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diff --git a/old/files/riviera.html b/old/files/riviera.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..da2804c --- /dev/null +++ b/old/files/riviera.html @@ -0,0 +1,10782 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The South of France—East Half (The Riviera)</title> +<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + +<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css"> +</head> + +<body> + +<div class = "mynote"> +<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the +text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover +popups</ins>.</p> + +<p class = "center"> +<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a> +(<i>separate file</i>)<br> +<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate +file</i>)<br> +<br> +The Riviera: <a href = "#part2_contents">Itineraries</a><br> +The Riviera: <a href = "#part2_maps">Maps</a><br> +The Riviera: <a href = "#riviera">Text</a><br> +<br> +<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a> +and +<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate +file</i>)</p> + +</div> + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part2_contents" id = "part2_contents">ITINERARY</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 107–280)</span></h4> + +<h4 class = "itinerary">THE RIVIERA.</h4> + +<p><a href = "#riviera"><b>The Riviera.</b></a> Hotels, productions, +climate +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page107">107</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#marseilles"><b>Marseilles.</b></a> Hotels, trams, sights, +excursions +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page111">111</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#marseilles_to_menton"><b>MARSEILLES to MENTON.</b></a> +The French Riviera +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page122">122</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Marseilles to <a href = "#toulon">Toulon</a>, passing several pretty +little towns, of which the most important is <a href = "#la_seyne">La +Seyne</a> (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the +neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The +most start from the <a href = "#toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a> +(pp. 124 and <a href = "#mourillon">129</a>).</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Toulon to <a href = "#dardenne">Dardenne</a> from the “Place” to the W. +of the Place Puget (<a href = "#toulon_omnibus">p. 128</a>), to +<a href = "#hyeres">Hyères</a> from the <a href = +"#toulon_place_puget">Place Puget</a> (pp. 124, 133), <a href = +"#cap_brun">Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite</a> from the <a href = +"#toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a> (p. 128), to <a href = +"#le_pradet">Le Pradet</a> from the Place d’Italie (<a href = +"#page128">p. 128</a>).</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#toulon_diligences">Toulon to Meounes</a> and Brignoles by +Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a +picturesque country (p. 129), <a href = +"#toulon_to_collobrieres">to Collobrières</a> by La Crau and Pierrefeu +(p. 130).</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Steamer to <a href = "#la_seyne">La Seyne</a> (pp. 124, 127), to <a href += "#st_mandrier">St. Mandrier</a> (p. 127), to the <a href = +"#iles_dor">Iles d’Hyères or d’Or</a> (<a href = +"#toulon_quai_port">pp. 124</a>, 131).</p> + +<p><a href = "#iles_dor"><b>The Iles d’Or.</b></a> Porquerolles, +Port-Cros, Ile du Levant +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page131">131</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#toulon_to_hyeres"><b>Toulon to Hyères</b></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page132">132</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#hyeres"><b>Hyères.</b></a> Hotels, cabs, drives, +stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page133">133</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Hyères to <a href = "#les_salins">Les Salins</a>, <a href = +"#la_plage">La Plage</a> and the peninsula of <a href = +"#giens">Giens</a> (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by <a href = +"#pomponiana">Pomponiana</a> (p. 141); to <a href = +"#bormes">Bormes</a> and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to <a href = +"#st_tropez">St. Tropez</a> (p. 134); whence steamer to <a href = +"#st_raphael">St. Raphael</a> (p. 147); or coach to <a href = +"#le_luc">Le Luc</a> (p. 144).</p> + +<p><a href = "#la_pauline"><b>La Pauline.</b></a> Diligence and train to +Hyères +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page142">142</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#carnoules"><b>Carnoules.</b></a> Carnoules to Gardanne by +rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page142">142</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_luc"><b>Le Luc.</b></a> Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, +across the Maure mountains +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page144">144</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#les_arcs">Les Arcs</a> to <a href = +"#draguignan">Draguignan</a></b> by rail. From Draguignan diligences +start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at +these towns with other diligences +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page145">145</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#cannes"><b>Cannes</b></a> to <a href = +"#auribeau">Auribeau,</a> (p. 156), to <a href = "#cannet">Cannet,</a> +(p. 154), to <a href = "#cap_antibes">Cap d’Antibes</a> +(p. 154), to <a href = "#castelaras">Castelaras</a> (p. 156), +to <a href = "#la_croisette">Croisette</a> (p. 154), to <a href = +"#croix_des_gardes">Croix des Gardes</a> (p. 155), to <a href = +"#esterel">Estérel</a> (p. 155), to <a href = "#grasse">Grasse</a> +(p. 160), to the <a href = "#iles_lerins">Iles de Lerins</a> +(p. 156), to <a href = "#mougins">Mougins</a> (p. 156), to +<a href = "#napoule">Napoule</a> and <a href = "#theoule">Theoule</a> +(p. 155), to <a href = "#pegomas">Pégomas</a> (p. 156), to +<a href = "#st_cassien">St. Cassien</a> (p. 155), to <a href = +"#vallauris">Vallauris</a> by the Golfe de Jouan and <a href = +"#la_californie">Californie</a> (p. 152).</p> + +<p><a href = "#grasse_to_cagnes"><b>Grasse</b> to Cagnes</a> by Le Bar, +the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to <a href = +"#digne">Digne</a> by St. Vallier and <a href = +"#castellane">Castellane</a> (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx +and <a href = "#manosque">Manosque</a> (p. 166).</p> + +<p><a href = "#nice_to_cuneo"><b>Nice to St. Martin Lantosque</b></a> by +coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page180">180</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Nice to <a href = "#puget_theniers">Puget-Theniers</a></b> and +<a href = "#st_sauveur">Saint Sauveur</a> by coach. From St. Sauveur an +excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to <a href = +"#st_etienne_2">St. Etienne</a>; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (<a +href = "#map163">map, p. 165</a>). +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page182">182</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#nice_to_cuneo"><b>Nice to Cuneo</b></a> by the tunnel of +the Col di Tenda +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page182">182</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#savona_to_turin"><b>Savona to Turin</b></a> by Carru, +Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page183">183</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#beaulieu">Beaulieu</a> to <a href = +"#port_st_jean">Port St. Jean</a></b> and the Lighthouse—a +pleasant walk +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page185">185</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#monaco_monte_carlo">Monte Carlo</a> to <a href = +"#nice">Nice</a></b> by the coast-road +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page189">189</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#monaco">Monaco</a> to <a href = "#la_turbie">La +Turbie</a></b> and the <a href = "#tete_de_chien">Tête de Chien</a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page191">191</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#menton_to_genoa"><b>MENTON to GENOA</b></a>—the +western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page200">200</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#bordighera"><span class = +"smallcaps">Bordighera</span></a>, up the valley of the Nervia, <span +class = "smallcaps">to <a href = "#pigna">Pigna</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page201">201</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#san_romolo_to_mt_bignone"><span class = "smallcaps">San +Remo to Monte Bignone</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page205">205</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#genoa_to_pisa">GENOA to PISA</a> and +LEGHORN</b>—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page219">219</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#avenza"><b>Avenza to Carrara</b></a> by rail—a very +easy and interesting excursion +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page222">222</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#pisa_to_florence"><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to +Florence</span></a> by Pontedera and Empoli (<a href = "#map199">map, +p. 199</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page227">227</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#pisa_to_florence"><span class = "smallcaps">Pisa to +Florence</span></a> by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page227">227</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#lucca_baths"><span class = "smallcaps">Lucca to the Baths +of Lucca</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page230">230</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#florence_to_vallombrosa"><span class = +"smallcaps">Florence to Vallombrosa</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page277">277</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#genoa_to_turin"><span class = "smallcaps">Genoa to +Turin</span></a> by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page279">279</a></span> +</p> + +<h6 class = "sans">END OF THE RIVIERA.</h6> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part2_maps" id = "part2_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 107–280)</span></h4> + +<p> +<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p> + +<p><b>Cannes</b>, Environs of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map155">155</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.</p> + +<p><b>Cannes</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map149">149</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Corniche Road</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map185">185</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as +well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice +and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the +railway.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map contains also the <b>Environs</b> of Nice, Monaco, and +Menton.</p> + +<p><b>Estérel Mountains</b>, or <b>Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map146">146</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Florence</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map234">234</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza +Michelangiolo.</p> + +<p><b>Galleria degli Uffizi</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map237">237</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both +sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi +straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace +by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.</p> + +<p><b>Genoa</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map214">214</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Hyères</b>, Environs of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map129">129</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the +environs of both towns are given on the same map.</p> + +<p><b>Italian Riviera</b>, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map199">199</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The +French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts +on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to +Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”</p> + +<p><b>Leghorn</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map226">226</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Marseilles</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map113">113</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Marseilles to Cannes</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map123">123</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and +in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, +from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side +are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which +the largest is Porquerolles.</p> + +<p><b>Nice</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map171">171</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Pisa</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map224">224</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided +to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo +or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the +cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain +over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.</p> + +<p><b>Savona to Rapallo</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map211">211</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, +Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.</p> + +<p><b>The Durance to the Var and San Remo</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map163">163</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, +approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. +From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.</p> + +<p><b>The Italian Riviera</b> or north-west Italy, including the +railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map199"><ins class = "correction" title += "variously indexed as 199, 200">200</ins></a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Thermometer</b>, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale +<span class = "page"><a href = "#thermometer">107</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Toulon</b>, Environs of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map129">129</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small +steamers sailing from the port.</p> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + +<div class = "itinerary"> + +<!-- png 144 duplicates map on 26/27 --> + +<span class = "pagenum">107</span> +<a name = "page107" id = "page107"> </a> +<!-- png 145 --> + +<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "riviera" id = "riviera"> +THE RIVIERA.</a></h4> + +<p class = "line"> </p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary">HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.</h5> + +<p class = "illustration float"> +<a name = "thermometer" id = "thermometer"> +<img src = "images/thermometer.gif" width = "91" height = "536" +alt = "thermometer in Fahrenheit and Centigrade"></a> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps">The Riviera</span> is a strip of land +extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of +the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two +portions—the Riviera from Hyères to Genoa, 203 miles long; and the +Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_climate" id = +"riviera_climate"> +Temperature.</a></span> +The milder and more frequented of the two is the former—the +Western Riviera—which has been subjected to most careful and +minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified +according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203 +miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in +all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from +each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some +peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity +being more often accidental and social—such as the people met +with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little +things which exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and +well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of +temperature. None of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are +sufficiently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds +when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges +have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the +streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold +winds, and all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against +them—the more +<span class = "pagenum">108</span> +<a name = "page108" id = "page108"> </a> +<!-- png 146 --> +sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is +the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous +<b>Mistral</b>, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera +feels like a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean +winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, +considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of +San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are +December and January. With February the temperature commences to rise +progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is +the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_vegetation" id = +"riviera_vegetation"> +Vegetation.</a></span> +“In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the +long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their +appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are +quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue +hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the +olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the +hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the Mediterranean +heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, convolvuli, +serapiases, and gladioli.” —<i>H. S. Roberton</i>. There is a +much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm +flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the +midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the +orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (<i>Schinus molle</i>), +the camphor tree (<i>Ligustrum ovalifolium</i>), the locust tree +(<i>Ceratona siliqua</i>), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and +different species of the Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. +In marshy places the common bamboo (<i>Arundo donax</i>) attains a great +height; while the <i>Sedum dasyphyllum</i>, the aloe, and the Opuntium +or prickly-pear, clothe the dry rocky banks with verdure. The most +important tree commercially is the olive, which occupies the lower part +of the mountains and immense tracts in the valleys. The higher +elevations are divided among the cork tree (<i>Quercus suber</i>), the +Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the chestnut tree. The +Japanese medlar (<i>Eriobotrya japonica</i>) is common in the orchards, +flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the exception of +the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees ripen their +fruit too late for the winter resident.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "riviera_cost_living" id = +"riviera_cost_living"> +<span class = "headnote"><i>The Riviera:</i> +Cost of Living.</span></a></p> + +<p>On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, +Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. +or 9s. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a +substantial meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin +<span class = "pagenum">109</span> +<a name = "page109" id = "page109"> </a> +<!-- png 147 --> +ordinaire) to both. In some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day +is as low as 6s. If two are together, especially two ladies or a +gentleman and his wife, an excellent plan is to take a furnished room, +which, with a south exposure and good furniture, ought to cost about £2 +per month. They can easily prepare their own breakfast, and they can get +their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apartments should +be taken, which vary from £2 to £30 per month. For the season, from +October to May, furnished apartments are let at prices varying from £18 +to £100. As a general rule it is best to alight at some hotel, and, +while on the spot, to select either the pension or apartments, as no +description can give an adequate idea of the state of the drains nor of +the people of the house. A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, +a cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids +are sold by the litre, equal to nearly a quart of four (not six) to the +gallon. Solids are sold by the kilogramme, or, as it is generally +called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. 3¼ oz.</p> + +<p>Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton +cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs +when at their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the +litre. The best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese +there are a great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the +Roquefort and the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from +2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "riviera_fish" id = +"riviera_fish"> +<i>The Riviera:</i> Fish.<br> +Vegetables.</a></span> +Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the coast are: the +Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or Bass, the +Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard (Grondin), the +John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the Conger are very +fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior to those caught +in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. <a name = +"riviera_vegetables" id = "riviera_vegetables">Good vegetables</a> can +be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage, +cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and artichokes. The cardon +(<i>Cynara cardunculus</i>) and salsifis (<i>Tragopogon porrifolius</i>) +are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon tastes like +celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes are of good +quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the stations are +English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and +grocers.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "riviera_advantages" id = +"riviera_advantages"> +<span class = "headnote"><i>The Riviera:</i> +Advantages.</span></a></p> + +<p>Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the +Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this +region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine +which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun +<span class = "pagenum">110</span> +<a name = "page110" id = "page110"> </a> +<!-- png 148 --> +often rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a +brightness and warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then +sinks without a cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, +displaying in his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints +which characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light, +a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a +softness of outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy +description. In the early stages of phthisis, and especially when the +patient is young and active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden +exposure, this cheering influence is most beneficial. It is of great +importance that, while taking the needful care of himself, he should not +degenerate at an early age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as +an every-day increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that +under the influence of medicine and climate a large number of these +patients gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with +due care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never +neglect to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience +and advice with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and +may often prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in +unhealthy localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, +that patients should bring with them a letter from their physician +describing their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.</p> + +<p>The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then +there is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny +walks there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and +Bordighera.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +<i>The Riviera:</i> +Sea-bathing. Doctors’ Fees.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "riviera_sea_bathing" id = +"riviera_sea_bathing"><i>Sea-bathing</i></a> on the Riviera may be +continued with advantage by many during the greater part of the winter +season. As the rise and fall of the tide are so trifling, the beach is +always in a fit state for the bather. The water of the Mediterranean is +more highly mineralised than that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per +cent of common salt.</p> + +<p><a name = "riviera_doctors" id = "riviera_doctors"><i>Doctors’ +Fees.</i></a>—French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10 +frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20 +frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients. +An extra charge is made for night work.</p> + +<p>Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, +tea, arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a +little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary +wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and +should always be watered.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">111</span> +<a name = "page111" id = "page111"> </a> +<!-- png 149 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles.</span></p> + +<!-- png 151 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 113</span> +<a name = "map113" id = "map113" href = "images/map113.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map113thumb.png" width = "341" height = "548" +alt = "plan of Marseilles"></a> +</p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "marseilles" id = "marseilles"> +MARSEILLES.</a></h5> + +<p><b>MARSEILLES</b>, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 +hrs. 37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice +5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons, +120½ m. W. from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the +departure side of the railway station is the <b>Terminus Hotel</b> +(dear). The hotel omnibuses await passengers. Call out loudly the name +of the hotel desired, to which the driver of its omnibus will +respond.</p> + +<p>A plentiful supply of <a name = "marseilles_cabs" id = +"marseilles_cabs"><b>Cabs</b></a> is both at the railway and the +custom-house station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is +furnished with an official tariff, which, though constantly changing, +may be stated to be—Between 6 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the +course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ +fr.; the hour, 2¼ frs. From midnight to 6 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30 kilo., +or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each passenger +1 fr.</p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_hotels" id = +"marseilles_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—In the Rue Cannebière, +ascending from the Port, are very fine <b>Cafés</b>, and in the eastern +continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the best <b>Hotels</b>. The Hôtel +du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles; and the Hôtel Marseilles; +all near each other, and charging from 12 to 20 frs. per day.</p> + +<p>Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R. +Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between +the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; +on the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the +Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des +Colonies.</p> + +<p>In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand +and an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of +which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms, +2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de +l’Europe, a “maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including +service, cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the +neighbouring restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is +G. Restaurant des Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the +Restaurant Bouches du Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class +houses in the Cours Belsunce which can be recommended are—the +Californie; Deux Mondes; Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel +du Cours is good also, but it is only a “maison meublée.” The +continuation of the Cours Belsunce is called the Cours St. Louis, where +a flower-market +<span class = "pagenum">112</span> +<a name = "page112" id = "page112"> </a> +<!-- png 150 --> +is held. Just off this Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good, +and clean house, the hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to +3 frs.; dinner, à la carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and +cheap house, the Hôtel Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for +which either a cab or the general omnibus must be taken at the +station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Steamboats. Custom-House.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_steamers" id = +"marseilles_steamers"><i>Steamboats.</i></a>—The steamers of the +Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et C<sup>ie</sup>, of Fraissinet et +C<sup>ie</sup>, of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc., arrive and +depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The <a name = +"marseilles_custom_house" id = +"marseilles_custom_house">custom-house</a> is at the north end of the +dock, and just outside the dock-gates are porters and a large cab-stand. +The custom-house contains one waiting-room for the first and second +class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their +baggage examined have to pay 6 sous at the end of the baggage-room for +each box, for which they receive an acknowledgment. A tramway runs +from No. 1 Quai Joliette to Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue +Cannebière by the R. de la République. There are no hotels near the +steamboat station.</p> + +<p>Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the +<b>Château d’If</b>, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small +steamers make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same +place, but do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this +part of the quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of +oranges and other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on +the port, the Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles +opposite, 1 sou. At the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and +the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin +Carénage, by the side of Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the +interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up +to Notre Dame.</p> + +<p>The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. +There is another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post +Office at No. 53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor, +opposite the entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour. +Anglican chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and +parallel to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the +École des Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.</p> + +<p>Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.</p> + +<p>The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue +Noailles.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Sights. Trams.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_sights" id = +"marseilles_sights"><b>Sights.</b></a>—Palais Longchamp, an +artistic edifice, containing the Picture Gallery and the <b>Natural +History Museum</b>; free. Closed on Mondays and every day between 12 and +2 (see <a href = "#marseilles_longchamp">p. 114</a>). Near the +<span class = "pagenum">113</span> +<a name = "page113" id = "page113"> </a> +<!-- png 152 --> +Palais is the Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. <a href = +"#marseilles_notre_dame">Notre Dame de la Garde</a> (p. 116). The +shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the +Corniche road.</p> + +<p>Of all the <a name = "marseilles_trams" id = +"marseilles_trams"><b>Trams</b></a> the most important starts from the +left of the statue in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des +Fleurs and the Prado to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond +the racecourse. Just behind the Bonneveine terminus is the <a name = +"marseilles_borely" id = "marseilles_borely"><b>Château Borély</b></a>, +containing the Musée d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician +relics found in the neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the +Phoenician origin of Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the +ground-floor are Roman mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, +mummies; and in the end room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, +regulating the tariff of the prices to be paid to the priests for +sacrifices in the temple of Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique +glass, necklaces, fayence from Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold +jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 +ft. in diameter.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Corniche. Bouillabaisse.</span></p> + +<p>Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de +Rome, near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the <a name = +"marseilles_corniche" id = "marseilles_corniche"><b>Corniche</b></a> +road, considered the most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. +The gardens and pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are +due to the irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing +establishments on the Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of +the restaurants the best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, +charging 15 frs. per day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, +5 frs. additional. The house is situated on an eminence rising from +the Corniche road, at the entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands +a splendid sea view, has handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its +fish dinners and Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly +passing it. This establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants +along the Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which +is kept a supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called <a name = +"bouillabaisse" id = "bouillabaisse"><b>Bouillabaisse</b></a>, +a kind of fish soup, which, like most national +dishes—plum-pudding, puchero, haggis, etc.—admits of +considerable latitude in the preparation. The essentials are—whole +rascasses and chapons (scorpion fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a +liquor mixed with a little of the best olive oil, and flavoured with +tender savoury herbs. An extra good Bouillabaisse should include also +crayfish, a few mussels, and some pieces of any first-class fish, +such as the bass.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Palais de Longchamp.</span></p> + +<p>Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking +<span class = "pagenum">114</span> +<a name = "page114" id = "page114"> </a> +<!-- png 153 --> +a short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles, +enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2 +sous. <a name = "marseilles_longchamp" id = +"marseilles_longchamp"><b>The Palais de Longchamp</b></a>, which cost +£165,000, consists of two rectangular wings, united by a semicircular +colonnade of Ionic volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a +richly-sculptured massive archway, an inscription records that the great +undertaking of bringing the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun +on the 15th November 1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in +the reign of Louis Philippe I. Another records that the palace was +commenced in the reign of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and +finished on the 15th August 1869. From a group of colossal bulls under +the colonnade gushes a copious stream of water, which in its descent +makes a cascade of 90 ft. in three stages. The wing to the right, +standing with the face to the palace, contains the Natural History +Museum; and the other, the picture and sculpture galleries.</p> + +<p>All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large +pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room +left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best +pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:—F. Bol, +d. 1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, +d. 1671, portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah +inebriated; Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; +Gongo, d. 1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, +d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d. 1554, portrait; Loo, +d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713, Cardinal Cibo; +Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766, Mme. de +Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino, +d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; +F. Porbus, d. 1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; +Rembrandt, d. 1669, A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, +The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d. 1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, +d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640, Wild-boar Hunt; +Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588, Venetian +princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the right +is the “<b>École Provençal</b>,” containing, among other +paintings—Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The +Milkmaid, and portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, +d. 1849, “La Vierge Consolatrice”; P. Puget, Madonna. In the +left room are, among others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman +feeding Child.</p> + +<p>The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the +conchological division and the collection of ammonites.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">115</span> +<a name = "page115" id = "page115"> </a> +<!-- png 154 --> + +<p>From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the +palace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the +sea, supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See +under <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a>, p. 77.) At this part of +the hill is one of the entrances to the Zoological Gardens; free on +Sundays, when they are crowded with people. Near the entrance is the +<b>Observatory</b>, one of the most important in France.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Hôtel de Ville. La Consigne.</span></p> + +<p>The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is +protected on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. +Its approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant +is on the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from +Marseilles. The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, +covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned +trading-vessels, with their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour +called emphatically the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of +the “Port” extends eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street +La Cannebière, so called from the rope-walks, whose site it now +occupies. At nearly the middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the +<a name = "marseilles_hotel_ville" id = "marseilles_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel +de Ville</b></a> (1 in plan), built in the 17th cent., and adorned +with sculpture by Puget, born at Marseilles; while at the western +extremity of the same side, next Fort St. Jean, is a low building called +La Consigne, or Health Office. Over the chimney-piece in the +council-room of the <a name = "marseilles_consigne" id = +"marseilles_consigne">Consigne</a> is a beautiful relief in white marble +by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To the right is a picture by +Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce administering the sacrament to the +plague-stricken inhabitants of Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch +before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice +returning from Constantinople with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la +République.” Opposite the fireplace, “The cholera on board the +Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose +assisting to bury those who had died of the plague.” Between them is a +Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two windows is a portrait of Bishop +Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne is the pier of the ferry-boats. +Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town infirmary, and beyond it, on a +terrace 30 ft. above the quay of Joliette, +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "marseilles_cathedral" id = +"marseilles_cathedral"> +Marseilles: Cathedral.<br> +Arc de Triomphe.</a></span> +the <b>Cathedral</b>, a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., +and 165 ft. from E. to W. at the transept; built of gray Florentine +stone alternating with a whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of +Arles. The nave is 52 ft. wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome +is 196 ft. high. Behind the cathedral are the Episcopal palace +<span class = "pagenum">116</span> +<a name = "page116" id = "page116"> </a> +<!-- png 155 --> +(5 in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charité (7). +Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the <a name = +"marseilles_arc_triomphe" id = "marseilles_arc_triomphe"><b>Arc de +Triomphe</b></a>, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced +on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc +d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58 +ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the +battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar +statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz. +Over the arch is the inscription— “<i>A la République</i>.” From +the arch a steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, +with at the N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le +souvenir de sa charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola +Marseille” in 1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the <a href = +"#marseilles_trams">Bonneveine tram</a> (p. 113) and the Alcazar +Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Bourse.</span></p> + +<p>The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and +farther S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours +are, to the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the +R. Noailles, the two best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port +end of the former is the <a name = "marseilles_bourse" id = +"marseilles_bourse"><b>Bourse</b></a> (marked 10 in the plan), +a parallelogramic building, 154 feet broad by 223 long, erected +between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 feet by 94, is ornamented +with mural paintings. In the vestibule are allegorical statues of +Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief representing Marseilles +receiving productions from all parts of the world. On the opposite side +of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the Opera-house, the Palais de +Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The Palais de Justice, built +in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment and peristyle +bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc. +The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded by 16 columns +of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the Renaissance +style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues and +bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier d’honneur, +communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with mural +paintings.</p> + +<p>From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of <b>Notre +Dame de la Garde</b>, one of the principal sights, and the most +prominent object in Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right +by the Cours Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de +Colline, and then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On +descending be careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar +under a canopy on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length +of the Plateau +<span class = "pagenum">117</span> +<a name = "page117" id = "page117"> </a> +<!-- png 156 --> +de la Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain +to the terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The +church is shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, +can always be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a +gilded image of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to +the head. The view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the +whole of Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 +ft.; to the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it +Mont Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau +and Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is +the little <a href = "#island_if">island of If</a> (p. 118). Off +Cape Croisette are the islands of Maïre and Peirot. The road down the +little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol) leads to the Corniche.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Notre Dame de la Garde.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "marseilles_notre_dame" id = +"marseilles_notre_dame"> +NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.</a></h5> + +<p>Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an +upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The +interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters +and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar +in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is +about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and +made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the +face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14 +lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of +silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and +with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous +interposition was displayed.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: Lycée. Saint Victor.</span></p> + +<p>From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets +ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the +Cours Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the <a name = +"marseilles_lycee" id = "marseilles_lycee"><b>Lycée</b></a> or head +grammar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et +l’École des Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the +Boulevard du Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor +are the class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection +of medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the +medals are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. +and 1300 manuscripts.</p> + +<p>At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and +the Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in +Marseilles, <a name = "marseilles_st_victor" id = +"marseilles_st_victor"><b>Saint Victor</b></a>, all that remains of one +of the most famous +<span class = "pagenum">118</span> +<a name = "page118" id = "page118"> </a> +<!-- png 157 --> +monasteries in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained +deacon of the church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of +St. Victor resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal +and uncouth square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been +added by Pope Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over +the entrance door under these towers is a rude representation of St. +George and the dragon. The upper church dates only from the beginning of +the 13th cent. Near the sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps +leads down to the original church, a large and spacious crypt. Of +this crypt the most ancient part is the small chapel shut off from the +rest, with several tombs hewn in the rock. Among those buried here were +St. Victor, and, according to the tradition of the place, Lazarus also, +who is said to have died at Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this +chapel is marred by a modern altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it +is said, by Puget. The shaft of one of the columns has a sculptured rope +coiled round it. Pieces of ornamental sculpture are seen at different +parts of the crypt, and remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the +sanctuary of a miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have +been carved by Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is +called Notre Dame de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds +of votaries from the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the +sarcophagi have been removed to the museum in the <a href = +"#marseilles_borely">Château Borély</a> (p. 113). At the foot of +the eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the +Bassin de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four +minutes to the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is +Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Island of If.</span></p> + +<p><i>Excursions.</i>—The principal excursion from Marseilles is +to the <a name = "island_if" id = "island_if"><b>Island of If</b></a>, +with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state +prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port. +They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the +price before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, +whence a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the +entrance to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. +A man conducts visitors over the castle, of which the most +interesting parts are the cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he +was thrown over into the sea.</p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_to_martigues" id = +"marseilles_to_martigues">Marseilles to Martigues</a>, 24 m. N.W. by +rail (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map on +p. 66</a>). At Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. +W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the +canal to <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">Arles</a> +<span class = "pagenum">119</span> +<a name = "page119" id = "page119"> </a> +<!-- png 158 --> +(see p. 76). After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lestaque">L’Estaque</a> (see +p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot +of a wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn +close to the station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main +line, and the Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an +omnibus awaits passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake +Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake +Marignane is separated from Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The +train after passing Marignane station arrives at the station for +Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the hills.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Martigues.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "martigues" id = "martigues"><b>Les Martigues</b></a>, pop. +10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du Cours, and omnibus for +Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of the outlet from Lake +Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all connected by bridges. +The railway station, the hotel, and a large part of the town are on the +E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of the 3 islets are the +Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the middle one is the Hôtel +de Ville; and on the third and largest are the hospital and the parish +church with sculptured portals. On the N. side of the canal is the part +of the town called Ferrières, containing the harbour and the reservoirs +for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the principal industry of the +inhabitants.</p> + +<p>There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The +infirmary (Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can +accommodate 750 patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains +generally from 600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near +the Prado is the Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marseilles_industries" id = +"marseilles_industries"> +<span class = "headnote">Marseilles: Industries. +Commerce.</span></a></p> + +<p>The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories, +with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at +£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and +chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000 +tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ +2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated +acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at +£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of +ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast +furnaces of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and +yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for +the construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch +of iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is +a great centre for the extraction of silver from +<span class = "pagenum">120</span> +<a name = "page120" id = "page120"> </a> +<!-- png 159 --> +lead ore; 16,000 tons of lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated +annually.</p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_commerce" id = +"marseilles_commerce"><i>Commerce.</i></a>—The chief imports in +point of bulk are cereals from the Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but +the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4,000,000 yearly, comes from +Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and Japan. Then follow metals, ores, +timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect +of value are silk, woollen and cotton fabrics, refined sugars, wines and +spirits; those of greatest bulk are cereals in the form of flour, +building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and +crystal.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marseilles: History.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_history" id = +"marseilles_history"><i>History.</i></a>—The Greek colony of +Massalia (in Latin, <i>Massilia</i>) was founded by the enterprising +mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600 <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span> After the ravages of successive streams of +invaders it was repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of +its viscounts. In 1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed +into a republic, governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the +remainder of the Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, +the higher town was governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the +creek of La Joliette. The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of +St. Victor, and owned the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, +situated between the two, retained the old harbour, and was the most +powerful of the three divisions. The period of the Crusades brought +great prosperity to Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence. +Louis XIV. came in person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under +the Fronde. He took the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas +constructed. Marseilles repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an +epidemic raged from May 1720 to May 1721 with a severity for which it is +almost impossible to find a parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, +and others immortalised themselves by their courage and devotion.</p> + +<p>During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the +aristocracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror +they rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by +General Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to +their maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against +Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a +considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the +Suez Canal.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +The Marseillaise.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "marseillaise" id = "marseillaise"><i>The +Marseillaise.</i></a>—The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise” +was composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on +<span class = "pagenum">121</span> +<a name = "page121" id = "page121"> </a> +<!-- png 160 --> +the 10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, +6¼ m. S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th +April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, +Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and +during dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to +compose a war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired +to his room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to +bed. In the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “<i>Tenez, +voilá ce que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas +trop bon.</i>” “<i>Que dites vous mon ami?</i>” said Dietrich, after +casting his eye over the MS.; “<i>vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre.</i>” +The mayor’s wife having tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the +theatre were engaged to perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, +when such was the enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off +with nearly 1000 instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the +air “Le Chant de guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a +detachment of volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of +Barbaroux, and as they were in the habit of singing this song both on +their march and in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des +Marseillais.” Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the +scaffold June 1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the +fall of the monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">122</span> +<a name = "page122" id = "page122"> </a> +<!-- png 161 --> +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "marseilles_to_menton" id = +"marseilles_to_menton"> +MARSEILLES TO MENTON.</a></h4> + +<p class = "center smallcaps">By Hyères, Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. 155 +Miles.</p> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +See Maps, <a href = "#map113">pages 113</a>, <a href = +"#map155">155</a>, and <a href = "#map185">185</a>.</p> + + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles to">155</span> +<b>MARSEILLES.</b> See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the +“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon, +traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by +mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream +Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles +canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the +chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all +situated at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to +October, a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the +cold mineral baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by +omnibus from Marseilles. The bathing establishment is about ¼ m. +from the village, in an undulating hollow, among plane trees, olives, +and vines. The water is cold, and contains iron and iodine, with a great +deal of sulphur. It is very effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the +liver. The establishment is quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to +9 frs. per day.</p> + +<p>10½ m. from Marseilles is <a name = "aubagne" id = +"aubagne"><b>Aubagne</b></a>, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus +daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at +Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with +coal-mines and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where +take rail.</p> + +<p>After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, +if a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant +fishing village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont +Gardiole (to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille +(to the east), culminating point 1365 ft. <i>Inn:</i> Hotel and Pension +Liautaud. An omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. +A very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a +forest of pines on the sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, +6½ m. east by this road, and 23 m. from Marseilles by rail. +The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from the town, but an omnibus +awaits passengers. <i>Inn:</i> H. de l’Univers, at the head of a +well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong stone jetties. At +the western side of the little bay is a curious promontory, the Bec de +l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of three lofty rocks in a +row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the point is the +<span class = "pagenum">123</span> +<a name = "page123" id = "page123"> </a> +<!-- png 163 --> +small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing is carried +on in <a name = "la_ciotat" id = "la_ciotat"><b>La Ciotat</b></a>; but +the main business of the place is derived from the great shipbuilding +yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly +and indirectly the whole town.</p> + +<p>4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village +of St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for +Bandol, a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small +islands. The industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in +fields on the plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.</p> + +<p>36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where +omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on +the Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, <i>Inn:</i> Trotobas; +situated a short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by +limestone cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to +each other as to form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the +brigand Gaspard de Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and +Bandol is the culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, +are sent all over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. +Yellow is the natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed +or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges +and lemons grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place +of Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset, +pop. 3000. <i>Inn:</i> France.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Seyne. Six Fours.</span></p> + +<p>38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is <a name = +"la_seyne" id = "la_seyne"><b>La Seyne</b></a> station. An omnibus +awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de la Méditerranée, +situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which two ports there is +constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is the office of the +omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot of Fort +Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus returns by +Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La Seyne, from +which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the new fort +and what remains of the ancient village of <a name = "six_fours" id = +"six_fours"><b>Six Fours</b></a>, once a town of importance. The greater +part of the crumbling walls has been cleared away, and in their stead a +strong fort has been built, which occupies the entire summit of the +hill. The old church still remains, of which the earliest part, 6th +cent., is at the entrance extending east and west, and was originally +the whole building. To the right hand are two stone altars (6th cent.), +with windows behind them to give light to the officiating priest, who at +that time said mass with his face to the audience. The nave, extending +<span class = "pagenum">124</span> +<a name = "page124" id = "page124"> </a> +<!-- png 164 --> +N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It contains a Madonna by Puget, +and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. Under the church is a large +cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales de Six Fours,” the chapel +or house where Mary, sent by her brother Lazarus, told the inhabitants +about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt of <a href = "#st_maximin">St. +Maximin</a> (p. 143).</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +MARSEILLES TO CANNES.</p> + +<!-- png 162 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 123</span> +[West End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br> +[East End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map163">map, +page 163</a>.</i><br> +<i>For continuation westwards see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br> +<a name = "map123" id = "map123" href = "images/map123.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map123thumb.png" width = "484" height = "232" +alt = "see caption"></a><br> +<i>For Esteral Mountains see <a href = "#map146">map, page 146</a>,<br> +and for continuation eastwards see <a href = "#map163">map, page +163</a>.</i><br> +<i>See Environs of Toulon, <a href = "#map129">page 129</a>.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "toulon" id = "toulon"> +TOULON.</a></h5> + +<p>42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from +Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from +Cannes, 98½ m. S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is +<b>Toulon</b>, pop. 71,000 (see maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a> +and <a href = "#map129">129</a>). <i>Hotels:</i> near the station, the +Grand Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and +near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and +the Louvre; in the <a name = "toulon_place_puget" id = +"toulon_place_puget">Place Puget</a> is the Nord, and at No. 15 an +office where carriages can be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. +From this “Place” start the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the +road; also omnibuses for Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and +scallop shells on the fountain in the centre of the “Place” are by +Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the H. Place d’Armes, fronting the +Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band plays on Sundays.</p> + +<p>The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, +La Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières, +Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start +from the <a name = "toulon_place_italie" id = +"toulon_place_italie">Place d’Italie</a> at the east end of Toulon. In +this “Place” are the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and +H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places see maps, <a href = +"#map123">pp. 123</a> and <a href = "#map129">129</a>.) In the Place +Puget are several cheap restaurants. The best restaurants are on the +quay of the port.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon: The Quai du Port.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "toulon_quai_port" id = "toulon_quai_port"><b>The Quai du +Port.</b></a>—The bronze statue on this quay, representing +Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front +of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint +Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is +the berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the +hulk of the famous <i>Belle Poule</i>, covered with a roof of sloping +planks. This was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from +St. Helena and deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December +1840. The Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of +the expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, +with whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and +Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of +Napoleon’s adherents. On the +<span class = "pagenum">125</span> +<a name = "page125" id = "page125"> </a> +<!-- png 165 --> +16th October the coffin was opened, when the body was found in an +excellent state of preservation. On that same day the remains were +embarked on board the <i>Belle Poule</i>, and on the 18th the ship set +sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where the body was +transferred to the steamboat <i>Normandie</i>, which conveyed it up the +Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent car.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon: Cab Fares. The Arsenals.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "toulon_cabs" id = "toulon_cabs"><i>Cab +fares.</i></a>—The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.</p> + +<p>The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising +gradually from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east +and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour +on either side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort +Croix and large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and +immediately behind it <a name = "mont_coudon_2" id = "mont_coudon_2">Mt. +Coudon</a>, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and behind it +Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort; while from +the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort Malbousquet. +Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the last held by +the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and most secure +roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port Marchand +and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then +follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all +communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by +well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the +<a name = "toulon_arsenal" id = "toulon_arsenal">arsenals</a> and the +establishments connected with them, which are on a scale of almost +unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and employing above 10,000 +men. Near the west end of the Port a large gateway with marble columns +forms the entrance into the “Arsenal Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and +containing a general storehouse, 100 forge fires, two covered +building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an armoury with at the +entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by Puget. Adjoining is the +Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles along the bay towards La +Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and ship-equipment departments.</p> + +<p>Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and +sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the +characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound, +from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where +gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The +most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf +fronting the town-dock is called. As long as +<span class = "pagenum">126</span> +<a name = "page126" id = "page126"> </a> +<!-- png 166 --> +the sun is above the horizon it shines there, consequently during the +cold season it is crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, +unfortunately, are poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are +good cafés and restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the +town and neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in +November 1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human +life recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad +with vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing +even those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, +amidst the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and +imploring cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and +embarking some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military +genius the discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted +himself to the utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon: Town Hall.</span></p> + +<p>Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the <a name = +"toulon_town_hall" id = "toulon_town_hall"><b>Town Hall</b></a>, adorned +with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the statue +representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is the +corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of nearly +square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the smallest. +The small side has three windows in each row, and the large four, the +windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in couples. On +the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under the eaves a +projecting dentil cornice.</p> + +<p>The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is +the Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with +immense lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends +round to the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a +fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow +five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls +fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.) +At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts +for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior +contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to +the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and +Marguerite Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents +Mary announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the +“conceived without sin.”</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon: Sainte-Marie-Majeure.</span></p> + +<p>The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between +houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of <a name = +"toulon_cathedral" id = +"toulon_cathedral"><b>Sainte-Marie-Majeure</b></a>, commenced in the +11th cent., and finished in the 18th. +<span class = "pagenum">127</span> +<a name = "page127" id = "page127"> </a> +<!-- png 167 --> +The exterior is unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft +over the entrance is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar +in the chapel to the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. +The tabernacle and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to +have executed also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel +representing the apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the +arch of the chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by +Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church.</p> + +<p>All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are +those which cross to <a href = "#la_seyne">La Seyne</a> (p. 123). +The steamers for the Iles d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from +this wharf. The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, +calling first at Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort +Aiguillette to the north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter +being easily recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses +are situated towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of +Fort Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty +villas in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind +Tamaris rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent +carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of +the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier, +and La Seyne. +<span class = "headnote float"> +St. Mandrier.</span> +The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the roads or Rade du +Lazaret and enters the small bay of <a name = "st_mandrier" id = +"st_mandrier"><b>St. Mandrier</b></a>. At the landing-place is a +comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. Round the point, in a +warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200 +beds, one of the most important establishments of this kind in France. +It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a handsome chapel, and a +great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. Adjoining is a large and +well-sheltered garden with orange trees. Visitors are readily admitted. +In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the Hôpital de la Marine, +exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, it is hardly +sufficiently ventilated.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Toulon: Mont Faron.</span></p> + +<p>One of the most interesting walks is to the top of <a name = +"mont_faron" id = "mont_faron"><b>Mont Faron</b></a>, 1792 feet above +the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take the +broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the +railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the +town by the Port of Ste. Anne—the name is on the gateway. From +this the real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle +ascent and continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of +the town and the bay. When not far from +<span class = "pagenum">128</span> +<a name = "page128" id = "page128"> </a> +<!-- png 168 --> +the summit three roads meet. The road to the left goes to the barracks +and to the top. The nearly level road to the right goes to Fort Faron, +and the steep road to the left to Fort de la Croix on a rock above Fort +Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette side of the mountain. The +summit consists of a stony tableland, from which rise knolls of various +elevations. It can be done in a carriage.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Valette. Mont Coudon. Cap Brun.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "toulon_omnibus" id = "toulon_omnibus"><i>Toulon +Omnibuses.</i></a>—Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best +are to <a href = "#hyeres"><b>Hyères</b></a> (p. 133) by La +Valette, and to the village of <a name = "dardenne" id = +"dardenne"><b>Dardenne</b></a>, on a stream in the picturesque valley +between Mont Faron on the right or S. side and the steep Tourris +mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. As far as the +omnibus goes the road is good. The road eastwards through the valley +leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le +Revest, on the top of an eminence commanding a good view of the ravine +of the Dardenne. The village of <a name = "la_valette" id = +"la_valette"><b>La Valette</b></a>, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from +Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by the omnibus. The carving on the church +door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of +Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent +is made of <a name = "mont_coudon" id = "mont_coudon"><b>Mt. +Coudon</b></a>, 2305 ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are +grand views in all directions. I have sought for them a great deal, +and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the +graceful yet bold indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.” +—<i>George Sand.</i> A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but +unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, farther progress is +stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent +from the narrow lane opposite the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high +road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea +views disclose themselves.</p> + +<p>The next best omnibus-drives are to <a name = "cap_brun" id = +"cap_brun"><b>Cap Brun</b></a> and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the +coast, and to <a name = "le_pradet" id = "le_pradet"><b>Le +Pradet</b></a>, a village N.E. from Ste. Marguerite, on the road to +Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the Place d’Italie. Although +this road skirts the coast, very little of it is seen on account of +hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on +cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite +is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among +villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from +a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village a little to the S. of +La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, +forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir +Charles Dilke.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">129</span> +<a name = "page129" id = "page129"> </a> +<!-- png 170 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mourillon.</span></p> + +<p>The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of <a name = "mourillon" id = +"mourillon"><b>Mourillon</b></a>, 3½ m. E., behind Fort La Malgue +or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours Lafayette.</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">environs of<br> +TOULON & HYÈRES</span></p> + +<!-- png 169 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 129</span> +<a name = "map129" id = "map129" href = "images/map129.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map129thumb.png" width = "479" height = "224" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> +</div> + +<p><a name = "toulon_diligences" id = "toulon_diligences"><i>Diligence +Drives.</i></a>—<b>Toulon to Meounes</b>, 19¼ m. N. by +diligence from the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see +<a href = "#map129">map, p. <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘117’">129</ins></a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Belgentier. Meounes.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and +Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and +10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The +diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from +Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the same +way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the beautiful +part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and +precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large +olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry +trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of +the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. +5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from Toulon, is <a name = +"belgentier" id = "belgentier"><b>Belgentier</b></a> (pronounced +Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here. +The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the +right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, +after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best +headquarters in the valley, <a name = "meounes" id = +"meounes"><b>Meounes</b></a>, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent +of the Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from +Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E. from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from +Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp, 5 m. S. from +Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which +is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see <a href = "#map123">map, +p. 123</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the +village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the +words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of +sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is a +great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern +and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going +round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of +1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft. +Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations, +occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which +traverse this region are excessively stony.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montrieux.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian +Monastery of <a name = "montrieux" id = "montrieux"><b>Montrieux</b></a> +(pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. above the sea. To go to it +descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a bridge and first road +right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two; take +the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily +situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It +was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the +house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In +1845 the building was repurchased, +<span class = "pagenum">130</span> +<a name = "page130" id = "page130"> </a> +<!-- png 171 --> +along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars +from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The +Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their +rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same +room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have +each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps +and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes +d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le +prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même le +premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses ou aux +tromperies des femmes.” A nearer but very stony path, commencing +opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane, +the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the Toulon coach to +Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and +the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles +3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For <a href = +"#brignoles">Brignoles</a>, see p. 142.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Crau. Cuers. Pierrefeu. Collobrières.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "toulon_to_collobrieres" id = +"toulon_to_collobrieres"><b>Toulon to Collobrières.</b></a>—From +the Place d’Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E. +by E., passing through La Valette 3¼ m., La Garde with its castle +5 m., and <a name = "la_crau" id = "la_crau"><b>La Crau</b></a> +7½ m. <i>Inn:</i> H. de France. Beyond the inn are the post +and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, +the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs +between Hyères and La Crau.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from +Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace, +a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds +to Collobrières, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ +frs.; time, 4½ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence +at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span>; or take the rail to <a name = "cuers" id = +"cuers"><b>Cuers</b></a> station, and then the courrier, which leaves +Toulon every forenoon for Collobrières, passing through <a href = +"#pierrefeu">Pierrefeu</a> (p. 142).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less +undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The +Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is crossed a few +yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes +a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the principal +affluent of the Gapeau. <a name = "pierrefeu" id = +"pierrefeu"><b>Pierrefeu</b></a>, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a +hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From +the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu +the coach ascends the valley of the Réal-Collobrier to <a name = +"collobrieres" id = "collobrieres"><b>Collobrières</b></a>, pop. 3600, +on an eminence rising from the stream. <i>Inn:</i> H. de Notre +Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the +courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hôtel de +Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old +church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower +part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. +On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of +<span class = "pagenum">131</span> +<a name = "page131" id = "page131"> </a> +<!-- png 172 --> +chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the +opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, +wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the principal +industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin +ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes +straw-coloured.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to +Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and +Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the +chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Isles d’Or.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "iles_dor" id = "iles_dor"> +The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare +2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and +back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les +Salins of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and +Port-Cros.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of +the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the +massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to +the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La +Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and +southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of +St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen +distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the +steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of +<a href = "#giens">Giens</a> (see p. 140, and <a href = "#map123">map, +p. 123</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Porquerolles.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "porquerolles" id = "porquerolles"><b>Porquerolles</b></a>, +pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. +The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is +low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in +vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is +nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while +the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The +climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. +Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in +the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum, +Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista +linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side +of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins. +The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor +alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church, the +museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two +inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above +the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small +buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +There are three main roads in the island—the road by the N. coast +westward is called the <b>Chemin du Langoustier</b>, the road by the N. +coast eastward the <b>Chemin des Mèdes</b>, and the road up the centre +of the island, from N. to S., the <b>Chemin au Phare</b>. This last road +<span class = "pagenum">132</span> +<a name = "page132" id = "page132"> </a> +<!-- png 173 --> +commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the +lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 +ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps, +is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin +du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively +open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the +left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient +structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda +manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, +a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the +sea.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most +fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes +round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479 +ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a +perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, +of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, +is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the +commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it +led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called +Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path +leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft. +high.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Port-Cros. Port Man. Levant.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "port_cros" id = "port_cros"><b>Port-Cros.</b></a>—11½ +m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. +from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a +small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends +from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s +house to <a name = "port_man" id = "port_man"><b>Port Man</b></a> at the +eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded +ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; +it is 2½ m. from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and +contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are +similar—mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous +little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had +at all times.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more +sterile island of the <a name = "levant" id = +"levant"><b>Levant</b></a>, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to +S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the +Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the +sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "toulon_to_hyeres" id = +"toulon_to_hyeres"> +Toulon to Hyères.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Toulon to Hyères.</b>—Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, +11 m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times +daily from the Place Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by +train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a +direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, +where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail +from Toulon.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">133</span> +<a name = "page133" id = "page133"> </a> +<!-- png 174 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères. Hotels.</span></p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "hyeres" id = "hyeres"> +HYÈRES,</a></h5> + +<p>pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the +nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as +Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but +none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety +of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches. +The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is +¾ m. S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage.</p> + +<p><a name = "hyeres_hotels" id = +"hyeres_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—At the west of the town are the +Hôtel des Palmiers, below the Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with +garden off the main road; the H. Continental, on an eminence above +the Iles d’Or. These three are first-class houses, and charge per day +from 15 to 20 frs., including bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three +meals with coffee or tea in the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the +Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the main street are the Ambassadeurs and +the Europe, both from 10 to 12 frs., frequented chiefly by those who +come only for a few days. At the east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the +H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On opposite side, and well situated for +the sun, is the second-class house, the H. Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10 +frs. Near it, but not well situated, is the Méditerranée, third-class. +The principal hotel on the east side of Hyères is the H. Orient, 10 +to 13 frs., a comfortable and old-established house, opposite the +public gardens. Farther east, and off the high road to St. Tropez, is +the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. Down by one of the roads to the sea +is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13 frs., in a sunny situation. About +1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered +nook overlooking one of the warmest and most favoured valleys of the +Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12 +frs., retired and comfortable, and frequented chiefly by English. As it +is near the sea, in a forest of pines and cork oaks, it combines the +advantages of Arcachon with those of Hyères. All the above prices +include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, +with wine to both. Abundance of furnished apartments and villas to let. +In the Place des Palmiers are a French and an English bank. Both +exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple Protestant, and a +little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal chapel is in the +Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west end of the +town.</p> + +<p>There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, +which take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations +<span class = "pagenum">134</span> +<a name = "page134" id = "page134"> </a> +<!-- png 175 --> +on the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large +gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.</p> + +<p><a name = "hyeres_cabs" id = "hyeres_cabs"><i>Cab +fares.</i></a>—Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and +2 horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères: Drives.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "hyeres_drives" id = +"hyeres_drives"><i>Drives.</i></a>—A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a +coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., +but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to +settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and +back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 +horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of +Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive, +forming a good day’s excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux, +18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont (a railway station), and +Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For <a href = +"#belgentier">description</a>, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 +frs. there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the +Fort of Brégançon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux +Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north +towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) +amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of +the plain called La Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château +de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). +A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux +of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon; and, on the western point of Cap +Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For <a href = +"#bormes">Bormes</a>, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to +Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that +ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the +Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes +by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive +trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. +Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may +be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges +of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, +as some parts of the roads are not good.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères: Coaches.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "hyeres_coaches" id = +"hyeres_coaches"><i>Coaches.</i></a>—From the Place de la Rade +start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins +4 m. E., for <a href = "#la_crau">La Crau</a> 4½ m. N. (see +p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails +to St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du +Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette +(see maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a> and <a href = +"#map129">129</a>).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">135</span> +<a name = "page135" id = "page135"> </a> +<!-- png 176 --> +<p><b>Hyères proper</b> is a little dirty town of narrow streets, +running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all +the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets +and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain, +2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded +Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of +the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent +protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road, +extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in +its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the +steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist. +At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, +and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these +two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the +street R. Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Massillon, +containing the fish-market, a bust of Massillon, and the Maison des +Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de Ville. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "massillon" id = "massillon"> +Massillon.</a></span> +Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the left a +dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No. +7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was +born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without +gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at +Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV. +that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court— “Father, +I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with +them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The +language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and +just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first +time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew +vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose +from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which +still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the +article “Eloquence” in the <i>Encyclopédie</i> as an example presenting +“<i>la figure la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence +qu’on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes</i>.” His father, who +spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from +father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères: St. Paul. St. Louis.</span></p> + +<p>Above the “Place” is the church of <a name = "hyeres_st_paul" id = +"hyeres_st_paul"><b>St. Paul</b></a>, 12th cent., on a terrace +commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar +represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to +the church is an ancient baptismal font.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">136</span> +<a name = "page136" id = "page136"> </a> +<!-- png 177 --> +<p>At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, +is the church of <a name = "hyeres_st_louis" id = +"hyeres_st_louis"><b>St. Louis</b></a>, built in the 12th cent. in the +Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the +entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned +arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls +display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement +of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are +set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and +remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen +and their 3 children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on +the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand +de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. +Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain +in this square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou +and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. +In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which +event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to +the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he +dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the +western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in +1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, +and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the +Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous +nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the +“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared +for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These +gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, +and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères: Costebelle.</span></p> + +<p>From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the +<a name = "hyeres_costebelle" id = +"hyeres_costebelle"><b>Costebelle</b></a>, about 2½ m. from N.E. to +S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in +little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end +of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel +of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely +views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are +old olive trees.</span></p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Hyères: Château.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "hyeres_chateau" id = "hyeres_chateau"> +THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES.</a></h5> + +<p>On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +<b>Château of Hyères</b>, which should be visited as early as possible, +for the sake +<span class = "pagenum">137</span> +<a name = "page137" id = "page137"> </a> +<!-- png 178 --> +of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the +Hôtel de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the +right, as the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the +wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been +founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it +is called <i>Castrum aræarum</i> or <i>aræis</i>, “air-castle.” +Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, +still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the +Hôtel des Iles d’Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful. +Immediately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in +bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded +with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. +Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war +moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are +the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. +Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is <a href = +"#porquerolles">Porquerolles</a> (p. 131), the largest of the +islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. +long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the +little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d’Hyères, and the +Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from +Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been +shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain, +are <a href = "#mont_coudon_2">Mt. Coudon</a>, 2305 ft. (see +p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon. +Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the +Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this fort, northwards by +the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and Léoubes. The highest peak +of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre +Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, <a href = "#map123">pp. 123</a> and +<a href = "#map129">129</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont Fenouillet.</span></p> + +<p>Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette +group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the +western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, +commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, +633 ft., on which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the +execution of malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill +above the east end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new +cemeteries, is a favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before +descending from the castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.</p> + +<p><a name = "mt_fenouillet" id = "mt_fenouillet"><b>Excursion to Mont +Fenouillet.</b></a>—Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path +to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of +<span class = "pagenum">138</span> +<a name = "page138" id = "page138"> </a> +<!-- png 179 --> +the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the +left, called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of +Hyères, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads +to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, +and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the +<i>Arbutus unedo</i>, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road +at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the +valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small +chapel visited by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross +(3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths +lead from it down to the road between Hyères and Toulon.</p> + +<p><a name = "hyeres_oiseaux" id = "hyeres_oiseaux"><b>Excursion to the +Montagnes des Oiseaux.</b></a>—The best way is to take the path +commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by +the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it +is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the <i>Quercus +coccifera</i>. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but +on the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of +Hyères on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +The Trou des Fées.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "trou_fees" id = "trou_fees"><b>The Trou des +Fées.</b></a>—On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E. +side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The +entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, +covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it +lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path +leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down +by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle +road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The +other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly +2 m. S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 +horse-power. This water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. +E., through the gravelly soil of the plain.</p> + +<p>To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and +confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble +in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the +lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound +heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at +such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the +swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure +mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the +walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cork-cutting.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the +Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences +<span class = "pagenum">139</span> +<a name = "page139" id = "page139"> </a> +<!-- png 180 --> +in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a +curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees +become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state, +and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12° +Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The cold +of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the trunks +and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which +sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing +round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella +pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or <a name += "hyeres_cork" id = "hyeres_cork"><i>Quercus suber</i></a>, generally +accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the <i>Quercus +coccifera</i>. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the +stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is +removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen +years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is +stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, +and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every +tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour. +A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty +years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the +mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns +on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "hyeres_caterpillar" id = +"hyeres_caterpillar"> +Processional Caterpillar.<br> +Pipes.</a></span> +The curious caterpillar of the Moth, <i>Bombyx processionaria</i>, feeds +on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made +of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly +attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are +found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed +during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession, +following each other with great precision. On the summits of the Maures, +and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath <i>Erica +arborea</i>, from whose roots <a name = "hyeres_pipes" id = +"hyeres_pipes">pipes</a> are made. The digging up and the preparing of +these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry +in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes, +briar being a corruption of the French word <i>bruyère</i>, signifying +heath.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, +and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries, +peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain +between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The +gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the +surface, there is always abundance of water.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "hyeres_butterflies" id = +"hyeres_butterflies"> +<span class = "headnote">Butterflies.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the +Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus +Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the +beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most +abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September, +many of the latter generation living through the winter. Thais +Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de +Provence), Polyommatus +<span class = "pagenum">140</span> +<a name = "page140" id = "page140"> </a> +<!-- png 181 --> +Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A little +later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the +Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, the A. Niobe, the +A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge Psyche, +the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the +S. Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the +S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and the S. Bathseba, all common +more or less throughout the summer.” —<i>W. A. Powell of the +English Pharmacy of Hyères.</i></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Climate of Hyères.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "hyeres_climate" id = +"hyeres_climate"><b>Climate.</b></a>—Hyères is especially fitted +for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened +constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all +of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as +it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require +gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its +climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable +place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require +the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, +and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on +the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for +the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the +more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.” +—<i>Dr. Edwin Lee.</i> The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., +and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in +England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; +and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not +agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The +climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and +Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young +persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either +predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that +disease.”</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans">THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.</h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m. +south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La +Pauline station is <a href = "#mont_coudon">Mont Coudon</a> (see +p. 128, and <a href = "#map129">map p. 129</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "giens" id = "giens"> +<span class = "headnote">Giens. Saltworks. Le Château.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for +<a name = "la_plage" id = "la_plage">La Plage</a>, consisting of some +pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From +the pier the <i>Zephyr</i> sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to +<a href = "#porquerolles">Porquerolles</a> (p. 131). The beach +adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. +At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which +connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The +large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour +Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite +(p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot +and sandy, skirts <a name = "giens_saltworks" id = +"giens_saltworks">large square basin-like marshes</a>, where salt is +made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the +south +<span class = "pagenum">141</span> +<a name = "page141" id = "page141"> </a> +<!-- png 182 --> +end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is +heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on +the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very +fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the +saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the +Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of <a name = +"le_chateau" id = "le_chateau"><b>Le Château</b></a>, with a neat church +and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of +uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of +the two necks.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La +Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of +mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a +house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the +semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 +ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys +covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can +be had on the isthmus.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station +of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Les Salins. Pomponiana.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "les_salins" id = "les_salins"><b>Les Salins</b></a>, 18 m. +from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to +Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It +traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive +groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by +feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind +the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of +sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins +occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value +of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the +fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or +busy season 300 (see <a href = "#map129">map, p. 129</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Coach to Carqueyranne</b>, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. +After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the +commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the +peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost +buried ruins of the Roman naval station of <a name = "pomponiana" id = +"pomponiana"><b>Pomponiana</b></a>, some fine olive trees, and several +villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an +olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, +a small straggling village, from which the little port is about +½ m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon +omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through +the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne +is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., +and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from +Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In +Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and +artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">142</span> +<a name = "page142" id = "page142"> </a> +<!-- png 183 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bormes.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "bormes" id = "bormes"><b>Coach to Bormes</b></a>, 14½ m. E. +from Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les +Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little +village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road. +Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St. +Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes +is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that +long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In +the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good +view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old +churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to +Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the +parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle, +12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied +by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to +the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, +a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. +Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from +Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fishing village on the coast road +from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are +caught in the bay (see <a href = "#map123">map, p. 123</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">49</span> +<span class = "miles to">106</span> +<a name = "la_pauline" id = "la_pauline"><b>LA PAULINE</b></a>, a few +houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont Coudon. Junction with +line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have missed the train +for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café below. From La +Pauline the train arrives at <a name = "sollies_pont" id = +"sollies_pont"><b>Solliès-Pont</b></a>, pop. 3000; <i>Inns:</i> +Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep +hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of +the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of +the hill. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for +<b>Collobrières</b> (see <a href = "#collobrieres">p. 130</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Carnoules.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">63½</span> +<span class = "miles to">91½</span> +<a name = "carnoules" id = "carnoules"><b>CARNOULES.</b></a> <i>Inn:</i> +H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. N.W., on +the line between Marseilles and Aix.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gardanne. Barjols.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "gardanne_to_carnoules" id = +"gardanne_to_carnoules"> +Gardanne to Carnoules.</a></h5> + +<p><a name = "gardanne" id = "gardanne"><b>Gardanne</b></a>, pop. 3100. +H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from Marseilles and +7 m. S. from <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#aix_en_provence">Aix</a> (see p. 77). On this line, +16 m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is +<a name = "brignoles" id = "brignoles"><b>Brignoles</b></a>, pop. 6000, on +the Carami. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather +dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry +trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are +first carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently +pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, +<span class = "pagenum">143</span> +<a name = "page143" id = "page143"> </a> +<!-- png 184 --> +13th cent., is in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, +Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, +now the Sous Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the +church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal +vestments. Diligence daily to <a name = "barjols" id = +"barjols"><b>Barjols</b></a>, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont +d’Or; situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (<a +href = "#barjols_2">p. 167</a>). Diligence also to Toulon by +<a href = "#meounes">Meounes</a> (see p. 129).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Maximin.</span></p> + +<p>On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is <a name = +"st_maximin" id = "st_maximin"><b>St. Maximin</b></a>, 1043 ft. above +the sea, pop. 3400. <i>Inns:</i> H. du Var; France. The church of +this ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards +the end of the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, +1st cent. It has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft. +high, and the aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The +width of the church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. +The interior of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 +piers on each side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large +and fine-toned organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist +Fourcade playing upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the +lovely screen of the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of +Ste. Baume. Few parts of any church present such an admirable +combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a +Flemish monk, Frère Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured +panels, each bearing within a wreath a representation in relief of one +of the incidents in the life of some celebrated member of the order of +St. Dominic. Under them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the +rood-loft, and at the other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The +entrance is by one door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and +spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by +Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and +on the other side, in terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. +Maximin down in the crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at +the east end of the N. aisle consists of a painting on wood by an +Italian artist in 1520. In the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on +each side 8 paintings on panels representing the Passion. Below, on the +table of the altar, is an Entombment. In the second chapel from this is +another reredos in the same style, representing St. Laurent, St. +Anthony, St. Sebastian, and St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like +recess, is a very ancient iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the +pulpit is the entrance into the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th +<span class = "pagenum">144</span> +<a name = "page144" id = "page144"> </a> +<!-- png 185 --> +cents. The sculpture above the sound-board of the pulpit is of one +piece, and represents the Ascension of Mary Magdalene. The undulating +fluting on the panels and the sculpture on the railing are very +graceful. Behind is the stair down to the crypt in which Mary Magdalene +died after having swallowed a consecrated wafer given her by St. +Maximin. Her body was afterwards put into the elaborately-carved +alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of the altar. The marble +sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the Innocents Mary is said +to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite Mary’s is the marble +sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then follow the sarcophagi, +also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella (Mary’s maid) and St. +Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been rifled at the +Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the skull of Mary +Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one of her +armbones. (See also under <a href = "#six_fours">Six Fours</a>, +p. 123.) The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is said to +have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque mountains, partly +in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "mt_bretagne" id = +"mt_bretagne"> +Mont Bretagne. Trets.</a></span> +of which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it, +coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, +5 hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285 +ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See <a href = "#map123">map, +p. 123</a>.) 12 m. W. from St. Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne +is <a name = "trets" id = "trets"><b>Trets</b></a>, pop. 2200; +<i>Inn:</i> France; a dirty town surrounded by its old walls +garnished with square towers. In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but +they are small and unimportant.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">75¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">79¾</span> +<a name = "le_luc" id = "le_luc"><b>LE LUC</b></a> station, 1½ m. from +the town, pop. 3900. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Rousse. Coach daily from the +station by a beautiful road across the Maure mountains to St. Tropez, +26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5 frs. +Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the station, begins +the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts, and firs. On +the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and 12 m. from Luc, is +the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where the horses are +changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of the strongholds +of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is, on an +eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded +streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The +massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the +top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and +occupied till the +<span class = "pagenum">145</span> +<a name = "page145" id = "page145"> </a> +<!-- png 186 --> +middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, and 25½ E. from +Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> Piffard; situated on an +eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from which +they were driven (<a href = "#page187">p. 187</a>), and all the +fortifications destroyed excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. +By the roadside, about half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a +very large fir tree. 32 m. N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc +station is</p> + +<p><a name = "st_tropez" id = "st_tropez"><b>St. Tropez</b></a>, pop. +3300, <i>Inn:</i> Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms, at the +head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the bay. +The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is in +the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast of +the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall +slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no +apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the +high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.” +Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the +hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour, +opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of +the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in +Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The +promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins +of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St. +Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to +Hyères, 32½ m. W.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Draguignan. Lorgues.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">84½</span> +<span class = "miles to">70½</span> +<a name = "les_arcs" id = "les_arcs"><b>LES ARCS</b></a>, pop. 1200, +H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to <a name = "draguignan" id += "draguignan"><b>Draguignan</b></a> on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. From the side of the +H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, on the Bresque. +<i>Inn:</i> H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see <a href = +"#map123">map, p. 123</a>). From Salernes the coach proceeds to +Aups, pop. 2350, on the Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N. +from Salernes. <i>Inn:</i> Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence +to Manosque by <a href = "#riez">Riez</a> (see p. 166). Also +diligence to Brignoles by <a href = "#barjols">Barjols</a> (see +p. 143). From Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, +pop. 1000, situated half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to <a name = +"lorgues" id = "lorgues"><b>Lorgues</b></a>, pop. 3000; <i>Inn:</i> +Bonne Foy; 6 m. W.</p> + +<p>Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, +which attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the +clock-tower, 58 ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and +of the surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and +intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing +<span class = "pagenum">146</span> +<a name = "page146" id = "page146"> </a> +<!-- png 187 --> +thirteen rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. +The Jardin des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the +ancient gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the +principal products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is +a large dolmen composed of one flat stone resting on four similar +stones. The top slab is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others +are each 7 ft. high, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of +markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument +are an oak, a splendid specimen of a “micocoulier” (<i>Celtis +australis</i>), and a juniper, 20 ft. high, of a very great age. The way +to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend the street, and take the first +road left. When within a few yards of the kilomètre stone, indicating 1 +kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the +left, leading into an olive tree plantation (see <a href = +"#map123">map, p. 123</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Frejus. Colosseum.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">98</span> +<span class = "miles to">57</span> +<a name = "frejus" id = "frejus"><b>FREJUS</b></a>, pop. 3400, +H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at the S.W. +extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m. +from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en +Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their +highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm +of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of +the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre +green pines which clothe these mountains.</p> + +<p>To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the +Porte de Gaules, and the <a name = "frejus_colosseum" id = +"frejus_colosseum"><b>Colosseum</b></a>, or Arènes, of which the +greatest diameter was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 +spectators. On the eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and +the terrace called the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a +Roman lighthouse. At this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. +The masonry throughout is admirable, composed of stones of the size of +large bricks. The Porte Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. +Having visited the ruins by the side of the railway, pass up by the +church, and leave the town by a road having on the left hand a large +building—the seminary. Having walked a few paces, there will be +seen to the left rather an ugly square tower, which marks the site of +the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in this neighbourhood are the +remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to Frejus from the +Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained 87 arches. To the +right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) powerful masonry. +Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part of the town is +the parish church, which, with the adjoining +<span class = "pagenum">147</span> +<a name = "page147" id = "page147"> </a> +<!-- png 189 --> +“éveché,” belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the +baptistery. In the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and +well-executed caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and +glimpses of the Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The +Phœnician merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum +Julii or Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or +Agde. Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.</p> + +<!-- png 188 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 146</span> +<span class = "smallcaps">the ESTÉREL MOUNTAINS</span><br> +with <span class = "smallcaps">FREJUS and S<sup>t</sup>. RAPHAËL<br> +to CANNES</span><br> +<a name = "map146" id = "map146" href = "images/map146.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map146thumb.png" width = "458" height = "235" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Saint Raphael.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">100½</span> +<span class = "miles to">54½</span> +<a name = "st_raphael" id = "st_raphael"><b>SAINT RAPHAEL</b></a>, a +rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In winter its guests come +from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and in summer from the hot +interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the still more refreshing +sea-bathing. <i>Hotels:</i> close to the station, the France, 8 to +9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an +eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to +13 frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the +cottage built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. +Little steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to <a href = +"#hyeres">Hyères</a> (p. 134). Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and +Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H. de Valescure. St. Raphael, +only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a salubrious and agreeable residence, +with pleasant walks, either by the beach or up the valley of the Garonne +into the Estérel mountains, where the rambles are endless. At the E. end +of St. Raphael is a very pleasant park, rising from the rocks on the +coast. A little farther towards Cannes is the Boulerie, with a +large hotel.</p> + +<p>Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and +here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast +are fine specimens of the <i>Pinus pinea</i>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Agay. Sainte Baume.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">105</span> +<span class = "miles to">50</span> +<a name = "agay" id = "agay"><b>AGAY</b></a>, a small custom-house +station, with a few houses at the head of a small but deep bay, into +which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top of the conical hill, on +the S.W. side of the station, is the <b>Tour de Darmont</b>, +a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte +Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape +Roux, 1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to +the old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the +railway to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds +upwards to the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into +the valley in an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of +Cape Roux till a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway +will be seen going upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge +is reached, close to the summit, +<span class = "pagenum">148</span> +<a name = "page148" id = "page148"> </a> +<!-- png 190 --> +where is a splendid view to the east and west and north-west; then take +to the left, and in a few hundred yards a platform, with a spout of +running water and a couple of abandoned buildings, is reached. Distance +about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above this, in the face of the rock, is +<a name = "ste_baume" id = "ste_baume"><b>La Sainte Baume</b></a>, the holy +cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a +hermit’s life for some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide +path seen from the hermitage leading westward to the river in the +valley. On the way remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone +pillar, a Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archæologists +base upon the existence of this stone their assertion that the Via +Aurelia passed this way. At the bottom of the valley cross the +Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Trayas.</span></p> + +<p>After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a +magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +<a name = "le_trayas" id = "le_trayas"><b>Le Trayas</b></a>, the next and +last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from St. Raphael, +6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas also +a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered nearer +though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train passes +from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes Maritimes, +then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having passed the +pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the +beautifully-situated town of Cannes.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cannes.</span></p> + +<!-- png 191 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 149</span> +<a name = "map149" id = "map149" href = "images/map149.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map149thumb.png" width = "486" height = "156" +alt = "plan of Cannes" title = "CANNES"></a><br> +[East Edge: Northward Arrow] <i>To Villa Nevada</i><br> +[East Edge: Southward Arrow] <i>To Hotel California</i> +</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">149</span> +<a name = "page149" id = "page149"> </a> +<!-- png 192 --> +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannes" id = "cannes"> +CANNES,</a></h5> + +<p>on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E. +from Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from +Nice. Fixed population, 19,400. <a name = "cannes_hotels" id = +"cannes_hotels"><b>Hotels and Pensions.</b></a>—Although there are +already very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas +there are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to +resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the +1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200, +including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens +attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett, +agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a +well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the +public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25 +frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair +gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per +day.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cannes: Hotels and Pensions.</span></p> + +<p>Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels +and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir, +8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the +Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther +up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity +Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden +fronting the promenade.</p> + +<p>Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the +hotels, 1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr.</p> + +<p>The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the +sea, is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable +to produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore +many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. <i>Hotels:</i> +fronting station, the Négociants; the <a class = "tag" name = "tag_2" id += "tag_2" href = "#note_2">1 </a>*Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the +Allées, on the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. +d’Antibes, the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the +H. Russie, 9 to 12 frs.</p> + +<p class = "footnote"> +<a name = "note_2" id = "note_2" href = "#tag_2">1</a> +The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name of hotel indicates +that it is one of the best of its class.</p> + +<p><i>Hotels to the east of the Allées</i>, fronting the beach, taking +them in the order from west to east:—The National, 9 to 15 frs.; +Midi, 8 to 12 frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; +the last four are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The +<span class = "pagenum">150</span> +<a name = "page150" id = "page150"> </a> +<!-- png 193 --> +H. Suisse; Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to +12 frs. Behind the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi, +in the R. Bossu, No. 8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.</p> + +<p>On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the +Louvre; H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; +La Paix. A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. de +France; H. Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs.</p> + +<p>Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels +Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie; +Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de +Californie is the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday +morning, 28th March 1884.</p> + +<p>In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard +Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; +all with gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.</p> + +<p>At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension +Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. +A little higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. +Paul; whence a road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a +first-class house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to +15 frs. Next it is the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well +inland, on the Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to +20 frs.</p> + +<p>On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is +the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the +H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the +beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to +10 frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is +the H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ +Church, and on an eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., +a large house with garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, +upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind +the Rothschild villa; and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord +Brougham’s villa. Farther west, and on the same level, is the +H. Estérel, same price. On a hill, a little beyond the perfume +distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la Tour, well situated, +and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is called La Bocca, and +sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. From this a road +runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are fields of the +fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the <a href = +"#perfumery">perfumeries</a> (see page 161).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cannes: Churches. Cab Fares. Steamers.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "cannes_churches" id = +"cannes_churches"><i>Churches.</i></a>—Christ Church, Rue de +Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard +<span class = "pagenum">151</span> +<a name = "page151" id = "page151"> </a> +<!-- png 194 --> +du Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique. +Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid +Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue +Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.</p> + +<p>Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the +office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are +sold.</p> + +<p><a name = "cannes_cabs" id = "cannes_cabs"><i>Cab +Fares.</i></a>—One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the +hour, 2½ frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, +3½ frs. Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. <a name = "cannes_steamers" id = +"cannes_steamers"><i>Steamers</i></a> from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for +Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and +St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and +Saturdays trips to Theoule, 2 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "cannes_brougham" id = +"cannes_brougham"> +<span class = "headnote"> Lord Brougham.</span></a></p> + +<p>Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, +and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and +gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it +extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills, +and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square, +called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at +the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110 +wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between +them is a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à +Edinburgh, le 19 Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is +in his official robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, +he holds a rose. The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and +interesting collections illustrating the natural history of the +neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every assistance in naming +the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the +adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the +Church of Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the +15th. In front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it +are St. Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square +tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery +of St. Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the +tower is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new +cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The +monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing +the following inscription:— “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII. +Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose, +K.T., died December 1874.</p> + +<p><a name = "cannes_climate" id = "cannes_climate"><i>The +climate</i></a>, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In +<span class = "pagenum">152</span> +<a name = "page152" id = "page152"> </a> +<!-- png 195 --> +nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but +on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. +The mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy +days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as +at Nice. “The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as +its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties +of the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic +temperaments.” —Madden’s <i>Resorts</i>. “While Cannes, therefore, +possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and +many classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating +atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those +suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” —<i>Dr. +Hassall.</i></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cannes: Drives.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "cannes_drives" id = +"cannes_drives"><i>Drives.</i></a>—In Cannes there are great +facilities for driving in carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The +omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of +the Cours (Allées de la Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the +Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge +for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen +carry their tariffs with them, and are bound to show them when required. +Copies of the “Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the +Kiosque on the Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at +the rate of 3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Road to Vallauris.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannes_corniche" id = "cannes_corniche"> +THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.</a></h5> + +<p>The best of the drives is to <a name = "vallauris_road" id = +"vallauris_road"><b>Vallauris</b></a> by the low road to the Golfe de +Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., +and 250 ft. above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. +S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. +Cab with one horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, +1 fr. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a +delightful and easy walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris +bridge a little below Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road. +About ½ m. from the bridge is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,” +where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view +east from Cannes to Bordighera. About half-way between this and the +observatory at the Cannes or S.W. end of the road is the large hotel +Cannes-Eden.</p> + +<p>The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in <a name = +"la_californie" id = "la_californie">La Californie</a>, is 545 ft. above +the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1 fr. +each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which +supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the +<span class = "pagenum">153</span> +<a name = "page153" id = "page153"> </a> +<!-- png 196 --> +other branch, by which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the +Belle-Vue hotel on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal +commences near the source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. +Cesaire.</p> + +<p>From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still +higher summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère. +The view is similar, including more of the interior. A short +distance N.E. from this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which +from the top looks as if it were nearly over Antibes.</p> + +<p>Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from +Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de +Jouan station is C. Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the +road towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (<a href = +"#antibes">p. 169</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vallauris. Pottery. Mines.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "vallauris" id = "vallauris"><b>Vallauris</b></a>, pop. +4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and restaurants. The omnibus +stops in the “Place” opposite the church and the Hôtel de Ville, +containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that “the +Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32d year of his +tribunician authority.” Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in +diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of <a name = +"vallauris_pottery" id = "vallauris_pottery">kitchen pottery</a>, +“Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the +“marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without +cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for +2 frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture +of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the +showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. +Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up +northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the +Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets +the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up +road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the <a name = +"vallauris_mines" id = "vallauris_mines">clay-mines</a>. The entrances +into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The +colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various +shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are +made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near +Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery.</span></p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vallauris_to_antibes" id = +"vallauris_to_antibes"> +Vallauris to Antibes.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes +traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having +passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick +and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind, +extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed, +and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to +Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. <a href = "#cap_antibes">154</a> and +<a href = "#antibes">169</a>.)</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">154</span> +<a name = "page154" id = "page154"> </a> +<!-- png 197 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cannet. La Croisette.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cannet" id = "cannet"> +CANNET.</a></h5> + +<p>Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is +<b>Cannet</b>, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the +H. *Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste. +Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 +frs. Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 +the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none +of those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the +church is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. +Cab to Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs.</p> + +<p>Drive to <a name = "la_croisette" id = "la_croisette"><b>La +Croisette</b></a>, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beautiful +road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½ fr., +or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous. +Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive +by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the +entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The +trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they +were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost +about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are +those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process, +and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there +is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications +begun by Richelieu, but never completed.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes</i>, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 +seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 +frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it +starts from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,” +fare 1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the +H. Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to +8 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. +Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by +Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side +of the entrance. From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high +walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen +distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland +from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther +west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped +with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. +One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; +the other forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du +Recrutement.”</p> + +<!-- png 198 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 155</span> +CANNES & ENVIRONS<br> +<a name = "map155" id = "map155" href = "images/map155.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map155thumb.png" width = "452" height = "277" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cap d’Antibes. Lighthouse.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The <a name = "cap_antibes" id = "cap_antibes"><b>Cap d’Antibes</b></a> +affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the “Cap” from +Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the +<span class = "pagenum">155</span> +<a name = "page155" id = "page155"> </a> +<!-- png 199 --> +Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the +first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. Ascend +the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via Crucis,” +bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some +part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. d’Antibes, +frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the +building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the <a name = "lighthouse" id += "lighthouse">lighthouse</a> built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the +sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the +top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for +one person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the +road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class +house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret +are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical +trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into +France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For +<a href = "#antibes">Antibes</a>, see also p. 169.) The great tower on +a rock to the W., overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Croix des Gardes. Theoule.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.</b>—<a name = +"croix_des_gardes" id = "croix_des_gardes"><i>La Croix des +Gardes</i></a>, 2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest +way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. +The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is +extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable +plantations of the <i>Acacia farnesiana</i>, from whose flowers a +pleasant perfume is distilled.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "napoule" id = "napoule"><i>Cannes to Napoule</i></a>, 6 m. W, +Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 +frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for +the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 +c.; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk +on to <a name = "theoule" id = "theoule"><b>Theoule</b></a> and back, +2 m. W. The Napoule road commences from the western, or what +is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little +Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public +gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal +Chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is +the villa Eléonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden +among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress +trees growing by the side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an +eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the +road, is the poor little chapel of <a name = "st_cassien" id = +"st_cassien">St. Cassien</a>, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is +held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in +Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side +of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a +very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to +the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of +the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at +Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct, +a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From +Theoule a road extends to Trayas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Estérel. Pégomas.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "esterel" id = "esterel"><i>Cannes to the Inn of +Estérel</i></a>, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea. +<span class = "pagenum">156</span> +<a name = "page156" id = "page156"> </a> +<!-- png 200 --> +Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18 +frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca +and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or +north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265 ft., +a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. Afterwards +the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. above the +sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst +picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The inn is +situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet, +876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. above the +inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near the inn. The +culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about 1¼ m. +west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost immediately +below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the +Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of <a name = +"pegomas" id = "pegomas"><b>Pégomas</b></a>, pop. 1350, on the +Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden among +bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk +up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or 16 frs.; 1 hour’s +rest.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +About 3 m. N.W. is <a name = "auribeau" id = +"auribeau"><b>Auribeau</b></a>, pop. 480, prettily situated on the +Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mougins. Castelaras.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is <a name = +"mougins" id = "mougins"><b>Mougins</b></a>, pop. 1680. The road ascends +all the way, passing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large +olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about +¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab there and back, one horse, 12 +frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest. Mougins still retains a few +low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the +shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from +the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful +view. To the west is La Roquette, N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond +Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and on the border of the Estérels, is +the village of Mandelieu.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the +new road, is <a name = "castelaras" id = +"castelaras"><b>Castelaras</b></a>, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a +villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of +Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to the +north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, and the +Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to the south. +The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to +Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the +east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and tower are +distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther +north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Sail by steamboat</i> to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer +makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste. +Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the +steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">157</span> +<a name = "page157" id = "page157"> </a> +<!-- png 201 --> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "iles_lerins" id = "iles_lerins"> +ILES DE LERINS.</a></h5> + +<p>The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m. +from the mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at +Point Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, +containing the apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the +far more interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was +closely guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the +only communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into +the house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a +road, bordered by the <i>Eucalyptus globulus</i>, goes right through the +pine plantation to the other side of the island.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "iron_mask" id = "iron_mask"> +<span class = "headnote">The Man of the Iron Mask.</span></a></p> + +<p>The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli, +a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On +the 13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard +Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which +has long since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader +in the University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service +of Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made +Secretary of State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand +Charles IV., the last sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, +created Matthioli supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the +title of Count. Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador +from France to the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was +well aware would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his +master, Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand +Charles to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale, +a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The +cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus, +Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont, +while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and +fertile plains of Milan.</p> + +<p>The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the +prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication +between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the +person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and +was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the +schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French +court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., +<span class = "pagenum">158</span> +<a name = "page158" id = "page158"> </a> +<!-- png 202 --> +who at the same time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly +after Matthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over +by the Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so +exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé +Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond +Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé, +accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach +of international law required the adoption of extraordinary +precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang, he +was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled armed +attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made any +attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in +prison, till orders came from Paris, stating— “It is not the +intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well treated, +nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life, nor +anything to make his time pass agreeably.” He was handed over to the +charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence in +1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars removed +his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste. Marguerite, +where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of twelve days.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’ +sojourn on the island are:—On one occasion he is alleged to have +written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the +window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, +on finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion +Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing, which +he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk, who, when +he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not read it. Two +days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of these stories is +to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the Minister, dated 4th June +1692, in which he informs him that he has been obliged to inflict +corporeal punishment upon a Protestant clergyman named Salves, also in +his keeping, because he would write things on his pewter vessels and +linen, to make known that he was imprisoned unjustly on account of the +purity of his faith.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place +St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September +1698.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the 19th November 1703, about 10 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span>, Matthioli died in the Bastile, after a few +hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span> in the cemetery of St. Paul.—Extracted +from the <i>History of the Bastile</i>, by R. A. Davenport.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +The Island of St. Honorat. Abbey. Massacre.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Island of <a name = "st_honorat" id = "st_honorat"><b>St. +Honorat</b></a> contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste. Marguerite, +from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of 2½ m., +shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight +<span class = "pagenum">159</span> +<a name = "page159" id = "page159"> </a> +<!-- png 203 --> +from the landing-place is a <a name = "honorat_abbey" id = +"honorat_abbey">convent</a> of Cistercian monks, settled here only since +1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410. In 730 +and 891 the <a name = "honorat_massacre" id = +"honorat_massacre">Saracens</a> invaded the island, pillaged the +establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again +flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume +Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the tower +on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. commenced the +castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the +fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on +account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and +buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of +Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of +Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay +brethren.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what +Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany +and southern Italy, <b>St. Honorat</b> was to the church of southern +Gaul. For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district +between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of +Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the +barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the +Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as +Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the more +illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had been +reared at Lerins. To <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#arles">Arles</a> (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary, +Cæsarius, and Virgilius.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the +massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on the +little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing +in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent.” +—J. R. Green’s <i>Stray Studies</i>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_honorat_castle" id = +"st_honorat_castle"> +<span class = "headnote">St. Honorat: Castle.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall +rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting +cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a large +hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and by +others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In the +wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the +ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took possession +of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown by the +concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong cloister, +in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor of the first +is supported on short columns standing round the edge of a cistern. From +this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and refectory. From the +upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel, which opened into the +library. Above the library was the infirmary, of which not a vestige +remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors are next taken +to the convent. The church and buildings are +<span class = "pagenum">160</span> +<a name = "page160" id = "page160"> </a> +<!-- png 204 --> +modern, excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend +much time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last +steamer, and have consequently little time to spare.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chapel of the Trinity.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th +cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the +wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel +of St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At +the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel +of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large +gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St. +Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a +stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught different +trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to their support. +On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is the most +interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *<a name = "chapel_trinity" +id = "chapel_trinity"><b>Trinity</b></a>, 35 ft. long by about 25 wide, +placed from east to west. The great corner-stones of this small temple, +by their size and solidity, are the main supports of the building, +illustrating thereby the reason why in Scripture so much importance and +honour are attached to them in edifices. The roof of the nave is +semicircular, strengthened by three arches, the centre one springing +from two round columns. The roofs of the three apsidal chapels are +semispherical.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "grasse" id = "grasse"><b>Cannes to Grasse</b></a>, 12½ m. N. +by rail, pop. 12,100. <i>Hotels:</i> the G. H. International, +9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le Bar. In the +town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their omnibuses await +passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the stair to the right of +the station, and then the steep road on the other side of the highway. +Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious water, and the best of +air, makes an excellent and beneficial change from Cannes. The town, +with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, crooked, steep streets, is +situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the southern slope of Mt. +Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly 695 ft. above the town. +To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, 2920 ft. above the sea. The +short but stony road to the top of Rocavignon commences opposite the +fountain used by the washerwomen. On the summit is a stony plateau, +commanding extensive and exquisite views. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "plain_napoleon" id = +"plain_napoleon"> +Plain of Napoleon.</a></span> +A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of Napoleon, +because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot of the three +tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the face of the +large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a cavern or +“foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water issues in +the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down into the +beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther inland. It +joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from the plateau, +which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for the aged, +enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of St. Sauveur, +a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, built in +the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this way, and +just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, is the +hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, +<span class = "pagenum">161</span> +<a name = "page161" id = "page161"> </a> +<!-- png 205 --> +in which are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to +Rubens—the Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the +Crucifixion. The concierge uncovers them. Immediately below, and +opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house of +M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "fragonard" id = "fragonard"> +Jean Fragonard.</a></span> +Jean Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are +five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing +frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue +des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some +decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are +shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church, +built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It +contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of +Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the east +end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining is the +Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of the 11th +cent.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal +square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the sides +arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the Palais de +Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Perfumery.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "perfumery" id = "perfumery"> +PERFUMERY.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and the +preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces resembling +great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are the Otto of +Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of rose leaves +(petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto of Roses, +which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy of the +petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which costs 8 to 10 +sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, is made from the +flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used principally in the +manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it constitutes the base. In +colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is that of Eau de Cologne. The +water that comes off in distilling Néroly forms the orange-water of the +cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is superior to that of Turkey. +Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs are made from +freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of glass, held by their +frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the other, without pressing +the flowers. On each side of the glass is a layer of lard ⅓ of an inch +thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs completely the odoriferous oil. +When the flowers are abundant they are renewed every 12 hours, sometimes +even every 6. The operation is repeated several times on the same lard +with fresh flowers. Jonquilles are changed 30 times, the cassia and +violet 60, the tuberose (a kind of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both +80 times. The lard is then melted in a large iron vessel, and mixed with +spirits made from grain, which, combining with the volatile oil, rises +to the top. The fluid is then filtered. +<span class = "pagenum">162</span> +<a name = "page162" id = "page162"> </a> +<!-- png 206 --> +This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals require the hot +methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.” The distilling of +the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most vigilant attention, +and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. Rose and orange pomade +are made by the bain-marie method by submerging a large iron pot full of +lard in boiling water. When the lard is melted the petals are added, and +after having remained there for 12 or 24 hours the mass is filtered to +remove the now inodorous petals. The operation is repeated from 30 to 60 +times, according to the required strength of the perfume. The red Turkey +rose is the only rose used.</p> + + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of +*Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved fruits, +which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the +glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams +and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the perfumery +of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be made from a +franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of Warwick and Co., and +in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of whom supply +Atkinson of London with the raw material.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Cesaire. Cannes Canal. Callian.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "st_cesaire" id = "st_cesaire"><i>Grasse to St. +Cesaire.</i></a>—9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there and +back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little village, pop. +350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 feet above the +sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a large elm in the +“Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la Siagne (pension from 6 +to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in the river or ramble +in the environs can live comfortably. From the end of the street, right +from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence there is a view of the +valley of the Siagne, with the <a name = "cannes_canal" id = +"cannes_canal">Cannes canal</a> on its eastern side. The path to the +cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the upper side of this canal, and +requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The commencement of the Cannes Canal is +about a half-hour’s walk farther up. No guide is necessary, unless it be +desired to inspect the cave with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the +more famous caves of Cahors and of <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#vaucluse">Vaucluse</a> (p. 64), this cavern or “foux,” +at the base of a calcareous cliff, contains a great basin of limpid +water, but no stalactites. The Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered +conduit 31 m. long, exposed to animal and vegetable impurities +throughout nearly its entire course. Of greater interest is the +commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water from the +Siagnole to <a href = "#frejus">Frejus</a> (p. 146, and <a href = +"#map129">map, p. <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘117’">129</ins></a>) by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of +the size of bricks, through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 +wide, and 82 high, in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by +the Roman engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited +from Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a +bridle-path, <i>Inn:</i> Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this +village the tunnel is about 9 m. distant by an excellent +carriage-road. 1½ m. from Montauroux is the village <a name = +"callian" id = "callian"><b>Callian</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> Castel, 1200 +ft., supplied with water by the Roman aqueduct.</p> + + +<!-- png 207 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 163</span> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +THE DURANCE, THE VAR,<br> +the col di tenda, san remo</span><br> +<i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br> +<i>For continuation eastwards see <a href = "#map211">map, page +211</a>.</i><br> +<a name = "map163" id = "map163" href = "images/map163.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map163thumb.png" width = "462" height = "209" +alt = "see caption"></a><br> +<i>For continuation westwards see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map66">map, page 66</a>.</i><br> +<i>For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map123">map, page +123</a>.</i> +</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and +<span class = "pagenum">163</span> +<a name = "page163" id = "page163"> </a> +<!-- png 208 --> +situated at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of <a name += "mons" id = "mons"><b>Mons</b></a>. Those who have already seen such +caves will find in this one nothing new nor striking. To visit it not +only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of the cave at Mons must be +advised beforehand, that he may be at the mouth of the cave with the +key. It is much the better plan to return from the commencement of the +Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive back to Grasse. The olives of St. +Cesaire are considered among the best flavoured of the Riviera.</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "grasse_to_cagnes" id = +"grasse_to_cagnes"> +Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Grasse</b> to the railway station of <b>Cagnes</b> by the <b>Pont du +Loup</b> and <b>Vence</b>, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private +carriage, 30 frs. This drive is generally taken in two +parts—Grasse to the Pont du Loup; then from the Pont du Loup to +Vence or Cagnes.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pont du Loup. Tourette.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "pont_du_loup" id = "pont_du_loup"><i>Grasse to the Pont du +Loup by Le Bar</i></a>, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two horses there +and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr. Distance, +5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the valley +of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the Gorge du +Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the ravine of the +Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, which requires a +good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole way from Grasse to +Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on the same level (1090 +ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at every turn exquisite +views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its little cluster of +houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long narrow valley, just +at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a rocky gorge. On the top +of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du Loup, is the village of +Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church of Le Bar there is an +excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the Loup, and of the +carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit the Pont du Loup +generally content themselves with a ramble in the gorge, and then, after +having taken some refreshments, either return to Grasse or go on to the +railway station of <a href = "#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes</a> (see +p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive +from Grasse to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. +The very same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, +15 m. eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should +be taken in the “Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes +railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. +Distance, 6 m. The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow +the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of <a name += "tourette" id = "tourette"><b>Tourette</b></a>, pop. 980, at the foot +of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the omnibus +halts.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vence.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vence" id = "vence"><b>Vence</b></a>, 1100 ft. above the sea, +pop. 2800. <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or, pension 9 frs. Picturesquely +situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees +and studded with houses standing singly and in clusters. This, the +ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its +<span class = "pagenum">164</span> +<a name = "page164" id = "page164"> </a> +<!-- png 209 --> +old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.) next the +gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of +Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in the style of +the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no +space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of +Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, 68 ft. +wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with massive piers +and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave. +Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir, +containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the +altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N.E. corner +of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which, +unfortunately, a large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the +ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the +square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end, +stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the +second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned +this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years +Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the +chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault +of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present “Place” behind the +chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on +the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still +larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing +cocks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved +door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or +15th cent.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Roche-Blanche. Rocher-Noir.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, +extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea. +The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the <a name = +"roche_blanche" id = "roche_blanche"><b>Roche-Blanche</b></a>, +commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled +village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of +the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow +path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes +of the prickly broom. The next hill is the <a name = "rocher_noir" id = +"rocher_noir"><b>Rocher-Noir</b></a>, having on its eastern side, right +above the bed of the Cagnes, a “foux,” an immense cave called the +Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. +It is 3½ m. from Vence. The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and +bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing +one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the +first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable +in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre +bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in +hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the +rate of 3s. 8d. the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes +(8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. +the kilo.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">165</span> +<a name = "page165" id = "page165"> </a> +<!-- png 210 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cagnes.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole +way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with +part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. 1500. +The coach drives through the low or modern town of <a name = "cagnes" id += "cagnes"><b>Cagnes</b></a>. <i>Inn:</i> Savournin, not comfortable +during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual, +a hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi, +a polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who +has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Dorée, +representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture +gallery. A little way down from the castle are the ruins of the +small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good +preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence. +(For the <a href = "#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes station</a>, see +p. 169.)</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Vallier.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "st_vallier" id = "st_vallier"> +ST. VALLIER.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "grasse_to_digne" id = "grasse_to_digne"><b>Grasse to +Digne</b></a>, 63 m. north.—By the courrier 16 frs., changing +coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles +4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By +private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at +Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting +at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see <a href = "#map163">map, +p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises +at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier (2350 ft. +above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant, +population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand +views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains. +The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the +“Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., +indicating the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is +about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges +per day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards +the Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The +remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from +Grasse to St. Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The +Pont-à-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a +bridge, like the “Pont” across the Ardèche.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep +sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, +a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside +inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282 +ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse. +A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, +one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from +Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded +mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Castellane. Taulanne. Barrème.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is <a name = +"castellane" id = "castellane"><b>Castellane</b></a>, 2370 ft. above the +sea. Pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Levant; Commerce. A village of crooked +streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one +<span class = "pagenum">166</span> +<a name = "page166" id = "page166"> </a> +<!-- png 211 --> +arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the +chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive +prospect. Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left +bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night +here. A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, +although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad +weather. 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is <a href = +"#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Sainte Marie</a> (see p. 167). +From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the +Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to <a name = "taulanne" id = +"taulanne"><b>Taulanne</b></a>, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From +Taulanne the road descends 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque +ravine, to <a name = "senez" id = "senez"><b>Senez</b></a>, pop. 620, +among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river +Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to +1242.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is <a name = +"barreme" id = "barreme"><b>Barrème</b></a>, pop. 1100, on the +confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and +the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits, +especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road +from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the +Asse and the Clumane.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Digne.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "digne" id = "digne"><b>Digne</b></a>, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. +above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from the station St. Auban on +the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from Marseilles, 62¼ m. +N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is 109½ m. S. +from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the road from +Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap; +and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see +map of Rhône and Savoy). <i>Hotels:</i> Boyer; Remusat, both in the +Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one +of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the +capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from +the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, +and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more +interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the +historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the +foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Fahr., +efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2 frs. From +Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good +resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable +and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supply carriages at so much +per day (see <a href = "#map163">map, p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Riez. Barjols.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is +to <a name = "riez" id = "riez"><b>Riez</b></a>, 26 m. S.W., fare +4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence centre. Riez, pop. +3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. <i>Inn:</i> +H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22 m. +W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to <a href = +"#greoulx">Gréoulx</a> (see p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, +and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare 4 frs. For <a href = +"#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Sainte Marie</a> (see p. 167), +9 m. E., +<span class = "pagenum">167</span> +<a name = "page167" id = "page167"> </a> +<!-- png 212 --> +by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For <a name = "montmelian_desc" id = +"montmelian_desc"><b>Montmelian</b></a>, 18 m. S., by Quinson. +Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, +H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian +a coach runs to <a name = "barjols_2" id = +"barjols_2"><b>Barjols</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> H. Pont d’Or, +9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to <a href = +"#brignoles">Brignoles</a> (see p. 142). For <b>Valensole</b>, +7½ m. W., whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. +W. From Volx coach to <b>Digne</b>, 25 m. N., by Puymoisson, +3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on +the Asse, <i>Inn:</i> H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, +7½ m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep +valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down +in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, +walnuts, and cherries (see <a href = "#map163">map, +p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly +surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers +has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of +the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows +which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of +the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a +peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated +octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are +the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite +columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th +cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 wide, +outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian +columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S.W. corner is a +short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where +there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town +and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Moustiers Ste. Marie.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious +village of <a name = "moustiers_ste_marie" id = +"moustiers_ste_marie"><b>Moustiers Ste. Marie</b></a> by the courrier, +starting at 2 and returning at 4. <i>Inn:</i> H. du Mouton +Couronné. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow +gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous +sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between +two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from +which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, +by the stair of the “Via Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost +immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. +Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. +side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between +Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. +E. from Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between +them.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gréoulx. Baths.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is <a name = "greoulx" +id = "greoulx"><b>Gréoulx</b></a>, pop. 1400, a dirty village on a +hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle +built by the Knight-Templars. Less than ½ m. from the village is +the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to +5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. +<span class = "pagenum">168</span> +<a name = "page168" id = "page168"> </a> +<!-- png 213 --> +Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day, +10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and +furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is +1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most +abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt +new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the +chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the +carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also +rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with +other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the +water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used +in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are +partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water +into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to +Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (<a href = "#map163">map, +p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Manosque.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "manosque" id = "manosque"><b>Manosque</b></a>, pop. 6200, on +the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22 m. north from +Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and +59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. +Auban, 31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. +from Aspres, and 130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and +Savoy).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Hotels:</i> Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the +surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the +Poste. Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the +Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive +trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the +eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering +the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and +badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily +recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the +main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are +circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each +side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is +extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower +than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the façade leads +to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and whence there is +a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre Dame, in exactly +the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the +left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent., +with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a +crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date +from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of +Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, +a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the +poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and +lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the baths of +Gréoulx, in the same direction; to <b>Apt</b> (see index), 26 m. W., by +Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. <b>Volx</b> station is +the intended terminus of the rail from Apt.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">169</span> +<a name = "page169" id = "page169"> </a> +<!-- png 214 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vallauris. Antibes.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">124</span> +<span class = "miles to">31</span> +<a name = "golf_jouan" id = "golf_jouan"><b>GOLF JOUAN</b></a> or +<a name = "vallauris_stn" id = "vallauris_stn"><b>VALLAURIS</b></a>. A few +yards straight up from the station is a short column, which marks the +spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elba on March 1, +1815. A very pleasant road, lined with villas, connects this small +port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">127</span> +<span class = "miles to">28</span> +<a name = "antibes" id = "antibes"><b>ANTIBES</b></a>, pop. 6000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortified port founded by +the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark +of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square +the inhabitants have erected a monument to their valour. Those wishing a +bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church. +The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of Antibes is of superior +quality (see <a href = "#cap_antibes">p. 154</a>). From Antibes +station omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">132</span> +<span class = "miles to">23</span> +<a name = "vence_cagnes" id = "vence_cagnes"><b>VENCE-CAGNES</b></a>. At +this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about +1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains +the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the same road +is <b>Vence</b>, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several +interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for +perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the +terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice +runs a diligence (see <a href = "#page165">p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">136</span> +<span class = "miles to">19</span> +<a name = "var" id = "var"><b>VAR</b></a>. This station is on the left +or Nice side of the river Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over +the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from the station by the road to +St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pépinières, extensive, but not well +kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the +Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the +next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two +contain many beautiful marble monuments.</p> + +<p>At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in +January.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nice.</span></p> + +<!-- png 216 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 171</span> +<a name = "map171" id = "map171" href = "images/map171.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map171thumb.png" width = "499" height = "260" +alt = "plan of Nice" title = "NICE"></a> +</p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nice" id = "nice"> +NICE</a></h5> + +<p>is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. +N.E. from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. +from Cannes. It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from +Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo +(see <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">railway map, fly-leaf</a>). +Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, +mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">170</span> +<a name = "page170" id = "page170"> </a> +<!-- png 215 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_hotels" id = "nice_hotels"> +<span class = "headnote">Nice: Hotels and Pensions.</span></a></p> + +<p>Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the +order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the +“Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and +opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side +of the cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, +13 to 18 frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the +H. West End, all first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per +day.</p> + +<p>The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they +have considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of +the sea so much. The H. de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, +8 to 11 frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the +Boulevard du Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des +Anglais, are the Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; +and on the Quai des Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 +frs.</p> + +<p>Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre +and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in +the Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, +and the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is +the Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are +the hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the +garden in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge +from 10 to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly +by French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.</p> + +<p>On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and +pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the +railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux +Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs +with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10 +to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to +12 frs. At the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 +frs., and the Hotel des Alpes.</p> + +<p>In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the +H. Iles Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch +churches, and some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. +The best of the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. +Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. +Longchamp, the H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, +all from 10 to 20 frs. Near the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 +frs.</p> + +<p>Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et +<span class = "pagenum">171</span> +<a name = "page171" id = "page171"> </a> +<!-- png 217 --> +P. de Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it +the H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, +entered from R. St. Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.</p> + +<p>At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; +near it the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with +gardens.</p> + +<p>Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther +down the H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.</p> + +<p>From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to +the Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the +Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the +H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the +first-class houses—the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. +Behind the Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d’Orient. The +large building in the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the +American Episcopal Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the +H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion.</p> + +<p>The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the +B. Dubouchage, and about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by +delicate people, who sun themselves in the gardens and boulevards of +this quarter. At the Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the +first-class houses—the H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and +opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence in a garden off the +B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the +B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, +and houses with furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel +Episcopal Church, and near it the Hôtel Carabacel.</p> + +<p>On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near +the Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the +road to the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès +Hill, on opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et +P. Cimiès, and the Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to +12 frs. They are about 2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The +tram from the Place Massena has its terminus near the +P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own omnibus. The town +omnibus runs within a short distance of the P. Anglaise.</p> + +<p>In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and +its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with +moderate prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward—at No. +100, in garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de +Rome, 12 frs. At No. 121 is the H. de l’Elysée, with front to the +Promenade des Anglais. At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; +<span class = "pagenum">172</span> +<a name = "page172" id = "page172"> </a> +<!-- png 218 --> +and opposite, the H. du Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des +Anglais. At No. 34 the P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. +Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. In the Place Massena the +H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial gentlemen the best is +the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.</p> + +<p>Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the +private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings. +In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where +they can arrange at the prices given:—H. du Midi, opp. +station, 8 to 11 frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de +la Gare the H. des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At +17 B. Carabacel H. et P. de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the +Rue de France the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the +Promenade des Anglais the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue +Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs., including everything. In the +R. Gioffredo the H. and R. Montesquieu, 8 to +9 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nice: Cafés. Banks.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "nice_cafes" id = "nice_cafes"><i>Cafés.</i></a>—The +best in the Place Massena. <i>Restaurants.</i>—The *London House, +Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare, and at +No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. <i>Clubs or Cercles.</i>—The Cercle de la +Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. +Jean.</p> + +<p><a name = "nice_banks" id = "nice_banks"><i>Banks.</i></a>—The +Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds of banking +business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15 Avenue de la +Gare. Other banks—the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena; Lacroix et +Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.</p> + +<p><i>House Agents.</i>—John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin +Public; C. Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du +Temple.</p> + +<p><i>Post Office</i>, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du +Midi. Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris +time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the +Nice time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with +45,000 volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span> It contains a few antiquities, some Roman +milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina +Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi. +Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "nice_booksellers" id = +"nice_booksellers"><i>Booksellers.</i></a>—Galignani, 15 Quai +Massena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin +Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. +Gaze’s is at No. 13, and Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Druggists.</i>—Of these there are excellent English +establishments in the principal streets.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">173</span> +<a name = "page173" id = "page173"> </a> + +<p><i>Confectioneries and Perfumeries.</i>—Of the confections the +<i>specialité</i> of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round +boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most +expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme +(2 lbs. 3¼ oz.), strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the +stones, 8 frs. All the others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the +kilo. The best shops are— *Caëtan Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; +Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and *Escoffier, in the Place Massena. +Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on +the left bank of the Paillon.</p> + +<!-- png 219 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nice: Churches. Conveyances.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "nice_churches" id = +"nice_churches"><i>Churches.</i></a>—Temple Évangélique or Vaudois +in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; +Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; German Church, Rue Adelaide; American +Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue +St. Michel; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre +Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.</p> + +<p>Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.</p> + +<p><i>Coach hire.</i>—A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 +frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery +stables, where carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per +month.</p> + +<p><a name = "nice_cabs" id = "nice_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>—Drivers +have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the +course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2½ frs.; +seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the +hour, 3½ frs.</p> + +<p>To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats +for 4, 1½ fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top +of cab 25 c., and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of +a hotel, to engage the cab by the hour.</p> + +<p>All the <i>tram cars</i> start from the Place Massena.</p> + +<p><a name = "nice_diligences" id = +"nice_diligences"><i>Diligences.</i></a>—From the office, No. 34 +Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily:—Coach to <a href = +"#st_martin_lantosque">St. Martin Lantosque</a>, 3117 ft. above the sea, +and 37 m. N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see +p. 180). Coach to <a href = "#puget_theniers">Puget-Théniers</a>, +1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare 2½ frs., +time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To <a href = "#st_sauveur">St. +Sauveur</a>, 40½ m. N. (p. 182). Omnibus twice daily during +the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low Corniche road. From the +office, Place St. François, start:—<a href = +"#nice_to_turin">Coach to Cuneo</a>, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col +di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 +ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N. from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time +11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean +Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15 m. N. +from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or, Rue de +l’Aqueduct, +<span class = "pagenum">174</span> +<a name = "page174" id = "page174"> </a> +<!-- png 220 --> +coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N. up the valley +of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of Trinité—Victor, +5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon; and then +on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the +village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "contes" id = "contes"> +Contes.</a></span> +Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees, +and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to +Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nice: Climate.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "nice_climate" id = +"nice_climate"><i>Climate.</i></a>—If I should be asked to draw a +comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate, +I should be inclined to call Nice a trifle colder in winter, +especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M. Teysseire has +preserved and published records of twenty years’ meteorological +observations taken at Nice with instruments placed outside his window, +on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His mean results for the +twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake of comparison, +I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:—</p> + +<table> +<caption class = "smallcaps">Mean Temperature.</caption> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td>Nice.</td> +<td>Cannes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>November</td> +<td>53.8</td> +<td>52.6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>December</td> +<td>48.5</td> +<td>46.3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>January</td> +<td>47.1</td> +<td>48</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>February</td> +<td>46.2</td> +<td>48.8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>March</td> +<td>51.8</td> +<td>51</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>April</td> +<td>58.1</td> +<td>55.5</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at +Cannes.—<i>Health Resorts</i>, by M. Marcet, M.D.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vallons" id = "vallons"> +<span class = "headnote">Vallons.</span></a></p> + +<p>Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the +Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a +reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. +Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with +precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent +action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on +the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the +conglomerate. The great vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant +Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near +which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, +opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls +nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up +the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is +the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, +which high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles +as to be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and +the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the +entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which +<span class = "pagenum">175</span> +<a name = "page175" id = "page175"> </a> +<!-- png 221 --> +fire-bricks are made. The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de +Mantéga (see plan), has great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer +conglomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, +which, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar.</p> + +<p>The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:—1st, the new +or fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, +containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets +bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion +are hotels and “pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of +narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of +centre, and running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it +from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of +harbour.</p> + +<p>During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, +with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In +winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it +is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the +largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating +population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled +together between the Paillon and the Château hill.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_promenade" id = "nice_promenade"> +<span class = "headnote">Nice: Promenade. Castle. +Cemetery.</span></a></p> + +<p>The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the +English in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This +beautiful terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach +of the Baie des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of +the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the +mouth of the river Var, near the Racecourse.</p> + +<p>Over the Port rises the <a name = "nice_castle" id = +"nice_castle"><b>Castlehill</b></a>, 315 ft., commanding from the +platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the +peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort +Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. +To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the +distance the <a href = "#roche_blanche">Roche-Blanche</a> (p. 164), +the peninsula of Antibes, and the Estérels. This fortress, founded by +the early Phœnician colonists, and destroyed and rebuilt at various +periods afterwards, was finally razed to the ground in 1706, by order of +Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now it has become the great park of +Nice. A round tower that still remains, over the Hôtel des Princes, +called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added to the Castle by Emmanuel +Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill (see plan) is the <a name += "nice_cemetery" id = "nice_cemetery">cemetery</a> in five stages. At +the entrance is the monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, +23d March 1881.” Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of +<span class = "pagenum">176</span> +<a name = "page176" id = "page176"> </a> +<!-- png 222 --> +Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her +son, General Garibaldi. In the highest terrace is the grave containing +Gambetta and his mother. In a terrace by itself in the eastern end is +the Protestant cemetery.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "caterina_segurana" id = +"caterina_segurana"> +<span class = "headnote">Caterina Segurana.</span></a></p> + +<p>Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King +Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane +to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. +On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked +the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon +and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the +standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was +born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port +before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue +Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in +1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No. +15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in +fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also +the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died +(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of +the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches +in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and +variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de +la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in +Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too +small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost +of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, +in an orange grove, is the +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "nice_memorial_chapel" id = +"nice_memorial_chapel"> +Nice: Memorial Chapel.</a></span> +Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of ascending domes, built over +the spot on which stood the villa in which the Prince Imperial of Russia +died, April 24, 1865. The interior is covered with designs in gold leaf, +varied here and there by a light-blue ground. Round the base runs a +white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes of saints in niches.</p> + +<p>The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the +handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight +line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are +the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best +shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind +the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision +kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, +<span class = "pagenum">177</span> +<a name = "page177" id = "page177"> </a> +<!-- png 223 --> +and dressmakers. At the east end of the <a name = "nice_croix_marbre" id += "nice_croix_marbre"><b>Rue de France</b></a> is the Croix de Marbre, +a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected in +1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Francis I., and +Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two +potentates through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite +commemorates the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near +this is Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, +the second Protestant church built in Nice.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_massena" id = "nice_massena"> +<span class = "headnote">André Massena.</span></a></p> + +<p>On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the +large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty +public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in +an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of +France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which +stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon +to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “to +drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea.” But the wary +strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved +resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a +masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the +chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but +it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the +river, called the “Jardin Public,” planted with magnolias, acacias, +Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays +here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on +the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the +summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cimiès.</span></p> + +<p>All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare +lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice, +and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m. +distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is <a name = "cimies" id = +"cimies"><b>Cimiès</b></a> (430 ft. above the sea), another favoured +spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids requiring a sedative +climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman city Cemenelium, of +which all that remains are the ruins of an amphitheatre 210 ft. long by +175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince de Galles are artistic ruins +composed of ancient material gathered in this neighbourhood. They stand +in the spacious grounds of the superb villa Val Rose, which in shape +resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behind G. H. Windsor. The +first road right from the theatre leads to a Franciscan convent built in +1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. +<span class = "pagenum">178</span> +<a name = "page178" id = "page178"> </a> +<!-- png 224 --> +The altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were +painted by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only +artist of eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some +beautiful tombstones. In the centre of the “Place,” on a spiral marble +column, is a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican +feeding its young, a favourite Christian symbol of charity during +the Middle Ages.</p> + +<p>A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to <a href = +"#st_pons">St. Pons</a> (p. 179).</p> + +<p>At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first +hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and +separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in +the market for food.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_drives" id = "nice_drives"> +<span class = "headnote">Nice: Drives.</span></a></p> + +<p>The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. east, +either by the high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, +passing above Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises +much above the coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An +omnibus runs daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by +this road (see <a href = "#monaco">p. 187</a>).</p> + +<p>Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs.; ½ +hour’s rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the +Pont Neuf, near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) +start for Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. +On feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St. +Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H. Victoria, where +bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close +to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs. +Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the +omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with +2 horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt +Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a +coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Val-Obscur.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "val_obscur" id = "val_obscur"><b>Nice to the +Val-Obscur</b></a>, 4 m. N.—Take tram from the Place Massena to +St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa +Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by +the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the +left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the +water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but +as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the +conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards +long, between cliffs of an earthy +<span class = "pagenum">179</span> +<a name = "page179" id = "page179"> </a> +<!-- png 225 --> +conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high, and 7 ft. apart at their +narrowest point. By continuing this path for a little distance past a +house on the side of the hill, then crossing over by a path to the +right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a road ascends to +Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. above the sea, or +only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "vallon_fleurs" id = "vallon_fleurs"><b>Vallon des +Fleurs</b></a> ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive trees and its +wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the valley is about 10 +minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the tram. A path +leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads round by the +head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it joins nearly +opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the valley of the +Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For <a href = +"#cimies">Cimiès</a>, see p. 177.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nice_villa_clery" id = +"nice_villa_clery"> +<span class = "headnote">Nice: Villa Clery. St. Pons. Grotte St. +Andre.</span></a></p> + +<p>A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about +3¾ m. N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon +St. André. A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, +5 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs.; ½ hour’s stay +allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, +25 frs. When about 1½ m. up the Paillon there is a large gate which +gives access to the orchard of the Villa Clery, containing some orange +trees above 100 years old, yet in the whole plantation there is not one +well-developed specimen. The oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. +the 100, and packed and despatched to order. Almost opposite, on the +east side of the Paillon, are the more beautiful gardens and perfume +distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the hill (430 ft.), above the Clery +orchard, is seen the monastery of Cimiès, built in 1543 after the +original house, which stood near the Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed +by the Turks. The next large edifice passed on the west bank is the +monastery of <a name = "st_pons" id = "st_pons"><b>St. Pons</b></a>, +built in 775 by St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the +spot where the Roman senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor +is said to have spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In +890 it was destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, +Bishop of Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was +annexed to the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part +where the stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the +Place Massena, is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay +4 frs. per day, second 3 frs. A little higher up the +stream are the village, pop. 660, and (on a hill) the château of St. +André. The château is a plain house with a small chapel at the west end, +<span class = "pagenum">180</span> +<a name = "page180" id = "page180"> </a> +<!-- png 226 --> +fronted by a terrace built by the brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. +Part is occupied by a school and part is let. The chapel is now the +parish church. At the east end is a small petrifying spring. From the +château an avenue of ill-conditioned cypresses (the best have been cut +down) leads to the <a name = "grotte_st_andre" id = +"grotte_st_andre"><b>Grotte St. André</b></a>. Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a +natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high, through the limestone +rock, under which flows the stream St. André, dammed up at the outer end +to enable the man to take visitors through it in a boat. Near it are a +restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are sold.</p> + +<p>From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so +narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road +and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit +the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. +Those in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, +a village perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. +André.</p> + +<p><a name = "nice_observatory" id = "nice_observatory"><i>To the +Observatory</i></a>, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the +expense of M. Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of +the Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and +ascend by the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a +house, ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The +establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the +various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on +the west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and +46 broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end +dwelling-houses.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "nice_to_cuneo" id = "nice_to_cuneo"> +Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +(<a href = "#map163">Map, page 165</a>, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.)</p> + +<p><i>Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.</i>—Diligence from +Nice to St. Martin, 37 m. N. From St. Martin to Entraque, on +the north side of the Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal +to 25 m. From Entraque to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, +24 m. N. by coach.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Levens. Lantosque.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon, +and after passing the villages of <a href = "#grotte_st_andre">St. +André</a> (p. 179) and Tourette, near the ruins of Châteauneuf, +arrives at <a name = "levens" id = "levens"><b>Levens</b></a>, 1826 ft. +above the sea, pop. 1560, <i>Inn:</i> H. des Étrangers, where the +coach halts a short time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and +then descends into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, +where it passes through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, +pop. 1500. Then, after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed +the Vesubie, and passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. +from Nice, it reaches the village of <a name = "lantosque" id = +"lantosque"><b>Lantosque</b></a>, 28½ m. from Nice, 1640 +<span class = "pagenum">181</span> +<a name = "page181" id = "page181"> </a> +<!-- png 227 --> +ft. above the sea, pop. 1910, <i>Inn:</i> H. des Alpes Maritimes. +On a plateau 765 ft. above Lantosque, and 1¼ m. distant, is La +Bollène, with a large hotel, charmingly situated amidst hills covered +with chestnut trees. The coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on +the Vesubie, 3½ m. from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above +the sea. It is the station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with +a comfortable hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère. +<span class = "headnote float"> +St. Martin Lantosque.<br> +Col di Finestra.</span> +From Roquebillère the coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the +villages of Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to <a name = +"st_martin_lantosque" id = "st_martin_lantosque"><b>St. Martin +Lantosque</b></a>, 37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above +the sea. An ancient village at the junction of the Vesubie with the +Salèses. In the “Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn, +the H. des Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, +6 frs. Up by the side of the promenade are some good pensions. On +the opposite hill, ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is +the village of Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the +surrounding valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with +chestnut and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. +Martin commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the +Vesubie and the <a name = "col_finestra" id = "col_finestra"><b>Col di +Finestra</b></a>, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a fancied +resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide to +Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. up the Vesubie is the stone +which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. +farther the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. +above the sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the +remarkable <i>Saxifraga florulenta</i>, on the ridges of rock above the +sanctuary. Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged +peaks, and, in about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 +ft., is attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and +France. At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Valdieri.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the <a name = "valdieri" id = +"valdieri"><b>Baths of Valdieri</b></a>, about 20 m. distant, time +7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all the way to the Col de +Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther northward it crosses also +the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between two mountains, 8745 ft. +and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It then descends by a long +dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it turns eastwards to the river +Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From the baths a carriage-road +extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the village of Valdieri on +the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N. from the baths, and +7½ m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the picturesque +valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through the Borgo San +Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at the +junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta +road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it +ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows the +course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make +excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western +<span class = "pagenum">182</span> +<a name = "page182" id = "page182"> </a> +<!-- png 228 --> +Alps. In every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to +be found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, +the writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a +mountaineer need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being +accessible at seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most +other Alpine districts, this offers special attractions to the +naturalist. Within a narrow range may be found a considerable number of +very rare plants, several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The +geology is also interesting, and would probably repay further +examination. A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by +highly-inclined and much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably +include the entire series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous +rocks, in some parts overlaid by nummulitic deposits.” —<i>The +Western Alps</i>, by John Ball.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Puget-Theniers. Saint Sauveur.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "puget_theniers" id = "puget_theniers"><i>Nice to +Puget-Theniers</i></a>, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does not +become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the +junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and +where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. from Chaudan) meets the +Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop. 1450, +1476 ft. above the sea, <i>Inn:</i> *Croix de Malte) is a dirty village +on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of bare +precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes, pop. +1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., <i>Inn:</i> Ginié. The roads beyond are +traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. from +Puget.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On +the Tinée, 40½ m. N. from Nice, is <a name = "st_sauveur" id = +"st_sauveur"><b>Saint Sauveur</b></a>, pop. 800, <i>Inn:</i> Vial, with +Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating from 1309. Hot +and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock called the Guez. +From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by the Tinée to <a name += "st_etienne" id = "st_etienne_2">St. Etienne</a>, where there is an +inn. From St. Etienne, pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col +Valonet to Vinadio (see <a href = "#map163">map, p. 165</a>).</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "nice_to_turin" id = "nice_to_turin"> +Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m., 11 hours, +9 frs.; Tenda to Cuneo, 29 m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to +Turin, by rail, 3 hours (see maps, <a href = "#map163">pp. 165</a> and +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">107</a>). This is rather a +fatiguing journey. The most beautiful views are seen during the descent +from Tenda to the Mediterranean. <b>Nice.</b>—Start from the Place +St. François. The road ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the +villages of <a name = "trinite_victor" id = +"trinite_victor"><b>Trinité-Victor</b></a>, pop. 1300, and <b>Drap</b>, +pop. 800, with a sulphurous spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it +leaves the Paillon and crosses over to <b>Escarène</b> on the Braus, +12½ m. N.E. from Nice, pop. 1500. About 1½ m. farther is +<b>Touet</b>, pop. 400, whence commences the tedious ascent of the Col +di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine on the S. and Mt. Ventabren +on the N. The road now descends to <a name = "sospel" id = +"sospel"><b>Sospel</b></a>, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an +affluent of the Roja, 25½ m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach +daily to and from Menton, 14 m. S. The +<span class = "pagenum">183</span> +<a name = "page183" id = "page183"> </a> +<!-- png 229 --> +road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence passengers in this +direction have their last view of the Mediterranean. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Giandola.<br> +Saorgio.</span> +The descent is now made through bleak and barren mountains to <a name = +"giandola" id = "giandola"><b>Giandola</b></a>, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice, +1247 ft., at the base of lofty frowning rocks. <i>Inns:</i> Étrangers, +Poste. Coach daily between this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, +are Breglio, pop. 2580, and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The +road now ascends a narrow defile of the <a name = "roja" id = +"roja"><b>Roja</b></a>, which, suddenly widening, discloses <a name = +"saorgio" id = "saorgio"><b>Saorgio</b></a>, pop. 1600, 400 ft. above +the torrent, composed of parallel rows of dingy houses among almond and +olive trees. On the top of the hill is the castle of Malemort, destroyed +by the French in 1792. From this the valley contracts so much that the +road has repeatedly to cross and re-cross the river on its way to +Fontana on the Italian frontier, 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. +Luggage and passports are examined here. Almost the only habitat of the +curious plant <i>Ballota spinosa</i> is between Fontana and Breglio. The +road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m. N., passes through one of the +most formidable defiles in the Alps, the Gorge de Berghe, between steep +massive walls of igneous rock. “The bold forms of the cliffs, and the +luxuriant vegetation which crowns every height and fills every hollow, +make the scenery of this road worthy to compare with almost any other +more famous Alpine pass.” —<i>Ball</i>. At St. Dalmazzo is a +hydropathic establishment, pension 8 frs. Coach daily between +Ventimiglia and Tenda.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Limone. Cuneo.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from +Limone, is the village of <a name = "tenda" id = +"tenda"><b>Tenda</b></a>, pop. 1800; <i>Inn:</i> H. National; 2680 +ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja +at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the castle +of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her jealous and +tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare plants are to be +found on the rocks over the village. The village church (1476-1518) is a +good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The tunnel, opened in +1882—4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and 4331 ft. at the +Limone end—is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The Tenda end of the +tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the Cuneo end at the hamlet +La Panice. From La Panice the road descends rapidly by the Vermanagna to +<a name = "limone" id = "limone"><b>Limone</b></a>, 3668 ft., 63 m. +N.E. from Nice and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; <i>Inn:</i> H. de la +Poste; pleasantly situated in the valley of the Vermanagna, from which +an occasional glimpse may be had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, +after passing Robillante, Roccavione, and <b>Borgo-San-Dalmazzo</b>, +pop. 4600, arrives at <a name = "cuneo" id = "cuneo"><b>Cuneo</b></a>, +80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; +<i>Inns:</i> Barra di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the +confluence of the Stura with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is +Turin.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mondovi. Acqui.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The easiest way to go <a name = "savona_to_turin" id = +"savona_to_turin">to <b>Turin</b> from <b>Nice</b></a> is to take the +rail to Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and +Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the +Santuario di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for +poor devotees (<a href = "#page210">p. 210</a>). From Carru +station, 50 m. N., a branch line extends 8 m. S. +<span class = "pagenum">184</span> +<a name = "page184" id = "page184"> </a> +<!-- png 230 --> +to <a name = "mondovi" id = "mondovi"><b>Mondovi</b></a>, pop. 17,000, +on the Ellero. <i>Inns:</i> Croce di Malta; Tré Limoni d’Oro. From +Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. S., in the valley of +the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance, 8 frs.; cave, 2½ frs. +each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S.W. from Mondovi, and +about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the <b>Certosa di Val +Pésio</b>, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a hydropathic +establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. Pension, 8 to 10 +frs. It is well managed, and well situated for botanists, fishers, and +sketchers.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the +junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31 m. +N., traversing a picturesque country, between S. Giuseppe and +Acqui, where it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "acqui" id = "acqui"><b>Acqui</b></a>, pop. 8000, on the +Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from Alessandria. <i>Hotels:</i> +Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly round the Castello. On +the other side of the river is the bathing establishment, a large +building with abundant accommodation. The pension price per day is from +9 to 12 frs., including the use of the water, which, besides being +drank, is employed both in water and in mud baths. The waters are +sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and were known to the Romans under +the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of their times nothing exists but the +ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths of Acqui are remedies of +considerable power. The patient remains immersed for about half an hour +in the humus or mineralised mud of a temperature as hot as he can bear. +Immediately after he receives a warm mineral water bath. “The +therapeutic influence of this application is most evident in chronic +articular enlargements, rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, +intractable cases of secondary syphilis, and rheumatism.” —Dr. +Madden’s <i>Health Resorts</i>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Villefranche.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">142½</span> +<span class = "miles to">12½</span> +<a name = "villefranche" id = "villefranche"><b>VILLEFRANCHE</b></a>, +pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux at Nice, also by +rail. Station at the head of the bay. <i>Hotel:</i> Marine. Pleasant +boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. John and +the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of Cimiès and +Carabacel. 2 m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow bay, +2 m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +<b>Villefranche</b>, founded in the 13th cent. by Charles II., King +of Naples. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as +well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the +little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From +Villefranche commences the splendid <b>Road to Monaco</b>, 8 m. +long and 18 ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This +most enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the +precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche +by rail, or 1¾ by road, is</span></p> + +<!-- png 231 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 185</span> +<span class = "smallcaps">THE CORNICHE ROAD<br> +NICE to MENTON</span><br> +<a name = "map185" id = "map185" href = "images/map185.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map185thumb.png" width = "494" height = "224" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Beaulieu.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">143½</span> +<span class = "miles to">11½</span> +<a name = "beaulieu" id = "beaulieu"><b>BEAULIEU</b></a>, famed for its +large olive trees. A little above +<span class = "pagenum">185</span> +<a name = "page185" id = "page185"> </a> +<!-- png 232 --> +the station is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des +Anglais among “countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by +autumn’s blast or wintry skies.” Down towards the village is another old +olive tree, not far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco +road is the Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be +had. In the creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a +beautiful place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of +the Riviera, at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of +reddish sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with +trees, which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were +transparent; while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base +and struggle as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind +the olives, and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon +trees, bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall +shrubs hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny +creeks and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long +ledges of marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, +carpeted in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the +Posidonia Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of +the Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up +at various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree +evaporation.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Port of St. Jean.</span></p> + +<p>A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads +from Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the +peninsula to the <a name = "port_st_jean" id = "port_st_jean"><b>Port of +St. Jean</b></a>. The real carriage-road commences at the railway +bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to +St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The +continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse, +passing the signal-tower to the right.</p> + +<p>The port of St. Jean, <i>Inn:</i> H. Victoria, is used +principally by the tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes +a very pleasant residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated +among creeks and bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most +fertile part of the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the +peninsula of St. Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the +fortifications razed by the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient +crumbling masonry around belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, +whence they were driven in the 10th cent. “A fir-clad mound amid +the savage wild bears on its brow a village, walled and isled in lone +seclusion round its ancient tower. It was a post of Saracens, whose +<span class = "pagenum">186</span> +<a name = "page186" id = "page186"> </a> +<!-- png 233 --> +fate made them the masters for long years of lands remote and scattered +o’er a hundred strands.” —<i>Guido and Lita</i>, by the Marquis of +Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a cemetery, a church, 11th +cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and a battery.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_jean_lighthouse" id = +"st_jean_lighthouse"> +<span class = "headnote">Lighthouse.</span></a></p> + +<p>At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse +(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story +added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is +ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at +a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the +first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles +Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb +is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a +grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large +euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Petite Afrique. Eze.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "eze" id = "eze"> +EZE.</a></h5> + +<p>The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and +Eze, the next station, 2 m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. +The steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so +exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has +been called the <a name = "petite_afrique" id = +"petite_afrique"><b>Petite Afrique</b></a>. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt +termination of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the +sea, to which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to +pass through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the +equally picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a +phalanx of lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. +high) of one of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is +the nearly deserted village of <b>Eze</b>, pop. 770, with the ruins of +its castle founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, +recently restored, built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence +the name Eza or Eze is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the +castle, under the remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine +landscape displays itself, while inland is seen the Pass or highest part +(1750 ft.) of the Corniche road, which here crosses the ridge terminated +by Mt. Roux. At the Pass are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze +commences near the station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed +to the sun, and throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through +plantations of firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent +requires, doing it leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the +Corniche road, and another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to +Monaco. A little beyond Eze is the station for La Turbie.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">187</span> +<a name = "page187" id = "page187"> </a> +<!-- png 234 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Monaco.</span></p> + +<p>100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">149</span> +<span class = "miles to">6</span> +<a name = "monaco" id = "monaco"><b>MONACO</b></a> station, situated in +La Condamine. At the station (6) an omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco +on the top of the S.W. promontory, 195 ft. above the sea. For Monte +Carlo, on the top of the N.E. promontory, alight at the next station, +1¼ m. N.E.</p> + +<p><b>Monaco proper</b>, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid +view from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and +Muratore. Till the arrival of F. Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor +place, where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from +the produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches +of scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the +gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality, +wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished +anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its +stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with +plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid +hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been +built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few +years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat. +The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company +with the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in the +Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to +build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold +their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc.</p> + +<p>The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory +since 968, when the Emperor Otto I. gave it to Grimaldi I., +Lord of Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens +from the Grand-Fraxinet of <a href = "#st_tropez">St. Tropez</a> +(p. 145). The greatest length of the principality, from the +cemetery wall at the western extremity to the brook St. Roman at the +eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m., and the greatest breadth, +from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population 10,000, +distributed among four different centres—the city, or Monaco +proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They +are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupies +its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast +of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most +easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "monaco_palace" id = +"monaco_palace"> +Monaco: The Palace.</a></span> +At the landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which +the rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on +<span class = "pagenum">188</span> +<a name = "page188" id = "page188"> </a> +<!-- png 235 --> +certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date +from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more +modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle, +the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the +chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within +the entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side with +friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865, +representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a +horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an +arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni, +representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and +right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left +the first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin; +hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the +walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone. +Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., Prince of Monaco. +Ceiling painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings +and green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed +pictures representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red +furniture; style Louis XIII.</p> + +<p>Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York, +brother of George III.; red furniture and hangings; family +portraits, some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The +bedroom in which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered +scarlet satin; ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in +mosaic. Elegant bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low +screen. 3. Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. +Furniture and walls covered with white satin richly embroidered.</p> + +<p>The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very +pretty garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and +flowers. Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden.</p> + +<p>At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money +bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long, +and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view. +Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs, +and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la +Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on +the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They +spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or +<span class = "pagenum">189</span> +<a name = "page189" id = "page189"> </a> +<!-- png 236 --> +over the prickly pear plants, here very abundant. At this end is also +the Jardin St. Martin, a very pretty promenade, with charming +views. 500 yards west from the foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid +road to Villefranche, is the cemetery, whose wall forms the western +limit of the principality. Among the many tombs there is a beautiful +marble monument to Pierre and Modestine Neri, brother and sister.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Condamine. St. Devota.</span></p> + +<p>On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte +Carlo is <a name = "la_condamine" id = "la_condamine"><b>La +Condamine</b></a>, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable, +a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque +gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church, +on the spot where the body of <a name = "st_devota" id = +"st_devota"><b>Santa Devota</b></a>, a Roman martyr, the patroness +of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of Monaco, caused +the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for having stolen +the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the harbour and the +principal railway station, as well as the less expensive hotels, such as +the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works, and the +Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine; Étrangers; +Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in all, board and +lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H. Nice and Des +Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels: +Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame +Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the +Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still +higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of +France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane +leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels +marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous +company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms. +English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter +temperature, 49°.3. <i>Cabs.</i>—The course, within the +principality, 1½ fr.; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. +The omnibus that runs between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road +starts from the Casino (see <a href = "#nice_drives">page 178</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "monaco_monte_carlo" id = +"monaco_monte_carlo"> +<span class = "headnote">Monte Carlo. Gambling-Rooms.</span></a></p> + +<p>Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt +termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the +Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond +the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of +Focinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected +in 1862 by F. Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and +formerly the +<span class = "pagenum">190</span> +<a name = "page190" id = "page190"> </a> +<!-- png 237 --> +proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into +the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s +(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the +concert-room—a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with +gilt ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the +Muses and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned +arm-chairs covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied +by the orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued. +Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and +his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino. +The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about +three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance +are the <a name = "monaco_gambling_rooms" id = +"monaco_gambling_rooms">gambling-rooms</a> and the office where visitors +give their names and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms +are the tables for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which +the smallest sum admitted is 5 frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or +£240. The fourth room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and +Boulanger, representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, +fishers, archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to +trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and +the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the +tables.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Les Moulins.</span></p> + +<p>Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, +and under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting +gallery. Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and +footpaths ramify in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, +and along the coast either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent +coast-road to <a href = "#villefranche">Villefranche</a> (see +p. 184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is studded, even +beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas, partially hidden +among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern side of Monte Carlo +is <a name = "les_moulins" id = "les_moulins"><b>Les Moulins</b></a>, +now quite a town, with shops, hotels, restaurants, and furnished +lodgings. Up on the main road is the Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., +dear. Down below on the coast-road, fronting the sea, is a small house, +the Hôtel du Parc.</p> + +<p>At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to +that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in +the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one +can gamble on credit. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lemons" id = "lemons"> +Lemons.</a></span> +About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins by the main road is the +valley of +<span class = "pagenum">191</span> +<a name = "page191" id = "page191"> </a> +<!-- png 238 --> +St. Roman, with some very large olive and locust trees. In the +principality are also large groves of lemon trees. They flower and bear +fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons, which ripen in spring, are +called graneti, and those which ripen in summer verdami. They are the +juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the most suitable for +exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is that made from old +tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and olive trees is +composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse.</p> + +<p><i>Excursions.</i>—1640 feet above Monaco is <b>La Turbie</b>, +ascended by a road containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are +14 feet long by 9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the +most are in bad condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one +hour. It commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from +the railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three +restaurants—the France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most +frequented. Bedrooms, 2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful +after a hot climb. When up at La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus +to the little knoll close by and take a seat under the rock at the top, +whence “From ancient battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks +and curving bays.” But the one great view, which excels all the others, +is from the</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tête de Chien.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "tete_de_chien" id = "tete_de_chien"> +Tête de Chien.</a></h5> + +<p>The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +<b>La Turbie</b>. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the +top, permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow +of the mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a +splendid uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the +other places. From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, +town, village, cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the +western side the view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and +the Maure mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les +Moulins, Mt. de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, +Menton, Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, +which conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western +side embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of +St. Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, +Antibes, the lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel +mountains, and the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. +A good opera-glass should be taken. A stony road leads down +the west side of the Tête, through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco +road, which it joins near the battery (see <a href = "#map185">map, +p. 185</a>).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">192</span> +<a name = "page192" id = "page192"> </a> +<!-- png 239 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Turbie.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "la_turbie" id = "la_turbie"><b>La Turbie</b></a>, the +ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is a poor village, +composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways close to the +massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact for 1700 +years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a prince of +Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with excellent +water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of Turbie, at +the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to the sanctuary of +Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m. from Nice, +but scarcely 2 from La Turbie.</p> + +<p>The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the +long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the +Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that +from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony +paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie +reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the +Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into +a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the +Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one +half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les +Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar +of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the +remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to +the Corniche road (see <a href = "#map185">map, page 185</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">150¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">4¾</span> +<a name = "monte_carlo_stn" id = "monte_carlo_stn"><b>MONTE +CARLO</b></a> station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on +Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Roquebrune.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">152½</span> +<span class = "miles to">2½</span> +<a name = "roquebrune" id = "roquebrune"><b>ROQUEBRUNE</b></a> station, +where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the low road from +Menton.</p> + +<p><b>Roquebrune</b>, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the +sea, among great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road +a series of paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of +lemon trees. The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better +and more comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in +the neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace +is a small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the +great castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded +it to Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the +almost defaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the +armorial bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This +bishop is supposed to have been Augustine +<span class = "pagenum">193</span> +<a name = "page193" id = "page193"> </a> +<!-- png 240 --> +Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of France, who repaired this castle +in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to the top. “No warrior’s +tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’s challenge on the silence +falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their toil, and pluck in orange +groves the scented spoil from trees that have for purple mountains made +a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid.” —<i>Guido and +Lita</i>, by the Marquis of Lorne.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Menton. Hotels.</span></p> + +<p>699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½ m. N.E. +from Cannes, and 15½ m. N.E. from Nice, is</p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "menton" id = "menton"> +MENTON,</a></h5> + +<p>population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. <a name = +"menton_hotels" id = "menton_hotels"><i>Hotels and +Pensions.</i></a>—Commencing with those at the west end of the +Promenade du Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town +to the Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and +esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The +asterisk signifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the +price given that of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or +boarding-house. At the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion; +the H. St. George, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo; +²*P. Condamine; *H. et P. Londres. These 4 houses charge from +9 to 12 frs., W from 1½ to 2 frs. Near the Carrei and the +Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H. Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½ +fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the ²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½ +fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very sheltered promenade up the +eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where the band plays), built +over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. de Paris, 10-14 frs., W +1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d’Angleterre, 9-12 frs. Opposite, the +H. Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in the +busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs., +W 1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and +Tonin-Amaranté; and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. +Opposite, the ²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. de Menton, +all large good houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H. Menton is +patronised by Messrs. Cook. Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to +the sea, is the Midi, same price. We now enter the eastern or most +sheltered quarter, called the Garavan. The hotels are large and +first-class, and charge from 10 to 20 frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. +The most westerly is the H. Italie, and, about 100 feet up the bank +behind, the principal house of the hotel. A little farther east, on +the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue. Near the Belle-Vue, and on +<span class = "pagenum">194</span> +<a name = "page194" id = "page194"> </a> +<!-- png 241 --> +the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a benevolent home for ladies not +younger than 18 nor older than 40, who are received for 20s. +a week, which includes everything “except laundress and fire in +bedroom.” For conditions of admission apply to Ransom, Bouverie, and +Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30 Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or +Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh. Below, on the terrace along +the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining is the Paix, +a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais, the +H. et P. Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site, +Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des +Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais.</p> + +<p>Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the +shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just +behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the +first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), +*H. National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are +the Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; +the last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the +P. des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, +on the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l’Europe, +9-14 frs., W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the +H. and P. des Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include +service, coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never +wine, excepting the G. H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but +not coffee.</p> + +<p>Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders +the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of +the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys +watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30 +million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the +thousand.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Menton: Bankers. Churches. Conveyances.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "menton_banks" id = +"menton_banks"><i>Bankers.</i></a>—Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. +In the Av. Victor Emmanuel are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, +A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice. In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro +Bank and the English Consulate. <i>House Agents.</i>—G. Amaranté +and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av. V. Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. +Michel. English doctors, chemists, and grocers.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "menton_churches" id = "menton_churches"><i>Protestant +Churches.</i></a>—Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix; +St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H. Italie; +Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R. Partouneaux.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "menton_cabs" id = +"menton_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>—One-horse cab—the course, +1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs. Two-horse cab—the course, +1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c. A one-horse cab for +the whole day costs 20 frs.; a two-horse cab, 25 frs. Donkey for +the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs. the +hour.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">195</span> +<a name = "page195" id = "page195"> </a> +<!-- png 242 --> + +<p>Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. +Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two +smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built. +The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in +8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even +slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The +public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the +town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip +of ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. +Immediately behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs, +intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The +valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep, +badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.</p> + +<p>The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending +from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two +roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the +bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous +bone-caverns. The <i>débris</i> found in these caves, like the +shell-banks in the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste +accumulation from the food of the early inhabitants, together with the +stone implements they had employed. Four of the caves are above the +railway, a little beyond the viaduct under the Italian +custom-house, and two are just below the line close to the beach.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cape St. Martin. Gorbio. St. Agnès.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "cape_st_martin" id = "cape_st_martin"><b>Cape St. +Martin</b></a>, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The tram +stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from the +cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre, +consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that +remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From +this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive +trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are +the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of +<a href = "#st_honorat">St. Honorat</a> (p. 158). Afterwards the road +leading westward joins the carriage-way, which sweeps round the +peninsula. A stony path on the W. side, parallel to the road, +extends along the coast by the rocks and cliffs (see <a href = +"#map185">map, p. 185</a>).</p> + +<p><a name = "gorbio" id = "gorbio"><b>Gorbio</b></a>, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. +N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. above the sea. Take the +road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the entrance into the Villa +(Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of lemon and olive trees. When +about 1 hr. from the village the road +<span class = "pagenum">196</span> +<a name = "page196" id = "page196"> </a> +<!-- png 243 --> +becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. +500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the +stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, +steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the +little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end +of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the +tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The +rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends, +in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds +lovely views. <a name = "st_agnes" id = "st_agnes"><b>St. Agnès</b></a>, +pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea, or 330 ft. below the +mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle built in the 10th +cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path leads up +to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive prospect.</p> + +<p>From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the +village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side +of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of +execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of +much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the +traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed +of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion +should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Annonciade. Castellar.</span></p> + +<p>Convent and Chapel of the <a name = "annonciade" id = +"annonciade"><b>Annonciade</b></a>, 722 ft. above the sea, on the ridge +between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank of +the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel +Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of +the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this +easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the +convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.</p> + +<p><a name = "castellar" id = "castellar"><b>Castellar</b></a>, 1280 ft. +above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road commences from the +narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from the Place du +Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad highway which +skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with lemon and olive +trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream Menton. With a +few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the +plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village, +consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets lined with ugly dingy +houses, and terminating +<span class = "pagenum">197</span> +<a name = "page197" id = "page197"> </a> +<!-- png 244 --> +at the N. end with the parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church +are the crumbling ruins of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the +Byzantine Emperors. From the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm +trees, is a charming view. Here also the village feast-day is held on +the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the +ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent +prospect. Guide advisable.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bennet’s Garden.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "pont_st_louis" id = "pont_st_louis"><b>Pont St. +Louis</b></a>, <a name = "bennet_garden" id = +"bennet_garden"><b>Bennet’s Garden</b></a>, Hamlets of <a name = +"menton_grimaldi" id = "menton_grimaldi"><b>Grimaldi</b></a> and <a name += "menton_ciotti" id = "menton_ciotti"><b>Ciotti</b></a>.—At the +east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France and Italy, +a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge of +one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are an +Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet +Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, +the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper +entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The +garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is +chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full +bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are +charming.</p> + +<p>The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky +hill leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and +lemon trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and +having passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends +the hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), +consisting of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from +Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837 ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Mortola. Hanbury Grounds.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "la_mortola" id = "la_mortola"><b>La Mortola</b></a>, about +2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia omnibus passes through +Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of the <a name = +"hanbury_grounds" id = "hanbury_grounds"><b>Hanbury Grounds</b></a>, +consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach by terraces. Large +olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the more sheltered nooks +are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with the house, the +Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the Pergola, +a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive +pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. +Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent +view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, +is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the +highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time +and conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the +Palmaro Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The +<span class = "pagenum">198</span> +<a name = "page198" id = "page198"> </a> +<!-- png 245 --> +generous founder and father of the present owner died a few years ago. +Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of the most favoured little +valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an hour’s drive from +Bordighera.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Les Moulins. Monti. Hermit’s Grotto.</span></p> + +<p>The most important drive towards the interior is to <b>Sospel</b>, 14 +m. N., on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see +<a href = "#sospel">p. 182</a>). Excellent carriage-road all the way, +ascending by the western or railway station side of the Carrei. In the +lower part of the valley are large plantations of lemon trees. To the +left of the road near the octroi are Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with +four stages of water-wheels. 4 m. farther up the valley of the +Carrei, on a eminence considerably above the stream, are the church and +straggling village of <a name = "monti" id = "monti"><b>Monti</b></a>. +The bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to +Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, +opposite the part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, +is seen a small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This +bridge crosses the stream that forms the cascade called the +Gourg-d’Ora.</p> + +<p>About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an +almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window +or cavity called the <a name = "hermits_grotto" id = +"hermits_grotto"><b>Hermit’s Grotto</b></a>. Over the entrance is an +illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another +inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this +cave:—</p> + +<p class = "center smaller">CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO.<br> +1528.<br> +(Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)</p> + +<p>The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. +by 4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about +27 yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 +yds. long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the +opening. Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have +retired from grief.</p> + +<p>At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility +to take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, +hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign. +This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, +Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, +resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by +concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the +capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her +horse, and was forced to stop at an inn. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Robert de +<span class = "pagenum">199</span> +<a name = "page199" id = "page199"> </a> +<!-- png 247 --> +Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon +his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the +old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the +death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so overwhelmed with +grief that, with the consent of the Count of Boulogne, he resolved to +give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude, +a life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war with +the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret +Bernard.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Castellon. Climate.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near +the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the +walled town of <a name = "castellon" id = +"castellon"><b>Castellon</b></a> or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft +above the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, +pop. 320. 5¾ m. farther is <a href = "#sospel">Sospel</a>, pop. +3500 (p. 182).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "menton_climate" id = +"menton_climate"><i>Climate.</i></a>—Menton being protected by an +amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here +are generally milder.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any +period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, +must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the +leading characteristics of the climate of this region—the +Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who +want bracing, renovating—for the very young, the invalid +middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, +requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the +stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of +continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of +doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter +residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced pulmonary +consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now +surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. +This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by +rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of +nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus +brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating +food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician to attain this +end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera.” +—Bennet’s <i>Winter Climates</i>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +“With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain +shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to +the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these +directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the +weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sundown +steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean temperature of +November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. When the air is +still, a summer heat often prevails during the day, though in the +shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°.” +—<i>Wintering at Menton</i>, by A. M. Brown.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For the Excursions, see maps <a href = "#map163">pp. 163</a> and <a href += "#map185">185</a>.</p> + + +<!-- png 246 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 199</span> +ITALIAN RIVIERA, &c.<br> +<a name = "map199" id = "map199" href = "images/map199.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map199thumb.png" width = "488" height = "315" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">200</span> +<a name = "page200" id = "page200"> </a> +<!-- png 248 --> + +<h4><span class = "sans">THE ITALIAN RIVIERA,</span><br> +<span class = "smallcaps">or</span><br> +<a name = "menton_to_genoa" id = "menton_to_genoa"> +<b>Menton to Genoa.</b></a></h4> + +<p class = "center"> +By <span class = "smallcaps">Ventimiglia, Bordighera, San Remo</span>, +and <span class = "smallcaps">Savona</span>.</p> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Distance 100½ miles. See <a href = "#map199">accompanying Map</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles to">100½</span> +<b>MENTON.</b> The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the +bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.</p> + +<p>6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of +Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">6¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">93¾</span> +<a name = "ventimiglia" id = "ventimiglia"><b>VENTIMIGLIA</b></a>, pop. +8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. <i>Inns:</i> near station, the +Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. All the trains halt +here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or Italy is examined. The +new station is commodious. At one end of the luggage-room is a clock +with Paris time, and at the other one with the time of Rome, 47 minutes +in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms, +“Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment rooms are all at the French +end, as well as the way out to the train. The town is well seen from the +station. The church occupies a prominent position; and close to it, in +the Via Lascaris, are the post office, theatre, and the best café. The +walk up this same Via to the town-gate shows the best part of the town, +while the avenues in continuation beyond it lead up to the best sites +for views. Not far from the station, on the right bank of the Nervia, +<span class = "sidetrip"> +on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery, +which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What remains +of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from the +quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under the +direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province. +Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily between +Ventimiglia and <a href = "#tenda">Tenda</a>, p. 183.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bordighera.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">10</span> +<span class = "miles to">90½</span> +<a name = "bordighera" id = "bordighera"><b>BORDIGHERA</b></a>, pop. +2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is compactly built on the +summit of the eminence rising from the cape S. Ampeglio, whose +sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level +with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of the invalids reside, +though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. <i>Hotels:</i> the +best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a garden, +near the station. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Similarly situated is the +<span class = "pagenum">201</span> +<a name = "page201" id = "page201"> </a> +<!-- png 249 --> +¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 frs. Behind the Angleterre is +the Episcopal chapel. West from the Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 +frs. Immediately opposite station are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to +11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to 9 frs., and the Bordighera +bank, where money can be changed. Eastward are the hotels ²Victoria and +²Windsor. Admirably situated on an eminence overlooking the Moreno +palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P. Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it +is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs. At the commencement of the +Vallecrosia valley is a Home with industrial school for orphans of poor +Italian Protestants, founded by an English lady. Omnibus between +Bordighera and San Remo, passing through Ospedaletti, a beautiful +drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. +It passes through the low town of Ventimiglia and stops at the +commencement of the ascent to the high town.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose +tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale yellow +fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive +trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, after the olive, +is the most profitable tree.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To the <i>Tower of Mostaccini</i>, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada +Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This +tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as +an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a +delightful view of part of the coast.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Isola Buona.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the <a name = "nervia" +id = "nervia">valley of the Nervia</a>, 16 m. long from north to +south, with a varying breadth of 1½ to 2½ m. A good +carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. from +Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. +from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with the +Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th cent. +St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and on the +sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The +confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads +up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, +commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is +Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone bridge +with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses crowded +together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal castle of +the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese +in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera, is +<a name = "isola_buona" id = "isola_buona"><b>Isola Buona</b></a>, pop. +1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold +sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way up the Merdanio or +Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the +birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the most famous +of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as +directors of the observatory at Paris for four generations.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pigna.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is <a name = "pigna" id = +"pigna"><b>Pigna</b></a>, on the <b>Nervia</b>, +<span class = "pagenum">202</span> +<a name = "page202" id = "page202"> </a> +<!-- png 250 --> +at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village +where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber +from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose +window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the +apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the +church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and +picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous +spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near +Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of +Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., +to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by +Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is +the hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster +representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends +from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and +lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an +excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the Corniche road +bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills behind Ospedaletti, +about 2 m. N., is <a name = "la_colla" id = "la_colla"><b>La +Colla</b></a>, 1000 ft. above the sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable +collection of 120 paintings, mostly by great Italian masters, such as +Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano, F. Barocci, A. Carracci, +Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino, Sasso Ferrati, Reni, +Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. In another room is the +library. The pictures and books were collected by the Abbé Paolo +Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at his death (1864) +bequeathed them to this his native city. In the sacristy of the parish +church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with +some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this +quarter. A coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back +costs 20 frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary to +the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to +“wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St. +Peter’s. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from +Ospedaletti.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a +residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at +Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the +configuration of the coast into a west wind.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, as +also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of +Tabernacles.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Ospedaletti.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">13½</span> +<span class = "miles to">87</span> +<a name = "ospedaletti" id = "ospedaletti"><b>OSPEDALETTI</b></a>, pop. +1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage towards the sea, +from which it is separated by the railway. In the village is the ²H. and +P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. +<span class = "pagenum">203</span> +<a name = "page203" id = "page203"> </a> +<!-- png 251 --> +Upon an eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. +Adjoining is a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during +the day. The gambling is private, and on a small scale.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +San Remo. Hotels.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">16½</span> +<span class = "miles to">84</span> +<a name = "san_remo" id = "san_remo"><b>SAN REMO</b></a>, 16¼ m. E. from +Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter 18,000. As Italy is entered it +will be observed that the women, the maidens and their mothers, are the +hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the +menial work of the most laborious trades.</p> + +<p><a name = "san_remo_hotels" id = +"san_remo_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—Those with the figure ¹ are +first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that +they are especially good of their class. Commencing at the railway +station and going eastward by the principal street, the Via Vittorio +Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la Paix, close to the station and +fronting the public garden. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the +¹*H. San Remo; the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the +Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. +Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, frequented principally by commercial +travellers. Behind Squire’s is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little +farther west, left hand, the Post Office.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio +Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the +Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and the +Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings the +week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctors’ +fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except washing +and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & +Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front +to the sea and the other to the road—the ¹H. Méditerranée and the +¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, +are the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in +gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P. +Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German); +¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate); +¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on +this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant +walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the pension is from +9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo +and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and +Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see <a href = +"#map163">map, p. 165</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "san_remo_cabs" id = "san_remo_cabs"><i>Cab +Fares.</i></a>—The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and +1½ +<span class = "pagenum">204</span> +<a name = "page204" id = "page204"> </a> +<!-- png 252 --> +fr. night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ +fr. during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at +night, 4 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "san_remo_climate" id = +"san_remo_climate"> +<span class = "headnote">San Remo: Climate.</span></a></p> + +<p>Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot +of these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via +Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, +booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean +temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s +estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of +the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet +for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly +3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the +protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter +from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast +olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into +healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and +removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected +spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable +choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying +distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while +the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, +provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” —Williams’ +<i>Winter Stations</i>.</p> + +<p>San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as +at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on +terraces built up with low stone walls without plaster.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "san_remo_drives" id = +"san_remo_drives"> +<span class = "headnote">San Remo: Drives. Poggio. Madonna Della +Guardia.</span></a></p> + +<p>The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San +Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the +Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where +the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the +latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the +“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through +olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to +the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, +while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on +the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. <a name = "poggio" id = +"poggio"><b>Poggio</b></a>, one of the many wretchedly poor villages, +has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo +to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana. +<i>Inn:</i> H. Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. from San Remo, +commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of +wild flowers, form the principal +<span class = "pagenum">205</span> +<a name = "page205" id = "page205"> </a> +<!-- png 253 --> +attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to <a name = "ceriana" id += "ceriana"><b>Ceriana</b></a> and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs., +with ½ hr. rest. <a name = "madonna_della_guardia" id = +"madonna_della_guardia">The Madonna road</a> from Poggio is nearly +level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of +Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the +coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the +hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is +Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 +horse to the chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. +rest (see maps, <a href = "#map163">pp. 163</a> and <a href = +"#map199">199</a>).</p> + +<p>A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La +Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the +sea, and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, +8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See <a href = +"#page199">page 199</a>.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +San Romolo.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "san_romolo_to_mt_bignone" id = +"san_romolo_to_mt_bignone"> +St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.</a></h5> + +<p>One of the most frequented excursions is to <a name = "san_romolo" id += "san_romolo"><b>San Romolo</b></a>, 1700 ft. above the sea, and +4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place +St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of some +villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was +inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from +it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above +the sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the +ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the +left, and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path +ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or +about half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte +Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who +are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite +practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat +trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is +exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost +every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with +amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it +runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and +rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after +an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the +broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the +ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, +and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable +<span class = "pagenum">206</span> +<a name = "page206" id = "page206"> </a> +<!-- png 254 --> +lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of +more than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the +beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and +in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte +Rotondo; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the +western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero +surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther +away, the mountains of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast +successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes +and even the Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with +on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di +Lampeduza, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the +east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di +Levante, with the Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a +broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of mountains +still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these +again, the snow-capped Alps stretching away in the one direction towards +the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into +the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is +seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, +Apricale; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the +tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great altitude. There +is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where +accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night; whence +the return home can then be made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, +altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the +<a href = "#nervia">Nervia</a>, see p. 201, and <a href = +"#map163">map, p. 165</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "monte_bignone" id = "monte_bignone"> +<span class = "headnote">View from Monte Bignone.</span></a></p> + +<p>“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of +the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must +be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in +Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with +ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair +health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare +and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a +lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue +Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is +sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens +Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the +Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit +<span class = "pagenum">207</span> +<a name = "page207" id = "page207"> </a> +<!-- png 255 --> +of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, +Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a +species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia; +Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne +laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found +in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks +previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of +Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower the +large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the +species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” +—<i>San Remo and the Western Riviera</i>, by Dr. Hassall.</p> + +<p><a name = "san_remo_to_taggia" id = "san_remo_to_taggia"><b>San Remo +to Taggia</b></a>, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, +12 frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or +from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey +from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia, +formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or +Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the +east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, +whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di +Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road +ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of +Badalucco.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Taggia.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">21½</span> +<span class = "miles to">79</span> +<a name = "taggia" id = "taggia"><b>TAGGIA</b></a>, pop. 5000, on the +Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus awaits passengers +(½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at the +termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar, +situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about ½ +hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy +sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, +with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At +No. 1 Via Soleri—the principal street in the town—is the +habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering +the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to +the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the +beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the +ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail +is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like +that of San Remo.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Porto Maurizio. Oneglia.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">31</span> +<span class = "miles to">69½</span> +<a name = "porto_maurizio" id = "porto_maurizio"><b>PORTO +MAURIZIO</b></a>, pop. 8000. <i>Hotels:</i> France; Commerce.</p> + +<p><a name = "oneglia" id = "oneglia"><b>Porto Oneglia</b></a>, pop. +8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most +important part of San Maurizio is the high town, +<span class = "pagenum">208</span> +<a name = "page208" id = "page208"> </a> +<!-- png 256 --> +containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double +row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior +represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this +coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly +finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided +into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with +attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are +covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the +edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly +hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows +and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, +connects Porto Maurizio with <b>Oneglia</b>, about a mile distant, +beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace +of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we +reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is +covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence +overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full +of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way +to</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Alassio.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "alassio" id = "alassio"><b>Alassio</b></a>, pop. 5000, a +new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and 56 m. west +from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a high wall, +with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. <i>Hotels:</i> H. et +P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the +E. end, the *G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at +the W. end, the H. Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, +the Episcopal chapel.</p> + +<p>Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from +some of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the +chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways +extend up the hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano +and Ceriale, or up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns +are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. +Between Alassio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of +Gallinaria, with a castle on the summit of the hill.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Albenga.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "albenga" id = "albenga"><b>Albenga</b></a> is 4 m. N. from +Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast. +<i>Hotels:</i> Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. Their omnibuses await +passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the +Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad valley watered +by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and +there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as +espaliers. A good carriage-road +<span class = "pagenum">209</span> +<a name = "page209" id = "page209"> </a> +<!-- png 257 --> +extends up the valley of the Nerva and across the Col di +S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio and the valley of the +Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.</p> + +<p>After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the +beach at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the +Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, +orange, and lemon trees, principally at the eastern end, round the +cape.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Finalmarina. Noli.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">59½</span> +<span class = "miles to">41</span> +<a name = "finalmarina" id = "finalmarina"><b>FINALMARINA</b></a>, pop. +3500. <i>Hotel:</i> Garibaldi. The church of St. John the Baptist, after +the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles of various +hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand +combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church +S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The +pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great +deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the +valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th +cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles +N. from Finalmarina is <a name = "noli" id = "noli"><b>Noli</b></a>, +pop. 1000, <i>Inn:</i> Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the +arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under +the protection of Genoa, is still partially surrounded by walls +garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow +parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele II., which +commences at the beach on E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and +traverses the town to the W. side by the new church. The continuation, +outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered +with vines, olives, and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the +ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old +church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fishing is the chief industry. +A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno.</p> + +<!-- png 259 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 211</span> +<span class = "smallcaps">GENOA and SAVONA<br> +to SESTRI-LEVANTE</span><br> +<a name = "map211" id = "map211" href = "images/map211.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map211thumb.png" width = "424" height = "253" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Savona.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">74</span> +<span class = "miles to">26½</span> +<a name = "savona" id = "savona"><b>SAVONA</b></a>, pop. 17,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di Teatro; +*Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. In the +ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his spoils +after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now modern, +consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad streets +lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in enormous +square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the Rupe di +S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by +the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are small +harbours with shallow water. The +<span class = "pagenum">210</span> +<a name = "page210" id = "page210"> </a> +<!-- png 258 --> +<a name = "savona_cathedral" id = +"savona_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, built in 1604, is, in the +interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades +of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The +two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the western end, are +by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is +a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the Sistina chapel, is +the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius II. +In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on +entering, a “Nativity” by A. Semini. The figure of the Virgin +appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are +admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an +“Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a triptych. In a +small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the altar within a +niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the +sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. The +Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV., and +Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona. +4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra +Signora di Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered +with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the +intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, +91 m. northwards (see <a href = +"#savona_to_turin">p. 183</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Albissóla.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">77</span> +<span class = "miles to">23½</span> +<a name = "albissola" id = "albissola"><b>ALBISSÓLA</b></a>, pop. 2000, +on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina. +4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is <a name = "varazze" id = +"varazze"><b>Varazze</b></a>, pop. 10,000, a pleasant town at the +head of a large bay. A little shipbuilding is carried on here. +Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange groves. This is the birthplace of +Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the <i>Golden Legend</i>, the reading +of which was the principal means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an +intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. +N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is +another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most +picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating +point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, +cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of +<i>Phillyrea angustifolia</i>, with here and there just enough olive +trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate. +About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of +Inoria.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cogoleto. Columbus.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">85</span> +<span class = "miles to">15½</span> +<a name = "cogoleto" id = "cogoleto"><b>COGOLETO</b></a>, pop. 1000. +From the station walk down to the town; and on reaching the main street, +the Via Cristoforo Colombo, +<span class = "pagenum">211</span> +<a name = "page211" id = "page211"> </a> +<!-- png 260 --> +turn to the left. In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the +<a name = "columbus" id = "columbus">house of Columbus</a>, with the +following inscription:—</p> + +<div class = "verse"> +<p>Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;</p> +<p class = "inset">Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!</p> +<p>Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere.</p> +</div> + +<p>It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the +other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That +in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the +adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where +it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a +continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this +sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast +continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances, +they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious +nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of +Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of +Cogoleto. <a href = "#map199">Map, p. <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘220’">199</ins></a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arenzano. Pegli.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">87¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">13¼</span> +<a name = "arenzano" id = "arenzano"><b>ARENZANO</b></a>, pop. 5000. +*H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of the cleanest +towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque country and +commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between Arenzano and +Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">91¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">8¾</span> +<a name = "voltri" id = "voltri"><b>VOLTRI</b></a>, and the next town, +Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and shipbuilding are the principal +industries. <a href = "#map199">Map, p. <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘220’">199</ins></a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">95</span> +<span class = "miles to">5½</span> +<a name = "pegli" id = "pegli"><b>PEGLI</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>A winter +station.</i> The largest hotel is the *H. Pegli et de la +Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other to the public +garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15 frs. On the beach +the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little village, +prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant +communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of +the grounds around the <a name = "villa_pallavicini" id = +"villa_pallavicini"><b>Villa Pallavicini</b></a>, ornamented with +statues of Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an +obelisk. But the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with +large stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded +by evergreen shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully +pretty vistas. At one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, +although many miles distant. All this has been created on the formerly +sterile side of a hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of +water and of soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused +to tumble down the mountain in cascades +<span class = "pagenum">212</span> +<a name = "page212" id = "page212"> </a> +<!-- png 261 --> +into the lake, which had to be lined with porcelain to retain it. The +cave was then built of brick, and covered with consummate art with +stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed in a boat about this +most curious piece of land and water. In other parts there are a +multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, and in beautiful +peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, 1 fr.; for +party, 2 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sestri-Ponente. Cornigliano.</span></p> + +<p>1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is <a name = +"sestri_ponente" id = "sestri_ponente"><b>Sestri-Ponente</b></a>, pop. +10,800. <i>Hotel:</i> *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with +commodious bathing establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, +composed of small pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be +brought to bedroom every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the +trams pass by the gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly +gilt and covered with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are +painted statues of the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better +winter station than the next town, <a name = "cornigliano" id = +"cornigliano"><b>Cornigliano</b></a>, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., +with sheltered garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are +considered from 4° to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden +gate of both hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the +populous suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal +railway station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the +terminus of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa.</span></p> + +<!-- png 264 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 214</span> +<a name = "map214" id = "map214" href = "images/map214.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map214thumb.png" width = "463" height = "336" +alt = "plan of Genoa" title = "GENOA"></a> +</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MENTON</span> +<span class = "miles from">100½</span> +<a name = "genoa" id = "genoa"><b>GENOA</b></a>, pop. 145,000. The +hotels most conveniently situated for visitors are the G. H. de +Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari, opposite the theatre and +the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15 frs., No. 7 Via +di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the post; the +*Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the Piazza +Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above are in +a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port in the +Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who have to +embark, are—taking them in the order from W. to E.—the Croix +de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the +*H. Trombetta, and the *France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By +the side of the last two hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood +of the Bourse are the best money-changers.</p> + +<p>For <b>Genoa to Turin</b>, see <a href = "#genoa_to_turin">p. +279</a>.</p> + +<p>Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards +from the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad +street Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian +churches. Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli +Orefici by the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere +<span class = "pagenum">213</span> +<a name = "page213" id = "page213"> </a> +<!-- png 262 --> +della Maddalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At +No. 17 of that Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: Cafés. Cabs. Steamers.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "genoa_cafes" id = "genoa_cafes"><i>Cafés.</i></a>— +*Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle Nazioni, Via +Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. <b>The principal sights</b> are the +church of the <a href = "#genoa_annunziata">Annunziata</a>, p. 212; +the Cemetery approached by the Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de +Ferrari; the Palaces between the railway station and the Piazza Nuova. +The church of <a href = "#genoa_sta_maria">Santa Maria in Carignano</a>, +approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari, passing +through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea (p. 218). +North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the Museum of +Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di +Circonvallazione.</p> + +<p>Florio-Rubattino have <a name = "genoa_steamers" id = +"genoa_steamers">steamers</a> to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari, +Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily. +Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania, +Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English +steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean, +apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo.</p> + +<p><a name = "genoa_cabs" id = "genoa_cabs">1-horse cabs</a>—the +course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½ hour, 80 c. 2-horse +cabs—the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every successive ½ +hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each. Rail +from <a href = "#genoa_to_turin">Genoa to Turin</a>, 104 m. N.W. +(p. 279).</p> + +<p>Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo +Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.</p> + +<p>Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving +ground, rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500 +to 600 feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets +from 6 to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be +cut in them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di +Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos” +skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza +Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to +the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the +upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di +Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of +Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style—gates 40 +feet high, with marble columns—courts paved with various coloured +marbles—broad staircases, all of marble—rooms 30 feet high +with arched ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, +crystal lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels +<span class = "pagenum">214</span> +<a name = "page214" id = "page214"> </a> +<!-- png 263 --> +divided by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings +in oil. The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a +continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the +west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "genoa_palaces" id = "genoa_palaces"> +<span class = "headnote">Genoa: Palaces. Palazzo Doria.</span></a></p> + +<p>The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of +art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty +staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo +Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via +Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces +are remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient to leave with the +keeper of the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms +provided with a list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on +a card, which makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and +guides.</p> + +<p>As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and +the cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after +having visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot +of the Via S. Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, +round by the ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria +di Carignano.</p> + +<p>The only palace west from the station is the <a name = +"genoa_pal_doria" id = "genoa_pal_doria"><b>Palazzo Doria</b></a>, +reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by +Perino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to the +paintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeating +the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the +entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea +Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the +garden, on the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of +Hercules, erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog +Rolando, given him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the +title of “Il Principe.” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San +Matteo, and over the altar the sword presented to him by +Paul III.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: Via Milano.</span></p> +<p>Adjoining the Doria palace is the <a name = "genoa_via_milano" id = +"genoa_via_milano"><b>Via Milano</b></a>, a terraced promenade +lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more +costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking +<i>eastward from the station</i> the first large building is the Royal +Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the +Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P. F. Cantone and +J. A. Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been +so greatly admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The +accommodation is extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the +principal +<span class = "pagenum">215</span> +<a name = "page215" id = "page215"> </a> +<!-- png 265 --> +reception hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are +indifferent.</p> + +<p>The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of +B. Bianco, and improved by P. A. Corradi, contains a large +collection of paintings—among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a +St. Jerome, by Guido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by +Tizziano; a St. George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by +<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Coreggio’">Correggio</ins>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: P. Durazzo Pallavicini.</span></p> + +<p>No. 1 Via Balbi is the <a name = "genoa_pal_durazzo" id = +"genoa_pal_durazzo"><b>P. Durazzo Pallavicini</b></a>, one of the most +important to visit. The architect was B. Bianco, but the vestibule +and staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by +A. Tagliafico. The paintings are almost entirely by Italian +masters, such as Molinaretti, Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, +Lanfranco, Procaccini, Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, +Vercelli, Reni, Merone, Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first +room there is a valuable triptych by A. Durer, and the gem of the +collection, James I. of England and Family, by Van Dyck. In the +reception room are other three choice works by the same master. The +frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, Davolio, and Bazzani. In each +room there are cards with the names of the artists and subject.</p> + +<p>From the Via Balbi we pass into the <a name = "genoa_annunziata" id = +"genoa_annunziata"><b>Piazza dell’ Annunziata</b></a>, with, on the left +hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa, built in +1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its present state +by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six stately marble +columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty, and resplendent +with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the entrance is +Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on the cupola +are by A. Ansaldi, those on the choir by J. Benzo, and the +remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things +are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and +the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for +Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes.</p> + +<p>We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to <a name += "genoa_san_siro" id = "genoa_san_siro"><b>San Siro</b></a>, which was +the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar is by Puget. The +fresco on the roof by G. B. Carlone. The marble columns are all of +one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6 Piazza +Pellicceria, is the <b>Palazzo Spinola</b>, with many beautiful +paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by +Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino, +a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin +<span class = "pagenum">216</span> +<a name = "page216" id = "page216"> </a> +<!-- png 266 --> +by L. Giordano, the Last Supper by G. C. Procaccini, +S. Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family by Albani, the Four +Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem of the +collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by Tavarone, +G. Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: Palazzo Rosso.</span></p> + +<p>In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the <a name = "genoa_pal_rosso" id = +"genoa_pal_rosso"><b>Palazzo Rosso</b></a> (Galleria Brignoli), with a +small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian masters, +distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn, and +Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and Carloni. It +contains also a good library.</p> + +<p>No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the <a name = "genoa_municipio" id = +"genoa_municipio"><i>Municipicio</i></a> or City Chambers, +a splendid building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes +representing incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and +galleries are open to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala +Rossa, and the Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a +portrait of Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing +him in the presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among +other paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A. Durer, and in the +third (the Sala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect +was Rocco Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by +G. T. Carlone, and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, +and M. Canzio.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: Palazzo Serra.</span></p> + +<p>At No. 12 Via Nuova is the <a name = "genoa_pal_serra" id = +"genoa_pal_serra"><b>P. Serra</b></a>, built, like most of the other +palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect +Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments +are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the +brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber, +representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of +Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect +Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste. +But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon, +shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt, +alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The +architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the +roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks. +The roof of the next room was painted by A. Semini.</p> + +<p>The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though +smaller display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of +No. 5 in this same street, the <a name = "genoa_pal_spinola" id = +"genoa_pal_spinola"><b>P. Spinola</b></a>.</p> + +<p>At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and +splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by +<span class = "pagenum">217</span> +<a name = "page217" id = "page217"> </a> +<!-- png 267 --> +P. Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and +Tintoretto. We now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, +the principal theatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle +Arti, where young men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and +sculpture. Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram +stops at the cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of +Carignano.</p> + +<p>The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to <a name = +"genoa_san_matteo" id = "genoa_san_matteo"><b>S. Matteo</b></a>, built +in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G. A. Montorsoli at the request of +Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on +the church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of the +church belonged to the Doria family.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: S. Ambrogio. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p>In the Piazza Nuova is <a name = "genoa_san_ambrogio" id = +"genoa_san_ambrogio"><b>S. Ambrogio</b></a>, entirely covered with +beautiful marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of +the Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the +Assumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one +possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same +master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and +Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former <a name = +"genoa_pal_ducal" id = "genoa_pal_ducal"><b>Ducal Palace</b></a>, now +the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is ornamented +with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena marble. From +the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed by Guglielmo +Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used by Godfrey de +Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the <a name = +"genoa_cathedral" id = "genoa_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, built in +the 11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are +of black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of +three large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The +arch of the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled +work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. +In the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is +separated from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed +arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the +choir has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed +in the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is <i>the +chapel of St. John the Baptist</i>, in the centre of the left aisle. It +was built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and +M. Civitali, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in +his official robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by +four porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to +contain the ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in +<span class = "pagenum">218</span> +<a name = "page218" id = "page218"> </a> +<!-- png 268 --> +1097. At the end of the right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with +a Crucifixion by Van Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once +famous under the name of the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found +at Cæsarea, in Palestine, and tradition asserted that it had been +presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, and that out of it the +Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb with his disciples. It was believed +to be of emerald; and a law was passed in 1476, declaring that if any +one applied a hard substance to the vase he should suffer death, because +it was suspected that the material was only glass.</p> + +<p>Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a +cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola +Gardens to the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful +views of Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, +passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Genoa: S. Maria. Campo Santo, or Cemetery.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "genoa_sta_maria" id = "genoa_sta_maria"><b>S. Maria in +Carignano,</b></a> built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo Alessi, is +165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above the +entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four colossal +statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by Puget; the +other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings (covered) +are—St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and Charles by +Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross by +Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the highest +gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an excellent +stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square goes to +the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill at the +N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine +view.</p> + +<p>About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +<a name = "genoa_campo_santo" id = "genoa_campo_santo"><b>Campo +Santo</b></a>, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ +hour from the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs +parallel to the Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and +inequalities of the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.</p> + +<p>The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and +820 ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span +of 21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three +coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room +enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The +poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded +by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all +that money can command in talented sculpture is made to +<span class = "pagenum">219</span> +<a name = "page219" id = "page219"> </a> +<!-- png 269 --> +do service to the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the +memory of those they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. +These lovely statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than +the medley contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise +other two galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another +large piece of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and +approached by 77 long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of +dark greenstone from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, +consisting of a great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one +block of black marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior +are colossal statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade +rests on six white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure +of galleries, stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults +for the dead. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "genoa_albergo_poveri" id = +"genoa_albergo_poveri"> +Genoa: Albergo dei Poveri.</a></span> +At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse, +<b>Albergo dei Poveri,</b> 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di +Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing +accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large +establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "genoa_to_pisa" id = "genoa_to_pisa"> +The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.</a></h5> + + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps, <a href += "#map199">pages 199</a> and <a href = "#map211">211</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles to">102½</span> +<b>GENOA.</b>—The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, +with the exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated +between Nervi and Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and +sheltered from the N. winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the +base with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones +with olive, peach, and fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to +take advantage of the superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in +the choice of a site for a villa on Cape Portofino. <a href = +"#map211">Map, p. 211</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nervi.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">7½</span> +<span class = "miles to">95</span> +<a name = "nervi" id = "nervi"><b>NERVI</b></a>, pop. 8000. *H. et +P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large garden, 8 to 15 frs. +H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to 12 frs. On +the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et +P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., +including wine; admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and +at the terminus of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to +8 frs. Opposite, the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English +doctors. Episcopalian service.</p> + +<p>Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous +narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and +<span class = "pagenum">220</span> +<a name = "page220" id = "page220"> </a> +<!-- png 270 --> +walls. On the S. side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with +olive trees and studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. +from Nervi is <a name = "santa_margherita" id = +"santa_margherita"><b>Santa Margherita Ligure</b></a>, pop. 5000. +*H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs. A charmingly situated +town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the neighbourhood is the +sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful gardens. The +prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the village and +promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the villa +Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the promontory +the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing village of +Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">18½</span> +<span class = "miles to">84</span> +<a name = "rapallo" id = "rapallo"><b>RAPALLO</b></a>, pop. 6000. +H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a small bay. +A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the many +pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low +road skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle +longer.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chiávari.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">24¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">78¼</span> +<a name = "chiavari" id = "chiavari"><b>CHIÁVARI</b></a>, pop. 12,000, +at the mouth of the Entella. <i>Inns:</i> Albergo della Fenicé; Locanda +Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the best towns on the coast, +with well-paved and arcaded streets, substantial houses, and handsome +churches containing a few valuable pictures. The most profusely +ornamented is, close to the station, the church of the Virgin of Orta, +whose “sacred” picture hangs over the high altar. Chiávari manufactures +lace and chairs of light wood with twisted straw seats, plain and +coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the organ-grinders are said +to hail from this town. 4½ m. from Chiávari, across the Lavagnaro, +is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. <i>Hotels:</i> Grand Hotel, with +palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this pleasant place, +the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay terminating with +a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand view. Shortly +after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf of Spezia +comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the island of +Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief of which +is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Spezia.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">56½</span> +<span class = "miles to">46</span> +<a name = "spezia" id = "spezia"><b>SPEZIA</b></a>, pop. 11,500, 1 m. +from station. Spezia, although near good scenery, has nothing attractive +itself; neither does it make a suitable winter residence. It has some +excellent hotels bordering the spacious corso along the beach, the best +being the “Croce di Malta,” a large and handsome building, 10 to 15 +frs. Then follow the H. +<span class = "pagenum">221</span> +<a name = "page221" id = "page221"> </a> +<!-- png 271 --> +National; the Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all +first-class, but the Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, +1½ fr. per hour; with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a +station of the Italian navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and +largest in the world. Napoleon I. intended to have made it the +Mediterranean harbour of France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest +side of the town, occupies 150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in +the bay of S. Vito, cover an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of +the bay is the picturesque Porto Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, +8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs. +The marble of Porto Venere is black, with gold-coloured veins.</p> + +<p>“To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte +Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the +Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte +Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand +panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of +Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While +the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern +and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which +renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the +Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia +valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that +time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite +excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about +6 m. S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in +a most sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the +sun has set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian +villa, which Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, +near the village.” —<i>The Riviera</i>, by Dr. Sparks. After +Spezia, the train crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy +and Liguria, and arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sarzana.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">67¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">34¾</span> +<a name = "sarzana" id = "sarzana"><b>SARZANA</b></a>, pop. 11,200. +<i>Hotels:</i> New York; Londres. This ancient town, with the +picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the Grand Duke +of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese in +exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the +birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447 +elected pope under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted +his native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and +founder of the Vatican library.</p> + +<p>The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed +<span class = "pagenum">222</span> +<a name = "page222" id = "page222"> </a> +<!-- png 272 --> +to Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, +partly of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first +street right, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen +minutes’ farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, +a beautiful though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill +overlooking the railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, +and well seen from the station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Avenza. Carrara.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">74</span> +<span class = "miles to">31</span> +<a name = "avenza" id = "avenza"><b>AVENZA</b></a>. Station for Carrara, +3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also for Carrara await passengers at +the station. Fare, 5 fr.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "carrara" id = "carrara"><b>Carrara</b></a> (pop. 14,000), +situated on the Carrione, formed by the union of the Torano, +Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys with valuable +marble strata. <i>Hotels:</i> The Nazionale, close to the theatre; The +Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the Accademia. Near the +Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the station great blocks +of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing the bridge by Walton’s +marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza +Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. Near the +right side of this piazza are the two hotels. The road to the left leads +up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of +the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara. The valley now becomes +narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more +numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. To the left rises +Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di +Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans +procured statuary marble, and which still continue to yield some of the +finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which there are 400, +employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the mountains. The +ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris. The nearest and the +easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The other quarries are in +the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent the Fantiscritti. In +the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been found. Any boy will do to +show the way to the rivers Carrione and Torano, and when there it is +impossible to go wrong; but to visit any particular mines a guide is +necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common road there is a railway for +the conveyance of marble blocks from the valley of the Torano to the +Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique Roman statues are of marble from +Carrara, anciently called Luni. The marble of which the Greek statues +are made is from Paros, and from Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara +is a healthy and busy town, not troubled in the least with mosquitoes in +winter and spring. The great business of the town is the transporting +and dressing of marble; and the principal establishments the studios of +the artists, where statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are +sculptured and exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior +walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is +<span class = "pagenum">223</span> +<a name = "page223" id = "page223"> </a> +<!-- png 273 --> +nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies of +the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found chiefly in +the mines of Fantiscritti.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">78¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">26¾</span> +<a name = "massa" id = "massa"><b>MASSA</b></a> is about a mile from the +railway, by a good road, at the foot of Mt. Castagnola, which, with the +still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. Tambura and Rotondo, protect it +from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one +of the winter stations on the Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the +vigorous orange trees in the gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are +many pleasant walks, both on the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel +Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, although a plain house, is clean, and is +kept by kindly people. The town is quiet; there are a few workers and +dealers in marble, but the principal occupation is agricultural. The +ducal palace in the square was once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, +Napoleon’s sister. Valuable marble quarries. Pop. 5000.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">84¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">20¾</span> +<a name = "pietrasanta" id = "pietrasanta"><b>PIETRASANTA</b></a>, pop. +1000. <i>Inn:</i> Europa. A poor town, with marble works near the +station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On the first +large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in it +Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovi +contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze.” +S. Martino (13th cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found +in nearly all the churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance +opposite the Campanile (1380) is a font about the same period. In the +interior of the church are handsome marble columns, confessionals, +pulpit, and font. The domes and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is +the Uffizio Municipale, with, in front, a statue to +Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino (14th cent.), all +within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood are quicksilver +and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble quarries.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Viareggio.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "miles from">90¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">14¼</span> +<a name = "viareggio" id = "viareggio"><b>VIAREGGIO</b></a>, pop. +20,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine; Commercio. +A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa and +Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast on +this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake +Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about +6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pisa.</span></p> + +<!-- png 275 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 224</span> +<a name = "map224" id = "map224" href = "images/map224.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map224thumb.png" width = "320" height = "482" +alt = "plan of Pisa" title = "PISA"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pisa: Piazza del Duomo. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>GENOA</span> +<span class = "miles from">105</span> +<a name = "pisa" id = "pisa"><b>PISA</b></a>, pop. 26,300. +<i>Hotels:</i> On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’ Arno Regio, the +*Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to station, right hand, +the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; +<span class = "pagenum">224</span> +<a name = "page224" id = "page224"> </a> +<!-- png 274 --> +left hand, Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. +On the left side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. +Cab-stand at the station. <i>Fares.</i>—From the station to the +cathedral, with from one to two passengers, 1 fr.; from three to +four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The hour, 2 fr. From the station go +straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to the Arno, where cross the +bridge and walk down the river to the fifth street right, the Via Santa +Maria, crossed by an arch at the commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads +directly to the <a name = "pisa_piazza_duomo" id = +"pisa_piazza_duomo"><b>Piazza del Duomo</b></a>, containing, in a row, +the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery, and immediately +behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes considerably effaced, yet +valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of the 14th and 15th +centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "pisa_cathedral" id = +"pisa_cathedral"><i>Cathedral</i></a>, commenced in 1063 by the Greek +architect Buschetto, was completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with +a range of blind arches decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open +arcades, similarly constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the +beautiful bronze doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the +southern entrance by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of +figures in delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and +various other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, +fruits, and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and +of the transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. +A double row of columns runs up the nave, and a single row along +the transepts and choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the +rest (14) of fine marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on +them are semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and +black marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars +are by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite +each other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the +transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the +fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the +ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a +colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the +paintings are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs. +Here also are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by +Beccafumi, and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. +Upon a pier of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on +the corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del +Vaga. In the right +<span class = "pagenum">225</span> +<a name = "page225" id = "page225"> </a> +<!-- png 276 --> +transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb of +S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga +and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy +Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but +have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while +a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp +suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are +synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pisa: Leaning Tower. Baptistery.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "pisa_leaning_tower" id = +"pisa_leaning_tower"><i>Campanile</i></a> or leaning tower is a +cylindrical edifice built of square blocks of compact marble, and +consisting of a well-designed solid basement, 159 ft. in circumference, +with walls 13 ft. thick, above which rise six open arcaded galleries, +supported by 200 granite and marble columns. Over the sixth arcade rises +a round tower 27 ft. high. The entire height is 183 ft., the mean +diameter of the main portion 52 ft., and the deflection from the +perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of the cornice, which projects +32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174, and finished 1350. The ascent +is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide, formed in the wall; but not fewer +than three are allowed to visit the top at the same time. Fee for the +party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in one of the small houses (No. 14) +nearly opposite.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "pisa_baptistery" id = +"pisa_baptistery"><b>Baptistery</b></a> is a circular building, 361½ +feet in circumference, surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and +constructed after the designs of Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 +and finished towards the end of the 14th cent. Above the third storey +rises the dome, intersected by long lines of very prominent fretwork, +meeting in a cornice near the top, and terminating in a small dome +crowned with a statue of St. John the Baptist, the titular saint of all +such edifices. In the interior eight large Sardinian granite columns and +four marble piers support twelve arches, over which rises the tier of +piers and arches which support the cupola, within conical, but +externally hemispherical. In the centre stands an octagon marble font +for the baptism of adults, with four circular compartments at opposite +sides for the baptism of infants. The beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da +Pisa (1260) is ornamented with bas-reliefs, and supported on seven +columns. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Pisa: Cemetery.</span> +Behind the Baptistery is the <a name = "pisa_campo_santo" id = +"pisa_campo_santo"><i>Campo Santo</i></a>, founded about the year 1189 +by the Archbishop Ubaldo. It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, +and surrounded by a broad gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and +62 mullioned arches with quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The +inner side of the wall is covered with paintings in fresco, begun about +the year 1300, and continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on +entering is the +<span class = "pagenum">226</span> +<a name = "page226" id = "page226"> </a> +<!-- png 277 --> +monument of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right +commence frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the +patron saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the +second door illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the +Theban wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. +Above 38, the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of +Death,—filling those living in pleasure with horror, but those in +sorrow with joy. Now follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the +three chapels, and frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, +and Ascension. On the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by +Puccio Orvieto, 14th cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. +On the west wall is hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be +drawn across the mouth of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria +broke through in 1290, burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the +chain to Genoa. A few years ago, according to the inscription, the +Genoese returned it to Pisa. On the wall, under the chain, is the +monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and, a little to the right, +a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty space within the +cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the city. It is filled, +to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the Holy Land by the +galleys of Pisa. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "pisa_sta_maria" id = +"pisa_sta_maria"> +Pisa: S. Maria della Spina.</a></span> +Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on +the bank of the Arno (a low square church)—an excellent +specimen of the Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. +The churches of St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. +Andrea, and St. Francisco, contain a few curious and some good +paintings, with other antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed +to contain the bones of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, +Lanfreducci, Seta, and Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice.</p> + +<p>Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the +Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and +well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian, +considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next +page).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Leghorn.</span></p> + +<!-- png 278 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 226</span> +<a name = "map226" id = "map226" href = "images/map226.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map226thumb.png" width = "339" height = "560" +alt = "plan of Leghorn" title = "LEGHORN"></a> +</p> + +<p>Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance +11¼ miles. <a name = "leghorn" id = "leghorn"><b>Leghorn</b></a> (pop. +90,000). <i>Hotels:</i> In the Piazza del Cantiere, the Nord, fronting +the harbour; and close by, in the Via Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; +New York; France; and at No. 59 of the same street, Il Giappone. +Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi. Presbyterian church, No. +3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat from the hotel to the +steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome and well-paved streets; +among the best of them is the +<span class = "pagenum">227</span> +<a name = "page227" id = "page227"> </a> +<!-- png 279 --> +Via Vittorio Emanuele, which, commencing at the head of the harbour from +the Piazza dei Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza +d’Armi, with the cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its +continuation, on the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends +to a large building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is +the grand reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by +an aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing +“Humphrey Clinker,” and was buried in the English cemetery. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "leghorn_steamers_corsica" id = +"leghorn_steamers_corsica"> +Leghorn: Steamers for Corsica.</a></span> +Steam-boats every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in +Sardinia, and for Marseilles and Genoa.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "pisa_to_florence" id = +"pisa_to_florence"> +Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, <a href = +"#map199">page 199</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles to">62</span> +<a name = "pisa_stn" id = "pisa_stn"><b>PISA.</b></a> The direct line to +Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance, 49 miles. Time, 2 hours and +10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca route is <a name = +"san_giuliano" id = "san_giuliano"><i>San Giuliano</i></a>, with its +thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84° Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock +at the foot of the wooded Monti Pisani. The waters “are used internally +in chronic hepatic complaints, in gravel, and some renal affections; in +dysentery, and dyspepsia attended with pain and vomiting.” +—Madden’s <i>Health Resorts</i>. After Giuliano, we reach the +Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the left side of the +Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive embankments.</p> + + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">15</span> +<span class = "miles to">47</span> +<a name = "lucca" id = "lucca"><b>LUCCA</b></a> (pop. 22,000). Each +portmanteau taken from the station to the cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs +await passengers, 1 fr.; portmanteau, 4 sous.</p> + +<p><i>Sights.</i>—A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in +circumference, and a visit to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To +the south of Lucca, near the station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 +arches.</p> + +<p><a name = "lucca_hotels" id = "lucca_hotels"><i>Hotels:</i></a> +Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a first +class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona, +near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence +to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H. Corona. +Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in +the Piazza dell’Erba, off the P. Napoleone. Lucca is one of the +most ancient cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to +<span class = "pagenum">228</span> +<a name = "page228" id = "page228"> </a> +<!-- png 280 --> +the Etrurians, but was taken from them by the Ligurians, and colonised +by the Romans about 170 years before the birth of our Lord. The most +remarkable event that distinguished it in ancient times was the +interview which took place here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and +which attracted to the town half the senate and nobility of Rome. After +the fall of the Roman empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, +from one of whose race, Azon II., of the house of Este, the royal +families of Brunswick and England are descended. The town is in the form +of the letter O, surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable +drive. At the railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the +principal sights. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lucca_pal_ducale" id = +"lucca_pal_ducale"> +Lucca: Palazzo Ducale.<br> +Picture-Gallery. Cathedral.</a></span> +One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale, now the +Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in 1578, +enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the +post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The +<a name = "lucca_gallery" id = "lucca_gallery"><b>Picture-Gallery</b></a>, +open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2, although small, +contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the first room is a +Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the Creator with Mary +Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo, in 1515 and 1509. +Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the Sala da Ballo, +painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are a Madonna by +Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon’s sister Elisa; and +two ancient pictures on wood—a Nativity, and a Christ with Saints. +The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were occupied by +Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by Bartolini +(1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone, +by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to another open +space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between the two +churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera della chiesa;” +where, among other things, are preserved <i>La Croce dei Pisani</i>, an +elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B. Baroni in 1350, and +the gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the +Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is +expected. The Cathedral or Duomo of <a name = "lucca_cathedral" id = +"lucca_cathedral"><b>St. Martino</b></a> was commenced by Anselmo +Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope Alexander II., +blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England. The façade, +with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in 1204, the choir +in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of the portico are +subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on the left is a +Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">229</span> +<a name = "page229" id = "page229"> </a> +<!-- png 281 --> +<p>Loftiness and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the +interior of this church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, +with the exception of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The +windows are small and filled with modern glass, excepting the three at +the eastern end, which are by P. Ugolino. All the pictures are +covered, excepting on Sundays and feast-days, but the custodian can +always be found in the sacristy, who shows the church for a franc. +Commencing at the first altar, right hand from main entrance, Nativity, +by Passignano; second, Adoration of the Magi, P. Zucchero; third, +Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth, Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, +Resurrection. In south transept, west side, is the monument to Pietro da +Noceto, one of the many admirable works by Matteo Civitali, to whose +genius the church owes its best sculpture, which he contributed during a +period of nearly thirty years from 1472. The angels on the altar in the +Chapel del Sagramento, opposite the monument, as well as the whole of +the chaste white marble altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining +the sacramental chapel, are by him. On the left side of the high altar +is the altar to “Christo Liberatori,” by G. Bologna, and adjoining, +La Cappella del Santuario, where again we find the beautiful handiwork +of Civitali displayed on the altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +<b>Madonna</b> which forms the reredos of the altar is by Fra +Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the +sacristy, are the two gems in the church. Just outside the Cappella del +Santuario is a recumbent figure of <i>Ilaria del Carretto</i> by Jacopo +della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly mutilated, yet a beautiful +imitation of the repose of nature transferred to statuary. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Lucca: The Tempietto.<br> +S. Giovanni.<br> +S. Frediano.</span> +In the north aisle is the <a name = "lucca_tempietto" id = +"lucca_tempietto"><b>Tempietto</b></a>, a small octagonal chapel +standing apart, in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or +9th cent., said to have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of +an angel. The fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the +Duomo represents him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times +a year. The embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure +of S. Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit +opposite, are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is <a name = +"lucca_san_giovanni" id = "lucca_san_giovanni"><b>San Giovanni</b></a>, +founded in the 12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly +relieved by the coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone +by the western corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the +Piazza and Church of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty +façade composed of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the +same direction towards the ramparts, we reach <a name = +"lucca_san_frediano" id = "lucca_san_frediano"><b>S. <ins class = +"correction" title = "text reads ‘Frediana’">Frediano</ins></b></a>, of +the +<span class = "pagenum">230</span> +<a name = "page230" id = "page230"> </a> +<!-- png 282 --> +7th cent., with a large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just +within it, on each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an +ancient circular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved +in relief by Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is +against the wall, and is by N. Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The +second chapel on the right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness +of Lucca, in a sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east +side) is a coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall +of the same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the +assumption of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel +covered with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the +transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had +been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised +by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an +entombment. Opposite is S. Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying +by prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. +Above is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God +surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the +Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +The Baths of Lucca.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "lucca_baths" id = "lucca_baths"> +The Baths of Lucca.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +17 miles from Lucca. See <a href = "#map199">Map, page 199</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through pleasing +scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right side of the +river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of the Maddalena, +consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of Borgo being +disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the bank to the +centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built in 1322, +is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood uninjured the great +flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three hours a height till +then unknown, and swept away with irresistible fury all the other +bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and embankments. The two +villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of the Baths of Lucca are +<i>Il Serraglio</i> on the left bank, and <i>Corsena</i> on the right +bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On the hill behind +Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By the side of the +Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and about 100 feet +above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way westward, +overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse, and +immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the exclusive +use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses, is the Bagno +Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the Bagno San +Giovanni. <i>Hotels:</i> the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and Pension, next +the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the opposite side of +the river, in Il Serraglio, +<span class = "pagenum">231</span> +<a name = "page231" id = "page231"> </a> +<!-- png 283 --> +are the New York, and the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the +river by the right bank, along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is +another village, which is also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +<b>Bagno alla Villa,</b> the most beautifully situated of the three. +<i>Hotels:</i> At the entrance of the village, the H. and +P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on which the bathing +establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion and the +Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension price +in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. <i>Cabs:</i> +First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to +let. From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance. +The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very +similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse, +85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal +ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda and +magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter being +15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of La +Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but their +principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them +sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal +of the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with +more reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the +charming walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the +greater part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is +beautiful—steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks +rise on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend +their way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points +of various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to +October.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pistoja. Cathedral. Baptistery.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PISA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">40½</span> +<span class = "miles to">21½</span> +<a name = "pistoja" id = "pistoja"><b>PISTOJA</b></a> (pop. 13,600). +<i>Hotels:</i> Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both in the Piazza Cino. +Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr.; portmanteau, 20 c. Next +the H. Inghilterra is the church of S. Giovanni, erected at +the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and white +marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be by +Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza +Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the +lofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta,” which rises above all the +other buildings. By the side of it is the <a name = "pistoja_cathedral" +id = "pistoja_cathedral"><b>Duomo</b></a>, a plain edifice, built +in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by +A. della Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and +Giovanni Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to +the jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing +an assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is +represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. +<span class = "pagenum">232</span> +<a name = "page232" id = "page232"> </a> +<!-- png 284 --> +The altar of the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid +silver. It is generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man +will uncover it for 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 +years (1314-1466), and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s +work of that time in Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in +its execution. Below the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the +<a name = "pistoja_baptistery" id = +"pistoja_baptistery"><i>Baptistery</i></a>, begun 1339 (by C. di +Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate layers of black +and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle. The font is +quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the 13th cent. +Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit. Adjoining is the +Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale Civile), constructed +in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and soffits of the massive +arches are covered with the armorial bearings of the former mayors of +the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are still the stone-seats +and tables where they sat in judgment. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "pistoja_pal_municipale" id = +"pistoja_pal_municipale"> +Pistoja: Pal. Municipale.<br> +S. Andrea.</a></span> +Opposite is the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down +the street, the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured +terra-cotta frieze. Near the two hotels is the church of +<i>S. Maria dell’ Umilta</i>, built in 1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In +the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari. Near it is <a name = +"pistoja_st_andrea" id = "pistoja_st_andrea"><i>S. Andrea</i></a> +(12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the entrance door, and in the +interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured by Giovanni da Pisa, +1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates this piece of elaborate +sculpture, when it is seen to still greater advantage. Between the two +last churches is <i>S. Filippo da Neri</i>, with such a quantity of +frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory, that even the visitor +on entering feels himself among clouds also. In the Piazza Prato is +S. Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar pieces. In the +centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas de Weston, +Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived from the name +of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a very early +date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia, <span +class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> 62, and the precise spot where he is +said to have fallen is marked by a tower.</p> + +<p>Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages +at Pistoja.</p> + +<p>11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is <a name = "prato" id = +"prato"><b>Prato</b></a>, pop. 13,100. <i>Hotels:</i> Giardinetto, +Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and defended by a castle built +by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior of the Cathedral are faced +with white and green marble in bands. The nave has columns of +serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by Filippo Lippi, and +in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365).</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">233</span> +<a name = "page233" id = "page233"> </a> +<!-- png 285 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence" id = "florence"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence.</span></a></p> + +<!-- png 287 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 234</span> +<a name = "map234" id = "map234" href = "images/map234.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map234thumb.png" width = "463" height = "387" +alt = "plan of Florence" title = "FLORENCE"></a> +</p> + +<p>61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. +from Turin, 82 m. from Bologna, 134 m. from Piacenza, +196 m. from Rome, and 60¼ m. from Leghorn.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Hotels and Pensions.</span></p> + +<p><b>FLORENCE</b>, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. <a name = +"florence_hotels" id = "florence_hotels"><i>Hotels and +Apartments:</i></a> On the right or north side of the Arno, the Grand +Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la Ville; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington; +Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the +Paix, the Russie. All these hotels have a south exposure, and are +greatly run after in winter. Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, +according to the room. The following charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are +situated in the new streets a little way back from the Arno, and near +the Cascine or Park of Florence (north-west side of plan):—Hôtel +and Pension Corona d’Italia, Via Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles +Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della +Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are also furnished apartments at from +250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel and Pension Couronne d’Angleterre, +Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the +Universo in the Corso Vitt. Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, +and charging rather less than the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via +Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of +same street, Hôtel Bonciani, with front also to the Piazza S. Maria +Novella. Near the bridge La Santa Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are +the Europe and Nord. In the Via Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in +the Via della Spada the Ville de Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in +the Piazza S. Maria Novella (near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; +Bonciani, with furnished apartments; and by the side of the station, La +Posta and Rebecchino. In the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses +for Sesto Fiorentino and a large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for +visiting the sights, and not expensive (from 7 to 9 frs. per day), +are the H. d’Espagne above the Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile +d’Italie in the V. Calzaioli. Pension Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le +Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in which also single rooms are +let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di +S. Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension Rudolfo, Via della Scala. +Furnished apartments all over the town. Just outside the Porta Romana, +in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments cost from 250 to 400 frs. +the month. The most expensive as well as the most fashionable are those +situated on the right bank of the Arno; but in the streets a little way +back from the Arno apartments can be had for less. It is of very great +importance in winter to have +<span class = "pagenum">234</span> +<a name = "page234" id = "page234"> </a> +<!-- png 286 --> +bedrooms with a south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold +even on a sunny day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very +moderate rates in restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both +in the Via Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via +Calzaioli, between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti +and Co., 5 Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well.</p> + +<p><i>Protestant Churches.</i>—American Church, 17 Via dei +Serragli; American Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, +5 Via del Maglio; Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini.</p> + +<p><a name = "florence_cabs" id = "florence_cabs"><i>Cab +Tariff.</i></a>—The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span> to 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>), +1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c.; every +successive half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. +Omnibuses run between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. +Fare, 10 c.; Sundays, 15 c.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_hints" id = "florence_hints"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: Hints and Directions.</span></a></p> + +<p>Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of +the Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best +plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria, +and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little +guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and +statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published in +English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for +Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works, +<i>Walks in Florence</i> by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister +and Co., London, and volume 3 of <i>Hare’s Cities of Italy</i>.</p> + +<p>It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander +into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure +by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately, +are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the +Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the +<a href = "#uffizi_tribuna">Tribuna</a> (p. 238), containing the +concentrated excellence of both galleries in painting and antique +sculpture. Besides what are in the Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures +in the Pitti, of which the most famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’ +Educazione di Giove (see <a href = "#pitti_jupiter">p. 244</a>). +Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo +(see <a href = "#florence_sagrestia_nuova">p. 265</a>), but the +best collection of his works is in the <i>National Museum</i> (see +<a href = "#nat_mus_michelangelo">p. 261</a>). His David is in the +<i>Accademia delle Belle Arti</i> (see <a href = +"#florence_fine_arts">p. 272</a>). In the National Museum is the +best collection of sculpture by great <i>Italian Artists</i>, such as +Michael Angelo, G. Bologna, Luca and Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; +Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano, +<span class = "pagenum">235</span> +<a name = "page235" id = "page235"> </a> +<!-- png 288 --> +Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in +the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of +the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or +Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but +particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached +to St. Lorenzo), S. Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are +open from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till +six. The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their +cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the <a href = +"#florence_brancacci">Brancacci chapel</a> of Del Carmine (page 252). +Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in 1240, in the +<a href = "#sta_maria_rucellai">Rucellai chapel</a> of S. Maria +Novella (page 268). Best frescoes by D. Ghirlandaio on the chancel +or recess occupied by the high altar in <a href = +"#sta_maria_ghirlandaio">S. Maria Novella</a> (page 268). Best +frescoes of A. del Sarto in the <a href = "#annunziata_narthex">narthex +of the Annunziata</a> (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the first +and second chapels of <a href = "#sta_croce_giotto">S. Croce</a> +(page 260). Of the palaces the best are the <a href = +"#florence_pal_vecchio">Palazzo Vecchio</a> (page 274), <a href = +"#florence_pal_strozzi">Palazzo Strozzi</a> (page 275), and the <a href += "#florence_pal_corsini">Palazzo Corsini</a> (page 275). The best view +of Florence is from the top of the dome; the ascent is very easy. The +pleasantest drive, with views, is to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the +Porta Romana and the Boulevards Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo +(<a href = "#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">page 249</a>), studded with +handsome villas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Piazza della Signoria. Loggia dell’ Orcagna.</span></p> + +<p>At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the +<i>Ponte Vecchio</i>, differs from all the rest in having shops on each +side. By referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the +Pitti Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this +bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S. Maria, +leading to the <a name = "florence_piazza_signoria" id = +"florence_piazza_signoria"><b>Piazza della Signoria</b></a>. From the +north-west corner of the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the +Via Calzaioli, leads to the <i>Piazza del Duomo</i>; from the eastern +corner the street called the Borgo de’ Greci leads into the <a name = +"florence_piazza_sta_croce" id = "florence_piazza_sta_croce"><b>Piazza +Santa Croce</b></a>. It is of great importance to understand the +relative position of these three squares. The chief feature of the +Piazza della Signoria is the <a href = +"#florence_pal_vecchio"><i>Palazzo Vecchio</i></a>, a fine specimen +of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274). On either side +of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis and Philemon, by +Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules and Cacus, also +by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called the <a name = +"florence_loggia_orcagna" id = "florence_loggia_orcagna"><b>Loggia dell’ +Orcagna</b></a>, from the name of the architect, or dei Lanzi, from the +name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building. It was usual in +the early period of the Republic to provide a space near the +government-house where the people +<span class = "pagenum">236</span> +<a name = "page236" id = "page236"> </a> +<!-- png 289 --> +could meet and take part in public affairs; and for this purpose this +open gallery was built opposite the Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. +Five steps, running along the front, lead up to the platform, covered by +a vaulted roof, supported on four arches, resting on three columns +terminating in beautiful capitals of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy +lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament the entrance. The lion on the left +is by F. Vacca, 17th cent.; the other, on the right, as well as the +six statues of Sabine priestesses, along the inner wall, beautiful in +attitude and drapery, are antiques, and were brought from the Villa +Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under each arch, stand three separate +groups, by celebrated masters of the 16th cent. To the right is the Rape +of the Sabines, by G. Bologna, in 1583. Originally this group was +intended to represent Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. To the left the +statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head of the sorceress Medusa, by +B. Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of power and animation, +but the head and body of the Medusa are represented streaming with blood +with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith and Holofernes in +bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of Polixena, +a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an antique +group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of +Patrocles—restored by S. Ricci. Next it is the marble group, +by G. Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this +Piazza is also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of +Bandinelli), 1571. It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over +by a statue of Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. +Adjoining is a superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse +is admirable. To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione +(considered to have been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining +the Loggia dei Lanzi are the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi,” the +great storehouse of art treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along +the basement floor, extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari +(1560-74), ornamented with 24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On +the same side as the Loggia is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_national_library" id += "florence_national_library"> +Florence: National Library.</a></span> +On the opposite side, at the second door from the end, is the entrance +to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six doors farther down, the entrance +to the <i>Biblioteca Nazionale</i>, with about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 +MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be had for consultation in the +reading-room by writing the name on a slip of paper. The National +Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the Palatine Library +collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library collected by +Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the colonnade +leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.</p> + +<!-- png 290 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 237</span> +<span class = "smallcaps">PLAN of the UFFIZI & PITTI +GALLERIES</span><br> +<a name = "map237" id = "map237" href = "images/map237.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map237thumb.png" width = "462" height = "202" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">237</span> +<a name = "page237" id = "page237"> </a> +<!-- png 291 --> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "florence_uffizi" id = +"florence_uffizi"> +Galleria degli Uffizi.</a></h5> + +<p>Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.’s near +the portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern +gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous +collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar +collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno +by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by +the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both +collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the +second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at +the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into +the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi, +and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the +western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go +wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds, +fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a +small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes +in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to +enter the Pitti galleries, <i>ascend</i>, but to go out, descend. +Downstairs, outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli +gardens.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "uffizi_vestibules" id = +"uffizi_vestibules"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: Uffizi +Gallery—Vestibules—Corridors.</span></a></p> + +<p>Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those +who wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the +galleries may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first +vestibule are Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and +sacrifices, and busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I., +Francis I., and of others of the Medici. Second vestibule, more +Roman statuary, and an inimitable Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole +expressing admirably the growling ire kindling in an irritated animal. +Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold, spirited, and true to nature. The horse, +said to have belonged to the Niobes group, does not bear close +examination.</p> + +<p><a name = "uffizi_corridors" id = "uffizi_corridors">We now enter the +eastern corridor</a>, 178 yards long, with the ceiling painted in +arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable specimens of +ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and members of the +imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung a valuable and +interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff gilded +Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna by +Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St. +Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in +colour and grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, +<span class = "pagenum">238</span> +<a name = "page238" id = "page238"> </a> +<!-- png 292 --> +by Giotto, pupil of Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. +Angelico; No. 24 a Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by +P. Uccello; and No. 61 a Crucifixion by Lippi.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Tuscan School.</span></p> + +<p>From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls +where the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as +is shown on the plan, the <a name = "uffizi_tuscan" id = +"uffizi_tuscan"><b>Scuola Toscana</b></a>, contained in three rooms, and +consisting of 165 paintings, by M. Albertinelli, A. and +C. Allori, B. Angelico, M. A. Anselmi. B. Bandinelli, +Fra. Bartolommeo, G. Biliverti, S. Botticelli, A. Bronzino. F. +Cambi, J. Casentino, Cigoli, P. di Cosimo, L. di Credi, +F. Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P. Francesca, M. A. +Franciabigio. A. L. Gentil, D. and R. Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, +G. S. Giovanni, B. Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra +F. Lippi. O. Marinari, Masaccio, T. Manzuoli, G. da Milano, +F. Morandini. G. Pagani, M. Pasti, S. Pieri, +A. Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G. Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il Rosso, +G. F. Rustici. V. Salimbeni, C. Salviati, A. del Sarto, +L. Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R. Vanni, O. Vannini, +G. Vasari, Dom. Veneziano, A. Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, +Volterrano. F. Zucchero. The earliest painters are in the inner +room. Among the most remarkable of them are, B. Angelico, 1294. A. +Botticelli, 1286, a large picture, and 1289 and 1299. Fra. +F. Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297. G. da Milano, 1293, +in ten compartments. A. Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D. Veneziano, +1305.</p> + +<p>In the middle hall—Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265; +Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F. Lippi, 1257 and +1268; Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da +Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture.</p> + +<p>First hall—Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, +one of his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; +Leonardo da Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Tribuna.</span></p> + +<p>Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the <a name = +"uffizi_tribuna" id = "uffizi_tribuna"><b>Tribuna</b></a>, a plain +8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B. Buondelmonti, and +painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five of +the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the +choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F. Barocci, Fra. +Bartolommeo, A. and L. Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, +A. Durer, Guercino, L. Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, +B. Luini, Mantegna, Michael Angelo, L. d’Olanda, P. Perugino, +Raphael, G. Reni, Giulio Romano, Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, +Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck, P. Veronese, and D. Volterra. +Facing the door is the <b>Venus de Medici</b>, 4 ft. 11 inches high, +supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus, which, along +<span class = "pagenum">239</span> +<a name = "page239" id = "page239"> </a> +<!-- png 293 --> +with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the Villa Hadrian, in +Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group of the Wrestlers, +exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn, attributed to +Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that remains of +the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael Angelo. In the +<i>Knife-Grinder</i>, the bony square form, the squalid countenance, and +the short neglected hair, express admirably the character of a slave, +still more plainly written on his coarse hard hands and wrinkled brow. +Among the paintings, six are by Raphael—all gems. 1120 Portrait of +a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the Fornarina, every hue as perfect +as if transferred to the canvas by the sun—the expression is pert; +1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well), attributed also to Franciabigio, +beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in the Desert, colouring tawny, but +admirable light and shade; 1129 the Madonna del Cardellino +(nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works, painted when he was 22; 1131 +Portrait of Julius II., considered one of the finest portraits in +the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti Gallery, and in the +National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits by Raphael of this +impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by Michael Angelo. This +picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits powerful drawing with +dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St. Francis and St. John, +called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del Sarto—rich but +subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the famous recumbent +Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by Correggio—wonderful +colouring.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—The Italian School.</span></p> + +<p>Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the Tribuna, +and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French +schools, and the collection of gems. <a name = "uffizi_italian" id = +"uffizi_italian"><b>The Italian</b></a>, or more properly the +Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, +D. Ambrogi. Baroccio, J. Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, +Canaletto, A. Caracci, G. da Carpi, G. Carpioni, B. +Castiglione, M. Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio. Domenichino, B. +and D. Dossi. C. Ferri, D. Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo, +L. Giordano, Giorgione, F. Granacci, J. Guercino. +J. Ligozzi, B. Luini. A. Magnasco, A. Mantegna, +L. Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi, Moretto da Brescia. Palma +(both), G. P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P. Piola, C. Procaccino, +S. Pulzone. G. Reni, P. Reschi, S. Rosa. E. Savonazzi, J. +Scarsellino, B. Schidone, F. Solimena. A. Tiarini, Tinelli, +Tintoretto, Tiziano, A. Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P. Veronese, A. +Vicentino. B. Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are +Guido Reni, 998 Madonna; Parmigianino, +<span class = "pagenum">240</span> +<a name = "page240" id = "page240"> </a> +<!-- png 294 --> +1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; <ins class = "correction" title = +"text reads ‘Coreggio’">Correggio</ins>, 1016 Child’s Head; +A. Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap; Caravaggio, 1031 +Medusa.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—The Dutch, Flemish, and French +Schools.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "uffizi_dutch" id = "uffizi_dutch"><i>The Dutch +School</i></a> contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by +Berkeyden, Borch, G. Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, +Netscher, O. Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with +Holy Family. R. Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, +Van der Heyden, Van der Werf, Van Kessel.</p> + +<p><i>The Flemish and German Schools</i>, in two rooms, consist of 157 +paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of +Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847 +Luther and Melancthon. C. Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape, +considered the gem of this department. G. Dow, 786 Schoolmaster. +A. Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765 +Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin +Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best +pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits. +Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a +Madonna.</p> + +<p><a name = "uffizi_french" id = "uffizi_french"><i>The French +School</i></a> is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most +noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of +Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and +afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame +do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680 +Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Room of Gems.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "uffizi_gems" id = "uffizi_gems"><i>The Room of +Gems</i></a> has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to view +statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made of +lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise, and +gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article, +a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of +Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who +presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of +Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by +Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here +are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into +the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into +Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round +altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth +extracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the +Vatican; 145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept +in the little office in the corner of this corridor).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">241</span> +<a name = "page241" id = "page241"> </a> +<!-- png 295 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Venetian School.</span></p> + +<p><b>West Corridor</b> and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both +sides, and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later +date than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the +<a name = "uffizi_venetian" id = "uffizi_venetian"><b>Venetian +School</b></a>, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four contain +portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind the +Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins. The 82 +pictures which illustrate the <i>Venetian School</i> are by twenty-five +great masters, T. Bassano, G. Bellini, P. Bordone, C. Caliari, +D. Campagnole, Giorgione, L. Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto, +Morone, G. Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo, +A. Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P. Veneziano, C. +Veronese, P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the +immortal Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) +and of the Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I.; of +“Flora,” called his Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of +Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino (596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy +Family; 609 Battle between the Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine +Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618 Sketch of Virgin and Child for his +celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at Venice. P. Veronese, 589 +Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before Ahasuerus, and 636 The +Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in Cana. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "uffizi_portraits" id = +"uffizi_portraits"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—<br> +Portraits of Artists.</a></span> +In the next two rooms are <b>Portraits of Artists</b> of all nations, +from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338) +of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall the +celebrated <b>Medici Vase</b> (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in +relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke +Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with +200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable +are—288 Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 +Rubens; 232 Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; +374, 384, and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; +546 Sir Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall +of portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and +stairs leading to the <a href = "#florence_pitti_gallery">Pitti +Gallery</a>. See page 243. <b>Sala delle Iscrizione.</b>—The walls +are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions, arranged in 12 divisions +according to the subject. In this room are also some very interesting +ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso of a Faun. <i>Cabinet +of the Hermaphrodite.</i>—The most important piece of sculpture +here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin, a valuable +Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering. <i>Cabinet of +Cameos.</i>—A very +<span class = "pagenum">242</span> +<a name = "page242" id = "page242"> </a> +<!-- png 296 --> +precious collection of ancient and modern cameos, statuettes, and +enamels, including those presented by Sir William Currie in 1863.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "uffizi_niobe" id = "uffizi_niobe"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Hall of +Niobe.</span></a></p> + +<p><i>Sala del Baroccio.</i>—Against the walls are beautiful +tables in pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the +room by Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall +contains 172 pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in +size and merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The +Virgin interceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of +Galileo; 191, by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s +best works, “St. Galla Placida.” <b>Sala della Niobe.</b>—The hall +of Niobe was built in 1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the +famous statues supposed to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found +near the Porta S. Paolo at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her +children struck by thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the +finest and most powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are +round the cold, flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his +separate pedestal, the illusion of design and composition is not only +destroyed but individual criticism invited, a test all of them +cannot bear. It is believed that originally they formed a group on the +pediment of a temple. Niobe is rather large, nearly nine heads high, but +the child she protects is without a fault in form. This group is of one +piece of marble. All the others are in single figures. But the soul and +source of all that is interesting in these statues is the wonderful +figure of the wounded and dying youth, represented lying on his back, +his legs just crossing each other, the left hand reclining on his +breast, and his right arm slightly raised. As a statue, it commands the +highest admiration, and as a chaste and powerful picture of death, the +keenest sympathy. Behind the statue of Niobe is a very large picture by +Rubens—Henri IV. at the battle of Ivry—a performance of +wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite it, 147 The entry of +Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152 Honthorst, +Fortune-teller.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Hall of Bronzes.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "uffizi_bronzes" id = "uffizi_bronzes"><i>Sala dei +Bronzi.</i></a>—In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most +remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso +428 found near Leghorn—a torso is the trunk of a statue that has +lost the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a +youth, 5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in +1530. The pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a +list of the Roman Decurions, dated <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 223. <i>Galleria Feroni.</i>—In this room +are arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of +which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. +<span class = "pagenum">243</span> +<a name = "page243" id = "page243"> </a> +<!-- png 297 --> +Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop, by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by +B. Schidone. Outside, in the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali +Paoli, the Corsican patriot, by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, +Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the master of Claude Lorraine.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence. The Way from the Uffizi to the Pitti Galleries.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_connecting" id = +"florence_connecting"> +The Connecting Galleries.</a></h5> + +<p>Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and +stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of +Francesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of +“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The +walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are +covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting +a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time. +The corridor on the <b>Ponte Vecchio</b> crossing the Arno is occupied +with a glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first +part of the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous +portraits of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage +behind the Via Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, +executed in the 16th and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are +those representing the festivities at the marriages of Henry II. +with Catherine de’ Medici, and of Henry IV. with Maria de’ Medici, +executed in 1560 after designs by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a +short stair ascends to a room hung with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, +or in one colour, by several of the old painters. From this another +short stair leads to the long narrow gallery on the wall of the Boboli +gardens. This gallery is hung with water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo +Ligozzi, in 1695, representing with wonderful truthfulness, figures of +birds, fishes, and plants. To these illustrations of natural history +succeeds a series of miniature paintings of scenes in the life of our +Lord. Now we come to the common stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti +Gallery, and downwards to the door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next +the gate leading into the Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a +large vestibule, with a window looking into the gardens. The names of +the Sale and Stanze (Halls and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room +is provided with two of these catalogues, one in Italian and another in +French. The halls are painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and +rich tables of Florentine mosaic.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Pitti Gallery. Halls of Saturn and Jupiter.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_pitti_gallery" id = +"florence_pitti_gallery"> +The Pitti Gallery.</a></h5> + +<p>The vestibule opens into the <i>Sala dell’ Illiado</i>, painted by +Sabatelli in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity,” by +Bartolini. +<span class = "pagenum">244</span> +<a name = "page244" id = "page244"> </a> +<!-- png 298 --> +Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his +Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkable +picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is +represented by some of his best portraits:—No. 200, +Philip II. of Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215, +Portrait; and 228, the Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by +Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P. Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, +S. Rosa, his own Portrait; and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, +a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod. Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. +230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy +Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha.</p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_saturn" id = "pitti_saturn"><i>Sala di +Saturno.</i></a>—The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da +Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:—151, Portrait of +Pope Julius II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. +The others by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of +(171) Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. of +England and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by +Perugino.</p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_jupiter" id = "pitti_jupiter"><i>Sala di +Giove.</i></a>—Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of +the room statue of “Victory,” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables +in Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of +Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then +follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by +A. del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the +lower corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials +S. A. R. O. No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of +G. Benci, by Leonardo da Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Pitti Gallery—Halls of Mars and Apollo.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_mars" id = "pitti_mars"><i>Sala di +Marte.</i></a>—Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, +Rubens, Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful +paintings. The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. +94 is a Holy Family, also by him—called the “Impannata” or cloth +window. No. 81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del +Sarto. 82, Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by +Rubens. 96, Judith, by C. Allori.</p> + +<p><i>Sala di Prometeo.</i>—The Mosaic Table in this room, by +Giorgi, occupied him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo +Lippi.</p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_apollo" id = "pitti_apollo"><i>Sala di +Apollo.</i></a>—Raphael has three portraits in this room:—59 +and 61, M. and A. Doni; and 63, Leo X. Tiziano has some fine +works:—No. 67, a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and +54, Aretino, the poet, is one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by +Murillo. 58, by +<span class = "pagenum">245</span> +<a name = "page245" id = "page245"> </a> +<!-- png 299 --> +A. del Sarto, Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the +same subject admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo.</p> + +<p><i>Sala di Venere</i> (Venus).—Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and +15 are two most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella +Donna, by Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L. Cardi +(Il Cigoli).</p> + +<p><i>Galleria Poccetti.</i>—Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon +by Canova. Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns +in oriental alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and +admirably executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by +Card. Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in +ivory, amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones.</p> + +<p><i>Stanza della Giustizia.</i>—Painted by Fedi. The beautiful +ebony cabinet was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in +this room is 408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir +Peter Lely, by request of Ferdinand II. of Tuscany.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Pitti Gallery—Rooms of Flora, Ullisse, Giove.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_flora" id = "pitti_flora"><i>Stanza di +Flora.</i></a>—In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called +also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the +Venus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to +Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II., by +Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Tiziano.</p> + +<p><i>Stanza dei Putti.</i>—Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large +picture by Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest—Diogenes +throwing away his drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael.</p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_ullisse" id = "pitti_ullisse"><i>Stanza d’ +Ullisse.</i></a>—Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait +by Rubens of the favourite of James I., George Villiers, Duke of +Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by +Ligozzi. 297, Paul III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by +Sal. Rosa.</p> + +<p><i>Stanza del Bagno.</i>—This, the bath-room, is tastefully +fitted up with a mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, +and four marble statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni.</p> + +<p><a name = "pitti_educazione" id = "pitti_educazione"><i>Stanza dell’ +educazione di Giove.</i></a>—Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna +del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti +Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by +Velasquez. 248, a “Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra. +Bartolommeo.</p> + +<p><i>Stanza della Stufa.</i>—The frescoes on the walls, +representing the Four Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the +nephew of Michael +<span class = "pagenum">246</span> +<a name = "page246" id = "page246"> </a> +<!-- png 300 --> +Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by +Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique +statues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain +vase with a likeness of Napoleon I., and two justly celebrated +bronze statues of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by +Papi in 1849.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Boboli Gardens.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_boboli" id = +"florence_boboli"> +The Boboli Gardens.</a></h5> + +<p>Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend +to the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass +through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and +feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the +office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the +corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders +and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses, +encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more +like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial +grotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by +G. Bologna; and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael +Angelo, intended for the monument of Julius II. at Rome, and +presented to Cosmo I. by L. Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is +the Amphitheatre; within the centre a granite obelisk and a large +granite basin from Egypt, but brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the +palace, near the Porta Romana, is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in +marble by G. Bologna. In the flower-garden “del Cavaliere,” are two +more fountains, with monkeys in bronze, by the same artist, and a small +villa, from the top of which there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the +highest part of the gardens, facing the palace, is a colossal statue of +Dovizia (Abundance), commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil +Dacca.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Pitti Palace.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "florence_pal_pitti" id = "florence_pal_pitti"><b>THE PITTI +PALACE</b></a> was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in +1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished +building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but +not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659 +feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by +the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed +the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and +Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto +covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented +with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in +bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal +<span class = "pagenum">247</span> +<a name = "page247" id = "page247"> </a> +<!-- png 301 --> +Chapel. Above the altar is an ivory crucifix by G. Bologna. At the +end of the portico, to the left, a door opens into the court, in +which is the entrance into the room containing the splendid +<i>Collection of Plate</i> by Benvenuto Cellini and Maso Finiguerra, and +ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the famous artist in wax, has +likewise some of his works here. The state apartments are sumptuously +furnished.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Tribuna Galileo—Museum of Natural History.</span></p> + +<p>Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the +house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther +up the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the</p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_natural_history" id = +"florence_natural_history"> +Museo di Storia Naturale,</a></h5> + +<p>in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both +open on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule +is an old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, +probably by Ignazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence +by Cosmo I. He died in 1586. Upstairs is the <a name = +"florence_galileo_tribuna" id = "florence_galileo_tribuna"><b>Museo, or +Tribuna di Galileo</b></a>.<a name = "tag_3" id = "tag_3" href = +"#note_3">*</a> Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the +table. The statue of him is by A. Costoli. In the niche to the +right are his telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by +himself, and by which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the +niche on the left are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical +instruments belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 +and dissolved in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince +Leopold de’ Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating +scenes in the life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of +Galileo, taken from the body when it was removed to its present +resting-place in the church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the +excellent and comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections +are admirably arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department +contains the herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to +have collected about the year 1563; of P. A. Micheli, collected +about the year 1725; of Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; +of Labillardière, who accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New +Holland; of R. Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the +Englishman, P. B. Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this +<span class = "pagenum">248</span> +<a name = "page248" id = "page248"> </a> +<!-- png 302 --> +museum. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_anatomical" id = +"florence_anatomical"> +Florence: Anatomical<br> +Preparations in Wax.</a></span> +But the most wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical +preparations in wax, chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, +under the direction of Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great +works of the great painters, they are executed with the most minute care +and truthfulness to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the +cuttle-fish or of the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the +most delicate organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve +rooms, entered from the shell department, by the door lettered +“Ittiologia,” opening into the Zootomia.</p> + +<p class = "footnote"> +<a name = "note_3" id = "note_3" href = "#tag_3">*</a> +The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any large niche. But +the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the semicircular cavity at the +extremity of a Roman basilica, where the judges sat. In the early ages +of the church some of these buildings were given to the Christians for +public worship, who still retained their secular name, and worshipped in +them without consecration.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: House of Galileo.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_galileo_house" id = +"florence_galileo_house"> +The House of Galileo,</a></h5> + +<p>at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by +which, in 1536, Charles V. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. +An omnibus runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side +there is a cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the +omnibus for the <a href = "#florence_certosa">Certosa</a> (see page +250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three broad roads—the +lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the Certosa; the centre +one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del Poggio Imperiale; +while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first of a series of +magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble terrace the Piazza +Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio to the Royal +Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the Instituto della +Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascend by the Via +del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road to the +right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the house +in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which when +blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was born +in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, is +indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep +little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower +(<a name = "florence_torre_gallo" id = "florence_torre_gallo">Torre del +Gallo</a>) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations. It +contains several relics of the great astronomer—a telescope, +table, and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico +che si conosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by +Salvatelli, a smaller portrait of him by P. Leoni, 1624. From +the farmhouse +<span class = "pagenum">249</span> +<a name = "page249" id = "page249"> </a> +<!-- png 303 --> +a steep narrow road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza +Michelangiolo and the Porta Romana.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Piazzale Michelangiolo. San Miniato.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_piaz_michelangiolo" id = +"florence_piaz_michelangiolo"> +The Piazzale Michelangiolo.</a></h5> + +<p>There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk +or drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of +S. Miniato. They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the +Arno, two bridges higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are +distinctly seen from the Lung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on +foot is, having crossed the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above +the Ponte Vecchio), walk up the left bank of the Arno, passing the +Piazza containing the fine marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, +by L. Bartolini, in 1835, and continue the walk up the river till +arrival at a square tower in the Piazza della Molina, whence commence +the ascent by the stairs and road the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it +from the Porta Romana by the fine avenues the Viali Machiavelli and +Galileo, bordered by trees and handsome villas, disclosing as they wind +round the steep sides of the hills a succession of ever-varying views. +The Piazzale Michelangiolo is a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the +Arno, commanding a grand prospect, and adorned with five statues in +bronze, copies by C. Papi of Michael Angelo’s famous works. To the +right is the Viale Michelangiolo, the carriage road leading down to the +Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). +Above the Piazzale, by the convent church of San Salvatore del Monte +(built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the <a name = "florence_san_miniato" id = +"florence_san_miniato"><b>Basilica of San Miniato</b></a>, one of the +earliest (1013) as well as one of the most perfect structures in the +Byzantine style. Internally it is 165 feet long by 70 wide, and is +divided longitudinally into aisles by pillars of classical design. The +façade is faulty. The tower was erected in 1519. The floor of the nave +is considerably under the level of the chancel, which terminates in a +semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed in 1247, and of the same kind +as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behind the altar are five small +windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble. Between the stairs leading up +to the chancel is the chapel constructed in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie +the remains of Gualberto, the founder of the church and of the order of +Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north aisle is the chapel of Cardinal +Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by B. Rossellino, and the +beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca della Robbia. On the south +side is the Sacristy (built in 1387), exquisitely painted in fresco by +Spinello Aretino, representing scenes in the life of St. Benedict. In +<span class = "pagenum">250</span> +<a name = "page250" id = "page250"> </a> +<!-- png 304 --> +the centre of the nave is a curious piece of Byzantine pavement, +executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on 38 marble +columns, several being prolongations of those above. Under the altar is +the tomb of San Miniato. From the terraces of the adjoining cemetery +there are splendid views of Florence and of the valley of the Arno.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: The Certosa.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_certosa" id = +"florence_certosa"> +The Certosa.</a></h5> + +<p>From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at +the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles +distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the +grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading +up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely +situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is +now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars +of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At +the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the +convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal +to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see +the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a +fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento +style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco +by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls, +and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of +S. Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity +of the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the +mausoleum of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs +over the tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow +cloister with eight small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, +1560; Cappella del Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by +Albertinelli, and in the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by +Stogallo, 1545; then the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and +bedroom. He was a prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are +obtained from various parts. In passing through the villages women may +be seen plaiting straw—a standard occupation in Tuscany.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Bello Sguardo. Monte Oliveto.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "florence_bello_sguardo" id = +"florence_bello_sguardo"><b>Views.</b></a>—From the Porta Romana +commences also the road to the Bello Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about +a mile distant), both commanding splendid views of the city, of the +valley of the Arno, and of the surrounding mountains. Immediately +outside the Porta turn to the right, and walk by the side of the city +wall by the Via Petrarcha till the second road on the left, the Via de +Casone, by which continue +<span class = "pagenum">251</span> +<a name = "page251" id = "page251"> </a> +<!-- png 305 --> +to ascend till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello +Sguardo. By it ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino, +where at the house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the +pavilion of this house; fee, ½ fr. To go from this to <a name = +"florence_monte_oliveto" id = "florence_monte_oliveto"><b>Monte +Oliveto</b></a> descend to the Via di Bello Sguardo, and from a house +with a high railing turn to the right by the “Via di Monte Oliveto Per +S. Vito,” and descend to a large gateway and house on the left +hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte Oliveto, then walk +forward past the old convent, now a military hospital, to the top of the +knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the view. Now descend by the +Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the hill, enters the Via +Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta S. Frediano, whence an +omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If preferred, the tour may be +commenced at this end, taking the omnibus from the Piazza to the +Porta.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santo Spirito.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "florence_santo_spirito" id = +"florence_santo_spirito"><span class = "smallcaps">Santo Spirito and +Santa Maria del Carmine.</span></a>—By referring to the plan it +will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are +two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous +frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino +Lippi (b. 1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in +which Luther preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. +The present church of the S. Spirito was commenced in 1446 by +F. Brunelleschi, destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 +according to Brunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable +proportions, was erected by B. d’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and +191 at the transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of +the aisles rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of +pietra-serena, brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church +are 38 semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro +Allori, Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del +Garbio, Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, +and Cosimo Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th +chapel from entrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left +transept, 19th and 20th chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. +22d chapel, an Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the +most remarkable work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, +a Pieta, by Baccio Bigio, a copy of the group by Michael +Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. The proportions of the dead body of our +Lord are admirable, and the ribs, loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully +marked. Before the choir is a screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze +and rich marbles, and although rather out of place, full of beautiful +details. +<span class = "pagenum">252</span> +<a name = "page252" id = "page252"> </a> +<!-- png 306 --> +The high altar, under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of +rare porphyry, is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni +Caccini. A door in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the +joint work of San Gallo and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. +In the sacristy a door to the right opens into the cloisters, by +A. Parigi, adorned with frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and +Cascetti.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santa Maria del Carmine. Brancacci Chapel.</span></p> + +<p>The church <a name = "florence_del_carmine" id = +"florence_del_carmine"><b>Del Carmine</b></a> was erected in 1475, +destroyed by fire in 1771, and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and +Mannaconi. Among the parts which escaped destruction in 1771 was the +<a name = "florence_brancacci" id = "florence_brancacci"><b>Brancacci +chapel</b></a>, at the end of the western or right transept, covered +with valuable frescoes, in 12 compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and +Masolino da Panicale. The four principal subjects are (left wall) +“Christ directing St. Peter to take a coin from a fish’s mouth to pay +the tribute,” by Masaccio, whose portrait is given in the last apostle +to the right; “the Restoration to Life of the Emperor’s Nephew,” painted +by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio. On the right wall are— “St. Peter +raising Tabitha,” by Masolino; “the Crucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St. +Paul before the Proconsul,” by Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said +to have been studied by Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and +Michael Angelo. Of the eight small subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and +Eve,” and “St. Peter and St. John Healing the Sick by means of their +Shadows,” on the left wall; “St. Peter Baptising,” and “St. Peter +Distributing Alms,” on the right wall, are all by Masaccio. “The Visit +of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison,” on the left wall, and “the +Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” on the right wall, are by Lippi. +“Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,” and “St. Peter Healing the +Cripple,” are ascribed by some to Masolino, by others to Masaccio. In +the opposite arm of the transept is the Corsini chapel, with large +marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes on the ceiling by Luca +Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some frescoes discovered in +1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also, and with more +probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the life of St. +Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some fragments of +which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the Royal +Institution, Liverpool.</p> + +<hr class = "tiny"> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a href = "#florence_cathedral">The Duomo</a>, 252. +<a href = "#florence_campanile">The Campanile</a>, 255. +<a href = "#florence_baptistery">The Baptistery</a>, 256. +<a href = "#florence_bigallo">Il Bigallo</a>, 257. +<a href = "#florence_san_michele">San Michele</a>, 257. +<a href = "#florence_sta_croce">Santa Croce</a>, 258. +<a href = "#florence_national_museum">The National Museum</a>, 261. +<a href = "#florence_la_badia">La Badia</a>, 263. +<a href = "#florence_michelangelo_house">The House of Michael +Angelo</a>, 263.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Cathedral—Dome—Ascent.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "florence_cathedral" id = "florence_cathedral"><span class += "smallcaps">The</span> Duomo, or Cathedral Church</a> of Santa Maria +del Fiore was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone +laid on +<span class = "pagenum">253</span> +<a name = "page253" id = "page253"> </a> +<!-- png 307 --> +the 8th of September 1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate +ever sent to Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. +In 1330 Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea +Pisano, continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in +1337. To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea +Orcagna. In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the <a name = +"florence_cathedral_dome" id = "florence_cathedral_dome">dome</a>, and +completed it in all its essential parts before his death, which took +place in 1446. In 1469 Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper +ball and cross. The dome, built without timber centrings, consists of +two vast vaults, an interior and an exterior, both supported by strong +ribs at the right angles, and surrounded at the base by a strong iron +chain. From the floor to the top of the dome the height is 300 feet, the +lantern 52 more, and to the top of the cross other 35. The total height +therefore is, from the floor to the top of the cross, 387 feet. The +circumference of the dome is 466 feet. Three galleries are carried round +the drum. The first is reached by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; +and the third, which runs round the top of the drum and the base of the +dome, by other 65 steps. The appearance of the church from the first and +third galleries is most striking. Outside the third gallery commences +the cornice gallery of the dome. From this part 180 steps (between the +two vaults) lead to the top of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to +the ball the <a name = "florence_cathedral_ascent" id = +"florence_cathedral_ascent">ascent</a> is made up through the lantern by +32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in marble, and 23 in wood. The +number of steps, therefore, from the floor into the ball is 528; the +only difficult part being the vertical bronze bear-like ladder in the +lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little can be seen (and that +little with difficulty) from an aperture in the ball. But the view from +the gallery at the top of the dome is truly magnificent. Florence and +neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on a map, and as the +clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest objects being seen +distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery as early as +possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (<a href = +"#map234">page 234</a>), a practical acquaintance with the +topography of the city. To the N.E., by the Piazza Cavour and the stream +Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 miles distant, on an eminence (see <a href = +"#fiesole">page 276</a>). To the west of the town, on the Arno, is the +Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of trees, on the +other side of the river, is the <a href = +"#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte Oliveto</a> (page 250). To the S.E., on +the other side of the Arno, are the <a href = +"#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">Piazzale Michelangiolo</a> and <a href = +"#florence_san_miniato">San Miniato</a> (page 249), while a good piece +beyond is the <a href = "#florence_torre_gallo">Torre del Gallo</a> +(page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli Gardens and +<span class = "pagenum">254</span> +<a name = "page254" id = "page254"> </a> +<!-- png 308 --> +the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be found +in south sacristy.</p> + +<p>The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 +feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the +superficial area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area +occupied by Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the +foundation-stone of the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole +exterior of the church, with polished white marble, and dark magnesian +serpentine disposed in chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement +often met with in the churches of Italy.</p> + +<p>In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of +the nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the +magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not +struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively +unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble +pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and +stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the +narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated +octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues +of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and +Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and the +reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents +the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G. Vasari, in 1572, and +the rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of +Queen Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular +windows, which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the +twenty-seven long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi +da Gambassi, Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind +the altar is the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of +age), an <i>unfinished Pieta</i>, a heroic group, large but not +colossal, composed of four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin +Mary, Joseph, and an Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the +melancholy but placid countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination +of the head lacerated by the crown of thorns. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_michelangelo_last" id += "florence_michelangelo_last"> +Florence: Michael Angelo’s last Work.</a></span> +The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in the sixth room of the +National Museum, along with some other works of the great sculptor. His +greatest productions are in the <a href = +"#florence_sagrestia_nuova">Sagrestia Nuova</a>, see page <ins class = +"correction" title = "text reads ‘166’">266</ins>. The reliefs in +terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of the sacristies, are +considered amongst the best works of Lucca della Robbia. On the pier at +the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St. James, by Sansovino; and +just behind it, on +<span class = "pagenum">255</span> +<a name = "page255" id = "page255"> </a> +<!-- png 309 --> +the wall, is a painting by Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing +Dante (holding in his hands a copy of his poems), with a view of +Florence in the background, the only monument the Republic raised to him +they had so unjustly banished. In the north transept, covered by the +wooden floor, just under the iron bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, +formed by P. Toscanelli in 1408, and repaired by A. Ximines in +1756. The line drawn on the true pavement, under the present boarded +floor, runs in a direction nearly at right angles to the nave (the nave +being nearly east and west). It is only about 30 feet long, and receives +the image of the sun, at and near the solstice, in June and July; at +other seasons the image is lost on the sides of the cupola. The short +diameter of the image in July is about 36 inches. The height of the +aperture, through which the ray enters by a window of the cupolina, is +277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure; so that, as the +inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_cathedral_monuments" id = +"florence_cathedral_monuments"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: +Cathedral—Monuments—Campanile.</span></a></p> + +<p>Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main +entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood, +a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at +Florence in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, +is by Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble +monument and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. +Cavalcanti. The third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. +The beautiful water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern +entrance, in front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a +sitting posture, of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi +Pampaloni, in 1830. To the right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29, +is a stone in the wall, bearing the words “Sasso di Dante,” because on +it the poet used to sit watching the progress of the cathedral from its +commencement till 1301, when he was compelled to leave the city.</p> + +<p>At the southern entrance is the <a name = "florence_campanile" id = +"florence_campanile"><b>Campanile del Duomo</b></a>, designed and +commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This +dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and +beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys +of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting +from the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of +94½ feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of +apostles, saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture +subjects in bold relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, +Niccolo Aretino, Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent +by 414 steps. Fee, ½ franc each visitor.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">256</span> +<a name = "page256" id = "page256"> </a> +<!-- png 310 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: The Baptistery—Gates.</span></p> + +<p>Adjoining the cathedral is the church of <a name = +"florence_baptistery" id = "florence_baptistery"><b>San +Giovanni</b></a>, the baptistery of the city, founded in 6th cent., and +repaired and restored in 1293 by Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal +building, 94 ft. in diameter, covered by a cupola and lantern built in +1550. <a name = "florence_baptistery_gates" id = +"florence_baptistery_gates">Three celebrated bronze gates</a>, of +admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S. side +(fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and, after +twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The +architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446, +and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V. +Danti, in 1571—a work full of expression. The N. gate is by +Lorenzo Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished +(modelled and cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty +compartments, representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three +statues above, and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, +a fellow-pupil of Michael Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the +eastern end, facing the cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael +Angelo said was worthy to form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel +of art was commenced by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and +finished, with the exception of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when +Ghiberti died, and left the remainder to be completed by his pupils, +among whom were the brothers Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, +representing as many scenes from the Old Testament. In grouping, +drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures are truly admirable. The +perspective is well sustained; the distant objects being done in low, +the nearer objects in middle, and those close upon the eye in high +relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by Sansovino, who, when +he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling; but Danti, in 1560, +produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a century afterwards, +are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_baptistery_altar" id = +"florence_baptistery_altar"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: The +Baptistery—Altar.</span></a></p> + +<p>The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble +pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes +of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the +soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing +the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G. Gaddie, 13th cent. To +the right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. +(d. 1419), by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, +placed here in 1658, and attributed to G. Pisano. The silver altar +of the Baptistery is kept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata +del Duomo” (behind the east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen +any day from 9 to 12, for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long +series of +<span class = "pagenum">257</span> +<a name = "page257" id = "page257"> </a> +<!-- png 311 --> +years from 1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents +in bold relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 +ft. long by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in +1452, weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_bigallo" id = +"florence_bigallo"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: The Bigallo. Or San +Michele.</span></a></p> + +<p>Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the +very beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to +Orcagna, enclosed with iron gates by F. Petrucci. The oratory +contains an image of the Virgin by A. Arnoldo, 1359; and a +predella, with paintings, by Ghirlandaio.</p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_san_michele" id = +"florence_san_michele"> +Or San Michele.</a></h5> + +<p>Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del +Duomo and della Signoria, is the <b>Or San Michele</b>, built at first +of undressed stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or +horreum. Having been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 +under the direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the +commonwealth. To Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to +transform the lower part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper +storey was converted into government offices. Round the building, in +deep niches, are statues in simple attitudes and of noble dignified +forms, the result of a decree that each trade should bear the expense of +furnishing one statue, which should be the protector and supporter of +its own profession. St. Luke, by John of Bologna (good specimen of his +style), was executed at the expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. +Thomas, by Verrochio, for the mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by +L. Ghiberti, for the guild of foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by +Donatello, for the butchers. John the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a +graceful canopy of Robbia-ware, for the silk manufacturers. St. George, +by Donatello, his noblest work, for the armourers. St. James, by +N. Banco, for the tanners and furriers. St. Mark, by Donatello, for +the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by Banco, for the blacksmiths +and farriers. St. Stephen, by L. Ghiberti, for the wool-merchants. +St. Matthew, by L. Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for the stockbrokers +and money-changers. Statues of four canonised sculptors, by Banco, for +the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by Banco, for the hosiers. And +inside the church, to the left of the altar of St. Anne, a Madonna, +by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and apothecaries. These statues +are considered the finest works of the ancient Florentine school. Over +the niches are the arms of the respective trades, under graceful +canopies.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">258</span> +<a name = "page258" id = "page258"> </a> +<!-- png 312 --> + +<p>In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high +altar, by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred +picture of the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictor +Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359.” It is +ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different +pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The +small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light +into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an +admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less +admirably to a Fountain.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santa Croce.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_sta_croce" id = +"florence_sta_croce"> +Santa Croce.</a></h5> + +<p>South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the +narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in +the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico +Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on +the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa +Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded +Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is +according to the old design of S. Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and +owes its erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an +English gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in +1871. The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute +Gothic arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, +are of rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread +out on the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the +display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire +length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the +transepts 128 feet.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santa Croce—Michael +Angelo—Dante—Macchiavelli.</span></p> + +<p>Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St. +Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by +Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main +entrance, after 1st altar, lies the <a name = "sta_croce_michelangelo" +id = "sta_croce_michelangelo">monument and resting-place of Michael +Angelo</a>, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument was +designed by G. Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael +Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by +B. Lorenzione, one of the three. Next follows the great marble +monument by S. Ricci, in 1828, to the memory of <a name = +"sta_croce_dante" id = "sta_croce_dante">Dante</a>, who died when in +exile at Ravenna in 1321, in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, +a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri (d. 1803), by Canova, in +1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this monument is an +elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470. 4th. +<span class = "pagenum">259</span> +<a name = "page259" id = "page259"> </a> +<!-- png 313 --> +Monument and resting-place of <a name = "sta_croce_macchiavelli" id = +"sta_croce_macchiavelli">Macchiavelli</a> (d. 1527), by Spinazzi, +in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707, +raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St. +John and St. Francis, by A. Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone +by Donatello; +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "sta_croce_ketterick" id = +"sta_croce_ketterick"> +Florence: Santa Croce—Ketterick—<br> +Countess of Albany.</a></span> +and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John Ketterick, +Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a mission from +Henry V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument to +L. Bruni (d. 1444), by B. Rossellini. The Virgin, above, +is by A. Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of +P. A. Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. +Veneziani. Turning to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in +London, 1859), and a slab on the ground, with an inscription by +Boccaccio, in honour of the poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the +Chapel of the Castellani, with frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of +Giotto), and reredos by Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; +at each side sarcophagi of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard +and St. Francis, by L. della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the +<a name = "sta_croce_albany" id = "sta_croce_albany">Countess of +Albany</a>, widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, +1824; age, 72 years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the +Countess of Albany follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos +painting by Giotto, frescoes by T. Gaddi, and a Pietà by +Bandinelli.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the +cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the +sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from +the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes +and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of +T. Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the +extremity of the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance +is a shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the +altar, admirable specimens of L. Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The +large relief is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door +to the right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo +were kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two +mausoleums—one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another +attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santa Croce—Giotto’s Frescoes.</span></p> + +<p>Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) +frescoes of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second +chapel, frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte +chapel, is, to the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory +of the wife of Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory +of their daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or +the first to the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with +reredos +<span class = "pagenum">260</span> +<a name = "page260" id = "page260"> </a> +<!-- png 314 --> +by A. del Sarto. On the walls <a name = "sta_croce_giotto" id = +"sta_croce_giotto"><b>Giotto’s best frescoes</b></a>, representing the +stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the +Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S. Francesco, +is by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and +death of San Francesco.</p> + +<p><i>Chapels of the Choir.</i>—Over the high altar, painting by +Andrea Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by +Agnolo Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and +the life of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much +importance, excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in +fresco by Luigi Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with +frescoes on the roof, painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre +Franceschini, surnamed <i>il Volterrano</i>. This chapel contains five +mediocre statues by Francavilla, and two large paintings on wood by +Alessandro Allori, and is also richly decorated with beautiful marbles. +In the adjoining chapel, belonging to the Bardi family, is a crucifix by +Donatello, one of his earliest and best works, yet not equal to that of +his rival Brunelleschi in <a href = "#florence_sta_maria_novella">S. +Maria Novella</a> (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska +mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the +composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Florence: Santa Croce—Galileo—<br> +Bartolini’s Last Work.</span> +Having arrived at the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the +north aisle, to avoid confusion it is better to return to the main +entrance, and walk up the north aisle, commencing with the monument and +resting-place of</p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "sta_croce_galileo" id = +"sta_croce_galileo"> +Galileo Galilei,</a></h5> + +<p>who died in the village of Arcetri (<a href = +"#florence_galileo_house">p. 248</a>), in 1642. Over the cenotaph is his +bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows the +monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G. Lani (1770), +by Spinazzi,—on the column before this monument is a Pietà by +A. Bronzino; 4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat +pyramid; 5th, to Vitt. Fossombroni, by L. Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to +Karolus Marzupinus, the learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by +D. Settignano, 1450; 7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to +<i>Raffællo Morghen</i>, the illustrious Neapolitan engraver, +a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti. Fronting it, on the column, +is the monument to L. B. Alberti, the last work of <a name = +"sta_croce_bartolini" id = "sta_croce_bartolini">Bartolini</a>.</p> + +<p>To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the +cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this +enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works. +To +<span class = "pagenum">261</span> +<a name = "page261" id = "page261"> </a> +<!-- png 315 --> +the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing +the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion +and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco +of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782. +The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the +refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli +which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: National Museum.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_national_museum" id = +"florence_national_museum"> +The National Museum or Bargello.</a></h5> + +<p>At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the +Piazzas Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the <b>National Museum</b>, in the +Palazzo del Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two +Dominican friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, +according to the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. +When, in the 17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the +seat of the head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it +was chosen for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1 fr. +Free on feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the +escutcheons of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground +floor are filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon +cast in 1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the <b>Marzocco</b>, or the +<b>Arms of Florence</b>, a seated lion supporting a shield with its +left paw. Ascend to the first floor by the <i>outside</i> staircase in +the court. It was built by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, +are two bells, one cast in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni +in 1670.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: National Museum.—Sculpture—Michael +Angelo—Bologna—Cellini.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "nat_mus_sculpture" id = "nat_mus_sculpture"><i>First +saloon.</i></a>—All labelled. Principal objects—By <a name = +"nat_mus_michelangelo" id = "nat_mus_michelangelo"><i>Michael +Angelo</i></a>, Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an +unfinished group of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. +<a name = "nat_mus_bologna" id = "nat_mus_bologna">G. da +Bologna</a>, Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, +illustrating Music and its effects, chiefly by L. Robbia and +Donatello. <i>Second room.</i>—Furniture and glass ware. Wax group +by Zumbo. <i>Third hall</i>, the audience chamber of the +Podestà.—Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled ware. <i>Fourth +hall</i>, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in which +prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are +chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east +wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master +Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by +Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is +thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see +them must request the door to be opened. <i>Fifth</i> +<span class = "pagenum">262</span> +<a name = "page262" id = "page262"> </a> +<!-- png 316 --> +<i>saloon.</i>—Two triptychs by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock +crystal by <a name = "nat_mus_cellini" id = +"nat_mus_cellini">Cellini</a>, Bologna, and N. Pisano. Wood carving +by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to the second floor.) +<i>Saloons 6 and 7.</i>—Sculptures by the best Italian +artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the +sixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the +centre, a Child by Donatello. The famous <i>Mercury</i>, by +Bologna. David, by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by +Pollaiolo, representing the Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on +the right by Ghiberti, and the other on the left by Brunelleschi, +prepared for the competition for the doors of the Baptistery of +Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fine ornament by Donatello. At +the beginning of the third wall is a large bas-relief by V. Dante, +representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert; and below it, another +representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are followed by a cabinet full +of sketches by the best artists of the 15th and 16th cents. After these, +the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and +his model in bronze of the Perseus, under the loggia. Ascend now to the +second floor by the stair in the fifth room. 1st room.—Portraits +in fresco by A. Castagno (1450), transferred to canvas a few years +ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained +glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room on the right.—Fine display +of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and Andrea Robbia. Stained glass +window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room (tower).—Tapestry 17th cent. +4th room (on the left of the entrance).—French tapestry and +collection of coins. In the next two rooms, 5 and 6, are the +<b>Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture</b>, which formerly stood in the +galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John the Baptist, by +Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano, 1507, the +Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room 6, in the +centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by Sansovino. +Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St. Peter, by +L. Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John +(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year); +Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall, +bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance +wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a +bust of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a +St. John. Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children +supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna, +by Verrochio.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">263</span> +<a name = "page263" id = "page263"> </a> +<!-- png 317 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: La Badia. House of Michael Angelo.</span></p> + +<p>At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, +is <a name = "florence_la_badia" id = "florence_la_badia"><b>La +Badia</b></a>, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines; +rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by +Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good +monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome +door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the +right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On +the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In +the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni, +d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of +Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by +G. Vasari, and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a Madonna +appearing to St. Bernard, by F. Lippi.</p> + +<p>A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, +is the <a name = "florence_michelangelo_house" id = +"florence_michelangelo_house">house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti</a>, +a plain building, containing a collection of paintings, sculptures, +and sundry objects connected with Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care +of the State by the last member of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in +1858. The gallery is open to the public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 +to 3. Catalogue in Italian or French, ½ fr. The collection is contained +in seven rooms, some very small. In the centre of the first room is a +small bust of Michael Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at +different ages. No. 14, Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in +relief, by Michael Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed +terra-cotta figures by the Robbias, displaying admirably the fine +delicate surface of the enamel peculiar to their productions. Amongst +those who have distinguished themselves in the manufactory of +earthenware is Luca della Robbia, a Florentine goldsmith and +statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and human figures in relief, and +architectural ornaments of glazed earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. +The colours are white, blue, green, brown, and yellow. The art of making +these glazed earthen figures invented by Luca was taught by him to his +brothers Ottaviano and Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his +nephew Andrea. The rooms to the left contain drawings and plans of +Michael Angelo, many being the original sketches of his greatest works. +First room right, the principal room of all, contains the statue of +Michael Angelo in a sitting posture, by Novelli; and around the room +sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in his life. The lower six are in +grisaille. The ceiling is painted in fresco. The next or fourth room +contains the family history, illustrated by twenty-one fresco paintings. +In the small cabinet off this room are, among other things, +a two-edged sword with the +<span class = "pagenum">264</span> +<a name = "page264" id = "page264"> </a> +<!-- png 318 --> +Buonarrotti arms. In the fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, +a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77, a cast in bronze of 74, by +Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust of Michael Angelo. Sixth +room (the Library), large frescoes, representing the eminent men of +Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room off, are Etruscan +antiquities.</p> + +<hr class = "tiny"> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a href = "#florence_san_giovannino">San Giovannino</a>, 264. +<a href = "#florence_san_lorenzo">San Lorenzo</a>, 264. +<a href = "#florence_mortuary">The Mortuary Chapel</a>. +<a href = "#florence_sagrestia_nuova">The Sagrestia Nuova</a>, 265. +<a href = "#florence_laurentiana">Biblioteca Laurentiana</a>. +<a href = "#florence_etruscan">Etruscan and Egyptian Museum</a>, 267. +<a href = "#florence_sta_maria_novella">Santa Maria Novella</a>, 267. +<a href = "#florence_spezeria">Spezeria</a>, 268. +See <a href = "#map234">Plan</a>, near station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: San Lorenzo. Road to the Sagrestia Nuova.</span></p> + +<p>North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and +next the <a href = "#florence_pal_riccardi">Palazzo Riccardi</a> (see +page 275), is the Church of <a name = "florence_san_giovannino" id = +"florence_san_giovannino"><b>San Giovannino</b></a>, rebuilt in the 16th +cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life of Christ, by +Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and Ligozzi. A few +yards west from San Giovannino is <a name = "florence_san_lorenzo" id = +"florence_san_lorenzo"><span class = "smallcaps">San Lorenzo</span></a>, +considered in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan +church of Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, +when it was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and +consecrated by Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in +1417, during a festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs +of Florence, it was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, +and finished by Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form +of a T, 400 feet long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. +The aisles are lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian +columns. The two pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in +relief, by Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by +Meucci. At the north transept is a monument in white marble by +Thorwaldsen to Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the +mortuary chapel. In the south transept is a monument to the memory of a +daughter of General Moltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar +bears the title and age of Cosmo I., but his remains repose in a +black and white marble tomb in the subterranean church. <a name = +"florence_sagrestia_road" id = "florence_sagrestia_road">Those pressed +for time</a> should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. +Lorenzo, turn down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del +Canto de’ Nelli, to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse +of San Lorenzo, +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_underground" id = +"florence_underground"> +Florence: Underground Chapel—<br> +Mortuary Chapel.</a></span> +which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi,” of the Medici +family, and to the still more famous chapel called the <i>Sagrestia +Nuova</i>. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every +other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the +left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. +<span class = "pagenum">265</span> +<a name = "page265" id = "page265"> </a> +<!-- png 319 --> +Guides offer their assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan +alone can unlock the doors. The <a name = "florence_mortuary" id = +"florence_mortuary"><b>Mortuary Chapel</b></a> is octagonal, and covered +with polished marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant +harmony of colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are +continued on the ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of +P. Benvenuti, painted in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a +monument to a member of the Medicean family, from Cosmo I. to +Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son, G. Gastone +(d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the crypt or +lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello near +those of his patron Cosmo I., as well as those of 35 other members +of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of +Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen +cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in +panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these +princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and +built by M. Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I., Duke of +Tuscany, to receive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled +“to the door of the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised +him by the Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having +fulfilled his promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his +predecessor, Cosmo I., and had it converted into the burial chapel +of the Medicean family. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_sagrestia_nuova" id = +"florence_sagrestia_nuova"> +Florence: Sagrestia Nuova.</a></span> +From this chapel a short narrow passage leads to the <b>Sagrestia +Nuova</b>, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing the monuments and +mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and brother of Pope Leo X.; +and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and father of Catherine of +Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of Moses at Rome, are the +greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the edifice was conceived +by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were entrusted in 1521 to +Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing. A formal square +chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble, supported by +two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone called pietra +dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the same tame, flat +style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of Giuliano. He is +represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand gloved and raised. +The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which seems to yield to the +pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the countenance. The two +statues reclining on the urn represent Day and Night. Day is little more +than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have done more would have +weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is +<span class = "pagenum">266</span> +<a name = "page266" id = "page266"> </a> +<!-- png 320 --> +heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined. +The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching +expression—the drooping head and the supporting hand are +unrivalled in the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The +attitude of Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding +as to have acquired for it the title of “il pensiero.” Beneath are the +personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a +superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest +and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right +limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure +of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought, +an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as +if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the +altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the +right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael +Angelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Bibliotheca Laurentiana.</span></p> + +<p>A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of +S. Lorenzo leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by +Vasari, to the <a name = "florence_laurentiana" id = +"florence_laurentiana"><b>Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana</b></a>. The +books are kept in desks. Open from 9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, +1 fr. This library was founded by Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the +remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil of the 4th cent. in Roman +capitals, not very different in form from the letters on ancient Roman +marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a small quarto, with notes; the +notes written in the 5th cent. by the Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, +as his signature attests. This is one of the most ancient legible +manuscript books in Europe of which the period is authentic. The +manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library, with paintings, was said +to be of the 4th cent., of the time of Constantine. The manuscripts of +the middle ages, instead of being in Roman capitals, are written in +letters resembling in some degree the small Roman printed letter now in +use; and, at a still later period, they are in a running hand. This +library also possesses the celebrated manuscript of the Pandects, +supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in the 6th cent., written in +capital letters, which vary a little from the capitals on ancient Roman +marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a large folio book; it was +brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. caused an edition to be printed +from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11th cent. is in a +running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of manuscripts. Many +of them are chained to the desks.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Etruscan Museum.</span></p> + +<p>Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza, No. +<span class = "pagenum">267</span> +<a name = "page267" id = "page267"> </a> +<!-- png 321 --> +144, is the <a name = "florence_etruscan" id = +"florence_etruscan"><b>Etruscan and Egyptian Museum</b></a>. Open from 9 +to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free on Sundays.</p> + +<p><i>First Room</i>, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The +earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the +entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that +in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the +original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the +Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits +were invited by the gods. <i>Second Room</i>, In the centre is the vase +of Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near +Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted +by Clitias. <i>Third Room</i>, Minor objects. <i>First Octagon Room</i>, +Beautiful gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From +this room a corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful +bronze statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan +mirrors. <i>Fourth Room</i>, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of +the celebrated statues of antiquity. <i>Fifth Room right</i>, Armour. +<i>Sixth Room</i>, Etruscan sculpture. Both of the gems of the +collection are in this room—<i>The Orator</i>, a bronze +statue above life size, discovered near Lake Thrasymene; and an +<i>Etruscan Sarcophagus</i>, which lay nearly 2000 years buried in the +earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span> From this we enter, by a passage covered with +inscriptions, into the Egyptian Museum. <i>First Room</i>, In the +centre, a Scythian war-chariot (the only specimen known), and by +the side of it the remains of the Egyptian soldier who probably captured +the chariot in battle. <i>Second Room</i>, The most interesting object +here is the fresco of the <i>Last Supper, by Raphael</i>, in 1505, when +only twenty-two. On the border of St. Thomas’s dress are the date and +name. In the last great hall are sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, +idols, mummies, portraits, and tabernacles.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Santa Maria Novella—Rucellai Chapel.</span></p> + +<p>Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral +and S. Lorenzo, is the church of <a name = +"florence_sta_maria_novella" id = "florence_sta_maria_novella"><b>Santa +Maria Novella</b></a>, facing the piazza of the same name, adorned with +two large obelisks of Serravezza Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine +lilies in bronze, by G. Bologna, 1608.</p> + +<p>This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and +finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L. Alberti, and +erected at the expense of G. Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on +the frieze, “Joannes Orcellarius, 1470.” Affixed to it are gnomonic +instruments, made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco +over the principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a +pupil +<span class = "pagenum">268</span> +<a name = "page268" id = "page268"> </a> +<!-- png 322 --> +of Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a +remarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco +attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the +northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or +right transept, up some steps, is the <a name = "sta_maria_rucellai" id += "sta_maria_rucellai"><b>Rucellai Chapel</b></a>. On the reredos of the +altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his masterpiece. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "sta_maria_ghirlandaio" id = +"sta_maria_ghirlandaio"> +Florence: S. Maria Novella—<br> +Ghirlandaio—Brunelleschi.</a></span> +The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high altar, are +covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D. Ghirlandaio, +nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by +B. d’Agnola, and the windows by G. Fiorentino. In the chapel +on the left, or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden +<a name = "sta_maria_brunelleschi" id = +"sta_maria_brunelleschi"><i>Crucifix by Brunelleschi</i></a>. +A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up some +steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A. Orcagna and his +brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The +open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where, +immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin, +by L. Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by +G. Fortini. A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens +into the cloister called the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the +walls, by Paolo Uccello, 1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted +in green. Here the keeper, for a few sous, opens the door leading into +the Cappella degli Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by +the attendants of Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling +and the left wall are covered with admirably conceived and executed +frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, while those on the right wall are by Simone +Memmi. Adjoining is the Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by +Cigoli, Allori, Tito, Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th +cent., illustrative of the history of the Dominicans, with views of +Florence in the background. +<span class = "headnote added float"><a name = "florence_spezeria" id = +"florence_spezeria"> +Florence: Spezeria.</a></span> +At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the <i>Spezeria</i>, or +pharmacy of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a +red liquor called Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in +taste the liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. +It is also made and sold at the <a href = +"#florence_certosa">Certosa</a> (see page 250). The chapel contains some +beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by +Spinello Aretino.</p> + +<hr class = "tiny"> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a href = "#florence_annunziata">The Santissima Annunziata</a>, 268. +<a href = "#florence_san_marco">San Marco</a>, 270. +<a href = "#san_marco_gallery">Picture-Gallery of San Marco</a>, 270. +<a href = "#florence_fine_arts">Academy of Fine Arts</a>, 271. +<a href = "#florence_mosaics">Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure</a>, +273. +North-east side of <a href = "#map234">Plan</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence. The Annunziata—Narthex Frescoes.</span></p> + +<p>From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, +leads straight to the Piazza and Church of the <a name = +"florence_annunziata" id = "florence_annunziata"><i>Santissima +Annunziata</i></a> +<span class = "pagenum">269</span> +<a name = "page269" id = "page269"> </a> +<!-- png 323 --> +the only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at +12; but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span> On the right side of the Piazza is the Spedale +degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by Brunelleschi, and +ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with pretty terra-cotta +figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre of the square is +an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by Bologna, in +1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The <b>Church of the +Annunziata</b> was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria. At +the entrance is a <a name = "annunziata_narthex" id = +"annunziata_narthex">narthex</a> or vestibule decorated with admirable +frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption +by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J. Pontormo, 1516, +pupil of A. del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, +1513; a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next +picture, an Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; +a Nativity by A. Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del +Sarto; Children being Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite +Filippo Benizzi; a Dead Child recalled to life by touching the Bier +of Filippo; the Cure of a Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by +Lightning who had insulted Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By +Rosselli: Filippo assumes the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also +the tomb of Andrea del Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini.</p> + +<p>The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S. Gallo. +Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the +windows are almost all by C. Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle +are five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short +transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a +cupola painted by B. Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right +transept is the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately +behind the high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by +B. Agnolo (1543), is the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of +Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who constructed this chapel for himself, +and ornamented it with some of his best works. Under the organ in the +second chapel is an Assumption by Perugino. In the third chapel is a +Crucifixion by Stradano, his best work. In the fourth, a copy of +Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day,” by Allori. Next it, and to the left of +the main entrance, is the chapel and shrine of the <i>Annunziata</i>, +built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by forty-one silver lamps and +one gold lamp glittering among costly polished stones. Over the altar is +an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro Cavallini (d. 1364), said to +have been done by angels. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "annunziata_sacred_picture" id += "annunziata_sacred_picture"> +Florence: The Annunziata—<br> +Sacred Picture.</a></span> +This picture is shown only once a year; but a duplicate +<span class = "pagenum">270</span> +<a name = "page270" id = "page270"> </a> +<!-- png 324 --> +of it, also by Cavallini, is in San Marco, on the wall to the right on +entering. Over the altar is an “Ecce Homo,” by An. del Sarto, in silver. +Adjoining is the cloister built by S. Pollaiolo. Over the door +opening into the church is a “Holy Family,” by A. del Sarto, +a production in the highest style of excellence, called the Madonna +del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the background seated on a sack. The +other fresco paintings in the cloister are by Poccetti, +A. Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650), all +displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is also +the chapel of <i>St. Luke</i>, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting the +Virgin,” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by +Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: San Marco—Picture-Gallery.</span></p> + +<p>By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the +Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the <a name = +"florence_san_marco" id = "florence_san_marco"><b>Church of +S. Marco</b></a> (standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence +with <i>San Marco</i>, erected in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by +Michelozzi. Interior.—Over central door a “Crucifixion” by Giotto. +First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before the Cross by S. di Tito, and an +Annunciation by P. Cavallini (covered). Second altar, Madonna and +Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here a small door opens into +the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of Christ by Novelli, and +of S. Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the high altar is the +Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito, Empoli, Poccetti, and +Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of S. Antonino, with +frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a painting by Bronzino. +Between the second and third altars on this the left side of the church, +are the graves of the scholar Pico della Mirandola, d. 1494; the +poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of Poliziano, d. 1494, +tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the right of the main +entrance is the Convent, now the <a name = "san_marco_gallery" id = +"san_marco_gallery"><i>Picture-Gallery</i></a>, of St. Mark. Open from +10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15th and 16th cent. +this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop Antonino +(d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo +Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo +della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in +this convent. Among the very fine frescoes are—On the door of the +church, left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,” +B. Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, “Crucifixion,” with St. +Dominic, B. Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church +opens into the refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing +food to St. Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L. Credi. +Above is a “Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in +<span class = "pagenum">271</span> +<a name = "page271" id = "page271"> </a> +<!-- png 325 --> +the south corner of the east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a +large fresco of the Crucifixion by B. Angelico. A very famous +work. The crucifix on the left is by B. Montelupo, and the other by +his son. The door in the middle of the east wall gives access to the +picture-gallery in the upper storey. At the foot of this stair is a +grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo) by Ghirlandaio, who has +dressed the company in the costume of the brotherhood. From this ascend +to the first floor to what were the cells or rooms of the monks, ranged +on each side of a narrow passage ornamented with paintings in fresco. At +the head of the stair is a very beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, +and also by him, on the opposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the +Cross. Opposite the Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells +of the right corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. +Benedetto, and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, +Fra. Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, +banners used for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by +Benedetto. In the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, +Cosmo de’ Medici (Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait +is by Pontormo, “The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the +beautiful fresco by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by +Angelico. In the third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an +“Adoration” and an “Annunciation.” In the fourth, also by him, other two +famous pictures on wood, the <i>Madonna della Stella</i> and the +<i>Coronation of Mary</i>. Turning to the right we find all the cells +(as far as that of Savonarola), with paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some +pupil of Angelico. In the middle of this corridor is the beautiful +Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of B. Angelico. At the end, in +a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: +a Virgin in <i>terra invetriata</i>, by L. della Robbia; the bust +of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by Bastianini; and a sketch +of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the two little cells at the +side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved some manuscripts, +a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him; as also his +portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the Piazza della +Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his companions. Proceeding +along the corridor, in which there are no cells on the right for some +distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto, the best being a +“Coronation” in the third cell.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Academy of the Fine Arts.</span></p> + +<p>At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via +Ricasoli, is the entrance to the <a name = "florence_fine_arts" id = +"florence_fine_arts"><b>Academy of Fine Arts</b></a>. Open from 9 till +3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. +<span class = "pagenum">272</span> +<a name = "page272" id = "page272"> </a> +<!-- png 326 --> +In the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. +della Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew +of Robbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and +of the Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in +stucco, to the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, +left hand, a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the +large pictures, with 124 paintings, by the following artists: +M. Albertinelli, A. Allori, B. Angelico, Spinello Aretino, +Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti, F. Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, +Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese, A. Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, +Credi, Curradi, C. Dolci, I. Empoli, Gen. da Fabriano, A. and +T. Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Ligozzi, Fra. +F. Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco, S. P. +Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D. Passignani, Perugino, F. Pesellino, +Fra. P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C. Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. +del Sarto, L. Signorelli, G. A. Sogliani, A. Squazelli, +Santi di Tito, Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the +Baptism of Christ, by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator +was painted by Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. +115, by Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the +unearthly expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for +many hours without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is +followed by a chamber communicating with the <b>Tribune</b>, built in +1875, for the celebrated statue of <i>David</i>, sculptured by Michael +Angelo when 28 years of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza +della Signoria, where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door +opens into the Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The +artists of a large number are unknown. The others are by +B. Angelico, S. Aretino, M. Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, +B. Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da Bologna, +S. Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A. Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio, +Bicci di Lorenzo, G. Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of +the small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already +named, the most important being Fra. and B. Angelico, who, with +Sandro Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di +Credi, are better represented here than anywhere else. The most +remarkable are 41, “The Day of Judgment,” by Fra. Angelico. 13, +A “Nativity,” by L. di Credi; and 18, Portraits of two +Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or Perugino. Beyond this is a +collection of original designs in a room called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 +and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and 12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, +10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19, Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. +Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">273</span> +<a name = "page273" id = "page273"> </a> +<!-- png 327 --> + +<p>From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri +Moderni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six +rooms. The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello +Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del +Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517 +to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a +good state of preservation.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "florence_mosaics" id = +"florence_mosaics"> +<span class = "headnote">Florence: Mosaics. Galleria dei Lavori in +Pietre Dure.</span></a></p> + +<p>Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, +is the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from +10 to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases, +specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the +manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with +explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and +alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli, +and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for +sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous +establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are +sold here.</p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "florence_palaces" id = +"florence_palaces"> +The Palaces of Florence.</a></h5> + +<p>The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and +gloomy aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 +to 4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist +of coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and +contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain +wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets, +while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near +the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a +“cantina,” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through, +whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those +that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted +over this niche “Vino é Olio.” The empty bottle, with the money, having +been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the +first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and +barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with +bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of +the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two +different forms—a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile +nearly semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the +interstice between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the +palaces is by a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court +surrounded by +<span class = "pagenum">274</span> +<a name = "page274" id = "page274"> </a> +<!-- png 328 --> +an arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the +highest storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are +decorated, and the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and +gilded, and contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of +thin bricks, either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or +<i>spina di pesce</i> fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces +contain collections of works of art open to the public on certain days. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "florence_pal_vecchio" id = +"florence_pal_vecchio"> +Florence: Palazzo Vecchio.</a></span> +Of these the best are—first, the <b>Palazzo Vecchio</b>, in the +Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is +surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an +excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy +court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi, +substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet in +circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat +little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa +Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and +keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take +first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber, +170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540, +who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling +illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the +second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’ +Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The +lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala +d’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door +is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala +d’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman +history. It communicates with the Cappella S. Bernardo, beautifully +painted in imitation of mosaic by R. Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel +of St. Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de +Toledo, painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow +passage), is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an +adjoining chamber painted by Poccetti.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence: Dante’s House.</span></p> + +<p>North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the <a name = +"florence_dante_house" id = "florence_dante_house"><b>Via +S. Martino</b></a>, in which is a house with a marble slab over the +door, bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighieri +nacque il Divino Poeta.” —<i>Dante.</i> He was married to Gemma in +S. Martino, a humble little church close by, in the <b>Via dei +Magazzini</b>. The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in +the Palazzo Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni +delle Bande Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo I.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">275</span> +<a name = "page275" id = "page275"> </a> +<!-- png 329 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Florence. Palazzo Strozzi, Corsini, Riccardi.</span></p> + +<p>In the Via Tornabuoni is the <a name = "florence_pal_strozzi" id = +"florence_pal_strozzi"><b>Palazzo Strozzi</b></a>, open on Wednesdays +from 11 to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, +rings, and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery +on the first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and +comfortably furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on +a card. The two most remarkable are—<b>Portrait</b> of one of the +ladies Strozzi by Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, +“La Puttina,” by Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the +Piazza S. Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column +of Oriental granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to +Cosmo I. by Pius IV. A short way down the Arno (see plan), at +No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the <a name = "florence_pal_corsini" id = +"florence_pal_corsini"><b>Palazzo Corsini</b></a>, built (1618-56) by +G. Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The collection of paintings, +contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and +Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via Parione.</p> + +<p>Next to the church <a href = "#florence_san_giovannino">S. +Giovannino</a> (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is the Prefettura +della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the <a name = +"florence_pal_riccardi" id = "florence_pal_riccardi"><b>Palazzo +Riccardi</b></a>, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the +Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by +Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici +till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row +of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base, +rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the +projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is +composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the +sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain +beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the +Biblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered +with most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by +lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from +12.30 till 2.</p> + +<p>Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the +Church of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose +the remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the +centre of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The +frescoes in the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by +Giovanni and Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by +Ghirlandaio. A little way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti +is the <a name = "florence_hospital" id = +"florence_hospital"><b>Hospital S. Giovanni di Dio</b></a>, founded +by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in which he lived and died stood on +the site of the present No. 21 Borgo Ognissanti.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">276</span> +<a name = "page276" id = "page276"> </a> +<!-- png 330 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Park of Florence. Villa Careggi. Palazzo Torrigiani.</span></p> + +<p>At the west end of the town, near the <a name = "florence_park" id = +"florence_park"><b>Porta Prato</b></a>, is the Cascine or Park of +Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much frequented in the +afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between the Porta Prato and +the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is the hill <a href = +"#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte Oliveto</a>, page 251. Nearly two miles +north from the railway station by the Romito road is the <a name = +"florence_villa_careggi" id = "florence_villa_careggi"><b>Villa +Careggi</b></a>, built by Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which +he died on August 1, 1464, as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th +of April 1492. At the Ponte alle Grazie, the first bridge above the +Ponte Vecchio, is the <a name = "florence_pal_torrigiani" id = +"florence_pal_torrigiani"><b>Palazzo Torrigiani</b></a>, built by Baccio +d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collection of paintings, accompanied +with catalogues. Open daily excepting Saturdays and Sundays.</p> + + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "fiesole" id = "fiesole"> +Fiesole.</a></h5> + +<p>At the east side of the town, by the <b>Via Alfieri</b> or +<b>Pinti</b>, is the Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio +and Amedeo, the latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the +Porta S. Gallo. From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian +city of Faesula, the modern <i>Fiesole</i>, 3 miles from Florence, +and about 600 feet above it, on the summit of a ridge composed of a +dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to +10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it is an easy walk of about 2½ +miles. See the excellent map of the environs (Dintorni) of Florence, +published by the “Istituto Topografico Militare,” 1 fr. Beyond the +Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the left or east bank of +the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa Palmieri, where, +in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the road ascends +between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent of +S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The +church contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by +Credi; a St. Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with +Saints by B. Angelico. Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, +which was occupied for many years by Walter Savage Landor. The road +striking off to the left or towards the Mugnone, leads to the venerable +abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road +from St. Domenico to Fiesole is rather steep, and passes, at about +two-thirds of the way, the beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens +called the Villa Mozzi or Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo +il Magnifico, and the place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in +1478. A short way beyond, the road enters the Piazza of +<i>Fiesole</i> (pop. 11,500. <i>Inns:</i> Locanda +<span class = "pagenum">277</span> +<a name = "page277" id = "page277"> </a> +<!-- png 331 --> +Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and stone-quarries. One +side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, dedicated to St. +Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S Miniato. To the +right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop Salutati, and a +marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The frescoes on the +ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue of St. Romulus in +a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. In a garden behind +the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The road passing this +garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed of huge +uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and some of +them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the +commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a +Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of +S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +S. Salvi—Vencigliato—Settignano.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "san_salvi" id = "san_salvi"><span class = "smallcaps">S. +Salvi. Vencigliato. Settignano.</span></a>—1¼ mile east from the +Porta S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is +S. Salvi, containing a Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the +refectory. From S. Salvi northwards to the Via Settignano, which +follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the road to the left going +northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its union with the +Frassinaia, is the <a name = "vencigliato" id = "vencigliato"><b>Castle +of Vencigliato</b></a>, founded in the 10th cent., 5 miles +north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on the summit of a +hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored at the expense +of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the part of +Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is <a name = +"settignano" id = "settignano"><b>Settignano</b></a>, the birthplace of +Michael Angelo.</p> + +<p>Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. +The wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. +The straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and +exposed for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is +bought by the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of +plaited straw to the hatters.</p> + +<p>The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally +the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an +inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of +ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very +nourishing to those who can digest them.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "florence_to_vallombrosa" id = +"florence_to_vallombrosa">Excursion to Vallombrosa</a>, Camaldoli, and +Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See <a href = "#map199">Map on page +199</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To Vallombrosa. Take rail to <a name = "pontassieve" id = +"pontassieve">Pontassieve</a>, 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11,000. +<i>Inn:</i> Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, +<span class = "pagenum">278</span> +<a name = "page278" id = "page278"> </a> +<!-- png 332 --> +6 miles east. Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). <i>Inn:</i> Buon +Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr., guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, +8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5½ miles from Pelago, +and the rest by mule or on foot. At Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 +fr. per day, or for four at 20 fr. per day, may be hired for visiting +the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and +proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, +and Poppi, 4 miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses +must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing +path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to +Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from +Bibbiena.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vallombrosa.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the +Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills crowned +with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, intermingled +with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents tumbling from the +crags. <a name = "vallombrosa" id = "vallombrosa"><i>Vallombrosa</i></a> +is situated 2980 feet above the sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, +which rises 2340 feet higher. Although the scenery does not agree +altogether with Milton’s description in <i>Paradise Lost</i>, book iv. +lines 131-159, it possesses that charming loveliness which inspired the +divine poet with the ideas conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity +is clothed with a “woody theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, +and beeches, which in ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade +above shade; or hang from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant +sides are with thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than +their tops” an occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan +scene, while on the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled +colours mixed, from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged +hills, and the wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. +The church and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied +partly by a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet +higher, by a winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage +romantically situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The +scagliola decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +<b>Hugford</b>, who excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, +and in the art of imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. +He died in the last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno +occupies 1 hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the +mountain that shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends +into the Val d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the +middle of the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and +behind it the villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Camaldoli. Sacro Eremo. Alvernia.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The abbey of <a name = "camaldoli" id = +"camaldoli"><i>Camaldoli</i></a>, founded by S. Romualdo, +a Calabrian anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, +in a valley surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the +monastery, on a hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, +is <a name = "sacro_eremo" id = "sacro_eremo"><b>Il Sacro Eremo</b></a>, +the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses an +Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the +ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of +Italy. +<span class = "pagenum">279</span> +<a name = "page279" id = "page279"> </a> +<!-- png 333 --> +About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on <b>Mons Alvernus</b>, a lofty +rock towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into +numberless pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries +hollowed out by nature, is situated the convent of <a name = "alvernia" +id = "alvernia"><i>Alvernia</i></a>, founded by St. Francis in 1213, and +inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a covered gallery leads to +the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in which St. Francis is said +to have received, imprinted on his body, marks similar to those produced +on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion. From Camaldoli and from Alvernia +return to Bibbiena, where the diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. +12,000, whence rail either to Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 +miles north-west. The drive from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, +is very beautiful.</p> + +<p><a href = "#florence">Florence</a> is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by +Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by +quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52 frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. +See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half, <a href = "#page233">page +233</a>.</p> + +<p class = "mynote"> +(Paragraph shown as printed.)</p> + +<p>Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, +Orvieto, and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d +class, 23 frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, +Pontedera, and Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. +45 c.; 2d class, 7 frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale.” To +the price given in the Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be +added.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Busalla. Novi.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "genoa_to_turin" id = +"genoa_to_turin"> +Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. <a href = +"#map199">Map, page 199</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Genoa.</b>—The train after traversing the first tunnel +emerges at the busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. from +Genoa and 2½ m. E. from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and +ascends the valley of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing +six tunnels. Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the +train arrives at <a name = "busalla" id = "busalla"><b>Busalla</b></a>, +14¼ m. N. from Genoa and 89¼ m. S. from Turin. Busalla is +situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest +which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here +also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35 +in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390 +yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous +schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been +hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel +at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the +Scrivia. 33½ m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is +<a name = "novi" id = "novi"><b>Novi</b></a>, H. La Sirena, +a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in +August 15, 1799, a great battle took +<span class = "pagenum">280</span> +<a name = "page280" id = "page280"> </a> +<!-- png 334 --> +place between the French under Joubert and the Austrians and Russians +under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and their general killed. +Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera, and +<b>Pavia</b>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Alessandria.</span></p> + +<p>47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is <a name = +"alessandria" id = "alessandria"><b>Alessandria</b></a>, pop. 30,000, +234¼ m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and +Pistoja. See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half. See <a href = +"#map199">map, page 199</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready. +<i>Hotels:</i> L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name +in compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of +holding 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the +modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal statue +of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto +and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, was +designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at +Alessandria—one in April, the other in October. In the +neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June +1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first +lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From +Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the +minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at +34¾ m. E. from Turin, and 68¾ m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives +at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Asti.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "asti" id = "asti"><b>Asti</b></a> (the <i>Hasta Pampeia</i>, +or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins), a place of 18,000 inhabitants. +H. Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its sparking wines, both red and +white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The +adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which +the existing part is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing +Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandria is the small +Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting on short columns with +square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by +his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The +tertiary strata of the neighbourhood are very rich in fossils. Loop-line +from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct +over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at +Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to <a href = +"#savona">Savona</a>, 82½ m. S. (page 183), and to <a href = +"#cuneo">Cuneo</a>, 46½ m. S.W. (page 183).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking +the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. +died in 1823.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For <b>Turin</b>, see Black’s <i>South France</i>, East half. Loop-line +to Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. farther +west, in the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s <i>South France</i>, East +half.</p> + +<p class = "mynote"> +Paragraph shown as printed.</p> + +<p class = "line"> </p> + +</div> <!-- end div itinerary --> + +<h3><a class = "turin" href = "turin.html">Italian Riviera and the +Alps</a></h3> + +</body> +</html> |