covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented
+with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in
+bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal
+<span class = "pagenum">247</span>
+<a name = "page247" id = "page247"> </a>
+<!-- png 301 -->
+Chapel. Above the altar is an ivory crucifix by G.&nbsp;Bologna. At the
+end of the portico, to the left, a&nbsp;door opens into the court, in
+which is the entrance into the room containing the splendid
+<i>Collection of Plate</i> by Benvenuto Cellini and Maso Finiguerra, and
+ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the famous artist in wax, has
+likewise some of his works here. The state apartments are sumptuously
+furnished.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Tribuna Galileo&mdash;Museum of Natural History.</span></p>
+
+<p>Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the
+house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A&nbsp;little farther
+up the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the</p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_natural_history" id =
+"florence_natural_history">
+Museo di Storia Naturale,</a></h5>
+
+<p>in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both
+open on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule
+is an old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3&nbsp;feet in diameter,
+probably by Ignazio Dante, a&nbsp;famous astronomer, brought to Florence
+by Cosmo&nbsp;I. He died in 1586. Upstairs is the <a name =
+"florence_galileo_tribuna" id = "florence_galileo_tribuna"><b>Museo, or
+Tribuna di Galileo</b></a>.<a name = "tag_3" id = "tag_3" href =
+"#note_3">*</a> Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the
+table. The statue of him is by A.&nbsp;Costoli. In the niche to the
+right are his telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by
+himself, and by which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the
+niche on the left are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical
+instruments belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657
+and dissolved in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince
+Leopold de’ Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating
+scenes in the life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of
+Galileo, taken from the body when it was removed to its present
+resting-place in the church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the
+excellent and comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections
+are admirably arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department
+contains the herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to
+have collected about the year 1563; of P.&nbsp;A. Micheli, collected
+about the year 1725; of Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842;
+of Labillardière, who accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New
+Holland; of R.&nbsp;Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the
+Englishman, P.&nbsp;B. Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this
+<span class = "pagenum">248</span>
+<a name = "page248" id = "page248"> </a>
+<!-- png 302 -->
+museum.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_anatomical" id =
+"florence_anatomical">
+Florence: Anatomical<br>
+Preparations in Wax.</a></span>
+But the most wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical
+preparations in wax, chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants,
+under the direction of Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great
+works of the great painters, they are executed with the most minute care
+and truthfulness to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the
+cuttle-fish or of the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the
+most delicate organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve
+rooms, entered from the shell department, by the door lettered
+“Ittiologia,” opening into the Zootomia.</p>
+
+<p class = "footnote">
+<a name = "note_3" id = "note_3" href = "#tag_3">*</a>
+The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any large niche. But
+the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the semicircular cavity at the
+extremity of a Roman basilica, where the judges sat. In the early ages
+of the church some of these buildings were given to the Christians for
+public worship, who still retained their secular name, and worshipped in
+them without consecration.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: House of Galileo.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_galileo_house" id =
+"florence_galileo_house">
+The House of Galileo,</a></h5>
+
+<p>at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by
+which, in 1536, Charles&nbsp;V. and Pope Leo&nbsp;X. entered Florence.
+An omnibus runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side
+there is a cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the
+omnibus for the <a href = "#florence_certosa">Certosa</a> (see page
+250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three broad roads&mdash;the
+lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the Certosa; the centre
+one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del Poggio Imperiale;
+while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first of a series of
+magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble terrace the Piazza
+Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio to the Royal
+Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the Instituto della
+Annunziata, a&nbsp;boarding-school for girls. From it ascend by the Via
+del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road to the
+right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the house
+in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which when
+blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was born
+in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a&nbsp;plain building, is
+indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep
+little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower
+(<a name = "florence_torre_gallo" id = "florence_torre_gallo">Torre del
+Gallo</a>) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations. It
+contains several relics of the great astronomer&mdash;a telescope,
+table, and chairs, a&nbsp;bust of him taken after death (il piu antico
+che si conosca), a&nbsp;pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by
+Salvatelli, a&nbsp;smaller portrait of him by P.&nbsp;Leoni, 1624. From
+the farmhouse
+<span class = "pagenum">249</span>
+<a name = "page249" id = "page249"> </a>
+<!-- png 303 -->
+a steep narrow road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza
+Michelangiolo and the Porta Romana.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Piazzale Michelangiolo. San Miniato.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_piaz_michelangiolo" id =
+"florence_piaz_michelangiolo">
+The Piazzale Michelangiolo.</a></h5>
+
+<p>There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk
+or drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of
+S.&nbsp;Miniato. They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the
+Arno, two bridges higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are
+distinctly seen from the Lung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on
+foot is, having crossed the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above
+the Ponte Vecchio), walk up the left bank of the Arno, passing the
+Piazza containing the fine marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff,
+by L.&nbsp;Bartolini, in 1835, and continue the walk up the river till
+arrival at a square tower in the Piazza della Molina, whence commence
+the ascent by the stairs and road the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it
+from the Porta Romana by the fine avenues the Viali Machiavelli and
+Galileo, bordered by trees and handsome villas, disclosing as they wind
+round the steep sides of the hills a succession of ever-varying views.
+The Piazzale Michelangiolo is a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the
+Arno, commanding a grand prospect, and adorned with five statues in
+bronze, copies by C.&nbsp;Papi of Michael Angelo’s famous works. To the
+right is the Viale Michelangiolo, the carriage road leading down to the
+Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso).
+Above the Piazzale, by the convent church of San Salvatore del Monte
+(built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the <a name = "florence_san_miniato" id =
+"florence_san_miniato"><b>Basilica of San Miniato</b></a>, one of the
+earliest (1013) as well as one of the most perfect structures in the
+Byzantine style. Internally it is 165 feet long by 70 wide, and is
+divided longitudinally into aisles by pillars of classical design. The
+façade is faulty. The tower was erected in 1519. The floor of the nave
+is considerably under the level of the chancel, which terminates in a
+semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed in 1247, and of the same kind
+as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behind the altar are five small
+windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble. Between the stairs leading up
+to the chancel is the chapel constructed in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie
+the remains of Gualberto, the founder of the church and of the order of
+Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north aisle is the chapel of Cardinal
+Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by B.&nbsp;Rossellino, and the
+beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca della Robbia. On the south
+side is the Sacristy (built in 1387), exquisitely painted in fresco by
+Spinello Aretino, representing scenes in the life of St. Benedict. In
+<span class = "pagenum">250</span>
+<a name = "page250" id = "page250"> </a>
+<!-- png 304 -->
+the centre of the nave is a curious piece of Byzantine pavement,
+executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on 38 marble
+columns, several being prolongations of those above. Under the altar is
+the tomb of San Miniato. From the terraces of the adjoining cemetery
+there are splendid views of Florence and of the valley of the Arno.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: The Certosa.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_certosa" id =
+"florence_certosa">
+The Certosa.</a></h5>
+
+<p>From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at
+the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles
+distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the
+grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading
+up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely
+situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is
+now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars
+of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At
+the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the
+convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal
+to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see
+the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a
+fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento
+style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco
+by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls,
+and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of
+S.&nbsp;Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity
+of the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the
+mausoleum of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs
+over the tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a&nbsp;narrow
+cloister with eight small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine,
+1560; Cappella del Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by
+Albertinelli, and in the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by
+Stogallo, 1545; then the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and
+bedroom. He was a prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are
+obtained from various parts. In passing through the villages women may
+be seen plaiting straw&mdash;a standard occupation in Tuscany.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Bello Sguardo. Monte Oliveto.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "florence_bello_sguardo" id =
+"florence_bello_sguardo"><b>Views.</b></a>&mdash;From the Porta Romana
+commences also the road to the Bello Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about
+a mile distant), both commanding splendid views of the city, of the
+valley of the Arno, and of the surrounding mountains. Immediately
+outside the Porta turn to the right, and walk by the side of the city
+wall by the Via Petrarcha till the second road on the left, the Via de
+Casone, by which continue
+<span class = "pagenum">251</span>
+<a name = "page251" id = "page251"> </a>
+<!-- png 305 -->
+to ascend till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello
+Sguardo. By it ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino,
+where at the house No.&nbsp;1 ring the bell. The view is from the
+pavilion of this house; fee, ½ fr. To go from this to <a name =
+"florence_monte_oliveto" id = "florence_monte_oliveto"><b>Monte
+Oliveto</b></a> descend to the Via di Bello Sguardo, and from a house
+with a high railing turn to the right by the “Via di Monte Oliveto Per
+S.&nbsp;Vito,” and descend to a large gateway and house on the left
+hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte Oliveto, then walk
+forward past the old convent, now a military hospital, to the top of the
+knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the view. Now descend by the
+Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the hill, enters the Via
+Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta S.&nbsp;Frediano, whence an
+omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If preferred, the tour may be
+commenced at this end, taking the omnibus from the Piazza to the
+Porta.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santo Spirito.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "florence_santo_spirito" id =
+"florence_santo_spirito"><span class = "smallcaps">Santo Spirito and
+Santa Maria del Carmine.</span></a>&mdash;By referring to the plan it
+will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are
+two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous
+frescoes of Masaccio (b.&nbsp;1402, d.&nbsp;1429), and of Filippino
+Lippi (b.&nbsp;1457, d.&nbsp;1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in
+which Luther preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome.
+The present church of the S.&nbsp;Spirito was commenced in 1446 by
+F.&nbsp;Brunelleschi, destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488
+according to Brunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable
+proportions, was erected by B. d’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and
+191 at the transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of
+the aisles rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of
+pietra-serena, brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church
+are 38 semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro
+Allori, Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del
+Garbio, Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo,
+and Cosimo Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th
+chapel from entrance to church, a&nbsp;Madonna by Lippi. In left
+transept, 19th and 20th chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori.
+22d chapel, an Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the
+most remarkable work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering,
+a&nbsp;Pieta, by Baccio Bigio, a&nbsp;copy of the group by Michael
+Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. The proportions of the dead body of our
+Lord are admirable, and the ribs, loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully
+marked. Before the choir is a screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze
+and rich marbles, and although rather out of place, full of beautiful
+details.
+<span class = "pagenum">252</span>
+<a name = "page252" id = "page252"> </a>
+<!-- png 306 -->
+The high altar, under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of
+rare porphyry, is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni
+Caccini. A&nbsp;door in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the
+joint work of San Gallo and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490.
+In the sacristy a door to the right opens into the cloisters, by
+A.&nbsp;Parigi, adorned with frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and
+Cascetti.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santa Maria del Carmine. Brancacci Chapel.</span></p>
+
+<p>The church <a name = "florence_del_carmine" id =
+"florence_del_carmine"><b>Del Carmine</b></a> was erected in 1475,
+destroyed by fire in 1771, and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and
+Mannaconi. Among the parts which escaped destruction in 1771 was the
+<a name = "florence_brancacci" id = "florence_brancacci"><b>Brancacci
+chapel</b></a>, at the end of the western or right transept, covered
+with valuable frescoes, in 12 compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and
+Masolino da Panicale. The four principal subjects are (left wall)
+“Christ directing St. Peter to take a coin from a fish’s mouth to pay
+the tribute,” by Masaccio, whose portrait is given in the last apostle
+to the right; “the Restoration to Life of the Emperor’s Nephew,” painted
+by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio. On the right wall are&mdash; “St. Peter
+raising Tabitha,” by Masolino; “the Crucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St.
+Paul before the Proconsul,” by Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said
+to have been studied by Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and
+Michael Angelo. Of the eight small subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and
+Eve,” and “St. Peter and St. John Healing the Sick by means of their
+Shadows,” on the left wall; “St. Peter Baptising,” and “St. Peter
+Distributing Alms,” on the right wall, are all by Masaccio. “The Visit
+of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison,” on the left wall, and “the
+Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” on the right wall, are by Lippi.
+“Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,” and “St. Peter Healing the
+Cripple,” are ascribed by some to Masolino, by others to Masaccio. In
+the opposite arm of the transept is the Corsini chapel, with large
+marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes on the ceiling by Luca
+Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some frescoes discovered in
+1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also, and with more
+probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the life of St.
+Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some fragments of
+which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the Royal
+Institution, Liverpool.</p>
+
+<hr class = "tiny">
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<a href = "#florence_cathedral">The Duomo</a>, 252.
+<a href = "#florence_campanile">The Campanile</a>, 255.
+<a href = "#florence_baptistery">The Baptistery</a>, 256.
+<a href = "#florence_bigallo">Il Bigallo</a>, 257.
+<a href = "#florence_san_michele">San Michele</a>, 257.
+<a href = "#florence_sta_croce">Santa Croce</a>, 258.
+<a href = "#florence_national_museum">The National Museum</a>, 261.
+<a href = "#florence_la_badia">La Badia</a>, 263.
+<a href = "#florence_michelangelo_house">The House of Michael
+Angelo</a>, 263.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Cathedral&mdash;Dome&mdash;Ascent.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "florence_cathedral" id = "florence_cathedral"><span class
+= "smallcaps">The</span> Duomo, or Cathedral Church</a> of Santa Maria
+del Fiore was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone
+laid on
+<span class = "pagenum">253</span>
+<a name = "page253" id = "page253"> </a>
+<!-- png 307 -->
+the 8th of September 1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate
+ever sent to Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310.
+In 1330 Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea
+Pisano, continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in
+1337. To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea
+Orcagna. In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the <a name =
+"florence_cathedral_dome" id = "florence_cathedral_dome">dome</a>, and
+completed it in all its essential parts before his death, which took
+place in 1446. In 1469 Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper
+ball and cross. The dome, built without timber centrings, consists of
+two vast vaults, an interior and an exterior, both supported by strong
+ribs at the right angles, and surrounded at the base by a strong iron
+chain. From the floor to the top of the dome the height is 300 feet, the
+lantern 52 more, and to the top of the cross other 35. The total height
+therefore is, from the floor to the top of the cross, 387 feet. The
+circumference of the dome is 466 feet. Three galleries are carried round
+the drum. The first is reached by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more;
+and the third, which runs round the top of the drum and the base of the
+dome, by other 65 steps. The appearance of the church from the first and
+third galleries is most striking. Outside the third gallery commences
+the cornice gallery of the dome. From this part 180 steps (between the
+two vaults) lead to the top of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to
+the ball the <a name = "florence_cathedral_ascent" id =
+"florence_cathedral_ascent">ascent</a> is made up through the lantern by
+32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in marble, and 23 in wood. The
+number of steps, therefore, from the floor into the ball is 528; the
+only difficult part being the vertical bronze bear-like ladder in the
+lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little can be seen (and that
+little with difficulty) from an aperture in the ball. But the view from
+the gallery at the top of the dome is truly magnificent. Florence and
+neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on a map, and as the
+clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest objects being seen
+distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery as early as
+possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (<a href =
+"#map234">page 234</a>), a&nbsp;practical acquaintance with the
+topography of the city. To the N.E., by the Piazza Cavour and the stream
+Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3&nbsp;miles distant, on an eminence (see <a href =
+"#fiesole">page 276</a>). To the west of the town, on the Arno, is the
+Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of trees, on the
+other side of the river, is the <a href =
+"#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte Oliveto</a> (page 250). To the S.E., on
+the other side of the Arno, are the <a href =
+"#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">Piazzale Michelangiolo</a> and <a href =
+"#florence_san_miniato">San Miniato</a> (page 249), while a good piece
+beyond is the <a href = "#florence_torre_gallo">Torre del Gallo</a>
+(page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli Gardens and
+<span class = "pagenum">254</span>
+<a name = "page254" id = "page254"> </a>
+<!-- png 308 -->
+the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1&nbsp;fr. Attendant to be found
+in south sacristy.</p>
+
+<p>The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342
+feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the
+superficial area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area
+occupied by Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the
+foundation-stone of the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole
+exterior of the church, with polished white marble, and dark magnesian
+serpentine disposed in chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement
+often met with in the churches of Italy.</p>
+
+<p>In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of
+the nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the
+magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not
+struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively
+unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble
+pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and
+stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the
+narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated
+octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues
+of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and
+Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and the
+reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents
+the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G.&nbsp;Vasari, in 1572, and
+the rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of
+Queen Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular
+windows, which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the
+twenty-seven long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi
+da Gambassi, Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind
+the altar is the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of
+age), an <i>unfinished Pieta</i>, a&nbsp;heroic group, large but not
+colossal, composed of four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin
+Mary, Joseph, and an Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the
+melancholy but placid countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination
+of the head lacerated by the crown of thorns.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_michelangelo_last" id
+= "florence_michelangelo_last">
+Florence: Michael Angelo’s last Work.</a></span>
+The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in the sixth room of the
+National Museum, along with some other works of the great sculptor. His
+greatest productions are in the <a href =
+"#florence_sagrestia_nuova">Sagrestia Nuova</a>, see page <ins class =
+"correction" title = "text reads ‘166’">266</ins>. The reliefs in
+terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of the sacristies, are
+considered amongst the best works of Lucca della Robbia. On the pier at
+the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St. James, by Sansovino; and
+just behind it, on
+<span class = "pagenum">255</span>
+<a name = "page255" id = "page255"> </a>
+<!-- png 309 -->
+the wall, is a painting by Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing
+Dante (holding in his hands a copy of his poems), with a view of
+Florence in the background, the only monument the Republic raised to him
+they had so unjustly banished. In the north transept, covered by the
+wooden floor, just under the iron bar, is the gnomen and meridian line,
+formed by P.&nbsp;Toscanelli in 1408, and repaired by A.&nbsp;Ximines in
+1756. The line drawn on the true pavement, under the present boarded
+floor, runs in a direction nearly at right angles to the nave (the nave
+being nearly east and west). It is only about 30 feet long, and receives
+the image of the sun, at and near the solstice, in June and July; at
+other seasons the image is lost on the sides of the cupola. The short
+diameter of the image in July is about 36 inches. The height of the
+aperture, through which the ray enters by a window of the cupolina, is
+277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure; so that, as the
+inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_cathedral_monuments" id =
+"florence_cathedral_monuments">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence:
+Cathedral&mdash;Monuments&mdash;Campanile.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main
+entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood,
+a&nbsp;captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at
+Florence in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin,
+is by Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble
+monument and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And.
+Cavalcanti. The third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano.
+The beautiful water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern
+entrance, in front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a
+sitting posture, of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi
+Pampaloni, in 1830. To the right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29,
+is a stone in the wall, bearing the words “Sasso di Dante,” because on
+it the poet used to sit watching the progress of the cathedral from its
+commencement till 1301, when he was compelled to leave the city.</p>
+
+<p>At the southern entrance is the <a name = "florence_campanile" id =
+"florence_campanile"><b>Campanile del Duomo</b></a>, designed and
+commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This
+dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and
+beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys
+of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting
+from the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a&nbsp;spire of
+94½ feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of
+apostles, saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture
+subjects in bold relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano,
+Niccolo Aretino, Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent
+by 414 steps. Fee, ½ franc each visitor.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">256</span>
+<a name = "page256" id = "page256"> </a>
+<!-- png 310 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: The Baptistery&mdash;Gates.</span></p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the cathedral is the church of <a name =
+"florence_baptistery" id = "florence_baptistery"><b>San
+Giovanni</b></a>, the baptistery of the city, founded in 6th cent., and
+repaired and restored in 1293 by Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal
+building, 94 ft. in diameter, covered by a cupola and lantern built in
+1550. <a name = "florence_baptistery_gates" id =
+"florence_baptistery_gates">Three celebrated bronze gates</a>, of
+admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S. side
+(fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and, after
+twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The
+architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446,
+and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by&nbsp;V.
+Danti, in 1571&mdash;a work full of expression. The N. gate is by
+Lorenzo Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished
+(modelled and cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty
+compartments, representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three
+statues above, and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511,
+a&nbsp;fellow-pupil of Michael Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the
+eastern end, facing the cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael
+Angelo said was worthy to form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel
+of art was commenced by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and
+finished, with the exception of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when
+Ghiberti died, and left the remainder to be completed by his pupils,
+among whom were the brothers Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments,
+representing as many scenes from the Old Testament. In grouping,
+drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures are truly admirable. The
+perspective is well sustained; the distant objects being done in low,
+the nearer objects in middle, and those close upon the eye in high
+relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by Sansovino, who, when
+he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling; but Danti, in 1560,
+produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a century afterwards,
+are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_baptistery_altar" id =
+"florence_baptistery_altar">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: The
+Baptistery&mdash;Altar.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble
+pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes
+of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the
+soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing
+the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G.&nbsp;Gaddie, 13th cent. To
+the right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII.
+(d.&nbsp;1419), by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font,
+placed here in 1658, and attributed to G.&nbsp;Pisano. The silver altar
+of the Baptistery is kept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata
+del Duomo” (behind the east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen
+any day from 9 to 12, for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long
+series of
+<span class = "pagenum">257</span>
+<a name = "page257" id = "page257"> </a>
+<!-- png 311 -->
+years from 1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents
+in bold relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12
+ft. long by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in
+1452, weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_bigallo" id =
+"florence_bigallo">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: The Bigallo. Or San
+Michele.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the
+very beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to
+Orcagna, enclosed with iron gates by F.&nbsp;Petrucci. The oratory
+contains an image of the Virgin by A.&nbsp;Arnoldo, 1359; and a
+predella, with paintings, by Ghirlandaio.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_san_michele" id =
+"florence_san_michele">
+Or San Michele.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del
+Duomo and della Signoria, is the <b>Or San Michele</b>, built at first
+of undressed stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or
+horreum. Having been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337
+under the direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the
+commonwealth. To Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to
+transform the lower part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper
+storey was converted into government offices. Round the building, in
+deep niches, are statues in simple attitudes and of noble dignified
+forms, the result of a decree that each trade should bear the expense of
+furnishing one statue, which should be the protector and supporter of
+its own profession. St. Luke, by John of Bologna (good specimen of his
+style), was executed at the expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St.
+Thomas, by Verrochio, for the mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by
+L.&nbsp;Ghiberti, for the guild of foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by
+Donatello, for the butchers. John the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a
+graceful canopy of Robbia-ware, for the silk manufacturers. St. George,
+by Donatello, his noblest work, for the armourers. St. James, by
+N.&nbsp;Banco, for the tanners and furriers. St. Mark, by Donatello, for
+the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by Banco, for the blacksmiths
+and farriers. St. Stephen, by L.&nbsp;Ghiberti, for the wool-merchants.
+St. Matthew, by L.&nbsp;Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for the stockbrokers
+and money-changers. Statues of four canonised sculptors, by Banco, for
+the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by Banco, for the hosiers. And
+inside the church, to the left of the altar of St. Anne, a&nbsp;Madonna,
+by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and apothecaries. These statues
+are considered the finest works of the ancient Florentine school. Over
+the niches are the arms of the respective trades, under graceful
+canopies.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">258</span>
+<a name = "page258" id = "page258"> </a>
+<!-- png 312 -->
+
+<p>In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high
+altar, by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred
+picture of the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictor
+Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359.” It is
+ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different
+pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The
+small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light
+into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an
+admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less
+admirably to a Fountain.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santa Croce.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_sta_croce" id =
+"florence_sta_croce">
+Santa Croce.</a></h5>
+
+<p>South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the
+narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in
+the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico
+Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on
+the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa
+Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded
+Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is
+according to the old design of S.&nbsp;Pollaiolo (d.&nbsp;1509), and
+owes its erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an
+English gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in
+1871. The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute
+Gothic arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof,
+are of rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread
+out on the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the
+display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire
+length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the
+transepts 128 feet.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santa Croce&mdash;Michael
+Angelo&mdash;Dante&mdash;Macchiavelli.</span></p>
+
+<p>Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St.
+Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d.&nbsp;1297), the last work executed by
+Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main
+entrance, after 1st altar, lies the <a name = "sta_croce_michelangelo"
+id = "sta_croce_michelangelo">monument and resting-place of Michael
+Angelo</a>, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument was
+designed by G.&nbsp;Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael
+Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by
+B.&nbsp;Lorenzione, one of the three. Next follows the great marble
+monument by S.&nbsp;Ricci, in 1828, to the memory of <a name =
+"sta_croce_dante" id = "sta_croce_dante">Dante</a>, who died when in
+exile at Ravenna in 1321, in the 56th year of his age; and 3d,
+a&nbsp;monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri (d.&nbsp;1803), by Canova, in
+1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this monument is an
+elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470. 4th.
+<span class = "pagenum">259</span>
+<a name = "page259" id = "page259"> </a>
+<!-- png 313 -->
+Monument and resting-place of <a name = "sta_croce_macchiavelli" id =
+"sta_croce_macchiavelli">Macchiavelli</a> (d.&nbsp;1527), by Spinazzi,
+in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707,
+raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St.
+John and St. Francis, by A.&nbsp;Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone
+by Donatello;
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "sta_croce_ketterick" id =
+"sta_croce_ketterick">
+Florence: Santa Croce&mdash;Ketterick&mdash;<br>
+Countess of Albany.</a></span>
+and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John Ketterick,
+Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a mission from
+Henry&nbsp;V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument to
+L.&nbsp;Bruni (d.&nbsp;1444), by B.&nbsp;Rossellini. The Virgin, above,
+is by A.&nbsp;Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of
+P.&nbsp;A. Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop.
+Veneziani. Turning to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in
+London, 1859), and a slab on the ground, with an inscription by
+Boccaccio, in honour of the poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the
+Chapel of the Castellani, with frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of
+Giotto), and reredos by Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto;
+at each side sarcophagi of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard
+and St. Francis, by L. della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the
+<a name = "sta_croce_albany" id = "sta_croce_albany">Countess of
+Albany</a>, widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29,
+1824; age, 72 years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the
+Countess of Albany follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos
+painting by Giotto, frescoes by T.&nbsp;Gaddi, and a Pietà by
+Bandinelli.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the
+cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the
+sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from
+the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes
+and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a&nbsp;favourite pupil of
+T.&nbsp;Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T.&nbsp;Gaddi, 1375. At the
+extremity of the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance
+is a shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the
+altar, admirable specimens of L.&nbsp;Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The
+large relief is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door
+to the right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo
+were kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two
+mausoleums&mdash;one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another
+attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santa Croce&mdash;Giotto’s Frescoes.</span></p>
+
+<p>Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right)
+frescoes of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second
+chapel, frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte
+chapel, is, to the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory
+of the wife of Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory
+of their daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d.&nbsp;1845). The fourth, or
+the first to the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with
+reredos
+<span class = "pagenum">260</span>
+<a name = "page260" id = "page260"> </a>
+<!-- png 314 -->
+by A. del Sarto. On the walls <a name = "sta_croce_giotto" id =
+"sta_croce_giotto"><b>Giotto’s best frescoes</b></a>, representing the
+stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the
+Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S.&nbsp;Francesco,
+is by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and
+death of San Francesco.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chapels of the Choir.</i>&mdash;Over the high altar, painting by
+Andrea Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by
+Agnolo Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and
+the life of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much
+importance, excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in
+fresco by Luigi Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with
+frescoes on the roof, painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre
+Franceschini, surnamed <i>il Volterrano</i>. This chapel contains five
+mediocre statues by Francavilla, and two large paintings on wood by
+Alessandro Allori, and is also richly decorated with beautiful marbles.
+In the adjoining chapel, belonging to the Bardi family, is a crucifix by
+Donatello, one of his earliest and best works, yet not equal to that of
+his rival Brunelleschi in <a href = "#florence_sta_maria_novella">S.
+Maria Novella</a> (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska
+mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the
+composer Luigi Cherubini (d.&nbsp;1842), by Fantacchiotti.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Florence: Santa Croce&mdash;Galileo&mdash;<br>
+Bartolini’s Last Work.</span>
+Having arrived at the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the
+north aisle, to avoid confusion it is better to return to the main
+entrance, and walk up the north aisle, commencing with the monument and
+resting-place of</p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "sta_croce_galileo" id =
+"sta_croce_galileo">
+Galileo Galilei,</a></h5>
+
+<p>who died in the village of Arcetri (<a href =
+"#florence_galileo_house">p. 248</a>), in 1642. Over the cenotaph is his
+bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows the
+monument to Pompeio Josephi, a&nbsp;jurist; 3d, to G.&nbsp;Lani (1770),
+by Spinazzi,&mdash;on the column before this monument is a Pietà by
+A.&nbsp;Bronzino; 4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat
+pyramid; 5th, to Vitt. Fossombroni, by L.&nbsp;Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to
+Karolus Marzupinus, the learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by
+D.&nbsp;Settignano, 1450; 7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to
+<i>Raffællo Morghen</i>, the illustrious Neapolitan engraver,
+a&nbsp;beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti. Fronting it, on the column,
+is the monument to L.&nbsp;B. Alberti, the last work of <a name =
+"sta_croce_bartolini" id = "sta_croce_bartolini">Bartolini</a>.</p>
+
+<p>To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the
+cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this
+enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works.
+To
+<span class = "pagenum">261</span>
+<a name = "page261" id = "page261"> </a>
+<!-- png 315 -->
+the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing
+the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion
+and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco
+of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782.
+The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the
+refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli
+which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: National Museum.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_national_museum" id =
+"florence_national_museum">
+The National Museum or Bargello.</a></h5>
+
+<p>At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the
+Piazzas Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the <b>National Museum</b>, in the
+Palazzo del Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two
+Dominican friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names,
+according to the functions of the different dignities who occupied it.
+When, in the 17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the
+seat of the head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it
+was chosen for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1&nbsp;fr.
+Free on feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the
+escutcheons of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground
+floor are filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon
+cast in 1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the <b>Marzocco</b>, or the
+<b>Arms of Florence</b>, a&nbsp;seated lion supporting a shield with its
+left paw. Ascend to the first floor by the <i>outside</i> staircase in
+the court. It was built by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule,
+are two bells, one cast in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni
+in 1670.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: National Museum.&mdash;Sculpture&mdash;Michael
+Angelo&mdash;Bologna&mdash;Cellini.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "nat_mus_sculpture" id = "nat_mus_sculpture"><i>First
+saloon.</i></a>&mdash;All labelled. Principal objects&mdash;By <a name =
+"nat_mus_michelangelo" id = "nat_mus_michelangelo"><i>Michael
+Angelo</i></a>, Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an
+unfinished group of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath.
+<a name = "nat_mus_bologna" id = "nat_mus_bologna">G.&nbsp;da
+Bologna</a>, Virtue conquering Vice. A&nbsp;beautiful series of reliefs,
+illustrating Music and its effects, chiefly by L.&nbsp;Robbia and
+Donatello. <i>Second room.</i>&mdash;Furniture and glass ware. Wax group
+by Zumbo. <i>Third hall</i>, the audience chamber of the
+Podestà.&mdash;Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled ware. <i>Fourth
+hall</i>, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in which
+prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are
+chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east
+wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master
+Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by
+Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is
+thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see
+them must request the door to be opened. <i>Fifth</i>
+<span class = "pagenum">262</span>
+<a name = "page262" id = "page262"> </a>
+<!-- png 316 -->
+<i>saloon.</i>&mdash;Two triptychs by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock
+crystal by <a name = "nat_mus_cellini" id =
+"nat_mus_cellini">Cellini</a>, Bologna, and N.&nbsp;Pisano. Wood carving
+by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to the second floor.)
+<i>Saloons 6 and&nbsp;7.</i>&mdash;Sculptures by the best Italian
+artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the
+sixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the
+centre, a&nbsp;Child by Donatello. The famous <i>Mercury</i>, by
+Bologna. David, by Verrochio. On the wall, a&nbsp;bronze table by
+Pollaiolo, representing the Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on
+the right by Ghiberti, and the other on the left by Brunelleschi,
+prepared for the competition for the doors of the Baptistery of
+Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a&nbsp;fine ornament by Donatello. At
+the beginning of the third wall is a large bas-relief by&nbsp;V. Dante,
+representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert; and below it, another
+representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are followed by a cabinet full
+of sketches by the best artists of the 15th and 16th cents. After these,
+the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and
+his model in bronze of the Perseus, under the loggia. Ascend now to the
+second floor by the stair in the fifth room. 1st room.&mdash;Portraits
+in fresco by A.&nbsp;Castagno (1450), transferred to canvas a few years
+ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained
+glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room on the right.&mdash;Fine display
+of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and Andrea Robbia. Stained glass
+window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room (tower).&mdash;Tapestry 17th cent.
+4th room (on the left of the entrance).&mdash;French tapestry and
+collection of coins. In the next two rooms, 5 and 6, are the
+<b>Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture</b>, which formerly stood in the
+galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John the Baptist, by
+Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano, 1507, the
+Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room 6, in the
+centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by Sansovino.
+Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St. Peter, by
+L.&nbsp;Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John
+(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year);
+Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall,
+bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance
+wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a&nbsp;Madonna and a
+bust of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a&nbsp;Madonna and a
+St. John. Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children
+supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna,
+by Verrochio.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">263</span>
+<a name = "page263" id = "page263"> </a>
+<!-- png 317 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: La Badia. House of Michael Angelo.</span></p>
+
+<p>At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum,
+is <a name = "florence_la_badia" id = "florence_la_badia"><b>La
+Badia</b></a>, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines;
+rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by
+Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good
+monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome
+door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the
+right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On
+the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In
+the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni,
+d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of
+Count Ugo of Tuscany (d.&nbsp;1000). Above is an Assumption, by
+G.&nbsp;Vasari, and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a&nbsp;Madonna
+appearing to St. Bernard, by F.&nbsp;Lippi.</p>
+
+<p>A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina,
+is the <a name = "florence_michelangelo_house" id =
+"florence_michelangelo_house">house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti</a>,
+a&nbsp;plain building, containing a collection of paintings, sculptures,
+and sundry objects connected with Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care
+of the State by the last member of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in
+1858. The gallery is open to the public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9
+to 3. Catalogue in Italian or French, ½ fr. The collection is contained
+in seven rooms, some very small. In the centre of the first room is a
+small bust of Michael Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at
+different ages. No. 14, Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in
+relief, by Michael Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed
+terra-cotta figures by the Robbias, displaying admirably the fine
+delicate surface of the enamel peculiar to their productions. Amongst
+those who have distinguished themselves in the manufactory of
+earthenware is Luca della Robbia, a&nbsp;Florentine goldsmith and
+statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and human figures in relief, and
+architectural ornaments of glazed earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata.
+The colours are white, blue, green, brown, and yellow. The art of making
+these glazed earthen figures invented by Luca was taught by him to his
+brothers Ottaviano and Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his
+nephew Andrea. The rooms to the left contain drawings and plans of
+Michael Angelo, many being the original sketches of his greatest works.
+First room right, the principal room of all, contains the statue of
+Michael Angelo in a sitting posture, by Novelli; and around the room
+sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in his life. The lower six are in
+grisaille. The ceiling is painted in fresco. The next or fourth room
+contains the family history, illustrated by twenty-one fresco paintings.
+In the small cabinet off this room are, among other things,
+a&nbsp;two-edged sword with the
+<span class = "pagenum">264</span>
+<a name = "page264" id = "page264"> </a>
+<!-- png 318 -->
+Buonarrotti arms. In the fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo,
+a&nbsp;Madonna in relief, on marble. 77, a&nbsp;cast in bronze of 74, by
+Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a&nbsp;bust of Michael Angelo. Sixth
+room (the Library), large frescoes, representing the eminent men of
+Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room off, are Etruscan
+antiquities.</p>
+
+<hr class = "tiny">
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<a href = "#florence_san_giovannino">San Giovannino</a>, 264.
+<a href = "#florence_san_lorenzo">San Lorenzo</a>, 264.
+<a href = "#florence_mortuary">The Mortuary Chapel</a>.
+<a href = "#florence_sagrestia_nuova">The Sagrestia Nuova</a>, 265.
+<a href = "#florence_laurentiana">Biblioteca Laurentiana</a>.
+<a href = "#florence_etruscan">Etruscan and Egyptian Museum</a>, 267.
+<a href = "#florence_sta_maria_novella">Santa Maria Novella</a>, 267.
+<a href = "#florence_spezeria">Spezeria</a>, 268.
+See <a href = "#map234">Plan</a>, near station.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: San Lorenzo. Road to the Sagrestia Nuova.</span></p>
+
+<p>North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and
+next the <a href = "#florence_pal_riccardi">Palazzo Riccardi</a> (see
+page 275), is the Church of <a name = "florence_san_giovannino" id =
+"florence_san_giovannino"><b>San Giovannino</b></a>, rebuilt in the 16th
+cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life of Christ, by
+Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and Ligozzi. A&nbsp;few
+yards west from San Giovannino is <a name = "florence_san_lorenzo" id =
+"florence_san_lorenzo"><span class = "smallcaps">San Lorenzo</span></a>,
+considered in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan
+church of Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393,
+when it was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and
+consecrated by Pope Nicholas&nbsp;II. Having been destroyed by fire in
+1417, during a festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs
+of Florence, it was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo,
+and finished by Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form
+of a T, 400 feet long from east to west, and 170 from north to south.
+The aisles are lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian
+columns. The two pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in
+relief, by Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by
+Meucci. At the north transept is a monument in white marble by
+Thorwaldsen to Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the
+mortuary chapel. In the south transept is a monument to the memory of a
+daughter of General Moltke. A&nbsp;slab at the foot of the high altar
+bears the title and age of Cosmo&nbsp;I., but his remains repose in a
+black and white marble tomb in the subterranean church. <a name =
+"florence_sagrestia_road" id = "florence_sagrestia_road">Those pressed
+for time</a> should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St.
+Lorenzo, turn down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del
+Canto de’ Nelli, to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse
+of San Lorenzo,
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_underground" id =
+"florence_underground">
+Florence: Underground Chapel&mdash;<br>
+Mortuary Chapel.</a></span>
+which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi,” of the Medici
+family, and to the still more famous chapel called the <i>Sagrestia
+Nuova</i>. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every
+other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the
+left, which leads into the mortuary chapel.
+<span class = "pagenum">265</span>
+<a name = "page265" id = "page265"> </a>
+<!-- png 319 -->
+Guides offer their assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan
+alone can unlock the doors. The <a name = "florence_mortuary" id =
+"florence_mortuary"><b>Mortuary Chapel</b></a> is octagonal, and covered
+with polished marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant
+harmony of colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are
+continued on the ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of
+P.&nbsp;Benvenuti, painted in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a
+monument to a member of the Medicean family, from Cosmo&nbsp;I. to
+Cosmo&nbsp;III. (d.&nbsp;1723), whose son, G.&nbsp;Gastone
+(d.&nbsp;1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the crypt or
+lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello near
+those of his patron Cosmo&nbsp;I., as well as those of 35 other members
+of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of
+Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen
+cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in
+panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these
+princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and
+built by M.&nbsp;Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand&nbsp;I., Duke of
+Tuscany, to receive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled
+“to the door of the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised
+him by the Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having
+fulfilled his promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his
+predecessor, Cosmo&nbsp;I., and had it converted into the burial chapel
+of the Medicean family.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_sagrestia_nuova" id =
+"florence_sagrestia_nuova">
+Florence: Sagrestia Nuova.</a></span>
+From this chapel a short narrow passage leads to the <b>Sagrestia
+Nuova</b>, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing the monuments and
+mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and brother of Pope Leo X.;
+and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and father of Catherine of
+Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of Moses at Rome, are the
+greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the edifice was conceived
+by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were entrusted in 1521 to
+Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing. A&nbsp;formal square
+chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble, supported by
+two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone called pietra
+dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the same tame, flat
+style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of Giuliano. He is
+represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand gloved and raised.
+The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which seems to yield to the
+pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the countenance. The two
+statues reclining on the urn represent Day and Night. Day is little more
+than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have done more would have
+weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is
+<span class = "pagenum">266</span>
+<a name = "page266" id = "page266"> </a>
+<!-- png 320 -->
+heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined.
+The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching
+expression&mdash;the drooping head and the supporting hand are
+unrivalled in the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The
+attitude of Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding
+as to have acquired for it the title of “il pensiero.” Beneath are the
+personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a
+superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest
+and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right
+limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure
+of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought,
+an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as
+if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the
+altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the
+right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a&nbsp;pupil of Michael
+Angelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Bibliotheca Laurentiana.</span></p>
+
+<p>A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of
+S.&nbsp;Lorenzo leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by
+Vasari, to the <a name = "florence_laurentiana" id =
+"florence_laurentiana"><b>Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana</b></a>. The
+books are kept in desks. Open from 9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee,
+1&nbsp;fr. This library was founded by Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the
+remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil of the 4th cent. in Roman
+capitals, not very different in form from the letters on ancient Roman
+marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a small quarto, with notes; the
+notes written in the 5th cent. by the Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus,
+as his signature attests. This is one of the most ancient legible
+manuscript books in Europe of which the period is authentic. The
+manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library, with paintings, was said
+to be of the 4th cent., of the time of Constantine. The manuscripts of
+the middle ages, instead of being in Roman capitals, are written in
+letters resembling in some degree the small Roman printed letter now in
+use; and, at a still later period, they are in a running hand. This
+library also possesses the celebrated manuscript of the Pandects,
+supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in the 6th cent., written in
+capital letters, which vary a little from the capitals on ancient Roman
+marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a large folio book; it was
+brought from Pisa, and Cosmo&nbsp;I. caused an edition to be printed
+from it by Lelio Torelli. A&nbsp;Tacitus, of the 11th cent. is in a
+running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of manuscripts. Many
+of them are chained to the desks.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Etruscan Museum.</span></p>
+
+<p>Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza,&nbsp;No.
+<span class = "pagenum">267</span>
+<a name = "page267" id = "page267"> </a>
+<!-- png 321 -->
+144, is the <a name = "florence_etruscan" id =
+"florence_etruscan"><b>Etruscan and Egyptian Museum</b></a>. Open from 9
+to 4. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr. Free on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p><i>First Room</i>, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The
+earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the
+entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that
+in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the
+original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the
+Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits
+were invited by the gods. <i>Second Room</i>, In the centre is the vase
+of Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near
+Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted
+by Clitias. <i>Third Room</i>, Minor objects. <i>First Octagon Room</i>,
+Beautiful gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From
+this room a corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful
+bronze statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan
+mirrors. <i>Fourth Room</i>, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of
+the celebrated statues of antiquity. <i>Fifth Room right</i>, Armour.
+<i>Sixth Room</i>, Etruscan sculpture. Both of the gems of the
+collection are in this room&mdash;<i>The Orator</i>, a&nbsp;bronze
+statue above life size, discovered near Lake Thrasymene; and an
+<i>Etruscan Sarcophagus</i>, which lay nearly 2000 years buried in the
+earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years <span class =
+"smallroman">B.C.</span> From this we enter, by a passage covered with
+inscriptions, into the Egyptian Museum. <i>First Room</i>, In the
+centre, a&nbsp;Scythian war-chariot (the only specimen known), and by
+the side of it the remains of the Egyptian soldier who probably captured
+the chariot in battle. <i>Second Room</i>, The most interesting object
+here is the fresco of the <i>Last Supper, by Raphael</i>, in 1505, when
+only twenty-two. On the border of St. Thomas’s dress are the date and
+name. In the last great hall are sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks,
+idols, mummies, portraits, and tabernacles.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Santa Maria Novella&mdash;Rucellai Chapel.</span></p>
+
+<p>Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral
+and S.&nbsp;Lorenzo, is the church of <a name =
+"florence_sta_maria_novella" id = "florence_sta_maria_novella"><b>Santa
+Maria Novella</b></a>, facing the piazza of the same name, adorned with
+two large obelisks of Serravezza Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine
+lilies in bronze, by G.&nbsp;Bologna, 1608.</p>
+
+<p>This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and
+finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L.&nbsp;Alberti, and
+erected at the expense of G.&nbsp;Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on
+the frieze, “Joannes Orcellarius, 1470.” Affixed to it are gnomonic
+instruments, made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco
+over the principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a
+pupil
+<span class = "pagenum">268</span>
+<a name = "page268" id = "page268"> </a>
+<!-- png 322 -->
+of Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a
+remarkable fresco, a&nbsp;Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco
+attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the
+northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or
+right transept, up some steps, is the <a name = "sta_maria_rucellai" id
+= "sta_maria_rucellai"><b>Rucellai Chapel</b></a>. On the reredos of the
+altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his masterpiece.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "sta_maria_ghirlandaio" id =
+"sta_maria_ghirlandaio">
+Florence: S. Maria Novella&mdash;<br>
+Ghirlandaio&mdash;Brunelleschi.</a></span>
+The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high altar, are
+covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D.&nbsp;Ghirlandaio,
+nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by
+B.&nbsp;d’Agnola, and the windows by G.&nbsp;Fiorentino. In the chapel
+on the left, or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden
+<a name = "sta_maria_brunelleschi" id =
+"sta_maria_brunelleschi"><i>Crucifix by Brunelleschi</i></a>.
+A&nbsp;curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up some
+steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A.&nbsp;Orcagna and his
+brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The
+open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where,
+immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin,
+by L.&nbsp;Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by
+G.&nbsp;Fortini. A&nbsp;large door in the west, or left aisle, opens
+into the cloister called the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the
+walls, by Paolo Uccello, 1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted
+in green. Here the keeper, for a few sous, opens the door leading into
+the Cappella degli Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by
+the attendants of Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo&nbsp;I. The ceiling
+and the left wall are covered with admirably conceived and executed
+frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, while those on the right wall are by Simone
+Memmi. Adjoining is the Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by
+Cigoli, Allori, Tito, Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th
+cent., illustrative of the history of the Dominicans, with views of
+Florence in the background.
+<span class = "headnote added float"><a name = "florence_spezeria" id =
+"florence_spezeria">
+Florence: Spezeria.</a></span>
+At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the <i>Spezeria</i>, or
+pharmacy of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a
+red liquor called Alkermes, a&nbsp;specialty of Florence, resembling in
+taste the liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter.
+It is also made and sold at the <a href =
+"#florence_certosa">Certosa</a> (see page 250). The chapel contains some
+beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by
+Spinello Aretino.</p>
+
+<hr class = "tiny">
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<a href = "#florence_annunziata">The Santissima Annunziata</a>, 268.
+<a href = "#florence_san_marco">San Marco</a>, 270.
+<a href = "#san_marco_gallery">Picture-Gallery of San Marco</a>, 270.
+<a href = "#florence_fine_arts">Academy of Fine Arts</a>, 271.
+<a href = "#florence_mosaics">Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure</a>,
+273.
+North-east side of <a href = "#map234">Plan</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence. The Annunziata&mdash;Narthex Frescoes.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi,
+leads straight to the Piazza and Church of the <a name =
+"florence_annunziata" id = "florence_annunziata"><i>Santissima
+Annunziata</i></a>
+<span class = "pagenum">269</span>
+<a name = "page269" id = "page269"> </a>
+<!-- png 323 -->
+the only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at
+12; but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> On the right side of the Piazza is the Spedale
+degli Innocenti, a&nbsp;foundling hospital designed by Brunelleschi, and
+ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with pretty terra-cotta
+figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre of the square is
+an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand&nbsp;I., by Bologna, in
+1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The <b>Church of the
+Annunziata</b> was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria. At
+the entrance is a <a name = "annunziata_narthex" id =
+"annunziata_narthex">narthex</a> or vestibule decorated with admirable
+frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption
+by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J.&nbsp;Pontormo, 1516,
+pupil of A. del Sarto; a&nbsp;Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio,
+1513; a&nbsp;Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next
+picture, an Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works;
+a&nbsp;Nativity by A.&nbsp;Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del
+Sarto; Children being Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite
+Filippo Benizzi; a&nbsp;Dead Child recalled to life by touching the Bier
+of Filippo; the Cure of a Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by
+Lightning who had insulted Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By
+Rosselli: Filippo assumes the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also
+the tomb of Andrea del Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini.</p>
+
+<p>The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S.&nbsp;Gallo.
+Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the
+windows are almost all by C.&nbsp;Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle
+are five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short
+transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a
+cupola painted by B.&nbsp;Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right
+transept is the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately
+behind the high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by
+B.&nbsp;Agnolo (1543), is the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of
+Gian Bologna (d.&nbsp;1608), who constructed this chapel for himself,
+and ornamented it with some of his best works. Under the organ in the
+second chapel is an Assumption by Perugino. In the third chapel is a
+Crucifixion by Stradano, his best work. In the fourth, a&nbsp;copy of
+Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day,” by Allori. Next it, and to the left of
+the main entrance, is the chapel and shrine of the <i>Annunziata</i>,
+built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by forty-one silver lamps and
+one gold lamp glittering among costly polished stones. Over the altar is
+an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro Cavallini (d.&nbsp;1364), said to
+have been done by angels.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "annunziata_sacred_picture" id
+= "annunziata_sacred_picture">
+Florence: The Annunziata&mdash;<br>
+Sacred Picture.</a></span>
+This picture is shown only once a year; but a duplicate
+<span class = "pagenum">270</span>
+<a name = "page270" id = "page270"> </a>
+<!-- png 324 -->
+of it, also by Cavallini, is in San Marco, on the wall to the right on
+entering. Over the altar is an “Ecce Homo,” by An. del Sarto, in silver.
+Adjoining is the cloister built by S.&nbsp;Pollaiolo. Over the door
+opening into the church is a “Holy Family,” by A. del Sarto,
+a&nbsp;production in the highest style of excellence, called the Madonna
+del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the background seated on a sack. The
+other fresco paintings in the cloister are by Poccetti,
+A.&nbsp;Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and&nbsp;V. Salimbeni (1542-1650), all
+displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is also
+the chapel of <i>St. Luke</i>, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting the
+Virgin,” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by
+Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: San Marco&mdash;Picture-Gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p>By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the
+Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the <a name =
+"florence_san_marco" id = "florence_san_marco"><b>Church of
+S.&nbsp;Marco</b></a> (standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence
+with <i>San Marco</i>, erected in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by
+Michelozzi. Interior.&mdash;Over central door a “Crucifixion” by Giotto.
+First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before the Cross by S. di Tito, and an
+Annunciation by P.&nbsp;Cavallini (covered). Second altar, Madonna and
+Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here a small door opens into
+the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of Christ by Novelli, and
+of S.&nbsp;Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the high altar is the
+Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito, Empoli, Poccetti, and
+Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of S.&nbsp;Antonino, with
+frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a painting by Bronzino.
+Between the second and third altars on this the left side of the church,
+are the graves of the scholar Pico della Mirandola, d.&nbsp;1494; the
+poet Girolano Benivieni, d.&nbsp;1542; and of Poliziano, d.&nbsp;1494,
+tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the right of the main
+entrance is the Convent, now the <a name = "san_marco_gallery" id =
+"san_marco_gallery"><i>Picture-Gallery</i></a>, of St. Mark. Open from
+10 to 3. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr. Sundays free. During the 15th and 16th cent.
+this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop Antonino
+(d.&nbsp;1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d.&nbsp;1455), Fra. Girolamo
+Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo
+della Porta (d.&nbsp;1517), the best collection of whose works is in
+this convent. Among the very fine frescoes are&mdash;On the door of the
+church, left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,”
+B.&nbsp;Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, “Crucifixion,” with St.
+Dominic, B.&nbsp;Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church
+opens into the refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing
+food to St. Dominic, by Sogliani (d.&nbsp;1544), pupil of L.&nbsp;Credi.
+Above is a “Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in
+<span class = "pagenum">271</span>
+<a name = "page271" id = "page271"> </a>
+<!-- png 325 -->
+the south corner of the east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a
+large fresco of the Crucifixion by B.&nbsp;Angelico. A&nbsp;very famous
+work. The crucifix on the left is by B.&nbsp;Montelupo, and the other by
+his son. The door in the middle of the east wall gives access to the
+picture-gallery in the upper storey. At the foot of this stair is a
+grand picture, a&nbsp;Last Supper (Cenacolo) by Ghirlandaio, who has
+dressed the company in the costume of the brotherhood. From this ascend
+to the first floor to what were the cells or rooms of the monks, ranged
+on each side of a narrow passage ornamented with paintings in fresco. At
+the head of the stair is a very beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico,
+and also by him, on the opposite wall, a&nbsp;St. Dominic embracing the
+Cross. Opposite the Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells
+of the right corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra.
+Benedetto, and those of the left principally by his more famous brother,
+Fra. Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room,
+banners used for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by
+Benedetto. In the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other,
+Cosmo de’ Medici (Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait
+is by Pontormo, “The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the
+beautiful fresco by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by
+Angelico. In the third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an
+“Adoration” and an “Annunciation.” In the fourth, also by him, other two
+famous pictures on wood, the <i>Madonna della Stella</i> and the
+<i>Coronation of Mary</i>. Turning to the right we find all the cells
+(as far as that of Savonarola), with paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some
+pupil of Angelico. In the middle of this corridor is the beautiful
+Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of B.&nbsp;Angelico. At the end, in
+a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the wall by Fra. Bartolomeo:
+a&nbsp;Virgin in <i>terra invetriata</i>, by L. della Robbia; the bust
+of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by Bastianini; and a sketch
+of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the two little cells at the
+side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved some manuscripts,
+a&nbsp;crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him; as also his
+portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the Piazza della
+Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his companions. Proceeding
+along the corridor, in which there are no cells on the right for some
+distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto, the best being a
+“Coronation” in the third cell.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Academy of the Fine Arts.</span></p>
+
+<p>At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via
+Ricasoli, is the entrance to the <a name = "florence_fine_arts" id =
+"florence_fine_arts"><b>Academy of Fine Arts</b></a>. Open from 9 till
+3. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti.
+<span class = "pagenum">272</span>
+<a name = "page272" id = "page272"> </a>
+<!-- png 326 -->
+In the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L.
+della Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew
+of Robbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and
+of the Rape of the Sabines. A&nbsp;corridor, containing statues in
+stucco, to the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway,
+left hand, a&nbsp;door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the
+large pictures, with 124 paintings, by the following artists:
+M.&nbsp;Albertinelli, A. Allori, B.&nbsp;Angelico, Spinello Aretino,
+Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti, F.&nbsp;Boschi, Botticelli, Brina,
+Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese, A.&nbsp;Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue,
+Credi, Curradi, C.&nbsp;Dolci,&nbsp;I. Empoli, Gen. da Fabriano, A. and
+T.&nbsp;Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Ligozzi, Fra.
+F.&nbsp;Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco, S.&nbsp;P.
+Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D.&nbsp;Passignani, Perugino, F.&nbsp;Pesellino,
+Fra. P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C.&nbsp;Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A.
+del Sarto, L.&nbsp;Signorelli, G.&nbsp;A. Sogliani, A.&nbsp;Squazelli,
+Santi di Tito, Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the
+Baptism of Christ, by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator
+was painted by Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No.
+115, by Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the
+unearthly expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for
+many hours without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is
+followed by a chamber communicating with the <b>Tribune</b>, built in
+1875, for the celebrated statue of <i>David</i>, sculptured by Michael
+Angelo when 28 years of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza
+della Signoria, where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door
+opens into the Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The
+artists of a large number are unknown. The others are by
+B.&nbsp;Angelico, S. Aretino, M.&nbsp;Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti,
+B.&nbsp;Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da Bologna,
+S.&nbsp;Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A.&nbsp;Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio,
+Bicci di Lorenzo, G.&nbsp;Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of
+the small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already
+named, the most important being Fra. and B.&nbsp;Angelico, who, with
+Sandro Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di
+Credi, are better represented here than anywhere else. The most
+remarkable are 41, “The Day of Judgment,” by Fra. Angelico. 13,
+A&nbsp;“Nativity,” by L. di Credi; and 18, Portraits of two
+Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or Perugino. Beyond this is a
+collection of original designs in a room called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2
+and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and 12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9,
+10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19, Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F.
+Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">273</span>
+<a name = "page273" id = "page273"> </a>
+<!-- png 327 -->
+
+<p>From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri
+Moderni, a&nbsp;collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six
+rooms. The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello
+Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del
+Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517
+to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a
+good state of preservation.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_mosaics" id =
+"florence_mosaics">
+<span class = "headnote">Florence: Mosaics. Galleria dei Lavori in
+Pietre Dure.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani,
+is the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from
+10 to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases,
+specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the
+manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with
+explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and
+alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli,
+and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for
+sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous
+establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are
+sold here.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_palaces" id =
+"florence_palaces">
+The Palaces of Florence.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and
+gloomy aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3
+to 4&nbsp;feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist
+of coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and
+contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain
+wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets,
+while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near
+the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a
+“cantina,” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through,
+whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those
+that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted
+over this niche “Vino é Olio.” The empty bottle, with the money, having
+been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the
+first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and
+barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with
+bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of
+the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two
+different forms&mdash;a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile
+nearly semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the
+interstice between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the
+palaces is by a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court
+surrounded by
+<span class = "pagenum">274</span>
+<a name = "page274" id = "page274"> </a>
+<!-- png 328 -->
+an arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the
+highest storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are
+decorated, and the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and
+gilded, and contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of
+thin bricks, either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or
+<i>spina di pesce</i> fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces
+contain collections of works of art open to the public on certain days.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_pal_vecchio" id =
+"florence_pal_vecchio">
+Florence: Palazzo Vecchio.</a></span>
+Of these the best are&mdash;first, the <b>Palazzo Vecchio</b>, in the
+Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is
+surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an
+excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy
+court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi,
+substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8&nbsp;feet in
+circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat
+little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa
+Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and
+keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take
+first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber,
+170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540,
+who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling
+illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the
+second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’
+Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The
+lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala
+d’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door
+is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala
+d’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman
+history. It communicates with the Cappella S.&nbsp;Bernardo, beautifully
+painted in imitation of mosaic by R.&nbsp;Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel
+of St. Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de
+Toledo, painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow
+passage), is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an
+adjoining chamber painted by Poccetti.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence: Dante’s House.</span></p>
+
+<p>North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the <a name =
+"florence_dante_house" id = "florence_dante_house"><b>Via
+S.&nbsp;Martino</b></a>, in which is a house with a marble slab over the
+door, bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighieri
+nacque il Divino Poeta.” &mdash;<i>Dante.</i> He was married to Gemma in
+S.&nbsp;Martino, a&nbsp;humble little church close by, in the <b>Via dei
+Magazzini</b>. The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in
+the Palazzo Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni
+delle Bande Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo&nbsp;I.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">275</span>
+<a name = "page275" id = "page275"> </a>
+<!-- png 329 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Florence. Palazzo Strozzi, Corsini, Riccardi.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the Via Tornabuoni is the <a name = "florence_pal_strozzi" id =
+"florence_pal_strozzi"><b>Palazzo Strozzi</b></a>, open on Wednesdays
+from 11 to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork,
+rings, and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery
+on the first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and
+comfortably furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on
+a card. The two most remarkable are&mdash;<b>Portrait</b> of one of the
+ladies Strozzi by Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children,
+“La Puttina,” by Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the
+Piazza S.&nbsp;Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column
+of Oriental granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to
+Cosmo&nbsp;I. by Pius IV. A&nbsp;short way down the Arno (see plan), at
+No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the <a name = "florence_pal_corsini" id =
+"florence_pal_corsini"><b>Palazzo Corsini</b></a>, built (1618-56) by
+G.&nbsp;Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The collection of paintings,
+contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
+Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via Parione.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the church <a href = "#florence_san_giovannino">S.
+Giovannino</a> (see p. 264), at No.&nbsp;1 Via Cavour, is the Prefettura
+della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the <a name =
+"florence_pal_riccardi" id = "florence_pal_riccardi"><b>Palazzo
+Riccardi</b></a>, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the
+Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by
+Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici
+till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row
+of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base,
+rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the
+projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is
+composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the
+sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain
+beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the
+Biblioteca Riccardi, a&nbsp;picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered
+with most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by
+lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from
+12.30 till&nbsp;2.</p>
+
+<p>Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the
+Church of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose
+the remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the
+centre of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The
+frescoes in the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by
+Giovanni and Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by
+Ghirlandaio. A&nbsp;little way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti
+is the <a name = "florence_hospital" id =
+"florence_hospital"><b>Hospital S.&nbsp;Giovanni di Dio</b></a>, founded
+by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in which he lived and died stood on
+the site of the present No. 21 Borgo Ognissanti.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">276</span>
+<a name = "page276" id = "page276"> </a>
+<!-- png 330 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Park of Florence. Villa Careggi. Palazzo Torrigiani.</span></p>
+
+<p>At the west end of the town, near the <a name = "florence_park" id =
+"florence_park"><b>Porta Prato</b></a>, is the Cascine or Park of
+Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much frequented in the
+afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between the Porta Prato and
+the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is the hill <a href =
+"#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte Oliveto</a>, page 251. Nearly two miles
+north from the railway station by the Romito road is the <a name =
+"florence_villa_careggi" id = "florence_villa_careggi"><b>Villa
+Careggi</b></a>, built by Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which
+he died on August 1, 1464, as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th
+of April 1492. At the Ponte alle Grazie, the first bridge above the
+Ponte Vecchio, is the <a name = "florence_pal_torrigiani" id =
+"florence_pal_torrigiani"><b>Palazzo Torrigiani</b></a>, built by Baccio
+d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collection of paintings, accompanied
+with catalogues. Open daily excepting Saturdays and Sundays.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "fiesole" id = "fiesole">
+Fiesole.</a></h5>
+
+<p>At the east side of the town, by the <b>Via Alfieri</b> or
+<b>Pinti</b>, is the Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio
+and Amedeo, the latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the
+Porta S.&nbsp;Gallo. From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian
+city of Faesula, the modern <i>Fiesole</i>, 3&nbsp;miles from Florence,
+and about 600 feet above it, on the summit of a ridge composed of a
+dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to
+10 fr. From the Porta S.&nbsp;Gallo it is an easy walk of about 2½
+miles. See the excellent map of the environs (Dintorni) of Florence,
+published by the “Istituto Topografico Militare,” 1&nbsp;fr. Beyond the
+Porta S.&nbsp;Gallo take the road leading up the left or east bank of
+the Mugnone for about 1&nbsp;mile, as far as the Villa Palmieri, where,
+in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the road ascends
+between walls about 1&nbsp;mile more to the Church and Convent of
+S.&nbsp;Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The
+church contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a&nbsp;Baptism of Christ by
+Credi; a&nbsp;St. Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with
+Saints by B.&nbsp;Angelico. Near S.&nbsp;Domenico is the Villa Landore,
+which was occupied for many years by Walter Savage Landor. The road
+striking off to the left or towards the Mugnone, leads to the venerable
+abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road
+from St. Domenico to Fiesole is rather steep, and passes, at about
+two-thirds of the way, the beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens
+called the Villa Mozzi or Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo
+il Magnifico, and the place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in
+1478. A&nbsp;short way beyond, the road enters the Piazza of
+<i>Fiesole</i> (pop. 11,500. <i>Inns:</i> Locanda
+<span class = "pagenum">277</span>
+<a name = "page277" id = "page277"> </a>
+<!-- png 331 -->
+Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and stone-quarries. One
+side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, dedicated to St.
+Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S Miniato. To the
+right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop Salutati, and a
+marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The frescoes on the
+ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue of St. Romulus in
+a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. In a garden behind
+the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The road passing this
+garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed of huge
+uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and some of
+them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the
+commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a
+Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of
+S.&nbsp;Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+S. Salvi&mdash;Vencigliato&mdash;Settignano.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "san_salvi" id = "san_salvi"><span class = "smallcaps">S.
+Salvi. Vencigliato. Settignano.</span></a>&mdash;1¼ mile east from the
+Porta S.&nbsp;Croce, by the road following the railway, is
+S.&nbsp;Salvi, containing a Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the
+refectory. From S.&nbsp;Salvi northwards to the Via Settignano, which
+follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the road to the left going
+northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its union with the
+Frassinaia, is the <a name = "vencigliato" id = "vencigliato"><b>Castle
+of Vencigliato</b></a>, founded in the 10th cent., 5&nbsp;miles
+north-east from the Porta S.&nbsp;Croce, and situated on the summit of a
+hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored at the expense
+of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the part of
+Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is <a name =
+"settignano" id = "settignano"><b>Settignano</b></a>, the birthplace of
+Michael Angelo.</p>
+
+<p>Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence.
+The wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe.
+The straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and
+exposed for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is
+bought by the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of
+plaited straw to the hatters.</p>
+
+<p>The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally
+the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an
+inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of
+ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very
+nourishing to those who can digest them.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "florence_to_vallombrosa" id =
+"florence_to_vallombrosa">Excursion to Vallombrosa</a>, Camaldoli, and
+Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See <a href = "#map199">Map on page
+199</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To Vallombrosa. Take rail to <a name = "pontassieve" id =
+"pontassieve">Pontassieve</a>, 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11,000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Italia; where hire coach for Pelago,
+<span class = "pagenum">278</span>
+<a name = "page278" id = "page278"> </a>
+<!-- png 332 -->
+6&nbsp;miles east. Fare, 6&nbsp;fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). <i>Inn:</i> Buon
+Cuore; whence mule, 5&nbsp;fr., guide, 2&nbsp;fr., to Vallombrosa,
+8&nbsp;miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5½ miles from Pelago,
+and the rest by mule or on foot. At Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12
+fr. per day, or for four at 20 fr. per day, may be hired for visiting
+the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and
+proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina,
+and Poppi, 4&nbsp;miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses
+must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing
+path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to
+Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4&nbsp;miles northwards from
+Bibbiena.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vallombrosa.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the
+Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills crowned
+with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, intermingled
+with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents tumbling from the
+crags. <a name = "vallombrosa" id = "vallombrosa"><i>Vallombrosa</i></a>
+is situated 2980 feet above the sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno,
+which rises 2340 feet higher. Although the scenery does not agree
+altogether with Milton’s description in <i>Paradise Lost</i>, book iv.
+lines 131-159, it possesses that charming loveliness which inspired the
+divine poet with the ideas conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity
+is clothed with a “woody theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs,
+and beeches, which in ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade
+above shade; or hang from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant
+sides are with thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than
+their tops” an occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan
+scene, while on the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled
+colours mixed, from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged
+hills, and the wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia.
+The church and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied
+partly by a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet
+higher, by a winding path, is Il Paradisino, a&nbsp;little hermitage
+romantically situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The
+scagliola decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father
+<b>Hugford</b>, who excelled in various branches of natural philosophy,
+and in the art of imitating marble by that composition called scagliola.
+He died in the last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno
+occupies 1 hour; guide 2&nbsp;fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the
+mountain that shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends
+into the Val d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the
+middle of the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and
+behind it the villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Camaldoli. Sacro Eremo. Alvernia.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The abbey of <a name = "camaldoli" id =
+"camaldoli"><i>Camaldoli</i></a>, founded by S.&nbsp;Romualdo,
+a&nbsp;Calabrian anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana,
+in a valley surrounded by high mountains. About 2&nbsp;miles above the
+monastery, on a hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest,
+is <a name = "sacro_eremo" id = "sacro_eremo"><b>Il Sacro Eremo</b></a>,
+the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses an
+Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the
+ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of
+Italy.
+<span class = "pagenum">279</span>
+<a name = "page279" id = "page279"> </a>
+<!-- png 333 -->
+About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on <b>Mons Alvernus</b>, a&nbsp;lofty
+rock towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into
+numberless pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries
+hollowed out by nature, is situated the convent of <a name = "alvernia"
+id = "alvernia"><i>Alvernia</i></a>, founded by St. Francis in 1213, and
+inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a covered gallery leads to
+the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in which St. Francis is said
+to have received, imprinted on his body, marks similar to those produced
+on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion. From Camaldoli and from Alvernia
+return to Bibbiena, where the diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop.
+12,000, whence rail either to Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54
+miles north-west. The drive from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno,
+is very beautiful.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#florence">Florence</a> is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by
+Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by
+quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52 frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c.
+See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half, <a href = "#page233">page
+233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+(Paragraph shown as printed.)</p>
+
+<p>Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi,
+Orvieto, and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d
+class, 23 frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼&nbsp;m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli,
+Pontedera, and Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs.
+45 c.; 2d class, 7&nbsp;frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale.” To
+the price given in the Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be
+added.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Busalla. Novi.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "genoa_to_turin" id =
+"genoa_to_turin">
+Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. <a href =
+"#map199">Map, page 199</a>.</p>
+
+<p><b>Genoa.</b>&mdash;The train after traversing the first tunnel
+emerges at the busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼&nbsp;m. W. from
+Genoa and 2½ m. E. from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and
+ascends the valley of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing
+six tunnels. Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the
+train arrives at <a name = "busalla" id = "busalla"><b>Busalla</b></a>,
+14¼&nbsp;m. N. from Genoa and 89¼&nbsp;m. S. from Turin. Busalla is
+situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest
+which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here
+also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35
+in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390
+yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous
+schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been
+hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel
+at Arquata, 26&nbsp;m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the
+Scrivia. 33½&nbsp;m. N. from Genoa, and 70&nbsp;m. S. from Turin, is
+<a name = "novi" id = "novi"><b>Novi</b></a>, H.&nbsp;La Sirena,
+a&nbsp;town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in
+August 15, 1799, a&nbsp;great battle took
+<span class = "pagenum">280</span>
+<a name = "page280" id = "page280"> </a>
+<!-- png 334 -->
+place between the French under Joubert and the Austrians and Russians
+under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and their general killed.
+Novi is 60&nbsp;m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera, and
+<b>Pavia</b>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Alessandria.</span></p>
+
+<p>47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is <a name =
+"alessandria" id = "alessandria"><b>Alessandria</b></a>, pop. 30,000,
+234¼&nbsp;m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and
+Pistoja. See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half. See <a href =
+"#map199">map, page 199</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready.
+<i>Hotels:</i> L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name
+in compliment to Pope Alexander&nbsp;III. The citadel, capable of
+holding 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the
+modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal statue
+of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto
+and S.&nbsp;Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, was
+designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at
+Alessandria&mdash;one in April, the other in October. In the
+neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June
+1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first
+lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From
+Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the
+minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at
+34¾&nbsp;m. E. from Turin, and 68¾&nbsp;m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives
+at</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Asti.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "asti" id = "asti"><b>Asti</b></a> (the <i>Hasta Pampeia</i>,
+or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins), a&nbsp;place of 18,000 inhabitants.
+H.&nbsp;Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its sparking wines, both red and
+white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The
+adjacent church of S.&nbsp;Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which
+the existing part is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing
+Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandria is the small
+Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting on short columns with
+square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by
+his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The
+tertiary strata of the neighbourhood are very rich in fossils. Loop-line
+from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct
+over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at
+Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to <a href =
+"#savona">Savona</a>, 82½ m. S. (page 183), and to <a href =
+"#cuneo">Cuneo</a>, 46½&nbsp;m. S.W. (page 183).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking
+the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel&nbsp;I.
+died in 1823.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For <b>Turin</b>, see Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half. Loop-line
+to Pinerolo, 23½&nbsp;m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½&nbsp;m. farther
+west, in the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East
+half.</p>
+
+<p class = "mynote">
+Paragraph shown as printed.</p>
+
+<p class = "line">&nbsp;</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div itinerary -->
+
+<h3><a class = "turin" href = "turin.html">Italian Riviera and the
+Alps</a></h3>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/old/files/turin.html b/old/files/turin.html
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>The South of France&mdash;East Half (The Alps and Index)</title>
+<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+
+<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the
+text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover
+popups</ins>.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a>
+(<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate
+file</i>)<br>
+<a href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate file</i>)<br>
+<br>
+Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_contents">Itineraries</a><br>
+Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_maps">Maps</a><br>
+Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#paris_to_turin">Text</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href = "#index">General Index</a></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part3_contents" id = "part3_contents">ITINERARY</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 281&ndash;end)</span></h4>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_turin"><b>PARIS to TURIN</b></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Aix-les-Bains to Geneva</span></a> by Annecy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page286">286</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#modane_to_turin"><b>Modane to Turin</b></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bussoleno to <a href =
+"#susa">Susa</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin to <a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Pellice</a></b> by
+Pinerolo
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page305">305</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la
+Croix
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page306">306</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa
+to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col d’Abriés
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#perosa_to_cesanne"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to
+Cesanne</span></a> by the Col de Sestrières
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la
+Traversette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page308">308</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class = "smallcaps">Cuneo
+to Barcelonnette</span></a> (<i>see</i> <span class =
+"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#turin_to_florence"><b>TURIN to FLORENCE</b></a> by
+Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page309">309</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"><span class = "smallcaps">St.
+Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur</span></a> by the Little Saint Bernard
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page320">320</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane_lyons"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a> by
+Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the
+Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group
+of the Ecrin mountains
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page322">322</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble</a> to
+<a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page327">327</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble to Briançon</b></a> by
+Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A&nbsp;grand mountain road
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page328">328</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg
+d’Oisans</a> to <a href = "#la_berarde">La Berarde</a></span>, at the
+base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page329">329</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux</span></a> by La Bessée and the Val
+Louise
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a>,
+<a href = "#page345">345</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#briancon_to_oulx"><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to
+Oulx</span></a> by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_corps"><b>Grenoble to Corps</b></a> by La
+Mure (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>).
+From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (<a href =
+"#page340">p.&nbsp;340</a>). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to
+N.&nbsp;D. de la Salette
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin</a> to
+Allevard-les-Bains</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page336">336</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#marseilles_to_grenoble"><b>MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE</b></a>
+by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles
+and Claix (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map,
+p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page338">338</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban</a> to
+Digne</span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by La Javie and Seyne (<a
+href = "#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by Draix, Colmars and
+Allos
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b><a href = "#veynes">VEYNES</a> to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE</b>
+station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French
+end of several of the important passes between France and Italy
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page340">340</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#gap_to_barcelonnette"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to
+Barcelonnette</span></a>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span></a> (<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#gap_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to
+Grenoble</span></a> by Corps (<a href = "#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page342">342</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo</span></a> (<a href = "#map304">map,
+p.&nbsp;304</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page344">344</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span></a> by Saint Etienne (<a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page346">346</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_tarare"><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to
+Lyons</span></a> by Tarare (<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page348">348</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#lyons_to_clermont"><span class = "smallcaps">Lyons to
+Clermont-Ferrand</span></a> by Montbrison (<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page349">349</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Paris to Marseilles</span></a> by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes
+(see <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page351">351</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the
+Baths of <a href =
+"#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault</a></span> by Souvigny and
+Saint Menoux (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
+p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page356">356</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the
+Baths of <a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy</a></span> by
+Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (<a class = "paris"
+href = "paris.html#page27">p.&nbsp;27</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map1">map p.&nbsp;1</a>)
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page357">357</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St.
+Germain-des-Fossés</a> to <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#clermont_to_brive"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</span></a> by Laqueuille
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page376">376</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille</a> to
+the Baths of <a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore and Bourboule</a></span>
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page377">377</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#mont_dore_to_issoire"><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dore
+to Issoire</span></a> by the Baths of St. Nectaire
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#page385">385</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+
+<div class = "toc">
+
+<h4><a name = "part3_maps" id = "part3_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br>
+<span class = "smaller">(pages 281&ndash;end)</span></h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;
+<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Bologna</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map316">316</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont Cenis railway</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map291"><ins class = "correction" title
+= "text reads ‘191’">291</ins></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "notation">
+This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane
+and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to
+Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
+Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mont-Dore</b> and <b>Bourboule</b>, Map of environs
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map378">378</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>The French and Italian Waldensian valleys</b>, with the
+mountain-passes between them
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map304">304</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Turin</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map293">293</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p><b>Vichy</b>, Plan of
+<span class = "page"><a href = "#map359">359</a></span>
+</p>
+
+</div> <!-- end div toc -->
+
+<div class = "itinerary">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">281</span>
+<a name = "page281" id = "page281"> </a>
+<!-- png 335 -->
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_turin" id =
+"paris_to_turin">
+Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.</a></h4>
+
+<h5 class = "long">
+By <span class = "smallcaps">Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Bourg,
+Ambérieux, Culoz, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, Modane</span>, and <span
+class = "smallcaps">Mont Cenis</span>. The continuation of this line
+southwards from Turin extends <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa by Alessandria</a> (page
+279).</h5>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<b>Part First.</b>&mdash;<span class = "smallcaps">Paris to
+Modane</span>, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. <b>Part
+Second.</b>&mdash;<span class = "smallcaps">Modane to Turin</span>, 58½
+miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.</p>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+<i>Time-tables.</i>&mdash;In England, see under “London to Turin” in the
+Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which
+Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the
+Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their
+Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and
+Chambery. For the whole route consult the <a href =
+"main.html#map_flyleaf">Sketch Map on the fly-leaf</a>. For the
+northern part, between Paris and Macon, see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map1">map, page 1</a>; and from Macon to Turin, <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, page 26</a>.</p>
+
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane" id =
+"paris_to_modane">
+<b>PART I.</b>&mdash;PARIS TO MODANE.</a></h5>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles to">431</span>
+<b>PARIS.</b> In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de
+Lyon Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café
+Restaurant. A&nbsp;little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good
+restaurant also in the station. For the first 274&nbsp;m. between Paris
+and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates
+from this one. At <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#montereau">Montereau</a>, 49½&nbsp;m. from Paris
+(p.&nbsp;10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At <a class
+= "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche</a> (p.&nbsp;14) both
+the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre</a> (p.&nbsp;17) they halt again 5 min.
+At <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>
+(p.&nbsp;19) the Express halts 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#dijon">Dijon</a> (p.&nbsp;20) both halt 6 min. At <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#macon">Macon</a> (p.&nbsp;26) they halt 5
+min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Marseilles line, and
+goes 23&nbsp;m. E. to Bourg, 297&nbsp;m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the
+church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line
+traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97&nbsp;m. W. (See
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>; and
+for description, Black’s <i>France</i>, North half<ins class =
+"correction" title = ") missing">.)</ins> 5½&nbsp;m. S.E. from Bourg the
+line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives
+at <a name = "amberieu" id = "amberieu"><b>Ambérieu</b></a>,
+316¼&nbsp;m. S.E. from Paris, and 114¾&nbsp;m. N.W. from Modane. At
+Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Ambérieu,
+pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura
+mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32½&nbsp;m. west. From
+Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11&nbsp;m. S. through a mountainous
+country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron
+near its junction with the Rhône. Between Ambérieu and Culoz the rail
+passes through the last ramifications of the Jura
+<span class = "pagenum">282</span>
+<a name = "page282" id = "page282"> </a>
+<!-- png 336 -->
+mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.
+Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.
+The view is admirable&mdash;on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes
+of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends
+to Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lagnieu. Virieu le Grand. Culoz.</span></p>
+
+<p>8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is <a name =
+"lagnieu" id = "lagnieu"><b>Lagnieu</b></a>, pop. 3500, station for
+<a name = "la_balme" id = "la_balme"><b>La Balme</b></a>, pop. 1000,
+3&nbsp;m. S.W., on south side of Rhône. There is a cave here with great
+galleries and stalactites, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and
+13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons
+steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the
+entrance into the grotto.</p>
+
+<p>From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which,
+after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7&nbsp;m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild
+and imposing. At Tenay, <i>Inn:</i> Pittion, 4¼&nbsp;m. farther, the
+train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to</p>
+
+<p><a name = "virieu_le_grand" id = "virieu_le_grand"><b>Virieu le
+Grand</b></a>, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with
+loop-line to Belley, 9½&nbsp;m. S., pop. 5000; <i>Inns:</i> Rey; Camus,
+with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½&nbsp;m. from Paris
+and 19¼&nbsp;m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of
+Cerveyrieu.</p>
+
+<p>347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N.
+from Modane, is <a name = "culoz" id = "culoz"><b>Culoz</b></a>, on the
+Rhône, about ¾&nbsp;m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop.
+1200. Near the station are the inns *H.&nbsp;Folliet; H.&nbsp;Mémon.
+A&nbsp;great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41&nbsp;m. N.E.
+is Geneva; see Black’s <i>North France</i>, and <a class = "paris" href
+= "paris.html#map27">map p.&nbsp;26</a>. 4½&nbsp;m. S. from Culoz and
+10&nbsp;m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. above the sea, on
+the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by row-boat from Aix.
+In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view of the lake, Pope
+Celestin was born.</p>
+
+<p>Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10&nbsp;m. long, from 2 to
+3&nbsp;m. wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by
+the steep ridge of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the
+<a name = "mont_chat" id = "mont_chat">Col du Mont Chat</a>, 2070 ft., and
+immediately to the S. a&nbsp;bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302
+ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., after
+a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the lake
+and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the summits
+of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain of Aix
+(see <a href = "#aix_bains_other">page 285</a>). It is ascended from the
+village of Mouxy in about 4 hrs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The
+lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad,
+carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">283</span>
+<a name = "page283" id = "page283"> </a>
+<!-- png 337 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aix-les-Bains. Hotels.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">362</span>
+<span class = "miles to">69</span>
+<a name = "aix_les_bains" id = "aix_les_bains"><b>AIX-LES-BAINS</b></a>,
+850 ft. above the sea, 1½&nbsp;m. from Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The
+Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending to the
+railway station. First-class hotels&mdash;their pension is from 12 to 20
+frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On
+each side of the Casino are the *H.&nbsp;Aix, with garden, and the
+Univers. Opposite are the H.&nbsp;de la Galerie and the Nord. Then
+follow the <a name = "aix_bains_hotels" id =
+"aix_bains_hotels"><i>Hotels</i></a>: *Europe; *Venat, with large
+garden; and opposite, at the end of R. du Casino, the H.&nbsp;Genève.
+Second-class houses: in the parallel street, the R.&nbsp;Genève, behind
+the R. du Casino, are the H.&nbsp;Durand; *Gaillard; in the Place
+Centrale the H.&nbsp;Poste. Opposite the H.&nbsp;Poste is the office
+whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons steamboats, and
+for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H.&nbsp;de
+l’Etablissement. In front, the H.&nbsp;de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in
+the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H.&nbsp;Germain.
+A&nbsp;little beyond is the H.&nbsp;Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last,
+the H.&nbsp;Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above
+second-class houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the
+H.&nbsp;des Bergues.</p>
+
+<p>On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel,
+a&nbsp;really splendid first-class house. Below it is the
+H.&nbsp;Beau-Site, also a new but a smaller first-class house.</p>
+
+<p>The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the
+left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”</p>
+
+<p>Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple,
+behind the H.&nbsp;Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aix-les-Bains: Cabs.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "aix_bains_cabs" id = "aix_bains_cabs"><i>Cabs or
+Fiacres.</i></a>&mdash;One-horse cab&mdash;3 frs. for the first hour;
+every succeeding hour, 2&nbsp;frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse
+cab&mdash;for first hour, 4&nbsp;frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.;
+per day, 20 frs. Riding horses&mdash;two hours, 4&nbsp;frs.
+Donkeys&mdash;one hour, 1&nbsp;fr.; half-day, 4&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted
+up for the external application of the water, very little being drunk.
+Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind
+the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½
+fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°,
+114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime,
+magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath
+with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent.,
+with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the
+arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de
+Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A&nbsp;handsome
+<span class = "pagenum">284</span>
+<a name = "page284" id = "page284"> </a>
+<!-- png 338 -->
+stone stair of fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round
+columns, leads up to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On
+the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a&nbsp;door opens
+into what is called the Temple of Diana, a&nbsp;large rectangular hall
+of coarse masonry, recently restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc
+Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish church, and the park. The waters used for
+drinking are the cold sulphur springs, situated a little way out of
+town.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "aix_bains_springs" id =
+"aix_bains_springs">
+<span class = "headnote">Aix-les-Bains: Springs.
+Excursions.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at <a name = "challes"
+id = "challes"><b>Challes</b></a>, 900 ft. above the sea, and 45 min.
+distant by omnibus from Chambery. <i>Hotels:</i> Château de Challes;
+Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for indigestion and liver
+complaints, but especially for laryngeal affections.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral
+water establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all
+within a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with
+bromine and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from
+the town by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy
+spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric
+diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "aix_bains_excursions" id =
+"aix_bains_excursions"><b>Excursions from
+Aix-les-Bains.</b></a>&mdash;The steamer on certain days makes the tour
+of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief is the
+Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two men,
+9&nbsp;frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5&nbsp;frs.; Bonport, 4&nbsp;frs.;
+Châtillon, 14 frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry
+more than six passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the
+lake&mdash;one horse, 11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.</p>
+
+<p>The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
+1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft.
+long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The
+interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white
+fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near
+Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of
+Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on
+the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of
+Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the
+right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in
+the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.</p>
+
+<p>About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of
+the lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To
+reach it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and
+horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The
+<span class = "pagenum">285</span>
+<a name = "page285" id = "page285"> </a>
+<!-- png 339 -->
+fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the
+village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which
+rises the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Mont Chat</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;282).</p>
+
+<p><a name = "aix_bains_other" id = "aix_bains_other"><i>Other
+Excursions.</i></a>&mdash;To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109
+ft., good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E.
+the Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The
+Rocher de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5
+hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by
+mule-path; there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45
+minutes, 3&nbsp;m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5&nbsp;m., the
+defile of the Combes and the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de
+Gigot, 2680 and 2762&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Grotto of Banges. Le Châtelard.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "banges" id = "banges"><b>Aix to the Grotto of
+Banges</b></a>, <i>by Gresy and Cusy.</i>&mdash; Seat in car there and
+back, 5&nbsp;frs. About 3&nbsp;m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty
+waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to
+an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on
+a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On
+the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of
+St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular
+obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de
+Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in
+between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de
+Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance,
+approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.</p>
+
+<p>This road may be continued to <a name = "le_chatelard" id =
+"le_chatelard"><b>Le Châtelard</b></a>, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500
+ft. above the sea; <i>Inns:</i> Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This
+is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13&nbsp;m.
+long and 8&nbsp;m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and
+surrounded by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the
+manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants,
+of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical
+position, resembles <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le
+Beage</a> (p.&nbsp;84).</p>
+
+<p>The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which
+separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the
+Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W.,
+and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de
+Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.</p>
+
+<p>At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26&nbsp;m. N.,
+whence a diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½&nbsp;m. farther N. by
+Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map27">map, p.&nbsp;27</a>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">286</span>
+<a name = "page286" id = "page286"> </a>
+<!-- png 340 -->
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "aix_les_bains_to_geneva" id =
+"aix_les_bains_to_geneva">
+Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½&nbsp;m. from Annecy, is
+<a name = "lovagny" id = "lovagny"><b>Lovagny</b></a>, the station to
+alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about
+10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a
+bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and
+tickets, 1&nbsp;fr. each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same
+nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery,
+or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an average 72 ft. above the
+torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical
+cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. apart.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3½ m. farther by rail is</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "annecy" id = "annecy"><b>Annecy</b></a>, pop. 11,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head
+of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the
+steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the
+Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily.
+Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23&nbsp;m. N., passing the villages of
+Plot and La Roche; also to <a href = "#albertville">Albertville</a>,
+28&nbsp;m. N., on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page
+320).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the
+north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in
+Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of
+Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the
+Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is
+another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both
+modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected
+by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend,
+inhabited adjoins this chapel.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar
+in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale.
+The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at
+the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de
+Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the
+Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace,
+with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the
+Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by
+Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at
+Talloires in 1748.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the
+sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which
+the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. above the
+lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a
+comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2&nbsp;m. east
+from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of
+his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small
+square tower. On the morning of August&nbsp;1, 1857, he took his
+<span class = "pagenum">287</span>
+<a name = "page287" id = "page287"> </a>
+<!-- png 341 -->
+last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and
+died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a
+little farther south, above the village of Veyrier.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "leschaux" id = "leschaux">
+<span class = "headnote">Leschaux. Cruseilles</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the
+birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the
+hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the
+right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south
+extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into
+the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for
+Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this
+neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148
+ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of
+Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10&nbsp;m. S. from Annecy, and
+14&nbsp;m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village.
+The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt,
+at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake.
+(See map of Mt. Cenis, <a href = "#map291">p.&nbsp;291</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny,
+where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became
+successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles,
+and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille,
+18&nbsp;m. from Geneva, a&nbsp;small village near the suspension bridge,
+212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the
+torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+16½ m. from Geneva is <a name = "cruseilles" id =
+"cruseilles"><b>Cruseilles</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the
+sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586
+ft., and then descends to Chable. 10&nbsp;m. farther is St. Julien, 1535
+ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½&nbsp;m. from Geneva.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chambery.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">370¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">60¼</span>
+<a name = "chambery" id = "chambery"><b>CHAMBERY</b></a>, pop. 20,000,
+and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving late should spend the
+night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to Turin.
+<i>Hotels.</i>&mdash;Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain.
+France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe,
+near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it
+is the Temple Protestant.</p>
+
+<p><b>Chambery</b> is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains.
+The first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station
+is the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du
+Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de
+Boigne. It consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned
+with a statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de
+Boigne is the <b>Château</b>, formerly the residence of the Dukes of
+Savoy, built in 1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by
+the road round from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens.
+Within the precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having
+<span class = "pagenum">288</span>
+<a name = "page288" id = "page288"> </a>
+<!-- png 342 -->
+attached to it one of the old massive round towers, ascended by a most
+handsome staircase of 160 low broad steps to within a short distance of
+the top, attained by 36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is
+the entrance to the Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History
+Museum is in the Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is
+very pleasing, and overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite
+the tower is the Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The
+three tall windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is
+covered with stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting
+between the nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted,
+but on a blue ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was
+built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chambery: Church of Lemenc. J. J. Rousseau.</span></p>
+
+<p>The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de
+Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais
+de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a
+bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on
+the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la
+Visitation and the <a name = "chambery_church_lemenc" id =
+"chambery_church_lemenc"><b>Church of Lemenc</b></a>. The upper church
+of Lemenc is of the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is
+of the 7th cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six
+feet in diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the
+upper Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint
+Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago.
+His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.
+In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of
+Madame de Warrens.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "chambery_rousseau" id =
+"chambery_rousseau"><b>Excursions.</b></a>&mdash;The house which Jean
+Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395
+ft. above and 2&nbsp;m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with
+walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on
+entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch,
+opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each
+other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room
+was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room
+above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s.
+From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft.,
+ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View
+not equal to that from the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Chat</a>
+(p.&nbsp;282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the
+Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria
+may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold
+sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of <a href = "#challes">Challes</a>
+(p.&nbsp;284).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">289</span>
+<a name = "page289" id = "page289"> </a>
+<!-- png 343 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">376</span>
+<span class = "miles to">55</span>
+<a name = "les_marches_1" id = "les_marches_1"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a
+straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image
+of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the
+Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial
+landslip of Mt. Granier.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">378</span>
+<span class = "miles to">53</span>
+<a name = "montmelian_stn" id = "montmelian_stn"><b>MONTMÉLIAN</b></a>,
+pop. 1200. <i>Inn:</i> Voyageurs. Junction with line to Grenoble, for
+which change carriages (<a href =
+"#marseilles_to_grenoble">p.&nbsp;338</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Pierre d’Albigny. Aiguebelle.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">358¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">45¾</span>
+<a name = "st_pierre_dalbigny" id = "st_pierre_dalbigny"><b>ST. PIERRE
+D’ALBIGNY</b></a>, 971 ft. (<a href = "#map291">map, p.&nbsp;291</a>),
+pop. 3300, 1½&nbsp;m. from its station. <i>Inns:</i> At station:
+H.&nbsp;des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with
+line to Albertville, 14&nbsp;m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy,
+28&nbsp;m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges;
+<i>Inn:</i> Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on
+the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine
+passes (see <a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">p.&nbsp;321</a>). From St.
+Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the
+immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many
+places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford
+protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards,
+orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from
+these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel,
+2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3&nbsp;m. of La
+Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in
+terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and
+arid.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">332</span>
+<span class = "miles to">39</span>
+<a name = "aiguebelle" id = "aiguebelle"><b>AIGUEBELLE</b></a>, pop.
+1100. H.&nbsp;de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles
+Felix. The valley now begins to widen.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">409</span>
+<span class = "miles to">22</span>
+<a name = "la_chambre" id = "la_chambre"><b>LA CHAMBRE</b></a>, pop.
+800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the
+right, is the valley of the Glandon.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">414½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">16½</span>
+<a name = "st_jean_de_maurienne" id =
+"st_jean_de_maurienne"><b>SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE</b></a>, pop. 3200.
+<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in
+the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some
+beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster,
+and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous
+mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">421</span>
+<span class = "miles to">10</span>
+<a name = "st_michel" id = "st_michel"><b>ST. MICHEL</b></a>, pop. 3000.
+A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the
+foot of high mountains. <i>Inn:</i> Poste, near the post office. From
+St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz,
+6&nbsp;m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">290</span>
+<a name = "page290" id = "page290"> </a>
+<!-- png 344 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Modane.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">431</span>
+<a name = "modane" id = "modane"><b>MODANE STATION</b></a>, 3445 ft.
+above the sea, and 727&nbsp;m. from London, is really part of the
+village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train
+passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at
+station. Opposite station&mdash;<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel International, where
+comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the
+neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are
+also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined
+here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery
+on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller
+ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no
+part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is
+reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10&nbsp;m., with a gradient of 2½
+per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and
+5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than
+Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a
+little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lans-le-Bourg. Les Tavernettes.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_susa" id =
+"modane_to_susa">
+Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Modane a carriage-road leads over the <a name = "mont_cenis" id =
+"mont_cenis"><b>Pass of Mont Cenis</b></a> to Susa, 40&nbsp;m. distant
+by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is
+Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this
+are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a
+steep winding path. 8¾&nbsp;m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road
+crosses the Arc; 10¾&nbsp;m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the
+Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea,
+at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a
+curious belfry; 18&nbsp;m. <a name = "lans_le_bourg" id =
+"lans_le_bourg"><b>Lans-le-Bourg</b></a>, pop. 1500, consisting
+principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the
+base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is
+commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge.
+At the culminating point, 6882 ft. above the sea, is the inn Ramasse.
+The road now descends. 13&nbsp;m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is
+<a name = "les_tavernettes" id = "les_tavernettes"><b>Les
+Tavernettes</b></a>, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is
+1¼&nbsp;m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one
+of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10&nbsp;m. from
+Susa and 29½&nbsp;m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the
+great plateau. 2&nbsp;m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069
+ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more
+rapid. 4½&nbsp;m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about
+3&nbsp;m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid
+views and rich vegetation (<a href = "#susa">Susa</a>, see page
+291).</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">MONT CENIS RAILWAY<br>
+St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.<br>
+modane to susa by langlebourg</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 345 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 291</span>
+<a name = "map291" id = "map291" href = "images/map291.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map291thumb.png" width = "491" height = "374"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">291</span>
+<a name = "page291" id = "page291"> </a>
+<!-- png 346 -->
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_turin" id =
+"modane_to_turin">
+<b>PART II.</b>&mdash;MODANE TO TURIN.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+See <a href = "#map291">Map of Mont Cenis Railway</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "miles to">58½</span>
+<b>MODANE.</b> At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta
+Italia Railway Company.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best
+time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate,”
+1&nbsp;fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway
+stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or Latrine, or
+Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei
+fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E&nbsp;vietato il fumare. Way out,
+Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "miles from">5</span>
+<span class = "miles to">53½</span>
+<a name = "bardonnecchia" id = "bardonnecchia"><b>BARDONNECCHIA</b></a>,
+4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in
+the town the Hôtel de France.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile
+country than that above Modane.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "miles from">12</span>
+<span class = "miles to">46½</span>
+<a name = "oulx" id = "oulx"><b>OULX</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft.
+high. <i>Inn:</i> Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the station.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17&nbsp;m. S.W. by
+Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte
+Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius,
+who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the
+beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, <i>Hist. Nat.</i>, lib. iii. cap.
+20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road
+from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now <a href
+= "#embrun">Embrun</a>, on the Durance (see page 343).</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "miles from">21¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">36¾</span>
+<a name = "chiomonte" id = "chiomonte"><b>CHIOMONTE</b></a>, 2526 ft.
+Beyond are some charming views.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "miles from">25½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">33</span>
+<a name = "meana" id = "meana"><b>MEANA</b></a>, 1 m. from Susa, and 325
+ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods,
+crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30½&nbsp;m. from Modane,
+whence a loop-line of 5&nbsp;m. extends to <a name = "susa" id =
+"susa"><b>Susa</b></a>, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. <i>Hotels:</i> France;
+Soleil.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who
+inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.
+above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch
+erected about 8 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> in honour of
+Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes
+on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral,
+San Giusto, dates from the llth cent.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the
+foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the
+plain. On the summit is the convent of S.&nbsp;Michele della Chiusa,
+founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially
+repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele&nbsp;II. The government
+intend to establish a meteorological station here. A&nbsp;good mule-path
+leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of
+S.&nbsp;Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+<!-- png 348 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 293</span>
+<a name = "map293" id = "map293" href = "images/map293.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map293thumb.png" width = "453" height = "382"
+alt = "plan of Turin" title = "TURIN"></a>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">292</span>
+<a name = "page292" id = "page292"> </a>
+<!-- png 347 -->
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "turin" id = "turin">
+TURIN,</a></h5>
+
+<p>pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea,
+and 490&nbsp;m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the
+tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the
+Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city,
+that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen
+speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of
+reserve of Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the
+Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite
+residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of
+S.&nbsp;Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in
+1498. Francis&nbsp;I. so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire
+reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well
+paved, and pass through spacious squares ornamented with statues and
+bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the
+western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele&nbsp;II. and the streets
+ramifying southwards from this.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_hotels" id =
+"turin_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>&mdash;The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello.
+In the same square, and less expensive, is the H.&nbsp;di Londra. This
+piazza is in the neighbourhood of the principal sights, and is the
+terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are:
+the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14
+Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is
+at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois
+church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H.&nbsp;Feder, 8
+Via S.&nbsp;Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre;
+and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme
+(Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse;
+H.&nbsp;Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et
+Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po;
+Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana
+Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via
+Lagrange.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_cabs" id = "turin_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>&mdash;One
+horse, from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> till midnight, the
+course, 1&nbsp;fr. First half-hour, 1&nbsp;fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each
+successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span>, 1¼ fr. From the central station to any part of
+the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr.
+additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a
+cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway
+carriage, 1 sou.</p>
+
+<p>Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams
+<span class = "pagenum">293</span>
+<a name = "page293" id = "page293"> </a>
+<!-- png 349 -->
+run from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond
+the suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of
+the steam-trams from 12 sous to 3&nbsp;frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams
+no more than four may occupy one seat.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Stations.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_stations" id =
+"turin_stations"><i>Stations.</i></a>&mdash;The most important is the
+<b>Central Station</b>, a&nbsp;well-situated and well-arranged and
+spacious edifice. On a tablet on the departure side is an inscription to
+the honour of George and Robert Stephenson. Parallel to the station is
+the wide and handsome Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city
+from east to west, having at the eastern end the Po and the Giardino
+Pubblico, and at the western the model prison, the Carcere giudiziario,
+the artillery barracks, and the cattle-market. In front of the station
+is a bronze statue of Massimo d’Azeglio, a&nbsp;poet and painter, who
+died in 1866, one of those who helped to throw off the yoke of Rome.
+Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza Carlo Felice, and the straight
+street, the Via Roma, extending to the Piazza Castello, by the Piazza
+S.&nbsp;Carlo, with, in the centre, a&nbsp;bronze equestrian statue,
+modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy,
+and son of Carlo&nbsp;III. il Buono. He died in 1580. The attitude is
+rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the west end of the Piazza
+dello Statuto, communicates with the P.&nbsp;Castello by the Via
+Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of plan, at
+the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza dello
+Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in the
+shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn
+granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white
+marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter
+make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni,
+and Grandi.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Post Office. Booksellers.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_post" id = "turin_post"><i>Post and telegraph
+offices</i></a> are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the side of the
+<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano</a> (p.&nbsp;297).
+Stamps are sold at all the tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the
+P.&nbsp;Castello, and connected with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade,
+covered with glass, and bordered on both sides with well-stocked
+shops.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_booksellers" id =
+"turin_booksellers"><i>Booksellers.</i></a>&mdash;For maps of Italy,
+Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both
+in the Via di&nbsp;Po.</p>
+
+<p>Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal
+streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in
+all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The
+same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_theatres" id =
+"turin_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>&mdash;See list on plan. A short
+way east from the central
+<span class = "pagenum">294</span>
+<a name = "page294" id = "page294"> </a>
+<!-- png 350 -->
+station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in
+1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio
+Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue,
+a&nbsp;handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like
+cupolas.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Sights.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "turin_sights" id =
+"turin_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>&mdash;The museums and picture gallery
+(Pinacoteca) in the “Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the
+Piazza Carignano and another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze.
+Nearly opposite is the Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and
+mineralogical collections. The white marble statue in front represents
+the philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house
+opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte
+Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E&nbsp;vi
+mori il 6 Giugno 1861.<ins class = "correction"
+title = "close quote missing">” </ins>The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria
+Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal
+Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni.
+A&nbsp;walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All
+the above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The
+only one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side
+street,&nbsp;V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram
+from the Piazza Castello.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Palazzo dell’ Accademia. Museum of Antiquities.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_accademia" id =
+"turin_pal_accademia">
+The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was
+built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast
+earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and
+cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more
+massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second
+story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen
+rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1&nbsp;fr. On Sundays and feast-days
+free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained
+in two halls. <b>Hall 1.</b> Left. In the centre, against the wall,
+under an inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the
+gem of the collection, a&nbsp;black basalt statue of Sesostris,
+Rameses&nbsp;II., 1388 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> On his
+right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of
+Amenophis&nbsp;II., 1565 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, and on
+his left a small black basalt statue of Amenophis&nbsp;II., the god
+Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting posture, representing the
+Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At the head of this hall is
+the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti&nbsp;II., in whose reign the
+exodus of the Israelites took place. From
+<span class = "pagenum">295</span>
+<a name = "page295" id = "page295"> </a>
+<!-- png 351 -->
+this a room ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman
+statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Parallel to Hall 1 is <b>Hall 2</b>. At the head of this hall, in a
+sitting posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 <span
+class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, who was one of the most powerful of
+the Pharaohs.</p>
+
+<p>Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in
+three large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall,
+left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a
+table covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654
+<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A&nbsp;little farther down, in
+the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula
+Isiaca, a&nbsp;bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. wide, inlaid
+with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of Hadrian.
+Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads to the
+smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a colossal
+bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily work the
+oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found at
+Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician terracotta
+figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient iron
+ornaments, lamps, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Centre Hall</b> contains idols, jewellery, amulets,
+sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by
+the Israelites.</p>
+
+<p>In the <b>Third Hall</b> are the Papyri, of which the most important
+are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, <b>The Book
+of the Dead</b>, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain
+vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous
+annals of <b>Manetho</b>, which contained a list of more than 300 kings
+of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Picture Gallery.</span></p>
+
+<p>In the second story is the <a name = "turin_gallery" id =
+"turin_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. All the paintings are
+labelled. In <b>Room 1</b> are portraits of princes of the house of
+Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. <b>Room 2.</b> In this
+room are excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari,
+No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54,
+Descent from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. <b>Rooms 3</b>
+and <b>4</b>. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin
+painter, 90, a&nbsp;Landscape. <b>Room 5.</b> Italian paintings of the
+14th, 15th, and 16th cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on
+silk; Bronzino, 127 and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her
+husband, Cosimo&nbsp;I. de Medici. <b>Room 6.</b> J. da Ponte (II
+Bassano), 148, Portrait; P.&nbsp;Caliari (Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of
+Sheba presenting
+<span class = "pagenum">296</span>
+<a name = "page296" id = "page296"> </a>
+<!-- png 352 -->
+gifts to Solomon; A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161,
+Musician; J.&nbsp;Robusti (Il Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. <b>Room
+7.</b> Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome.
+<b>Room 8.</b> Enamels and paintings on porcelain by Constantin of
+Geneva. <b>Room 9.</b> A small room entirely filled with fruit and
+flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 and 10 is a dark lobby,
+hung also with pictures. <b>Room 10.</b> Continuation of the Italian
+school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B.&nbsp;Strozzi, 232, Portrait of
+Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary
+Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids;
+G.&nbsp;Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G.&nbsp;F.
+Barbieri (Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S.&nbsp;Francesca Romana, and in next
+room, Return of Prodigal Son. <b>Room 11.</b> A.&nbsp;Canale (Il
+Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal Palace, Venice; F.&nbsp;Albani, 260, 264,
+271, and 274, The Four Elements; S.&nbsp;Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away;
+275, Solomon burns the Idols; C.&nbsp;Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna;
+B.&nbsp;Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old Bridge across the
+Po. <b>Room 12.</b> Flemish and German school: Acken (Bosch), 309, an
+Adoration; G.&nbsp;Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van des Weyden,
+312, *Madonna; F.&nbsp;Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and Gentlemen; Van
+Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles&nbsp;I. of England; *The
+Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of his apotheosis
+of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. <b>Room 13.</b> Containing the
+gems of the collection: A.&nbsp;Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and
+Saints; L.&nbsp;Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G.&nbsp;F. Barbieri
+(Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven
+Sorrows of the Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant
+Church, the figures by A.&nbsp;Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian
+portrait of the Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384,
+Holy Family; D.&nbsp;Teniers, 364, Tavern; G.&nbsp;Ferrari, 371, Jesus
+giving up the Ghost; Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello,
+375, Virgin and child in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of
+Lucretia; P.&nbsp;Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow;
+H.&nbsp;Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. <b>Room 14.</b> Dutch and
+German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in
+Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P.&nbsp;P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection
+of Lazarus; C.&nbsp;Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; Teniers
+(the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. <b>Room
+15.</b> French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483,
+Landscapes;&nbsp;I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge.
+Catalogues sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">297</span>
+<a name = "page297" id = "page297"> </a>
+
+<!-- png 353 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Palazzo Carignano. Royal Armoury.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_carignano" id =
+"turin_pal_carignano">
+Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is
+the Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured
+brick; but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing
+than those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the
+façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the
+words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele&nbsp;II.” Within is a high and
+spacious court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting
+the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by
+Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built
+in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also
+<a href = "#turin_stations">p.&nbsp;293</a>.) In this palace, magnificently
+housed, are the zoological and mineralogical collections. Open daily,
+1&nbsp;fr. Sundays and feast-days free.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_armoury" id = "turin_armoury">
+Royal Armoury.</a></h5>
+
+<p>No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3&nbsp;free.
+On other days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is
+of great interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is
+filled chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first
+room is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo
+Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in
+battle. In the large hall are two rows of armed knights and
+foot-soldiers. At the head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301,
+is an embossed oval shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a
+fringe of massive gold thread. On five medallions are represented, in
+<i>alto-relievo</i>, scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It
+belongs to the school of Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the
+latter half of the 16th cent., and was presented to the university of
+Turin by the Princess Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the
+relics are the sword worn by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the
+saddle of Charles&nbsp;V., and some beautifully inlaid body-armour of
+the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at the end of this hall opens into
+the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing 30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient
+coins and medals, including a complete series of those struck in the
+State of Sardinia; and also 5000 medallions, seals and stamps. In this
+same part is the Biblioteca del Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS.,
+numerous autographs, engravings and drawings by the great masters. To
+visit these special permission must be obtained. From the windows of the
+armoury is a view of the palace-gardens.
+<span class = "pagenum">298</span>
+<a name = "page298" id = "page298"> </a>
+<!-- png 354 -->
+At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro Regio, considered
+the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for 2500, and is open
+only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "turin_royal_palace" id =
+"turin_royal_palace">
+Turin: Royal Palace.</a></span>
+In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a
+plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza
+Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance,
+turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass
+door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo&nbsp;I. (died 1675) in a
+niche at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the
+horse in marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two
+flights of narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the
+servants will be found who show the palace. Fee, 1&nbsp;fr.; party,
+2&nbsp;frs. After the guardroom succeeds a series of rooms with much
+gilding, inlaid floors, and rich furniture. The pictures are all modern,
+and of no great merit. The room called Maria Theresa’s contains some
+fine china vases.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: The Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_cathedral" id =
+"turin_cathedral">
+The Cathedral.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Adjoining the western end of the palace is the <b>Cathedral San
+Giovanni Battista</b>. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal
+family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps
+each, is the <b>Cappella del Sudario</b> (open till 9 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span>), a&nbsp;circular chapel, separated from the
+church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in 1694, and is
+encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi,
+which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the statues and
+the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and eight-limbed
+stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns of the same
+dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six arches
+ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six smaller
+arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is composed of
+an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising from the
+second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light in such
+a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the appearance of
+being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold and silver
+lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it at the same
+time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud (Sudario)
+in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when he laid
+Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble
+monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy&mdash;Em. Filiberto (ob.
+1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele&nbsp;II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli;
+and Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob.
+<span class = "pagenum">299</span>
+<a name = "page299" id = "page299"> </a>
+<!-- png 355 -->
+1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by
+Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the lovely statue of Queen Maria
+Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em.&nbsp;II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door
+behind the altar communicates with the upper corridors of the palace.
+Outside the palace gates is <a name = "turin_san_lorenzo" id =
+"turin_san_lorenzo"><b>San Lorenzo</b></a>, designed by Guarini, and
+finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but it is chiefly
+distinguished for the boldness of its arches.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: The Castello. Museo Civico.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_castello" id =
+"turin_castello">
+The Castello.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was
+erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it
+became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele&nbsp;II.,
+Madama M.&nbsp;G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of
+whom it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat
+of government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the
+great hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory,
+and another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who
+here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_museo_civico" id =
+"turin_museo_civico">
+Museo Civico.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3,
+1&nbsp;fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS.
+of celebrated Piedmontese. <b>2.</b>&nbsp;Water-colours, representing
+landscapes and historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a
+solid oblong chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater
+diameter, and 2 ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long
+ends is a lion’s head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also
+under a glass frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra,
+a&nbsp;vase, and two flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The
+first was presented in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by
+that of the United States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of
+the Geneva arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this
+institution by his widow. None of them display much art; as for the
+English vase, it needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable
+soup-tureen.</p>
+
+<p>The rooms from <b>4</b> to <b>11</b> contain modern oil-paintings,
+some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble
+statues; among the best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and
+the Crucifixion of Eulalia by E.&nbsp;Franceschi. Second
+story.&mdash;Room <b>12</b>, Embroidery; <b>13</b>, Miniatures and
+illustrated MSS.; <b>14</b>, Iron work; <b>15</b>, Carving in wood and
+ivory&mdash;notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; <b>16</b>, Glass and
+<span class = "pagenum">300</span>
+<a name = "page300" id = "page300"> </a>
+<!-- png 356 -->
+majolica; <b>17</b>, Italian porcelain; <b>18</b>, Busts; <b>19</b>,
+Small oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *<b>20</b>, Italian painted
+glass from 1300; <b>21</b>, Egyptian pottery; <b>22</b>, Pottery and
+stone age.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Via di Po. University. Madre di Dio.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_via_po" id = "turin_via_po">
+The Via di Po.</a></h5>
+
+<p>The finest of the streets is the <b>Via di Po</b>, which extends from
+the Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio
+Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares,
+as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and
+lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in
+all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the
+pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both
+sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the
+<a name = "turin_university" id = "turin_university"><b>University</b></a>,
+built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo&nbsp;II., but founded in 1404 by the
+Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and directed
+by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains
+200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman bas-reliefs,
+inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the Via di Po and
+the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina,
+containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open
+daily. Apply to the custodi.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "turin_piazza_vitt_em" id =
+"turin_piazza_vitt_em"><b>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</b></a> is 394 yards
+long and 121½ wide. In front, on the other side of the Po, is a
+conspicuous church, the Gran <a name = "turin_madre_di_dio" id =
+"turin_madre_di_dio"><b>Madre di Dio</b></a>, built in 1818, in the
+style of the Pantheon at Rome, by Bansignori, to commemorate the return
+of Vittorio Emanuele&nbsp;I. to Turin after the fall of Napoleon.
+A&nbsp;little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) is a Capuchin convent,
+built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road up is very easy, and
+the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately above the Madre di Dio
+church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of
+Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by one of the queens of
+Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s
+Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education of children
+of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the
+Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four
+pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor
+Amadeus&nbsp;I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a
+government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of
+minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces,
+are topographically arranged. The <b>Botanical Garden</b> belonging to
+the university is also here.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">301</span>
+<a name = "page301" id = "page301"> </a>
+<!-- png 357 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: Monument to Cavour.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_monuments" id =
+"turin_monuments">
+Monuments.</a></h5>
+
+<p>In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza
+Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for
+which he received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of
+Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes
+in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.
+Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the
+words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See <a href =
+"#page294">p.&nbsp;294</a>.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for
+bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S.&nbsp;Carlo,
+with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see <a href =
+"#page293">p.&nbsp;293</a>). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is
+the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di
+Savoia (brother of&nbsp;V. Emanuele&nbsp;II.) at the battle of Novara in
+1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell,
+mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth
+and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of
+suffering.</p>
+
+<p>A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta
+is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di
+Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected
+in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the
+celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor
+Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and
+Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group
+representing Count Verde (Amadeus&nbsp;VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close
+to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior
+encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and
+gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em.
+Filiberto, passing by on the left S.&nbsp;Domenico, and on the right the
+Basilica. In S.&nbsp;Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the
+altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: La Consolata. Cemetery.</span></p>
+
+<p>Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church
+<a name = "turin_la_consolata" id = "turin_la_consolata"><b>La
+Consolata</b></a>, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three
+churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a
+miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining
+walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances
+effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious
+Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria
+Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.
+Emanuele,
+<span class = "pagenum">302</span>
+<a name = "page302" id = "page302"> </a>
+<!-- png 358 -->
+dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship
+every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square
+outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in
+fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.</p>
+
+<p>In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72
+ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the
+ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns
+which contributed to the monument.</p>
+
+<p>Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the <a name =
+"turin_cemetery" id = "turin_cemetery">cemetery</a> or Campo Santo of
+Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth
+visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.</p>
+
+<p>A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the
+citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the
+monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang
+a mine at the cost of his own life.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Turin: La Superga.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_la_superga" id =
+"turin_la_superga">
+La Superga.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the
+time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half
+an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number,
+the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram
+runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele&nbsp;I., passes by
+the western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends
+by the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent
+commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and
+opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards,
+the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga
+station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious
+restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand,
+for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is
+probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the
+main road to Turin.</p>
+
+<p>The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.
+above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was
+commenced by Vittorio Amedeo&nbsp;II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to
+fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the
+French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the
+duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.</p>
+
+<p>Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will
+be
+<span class = "pagenum">303</span>
+<a name = "page303" id = "page303"> </a>
+<!-- png 359 -->
+found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first
+hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.
+Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white
+marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are
+worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo
+Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele&nbsp;III.,
+1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a&nbsp;colossal
+white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo&nbsp;II., the founder,
+1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried.</p>
+
+<p>From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery
+outside the lantern. A&nbsp;door about 80 steps up opens into the
+gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is
+well seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the
+church.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "turin_views" id = "turin_views">
+<span class = "headnote">Turin: Views. Lamprede. Wines.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from
+the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of
+Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is
+bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and
+Mont Blanc on the other.</p>
+
+<p>Among the delicacies of Turin are the <a name = "turin_lamprede" id =
+"turin_lamprede">lamprede</a>, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught
+in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white
+truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la Piedmontese” or “à
+la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable
+dishes. <a name = "turin_wines" id = "turin_wines">The vermouth of
+Turin</a> is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to
+table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a&nbsp;white wine; the
+Barolo, a&nbsp;dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera,
+a&nbsp;strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked
+bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the
+Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the
+dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at
+Cannes on the Riviera. A&nbsp;great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is
+consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills.</p>
+
+<p>Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">p.&nbsp;153</a>). <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Turin to Genoa</a>,
+103¼&nbsp;m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p.&nbsp;279).
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">Turin to
+Savona</a>, 91¼&nbsp;m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see
+p.&nbsp;183, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map
+p.&nbsp;27</a>). <a href = "#turin_to_florence">Turin to Florence</a>,
+291&nbsp;m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena,
+Bologna, and Pistoja (see p.&nbsp;309, and <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#map199">map p.&nbsp;199</a>).</p>
+
+<div class = "picture">
+<!-- png 361 -->
+<p class = "caption">
+<span class = "smallcaps">THE WALDENSIAN VALLEYS<br>
+and the Passes between France and Italy.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 304</span>
+[Northwest] <i>See <a href = "#map291">map, page 291</a>.</i><br>
+[West] <i>For continuation of the French Waldensian Valleys see <a href
+= "#map326">map, page 326</a>.</i>
+<a name = "map304" id = "map304" href = "images/map304.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map304thumb.png" width = "461" height = "395"
+alt = "see caption"></a><br>
+<i>For S. continuation see map, page 103.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">304</span>
+<a name = "page304" id = "page304"> </a>
+<!-- png 360 -->
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "waldenses" id = "waldenses">
+THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR<br>
+THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+(See accompanying <a href = "#map304">Map</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid
+trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.</p>
+
+<p>The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼
+miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½&nbsp;m. S.W.
+from Turin, and 10¾&nbsp;m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a
+steam tram runs 12&nbsp;m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa,
+the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram
+station is near the railway station.</p>
+
+<p>Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S.,
+2&nbsp;frs. 15 c. and 1&nbsp;fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This
+tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "steam_trams" id = "steam_trams">Italian steam
+trams</a> run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads.
+Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford
+excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so
+quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.</p>
+
+<p>Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58&nbsp;m. S. by rail
+from Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; <i>Inn:</i> Tré Limoni
+d’Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the
+other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill
+rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On
+the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;184).</p>
+
+<p>The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys
+of Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20&nbsp;m. long
+from W. to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the
+isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.
+They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848
+procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were
+confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread
+themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year
+to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories
+have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx
+of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which
+up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a
+larger population of Romanists.</p>
+
+<p>These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize,
+wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows
+<span class = "pagenum">305</span>
+<a name = "page305" id = "page305"> </a>
+<!-- png 362 -->
+of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach,
+apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded
+mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only
+high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between
+the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625
+ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft.,
+a&nbsp;short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’
+Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "waldensian_doctrines" id =
+"waldensian_doctrines">
+<span class = "headnote">Waldensian Doctrines and
+Persecutions.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side
+of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the
+French side (<a href = "#val_louise_2">pp.&nbsp;344, 345</a>), and, as
+there was constant communication between them, French became the common
+language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a
+part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then
+almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced
+by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted
+confession by contrite prayer to God and the mention aloud of their sins
+to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were
+of two classes, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and
+penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines
+and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the
+Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival
+of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived
+from “valle densa,” contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally
+Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun
+at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée
+IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487
+fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed
+any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made,
+property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they
+were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among
+the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Torre-Pèllice.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "torrepellice" id =
+"torrepellice"><b>Torre-Pèllice</b></a>, pop. 5200, <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;de l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and
+its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼&nbsp;m. S.W. by rail from Turin,
+10½&nbsp;m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼&nbsp;m. from the station of
+Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a
+considerable town to the N. of the station. <i>Inn:</i> Albergo del
+Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a&nbsp;large unfinished-looking
+village, with barracks, a&nbsp;“Tempio Evangelico,” and several
+elementary Protestant schools.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">306</span>
+<a name = "page306" id = "page306"> </a>
+<!-- png 363 -->
+
+<p>Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley
+enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the
+Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for
+girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph
+office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the
+Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and
+dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many
+Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made
+the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.</p>
+
+<p>The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is
+drunk in the second year. A&nbsp;beautiful walk extends up the valley of
+the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor,
+4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and
+schools. Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bobbio. Mirabouc. Col de la Croix.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin" id =
+"torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin</b></a>
+by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La
+Monta, and Abriés, 47&nbsp;m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. walking. Up to <a name =
+"bobbio" id = "bobbio"><b>Bobbio</b></a>, 2838 ft, 7½&nbsp;m. and 2½
+hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, <i>Inns:</i> Camoscio, etc.,
+there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts
+till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of
+<a name = "mirabouc" id = "mirabouc"><b>Fort Mirabouc</b></a>. At Mirabouc,
+4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house
+station, 5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and
+accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent
+of the <a name = "col_croix" id = "col_croix">Col, 7576 ft.</a>,
+17&nbsp;m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a
+splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level,
+and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the
+char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés,
+and Guillestre. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a> and
+Guillestre, see p.&nbsp;344, and <a href = "#map304">map
+p.&nbsp;304</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pinerolo.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "pinerolo" id = "pinerolo">
+PINEROLO.</a></h5>
+
+<p>23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is
+Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. <i>Inns:</i> *Couronne d’Or; Campana;
+Cannon d’Oro. A&nbsp;handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large
+Piazza d’Armi, a&nbsp;good promenade, several hospitals, and
+representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public
+library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and
+another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden,
+and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a
+large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large
+staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is
+<span class = "pagenum">307</span>
+<a name = "page307" id = "page307"> </a>
+<!-- png 364 -->
+the Italian Alpine Club. <i>Cabs</i>&mdash;the course, 1&nbsp;fr.; the
+hour, 1&nbsp;fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Perosa. Col d’Abriés.</span></p>
+
+<p>Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to
+Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam
+tram to Perosa, 12&nbsp;m. N.W. from Pinerolo. <a name = "perosa" id =
+"perosa"><b>Perosa</b></a>, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction
+with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop.
+760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "perosa_to_mont_dauphin" id =
+"perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Perosa to Mont Dauphin.</b></a>&mdash;There
+is a post-road up the Germanasca and down the Guil, an affluent of the
+Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by Perrero and <a name = "col_abries"
+id = "col_abries"><b>Abriés</b></a>. Abriés is 24&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Perosa and on the S. side of the Col d’Abriés, and 21&nbsp;m. N.E. from
+Mont Dauphin. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a>, see
+p.&nbsp;344.) About 7&nbsp;m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop.
+560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello.
+From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and
+passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the
+Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the
+Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from
+Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to
+Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba
+separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and
+continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés,
+8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali,
+and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs.
+(For <a href = "#abries">Abriés</a> and <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont
+Dauphin</a>, see p.&nbsp;344, and <a href = "#map304">map,
+p.&nbsp;304</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Fenestrelle. Col de Sestrières.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "perosa_to_cesanne" id = "perosa_to_cesanne"><b>Perosa to
+Cesanne</b></a>, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle,
+Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9&nbsp;m. above Perosa is <a name =
+"fenestrelle" id = "fenestrelle"><b>Fenestrelle</b></a>, pop. 1120,
+<i>Inns:</i> Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest
+Italian fortresses on the frontier. 7&nbsp;m. from Fenestrelle is
+Pragelas, where the valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other
+4½&nbsp;m. is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the
+<a name = "col_sestrieres" id = "col_sestrieres"><b>Col de
+Sestrières</b></a>, a&nbsp;nearly level plain 2&nbsp;m. long, commanding
+a good view of Mont Albergian. The descent is by long windings to the
+level of the Dora, which is crossed to reach Cesanne, 8&nbsp;m. from
+Sestrières” (Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p.&nbsp;36). (For <a href =
+"#briancon_to_oulx">Cesanne to Briançon</a> by Mont Genèvre, see under
+Briançon, p.&nbsp;333, and <a href = "#map304">map p.&nbsp;304</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "saluzzo" id = "saluzzo">
+SALUZZO.</a></h5>
+
+<p><b>Saluzzo</b> is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam
+tram from the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam
+<span class = "pagenum">308</span>
+<a name = "page308" id = "page308"> </a>
+<!-- png 365 -->
+tram, passing Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on
+the Po, 14&nbsp;m. W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della
+Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., <i>Inn:</i>
+Lion d’Or.</p>
+
+<p>The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and
+the Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to
+Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble
+statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788,
+d.&nbsp;1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, <i>Inns:</i> Corona Grossa; Gallo,
+is a town of considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting
+various places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "paesana" id = "paesana">
+<span class = "headnote">Paesana. Crissolo. Col de la
+Traversette.</span></a></p>
+
+<p><a name = "saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin" id =
+"saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</b></a>, 65½ m. W.
+by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take
+the coach which starts in the evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft.,
+with two fair inns, passing Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the
+valley becomes very picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually
+more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road
+reaches the sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is
+<a name = "crissolo" id = "crissolo"><b>Crissolo</b></a>, 8&nbsp;m. from
+Paesana, 4374 ft.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the
+Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the
+opposite side of the valley and about 1&nbsp;m. farther up is the cave,
+Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly
+after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases&mdash;the
+<a name = "pian_fiorenza" id = "pian_fiorenza"><b>Pian Fiorenza</b></a>,
+6034 ft., and the <a name = "pian_del_re" id = "pian_del_re"><b>Pian del
+Ré</b></a>, 6625 ft., containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine
+plants. A&nbsp;little to the S.W. of the Pian del Ré is the source of
+the Po. The road to the <a name = "col_traversette" id =
+"col_traversette"><b>Col de la Traversette</b></a> leads N.W. from the
+Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the
+year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. below the crest
+and 9564 ft. above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow,
+pierced in 1480 by Ludovico&nbsp;II<ins class = "correction"
+title = ". missing">. </ins>The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs.
+ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by
+the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is La
+Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See <a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo">Mont
+Dauphin to Saluzzo</a>, p.&nbsp;344, and <a href = "#map304">map
+p.&nbsp;304</a>; also Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p.&nbsp;22.)</span></p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cuneo.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cuneo" id = "cuneo">
+CUNEO.</a></h5>
+
+<p>54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is
+<b>Cuneo</b>, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Barra di Ferro;
+Albergo di Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min.
+S.W.; also to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte,
+Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier
+village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">Cuneo to Nice</a> by the
+Col di Tenda, see p.&nbsp;182.)</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">309</span>
+<a name = "page309" id = "page309"> </a>
+
+<!-- png 366 -->
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_to_florence" id =
+"turin_to_florence">
+Turin to Florence.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and
+Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and
+through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham,
+and Dover Railway, 3d.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles to">291</span>
+<b>TURIN.</b> (For <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Asti, and the route as far as
+Alessandria</a>, see p.&nbsp;280, and <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#map199">map p.&nbsp;199</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">81</span>
+<span class = "miles to">210</span>
+<a name = "voghera" id = "voghera"><b>VOGHERA</b></a>, pop. 10,000, on
+the Staffora. <i>Hotel:</i> H.&nbsp;Italia. Branch to Pavia, 17&nbsp;m.
+N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on
+the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th June 1800, which
+preceded that of Marengo by five days.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Piacenza. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">117</span>
+<span class = "miles to">174</span>
+<a name = "piacenza" id = "piacenza"><b>PIACENZA</b></a>, pop. 36,000,
+on the Po. <i>Hotels:</i> S.&nbsp;Marco; Italia; Croce Bianca.
+<i>Cabs</i>&mdash;the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1&nbsp;fr. For
+the first hour, 1 horse, 1&nbsp;fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1&nbsp;fr.
+80&nbsp;c.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’
+Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander
+Farnese and his son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of
+S.&nbsp;Francesco, and on the other the Palazzo del Governo, and
+opposite it the picturesque <b>Palazzo del Comune</b>, begun in 1281.
+The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the
+building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street,
+the Strada Diritta, leads to the <a name = "piacenza_cathedral" id =
+"piacenza_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> (1122-1233), containing some
+admirable paintings. In the interior the arches are round, but the ribs
+of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d altar is a picture, by
+A.&nbsp;Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the 4th a painting of
+the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an altar-piece, Three
+Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling frescoes by Agostino and
+Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The Coronation of the Virgin is
+by Procaccini. The <b>Cupola</b> is divided into eight compartments; six
+of them were painted by Guercino, with figures of prophets and sybils;
+the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below are four allegorical
+paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt under the church rests
+on 100 columns. S.&nbsp;Antonino (the former cathedral) was commenced in
+the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The curious vestibule and the
+massive columns bearing the tower are relics of the earlier edifice. At
+the W. end of the town is <b>Sa. Maria di Campagna</b>, famous for
+paintings by Pordenone. On
+<span class = "pagenum">310</span>
+<a name = "page310" id = "page310"> </a>
+<!-- png 367 -->
+the left of the chief entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and
+five Angels; in the 1st chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity
+of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we
+have on the left the “Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being
+portraits of the Pordenone family, and a fine fresco also by him,
+representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the
+frescoes in the eight compartments of the cupola; those in the
+pendentives are by B.&nbsp;Gatti. The most highly decorated church is
+<i>S. Sisto</i> (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic atrium.
+Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S.&nbsp;Sisto.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Palazzo Farnese</i> is a great, unfinished, building, begun in
+1558 by Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace,
+now the Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of
+Piacenza is the site of <i>Velleia</i>, a&nbsp;town which was
+overwhelmed by a landslip in the 3d cent. Many interesting objects have
+been obtained there; which have been deposited in the museum of Parma.
+In the vicinity are emanations from the ground of carburetted hydrogen
+gas, which takes fire on the application of a flame.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Parma. Museum.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">153</span>
+<span class = "miles to">138</span>
+<a name = "parma" id = "parma"><b>PARMA</b></a>, pop. 46,000, on the
+Parma. <i>Hotels:</i> Albergo Centrale; Croce Bianca; Leone d’Oro.
+Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered by the Romans 183
+<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, is a neat clean town of modern
+appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the
+edifices is the Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the <i>Palazzo
+Farnese</i>, a&nbsp;large unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the
+Piazza del Corte behind the Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a
+collection of paintings belonging to the French school. In the Farnese
+are the Museum of Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the
+Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in
+the time of Duke Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid
+spectacles and grand public entertainments.</p>
+
+<p><a name = "parma_museum" id = "parma_museum"><i>The Museum of
+Antiquities</i></a> embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman
+altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia and Rome.
+Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in 1st room.
+In the 2d room, a&nbsp;statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the
+“Tabula alimentaria,” a&nbsp;rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to
+the support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a&nbsp;bust of Maria
+Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the
+same staircase is the <i>Library</i>, with 150,000 volumes, and some
+thousands of MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of
+one of which is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">311</span>
+<a name = "page311" id = "page311"> </a>
+<!-- png 368 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Parma: Picture-Gallery&mdash;Correggio.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "parma_gallery" id = "parma_gallery"><i>The
+Pinacoteca</i></a> is on the same floor of the palace as the library,
+and is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large,
+but is remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In
+selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters
+alphabetically to facilitate reference.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Annibal Caracci.</i>&mdash;Pietá. <i>Lodovico
+Caracci.</i>&mdash;Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of
+the Virgin (two large pictures). <i>Cima da Conegliano.</i>&mdash;Two
+very good pictures. (<b>Correggio.</b>)&mdash;1. The Madonna della
+Scala, a&nbsp;fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna
+della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. <i>The Madonna
+with St. Jerome</i>, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright
+daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden&mdash;this is
+Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever
+painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels
+of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk
+that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus
+and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully
+treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics
+think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early
+production of Correggio). 7. A&nbsp;Portrait attributed to him. (On the
+walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi
+the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) <i>Albert
+Durer.</i>&mdash;Man with a Skull. <i>Francesco
+Francia.</i>&mdash;Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with
+Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming).
+<i>Garofalo.</i>&mdash;Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape
+below. <i>Giovanni di San Giovanni.</i>&mdash;A Singing party.
+<i>Murillo.</i>&mdash;St. Jerome. <i>Parmegianino.</i>&mdash;The
+Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the
+Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the
+frame). <i>Fra Paola da Pistoia.</i>&mdash;Adoration of Magi.
+<i>Pordenone.</i>&mdash;Portrait of a Man with an open book.
+<i>Raffaello(?).</i>&mdash;Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St.
+John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of
+Raffaello). <i>Giuseppe Rosa.</i>&mdash;Landscape with Cattle.
+<i>Lionello Spada.</i>&mdash;Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of
+St. Catharine. <i>Spagnoletto.</i>&mdash;Twelve pictures of Saints.
+<i>B. Schidone.</i>&mdash;The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre;
+Virgin, Child, and St. John. <i>Vandyck.</i>&mdash;Virgin and Child;
+Portrait of an Old Lady. <i>Velasquez.</i>&mdash;Portrait of a Man in a
+black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). <i>L.&nbsp;da
+Vinci.</i>&mdash;Sketch of a Female Head. <i>Zuccarelli.</i>&mdash;River
+Scene.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Ducal Garden</i>, open daily to the public, is on the other
+side of the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called
+the Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal
+style; but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it
+affords a pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called
+Palazzo di Giardino. The <i>Botanic Gardens</i> are at the other side of
+the town,
+<span class = "pagenum">312</span>
+<a name = "page312" id = "page312"> </a>
+<!-- png 369 -->
+near the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is
+planted with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the
+town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Parma: Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the <a name
+= "parma_cathedral" id = "parma_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>,
+a&nbsp;good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and 14th
+cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. In the
+interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an
+elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted
+by G.&nbsp;Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the
+great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one
+of Parmegianino. <i>The cupola</i> was painted by <i>Correggio</i>
+(1526-30), with frescoes representing the <i>Assumption of the
+Virgin</i>, but they are in a ruined state. Those on the vault of the
+right transept were by a son of Correggio, while those on the left
+transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the
+right side of the church, at the foot of the choir-steps, is an
+altar-piece by B.&nbsp;Gatti; and near it a poor bust of Petrarch, with
+an inscription recording that he was archdeacon here. Beneath the choir
+is a spacious crypt, supported by thirty-four marble columns. On the
+walls of the sacristy are frescoes of the 14th century, and intarsias by
+L.&nbsp;Biancho.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Parma: Baptistery. S. Giovanni.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "parma_baptistery" id =
+"parma_baptistery"><i>Baptistery</i></a> is a lofty octagonal building
+(1196-1281), with four deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with
+bas-reliefs. The four tiers of open galleries with columns, and a fifth
+tier of engaged arches, the pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring
+of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most
+remarkable buildings of its class in Italy. In the interior there are
+two tiers of galleries, some rude sculpture, and a profusion of fresco
+painting&mdash;old, but not of much value. At the middle is a great
+font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place
+where the priest could stand, protected from the water, whilst he
+immersed the child. The font at which the Parmesans are now baptised is
+at one side, ornamented with carvings, and supported by a marble lion.
+<a name = "pparma_san_giovanni" id = "pparma_san_giovanni"><b>S.
+Giovanni Evangelista</b></a> (1510), a&nbsp;church standing near the
+cathedral, and much visited on account of the <i>frescoes painted by
+Correggio</i> (1520-25) <i>in the cupola</i>; they represent the Vision
+of St. John, and, though blackened and badly lighted, they are
+fortunately in a better condition than those in the cathedral. The
+figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists and the
+Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory above.
+Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of the
+sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a
+fresco of St. John.
+<span class = "pagenum">313</span>
+<a name = "page313" id = "page313"> </a>
+<!-- png 370 -->
+In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal entrance is a good
+painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of
+Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by
+Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the
+left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at
+Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the
+entrance are much-damaged <i>frescoes by Parmegianino</i> (four
+subjects); and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ
+with his Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the
+adjoining <i>convent</i> (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of
+two children by Correggio.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Parma: S. Paolo&mdash;Correggio.</span></p>
+
+<p>Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the <i>Madonna della
+Steccata</i>, from designs by F.&nbsp;Zaccagni in 1521. The best
+frescoes are by Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam
+and Eve, and the Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over
+the high altar a Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the
+cupola. The wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A&nbsp;good
+Madonna in corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte
+is the church of S.&nbsp;Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed
+<a name = "parma_san_paolo" id = "parma_san_paolo"><b>Convent of
+S.&nbsp;Paolo</b></a>, now a school. In this small building are the best
+preserved works of <a name = "parma_correggio" id =
+"parma_correggio">Correggio</a>, painted for the abbess of the convent
+on the walls and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is
+Children, or Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of
+a bower or piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most
+charmingly portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is
+painted over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller
+figures in grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The
+custodian is generally to be found in the picture-gallery.</p>
+
+<p>The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan,
+Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used
+in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is <a name =
+"reggio_emilia" id = "reggio_emilia"><b>Reggio Emilia</b></a> (pop.
+24,000). <i>Hotels:</i> Posta; Cavaletto. <i>Cabs</i>&mdash;80 c. the
+course; 1½ fr. the hour. <i>Sights</i>&mdash;Cathedral; house of
+Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His <i>Orlando Furioso</i> went
+through sixteen editions in the 16th cent. 9&nbsp;m. N.E. is Correggio,
+the birthplace of the great painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio.
+To the Castle of Canossa and back, 14 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Modena. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">185¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">105¾</span>
+<a name = "modena" id = "modena"><b>MODENA</b></a>, pop. 31,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their omnibuses await the
+trains. <i>Cabs</i>&mdash;one horse, 80 c. the course, 1&nbsp;fr. 50 c.
+the hour; 2 horses, 1&nbsp;fr. the course, 1&nbsp;fr. 70 c. the
+hour.</p>
+
+<p>Modena (<i>Mutina</i>, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of
+Modena,
+<span class = "pagenum">314</span>
+<a name = "page314" id = "page314"> </a>
+<!-- png 371 -->
+is a clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which
+serve the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and
+fertile. A&nbsp;canal connects the town with the Panaro,
+a&nbsp;tributary of the Po, by which means water communication with the
+Adriatic is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "modena_cathedral" id =
+"modena_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, begun in 1099, is in the centre
+of the city. Its exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The
+principal façade is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and
+three doorways. On the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch,
+with columns resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior,
+though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting,
+especially for the sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many
+marble columns. At the entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and
+in one corner life-size figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli,
+representing the Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts,
+which look as if they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and
+the stone pulpit with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are
+some curious old bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on
+the left side of the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the
+house of Este in the male line, died 1803. The <i>Campanile</i>, one of
+the finest in Italy, 315 feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th
+cents. It received the name of Ghirlandina from its vane being
+ornamented with a bronze garland.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "modena_ducal_palace" id =
+"modena_ducal_palace">
+Modena: Ducal Palace.</a></span>
+At the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the <b>Ducal Palace</b>,
+an immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls
+in the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open
+daily from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600
+pictures, amongst which, though there are no <i>chefs d’œuvre</i>, are
+many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries,
+but towards the end of the last century 180 pictures were sold,
+including five Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at
+Dresden); and the Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few
+more of the best. In two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings
+and sketches by the old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for
+Tintoretto’s masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room
+kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some
+interesting cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B.&nbsp;Cellini,
+another of amber, a&nbsp;third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving
+in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is
+a “Presepio,” with numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of
+silver.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "modena_library" id =
+"modena_library"><i>Library</i></a>, on the same staircase as the
+Pinacoteca, contains
+<span class = "pagenum">315</span>
+<a name = "page315" id = "page315"> </a>
+<!-- png 372 -->
+about 100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000
+MSS. placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few
+Roman and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals
+struck at Modena. In the suppressed convent of S.&nbsp;Agostino, near
+the gate of that name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a
+block of stone obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18
+feet below the surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval
+tombs. In the church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by
+Begarelli, of the Entombment. M.&nbsp;Angelo spoke very highly of this
+artist’s works.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Ducal Garden</i> is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which
+is open to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bologna.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 374 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 316</span>
+<a name = "map316" id = "map316" href = "images/map316.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map316thumb.png" width = "471" height = "273"
+alt = "plan of Bologna" title = "BOLOGNA"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">208¼</span>
+<span class = "miles to">82¾</span>
+<a name = "bologna" id = "bologna"><b>BOLOGNA</b></a>, pop. 91,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; del Pellegrino; Tre
+Re; Venezia; Commercio. <i>Restaurants:</i> Stelloni; Felsineo.
+Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. <i>Cabs</i>&mdash;one horse,
+the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1&nbsp;fr. 50 c. To or from the railway
+station, without luggage, 1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p>Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile
+plain near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of
+painting is called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico
+Carracci (b.&nbsp;1555, d.&nbsp;1619), and his two cousins Annibale
+(b.&nbsp;1560, d.&nbsp;1609) and Agostino, a&nbsp;man of erudition, who
+furnished the general plan of the pictures. Their most distinguished
+pupils were Guido Reni (b.&nbsp;1575, d.&nbsp;1642), Domenichino
+(b.&nbsp;1581, d.&nbsp;1641), Lanfranco (b.&nbsp;1581, d.&nbsp;1647), G.
+Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b.&nbsp;1590,
+d.&nbsp;1666), Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b.&nbsp;1569,
+d.&nbsp;1609), and Carlo Cignani (b.&nbsp;1628, d.&nbsp;1719);
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Bologna: Picture-Gallery.</span>
+beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the various
+churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the “<a name =
+"bologna_accademia" id = "bologna_accademia"><i>Accademia delle Belle
+Arti</i></a>,” situated at the north-east end of the town, near the
+Porta S.&nbsp;Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of the first
+floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the artists, and
+is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. Cecilia, by
+Raphael.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The other best works are:&mdash;12. <i>Guercino</i>.&mdash;St. William;
+13, St. Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist.
+26. <i>Bugiardini</i>.&mdash;Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. <i>Agostino
+Caracci</i>.&mdash;Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest
+paintings; 35. Assumption. 36. <i>Annibale Caracci</i>.&mdash;Virgin and
+Child, with Angels and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40.
+<i>Lodovico Caracci</i>.&mdash;Assumption;
+<span class = "pagenum">316</span>
+<a name = "page316" id = "page316"> </a>
+<!-- png 373 -->
+42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the Virgin and Child; 43.
+Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. St. John the Baptist;
+47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. <i>M.
+Desubleo</i>.&mdash;Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75.
+<i>Lavinia Fontana</i>.&mdash;St. Francis de Paul. 78. <i>Fr.
+Francia</i>.&mdash;Virgin and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79.
+Annunciation; 80. Virgin and Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are
+several other unnumbered pictures by this master on frames. 84.
+<i>Giacomo Francia</i>.&mdash;Virgin and Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints.
+89, 90. <i>Innocenzio da Imola</i> (an imitator of
+Raffaello).&mdash;Virgin and Saints. 122. <i>Nicola da
+Cremona</i>&mdash;Descent from the Cross.. 134.
+<i>Guido</i>.&mdash;Madonna with the Protectors of Bologna; 135.
+Massacre of the Innocents; 136. Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s
+Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried
+in processions); 139. Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian.
+152. <i>Raphael</i>.&mdash;<span class = "smallcaps">St. Cecilia</span>,
+with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the instruments
+of secular music lie broken on the ground). This celebrated composition,
+painted in 1515, is well known from copies and engravings. 175.
+<i>Elisabetta Sirani</i>.&mdash;St. Anthony of Padua; 176. Madonna. 181.
+<i>L. Spada</i>.&mdash;Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183.
+<i>Tiarini</i>.&mdash;St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197.
+<i>Perugino</i>.&mdash;Virgin and Saints. 204. <i>Timoteo delle
+Vite</i>.&mdash;Magdalene. 206. <i>Domenichino</i>.&mdash;Martyrdom of
+St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of
+Verona (the same subject as that treated by Titian in a picture lately
+burnt at Venice). 212. <i>Unknown</i>.&mdash;Sleeping Child. 291.
+<i>Desubleo</i>.&mdash;St. John the Baptist. 292. <i>Innocenzio da
+Imola</i>.&mdash;Virgin and Saints. 294.
+<i>Bugiardini</i>.&mdash;Madonna. 360. <i>Aluno</i> (<i>Nicolo da
+Foligno</i>).&mdash;Virgin and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius
+IX.)</p>
+
+<p>In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour
+(<i>Oploteca</i>), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures.
+A&nbsp;collection of original drawings is preserved in the library.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bologna_university" id =
+"bologna_university">
+<span class = "headnote">Bologna: University. S. Giacomo.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430
+students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous,
+have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism,
+Laura Bassi, a&nbsp;lady professor (d.&nbsp;1778), and Giuseppe
+Mezzofanti (d.&nbsp;1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two
+languages. From the tower is a good view of the town. Attached to the
+University is a Museum of Antiquities and a Library. The Geological
+Museum is in a separate building. From the University, walking towards
+the leaning towers, we pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see
+plan), the oratory of St. Cecilia, the church of <a name =
+"bologna_san_giacomo" id =
+"bologna_san_giacomo"><b>S.&nbsp;Giacomo</b></a>, and (14) the Palazzo
+Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind
+of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.</p>
+
+<p><i>S. Giacomo Maggiore</i> was built in 1267, but subsequently
+restored. In the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti,
+the Virgin
+<span class = "pagenum">317</span>
+<a name = "page317" id = "page317"> </a>
+<!-- png 375 -->
+on a Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in
+the 8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th,
+three pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino
+Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P.&nbsp;Fontana. At the
+end of the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel,
+with Francesco Francia’s best work, a&nbsp;“Madonna,” the lunette above
+by Giacomo Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of
+the church, contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s
+Presentation in the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bologna: The Two Towers.</span></p>
+
+<p>In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia
+and St. Valerian, by F. and G.&nbsp;Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini.
+During the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the
+commencement of the Strada Donato are the <a name = "bologna_towers" id
+= "bologna_towers"><b>Two Towers</b></a> (28 in plan), seen from a great
+distance. The taller, the <i>Torre degli Asinelli</i>, commenced in
+1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and ascended by
+a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence there is
+the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in 1110, is
+139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, the
+Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the <i>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</i>, with,
+on the S. side, the church of S.&nbsp;Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo
+del’ Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal.
+Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various
+buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned
+with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bologna: S. Petronio.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "bologna_san_petronio" id = "bologna_san_petronio"><b>S.
+Petronio</b></a>, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick,
+and in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are
+remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In
+the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th
+chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s
+grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows
+are said to be from M.&nbsp;Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel,
+a&nbsp;bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides,
+attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a&nbsp;Bolognese lady (d.&nbsp;1535),
+who was at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile
+is over this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini.
+On the floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in
+1652. In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in
+the 7th, a&nbsp;Madonna, by L.&nbsp;Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba,
+by Tiarini. At the southern end of the church is (29 in
+<span class = "pagenum">318</span>
+<a name = "page318" id = "page318"> </a>
+<!-- png 376 -->
+plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, in the building called the Archiginnasio
+Antico, originally the University, before it was removed to its present
+edifice. Besides the Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a
+valuable Museum of Antiquities. Between S.&nbsp;Petronio and
+S.&nbsp;Stefano are (17) the <a name = "bologna_pal_mercanzia" id =
+"bologna_pal_mercanzia"><i>Pal. della Mercanzia</i></a>, the Chamber of
+Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the
+Casino.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_san_stefano" id =
+"bologna_san_stefano">
+Bologna: Santo Stefano.</a></span>
+<b>Santo Stefano</b> is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and
+courts, on the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the
+Church of the Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great
+altar. In the 1st chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the
+2d on the left St. Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small
+chapel into the circular chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the
+tomb of St. Petronius, with curious carvings, and a miraculous well,
+considered to have healing virtues. This building is thought to have
+been formerly the baptistery of the next chapel (originally, perhaps,
+the principal chapel), dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small
+court, called the Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that
+at Jerusalem, we gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which
+contains four marble columns said to have belonged to the temple of
+Isis, and some pictures by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural
+paintings in the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in
+the subterranean chapel of the Confession, a&nbsp;broken column is shown
+which is said to afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After
+visiting a cloister, where the columns show much variety of form, we
+have made the complete tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings,
+which are of great interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano
+in the Strada Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see
+plan), 2, S. Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the
+celebrated composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side
+is the church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for
+its collection of pictures.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Bologna: San Bartolommeo.<br>
+Palazzo Zampieri. San Domenico.</span>
+<a name = "bologna_san_bartolommeo" id =
+"bologna_san_bartolommeo"><i>San Bartolommeo</i></a>, built in 1653, has
+some fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an
+“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by
+Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by
+Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned
+from London in 1859. <a name = "bologna_pal_zampieri" id =
+"bologna_pal_zampieri"><i>Palazzo Zampieri</i></a> (admission, ½ fr.),
+although deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable
+frescoes by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of
+<a name = "bologna_ai_servi" id = "bologna_ai_servi"><i>Ai
+Servi</i></a>, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In
+the 2d chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th,
+a&nbsp;St. Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by
+Inno da
+<span class = "pagenum">319</span>
+<a name = "page319" id = "page319"> </a>
+<!-- png 377 -->
+Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of
+<a name = "bologna_san_domenico" id = "bologna_san_domenico"><b>S.
+Domenico</b></a>, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and
+died. The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th.
+Interior&mdash;2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D.&nbsp;Creti.
+Right of south transept&mdash;the splendidly decorated chapel of <i>St.
+Dominic</i>, with his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic.
+di Pisa. The garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469.
+The kneeling angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the
+sarcophagus, were by Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb,
+with its bas-reliefs illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added
+until 1532, a&nbsp;work of Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of
+the chapel is a fresco by Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic.
+The painting of the Saint burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is
+by L.&nbsp;Spada; that of the Saint recalling a Child to Life is by
+Tiarini. In a chapel on the right side of the high altar is the Marriage
+of Saint Catharine, by Filippino Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the
+high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In the left transept should be noticed the
+tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on the wall a portrait of St. Thomas
+Aquinas, considered here an accurate likeness, though painted 100 years
+after the death of the saint.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_guido" id =
+"bologna_guido">
+Bologna: Guido’s Tomb.</a></span>
+Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel
+of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of
+Guido Reni (b.&nbsp;1575; d.&nbsp;1642). Near him lie the remains of his
+favourite lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the
+Caracci, executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the
+reredos of the altar in this chapel.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bologna: San Pietro.</span></p>
+
+<p>Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is <a name =
+"bologna_san_pietro" id =
+"bologna_san_pietro"><b>S.&nbsp;Pietro</b></a>, rebuilt in 1605,
+containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last
+painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it.
+Near S.&nbsp;Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st
+chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a&nbsp;fine
+Albani. N.E. from S.&nbsp;Pietro is S.&nbsp;Martino, 1217, restored. In
+the 1st chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in
+the 5th chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to
+Perugino; in the next, a&nbsp;St. Jerome, by L.&nbsp;Caracci; and in the
+chapel next the entrance, Madonna and Saints, by F.&nbsp;Francia. Old
+monuments in the cloisters. East from the leaning-towers is
+S.&nbsp;Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent., and lately restored. At
+the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by Tiarini; in a large
+chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful landscape, by
+F.&nbsp;Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the chapel on the
+left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">320</span>
+<a name = "page320" id = "page320"> </a>
+
+<!-- png 378 -->
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bologna_environs" id = "bologna_environs">
+ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.</a></h5>
+
+<p>Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the <a name =
+"bologna_annunziata" id = "bologna_annunziata"><b>Annunziata</b></a>. In
+the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by
+L.&nbsp;Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo
+Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in
+the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Madonna di S. Luca. The Certosa.</span></p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the
+<a name = "madonna_san_luca" id = "madonna_san_luca"><b>Madonna di
+S.&nbsp;Luca</b></a>, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view.
+It is approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond
+the gate, and extends to the church, a&nbsp;distance of nearly 3&nbsp;m.
+This portico was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was
+finished. The church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed
+to have been painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed
+from the church. Outside the same gate is the <a name =
+"bologna_certosa" id = "bologna_certosa"><b>Certosa</b></a>, formerly a
+Carthusian convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures,
+and the chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom
+attached to each.</p>
+
+<p>269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is <a class = "riviera" href
+= "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja</a> (see p.&nbsp;231), and 291&nbsp;m.
+from Turin is <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence">Florence</a> (see p.&nbsp;233).</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary">
+<a name = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur" id = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur">
+St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the<br>
+Little St. Bernard.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+(74 m. N.E. <a href = "#map291">See Map, page 290</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
+<span class = "miles to">74</span>
+<b>ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY </b>(see <a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">p.
+289</a>), 15&nbsp;m. S.E. from Chambery, and 45½&nbsp;m. N.W. from
+Modane.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">14</span>
+<span class = "miles to">60</span>
+<a name = "albertville" id = "albertville"><b>ALBERTVILLE</b></a>, pop.
+5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i> Million;
+Balances. A&nbsp;diligence runs between Albertville and Annecy,
+22&nbsp;m.&nbsp;N.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">22</span>
+<span class = "miles to">52</span>
+<a name = "la_roche_cevins" id = "la_roche_cevins"><b>LA ROCHE
+CEVINS</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden
+and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2&nbsp;m.
+beyond is the defile Pas de Briançon.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
+<span class = "miles from">31</span>
+<span class = "miles to">43</span>
+<a name = "moutiers" id = "moutiers"><b>MOUTIERS</b></a>, pop. 2100, and
+600 ft. above the sea-level, on the confluence of the Doron with the
+Isère. <i>Inns:</i> Couronne; Courriers. One mile from the town is the
+Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200 ft. At the base are the salt
+springs, utilised both
+<span class = "pagenum">321</span>
+<a name = "page321" id = "page321"> </a>
+<!-- png 379 -->
+by salt-works and a bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road
+extends up a narrow and picturesque defile, following the course of the
+Isère, past St. Marcel, pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock
+called the Detroit du Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where
+the valley is only 145 ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with
+the village of Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet,
+8375 ft., commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of
+Villette, pop. 500, we reach</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Aime. Seez.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
+<span class = "miles from">41</span>
+<span class = "miles to">33</span>
+<a name = "aime" id = "aime"><b>AIME</b></a>, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft.
+above the sea-level. <i>Inn:</i> Petit St. Bernard. This, the “Forum
+Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of extensive Roman fortifications,
+and a very ancient church called St. Martin, built of stones from Roman
+buildings. 4&nbsp;m. beyond is Bellentre, pop. 1100, on the Isere, where
+the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass of the Little St. Bernard comes
+into view.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">50</span>
+<span class = "miles to">24</span>
+<a name = "bourg_st_maurice" id = "bourg_st_maurice"><b>BOURG ST.
+MAURICE</b></a>, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i>
+Voyageurs; Royal. A&nbsp;village consisting of one long street, near the
+confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">52</span>
+<span class = "miles to">22</span>
+<a name = "seez" id = "seez"><b>SEEZ</b></a>, the ancient Sextum, a
+pretty village between six mountains, pop. 2600, and 2985 ft. above the
+sea-level. From Seez the road passes the village of Villard-Dessus, and
+then crosses the Recluse by a lofty bridge near an escarpment of gypsum,
+called the Roche Blanche, supposed to be the place noticed by Polybius,
+where Hannibal posted himself to protect his cavalry and beasts of
+burden. 3&nbsp;m. beyond is St. Germain; the last inhabited village
+during the winter. From St. Germain the ascent is easy to the</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
+<span class = "miles from">58½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">15½</span>
+<a name = "hospice" id = "hospice"><b>HOSPICE</b></a>, 7077 ft., founded
+by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy plain 3&nbsp;m. long, and about a
+mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated by the Colonne de Joux,
+Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino marble. From the Hospice,
+Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended. About 300 paces from the
+column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a circle of large stones
+lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to have held a council of
+war, 218 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A&nbsp;few miles below
+are Cantine des Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile,
+a&nbsp;hamlet, 4685 ft. above the sea-level, 9&nbsp;m. from
+Courmayeur.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pré St. Didier.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span>
+<span class = "miles from">70</span>
+<span class = "miles to">4</span>
+<a name = "pre_st_didier" id = "pre_st_didier"><b>PRÉ ST.
+DIDIER</b></a>, pop. 1300, on the Doire. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Pavilion.
+Junction with road to Aosta, 23&nbsp;m. E. (See <a href = "#map291">map,
+p.&nbsp;290</a>.)</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">322</span>
+<a name = "page322" id = "page322"> </a>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">74</span>
+<a name = "courmayeur" id = "courmayeur"><b>COURMAYEUR</b></a>, 4211
+ft., the highest considerable village in the valley of Aosta.
+<i>Inns:</i> Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A&nbsp;public coach
+leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7&nbsp;frs.; time, 5 hrs.
+Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every
+summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and
+for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters,
+which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are
+sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable
+circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in
+the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur&mdash;the road to
+Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du
+Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St.
+Bernard.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane_lyons" id =
+"paris_to_modane_lyons">
+Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476&nbsp;m., and
+Modane to Turin 50&nbsp;m. farther. This is the route to take for the
+Baths of Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for
+Grenoble, which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux
+and the other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places
+are Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.</p>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+(<a href = "#map304">Map, page 304</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles to">476</span>
+<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à
+Lyon, where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons
+follow pp.&nbsp;1 to 29, and examine the maps referred&nbsp;to.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">318</span>
+<span class = "miles to">158</span>
+<b>LYONS.</b> Perrache station. (See <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons">p.&nbsp;29</a>.)<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">325½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">150½</span>
+<a name = "st_priest" id = "st_priest"><b>ST. PRIEST</b></a>, pop. 2800.
+In the old castle here Charles VII. confined his son Louis XI., then the
+Dauphin.</p>
+
+<!-- png 380 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourgoin. Virieu.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">344</span>
+<span class = "miles to">132</span>
+<a name = "bourgoin" id = "bourgoin"><b>BOURGOIN</b></a>, pop. 5200.
+<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres of bog, producing
+large quantities of peat. 10&nbsp;m. farther is La Tour-du-Pin, pop.
+3200. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. On the Bourbre.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">358</span>
+<span class = "miles to">118</span>
+<a name = "st_andre_le_gaz" id = "st_andre_le_gaz"><b>ST.
+ANDRE-LE-GAZ</b></a>. A coach at this station awaits passengers for
+Chambery, 32&nbsp;m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse
+may be visited.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">363</span>
+<span class = "miles to">113</span>
+<a name = "virieu" id = "virieu"><b>VIRIEU</b></a>, pop. 2000. With a
+large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in good preservation, containing
+tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">323</span>
+<a name = "page323" id = "page323"> </a>
+<!-- png 381 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Chabons. Rives. Voiron.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">368</span>
+<span class = "miles to">108</span>
+<a name = "chabons" id = "chabons"><b>CHABONS</b></a>, pop. 2000. 5 m.
+distant is Lac Paladru, 3&nbsp;m. long and 160 ft. deep, surrounded by
+wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end of the lake is
+Paladru, pop. 1000.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">371</span>
+<span class = "miles to">105</span>
+<a name = "rives" id = "rives"><b>RIVES</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inn:</i>
+Poste. Situated about 1&nbsp;m. from the station, on the Fure. It has
+some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well as some considerable
+forges. A&nbsp;great proportion of the inhabitants employ themselves in
+the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The parish church was built
+in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the castle of Châteaubourg,
+destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from Rives to St. Rambert,
+35&nbsp;m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see page&nbsp;43).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">378</span>
+<span class = "miles to">98</span>
+<a name = "voiron" id = "voiron"><b>VOIRON</b></a>, 939 ft., pop.
+12,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches and gigs await
+passengers for the <a name = "grande_chartreuse" id =
+"grande_chartreuse"><b>Grande Chartreuse</b></a>, 15 m. distant by the
+village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9&nbsp;m. from Voiron and
+6&nbsp;from the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5&nbsp;frs. Voiron is a busy
+town on the river Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth
+manufactories. Here the monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large
+premises for the sale of their famous cordials, which they distil, not
+in the monastery itself, but in a large building a little beyond St.
+Laurent. The road from Voiron to the Grande Chartreuse joins the road
+from Voreppe just before reaching the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont,
+distant from both stations 9&nbsp;m., 1344 ft., pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i>
+Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we pass on our right the
+distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a narrow gorge, among fine
+woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, consisting of an immense
+square building, garnished with pavilions, situated on a narrow plateau
+3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base of the Grand Som, which towers
+3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from this place in about 3 hrs. This
+monastery, the head establishment of the Carthusian friars, was founded
+by St. Bruno, the originator of the order, in 1084. At first it
+consisted only of a small chapel, with six poor cells, the habitations
+of St. Bruno and his followers, built in what was then an almost
+inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.</p>
+
+<p>The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided
+with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small
+garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being
+occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the
+handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple
+vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs.
+<span class = "pagenum">324</span>
+<a name = "page324" id = "page324"> </a>
+<!-- png 382 -->
+walk in the surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and
+on feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse.
+Animal food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> they attend mass, excepting on Sundays, when
+the hour is 8 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> Vespers are said at
+4 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, and matins at a quarter to 12
+midnight. Visitors who wish to see the monks should endeavour to be at
+the chapel-door at any of these hours. For gentlemen guests there is
+ample accommodation in the convent, clean beds, three large
+dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent water. The men-servants,
+of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story; the wives, however, of
+these servants, not being allowed to enter the convent, dwell in a house
+a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in this house also that ladies
+who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no female is allowed to enter the
+monastery.</p>
+
+<p>Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they
+distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at
+Voiron, at the following prices:&mdash;Liqueur verte, 8&nbsp;frs. the
+litre bottle; liqueur jaune, 6&nbsp;frs.; liqueur blanche,
+4&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p>From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in
+about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before
+commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St.
+Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the
+top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S.,
+5&nbsp;frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7&nbsp;frs. per
+day.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Moirans. Voreppe. Grenoble.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">381½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">94½</span>
+<a name = "moirans" id = "moirans"><b>MOIRANS</b></a>, pop. 1000.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de Paris. Junction with branch line to Valence,
+50&nbsp;m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, <a name = "st_marcellin" id
+= "st_marcellin"><b>St. Marcellin</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i>
+Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to the
+picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11&nbsp;m. S.,
+whence another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle.
+(For <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die</a>, see
+p.&nbsp;47.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">385</span>
+<span class = "miles to">91</span>
+<a name = "voreppe" id = "voreppe"><b>VOREPPE</b></a>, pop. 3000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse may alight here
+also, from which it is 15&nbsp;m. distant.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">394</span>
+<span class = "miles to">82</span>
+<a name = "grenoble" id = "grenoble"><b>GRENOBLE</b></a>, pop. 46,000,
+and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated on the Isère, by far the
+greater part being on the left bank, while on the other there is a mere
+strip hemmed in between the river and the steep declivities of the
+Bastile. <i>Hotels:</i> in the Place Grenette, the *Monnet; Europe; the
+two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in the Rue Montorge, is
+the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial travellers.
+Napoleon&nbsp;I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from the 7th
+to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room
+<span class = "pagenum">325</span>
+<a name = "page325" id = "page325"> </a>
+<!-- png 383 -->
+No. 9. Among the cheaper second-class houses are the H.&nbsp;des Alpes;
+Marseille; *Bayard; all near each other and to the Place Grenette. Of
+the small houses at the station, the best is the H.&nbsp;Savoie. Temple
+Protestant at the W. end of the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions
+for a very small sum may be taken to all the important places in the
+neighbourhood by means of the rail and the diligences and omnibuses
+which start from the Place Grenette. On the road to the railway station
+is a large and handsome hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St.
+Hugues. A&nbsp;little way down, on the other side of the river, is the
+Esplanade, a&nbsp;very large oblong square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded
+by trees, much frequented on feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de
+Ville, off the Place Grenette.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_coaches" id =
+"grenoble_coaches">
+<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Coaches. Bastile.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey,
+Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P.&nbsp;Notre Dame for Domene and
+Gières; from the P.&nbsp;Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs.,
+fare 5&nbsp;frs.; also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6&nbsp;frs., 7
+hrs.</p>
+
+<p>The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit
+of the <a name = "grenoble_bastile" id =
+"grenoble_bastile"><b>Bastile</b></a>, 915 ft. above the river. To reach
+it cross the river by the bridge highest up, then ascend by the first
+road to the left in the village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After
+numerous windings by a bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side
+of the mountain exposed to the S., a&nbsp;square house is attained on
+the plateau behind the fort. The view is magnificent, but it is still
+better from the peak immediately above, where there is one of the
+quarries of argillaceous siliceous limestone, extensively used for
+making cement. Ascend either by the continuation of the same
+bullock-road or by the steep footpath. The isolated mountain, so
+prominent from the village of La Tronche, is Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft.
+Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that remains of its early
+history are some fragments of the walls built by Diocletian. The most
+interesting of the buildings is the Palais des Dauphins, now the Palais
+de Justice.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_bayard" id =
+"grenoble_bayard">
+Grenoble: Bayard. St. André.</a></span>
+In the square in front is a bronze statue of Bayard, one of the most
+illustrious heroes of a chivalrous age, esteemed by his contemporaries
+the model of soldiers and of men of honour. Born in 1476 at the
+neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died at Rebecq on the 30th April
+1524 from wounds received at the battle of Romagnane, and was buried in
+the church of the Minimes, 1¼&nbsp;m. from Grenoble, whence in 1823 his
+ashes were removed to the church of St. André and deposited in the tomb
+in the N. transept. <a name = "grenoble_st_andre" id =
+"grenoble_st_andre"><b>St. André</b></a>, founded in the 13th cent., was
+the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the intersection of the
+transepts rises
+<span class = "pagenum">326</span>
+<a name = "page326" id = "page326"> </a>
+<!-- png 384 -->
+a fine tower, terminating with a steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the
+Hôtel de Ville, fronting the promenade. The tower of the 12th cent,
+attached to the Hôtel de Ville stands on foundations laid by
+Diocletian.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Grenoble: Library.</span></p>
+
+<p>E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th
+to the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone
+tabernacle, and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th
+cent. At the S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the
+Place de la Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture
+occupies the entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic
+Gardens and the Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a
+handsome building, are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature.
+On the E. side are the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice
+containing the public library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft.
+long and 156 ft. wide, and cost £67,585. <a name = "grenoble_library" id
+= "grenoble_library"><b>The Library</b></a>, open every day except
+Monday, contains 150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a
+comfortable reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and
+44 ft. wide, is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted
+by handsome cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed
+richly-illuminated manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass
+cases containing medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric
+times. Among the MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by
+Raoul de Sestre in 1377 by order of Charles&nbsp;V.; also a New
+Testament, 12th cent., and another in Vaudois, 13th cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_gallery" id =
+"grenoble_gallery">
+<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Picture Gallery.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains
+550 paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the
+largest and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists
+are:&mdash;Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine,
+Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino,
+Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes,
+C.&nbsp;Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink,
+Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude
+Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E.&nbsp;Hebert, Heusch,
+Holbeina, Jordaens, Jouvenet, G.&nbsp;Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic,
+Licinio, Maltais Le, G.&nbsp;Manni, Massé, Meulen, P.&nbsp;Mignard,
+Millet, Monnayer, Montessuy, Moor, J.&nbsp;Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel,
+Perugino, Piombo, Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens,
+Ruisdael, Rysbraek, Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur,
+D.&nbsp;Teniers, Terburg, Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin,
+Van den
+<span class = "pagenum">327</span>
+<a name = "page327" id = "page327"> </a>
+<!-- png 386 -->
+Veldt, Van Loo, P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last
+room of the picture gallery is a chamber containing the busts and
+portraits of the most famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the
+Dauphins, Dukes Guigues&nbsp;I. to VI., Jean&nbsp;I. and&nbsp;II.,
+Humbert&nbsp;I. and II.&mdash;Bayard, 1476-1524; Lesdiguières,
+1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780; Champollion,
+1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable antique furniture,
+porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also one of those models
+of the Bastile which were distributed among the eighty-three departments
+of France after the fall of that stronghold of despotism on the 14th of
+July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery is the Rue Lesdiguières
+leading to the Temple Protestant.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_museum" id =
+"grenoble_museum">
+Grenoble: Museum.</a></span>
+On the way is passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the
+Museum of Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the
+museum consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens
+illustrating the organic and inorganic products of this part of the
+Alps. The birds and ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out
+to La Tronche is the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th
+cent., is supported on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5
+ft. high.</p>
+
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_gloves" id =
+"grenoble_gloves">
+Grenoble: Manufactures.</a></span>
+<p>Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble,
+representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the
+workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves
+in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in
+1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of
+Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline.
+Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department.
+The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well
+selected.</p>
+
+<p>Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15&nbsp;m. N., for 2&nbsp;frs.
+Returns next day at 8. Coach daily to <a href =
+"#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, time 11 hrs. (see p.&nbsp;341),
+passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the
+Roman road and the Durance.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+7½&nbsp;m. N.E. are the ruins of N.&nbsp;D. de Chardavan, in a narrow
+valley. 1¼&nbsp;m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring,
+and strata of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead
+ore.</span></p>
+
+<!-- png 385 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 326</span>
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+the french<br>
+WALDENSIAN VALLEYS</span><br>
+<a name = "map326" id = "map326" href = "images/map326.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map326thumb.png" width = "458" height = "466"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sassenage.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is <a name = "sassenage" id =
+"sassenage"><b>Sassenage</b></a>. Omnibuses start from the Place
+Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez omnibuses leave their
+passengers at the entrance into the town near the H.&nbsp;Faure, but the
+Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the “Place” and stop before the
+inn *H.&nbsp;du Commerce. To the left of the inn is the house of the
+guide for Les Cuves, whose services are necessary to be able to cross
+the Furon and the torrent from the Cuves.
+<span class = "pagenum">328</span>
+<a name = "page328" id = "page328"> </a>
+<!-- png 387 -->
+This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and Sassenage itself
+makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense number of small
+vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; whence it is a very
+pleasant walk of a little more than 2½&nbsp;m. to Sassenage. The
+suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of this kind
+constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains it is
+supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. The
+gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of limestone
+strata of great thickness, much valued for building purposes. The path
+to the Cuves commences at the left side (approaching) of the H.&nbsp;du
+Commerce, and, having passed through a doorway, enters a kind of park
+and ascends by the right side of the Furon. About 1½&nbsp;m. up is a
+great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks as if it had been made
+artificially, out of which rushes a copious stream of pure water. After
+crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of a little more than 150 ft. to
+an enormous vault, within which are two caves, called Les Cuves, out of
+each of which rushes a great volume of water, which united passes under
+the cavern below called the Four des Fées. After this two or three
+beautiful cascades, quite near, are visited, and the Furon is crossed
+and the return made by the left side of this most picturesque river.
+From the Cuves side is seen part of the ruins of the old castle of the
+Berangers, to which a series of steps leads up, commencing near the
+mills, left bank. Their modern castle, built in the 17th cent., stands
+within a large park adjoining the village. The large halls are furnished
+with antique furniture and hung with paintings, a&nbsp;large proportion
+being family and historical portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and
+marchioness are hung with old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese
+is made in the mountains around Villard and Lans, some miles to the
+south of Grenoble. The general quality is not so good as formerly, as
+more of the cream now is used for making butter.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Grenoble to Briançon.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "grenoble_to_briancon" id = "grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble
+to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans</b></a> and the Col de Lautaret (see
+<a href = "#map304">map p.&nbsp;304</a>). Distance, 69&nbsp;m.
+E.&nbsp;Diligence daily. When there is much snow, the Col is passed on
+sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to the state of the road. Fare,
+16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from Briançon to Grenoble stops several
+hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a good plan to alight there for the
+night. This magnificent mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon&nbsp;I. in
+1804, opened in 1842, and finished in 1868, makes a charming walking
+excursion; while from almost every village grand mountain tours may be
+made. Bourg d’Oisans, with a comfortable inn, the H.&nbsp;de France,
+makes capital quarters. There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney,
+H.&nbsp;d’Europe; La Grave, H.&nbsp;Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le
+Monètier, H.&nbsp;Alliey, and even in the Hospice itself on the top of
+the Pass, where beds and food may be had at most reasonable charges.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Claix. Vizille. Séchilienne.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the
+river Drac and the railway, is the village of <a name = "claix" id =
+"claix"><b>Claix</b></a>. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de France, with a bridge
+across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53 ft. above the river,
+built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½&nbsp;m.
+<span class = "pagenum">329</span>
+<a name = "page329" id = "page329"> </a>
+<!-- png 388 -->
+farther S. by a road between poplars is <a name = "vizille_2" id =
+"vizille_2"><b>Vizille</b></a>, pop. 3900. <i>Inns:</i> Imbert; Lion
+d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the station.
+A&nbsp;manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between high
+mountains. 15&nbsp;m. from Grenoble is <a name = "sechilienne" id =
+"sechilienne"><b>Séchilienne</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Petit
+Versailles, where the horses are changed. A&nbsp;village of one street,
+magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the valley of the
+Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above each other. To
+the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from Séchilienne in about 6
+hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is reached, whence the ascent lies
+through pastures and pine woods to some steep rocks. The track then,
+leaving on the right a small tarn, keeps along the base of the rocks to
+an abandoned mine, where it runs along the ridge called the Arete de
+Brouffier, overlooking the valley of the Combe de Valloire on the right
+and the Combe de Gavet on the left. The ridge leads to a small plateau,
+usually covered with snow; whence a second ridge leads up to the highest
+peak.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of Riouperoux,
+in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought down by the
+terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated the plain
+from Oisans to Grenoble. 22&nbsp;m. from Grenoble is the hamlet of Livet
+at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its junction with
+the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and the
+argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de
+l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the
+Bella Donna.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourg_doisans" id = "bourg_doisans">
+<span class = "headnote">Bourg d’Oisans. Ecrins. Road to the
+Ecrins.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100.
+<i>Inns:</i> France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon
+remains at the Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey
+here and start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche,
+surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000
+ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded with
+houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to Lac
+Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its
+dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½&nbsp;m. long and 110 yds. wide,
+and commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due
+N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of
+Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and
+valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. farther
+is Lake Blanc.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of
+which the most important is to the <a name = "ecrins" id =
+"ecrins"><b>Ecrin Group</b></a>, by Vosc, 7½&nbsp;m., St. Christophe
+13&nbsp;m., and La Berarde other 10½&nbsp;m. Entire distance to La
+Berarde from Oisans, 23½&nbsp;m. A&nbsp;few miles above Oisans we leave
+the narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to
+the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole
+valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the
+distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier
+summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the
+<span class = "pagenum">330</span>
+<a name = "page330" id = "page330"> </a>
+<!-- png 389 -->
+prolongation of the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900;
+<i>Inn:</i> Paquet, on an elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure
+and noble walnut woods, on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly
+opposite Venose are the green pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle,
+8300 ft. As the tributary valleys do not join the principal valley at
+common level, but are considerably higher, a&nbsp;waterfall, often of
+great beauty, almost invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams.
+In ascending the valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes
+narrower, the rounded forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly
+left, and, the torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge,
+a&nbsp;very short distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation.
+A&nbsp;mountain on the right hand has at some remote time crumbled into
+fragments and literally filled the valley from side to side with a
+colossal heap of ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path
+practicable for mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with
+excessive commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was
+unable to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three
+carriages to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge,
+harmonising with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the
+romantic village of Enchastraye, a&nbsp;hamlet consisting of a few
+houses perched on a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of
+the beautiful cascades.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+St. Christophe.<br>
+La Berarde.</span>
+Not much farther on, the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of
+a rough hill to <a name = "st_christophe" id = "st_christophe"><b>St.
+Christophe</b></a>, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just
+before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow
+cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du
+Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages,
+commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss
+scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing
+immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of
+rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely
+adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, is
+comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which
+stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the
+scenery of the Allée Blanche. <a name = "la_berarde" id =
+"la_berarde"><b>La Berarde</b></a>, which is placed in the midst of this
+savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a small chapel
+distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation ceases just at the
+village; a&nbsp;few stunted pines are found still higher up, but there
+is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. This excessive
+sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of Dauphiné. The village
+of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft., that of St. Christophe is
+4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character of the scenery is, like that
+of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. The unbroken rocky surfaces
+deceive the eye to such an extent that it is difficult to realise the
+enormous scale of these mountains. To ascertain their height we must
+attempt to mount them, and even then the eye has some difficulty to
+submit to the testimony of the limbs. The ascent of the Pointe des
+Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is extremely dangerous. Mont
+<span class = "pagenum">331</span>
+<a name = "page331" id = "page331"> </a>
+<!-- png 390 -->
+Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, but is ascended from <a href
+= "#val_louise">Val Louise</a> (see p.&nbsp;333, and <a href =
+"#map304">map p.&nbsp;304</a>).</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Freney. La Grave.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary">
+Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.</h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche
+flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the side
+of La Combe de Malaval. 8&nbsp;m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble is
+<a name = "le_freney" id = "le_freney"><b>Le Freney</b></a>, 3085 ft.,
+pop. 900; <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Europe, with mines up in the mountains but
+of difficult access. It is in these mines that the crystals and the
+species of quartz containing gold are found, for which the Dauphiné is
+so celebrated among mineralogists.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with a
+small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret is
+passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a
+soaring peak. About 3½&nbsp;m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les
+Freaux, a&nbsp;tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a
+precipice of granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45&nbsp;m. from
+Grenoble and 24&nbsp;m. from Briançon is</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "la_grave" id = "la_grave"><b>La Grave</b></a>, 5000 ft.;
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope rising from the
+road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs containing copper mines,
+and opposite, on the other side of the river, the great glacier which
+streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080 ft. To the E. of the Meije
+is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a smaller glacier. The ridge
+called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by numerous
+aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the
+eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile
+apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest or western aiguille must be
+made from the northern side. The view of this mountain from the village
+of La Grave can hardly be praised too highly; it is one of the very
+finest road views in the Alps, and one cannot speak in exaggerated terms
+of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices.
+The perpendicular cliff, extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the
+summit of the Meije, is about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads
+through a bleak region and several tunnels to Villard d’Arene,
+4½&nbsp;m. from La Grave and 32 from Briançon, a&nbsp;miserable hamlet,
+considerably under the high road, at the foot of the Bec de l’Homme.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Col de Lautaret. Le Casset.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the <a name =
+"col_lautaret" id = "col_lautaret"><b>Hospice of the Col de
+Lautaret</b></a>, a&nbsp;very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft.,
+where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two diligences
+pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it is 11
+kilomètres (6⅘&nbsp;m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8&nbsp;m.) from
+Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of Malaval
+and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, 13,081 ft.
+above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche descends to
+Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. From the Hospice
+the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a mine of anthracite
+coal not far from the village of Lauzet.
+<span class = "pagenum">332</span>
+<a name = "page332" id = "page332"> </a>
+<!-- png 391 -->
+The discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of
+this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long and
+inclement. 2½&nbsp;m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is the
+hamlet of <a name = "le_casset" id = "le_casset"><b>Le Casset</b></a>,
+at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the entrance to the ravine of
+the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great glaciers which spread
+themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont Pelvoux. When the snow is
+melted the effect of the sun upon them is splendid. 60&nbsp;m. from
+Grenoble and 9&nbsp;from Briançon is</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Monètier. Briançon.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "le_monetier" id = "le_monetier"><b>Le Monètier de
+Briançon</b></a>, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with barley-fields,
+pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. Marguerite, 8328 ft.,
+which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux group. Horses changed
+here. <i>Inn:</i> Alliey; mineral bath establishment, with hot
+sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes the
+villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and night-cap
+manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼&nbsp;m. from Briançon and 4299 ft.
+above the sea. 69&nbsp;m. E. from Grenoble is</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "briancon" id = "briancon"><b>Briançon</b></a>, 4335 ft., pop.
+6000. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la Paix. Temple Protestant. The Brigantium
+of the Romans, and now a fortified town of the first class, with eight
+strong fortresses, which guard this important entrance into France from
+Italy. The town stands on the steep sides of an eminence rising
+vertically from the Durance, here a roaring mountain torrent hemmed in
+between the cliffs of the Mont Infernet, with strong forts on all the
+salient points up to the very summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this
+part the Durance is spanned by a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and
+108 ft. above the river, erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On
+the right side of the river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and
+opposite, on the left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the
+largest of the forts. The views from them are very extensive, especially
+from the fort Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to
+visit the forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building
+down the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St.
+Catherine, is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded
+and prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn
+14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span>, 1½ hr. allowed for meals. The longitudinal
+streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, little better than staircases,
+down the centre of each of which runs a stream of water in a marble
+gutter, with such an impulse that all manner of garbage thrown into it
+quickly disappears. At the foot of Briançon is the fertile valley formed
+by the union of the Guisanne with the Durance, surrounded by
+carefully-cultivated mountains studded with villages. All the Briançon
+coaches start from the Place du Temple, in front of the church. “The
+neighbourhood of Briançon abounds in rare plants. Amongst them may be
+mentioned Astragalus austriacus and A.&nbsp;vesicarius, Oxytropus
+Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium Imperati, Brassica repanda,
+Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace
+septentrionalis, and Bulbocodium vernum.” &mdash;Ball’s <i>Western
+Alps</i>.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">333</span>
+<a name = "page333" id = "page333"> </a>
+<!-- png 392 -->
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Val Louise. Grand Pelvoux.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux" id = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux">The
+great excursion from Briançon</a> is the ascent of the Pelvoux group,
+whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in
+favourable weather and with experienced guides. A&nbsp;wheel-road
+extends by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a
+path ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The <a name =
+"val_louise" id = "val_louise"><b>Ville de Val Louise</b></a> lies near
+the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the principal branch of the
+Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching up to the foot of the
+monarch of the group, the <a name = "grand_pelvoux" id =
+"grand_pelvoux"><b>Grand Pelvoux</b></a> itself, which, although at no
+great distance, cannot be seen from the village on account of the hill
+which rises immediately behind. (See <a href =
+"#mont_pelvoux">p.&nbsp;345</a>, and <a href = "#map304">map
+p.&nbsp;304</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cesanne.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "briancon_to_oulx" id = "briancon_to_oulx"><b>Briançon to
+Oulx</b></a>, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7&nbsp;frs., by a
+beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views
+of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the
+summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, is
+the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, 6476
+ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7&nbsp;m. from it and
+10&nbsp;m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres
+from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost
+25&nbsp;m. from <a href = "#susa">Susa</a> (p.&nbsp;291). A&nbsp;few
+yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the boundary between France and
+Italy, and which commemorates in French, Latin, and Italian the opening
+of this road in 1807 under Napoleon&nbsp;I., and its restoration or
+rather repair in 1835. 5&nbsp;m. farther is <a name = "cesanne" id =
+"cesanne"><b>Cesanne</b></a>, at the confluence of the Dora with the
+Ripa, 4420 ft., or nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian
+custom-house. <i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed.
+A&nbsp;post-road leads from Cesanne to <a href = "#perosa">Perosa</a>,
+28&nbsp;m. E. (p.&nbsp;307). 5&nbsp;m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 ft.,
+with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The
+diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also <a href =
+"#page291">p.&nbsp;291</a>. From Oulx rail to Turin, <a href =
+"#oulx">p.&nbsp;291</a>.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms a
+pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably shortened
+on the French side by following the footpath.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "grenoble_to_gap" id = "grenoble_to_gap">Grenoble to Gap</a>
+by diligence, 62 m. S.&nbsp;The Grenoble diligence goes only the length
+of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence for Gap.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "grenoble_to_corps" id =
+"grenoble_to_corps">
+Grenoble to Corps.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road. From
+Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the railway
+and the Drac to Claix, 5&nbsp;m. S. (pp. <a href = "#claix">328</a> and
+<a href = "#pont_de_claix">345</a>), and thence in another straight line
+between poplars to Vizille, 5½&nbsp;m. farther. Coach from Vizille to La
+Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence takes nine horses, and
+having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the flanks of Mont Conex in 2
+hrs. to the village of <a name = "laffrey" id = "laffrey"><b>La Frey</b>
+or <b>Laffrey</b></a>, 2000 ft. above, and 4½&nbsp;m. from Vizille, and
+15 from Grenoble, in a cold situation on the top of this pass, about
+3000 ft. above the sea; the horses
+<span class = "pagenum">334</span>
+<a name = "page334" id = "page334"> </a>
+<!-- png 393 -->
+are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On this plateau,
+immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 ft. above the sea,
+2&nbsp;m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the village of the
+Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To the right or
+west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite coalmines,
+some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The diligence next
+passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20&nbsp;m. from Grenoble,
+a&nbsp;considerable village, with to the E.&nbsp;Mont Tabor, 7829
+ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Mure. Corps.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_1"
+id = "la_mure_1"><b>La Mure</b></a>, 2860 ft., pop. 3800, the largest
+town on the road, with the ancient castle of Beaumont, nail
+manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, 3½&nbsp;m.
+distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next village,
+is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the edges of
+high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the Bonne, which
+it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is exactly half-way
+between Grenoble and Gap, 31&nbsp;m. from each, and 8½&nbsp;m. from
+Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge of La
+Salette, arrives at</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "corps" id = "corps"><b>Corps</b></a>, 39½ m. from Grenoble,
+on a plateau 814 ft. above the confluence of the Drac with the Souloise,
+or 3156 ft. above the sea. Pop. 1500. <i>Inns:</i> *Poste; Palais; next
+each other. Mules for La Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5&nbsp;frs.
+the seat, or 15 frs. the whole. La Salette is 5½&nbsp;m. from Corps, and
+2750 ft. above it, by a wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It
+is better to descend on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very
+picturesque, and, like all the journeys among the mountains of the
+department of Isère, of great interest to the botanist and geologist.
+The inhabitants of these mountains wander in winter to distant parts
+selling their plants, bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most
+justly famous liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette,
+Grenoble, and elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal,
+one of the best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of
+which the black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Salette. Church of Notre Dame de la Salette.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_salette" id = "la_salette">
+LA SALETTE.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now
+visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of
+Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. <a name =
+"la_salette_notre_dame" id = "la_salette_notre_dame">The church</a>,
+a&nbsp;handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished
+marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside
+measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached
+pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The pulpit
+was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three doorways, has
+on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, which were very
+great in a region of such difficult access, and where winter lasts six
+months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. Opposite the façade
+are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the gift of a Spaniard,
+representing the events of the story. On the south side of the choir
+<span class = "pagenum">335</span>
+<a name = "page335" id = "page335"> </a>
+<!-- png 394 -->
+a door opens into the large and spacious building occupied by the nuns,
+and on the north side another door opens into a similar building
+occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in each is exactly the
+same. The pension price, including wine and everything else, is 5½ frs.
+per day. Visitors can have a good meat breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½
+frs., supper 2&nbsp;frs., a&nbsp;bowl of café au lait ½ fr., a&nbsp;cup
+of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are very obliging. Books
+approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in the “magasin” of the
+establishment, giving the history of the apparition, from which the
+following is extracted:&mdash; “On the 19th of September 1846, at 2.30
+<span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, was seen by a girl and a boy in
+the place where the statue now is, a&nbsp;figure seated on a stone
+shedding tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2
+ft. in diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a&nbsp;little to her left, to flow
+forth freely. Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called
+the miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat
+Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years
+old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could
+neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such
+frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a
+few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to
+learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children in
+the path between the railings indicate the place where they were
+standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became
+aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in
+French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not
+submit, I&nbsp;shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so
+heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and
+do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I have
+taken for you. I&nbsp;have given you six days for work, and have
+reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is
+that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts cannot
+swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are the two
+things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She continued a
+little longer in French till, observing the children did not understand
+her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same strain,
+a&nbsp;diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of the
+Sabbath&mdash; ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and
+having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout
+mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by
+the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with the
+statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she
+disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was
+acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day
+in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and other
+acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August 1867
+the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The first
+stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary
+appeared to the children,
+<span class = "pagenum">336</span>
+<a name = "page336" id = "page336"> </a>
+<!-- png 395 -->
+was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, on 25th May 1852, assisted by
+Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In
+the churches all over France and in many of those in Belgium are
+pictures representing N.&nbsp;D. de la Salette addressing the children.
+In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette she is appealed to as “the
+tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the morning star,” “the refuge
+of sinners,” “the queen conceived without sin,” “the healer of
+diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm of the irritated Lord
+against us is held back,” “thou who hast said, If my people will not
+submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of my son,” “thou who
+continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy upon us, pray for
+us.”</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a shop
+at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par Maximin
+Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was sent to a
+nunnery at Naples. A&nbsp;priest is said to have affirmed that the
+pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born near
+Saint-Marcellin, Isère.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap,
+22½&nbsp;m. S. (See <a href = "#grenoble_to_gap">p.&nbsp;333</a>, and
+<a href = "#map304">map p.&nbsp;304</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gières. Domene. Goncelin.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">398</span>
+<span class = "miles to">78</span>
+<a name = "gieres" id = "gieres"><b>GIÈRES</b></a>. At this station
+omnibuses await passengers for the baths of Uriage, 4&nbsp;m. N., and
+1358 ft. <i>Hotels:</i> Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien Hôtel; Des Bains; Du
+Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable and commodious, and is
+pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, about 400 ft. higher than
+Grenoble. The water contains common salt, sulphates of magnesia and
+soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a deep valley at the junction
+of granite and lias, which is, however, concealed for some way by an
+immense mass of detritus, through which the spring forces itself. It is
+conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous conduit to the establishment,
+whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">401</span>
+<span class = "miles to">75</span>
+<a name = "domene" id = "domene"><b>DOMENE</b></a>, pop. 2000.
+<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is generally made the
+laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. above the sea-level.
+Guides necessary. The first night is generally spent at the village of
+Revel. Two days required.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">412</span>
+<span class = "miles to">64</span>
+<a name = "goncelin" id = "goncelin"><b>GONCELIN</b></a>, pop. 1600.
+Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼&nbsp;m. distant by an excellent road
+through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses awaiting
+passengers at the station, fare 2&nbsp;frs. Here also a coach awaits
+passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the
+right bank of the Isére.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The
+<span class = "pagenum">337</span>
+<a name = "page337" id = "page337"> </a>
+<!-- png 396 -->
+three principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½
+frs. to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains,
+with the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other
+end of the park are the Louvre and the H.&nbsp;Parc. In the Place
+contiguous to the Temple Protestant is the H.&nbsp;du Rhône, 8½ to 10½
+frs. In a garden of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the
+France. The H.&nbsp;Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of
+the lias with the primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61°
+Fahr., with a great deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially
+efficacious in diseases of the throat and the respiratory organs, for
+the cure of which the establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus
+for inhalation and gargling being both complete and varied.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate of
+iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the
+road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin du
+Monde,” 1&nbsp;m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable
+to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at
+the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank and
+ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of the way.
+At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a toll of 10
+sous.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an elevated
+point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the Isère. 25
+min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the remains of a
+castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this a path ascends
+through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the hamlet of Crozet.
+Descend by sledge, 2&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the
+mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a
+tariff by the authorities of the place.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Sept Laux. Pontcharrá.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most
+difficult, is 9&nbsp;m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of
+<a name = "sept_laux" id = "sept_laux"><b>La Ferrière</b></a>, to the Sept
+Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level, and the Glacier of Gleyzin,
+9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time required to go, 14 hrs. constant
+walking, but to the lakes only, about half that time. This series of
+lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild gloomy ravine, shut in on all
+sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by springs, and are not
+accumulations of stagnant water derived from the melting snow. The banks
+are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered with snow nearly the
+whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake Blanc, is almost always
+frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a sluggish frog inhabits
+the marshy margins.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">418</span>
+<span class = "miles to">58</span>
+<a name = "pontcharra" id = "pontcharra"><b>PONTCHARRÁ</b></a> station.
+An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of Pontcharrá, pop. 2800,
+<i>Inn:</i> Domenjon, 1¼&nbsp;m. distant.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5&nbsp;m. E. to the village of La
+<span class = "pagenum">338</span>
+<a name = "page338" id = "page338"> </a>
+<!-- png 397 -->
+Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly
+from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">426</span>
+<span class = "miles to">50</span>
+<a name = "les_marches_2" id = "les_marches_2"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a
+straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which stands the church of
+Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of the Virgin. Beyond are
+some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips from Mt. Granier, 6520
+ft. 2½&nbsp;m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where passengers by this
+route for Modane and Turin <i>change carriages</i> and join the direct
+line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 miles), see from <a href
+= "#montmelian_stn">Montmélian</a>, p.&nbsp;289.</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "marseilles_to_grenoble" id =
+"marseilles_to_grenoble">
+Marseilles to Grenoble,</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+190 m. N., by <span class = "smallcaps">Gardanne, Aix, Pertuis, St.
+Auban, Veynes,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Clelles</span>.
+Fare&mdash;first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is
+394&nbsp;m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see <a href =
+"#grenoble">p.&nbsp;324</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles to">190</span>
+<b>MARSEILLES.</b> There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by
+Rognac 33&nbsp;m., or by Gardanne 16¾&nbsp;m. The Rognac route must be
+chosen by those who desire to visit the aqueduct of <a class = "paris"
+href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> (see p.&nbsp;77).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gardanne. Pertuis.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">11</span>
+<span class = "miles to">179</span>
+<a name = "gardanne" id = "gardanne"><b>GARDANNE</b></a>, pop. 3500, on
+the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes are important coal-fields.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of
+numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line
+extends to Carnoules, 52&nbsp;m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles
+and Cannes (<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#carnoules">p.&nbsp;142</a>), on which the only towns of
+interest are Brignoles and St. Maximin.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">18½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">171½</span>
+<b><span class = "smallcaps">AIX-en-provence</span></b> (see <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#aix_en_provence">p.&nbsp;78</a>). At Aix
+change carriages for Rognac. 5&nbsp;m. N. from Aix is La Calade station,
+where a coach awaits passengers for <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#st_cannat">St. Cannat</a>, 5&nbsp;m. N.W. (p.&nbsp;80); and
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc</a>, 3½&nbsp;m.
+farther (p.&nbsp;80). 5&nbsp;m. S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne.
+16&nbsp;m. N. from Aix, or 34½&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles, is <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues</a> (see
+p.&nbsp;79).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">38</span>
+<span class = "miles to">152</span>
+<a name = "pertuis" id = "pertuis"><b>PERTUIS</b></a>, pop. 5800.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2&nbsp;m. from
+the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48&nbsp;m.
+W., passing <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a>, the station for Apt, and <a class
+= "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle</a>, the station for Vaucluse
+(see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences
+near <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pertuis_2">Pertuis</a>
+(p.&nbsp;77). In the centre of Pertuis is the Tour d’Aigues, which was
+part of the old fortifications. From Pertuis the country becomes
+picturesque. 10&nbsp;m. N. is the station of Mirabeau, pop. 800, with
+the castle in which Mirabeau spent his boyhood, and in which his father
+was born.</span></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">339</span>
+<a name = "page339" id = "page339"> </a>
+<!-- png 398 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque, pop.
+6200 (see pp. <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">166</a>
+and <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">168</a>).
+4½&nbsp;m. N. from Manosque is Volx village and station, with beds of
+lignite. 69½&nbsp;m. N. from Marseilles is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on
+the Oraison. 3½&nbsp;m. N. from Brillanne is the station and village of
+<a name = "lurs" id = "lurs">Lurs</a>, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking
+the Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and
+a Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Peyruis.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">77½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">112½</span>
+<a name = "peyruis" id = "peyruis"><b>PEYRUIS</b></a>, pop. 1000;
+<i>Inn:</i> Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, at the base of
+cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by the action of
+water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">80½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">109½</span>
+<a name = "st_auban" id = "st_auban"><b>ST. AUBAN</b></a>, pop. 250,
+junction with line to Digne. (For <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#digne">Digne</a>, see p.&nbsp;166, and maps <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#map163">pp. 162</a> and <a href =
+"#map304">304</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie" id =
+"digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie,
+Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles</b></a>, 53&nbsp;m. E., by coach; time, 11
+hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9&nbsp;m. from Digne is La Javie, famous for plums;
+pop. 500; H.&nbsp;de France, at the junction of the Bléonne with the
+Arigeol. 2&nbsp;m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the Combefère, whence
+a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 ft. Thence descend to
+Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of gypsum, 19&nbsp;m. from
+Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is commenced the ascent
+of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend to Seyne-les-Alpes,
+pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and half-way between Digne and
+Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the 11th and 12th cents.
+18&nbsp;m. from Barcelonnette, and 5&nbsp;from Le Lauzet, is St.
+Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking the Ubaye.
+From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see <a href =
+"#gap_to_barcelonnette">Gap to Barcelonnette</a>, p.&nbsp;341.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Colmars. Sisteron.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_draix" id =
+"digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St.
+Thomas, Colmars, and Allos,</b></a> 55&nbsp;m. N.E. 10½&nbsp;m. from
+Digne and 4&nbsp;from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, on a confluent of the
+Bléonne. 21¼&nbsp;m. beyond is <a name = "colmars" id =
+"colmars"><b>Colmars</b></a>, pop. 1100, at the foot of Mts. Meunier and
+Draye, on the Sence at its junction with the Verdon. Excellent cheese,
+called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. 5&nbsp;m. beyond is Allos, pop.
+1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from Barcelonnette. A&nbsp;short way from
+Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in one of the wildest and most
+sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea,
+4&nbsp;m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep, containing capital trout, and
+surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 ft. high, over which tower bleak
+mountains, of which the most lofty is Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake
+discharges its surplus water through a subterranean canal 1640 ft. long,
+whence it issues under the name of the torrent Chadoulin. From the
+village of Allos proceed to Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an
+interesting church, and Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a&nbsp;tributary
+of the Ubaye. (For <a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, see
+p.&nbsp;341. For <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#grasse_to_digne">Cannes and Grasse to Digne</a>, see
+p.&nbsp;165.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">91</span>
+<span class = "miles to">99</span>
+<a name = "sisteron" id = "sisteron"><b>SISTERON</b></a>, pop. 5000.
+Good resting-place. <i>Hotels:</i> Vassail; Negre; their omnibuses await
+passengers at station.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+Picturesquely
+<span class = "pagenum">340</span>
+<a name = "page340" id = "page340"> </a>
+<!-- png 399 -->
+situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the Durance at its
+confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the town are the church
+of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part of the fortifications
+built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has been very much altered
+externally by restoration and repairs. The effect of the graceful
+octagonal tower has been destroyed by the square tower adjoining. In the
+interior the arches are early pointed, inclining to the stilted form.
+The three apsidal terminations are semicircular. The small window at the
+end of each is closed. The end of the town farthest from the railway is
+picturesque. From the gateway rise perpendicular cliffs of blue
+limestone, on the top of which is a fortress of the third class.
+Immediately opposite, on the other side of the Durance, are similar
+strata heaved up and twisted into an enormous pyramid. A&nbsp;little
+beyond the gateway, a&nbsp;good road leads up by the cemetery to a place
+where there is a good view of the valleys of the Durance and the Buech.
+7&nbsp;m. N. from Sisteron is <b>Mison</b> station, 2002 ft. above the
+sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5&nbsp;m. farther, Laragne
+station, 1883 ft. 34&nbsp;m. N. from Laragne is Eyguians-Orpier station,
+1979 ft.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Serres. Veynes.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">112½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">77½</span>
+<a name = "serres" id = "serres"><b>SERRES</b></a>, pop. 1200;
+<i>Inns:</i> *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of dirty, steep,
+narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff rising from
+between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#nyons">Nyons</a>, 41&nbsp;m. E., p.&nbsp;51. 8&nbsp;m. N.
+from Serres is Chabestan, 2411&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">121½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">68½</span>
+<a name = "veynes" id = "veynes"><b>VEYNES</b></a>, 2614 ft. above the
+sea, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H.&nbsp;and Rest, de la Gare;
+in town, H.&nbsp;Dousselin.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Junction with rail to <b>Mont Dauphin-Guillestre</b>, 51&nbsp;m. N.E.
+This branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which
+traverse the valleys of the Waldenses.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gap. Le Lauzet.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼&nbsp;m. S.W. from
+Mont Dauphin, is <a name = "gap" id = "gap"><b>Gap</b></a>, on the Luye,
+2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Nord; Provence;
+France. This, the ancient Civitas Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars,
+extensive barracks, long avenues of walnut trees, and a handsome modern
+cathedral, built on the site of one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture
+is the mausoleum of the Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the
+leaders of the Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap,
+Guillaume Farel, a&nbsp;celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He
+died on the 13th Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his
+character were dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed
+a sonorous and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate
+earnestness; yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of
+large audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation,
+aroused against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "gap_to_barcelonnette" id = "gap_to_barcelonnette"><b>Gap to
+Barcelonnette</b></a>, coach daily; distance, 42&nbsp;m.; fare,
+8&nbsp;frs.; time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its
+confluence with the Durance, 5&nbsp;m. S. from Gap. From this point it
+ascends by the N. side
+<span class = "pagenum">341</span>
+<a name = "page341" id = "page341"> </a>
+<!-- png 400 -->
+of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10&nbsp;m. from
+Gap. 3½&nbsp;m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the
+horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with the
+Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and
+ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye,
+23&nbsp;m. from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil
+is made. The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost
+every part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the
+picturesque fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½&nbsp;m. from
+Gap is <a name = "le_lauzet" id = "le_lauzet"><b>Le Lauzet</b></a>, pop.
+1000, <i>Inn:</i> France, surrounded by great mountains, with narrow
+gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake abounding
+with trout. 3&nbsp;m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the
+entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. side
+of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of Meolans
+occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses to the
+right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½&nbsp;m. from
+Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½&nbsp;m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St.
+Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a&nbsp;church said to be of the 7th
+cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the
+church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side.
+Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over the
+door one of J.&nbsp;C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the
+presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is a
+square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a pattern
+to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the
+characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally
+great to the height of the spire.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Barcelonnette. St. Paul.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "barcelonnette" id = "barcelonnette"><b>Barcelonnette</b></a>,
+3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; on the
+Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by mountains clothed with
+walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present village was built in 1230 on
+ground given by Reymond Beranger, in honour of whose ancestors, the
+Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the newly-erected town received its name.
+The parish church, begun in 1230, was, on account of a conflagration,
+nearly rebuilt in the 16th and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the
+corner of the “Place” is all that remains of the church of N.&nbsp;D. de
+Confort, built in 1290 and destroyed in 1789.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there is
+also one to the village of <a name = "st_paul" id = "st_paul"><b>St.
+Paul</b></a>, 4730 ft. above the sea, and 13½&nbsp;m. N.E. from
+Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the Maddalena road, the
+length of 2&nbsp;m. above La Condamine, where it diverges 6½&nbsp;m. N.
+up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. The wheel-road
+continues 10&nbsp;m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. above the sea.
+From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, 8767 ft., and
+the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair inn) and Château
+Dauphin and the river Vraita.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Jausiers.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "barcelonnette_to_cuneo" id =
+"barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><b>Barcelonnette to Cuneo</b></a> by the Col
+della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, and Dalmazzo, 62&nbsp;m. E., 12
+hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road
+all the way (see <a href = "#map304">map, p.&nbsp;304</a>).
+<span class = "pagenum">342</span>
+<a name = "page342" id = "page342"> </a>
+<!-- png 401 -->
+Guide not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon.
+3¾&nbsp;m. more, <a name = "jausiers" id =
+"jausiers"><b>Jausiers</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the
+Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The
+road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to
+a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
+Condamine-Châtelard, 7&nbsp;m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
+Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2&nbsp;m. beyond La
+Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of
+the Ubaye to <a href = "#st_paul">St. Paul</a> (see p.&nbsp;341), the
+other goes to the Pass of <a name = "la_maddalena" id =
+"la_maddalena"><b>La Maddalena</b></a>. 7&nbsp;m. beyond Chatelard, or
+14¼&nbsp;m. from Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, <i>Inns:</i> Alpes;
+Italie; 5570 ft., the last French village. 5&nbsp;m. beyond, or
+19&nbsp;m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of
+the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the sea, between Mt. Mourre
+and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S.E. side now
+descends 850 ft. by the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura,
+to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and
+Italian custom-house.
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Bersezio.</span>
+A&nbsp;little distance farther, or about 7&nbsp;m. from the Col and 24
+from Barcelonnette, is <a name = "bersezio" id =
+"bersezio"><b>Bersezio</b></a>, with an inn situated amidst much fine
+wild scenery. 14&nbsp;m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The
+Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at
+the hamlet of Plancies, about 4&nbsp;m. beyond the village of Vinadio.
+8&nbsp;m. from Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with
+the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo,
+8422 ft., leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about
+25&nbsp;m. W. from Cuneo. 12&nbsp;m. from Demonte, 5&nbsp;from Cuneo,
+and 57 from Barcelonnette is S.&nbsp;Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to
+Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "gap_to_grenoble" id = "gap_to_grenoble"><b>Gap to Grenoble by
+Laye, Corps, and La Mure</b></a>, 62&nbsp;m. Diligence to Vizille, the
+remaining 8&nbsp;m. by rail.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Gap the diligence road extends 62&nbsp;m. northwards to Grenoble,
+by <a name = "laye" id = "laye"><b>Laye</b></a>, 6½&nbsp;m. N., where
+the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On the summit is a house of
+refuge. 4½&nbsp;m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
+Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières,
+in a most fertile district. 23&nbsp;m. from Gap is Corps (see <a href =
+"#grenoble_to_corps">p.&nbsp;333</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+La Mure. Chorges.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_2" id =
+"la_mure_2"><b>La Mure</b></a>, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. above the
+sea-level. <i>Inns:</i> Pelloux; Commerce. A&nbsp;coach runs between La
+Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large
+trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½&nbsp;m. distant are the
+anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½&nbsp;m. from Grenoble is
+Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10&nbsp;m.
+W. by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16&nbsp;m. from Grenoble is
+<a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey</a> (see p.&nbsp;333).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+26¾ m. from Veynes junction is <a name = "chorges" id =
+"chorges"><b>Chorges</b></a>, pop. 1900. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la
+Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
+unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana.
+In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around
+the town are fragments of Roman
+<span class = "pagenum">343</span>
+<a name = "page343" id = "page343"> </a>
+<!-- png 402 -->
+buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of
+Chorges, is visited by pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Savines. Embrun.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+34¼ m. from Veynes is <a name = "savines" id =
+"savines"><b>Savines</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la
+Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest
+and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all
+the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
+Meolan. 6¼&nbsp;m. beyond Savines is</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "embrun" id = "embrun"><b>Embrun</b></a>, 3014 ft. above the
+sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Thouard; Poste; 8¾&nbsp;m. S.E. from
+Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and
+one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in
+the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. side of Mont St.
+Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands
+the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of
+Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows
+with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat
+buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a
+flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. side. Above
+the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N.
+portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions;
+the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the
+shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal
+chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of
+the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is
+about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide
+spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above
+each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a
+corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their
+exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is
+quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and
+angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date
+from the time of Louis XI., who frequently visited this church to pray
+to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child
+over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the
+northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same
+size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to
+ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse
+reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the
+animal could proceed no farther.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the
+centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
+3&nbsp;m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾&nbsp;m. N.E. from Embrun,
+with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement,
+3¾&nbsp;m. farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a&nbsp;poor village with a
+bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont Dauphin. Guillestre. Queyras.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+51 m. N.E. from Veynes is <a name = "mont_dauphin" id =
+"mont_dauphin"><b>Mont Dauphin</b></a>, an isolated rock of coarse
+reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with
+<span class = "pagenum">344</span>
+<a name = "page344" id = "page344"> </a>
+<!-- png 403 -->
+the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above
+the road, the railway, and the rivers. A&nbsp;carriage-road leads up to
+the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on
+the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
+stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village,
+which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From
+the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including
+Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of
+the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the
+village of <a name = "guillestre" id =
+"guillestre"><b>Guillestre</b></a>, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and
+church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil,
+passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to
+800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9&nbsp;m. from Mont Dauphin, is a
+cascade. 3&nbsp;m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile,
+are the fort and village of <a name = "queyras" id =
+"queyras"><b>Queyras</b></a>, 17&nbsp;m. S. from Briançon and 14&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras
+Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val <b>d’Arvieux</b>,
+reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½&nbsp;m. below
+Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets,
+St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at
+Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is
+performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a
+week in each parish” (see <a href = "#page304">p.&nbsp;304</a>, and
+<i>Murray</i>, p.&nbsp;216).
+<span class = "headnote float">
+Aiguilles.<br>
+Abriés.</span>
+A&nbsp;little higher up the left or S. bank of the Guil is the
+Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18&nbsp;m. from
+Mont Dauphin is <a name = "aiguilles" id =
+"aiguilles"><b>Aiguilles</b></a>, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right
+bank of the Guil. 21&nbsp;m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. walk from
+the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church,
+the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a
+convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as
+headquarters. 4&nbsp;m. S.E. from <a name = "abries" id =
+"abries"><b>Abriés</b></a> on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house,
+where France is left.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For <a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin">Perosa to Mont Dauphin</a>, see
+p. 307; <a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin">Torre-Pèllice to Mont
+Dauphin</a>, p.&nbsp;306; <a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin">Saluzzo
+to Mont Dauphin</a>, p.&nbsp;308, and <a href = "#map304">map
+p.&nbsp;304</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo" id =
+"mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><b>Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont
+Viso</b></a>, 65&nbsp;m. E.&nbsp;From Mont Dauphin a good road extends
+21&nbsp;m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil,
+5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads
+over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte
+Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½&nbsp;m. E. from the Col. 8&nbsp;m.
+beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the
+valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5&nbsp;m. farther E., on the road to
+Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17&nbsp;m. S., to
+Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley of the Vraita.
+Saluzzo is 14&nbsp;m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25&nbsp;m. N.E. from
+Sampeyre (see <a href = "#saluzzo">p.&nbsp;307</a>, and <a href =
+"#map304">map p.&nbsp;304</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont Pelvoux.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is <a name =
+"la_bessee" id = "la_bessee"><b>La Bessée</b></a>, 3420 ft. above the
+sea, pop. 1000. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la Poste. Here passengers alight
+for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
+<span class = "pagenum">345</span>
+<a name = "page345" id = "page345"> </a>
+<!-- png 404 -->
+<a name = "val_louise_2" id = "val_louise_2">Val Louise</a>, about 6½ m.
+W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see <a href =
+"#val_louise">p.&nbsp;333</a>). 10½&nbsp;m. N. from La Bessée is <a href
+= "#briancon">Briançon</a> (see p.&nbsp;333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée
+to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers
+and peaks of the <a name = "mont_pelvoux" id = "mont_pelvoux"><b>Mont
+Pelvoux</b></a>, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is
+visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into
+two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des
+Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult
+pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise
+was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people
+having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their
+children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its
+inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the
+officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the
+valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing
+out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire
+to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain
+in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
+below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
+caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
+believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
+valley<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">. </ins>The cavern
+has fallen, and is nearly buried in the <i>débris</i>. The present
+inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race.”
+&mdash;<i>Murray</i>, p.&nbsp;218.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">126</span>
+<span class = "miles to">64</span>
+<a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>ASPRES</b></a>, pop. 2000, 2493 ft.
+above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Ferdinand. Junction with road to <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron</a>, 68&nbsp;m. W., on E. side
+of Rhône (see p.&nbsp;46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col
+de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see
+<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#crest_to_aspres">p.&nbsp;47</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">154½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">35½</span>
+<a name = "clelles" id = "clelles"><b>CLELLES</b></a>, 2400 ft., pop.
+1000. <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of
+Mont Aiguille, a&nbsp;limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane,
+about 7&nbsp;m. distant towards Die.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">163</span>
+<span class = "miles to">27</span>
+<a name = "monestier_de_clermont" id =
+"monestier_de_clermont"><b>MONESTIER DE CLERMONT</b></a>, pop. 1000.
+<i>Inns:</i> Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the
+kidneys and stomach.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vif. Vizille.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span>
+<span class = "miles from">177</span>
+<span class = "miles to">13</span>
+<a name = "vif" id = "vif"><b>VIF</b></a>, pop. 3000. At the foot of a
+calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt.
+Moucherolle, 7509&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">181</span>
+<span class = "miles to">9</span>
+<a name = "vizille_1" id = "vizille_1"><b>VIZILLE</b></a>, pop. 4000.
+<i>Inns:</i> Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans,
+is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche,
+with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored and used as a
+manufactory (see <a href = "#page333">p.&nbsp;333</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">185</span>
+<span class = "miles to">5</span>
+<a name = "pont_de_claix" id = "pont_de_claix"><b>PONT DE CLAIX</b></a>,
+pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see
+<a href = "#claix">p.&nbsp;328</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">190</span>
+<b>GRENOBLE.</b> (See <a href = "#grenoble">p. 324</a>.)</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">346</span>
+<a name = "page346" id = "page346"> </a>
+<!-- png 405 -->
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_st_etienne" id =
+"paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">
+Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+See <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">fly-leaf</a>, and Map of the
+Rhône and Savoy, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map27">p.&nbsp;27</a>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles to">349</span>
+<b>PARIS.</b> For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint
+Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
+junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp.&nbsp;351 to 358.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">220</span>
+<span class = "miles to">129</span>
+<a name = "st_germain_des_fosses" id = "st_germain_des_fosses"><b>ST.
+GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>. All the trains halt here.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "miles from">231</span>
+<span class = "miles to">118</span>
+<a name = "la_palisse" id = "la_palisse"><b>LA PALISSE</b></a>, pop.
+3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the
+town was built in the 14th century.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "miles from">235½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">113½</span>
+<a name = "arfeuilles" id = "arfeuilles"><b>ARFEUILLES</b></a>, pop.
+3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th
+cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">262</span>
+<span class = "miles to">87</span>
+<a name = "roanne" id = "roanne"><b>ROANNE</b></a>, pop. 20,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A&nbsp;busy, well-built,
+manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing
+many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy
+are&mdash;the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins
+of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit
+Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen,
+and the annual value of the produce is £1,120,000. After Roanne, the
+line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country
+among the Cevennes and their offshoots.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">282</span>
+<span class = "miles to">67</span>
+<a name = "feurs" id = "feurs"><b>FEURS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the
+Loire. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains
+several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the
+neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre.
+Many Roman remains.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">297½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">51½</span>
+<a name = "st_galmier" id = "st_galmier"><b>SAINT GALMIER</b></a>, pop.
+3100, on the Coise. <i>Hotel:</i> Poste. Springs of mineral water of
+great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and
+not utilised on the spot (see <a href =
+"#st_galmier_desc">p.&nbsp;348</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Etienne.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">312</span>
+<span class = "miles to">37</span>
+<a name = "st_etienne" id = "st_etienne"><b>SAINT ETIENNE</b></a>, 1770
+ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; both
+first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and
+frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences
+start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East
+from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice,
+a&nbsp;large handsome building.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
+summer, was founded by the Romans <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>
+56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the
+manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It
+is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive
+coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne,
+Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing
+the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal
+squares or “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is
+intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading
+northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the
+west end, the Post
+<span class = "pagenum">347</span>
+<a name = "page347" id = "page347"> </a>
+<!-- png 406 -->
+and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street
+called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the
+Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto.
+Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers
+of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the
+summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a
+gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill,
+passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing
+some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St.
+Etienne.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Etienne: Museums.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the <a name =
+"st_etienne_museums" id = "st_etienne_museums"><b>PALAIS DES
+ARTS</b></a>, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The
+Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections
+of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
+the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
+separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks,
+triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room
+upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most
+striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.” On one
+side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the
+other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
+furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of
+plates. In the second storey is the <b>MUSEE DE FABRIQUE</b>. In the
+centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls,
+under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
+arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most
+remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply
+very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture
+representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by
+Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the
+lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics
+from the looms of St. Etienne.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_etienne_manufactures" id =
+"st_etienne_manufactures">
+St. Etienne:<br>
+Manufactures.</a></span>
+The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000,
+employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which
+165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended
+for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in
+all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields
+occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an
+average annually £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long
+street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the
+Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large
+establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high
+rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private
+gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many
+as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade
+of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes,
+and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street,
+the Rue de la Badouillière.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">348</span>
+<a name = "page348" id = "page348"> </a>
+<!-- png 407 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Rochetaillée.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<i>Excursions.</i>&mdash;Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with
+large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called
+the <b>Gouffre d’Enfer</b>. 2½&nbsp;m. farther by the same road is the
+village of <a name = "rochetaillee" id =
+"rochetaillee"><b>Rochetaillée</b></a>. This is also the road to take to
+ascend Mont Pilat. A&nbsp;carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat,
+10&nbsp;m. from St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the
+Perdrix, 7&nbsp;m. farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two
+peaks&mdash;the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705
+ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the <a name = "st_galmier_desc" id =
+"st_galmier_desc">St. Galmier</a> station, 1260 ft. above the sea (see
+<a href = "#st_galmier">p.&nbsp;346</a>). An omnibus awaits passengers
+for the town, 1½&nbsp;m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station.
+It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the
+foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for
+bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the
+surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with
+masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From <a href = "#roanne">Roannes</a> (p. <ins class = "correction" title
+= "text reads ‘246’">346</ins>), on the St. Galmier branch line, an
+omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼&nbsp;m. distant, with a hotel and
+bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux,
+a&nbsp;coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼&nbsp;m. from the
+station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is
+supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and
+iron.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+St. Germains is the station for <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a>
+(p.&nbsp;358).</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_tarare" id =
+"paris_to_lyons_tarare">
+Paris to Lyons by Tarare.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles to">318</span>
+<b>PARIS.</b> This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne.
+For time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes
+picturesque after Roanne.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Roanne. Tarare.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">262</span>
+<span class = "miles to">56</span>
+<b>ROANNE.</b> (See <a href = "#roanne">p. 346</a>.) 5 m. S.E. is
+L’Hôpital, and 19&nbsp;m. more the manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop.
+7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 ft. above the sea-level, producing
+considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth.
+3&nbsp;m. from Amplepuis commences the tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces
+the ridge that separates the basin of the Loire from the Rhône. The
+temperature of the Rhône basin in winter is rawer and colder than that
+of the Loire.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">288</span>
+<span class = "miles to">30</span>
+<a name = "tarare" id = "tarare"><b>TARARE</b></a>, pop. 15,000.
+<i>Hotel:</i> Europe; an uninteresting and unattractive manufacturing
+town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep mountains, among which is Mont
+Chevrier, one of the highest summits of the Beaujolais range. At the low
+end of the town is the
+<span class = "pagenum">349</span>
+<a name = "page349" id = "page349"> </a>
+<!-- png 408 -->
+railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the
+valley of the Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95
+ft., the others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs
+are employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
+especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,”
+a&nbsp;thin gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">318</span>
+<b>LYONS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">p.
+29</a>).</p>
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "lyons_to_clermont" id =
+"lyons_to_clermont">
+Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand,</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "center smaller">
+121 m. W. by <span class = "smallcaps">Givors-Canal, St. Etienne,
+Montbrison,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Thiers</span>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montbrison.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône
+change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
+towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At <a href
+= "#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> (p.&nbsp;346) a&nbsp;long halt is
+generally made. A&nbsp;little way up from the station will be found the
+steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns
+to this terminus. 56½&nbsp;m. W. from Lyons and 64½&nbsp;m. E. from
+Clermont is <a name = "montbrison" id =
+"montbrison"><b>Montbrison</b></a> on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy
+religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these
+the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church
+of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Behind the inn is the parish church of N.&nbsp;D. d’Esperance, founded
+in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
+heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
+Charles&nbsp;I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
+apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
+windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
+diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206
+ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. end
+of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV.,”
+who founded the church in <span class = "smallroman">MCCXXIII</span>.
+Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. <span class =
+"smallroman">MCCCLVIII</span>.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Montbrison: Salle des Etats.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Fronting the E. end of the church is the <a name =
+"montbrison_salle_etats" id = "montbrison_salle_etats"><b>Salle des
+Etats</b></a> (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300
+by Jean&nbsp;I., Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de
+Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed
+into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the
+chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana
+society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft.
+wide, and 26¼ ft. high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted
+representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every
+family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows
+are modern
+<span class = "pagenum">350</span>
+<a name = "page350" id = "page350"> </a>
+<!-- png 409 -->
+additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
+original one.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
+spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
+carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
+diuretic. A&nbsp;little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
+untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
+ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from
+Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is
+the station of St. Paul (<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_stations">p.&nbsp;30</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
+after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the
+gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train
+traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a
+viaduct of seven arches. 24¼&nbsp;m. E. from Clermont, 40½&nbsp;m. W.
+from Montbrison, 60&nbsp;m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾&nbsp;m. W. from
+Lyons is</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Thiers. Vertaizon. Billom.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "thiers_2" id = "thiers_2"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,500, at
+first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel
+dedicated to St. Symphorien (see <a href =
+"#thiers">p.&nbsp;367</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye,
+Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a> (see p.&nbsp;89).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
+Clermont-Ferrand.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "courty" id = "courty"><b>Courty.</b></a> Junction with line
+to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½&nbsp;m. W., passing Vichy, 21½&nbsp;m.
+N.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is <a name = "vertaizon"
+id = "vertaizon"><b>Vertaizon</b></a>, pop. 2200, situated 1¼&nbsp;m. S.
+from the station. Junction with branch line to <a name = "billom" id =
+"billom"><b>Billom</b></a>, 5½&nbsp;m. S., pop. 4300. <i>Inns:</i>
+Voyageurs; Commerce. A&nbsp;prettily situated town among hills crowned
+with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th
+to 13th cents.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach <a href =
+"#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (see p.&nbsp;369).</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">351</span>
+<a name = "page351" id = "page351"> </a>
+<!-- png 410 -->
+<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles_clermont" id =
+"paris_to_marseilles_clermont">
+Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.</a></h4>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
+famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and
+to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">pp. 1</a> and <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles to">530</span>
+<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à
+Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first
+stations passed are <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy</a> (p.&nbsp;2), <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#melun">Melun</a> (p.&nbsp;2), and <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau</a> (p.&nbsp;3). At Moret,
+42&nbsp;m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes
+separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret</a>, see p.&nbsp;10.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">73</span>
+<span class = "miles to">457</span>
+<a name = "montargis" id = "montargis"><b>MONTARGIS</b></a>, pop.
+10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; France.
+The principal street leads directly from the station to the Hôtel de la
+Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about the old castle
+are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This castle, rebuilt by
+Charles&nbsp;V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants de France,”
+became private property in 1809. A&nbsp;house has been built within the
+circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway still
+stands.</p>
+
+<p>The parish church is of different epochs&mdash;the nave and the
+aisles belong to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps
+higher, to the 16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from
+which the groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.</p>
+
+<p>The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
+adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
+Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
+Paris and the south of France.</p>
+
+<p>10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
+Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1&nbsp;fr. Admiral Coligny
+was born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst
+of the hereditary domain of the family.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">96</span>
+<span class = "miles to">434</span>
+<a name = "gien" id = "gien"><b>GIEN</b></a>, pop. 7600. <i>Inns:</i>
+Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and an important railway
+junction. On the hill rising from the town is the church of St. Pierre,
+flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding an admirable view.
+Adjoining is the château, a&nbsp;handsome edifice built in 1494 by Anne
+de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the Préfecture.
+Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38&nbsp;m.
+N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s
+<i>Normandy</i>).</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">352</span>
+<a name = "page352" id = "page352"> </a>
+<!-- png 411 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Briare. Cosne.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">102½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">427½</span>
+<a name = "briare" id = "briare"><b>BRIARE</b></a>, pop. 5200.
+<i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la Poste. A&nbsp;pleasant town on the Loire,
+where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3&nbsp;m. farther S.
+by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H.&nbsp;des Trois Rois;
+omnibus awaits passengers.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">121</span>
+<span class = "miles to">409</span>
+<a name = "cosne" id = "cosne"><b>COSNE</b></a>, pop. 7000. <i>Inns</i>:
+Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of
+considerable importance, and still retaining parts of its old
+fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its junction with
+the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of which the portal
+and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. 6½&nbsp;m. farther
+S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. <i>Inn:</i> Pointe du
+Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the sea. In the
+neighbourhood are important quarries.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">138</span>
+<span class = "miles to">392</span>
+<a name = "pouilly_sur_loire" id =
+"pouilly_sur_loire"><b>POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE</b></a>, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i>
+Écu. The surrounding vineyards produce a famous white wine, with a
+peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in the second year, and deteriorates
+after the 15th.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">141</span>
+<span class = "miles to">389</span>
+<a name = "la_charite" id = "la_charite"><b>LA CHARITÉ</b></a>, built on
+a hill sloping down from the railway to the Loire, crossed by both a
+stone and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i> Poste et G.&nbsp;Monarque;
+Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of its
+fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
+consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal&nbsp;II., there remain a vast
+narthex, the choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This
+church belonged to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to
+the town its name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the
+Visitandines (Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of
+St. François de Sales.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pougues les Eaux. Fourchambault.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">150</span>
+<span class = "miles to">380</span>
+<a name = "pougues_les_eaux" id = "pougues_les_eaux"><b>POUGUES LES
+EAUX</b></a>, pop. 1400. <i>Hotels:</i> Near the station, the H.&nbsp;du
+Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H.&nbsp;de l’Etablissement,
+and opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a
+quiet place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
+stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
+establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
+water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
+rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
+has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
+both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
+iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
+liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
+carbonic acid gas are employed.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">353</span>
+<a name = "page353" id = "page353"> </a>
+<!-- png 412 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">154</span>
+<span class = "miles to">376</span>
+<a name = "fourchambault" id = "fourchambault"><b>FOURCHAMBAULT</b></a>,
+pop. 6500. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Bourges at station; in town,
+H.&nbsp;Berry. A&nbsp;town on the Loire full of large ironworks,
+employing above 5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du
+Carrousel were cast here. Omnibus at station.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nevers.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">158</span>
+<span class = "miles to">372</span>
+<a name = "nevers" id = "nevers"><b>NEVERS</b></a>, pop. 20,400.
+<i>Hotels:</i> at the station, H.&nbsp;de la Paix; H.&nbsp;du Chemin de
+Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A&nbsp;short distance
+N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is the
+nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to
+which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews with
+the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a lingering
+illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present pope had
+not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio IX.
+entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s <i>South France</i>, West
+Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
+covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:&mdash; “Ici
+repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à
+Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En
+religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des
+Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35<sup>e</sup> année de
+son age et la 12<sup>me</sup> de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le
+lieu. Psalm 131, v.&nbsp;15.”</p>
+
+<p>Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat
+at <a href = "#romagnat">Gergovia</a> (p.&nbsp;372) the inhabitants
+plundered his camp and massacred the soldiers. Of the old fortifications
+there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the
+11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th
+cent.; and the Porte du Croux, a&nbsp;square tower of the 12th cent.,
+but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an antiquarian museum. At the
+entrance into the town by the Paris road is a triumphal arch, erected in
+1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the
+French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch forces under the Duke of
+Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a hill rising from the Loire
+in the midst of a flat country abounding with iron, giving employment to
+important ironworks. In the most elevated part is the Grande Place, with
+the <b>Palais de Justice</b>, formerly the Palais Ducal, a&nbsp;stately
+edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, but altered
+and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his successors, belonging to the
+families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in the form of a parallelogram,
+flanked with four towers, each containing
+<span class = "pagenum">354</span>
+<a name = "page354" id = "page354"> </a>
+<!-- png 413 -->
+a staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,”
+ornamented with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history
+of the house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old
+Palais de Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the
+Palais de Justice is a fountain by Lequesne.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "nevers_faience" id =
+"nevers_faience">
+Nevers: Faïence.</a></span>
+In the Hôtel de Ville are the Library, the Picture Gallery, and an
+interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers
+for eight centuries. Faïence is the French term for all descriptions of
+glazed earthenware, and corresponds nearly to the English word
+“crockery.” The manufacture of majolica or enamelled pottery was
+introduced into France by Catherine de Médicis and her kinsman Louis
+Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta of Clèves in 1565, became Duke
+of Nevers. There are still important pottery works in the town.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Nevers: Cassini.</span></p>
+
+<p>Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
+reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
+The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
+14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
+with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
+western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
+11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
+triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
+astronomer <a name = "nevers_cassini" id = "nevers_cassini">Cassini</a>
+while engaged in the triangulation of France.</p>
+
+<p>The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père
+was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
+chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.</p>
+
+<p>32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers
+for the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is
+hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
+Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map1">map, p.&nbsp;1</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Varzy. Clamecy.</span></p>
+
+<p>Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line
+between Paris and Turin (see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#la_roche">p.&nbsp;14</a>). On this branch line, 8¾&nbsp;m.
+N. from Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the
+important ironworks called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards
+of 1300 men. 24¼&nbsp;m. farther by the same line is <a name = "varzy"
+id = "varzy"><b>Varzy</b></a>, pop. 2890; <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de la
+Poste; with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents.,
+surmounted by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant
+triforium and a beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of
+St. Eugenie. 44&nbsp;m. S. from La Roche and 64&nbsp;m. N. from Nevers
+is <a name = "clamecy" id = "clamecy"><b>Clamecy</b></a>, pop. 5400 (<a
+class = "paris" href = "paris.html#clamecy_2">p.&nbsp;15</a>);
+<i>Inns:</i> Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne
+with the Beuvron. On
+<span class = "pagenum">355</span>
+<a name = "page355" id = "page355"> </a>
+<!-- png 414 -->
+the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of Jean Rouvet,
+the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from the forests is
+floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of St. Martin, 12th
+to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by Simart, a&nbsp;handsome
+organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos on the high altar.
+Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of the Dukes of
+Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the prison occupy
+one large building.</p>
+
+<p>22 m. N. from Clamecy is <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#cravant">Cravant</a> (p. 14), an important railway junction.
+Junction also at Nevers with line to <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#chagny">Chagny</a>, 178&nbsp;m. E. (see p.&nbsp;24). Branch
+to Le Creusot and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun</a>
+(see p.&nbsp;24).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Saincaize. Moulins.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">154</span>
+<a name = "saincaize" id = "saincaize"><b>SAINCAIZE</b></a>, 600 ft.
+above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38&nbsp;m. W. (See Black’s
+<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">195</span>
+<span class = "miles to">335</span>
+<a name = "moulins" id = "moulins"><b>MOULINS</b></a>, pop. 22,000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> At the station, H.&nbsp;du Chemin de Fer; in. the town,
+Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
+A&nbsp;cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along
+the banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13
+arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral
+of Notre Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The
+façade, over which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with
+colonnettes of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned
+with statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
+lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
+with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
+mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
+fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
+Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration
+of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
+large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a
+prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
+of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
+houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is
+also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
+the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a&nbsp;little beyond the
+Palais de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier,
+Renaudan and Poipant, of Henri&nbsp;II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of
+Henri IV., and one of the bravest marshals of France. He had the
+misfortune to draw upon himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the
+displeasure of Louis XIII., which
+<span class = "pagenum">356</span>
+<a name = "page356" id = "page356"> </a>
+<!-- png 415 -->
+led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the 30th October
+1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria Orsini,
+caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to the
+convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the finest
+Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture and the
+duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the public
+library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th cent,
+called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving statues, is
+mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "duke_berwick" id = "duke_berwick">
+<span class = "headnote">Duke of Berwick. Sterne’s Maria.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed
+some time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his <i>History of the
+Rebellion</i>, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died
+on the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
+Charles&nbsp;II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James,
+Duke of Berwick, a&nbsp;marshal and peer of France, natural son of James
+Duke of York, afterwards James&nbsp;II., by Arabella Churchill, sister
+of the great Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of
+August 1670, and died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the
+works of Plutarch&nbsp;I have seen at a distance what great men were; in
+Marshal Berwick&nbsp;I have seen what they are.” <a name =
+"sterne_maria" id = "sterne_maria">By the side</a> of the Paris road,
+under a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria,
+with her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
+intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
+melancholy. (See Sterne’s <i>Sentimental Journey</i>, “Maria.”)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Souvigny.</span></p>
+
+<p>9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is <a name = "souvigny" id =
+"souvigny"><b>Souvigny</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Hotel:</i> Croix d’Or. At
+the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
+basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
+periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
+Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of
+Louis&nbsp;II., Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is
+that of Duc Charles&nbsp;I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels
+are enclosed in a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the
+left of the principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of
+the Zodiac sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of
+the street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of
+humble rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10&nbsp;m. N. to
+Bourbon l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de
+l’Écu). It stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow
+the traveller to cast a rapid glance over this
+<span class = "pagenum">357</span>
+<a name = "page357" id = "page357"> </a>
+<!-- png 416 -->
+pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and Auvergne architecture of the 11th
+cent. (See <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
+p.&nbsp;1</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourbon-l’Archambault Baths.</span></p>
+
+<p><a name = "bourbon_larchambault" id =
+"bourbon_larchambault"><b>Bourbon-l’Archambault</b></a>, pop. 4500.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Close to the bathing establishment, the Hôtel Montespan,
+on the site of the house which used to be occupied by Madame de
+Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. distant the Hôtel de France. On
+a hill at the northern side of this ancient town are the ruins of the
+once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis&nbsp;I. in
+1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc Pierre&nbsp;II. Four massive
+towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the
+twenty-four which it had originally.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
+commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the
+centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides
+supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and
+domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested,
+slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is
+free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime,
+magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is
+eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for
+rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing
+establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source
+de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of
+soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate
+of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly
+laxative.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_pardoux" id = "st_pardoux">
+St. Pardoux Spring.</a></span>
+9½&nbsp;m. S. from Bourbon is <b>St. Pardoux</b>, in a wooded and hilly
+country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a
+spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free
+carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and
+soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is
+delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so
+much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly
+diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre
+bottles at Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the
+height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her
+health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast
+off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33&nbsp;m. W. from Souvigny by rail is
+Commentry (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map,
+p.&nbsp;1</a>).</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
+17½&nbsp;m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23&nbsp;m. E., Gilly, station
+for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼&nbsp;m. E., Saint Agnan; 35&nbsp;m. E., Digoin;
+and 41½&nbsp;m. E., <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a> (see p.&nbsp;27, and
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, p.&nbsp;1</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "dompierre_sur_bebre" id =
+"dompierre_sur_bebre"><b>Dompierre-sur-Bebre</b></a>, pop. 2230.
+<i>Inns:</i> Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this
+neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the
+next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds,
+founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent., and now an agricultural
+school.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">358</span>
+<a name = "page358" id = "page358"> </a>
+<!-- png 417 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gilly.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "gilly" id = "gilly"><b>Gilly</b></a>, station for <a name =
+"bourbon_lancy" id = "bourbon_lancy"><b>Bourbon-Lancy</b></a>, pop.
+3300, 8¾&nbsp;m. N. by the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station,
+fare 1½ fr. <i>Inn:</i>: H.&nbsp;Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for
+drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old
+houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the
+valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of <a name = "st_leger"
+id = "st_leger"><b>St. Leger</b></a>, with an excellent small <b>Bathing
+Establishment</b>, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132°
+Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
+baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
+chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
+calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and
+magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is
+the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and
+other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and
+cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of
+rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished
+with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water
+to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a
+swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the
+mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still
+carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At
+intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the
+bed of the outlet.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. and
+Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A&nbsp;monument to their
+memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
+Madame in silver is in the hospital. <i>Inns:</i> Opposite the
+establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H.&nbsp;des Termes,
+pension 8½ frs. A&nbsp;little farther, the G. H.&nbsp;des Bains, 7½
+frs.; for a lady, 6&nbsp;frs. Opposite, the H.&nbsp;Allier. The charge
+for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M.
+Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of
+considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several
+important cities are within a few hours by rail.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. <i>Inn:</i>
+H.&nbsp;de Marion. A&nbsp;small town in the midst of iron and coal
+mines. 6&nbsp;m. farther is <a name = "digoin" id =
+"digoin"><b>Digoin</b></a>, pop. 3300. Inns: H.&nbsp;des Diligences, in
+the town; at the station, the H.&nbsp;de la Gare. Church of the llth
+cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Germain-des-Fossés.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">220</span>
+<span class = "miles to">310</span>
+<a name = "st_germain_fosses" id = "st_germain_fosses"><b>ST.
+GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
+rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
+for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G.
+H.&nbsp;du Pare (bed 2&nbsp;frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of
+the station is the inn H.&nbsp;de la Gare. In the village, the Paix.
+7&nbsp;m. S. from St. Germain and 227&nbsp;m. S. from Paris is</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">359</span>
+<a name = "page359" id = "page359"> </a>
+<!-- png 419 -->
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vichy" id = "vichy">
+VICHY</a></h5>
+
+<p>on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris.
+<i>Hotels:</i> The largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the
+most elegantly furnished are:&mdash;The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.;
+the H.&nbsp;Parc, 12 to 20 frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun,
+12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.</p>
+
+<!-- png 418 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 359</span>
+<a name = "map359" id = "map359" href = "images/map359.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map359thumb.png" width = "469" height = "499"
+alt = "plan of Vichy" title = "VICHY"></a>
+</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vichy_hotels" id = "vichy_hotels">
+<span class = "headnote">Vichy: Hotels and their Charges.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
+furniture is not so costly.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+The H.&nbsp;des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
+which Napoleon&nbsp;III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the
+Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H.&nbsp;de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the
+G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel,
+Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; and H.&nbsp;de la Restauration. Almost
+adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H.&nbsp;Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs.,
+a&nbsp;smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first
+three, servants are taken at the rate of 6&nbsp;frs. per day. The above
+prices include everything except the charge of 1&nbsp;fr. for candles at
+the end of the stay.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille,
+is the G. H.&nbsp;des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement,
+the H.&nbsp;Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs.;
+and behind it the H.&nbsp;Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a&nbsp;more
+handsome house.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National,
+*H.&nbsp;d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a&nbsp;clean quiet house, generally
+full.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
+H.&nbsp;d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a&nbsp;small house served principally
+by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise
+the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Place Rosalie are the <b>Source de l’Hôpital</b> and the Banque
+de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of
+houses, is the H.&nbsp;de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the
+church. On the other side of the church is the *H.&nbsp;Notre Dame, 9½
+to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H.&nbsp;du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.;
+H.&nbsp;Fénélon; H.&nbsp;du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan
+same price.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
+station, are the G. H.&nbsp;du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open
+all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse;
+H.&nbsp;Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½
+frs.; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7&nbsp;frs., open all the
+year&mdash;all between the railway station and the Etablissement.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel
+Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
+hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H.&nbsp;de
+Provence, 6 to 9&nbsp;frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
+the G.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near
+<span class = "pagenum">360</span>
+<a name = "page360" id = "page360"> </a>
+<!-- png 420 -->
+the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H.&nbsp;Venise, 8 to
+9&nbsp;frs. and the H.&nbsp;Palais-Royal.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are
+let at prices varying from 4 to 8&nbsp;frs., and ½ fr. for service.
+Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread,
+and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
+Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame
+resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before
+deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de
+Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable
+without being expensive.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
+best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding
+the different doctors can be had.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms
+a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided
+over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. per
+day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best
+situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
+Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
+town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
+where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end
+of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th
+and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have
+been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as
+well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In
+1402 Louis&nbsp;II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and
+fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that
+remains is the great clock-tower or belfry.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vichy: Mineral Water Establishment.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
+<a name = "vichy_water" id = "vichy_water"><b>Mineral Water
+Establishment</b></a>, composed of two large buildings&mdash;1st, The
+“Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths;
+a&nbsp;parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100
+cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on
+the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the
+ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath
+costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is
+allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In
+front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is
+the <i>office</i> for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the
+sale of the bath tickets.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
+and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 c.
+each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality
+of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The
+baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs.
+The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
+<span class = "pagenum">361</span>
+<a name = "page361" id = "page361"> </a>
+<!-- png 421 -->
+shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
+in a single day. They commence at 3.30 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span> and continue till 5 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span>, but at one part of the season till even later.
+But it must always be remembered that the external application of the
+water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit
+Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the
+course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October.
+The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally
+the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from
+3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day,
+and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine
+and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of
+the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vichy: Casino. The Vichy Springs.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the <a name = "vichy_casino"
+id = "vichy_casino"><b>Casino</b></a>, a&nbsp;handsome
+comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
+and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
+park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
+elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A&nbsp;gallery, running across the
+building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
+theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for
+800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading,
+billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance
+ticket, 2&nbsp;frs.; a&nbsp;month, 25 frs. There is music every morning,
+a&nbsp;concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
+A&nbsp;great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
+members; also books, pianos, and music. A&nbsp;professor of billiards is
+attached to the Casino.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_springs" id = "vichy_springs"><b>The Vichy
+Springs.</b></a>&mdash;The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
+They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
+carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
+each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
+eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
+organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
+specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best
+with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities
+which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum
+quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz.
+The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., taken at different times
+throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water
+may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are
+filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold
+graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts.
+30 grammes equal 1 &nbsp;oz.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>The Springs and their peculiarities.</b>&mdash;Under the vestibule of
+the principal establishment are three important springs&mdash;the Grande
+Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see <a href =
+"#map359">plan</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vichy: Grande-Grille, Chomel, Mesdames.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_grandegrille" id = "vichy_grandegrille"><b>The
+Grande-Grille</b></a>, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
+<span class = "pagenum">362</span>
+<a name = "page362" id = "page362"> </a>
+<!-- png 422 -->
+with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the
+viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
+gravel.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The <a name = "vichy_chomel" id =
+"vichy_chomel"><b>Puits-Chomel</b></a>, 113° Fahr. The water of this
+spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very
+valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its
+irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters
+it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of
+digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can
+in many cases profitably replace the other springs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "mesdames" id = "mesdames"><b>Mesdames</b></a>, 61° Fahr.,
+highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and
+in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has
+been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy
+of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his
+usual strength.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113°
+Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
+supplying the baths.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vichy: Prunelle, Parc, Hôpital, Celestins.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
+opposite the military hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_prunelle" id =
+"vichy_prunelle"><b>Source Prunelle</b></a>, a&nbsp;cold spring,
+recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
+A&nbsp;little farther E. is the <b>Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.</b>,
+principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
+beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
+park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the <a name = "vichy_parc" id =
+"vichy_parc"><b>Source du Parc, 71° Fahr.</b></a>, recommended for
+sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the
+intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic
+irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the Casino, in front of the town
+hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_hopital" id =
+"vichy_hopital"><b>Source de l’Hôpital</b></a> or Rosalie, 89° Fahr.,
+resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is
+recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs,
+dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is
+particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are
+deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian
+tumours and other diseases of females.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
+important springs, the <a name = "vichy_celestins" id =
+"vichy_celestins"><b>Sources des Celestins</b></a>, 54° and 58° Fahr.,
+of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
+largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
+their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
+springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the
+urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to
+digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either
+the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of
+the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just
+beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des
+Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77°
+Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a stimulating
+<span class = "pagenum">363</span>
+<a name = "page363" id = "page363"> </a>
+<!-- png 423 -->
+action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and
+is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder,
+attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being
+cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy
+waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of
+the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in
+others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other
+cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille
+would be preferable.” &mdash;<i>Dr. E.&nbsp;Lee.</i></p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Source Hauterive. Influence of Vichy Water.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the <a name =
+"vichy_hauterive" id = "vichy_hauterive"><b>Source Hauterive</b></a>,
+57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities
+it resembles the Celestins.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_water_influence" id = "vichy_water_influence">The
+principal use</a> of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
+in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
+dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration
+or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often
+connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in
+enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis.
+Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the
+chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and
+for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period
+of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths
+of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be
+distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it
+can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the
+digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the
+abnormally acid condition of the blood.” &mdash;<i>Madden’s Health
+Resorts.</i> “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however,
+a&nbsp;very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of
+either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute
+or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of
+attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the
+last attack, a&nbsp;repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as
+much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis.”
+&mdash;<i>Dr. Daumas.</i> “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy
+course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and
+assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone
+of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more
+rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more
+freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present,
+ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and
+therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the
+colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind.” &mdash;<i>Dr.
+P.&nbsp;James.</i></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">364</span>
+<a name = "page364" id = "page364"> </a>
+<!-- png 424 -->
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "vichy_chemical" id =
+"vichy_chemical">
+CHEMICAL ANALYSIS of the Principal Springs.</a></h5>
+
+<table class = "smaller">
+<tr>
+<td>
+GG = Grande Grille.<br>
+Ch = Chomel.<br>
+Md = <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Mesdammes’">Mesdames</ins>.<br>
+L = Lucas.
+</td>
+<td class = "leftline">
+P = Park.<br>
+H = Hopital.<br>
+Ce = Célestins.<br>
+Hr = Hauterive.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class = "grid">
+<tr>
+<td class = "outline center" colspan = "3" rowspan = "2">
+&nbsp;<br>
+Acids and Bases contained in each litre.<br>
+&nbsp;</td>
+<td class = "outline center" colspan = "8">NAMES OF THE SPRINGS.<br>
+&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "outline">
+<!-- <td></td> -->
+<td>GG</td>
+<td>Ch</td>
+<td>Md</td>
+<td>L</td>
+<td>P</td>
+<td>H</td>
+<td>Ce</td>
+<td>Hr</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Carbonic Acid</td>
+<td class = "number">4.418</td>
+<td class = "number">4.429</td>
+<td class = "number">5.029</td>
+<td class = "number">5.348</td>
+<td class = "number">5.071</td>
+<td class = "number">4.719</td>
+<td class = "number">4.705</td>
+<td class = "number">5.640</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Sulphuric &nbsp; „</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+<td class = "number">.141</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+<td class = "number">.177</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+<td class = "number">.164</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Phosphoric &nbsp; „</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.038</td>
+<td class = "center">traces</td>
+<td class = "number">.038</td>
+<td class = "number">.076</td>
+<td class = "number">.025</td>
+<td class = "number">.050</td>
+<td class = "number">.625</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Arsenic &nbsp; „</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+<td class = "number">.001</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Hydrochloric Acid</td>
+<td class = "number">.332</td>
+<td class = "number">.334</td>
+<td class = "number">.222</td>
+<td class = "number">.324</td>
+<td class = "number">.344</td>
+<td class = "number">.324</td>
+<td class = "number">.234</td>
+<td class = "number">.334</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Silica</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.032</td>
+<td class = "number">.050</td>
+<td class = "number">.055</td>
+<td class = "number">.050</td>
+<td class = "number">.060</td>
+<td class = "number">.071</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Protoxide of Iron</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.012</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.008</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Lime</td>
+<td class = "number">.169</td>
+<td class = "number">.169</td>
+<td class = "number">.235</td>
+<td class = "number">.212</td>
+<td class = "number">.239</td>
+<td class = "number">.222</td>
+<td class = "number">.180</td>
+<td class = "number">.168</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Strontia</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.008</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Magnesia</td>
+<td class = "number">.097</td>
+<td class = "number">.108</td>
+<td class = "number">.134</td>
+<td class = "number">.088</td>
+<td class = "number">.068</td>
+<td class = "number">.064</td>
+<td class = "number">.105</td>
+<td class = "number">.160</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Potash</td>
+<td class = "number">.182</td>
+<td class = "number">.192</td>
+<td class = "number">.098</td>
+<td class = "number">.146</td>
+<td class = "number">.151</td>
+<td class = "number">.228</td>
+<td class = "number">.163</td>
+<td class = "number">.098</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Soda</td>
+<td class = "number">2.488</td>
+<td class = "number">2.536</td>
+<td class = "number">1.957</td>
+<td class = "number">2.501</td>
+<td class = "number">2.500</td>
+<td class = "number">2.500</td>
+<td class = "number">2.560</td>
+<td class = "number">2.368</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "toppad">
+<td class = "center" colspan = "3">
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+Totals</span></td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.997</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.043</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.866</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.877</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.687</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.302</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.327</td>
+<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">9.039</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class = "leftline">
+<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td>
+<td><span class = "invisible">1.2345</span></td>
+<td class = "rightline">
+<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class = "center bottomline" colspan = "3">
+Saline ingredients<br>
+in each litre.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "topline sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Free&nbsp;Carbonic&nbsp;Acid</td>
+<td class = "number">.908</td>
+<td class = "number">.768</td>
+<td class = "number">1.908</td>
+<td class = "number">1.751</td>
+<td class = "number">1.555</td>
+<td class = "number">1.067</td>
+<td class = "number">1.049</td>
+<td class = "number">2.183</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Bicarb. of Soda</td>
+<td class = "number">4.883</td>
+<td class = "number">5.091</td>
+<td class = "number">4.016</td>
+<td class = "number">5.004</td>
+<td class = "number">4.857</td>
+<td class = "number">5.029</td>
+<td class = "number">5.103</td>
+<td class = "number">4.687</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> &nbsp; „&nbsp; </span>Potash</td>
+<td class = "number">.352</td>
+<td class = "number">.371</td>
+<td class = "number">.185</td>
+<td class = "number">.282</td>
+<td class = "number">.292</td>
+<td class = "number">.440</td>
+<td class = "number">.315</td>
+<td class = "number">.189</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> &nbsp; „&nbsp;
+</span>Magnesia</td>
+<td class = "number">.303</td>
+<td class = "number">.338</td>
+<td class = "number">.429</td>
+<td class = "number">.275</td>
+<td class = "number">.213</td>
+<td class = "number">.200</td>
+<td class = "number">.328</td>
+<td class = "number">.501</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> &nbsp; „&nbsp;
+</span>Strontia</td>
+<td class = "number">.303</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.005</td>
+<td class = "number">.005</td>
+<td class = "number">.005</td>
+<td class = "number">.005</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> &nbsp; „&nbsp; </span>Lime</td>
+<td class = "number">.434</td>
+<td class = "number">.427</td>
+<td class = "number">.604</td>
+<td class = "number">.545</td>
+<td class = "number">.614</td>
+<td class = "number">.570</td>
+<td class = "number">.462</td>
+<td class = "number">.432</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap"> &nbsp; „ </span>Protox. of
+Iron</p></td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.026</td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.004</td>
+<td class = "number">.017</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of Soda</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+<td class = "number">.250</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+<td class = "number">.314</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+<td class = "number">.291</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Phosphate</td>
+<td class = "number">.130</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "center">traces</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.140</td>
+<td class = "number">.046</td>
+<td class = "number">.091</td>
+<td class = "number">.046</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Arseniate</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.003</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+<td class = "number">.002</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><p>Chloride of Sodium</p></td>
+<td class = "number">.534</td>
+<td class = "number">.534</td>
+<td class = "number">.355</td>
+<td class = "number">.518</td>
+<td class = "number">.550</td>
+<td class = "number">.518</td>
+<td class = "number">.534</td>
+<td class = "number">.534</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Silica</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.070</td>
+<td class = "number">.032</td>
+<td class = "number">.050</td>
+<td class = "number">.055</td>
+<td class = "number">.050</td>
+<td class = "number">.060</td>
+<td class = "number">.071</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline toppad">
+<td class = "center" colspan = "3">
+<span class = "smallcaps">
+Totals</span></td>
+<td class = "number outline">7.914</td>
+<td class = "number outline">7.959</td>
+<td class = "number outline">7.811</td>
+<td class = "number outline">8.797</td>
+<td class = "number outline">8.601</td>
+<td class = "number outline">8.222</td>
+<td class = "number outline">8.244</td>
+<td class = "number outline">8.956</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class = "smaller">
+The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
+slightly from the Célestins.</p>
+
+<p>In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
+spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vichy: Drives.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vichy_drives" id = "vichy_drives">
+Excursions.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_cabs" id = "vichy_cabs"><b>CAB FARES.</b></a>&mdash;The
+course within the town from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> to
+12 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> with 1 horse, 1½ fr.; 2
+horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3&nbsp;frs.,
+and 2&nbsp;frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9&nbsp;frs.; the
+day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4&nbsp;frs., the
+following hours, 3&nbsp;frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day,
+25 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Art. 17&mdash;The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is
+always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the
+entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">365</span>
+<a name = "page365" id = "page365"> </a>
+<!-- png 425 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Art. 18.&mdash;The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
+rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
+beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
+Justices (about 2&nbsp;m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse,
+7&nbsp;frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and
+back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux,
+and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse,
+8&nbsp;frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.;
+2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16
+frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2
+horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse,
+18 frs.; 2 horses, 24 frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Cusset.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "cusset" id = "cusset"><b>Cusset</b></a>, pop. 6200, on the
+Sichon, 2&nbsp;m. E. from Vichy. <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;du Centre, in the
+Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into
+the town is the <b>Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie</b>, a&nbsp;neat
+building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with
+turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold.
+The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only
+1&nbsp;fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of
+Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½&nbsp;m. S.E. Take
+the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross,
+but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
+called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the
+extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a
+miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest
+part, 1¼&nbsp;m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms.
+Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and
+flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the
+Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle
+said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1&nbsp;fr.
+each.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "montagneverte grivats">
+<span class = "headnote">Montagne-Verte. Grivats.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
+ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good
+view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the
+neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_to_busset" id = "vichy_to_busset"><b>Vichy to
+Busset</b></a> by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10&nbsp;m. S.&nbsp;Return
+by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the
+Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is <a name = "grivats" id
+= "grivats"><b>Grivats</b></a>, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles
+de Vichy, called also Grivats, a&nbsp;variegated cotton stuff used for
+gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½
+fr. the mètre (1&nbsp;⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at
+Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1&nbsp;fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all
+made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in
+Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de
+l’Hôpital.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">366</span>
+<a name = "page366" id = "page366"> </a>
+<!-- png 426 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches
+the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½&nbsp;m. S. from
+Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate
+quarry, charge to visit 1&nbsp;fr., but it is not worth entering. The
+favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade
+du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1&nbsp;fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are
+very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of
+Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Busset. Randan.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
+Busset, 2½&nbsp;m. from the Ardoisière, or 10&nbsp;m. from Vichy by this
+road. <a name = "busset" id = "busset"><b>Busset</b></a> is a poor
+village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset,
+built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid
+view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the
+Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy,
+5&nbsp;m. N.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the
+village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins
+of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the
+Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required
+from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_to_randan" id = "vichy_to_randan"><b>Vichy to
+Randan.</b></a>&mdash;Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
+<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>; arrives at <a name = "randan" id
+= "randan"><b>Randan</b></a> at 1 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span>; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by
+5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on
+Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4&nbsp;m., by Maulmont
+costs 3½ frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Vesse-Intermittent-Spring.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
+hand a small house with the sign <a name = "vesse_spring" id =
+"vesse_spring"><span class = "smallcaps">Source
+Intermittente</span></a>. In the garden is the very interesting
+intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it
+rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface.
+During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue,
+from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the
+stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois
+Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
+extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
+belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
+several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame
+Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a&nbsp;beautiful little
+chapel, and a large kitchen (see <a href = "#page368">p.&nbsp;368</a>).
+From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat
+of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the
+site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier
+is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey
+may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the
+river.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "vichy_to_thiers" id = "vichy_to_thiers"><b>Vichy to
+Thiers</b></a> by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5&nbsp;m. S. from
+Vichy are the village of <a name = "st_yorre" id = "st_yorre"><b>St.
+Yorre</b></a> and the Larbaud mineral
+<span class = "pagenum">367</span>
+<a name = "page367" id = "page367"> </a>
+<!-- png 427 -->
+water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The
+water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon,
+5&nbsp;m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the
+station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
+bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1&nbsp;m. W.&nbsp;The
+broad road opposite the station leads to <a name = "ris" id =
+"ris"><b>Ris</b></a> (pronounce the&nbsp;s) about 1&nbsp;m. E. It is a
+large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street.
+The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and
+semicircular apse.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+For <a name = "chateldon" id = "chateldon"><b>Chateldon</b></a>, 3¼ m.
+S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to
+second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated
+in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered
+with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H.&nbsp;Camin,
+pension 6 to 7&nbsp;frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but
+not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at
+the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<b>Maringues</b> is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy
+de Guillaume, 3¼&nbsp;m. S. from the station.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Thiers.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
+<a name = "thiers" id = "thiers"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,230.
+<i>Inns:</i> *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on
+almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from
+Clermont, passing through a mountainous country.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
+built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
+above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.”
+At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
+the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
+different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
+surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture
+of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants.
+The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of
+the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the
+manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt.
+Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th
+cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel
+a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride.
+The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th
+cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest,
+built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second
+altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent.,
+representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is
+modern. 3&nbsp;m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a
+pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent
+butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but
+the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour.
+The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of
+<span class = "pagenum">368</span>
+<a name = "page368" id = "page368"> </a>
+<!-- png 428 -->
+Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the
+country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line
+winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring
+torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the
+course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼&nbsp;m. from Thiers by rail is
+the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
+Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine
+Coiffier Ruse, a&nbsp;marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
+unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch
+financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The
+castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially
+restored. 3¾&nbsp;m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is
+<b>Aigueperse</b>, pop. 2600. <i>Inn:</i> St. Louis. A&nbsp;coach runs
+between Aigueperse and Randan, 8&nbsp;m. E. (see below). Between Vichy
+and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of
+Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾&nbsp;m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant
+afternoon drive.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the
+Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most
+imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the
+Bèbre, pop. 2830; <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;de l’Écu; with a castle (14th
+cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see <a href =
+"#la_palisse">p.&nbsp;346</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">224</span>
+<a name = "st_remi_en_rollat" id =
+"st_remi_en_rollat"><b>SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT</b></a>, 867 ft. above the
+sea.<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Gannat. Aigueperse.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">235½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">294½</span>
+<a name = "gannat" id = "gannat"><b>GANNAT</b></a>, pop. 6000.
+<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Poste. A&nbsp;town of crooked streets, on the
+Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St.
+Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
+good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
+by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
+Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
+Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
+the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
+Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s <i>Normandy, Brittany, and
+Touraine</i>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">242</span>
+<span class = "miles to">288</span>
+<a name = "aigueperse" id = "aigueperse"><b>AIGUEPERSE</b></a>, pop.
+2600. <i>Hotels:</i> St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the
+Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of
+the Ursulines, built in 1650. A&nbsp;coach from this station goes to
+Randan in the Limagne, 8&nbsp;m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle
+of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in
+<span class = "pagenum">369</span>
+<a name = "page369" id = "page369"> </a>
+<!-- png 429 -->
+1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest
+of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the
+Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Riom.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">253</span>
+<span class = "miles to">277</span>
+<a name = "riom" id = "riom"><b>RIOM</b></a>, 1105 ft. above the sea,
+pop. 11,000. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences
+to Volvic, 3¼&nbsp;m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5&nbsp;m. N.; and to
+Châteauneuf, 20&nbsp;m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St.
+Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier
+having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the
+same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St.
+Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th
+and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is
+the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
+Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
+choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
+called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 <span class =
+"smallroman">A.M.</span>, are the mineral baths of <a name =
+"chateauneuf" id = "chateauneuf"><b>Châteauneuf</b></a>, pop. 1000.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the
+fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of
+the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous
+diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1&nbsp;fr.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon,
+most picturesquely situated among mountains. <i>Hotels:</i> Bains;
+Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every
+accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels,
+gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100°
+Fahr.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is <a name = "volvic_desc" id =
+"volvic_desc">Volvic</a>, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church,
+the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from
+the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see <a href =
+"#volvic">p.&nbsp;377</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Clermont-Ferrand.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">260½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">269½</span>
+<a name = "clermont_ferrand" id =
+"clermont_ferrand"><b>CLERMONT-FERRAND</b></a>, 1335 ft. above the sea,
+pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the
+principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude,
+while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station.
+<i>Hotels:</i> in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for
+commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France.
+All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic
+Gardens, the H.&nbsp;des Facultés, a&nbsp;small but good house. Among
+the hotels in front of the station the best is the H.&nbsp;des
+Voyageurs.
+<span class = "pagenum">370</span>
+<a name = "page370" id = "page370"> </a>
+<!-- png 430 -->
+Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and
+Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the <a href =
+"#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome</a> (see page 372). In the “Place” are a
+large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for
+excursions.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral.</span></p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "clermont_post" id = "clermont_post">general post
+office</a> is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the
+cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a
+charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a
+bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
+A&nbsp;little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue
+is the Temple Protestant, service 1 <span class =
+"smallroman">P.M.</span> The first narrow street beyond the post office
+leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.</p>
+
+<p>Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the
+moist and crystalline (glacé) state.</p>
+
+<p>The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the <a name =
+"clermont_cathedral" id = "clermont_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>,
+founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt
+and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round
+belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are
+twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled
+piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and
+immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window
+resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir
+contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive
+and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows
+of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete,
+having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the
+apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the
+rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock,
+with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th
+cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is
+a miracle-working image of Mary and Child.</p>
+
+<p>The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
+Vernines, a&nbsp;small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
+principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
+to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
+is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
+shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
+born.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port.</span></p>
+
+<p>The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
+Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains.
+<span class = "pagenum">371</span>
+<a name = "page371" id = "page371"> </a>
+<!-- png 431 -->
+The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
+Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
+these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to <a name =
+"clermont_notre_dame" id = "clermont_notre_dame"><b>Notre Dame du
+Port</b></a>, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored
+in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept.
+The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental
+friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns
+in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal
+tower.</p>
+
+<p>In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round
+the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their
+capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
+surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
+less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
+massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
+window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
+ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.</p>
+
+<p>Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
+Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
+and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
+when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
+which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
+miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
+for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
+Mary.</p>
+
+<p>It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban&nbsp;II.
+and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake
+the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an
+immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of
+God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits
+of the Crusaders.</p>
+
+<p>The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide
+Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
+Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
+the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
+Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens.</span></p>
+
+<p>Behind the Academy are the <a name = "clermont_botanic" id =
+"clermont_botanic"><b>Botanic Gardens</b></a>, in which a considerable
+part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit
+trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a
+small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu.
+<span class = "pagenum">372</span>
+<a name = "page372" id = "page372"> </a>
+<!-- png 432 -->
+Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and
+flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Romagnat.</span></p>
+
+<p>3¾ m. S. from Clermont is <a name = "romagnat" id =
+"romagnat"><b>Romagnat</b></a>, pop. 2000, at the foot of
+M.&nbsp;Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½&nbsp;m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft.,
+the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully
+defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar,
+whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
+supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>,
+p.&nbsp;19.)</p>
+
+<p>Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
+Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;
+or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
+<b>Baraque</b>, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.</p>
+
+<p>The <a name = "puy_de_dome" id = "puy_de_dome"><b>Puy-de-Dome</b></a>
+is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered
+with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock
+cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the
+variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is
+grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with
+flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which
+the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect
+craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la
+Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with
+the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins
+of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman
+temple to Mercury.</p>
+
+<p>For <a href = "#clermont_to_brive">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</a> by
+Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p.&nbsp;376. Junction at Clermont
+with rail to Lyons, 121&nbsp;m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers),
+Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see <a href =
+"#lyons_to_clermont">p.&nbsp;349</a>).</p>
+
+<p>From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the
+Allier to La Bastide, 116&nbsp;m. S.&nbsp;Some parts of the valley are
+very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267&nbsp;m., Le
+Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼&nbsp;m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.;
+272&nbsp;m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½&nbsp;m., Coudes. The station
+is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining
+hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Issoire.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">282½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">247½</span>
+<a name = "issoire" id = "issoire"><b>ISSOIRE</b></a>, pop. 6400, and
+1200 ft. above the sea-level. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Pezissat; opposite
+each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The
+principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting
+specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
+<span class = "pagenum">373</span>
+<a name = "page373" id = "page373"> </a>
+<!-- png 433 -->
+exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
+sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
+elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
+characteristic beauties of the style. A&nbsp;mosaic decoration of
+differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
+chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
+Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
+painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
+eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
+below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
+complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
+altar.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Le Breuil. Ardes.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">287¾</span>
+<span class = "miles to">242¼</span>
+<a name = "le_breuil" id = "le_breuil"><b>LE BREUIL</b></a>, 1287 ft.,
+pop. 1000. Opposite station, <i>Inn:</i> H.&nbsp;Beranger. Coaches await
+passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2&nbsp;m. W.,
+and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly
+and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼&nbsp;m. from St. Germain,
+a&nbsp;bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
+carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
+<span class = "sidetrip">
+2½&nbsp;m. farther is <a name = "ardes" id = "ardes"><b>Ardes</b></a>;
+<i>Inns:</i> Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze.
+In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored
+and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and
+Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open
+book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great
+basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical
+rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot
+of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road,
+contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below
+are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed
+among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic
+formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière,
+perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A&nbsp;little way
+beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff
+resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About
+4½&nbsp;m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed
+by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest
+and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About
+5&nbsp;m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of
+St. Pesade.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a&nbsp;village with mineral
+waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
+Between Brassal, <i>Inn:</i> Chevalier, 3¾&nbsp;m. farther S., 1322 ft.
+above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
+clay.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Arvant. Brioude.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">298</span>
+<span class = "miles to">232</span>
+<a name = "arvant" id = "arvant"><b>ARVANT</b></a>, 1400 ft., a dirty
+hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the
+inns is the H.&nbsp;Voyageurs.
+<span class = "pagenum">374</span>
+<a name = "page374" id = "page374"> </a>
+<!-- png 434 -->
+Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110&nbsp;m. S.W., traversing
+the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See
+Black’s <i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
+
+<p>From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences
+the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
+woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
+and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
+between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾&nbsp;m. S. from
+Neussargues, 7&nbsp;m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½&nbsp;m. N. from
+Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit,
+which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The
+span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct
+1851&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">304</span>
+<span class = "miles to">226</span>
+<a name = "brioude" id = "brioude"><b>BRIOUDE</b></a>, 1430 ft. above
+the sea, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> *Nord; Commerce. A&nbsp;dirty town on a
+tableland, 1¼&nbsp;m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien
+(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red
+sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals.
+The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over
+which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another
+portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular
+arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing
+large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but
+plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the
+two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
+lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
+cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
+chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
+stones.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
+with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
+capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
+triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
+profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
+beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.</p>
+
+<p>Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the
+Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the
+plain.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">318½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">211½</span>
+<a name = "st_georges_daurac_stn" id = "st_georges_daurac_stn"><b>ST.
+GEORGES-D’AURAC</b></a>, 1872 ft. above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Lombardin,
+near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32&nbsp;m. E., and for
+St. Etienne 54½&nbsp;m. farther. (See <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#st_georges_daurac">p.&nbsp;91</a>, and <a class = "paris"
+href = "paris.html#map46">map p.&nbsp;46</a>.)</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">375</span>
+<a name = "page375" id = "page375"> </a>
+<!-- png 435 -->
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">323</span>
+<span class = "miles to">207</span>
+<a name = "langeac" id = "langeac"><b>LANGEAC</b></a>, pop. 4800.
+<i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Lombardin; Pascon. (See <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#langeac">p.&nbsp;91</a>, and <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map46">map p.&nbsp;46</a>.) Between Langeac and Langogne the
+train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst
+vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or
+grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark
+ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance
+while being hurried past in the train. 3¾&nbsp;m. S. from Langeac is
+Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The
+fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the
+rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½&nbsp;m. S.
+from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then
+follow the stations of <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. (p.&nbsp;91);
+Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238&nbsp;ft.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Langogne.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">364½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">165½</span>
+<a name = "langogne" id = "langogne"><b>LANGOGNE</b></a>, 2940 ft. above
+the sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly
+situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. <a class
+= "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne">88</a> and <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas_to_langogne">94</a>, and <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#map46">map p.&nbsp;46</a>.) 7½&nbsp;m.
+farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½&nbsp;m. farther S., La
+Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A&nbsp;few miles
+to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères,
+6&nbsp;m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now
+passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">390</span>
+<span class = "miles to">140</span>
+<a name = "villefort" id = "villefort"><b>VILLEFORT</b></a>, 1820 ft.,
+pop. 2000. A&nbsp;poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the
+foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing
+through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½&nbsp;m.&nbsp;W.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "bagnols_les_bains" id = "bagnols_les_bains"><b>Bagnols les
+Bains</b></a>, pop. 500. <i>Inns:</i> Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
+A&nbsp;poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
+Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
+unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in
+rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
+neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
+plenty of game on the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous
+country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At <a name = "la_grande_combe"
+id = "la_grande_combe"><b>La Grande Combe</b></a>, with the two stations
+of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines
+commence which extend to Alais.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Alais.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">419</span>
+<span class = "miles to">111</span>
+<a name = "alais" id = "alais"><b>ALAIS</b></a>, pop. 22,000, on the
+Gardon. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like
+Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields,
+iron-works, and manufactories.
+<span class = "pagenum">376</span>
+<a name = "page376" id = "page376"> </a>
+<!-- png 436 -->
+This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of
+Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other.
+Some very capital wine is made at Alais.</p>
+
+<p>Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62&nbsp;m. N.E. to
+Teil (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">p.&nbsp;96</a>,
+and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map56">map p.&nbsp;56</a>);
+also to <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun</a>,
+35½&nbsp;m. E. (see p.&nbsp;99, and <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map56">map p.&nbsp;56</a>).</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">450</span>
+<span class = "miles to">80</span>
+<a name = "nimes_stn" id = "nimes_stn"><b>NÎMES</b></a> (see <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">p. 101</a>, and <a class = "paris"
+href = "paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">467</span>
+<span class = "miles to">63</span>
+<a name = "tarascon_stn" id = "tarascon_stn"><b>TARASCON</b></a> (see
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">p. 66</a>, and <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p.&nbsp;66</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">470</span>
+<span class = "miles to">60</span>
+<b>ARLES</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">p.
+68</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p.
+66</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">499½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">30½</span>
+<b>ST. CHAMAS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#st_chamas">p. 76</a>, and <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map66">map p.&nbsp;66</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">512½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">17½</span>
+<b>ROGNAC</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">p.
+77</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map
+p.&nbsp;66</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "miles from">518</span>
+<span class = "miles to">12</span>
+<a name = "pas_des_lanciers" id =
+"pas_des_lanciers"><b>PAS-DES-LANCIERS</b></a>.<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span>
+<span class = "miles from">530</span>
+<b>MARSEILLES</b> (see <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles">p. 111</a>, and <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#map123">map p.&nbsp;123</a>).<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "clermont_to_brive" id =
+"clermont_to_brive">
+Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard,</a></h5>
+
+<p>122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5&nbsp;m., Volvic
+12½&nbsp;m., Vauriat 17½&nbsp;m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20&nbsp;m.,
+Pont-Gibaud 24&nbsp;m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½&nbsp;m.,
+Bourgheade-Herment 35½&nbsp;m., Laqueuille 40½&nbsp;m., Meymac
+73&nbsp;m., and Tulle 105¾&nbsp;m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼&nbsp;m.
+N.E. from Brive.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "royat" id = "royat">
+<span class = "headnote">Royat.</span></a></p>
+
+<p>From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends
+the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
+station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
+adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
+Royat are H.&nbsp;Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons.
+Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church,
+founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was
+heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept
+is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second.
+Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a
+crypt supported on six colonnettes.</p>
+
+<p>In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
+J.&nbsp;C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on
+consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads
+<span class = "pagenum">377</span>
+<a name = "page377" id = "page377"> </a>
+<!-- png 437 -->
+down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth
+sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are
+allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others
+are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains.
+<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_mart" id = "st_mart">
+St. Mart.</a></span>
+The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart.
+In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of
+the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of
+which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the
+establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the
+chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and
+magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The
+charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the
+establishment the H.&nbsp;St. Mart; the H.&nbsp;Splendide; Bains;
+Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of
+the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre;
+Sources. St. Mart is 1¼&nbsp;m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing
+through Chamalières. A&nbsp;great variety of excursions in the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">5</span>
+<span class = "miles to">117</span>
+<a name = "durtol" id = "durtol"><b>DURTOL</b></a>, situated among high
+wooded mountains.<br>
+&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille.</span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">12½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">109½</span>
+<a name = "volvic" id = "volvic"><b>VOLVIC</b></a>. In the neighbourhood
+of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct
+crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front
+of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½&nbsp;m. E. from Volvic
+by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le
+Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent.
+Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries
+(see <a href = "#volvic_desc">p.&nbsp;369</a>).</p>
+
+<p>The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½&nbsp;m., St.
+Ours-les-Roches 20&nbsp;m., and then arrives at the station for <a name
+= "pontgibaud" id = "pontgibaud"><b>Pont-Gibaud</b></a>, pop. 1300,
+24&nbsp;m. distant. <i>Inns:</i> H.&nbsp;Johannel; H.&nbsp;Beraud. Their
+omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are
+situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava
+from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses
+of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span>
+<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span>
+<span class = "miles from">40½</span>
+<span class = "miles to">81½</span>
+<a name = "laqueuille" id = "laqueuille"><b>LAQUEUILLE</b></a>, 3624 ft.
+above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½&nbsp;m. S.E., and
+for Bourboule 8&nbsp;m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore
+passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above
+the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule
+passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+
+<!-- png 439 -->
+<p class = "illustration">
+<span class = "pagenum">opp. 378</span>
+Environs of<br>
+MONT DORE<br>
+and LA BOURBOULE<br>
+<a name = "map378" id = "map378" href = "images/map378.png"
+target = "_blank">
+<img src = "images/map378thumb.png" width = "447" height = "318"
+alt = "see caption"></a>
+</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">378</span>
+<a name = "page378" id = "page378"> </a>
+<!-- png 438 -->
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "mont_dore" id = "mont_dore">
+MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne,
+3402 ft. above the sea. <i>Hotels.</i>&mdash;Considering the style of
+their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
+the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
+coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
+difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
+the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
+Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H.&nbsp;du
+Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
+rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered
+second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge
+as much as those of the first class: H.&nbsp;Bardet-Chanonat;
+H.&nbsp;Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H.&nbsp;Ramade;
+H.&nbsp;Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
+handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
+the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
+Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
+other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
+adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
+treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
+within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
+Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the
+usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
+two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
+bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
+temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in
+an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source
+César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand
+end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table
+mixed with the wine.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
+little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in
+and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are
+of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the
+more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements
+for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
+month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
+July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then
+2&nbsp;frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a&nbsp;nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
+Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
+109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
+in July is 10 frs., in other months 5&nbsp;frs. The men who carry the
+sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
+tickets bought at the office of the baths.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">379</span>
+<a name = "page379" id = "page379"> </a>
+<!-- png 440 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "mont_dore_water" id =
+"mont_dore_water">
+Contents of the Springs of Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</a></h5>
+
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td width = "40%">
+MdS = Madeleine Spring.<br>
+PvS = Pavillon Spring.<br>
+RiS = Rigny Spring.
+</td>
+<td>
+CsS = Caesar Spring.<br>
+RaS = Ramond Spring.
+<p>BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class = "grid">
+<tr>
+<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span><br>
+&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td>
+<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td>
+<td class = "box">MdS</td>
+<td class = "box">PvS</td>
+<td class = "box">RiS</td>
+<td class = "box">CsS</td>
+<td class = "box">RaS</td>
+<td class = "box">BPCS</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "topline sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Free carbonic acid gas</td>
+<td>0.3552</td>
+<td>0.3810</td>
+<td>0.3644</td>
+<td>0.5967</td>
+<td>0.4997</td>
+<td>0.0518</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Bicarbonate of soda</td>
+<td>0.5362</td>
+<td>0.5452</td>
+<td>0.5375</td>
+<td>0.5361</td>
+<td>0.5362</td>
+<td>2.8920</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap">&nbsp; &nbsp;„ &nbsp;</span>of
+potash</td>
+<td>0.0309</td>
+<td>0.0309</td>
+<td>0.0232</td>
+<td>0.0212</td>
+<td>0.0212</td>
+<td>....</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap">&nbsp; &nbsp;„ &nbsp;</span>of
+lime</td>
+<td>0.3423</td>
+<td>0.3142</td>
+<td>0.3092</td>
+<td>0.3209</td>
+<td>0.2720</td>
+<td>0.1905</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap">&nbsp; &nbsp;„ &nbsp;</span>of
+magnesia</td>
+<td>0.1757</td>
+<td>0.1676</td>
+<td>0.1628</td>
+<td>0.1676</td>
+<td>0.1647</td>
+<td>....</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap">&nbsp; &nbsp;„ &nbsp;</span>of
+protoxide of iron</p></td>
+<td>0.0207</td>
+<td>0.0235</td>
+<td>0.025</td>
+<td>0.0258</td>
+<td>0.0317</td>
+<td>0.0021</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Chloride of Sodium</td>
+<td>0.3685</td>
+<td>0.3630</td>
+<td>0.3599</td>
+<td>0.3587</td>
+<td>0.3578</td>
+<td>2.8406</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of soda</td>
+<td>0.0761</td>
+<td>0.0761</td>
+<td>0.0761</td>
+<td>0.0756</td>
+<td>0.0737</td>
+<td>0.2084</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Arseniate of soda</td>
+<td>0.00096</td>
+<td>0.00096</td>
+<td>0.00096</td>
+<td>0.0009</td>
+<td>0.00095</td>
+<td>0.02847</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Silicic acid</td>
+<td>0.1654</td>
+<td>0.1686</td>
+<td>0.1653</td>
+<td>0.1552</td>
+<td>0.1550</td>
+<td>0.1200</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class = "sideline">
+<td colspan = "3">Alumina</td>
+<td>0.0112</td>
+<td>0.0094</td>
+<td>0.0101</td>
+<td>0.0083</td>
+<td>0.0065</td>
+<td class = "center">Traces.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
+potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters
+is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more
+abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The
+temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27°
+above the hottest of Mont-Dore.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
+asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
+marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
+nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.&mdash;Madden’s <i>Health
+Resorts</i>. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken
+daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite,
+and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this
+is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which
+frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a
+disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication
+that the saturation point has been obtained.&mdash;Lee’s
+<i>Baths</i>.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a&nbsp;supply of warm
+clothing is necessary. For excursions, a&nbsp;vehicle with 2 horses
+costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "mont_dore_excursions" id =
+"mont_dore_excursions"><i>Excursions.</i></a>&mdash;There are many
+pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic
+hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at
+intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the
+dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the
+ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these
+confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush
+and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the
+district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance
+as well as the way to the different places.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">380</span>
+<a name = "page380" id = "page380"> </a>
+<!-- png 441 -->
+
+<p>One of the first excursions undertaken is to the <a name =
+"queureuilh lake guery orcival"><b>Cascade du Queureuilh</b></a>, about
+2&nbsp;m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls
+and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region,
+is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below),
+5&nbsp;m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3&nbsp;from the falls. The stream, after
+rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard
+basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists
+often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet,
+a&nbsp;placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile
+below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage.
+On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
+made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾&nbsp;m., to the Saut-du-Loup
+1¾&nbsp;m., and to the Pré du Barbier.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Lake Guéry. Orcival.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The excursion to <a name = "lake_guery" id = "lake_guery"><b>Lake
+Guéry</b></a>, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in
+the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road,
+just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view
+of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le
+Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the
+Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the
+shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½&nbsp;m. W. from the main road,
+in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake,
+at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the
+left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other
+clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge
+basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of <a name = "orcival"
+id = "orcival"><b>Orcival</b></a>, with an inn and a church of the 9th
+and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the
+earth. 2½&nbsp;m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante,
+a&nbsp;slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the
+Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11&nbsp;m. S.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
+5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an
+extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
+menhirs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12&nbsp;m.
+E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
+less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake
+Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼&nbsp;m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a
+bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and <a href =
+"#pic_sancy">Sancy</a> (see p.&nbsp;381).</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2&nbsp;m., the
+cascades of Vernière 3&nbsp;m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼&nbsp;m. (<a href =
+"#page385">p.&nbsp;385</a>); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾&nbsp;m. (<a
+href = "#page385">p.&nbsp;385</a>).</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pic de Sancy.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The most important excursion is to the summit of the <b>Pic de</b>
+<span class = "pagenum">381</span>
+<a name = "page381" id = "page381"> </a>
+<!-- png 442 -->
+<a name = "pic_sancy" id = "pic_sancy"><b>Sancy</b></a>, 6188 ft. above
+the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5&nbsp;m. S.
+from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good
+bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6&nbsp;frs. From
+the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on
+the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
+shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
+landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
+little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft.
+To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated
+from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after,
+the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea.
+A&nbsp;little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne,
+descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite
+are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A&nbsp;path at the foot leads to
+an old alum mine.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of
+the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the
+infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy
+meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here&mdash;25 c. charged for
+taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20
+minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
+highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
+great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54&nbsp;m. in
+circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
+granite rocks. A&nbsp;half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
+the <a name = "pic_ferrand" id = "pic_ferrand"><b>Puy Ferrand</b></a>,
+6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6&nbsp;m. N., by the Chemin des
+Crètes.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a&nbsp;poor
+hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing
+a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
+the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières,
+and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two
+places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate
+the resting stations. 2¼&nbsp;m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼&nbsp;m.
+from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the <a name = "lake_pavin" id =
+"lake_pavin"><b>Lac-de-Pavin</b></a>, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the
+crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft.
+long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting
+at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are
+let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises
+the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the
+Creux-de-Sancy, a&nbsp;circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of
+which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
+Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. <i>Inns:</i>
+Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
+neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
+contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one
+having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the
+town is
+<span class = "pagenum">382</span>
+<a name = "page382" id = "page382"> </a>
+<!-- png 443 -->
+the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted
+into shops and dwellings.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Murols.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to <a name = "murols" id =
+"murols"><b>Murols</b></a>, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway
+between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful
+views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor,
+and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (<i>Inn:</i> Nierat, pop.
+700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have
+escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt,
+3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important
+castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of
+Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful
+and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the
+Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais,
+and Tartaret. 13&nbsp;m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the
+left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the
+sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A&nbsp;little
+farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop.
+1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is
+11&nbsp;m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and
+Murols the entire distance is 32&nbsp;m.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.</span></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+A very pleasant promenade is to the <a name = "salon_capucin" id =
+"salon_capucin"><b>Salon du Capucin</b></a>, recommended as well as the
+Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If
+on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee
+cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which
+enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a&nbsp;stone
+to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du
+Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At
+last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where
+several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to
+the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is
+quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to
+the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about
+2&nbsp;m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its
+name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille
+du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+To go to the <a name = "vallee_denfer" id = "vallee_denfer"><b>Vallée
+d’Enfer</b></a> return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which
+leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾&nbsp;m. long, near the top
+of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where
+those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have
+to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge
+between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the
+valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore,
+4¾&nbsp;m.&nbsp;N.</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">383</span>
+<a name = "page383" id = "page383"> </a>
+<!-- png 444 -->
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourboule. Hotels.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bourboule" id = "bourboule">
+BOURBOULE.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
+the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
+ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the
+excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
+Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
+especial virtue&mdash;the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
+milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at
+Mont-Dore.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+<a name = "bourboule_hotels" id =
+"bourboule_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>&mdash;Around the principal
+establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand
+Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H.&nbsp;de
+¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne,
+by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc;
+Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste;
+Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to
+let.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class
+prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the
+room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge
+is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with
+wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1&nbsp;fr. extra. Service, ½ to
+1&nbsp;fr. per day. Candles, 3&nbsp;frs. at end of season. From the 25th
+of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of
+September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in
+mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon
+beforehand it will be much the same.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourboule_baths" id =
+"bourboule_baths">
+<span class = "headnote">Bourboule: Baths. Charges.</span></a></p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses,
+of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes,
+a&nbsp;very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of
+the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage.
+Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy
+and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A&nbsp;part of
+the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
+31st August, 3&nbsp;frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st
+to the 30th September, 2½ frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the
+Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
+in the indigent department of Mabru 5&nbsp;frs.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
+or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour,
+<span class = "pagenum">384</span>
+<a name = "page384" id = "page384"> </a>
+<!-- png 445 -->
+including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that
+time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourboule: Springs.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs" id =
+"bourboule_springs">
+The Springs.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
+right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
+in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and
+Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse.
+They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite,
+and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water
+pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a&nbsp;temperature of 140°
+F.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
+discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the
+springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°,
+mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs
+Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as
+they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with
+wine at dinner.</p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs_effects" id =
+"bourboule_springs_effects">
+Their Constituents and Effects.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a
+gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one
+half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of
+sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
+arseniate of soda (see <a href = "#mont_dore_water">p.&nbsp;379</a>).
+Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their
+composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them
+applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases
+of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all
+scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges
+from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce
+great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin
+disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures,
+and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous
+constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form
+of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and
+chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule
+waters.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Bourboule: Excursions.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_excursions" id =
+"bourboule_excursions">
+Bourboule Excursions.</a></h5>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it
+is 2¼&nbsp;m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½&nbsp;m. from the
+Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10&nbsp;m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½&nbsp;m.
+from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓&nbsp;m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh,
+4½&nbsp;m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾&nbsp;m. from the summit
+of the Puy Gros, 2½&nbsp;m. from the petrifying spring, 3½&nbsp;m. from
+the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘&nbsp;m. from Latour. The most of
+these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">385</span>
+<a name = "page385" id = "page385"> </a>
+<!-- png 446 -->
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to
+Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of
+basaltic columns, 2¼&nbsp;m. S. by a path following the right or east
+bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼&nbsp;m. beyond, the Vendeix path
+joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the
+forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction,
+in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About
+1¼&nbsp;m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where
+a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade
+Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½&nbsp;m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way,
+but only 2½&nbsp;m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
+into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin.
+A&nbsp;little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
+cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
+2¼&nbsp;m. from Bourboule.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½&nbsp;m. from Bourboule
+and 4&nbsp;m. from Mont-Dore, a&nbsp;road extends 2½&nbsp;m. N. to the
+summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.</p>
+
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Saint-Nectaire.</span></p>
+
+<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "mont_dore_to_issoire" id =
+"mont_dore_to_issoire">
+Mont-Dore to Issoire,</a></h5>
+
+<p>31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾&nbsp;m.
+Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½&nbsp;m.
+E.&nbsp;The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the
+Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of
+Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge,
+arrives at <a name = "st_nectaire" id =
+"st_nectaire"><b>Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas</b></a>, with a large bathing
+establishment. <i>Hotels:</i> Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.</p>
+
+<p>N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a
+large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline,
+ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and
+are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa,
+and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic
+acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.</p>
+
+<p class = "sidetrip">
+The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of
+Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen,
+of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant
+the cascade of the Granges. 8¾&nbsp;m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
+Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
+Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended;
+whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in
+the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves,
+3&nbsp;m. from <a href = "#issoire">Issoire</a> (p.&nbsp;372).</p>
+
+
+<span class = "pagenum">386</span>
+<a name = "page386" id = "page386"> </a>
+<!-- png 447 -->
+
+<h4 class = "itinerary">
+Continuation of Route&mdash;Clermont to Brive.</h4>
+
+<p>14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and
+68&nbsp;m. N.E. from Brive, is <a name = "eyguirande" id =
+"eyguirande"><b>Eyguirande</b></a>, pop. 1150. Junction here with
+loop-line to Largnac, 30&nbsp;m. S.&nbsp;Coach daily to Murat 41&nbsp;m.
+S., passing Mauriac 12&nbsp;m. S. (see Black’s <i>South France</i>, West
+Half).</p>
+
+<p>31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is <a name=
+"meymac"><b>Meymac</b></a>, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church,
+tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with
+loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½&nbsp;m. N., and close to Limoges. (See
+<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p>
+
+<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote">
+Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.</span></p>
+
+<p>16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is <a name =
+"tulle" id = "tulle"><b>Tulle</b></a>, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze.
+<i>Hotels:</i> Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens
+are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.</p>
+
+<p>122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156&nbsp;m. N. from
+Toulouse, and 45&nbsp;m. E. from Perigueux, is <a name =
+"brive_la_gaillarde" id =
+"brive_la_gaillarde"><b>Brive-la-Gaillarde</b></a>, pop. 12,000, on the
+Corrèze. <i>Hotels:</i> Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s <i>South
+France</i>, West Half).</p>
+
+
+</div> <!-- end div itinerary -->
+
+<hr class = "mid">
+
+<span class = "pagenum">387</span>
+<a name = "page387" id = "page387"> </a>
+<!-- png 448 -->
+
+<h3><a name = "index" id = "index">
+INDEX.</a></h3>
+
+<div class = "mynote">
+<p>When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary
+reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are
+visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has
+been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings,
+but the links will still work.</p>
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html">Pages 1&ndash;106</a>
+(paris.html: <b>boldface</b>)<br>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Pages 107&ndash;280</a>
+(riviera.html: <i>italicized</i>)<br>
+Pages 281-end (turin.html, the current file: unmarked)</p>
+
+<p>Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the
+top of the page. Page numbers in <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> indicate columns
+in the printed book; the location of the page number&mdash;left or right
+margin&mdash;depends on columns in the e-text.</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<a href = "#index_A">A&ndash;Ap</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_A2">Ar&ndash;Av</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_B">B&ndash;Be</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_B2">Bi&ndash;Br</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_C">C&ndash;Ce</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_C2">Ch&ndash;Cl</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_C3">Co&ndash;Cr</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_D">D</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_E">E</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_F">F&ndash;Flavigny</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_F2">Florence&nbsp;A-N</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_F3">Florence&nbsp;O-V</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_F4">Fo&ndash;Fr</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_G">G&ndash;Ge</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_G2">Gi&ndash;Gu</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_H">H</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_I">I</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_J">J</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_L">La</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_L2">Le&ndash;Lu</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_L3">Lyons</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_M">Ma</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_M2">Me&ndash;Mons</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_M3">Mont&ndash;Mu</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_N">N&ndash;Ne</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_N2">Nice</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_N3">Nicholas&ndash;Ny</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_O">O</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_P">P&ndash;Pi</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_P2">Po&ndash;Pu</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_Q">Q</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_R">R</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_S">S&ndash;St.&nbsp;N</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_S2">St.&nbsp;P&ndash;San</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_S3">Saou-Su</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_T">T&ndash;Turbie</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_T2">Turin</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_U">U</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_V">V&ndash;Ve</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_V2">Vi&ndash;Vo</a> &nbsp;
+<a href = "#index_W">W</a> &nbsp;
+</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<table class = "index">
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_A" id = "index_A" href = "#index">A&ndash;Ap</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#abries"><span class = "smallcaps">Abries</span>
+344</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Acqui 184</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#agay">Agay 147</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#aiguebelle">Aiguebelle 289</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#aigueperse">Aigueperse 368</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes
+73</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#aiguilles">Aiguilles 344</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#aime">Aime 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence 78</a>, <a href =
+"#page338">338</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">olive oil 79</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"> to Geneva by Annecy 286</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Alacoque, M. M.
+27</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#alais">Alais 375</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#alan">Alan 49</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alassio">Alassio
+208</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albenga">Albenga
+208</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#albertville">Albertville 320</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page320"> to
+Annecy 320</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albissola">Albissóla
+210</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alesia 19</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alessandria">Alessandria
+280</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alise-St. Reine
+19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Allègre 89</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page336">Allevard-les-Bains 336</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Allos 339</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia
+279</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Alzon 105</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#amberieu">Amberieux 281</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ambert">Ambert 91</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page348">Amplepuis 348</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ampuis">Ampuis 81</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page3">Amyot, Jacques 3</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ancy_le_franc">Ancy-le-Franc
+18</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#annecy">Annecy 286</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#annonay">Annonay 81</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#antibes">Antibes 169</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">154</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#antraigues">Antraigues
+94</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Apricale
+201</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">Aps 97</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#apt">Apt 66</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">preserves 66</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_A2" id = "index_A2" href =
+"#index">Ar&ndash;Av</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Aramon 99</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#arenzano">Arenzano
+211</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ardeche">Ardèche sketch of
+45</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches to 45</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#map46"> map of 46</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">387b</span>
+<a name = "page387b" id = "page387b"> </a>
+<!-- png 448 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#ardes">Ardes 373</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#arfeuilles">Arfeuilles 346</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arlanc">Arlanc 90</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">Arles 68</a>, <a href =
+"#page376">376</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_fontvieille">to
+Fontvieille 71</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_bouc">to Port Bouc
+72</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_st_louis">to Port
+St. Louis 72</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">to St. Gilles
+72</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">Arma 207</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page86">Arsac 86</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page282">Artemart 282</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#arvant">Arvant 373</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aspres">Aspres 48</a>, <a href
+= "#page345">345</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Astet 89</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#asti">Asti 280</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#aubagne">Aubagne
+122</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas">Aubenas 93</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Aups 145</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#auribeau">Auribeau
+156</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun 24</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#auxerre">Auxerre 14</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Avallon 16</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#avenza">Avenza 222</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon">Avignon 58</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_benezet">Benezet’s bridge
+63</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page62"> tomb 62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page58">Hotels 58</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_hotel_de_ville">Hôtel de
+Ville 61</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_j_s_mill">J. S. Mill’s
+tomb 63</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">Laura’s tomb 62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_calvet">Musée Calvet
+61</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_requien">Museum of
+Natural History 62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_cathedral">Notre Dame des
+Doms 60</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_palace">Popes’ palace
+58</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_rocher">Rocher des Doms
+60</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_agricol">St. Agricol
+61</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_dedier">St. <ins class
+= "correction" title = "spelled ‘Dedier’ in body text">Didier</ins>
+62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_joseph">St. Joseph
+62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas
+63</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">St. Pierre 62</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_manosque">to Manosque
+by Cavaillon 66</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_nimes">to Nîmes
+64</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_vaucluse">to Vaucluse
+64</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_villeneuve">to
+Villeneuve 63</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_B" id = "index_B" href = "#index">B&ndash;Be</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">387c</span>
+<a name = "page387c" id = "page387c"> </a>
+<!-- png 448 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#bagnols_les_bains"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Bagnoles-les-Bains</span> 375</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Bagnoles-sur-Ceze
+99</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Bains 91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Balaruc 76</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Bandols
+123</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#banges">Banges 285</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Bar 163</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo">to Cuneo 341</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#st_paul">to St. Paul 341</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#bardonnecchia"><ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Bardonnechia’">Bardonnecchia</ins> 291</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols">Barjols 143</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols_2">167</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barreme">Barrème
+166</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Baths&mdash;Acqui
+184</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#aix_les_bains">
+Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#aix_en_provence"> Aix-en-Provence 78</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page336">
+Allevard 336</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#bagnols_les_bains"> Bagnols 375</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page76"> Balaruc 76</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#bourboule_baths"> Bourboule 383</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#bourbon_lancy">
+Bourbon-Lancy 358</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#bourbon_larchambault"> Bourbon l’Archambault 357</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page284">
+Challes 284</a>, <a href = "#page288">288</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#chateauneuf">
+Châteauneuf 369</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page369">
+Châtelguyon 369</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#chateldon">
+Chateldon 367</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#cusset"> Cusset
+365</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page75"> Foncaude 75</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#greoulx"> Gréoulx 168</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page327"> La
+Motte 327</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#lucca_baths"> Lucca 230</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page284">
+Marlioz 284</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#mont_dore">
+Mont-Dore 378</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#neyrac_les_bains"> Neyrac 94</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#pougues_les_eaux"> Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#royat"> Royat
+376</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page348"> Sail
+348</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page348"> St.
+Alban 348</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#st_galmier">
+St. Galmier 348</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#san_giuliano"> St. Giuliano 227</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page354"> St.
+Honoré 354</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#st_mart"> St.
+Mart 377</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#st_nectaire">
+St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page336">
+Uriage 336</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#valdieri"> Valdieri 181, 182</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page103"> Vals 103</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#vichy"> Vichy
+359</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page183"> Vinadio 183</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">388</span>
+<a name = "page388" id = "page388"> </a>
+<!-- png 449 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Beage, Le 84</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Beaucaire 67</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Beauchastel 82</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Beaufort 46</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Beaujolais 29</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#beaulieu">Beaulieu
+184</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#beaune">Beaune 23</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">Beaurières 48</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Beausset
+123</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#page331">Bec-de-l’Homme 331</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens_becket">Becket, Thomas à
+11</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vez_becket">15</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">17</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bedoin">Bedoin 56</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#belgentier">Belgentier
+129</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page321">Bellentre 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#belleville">Belleville
+29</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Belvedère
+181</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_berarde">Berarde 330</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page56">Berlingots 56</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page353">Bernadette Soubirous 353</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lake_berre">Berre 77</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bersezio">Bersezio 342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_bessee">Bessée 344</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux">
+to Mt. Pelvoux 344</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page381">Besse-en-Chandesse 381</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">Beza, T. 15</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_B2" id = "index_B2" href =
+"#index">Bi&ndash;Br</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#billom">Billom 350</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#blaizy_bas">Blaizy-Bas
+20</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bobbio">Bobbio 306</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Bogliasco
+219</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Boileau 2</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Bollène 50</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#bologna">Bologna 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Accademia 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_ai_servi">Ai Servi (church) 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_annunziata">Annunziata 320</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page318">Biblioteca Communale 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna">Bolognese school 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna">Cabs 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_certosa">Certosa 320</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_university">Galvani 316</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_guido">Guido’s grave 319</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#madonna_san_luca">Madonna di S. Luca 320</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page316">Mezzofanti 316</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_pal_mercanzia">Pal. Mercanzia 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_pal_zampieri">Pal. Zampieri 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Picture gallery 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_bartolommeo">S. Bartolommeo 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_domenico">S. Domenico 319</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_giacomo">S. G. Maggiore 316</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_petronio">S. Petronio 317</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_pietro">S. Pietro 319</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_san_stefano">S. Stefano 318</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page319">S. Vitale 319</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Asinelli 317</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Garisenda 317</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#bologna_university">University 316</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Bondonneau 49</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">388b</span>
+<a name = "page388b" id = "page388b"> </a>
+<!-- png 449 -->
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bordighera">Bordighera
+200</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bormes">Bormes 142</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#borne">Borne 89</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon_bossuet">Bossuet, J. B.
+22</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse 113</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page147">Boulerie
+147</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy baths 358</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault baths
+357</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#bourboule">Bourboule 383</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux 47</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Bourg-Argental
+81</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg-d’Oisans 329</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page329"> to
+Lac Blanc 329</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page329"> to
+the Ecrin group 329</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bourgoin">Bourgoin 322</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourg_st_andeol">Bourg-St.
+Andeol 97</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">Bourg-St. Maurice 321</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_breuil">Breuil, Le 373</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#briancon">Briançon 332</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"> to Mt. Pelvoux 333</a>, <a href =
+"#page345">345</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#briancon_to_oulx"> to Oulx 333</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#briare">Briare 352</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#brignoles">Brignoles
+142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Brillane 339</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#brioude">Brioude 374</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#brive_la_gaillarde">Brive 386</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page287">Brogny 287</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy 2</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#buffon">Buffon, Comte de
+18</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Burgundy wines 22</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">23</a>, <a class = "paris"
+href = "paris.html#page24">24</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#busalla">Busalla
+279</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page291">Bussoleno 291</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_C" id = "index_C" href = "#index">C&ndash;Ce</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cagnes"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Cagnes</span> 165</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#callian">Callian
+162</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli
+278</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page70">Camargue 70</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Campo-Rosso
+201</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes">Cannes 149</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page149">Agents 149</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Adalbert 151</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page159">159</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cap_antibes">Antibes
+154</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Auribeau 156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Banks 151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_brougham">Brougham,
+Lord 151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page155">155</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_cabs">Cabs 151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Californie
+152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_canal">Canal 162</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannet">Cannet 154</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castelaras">Castelaras
+156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Cemetery 152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_churches">Churches
+151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Clausonne 154</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_climate">Climate
+151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_corniche">Corniche
+152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_croisette">Croisette, La
+154</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">388c</span>
+<a name = "page388c" id = "page388c"> </a>
+<!-- png 449 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#croix_des_gardes">Croix des
+Gardes 155</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_drives">Drives
+152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins>
+155</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Hesperide 154</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_hotels">Hotels and
+Pensions 149</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iron_mask">Iron Mask
+157</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">Lerins Islands
+156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mont Vinaigre
+156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mouans-Sartoux
+156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mougins">Mougins 156</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Cannes&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Napoule 154</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">N.&nbsp;D.
+d’Esperance 151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Observatories
+151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegomas">Pegomas 156</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris_pottery">Pottery
+153</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">St. Anne 151</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page155">St. Cassien
+155</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat
+158</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page157">St. Marguerite
+157</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Théoule 155</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris
+153</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules
+142</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#carpentras">Carpentras
+54</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Carqueyranne
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Negre
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Paradis
+141</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carrara">Carrara
+222</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_casset">Casset, Le 332</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Cassini, G. D.
+201</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellane">Castellane
+165</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page206">Castellaro
+206</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Cavaillon 66</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Cayres 88</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Celles-les-Bains
+83</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Cercy-la-Tour 25</a>,
+<a href = "#page354">354</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page184">Certosa
+184</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Cervo 208</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#cesanne">Cesanne 333</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cette">Cette 75</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page76"> to Balaruc 76</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_C2" id = "index_C2" href =
+"#index">Ch&ndash;Cl</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chablis">Chablis 14</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chabons">Chabons 323</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chagny">Chagny 24</a>, <a href
+= "#page355">355</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu
+89</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#challes">Challes 284</a>, <a href =
+"#page288">288</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#chalon_sur_saone">Chalon-sur-Saône 26</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Chambertin
+23</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chambery">Chambery 287</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page380">Chambon 380</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page385">Champeix 385</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Charenton 2</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Charmes 82</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page288">Charmettes, Les 288</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chateauneuf">Châteauneuf (Riom) 369</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page343">Châteauroux 343</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_chatelard">Châtelard, Le 285</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chateldon">Chateldon 367</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page369">Châtelguyon 369</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Châtillon 47</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">389</span>
+<a name = "page389" id = "page389"> </a>
+<!-- png 450 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#page282">Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page351">Châtillon-sur-Loing 351</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page352">Châtillon-sur-Loire 352</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Chavanay 81</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_cheilard">Cheilard
+83</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page341">Chenal 341</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#chiavari">Chiavari
+220</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chiomonte">Chiomonte 291</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chorges">Chorges 342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page321">Cirque-d’Annibal 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Citeaux abbey
+23</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#claix">Claix 328</a>, <a href = "#page345">345</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#clamecy">Clamecy 354</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#clamecy_2">15</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#clelles">Clelles 345</a></p>
+
+
+<p><a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand 369</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page371">Academie 371</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#clermont_botanic">Botanic gardens 371</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#clermont_cathedral">Cathedral 370</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page370">Coaches 370</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Hotels 369</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#clermont_notre_dame">Notre Dame 371</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page370">Pascal’s house 370</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page371">Peter the Hermit 371</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page370">Preserved fruits 370</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy de Dome 372</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#romagnat">Romagnat 372</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#clermont_to_brive">to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and
+Bourboule 376</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#lyons_to_clermont">to Lyons by St. Etienne 349</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cluny">Cluny 27</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_C3" id = "index_C3" href =
+"#index">Co&ndash;Cr</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cogoleto">Cogoleto
+210</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Cogolin
+145</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#col_abries">Col Abriés 307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page183"> Braus 183</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page183"> Brouis 183</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page48"> Cabres 48</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page181"> Cerise 181</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page89"> Chavade 89</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#col_croix">
+Croix 306</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#col_finestra"> Finestra 181</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page181"> Fremamorta 181</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#col_lautaret">
+Lautaret 331</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page341">
+Longet 341</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page342">
+Maddalena 342</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page339"> Maure
+339</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page181"> Moulières 181</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page330">
+Muselle 330</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page342"> Mulo
+342</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page51"> Ribeyret 51</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#col_sestrieres"> Sestrières 307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page183"> Tenda 183</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#col_traversette"> Traversette 308</a>, <a href =
+"#page344">344</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_colla">Colla, La
+202</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#colmars">Colmars 339</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#collobrieres">Collobrières
+130</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#columbus">Columbus
+211</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page342">Condamine-Châtelard 342</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_condamine">Condamine, La
+189</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">389b</span>
+<a name = "page389b" id = "page389b"> </a>
+<!-- png 450 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Condrieu 81</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cornigliano">Cornigliano
+212</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#corps">Corps 334</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#parma_correggio">Correggio 313</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page230">Corsena
+230</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#cosne">Cosne 352</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Cote d’Or 22</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#coupe_daizac">Coupe-d’Aizac
+94</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#courmayeur">Courmayeur 322</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Courpière 91</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#courty">Courty 350</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Craponne 89</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page14">Cravant 14</a>, <a href
+= "#page355">355</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#crest">Crest 46</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#crest_to_aspres"> to Aspres 47</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#crissolo">Crissolo 308</a>, <a href =
+"#page344">344</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_croisiere">Croisière, La
+50</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Croix Blanche
+105</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#cruseilles">Cruseilles 287</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Cruzy-le-Chatel
+18</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuers">Cuers 130</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p>
+<p><a href = "main.html#food">Culinary terms xxiii</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#culoz">Culoz 282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuneo">Cuneo 182</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>, <a href =
+"#page308">308</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"> to Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page182"> to Nice 182</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#cusset">Cusset 365</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_D" id = "index_D" href = "#index">D</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darcey"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Darcey</span> 19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darsac">Darsac 89</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page89"> to Chaise-Dieu 89</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page331">Dauphin, Le 331</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Decize 25</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page342">Demonte 342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page288">Dent de Nivolet 288</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page282">Dent-du-Chat 282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Diano Marina
+208</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die 47</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dieulefit">Dieulefit 47</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">Digne 166</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#digoin">Digoin 358</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon">Dijon 20</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_doctors">Doctors’
+fees 110</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Dolce-Acqua
+201</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#domene">Domène 336</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#dompierre_sur_bebre">Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#donzere">Donzère 50</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page287">Doussard 287</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#draguignan">Draguignan
+145</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page287">Duingt 287</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#duke_berwick">Duke of Berwick 356</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Duranus
+180</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#durtol">Durtol 377</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_E" id = "index_E" href = "#index">E</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">Eaux Chaudes
+166</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#embrun">Embrun 343</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page330">Enchastraye 330</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Entraque
+181</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Epinac 24</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page165">Escragnolles
+165</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">389c</span>
+<a name = "page389c" id = "page389c"> </a>
+<!-- png 450 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#espaly">Espaly 89</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lestaque">Estaque, L’
+80</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins> 156</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page146">146</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#etang">Etang 25</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page286">Eugene Sué 286</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#eyguirande">Eyguirande 386</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#eze">Eze 186</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_F" id = "index_F" href = "#index">F</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Fayence
+145</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#fenestrelle">Fenestrelle 307</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#feurs">Feurs 346</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#fiesole">Fiesole
+276</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#finalmarina">Finalmarina
+209</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fix_st_geneys">Fix-St. Geneys
+91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#flavigny">Flavigny 19</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_F2" id = "index_F2" href = "#index">Florence
+(A-N)</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence">Florence</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page233">233</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_fine_arts">Academy of
+Fine Arts</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page271">271</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">Alkermes 268</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Amerigo Vespucci
+275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page248">Arcetri 248</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_la_badia">Badia,
+La</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">263</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_baptistery">Baptistery</a> <a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page256">256</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">Bargello</a> <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Bello
+Sguardo</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page250">250</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Bibbiena 279</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_laurentiana">Bibliotheca Laurentiana</a> <a class
+= "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page266">266</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_national_library"> Nazionale 236</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bigallo">Bigallo,
+Il</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page257">257</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_boboli">Boboli
+Gardens</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page246">246</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_brancacci">Brancacci
+chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#sta_maria_brunelleschi">Brunelleschi’s crucifix</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">268</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cabs">Cab tariff</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">278</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_campanile">Campanile</a> <a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page255">255</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page276">Cascine 276</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Cathedral</a> <a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_certosa">Certosa</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page250">250</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_croce_dante">Dante</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page258">258</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page272">David, by Michael
+Angelo 272</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Donatello’s crucifix
+260</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Duomo</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Florence&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna">Galileo 247</a>, <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">260</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Galleria
+Uffizi</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page237">237</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Gallery of
+mosaics</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hints">Guide
+books</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page255">Hawkwood, John
+255</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hospital">Hospital
+St. Giovanni</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page275">275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hotels">Hotels and
+apartments 233</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">House of Amerigo
+Vespucci 275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_dante_house"> of Dante 274</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_galileo_house"> of Galileo 248</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">390</span>
+<a name = "page390" id = "page390"> </a>
+<!-- png 451 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page247"> of Macchiavelli 247</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_michelangelo_house"> of Michael Angelo
+263</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#sta_croce_ketterick">Ketterick, John</a> <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">259</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_loggia_orcagna">Loggia Orcagna 235</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">Luca della Robbia
+ware 263</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">Masaccio 252</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Money-changers
+234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte
+Oliveto</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page251">251</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mortuary">Mortuary
+chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page255">255</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Mosaic
+manufacture</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_etruscan">Museum of
+Etruscan Antiquities</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page267">267</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_natural_history"> Nat. Hist. 247</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">National Museum</a> <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_niobe">Niobe
+242</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_F3" id = "index_F3" href = "#index">Florence
+(O-V)</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p>Florence&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Ognissanti
+275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">Or St.
+Michele 257</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_palaces">Palaces
+273</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pal_corsini">Palazzo
+Corsini 275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_pal_riccardi"> Riccardi 275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_pal_strozzi"> Strozzi 275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_pal_torrigiani"> Torrigiani 276</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_pal_vecchio"> Vecchio 274</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_park">Park
+276</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Pazzi chapel
+260</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">Perazzi chapel
+259</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">Piazza S.
+Annunziata 269</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_piazza_sta_croce"> S. Croce 258</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_piazza_signoria"> Signoria 235</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">Piazzale Michelangiolo
+249</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_marco_gallery">Picture
+gallery of S. Marco 270</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pitti_gallery">Pitti
+gallery 243</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_pal_pitti"> palace 246</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pontassieve
+278</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_galileo_house">Porta
+Romana 248</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page236">Post office
+236</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Prefettura della
+Provincia 275</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Protestant churches
+234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page239">Raphael 239</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">Refectory of S. Croce
+261</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Restaurants
+234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_maria_rucellai">Rucellai
+chapel 268</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Florence&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_sagrestia_nuova">Sagrestia Nuova 265</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">S.
+Annunziata 268</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_sta_croce">S. Croce
+258</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_giovannino">S.
+Giovannino 264</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_lorenzo">S.
+Lorenzo 264</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_marco">S. Marco
+270</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_del_carmine">S. Maria
+del Carmine 252</a></p>
+<span class = "pagenum">390b</span>
+<a name = "page390b" id = "page390b"> </a>
+<!-- png 451 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">S. Maria
+del <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Fiori’">Fiore</ins>
+252</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_sta_maria_novella"> Novella 267</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">S.
+Michele 257</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_miniato">S.
+Miniato 249</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_santo_spirito">S.
+Spirito 251</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page269">Sarto, Andrea del
+269</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page270">Savonarola
+270</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Sights 234</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_spezeria">Spezeria
+268</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page277">Straw-plaiting
+277</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_torre_gallo">Torre
+del Gallo 248</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_tribuna">Tribuna
+238</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna"> di Galileo 247</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Uffizi
+gallery 237</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#florence_to_vallombrosa">Vallombrosa 278</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page238">Venus de Medici
+238</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Views
+250</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_F4" id = "index_F4" href =
+"#index">Fo&ndash;Fr</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Foncaude baths
+75</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau
+3</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Fontana
+183</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Fontenay abbey
+19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Forcalqueiret
+129</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fos">Fos 76</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#fourchambault">Fourchambault 353</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page331">Freaux, Les 331</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#frejus">Frejus 146</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_freney">Freney, Le 331</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#frontignan">Frontignan
+75</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">salt 75</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_G" id = "index_G" href = "#index">G&ndash;Ge</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Gallinaria
+208</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#gannat">Gannat 368</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#gap">Gap 340</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#gap"> to
+Barcelonnette 340</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#gap_to_grenoble"> to Grenoble 342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page374">Garabit, Pont de 374</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gardanne">Gardanne 142</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a href =
+"#page338">338</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#gardanne_to_carnoules"> to Carnoules 142</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa">Genoa 212</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Accademia 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Acquasola 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_albergo_poveri">Albergo
+dei Poveri 218</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cabs">Cabs 213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cafes">Cafés 213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_campo_santo">Campo-Santo
+218</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cathedral">Cathedral
+217</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Corsos 213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">English church
+212</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Hotels 212</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Money-changers
+213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Palazzo Adorno
+216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page215"> Balbi 215</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_pal_doria"> Doria 214</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> <span class =
+"dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page216"> (Giorgio) 216</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Genoa&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_pal_ducal">Palazzo Ducal
+217</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">390c</span>
+<a name = "page390c" id = "page390c"> </a>
+<!-- png 451 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_pal_durazzo"> Durazzo 215</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_municipio"> Municipicio 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_pal_rosso"> Rosso 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_pal_serra"> Serra 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#genoa_pal_spinola"> Spinola 216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Post office
+216</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page214">Royal Palace
+214</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_ambrogio">S.
+Ambrogio 217</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_annunziata">S.
+Annunziata 215</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_sta_maria">S. Maria in
+Carignano 218</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_matteo">S. Matteo
+217</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_siro">S. Siro
+215</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Shops 212</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_steamers">Steamers</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Telegraph office
+213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Valdensian church
+212</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Via Circonvallazione
+213</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_via_milano">Via Milano
+214</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#gerbier_de_joncs">Gerbier-de-Joncs 84</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Gevrey
+23</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_G2" id = "index_G2" href =
+"#index">Gi&ndash;Gu</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giandola">Giandola
+183</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#gien">Gien 351</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens">Giens 140</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_chateau">Le Chateau
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens_saltworks">Salt works
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Semaphore 141</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#gieres">Gières 336</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#gilly">Gilly 358</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#givors_canal">Givors-Canal
+81</a>, <a href = "#page349">349</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page337">Gleyzin glacier 337</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#golf_jouan">Golf Jouan
+169</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin 336</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page131">Gonfaron
+131</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Gourdon
+163</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page324">Grand Som 324</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#grande_chartreuse">Grande-Chartreuse 323</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_grande_combe">Grande Combe 375</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grasse">Grasse 160</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_grave">Grave, La 331</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble 324</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_bastile">Bastile 325</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_bayard">Bayard 325</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_coaches">Coaches 325</a>, <a href =
+"#page327">327</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_gloves">Gloves 327</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble">Hotels 324</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_library">Library 326</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_gallery">Picture gallery 326</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_st_andre">St. André 325</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page327">St. Laurent 327</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page341">to Barcelonnette 341</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon">to Briançon 328</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#grenoble_to_corps">to Corps 333</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#gap_to_grenoble">to Gap 342</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">391</span>
+<a name = "page391" id = "page391"> </a>
+<!-- png 452 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page327">to La Motte-les-Bains 327</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page327">to Sassenage 327</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#greoulx">Gréoulx
+167</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#grignan">Grignan 49</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">Grimaud
+144</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page354">Guerigny 354</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#guillestre">Guillestre 344</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_H" id = "index_H" href = "#index">H</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page284"><span class = "smallcaps">Hautecombe
+Abbey</span> 284</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Hermitage wine
+43</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#hospice">Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres">Hyères 133</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Banks 133</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#hyeres_butterflies">Butterflies</a> <a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cabs">Cabs 134</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#hyeres_caterpillar">Caterpillars</a> <a class = "riviera"
+href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Charles of Anjou
+136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">Château, Le
+136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_climate">Climate
+140</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page134">Clubs 134</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cork">Cork trees</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_costebelle">Costebelle
+136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_drives">Drives
+134</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">English Pharmacy
+133</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Episcopal Chapel
+133</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mt_fenouillet">Fenouillet,
+Mont 137</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Game 138</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Hermitage 136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_hotels">Hotels
+133</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Hyères&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Jardin
+d’Acclimatation 136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page140">La Plage 140</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map129">Map 129</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massillon">Massillon
+135</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Napoleon I.
+136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_oiseaux">Oiseaux Monts
+<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘128’">138</ins></a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive trees
+138</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page108">Palm sticks
+108</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Palms 136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Paradis Mont
+141</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">Pauline, La
+142</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_pipes">Pipes
+139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Potence 139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Productions
+139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_louis">St. Louis</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">136</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_paul">St. Paul</a>
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page135">135</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_coaches">Stage
+coaches</a> <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page134">134</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Temple Protestant
+133</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Town water
+139</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trou_fees">Trou des Fées
+138</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">View from Le
+Château 137</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_I" id = "index_I" href = "#index">I</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Iles de Lerins</span> 157</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_dor">Iles d’Or
+131</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_baths">Il Serraglio
+230</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">391b</span>
+<a name = "page391b" id = "page391b"> </a>
+<!-- png 452 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#issoire">Issoire 372</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page385">coach to St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#isola_buona">Isola Buona
+201</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#istres">Istres 76</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#map291">Italian railway terms and time-tables 291</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">200</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_J" id = "index_J" href = "#index">J</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#jaujac"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Jaujac</span> 95</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#jausiers">Jausiers 342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Javie 339</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret_jean_sans">Jean-Sans-Peur
+10</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page20">20</a>, <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#page22">22</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#joigny">Joigny 14</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">Jouques 79</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Joyeuse 96</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_L" id = "index_L" href = "#index">La</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#la_balme"><span class = "smallcaps">La Balme</span>
+282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">La Barben 79</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page375">La Bastide 375</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">La Begude 93</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">La Bollene
+181</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page306">La Chalp 306</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_chambre">La Chambre 289</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_charite">La Charité 352</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_ciotat">La Ciotat
+122</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_crau">La Crau
+130</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">La Garde 128</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page130">130</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">La Garde
+Fraiseinet 144</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague
+141</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page344">La Monta 344</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">La Mothe 94</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_palisse">La Palisse 346</a>, <a href =
+"#page368">368</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">La Pauline
+142</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche 14</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page334">La Salle 334</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_salette">La Salette 334</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">La Sauvetat 88</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_seyne">La Seyne
+123</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_valette">La Valette
+128</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">La Voulte 82</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lachamp_raphael">Lachamp-Raphael 84</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey 333</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#lagnieu">Lagnieu 282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Laigueglia
+208</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Lake Allos 339</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page286">
+Annecy 286</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page282">
+Bourget 282</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page323">
+Paladru 323</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#lake_pavin">
+Pavin 381</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page76"> Thau 76</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Lamartine 27</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc 80</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#langeac">Langeac 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#langeac_2">91</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#langogne">Langogne 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page95">95</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne"> to Le Puy 88</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#lans_le_bourg">Lans-le-Bourg 290</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lantosque">Lantosque
+180</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille 377</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to
+Mont-Dore, 377</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to
+Bourboule, 377</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page342">Larche 342</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">391c</span>
+<a name = "page391c" id = "page391c"> </a>
+<!-- png 452 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#largentiere">Largentière
+96</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page14"> to Les Laumes 14</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#larzac">Larzac 106</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun 99</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page323">Laurent-du-Pont 323</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page331">Lauzet 331</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_lauzet">Lauzet, Le 341</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page143">Lavandou
+143</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_L2" id = "index_L2" href =
+"#index">Le&ndash;Lu</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page57">Le Barroux 57</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le Beage 84</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_bouchet">Le Bouchet
+88</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_buis">Le Buis 57</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_creusot">Le Creusot
+25</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Le Monastier
+85</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Le Pal 96</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Le Peage de Roussillon
+43</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Le Pouzin 92</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy">Le Puy 86</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Le Teil 93</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Le Trayas
+149</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#leghorn">Leghorn
+226</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lemons">Lemons 191</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page194">194</a>, <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Lerici 221</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_arcs">Les Arcs
+145</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_baux">Les Baux 67</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page85">Les Etables 85</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page330">Les Etages 330</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes
+19</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#les_marches_1">Les Marches 289</a>, <a href =
+"#les_marches_2">338</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Les Piles 51</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">Les Saintes Maries
+72</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_salins">Les Salins
+141</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#leschaux">Leschaux 287</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levant">Levant, Ile du
+132</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levens">Levens 180</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#limone">Limone 183</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle 64</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page329">Livet 329</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron 46</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page209">Loano 209</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lorgues">Lorgues
+145</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page356">Lord Clarendon 356</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#lovagny">Lovagny 286</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_luc">Luc 144</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca">Lucca 227</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page227">Cabs 227</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_cathedral">Cathedral
+228</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_hotels">Hotels
+227</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_gallery">Picture gallery
+228</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_san_frediano">S.
+Frediano 229</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page229">S. Michele
+229</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#luc_en_diois">Luc-en-Diois
+48</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lunel">Lunel 72</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">wine 73</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#lurs">Lurs 339</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page305">Luserna 305</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Luzy 25</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_L3" id = "index_L3" href = "#index">Lyons</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">392</span>
+<a name = "page392" id = "page392"> </a>
+<!-- png 453 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">Lyons 29</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page33">Antiquaille Hospital
+33</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page34">Aqueduct 34</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Boats, Penny
+31</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_bourse">Bourse 38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cabs">Cabs 30</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cathedral">Cathedral
+34</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cheese">Cheese 42</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_soies">Condition des Soies
+37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Distances 29</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">First sewing-machine
+38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Flourvière 32</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_origin">History 41</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Hospice 39</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotel_ville">Hôtel de Ville
+37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_hospital"> Dieu 39</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotels">Hotels 29</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page42">Ile Barbe 42</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">Jacquard’s loom 38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_library">Libraries 37,
+38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_minerals">Minerals
+37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page41">Mont Ceindre 41</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_mont_dor"> d’Or 42</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_archeologique">Musée
+Archéologique 36</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page40"> Guimet 40</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_lapidaire"> Lapidaire 35</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_silk_museum"> of Silk 38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_notre_dame">Notre Dame
+33</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Lyons&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay 33</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">Palais de Justice
+35</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#lyons_beaux_arts"> des Beaux Arts 35</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_park">Park 40</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_gallery">Picture gallery
+36</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_terreaux">Place des Terreaux
+37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_post">Post office 30</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">Préfecture 37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_stations">Railway station
+30</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Bruno 37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_irenee">St. Irénée
+34</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_martin">St. Martin
+d’Ainay 39</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Nizier 35</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_paul">St. Paul 33</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Pierre 35</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Polycarpe 37</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_sights">Sights 32</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_silk_museum">Silk museum
+38</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Squares (Places)
+32</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Steamers
+31</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Tête d’Or 40</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_theatres">Theatres
+31</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_to_nimes">to Nîmes
+81</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_tramways">Trams 31</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Weavers 40</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Workhouse (Hospice)
+39</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_M" id = "index_M" href = "#index">Ma</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#macon"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Macon</span> 26</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">wines 24</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">392b</span>
+<a name = "page392b" id = "page392b"> </a>
+<!-- png 453 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Maisons-Alfort 2</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#malaucene">Malaucene 57</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">Manosque 168</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">66</a>, <a class =
+"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">166</a>, <a href =
+"#page339">339</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#marcols">Marcols 84</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page284">Marlioz 284</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles">Marseilles
+111</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#marseilles_note">80</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Anglican chapel
+112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_arc_triomphe">Arc
+de Triomphe 116</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">Biblothèque
+117</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Bishop Belsunce
+116</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Boats 112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page113">Bonneveine
+113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse
+113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_bourse">Bourse
+116</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_cabs">Cabs
+111</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page77">Canal 77</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_cathedral">Cathedral 115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Charities 119</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Château
+Borely 113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_commerce">Commerce
+120</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_consigne">Consigne
+115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_corniche">Corniche
+113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_custom_house">Custom-house 112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">École des Beaux Arts
+117</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_history">History
+120</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotel_ville">Hôtel
+de Ville 115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotels">Hotels
+111</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#island_if">If, island of
+118</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_industries">Industries 119</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Marseilles&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Joliette 115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Lazarus’s grave
+119</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_lycee">Lycée
+117</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseillaise">Marseillaise,
+the 120</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page118">Martigues 118</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Money-changers
+112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Musée
+d’Archéologie 113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_notre_dame">Notre
+Dame 117</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Observatory
+115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Palais de Justice
+116</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp"> Longchamp 114</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Port 115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Préfecture
+116</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Reservoir 115</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_st_victor">St.
+Victor 117</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_sights">Sights
+112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#marseilles_steamers">Steamboats 112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Temple 112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page338">to Grenoble 338</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_to_menton">to
+Menton 112</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_trams">Trams
+113</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Zoological garden
+115</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#page341">Martinet 341</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page124">Mary Magdalene
+124</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">145</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massa">Massa 223</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page341">Maurin 341</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#mayres">Mayres 94</a>, <a class
+= "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_M2" id = "index_M2" href =
+"#index">Me&ndash;Mons</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#meana">Meana 291</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page331">Meije 331</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#melun">Melun 2</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page287">Menthon 287</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">392c</span>
+<a name = "page392c" id = "page392c"> </a>
+<!-- png 453 -->
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton">Menton 193</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#annonciade"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "spelled ‘Annonciade’ in main text">Annunciata</ins> 196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_banks">Banks
+194</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bennet_garden">Bennet garden
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Berceau 196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_cabs">Cabs 194</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cape_st_martin">Cape St.
+Martin 195</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellar">Castellar
+196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellon">Castellon <ins
+class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘197’">199</ins></a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page195">Caves 195</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_churches">Churches
+194</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_ciotti">Ciotti
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_climate">Climate
+199</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gorbio"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "spelled ‘Gorbio’ in main text">Gorvio</ins>
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page197">Gourg-d’Ora
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_grimaldi">Grimaldi
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hanbury_grounds">Hanbury
+grounds 197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_hotels">Hotels
+193</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Mont Baudon
+196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monti">Monti 198</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_mortola">Mortola
+197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnese
+196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page197"> (village) 197</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pont_st_louis">St. Louis
+196</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">to Genoa 199</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#meounes">Meounes
+129</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meursault">Meursault 24</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#meymac">Meymac 386</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues
+80</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Meze 76</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page84">Mezillac 84</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page338">Mirabeau 338</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#mirabouc">Mirabouc 306</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#miramas">Miramas 76</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#miramas_to_portbouc"> to Port Bouc 76</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#modane">Modane 290</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#modane_to_susa"> by road to Susa 290</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#modena">Modena 313</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page314">Campanile 314</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#modena_cathedral">Cathedral 314</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#modena_library">Library 314</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page315">Museo Lapidario 315</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page314">Picture gallery 314</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#moirans">Moirans 324</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco">Monaco 187</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Monastier, Le
+85</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví 184</a>,
+<a href = "#page304">304</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#monestier_de_clermont">Monestier de Clermont 345</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#le_monetier">Monètier de Briançon 332</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Monge, Gaspard
+23</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier
+91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mons">Mons cave 163</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_M3" id = "index_M3" href =
+"#index">Mont&ndash;Mu</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page192">Mont Agel
+192</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page105"> Aulas 105</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page19"> Auxois 19</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page336">
+Belledonne 336</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#mont_cenis">
+Cenis 290</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> <span class =
+"dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#mont_cenis"> Hospice 290</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page93"> Chenavari 93</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#mont_coudon"> Coudon 128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#mont_coudon_2">125</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#mont_faron"> Faron 127</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">393</span>
+<a name = "page393" id = "page393"> </a>
+<!-- png 454 -->
+
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page331">
+Ferrand 331</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page333">
+Genèvre 333</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page372">
+Gergovia 372</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page79"> Grand Sambiu 79</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page96"> Gravenne 96</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page305">
+Meidassa 305</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#mont_mezenc"> Mezenc 85</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux">
+Pelvoux 345</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a>, <a href =
+"#page344">344</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page348"> Pilat
+348</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page291">
+Pirchiriano 291</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page278"> Protomagno 278</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#pic_sancy">
+Sancy 381</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page287">
+Semnoz 287</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page329">
+Taillefer 329</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#mont_ventoux"> Ventoux 57</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page56">56</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page96"> Vestide 96</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> Viso 344</a>, <a href =
+"#page305">305</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Montagnac 88</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page281">Montallieu 281</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#montargis">Montargis 351</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Montauroux
+162</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montbard">Montbard 18</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#montbrison">Montbrison 349</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montchanin">Montchanin
+25</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to Issoire 385</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin 343</a>, <a href =
+"#page306">306</a>, <a href = "#page307">307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> to Saluzzo 344</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco_monte_carlo">Monte
+Carlo 189</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#monte_carlo_stn">192</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page210">Monte Grosso
+210</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montelimart">Montélimart
+48</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montereau">Montereau 10</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montgeron">Montgeron 2</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montmajour">Mont-Majour
+71</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montmelian_desc">Montmélian
+167</a>, <a href = "#montmelian_stn">289</a>, <a href =
+"#page338">338</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier">Montpellier
+73</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_botanic">École de
+Médecine 74</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_fabre">Musée Fabre
+74</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">to Palavas 75</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpezat">Montpezat 96</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montrieux">Montrieux
+129</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret 10</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Mornas 46</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#moulins">Moulins 355</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#les_moulins">, Les 190</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Ste. Marie 167</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#moutiers">Moutiers on Doron 320</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#la_mure_1">Mure, La 334</a>, <a href =
+"#la_mure_2">342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#murols">Murols 382</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_N" id = "index_N" href = "#index">N&ndash;Ne</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page64">Napoleon I. 64</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#napoule">Napoule
+156</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Narce 89</a>, <a class
+= "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">94</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Nervi 219</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page374">Neussargues 374</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#nevers">Nevers 353</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#neyrac_les_bains">Neyrac
+94</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_N2" id = "index_N2" href = "#index">Nice</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice">Nice 169</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Banks 172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Booksellers
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cabs">Cabs 173</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Cafés 172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Carabacél 177</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#caterina_segurana">Caterina
+Segurana 176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Cathedral 176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page175">Château, Le
+175</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Churches
+173</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cimies">Cimiés 177</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_climate">Climate
+174</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Clubs 172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Column 177</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Confectioneries 173</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#contes">Contes 174</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#nice_croix_marbre">Crois-de-Marbre 177</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_diligences">Diligences
+173</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_drives">Drives
+178</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Falicon 180</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Garibaldi 176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_hotels">Hotels and
+Pensions 170</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">House agents
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Jardin Public
+178</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Nice&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Luther 176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_massena">Massena
+177</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_memorial_chapel">Memorial
+chapel 176</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">393b</span>
+<a name = "page393b" id = "page393b"> </a>
+<!-- png 454 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Money-changers
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page179">Mont Chauve
+179</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Monte Carlo
+178</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Museum 178</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_observatory">Observatory
+180</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Paganini 176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Palais de Lascaris
+176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Pharmacies
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Post office
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_promenade">Promenade
+175</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Protestant
+churches 173</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page172">Public library
+172</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grotte_st_andre">St. André
+179</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">St. Augustin
+176</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">St. Jean 178</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_pons">St. Pons 179</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#val_obscur">Val Obscur
+178</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallon_fleurs">Vallon des
+Fleurs 179</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallons">Vallons 174</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_villa_clery">Villa Clery
+179</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche
+184</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">178</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_N3" id = "index_N3" href =
+"#index">Nicholas&ndash;Ny</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Nicholas V.
+221</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Nieigles 95</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">Nîmes 101</a>, <a href =
+"#nimes_stn">376</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#nimes_to_millau"> to Vigan 105</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Nolay 24</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#noli">Noli 209</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#novi">Novi 279</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nuits">Nuits 23</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#nuits_sous_ravieres">Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nyons">Nyons 50</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#nyons_to_serres"> to Serres 51</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_O" id = "index_O" href = "#index">O</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<span class = "pagenum left">393c</span>
+<a name = "page393c" id = "page393c"> </a>
+<!-- png 454 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Olbon 83</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Olliergues 91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Ollioules
+123</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive tree
+138</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#orange">Orange 51</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#prince_orange"> Prince of 52</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#orcival">Orcival 380</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Orgon 66</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ortolans">Ortolans 56</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ospedaletti">Ospedaletti
+202</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#oulx">Oulx 291</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ours_mons">Ours-Mons 88</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_P" id = "index_P" href = "#index">P&ndash;Pi</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Palavas 75</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Paradisino
+278</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial 27</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne
+346</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles 1</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> Directions 1</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"> to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes
+351</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles by Lyons 1</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#paris_to_turin"> to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#paris_to_modane_lyons"> to Turin by Grenoble 322</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#parma">Parma 310</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page313">Parmesan cheese 313</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pas_des_lanciers">Pas-des-Lanciers 376</a>, <a class =
+"paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page88">88</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegli">Pegli 211</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pelago 278</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Pelussin 81</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Perinaldo
+201</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#perosa">Perosa 307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#perosa_to_cesanne"> to Cesanne 307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont-Dauphin 307</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pertuis">Pertuis 338</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#pertuis_2">77</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#petite_afrique">Petite
+Afrique 186</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_petrarch">Petrarch
+65</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrebelle">Peyerbelle 95</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyraud">Peyraud 81</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrolles">Peyrolles 79</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#piacenza">Piacenza 309</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pian_fiorenza">Pian Fiorenza 308</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#pian_del_re">
+del Ré 308</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page334">Pierre-Chatel 334</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pierrefeu">Pierrefeu
+130</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pietrasanta">Pietrasanta
+223</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pigna">Pigna 201</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pinerolo">Pinerolo 306</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa">Pisa 223</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_baptistery">Baptistery
+225</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Cabs 224</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_campo_santo">Campo Santo
+225</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_cathedral">Cathedral
+224</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">Hotels 223</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_leaning_tower">Leaning
+Tower 225</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">394</span>
+<a name = "page394" id = "page394"> </a>
+<!-- png 455 -->
+
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Post office
+224</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_sta_maria">Santa Maria
+226</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page226">University
+226</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja
+231</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_P2" id = "index_P2" href =
+"#index">Po&ndash;Pu</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Polignac 89</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page307">Pomaretto 307</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pomponiana">Pomponiana
+143</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Pontaix 47</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pontassieve">Pontassieve
+277</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pont_avignon">Pont Avignon
+99</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#pont_darc"> d’Arc 97</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page95"> de-la-Beaune 95</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#pont_du_gard"> du-Gard 104</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page329">
+Ecofier 329</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page377">
+Gibaud 377</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#pont_st_esprit"> St. Esprit 98</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#pontcharra">Pontcharra 337</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Pontigny 16</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Pontius Pilate
+43</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porquerolles">Porquerolles
+131</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#port_bouc">Port Bouc 76</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> <span class =
+"dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#port_bouc_to_arles"> to Arles 76</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#port_cros"> Cros 132</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page73"> Grau du Roi 73</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#port_man"> Man 132</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#port_st_louis"> St. Louis 72</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porto_maurizio">Porto
+Maurizio 207</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#oneglia"> Oneglia 208</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page220"> Venere 220</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Portofino
+220</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pougues_les_eaux">Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pouilly_sur_loire">Pouilly-sur-Loire 352</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Pourcheyrolles
+95</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Pouzin 92</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page211">Pra 211</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Pradelles 89</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">95</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#prades">Prades (Ardèche)
+95</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#prato">Prato 232</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page289">Praz 289</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#pre_st_didier">Pré-St Didier 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Prices
+109</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#privas">Privas 92</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">Puget, Pierre
+80</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#puget_theniers">Puget-Theniers 182</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Puligny 24</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome 372</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_Q" id = "index_Q" href = "#index">Q</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#queyras"><span class = "smallcaps">Queyras</span>
+344</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Quincy abbey 18</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_R" id = "index_R" href = "#index">R</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#randan"><span class = "smallcaps">Randan</span> 366</a>,
+<a href = "#page368">368</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#rapallo">Rapallo
+220</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#reggio_emilia">Reggio Emilia 313</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#remoulins">Remoulins 99</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#resin_baths">Resin baths
+57</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">48</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rians">Rians 79</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riez">Riez 166</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">168</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#riom">Riom 369</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page329">Riouperoux 329</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Rioutort 96</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">394b</span>
+<a name = "page394b" id = "page394b"> </a>
+<!-- png 455 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#ris">Ris 367</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#rives">Rives 323</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Riviera, the 107</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_climate">Climate
+108</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Cost of
+living 109</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#to_riviera">road to 1</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_vegetation">Vegetation
+108</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#roanne">Roanne 346</a>, <a href = "#page348">348</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Robilante
+183</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page160">Rocavignon
+160</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#la_roche_cevins">Roche Cevins 320</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rochemaure">Rochemaure
+92</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roche_blanche"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "written ‘Roche-Blanche’ in main text">Rocher
+Blanc</ins> 164</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#rocher_noir"> Noir 165</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">Rognac 77</a>, <a href
+= "#page376">376</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page77"> to Aix-en-Provence 77</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page77"> to Roquefavour 77</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#romaneche">Romaneche 28</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Roquebillère
+181</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roquebrune">Roquebrune
+192</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour
+aqueduct 77</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquemaure">Roquemaure
+99</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Roquotaillado
+tunnel 162</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Rosans 51</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">Roumoulles
+168</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#chambery_rousseau">Rousseau, J. J. 288</a>, <a href =
+"#page287">287</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Rouvray 16</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#royat">Royat 376</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">Ruoms 96</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Ruota 201</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_S" id = "index_S" href = "#index">S&ndash;St.
+N</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Saillans 47</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page348">Sail-les-Bains 348</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#saincaize">Saincaize 355</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page358">St. Agnan 358</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnes
+131</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page348">St. Alban 348</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">St. Ambroix 96</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_andre_le_gaz">St. André-le-Gaz 322</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#st_andre_le_gaz"> to Chambery 322</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban 339</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page166">166</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ste_baume">St. Baume (Agay)
+147</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page144"> (Bouches du Rhône) 144</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">St. Bernard 27</a>,
+<a href = "#page287">287</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">St. Cannat 79</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_cesaire">St. Cesaire
+162</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_chamas">St. Chamas 76</a>,
+<a href = "#page376">376</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_christophe">St. Christophe 330</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Cyre
+123</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_didier">St. Didier
+57</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">St. Edmund 17</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_etienne">St. Etienne 346</a>, <a href =
+"#page349">349</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#st_etienne">manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and
+ribbons 346</a>, <a href = "#page347">347</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ste_eulalie">St. Eulalie
+96</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_florentin">St. Florentin
+16</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page16"> to Chablis 16</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#st_galmier">St. Galmier 346</a>, <a href =
+"#st_galmier_desc">348</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">394c</span>
+<a name = "page394c" id = "page394c"> </a>
+<!-- png 455 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_georges_daurac">St.
+Georges-d’Aurac 91</a>, <a href = "#st_georges_daurac_stn">374</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page321">St. Germain 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_germain_mont_dor">St.
+Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St. Germain-des-Fossés 358</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">St. Gilles
+72</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat
+158</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page354">St. Honoré baths 354</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">St. Honoré-les-Bains
+25</a>, <a href = "#page354">354</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#port_st_jean">St. Jean
+185</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page106">St. Jean du Bruel
+106</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page13">St. Julien-du-Sault
+13</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">St. Louis (king)
+73</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Marcel caves
+98</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_marcellin">St. Marcellin 324</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#st_marcellin">
+to Pont-en-Royan, 324</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">St. Marguerite
+157</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_mart">St. Mart 377</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Martin 98</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_martin_lantosque">St.
+Martin-Lantosque 181</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">St. Maurice 2</a>,
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">50</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_maximin">St. Maximin
+143</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">St. May 51</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page122">St. Menet
+122</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_michel">St. <ins class = "correction"
+title = "spelled ‘Michel’ in main text">Michael</ins> (Mont Cenis) 289</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Nazaire
+123</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_nectaire">St. Nectaire 385</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_S2" id = "index_S2" href = "#index">St.
+P&ndash;San</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#st_pardoux">St. Pardoux 357</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">St. Paul-Trois-Château
+50</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_peray">St. Péray 82</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">wine 82</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">St. Pêre 15</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#st_pierre_dalbigny"> to Annecy 289</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"> to Courmayeur 320</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">St. Pierre-d’Argenson
+48</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_pierreville">St. Pierreville
+83</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">St. Pilon
+144</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page341">St. Pons 341</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_priest">St. Priest 322</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">St. Privat 91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_rambert">St. Rambert-d’Albon
+43</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_raphael">St. Raphael
+147</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_remi_en_rollat">St. Remi-en-Rollat 368</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_remy">St. Remy 67</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_sauveur">St. Sauveur
+83</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">St. Seine 19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">St. Thomé 97</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_tropez">St. Tropez
+145</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_vallier">St. Vallier
+165</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">43</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#st_yorre">St. Yorre 366</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Salon 66</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#saluzzo">Saluzzo 307</a>, <a href =
+"#page344">344</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#saluzzo"> to
+Cuneo 307</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 308</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page308"> to
+Paesana 308</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page308"> to
+Sampeyre 308</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">395</span>
+<a name = "page395" id = "page395"> </a>
+<!-- png 456 -->
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Sampierdarena
+212</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page291">San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page308">San Chiaffredo 308</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page308">San Dalmazzo 308</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_giuliano">San Giuliano
+227</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo">San Remo
+203</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_cabs">Cabs
+203</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ceriana">Ceriana 204</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_climate">Climate
+204</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_hotels">Hotels
+203</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#madonna_della_guardia">Madonna
+205</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monte_bignone">Monte Bignone
+205</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#poggio"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "text reads ‘Poggia’">Poggio</ins> 204</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_romolo">St. Romolo
+205</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#san_remo_to_taggia"> to Taggia 207</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">San Stefano
+207</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">San Terenzo
+221</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page352">Sancerre 352</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#santa_margherita">Santa
+Margherita 220</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_S3" id = "index_S3" href =
+"#index">Saou&ndash;Su</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#saou">Saou 46</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sarzana">Sarzana
+221</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage 327</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Sauclières 105</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Saugues 91</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Saulieu 16</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page373">Saut-du-Loup 373</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Savigny 24</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#savines">Savines 343</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona">Savona 209</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_sea_bathing">Sea
+bathing 110</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#sechilienne">Séchilienne 329</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#seez">Seez 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#seine_source">Seine, source of
+19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#semur">Semur 16</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#senez">Senez 166</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens">Sens 10</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#sept_laux">Sept Laux 337</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sermizelles">Sermizelles
+15</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#serres">Serres 340</a>, <a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page51">51</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Serrières 81</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Sestri Levante
+220</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#sestri_ponente"> Ponente 212</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#settignano">Settignano
+277</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Seyne-les-Alpes 339</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Shelley 221</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">223</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#sisteron">Sisteron 339</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#six_fours">Six-Fours
+123</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sollies_pont">Solliès-Pont
+142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">129</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Solliès-Ville
+129</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sorgues">Sorgues 54</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sospel"><ins class =
+"correction" title = "written ‘Sospel’ in main text">Sospello</ins>
+182</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#loire_source">Source of the
+Loire 84</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#souvigny">Souvigny 356</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#spezia">Spezia 220</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#steam_trams">Steam trams 304</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Sue du Pal 96</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#susa">Susa 291</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Suze-le-Rousse
+50</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_T" id = "index_T" href =
+"#index">T&ndash;Turbie</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">395b</span>
+<a name = "page395b" id = "page395b"> </a>
+<!-- png 456 -->
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#taggia"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Taggia</span> 207</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#page206">206</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tain">Tain 43</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page286">Talloires 286</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tanlay">Tanlay 17</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">Tarascon 66</a>,
+<a href = "#tarascon_stn">376</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Martha’s grave 67</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Taulignan 49</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#les_tavernettes">Tavernettes, Les 290</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Teil 93</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page282">Tenay 282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#tenda">Tenda 183</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page290">Termignon 290</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Theoule
+155</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Thezièrs 99</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#thiers">Thiers 367</a>, <a href = "#thiers_2">350</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page10">Thomery 10</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#thueyts">Thueyts 94</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page321">Thuile 321</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre 17</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Péllice 305</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 306</a></p>
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Toulon 124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_arsenal">Arsenal
+125</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page125">Bagne 125</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Balaguier 127</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Belle-Poule
+124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Cap Brun 128</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_cathedral">Cathedral
+126</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Dardenne 128</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Toulon&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_diligences">Diligences
+129</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Hotels 124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Le Pradet 128</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Le Tamaris
+127</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mont_faron">Mont Faron
+127</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_omnibus">Omnibuses
+128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#toulon_place_puget">124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_quai_port">Port, the
+124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Puget’s house
+126</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Rue Lafayette
+126</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">St. François de Paule
+126</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_mandrier">St. Mandrier
+127</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">St. Marguerite
+128</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Smith, Sir Sydney
+126</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Temple Protestant
+124</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_town_hall">Town Hall
+126</a></p>
+
+<p><a href = "#page322">Tour-du-Pin 322</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournon">Tournon 82</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournus">Tournus 26</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Trayas, Le
+148</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trets">Trets 144</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Trévoux 29</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href =
+"riviera.html#trinite_victor">Trinité-Victor 182</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troy_weight">Troy weight
+13</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troyes">Troyes 11</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#truffles">Truffles 55</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#tulle">Tulle 386</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_turbie">Turbie, La
+192</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page191">191</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_T2" id = "index_T2" href = "#index">Turin</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">395c</span>
+<a name = "page395c" id = "page395c"> </a>
+<!-- png 456 -->
+
+<p><a href = "#turin">Turin 292</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page300">Accademia Albertina 300</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_armoury">Armoury 297</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page297">Biblioteca del Ré 297</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Booksellers 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_cabs">Cabs 292</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page293">Cafés 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_castello">Castello, the 299</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_cathedral">Cathedral 298</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_sights">Cavour house 294</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#turin_monuments">
+monument 301</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_cemetery">Cemetery 302</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_madre_di_dio">Gran Madre di Dio 300</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page303">Gressini 303</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_hotels">Hotels 292</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_royal_palace">King’s palace 298</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_la_consolata">La Consolata 301</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page297">Medagliere del Ré 297</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Money-changers 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_monuments">Monuments 301</a>, <a href =
+"#turin_stations">293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_museo_civico">Museo Civico 299</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_pal_accademia">Museum of antiquities and picture
+gallery 294</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Museum of zoology and mineralogy
+297</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p>Turin&mdash;</p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano 297</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#turin_sights">
+dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page301"> di Citta
+301</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page293">Piazza Carlo Felice 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page293"> dello
+Statuto 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href = "#page293"> San
+Carlo 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#turin_piazza_vitt_em"> Vitt. Emanuele 300</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_post">Post and telegraph offices 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_stations">Railway stations 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_la_superga">Superga, La 302</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#page298">Teatro Regio 298</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_theatres">Theatres 293</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">to Cuneo 153</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_to_florence">to Florence 309</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa
+279</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">to Savona
+183</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_cabs">Trams 292</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_university">University 300</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_via_po">Via di Po 300</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#turin_wines">Wines 303</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_U" id = "index_U" href = "#index">U</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page341"><span class = "smallcaps">Ubaye</span>
+341</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page336">Uriage baths 336</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Usclades 96</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#uzes">Uzès 99</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_V" id = "index_V" href = "#index">V&ndash;Ve</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaison"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Vaison</span> 53</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#val_louise">Val Louise 333</a>, <a href =
+"#val_louise_2">345</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">Valbonne 98</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">396</span>
+<a name = "page396" id = "page396"> </a>
+<!-- png 457 -->
+
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#valdieri">Valdieri 181</a>,
+<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valence">Valence 44</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches from 45</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris
+154</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valleraugue">Valleraugue
+105</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallombrosa">Vallombrosa
+278</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vallon">Vallon 97</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valreas">Valréas 49</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vals">Vals 93</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#var">Var 169</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#varazze">Varazze
+210</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#varennes">Varennes 26</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#varzy">Varzy 354</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page381">Vassivières 381</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaucluse">Vaucluse 64</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Vaugris 43</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#velars">Velars 20</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Venanson
+181</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence">Vence 163</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes
+169</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vencigliato">Vencigliato
+277</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page330">Venosc 330</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ventimiglia">Ventimiglia
+200</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Vernet 91</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span> (<a href =
+"#page339">Digne) 339</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum">396b</span>
+<a name = "page396b" id = "page396b"> </a>
+<!-- png 457 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#verrey">Verrey 19</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">Vesseaux 93</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#veynes">Veynes 340</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vezelay">Vezelay 15</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_V2" id = "index_V2" href =
+"#index">Vi&ndash;Vo</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#viareggio">Viareggio
+223</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#vichy">Vichy 359</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vienne">Vienne 42</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#vif">Vif 345</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vigan">Vigan 105</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#page105"> to Millau 105</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villa_pallavicini">Villa
+Pallavicini 211</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page331">Villard-d’Arène 331</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#villefort">Villefort 375</a></p>
+<p><span class = "dash">&mdash;&mdash;</span><a href =
+"#bagnols_les_bains"> to Bagnol-les-Bains 375</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche
+184</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#villefranche_saone">Villefranche-sur-Saône 29</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Villeperdrix 51</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page344">Ville-la-Vieille 344</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#villeneuve_avignon">Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Hospital 63</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Marchioness de Ganges
+63</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#villeneuve_george">Villeneuve-St. George 2</a></p>
+
+<span class = "pagenum left">396c</span>
+<a name = "page396c" id = "page396c"> </a>
+<!-- png 457 -->
+
+<p><a class = "paris" href =
+"paris.html#villeneuve_yonne">Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Vinadio 183</a>,
+<a href = "#page342">342</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#virieu">Virieu 322</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#virieu_le_grand">Virieu-le-Grand 282</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#viviers">Viviers 97</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#vizille_1">Vizille 345</a>, <a href =
+"#vizille_2">328</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#voghera">Voghera 309</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#voiron">Voiron 323</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#voiron">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323</a></p>
+<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#voltri">Voltri 211</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#volvic">Volvic 377</a>, <a href =
+"#volvic_desc">369</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#page339">Volx 339</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#voreppe">Voreppe 324</a></p>
+<p class = "inset">
+<a href = "#voreppe">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vougeot">Vougeot 23</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">Voulte, La
+82</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Voute-Chilhac
+91</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2">
+<a name = "index_W" id = "index_W" href = "#index">W</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#waldensian_doctrines"><span class =
+"smallcaps">Waldenses, or Vaudois</span> 305</a></p>
+<p><a href = "#waldenses">Waldensian valleys 304</a></p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<p><a href = "#page286">Warrens, Mme. 286</a>, <a href =
+"#page288">288</a></p>
+<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Wellington 2</a></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h6>THE END.</h6>
+
+<p>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class = "center">
+<i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. &amp; R. Clark</span>,
+Edinburgh.</i></p>
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
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