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diff --git a/old/24787-8.txt b/old/24787-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..46d9bd3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/24787-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,22816 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The South of France--East Half, by Charles Bertram Black + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The South of France--East Half + +Author: Charles Bertram Black + +Release Date: March 9, 2008 [EBook #24787] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF *** + + + + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + +[Transcriber's Note: + +This file is for readers who cannot use the "real" (unicode, utf-8) +version of the text. The differences are primarily cosmetic, involving +some fractions and the [oe] ligature common in French words. + +The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage. + +"Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page, +have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph. + +Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and "miles to" +{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners +of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces} +before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at +the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs +describing side excursions do not have mileage information. + +The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the +text, though not in the introductory section: + Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class. + The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class. + +Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.] + + + + + [Map: + Index and Railway Map of France] + + + + + SOUTH OF FRANCE + + EAST HALF + + + + +GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK. + + + SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH. 1s. + + TOURIST'S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, + ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of + SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s. + + CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s. + + BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and + LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d. + + NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF + CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, + etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d. + + TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15 + Plans. Eighth edition. 5s. + + The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the + Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. + + THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to + LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps + and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d. + + FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE + RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE + UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES + between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA, + MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous + Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s. + + +From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884. + + "_C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that + character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally + acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in + which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent + observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' + the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity + of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common + mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest + apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._" + + + + + The + SOUTH OF FRANCE + EAST HALF + + Including the Valleys of + THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE + + The BATHS of + VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE + + The Whole of the + RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN + + With the Inland Towns of + TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA + + and + THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY + + Illustrated with Maps and Plans + + + FOURTH EDITION + + C. B. BLACK + + EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK + 1885 + + + + + _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main +Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements +of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the +stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to +towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these +branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than +that of the towns on the main lines. + +Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of +these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and +either form new routes for himself, or follow those given. + +The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either +from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement. +The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for +Marseilles to Paris. + +The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is +expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the +margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each +other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from +each other. + +In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in +the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is +necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on +such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, +the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited +before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the +day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All +the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on +Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted +on payment of a franc. + +In "Table of Contents" the Routes are classified and explained. For the +Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the +Continental Railways, see "Preliminary Information." + +Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the +Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly +understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it +safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after +sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even +with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial +influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it +prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within +doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the +sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, +walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with +which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such +exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. +Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; +indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the +railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. "I would +strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his +health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, +to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable +situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in +mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of +climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode +of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in +his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances +requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended +to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others +will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due +regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution +can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best +climate, a disease of long standing. + +"It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so +strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have +witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to +deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of +surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in +which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they +left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to +arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate. + +"The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of +living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, +exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called +'sight-seeing,' frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping +late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate +promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was +counteracted by the operation of these causes." --_Sir James Clark on +the Sanative Influence of Climate._ + +SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF. + + Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay + at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore + (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), + Bourbon-l'Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the + eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from + Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin + (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice + (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian + valleys. + + If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, + a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, + on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather + sharp and bracing. + + From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the + baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are + many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), + Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch + by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For + Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz + (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), + Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble + (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From + Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè + (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and + villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the + roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the + western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy. + + None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are + travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. + They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use. + + +The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English +cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., +including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of +the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat +breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; "café au +lait," with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and +the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads +and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small +gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and +trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each, +and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a +gratuity. + +Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a +stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage +should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others +2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See "Railways" in "Preliminary +Information." + + C. B. B. + + + + +PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. + +THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL. + + + The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel + connected by railroad with Paris are:-- + + + Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.; + Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, + 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de + l'Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d + cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs. + + London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily, + except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station. + Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 + miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets, + etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue + St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue + de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis. + + From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel, + Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, + 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st + class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare + station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest. + + From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, + Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40 + minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives + at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through + trains by this line. + + + BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.; + Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. + from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. + 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs. + 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c. + + London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal + route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express + trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class. + Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from + London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the + entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the + railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. + + + CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.; + Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. + from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. + 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. + 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c. + + London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283 + miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London + Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second + class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris, + 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined + in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the + railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord. + + + CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck, + 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, + 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 + minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d + cl. 20 frs. 10 c. + + + DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, + 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, + 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. + 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d + cl. 28 frs. 15 c. + + England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three + times a week from Fenning's Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours. + + + LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville + Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen, + 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from + Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the + Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28 + frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, + 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains. + + London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday, + Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving + Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours. + + + CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.; + Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny + Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, + 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 + hours. + + +FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS. + + On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, + but the time is more accurately kept. + + To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of + luggage free. + + +_Railway Time-Tables._ + + Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only + official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold + at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are + various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the + "Livret-Chaix Continental," which, besides the time-tables of the + French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is + furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The + "Livret-Chaix Continental" is sold at the station bookstalls. Price + 2 frs. + + Next in importance is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," sold at + every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the + time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway + map. + + The great French lines of the "Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest," of the + "Chemins de Fer d'Orleans," of the "Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et + à la Méditerranée," of the "Chemins de Fer du Nord," and of the + "Chemins de Fer de l'Est," have each time-tables of their own, sold at + all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index. + + For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the "Guide Officiel sur tous + les Chemins de Fer de Belgique." Sold at the Belgian railway stations. + Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium. + + For Italy, use "L'Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d'Italia." + Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price + 1 fr. + + In Spain use the "Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles," sold at the + stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, + of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means "arrival"; + _Salida_, "departure." + + In England consult the "Continental Time-tables of the London, + Chatham, and Dover Railway," sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico, + price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d. + + +_In the Railway Station._ + + Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index + of the "Livret-Chaix Continental" the place required, to ascertain the + fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with + refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on + its way. + + On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people + before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are + sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, + proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and + deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also + "bulletins." + + After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a + luggage receipt, is handed you from the "guichet" of the luggage + office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 + sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the + column headed "Nombre de Colis," and see that the exact number of your + articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the + figures 3, 5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this + office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to + present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department, + otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and + thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the + entire number of the party on the "Billet de Bagage" is that, in case + of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the + accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, + after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to + be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket + office, to be re-stamped (être visé). + + The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it + more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case, + having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell + the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his + luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage + again. + + +_On the Railway._ + + In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway + map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens, + Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.--the passengers are frequently + discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await + other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the + names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, + otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our + railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the + direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, + "Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!" and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, + we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the + map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway + map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in + readiness for reference. + + _Buffet_ means "refreshment-room"; and _Salle d'Attente_, + "waiting-room." + + There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for + ladies. + + Express trains have third class carriages for long distances. + + +_Railway Omnibuses._ + + At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of + omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished + by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the + Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of + the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should + the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put + down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to + the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the +MOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY. + +For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the +"Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée." Sold at all their +stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the "Indicatore Ufficiale," 1 fr. +or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains, +those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all +directions. + +In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern +Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and +Dover Railway, 3d. + + PAGE + + +PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, + Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, + Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on + fly-leaf) 1 + + For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide + this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles + (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122). + + +PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1 + + The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the + most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood + of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau. + Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the + largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if + possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify + from this great central railway are + + +La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant, + Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach + awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and + vast church 14 + + From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its + famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where + Thomas à Becket resided. + + Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit + the source of the Seine. + + From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are + the famous Burgundy vineyards. + + +Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. + Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in + France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks. + + +Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial + (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had + several interviews with J. C. + + +Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be + avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important + railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is + Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron + and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station + for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of + St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is + Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne + (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along + the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and + Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See + map, p. 27. + + VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N.E. 44 + + VALENCE TO ARDÈCHE 45 + + CREST TO MONTELIMART 46 + + +Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46 + + Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux + is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain. + + +Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. by Die. This route + traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, + p. 27) 47 + + MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Sévigné died 49 + + +La Croisière to Nyons+, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate + of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the + Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, + 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and + Grenoble (map, p. 27). + + +Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10½ m. east 54 + + Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a + great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among + others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53). + + +Avignon to Nîmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the + Pont-du-Gard 64 + + AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived + for some time 64 + + AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66 + + AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66 + + TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67 + + ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent + Roman remains 71 + + ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhône 72 + + ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal + steamboat 76 and 72 + + ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72 + + LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73 + + +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings + water to Marseilles from the Durance 77 + + +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.+ Aix has + communication by rail and by coach with very many of the + neighbouring towns 78 + + +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône+ (map, + p. 27) 81 + + PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St. + Etienne 81 + + +La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in + the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83 + + The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83 + + LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL TO LE BÉAGE (map, p. 85) 84 + + LE BÉAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85 + + LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88 + + LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89 + + DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89 + + CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90 + + LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol + station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91 + + LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92 + + +Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93 + + This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals + and the interesting volcanic mountains in the + neighbourhood. + + PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94 + + PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the + Loire (p. 84) is visited 95 + + MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96 + + RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the + Pont d'Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. + Esprit (p. 98) 96 + + PONT D'AVIGNON, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for + Avignon 99 + + REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99 + + NÎMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105 + + + THE RIVIERA. + + +The Riviera.+ Hotels, productions, climate 107 + + +Marseilles.+ Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111 + + +MARSEILLES to MENTON.+ The French Riviera 122 + + Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little + towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123). + From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the + neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in + the interior. The most start from the Place d'Italie + (pp. 124 and 129). + + Toulon to Dardenne from the "Place" to the W. of the + Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget + (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the + Place d'Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place + d'Italie (p. 128). + + Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by + diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a + picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau + and Pierrefeu (p. 130). + + Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier + (p. 127), to the Iles d'Hyères or d'Or (pp. 124, 131). + + +The Iles d'Or.+ Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131 + + +Toulon to Hyères+ 132 + + +Hyères.+ Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, + productions, climate 133 + + Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of + Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); + to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez + (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or + coach to Le Luc (p. 144). + + +La Pauline.+ Diligence and train to Hyères 142 + + +Carnoules.+ Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing + Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142 + + +Le Luc.+ Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure + mountains 144 + + +Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan + diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and + Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other + diligences 145 + + +Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to + Cap d'Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to + Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to + Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de + Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and + Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien + (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and + Californie (p. 152). + + +Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence + (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), + Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166). + + +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to + Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180 + + +Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From + St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée + ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio + (map, p. 165). 182 + + +Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182 + + +Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and + Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183 + + +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant + walk 185 + + +Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189 + + +Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tête de Chien 191 + + +MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian + Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200 + + BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201 + + SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205 + + +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera, + or the Riviera di Levante 219 + + +Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting + excursion 222 + + PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227 + + PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227 + + LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230 + + FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277 + + GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway + journey 279 + + END OF THE RIVIERA. + + + +PARIS to TURIN+ 281 + + +PARIS to MODANE+ 281 + + AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286 + + +Modane to Turin+ 291 + + BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291 + + +Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305 + + TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306 + + PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d'Abriés 307 + + PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrières 307 + + SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308 + + CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341 + + +TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna + 309 + + ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint + Bernard 320 + + +PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is + the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the + picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the + Ecrin mountains 322 + + GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327 + + +Grenoble to Briançon+ by Bourg d'Oisans and the Col de + Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328 + + BOURG D'OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin + group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329 + + BRIANÇON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345 + + BRIANÇON TO OULX by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333 + + +Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps + another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the + pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333 + + GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336 + + +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, + Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, + p. 27) 338 + + ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339 + + DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304) + 339 + + DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339 + + +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N.E. + by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of + several of the important passes between France and Italy 340 + + GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341 + + BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341 + + GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342 + + MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344 + + PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346 + + PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348 + + LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349 + + PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map + on fly-leaf) 351 + + MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L'ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny + and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356 + + MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and + Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357 + + ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS TO VICHY 359 + + CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376 + + LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377 + + MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385 + + A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude + railway station. + + + + +MAPS AND PLANS. + +PAGE + + + +Ardèche+, general map of, including the northern part of + the department of Drôme and the southern of the + Haute-Loire 46 + + This map contains a large part of the valleys of the + Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, + Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc., + the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc. + + +Arles+, a town of great interest 68 + + +Avignon+, Plan of 59 + + +Bologna+, Plan of 316 + + +Cannes+, Environs of 155 + + Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. + + +Cannes+, Plan of 149 + + +Corniche Road+ 185 + + Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice + to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more + beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending + along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway. + + This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco, + and Menton. + + +Dijon+, Plan of 20 + + +Estérel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+ + 146 + + +Florence+, Plan of 234 + + The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana + up to the Piazza Michelangiolo. + + +Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237 + + The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast + edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long + corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the + river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by + the upper story of the houses bordering the Via + Guicciardini. + + +Genoa+, Plan of 214 + + +Hyères+, Environs of 129 + + As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the + same, the environs of both towns are given on the same + map. + + +Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to + Leghorn 199 + + Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di + Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the + "Rhône and Savoy," and parts on a larger scale on the + maps of the "Corniche Road" "Marseilles to Cannes," and + the "Durance to the Var and San Remo." + + +Leghorn+, Plan of 226 + + +Lyons+, General plan of 30 + + +Lyons+, Partial plan of 33 + + +Marseilles+, Plan of 113 + + +Marseilles to Cannes+ 123 + + This map shows the position of the towns and villages on + the coast and in the interior, the roads between them + and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, + enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side + are given the "Iles d'Or," called also the "Islands of + Hyères," of which the largest is Porquerolles. + + +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 + + This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d'Albigny to + Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to + Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by + Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. + Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake + Annecy. + + +Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378 + + +Nice+, Plan of 171 + + +Nîmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101 + + +Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated + towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, + Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to + the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1 + + +Pisa+, Plan of 224 + + The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find + their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, + the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The + frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the + cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who + have to remain over the night should take one of the + hotels close to the station. + + +Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_ + + This map shows all the railway routes in France and + their correspondence with the railways in Belgium, + Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the + railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône. + + +Rhône and Savoy+ 107 + + This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, + with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. + The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The + French Riviera. + + +Savona to Rapallo+ 211 + + Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter + stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, + Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. + + +The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163 + + This map shows principally the position of the towns in + the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near + Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the + diligences which run between France and Italy. + + +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the + mountain-passes between them 304 + + +The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardèche; + among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the + source of the Loire 84 + + +The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the + railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200 + + +The Mouths of the Rhône+ 66 + + Showing the position of the canals and of the great + lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are + Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon, + Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from + the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from + Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther + down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne + canal (p. 66). + + +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance+, in + which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. + Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of + interest 56 + + +Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107 + + +Toulon+, Environs of 129 + + This map will be found very useful in the excursions + by the small steamers sailing from the port. + + +Troyes+, Plan of 12 + + +Turin+, Plan of 293 + + +Vichy+, Plan of 359 + + + + +CARTE DU JOUR. + +The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of +some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the "Cartes du Jour" of the +restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated. + + [Transcriber's Note: + The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may + require added salt.] + +SOUPS. + + _Consommé_, beef-tea. + _Bouillon_, broth. + _Potage_, soup. + _Julienne_, vegetable soups. + _Purée_, pease-soup. + _Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means "mashed," as-- + _Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes. + " " _marron_, mashed chestnuts. + +BEEF. + + _Boeuf au naturel_, or simply "nature," plain boiled beef. + _Naturel_ in cookery means "plain." + _Boeuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots. + Nearly the same as the next. + _Boeuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables. + _Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef. + _Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables. + _Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices. + _Sauté_ in cookery means "sliced." + _Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes. + In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_. + _Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak. + " _aux pommes_, with potatoes. + " _aux pommes sautées_, with sliced potatoes. + " _aux haricots_, with kidney beans. + " _bien cuit_, well done. + " _saignant_, under done. + _Palais de Boeuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate. + _Au gratin_ in cookery means "baked" or "broiled"; when applied + to potatoes it means "browned." + +MUTTON. + + _Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops. + " " " _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs. + " " " _aux pointes d'asperge_, mutton chops with + asparagus tops. + " " " _à la purée de pommes_, mutton chops with + mashed potatoes. + _Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton. + _Pieds de mouton_, sheep's trotters. + _Gigot d'agneau_, a leg of lamb. + _Blanquette d'agneau_, hashed stewed lamb. + _Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys. + " _sautés_, sliced kidneys. + _Etuvé_, stewed. + +VEAL. + + _Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet. + _Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf's head with oil and vinegar. + _Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf's ear. + _Ris de veau_, sweetbread. + _Foie de veau_, calf's liver. + _Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal. + _Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy. + _Jus_, gravy. + +VEGETABLES. + + _Pommes de terre_, potatoes. + _Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits. + _Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce. + _Chou_, cabbage. + _Champignons_, mushrooms. + _Epinards_, spinage. + _Fêves de marais_, garden beans. + _Haricots verts_, green kidney beans. + _Oseille_, sorrel. + _Petits pois_, green peas. + _Jardinière_ means "dressed with vegetables." + +POULTRY AND GAME. + + _Poularde_, fowl. + _Poulet_, chicken. + _Chapon_, capon. + _Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken. + _Des oeufs à la coque_, boiled eggs. + _Dindonneau_, young turkey. + _Canard_, duck. + _Perdreau_, partridge. + _Mauviettes_, field-larks. + _Alouettes_, larks. + _Grives_, thrushes. + _Becasse_, woodcock. + _Becassine_, snipe. + _Chevreuil_, venison. + _Caille_, quail. + +FISH. + + _Anguille_, eel. + _Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings. + _Homard_, lobster. + _Huitres_, oysters. + _Merlans_, whitings. + _Morue_, cod. + _Raie_, skate. + _Saumon_, salmon. + _Sole_, sole. + _Turbot_, turbot. + _Frit_, fried. + _Grillé_, done on the gridiron. + +DESSERT. + + _Compote_, applied to fruits, means "stewed." + " _de pommes_, stewed apples. + " _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes. + _Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters. + " " " _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters. + _Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds. + +DRINK. + + _Vin de Bordeaux_, claret. + A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought + always to be drunk with it, or with common water. + At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying + a little extra. + _Frappé_, applied to liquids, means "iced." + _Caraffe frappé_, iced water. + _Vin frappé_, iced wine. + The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a + _choppe_. + The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, a word + often used in the cheap restaurants. + + + + + [Map: + Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c.] + + +THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA. + + + +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, + Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+ + + ++PART I.--PARIS TO MARSEILLES.+ + +BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles. + + Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For + "London to Marseilles," see under that head in the "Continental + Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway." Through + tickets sold at their London office. + + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{ }{537} ++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, +No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or +40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices, +distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station. +Opposite the station is the H. de l'Univers, and a little farther off +the H. Jules César. + +_Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details +as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map +page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the +London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to +Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; +starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and +arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 +A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts +for Hyères at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class +carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate +compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to +Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, +not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to +Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense; +moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most +inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey +from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6. + +The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois +de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which +here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a +large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. +St. +Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Château d'Alfort a veterinary college +with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It +contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for +the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the ++Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and +Robespierre resided here some time. + +[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.] + +9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop. +1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing +through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yères, +pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of +Henri IV. + + On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on + the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas + Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and + the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and + his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English + literature. + +[Headnote: MELUN.] + + 13¾ m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was + inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the + Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the + Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. + from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000. + _Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St. + Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun, + the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and + the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which + here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names + of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. + Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway + station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on + the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is + the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied + tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the + church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre + Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, + in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an + elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled + chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square + tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire. + In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 + windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is + the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in + the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in + 1514, "Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me + siècle." Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of + ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome + fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry + St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, + the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the + north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent + pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau + of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From + Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, + where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau. + + +[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.] + + {37}{500} + +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from + the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 + c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most + expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et + Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d'Or. At the end of the + main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la + Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is + the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. + The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated + among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension + Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come + for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the + Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is + a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller's with + maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest; + a good confectioner's shop and some restaurants, where refreshments + can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid + of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments + at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the + Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes' walk. + + Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held. + + _Coach Tariff._--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue + Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the + forest in the shop opposite. + + A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the + day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 + frs. for the day. + + Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following + prices:-- + + A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the + first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour. + + A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first + hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c. + + A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an + hour. + + Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day. + + +Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to + enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which + cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and + footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by + congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each + bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. + The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of + the rooms on the left side of the "Cour des Adieux," or "du Cheval + Blanc," which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is + expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not + obligatory. + + To see the "appartements reservés" an especial order is requisite, + procured by letter addressed to "M. Le Commandant des Chateaux." The + "appartements reservés" comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes + a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the + household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in + showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give + will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed. + + The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by + Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former + edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. + Henri IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the + buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of + Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon + it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large + sums. + +[Headnote: ENTRANCE.] + + The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL + BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is + also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by + nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the + ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself + away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On + the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the + island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the + splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his + wretchedness. + + As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the + following abridged list should be read before entering. + +[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITÉ.] + + The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which + has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars + in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place + entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinité+, built by Francis I. in 1529, + and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish + ambassador having remarked that "the palace would be more beautiful if + the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty." Louis XI. was + married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was + pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The + paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and + Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the + reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The + statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St. + Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the + escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze + angels are by G. Pilon. + +[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.] + + Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the + Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785. + Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass + now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to + the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on + which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids, + birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+, + containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on + which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with + rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the + Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling + represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed + restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons. + Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of + relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon + de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. and +Henri + IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany + table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue + symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling + arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais + tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built + by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which + Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used + to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and + painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis + XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000. + +[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.] + + APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on + ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On + console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by + the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by + Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts + (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de + Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie, + wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery + and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city + of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest + satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis + XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy, + 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain + table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the + + GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided + into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing + mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the + sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated + on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second + daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the + room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, + in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then + fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by + Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the + murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut + off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made + him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. + Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud + with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he + was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. + from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen + Christina's chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her + secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore + the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and + beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the + unhappy man, she replied with petulance, "that she could not, and that + many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as + this coward." + + At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with + indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the + goddess Diana. + +[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS +AND DES GARDES.] + + We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes + by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, + 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, + not shown (see page 8). The other leads into + + LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt + compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des + +Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of + Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie. + +Salon de François I.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their + dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry + represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco + by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and + 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry. + +Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the + earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates + the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was + born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the + story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the + Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble + chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian + statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. + Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. + Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis + Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are + portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the + Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine + Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance; + Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with + figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet, + 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at + each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty + little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with + the ceiling, leads to the + + ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV., + was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d'Etampes. The frescoes, + representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo + dell' Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol. + + GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in + the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one + side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the + same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I., and + decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls + are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, + Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, + is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls, + mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of + Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered + with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one + of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed + (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter + the + + GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210 + ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a + communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. + Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. + The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, + but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. + From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the + + APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited + by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.), + whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by + Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of + Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for + Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have + visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the + Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and + other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as + the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio's best works. Cabinet + (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather. + Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung + with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+ + Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with + Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing + the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+ + (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic + given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by + Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David. + Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest + in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead + of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de + Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of + Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d'Attente. Gobelins dating + from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. + +Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. + Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques. + + GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this + gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise + Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and + some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the + walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and + incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery + leading to the + + SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for + 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII., + adorned with a statue of him in stucco. + + +[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.] + + LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES. + + +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return + from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The + painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs + by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar + is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at + Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in + 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was + ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about + the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration. + + Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à + Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same + dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the + right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I. + + Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+, + ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed. + It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6). + + Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with + pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by + J. B. Oudry. + + Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, + saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than + that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the + revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such + cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble + pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see + p. 7). + + The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection + of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial + permission. + + +THE COURTS. + + From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe + staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side + facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through + the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have + before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to + the left the +Porte Dorée+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour + Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes + on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The + subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. + And by this portal the Duchesse d'Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, + driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left + we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow + buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the + Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal + entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices. + + At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d'Armes, connected + with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de + Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the + artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The + gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing + particular. + +[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.] + + Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide + themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt + de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate + the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction. + The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of + the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three + principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:-- + + 1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de + Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle + Vue--Barbison par le Bas Bréau--Gorges d'Apremont et Franchard. + + 2. Vallée du Nid de l'Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d'Augas--Vue sur le + champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la + Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort + l'Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa. + + 3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare + aux Fées--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd. + Maitre. + + The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole + forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from + Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second contains the + best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as + from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially + from the Fort de l'Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the + 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long + Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. by rail + from Fontainebleau. + + After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous + grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls + and trellis-work. + + +[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{42}{495} ++MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, +with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates +Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is +principally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. +7½ m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of +the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system. + +Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town. +_Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office. +Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if +time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish +church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining +of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is +the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or +rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here +unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of +Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates +the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill +overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville. +Montereau has important potteries. + + +[Headnote: SENS.] + +{71}{466} ++SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street, +the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the +promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue +of the chemist Thénard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street +is the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulême, when she +visited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which, +together with the promenade, form agreeable walks. + +[Headnote: THOMAS À BECKET.] + + The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly + rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without + beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a + belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating + with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed + arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered + colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured + canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a + beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, + first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining + chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by + G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the + next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall + by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in + the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied + by the Soeurs de l'Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by + superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on + entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass + case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple + worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining + the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove + that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by + Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century, + and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is + valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. + Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. + Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored + by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the + church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the + present buildings that existed in Becket's time is the piece parallel + to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the + Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and + 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the + foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and + canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages + were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom. + Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour. + +[Headnote: TROYES.] + + 41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l'Etat is TROYES, pop. + 39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal + street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the + Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.] + + Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, + canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the + machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, + which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds + sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, + of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. + Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station + being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most + beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished + till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of + these intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th + century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. + Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower + rising above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and + the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the + nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the + front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty + clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The + height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The + glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and + over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The + marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of + choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in + wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V. + of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of + Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous + treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the + exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI. + should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a + Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the + church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury, + of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century, + reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th + century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the + reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, + St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few + yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the + _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a + large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes. + Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul's + Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or + picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.; + [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a + valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and + works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French + sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days + from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short + distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little + beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the + sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th + century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture, + the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the + 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used + to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler. + A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix + over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de + l'Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the + plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is + +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon, + while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of + the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel "O Sacrum Convivium," + are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by + the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the + Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+, + commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent + jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The + beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The + nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic + architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West + from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To + the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary + containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a + statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the + dead. + + [Map: Troyes] + + Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on + entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are + beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel + of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. + The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on + consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery. + + South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its + continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. + Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of + the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village + and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west + portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and + ornamented by Gentil. + + Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we + have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two, + 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff. + +[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.] + + The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo + during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city. + Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in + 1814. + + +[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{79}{458} ++VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle +here of Pulteau the man "au masque de Fer" spent some days while on his +way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint +Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or 84 m. from Paris, is +St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, +nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which +the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong +to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th +cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a +ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent. + + +{91}{446} ++JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between +the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right +bank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most important +part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which +are situated St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; +and St. Thibault, 15th cent. + + +{96}{441} ++LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon +and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les +Laumes, 79½ m. southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, +Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.) + + +[Headnote: AUXERRE.] + +LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES. + + 12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the + hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the + most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, + to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or + Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was + rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over + the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are + crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and + of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and + the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet + high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S. + transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. + Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in + the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of + St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in + the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated + tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the + 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic. + + Near the Hôtel de l'Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the + 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the + capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around + the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk + is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and + Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.) + + 13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d'Or, on + the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the + well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, + Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality + of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty + flavour. + + Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hôtel de l'Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly + a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the + junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les + Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and + 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.) + +[Headnote: SERMIZELLES.] + + 37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from + Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant), + for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there + is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private + vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont + Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then + back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354. + +[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.] + + +Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed + town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical + edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le + Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the + 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of + the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior + is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The + doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide + expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large + window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a + spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities + connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate + the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it + is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave + opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed + windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing + from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar + capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and + choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches + which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door + opens into what was formerly the "salle capitulaire," built in the + 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who + also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir. + Near the abbey church is St. Martin's, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, + now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as + parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas à Becket celebrated + mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful + forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of + excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have + included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at + that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under + Richard Coeur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out + on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June + 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms + Calvin expired. + + 1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of + the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St. + Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban. + +[Headnote: SEMUR.] + + 9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the + Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. + Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of + Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for + Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An + interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards + of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from + fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Forêt de + Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine + in rafts. + + After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and + then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. + 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte d'Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the + Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre + Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in + the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a + sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; + the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In + this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet + high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant + walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the + ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main + line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map + page 1.) + + +[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{107½}{429½} ++SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In +town, H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach +starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of +Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road +separates from the Chablis road. + +Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The +parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The +windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces. +The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes +standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful +rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a +relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection +of Jesus Christ. + +At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, +but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the +abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, +13 m. S.W., stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the +church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with +narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand +and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is +upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11 +chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed +windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly +similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are +the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a +village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden +coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the +building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the +sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for +the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey +buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited +by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to +wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious +deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an +austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with +engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund. + +Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained +till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to +Sens. + + +[Headnote: TONNERRE.] + +{123}{414} ++TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or; Courriers-- +both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion +d'Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the +cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right +above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, +enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse +Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the +washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d'Or leads down +to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by +Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her +remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar +(died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis +de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some +excellent wine. + + +[Headnote: TANLAY.] + +{127½}{409½} ++TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armançon. A small village with a handsome +castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de +Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of +Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The +principal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the +Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under +the presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents, +under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the most +prominent part in the political and religious events of that period. +Catherine de Médicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the +Condé as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed +recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the +splendid chimney-pieces is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds +are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, +both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, +pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for +truffles. + + +[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.] + +{136}{401} ++ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, +and built according to the plans of Primaticcio. + + +{142}{395} ++NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris and +Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles +north-east to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. +In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of +Rochefort, 17th and 18th cents. + + +[Headnote: MONTBARD.] + +{151}{386} ++MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la +Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small village +on the 7th of September 1707. His château, a plain large house, is +entered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station. +The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the western +front of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows and +one door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue his +studies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds of +the château, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of the +Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by his +son, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days +before the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at the +entrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb of +Buffon. A black stone slab over the door bears the following +inscription:-- + + BUFFON + A été inhumé dans le + Caveau de cette chapelle + Le 20 Avril 1788. + +There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the +abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill. + + +{160}{377} ++LES LAUMES.+ _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount +Auxois, 1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from +the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_ +H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under +Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands +just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has +some curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of +September. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a +beautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of +the abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable +collection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. +(See page 14.) + + +{165}{372} ++DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steep +mountains 1315 ft. high. _Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are +curious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus +at station for +Flavigny+, 1½ mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 +ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent., +with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Convent +of the Ursulines, with splendid view. + + +[Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE.] + +{171¼}{365¾} ++VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the ++Source of the Seine+, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the +woods, but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the +village of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards +Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the +farmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left +and follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte +d'Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first +the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine +(1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a +little garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house +beyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of a +recumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or +guide 5 frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please +can go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles +south, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d'Or. With a 14th cent, church. +A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine +is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant. + + +{179}{358} ++BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces +through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet +long, and 1330 feet above the sea. + + +{190}{347} ++VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and before +reaching the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold +railway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers +of arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. +From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from +Nevers. (For Autun, see page 24.) + + [Map: DIJON + + The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle + built by Louis XI., now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the + Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large + building at the foot of the Rue Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient + Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Hôtel de Ville, the + Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 + St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is + the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No. 8) is St. + Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is + St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.] + +[Headnote: DIJON.] + +{196}{341} ++DIJON+, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_ +La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Near +the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and the +Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous for mustard, +gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis. + +Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding hour. +Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. +Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, +82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent +road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See page 19.) + +[Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS.] + +The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was +inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire; +but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, the +Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor, +and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, and +commanding a bird's-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, and +is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des Beaux +Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the right +side of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Other +days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are the +magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son +Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the +two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white +marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty +statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the +articles which belonged to them in this room are three +beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service; +and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and +the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died +1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two +statues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, +but in reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few +choice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is +considered one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and +the kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. +Fronting the Palais is the Place d'Armes, with its shops and houses +arranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue +des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence +of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the +spiral staircase is the "Homme au panier," a statue 4 feet 6 inches in +height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or +serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring, +like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the +roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine +Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54 +of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double +arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME.] Close to the +Rue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, a very beautiful +and interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is +the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the Rue +Chaudronnière, the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from the +front of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly the +palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d'Assises +is of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same +room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty +little chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre +is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the +18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street, +R. Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious +frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue +Guillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in +1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and +a little to the N.E. by a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. +Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau +beside the curious little church, 2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. +[Headnote: ST. BENIGNE. ST. JEAN. BOSSUET.] Towards the right is St. +Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built +in 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. +The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the +13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski +(1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In +the N. aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains of +Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a +narthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillery +store. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean, +founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in +1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery +of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without +merit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this +"Place," 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and +illustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death of +Henrietta Anne, the daughter of our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of +Orleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALIÉNÉS.] At +the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile des +Aliénés+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379. +Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are the kneeling +effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts. +Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautiful +glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken to +the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of a +hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets, +by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the ducal monuments +in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful, +and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on an +average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but an +admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura +are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its charges +are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number of +pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d'eau, +and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards the +extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southern +continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny, +the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to the +public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopes +of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d'Or, extending from N.E. +to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises +another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering the +lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow the +first-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Macon +wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten years +in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years. + + +[Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.] + +{203}{334} ++GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1¼ mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for their +first-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin. +Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in the commune of Gevrey, +produce also first-class Burgundies. + + +{206¼}{330¾} ++VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier. +Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class +Burgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, +Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache. + + +{209½}{327½} ++NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The +best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of an +exquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St. +Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. +8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house of +detention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to be +agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in +1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order, +and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St. +Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798. + + +[Headnote: BEAUNE.] + +{219}{318} ++BEAUNE+, pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream +Buzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal in +Burgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it +are the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of +these the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most +valuable wine, under the names of Bouche d'Or and Caillerets, and the +Pommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The +principal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains +semicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian +capitals. + +In the Place Monge, off the street de l'Ile, is a bronze statue to +Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in +1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic +School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the +15th cent.--a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseil +upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting of +the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, with +a château built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, +the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée. + + +[Headnote: MEURSAULT.] + +{223½}{313½} ++MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits +passengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here are +the Goutte d'Or, a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white +wine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, +where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown. + + +{228}{309} ++CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers +102 m. W., passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. W., +and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagny +southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around +Chagny produce a first-class quality. + + Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in + this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles distant is + the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a deep + fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of the + castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a + remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal + mines. + +[Headnote: AUTUN.] + + 26 m. W. from Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche. + This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves + the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent + a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period, + when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his + headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that + the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into + Autun. Napoleon III., in his "History of Cæsar," considers, however, + that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14 + miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of + pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been discovered. The + walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and 8 feet thick, and + were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of + which two--the Porte d'Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. André, + lately restored--still remain. The Porte d'Arroux and the temple of + Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the + Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of + the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the + entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern + portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers + have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior + contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a + handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the + Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads + to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great + antiquity. + + In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the + Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789 + Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun. + +[Headnote: MONTCHANIN.] + + 73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, is + +Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits + passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly + of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, + foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town + is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which + connects the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin. + +[Headnote: LE CREUSOT.] + + 78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from + Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in + the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the + principal street, the Rue d'Autun. Their coaches await passengers. + Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which + enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the + coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them + from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling + suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general + feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, + shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few + priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two + hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 + by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is + imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all + manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise. + + West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is +Etang+, with an + ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the + Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. + Honoré-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. + E. from Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy + by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix, + close to station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ + Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in + the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, + which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish + church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the + 10th cent., containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle + works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes. + + +[Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{235}{302} ++CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ at the station, Hôtel +Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer to +Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plain +on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good +quays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, a Gothic edifice of the +latter part of the 13th cent., occupying the site of a church founded in +532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St. +Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, and +another at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon +is St. Marcel, where Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but +the monastery has disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. +3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to + + +{243}{294} ++VARENNES.+ South from this station the train passes before the abbey of +St. Ambreuil. + + +{254}{283} ++TOURNUS+, on the Saône, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An +untidy town on the Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the +Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the +citizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among +the finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here +on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting +Gothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and +the latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. +The Hôtel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, +and the Hôtel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce +good wines. + + [Map: + The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy.] + + +[Headnote: MACON.] + +{274}{263} ++MACON+, pop. 20,000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with +line to Bourg, 41 m. E. _Hotels._--Near the station, H. Étrangers. In +town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the +steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons, +Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs +Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an +inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays +which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12 +arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of +the river. The oldest edifice is the +Cathedral+ of St. Vincent, built +in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, and +the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal +palace. In this neighbourhood, at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house +where Lamartine was born. On a black marble slab over the door are the +words:--Ici est né Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre +1790. + +In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, the +beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque style, +and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville. + +From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to Paray-le-Monial, +passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line extends to Geneva +74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See +Black's _France_, North Half, and map page 1.) + +[Headnote: CLUNY.] + + +Cluny+, pop. 5000. In the valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne; + Pavilions--both near each other. This is the place where + Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in the 10th cent, the famous abbey of + Cluny. The abbey buildings are now used as a school. Of the abbey + church an insignificant portion alone remains, and of it the most + interesting part is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th + cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards + distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., with flattened + elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the + entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the first + church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum; + entrance, ½-franc each. + +[Headnote: PARAY-LE-MONIAL.] + + 41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial, + pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across the + bridge, the Lion d'Or; at the head of the principal street, near the + Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the + Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de + Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice + built in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to + it, occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office. + + A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish + church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th + cent. Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal + roofs, llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an + octagonal tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated + spire. From the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and + short attached columns. + + From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads + up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and + established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the + monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their + chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in + 1854. To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in + this building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her + interviews with J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are painted + light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so hung + with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of them + is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3 angels + before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair and dressed + in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red and + outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds + her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of + her. To the left of entrance the pictures are--1st, a Vision; 2d, + Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of + Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The picture + over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when J. C. + is said to have declared to Margaret: "I have chosen and sanctified + this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for ever." On + the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied by + numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders + of the "Visitation" and of "Jesus" (the Jesuits) were to have the + special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship + there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of + J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing one + of the above incidents. + + The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in + the habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a + coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with + rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. + long. On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; + at other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made + of one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born + 22d July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the + convent of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the + vows on the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had + been chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was + seized with a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her + life. She met at first with great opposition in her endeavours to + institute the worship of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as + a visionary till 1675, when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of + the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last + illness she said: "I shall die in peace, because the heart of my + Saviour commences to be known." She died in October 1690, and was + canonised by Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution + of N. D. de Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has + decreased. In Paray there are 3 nunneries and a vast building + belonging to the Jesuits. + + From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône, + whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page + 26. + + +[Headnote: ROMANECHE.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{283}{254} ++ROMANECHE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, +with a pleasant flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should +be drunk in the second year from the vintage. + + +[Headnote: BELLEVILLE.] + +{288½}{248½} ++BELLEVILLE+, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the +next Belleville, 1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, +the H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small +round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in +those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small +circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the +Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to +Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious +houses. (Map, page 26.) + + +{297}{240} ++VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 12,600, on the river Morgan, near the +Saône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. Containing important linen +manufactories, and vineyards producing a good white wine. The parish +church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is +Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the +Saône. _Inns:_ Terrasse; France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in +this town the _Journal de Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de +Trévoux_ in 1704. + + +{306}{231} ++ST. GERMAIN AU-MONT-D'OR+, junction with line from Paris to Lyons, by +Roanne and Tarare. + + +[Headnote: LYONS.] + +{318}{219} ++LYONS+, pop. 343,000. The Perrache railway station is 218 m. from +Paris, 219 m. from Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from +Bourg, 104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne, +100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin. + +_Hotels (first-class)._--H. de l'Europe, admirably situated, with one +side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the Place +Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de la +République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon. H. Bellecour in the +Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the R. de l'Hôtel de Ville, also +well situated. In the Place Perrache, below the station, are the hotels +Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du Parc. + +_Less expensive Hotels._--The H. du Globe; and the Havre et du +Luxemburg--both near the Place Bellecour. Near the Place des Terreaux in +the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des +Négociants, a large house frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the +Négociants, at No. 47 Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des +Étrangers, Place de la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, +8 frs., in the Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, +opposite the theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General +Hospital, the H. Bourne. A great many diligences start from this +neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, +close to the Place des Terreaux, one of the cheapest. Among the best +cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café +Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la République; Café du Rhône, +Place Bellecour. They have English newspapers. In Lyons the term +Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, cordials, and brandies are +sold. + +_Post Office._--Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at the +south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade of +the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand. + +_Telegraph._--Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. Branch +offices--Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand. + +[Headnote: RAILWAY STATIONS. CAB FARES.] + +_Railway Stations._--The great and central station is the +Gare de +Perrache+, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and the +Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on the +railway to Bourg. The +Bourg or Satonay+ railway station is at the top +of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner of the Place +des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the hill by a +rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per 100, and +the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de la Croix +Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway carriages. The +rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a convenient way +of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The Dombes or +St. +Paul's+ railway station is for Montbrison, 40 m. S.W. The Vaise and +Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the Perrache station. The +Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the Parc de la Tête d'Or, +is the terminus of the best of the trams. + + CAB FARES + +-------------------------+-----------------------+----------------+ + | | DE 7 H. DU MATIN | DE MINUIT | + | | a Minuit. | a 7 H. du Mat. | + | KIND OF CAB. +-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + | | La |La 1re.| Les H.| La | | + | |course.|heure. | suiv. |course.|l'heure.| + +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + |A 2 places (coupés) | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 25 | 1 65 | 2 50 | + |A 4 places (berlines) | 1 50 | 2 | 1 50 | 2 | 3 | + |Voitures découvertes | | | | | | + | à 2 places| 1 75 | 2 | 1 75 | 2 15 | 3 | + | à 4 places| 2 | 2 50 | 2 | 2 50 | 3 50 | + +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + +The "coupés" are cabs with a seat for two. The "berlines" are cabs with +2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations the +omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. + + [Map: Lyons] + +[Headnote: TRAMWAYS. THEATRES. STEAMERS.] + +_Tramways._--The fares are moderate, and most of the cars comfortable. +The best to take to see the principal parts of the town is the large +roomy car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteaux +railway station, passing through the P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue +Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and P. de la République between the Hôtel de +Ville and the Grand Theatre, across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour +Morand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At the +Brotteaux terminus the road by the side of the fort "des Charpennes" +leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d'Or (see page 40), which +having visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 +minutes, or by the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. +The outside of the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. +The two most important places to visit on the return journey are the +Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38). +Tram between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare +outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out +at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, pop. +4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons. + +_Theatres._--The +Grand Théâtre+, between the Hôtel de Ville and the +Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, 6 frs. The +Théâtre des Célestins+, +between the Rue St. Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, +4 frs. +Théâtre Bellecour+, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new +theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for +3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls +cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the Théâtre des +Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. Antoine; and +the Théâtre de l'Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire. + +_Steamers on the Saône_ (Les Guèpes).--Sail between the Quai St. Antoine +(to the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In +summer 5 departures daily. + +Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place Perrache, +by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quai +de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the Pont du Port +another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling likewise at +numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, and between +them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe. + +The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. Claire +on the +Rhône and Aix-les-Bains+ on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. +Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, calling at +the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing and shipping +of cargo. + +[Headnote: SIGHTS.] + +_Sights._--Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Drive in tram car, +outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteaux +railway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tête d'Or, page 40. The +galleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silk +manufacture, page 38. + +Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest +rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach +each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part +of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets, +the Rue de la République, the R. de l'Hôtel de Ville, and the +R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful +squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place +Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In +the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, which was +taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the +municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour +(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with +trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot, +which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in +1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two +squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794, +during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts, +on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings +pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see page 37). + +The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of +substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24 +miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux +Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind +the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short +sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31. + + [Map: Lyons] + +[Headnote: NOTRE-DAME-DE-FOURVIÈRE. ROPE RAILWAY.] + +The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of ++Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière+, standing on the site of the forum erected by +Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvière is +supposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible, +even should there be no time for anything else, on account of the +excellent bird's-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces. +At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt+ across the Saône, at the +upper side of the "Place," is the rope railway, which ascends through +tunnels the hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about +¾ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right +hand, by the broad road, l'Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road +is a large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l'Antiquaille, especially +devoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has +accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman +palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this +hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, +lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the +pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets, +medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels. + +[Headnote: OBSERVATOIRE GAY. ST. PAUL.] + +On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, is +the chapel of the "miraculous" image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from +which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high. +This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb +view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are +immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont +Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church +below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less. +The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church, +which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884. +It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object +in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an +octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the +four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three +large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top +of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff +sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the +neighbourhood are convents. A little eastward is the "Observatoire Gay," +from which a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards +long, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station of +the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this station is the +church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful N. portal, the +handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, a few of the +windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church of +the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches of +Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which they +are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent. + +[Headnote: ST. IRÉNÉE.] + +The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue +Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short +distance of the church of +St. Irénée+, on the summit of a hill in the +suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a +Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by +the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance +into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second, +which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the +first flight an inscription states: "Cette crypte fut construite par St. +Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l'emplacement du lieu ou St. +Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l'apôtre +St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y +furent ensevelis." On the second arch another inscription states that in +1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of +animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, +restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the +saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first +flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the +original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were +thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus, +A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. +The church of St. Irénée has nothing particular. To the west, in the +parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought +water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable of +supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply of +Lyons is obtained from the Rhône. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL OF ST. JEAN.] + +Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the Tilsit +bridge, is the +Cathedral+ of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th cent., +repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and +reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates +from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the +13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely +decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from +W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th +cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown +flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right +hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother +Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits, +and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of +the arches and the vault of the roof are richly decorated. In the N. +transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in +1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an Asiatic +Greek, who preached in this city A.D. 177, and sealed his doctrines with +his blood. Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., +formerly the bishop's place, now the music school for the choristers. + +A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt) +occupied in the 13th cent. by the +Knight Templars+. Above the cathedral +is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of the large +market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24 +Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the court +rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up--the Pont de +Nemours--leads directly to the church of +Saint Nizier+, with the façade +towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville. +The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by Philibert Delorme, +a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. The rest of the +building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a broad triforium +with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the church. The vaulting +shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In the chapel of the south +transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the foot of the pier in this +transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th cent. At the south side +of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, a modern edifice, with a beautiful +portal of the 11th cent., all that remains of the original church. + +[Headnote: PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS.] + +On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the +Palais des +Beaux-Arts+, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames Bénédictines +de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the museums. Open +to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from 11 to 4, and +to strangers daily. + +[Headnote: MUSÉE LAPIDAIRE.] + +Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are the +ancient marbles or +Musée Lapidaire+, one of the best in Europe. The +sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, in +many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these records +of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the Augustan age +upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of that day were +already "feeling after" Christianity. In the left corner of the court on +entering is the stair which leads up to the Archæological Museum and the +Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. Up on the second floor is the +collection of paintings by the "peintres lyonnais." + +[Headnote: MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE.] + +The Musée Archéologique is well arranged and carefully labelled. The +only object we would indicate, as it is apt to be overlooked, is the +bronze table, A.D. 48, in the second room left hand, with inscribed +portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, imploring +the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a Roman +colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This table +was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. Germanicus, +and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, were also +born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time prefect of +Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs in +hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels, +armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets, +rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on +the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic +collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at +Lyons from 43 B.C. to 1857. Adjoining and on the same floor is the +Picture Gallery, contained in six small rooms, of which the first three +contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, the next two the Italian and +Spanish schools, and the sixth the French school. They are all carefully +labelled. Among the pictures which represent the Flemish school are +works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, +Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish schools are +represented by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, +Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor of the fourth room is a remarkably +perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by 3, representing chariot races in +the Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay. + +[Headnote: GALERIE CHENAVARD.] + +In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie +Chenavard on the first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him +illustrative of the scenes which accompanied the introduction of +Christianity into France. They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, +but, the age of reason supervening, they were not sent. On the floors +are three beautiful mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above +are the best pictures--J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel, +P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619; +P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, 1748-1825; +Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens, +Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J. +Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension of Christ, +considered the gem of the collection. This picture, originally in the +church of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII. "in +attestato del suo affetto é della grata sua rimembranza per la citta di +Lione." The lower part of the picture is by far the best, the figures in +the air are too massive, and the posture of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, +1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, +A. del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; +Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran. + +The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the ++Mineralogical Collection+, in which are represented the characteristic +rocks and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores +from the mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000 +engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the +arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every +evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville. + +[Headnote: PLACE TERREAUX. HÔTEL DE VILLE.] + +On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, built +in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by domed +square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft. +long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. From the +centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over the +entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within the +vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the +brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood +originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour. + +In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, in +the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting in +the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it +became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the +executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish +this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen. + +[Headnote: CONDITION DES SOIES.] + +Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, is +the establishment of the +Condition des Soies+, where the bales of silk +brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron +grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from +64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation. +The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first +story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St. +Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite +end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church. + +[Headnote: BOURSE. LIBRARY.] + +In the Rue de la République is the +Bourse+, a profusely ornamented +edifice inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built +in the 14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée +with the public library, containing the great terrestrial globe made at +Lyons in 1701, indicating the great African lakes, the rediscovery of +which has been one of the events of the present century. There are +160,000 volumes and 2500 manuscripts,--about 600 of the printed works +being incunabula, and 25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian +period. + +[Headnote: SILK MUSEUM.] + +In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the +Art and +Manufacture+ of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays +between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases, +specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to +centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far +the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first +and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly +artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely +designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the +hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting +posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also +the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms +from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains +part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom +made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to +produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely +changing the "cartoons" to make the most different textures on the same +loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was +B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are improved +copies. + +The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of +silk--displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, as +well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every +condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and +hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced. +Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters. + +Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for +these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to +hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals, +have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure +is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, which makes a silk +dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, with an occasional +alteration, it was worn for years. + +In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large covered +markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive in +tanks, and good Mont d'Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway +travelling provision. (See page 42.) + +[Headnote: CITY HOSPITAL AND WORKHOUSE.] + +Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and the +other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l'Hôpital, is the +Hôtel +Dieu+, or general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by +Childebert and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally +the work of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the +beds, about 1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per +day. The rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards +are arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under +the small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from +their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men, +containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are +tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the +Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at +Oullins for incurables. + +In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs. +Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at +Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a +built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it +is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared. + +Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly +decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages, +of Sainte Valentine. + +Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, on +the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes who +have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be +mothers. The church was built in 1617. + +[Headnote: ST. MARTIN D'AINAY.] + +North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across the +Saône, is the church of +St. Martin d'Ainay+, which, with the monastery, +was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, on the site +of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour of Cæsar +Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the Saracens, in the +8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by Pope +Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired and altered. The +style belongs to what is called modern Greek, introduced into France +under Charlemagne. The cupola of the chancel rests on circular +pendentive arches springing from four granite columns which stood +formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were originally 2, but were cut +into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal chapels are by H. Flandrin, +a native of +Lyons+. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint +Blandina, in which a short stair leads down to the crypt and the +dungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and +Blandina, a converted slave, were kept before being tortured and put to +death in A.D. 177, during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, the +implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. square, was, +as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on account of the +overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to their present +level. + +[Headnote: PARC DE LA TÊTE-D'OR.] + +The Parc de la Tête-d'Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E. +extremity of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the +left bank of the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an +abundant supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden +with hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a +dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale. +Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the +Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of +objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history, +religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The +institution publishes essays and translations. + +By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large +barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux. + +Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of +silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on +the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom +has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings, +are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can +work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more +_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La Croix +Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the Saône. +The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of looms, +who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a finished +state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is estimated +at £15,000,000. + +[Headnote: THE DYEING OF SILK--ORIGIN OF LYONS.] + +The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. Many +experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and in +particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its +colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he +received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour. +Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a +brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand. +Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a +permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk +were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The +worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed +in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of +persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is +now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of +gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries, +foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and +hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large trade +is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring departments, +and known as _marrons de Lyon_. + +The earliest Gallic occupants of the territory at the confluence of the +Rhône and the Saône were the Segusians. In 590 B.C. some Greek refugees +from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained permission of the natives +to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, called their new town by +the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 B.C. Munatius Plancus brought a +Roman colony to Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired +importance, and was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great +roads. Augustus, besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, +gave it a senate and made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies +from the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of +Forum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the +_jus senatus_. The town, burnt by Nero in 59 A.D., was rebuilt by him in +a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus. + +[Headnote: MONT-D'OR. CHEESE.] + +Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions from +Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus starting +from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d'Or, +3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending. Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus +office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on a wide terrace +commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is poor and dirty, +and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont Ceindre walk from the +omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend by the telegraph +posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent and descent can be done +easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to Lyons by the returning +coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some houses, an old hermitage, and +a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. The view is grand, embracing +the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the towns of Bugey and +Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, and the Alps. Mont +Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 ft.; and Mont Houx, +2008 ft., form together +Mont-d'Or+, a group of mountains covered with +vineyards and meadows. The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the +best and most celebrated in France. They are soft, round, and flat, +about 5 inches in diameter and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. +They are made from a mixture of cow and goat's milk, and are said to +derive their peculiar flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats +feed during a considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore +(likewise famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small +boxes. The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by +Roche-Cardon, a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy +excursion is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) +going up the Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat +going to St. Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank, +1½ m. above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of +Cuire. In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the +bridge passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, +and the tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail +is the best part of the excursion, not the island. + +For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, +see p. 81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; Paris to +Lyons by Tarare, p. 348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne, +Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and map p. 27. + + +[Headnote: VIENNE.] + +{338}{199} ++VIENNE+, pop. 27,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the +capital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of +important edifices, which indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in +the days of Cicero were no strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding +the Augustan age. The most interesting of these is the +Maison Carrée+, +an oblong temple of the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his +wife Livia, 55 ft. high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way +north from the cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace +fronting the chain bridge is +St. Maurice+, a beautiful Gothic cathedral +commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the roof of the nave 88 +ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the altar the +skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died in 1723. +At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other end of the +chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up the +Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a stair +leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, where Pontius +Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life (it +is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About ¼ m. down the Rhône +from the railway station, by the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide de +l'Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It is 52 feet high, and +rises from four arches resting on a square basement. Columns with +cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, which cannot date earlier +than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial town, with important +woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On the +other side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le +Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village +among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château +de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the +year was to commence with the first of January. + + +[Headnote: ST. RAMBERT-D'ALBON.] + +{356½}{180½} ++ST. RAMBERT-D'ALBON+, junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by +Rives 35 m., and Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m. +W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to Annonay (see page +81, and map pages 26 and 46). + +5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ +Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the town is the +restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaure +are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of the +Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page 46). + + +[Headnote: TAIN.] + +{368}{169} ++TAIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the +Rhône, immediately opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of the +hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety has +a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxurious +wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small. + Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence + and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13,000. _Inns:_ Europe; Midi. + Situated at the confluence of the Isère with the Savasse, crossed by a + bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000. + + +[Headnote: VALENCE.] + +{384}{153} ++VALENCE+, pop. 24,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d'Or; France. The first +the most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant +schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. +west. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an +eminence rising from the Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the +site of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the Place +Championnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by François. It +commands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In the +distance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In +this Place is the statue "au General Championnet, sorti des rangs du +peuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale." Died at Antibes 1800. + +To the left of the statue is the cathedral +St. Apollinaire+, built in +1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were +rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable +appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves. +A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the +round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by +restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached +Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of +the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone. +From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being +occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust +by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His remains +were removed to Rome. + +Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral chapel +(22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. On +each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flat +dome. Close to the "Place des Clercs" is the Maison des Têtes, built in +1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work. +The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into the +court are in a much better state of preservation. + The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their + transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th + cent., and a picture gallery. + +[Headnote: VERNOUX.] + + Rail to Grenoble, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus + daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach by St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. + Vernoux, 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple + Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, situated in the midst + of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. A large proportion of + the inhabitants are Protestants. + +[Headnote: COACHES FROM VALENCE.] + + Valence is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. + Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les + Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83). + The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La + Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape; + whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St. + Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. du Pont, they + meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur + one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and + Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. from + St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to + Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see also pages 93 + and 94). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by + Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of + the day intercepts the rays of the sun. + + +ARDÈCHE. + +(See Map, page 46). + + Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September. + In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best + houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of + fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, + bread often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is + potatoes sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a + pleasant soup of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are + required for the accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which + each hamlet has at least 2, while the larger villages and towns have + from 4 to 8, besides market-days. One of the prettiest sights in + Ardèche is to see the people flocking from every direction along the + winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is being + held--many on foot driving small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or + cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, and + often an old hen; others with carts loaded with potatoes; others + travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and others on horseback, + the women as well as the men being astride. + + Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight + forbidding, but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of + things improves rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural + products are potatoes and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, + walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, cultivated on terraces + supported by low stone walls of rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in + the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are of + a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured and light brown, with large bones + and white horns generally tipped with black. + + At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and + grown-up women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above + 8s., and many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman + shears it off in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only a + little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank, + and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take + the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females + during their long winters is lace-making. + + Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont + Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The + most central station of the diligences is Le Cheilard (see page + 83). + + After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts + of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and + 23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives. + + +[Headnote: LIVRON.] + +{395}{142} ++LIVRON+, pop. 4500, on the Drôme, at some distance from the station. +Restaurants at station. Inns in the town. On the other side of the +Rhône, connected by railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ m. W. (see p. 82). + A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from + Livron, 68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and + Marseilles. As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the + picturesque and well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is + a large Protestant population, nearly every village having its Temple + Protestant (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56). + +[Headnote: CREST.] + + 11 miles E. from Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ + Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, + by the side of the river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The + omnibuses of the two hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly + on the Drôme and partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the + foot, in the market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. + Straight up from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of + 116 steps, is the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde, + attached to the "Asile" for young children. A little higher up are the + hospital and church. Above the "Asile" is the entrance to the + enclosure, on which stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly + the remains of a castle which was added to it in the 13th cent. The + highest side is 170 ft. above the ground, and the other three 148 ft., + ascended by 260 steps. Although so high, the view is limited by the + high side, into which visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives + below in the town, near the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the + first narrow street, left from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, + which continue to a stone lettered "limite de l'Octroi," whence ascend + by the path, right, to the Calvary, where there is a splendid view of + the valley of the Drôme. + + [Map: Ardeche: Its Vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes] + +[Headnote: SAOU.] + + Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ m. S.W. (see Index); also + to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the copious source of + the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. 3 miles from + Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach also to Bourdeaux, + 16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest (see map, p. 56). Saou, + pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. + _Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed up with and built into the surrounding + squalid houses are the remains of the abbey church and buildings of + Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are the wall and + square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are within the + court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th and 13th + cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of the + narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains, + from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata + piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic + forms. It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the + commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream, + is the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the + other side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. + Mt. Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called + the Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square + house, with two round turrets, called the Château d'Eurre. The best + parts of the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its + termination, where the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of + 5324 ft. above the sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At + the foot of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley + becomes so narrow that there is scarcely sufficient room for the + stream to pass through. 2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, + a little beyond, the terminus of the valley. + +[Headnote: BOURDEAUX. DIEULEFIT.] + + Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ + Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N. + from Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, + composed of squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping + up the hill, crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the + 8th cent. Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief + industries. Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the + courrier requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain + ridge, the Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places. + + Dieulefit, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the + Jabron at the foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart, + between which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are + silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a + coarse kitchen ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to + Montelimart are Poët-Lavat, 3-1/8 m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under + Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a + considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56). + + +[Headnote: DIE.] + +CREST TO ASPRES (Maps, pp. 46 and 56). + + _Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die._--The road as far as the Pass + de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town passed is + Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Lambert; Latour. In + a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is Pontaix, similarly situated. + 23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die, pop. 4000, the + principal town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the + Mérosse. _Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes--the coach stops between them; + Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank + during its first year; in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach + to Châtillon, 12 m. S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain + surrounded by mountains, of which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, + 6648 ft. above the sea, flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top + is an undulating plateau, covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5 + hrs. required for the ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the + rustic but not uncomfortable establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; + pension per day, with baths, 9 frs. The treatment is called "Sudations + résineuses." The bath resembles a large oven, in which, after having + been heated with resinous fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish + bath. Open from 15th June to 15th September. The landlord is likewise + proprietor of a large part of Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his + supplies of fir-wood. On the top of a hill on the other side of the + Drôme is a similar establishment, called the Martouret, pension 12 + frs. The way to it strikes off the main road opposite the eminence, on + which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding a very good view of the + valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at one of the old + gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which makes the tour of the + ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry trees. At the other end + of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better gateway or Roman + triumphal arch, fronting the "Place" St. Marcel. The parish church has + been rebuilt, excepting the narthex. + +[Headnote: LUC. ASPRES.] + + From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which + changes horses at +LUC+ en Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; Église + Protestante, 10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town, + among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high + mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost + closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from + the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of + Beaurières (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is now + commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres, + 15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from + Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall + 195 ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre + d'Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to + the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing + mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best + when 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is situated on the railway, + 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach + sets down passengers either at the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand. + The church has been rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the + tympanum a curious representation of the Trinity. + + +[Headnote: MONTÉLIMART.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{412}{125} ++MONTÉLIMART+, pop. 12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion +and Jabron with the Rhône. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; in +the town the Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil, +on the W. side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p. 49; Dieulefit, p. 47; +Bourdeaux, p. 47; and Nyons, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and +Princes. Up the Grande Rue is the principal church. On the opposite side +of it is the Place d'Armes, with the Post Office, the Palais de Justice, +and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in the +Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 ft. wide, bearing in +Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. At the end of the street, +the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the "Place," is the Temple Protestant. +Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, "Nougat," of which the best +is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an eminence on the side of the +town farthest from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour de +Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni, +became a Roman settlement under the name of Montilium, which was changed +afterwards into Monteil-d'Adhemar by a powerful family, who came into +possession of it in the days of Charlemagne. To the same family belonged +also Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see page 92, and map +page 56). + +Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, 2½ m. S.E. + Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by + Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer. + (See map, page 56.) + + According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way + between Montelimart and Grignan, "there existed down to 1802 the first + white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by + Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one of the soldiers who + accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, in 1494." The + mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of France than + the olive (see map, page 56). + +[Headnote: GRIGNAN. MARQUISE DE SÉVIGNÉ.] + + +Grignan+, pop. 1900; _Inn:_ Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill + on the top of which, 100 ft. above the "Place," are the gardens and + ugly half-ruined and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. + The former Salle du Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, + containing upwards of 300 paintings, among which the most interesting + are--the portraits of Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About + half-way up the hill is the church, commenced in the 12th cent. In + front of the altar a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by 1½ wide, bears + the following inscription:-- "Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal, + Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696." Above the well, in the + "Place," is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About ½ m. + from the town is what was one of her favourite walks to an overhanging + ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbière. To visit it, + descend from the inn, then take the first byeroad right, by a row of + poplars to a short stair. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. + S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan. +Valréas+ (pronounce the "s"), 8¼ m. + from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ H. du Nord, is partly + surrounded with its old walls, garnished with square towers and + pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. from Nyons by + Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, _Inn:_ H. du Commerce, pop. 1200, is + also partly surrounded with its old walls. + + +{420}{117} ++DONZERE.+ H. du Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four +and a half miles south is +Pierrelatte+ station, and the terminus of the +unfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan. + Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time + 45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an + interesting cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics + have been found in the neighbourhood. + + +[Headnote: LA CROISIERE.] + +{432}{105} ++LA CROISIERE.+ Two small inns at station. + Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l'Europe, 3½ m. + W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. Fare, 40 c. + The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in 1265 and + finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at the W. + end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for the + convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit, + see page 98). + + Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the valleys + of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. _Inn:_ + Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures of fire-bricks and + clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to + Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; _Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed + here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. Near the + village of Vinsobres a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons + and Vaison. At Nyons the coach stops in the "Place" in front of the H. + du Louvre; whence the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart + (see map, page 56). + +[Headnote: NYONS.] + + +NYONS+, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place; + Voyageurs, in a corner. Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, + surrounded by high mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and + therefore eminently fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The + orange and palm do not grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, + fig, peach, and pear trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine + truffles. Silk mills and the preserving of fruit and truffles supply + the principal industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on + an eminence partly surrounded with its old walls garnished with square + towers, 14th cent. The vieux château, or centre tower, has been + converted by the curate into a chapel surmounted with an image of the + "immaculately conceived." The part of the town below is called Les + Halles, whose dirty streets are bordered with thick heavy arches. The + rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The + bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch and considerably higher in the + centre than at the ends. + +[Headnote: THE PONTIAS BREEZE.] + + Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is + the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that + the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is + very cold, and blows from 5 P.M. to 9 A.M. In summer it is pleasant, + and blows from 9 P.M. to 7 A.M. The peculiarity is, that the degree of + force is constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, + commence from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the + Rue Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last + tower a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a + small chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a + pavilion. Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the + part of the ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the + back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by + this latter way retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path + for 116 yards; while those who have come by the other go 116 yards + beyond the chapel. Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be + observed the thin ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is + the entrance to the Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of + insignificant dimension. Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are + several crevices. The view of the valley of the Aigues from this hill + is very beautiful. The ascent takes 35 minutes. + + +NYONS TO SERRES. + + +Nyons to Serres+ (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east by the valleys of + the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by high mountains. Time, + 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns passed are at a + considerable height above the road, and sometimes on account of the + steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first village + passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons, and 3½ m. + from the gorge "Des 30 Pas," one of the excursions from Nyons. + A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of the river, + here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill on the + S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the + mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road + crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St. + May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on + the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a + lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river + to the village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its + junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of + the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. from + Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or 15½ m. from + Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret, + whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the Blème, + passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_ + Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from Marseilles and 77½ + S. from Grenoble (see p. 340). + + +[Headnote: ORANGE.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{444}{93} ++ORANGE+, pop. 10,300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the +Arausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to +the hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour +of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A.D. 21. It stands +E. and W., is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep, +and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. +and each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented +with six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved +Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the +shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, +etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat. + +At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre at +the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ of +Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in style the churches of +the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the great +type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the buttresses, +and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. A plain and ugly +square tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place de +l'Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to "Raimbaud II., Comte d'Orange, +vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem en MXCIX." In the promenade of the +town, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin, +a writer on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in +1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and +imposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in +a semicircular form, has a façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The +wall is 13 ft. thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular +wall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500 +spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of a +quantity of rubbish. + +[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN.] + +In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably under +Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just been noticed. On +the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third line of princes, +the inheritance fell to his sister's son Count René (Renatus) of +Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor his +cousin William I., stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The title +"Prince of Orange" was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice, +Frederick-Henry, William I., William II., and William III. After the +Revolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party were +designated Orangemen, from the title of their leader, William III., +Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672, +but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there +were two claimants--John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by +William's will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed to be +nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will of +Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the principality a +forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to the Prince of +Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should have +the _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty of +Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the title and coat of arms to the +King of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz von +Oranien). John William Friso, however, also took the title, and his +successors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all been +designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast numbers of silkworms are +reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison +17½ m. N.E. (Map p. 56.) + +[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN.] + + +Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene, + 17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m. W. from Le + Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left + side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by + a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the left side a + more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid + streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the + ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It + is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square + tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with + round and early pointed arches and square tower at S.E. end. The view + from the terrace is beautiful. + + The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and + very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the + town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute + angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of + the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a + little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or "les arènes" as + they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as + the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, + there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, + excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and + an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east + end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to + the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an + equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the + apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars + has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on + each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin + died in 578. + + Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves + of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of + medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are + pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes. + The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed + arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered + pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, + also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th + cent.; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of + blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, + at the N.E. side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a + very beautiful cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the + cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded + by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At + the corners is either a massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 + colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself + are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a + skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of + the "Immaculée" on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman + column. (Map p. 56.) + + +[Headnote: SORGUES.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{455}{82} ++SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction +with line to Carpentras, 10½ m. eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10,500, on +an eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_ +Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large "Place" opposite, the +Hôtel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a +portrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the +centre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie +d'Inguimbert. From this "Place," up the narrow street, the first public +building is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405. + The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side + of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of + Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a + pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside. + Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a + "Salutation" by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the + pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her + milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the + cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them + are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the + right hand of J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a "Coronation" of + Mary painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another + "Coronation" by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and + Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and + a crucifix in the "salle des assises." Within the court, right hand, + is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. + high (but originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. + span. On the N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold + relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side + stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the + cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the + south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of + preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From + the top hangs the dress of a warrior. + +[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM.] + + The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte + d'Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only + three sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded + the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From + the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal + aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, + between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from + N.W. to S.E., with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to + Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The + canal, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends + from the Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost + £90,000. In the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory + of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the + library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of + manuscripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare + incunables, and above 4000 vols., for which there is not sufficient + accommodation. In the "Musée" are a few good pictures, and Roman + statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small + Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an + Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B.C., 19¼ in. long by + 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow + borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with + uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on + which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second + compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the + jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the + four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is + an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are + injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot + Mailly in 1646. + +[Headnote: TRUFFLES.] + + Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, + or white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has + the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of + Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below + the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the + common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from + November to the end of March, after which those which remain become + soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind + is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In + size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the + largest may weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are + sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow + being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its + duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its + powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When + just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between + its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead + two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue + the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour. + +[Headnote: ORTOLANS.] + + The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, + migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets + laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into + dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month's time they + become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and + sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The + singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling + out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping + them in a dark apartment till August. + + Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and "berlingots," + a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike + barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is + Eysseric. + + Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from + the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices + moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the + vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences. + + Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras 6½ m., + and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and + Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E., + passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by + Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach + to Sault 28½ m. E. + + Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to + L'Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse. + Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by Venasque + 7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.) + +[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX.] + + Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8¾ m. N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300. + _Inn:_ Hôtel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274 + ft., by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about + 2 m. from the village and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope. + Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. + Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of + the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending + to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little + distance along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off + to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The + mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise + from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P.M., and await the + appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on + the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range, + an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every + form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and + fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, "terre de + Bedouin," is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village + 2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of + sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up + at different parts of the department. + + [Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance] + +[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE.] + + Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of + +St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old château. + Rooms from 1½ fr. to 3 frs. Servants' rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and + dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, + breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr. + First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study + gratis; but in the guests' room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the + style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is + impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_térébenthiné_). It has a + beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is + 2¾ m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p. 56). + + Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N.E., + by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N.W. + extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le Barroux on + a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of + Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is + +Malaucene+, 1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Cours, + in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the + calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is the + spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous + cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. + The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in + motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may + visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from + Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more + picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of + the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, + 4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft. + + The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the + Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with, + in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake. + Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the + bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. + No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good + the length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St. + Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m. E., Lacombe + 13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the road descends to the + railway by the valley of the Céans. + +[Headnote: LE BUIS.] + + +LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a + hollow on the Ouvèze surrounded by mountains covered with olive, + mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata + cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form, + either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness + and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to + the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the + winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next + bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right: + for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the + left, just before reaching the bridge. + + + [Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON. + + +1.+ Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the + Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of + Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of + the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads + down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the + promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop's palace, now a + seminary. Below the Pope's Palace is +B+, the Place de l'Hotel de + Ville, with the H. de Ville and theatre. The street +C C+, + extending southward to the principal station, is called the R. de + la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, + +3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little + farther S.W. is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Musée Calvet, + and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien, + a museum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph's + College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers, + where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of + the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+, + beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road + to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l'Hotel de Ville + is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the + station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the + Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the + Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel + Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Coeur. 17. Prison. + 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture. + 22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais. + B, Place de l'Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue + Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie. + J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. M, Porte du + Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte + L'Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de + l'Oulle.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{461}{76} ++AVIGNON+, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls, +garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the +Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. N.E. from ++Nîmes+ by the railway passing the Pont d'Avignon and Remoulins. +_Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the +centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. Temple +Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the Préfecture. Cabstands at station +and in the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, 2 frs. per hour. From the station, +a beautiful avenue, the Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de +l'Hôtel de Ville, with statue "au brave Crillon," the friend of Henri +IV., "Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de +l'infanterie française," died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the +road leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des +Domes, and the promenade, *"au Rochers des Doms;" which, with the +ramparts, compose the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the +palace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite +gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The +churches are closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public +on Sundays between 12 and 4. + +[Headnote: AVIGNON PALACE.] + +The present +Palace+, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, and finished +by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, consisting of plain +walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by long ungainly +buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, are the arms +of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, the balcony from +which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is the Cour +d'Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, pierced by from +3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of the same size. +From the court ascend the Escalier d'Honneur, a groined staircase, of +which the steps were formerly of marble, to the Salle Consistoriale +d'Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before this hall was divided +into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170 long. From it we enter +the Salle d'Armes, with mural paintings by Simone Memmi of Sienna. +Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the left the small +window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby tunnelled in the +wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie de Conclave, the +Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then enter the Tour St. +Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, or the chapel of the ++Inquisition+, with mural paintings. In the story immediately below is +the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through a +large hall, we enter an octagonal room, gradually narrowing towards the +centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, called the Tour Strapade. Some +say this was the torture room; but it is evidently more suited for a +kitchen, which in all probability it was. Adjoining is the Glacière, +into whose underground cellars, now built up, the democrats of 1791 +flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had murdered. From this we +enter again the Place d'Honneur by the Tour Trouillas, in which Rienzi +was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain fixed to the roof of his +cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 to 1234, and till 1793, +the half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical edifices, which +tolled daily 300 bells, and had among them a daily succession of +religious processions. + +[Headnote: ROCHER DES DOMS. CATHEDRAL.] + +From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, the ++Rocher des Doms+; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a +public garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who +introduced, in 1766, the culture of the "garance," the _Rubia +tinctoria_, now superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a +stair leads down to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet (see page 63). In +the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and on the other side +are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above it +the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the Cathedral ++Notre-Dame-des-Doms+, 194 feet above the Rhône, approached by a stair +called the Pater, because originally it had as many steps as there are +words in the Lord's Prayer. This church has undergone many changes, and +belongs to various periods. The portal and lower part of the tower are +of the 10th cent., and are due to Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries +later. The apse was added in 1671. The most remarkable part of the +structure is the cupola, terminating in an octagonal lantern, and +supported on pendentive arches. It bears traces of frescoes painted in +1672. In the sanctuary is the marble throne used by the Popes, in the +sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII., and in one of the side +chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (right hand) is a +Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The sacristan is generally in the +small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ fr. for showing the church and +the tomb. + +Now return to the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end a +tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d'Avignon station on the other side +of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the eastern end of +the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts every hour from +the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops at the east end +of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous. + +[Headnote: ST. AGRICOL. MUSÉE CALVET.] + +In the "Place" the principal edifice is the +Hôtel de Ville+, built in +1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th cent, of which all that +remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard and his wife, from the +two figures which strike the hours. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the +theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. Agricol+, 1340, the +patron saint of Avignon. To the right on entering is the tomb of the +painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April 1725, aged 86, and third chapel on +same side is a virgin and child in wood by Coysevox. To the left of the +entrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the foot of +the short street St. Agricol, in the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built +in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue Calade is the +Musée Calvet+, containing a +valuable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from +12 to 4, and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. +Against the wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this +museum, Claud François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On +the right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to +Laura de Sade, dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the +Cordeliers (see p. 62). On the other side is the tomb of the military +strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the outer court, and in the +rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are Roman altars, monuments, +milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin inscriptions, found in the +neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p. 53). Among the +sculptures in relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses +with their hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent., +from Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the +Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches +and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope Urbain V., +of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal Palice. Within +railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, and a bather by +Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is a valuable +collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and medals, +including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes during +their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition while +here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings, +including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures +have the artists' names affixed. Those in the great hall are by Albano, +Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, +Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, +F. Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and +N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, +Teuiers jun., Veronese, Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room +are the paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few +by Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. +In the centre of an inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is +the famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting +the arms, a chef-d'oeuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said +that Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art. +Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the R. Petrarque or +de la République, we have on the right the Museum of Natural History in +the church St. Martial, 15th cent. [Headnote: REQUIEN.] The greater part +of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851, and of them the +most interesting are those connected with the neighbourhood, such as the +flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the fossils from Aix. In the +eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at No. 62 R. des Lices, is the +Collége +Saint Joseph+, containing within its grounds all that remains +(the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of the church of the +Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired, and +is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely admitted. It is to the left +of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no vestiges, having been +destroyed along with the church by an infuriated mob in 1791. On the E. +side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow R. Prévot, is the church of +St. +Dedier+, 1355, containing, in first chapel right from entrance, a relief +in marble representing Christ bearing his cross, executed by Francesco +in 1481 at the request of King René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. +above the floor, is a stone pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave +of St. Bénézet is under a plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front +of the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and +to the east of the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre +(9 in plan), 1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The +pictures about the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and +Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, +the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and +Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town ++hospital+ (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built in the +last century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. +Here, outside the town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the +left, is the Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of +the entrance. [Headnote: J. S. MILL.] In a corner at the end of a short +avenue of pine trees is the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill, +b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet +Mill, his beloved wife, who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l'Europe, +Nov. 3, 1858. A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the +whole surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be +taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in +1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint, +and architect, +Bénézet+, who before had constructed one over the +Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 ft. long +and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain. + On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics + of St. Bénézet were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier. + + +[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON.] + ++Avignon to Villeneuve.+ + +Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d'Avignon station, while +every hour an omnibus crosses for +Villeneuve-les-Avignon+, pop. 3100, +2½ m. from the "Place," or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near the parish +church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the chapel to the +left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty +elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs +is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture +belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two +subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different +artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads, +even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most +charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as +a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the +Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV., +where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband's death she +married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where +her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law, +the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she +steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her +drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on +the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times +with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to +be broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by +Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno. +Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in the +14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing extraordinary. +Near it are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an +eminence Fort André, now inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for +Avignon starts every hour at the hour, from the apsidal end of the +parish church of Villeneuve. + +Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the Mistral, +yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, "Avenio +ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa," the odours from the +drains in some of the streets being very offensive. + +Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was +forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General +Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery, +the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in +this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade, +opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote "Le Souper de Beaucaire." + + +[Headnote: AVIGNON TO NÎMES. L'ISLE.] + ++Avignon to Nîmes.+ + +Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting from +the Pont-d'Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those wishing +to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets for the +Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with luggage, +it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, without loss +of time on arriving, take other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving the +luggage behind. Time will generally be saved by returning from the Pont +to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the road, but 5 m. by the rail. See +Map, p. 56. For Nîmes see p. 101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p. 104. +Consult the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon" before starting. + + +[Headnote: L'ISLE. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE.] + ++Avignon to Vaucluse by L'Isle.+ + +From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the village +of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L'Isle, pop. 7000, a village on the +Sorgues, with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome +reredos over high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d'Argent +dates from the 11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle +hotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take +them to Vaucluse and back for 4 frs. each. From the village of Vaucluse, +pop. 600, take for the fountain the road on the right bank of stream, +but for the house and garden of Petrarch take the left side, crossing +the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff near the cloth mill, is a +small house on the site of Petrarch's, of which it is a copy. Before it, +is still a piece of what was Petrarch's garden. On the other side of the +Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a little hotel at Vaucluse, the +Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the +source of the river Sorgue, the placid +Fontaine de Vaucluse+, about 30 +yards in diameter-- "a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still, +that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and +water ends." During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to +contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into +the bed below. The poet's modest house stood at the foot of the rock +crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal +Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description +of the site:-- "On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; on +another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day heats, and +which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its friendly shade; +but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance a +surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes, +walnuts, almonds--these are my delights. My table is also graced with +the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my greatest pleasures +to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw them myself. All +about me is changed. I once used to dress myself with care; now you +would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house resembles that of +Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The house of my servant +adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and when I have no more need +of him he returns home." + +[Headnote: PETRARCH.] + +On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of Avignon +Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a +romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful +vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France, +Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned +to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse. + +Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to 18 +frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price. + +20½ m. from Avignon by rail is Cavaillon (p. 66), whence a branch line +extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the +Marseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22½ m. S. to +Miramas+ +(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p. 66.) + + +[Headnote: APT.] + +AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT. + + 40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is +Apt+, pop. 7000, on + the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered hollow surrounded by mountains and + calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The *Louvre; des Alpes. The principal + industries are agriculture, pottery, and the making of preserved + fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as that on which the + sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to soak from 2 to 8 months in + a strong solution of white sugar, in uncovered "terrines," like small + basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such as oranges, are pricked before + being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is near the station, + to the left on descending the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in + thick beds close to the establishment, and resembles that of + Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting fire, and is + therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen pottery. M. + Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea services, of which + the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the establishment of L. A. + Esbérard, who confines himself almost exclusively to kitchen + pottery. + + The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on + entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower. + Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of + the mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which + many are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque + (_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E., and Reillanne, + on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on the rail between + Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66.) + + +Cavaillon to Miramas+, 22½ m. S. (see map, p. 66), across a fertile + plain, with vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. + +Cavaillon+ (pop. 8000). _Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. + Cavaillon is a pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on + the Durance at the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an + ancient triumphal arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th + cents., with a cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the + neighbourhood. 4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is +Orgon+ (pop. 3000. _Inns:_ + Paris; Poste), on the Durance. 11 m. farther S. is +Salon+ (pop. 7100. + _Inns:_ Poste; Croix de Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, + dealing largely in first-class olive oil, has still remnants of its + old ramparts: a church, St. Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St. + Laurent, of the 14th, and a castle of the same date. In the town is a + fountain to the memory of Adam de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. + (For Miramas, see p. 75.) + + [Map: The Mouths of the Rhone] + + +[Headnote: TARASCON. MARTHA'S TOMB.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{474}{63} ++TARASCON+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs, +the Luxembourg; in the town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to +Nîmes, 17 m. W., and 31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a +large hospital for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc +Molière. Tarascon is an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite +Beaucaire, and connected with it by a chain bridge 1450 feet long. In +the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is an ancient crypt, +just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of Lazarus, +whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the peaceful-looking +marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of the place says she +had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of the inhabitants, to +kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a bull's, and having +succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, after her death +buried her in this place. A few steps from the church, by the side of +the river, rises the massive strong square castle, begun in 1400 and +finished by the Roi René, now used as a prison. On the opposite side of +the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are the more picturesque ruins of the +castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining garden forms one of the many +promenades of the people of Beaucaire. Beaucaire is a poor town with +poor houses. The formerly famous fair, commencing on July 1, has become +now of little importance. It is held in the broad avenue between the +castle and the Rhône. + +[Headnote: ST. REMY. LES BAUX.] + +9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is +St. Remy+, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Hôtel +du Cheval Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for +Les Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and Mont-Majour, +19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel Cheval Blanc, by the high +road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the commercial stations of the +Phoenician traders from Marseilles, before it fell into the possession +of the Romans, who have left here two remarkable monuments, of which +the more perfect consists of an open square tower standing on a massive +pedestal, and surmounted by a peristyle of ten columns surrounding two +statues representing the parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of +the Julii, by whom it was erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the +statues look to the north. The sculpture on the north side of the +pedestal represents a cavalry fight; the south, "sacrificing;" the west, +a combat between infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, +"Victory crowning a wounded soldier." Alongside stands a triumphal arch, +of which the most perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the +soffit. + +6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is +Les Baux+, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, +pop. 100. _Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in +485, occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature +into bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by +ancient art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art +and nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie +cheek-by-jowl with masses of the rough-hewn rock; fallen cavern vaults +are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped spandrel and clustered column +shaft; the doors and windows of old pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and +wild fig tapestry; while winding staircases start midway upon the cliff +and lead to vacancy. High overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang +chambers--lady's bower or poet's singing room--now inaccessible, the +haunt of hawks and swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb-- "cette ville +en monolithe," as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped +out of one mountain block--live a few poor people, foddering their +wretched goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their +mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux +road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles (see +map, page 66). + + +[Headnote: ARLES.] + +{483}{54} ++ARLES+, pop. 26,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in the +Place du Forum. Arles is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a +marshy place, as its original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, +"Ar lach," damp place, indicates. It is said to have been founded 900 +years before Marseilles, 700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the +birth of Christ. The ramparts and walls rising from the public gardens +and the Boulevard des Aliscamps are chiefly the work of the Emperor +Constantine, who came to Arles with his family and mother, Saint Helena. +He built by the side of the Rhône a superb palace, called afterwards +"de la Trouille," because opposite a ferry-boat, which was pulled or +dragged from one side of the river to the other. Of this palace little +more remains than the attached tower La Trouille, constructed of +alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th August 312 his wife +Faustina presented him with a son, Constantine II., who succeeded his +father in May 357. He commenced the Forum, but was shortly after killed +in battle defending himself against his brother Constance, who usurped +the throne and finished the Forum. All that remains of this formerly +splendid edifice are the two Corinthian columns, with part of the +pediment encrusted into the wall of the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the +site of the Place du Forum, called also the Place des Hommes, because +labourers and men-servants used to be hired in this "Place." + +In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on +the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The +spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these +baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an +ossuary. + + [Map: Arles] + +Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, now the +Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi, +urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, those of the +Pagans having the letters D.M., _Diis manibus_. Also some of the long +lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, "C. Canthius Porthinus fac.," +which helped to bring water from the fountain at the foot of the hill on +which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is a torse of Mithras +of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in 1598 on the site +of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the body, and between the +coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite corner is an altar in +Carrara marble to the good goddess "Bonae-Deae," found under the church +La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak leaves and acorns, and 7 +inches distant from each other two human ears. Near it is a good head of +Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About the centre of the room is +a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine skin under his arm. + +In the centre of the "Place" is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, hewn +by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in the +Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges remain. + +[Headnote: ST. TROPHIME.] + +Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the +17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221, +consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are +statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum +is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists. +In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the +cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the +16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent. + +Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, we +arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, and +finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin, +originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian +columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the +proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators, +with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most +valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to +the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to strangers. + +[Headnote: AMPHITHEATRE.] + +A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing +Amphitheatre+ or +Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius Nero, +B.C. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. long and 132 wide, surrounded by a +double wall 60 ft. high, each with two stages of arches, and in each +stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers of stone seats, +capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps leading up to +them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were besides above +150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the theatre, and 100 +dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by the Saracens in the +8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, when a multitude of +spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the galleries. A splendid +view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of the commencement of the delta +of the Rhône, is had from the western tower. The entrance into the +amphitheatre is by the north gate. The doorkeeper lives in a house a +little to the left of the gate. This grand ruin should, if possible, be +visited by moonlight; yet during the day the beautiful masonry is more +easily examined. It is the great sight in Arles, and it is better to +omit all the others than to do this one hurriedly. + +The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of +Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the +Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east +by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with +extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It +is best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St. +Louis on the mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and map, p. 66.) + +[Headnote: ELYSEI CAMPI. TROPHIMUS.] + +S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on the +site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down the +Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. The +first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the +monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side +by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without +lids. This, the Elysei Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested +of all its valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As +J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of the +cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be +especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury +their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with +their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône, +of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of +the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel +founded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul's converts, who was +sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end to human +sacrifices. Among the first things he is said to have done was to +consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus from a heathen into a +Christian burial-place, and add to it a little chapel. An old Arles +writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus dedicated this chapel +to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 years in this diocese he +died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried in the little chapel he +himself had built. Among the successors of Trophimus were Ambrose in +160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in 220, who died 10 years +afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years afterwards; Marcien in +252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. Cyprien in 253. Saint +Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the church of St. Honorat +beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church dates only from the +12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, excepting the +foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is semicircular, with 4 +pilasters and a small window in the centre to give light to the +officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry in two arcaded +stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper calls a small +chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel of Trophimus. + +[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.] + +The Picture Gallery, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure, +near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the +town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. On +picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the +picture gallery is the school of design. + +Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E., passing Mont-Majour 4 m. +E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les Baux by a good road. Junction at +Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, 36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m. +S.W.; Cette is 17 m. farther. (See map, p. 66.) + +[Headnote: MONT-MAJOUR.] + +4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and abbey +of Mont-Majour, all in a good state of preservation, excepting the +domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The concierge lives in a house +near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He generally shows first the church, 11th +cent., and the spacious crypt below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are +the cloisters, 11th cent., of the same kind as those of St. Trophime, +but more interesting and more perfect, and containing the tombs of some +of the counts of Anjou. Next is the beautiful square dungeon tower, +nearly as perfect as when erected in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is +ascended by 137 steps, and commands a wide prospect. From this, a stair +leads down the face of the hill to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, +principally hewn in the soft limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base +of the hill is St. Croix, dedicated in 1019, consisting of four +semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting from a square +tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille (Hôtel du +Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous sandstone. + +[Headnote: PORT SAINT LOUIS.] + + +Arles to Port Saint Louis+, at the mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S. + by steamer on the Great Rhône. Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway + unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part + of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by + irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines. + Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass + which cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that + not a village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p. 70.) + + +Port Saint Louis+ (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc, + consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of + the canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. + This canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand + the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed + to every wind, it is necessary to ascend the "tour Saint Louis," + whence the plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, + appears literally like a map. The only villages seen in the vast + expanse are Fos, on a hill, and near it the Port Bouc. + + Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient + place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from + Marseilles. + + 23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great + Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or + simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by + fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good + sculpture. + + For +Arles to Port Bouc+, 29 m. S., see p. 76. The steamer sails from + the S.W. corner of Arles (see map, page 66). + +[Headnote: ST. GILLES. LUNEL.] + + 11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is +St. Gilles+, pop. 7000. Hôtel du + Cheval-Blanc. A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, + near the Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered + a good specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a + bald wall with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are + three semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on + two single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but + the pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque + animals in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches + of the portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, + separated from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a + nave and two aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. + aisle a stair of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with + semicircular arches on short massive piers. From the centre 7 more + steps descend to the tomb of St. Gilles. All the characteristics of + this church are equally well represented in St. Trophime of Arles. + + 16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is +Lunel+, pop. 7300. + _Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of narrow streets, + with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The church is + constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and Perpignan. + On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The first-class + vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to 18°, are all + on the neighbouring gravelly eminences. + +[Headnote: AIGUES-MORTES.] + + 8 m. S. by rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of + +AIGUES-MORTES+, "stagnant waters," pop. 4300, 4 m. from the + Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and connected with it by a + navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is of great historical + interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old embrasured wall in + France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 yds. long by 149 + yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 towers. On the + western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, 96 ft. high + and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed circular + chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their + Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties + that the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their + behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for + them, but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the + highly interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, + whence the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has + not, receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis--we think + not. Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint + Louis, who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it + the most suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for + Palestine. On 25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church + Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen + Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to + Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place; + and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition, + the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. S. + from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the bathing + station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see map, page + 66). + + 49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page 105.) + + + 96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from Nîmes, + and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is + +[Headnote: MONTPELLIER.] + + +MONTPELLIER+, on the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above + the sea and 7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. _Hotels:_ H. Nevet, the best + and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the same + side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings + containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and + the Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. + Adjoining is the Lycée. + + In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, the + next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc, frequented by + commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la Gare. In the fine + broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Place + de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second class. Their omnibuses + await passengers. + + Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office + in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. + From the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de + la Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below + the prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, p. 66.) + +[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.] + + The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from + the station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the + citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a + line of boulevards, passing up by the "Hôpital Général" to the Botanic + Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, founded in + the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the direction of the + famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 acres, divided + into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., in a hollow, + surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these two + divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once + famous +École de médecine+, said to have been founded by Arab + physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now + occupies the old bishops' palace, built in the 14th cent., with + additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez, + 1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts + of the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the + college and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also + valuable anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with + 55,000 vols. Adjoining is the +Cathedral+ of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th + cents., but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White + marble statue of Mary and child by Canova. + + Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place + du Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold + weather invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower + terrace of this "Place," the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western + end of the Peyrou is the Château d'Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian + building, which receives and distributes through the town the water + brought from the fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The + aqueduct, which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite + hill, consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long. + The gate at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the + victories of Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with + statues of Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked + streets, are the Mairie and the markets. + +[Headnote: MUSÉE FABRE.] + + A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also + on the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the +Musée + Fabre+, the Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the + "Collection de la Société archéologique." The Musée Fabre, open on + Sundays and Mondays and feast days, contains, among many works of + inferior merit, some good pictures by great artists, such as Berghem, + Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van Dyck, + Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese, + Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, + Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. The + library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, which + belonged to Prince Charles Edward. + + Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called + St. Georges d'Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of + preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the + principal industries. + + From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line extends + through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and + yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m. + south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is + the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the + Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume and + linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. 3 m. from + Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the mineral water + establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and sedative. Good + for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north from Montpellier + is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu (pop. 500) to + the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and having on the + top a chapel visited by pilgrims. + + From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from + Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, page 27.) + +[Headnote: FRONTIGNAN. CETTE.] + + 109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is +Frontignan+, pop. 3000. + Possessing 570 acres of vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, + luscious, and spirituous wines, made principally from the clairette + and picardan grapes. The neighbouring marshes yield annually about + 50,000 tons of salt. + + 114 m. from Marseilles is +Cette+, pop. 29,000. At this point the + Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du + Midi, and consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to + Toulouse and Bordeaux, see Table "Bordeaux à Cette" in the "Indicateur + des Chemins de Fer du Midi." Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from + Bordeaux, and 84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await + passengers. _Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette + makes a pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. + Setius, 590 ft. Ascend by the Rue d'Esplanade, and when at the highest + part of the Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is + magnificent. In front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with + its villages. At the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond + Frontignan. The Port of Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. + long, which encloses a harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two + jetties; the western, constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the + eastern 548 yds. This busy port, besides having an extensive carrying + trade, has a large wine manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of + imitations of all the well-known wines are made annually, by mixing + different wines with each other. + + From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway + bridge) a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, + on Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade. + Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline + springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. A quart + contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the chloride of + magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 grains of the + sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 to 9 fr., and + the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du Midi enters Lake + Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See map, page 27.) + + +[Headnote: MIRAMAS. PORT BOUC.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{503}{34} ++MIRAMAS+, pop. 900, south from the station at the head of the Étang +Chamas. At the station there are a small inn and a large plantation of +almond trees, which, when in flower, exhale a delightful perfume. +Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon and L'Isle change carriages here +(p. 65). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. south. + + +MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC. + ++Miramas to Port Bouc+ by rail through a flat plain (see map, p. 66). +The two most important towns passed on the way are: +Istres+, 6¼ m. from +Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, founded in the 8th +cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of its ancient +ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt and of the +carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is +Fos+ (Fossae Marianae), pop. +1100, on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent. + At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large + tanks for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by + rail, or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 + miles S. from Arles by the canal, is +Port Bouc+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ + near the stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du + Commerce; near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang + Caroute, near the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is + an important fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. + At the end of the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of + 10 m. At the other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive + square tower in the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west + from Port Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. Louis, page 72. + (For Port Bouc to Martigues and Marseilles, see p. 118.) + + +Port Bouc to Arles+, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; + fare, 3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are + very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between + Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about + ½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. Passengers + drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors at the + S.W. corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map p. 66.) + + +[Headnote: SAINT CHAMAS.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{506½}{30½} ++SAINT CHAMAS+ (Sanctus Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. from the +station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre, and on +both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with +excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder +manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville is +the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre, +with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about +22 ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian +pilaster surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. +On the top at each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are +apparently ready to spring eastward, and the other two westward. The +bridge is in a state of perfect repair, but the sculpture and +inscription on the two arches over the entrances are slightly effaced. +The road to it is by the Hôtel de Ville and the parish church with a +rudely sculptured "Pieta" over the portal. The bridge is to the E. of +St. Chamas, and is well seen from the railway, especially when crossing +the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, which carry the rail over the +little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. E. from St. Chamas is Berre +station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly south, on +Lake Berre+, +a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in circumference. + + +[Headnote: ROGNAC.] + +{519½}{17½} ++ROGNAC+, pop. 900. Junction with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under +the Roquefavour aqueduct, 7½ m. E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. +of water per second from the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring +plain, commences opposite Pertuis, directly north from Marseilles. It is +94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under ground; it has a fall of 614 +ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of limestone hills, and crosses +numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the largest crosses the ravine +of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three +tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½ ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft. +wide at the water-way. It consists of 51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and +cost £151,394, while the cost of the whole canal from the Durance to the +sea, near Cape Croisette, a little to the east of Marseilles, has been +£2,090,000. A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons +per minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by +irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the +basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the +Palais de Longchamp. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps +pp. 66 and 123.) + +To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, pass +under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path and +partly by steps to the house of the concierge. + + +[Headnote: AIX. HÔTEL DE VILLE. CATHEDRAL.] + + 16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only + 18 m. N. by Gardanne, is +Aix+-en-Provence, pop. 29,000. _Hotels:_ + Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east end of the + Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the Hôtel du + Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the France; at + the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel + Aigle d'Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph offices + in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite the + Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was founded + 120 B.C. by the Consul Sextius Calvinus around the thermal springs, + which he himself had discovered. The temperature of the water is 95° + F., and the ingredients, iron and iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, + and chlorides of soda and magnesia, together with an organic + bituminous matter strongly impregnated with glairine. The + establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours Sextius. + Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the Cours René is + a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, "le bon Roi," king of Naples, + Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and buried at + Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, was a + poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and + astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art + and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up + to the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de + Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the + church of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the + host. A little higher up are the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1640; the + Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and + spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower, + bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de + Ville is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble + statue of Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also + the public library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer + book of King René, with illustrations said to have been done by + himself. No. 569 is a small 4to volume, with copies of letters written + by Queen Mary Stuart. The first 57 pages relate to her early history. + At page 645 commences a defence of her conduct, written by a warm + partisan of the queen. The street, ascending through the gateway of + the clock tower, leads to the university buildings, the palace of the + archbishop, and the Cathedral of +Saint Sauveur+, built in the 11th + cent., partly on the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 + ft. high, was built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The + façade was commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great + entrance door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain + outer door. In the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an + octagonal chapel with six antique marble and two granite Corinthian + columns about 30 ft. high, each shaft being of one stone. The + ornamental sculpture on the panels and in the spandrels is by Puget. + On the same side are two triptychs, one by Crayer, "Mary worshipped by + Saints," and the other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, + representing in the centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in + a clump of trees. On one wing is King René on his knees, attended by + the Magdalene, St. Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is + the king's second wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron + saints. On the outside of the shutters are the angel Gabriel and + Mary. + + On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the + left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511, + representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have + belonged to St. Paul's of London. Among the relics the church + possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000 + virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. Sebastian + presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our + Lord. + +[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.] + + The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to + the church of St. Jean and the +Picture Gallery+ adjoining; free on + Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th + cent. by the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the + Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the + left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de + Provence. + + On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, + inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large + collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have + either labels or numbers. + + The "Biscotins" seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits + about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, "Gallissons," + are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around + Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged + is--the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked, + by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as + in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed + to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees + are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre. + +[Headnote: RIANS. MEYRARGUES.] + + (For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123.) Coach daily from the + "Cours" to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. E. The + castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the + cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the culminating + point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains. + +Rians+, pop. 2900, _Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive + trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the + railway 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing + Jouques, 7½ m. N., with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the + gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the + Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous + mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles+ (pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Hôtel du + Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu, + 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a + painting on wood attributed to King René. + + +Meyrargues+ (pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle + in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers + from Rians. + +[Headnote: DILIGENCES. BRANCH LINES.] + + Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by La + Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. W. Coach from + Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from + Pelissanne is Lambesc. + + Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the + best way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where + a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, + 3½ m. farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de + la Vie, visited by pilgrims. +Lambesc+, 14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is + a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill + Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal + industries. + + 7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is +Gardanne+, pop. + 3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to + Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See + under Carnoules, p. 142.) + +From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at +Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. 3¼ m. S. +from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers, +junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E. + +Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7 miles north +from Marseilles, is the station of +L'Estaque+, a village on the sea, +full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valley +of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect, +and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2d +December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV., to the glory +of which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of three +brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor stonemason, who died while +Pierre was still a boy. + ++Marseilles+ (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principal +hotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrival +side of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side of +the railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the +prices are rather more than moderate. + + ++LYONS TO NÎMES.+ + +172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins, +Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil, +Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles. + + Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66. + + + miles from LYONS + miles to NÎMES + +{ }{172} +NÎMES + ++LYONS+: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing +Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop. 1400, +with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle converted +into a school. 4 m. farther is +Givors-canal+, where the Nîmes line +separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of Givors, +commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by the coal +barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The train +now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, famous for +chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to +Ampuis+ (opposite +Vaugris), pop. 2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and +chestnuts, and possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which +46 acres belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of +France, remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It +is a little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by +rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white +wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, pop. +1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ H. Commerce; +Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by coach is Pelussin, +pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of Virieux castle. +7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway viaduct of 66 arches. + + +{39¼}{132¾} ++PEYRAUD+, pop. 400. Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to +Grenoble, 60 m. E. by Rives and Voreppe. +Annonay+, pop. 16,500, built +in the hollow and on the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the +confluence of the Déôme and the Cance. _Inn:_ H. Midi, in the principal +square, occupying the centre of the low town. + The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. + The Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the + brothers Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon + ascent, 3d June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the + founders of one of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper + was long esteemed the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by + coach, traversing a beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From + Annonay the road ascends 9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_ + France. Bourg, as the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and + manufacturing town, on the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains + covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes + the castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating + point on a vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country + around is covered with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the + road are to guide travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now + crosses the plateau called La République, bounded by the Bois de + Merlon, and then descends to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. + Etienne, and La Rivière 2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is + Tournon. + +[Headnote: TOURNON.] + +56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with which +it is connected by two suspension bridges, is +Tournon+, pop. 6100, on +the Rhône. Hôtel de l'Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the +landing-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily +reach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel +is the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. +Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on +lofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal +industries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending all the way +(see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; to St. Agrève, 9¼ +hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. 3 m. N. from Tournon +is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.) + + +{65½}{106½} ++SAINT PERAY+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also +omnibus for Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the +station, situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The +vineyards here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which +is natural, not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is +the case with the other champagnes. + +69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by the +Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, La +Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2½ m. +farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000, +2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.) + + +[Headnote: LA VOULTE.] + +{77}{95} ++LA VOULTE+, pop. 5000. _Inn:_ H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway +and steamboat stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank +and on the steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit +are the Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by +Bernard Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in +1582, who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, +and the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large +iron-foundry, employing 170 men. + The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the + decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ H. + Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The water contains + iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily from La Voulte + to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., and to St. + Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places separates at + St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and 15 m. S.E. from Le + Cheilard. (See map, p. 46.) St. Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste; + Voyageur. Is prettily situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le + Cheilard, between high rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a + series of laboriously walled terraces, on which are small fields of + wheat intermingled with walnut, chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry + trees, and in the more favoured spots vines and peach and mulberry + trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is itself terraced the greater + part of the way. A few miles up the river, opposite the village + Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a very good specimen of an old + donkey-backed bridge, +Le Cheilard+, 2130 ft. above the sea, pop. + 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great diligence centre of Ardèche, + is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow streets, beautifully situated on + the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty terraced mountains. Coaches + daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. Every other day to Annonay + by the same road as the Tournon coach as far as a little beyond + Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges northward. Coach + daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, + at the confluence of the Eysse and the Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. + E. from Le Puy, near the river Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.) + + +[Headnote: ST. SAUVEUR. LE CHEILARD. MARCOLS.] + +ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE. + + +Saint Sauveur to Le Beage+ by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and + Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St. + Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the + road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. +St. Pierreville+, 1788 ft. + above the sea, pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple + Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville + passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road + follows the course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. + before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of +Olbon+, on + both sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and + a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a + spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas. + + 6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is +Marcols+, 3380 ft. above the sea, + a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the + Gluyère. _Inn:_ H. de l'Union. This is the terminus of the + stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. + As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan + for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, + is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next + morning in a vehicle hired from the "Bureau des Diligences," 15 frs. + per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. + Le Beage is 28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols + 6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m. + + The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of + steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed + situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive + stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former + one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. + A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le + Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. + Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from + Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic + prisms. + +[Headnote: LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL. SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.] + + 4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft. + above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where + generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes + may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 + hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which + plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way. + + +THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC. + + 2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the + road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison + Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison + Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road, + which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly + seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour's easy + walking from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. + The +Gerbier-de-Joncs+ (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed + cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. + above the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and + extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of + trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, + running first into a little circular basin for the use of the + adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet + from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to + turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the + Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of + Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return + for the night to Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues. + + +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage+, 12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The + road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, + continues to ascend till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains + its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the + Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road + crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the + village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat. + + [Map: Mont Mezenc and the Source of the Loire] + +[Headnote: LE BEAGE. MEZENC.] + + +Le Beage+, pop. 850. _Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. + A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, + beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which + rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop + cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are + held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to + October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females + is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed + to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured + glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay + them at the rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the + breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker + can earn 1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater + is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres. + + From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of +Mezenc+ (pronounce Mezing) is + visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above + the sea, 7½ m. N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that + distance by the direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the + night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. + above the sea, or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the + hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour. + + +LE BEAGE TO LE PUY. + + Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On + the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the + sea, and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le + Beage and Monastier, 10 frs. + +[Headnote: LE MONASTIER.] + + +LE MONASTIER+, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. + _Inns:_ Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m. + S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the + sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles, + connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, + St. Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in + 680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and + repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice + exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal + consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short + columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the + large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof + runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and + animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels + on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the + chapel of Saint Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the + "protecteur du Monastier"--"le bon pasteur, qui s'expose a la mort + pour son troupeau"--the "conservateur des fruits de la terre." (See + his litany.) + + 11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful + mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence + and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large + "Place" and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the + village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. more, on an + eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress + of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the + town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from Brives. + + 36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and 33 m. S.E. + from St. George d'Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and + Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is + + +[Headnote: LE PUY. THE CATHEDRAL.] + ++Le Puy+, + + pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers + Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town. + _Hotels:_ Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan + is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de + Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles, + Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone + pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables + to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in + front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico + to the portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th + cent., and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone + at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood + on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the "Pierre aux + fièvres," from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who + lay upon it. + + From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the + cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of + the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side + entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an + extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side + of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., + on the other is the bishop's palace, and in front a small terrace. At + the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., + preceded by an arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of + an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the + short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south + side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the + most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of + alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 + it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square + compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on + four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. + Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working + image,[1] brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of + Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of + 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this + compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time + by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a + numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in + procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged + in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le + Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the + sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is + the baptistery of +St. Jean+, built in the 4th cent, on the + foundations of a Roman edifice. + + [Footnote 1: The original image was of cedar, with the face, both + of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, + and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian + like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen.] + +[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DE FRANCE.] + + From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, a mass + of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the + top is the image of +Notre Dame de France+, 433 ft. above the Hôtel de + Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th + September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52½ + ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5 + ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child, + J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90 + steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps + extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this + colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her + right side is seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a + hill 2645 ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. + Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours + Mons. + + On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up + to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d. + 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the + sculptor of both of them. + +[Headnote: AIGUILHE.] + + Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called + the +Aiguilhe+, 265 ft. high, 518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 + at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is + the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and + consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the + end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and + repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the + cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb. + + Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an + octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the + post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower + which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little + distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left + of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous + Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the + fortress of Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende. + +[Headnote: MUSÉE.] + + In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil + is the +Musée+, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything + is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left + are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The + best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now + occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is + a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities, + mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages. + +[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. OURS MONS.] + + Upstairs is the +Picture Gallery+. In the centre room are portraits of + the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of + the "Danse Macabre," dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu. + Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris + 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native + town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to + the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664; + Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. + 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; + Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining + small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the + Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation, + Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. + Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of Charles I. of + England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, + Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next + room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the + females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of + Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great + emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre + case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains, + Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace + trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to + Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons. + + 1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is +Ours Mons+, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 + ft. above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr. + Scrope most remarkable; "exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of + volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous + products of various natures, belonging to different epochs." + + +LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. (Map, p. 46.) + + +Le Puy+, 2045 ft., +to Langogne+, 2940 ft. above the sea, 26 m. S. by + coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold, + treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is about a mile + south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from Pradelles. 8 m. + from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a + road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. above the sea, pop. 1450. + _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about + 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct crater of +Le Bouchet+, 231 ft. + higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. deep. It is + very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After + Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the + horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and + afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft., pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. + from Le Puy and 5 m. from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne + railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits + passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St. + Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46). + + +Pradelles to Mayres+, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a + good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p. 95), La + Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near + the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing + above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into + Ardèche. + + From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St. + Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and + 12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach. + + +[Headnote: ESPALY. BORNE. DARSAC.] + +LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. (Map, p. 46.) + + For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to +Langeac+ by + St. Georges d'Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line, + 3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This + railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct + volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles. + + +Le Puy to Langeac+, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line + traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1 m. + from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of + basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the + Riou-Pézeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been + found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt + called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three + tiers, called les orgues d'Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at + the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of + a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy. + + 8¾ m. from Puy is +Borne+, 2535 ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble + in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le + Puy. 5½ m. E. from this station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, + passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th + cent., is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the + imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 + steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th + cent., commanding an extensive view. + + 13 m. W. from Le Puy is +Darsac+, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small + hamlet, with a restaurant, the +station for Chaise-Dieu+, 13¾ m. N., + fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond + Chaise-Dieu. + +[Headnote: LA CHAISE-DIEU.] + + The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little + village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the sea, + with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and + Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the + Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. + the high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at +La + Chaise-Dieu+, 3576 ft. above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d'Or; + Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church + participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and + canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons + of N. D. du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and + most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and + his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery + at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly + proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or + Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of + Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his + elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on + the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was + continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom + are the façade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, + and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and + 110 high, attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot + de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with + a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, + are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings + are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two + sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and + traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four. + + The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall + plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which + spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, + and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same + height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one + between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where + a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery + has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. + long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 + carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of + Arras tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the + centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with + the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an + altar table of black marble. + + On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is + the "Danse Macabre," or dance of death, a favourite subject with + artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund + gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and + demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and + warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst + of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the + sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the + unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last + abbot of La Chaise-Dieu. + + +[Headnote: ARLANC.] + +La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert. + + 10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and + 11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is +Arlanc+, pop. + 4500, _Inn:_ H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore, + consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed + mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here. + +[Headnote: AMBERT. FIX-ST. GENEYS.] + + 11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by + rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating + point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the + sea. 15 m. from Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. + 2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some + 13th cent. houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the + family of the Tour d'Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from + Thiers, is Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and + the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or + 36¾ m. N. from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see + p. 358; Thiers, p. 367. + + The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p. 46) is +Fix-St. + Geneys+, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_ + H. des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the + Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2½ m. farther is the station + for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. + farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. above the sea. + +[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC. MONISTROL.] + + The most westerly station on the line is +St. Georges d'Aurac+, 1872 + ft. above the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy. + 58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes (see + map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop. + 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. E. is the château Chavagnac, the + birthplace of General Lafayette. 5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, + most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the + Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the + 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going + north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d'Aurac. 4½ m. + S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, + is +Langeac+, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and 127 m. N. from + Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their + omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town + near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates + from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the town, in the valley of Morange, + is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.) + + 15 m. S. from Langeac is +Monistrol+-d'Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea, + pop. 1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side + of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to +Le Puy+, 17 m. N.E. by + St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in + a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of + Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea. + 10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old + church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes, + 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and Mont + Bonzon. Coach from +Monistrol to Saugues+, 6½ m. W., 3116 ft., pop. + 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the + Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the + "English general." It consists of a square vaulted roof of small + stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high and 6-3/8 ft. apart. + It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel + at Valence (see p. 44). + +[Headnote: LE POUZIN. PRIVAS.] + + miles from LYONS + miles to NÎMES + + {81}{91} + +LE POUZIN+, pop. 3000, _Inn:_ H. Lion d'Or, on the Ouvèze, which here + enters the Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old + castle. Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. +Privas+, pop. 8000. + _Inns:_ Croix d'Or; Louvre. On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at + the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 ft. higher, and at the confluence of the + Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a + distance, consists chiefly of narrow, crooked, steep streets, and + dingy houses. From the promenade called the Esplanade, planted with + plane trees, is an excellent view of the picturesque valley of the + Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the Coiron, especially of Mount + Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the plain of the Lai, is a house called + the Logis du Roi, in which Louis XIII. established his headquarters in + 1629, when, with Cardinal Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant + inhabitants in the town, commanded by the brave Montbrun. + + From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. _Inn:_ + H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières the coaches to + La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and + to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of + the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas, + 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map p. 46.) + + +[Headnote: ROCHEMAURE.] + +{98}{74} ++ROCHEMAURE+, pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the +Rhône. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, but +the old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of +the castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and most +frequented commences just opposite the "auberge," traverses the centre +of the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with +the arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the +battlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the +seigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on +a needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the +Keep, like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up +will be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley +of the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. +These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a +massive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th +cent. by the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present +condition by order of Louis XIII. + +A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than +an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of +the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic +columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear. + + +[Headnote: LE TEIL.] + +{95¾}{76¼} ++LE TEIL+, pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers +for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the Rhône (p. 48). +Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line between Nîmes and +Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, 17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, +and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to +Nieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance +into Ardèche (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56). + + +[Headnote: AUBENAS. VALS.] + ++Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.+ + + 5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba + Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from + Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, _Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with + vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, + and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the + highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now + containing the college, the hospital, and some other public + institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk, + butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas, + excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.) + + 3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus + awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its + +Mineral Waters+. _Hotels:_ Des Bains, on an eminence above the + bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are + the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important + springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe; + Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to + 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to + October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among + hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut + trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the + eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain, + and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a + grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little + beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, + and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up + the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so + pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the + Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to + the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove + paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may + be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and + magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the + arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid + gas. + +[Headnote: ANTRAIGUES.] + + 5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is + +Antraigues+, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, + at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents--the Bise, Mas, + and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent + view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the +Coupe d'Aizac+, + covered with a beautiful reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise. + + +[Headnote: NEYRAC-LES-BAINS. THUEYTS. MAYRES.] + +AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. (Maps, pp. 56 and 46.) + + Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through + Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is + +Neyrac-les-Bains+, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des + Bains; H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, and 9½ + from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger, + containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81° + Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place, + the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in + 2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m. + W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the + Médéric, is +Thueyts+, pop. 2600, _Inn:_ H. Burine, situated on a bed + of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. + Through this bed the Ardèche has, in cutting a passage for itself, + laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. + high, extending nearly 2 m. down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg + are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Médéric, called the + Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d'Enfer, 330 ft., which, + unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part + commences the Pavé-des-Géants, a tableland composed of granite and + basalt of an average height of 214 ft. from the base, lined with + vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock, + is the +Echelle du Roi+, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, + within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the + tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. + The ascent requires about 1 hour. + + The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near + the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d'Abraham, + 4358 ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation. + + 5½ m. from Thueyts is +Mayres+, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce. + 1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft. + above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge + between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. + For Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From + Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet + of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d'Astet, 4925 ft. above the + sea. + + 7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170 + ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is La + Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and 14 from + Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea, + where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the + travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is + Coucouron, pop. 1400. + + The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the + snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter. + + 35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m. + from Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages + 26, 56 and 46). + + +[Headnote: PRADES.] + ++Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, St. Eulalie, +and Source of the Loire.+ + + For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p. 46. + + 11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the + terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it + coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, + is situated on an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In + the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting + terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the + Ardèche, and to the east of Jaujac, is +Prades+, pop. 1200, on the + Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin. + + Near the railway terminus is the village of +Pont-de-la-Baume+, pop. + 900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, at the + confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the Ardèche. One + of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the + neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded + here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet, + Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it. + +[Headnote: JAUJAC. MONTPEZAT.] + + 3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is +Jaujac+, the + Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence + above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from + Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms. + From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by + the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the + columns, which, however, are not vertical. About ½ m. from the town is + the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the + coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and + gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the + crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous + chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals. + + 14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by + diligence, is +Montpezat+. The road from Aubenas ascends by the + Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which + are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on, + within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of + Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. high, + over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulière or + Fontollière. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. + Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. + The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the + top. The bridge is about 10 minutes' walk from Montpezat. + + +Montpezat+-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above the + sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is the + terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in + the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the + new road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of + the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but + the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the + village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant. + + +MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY. + + To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage, + 16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12 m., + 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the + road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite the extinct + volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake + Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above the sea. + After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort, + crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades, + 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le + Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see p. 84). + +[Headnote: SAINTE EULALIE.] + + From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by + Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. +Sainte Eulalie+, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure, + in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from + the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in + the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the + source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the + one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the + path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp. 46 and + 85). + + +[Headnote: RUOMS. LARGENTIÈRE.] + ++Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d'Arc.+ + + See map, page 56. + + 25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of Alais, + is +Ruoms+. Station for Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. + W., and for Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe; + France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, + pop. 5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and + glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with + important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L'Argentière, situated + in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous + mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the + Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300. + Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb, + Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and + the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the + chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the + arms of the family of Joyeuse. + + The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a + considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates. + + +[Headnote: PONT D'ARC.] + +VALLON TO THE PONT D'ARC. (Map, p. 56.) + + One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_ + *H. du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont + d'Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as + far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves. + A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs.; to St. Martin it costs + 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. from the railway station of + St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). + The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont, + 2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing down the + Ardèche. The Pont d'Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche, + composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through + which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft. + high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick. + There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is + unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding + scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry + trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. high, + which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great + stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them + is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles, + honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are + better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by + other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly + appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54.) + + + miles from LYONS + miles to NÎMES + +{102½}{69½} ++VIVIERS+, pop. 3300. _Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are +along the road parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is +on the hill behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, +along the W. side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the +quarrying and preparing of which forms the principal industry of the +place. Coach to Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing +St. Thomé, pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, +which flows through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the +opposite or east side of the Rhône. + + +[Headnote: BOURG-ST. ANDEOL.] + +{109½}{62½} ++BOURG-ST. ANDEOL+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their +omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on +the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le Bourg has handsome quays +alongside the Rhône, a church founded in the 11th cent., and some houses +of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards from the town, at the foot +of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de Tournes, which, after turning +various mills, flows into the Rhône. About 20 ft. above it is a much +effaced sculpture in relief, representing the sacrifice of a bull to the +god Mithras. + + +[Headnote: ST. JUST.] + +{115}{57} ++ST. JUST+ and St. Marcel station, from which both towns are less than a +mile, but in different directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is +St. Martin, pop. 600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. +A ferry-boat crosses the river. On the other side, a little farther up, +is Aiguèze, pop. 450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, +but not seen from St. Martin. + +Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. up +the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price depends +upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of a +tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into spacious lofty +caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, and +fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none but +ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour. +The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-Saint +Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol. + + +[Headnote: PONT-ST. ESPRIT.] + +{119}{53} ++PONT-ST. ESPRIT+, pop. 5000. H. de l'Europe. Coach to La Croisière, on +the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière page +50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons and Avignon. Pont-Saint +Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the western Rhône railway, +makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, with pleasant +promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge are the church +of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in the 15th cent. +Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. Within, down a +steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel constructed in +1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a +beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant +pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the +Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery. +Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. At +Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30 +inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, page 56). + +Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m. +N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.) + +7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. H. du +Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach to Uzès, +17 m. W. + + +{132½}{39½} ++LAUDUN+, pop. 2200, about 2½ m. west from the station, and 10 m. from +Orange, is built on a hill 350 ft. high. The vineyards in the +neighbourhood produce a good white wine. Junction with branch to Alais, +35½ m. west, by Connaux, St. Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and +Mejannes; small and uninteresting towns (see map, p. 26). + + +[Headnote: ROQUEMAURE.] + +{137½}{34½} ++ROQUEMAURE+, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at +station. Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the +island of Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is +in the neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public +promenade with large trees, the great embankment to protect the town +from the invasions of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of +which the most remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point +of a great rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the +village. Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the +Rhône, has a dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of +Avignon, died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good +wine is made. + + +[Headnote: PONT-D'AVIGNON.] + +{144¾}{27¼} ++PONT-D'AVIGNON+, station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon +(p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. The omnibus between +Avignon and Villeneuve passes the station every hour. Tram every ¼ +between the station and Avignon. + +7 m. S. from the Pont-d'Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, at a +considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is Thezièrs, pop. +650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the ruins of a +castle. (Map, page 66.) + + +{159¾}{12¼} ++REMOULINS+, pop. 1400, with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to +Uzès, 12½ m. N.W. On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, +is Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge. +(For description and directions see pp. 64 and 104, and map page 66.) + +[Headnote: UZÈS.] + ++UZÈS+, pop. 5600, _Inn_ Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by +picturesque calcareous rocks. From the inn walk past the church St. +Etienne, then turn to the left, and having gone down the avenue ascend +the double stair leading up to the beautiful terrace, on which, to the +left, stands the Cathedral, and to the right, projecting from the +balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which +Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in the +deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the Roman +aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a square +basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of which five +are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by twin open +arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled roof, +partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of the +church is the bishop's palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat of +the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the +most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with +turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l'Horloge, +surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The +octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the +École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St. +Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret +of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir +(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the +Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and +Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le +Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs +d'Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour de +la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, 11th +cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and in +front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of the +"Tour de la Chapelle" contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is a +large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross of +copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair, +vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best +wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides +the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, 17 m. +E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. N. from the Pont +d'Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit. + +[Headnote: SERNHAC-LÉDENON.] + +After Remoulins the train halts at the station +Sernhac-Lédenon+. ++Lédenon+, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and +Sernhac+, +pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from Nîmes is the St. +Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer, Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with +a handsome modern church, and in the cemetery the ruins of the chapel of +St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from railway. + + + [Map: Nimes] + +[Headnote: NÎMES. AMPHITHEATRE.] + +172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E. from +Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m. N.W. from +Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by Clermont-Ferrand, is + +NÎMES, + +population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. A flight of +steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the station. At the foot +of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty comfortable room 2 frs., +dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams start from in front of the house. In +the town are: On the Esplanade, the H. Luxembourg, the most expensive. +By the side of it, fronting a garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9 +to 12 frs. Fronting the amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to +10 frs. Opposite the Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the +most conveniently situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses +await passengers at the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. +du Grand Cours, between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph +Office in the Place de la Salamandre, a small "Place" off the B. des +Calquières. Temple Protestant, the Porte d'Auguste, and the handsome new +church of St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end +of the B. des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade. + +_Sights._--The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the Roman Baths. +_Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the Amphitheatre, and at the +Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per hour. + +A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the +Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble +colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the +Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the +pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with +its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and +the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua. + +The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman +Amphitheatre+, the most perfect +extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437 +ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building +are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches +being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an +attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained +the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the +upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being +roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching from side to side. There +were four entrances, one facing each of the cardinal points of the +compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats in 4 zones, capable of +accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. The lowest zone +corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the galleries. The +present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., opposite No. 8 +Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is under the fifth +arch west. No description can express the sensation experienced from +contemplating this vast Roman structure from the highest tier or from +the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it must be remembered +that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent step might have +serious consequences. The date of the building is uncertain. Titus, +Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured to have been the +founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, the Castrum +Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8th cent., +till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died in 715. + +On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, with, +on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including the +Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum, +containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the +neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other +pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of John the +Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a Girl and a +Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of his mother, +by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in his coffin, by +Paul Delaroche, his chef d'oeuvre; "Nero and a Sorceress experimenting +on a slave with the poison they were preparing for Britannicus," by +Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by Gérard Dow, +Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van den Welde, +and Wouvermans. + +At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with frescoes +on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin. + +[Headnote: LA MAISON CARRÉE. CATHEDRAL.] + +Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them +La Maison +Carrée+, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably part of the +Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending east and +west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed to have +been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a platform, and +is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 Roman-Corinthian +columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll frieze, sculptured +dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are attached, excepting +the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the railing are +mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns. + +Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor, +built in the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The +most venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of +stone. A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, +extends under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by +brackets with acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, +in the interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior +frieze. + +[Headnote: ROMAN BATHS. TOURMAGNE. FORT.] + +N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases and +statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane +trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the +temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built B.C. 24, of huge +carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, and reduced to its present state in +1577. The little of the ornamental work that remains is very much +mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected from the troublesome winds of +Nîmes, are the +Roman Baths+, about 12 ft. below the level of the +gardens, the vaulting being supported on small columns, over which rise +open stone balustrades. Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies +them, as placid but somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse +(p. 65). + +From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier to +an octagonal structure called the +Tourmagne+, 90 ft. high, erected +before the Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was +originally filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in +search of treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in +1843. The view from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents. + +Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the +town prison. On the western side of the fort are the remains of the +reservoir, _castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by +the canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings +water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the fort. + +In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. high, +pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte +d'Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of +the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the +Rue Carrètérie. (See plan.) + +The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia +Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the +reign of Augustus it was a "colonia," and possessed in the days of +Strabo the "+Jus Latii+," and therefore was independent of the Roman +governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was exported +to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal emporium in +the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in Paris, +particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de Remède. +Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who introduced +tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis Philippe, were +born at Nîmes. + +[Headnote: PONT-DU-GARD.] + +13½ miles from Nîmes is the +Pont-du-Gard+, built by the Romans in the +reign of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the +neighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the waters of the Eure and +Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which only vestiges now +remain. This "Pont," which spans the valley or banks of the river +Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total height above the +bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are formed of hewn +stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; but the mason +work underneath the channel of the third or top story is of rough stones +cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The first or lowest row +consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, except the largest, +which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven arches of the same +dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches of 15 ft. span. +A stair from the right bank of the river leads up to the watercourse +above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking boldness of its design +this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and superiority over all the +other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, and the piers in proportion +lighter, and had the same principle been extended so as to have formed +it of one single row from top to bottom, it would have equalled in the +skill and disposition of its materials the more judicious and more +elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p. 77). Take ticket +to Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon, +take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another +ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins +station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p. 64). + +79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is +Marseilles+ (p. 111), passing +Tarascon, 17 m. (p. 66), and Arles, 25 m. (p. 68). + + +[Headnote: VIGAN.] + +NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN. + + See Map, p. 26. + + 58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs., + to Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of + importance on this line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, + are very picturesque. 27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, + pop. 1800, junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E. + to Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is + St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this + the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan, on + the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche, + omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. farther + is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron mines. + 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line crosses + the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre follows + the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; + Cheval Blanc; both in the "Place," near the statue of the Chevalier + d'Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and "Mort glorieusement à Clastercamp + à 27 ans." Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is 860 ft. + above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with terraces of + vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to nearly their + summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved streets. + The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the post + office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the + neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty, + on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the + Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it + are the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat. + +[Headnote: VALLERAUGUE.] + + Coach daily to +Valleraugue+, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m. N., in a very + picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded valley between + the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron mountains + towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a little higher, + towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent is made in + about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the culminating + point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The source of the + Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of the Tarn to + the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent fishing, + botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood. + +[Headnote: LARZAC.] + + +Le Vigan to Millau+, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village + the coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with + coal-mines. From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ + m., and Arre, 6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves + by a tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with + the village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the + Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of 7 m. + the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ H. du Nord, + producing excellent pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this + ascends the southern side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with + vineyards, olive and mulberry trees, and farther up forests of + chestnut trees. From the other side of the ridge it descends to the + valley of the Dourbie, in which is St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, + _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having + traversed the valley of the Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches + Nant, pop. 2000, a poor village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau. + Shortly afterwards the diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of + +Larzac+, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the village of La + Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is Millau, on the line to + Paris by Rodez. + + [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the Passes from France into Italy] + + + + +[Headnote: TEMPERATURE. VEGETATION.] + +THE RIVIERA. + + +HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE. + + [Illustration: thermometer] + +The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of +the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. +It is usually divided into two portions--the Riviera from Hyères to +Genoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles +long. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former--the +Western Riviera--which has been subjected to most careful and minute +meteorological observations, and the various stations classified +according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203 +miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in +all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from +each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some +peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity +being more often accidental and social--such as the people met with, the +lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which +exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of the +mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. None +of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficiently +high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher +mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep +indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams, +descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and +all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them--the more +sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is +the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous ++Mistral+, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels like +a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean winter +temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, considered the +coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of San Remo, +considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are December and +January. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively. +Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule, +cloudy and wet weather the exception. "In December wild flowers are rare +till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, +and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have +become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses, +primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are +springing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. +In March the hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the +Mediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, +convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli." --_H. S. Roberton_. There is a +much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm +flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the +midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the +orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), the +camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree (_Ceratona +siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and different species of the +Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. In marshy places the +common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great height; while the _Sedum +dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dry +rocky banks with verdure. The most important tree commercially is the +olive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tracts +in the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree +(_Quercus suber_), the Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the +chestnut tree. The Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in +the orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the +exception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees +ripen their fruit too late for the winter resident. + +On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, Grasse, +and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. or 9s. +per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantial +meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. In +some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. If +two are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, an +excellent plan is to take a furnished room, which, with a south exposure +and good furniture, ought to cost about £2 per month. They can easily +prepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them. +If the party be numerous, apartments should be taken, which vary from £2 +to £30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnished +apartments are let at prices varying from £18 to £100. As a general rule +it is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to select +either the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequate +idea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house. +A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, a cook about one-half more, +but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal to +nearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by the +kilogramme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. +3¼ oz. + +[Headnote: COST OF LIVING. FISH. VEGETABLES.] + +Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton +cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when at +their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the litre. The +best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese there are a +great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort and +the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 3s. +6d. the kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the +coast are: the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or +Bass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard +(Grondin), the John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the +Conger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior +to those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good +vegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, +celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and +artichokes. The cardon (_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon +porrifolius_) are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon +tastes like celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes +are of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the +stations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, +bakers, and grocers. + +[Headnote: ADVANTAGES.] + +Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the +Riviera, "some of the general advantages of the invalid's life in this +region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine +which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun often +rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness and +warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without a +cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying in +his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints which +characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light, +a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a softness of +outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy description. In the +early stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young and +active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden exposure, this cheering +influence is most beneficial. It is of great importance that, while +taking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an early +age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-day +increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under the +influence of medicine and climate a large number of these patients +gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with due +care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglect +to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience and advice +with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and may often +prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in unhealthy +localities." To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, that +patients should bring with them a letter from their physician describing +their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted. + +The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then there +is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny walks +there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and +Bordighera. + +[Headnote: SEA-BATHING. DOCTORS' FEES.] + +_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be continued with advantage by many +during the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall of +the tide are so trifling, the beach is always in a fit state for the +bather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised than +that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt. + +_Doctors' Fees._--French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10 +frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20 +frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients. +An extra charge is made for night work. + +Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, tea, +arrowroot, Liebig's extract, Gregory's mixture, opium pills, and a +little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary +wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and +should always be watered. + + +[Headnote: MARSEILLES.] + +MARSEILLES. + ++MARSEILLES+, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 hrs. +37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice +5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons, 120½ m. W. +from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the departure side of the +railway station is the +Terminus Hotel+ (dear). The hotel omnibuses +await passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, to +which the driver of its omnibus will respond. + +A plentiful supply of +Cabs+ is both at the railway and the custom-house +station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished with an +official tariff, which, though constantly changing, may be stated to +be--Between 6 A.M. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the course, +1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2¼ +frs. From midnight to 6 A.M. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30 +kilo., or 68-4/5 lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each +passenger 1 fr. + +_Hotels._--In the Rue Cannebière, ascending from the Port, are very fine ++Cafés+, and in the eastern continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the +best +Hotels+. The Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles; +and the Hôtel Marseilles; all near each other, and charging from 12 to +20 frs. per day. + +Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R. +Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between +the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; on +the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the +Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des Colonies. + +In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand and +an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of +which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms, +2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de +l'Europe, a "maison meublée," in which good rooms, including service, +cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the neighbouring +restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is G. Restaurant des +Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the Restaurant Bouches du +Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class houses in the Cours +Belsunce which can be recommended are--the Californie; Deux Mondes; +Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel du Cours is good also, but +it is only a "maison meublée." The continuation of the Cours Belsunce is +called the Cours St. Louis, where a flower-market is held. Just off this +Cours, in the Rue d'Aubagne, is a cheap, good, and clean house, the +hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to 3 frs.; dinner, à la +carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and cheap house, the Hôtel +Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for which either a cab or +the general omnibus must be taken at the station. + +[Headnote: STEAMBOATS. CUSTOM-HOUSE.] + +_Steamboats._--The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et +Cie., of Fraissinet et Cie., of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc., +arrive and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is +at the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gates are +porters and a large cab-stand. The custom-house contains one +waiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third. +Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6 +sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receive +an acknowledgment. A tramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette to +Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebière by the R. de la +République. There are no hotels near the steamboat station. + +Small boats' station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the ++Château d'If+, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small steamers +make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, but +do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this part of the +quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges and +other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on the port, the +Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. At +the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean, +other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carénage, by the side of +Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the interesting old church of St. +Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame. + +The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. There is +another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post Office at No. +53. Poste-Restante, "guichet," on the ground-floor, opposite the +entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d'Amour. Anglican +chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallel +to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the École des +Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday. + +Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan. + +The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue +Noailles. + + [Map: Marseilles] + +[Headnote: SIGHTS. TRAMS.] + ++Sights.+--Palais Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the Picture +Gallery and the +Natural History Museum+; free. Closed on Mondays and +every day between 12 and 2 (see p. 114). Near the Palais is the +Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 116). The +shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the +Corniche road. + +Of all the +Trams+ the most important starts from the left of the statue +in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des Fleurs and the Prado +to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond the racecourse. Just behind +the Bonneveine terminus is the +Château Borély+, containing the Musée +d'Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in the +neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin of +Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Roman +mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies; and in the end +room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff of +the prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple of +Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, fayence from +Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, +and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. in diameter. + +[Headnote: CORNICHE. BOUILLABAISSE.] + +Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de Rome, +near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche road, considered the +most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. The gardens and +pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to the +irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on the +Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of the restaurants the +best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, charging 15 frs. per +day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5 frs. additional. The +house is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at the +entrance into the Vallon de l'Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, has +handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish dinners and +Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. This +establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along the +Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept a +supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse, +a kind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes--plum-pudding, +puchero, haggis, etc.--admits of considerable latitude in the +preparation. The essentials are--whole rascasses and chapons (scorpion +fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a liquor mixed with a little of the +best olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra good +Bouillabaisse should include also crayfish, a few mussels, and some +pieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass. + +[Headnote: PALAIS DE LONGCHAMP.] + +Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking a +short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles, +enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2 +sous. +The Palais de Longchamp+, which cost £165,000, consists of two +rectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionic +volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massive +archway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringing +the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November +1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of Louis +Philippe I. Another records that the palace was commenced in the reign +of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 15th August +1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes a +copious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft. +in three stages. The wing to the right, standing with the face to the +palace, contains the Natural History Museum; and the other, the picture +and sculpture galleries. + +All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large +pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room +left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best +pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:--F. Bol, d. +1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, d. 1671, +portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated; +Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; Gongo, d. 1764, +Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d. +1554, portrait; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713, +Cardinal Cibo; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766, +Mme. de Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino, +d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; F. Porbus, d. +1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; Rembrandt, d. 1669, +A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d. +1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640, +Wild-boar Hunt; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588, +Venetian princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the +right is the "+École Provençal+," containing, among other +paintings--Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milkmaid, and +portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, d. 1849, "La +Vierge Consolatrice"; P. Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, among +others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman feeding Child. + +The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the +conchological division and the collection of ammonites. + +From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the palace, +on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the sea, +supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See under +Roquefavour, p. 77.) At this part of the hill is one of the entrances to +the Zoological Gardens; free on Sundays, when they are crowded with +people. Near the entrance is the +Observatory+, one of the most +important in France. + +[Headnote: HÔTEL DE VILLE. LA CONSIGNE.] + +The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is protected +on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. Its +approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant is on +the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from Marseilles. +The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres, +and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned trading-vessels, with +their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphatically +the "Port," containing 75½ acres. From the end of the "Port" extends +eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street La Cannebière, so +called from the rope-walks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly the +middle of the N. side of the "Port" is the +Hôtel de Ville+ (1 in plan), +built in the 17th cent., and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born at +Marseilles; while at the western extremity of the same side, next Fort +St. Jean, is a low building called La Consigne, or Health Office. Over +the chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful +relief in white marble by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To +the right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce +administering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants of +Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David. +Fronting the windows, "The frigate Justice returning from Constantinople +with the plague on board," "l'an 4 de la République." Opposite the +fireplace, "The cholera on board the Melpomene," by Horace Vernet. Next +it, by Guerin, "The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had died +of the plague." Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two +windows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne +is the pier of the ferry-boats. Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town +infirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. above the quay of +Joliette, [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ARC DE TRIOMPHE.] the +Cathedral+, +a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., and 165 ft. from E. to W. +at the transept; built of gray Florentine stone alternating with a +whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Arles. The nave is 52 ft. +wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome is 196 ft. high. Behind +the cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4), +and the Hospice de la Charité (7). Eastwards, in the Place d'Aix, is the ++Arc de Triomphe+, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced +on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc +d'Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58 +ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the +battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar +statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz. +Over the arch is the inscription-- "_A la République_." From the arch a +steep street, the R. d'Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at the +N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, "pour perpetuer le souvenir de sa +charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola Marseille" in +1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 113) +and the Alcazar Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant. + +[Headnote: BOURSE.] + +The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and farther +S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours are, to +the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the R. Noailles, the two +best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port end of the former is the ++Bourse+ (marked 10 in the plan), a parallelogramic building, 154 feet +broad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 +feet by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule are +allegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief +representing Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of the +world. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the +Opera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The +Palais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment +and peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, +Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the "Salle des Pas-Perdus," is surrounded +by 16 columns of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the +Renaissance style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues +and bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier +d'honneur, communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with +mural paintings. + +From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of +Notre Dame de +la Garde+, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object in +Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right by the Cours +Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de Colline, and +then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On descending be +careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar under a canopy +on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length of the Plateau de la +Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain to the +terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The church is +shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can always +be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a gilded image +of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. The +view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the whole of +Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft.; to +the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it Mont +Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau and +Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is the +little island of If (p. 118). Off Cape Croisette are the islands of +Maïre and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de l'Oriol) +leads to the Corniche. + + +NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE. + +Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an +upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The +interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters +and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar +in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is +about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and +made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the +face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14 +lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of +silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and +with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous +interposition was displayed. + +[Headnote: LYCÉE.] + +From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets ramify, +such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the Cours +Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the +Lycée+ or head grammar-school, +and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et l'École des +Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard du +Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor are the +class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection of +medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the medals +are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. and +1300 manuscripts. + +[Headnote: SAINT VICTOR.] + +At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and the +Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles, ++Saint Victor+, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteries +in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of the +church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victor +resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouth +square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been added by Pope +Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door under +these towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. The +upper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th cent. Near the +sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the original +church, a large and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient part +is the small chapel shut off from the rest, with several tombs hewn in +the rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to the +tradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died at +Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is marred by a modern +altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it is said, by Puget. The shaft +of one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces of +ornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, and +remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of a +miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved by +Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is called Notre Dame +de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries from +the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have been +removed to the museum in the Château Borély (p. 113). At the foot of the +eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin +de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes to +the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is Saint +Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent. + +[Headnote: ISLAND OF IF.] + +_Excursions._--The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the +Island +of If+, with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state +prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port. +They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the price +before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whence +a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the entrance +to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. A man conducts +visitors over the castle, of which the most interesting parts are the +cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he was thrown over into the +sea. + +Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by rail (see map on p. 66). At +Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port +Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the canal to Arles (see p. 76). +After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is L'Estaque +(see p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot of a +wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to the +station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main line, and the +Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaits +passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains +of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated from +Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignane +station arrives at the station for Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the +hills. + +[Headnote: MARTIGUES. INDUSTRIES.] + ++Les Martigues+, pop. 10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du +Cours, and omnibus for Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of +the outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all +connected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large part +of the town are on the E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of +the 3 islets are the Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the +middle one is the Hôtel de Ville; and on the third and largest are the +hospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. side +of the canal is the part of the town called Ferrières, containing the +harbour and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the +principal industry of the inhabitants. + +There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The infirmary +(Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750 +patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains generally from +600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is the +Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds. + +The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories, +with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at +£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and +chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000 +tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ +2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated +acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at +£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of ore, +imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnaces +of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards, +together with other private companies, have large workshops for the +construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch of +iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is a +great centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore; 16,000 tons of +lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually. + +[Headnote: COMMERCE. HISTORY.] + +_Commerce._--The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from the +Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but the one of greatest value, raw silk, +£4,000,000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and +Japan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. +The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cotton +fabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits; those of greatest bulk are +cereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes, +manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal. + +_History._--The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was +founded by the enterprising mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600 +B.C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it was +repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In +1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic, +governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the remainder of the +Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher town was +governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette. +The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of St. Victor, and owned +the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between the +two, retained the old harbour, and was the most powerful of the three +divisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity to +Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence. Louis XIV. came in +person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He took +the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseilles +repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an epidemic raged from May 1720 +to May 1721 with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find a +parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalised +themselves by their courage and devotion. + +During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristocracy, +who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror they +rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by General +Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to their +maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against +Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a +considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the +Suez Canal. + +[Headnote: THE MARSEILLAISE.] + +_The Marseillaise._--The famous anthem called "The Marseillaise" was +composed by Joseph Rouget de l'Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the +10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6¼ m. +S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792, +the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich, +the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and during +dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to compose a +war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to his +room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. In +the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: "_Tenez, voilá ce +que vous m'avez demandé, mais j'ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop bon._" +"_Que dites vous mon ami?_" said Dietrich, after casting his eye over +the MS.; "_vous avez fait un chef-d'oeuvre._" The mayor's wife having +tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the theatre were engaged to +perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was the +enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off with nearly 1000 +instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air "Le Chant de +guerre de l'armée du Rhin." In July of the same year a detachment of +volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, and +as they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march and +in the capital it received the name of the "Hymne des Marseillais." +Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June +1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of the +monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins. + + + + +MARSEILLES TO MENTON. + +BY HYÈRES, CANNES, NICE, AND MONACO. 155 MILES. + +See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185. + + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to MENTON + +{ }{155} ++MARSEILLES.+ See under "Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton" in the +"Indicateur." The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon, +traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by +mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream +Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles +canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the +chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all situated +at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October, +a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineral +baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by omnibus from Marseilles. The +bathing establishment is about ¼ m. from the village, in an undulating +hollow, among plane trees, olives, and vines. The water is cold, and +contains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is very +effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the liver. The establishment is +quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to 9 frs. per day. + +10½ m. from Marseilles is +Aubagne+, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus +daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at +Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with coal-mines +and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail. + +After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, if +a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant fishing +village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole +(to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille (to the +east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension Liautaud. An +omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. A very pretty path, +passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on the +sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6½ m. east by this road, and +23 m. from Marseilles by rail. The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from +the town, but an omnibus awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l'Univers, at +the head of a well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong +stone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curious +promontory, the Bec de l'Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of +three lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the +point is the small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing +is carried on in +La Ciotat+; but the main business of the place is +derived from the great shipbuilding yards of the Messageries Maritimes, +which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town. + + [Map: Marseilles to Cannes] + +4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village of +St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for Bandol, +a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. The +industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on the +plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills. + +36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where +omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on the +Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; situated a +short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestone +cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to each other as to +form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard de +Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and Bandol is the +culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent all +over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. Yellow is the +natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached. +They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemons +grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place of +Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset, +pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France. + +[Headnote: LA SEYNE. SIX FOURS.] + +38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is +La Seyne+ +station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de +la Méditerranée, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which +two ports there is constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is +the office of the omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot +of Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus +returns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La +Seyne, from which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the +new fort and what remains of the ancient village of +Six Fours+, once a +town of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has been +cleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, which +occupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, of +which the earliest part, 6th cent., is at the entrance extending east +and west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand are +two stone altars (6th cent.), with windows behind them to give light to +the officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to the +audience. The nave, extending N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It +contains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. +Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the "Annales +de Six Fours," the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brother +Lazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt +of St. Maximin (p. 143). + + +TOULON. + +42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from +Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from Cannes, 98½ m. +S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is +Toulon+, pop. 71,000 +(see maps, pp. 123 and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the Grand +Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and near the post, +the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre; in +the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an office where carriages can +be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. From this "Place" start +the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the road; also omnibuses for +Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountain +in the centre of the "Place" are by Puget. In the Place d'Armes is the +H. Place d'Armes, fronting the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band +plays on Sundays. + +The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, La +Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières, +Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start +from the Place d'Italie at the east end of Toulon. In this "Place" are +the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places +see maps, pp. 123 and 129.) In the Place Puget are several cheap +restaurants. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port. + +[Headnote: THE QUAI DU PORT.] + ++The Quai du Port.+--The bronze statue on this quay, representing +Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front +of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint +Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d'Hyères. More to the right is the +berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk of +the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping planks. This +was the vessel in which Napoleon's body was brought from St. Helena and +deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. The +Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of the +expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, with +whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and +Marchand the Emperor's valet, all the latest and most devoted of +Napoleon's adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, when +the body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that same +day the remains were embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the +18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where +the body was transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it +up the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent +car. + +[Headnote: CAB FARES. THE ARSENALS.] + +_Cab fares._--The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs. + +The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising gradually +from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west, +and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on either +side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix and +large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and immediately +behind it Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and +behind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort; +while from the water's edge at the west end of the port rises Fort +Malbousquet. Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the +last held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and +most secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port +Marchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. +Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, +all communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by +well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the +arsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on a +scale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and +employing above 10,000 men. Near the west end of the Port a large +gateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the "Arsenal +Maritime," covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100 +forge fires, two covered building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an +armoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by +Puget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles +along the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and +ship-equipment departments. + +Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and +sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the +characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound, +from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where +gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The +most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf +fronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above the +horizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it is +crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, unfortunately, are +poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafés and +restaurants, and booksellers' shops where plans of the town and +neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November +1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human life +recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad with +vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing even +those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidst +the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploring +cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarking +some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius the +discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to the +utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage. + +[Headnote: TOWN HALL.] + +Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the +Town Hall+, +adorned with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the +statue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is +the corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of +nearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the +smallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the large +four, the windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in +couples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under +the eaves a projecting dentil cornice. + +The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is the +Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immense +lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round to +the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit, +flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow +five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls +fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.) +At the Port end of the street is the "Place," whence the omnibus starts +for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior +contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to +the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and Marguerite +Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Mary +announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the "conceived +without sin." + +[Headnote: SAINTE-MARIE-MAJEURE.] + +The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between +houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of +Sainte-Marie-Majeure+, +commenced in the 11th cent., and finished in the 18th. The exterior is +unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entrance +is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel to +the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacle +and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have executed +also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing the +apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the arch of the +chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova. +Several very good pictures adorn the church. + +[Headnote: ST. MANDRIER. MONT FARON.] + +All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are +those which cross to La Seyne (p. 123). The steamers for the Iles +d'Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from this wharf. The St. +Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first at +Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to the +north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easily +recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situated +towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of Fort +Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty villas +in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamaris +rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent +carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of +the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier, +and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the +roads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At +the landing-place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. +Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. +Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments of +this kind in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a +handsome chapel, and a great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. +Adjoining is a large and well-sheltered garden with orange trees. +Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d'Armes, is the +Hôpital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, +it is hardly sufficiently ventilated. + +One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet +above the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take +the broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the +railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the +town by the Port of Ste. Anne--the name is on the gateway. From this the +real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent and +continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town and +the bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to the +left goes to the barracks and to the top. The nearly level road to the +right goes to Fort Faron, and the steep road to the left to Fort de la +Croix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette +side of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, from +which rise knolls of various elevations. It can be done in a carriage. + +[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN.] + +_Toulon Omnibuses._--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are +to +Hyères+ (p. 133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a +stream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S. +side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 +ft. high. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The road +eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road +northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence +commanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +La +Valette+, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by +the omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writing +the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been +done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305 +ft., in about 2½ hours. "From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all +directions. I have sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many, +but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet bold +indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon." --_George Sand._ A +carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a +few feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and the +best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite +the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the +way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves. + +The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, +eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste. +Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the +Place d'Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of it +is seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. +Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east +of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses, +with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope +of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable +village a little to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned +with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At +Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke. + + [Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyères] + +[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER.] + +The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E., behind +Fort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours +Lafayette. + +_Diligence Drives._--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19¼ m. N. by diligence from +the Place d'Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see map, p. 117). + + The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and + Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and + 10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The + diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from + Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the + same way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the + beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau + between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are + covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and + vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the + valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 + ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from + Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the + Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is + indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the + olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the + flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best headquarters in the + valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent of the + Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E. + from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp, + 5 m. S. from Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway + station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map, + p. 123). + +[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX.] + + The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking + the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are + the words "Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge + of sinners, pray for us." On the fourth side "June 1870." Eastward is + a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the + eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. + Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the + elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 + ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of + various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and + most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively + stony. + + Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian + Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. + above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a + bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road + divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The + building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only + about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very + large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at + the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased, + along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars + from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The + Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their + rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same + room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have + each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps + and feeds by himself. Both affirm: "Nous ne permettons jamais aux + femmes d'entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, + ni le prophète, ni le juge, ni l'hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même + le premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n'ont pu échapper aux caresses + ou aux tromperies des femmes." A nearer but very stony path, + commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the + convent. + + Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by + Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the + Toulon coach to Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is + monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to + Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.) + +[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIÈRES.] + + +Toulon to Collobrières.+--From the Place d'Italie a coach starts + daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E. by E., passing through La Valette + 3¼ m., La Garde with its castle 5 m., and +La Crau+ 7½ m. _Inn:_ H. de + France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few + yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of + this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyères and La + Crau. + + From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from Toulon, + where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher + than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrières, + up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ frs.; time, 4½ + hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence at La Crau, + where it arrives about 4 P.M.; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station, + and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for + Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p. 142). + + From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or + less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat + fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is + crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to + Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the + Real-Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop. + 4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with + narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing + view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley + of the Réal-Collobrier to +Collobrières+, pop. 3600, on an eminence + rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence + office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal + street, near the Post and the Hôtel de Ville with the promenade. From + the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an + excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields + and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the + mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very + old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are + forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the + exportation of chestnuts form the principal industries. The wine, when + four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it + is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured. + + A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to + Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and + Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is + the chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea. + + +[Headnote: ISLES D'OR. PORQUEROLLES.] + ++The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d'Or.+ + + Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare + 2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back + to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins + of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros. + + The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck + of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the + massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to + the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La + Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and + southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital + of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards + seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles + the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of + Giens (see p. 140, and map, p. 123). + + Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of + 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern + coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it + terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The + vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the + mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards + and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained + from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants + are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium + minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, + Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus + olbiensis. + + The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. + side of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins. + The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor + alongside. In the "Place," quite close to the pier, are the church, + the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the + two inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above + the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small + buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison. + + There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. coast + westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N. + coast eastward the +Chemin des Mèdes+, and the road up the centre of + the island, from N. to S., the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road + commences at the N.W. corner of the "Place" and terminates at the + lighthouse on Cap d'Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 + ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 + steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light. + + The first road right from the N.W. corner of the "Place" is the Chemin + du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively + open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to + the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most + ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed + soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, + a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea. + + The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the + most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it + passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose + summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, + commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the + other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast + to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road + right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement + looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a + farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the + continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the + N. of a hill 449 ft. high. + +[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT.] + + +Port-Cros.+--11½ m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of + Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the + island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the + pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by + the church and the proprietor's house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end + of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose + culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2½ m. + from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres. + The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and + quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth + beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times. + + About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more + sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to + S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres + Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea. + Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound. + + ++Toulon to Hyères.+ + + +Toulon to Hyères.+--Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, 11 m. E., can go + either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place + Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they + should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise + they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line + commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail from Toulon. + + +[Headnote: HOTELS.] + +HYÈRES, + +pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the +nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as +Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but +none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety +of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches. +The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is ¾ m. +S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage. + +_Hotels._--At the west of the town are the Hôtel des Palmiers, below the +Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d'Or, with garden off the main road; the +H. Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d'Or. These three are +first-class houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs., including +bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea in +the morning. Next the Iles d'Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the +main street are the Ambassadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12 +frs., frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At the +east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On +opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house, +the H. Iles d'Hyères, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, is +the Méditerranée, third-class. The principal hotel on the east side of +Hyères is the H. Orient, 10 to 13 frs., a comfortable and +old-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, and +off the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. +Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13 +frs., in a sunny situation. About 1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the +Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmest +and most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel +and Pension de l'Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs., retired and comfortable, and +frequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest of +pines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with those +of Hyères. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning, +and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnished +apartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French and +an English bank. Both exchange money. In the same "Place" is the Temple +Protestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal +chapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west +end of the town. + +There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, which +take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations on +the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or "cercles" have large +gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo. + +_Cab fares._--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2 +horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs. + +[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES.] + +_Drives._--A 3 to 4 hours' drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to +8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised +tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand. +The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the +Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La +Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley +of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day's excursion, is to +the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont +(a railway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For +description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back. +The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brégançon, 16 +miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the +eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St. +Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) amidst large olive +trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La +Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château de Bormettes, built +by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). A little farther east, on the +Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon; +and, on the western point of Cap Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles +west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to +Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that +ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the +Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes +by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive +trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides +these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken +in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the +Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as +some parts of the roads are not good. + +_Coaches._--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for +Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., for La Crau 4½ m. +N. (see p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails to +St. Raphael. Near the "Place," opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var, +start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see +maps, pp. 123 and 129). + +[Headnote: MASSILLON.] + ++Hyères proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the +south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter +stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far +outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town +and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the +land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east +winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or +north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the +principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops +and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of +which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the +Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte +Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principal +gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R. Portalet leads +directly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, a bust +of Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de +Ville. Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the +left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the +house, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of +France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared +sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to +the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on +Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- "Father, +I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but +whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself." The language of +Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just, +without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in +the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii. +14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from +their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopoeia, which still +astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article +"Eloquence" in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting "_la figure +la plus hardie, et l'un des plus beaux traits d'éloquence qu'on puisse +lire chez les anciens et les modernes_." His father, who spelt his name +Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son +in the same house from 1647 to 1834. + +[Headnote: ST. PAUL.] + +Above the "Place" is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace +commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar +represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to +the church is an ancient baptismal font. + +[Headnote: ST. LOUIS.] + +At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, is +the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style +and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The +quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The +pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance +and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies. +The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall. +Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture +representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3 +children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of +July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in +the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis +about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this +square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou and +Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In +1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which +event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to +the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he +dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the +western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in +1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, +and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place +des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous +nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the +"Jardin d'Acclimatation," where animals, birds, and plants are reared +for the Jardin d'Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These +gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, +and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public. + +[Headnote: COSTEBELLE.] + +From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the +Costebelle, about 2½ m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the +Montagnes des Oiseaux. + The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in + little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern + end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the + chapel of Notre Dame d'Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are + lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western + side are old olive trees. + + +[Headnote: CHÂTEAU.] + +THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES. + +On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Château of +Hyères+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of +acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hôtel +de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as +the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The +castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the +7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called +_Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, "air-castle." Considerable portions of the +walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most +perfect part being on the western side, above the Hôtel des Iles d'Or. +The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are the +town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards, +towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses, +olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with +generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux +Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, +and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the +peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the +islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. long. +On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the +little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d'Hyères, and the +Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from +Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been +shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain, +are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. +Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure +mountains and the Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this +fort, northwards by the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and +Léoubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, +crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123 +and 129.) + +[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET.] + +Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group, +the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the western +extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at +the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on +which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the execution of +malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the east +end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is a +favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from the +castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet. + ++Excursion to Mont Fenouillet.+--Behind the castle ramify three paths. +The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the +Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left, +called the "Chemin St. Bernard," leads down to the west end of Hyères, +near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt. +Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some +fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutus +unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt. +Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of +the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited +by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3 Mai 1877), +there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down +to the road between Hyères and Toulon. + +[Headnote: THE TROU DES FÉES.] + ++Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux.+--The best way is to take the +path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending +by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places +it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus +coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on +the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyères +on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other. + ++The Trou des Fées.+--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E. +side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The +entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, +covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it +lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path +leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down +by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle +road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The +other source is in the plain, on the road "du Père-Eternel," nearly 2 m. +S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. This +water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E., through the +gravelly soil of the plain. + +To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and +confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble +in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the +lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound +heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the "chasseurs" at +such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the +swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure +mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the +walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian. + +[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING.] + + The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the + Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences + in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a + curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees + become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state, + and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12° + Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The + cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the + trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each + of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now + trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime + and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork + oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive + member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an + important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has + become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time, + but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the + bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making + two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite + sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of + June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce + fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which + formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually + leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of + the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL + CATERPILLAR. PIPES.] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx + processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine + trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a + soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting + them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not + endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the + nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision. + On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the + Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are + made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris + manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages. + In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption + of the French word _bruyère_, signifying heath. + + The "specialité" of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, + and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries, + peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain + between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The + gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the + surface, there is always abundance of water. + +[Headnote: BUTTERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYÈRES.] + + "About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the + Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus + Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the + beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most + abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and + September, many of the latter generation living through the winter. + Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de + Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in + April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce + Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, + the A. Niobe, the A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge + Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the S. + Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and + the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer." + --_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyères._ + + +Climate.+--Hyères is especially fitted for old people and young + children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be + strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming + to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the + cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyères is + not suited. "The chief attractions of Hyères are its climate and the + beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter + abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated + movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who + are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the + plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the + most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the + more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed." --_Dr. + Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., and the average + annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every + winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore + the chances are that the traveller's experience will not agree with + the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate + of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice; + and, "generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young + persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, + either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage + of that disease." + + +[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHÂTEAU.] + +THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS. + + The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m. + south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La + Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p. 129). + + 8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for + La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and + a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every + afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach + adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. + At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land + which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The + large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the + Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite + (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and + sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by + the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south + end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt + is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, + and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of + houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the + way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is + by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le + Château+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare + plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at + Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks. + + From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of + La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of + mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a + house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to + the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, + 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys + covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles + can be had on the isthmus. + + After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing + station of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at + +[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA.] + + +Les Salins+, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus + from Hyères to Salins stops at the small "Place" opposite the pier. + Fare, ½ fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between + vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little + harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships + anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs + for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These + reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually + 20,000 tons of the value of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is + much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, + but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p. 129). + + +Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After + having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the + commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the + peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the + almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some + fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the + Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high + road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the + little port is about ½ m. distant by nearly a straight road + southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d'Italie halts at the + port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to + the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are + the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be + conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley + between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest + strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It + is 3½° warmer than Hyères. + +[Headnote: BORMES.] + + +Coach to Bormes+, 14½ m. E. from Hyères. The coach, after passing the + ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La + Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides + of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou + road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood + of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group + of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape + Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In the Place de la République or St. + François is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At + the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the + new cemetery on the road to Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side + of the "Place" is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the + ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. + Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six + small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding, + especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and + mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less + than an hour's easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous + fishing village on the coast road from Brégançon to St. Tropez. + Savoury "langousts" or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map, + p. 123). + + +{49}{106} ++LA PAULINE+, a few houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont +Coudon. Junction with line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have +missed the train for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café +below. From La Pauline the train arrives at +Solliès-Pont+, pop. 3000; +_Inns:_ Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on +a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, +almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the +side of the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for ++Collobrières+ (see p. 130). + + +[Headnote: CARNOULES.] + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to MENTON + +{63½}{91½} ++CARNOULES.+ _Inn:_ H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. +N.W., on the line between Marseilles and Aix. + + +[Headnote: GARDANNE. BARJOLS.] + ++Gardanne to Carnoules.+ + +Gardanne, pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from +Marseilles and 7 m. S. from Aix (see p. 77). On this line, 16 m. N.W. +from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, on +the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d'Argent; Provence. This rather dirty +town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees, +has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are first +carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed. +They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, 13th cent., is +in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse, +was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the Sous +Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In +the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments. +Diligence daily to +Barjols+, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont d'Or; +situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p. 167). +Diligence also to Toulon by Meounes (see p. 129). + +[Headnote: ST. MAXIMIN.] + +On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is +St. Maximin+, 1043 ft. +above the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of this +ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards the end of +the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. It +has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft. high, and the +aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The width of the +church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interior +of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on each +side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and fine-toned +organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playing +upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen of +the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Few +parts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty, +elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a Flemish monk, Frère +Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearing +within a wreath a representation in relief of one of the incidents in +the life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Under +them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the rood-loft, and at the +other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by one +door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes. +To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble, +representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and on the other side, in +terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in the +crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N. +aisle consists of a painting on wood by an Italian artist in 1520. In +the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paintings on +panels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is an +Entombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in the +same style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, and +St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancient +iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance into +the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th cents. The sculpture above the +sound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascension +of Mary Magdalene. The undulating fluting on the panels and the +sculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair down to +the crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed a +consecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body was afterwards put +into the elaborately-carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of +the altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the +Innocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite +Mary's is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then +follow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella +(Mary's maid) and St. Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been +rifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the +skull of Mary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one +of her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p. 123.) [Headnote: MONT +BRETAGNE. TRETS.] The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is +said to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque +mountains, partly in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, of +which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it, +coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, 5 +hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285 +ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map, p. 123.) 12 m. W. from St. +Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200; _Inn:_ France; +a dirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers. +In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but they are small and unimportant. + + +{75¼}{79¾} ++LE LUC+ station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse. +Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Maure +mountains to St. Tropez, 26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. +Fare, 5 frs. Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the +station, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, +chestnuts, and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and +12 m. from Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where +the horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of +the strongholds of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is, +on an eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded +streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The +massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the +top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and +occupied till the middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, +and 25½ E. from Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated +on an eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from +which they were driven (p. 187), and all the fortifications destroyed +excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. By the roadside, about +half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a very large fir tree. 32 m. +N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc station is + ++St. Tropez+, pop. 3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms, +at the head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the +bay. The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is +in the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast +of the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall +slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no +apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the +high altar, one of the two usually being to "Maria sine labe concepta." +Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the +hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour, +opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of +the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in +Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The +promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins +of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St. +Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to +Hyères, 32½ m. W. + + +[Headnote: DRAGUIGNAN. LORGUES.] + +{84½}{70½} ++LES ARCS+, pop. 1200, H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to +Draguignan+ +on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. _Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. +From the side of the H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, +on the Bresque. _Inn:_ H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see map, +p. 123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to Aups, pop. 2350, on the +Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N. from Salernes. _Inn:_ +Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence to Manosque by Riez (see +p. 166). Also diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see p. 143). From +Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, pop. 1000, situated +half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ Bonne +Foy; 6 m. W. + +Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, which +attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the clock-tower, 58 +ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and of the +surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and +intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteen +rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardin +des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancient +gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principal +products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large dolmen +composed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slab +is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others are each 7 ft. high, +excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced. +Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, a splendid +specimen of a "micocoulier" (_Celtis australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft. +high, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend +the street, and take the first road left. When within a few yards of the +kilomètre stone, indicating 1 kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, +take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation +(see map, p. 123). + + +[Headnote: FREJUS. COLOSSEUM.] + +{98}{57} ++FREJUS+, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at +the S.W. extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m. +from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the "Route de Paris en +Italie," which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their +highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm +of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of +the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre +green pines which clothe these mountains. + +To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Porte +de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the greatest diameter +was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 spectators. On the +eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and the terrace called +the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a Roman lighthouse. At +this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughout +is admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. The Porte +Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. Having visited the ruins +by the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave the town by +a road having on the left hand a large building--the seminary. Having +walked a few paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly square +tower, which marks the site of the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in +this neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought +water to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained +87 arches. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) +powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part +of the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining "éveché," +belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. In +the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and well-executed +caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and glimpses of the +Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The Phoenician +merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum Julii or +Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or Agde. +Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus. + + [Map: The Estérel Mountains with Frejus and St. Raphaël to Cannes] + +[Headnote: SAINT RAPHAEL.] + +{100½}{54½} ++SAINT RAPHAEL+, a rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In +winter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and +in summer from the hot interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the +still more refreshing sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the +France, 8 to 9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an +eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to 13 +frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the cottage +built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. Little +steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p. 134). +Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H. +de Valescure. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a +salubrious and agreeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by the +beach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Estérel mountains, where +the rambles are endless. At the E. end of St. Raphael is a very pleasant +park, rising from the rocks on the coast. A little farther towards +Cannes is the Boulerie, with a large hotel. + +Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and +here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast +are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_. + + +[Headnote: AGAY. SAINTE BAUME.] + +{105}{50} ++AGAY+, a small custom-house station, with a few houses at the head of a +small but deep bay, into which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top +of the conical hill, on the S.W. side of the station, is the +Tour de +Darmont+, a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte +Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape Roux, +1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to the +old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railway +to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards to +the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into the valley in +an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of Cape Roux till +a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway will be seen going +upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge is reached, close to +the summit, where is a splendid view to the east and west and +north-west; then take to the left, and in a few hundred yards a +platform, with a spout of running water and a couple of abandoned +buildings, is reached. Distance about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above +this, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St. +Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit's life for +some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from the +hermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the way +remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone pillar, a Roman milestone, +with an inscription. Some archæologists base upon the existence of this +stone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At the +bottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay. + +[Headnote: LE TRAYAS.] + +After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a +magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +Le +Trayas+, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from +St. Raphael, 6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas +also a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered +nearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train +passes from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes +Maritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having +passed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the +beautifully-situated town of Cannes. + + [Map: Cannes] + + +[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.] + +CANNES, + +on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E. from +Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from Nice. Fixed +population, 19,400. +Hotels and Pensions.+--Although there are already +very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas there +are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to +resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the +1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200, +including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens +attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett, +agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a +well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the +public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25 +frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair +gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per +day. + +Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels +and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir, +8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d'Alsace, near railway station. In the +Boulevard Cannet, Pension d'Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther +up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity +Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden +fronting the promenade. + +Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the hotels, +1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr. + +The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the sea, +is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable to +produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore +many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ fronting +station, the Négociants; the [1]*Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the Allées, on +the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. d'Antibes, +the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the H. Russie, 9 to +12 frs. + + [Footnote 1: The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name + of hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class.] + +_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking them in +the order from west to east:--The National, 9 to 15 frs.; Midi, 8 to 12 +frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; the last four +are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The H. Suisse; +Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to 12 frs. Behind +the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi, in the R. Bossu, No. +8, the Post and Telegraph Offices. + +On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre; +H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix. +A little way hack are the Pension d'Angleterre; H. de France; H. +Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs. + +Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels +Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie; +Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de Californie is +the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28th +March 1884. + +In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet, +are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all with +gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day. + +At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension +Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. A little +higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence a +road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a first-class house, +on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it is +the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on the +Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs. + +On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is +the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the +H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach, +and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10 +frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is the +H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ Church, and on an +eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., a large house with +garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences, +are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa; +and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord Brougham's villa. Farther +west, and on the same level, is the H. Estérel, same price. On a hill, +a little beyond the perfume distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la +Tour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is +called La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. +From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are +fields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the +perfumeries (see page 161). + +[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS.] + +_Churches._--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul's, Boulevard du +Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique. +Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid +Ladies' Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue +Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet. + +Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the +office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold. + +_Cab Fares._--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the hour, 2½ +frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, 3½ frs. +Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for +Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and +St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Saturdays +trips to Theoule, 2 frs. + +[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM.] + +Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and +partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and +gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it +extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills, +and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square, +called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at +the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110 +wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between them +is a marble statue, life-size, "A Lord Brougham, né à Edinburgh, le 19 +Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868." He is in his official +robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose. +The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and interesting +collections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The +obliging director gives every assistance in naming the plants, insects, +and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the adjoining eminence, +is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church of +Notre-Dame-d'Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In +front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St. +Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower +commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery of St. +Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower +is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new +cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The +monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing +the following inscription:-- "HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII. +Decessit MDCCCLXVIII." Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose, +K.T., died December 1874. + +_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nooks +sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on +leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The +mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy days in +the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice. +"The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its +equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties of +the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic +temperaments." --Madden's _Resorts_. "While Cannes, therefore, possesses +a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many +classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating +atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those +suffering from affections of the respiratory organs." --_Dr. Hassall._ + +[Headnote: DRIVES.] + +_Drives._--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in +carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their +destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allées de la +Liberté), or from the Rue d'Antibes, near the Cours. The largest livery +stables are in the Rue d'Antibes. They charge for a carriage, with +coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen carry their tariffs +with them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the +"Tarif des Voitures" are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on the +Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of +3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare. + + +[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS.] + +THE CORNICHE OF CANNES. + +The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe de +Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., and 250 ft. +above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. S.W. by the +Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one +horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. By taking +the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walk +along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below +Massier's pottery, and ascend the broad road. About ½ m. from the bridge +is the "Observatoire de la Corniche," where tea and coffee can be had, +and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera. +About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S.W. +end of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden. + +The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545 +ft. above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, +1 fr. each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which +supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, by +which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotel +on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal commences near the +source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. Cesaire. + +From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still higher +summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère. The view +is similar, including more of the interior. A short distance N.E. from +this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which from the top looks +as if it were nearly over Antibes. + +Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from +Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de +Jouan station is C. Massier's pottery, and a few yards along the road +towards Antibes is Napoleon's column (p. 169). + +[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES.] + ++Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and +restaurants. The omnibus stops in the "Place" opposite the church and +the Hôtel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an +inscription, stating that "the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it +refers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority." Also a column, +4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to +Constantine. + Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery, + "Potteries Réfractaires," earthenware utensils, principally of the + "marmite" or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without + cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To + this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic + pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in + the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the + clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards + from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene + period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the + road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up + road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The + entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into + them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in + various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common + articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from + Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic + pottery. + + ++Vallauris to Antibes.+ + + The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to + Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo + pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come + to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The + road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a + bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans + to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and 169.) + + +CANNET. + +Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is ++Cannet+, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H. +*Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste. +Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs. +Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the +accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of +those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church +is the "Place," commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab to +Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs. + +[Headnote: LA CROISETTE.] + +Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by the +beautiful road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½ +fr., or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous. +Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive +by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the +entrance to the orange orchard "Des Hesperides," occupying 4 acres. The +trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they +were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost +about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are +those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process, +and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there +is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications +begun by Richelieu, but never completed. + + _Cannes to the Cap d'Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, + 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs. + Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts + from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the "Place," fare + 1 fr. Very near this "Place" are two comfortable inns, the H. + Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d'Or; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their + omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a + little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also + built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side of the entrance. + From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the + pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the + fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St. + Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In + the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in + winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them + stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other + forms part of an adjoining building, the "Bureau du Recrutement." + + [Map: Cannes & Environs] + +[Headnote: CAP D'ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE.] + + The +Cap d'Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To + visit the "Cap" from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the + Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take + the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. + Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a "Via + Crucis," bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group + representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. + d'Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the + oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the + lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the sea. The + building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a + fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one + person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the + road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class house, + 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are + now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical + trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into + France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For + Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on a rock to the W., + overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine. + +[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE.] + + +Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.+--_La Croix des Gardes_, + 2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from + the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises + from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the + side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the + _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is + distilled. + + _Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; + with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour's rest allowed. By omnibus, + 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds + with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c.; which, as it does not return till + 4.30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2 m. W. The + Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the + English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little Scotch church, behind + which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is + Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. A short distance + beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Eléonore-Louise, + where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the + garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the + side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with + pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor + little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is + held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in + Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the + side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From + it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, + leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at + the foot of the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better + than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the + railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the + mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas. + +[Headnote: ESTÉREL. PÉGOMAS.] + + _Cannes to the Inn of Estérel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea. + Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18 + frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca + and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right + or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265 + ft., a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. + Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. + above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road + amidst picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The + inn is situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan + Pinet, 876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. + above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near + the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about + 1¼ m. west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost + immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point + also. + + 7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the + Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of +Pégomas+, pop. + 1350, on the Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden + among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but + difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or + 16 frs.; 1 hour's rest. + + About 3 m. N.W. is +Auribeau+, pop. 480, prettily situated on the + Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours' rest. + +[Headnote: MOUGINS. CASTELARAS.] + + 4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is +Mougins+, + pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, passing by the cemetery and + traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no + farther than Les Baraques, about ¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab + there and back, one horse, 12 frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour's + rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one + gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of + the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower, + ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful view. To the west is La Roquette, + N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and + on the border of the Estérels, is the village of Mandelieu. + + 4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by + the new road, is +Castelaras+, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a + villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view + of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to + the north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, + and the Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to + the south. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take + the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the + steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse + and tower are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The + column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse + in 1883. + + _Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer + makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste. + Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the + steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle. + + +ILES DE LERINS. + +The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m. from the +mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at Point +Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, containing the +apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the far more +interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was closely +guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the only +communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into the +house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a road, +bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the pine +plantation to the other side of the island. + +[Headnote: THE MAN OF THE IRON MASK.] + +The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli, +a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the +13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti, +by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has long +since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in the +University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service of +Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made Secretary of +State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand Charles IV., the last +sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, created Matthioli +supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the title of Count. +Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d'Estrades, ambassador from France to +the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was well aware +would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his master, +Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand Charles +to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale, +a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The +cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus, +Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont, +while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and +fertile plains of Milan. + +The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the +prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication +between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the +person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke's confidence and favour, and +was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the +schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French +court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., who at the same +time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly after +Matthioli's return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over by the +Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so +exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé +Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards. + For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond + Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé, + accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach + of international law required the adoption of extraordinary + precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang, + he was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled + armed attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made + any attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself. + + By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in + prison, till orders came from Paris, stating-- "It is not the + intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well + treated, nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life, + nor anything to make his time pass agreeably." He was handed over to + the charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence + in 1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars + removed his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste. + Marguerite, where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of + twelve days. + + Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years' + sojourn on the island are:--On one occasion he is alleged to have + written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the + window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, on + finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion + Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing, + which he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk, + who, when he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not + read it. Two days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of + these stories is to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the + Minister, dated 4th June 1692, in which he informs him that he has + been obliged to inflict corporeal punishment upon a Protestant + clergyman named Salves, also in his keeping, because he would write + things on his pewter vessels and linen, to make known that he was + imprisoned unjustly on account of the purity of his faith. + + In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place + St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September + 1698. + + On the 19th November 1703, about 10 P.M., Matthioli died in the + Bastile, after a few hours' illness, and was buried next day at 4 P.M. + in the cemetery of St. Paul.--Extracted from the _History of the + Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport. + +[Headnote: THE ISLAND OF ST. HONORAT. ABBEY. MASSACRE.] + + The Island of St. Honorat contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste. + Marguerite, from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of + 2½ m., shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight from + the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only + since 1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410. + In 730 and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the + establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again + flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume + Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the + tower on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. commenced the + castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the + fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on + account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and + buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of + Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of + Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay + brethren. + + "What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what + Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany + and southern Italy, +St. Honorat+ was to the church of southern Gaul. + For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district + between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of + Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the + barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the + Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as + Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the + more illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had + been reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary, + Cæsarius, and Virgilius. + + "The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the + massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on + the little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister. + + "With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing + in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent." --J. R. + Green's _Stray Studies_. + +[Headnote: CASTLE.] + + The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall + rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting + cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a + large hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and + by others a bakery, but most likely a "parloir" or reception-room. In + the wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the + ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took + possession of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown + by the concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong + cloister, in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor + of the first is supported on short columns standing round the edge of + a cistern. From this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and + refectory. From the upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel, + which opened into the library. Above the library was the infirmary, of + which not a vestige remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors + are next taken to the convent. The church and buildings are modern, + excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend much + time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last steamer, + and have consequently little time to spare. + +[Headnote: CHAPEL OF THE TRINITY.] + + By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th + cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the + wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of + St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At + the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel + of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large + gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St. + Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a + stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught + different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to + their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is + the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *+Trinity+, 35 + ft. long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great + corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are + the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why + in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in + edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three + arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of + the three apsidal chapels are semispherical. + +[Headnote: PLAIN OF NAPOLEON.] + + +Cannes to Grasse+, 12½ m. N. by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G. + H. International, 9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le + Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their + omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the + stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the + other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious + water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change + from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, + crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the + southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly + 695 ft. above the town. To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, + 2920 ft. above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of + Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On + the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite + views. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of + Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot + of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the + face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a + cavern or "foux," whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water + issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down + into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther + inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from + the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for + the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of + St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, + built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this + way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, + is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, in which + are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens--the + Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The + concierge uncovers them. [Headnote: JEAN FRAGONARD.] Immediately + below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house + of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean + Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are + five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing + frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue + des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some + decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are + shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church, + built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It + contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of + Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the + east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining + is the Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of + the 11th cent. + + A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal + square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the + sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the + Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it. + + +PERFUMERY. + + The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and + the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces + resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are + the Otto of Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of + rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto + of Roses, which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy + of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which + costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, + is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used + principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it + constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is + that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Néroly + forms the orange-water of the cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is + superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs + are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of + glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the + other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a + layer of lard 1/3 of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs + completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are + renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is + repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles + are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (a kind + of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted + in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which, + combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then + filtered. This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals + require the hot methods, either by the still or by the "bain-marie." + The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most + vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. + Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging + a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is + melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or + 24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The + operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required + strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose + used. + + At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of + *Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved + fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the + glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams + and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the + perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be + made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of + Warwick and Co., and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of + whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material. + +[Headnote: ST. CESAIRE. CANNES CANAL. CALLIAN.] + + _Grasse to St. Cesaire._--9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there + and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little + village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 + feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a + large elm in the "Place" is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la + Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in + the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end + of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence + there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on + its eastern side. The path to the cave "Grotto de la Foux" goes by the + upper side of this canal, and requires 1½ hour's easy walking. The + commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour's walk farther + up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave + with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of + Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or "foux," at the base of a calcareous + cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The + Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31 m. long, exposed to + animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course. + Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which + conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p. 146, and map, p. 117) + by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks, + through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 wide, and 82 high, + in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman + engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from + Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a bridle-path, + _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel + is about 9 m. distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1½ m. from + Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft., supplied + with water by the Roman aqueduct. + + [Map: The Durance, the Var, the Col di Tenda, San Remo] + + Nearly 2 hours' walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and situated + at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of +Mons+. Those + who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor + striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of + the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the + mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return + from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive + back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the + best flavoured of the Riviera. + + ++Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.+ + + +Grasse+ to the railway station of +Cagnes+ by the +Pont du Loup+ and + +Vence+, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This + drive is generally taken in two parts--Grasse to the Pont du Loup; + then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes. + +[Headnote: PONT DU LOUP. TOURETTE.] + + _Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two + horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr. + Distance, 5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the + valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the + Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the + ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, + which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole + way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on + the same level (1090 ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at + every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its + little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long + narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a + rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du + Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church + of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the + Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit + the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the + gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return + to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see + p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive from Grasse + to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very + same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15 m. + eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the + "Imperial." Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway + station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m. + The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the + Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at + the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the + omnibus halts. + +[Headnote: VENCE.] + + +Vence+, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or, pension + 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains + clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and + in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of + its old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.) + next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the + Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in + the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which + there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly + mutilated. + + The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that + of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, + 68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with + massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each + side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof + waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is + in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by + the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and + beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of + the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman + temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other + over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the + temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured + stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the + tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin + inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which + the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was + under the nave. The present "Place" behind the chancel was the public + cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab + bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone + sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked + into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in + the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th + cent. + +[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR.] + + To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, + extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea. + The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the + +Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the + remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the + ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is + by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of + wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the + Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the + Cagnes, a "foux," an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large + basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3½ m. from Vence. + The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most + easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines + of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still + sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and + sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is + famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between + furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d. + the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, + for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. the kilo. + +[Headnote: CAGNES.] + + The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole + way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with + part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. + 1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes. + _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real + town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle + built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner + at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling + of the Salle Dorée, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also + added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are + the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The + chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not + equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see + p. 169.) + + +ST. VALLIER. + + +Grasse to Digne+, 63 m. north.--By the courrier 16 frs., changing + coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles + 4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By + private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day + at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day + breakfasting at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map, + p. 165). + + The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and + rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier + (2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant, + population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand + views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains. + The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the + "Place," near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., indicating + the spot where he reposed "2 Mars 1815." The Hôtel du Nord is about + 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per + day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the + Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The remainder + can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St. + Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-à-Dieu + is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge, + like the "Pont" across the Ardèche. + + From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep + sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, + a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside + inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated + 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse. + A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, + one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from + Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded + mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground. + +[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE.] + + 19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is +Castellane+, + 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village + of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A + narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel + of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect. + Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the + river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here. + A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not + very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather. + 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie + (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches + the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to + +Taulanne+, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends + 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620, + among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the + river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during + 1130 to 1242. + +[Headnote: BARRÈME. DIGNE.] + + 44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is +Barrème+, pop. + 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is + taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in + dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline + spring. The road from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the + valleys of the Asse and the Clumane. + + +Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from + the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from + Marseilles, 62¼ m. N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is + 109½ m. S. from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the + road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to + Gap; and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons + (see map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the + Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), + one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient + Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly + ground rising from the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest + part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the + seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., + numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the + Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, + temp. 115° Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. + Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March + 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of + the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and + both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p. 165). + +[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS.] + + Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is + to +Riez+, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence + centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. + Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, + 22 m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Gréoulx (see + p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare + 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), 9 m. E., by + Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18 m. S., by Quinson. + Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, + H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., _Inn:_ H. du + Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to + Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d'Or, 9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to + Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7½ m. W., whence to Volx + railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25 m. N., + by Puymoisson, 3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on + the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, 7½ m. S. from + Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other + times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are + olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and + cherries (see map, p. 165). + + Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly + surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the + towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through + either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed + windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other + side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, + enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, + bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is + about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 + composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is + the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is + 17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel + are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At + the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of + the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent + view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre. + +[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE.] + + A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious + village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and + returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronné. The village consists of + poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes, + at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the + height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these + precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt + iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the "Via + Crucis," is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the + chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the + parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a + square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez + is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is + Castellane, but no public coach runs between them. + +[Headnote: BATHS OF GRÉOULX.] + + 12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is +Gréoulx+, pop. + 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are + the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than + ½ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The + rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast + and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day, + 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and + furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is + 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most + abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt + new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the + chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, + the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is + also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along + with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when + the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is + used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are + partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of + water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to + Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165). + +[Headnote: MANOSQUE.] + + +Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, + 22 m. north from Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and + 59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. Auban, + 31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. from Aspres, and + 130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and Savoy). + + _Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the + surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste. + Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the + Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive + trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the + eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering + the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and + badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily + recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the + main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are + circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each + side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel + is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably + lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the + façade leads to the principal "Place," where there is a fountain, and + whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre + Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in + the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble + sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, + and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and + child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a + silver bust by Puget of Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the + Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the + stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of + gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the + baths of Gréoulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m. + W., by Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. +Volx+ station is the + intended terminus of the rail from Apt. + + +[Headnote: VALLAURIS.] + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to MENTON + +{124}{31} ++GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station is +a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his +arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined with +villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are +pottery showrooms. + + +[Headnote: ANTIBES.] + +{127}{28} ++ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d'Or. A fortified +port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, +without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable +houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their +valour. Those wishing a bird's-eye view of the town should ascend the +tower beside the church. The bellman's house is close by. The wine of +Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 154). From Antibes station +omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400. + + +{132}{23} ++VENCE-CAGNES.+ At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, +pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and +contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the +same road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several +interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for +perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the +terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice +runs a diligence (see p. 165). + + +{136}{19} ++VAR.+ This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the +eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from +the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or +pépinières, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the +station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The +first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by +the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments. + +At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in +January. + + +NICE + +is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. N.E. +from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. from Cannes. +It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from +Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf). +Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, +mostly covered over, pop. 66,300. + +[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.] + +Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the +order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the +"Jardin Public." Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and +opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of the +cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18 +frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the H. West End, all +first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day. + +The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have +considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the +sea so much. The H. de l'Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11 +frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du +Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the +Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des +Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 frs. + +Around the "Jardin Public" are the first-class houses, the Angleterre +and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in the +Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, and +the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is the +Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the +hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden +in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10 +to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly by +French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs. + +On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and +pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the +railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux +Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs +with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10 +to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At +the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 frs., and the +Hotel des Alpes. + +In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H. Iles +Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and +some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of +the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp, +near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the +H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near +the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 frs. + + [Map: Nice] + +Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et P. de +Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it the +H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St. +Etienne, 8 to 12 frs. + +At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it +the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens. + +Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the +H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine. + +From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the +Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the +Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the +H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the +first-class houses--the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the +Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d'Orient. The large building in +the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal +Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion. + +The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B. Dubouchage, and +about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun +themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the +Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the first-class houses--the +H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence +in a garden off the B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the +B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with +furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church, +and near it the Hôtel Carabacel. + +On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near the +Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the road to +the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès Hill, on +opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P. Cimiès, and the +Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about +2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Massena +has its terminus near the P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own +omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the +P. Anglaise. + +In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and +its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate +prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, in +garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At +No. 121 is the H. de l'Elysée, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. +At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; and opposite, the H. du +Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the +P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. +In the Place Massena the H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial +gentlemen the best is the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs. + +Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the +private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings. +In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where +they can arrange at the prices given:--H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11 +frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H. +des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P. +de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P. +*Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais +the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. André, +8 frs., including everything. In the R. Gioffredo the H. and +R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs. + +[Headnote: CAFÉS. BANKS.] + +_Cafés._--The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._--The *London +House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare, +and at No. 11 Rest. d'Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._--The Cercle de la +Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean. + +_Banks._--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds +of banking business and money changing is the "Credit Lyonnais," 15 +Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena; +Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare. + +_House Agents._--John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C. Jougla, +55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple. + +_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi. +Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time, +the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice +time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000 +volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P.M. It contains a few +antiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust +of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place +Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea. + + _Booksellers._--Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied + reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du + Cours. Cook's office adjoins Galignani's. Gaze's is at No. 13, and + Caygill's No. 15 Avenue de la Gare. + + _Druggists._--Of these there are excellent English establishments in + the principal streets. + +_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._--Of the confections the _specialité_ +of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing +100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most expensive of the +glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3¼ oz.), +strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All the +others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are-- *Caëtan +Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and +*Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel's garden and perfume distillery +are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon. + +[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.] + +_Churches._--Temple Évangélique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian +Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; +German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity +Church, Rue de France; St. Michael's, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel +Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church, +in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide. + +Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly. + +_Coach hire._--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per +month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where +carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month. + +_Cabs._--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and +seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, +2½ frs.; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the +hour, 3½ frs. + +To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats for 4, 1½ +fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c., +and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to +engage the cab by the hour. + +All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena. + +[Headnote: CONTES.] + +_Diligences._--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start +daily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m. +N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see p. 180). Coach to +Puget-Théniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare +2½ frs., time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p. 182). +Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low +Corniche road. From the office, Place St. François, start:--Coach to +Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., +time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N. +from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau +Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, +and 15 m. N. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d'Or, +Rue de l'Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N. +up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of +Trinité--Victor, 5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the +Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the +ruins of the village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of +water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange +trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats +to Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour's rest allowed. + +[Headnote: CLIMATE.] + +_Climate._--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and +Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice a +trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the +mountains. M. Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty +years' meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed +outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His +mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake +of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:-- + + MEAN TEMPERATURE. + + Nice. Cannes. + November 53.8 52.6 + December 48.5 46.3 + January 47.1 48 + February 46.2 48.8 + March 51.8 51 + April 58.1 55.5 + +The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.--_Health +Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D. + +[Headnote: VALLONS.] + +Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime +Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish +conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these +ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides, +scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the +breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the +stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great +vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan +exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram +stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from +the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly +perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the +Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the +more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which +high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to +be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the +more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance +are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made. +The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantéga (see plan), has +great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is +quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed +with lime, makes excellent mortar. + +The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new or +fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing +avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with +large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and +"pensions;" 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty, +steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and +running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it from, 3d, +the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour. + +During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, +with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In +winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it +is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the +largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating +population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled +together between the Paillon and the Château hill. + +[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY.] + +The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English +in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful +terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach of the Baie +des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan, +whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the mouth of the river +Var, near the Racecourse. + +Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the +platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the +peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort +Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. +To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the +distance the Roche-Blanche (p. 164), the peninsula of Antibes, and the +Estérels. This fortress, founded by the early Phoenician colonists, and +destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed +to the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now +it has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains, +over the Hôtel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added +to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill +(see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the +monument to the "Victimes de l'Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881." +Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th +March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. In +the highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. In +a terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery. + +[Headnote: CATERINA SEGURANA. MEMORIAL CHAPEL.] + +Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King +Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane +to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. +On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked +the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon +and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the +standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was +born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port +before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue +Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in +1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No. +15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in +fresco by Carlone. It is now the "École Professionnelle." This is also +the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died +(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of +the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches +in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and +variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de +la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in +Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too +small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost +of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, +in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of +ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which +the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior is +covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue +ground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes +of saints in niches. + +The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the +handsome broad street the "Avenue de la Gare," extending in a straight +line northward from the "Place" to the station. Next in importance are +the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best +shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind +the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision +kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, and +dressmakers. At the east end of the +Rue de France+ is the Croix de +Marbre, a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected +in 1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Francis I., and +Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentates +through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemorates +the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near this is +Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, the +second Protestant church built in Nice. + +[Headnote: ANDRÉ MASSENA.] + +On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the +large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty +public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in +an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of +France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which +stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon +to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned "to +drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea." But the wary +strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved +resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a +masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the +chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but +it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the +river, called the "Jardin Public," planted with magnolias, acacias, +Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays +here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on +the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the +summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery. + +[Headnote: CIMIÈS.] + +All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare +lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice, +and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m. +distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiès (430 ft. above the sea), +another favoured spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids +requiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman +city Cemenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of an +amphitheatre 210 ft. long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince +de Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered in +this neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superb +villa Val Rose, which in shape resembles Noe's ark. Entrance from behind +G. H. Windsor. The first road right from the theatre leads to a +Franciscan convent built in 1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. The +altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were painted +by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only artist of +eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some beautiful +tombstones. In the centre of the "Place," on a spiral marble column, is +a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican feeding its young, +a favourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages. + +A path in the corner of the "Place" leads down to St. Pons (p. 179). + +At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first +hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and +separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in +the market for food. + +[Headnote: DRIVES.] + +The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. east, either by the +high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing above +Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises much above the +coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An omnibus runs +daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by this road (see +p. 187). + +Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour's +rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the Pont Neuf, +near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) start for +Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. On +feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St. +Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H. Victoria, where +bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close +to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs. +Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the +omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with 2 +horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt +Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a +coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour. + +[Headnote: VAL-OBSCUR.] + ++Nice to the Val-Obscur+, 4 m. N.--Take tram from the Place Massena to +St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa +Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by +the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the +left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the +water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but +as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the +conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards +long, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high, +and 7 ft. apart at their narrowest point. By continuing this path for a +little distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing over +by a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a +road ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. +above the sea, or only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve. + +The +Vallon des Fleurs+ ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive +trees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the +valley is about 10 minutes' walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the +tram. A path leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads +round by the head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it +joins nearly opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the +valley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For +Cimiès, see p. 177.) + +[Headnote: VILLA CLERY. ST. PONS. GROTTE ST. ANDRE.] + +A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about 3¾ m. +N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. André. +A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5 frs.; with 2 horses +and 4 seats, 7 frs.; ½ hour's stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But +if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. When about 1½ m. up +the Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard of +the Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yet +in the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. The +oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. the 100, and packed and despatched +to order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the more +beautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the +hill (430 ft.), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery of +Cimiès, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near the +Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edifice +passed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 by +St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Roman +senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor is said to have +spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it was +destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, Bishop of +Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was annexed to +the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part where the +stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the Place Massena, +is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4 frs. per day, +second 3 frs. A little higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660, +and (on a hill) the château of St. André. The château is a plain house +with a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by the +brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school and +part is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is a +small petrifying spring. From the château an avenue of ill-conditioned +cypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. André. +Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high, +through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. André, +dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through it +in a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are +sold. + +From the "Grotte" up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so +narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road +and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit +the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. Those +in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, a village +perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. André. + +_To the Observatory_, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the +expense of M. Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of the +Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend by +the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a house, +ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The +establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the +various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on the +west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and 46 +broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end +dwelling-houses. + + +[Headnote: LEVENS. LANTOSQUE. ST. MARTIN LANTOSQUE. COL DI FINESTRA.] + ++Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.+ + + (Map, page 165, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.) + +_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque._--Diligence from Nice to St. +Martin, 37 m. N. From St. Martin to Entraque, on the north side of the +Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal to 25 m. From Entraque +to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, 24 m. N. by coach. + + The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon, + and after passing the villages of St. André (p. 179) and Tourette, + near the ruins of Châteauneuf, arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. above the + sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. des Étrangers, where the coach halts a short + time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and then descends + into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, where it passes + through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, pop. 1500. Then, + after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed the Vesubie, and + passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. from Nice, it reaches + the village of Lantosque, 28½ m. from Nice, 1640 ft. above the sea, + pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. des Alpes Maritimes. On a plateau 765 ft. above + Lantosque, and 1¼ m. distant, is La Bollène, with a large hotel, + charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. The + coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3½ m. + from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above the sea. It is the + station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with a comfortable + hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère. From Roquebillère the + coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the villages of + Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to +St. Martin Lantosque+, + 37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above the sea. An ancient + village at the junction of the Vesubie with the Salèses. In the + "Place" where the diligence stops is a very good inn, the H. des + Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, 6 frs. Up by the + side of the promenade are some good pensions. On the opposite hill, + ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is the village of + Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding + valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with chestnut + and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. Martin + commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie + and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a + fancied resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide + to Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. up the Vesubie is the stone + which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. farther + the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. above the + sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable + _Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary. + Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in + about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft., is + attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France. + At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo. + +[Headnote: VALDIERI.] + + A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about + 20 m. distant, time 7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all + the way to the Col de Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther + northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between + two mountains, 8745 ft. and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It + then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it + turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From + the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the + village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N. + from the baths, and 7½ m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the + picturesque valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through + the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at + the junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso. + + A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta + road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it + ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows + the course of the Valletta to the baths. "The Baths of Valdieri make + excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In + every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be + found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, the + writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer + need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at + seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine + districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a + narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants, + several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The geology is also + interesting, and would probably repay further examination. + A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly-inclined and + much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire + series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts + overlaid by nummulitic deposits." --_The Western Alps_, by John + Ball. + +[Headnote: PUGET-THENIERS. SAINT SAUVEUR.] + + _Nice to Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does + not become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the + junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and + where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. from Chaudan) meets the + Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop. + 1450, 1476 ft. above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty + village on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of + bare precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes, + pop. 1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., _Inn:_ Ginié. The roads beyond are + traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. from Puget. + + The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On + the Tinée, 40½ m. N. from Nice, is +Saint Sauveur+, pop. 800, _Inn:_ + Vial, with Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating + from 1309. Hot and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock + called the Guez. From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by + the Tinée to St. Etienne, where there is an inn. From St. Etienne, + pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col Valonet to Vinadio (see + map, p. 165). + + +[Headnote: GIANDOLA. SAORGIO.] + ++Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.+ + + Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m., 11 hours, 9 frs.; Tenda + to Cuneo, 29 m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to Turin, by rail, 3 hours + (see maps, pp. 165 and 107). This is rather a fatiguing journey. The + most beautiful views are seen during the descent from Tenda to the + Mediterranean. +Nice.+--Start from the Place St. François. The road + ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the villages of + +Trinité-Victor+, pop. 1300, and +Drap+, pop. 800, with a sulphurous + spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and + crosses over to +Escarène+ on the Braus, 12½ m. N.E. from Nice, pop. + 1500. About 1½ m. farther is +Touet+, pop. 400, whence commences the + tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine + on the S. and Mt. Ventabren on the N. The road now descends to + +Sospel+, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roja, + 25½ m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach daily to and from Menton, + 14 m. S. The road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence + passengers in this direction have their last view of the + Mediterranean. The descent is now made through bleak and barren + mountains to +Giandola+, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice, 1247 ft., at the base + of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ Étrangers, Poste. Coach daily between + this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, are Breglio, pop. 2580, + and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The road now ascends a narrow + defile of the +Roja+, which, suddenly widening, discloses +Saorgio+, + pop. 1600, 400 ft. above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of + dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill is + the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. From this the + valley contracts so much that the road has repeatedly to cross and + re-cross the river on its way to Fontana on the Italian frontier, + 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. Luggage and passports are examined here. + Almost the only habitat of the curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is + between Fontana and Breglio. The road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m. + N., passes through one of the most formidable defiles in the Alps, the + Gorge de Berghe, between steep massive walls of igneous rock. "The + bold forms of the cliffs, and the luxuriant vegetation which crowns + every height and fills every hollow, make the scenery of this road + worthy to compare with almost any other more famous Alpine pass." + --_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a hydropathic establishment, pension + 8 frs. Coach daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda. + +[Headnote: LIMONE. CUNEO.] + + 51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from + Limone, is the village of +Tenda+, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H. National; 2680 + ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja + at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the + castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her + jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare + plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village + church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The + tunnel, opened in 1882--4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and + 4331 ft. at the Limone end--is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The + Tenda end of the tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the + Cuneo end at the hamlet La Panice. From La Panice the road descends + rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone+, 3668 ft., 63 m. N.E. from Nice + and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste; pleasantly situated in + the valley of the Vermanagna, from which an occasional glimpse may be + had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, after passing Robillante, + Roccavione, and +Borgo-San-Dalmazzo+, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo, + 80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ Barra + di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the confluence of the Stura + with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is Turin. + +[Headnote: MONDOVI.] + + The easiest way to go to +Turin+ from +Nice+ is to take the rail to + Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and + Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the Santuario + di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for poor devotees + (p. 210). From Carru station, 50 m. N., a branch line extends 8 m. S. + to +Mondovi+, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tré + Limoni d'Oro. From Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. + S., in the valley of the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance, + 8 frs.; cave, 2½ frs. each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S.W. + from Mondovi, and about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the + +Certosa di Val Pésio+, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a + hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. + Pension, 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed, and well situated for + botanists, fishers, and sketchers. + + At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the + junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31 m. N., + traversing a picturesque country, between S. Giuseppe and Acqui, where + it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida. + +[Headnote: ACQUI.] + + +Acqui+, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from + Alessandria. _Hotels:_ Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly + round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing + establishment, a large building with abundant accommodation. The + pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs., including the use of the + water, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in + mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and + were known to the Romans under the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of + their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths + of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient remains + immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a + temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a + warm mineral water bath. "The therapeutic influence of this + application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements, + rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of + secondary syphilis, and rheumatism." --Dr. Madden's _Health + Resorts_. + + +[Headnote: VILLEFRANCHE.] + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to MENTON + +{142½}{12½} ++VILLEFRANCHE+, pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux +at Nice, also by rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine. +Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. +John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of +Cimiès and Carabacel. 2 m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow +bay, 2 m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche+, +founded in the 13th cent. by Charles II., King of Naples. + The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as + well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the + little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From + Villefranche commences the splendid +Road to Monaco+, 8 m. long and 18 + ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most + enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the + precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche by + rail, or 1¾ by road, is + + [Map: The Corniche Road: Nice to Menton] + +[Headnote: BEAULIEU. PORT OF ST. JEAN.] + +{143½}{11½} ++BEAULIEU+, famed for its large olive trees. A little above the station +is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des Anglais among +"countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by autumn's blast or +wintry skies." Down towards the village is another old olive tree, not +far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco road is the +Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In the +creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a beautiful +place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of the Riviera, +at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of reddish +sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with trees, +which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were transparent; +while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggle +as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind the olives, +and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon trees, +bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall shrubs +hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeks +and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges of +marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, carpeted +in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the Posidonia +Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of the +Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up at +various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree +evaporation. + +A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads from +Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the peninsula to +the +Port of St. Jean+. The real carriage-road commences at the railway +bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to +St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The +continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse, +passing the signal-tower to the right. + +The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used principally by the +tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes a very pleasant +residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated among creeks and +bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part of +the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula of St. +Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed by +the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry around +belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the +10th cent. "A fir-clad mound amid the savage wild bears on its brow a +village, walled and isled in lone seclusion round its ancient tower. It +was a post of Saracens, whose fate made them the masters for long years +of lands remote and scattered o'er a hundred strands." --_Guido and +Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a +cemetery, a church, 11th cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and +a battery. + +[Headnote: LIGHTHOUSE.] + +At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse +(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story +added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is +ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at +a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the +first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles +Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb +is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a +grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large +euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula. + + +[Headnote: PETITE AFRIQUE. EZE.] + +EZE. + +The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and +Eze, the next station, 2 m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. The +steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so +exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has +been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt termination +of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the sea, to +which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to pass +through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the equally +picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d'Eze, backed by a phalanx of +lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. high) of one +of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearly +deserted village of +Eze+, pop. 770, with the ruins of its castle +founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored, +built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Eze +is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under the +remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine landscape displays itself, +while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft.) of the Corniche +road, which here crosses the ridge terminated by Mt. Roux. At the Pass +are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near the +station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, and +throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations of +firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing it +leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road, and +another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to Monaco. A little beyond +Eze is the station for La Turbie. + + +[Headnote: MONACO.] + +100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is + +{149}{6} ++MONACO+ station, situated in La Condamine. At the station (6) an +omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco on the top of the S.W. promontory, +195 ft. above the sea. For Monte Carlo, on the top of the N.E. +promontory, alight at the next station, 1¼ m. N.E. + ++Monaco proper+, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid view +from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and +Muratore. Till the arrival of F. Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor place, +where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from the +produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches of +scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the +gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality, +wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished +anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its +stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with +plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid +hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been +built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few +years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat. +The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company +with the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in the +Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to +build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold +their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc. + +[Headnote: THE PALACE.] + +The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory +since 968, when the Emperor Otto I. gave it to Grimaldi I., Lord of +Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens from the +Grand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez (p. 145). The greatest length of the +principality, from the cemetery wall at the western extremity to the +brook St. Roman at the eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m., and the +greatest breadth, from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population +10,000, distributed among four different centres--the city, or Monaco +proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They +are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle's nest, occupies +its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast +of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most +easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. At the +landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which the +rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on +certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date +from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more +modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle, +the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the +chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within +the entrance is the Cour d'Honneur, decorated on the east side with +friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865, +representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a +horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an +arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni, +representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and +right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left +the first room is the usher's room. The second is in blue satin; +hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the +walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone. +Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., Prince of Monaco. Ceiling +painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings and +green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed pictures +representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red +furniture; style Louis XIII. + +Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York, +brother of George III.; red furniture and hangings; family portraits, +some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom in +which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered scarlet satin; +ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegant +bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low screen. 3. +Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture and +walls covered with white satin richly embroidered. + +The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very pretty +garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers. +Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden. + +At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money +bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long, +and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view. +Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs, +and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la +Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on +the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They +spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or over the prickly pear +plants, here very abundant. At this end is also the Jardin St. Martin, +a very pretty promenade, with charming views. 500 yards west from the +foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid road to Villefranche, is the +cemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Among +the many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre and +Modestine Neri, brother and sister. + +[Headnote: LA CONDAMINE. ST. DEVOTA.] + +On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlo +is +La Condamine+, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable, +a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque +gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church, +on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, a Roman martyr, the +patroness of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of +Monaco, caused the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for +having stolen the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the +harbour and the principal railway station, as well as the less expensive +hotels, such as the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works, +and the Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine; +Étrangers; Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in +all, board and lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H. Nice and +Des Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels: +Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame +Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the +Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still +higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of +France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane +leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels +marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous +company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms. +English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter +temperature, 49°.3. _Cabs._--The course, within the principality, 1½ +fr.; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. The omnibus that runs +between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road starts from the Casino (see +page 178). + +[Headnote: MONTE CARLO.] + +Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt +termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the +Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond +the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of +Focinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected in +1862 by F. Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and formerly the +proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into +the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies' (dames) and gentlemen's +(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the +concert-room--a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with gilt +ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the Muses +and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned arm-chairs +covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied by the +orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued. +Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and +his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino. +The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about +three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance +are the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors give their names +and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms are the tables +for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which the smallest +sum admitted is 5 frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or £240. The fourth +room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and Boulanger, +representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, fishers, +archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to +trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and +the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the +tables. + +Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, and +under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting gallery. +Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramify +in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and along the coast +either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent coast-road to +Villefranche (see p. 184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is +studded, even beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas, +partially hidden among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern +side of Monte Carlo is +Les Moulins+, now quite a town, with shops, +hotels, restaurants, and furnished lodgings. Up on the main road is the +Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., dear. Down below on the coast-road, +fronting the sea, is a small house, the Hôtel du Parc. + +[Headnote: GAMBLING-ROOMS. LES MOULINS. LEMONS.] + +At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to +that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in +the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one +can gamble on credit. About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins +by the main road is the valley of St. Roman, with some very large olive +and locust trees. In the principality are also large groves of lemon +trees. They flower and bear fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons, +which ripen in spring, are called graneti, and those which ripen in +summer verdami. They are the juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the +most suitable for exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is +that made from old tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and +olive trees is composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse. + +_Excursions._--1640 feet above Monaco is +La Turbie+, ascended by a road +containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are 14 feet long by +9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the most are in bad +condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one hour. It +commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from the +railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three restaurants--the +France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most frequented. Bedrooms, +2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful after a hot climb. When up at +La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus to the little knoll close by +and take a seat under the rock at the top, whence "From ancient +battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks and curving bays." But +the one great view, which excels all the others, is from the + + +[Headnote: TÊTE DE CHIEN.] + ++Tête de Chien.+ + +The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +La +Turbie+. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the top, +permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow of the +mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a splendid +uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the other places. +From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, town, village, +cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the western side the +view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and the Maure +mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les Moulins, Mt. +de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, Menton, +Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, which +conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western side +embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of St. +Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, Antibes, the +lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel mountains, and +the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. A good opera-glass +should be taken. A stony road leads down the west side of the Tête, +through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco road, which it joins near +the battery (see map, p. 185). + +[Headnote: LA TURBIE.] + ++La Turbie+, the ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is +a poor village, composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways +close to the massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact +for 1700 years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a +prince of Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with +excellent water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of +Turbie, at the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to the +sanctuary of Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m. +from Nice, but scarcely 2 from La Turbie. + +The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the +long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the +Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that +from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony +paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie +reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the +Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into +a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the +Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one +half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les +Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar +of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the +remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to +the Corniche road (see map, page 185). + + +{150¼}{4¾} ++MONTE CARLO+ station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on +Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels. + + +[Headnote: ROQUEBRUNE.] + +{152½}{2½} ++ROQUEBRUNE+ station, where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the +low road from Menton. + ++Roquebrune+, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the sea, among +great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road a series of +paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees. +The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and more +comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in the +neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace is a +small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the great +castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded it to +Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almost +defaced sculpture representing a bishop's mitre, with the armorial +bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop is +supposed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of +France, who repaired this castle in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to +the top. "No warrior's tread is echoed by their halls, no warder's +challenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their +toil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil from trees that have +for purple mountains made a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid." +--_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. + + +[Headnote: MENTON. HOTELS.] + +699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½ m. N.E. from +Cannes, and 15½ m. N.E. from Nice, is + +MENTON, + +population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. _Hotels and +Pensions._--Commencing with those at the west end of the Promenade du +Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town to the +Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and +esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The asterisk +signifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the price given +that of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or boarding-house. At +the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion; the H. St. George, +9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo; ²*P. Condamine; *H. et +P. Londres. These 4 houses charge from 9 to 12 frs., W from 1½ to 2 frs. +Near the Carrei and the Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H. +Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the +²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very +sheltered promenade up the eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where +the band plays), built over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. de +Paris, 10-14 frs., W 1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d'Angleterre, 9-12 frs. +Opposite, the H. Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in +the busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs., W +1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and Tonin-Amaranté; +and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. Opposite, the +²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. de Menton, all large good +houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H. Menton is patronised by Messrs. Cook. +Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to the sea, is the Midi, same +price. We now enter the eastern or most sheltered quarter, called the +Garavan. The hotels are large and first-class, and charge from 10 to 20 +frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. The most westerly is the H. Italie, +and, about 100 feet up the bank behind, the principal house of the +hotel. A little farther east, on the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue. +Near the Belle-Vue, and on the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a +benevolent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, who +are received for 20s. a week, which includes everything "except +laundress and fire in bedroom." For conditions of admission apply to +Ransom, Bouverie, and Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30 +Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh. +Below, on the terrace along the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining +is the Paix, a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais, +the H. et P. Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site, +Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des +Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais. + +Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the +shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just +behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the +first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), *H. +National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are the +Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; the +last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the P. +des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, on +the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l'Europe, 9-14 frs., +W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the H. and P. des +Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include service, coffee in the +morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never wine, excepting the G. +H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but not coffee. + +Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders +the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of +the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys +watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30 +million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the +thousand. + +[Headnote: BANKERS. CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.] + + _Bankers._--Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. In the Av. Victor Emmanuel + are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice. + In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro Bank and the English Consulate. + _House Agents._--G. Amaranté and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av. V. + Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. Michel. English doctors, chemists, and + grocers. + + _Protestant Churches._--Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix; + St. John's, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H. Italie; + Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R. Partouneaux. + + _Cabs._--One-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs. + Two-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c. + A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs.; a two-horse cab, 25 + frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs. + the hour. + +Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. +Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two +smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built. +The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in +8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even +slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The +public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the +town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip of +ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediately +behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs, +intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The +valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep, +badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys. + +The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending +from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two +roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the +bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous +bone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks in +the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food +of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had +employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond the +viaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the line +close to the beach. + +[Headnote: CAPE ST. MARTIN. GORBIO. ST. AGNÈS.] + ++Cape St. Martin+, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The +tram stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from +the cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre, +consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that +remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From +this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive +trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are +the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St. +Honorat (p. 158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins the +carriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. A stony path on the W. +side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks and +cliffs (see map, p. 185). + ++Gorbio+, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. +above the sea. Take the road E. from the Pont de l'Union, passing by the +entrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of +lemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. from the village the road +becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. +500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the +stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, +steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the +little church, built in 1683, is dedicated "Soli Deo." At the upper end +of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the +tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The +rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends, +in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds +lovely views. +St. Agnès+, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea, +or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle +built in the 10th cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path +leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive +prospect. + +From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the +village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side +of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of +execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of +much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the +traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed +of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion +should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio. + +[Headnote: ANNONCIADE. CASTELLAR.] + +Convent and Chapel of the +Annonciade+, 722 ft. above the sea, on the +ridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank +of the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel +Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of +the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this +easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the +convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings. + ++Castellar+, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road +commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from +the Place du Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad +highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with +lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream +Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. +Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, +is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets +lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. end with the +parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins +of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. From +the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming +view. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January. +From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau, +3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guide +advisable. + +[Headnote: BENNET'S GARDEN.] + ++Pont St. Louis, Bennet's Garden+, Hamlets of +Grimaldi+ and ++Ciotti+.--At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France +and Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge +of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are +an Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet +Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, +the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper +entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The +garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is +chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full +bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming. + +The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill +leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemon +trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having +passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends the +hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting +of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from Ciotti is Mt. +Belinda, 1837 ft. + +[Headnote: LA MORTOLA. HANBURY GROUNDS.] + ++La Mortola+, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia +omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of +the +Hanbury Grounds+, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach +by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the +more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with +the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the +Pergola, a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive +pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. +Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent +view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, +is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the +highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time and +conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the Palmaro +Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The generous founder and father of the present +owner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of +the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an +hour's drive from Bordighera. + +[Headnote: LES MOULINS. MONTI.] + +The most important drive towards the interior is to +Sospel+, 14 m. N., +on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p. 182). +Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railway +station side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are large +plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi are +Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4 m. +farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably above +the stream, are the church and straggling village of +Monti+. The +bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar, +well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the +part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a +small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crosses +the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d'Ora. + +[Headnote: HERMIT'S GROTTO.] + +About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an +almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window +or cavity called the +Hermit's Grotto+. Over the entrance is an +illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another +inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:-- + + CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L'ABITO. + 1528. + (Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.) + +The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. by +4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27 +yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds. +long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening. +Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retired +from grief. + + [Map: Italian Riviera, &c] + +At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to +take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, +hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign. +This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, +Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, +resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by +concealing her sex under a man's dress, and set out with joy in the +capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her +horse, and was forced to stop at an inn. + Robert de Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, + and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a + few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to + his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so + overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of + Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in + the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost + sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have + been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard. + +[Headnote: CASTELLON.] + + The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near + the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the + walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above + the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, pop. 320. + 5¾ m. farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182). + +[Headnote: CLIMATE.] + + _Climate._--Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills + from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder. + + "A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any + period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, + must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the + leading characteristics of the climate of this region--the Undercliff + of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want + bracing, renovating--for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and + the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires + rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the + stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or + of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out + of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter + residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced + pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now + surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. + This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by + rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of + nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and + thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and + assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician + to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of + the Riviera." --Bennet's _Winter Climates_. + + "With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain + shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to + the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these + directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon + the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at + sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean + temperature of November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. + When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day, + though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above + 60°." --_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown. + + For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185. + + + + +THE ITALIAN RIVIERA, + + or + ++Menton to Genoa.+ + +By VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, and SAVONA. + +Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map. + + + miles from MENTON + miles to GENOA + +{ }{100½} ++MENTON.+ The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the +bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep. + +6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of +Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is + + +{6¾}{93¾} ++VENTIMIGLIA+, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_ +near station, the Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. +All the trains halt here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or +Italy is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of the +luggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with the +time of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, "Sale +d'Aspetto," cloak-rooms, "Camerini di Toeletta," and the refreshment +rooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train. +The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominent +position; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office, +theatre, and the best café. The walk up this same Via to the town-gate +shows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuation +beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station, +on the right bank of the Nervia, + on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery, + which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What + remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from + the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under + the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province. + Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily + between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183. + + +[Headnote: BORDIGHERA.] + +{10}{90½} ++BORDIGHERA+, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is +compactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the cape +S. Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, +on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of +the invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. +_Hotels:_ the best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a +garden, near the station. + Similarly situated is the ¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 + frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the + Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station + are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to + 9 frs., and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward + are the hotels ²Victoria and ²Windsor. Admirably situated on an + eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P. + Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs. + At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with + industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by + an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing + through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour + between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of + Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high + town. + + The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose + tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale + yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with + vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, + after the olive, is the most profitable tree. + + To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada + Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This + tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as + an "avisium" or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a + delightful view of part of the coast. + +[Headnote: ISOLA BUONA.] + + 2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the + Nervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1½ + to 2½ m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. + from Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. + from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with + the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th + cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and + on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The + confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads + up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, + commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is + Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone + bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses + crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal + castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by + the Genoese in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera, + is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe + manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way + up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from + Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni + Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as + astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory + at Paris for four generations. + +[Headnote: PIGNA.] + + A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is +Pigna+, on the +Nervia+, + at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village where + the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from + the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose + window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the + apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the + church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and + picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous + spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near + Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of + Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., to + Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia. + + The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by + Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is the + hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster + representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends + from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm + and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, + is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the + Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills + behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the + sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings, + mostly by great Italian masters, such as Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano, + F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino, + Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. + In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected + by the Abbé Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at + his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the + sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, + bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano + Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from + Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs. + +[Headnote: LA COLLA.] + + La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary + to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to + "wet the ropes" when the obelisk was being raised in front of St. + Peter's. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from + Ospedaletti. + + The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a + residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at + Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the + configuration of the coast into a west wind. + + Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, + as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of + Tabernacles. + + +[Headnote: OSPEDALETTI.] + + miles from MENTON + miles to GENOA + +{13½}{87} ++OSPEDALETTI+, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage +towards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In the +village is the ²H. and P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. Upon an +eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining is +a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. The +gambling is private, and on a small scale. + + +[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS.] + +{16½}{84} ++SAN REMO+, 16¼ m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter +18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the +maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water, +and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious +trades. + +_Hotels._--Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² +second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of +their class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the +principal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la +Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden. + Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the ¹*H. San Remo; + the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate + Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, + frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire's is + the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post + Office. + + On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio + Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the + Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and + the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings + the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes + doctors' fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except + washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts + & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London. + + At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one + front to the sea and the other to the road--the ¹H. Méditerranée and + the ¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are + the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains. + + At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences + in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P. + Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German); + ¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate); + ¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on + this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the + pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the + pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the "pensions" from 7 to 11 frs. + + Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo + and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and + Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p. 165). + + _Cab Fares._--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1½ fr. + night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ fr. + during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at night, + 4 frs. + +[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES.] + +Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of +these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via +Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, +booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. "The mean +temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet's +estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of +the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet +for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly +3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the +protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter +from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast +olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into +healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and +removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected +spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable +choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying +distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while +the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, +provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions." --Williams' _Winter +Stations_. + +San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at +Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces +built up with low stone walls without plaster. + +[Headnote: POGGIO.] + +The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San +Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the +Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where +the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the +latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the +"Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana." This road ascends through +olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to +the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, +while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on +the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many +wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended +all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the +Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H. Etoile d'Italie, 6½ m. from San +Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the +profusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of the +excursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 +frs., with ½ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The +chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San +Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma, +Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind +them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the +west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the +chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. rest (see maps, +pp. 163 and 199). + +A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla, +on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea, +and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 +horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See page 199. + + +[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO.] + ++St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.+ + +One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above +the sea, and 4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the +Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of +some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was +inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from +it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above the +sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge, +descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and +make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends +to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about +half that time from San Romolo. "In making the ascent of Monte Bignone, +it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are +strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite +practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat +trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is +exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost +every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with +amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it +runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and +rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after +an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the +broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the +ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, +and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable lies +stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more +than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder. +To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far +distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo; +on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of +the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla, +and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains +of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the +various capes and promontories as far as Cap d'Antibes and even the +Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the +farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and +Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are the +mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the +Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep +valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than +the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped +Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in +the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a +narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of +Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a +singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the +houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading +down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but +clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be +made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful +and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p. 201, and +map, p. 165.) + +[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE.] + +"It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the +splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be +seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in +Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with +ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair +health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare +and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a +lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue +Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met +with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its +trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula +acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip, +Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; +Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; +Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady +dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers +were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some +weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many +plants of Helleborus foetidus L., as also for the first time in flower +the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species +so commonly found above the region of the olive trees." --_San Remo and +the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall. + ++San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 +frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from +San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from +Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. + The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d'Italia, + formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or + Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From + the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of + Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the + Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The + Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of + Badalucco. + + +[Headnote: TAGGIA.] + + miles from MENTON + miles to GENOA + +{21½}{79} ++TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus +awaits passengers (½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d'Italia, at +the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to +Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and +about ½ hour's walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the +gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty +town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair +churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the principal street in the town--is the +habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering +the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to +the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the +beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the +ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San +Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that +of San Remo. + + +[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA.] + +{31}{69½} ++PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce. + +Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small +bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town, +containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double +row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior +represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this +coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly +finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided +into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with +attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are +covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the +edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly +hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows +and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, +connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant, +beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace +of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we +reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is +covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence +overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full +of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way +to + +[Headnote: ALASSIO. ALBENGA.] + ++Alassio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and +56 m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a +high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et +P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. end, the +*G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H. +Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel. + +Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some +of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of +the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the +hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or +up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large +carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio and +the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a +castle on the summit of the hill. + ++Albenga+ is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little +distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d'Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. +Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the +birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a +broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous +trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees +trained as espaliers. A good carriage-road extends up the valley of the +Nerva and across the Col di S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio +and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin. + +After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach +at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola, +pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon +trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape. + + +[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI.] + +{59½}{41} ++FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the +Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles +of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, +presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the +church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The +pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great +deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the +valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th +cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N. +from Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the +commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, +formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially +surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced +from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via +Emanuele II., which commences at the beach on E. side by the +clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the +new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio, +leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime +pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls +garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the +station. Fishing is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the +coast, leads to Spotorno. + + +[Headnote: SAVONA.] + +{74}{26½} ++SAVONA+, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di +Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. +In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his +spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now +modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad +streets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in +enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the +Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied +by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are +small harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is, +in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different +shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of +gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the +western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest +the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the +Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle +of Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first +chapel, left on entering, a "Nativity" by A. Semini. The figure of the +Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the +others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church +is an "Adoration of the Magi" by Albert Durer, in the form of a +triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the +altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 +years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to +500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus +IV., and Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona. +4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di +Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with +precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the +intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m. +northwards (see p. 183). + + +[Headnote: ALBISSÓLA.] + +{77}{23½} ++ALBISSÓLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from +the Port or Marina. 4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop. +10,000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A little +shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange +groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the +_Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means of +transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous +missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, +6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera, +sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso +(1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs, +umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, +and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there +just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness +of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the +village of Inoria. + + + [Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante] + +[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS.] + + miles from MENTON + miles to GENOA + +{85}{15½} ++COGOLETO+, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and on +reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left. +In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus, +with the following inscription:-- + + _Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;_ + _Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!_ + _Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere._ + +It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the +other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That +in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the +adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where +it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a +continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this +sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast +continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances, +they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious +nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of +Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of +Cogoleto. Map, p. 220. + + +[Headnote: ARENZANO.] + +{87¼}{13¼} ++ARENZANO+, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of +the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque +country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between +Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso. + + +{91¾}{8¾} ++VOLTRI+, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and +shipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p. 220. + + +[Headnote: PEGLI.] + +{95}{5½} ++PEGLI+, pop. 1000. _A winter station._ The largest hotel is the +*H. Pegli et de la Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other +to the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15 +frs. On the beach the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little +village, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant +communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of +the grounds around the +Villa Pallavicini+, ornamented with statues of +Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. But +the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with large +stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergreen +shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At +one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many miles +distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a +hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and of +soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble down +the mountain in cascades into the lake, which had to be lined with +porcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and covered +with consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed +in a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In other +parts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, +and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, +1 fr.; for party, 2 frs. + +[Headnote: SESTRI-PONENTE. CORNIGLIANO.] + +1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is +Sestri-Ponente+, pop. +10,800. _Hotel:_ *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing +establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small +pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom +every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the +gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered +with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues of +the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than +the next town, +Cornigliano+, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered +garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4° +to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both +hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous +suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway +station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus +of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams. + + +[Headnote: GENOA.] + +{100½}{ } ++GENOA+, pop. 145,000. The hotels most conveniently situated for +visitors are the G. H. de Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari, +opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15 +frs., No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the +post; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the +Piazza Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above +are in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port +in the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who +have to embark, are--taking them in the order from W. to E.--the Croix +de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the +*France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last two +hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are the +best money-changers. + +For +Genoa to Turin+, see p. 279. + +Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards from +the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad street +Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches. +Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by +the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Maddalena, +which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of that +Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments. + +[Headnote: CAFÉS. CABS. STEAMERS.] + +_Cafés._-- *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle +Nazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. +The principal sights+ are +the church of the Annunziata, p. 212; the Cemetery approached by the +Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between the +railway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria in +Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de +Ferrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea +(p. 218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the +Museum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di +Circonvallazione. + +Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari, +Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily. +Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania, +Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English +steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean, +apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo. + +1-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½ +hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs--the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every +successive ½ hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each. +Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N.W. (p. 279). + +Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo +Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse. + +Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving ground, +rising rapidly from the water's edge to the height of from 500 to 600 +feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets from 6 +to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut in +them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di +Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced "corsos" +skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza +Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to +the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the +upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di +Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of +Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style--gates 40 feet +high, with marble columns--courts paved with various coloured +marbles--broad staircases, all of marble--rooms 30 feet high with arched +ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, crystal +lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels divided +by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings in oil. +The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a +continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the +west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa. + +[Headnote: PALACES. PALAZZO DORIA.] + +The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of +art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty +staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo +Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via +Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces +are remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient to leave with the keeper of +the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms provided with a +list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on a card, which +makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and guides. + +As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and the +cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after having +visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of the +Via S. Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by the +ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria di +Carignano. + +The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria, +reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by +Perino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael's, and a contributor to the +paintings in the Vatican. Perino's best works here are Jupiter defeating +the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the +entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea +Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the garden, on +the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules, +erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog Rolando, given +him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the title of "Il +Principe." The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo, and +over the altar the sword presented to him by Paul III. + + [Map: Genoa] + +[Headnote: VIA MILANO.] + +Adjoining the Doria palace is the +Via Milano+, a terraced promenade +lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more +costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking +_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the Royal +Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the +Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P. F. Cantone and J. A. +Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been so greatly +admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The accommodation is +extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the principal reception +hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are indifferent. + +The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of B. Bianco, +and improved by P. A. Corradi, contains a large collection of +paintings--among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a St. Jerome, by +Guido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by Tizziano; a St. +George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by Correggio. + +[Headnote: P. DURAZZO PALLAVICINI.] + +No. 1 Via Balbi is the +P. Durazzo Pallavicini+, one of the most +important to visit. The architect was B. Bianco, but the vestibule and +staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by A. Tagliafico. The +paintings are almost entirely by Italian masters, such as Molinaretti, +Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, Lanfranco, Procaccini, +Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, Vercelli, Reni, Merone, +Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first room there is a valuable +triptych by A. Durer, and the gem of the collection, James I. of England +and Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception room are other three choice +works by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, +Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of the +artists and subject. + +From the Via Balbi we pass into the +Piazza dell' Annunziata+, with, on +the left hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa, +built in 1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its +present state by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six +stately marble columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty, +and resplendent with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the +entrance is Procaccino's masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on +the cupola are by A. Ansaldi, those on the choir by J. Benzo, and the +remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things +are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and +the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for +Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes. + +We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to +San +Siro+, which was the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar +is by Puget. The fresco on the roof by G. B. Carlone. The marble columns +are all of one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6 +Piazza Pellicceria, is the +Palazzo Spinola+, with many beautiful +paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by +Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino, +a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin by L. Giordano, the Last +Supper by G. C. Procaccini, S. Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family by +Albani, the Four Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem +of the collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by +Tavarone, G. Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery. + +[Headnote: PALAZZO ROSSO.] + +In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the +Palazzo Rosso+ (Galleria +Brignoli), with a small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian +masters, distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn, +and Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and +Carloni. It contains also a good library. + +No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, a splendid +building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes representing +incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and galleries are open +to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala Rossa, and the +Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a portrait of +Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing him in the +presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among other +paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A. Durer, and in the third (the +Sala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect was Rocco +Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by G. T. Carlone, +and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, and M. Canzio. + +[Headnote: PALAZZO SERRA.] + +At No. 12 Via Nuova is the +P. Serra+, built, like most of the other +palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect +Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments +are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the +brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber, +representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of +Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect +Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste. +But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon, +shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt, +alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The +architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the +roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks. +The roof of the next room was painted by A. Semini. + +The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though smaller +display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of No. 5 in this +same street, the P. Spinola. + +At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and +splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by P. +Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and Tintoretto. We +now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, the principal +theatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, where young +men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and sculpture. +Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram stops at the +cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of Carignano. + +The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to +S. Matteo+, +built in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G. A. Montorsoli at the request of +Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on +the church. Over the altar is his sword. The "palaces" in front of the +church belonged to the Doria family. + +[Headnote: S. AMBROGIO.] + +In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautiful +marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of the +Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the +Assumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one +possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same +master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and +Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+, +now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is +ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena +marble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed +by Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used +by Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] + +On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the +11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of +black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of three +large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch of +the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work, +while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. In +the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated +from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches, +over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir +has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in +the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the +chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It was +built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and M. Civitali, +of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official +robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by four +porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to contain the +ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the +right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van +Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of +the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Cæsarea, in Palestine, +and tradition asserted that it had been presented by the Queen of Sheba +to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb +with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law was +passed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to +the vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that the +material was only glass. + +Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a cab-stand, +whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens to +the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views of +Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, passing +through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c. + +[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY.] + ++S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo +Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above +the entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four +colossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by +Puget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings +(covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and +Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross +by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the +highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an +excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square +goes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill +at the N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine +view. + +About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo +Santo+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ hour from +the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the +Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of +the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles. + +[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI.] + +The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820 +ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of +21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three +coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room +enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The +poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded +by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all +that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to +the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of those +they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely +statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley +contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other two +galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large piece +of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77 +long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstone +from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of a +great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black +marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal +statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade rests on six +white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure of galleries, +stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead. +At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse, ++Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di +Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing +accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large +establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio. + + ++The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.+ + + Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by "direct" train. See Maps, + pages 199 and 211. + + miles from GENOA + miles to PISA + +{ }{102½} ++GENOA.+--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with the +exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated between Nervi and +Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N. +winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards, +orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, and +fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of the +superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a site +for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p. 211. + + +[Headnote: NERVI.] + +{7½}{95} ++NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. et P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large +garden, 8 to 15 frs. H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to +12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et +P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., including wine; +admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminus +of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8 frs. Opposite, +the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service. + +Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous +narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S. +side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with olive trees and +studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. from Nervi is +Santa +Margherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs. +A charmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the +neighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful +gardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the +village and promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the +villa Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the +promontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing +village of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view. + + +{18½}{84} ++RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a +small bay. A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the +many pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low road +skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle +longer. + + +[Headnote: CHIÁVARI.] + +{24¼}{78¼} ++CHIÁVARI+, pop. 12,000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo +della Fenicé; Locanda Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the +best towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets, +substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuable +pictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, the +church of the Virgin of Orta, whose "sacred" picture hangs over the high +altar. Chiávari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twisted +straw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the +organ-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4½ m. from Chiávari, +across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand +Hotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this +pleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay +terminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand +view. Shortly after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf +of Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the +island of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief +of which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45 +frs. + + +[Headnote: SPEZIA.] + +{56½}{46} ++SPEZIA+, pop. 11,500, 1 m. from station. Spezia, although near good +scenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitable +winter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the spacious +corso along the beach, the best being the "Croce di Malta," a large and +handsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow the H. National; the +Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-class, but the +Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1½ fr. per hour; +with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italian +navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world. +Napoleon I. intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour of +France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies +150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S. Vito, cover +an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of the bay is the picturesque Porto +Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per +carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black, +with gold-coloured veins. + +"To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte +Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the +Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte +Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand +panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of +Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While +the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern +and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which +renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the +Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia +valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that +time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite +excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6 m. +S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a most +sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the sun has +set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian villa, which +Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, near the +village." --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the train +crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, and +arrives at + + +[Headnote: SARZANA.] + +{67¾}{34¾} ++SARZANA+, pop. 11,200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town, +with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the +Grand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese +in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the +birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447 +elected pope under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted his +native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and +founder of the Vatican library. + +The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed to +Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly +of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street +right, is the citadel, two minutes' distant; and about fifteen minutes' +farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, a beautiful +though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the +railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen from +the station. + + +[Headnote: AVENZA.--CARRARA.] + +{74}{31} ++AVENZA.+ Station for Carrara, 3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also +for Carrara await passengers at the station. Fare, 5 fr. + + +Carrara+ (pop. 14,000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union + of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys + with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the + theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the + Accademia. Near the Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the + station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing + the bridge by Walton's marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio + Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a + short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels. + The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream + Torano, and the village of the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara. + The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden + bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. + To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio + Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all + of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue + to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which + there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the + mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris. + The nearest and the easiest "cavé" to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The + other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent + the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been + found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and + Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any + particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common + road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the + valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique + Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The + marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from + Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not + troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great + business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and + the principal establishments the studios of the artists, where + statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and + exposed for sale. Admission readily granted. + + The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior + walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is + nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies + of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found + chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti. + + + miles from GENOA + miles to PISA + +{78¼}{26¾} ++MASSA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot of +Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. +Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds, +so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the +Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the +gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both on +the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, +although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The town +is quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but the +principal occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square was +once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon's sister. Valuable +marble quarries. Pop. 5000. + + +{84¼}{20¾} ++PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works +near the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On +the first large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in +it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, "strinse nuovi +contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze." S. Martino (13th +cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the +churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile +(1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the church +are handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domes +and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Municipale, +with, in front, a statue to Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino +(14th cent.), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood +are quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble +quarries. + + +[Headnote: VIAREGGIO.] + +{90¾}{14¼} ++VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine; +Commercio. A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa +and Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast +on this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake +Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about +6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country. + + +[Headnote: PISA.] + +{105}{ } ++PISA+, pop. 26,300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung' +Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to +station, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; left hand, +Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the left +side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-stand +at the station. _Fares._--From the station to the cathedral, with from +one to two passengers, 1 fr.; from three to four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The +hour, 2 fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to +the Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifth +street right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at the +commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza del +Duomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the +Baptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes +considerably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of +the 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each. + +[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL.] + +The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, was +completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind arches +decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarly +constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronze +doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entrance +by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures in +delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and various +other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits, +and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and of the +transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. A double row of +columns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts and +choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of fine +marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them are +semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and black +marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars are +by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite each +other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the +transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the +fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the +ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a +colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintings +are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops' chairs. Here also +are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi, +and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pier +of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on the +corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. In +the right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb +of S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga +and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy +Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but +have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while +a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp +suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are +synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small. + + [Map: Pisa] + +[Headnote: LEANING TOWER.] + +The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a cylindrical edifice built of +square blocks of compact marble, and consisting of a well-designed solid +basement, 159 ft. in circumference, with walls 13 ft. thick, above which +rise six open arcaded galleries, supported by 200 granite and marble +columns. Over the sixth arcade rises a round tower 27 ft. high. The +entire height is 183 ft., the mean diameter of the main portion 52 ft., +and the deflection from the perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of +the cornice, which projects 32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174, +and finished 1350. The ascent is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide, +formed in the wall; but not fewer than three are allowed to visit the +top at the same time. Fee for the party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in one +of the small houses (No. 14) nearly opposite. + +[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--CEMETERY.] + +The Baptistery is a circular building, 361½ feet in circumference, +surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and constructed after the designs of +Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 and finished towards the end of the +14th cent. Above the third storey rises the dome, intersected by long +lines of very prominent fretwork, meeting in a cornice near the top, and +terminating in a small dome crowned with a statue of St. John the +Baptist, the titular saint of all such edifices. In the interior eight +large Sardinian granite columns and four marble piers support twelve +arches, over which rises the tier of piers and arches which support the +cupola, within conical, but externally hemispherical. In the centre +stands an octagon marble font for the baptism of adults, with four +circular compartments at opposite sides for the baptism of infants. The +beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da Pisa (1260) is ornamented with +bas-reliefs, and supported on seven columns. Behind the Baptistery is +the _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 by the Archbishop Ubaldo. +It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, and surrounded by a broad +gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and 62 mullioned arches with +quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The inner side of the wall is +covered with paintings in fresco, begun about the year 1300, and +continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on entering is the monument +of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right commence +frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the patron +saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the second door +illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the Theban +wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. Above 38, +the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of Death,--filling +those living in pleasure with horror, but those in sorrow with joy. Now +follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the three chapels, and +frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension. On +the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by Puccio Orvieto, 14th +cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. On the west wall is +hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be drawn across the mouth +of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria broke through in 1290, +burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the chain to Genoa. A few years +ago, according to the inscription, the Genoese returned it to Pisa. On +the wall, under the chain, is the monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and, +a little to the right, a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty +space within the cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the +city. It is filled, to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the +Holy Land by the galleys of Pisa. [Headnote: S. MARIA DELLA SPINA.] +Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on +the bank of the Arno (a low square church)--an excellent specimen of the +Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. The churches of +St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. Andrea, and St. +Francisco, contain a few curious and some good paintings, with other +antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed to contain the bones +of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, Lanfreducci, Seta, and +Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice. + +Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the +Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and +well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian, +considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next +page). + + [Map: Leghorn] + +[Headnote: LEGHORN. STEAMERS FOR CORSICA.] + +Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance +11¼ miles. +Leghorn+ (pop. 90,000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza del +Cantiere, the Nord, fronting the harbour; and close by, in the Via +Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; New York; France; and at No. 59 of the +same street, Il Giappone. Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi. +Presbyterian church, No. 3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat +from the hotel to the steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome and +well-paved streets; among the best of them is the Via Vittorio Emanuele, +which, commencing at the head of the harbour from the Piazza dei +Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza d'Armi, with the +cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its continuation, on +the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends to a large +building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is the grand +reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by an +aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing +"Humphrey Clinker," and was buried in the English cemetery. Steam-boats +every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in Sardinia, and for +Marseilles and Genoa. + + ++Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.+ + + Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199. + + miles from PISA + miles to FLORENCE + +{ }{62} ++PISA.+ The direct line to Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance, +49 miles. Time, 2 hours and 10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca +route is _San Giuliano_, with its thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84° +Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock at the foot of the wooded Monti +Pisani. The waters "are used internally in chronic hepatic complaints, +in gravel, and some renal affections; in dysentery, and dyspepsia +attended with pain and vomiting." --Madden's _Health Resorts_. After +Giuliano, we reach the Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the +left side of the Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive +embankments. + + +{15}{47} ++LUCCA+ (pop. 22,000). Each portmanteau taken from the station to the +cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs await passengers, 1 fr.; portmanteau, +4 sous. + +_Sights._--A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in circumference, and a visit +to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To the south of Lucca, near the +station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 arches. + +[Headnote: PALAZZO DUCALE--PICTURE-GALLERY.] + +_Hotels:_ Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a first +class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona, +near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence +to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H. Corona. +Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in the +Piazza dell'Erba, off the P. Napoleone. Lucca is one of the most ancient +cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to the Etrurians, but was taken +from them by the Ligurians, and colonised by the Romans about 170 years +before the birth of our Lord. The most remarkable event that +distinguished it in ancient times was the interview which took place +here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and which attracted to the town +half the senate and nobility of Rome. After the fall of the Roman +empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, from one of whose +race, Azon II., of the house of Este, the royal families of Brunswick +and England are descended. The town is in the form of the letter O, +surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable drive. At the +railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the principal +sights. One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale, +now the Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in +1578, enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the +post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The ++Picture-Gallery+, open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2, +although small, contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the +first room is a Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the +Creator with Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo, +in 1515 and 1509. Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the +Sala da Ballo, painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are +a Madonna by Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon's sister +Elisa; and two ancient pictures on wood--a Nativity, and a Christ with +Saints. The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were +occupied by Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by +Bartolini (1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza +Napoleone, by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to +another open space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between +the two churches a house called the "Administrazione del opera della +chiesa;" where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_, +an elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B. Baroni in 1350, and the +gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the +Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is +expected. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martino +was commenced by Anselmo Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope +Alexander II., blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England. +The façade, with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in +1204, the choir in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of +the portico are subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on +the left is a Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. Loftiness +and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the interior of this +church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, with the exception +of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The windows are small and +filled with modern glass, excepting the three at the eastern end, which +are by P. Ugolino. All the pictures are covered, excepting on Sundays +and feast-days, but the custodian can always be found in the sacristy, +who shows the church for a franc. Commencing at the first altar, right +hand from main entrance, Nativity, by Passignano; second, Adoration of +the Magi, P. Zucchero; third, Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth, +Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, Resurrection. In south transept, west +side, is the monument to Pietro da Noceto, one of the many admirable +works by Matteo Civitali, to whose genius the church owes its best +sculpture, which he contributed during a period of nearly thirty years +from 1472. The angels on the altar in the Chapel del Sagramento, +opposite the monument, as well as the whole of the chaste white marble +altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining the sacramental chapel, +are by him. On the left side of the high altar is the altar to "Christo +Liberatori," by G. Bologna, and adjoining, La Cappella del Santuario, +where again we find the beautiful handiwork of Civitali displayed on the +altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna+ which forms the +reredos of the altar is by Fra Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna +by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the sacristy, are the two gems in the church. +Just outside the Cappella del Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilaria +del Carretto_ by Jacopo della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly +mutilated, yet a beautiful imitation of the repose of nature transferred +to statuary. [Headnote: THE TEMPIETTO. S. GIOVANNI. S. FREDIANO.] In the +north aisle is the +Tempietto+, a small octagonal chapel standing apart, +in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or 9th cent., said to +have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of an angel. The +fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the Duomo represents +him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times a year. The +embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure of +S. Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit opposite, +are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, founded in the +12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly relieved by the +coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone by the western +corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the Piazza and Church +of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty façade composed +of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the same direction +towards the ramparts, we reach +S. Frediano+, of the 7th cent., with a +large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just within it, on +each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an ancient +circular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved in relief by +Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is against the wall, +and is by N. Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The second chapel on the +right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness of Lucca, in a +sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east side) is a +coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall of the +same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the assumption +of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel covered +with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the +transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had +been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised +by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an +entombment. Opposite is S. Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying by +prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. Above +is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God +surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the +Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds. + + ++The Baths of Lucca.+ + + 17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199. + + The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through + pleasing scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right + side of the river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of + the Maddalena, consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of + Borgo being disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the + bank to the centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built + in 1322, is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood + uninjured the great flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three + hours a height till then unknown, and swept away with irresistible + fury all the other bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and + embankments. The two villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of + the Baths of Lucca are _Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_ + on the right bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On + the hill behind Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By + the side of the Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and + about 100 feet above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way + westward, overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse, + and immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the + exclusive use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses, + is the Bagno Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the + Bagno San Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini's Hotel and + Pension, next the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the + opposite side of the river, in Il Serraglio, are the New York, and + the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the river by the right bank, + along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is another village, which is + also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa+, the most + beautifully situated of the three. _Hotels:_ At the entrance of the + village, the H. and P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on + which the bathing establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion + and the Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension + price in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_ + First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to let. + From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months. + + The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance. + The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very + similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse, + 85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal + ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda + and magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter + being 15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of + La Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but + their principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them + sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal of + the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with more + reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the charming + walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the greater + part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is + beautiful--steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks rise + on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend their + way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points of + various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to + October. + + +[Headnote: PISTOJA. CATHEDRAL--BAPTISTERY--PAL. MUNICIPALE--S. ANDREA.] + + miles from PISA + miles to FLORENCE + +{40½}{21½} ++PISTOJA+ (pop. 13,600). _Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both +in the Piazza Cino. Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr.; +portmanteau, 20 c. Next the H. Inghilterra is the church of S. Giovanni, +erected at the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and +white marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be +by Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza +Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the +lofty Campanile, the "Torre del Podesta," which rises above all the +other buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, a plain edifice, built +in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by A. della +Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and Giovanni +Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to the +jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing an +assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is +represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. The altar of +the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid silver. It is +generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man will uncover it +for 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 years (1314-1466), +and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith's work of that time in +Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in its execution. Below +the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the _Baptistery_, begun +1339 (by C. di Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate +layers of black and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle. +The font is quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the +13th cent. Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit. +Adjoining is the Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale +Civile), constructed in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and +soffits of the massive arches are covered with the armorial bearings of +the former mayors of the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are +still the stone-seats and tables where they sat in judgment. Opposite is +the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down the street, +the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured terra-cotta frieze. +Near the two hotels is the church of _S. Maria dell' Umilta_, built in +1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari. +Near it is _S. Andrea_ (12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the +entrance door, and in the interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured +by Giovanni da Pisa, 1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates +this piece of elaborate sculpture, when it is seen to still greater +advantage. Between the two last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, with +such a quantity of frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory, +that even the visitor on entering feels himself among clouds also. In +the Piazza Prato is S. Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar +pieces. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas +de Weston, Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived +from the name of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a +very early date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia, +B.C. 62, and the precise spot where he is said to have fallen is marked +by a tower. + +Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages at +Pistoja. + +11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is Prato, pop. 13,100. +_Hotels:_ Giardinetto, Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and +defended by a castle built by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior +of the Cathedral are faced with white and green marble in bands. The +nave has columns of serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by +Filippo Lippi, and in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365). + + +[Headnote: FLORENCE. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.] + +61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. from +Turin, 82 m. from Bologna, 134 m. from Piacenza, 196 m. from Rome, and +60¼ m. from Leghorn. + ++FLORENCE+, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. _Hotels and Apartments:_ On the +right or north side of the Arno, the Grand Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la +Ville; Grand Hôtel d'Italie; Washington; Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran +Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the Paix, the Russie. All these +hotels have a south exposure, and are greatly run after in winter. +Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, according to the room. The following +charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are situated in the new streets a little +way back from the Arno, and near the Cascine or Park of Florence +(north-west side of plan):--Hôtel and Pension Corona d'Italia, Via +Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and +Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are +also furnished apartments at from 250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel +and Pension Couronne d'Angleterre, Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension +Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the Universo in the Corso Vitt. +Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, and charging rather less than +the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension +Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of same street, Hôtel Bonciani, +with front also to the Piazza S. Maria Novella. Near the bridge La Santa +Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are the Europe and Nord. In the Via +Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in the Via della Spada the Ville de +Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in the Piazza S. Maria Novella +(near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; Bonciani, with furnished +apartments; and by the side of the station, La Posta and Rebecchino. In +the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses for Sesto Fiorentino and a +large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for visiting the sights, and not +expensive (from 7 to 9 frs. per day), are the H. d'Espagne above the +Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile d'Italie in the V. Calzaioli. Pension +Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le Phoenix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in +which also single rooms are let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del +Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di S. Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension +Rudolfo, Via della Scala. Furnished apartments all over the town. Just +outside the Porta Romana, in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments +cost from 250 to 400 frs. the month. The most expensive as well as the +most fashionable are those situated on the right bank of the Arno; but +in the streets a little way back from the Arno apartments can be had for +less. It is of very great importance in winter to have bedrooms with a +south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold even on a sunny +day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very moderate rates in +restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both in the Via +Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via Calzaioli, +between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti and Co., 5 +Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well. + +_Protestant Churches._--American Church, 17 Via dei Serragli; American +Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, 5 Via del Maglio; +Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini. + +_Cab Tariff._--The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 P.M. to 6 A.M.), +1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c.; every successive +half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. Omnibuses run +between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. Fare, 10 c.; +Sundays, 15 c. + +[Headnote: HINTS AND DIRECTIONS.] + +Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of the +Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best +plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria, +and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little +guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and +statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider's is published in +English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for +Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works, +_Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister and +Co., London, and volume 3 of _Hare's Cities of Italy_. + + [Map: Florence] + +It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander +into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure +by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately, +are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the +Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the +Tribuna (p. 238), containing the concentrated excellence of both +galleries in painting and antique sculpture. Besides what are in the +Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures in the Pitti, of which the most +famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell' Educazione di Giove (see p. 244). +Michael Angelo's finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo +(see p. 265), but the best collection of his works is in the _National +Museum_ (see p. 261). His David is in the _Accademia delle Belle Arti_ +(see p. 272). In the National Museum is the best collection of sculpture +by great _Italian Artists_, such as Michael Angelo, G. Bologna, Luca and +Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano, +Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in +the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of +the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or +Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but +particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached +to St. Lorenzo), S. Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are open +from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till six. +The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their +cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of Del +Carmine (page 252). Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in +1240, in the Rucellai chapel of S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best +frescoes by D. Ghirlandaio on the chancel or recess occupied by the high +altar in S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best frescoes of A. del Sarto in +the narthex of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the +first and second chapels of S. Croce (page 260). Of the palaces the best +are the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and the +Palazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view of Florence is from the top of +the dome; the ascent is very easy. The pleasantest drive, with views, is +to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the Porta Romana and the Boulevards +Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo (page 249), studded with +handsome villas. + +[Headnote: PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. LOGGIA DELL' ORCAGNA. NATIONAL +LIBRARY.] + +At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the _Ponte +Vecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each side. By +referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the Pitti +Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this +bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S. Maria, +leading to the +Piazza della Signoria+. From the north-west corner of +the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the Via Calzaioli, leads +to the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern corner the street called the +Borgo de' Greci leads into the +Piazza Santa Croce+. It is of great +importance to understand the relative position of these three squares. +The chief feature of the Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_, +a fine specimen of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274). +On either side of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis +and Philemon, by Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules +and Cacus, also by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called +the +Loggia dell' Orcagna+, from the name of the architect, or dei +Lanzi, from the name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building. +It was usual in the early period of the Republic to provide a space near +the government-house where the people could meet and take part in public +affairs; and for this purpose this open gallery was built opposite the +Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. Five steps, running along the +front, lead up to the platform, covered by a vaulted roof, supported on +four arches, resting on three columns terminating in beautiful capitals +of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament +the entrance. The lion on the left is by F. Vacca, 17th cent.; the +other, on the right, as well as the six statues of Sabine priestesses, +along the inner wall, beautiful in attitude and drapery, are antiques, +and were brought from the Villa Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under +each arch, stand three separate groups, by celebrated masters of the +16th cent. To the right is the Rape of the Sabines, by G. Bologna, in +1583. Originally this group was intended to represent Youth, Manhood, +and Old Age. To the left the statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head +of the sorceress Medusa, by B. Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of +power and animation, but the head and body of the Medusa are represented +streaming with blood with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith +and Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of +Polixena, a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an +antique group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of +Patrocles--restored by S. Ricci. Next it is the marble group, by +G. Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this Piazza is +also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of Bandinelli), 1571. +It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over by a statue of +Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. Adjoining is a +superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse is admirable. +To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione (considered to have +been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining the Loggia dei Lanzi +are the extensive buildings "degli Uffizi," the great storehouse of art +treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along the basement floor, +extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari (1560-74), ornamented with +24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On the same side as the Loggia +is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). On the opposite side, at the second +door from the end, is the entrance to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six +doors farther down, the entrance to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, with +about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be +had for consultation in the reading-room by writing the name on a slip +of paper. The National Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the +Palatine Library collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library +collected by Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the +colonnade leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio. + + + [Illustration: Plan of the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries] + +[Headnote: UFFIZI GALLERY--VESTIBULES--CORRIDORS.] + ++Galleria degli Uffizi.+ + +Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.'s near the +portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern +gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous +collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar +collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno +by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by +the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both +collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the +second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at +the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into +the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi, +and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the +western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go +wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds, +fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a +small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes +in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to +enter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. Downstairs, +outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli gardens. + +Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those who +wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the galleries +may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first vestibule are +Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and sacrifices, and +busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I., Francis I., and of others of +the Medici. Second vestibule, more Roman statuary, and an inimitable +Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole expressing admirably the growling +ire kindling in an irritated animal. Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold, +spirited, and true to nature. The horse, said to have belonged to the +Niobes group, does not bear close examination. + +We now enter the eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceiling +painted in arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable +specimens of ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and +members of the imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung +a valuable and interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff +gilded Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna by +Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St. +Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in colour and +grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, by Giotto, pupil of +Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. Angelico; No. 24 a +Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by P. Uccello; and No. 61 a +Crucifixion by Lippi. + +[Headnote: TUSCAN SCHOOL--TRIBUNA.] + +From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls where +the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as is +shown on the plan, the +Scuola Toscana+, contained in three rooms, and +consisting of 165 paintings, by M. Albertinelli, A. and C. Allori, B. +Angelico, M. A. Anselmi. B. Bandinelli, Fra. Bartolommeo, G. Biliverti, +S. Botticelli, A. Bronzino. F. Cambi, J. Casentino, Cigoli, P. di +Cosimo, L. di Credi, F. Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P. Francesca, M. A. +Franciabigio. A. L. Gentil, D. and R. Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, G. S. +Giovanni, B. Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra F. Lippi. O. +Marinari, Masaccio, T. Manzuoli, G. da Milano, F. Morandini. G. Pagani, +M. Pasti, S. Pieri, A. Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G. Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il +Rosso, G. F. Rustici. V. Salimbeni, C. Salviati, A. del Sarto, +L. Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R. Vanni, O. Vannini, G. Vasari, Dom. +Veneziano, A. Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, Volterrano. F. Zucchero. +The earliest painters are in the inner room. Among the most remarkable +of them are, B. Angelico, 1294. A. Botticelli, 1286, a large picture, +and 1289 and 1299. Fra. F. Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297. +G. da Milano, 1293, in ten compartments. A. Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D. +Veneziano, 1305. + +In the middle hall--Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265; +Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F. Lippi, 1257 and 1268; +Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da +Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture. + +First hall--Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, one of +his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; Leonardo da +Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine. + +[Headnote: THE TRIBUNA.] + +Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the +Tribuna+, +a plain 8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B. Buondelmonti, +and painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five +of the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the +choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F. Barocci, Fra. +Bartolommeo, A. and L. Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, A. Durer, +Guercino, L. Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, B. Luini, Mantegna, Michael +Angelo, L. d'Olanda, P. Perugino, Raphael, G. Reni, Giulio Romano, +Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck, +P. Veronese, and D. Volterra. Facing the door is the +Venus de Medici+, +4 ft. 11 inches high, supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus, +which, along with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the +Villa Hadrian, in Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group of +the Wrestlers, exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn, +attributed to Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that +remains of the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael +Angelo. In the _Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalid +countenance, and the short neglected hair, express admirably the +character of a slave, still more plainly written on his coarse hard +hands and wrinkled brow. Among the paintings, six are by Raphael--all +gems. 1120 Portrait of a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the +Fornarina, every hue as perfect as if transferred to the canvas by the +sun--the expression is pert; 1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well), +attributed also to Franciabigio, beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in +the Desert, colouring tawny, but admirable light and shade; 1129 the +Madonna del Cardellino (nightingale), one of Raphael's best works, +painted when he was 22; 1131 Portrait of Julius II., considered one of +the finest portraits in the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti +Gallery, and in the National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits +by Raphael of this impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by +Michael Angelo. This picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits +powerful drawing with dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St. +Francis and St. John, called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del +Sarto--rich but subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the +famous recumbent Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by +Correggio--wonderful colouring. + +[Headnote: THE ITALIAN SCHOOL.] + +Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the +Tribuna+, +and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French +schools, and the collection of gems. +The Italian+, or more properly the +Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, D. Ambrogi. +Baroccio, J. Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, Canaletto, A. Caracci, G. da +Carpi, G. Carpioni, B. Castiglione, M. Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio. +Domenichino, B. and D. Dossi. C. Ferri, D. Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo, +L. Giordano, Giorgione, F. Granacci, J. Guercino. J. Ligozzi, B. Luini. +A. Magnasco, A. Mantegna, L. Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi, +Moretto da Brescia. Palma (both), G. P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P. Piola, +C. Procaccino, S. Pulzone. G. Reni, P. Reschi, S. Rosa. E. Savonazzi, J. +Scarsellino, B. Schidone, F. Solimena. A. Tiarini, Tinelli, Tintoretto, +Tiziano, A. Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. +B. Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are Guido Reni, 998 +Madonna; Parmigianino, 1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio, +1016 Child's Head; A. Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap; +Caravaggio, 1031 Medusa. + +[Headnote: THE DUTCH, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH SCHOOLS.] + +_The Dutch School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by +Berkeyden, Borch, G. Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, Netscher, +O. Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with Holy Family. +R. Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, Van der Heyden, +Van der Werf, Van Kessel. + +_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157 +paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of +Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847 +Luther and Melancthon. C. Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape, +considered the gem of this department. G. Dow, 786 Schoolmaster. +A. Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765 +Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin +Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best +pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits. +Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a Madonna. + +_The French School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most +noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of +Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and +afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame +do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680 +Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet. + +[Headnote: ROOM OF GEMS.] + +_The Room of Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to +view statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made +of lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise, +and gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article, +a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of +Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who +presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of +Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by +Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here +are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into +the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into +Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round +altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth +extracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the Vatican; +145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept in the +little office in the corner of this corridor). + +[Headnote: THE VENETIAN SCHOOL--PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS.] + ++West Corridor+ and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both sides, +and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later date +than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the ++Venetian School+, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four +contain portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind +the Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins. +The 82 pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are by +twenty-five great masters, T. Bassano, G. Bellini, P. Bordone, C. +Caliari, D. Campagnole, Giorgione, L. Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto, +Morone, G. Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo, +A. Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P. Veneziano, C. Veronese, +P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the immortal +Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) and of the +Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I.; of "Flora," called his +Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino +(596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy Family; 609 Battle between the +Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618 +Sketch of Virgin and Child for his celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at +Venice. P. Veronese, 589 Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before +Ahasuerus, and 636 The Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in +Cana. In the next two rooms are +Portraits of Artists+ of all nations, +from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338) +of Card. Leopoldo de' Medici, and in the middle of the hall the +celebrated +Medici Vase+ (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in +relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke +Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with +200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable are--288 +Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 Rubens; 232 +Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; 374, 384, +and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; 546 Sir +Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall of +portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and stairs +leading to the Pitti Gallery. See page 243. +Sala delle +Iscrizione.+--The walls are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions, +arranged in 12 divisions according to the subject. In this room are also +some very interesting ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso +of a Faun. _Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite._--The most important piece of +sculpture here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion's skin, +a valuable Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering. +_Cabinet of Cameos._--A very precious collection of ancient and modern +cameos, statuettes, and enamels, including those presented by Sir +William Currie in 1863. + +[Headnote: THE HALL OF NIOBE.] + +_Sala del Baroccio._--Against the walls are beautiful tables in +pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the room by +Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall contains 172 +pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in size and +merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or "The Virgin +interceding with her Son;" 163 is Susterman's portrait of Galileo; 191, +by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce's best works, "St. +Galla Placida." +Sala della Niobe.+--The hall of Niobe was built in +1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the famous statues supposed +to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found near the Porta S. Paolo +at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her children struck by +thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the finest and most +powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are round the cold, +flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his separate pedestal, the +illusion of design and composition is not only destroyed but individual +criticism invited, a test all of them cannot bear. It is believed that +originally they formed a group on the pediment of a temple. Niobe is +rather large, nearly nine heads high, but the child she protects is +without a fault in form. This group is of one piece of marble. All the +others are in single figures. But the soul and source of all that is +interesting in these statues is the wonderful figure of the wounded and +dying youth, represented lying on his back, his legs just crossing each +other, the left hand reclining on his breast, and his right arm slightly +raised. As a statue, it commands the highest admiration, and as a chaste +and powerful picture of death, the keenest sympathy. Behind the statue +of Niobe is a very large picture by Rubens--Henri IV. at the battle of +Ivry--a performance of wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite +it, 147 The entry of Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152 +Honthorst, Fortune-teller. + +[Headnote: THE HALL OF BRONZES.] + +_Sala dei Bronzi._--In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most +remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso +428 found near Leghorn--a torso is the trunk of a statue that has lost +the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a youth, +5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in 1530. The +pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a list of the +Roman Decurions, dated A.D. 223. _Galleria Feroni._--In this room are +arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of +which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. Dolce; A Butcher's Shop, +by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by B. Schidone. Outside, in +the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali Paoli, the Corsican patriot, +by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the +master of Claude Lorraine. + + +[Headnote: THE WAY FROM THE UFFIZI TO THE PITTI GALLERIES.] + +THE CONNECTING GALLERIES. + +Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and +stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of +Francesco de' Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of +"Abundance" in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The +walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are +covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting +a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time. +The corridor on the +Ponte Vecchio+ crossing the Arno is occupied with a +glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first part of +the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous portraits +of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage behind the +Via Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, executed in the 16th +and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are those representing +the festivities at the marriages of Henry II. with Catherine de' Medici, +and of Henry IV. with Maria de' Medici, executed in 1560 after designs +by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a short stair ascends to a room hung +with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, or in one colour, by several of +the old painters. From this another short stair leads to the long narrow +gallery on the wall of the Boboli gardens. This gallery is hung with +water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo Ligozzi, in 1695, representing +with wonderful truthfulness, figures of birds, fishes, and plants. To +these illustrations of natural history succeeds a series of miniature +paintings of scenes in the life of our Lord. Now we come to the common +stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti Gallery, and downwards to the +door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next the gate leading into the +Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a large vestibule, with a +window looking into the gardens. The names of the Sale and Stanze (Halls +and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room is provided with two of +these catalogues, one in Italian and another in French. The halls are +painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and rich tables of +Florentine mosaic. + + +THE PITTI GALLERY. + +The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell' Illiado_, painted by Sabatelli +in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of "Charity," by Bartolini. +Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his +Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkable +picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is +represented by some of his best portraits:--No. 200, Philip II. of +Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de' Medici; 215, Portrait; and 228, the +Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P. +Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, S. Rosa, his own Portrait; +and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod. +Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. 230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col +lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha. + +[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--HALLS OF SATURN, JUPITER, MARS, APOLLO.] + +_Sala di Saturno._--The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da +Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:--151, Portrait of Pope +Julius II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. The others +by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of (171) +Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. of England +and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by Perugino. + +_Sala di Giove._--Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of the +room statue of "Victory," by Consani, and at the sides five Tables in +Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of +Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then +follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by +A. del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the lower +corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials S. A. R. O. +No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of G. Benci, by Leonardo da +Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens. + +_Sala di Marte._--Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, Rubens, +Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful paintings. +The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. 94 is a +Holy Family, also by him--called the "Impannata" or cloth window. No. +81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del Sarto. 82, +Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by Rubens. 96, +Judith, by C. Allori. + +_Sala di Prometeo._--The Mosaic Table in this room, by Giorgi, occupied +him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo Lippi. + +_Sala di Apollo._--Raphael has three portraits in this room:--59 and 61, +M. and A. Doni; and 63, Leo X. Tiziano has some fine works:--No. 67, +a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and 54, Aretino, the poet, is +one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by Murillo. 58, by A. del Sarto, +Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the same subject +admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo. + +_Sala di Venere_ (Venus).--Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and 15 are two +most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella Donna, by +Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L. Cardi (Il Cigoli). + +_Galleria Poccetti._--Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. +Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns in oriental +alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and admirably +executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by Card. +Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in ivory, +amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones. + +_Stanza della Giustizia._--Painted by Fedi. The beautiful ebony cabinet +was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in this room is +408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir Peter Lely, +by request of Ferdinand II. of Tuscany. + +[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--ROOMS OF FLORA, ULLISSE, GIOVE.] + +_Stanza di Flora._--In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called +also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the +Venus de' Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to +Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II., by +Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Tiziano. + +_Stanza dei Putti._--Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large picture by +Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher's Forest--Diogenes throwing away his +drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael. + +_Stanza d' Ullisse._--Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait +by Rubens of the favourite of James I., George Villiers, Duke of +Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by +Ligozzi. 297, Paul III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by Sal. +Rosa. + +_Stanza del Bagno._--This, the bath-room, is tastefully fitted up with a +mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, and four marble +statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni. + +_Stanza dell' educazione di Giove._--Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna +del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti +Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by +Velasquez. 248, a "Descent" by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra. +Bartolommeo. + +_Stanza della Stufa._--The frescoes on the walls, representing the Four +Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the nephew of Michael +Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by +Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique +statues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain vase +with a likeness of Napoleon I., and two justly celebrated bronze statues +of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by Papi in 1849. + + +THE BOBOLI GARDENS. + +Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend to +the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass +through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and +feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the +office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the +corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders +and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses, +encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more +like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial +grotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by G. Bologna; +and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael Angelo, intended +for the monument of Julius II. at Rome, and presented to Cosmo I. by +L. Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is the Amphitheatre; within the +centre a granite obelisk and a large granite basin from Egypt, but +brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the palace, near the Porta Romana, +is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in marble by G. Bologna. In the +flower-garden "del Cavaliere," are two more fountains, with monkeys in +bronze, by the same artist, and a small villa, from the top of which +there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the highest part of the gardens, +facing the palace, is a colossal statue of Dovizia (Abundance), +commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil Dacca. + +[Headnote: PITTI PALACE.] + +THE PITTI PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in +1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished +building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but +not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659 +feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by +the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed +the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and +Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto +covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented +with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in +bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal Chapel. Above the altar +is an ivory crucifix by G. Bologna. At the end of the portico, to the +left, a door opens into the court, in which is the entrance into the +room containing the splendid _Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Cellini +and Maso Finiguerra, and ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the +famous artist in wax, has likewise some of his works here. The state +apartments are sumptuously furnished. + + +[Headnote: TRIBUNA GALILEO--MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. ANATOMICAL +PREPARATIONS IN WAX.] + +Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the +house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther up +the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the + +MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE, + +in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both open +on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule is an +old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, probably by +Ignazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence by Cosmo I. He +died in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or Tribuna di Galileo.[*] +Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the table. The +statue of him is by A. Costoli. In the niche to the right are his +telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by himself, and by +which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the niche on the left +are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical instruments +belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 and dissolved +in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince Leopold de' +Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating scenes in the +life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of Galileo, taken +from the body when it was removed to its present resting-place in the +church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the excellent and +comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections are admirably +arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department contains the +herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to have collected +about the year 1563; of P. A. Micheli, collected about the year 1725; of +Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; of Labillardière, who +accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New Holland; of +R. Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the Englishman, P. B. +Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this museum. But the most +wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical preparations in wax, +chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, under the direction of +Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great works of the great +painters, they are executed with the most minute care and truthfulness +to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the cuttle-fish or of +the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the most delicate +organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve rooms, entered +from the shell department, by the door lettered "Ittiologia," opening +into the Zootomia. + + [Footnote *: The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any + large niche. But the real meaning of the word "Tribuna" is the + semicircular cavity at the extremity of a Roman basilica, where + the judges sat. In the early ages of the church some of these + buildings were given to the Christians for public worship, who + still retained their secular name, and worshipped in them without + consecration.] + + +THE HOUSE OF GALILEO, + +at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by +which, in 1536, Charles V. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. An omnibus +runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side there is a +cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the omnibus for the +Certosa (see page 250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three +broad roads--the lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the +Certosa; the centre one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del +Poggio Imperiale; while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first +of a series of magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble +terrace the Piazza Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio +to the Royal Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the +Instituto della Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascend +by the Via del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road +to the right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the +house in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which +when blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was +born in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, is +indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep +little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower +(Torre del Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations. +It contains several relics of the great astronomer--a telescope, table, +and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico che si +conosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by Salvatelli, a smaller +portrait of him by P. Leoni, 1624. From the farmhouse a steep narrow +road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza Michelangiolo and +the Porta Romana. + + +[Headnote: SAN MINIATO.] + +THE PIAZZALE MICHELANGIOLO. + +There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk or +drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of S. Miniato. +They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the Arno, two bridges +higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are distinctly seen from the +Lung' Arno. The nearest way to approach them on foot is, having crossed +the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio), walk +up the left bank of the Arno, passing the Piazza containing the fine +marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, by L. Bartolini, in 1835, +and continue the walk up the river till arrival at a square tower in the +Piazza della Molina, whence commence the ascent by the stairs and road +the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it from the Porta Romana by the fine +avenues the Viali Machiavelli and Galileo, bordered by trees and +handsome villas, disclosing as they wind round the steep sides of the +hills a succession of ever-varying views. The Piazzale Michelangiolo is +a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the Arno, commanding a grand +prospect, and adorned with five statues in bronze, copies by C. Papi of +Michael Angelo's famous works. To the right is the Viale Michelangiolo, +the carriage road leading down to the Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the +suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). Above the Piazzale, by the convent +church of San Salvatore del Monte (built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the ++Basilica of San Miniato+, one of the earliest (1013) as well as one of +the most perfect structures in the Byzantine style. Internally it is 165 +feet long by 70 wide, and is divided longitudinally into aisles by +pillars of classical design. The façade is faulty. The tower was erected +in 1519. The floor of the nave is considerably under the level of the +chancel, which terminates in a semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed +in 1247, and of the same kind as those of St. Mark's at Venice. Behind +the altar are five small windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble. +Between the stairs leading up to the chancel is the chapel constructed +in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie the remains of Gualberto, the founder of +the church and of the order of Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north +aisle is the chapel of Cardinal Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by +B. Rossellino, and the beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca +della Robbia. On the south side is the Sacristy (built in 1387), +exquisitely painted in fresco by Spinello Aretino, representing scenes +in the life of St. Benedict. In the centre of the nave is a curious +piece of Byzantine pavement, executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the +crypt, supported on 38 marble columns, several being prolongations of +those above. Under the altar is the tomb of San Miniato. From the +terraces of the adjoining cemetery there are splendid views of Florence +and of the valley of the Arno. + + +THE CERTOSA. + +From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at +the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles +distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the +grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading +up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely +situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is +now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars +of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At +the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the +convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal +to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see +the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a +fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento +style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco +by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls, +and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of +S. Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity of +the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the mausoleum +of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs over the +tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow cloister with eight +small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, 1560; Cappella del +Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by Albertinelli, and in +the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by Stogallo, 1545; then +the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and bedroom. He was a +prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are obtained from various +parts. In passing through the villages women may be seen plaiting +straw--a standard occupation in Tuscany. + +[Headnote: BELLO SGUARDO. MONTE OLIVETO.] + ++Views.+--From the Porta Romana commences also the road to the Bello +Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about a mile distant), both commanding +splendid views of the city, of the valley of the Arno, and of the +surrounding mountains. Immediately outside the Porta turn to the right, +and walk by the side of the city wall by the Via Petrarcha till the +second road on the left, the Via de Casone, by which continue to ascend +till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello Sguardo. By it +ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell' Ombrellino, where at the +house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the pavilion of this house; +fee, ½ fr. To go from this to Monte Oliveto descend to the Via di Bello +Sguardo, and from a house with a high railing turn to the right by the +"Via di Monte Oliveto Per S. Vito," and descend to a large gateway and +house on the left hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte +Oliveto, then walk forward past the old convent, now a military +hospital, to the top of the knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the +view. Now descend by the Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the +hill, enters the Via Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta +S. Frediano, whence an omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If +preferred, the tour may be commenced at this end, taking the omnibus +from the Piazza to the Porta. + +[Headnote: SANTO SPIRITO. SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.] + +SANTO SPIRITO AND SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.--By referring to the plan it +will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are +two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous +frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino Lippi (b. +1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in which Luther +preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. The present +church of the S. Spirito was commenced in 1446 by F. Brunelleschi, +destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 according to +Brunelleschi's design. The belfry, which is of admirable proportions, +was erected by B. d'Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and 191 at the +transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of the aisles +rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of pietra-serena, +brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church are 38 +semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro Allori, +Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del Garbio, +Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, and Cosimo +Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th chapel from +entrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left transept, 19th and 20th +chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. 22d chapel, an +Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the most remarkable +work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, a Pieta, by Baccio +Bigio, a copy of the group by Michael Angelo in St. Peter's, Rome. The +proportions of the dead body of our Lord are admirable, and the ribs, +loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully marked. Before the choir is a +screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze and rich marbles, and +although rather out of place, full of beautiful details. The high altar, +under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of rare porphyry, +is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni Caccini. A door +in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the joint work of San Gallo +and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. In the sacristy a door +to the right opens into the cloisters, by A. Parigi, adorned with +frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and Cascetti. + +[Headnote: BRANCACCI CHAPEL.] + +The church +Del Carmine+ was erected in 1475, destroyed by fire in 1771, +and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and Mannaconi. Among the parts which +escaped destruction in 1771 was the Brancacci chapel, at the end of the +western or right transept, covered with valuable frescoes, in 12 +compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and Masolino da Panicale. The four +principal subjects are (left wall) "Christ directing St. Peter to take a +coin from a fish's mouth to pay the tribute," by Masaccio, whose +portrait is given in the last apostle to the right; "the Restoration to +Life of the Emperor's Nephew," painted by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio. +On the right wall are-- "St. Peter raising Tabitha," by Masolino; "the +Crucifixion of St. Peter;" and "St. Paul before the Proconsul," by +Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said to have been studied by +Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo. Of the eight +small subjects, "The Expulsion of Adam and Eve," and "St. Peter and St. +John Healing the Sick by means of their Shadows," on the left wall; "St. +Peter Baptising," and "St. Peter Distributing Alms," on the right wall, +are all by Masaccio. "The Visit of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison," on +the left wall, and "the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison," on the +right wall, are by Lippi. "Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge," +and "St. Peter Healing the Cripple," are ascribed by some to Masolino, +by others to Masaccio. In the opposite arm of the transept is the +Corsini chapel, with large marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes +on the ceiling by Luca Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some +frescoes discovered in 1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also, +and with more probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the +life of St. Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some +fragments of which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the +Royal Institution, Liverpool. + + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--DOME--ASCENT.] + + The Duomo, 252. The Campanile, 255. The Baptistery, 256. + Il Bigallo, 257. San Michele, 257. Santa Croce, 258. The National + Museum, 261. La Badia, 263. The House of Michael Angelo, 263. + +The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria del Fiore was commenced by +Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone laid on the 8th of September +1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate ever sent to +Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. In 1330 +Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea Pisano, +continued the work according to Arnolfo's design. Giotto died in 1337. +To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea Orcagna. +In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and completed it in all +its essential parts before his death, which took place in 1446. In 1469 +Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper ball and cross. The dome, +built without timber centrings, consists of two vast vaults, an interior +and an exterior, both supported by strong ribs at the right angles, and +surrounded at the base by a strong iron chain. From the floor to the top +of the dome the height is 300 feet, the lantern 52 more, and to the top +of the cross other 35. The total height therefore is, from the floor to +the top of the cross, 387 feet. The circumference of the dome is 466 +feet. Three galleries are carried round the drum. The first is reached +by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; and the third, which runs round +the top of the drum and the base of the dome, by other 65 steps. The +appearance of the church from the first and third galleries is most +striking. Outside the third gallery commences the cornice gallery of the +dome. From this part 180 steps (between the two vaults) lead to the top +of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to the ball the ascent is made +up through the lantern by 32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in +marble, and 23 in wood. The number of steps, therefore, from the floor +into the ball is 528; the only difficult part being the vertical bronze +bear-like ladder in the lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little +can be seen (and that little with difficulty) from an aperture in the +ball. But the view from the gallery at the top of the dome is truly +magnificent. Florence and neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on +a map, and as the clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest +objects being seen distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery +as early as possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234), +a practical acquaintance with the topography of the city. To the N.E., +by the Piazza Cavour and the stream Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 miles +distant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on the +Arno, is the Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of +trees, on the other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250). +To the S.E., on the other side of the Arno, are the Piazzale +Michelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece beyond is +the Torre del Gallo (page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli +Gardens and the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be +found in south sacristy. + +The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 feet. +The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the superficial +area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area occupied by +Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone of +the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole exterior of the church, +with polished white marble, and dark magnesian serpentine disposed in +chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement often met with in the +churches of Italy. + +[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO'S LAST WORK.] + +In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of the +nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the +magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not +struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively +unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble +pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and +stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the +narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated +octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues +of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and +Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d'Agnolo, and the +reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents +the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G. Vasari, in 1572, and the +rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of Queen +Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular windows, +which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the twenty-seven +long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi da Gambassi, +Bernardo de' Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind the altar is +the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of age), an +_unfinished Pieta_, a heroic group, large but not colossal, composed of +four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and an +Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the melancholy but placid +countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination of the head lacerated +by the crown of thorns. The Mask, Michael Angelo's first work, is in the +sixth room of the National Museum, along with some other works of the +great sculptor. His greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, see +page 266. The reliefs in terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of +the sacristies, are considered amongst the best works of Lucca della +Robbia. On the pier at the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St. +James, by Sansovino; and just behind it, on the wall, is a painting by +Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing Dante (holding in his hands +a copy of his poems), with a view of Florence in the background, the +only monument the Republic raised to him they had so unjustly banished. +In the north transept, covered by the wooden floor, just under the iron +bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, formed by P. Toscanelli in 1408, +and repaired by A. Ximines in 1756. The line drawn on the true pavement, +under the present boarded floor, runs in a direction nearly at right +angles to the nave (the nave being nearly east and west). It is only +about 30 feet long, and receives the image of the sun, at and near the +solstice, in June and July; at other seasons the image is lost on the +sides of the cupola. The short diameter of the image in July is about 36 +inches. The height of the aperture, through which the ray enters by a +window of the cupolina, is 277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure; +so that, as the inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--MONUMENTS--CAMPANILE.] + +Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main +entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood, +a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at Florence +in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, is by +Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble monument +and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. Cavalcanti. The +third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. The beautiful +water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern entrance, in +front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a sitting posture, +of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi Pampaloni, in 1830. To +the right of Arnolfo's statue, at house No. 29, is a stone in the wall, +bearing the words "Sasso di Dante," because on it the poet used to sit +watching the progress of the cathedral from its commencement till 1301, +when he was compelled to leave the city. + +At the southern entrance is the +Campanile del Duomo+, designed and +commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This +dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and +beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys +of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting +from the summit, from which, according to Giotto's plan, a spire of 94½ +feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of apostles, +saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture subjects in bold +relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, Niccolo Aretino, +Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent by 414 steps. +Fee, ½ franc each visitor. + +[Headnote: THE BAPTISTERY--GATES--ALTAR.] + +Adjoining the cathedral is the church of +San Giovanni+, the baptistery +of the city, founded in 6th cent., and repaired and restored in 1293 by +Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal building, 94 ft. in diameter, +covered by a cupola and lantern built in 1550. Three celebrated bronze +gates, of admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S. +side (fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and, +after twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The +architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446, +and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V. +Danti, in 1571--a work full of expression. The N. gate is by Lorenzo +Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished (modelled and +cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty compartments, +representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three statues above, +and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, a fellow-pupil of Michael +Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the eastern end, facing the +cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael Angelo said was worthy to +form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel of art was commenced by +Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and finished, with the exception +of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when Ghiberti died, and left the +remainder to be completed by his pupils, among whom were the brothers +Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, representing as many scenes from +the Old Testament. In grouping, drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures +are truly admirable. The perspective is well sustained; the distant +objects being done in low, the nearer objects in middle, and those close +upon the eye in high relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by +Sansovino, who, when he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling; +but Danti, in 1560, produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a +century afterwards, are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino's model. + +The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble +pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes +of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the +soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing +the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G. Gaddie, 13th cent. To the +right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419), +by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, placed here in +1658, and attributed to G. Pisano. The silver altar of the Baptistery is +kept in the "Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata del Duomo" (behind the +east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen any day from 9 to 12, +for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long series of years from +1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents in bold +relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 ft. long +by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in 1452, +weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs. + +[Headnote: THE BIGALLO.] + +Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the very +beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to Orcagna, +enclosed with iron gates by F. Petrucci. The oratory contains an image +of the Virgin by A. Arnoldo, 1359; and a predella, with paintings, by +Ghirlandaio. + + +OR SAN MICHELE. + +Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del Duomo +and della Signoria, is the +Or San Michele+, built at first of undressed +stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or horreum. Having +been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 under the +direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the commonwealth. To +Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to transform the lower +part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper storey was converted +into government offices. Round the building, in deep niches, are statues +in simple attitudes and of noble dignified forms, the result of a decree +that each trade should bear the expense of furnishing one statue, which +should be the protector and supporter of its own profession. St. Luke, +by John of Bologna (good specimen of his style), was executed at the +expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. Thomas, by Verrochio, for the +mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by L. Ghiberti, for the guild of +foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by Donatello, for the butchers. John +the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a graceful canopy of Robbia-ware, +for the silk manufacturers. St. George, by Donatello, his noblest work, +for the armourers. St. James, by N. Banco, for the tanners and furriers. +St. Mark, by Donatello, for the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by +Banco, for the blacksmiths and farriers. St. Stephen, by L. Ghiberti, +for the wool-merchants. St. Matthew, by L. Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for +the stockbrokers and money-changers. Statues of four canonised +sculptors, by Banco, for the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by +Banco, for the hosiers. And inside the church, to the left of the altar +of St. Anne, a Madonna, by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and +apothecaries. These statues are considered the finest works of the +ancient Florentine school. Over the niches are the arms of the +respective trades, under graceful canopies. + +In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high altar, +by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino's sacred picture of +the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is "Andreas Cionis pictor +Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359." It is +ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different +pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The +small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light +into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an +admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less +admirably to a Fountain. + + +SANTA CROCE. + +South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the +narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in +the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico +Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on +the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa +Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded +Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is +according to the old design of S. Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and owes its +erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an English +gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in 1871. The +interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute Gothic +arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, are of +rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread out on +the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the +display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire +length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the +transepts 128 feet. + +[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO--DANTE. MACCHIAVELLI--KETTERICK--COUNTESS OF +ALBANY.] + +Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St. +Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by +Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main +entrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place of +Michael Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument +was designed by G. Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael +Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by B. Lorenzione, +one of the three. Next follows the great marble monument by S. Ricci, in +1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in exile at Ravenna in 1321, +in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri +(d. 1803), by Canova, in 1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this +monument is an elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470. +4th. Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi, +in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707, +raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St. +John and St. Francis, by A. Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone by +Donatello; and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John +Ketterick, Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a +mission from Henry V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument +to L. Bruni (d. 1444), by B. Rossellini. The Virgin, above, is by +A. Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of P. A. +Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. Veneziani. Turning +to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in London, 1859), and +a slab on the ground, with an inscription by Boccaccio, in honour of the +poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the Chapel of the Castellani, with +frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of Giotto), and reredos by +Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; at each side sarcophagi +of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard and St. Francis, by L. +della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the Countess of Albany, +widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, 1824; age, 72 +years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the Countess of Albany +follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos painting by +Giotto, frescoes by T. Gaddi, and a Pietà by Bandinelli. + + A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the + cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the + sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from + the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes + and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of T. + Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the extremity of + the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance is a + shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the altar, + admirable specimens of L. Robbia's terra-cotta work. The large relief + is considered one of Robbia's masterpieces. The small door to the + right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo were + kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two + mausoleums--one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another + attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression. + +[Headnote: GIOTTO'S FRESCOES.] + +Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) frescoes +of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second chapel, +frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte chapel, is, to +the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory of the wife of +Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory of their +daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or the first to +the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with reredos by A. +del Sarto. On the walls +Giotto's best frescoes+, representing the +stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the +Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S. Francesco, is +by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and death +of San Francesco. + +_Chapels of the Choir._--Over the high altar, painting by Andrea +Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by Agnolo +Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and the life +of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much importance, +excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in fresco by Luigi +Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with frescoes on the roof, +painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre Franceschini, surnamed _il +Volterrano_. This chapel contains five mediocre statues by Francavilla, +and two large paintings on wood by Alessandro Allori, and is also richly +decorated with beautiful marbles. In the adjoining chapel, belonging to +the Bardi family, is a crucifix by Donatello, one of his earliest and +best works, yet not equal to that of his rival Brunelleschi in S. Maria +Novella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska +mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the +composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. Having arrived at +the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the north aisle, to +avoid confusion it is better to return to the main entrance, and walk up +the north aisle, commencing with the monument and resting-place of + +[Headnote: GALILEO--BARTOLINI'S LAST WORK.] + +GALILEO GALILEI, + +who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaph +is his bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows +the monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G. Lani (1770), by +Spinazzi,--on the column before this monument is a Pietà by A. Bronzino; +4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat pyramid; 5th, to Vitt. +Fossombroni, by L. Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to Karolus Marzupinus, the +learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by D. Settignano, 1450; +7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to _Raffællo Morghen_, the +illustrious Neapolitan engraver, a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti. +Fronting it, on the column, is the monument to L. B. Alberti, the last +work of Bartolini. + +To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the +cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this +enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi's best works. +To the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing +the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion +and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco +of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782. +The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the +refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli +which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo. + + +THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OR BARGELLO. + +At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the Piazzas +Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the +National Museum+, in the Palazzo del +Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two Dominican +friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, according to +the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. When, in the +17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the seat of the +head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it was chosen +for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1 fr. Free on +feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the escutcheons +of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground floor are +filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon cast in +1636, and Donatello's seated lion, the +Marzocco+, or the +Arms of +Florence+, a seated lion supporting a shield with its left paw. Ascend +to the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in the court. It was built +by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, are two bells, one cast +in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni in 1670. + +[Headnote: SCULPTURE--MICHAEL ANGELO--BOLOGNA--CELLINI.] + +_First saloon._--All labelled. Principal objects--By _Michael Angelo_, +Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an unfinished group +of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. G. da Bologna, +Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, illustrating +Music and its effects, chiefly by L. Robbia and Donatello. _Second +room._--Furniture and glass ware. Wax group by Zumbo. _Third hall_, the +audience chamber of the Podestà.--Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled +ware. _Fourth hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in +which prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are +chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east +wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master +Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by +Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is +thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see +them must request the door to be opened. _Fifth saloon._--Two triptychs +by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock crystal by Cellini, Bologna, and +N. Pisano. Wood carving by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to +the second floor.) _Saloons 6 and 7._--Sculptures by the best Italian +artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the +sixth saloon, Donatello's David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the +centre, a Child by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by Bologna. David, +by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by Pollaiolo, representing the +Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on the right by Ghiberti, and +the other on the left by Brunelleschi, prepared for the competition for +the doors of the Baptistery of Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fine +ornament by Donatello. At the beginning of the third wall is a large +bas-relief by V. Dante, representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert; +and below it, another representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are +followed by a cabinet full of sketches by the best artists of the 15th +and 16th cents. After these, the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in +Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and his model in bronze of the Perseus, +under the loggia. Ascend now to the second floor by the stair in the +fifth room. 1st room.--Portraits in fresco by A. Castagno (1450), +transferred to canvas a few years ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante, +Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room +on the right.--Fine display of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and +Andrea Robbia. Stained glass window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room +(tower).--Tapestry 17th cent. 4th room (on the left of the +entrance).--French tapestry and collection of coins. In the next two +rooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture+, which +formerly stood in the galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John +the Baptist, by Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano, +1507, the Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room +6, in the centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by +Sansovino. Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St. +Peter, by L. Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John +(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year); +Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall, +bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance +wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a bust +of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a St. John. +Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children +supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna, +by Verrochio. + +[Headnote: FLORENCE. LA BADIA--HOUSE OF MICHAEL ANGELO.] + +At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, is ++La Badia+, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines; +rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by +Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good +monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome +door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the +right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On +the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In +the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni, +d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of +Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by G. Vasari, +and in the Cappella de' Bianchi, a Madonna appearing to St. Bernard, by +F. Lippi. + +A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, is +the house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, a plain building, containing a +collection of paintings, sculptures, and sundry objects connected with +Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care of the State by the last member +of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in 1858. The gallery is open to the +public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 to 3. Catalogue in Italian or +French, ½ fr. The collection is contained in seven rooms, some very +small. In the centre of the first room is a small bust of Michael +Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at different ages. No. 14, +Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in relief, by Michael +Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed terra-cotta figures by the +Robbias, displaying admirably the fine delicate surface of the enamel +peculiar to their productions. Amongst those who have distinguished +themselves in the manufactory of earthenware is Luca della Robbia, +a Florentine goldsmith and statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and +human figures in relief, and architectural ornaments of glazed +earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. The colours are white, blue, green, +brown, and yellow. The art of making these glazed earthen figures +invented by Luca was taught by him to his brothers Ottaviano and +Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his nephew Andrea. The rooms +to the left contain drawings and plans of Michael Angelo, many being the +original sketches of his greatest works. First room right, the principal +room of all, contains the statue of Michael Angelo in a sitting posture, +by Novelli; and around the room sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in +his life. The lower six are in grisaille. The ceiling is painted in +fresco. The next or fourth room contains the family history, illustrated +by twenty-one fresco paintings. In the small cabinet off this room are, +among other things, a two-edged sword with the Buonarrotti arms. In the +fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77, +a cast in bronze of 74, by Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust of +Michael Angelo. Sixth room (the Library), large frescoes, representing +the eminent men of Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room +off, are Etruscan antiquities. + + + San Giovannino, 264. San Lorenzo, 264. The Mortuary Chapel. The + Sagrestia Nuova, 265. Biblioteca Laurentiana. Etruscan and Egyptian + Museum, 267. Santa Maria Novella, 267. Spezeria, 268. See Plan, + near station. + +[Headnote: SAN LORENZO. ROAD TO THE SAGRESTIA NUOVA. UNDERGROUND +CHAPEL.] + +North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and next +the Palazzo Riccardi (see page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino, +rebuilt in the 16th cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life +of Christ, by Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and +Ligozzi. A few yards west from San Giovannino is SAN LORENZO, considered +in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan church of +Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, when it +was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and consecrated +by Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in 1417, during a +festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs of Florence, it +was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, and finished by +Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form of a T, 400 feet +long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. The aisles are +lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian columns. The two +pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in relief, by +Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by Meucci. At +the north transept is a monument in white marble by Thorwaldsen to +Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the mortuary chapel. In +the south transept is a monument to the memory of a daughter of General +Moltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar bears the title and age of +Cosmo I., but his remains repose in a black and white marble tomb in the +subterranean church. [Headnote: MORTUARY CHAPEL.] Those pressed for time +should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. Lorenzo, turn +down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del Canto de' Nelli, +to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse of San Lorenzo, +which gives access to the burial chapel, "Dei Principi," of the Medici +family, and to the still more famous chapel called the _Sagrestia +Nuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every +other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the +left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. Guides offer their +assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan alone can unlock +the doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered with polished +marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant harmony of +colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are continued on the +ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of P. Benvenuti, painted +in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a monument to a member of the +Medicean family, from Cosmo I. to Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son, +G. Gastone (d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the +crypt or lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello +near those of his patron Cosmo I., as well as those of 35 other members +of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of +Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen +cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in +panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these +princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and +built by M. Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I., Duke of Tuscany, to +receive the "great stone" which Joseph of Arimathea rolled "to the door +of the sepulchre" of our Lord; and which had been promised him by the +Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having fulfilled his +promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his predecessor, Cosmo I., +and had it converted into the burial chapel of the Medicean family. +[Headnote: SAGRESTIA NUOVA.] From this chapel a short narrow passage +leads to the +Sagrestia Nuova+, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing +the monuments and mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and +brother of Pope Leo X.; and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and +father of Catherine of Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of +Moses at Rome, are the greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the +edifice was conceived by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were +entrusted in 1521 to Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing. +A formal square chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble, +supported by two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone +called pietra dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the +same tame, flat style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of +Giuliano. He is represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand +gloved and raised. The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which +seems to yield to the pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the +countenance. The two statues reclining on the urn represent Day and +Night. Day is little more than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have +done more would have weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is +heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined. +The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching +expression--the drooping head and the supporting hand are unrivalled in +the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The attitude of +Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding as to have +acquired for it the title of "il pensiero." Beneath are the +personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a +superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest +and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right +limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure +of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought, +an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as +if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the +altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the +right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael +Angelo's, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo. + +[Headnote: BIBLIOTHECA LAURENTIANA.] + +A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of S. Lorenzo +leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by Vasari, to the +Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The books are kept in desks. Open from +9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, 1 fr. This library was founded by +Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil +of the 4th cent. in Roman capitals, not very different in form from the +letters on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a +small quarto, with notes; the notes written in the 5th cent. by the +Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, as his signature attests. This is one +of the most ancient legible manuscript books in Europe of which the +period is authentic. The manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library, +with paintings, was said to be of the 4th cent., of the time of +Constantine. The manuscripts of the middle ages, instead of being in +Roman capitals, are written in letters resembling in some degree the +small Roman printed letter now in use; and, at a still later period, +they are in a running hand. This library also possesses the celebrated +manuscript of the Pandects, supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in +the 6th cent., written in capital letters, which vary a little from the +capitals on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a +large folio book; it was brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. caused an +edition to be printed from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11th +cent. is in a running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of +manuscripts. Many of them are chained to the desks. + +[Headnote: ETRUSCAN MUSEUM.] + +Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza, No. 144, is +the Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free on +Sundays. + +_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The +earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the +entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that +in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the +original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the +Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits +were invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase of +Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near +Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted +by Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, Beautiful +gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From this room a +corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful bronze +statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan mirrors. +_Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of the celebrated +statues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. _Sixth Room_, Etruscan +sculpture. Both of the gems of the collection are in this room--_The +Orator_, a bronze statue above life size, discovered near Lake +Thrasymene; and an _Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 years +buried in the earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years +B.C. From this we enter, by a passage covered with inscriptions, into +the Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the centre, a Scythian war-chariot +(the only specimen known), and by the side of it the remains of the +Egyptian soldier who probably captured the chariot in battle. _Second +Room_, The most interesting object here is the fresco of the _Last +Supper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when only twenty-two. On the border of St. +Thomas's dress are the date and name. In the last great hall are +sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, idols, mummies, portraits, and +tabernacles. + +[Headnote: S. MARIA NOVELLA.] + +Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral +and S. Lorenzo, is the church of +Santa Maria Novella+, facing the +piazza of the same name, adorned with two large obelisks of Serravezza +Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine lilies in bronze, by G. Bologna, +1608. + +[Headnote: RUCELLAI CHAPEL--GHIRLANDAIO--BRUNELLESCHI.] + +This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and +finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L. Alberti, and erected at +the expense of G. Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on the frieze, +"Joannes Orcellarius, 1470." Affixed to it are gnomonic instruments, +made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco over the +principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a pupil of +Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a +remarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco +attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the +northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or +right transept, up some steps, is the +Rucellai Chapel+. On the reredos +of the altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his +masterpiece. The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high +altar, are covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D. Ghirlandaio, +nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by B. +d'Agnola, and the windows by G. Fiorentino. In the chapel on the left, +or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden _Crucifix by +Brunelleschi_. A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up +some steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A. Orcagna and his +brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The +open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where, +immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin, +by L. Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by G. Fortini. +A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens into the cloister called +the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the walls, by Paolo Uccello, +1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted in green. Here the keeper, +for a few sous, opens the door leading into the Cappella degli +Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by the attendants of +Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling and the left wall are +covered with admirably conceived and executed frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, +while those on the right wall are by Simone Memmi. Adjoining is the +Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by Cigoli, Allori, Tito, +Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th cent., illustrative of +the history of the Dominicans, with views of Florence in the background. +At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or pharmacy +of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a red liquor +called Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in taste the +liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. It is also +made and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains some +beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by +Spinello Aretino. + + + The Santissima Annunziata, 268. San Marco, 270. Picture-Gallery of + San Marco, 270. Academy of Fine Arts, 271. Galleria dei Lavori in + Pietre Dure, 273. North-east side of Plan. + +From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, leads +straight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima Annunziata_ the +only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at 12; +but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 P.M. On the right side of the +Piazza is the Spedale degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by +Brunelleschi, and ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with +pretty terra-cotta figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre +of the square is an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by +Bologna, in 1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The +Church +of the Annunziata+ was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria. +At the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirable +frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption +by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J. Pontormo, 1516, pupil +of A. del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, 1513; +a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next picture, an +Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; a Nativity by +A. Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del Sarto; Children being +Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite Filippo Benizzi; a Dead +Child recalled to life by touching the Bier of Filippo; the Cure of a +Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by Lightning who had insulted +Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By Rosselli: Filippo assumes +the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also the tomb of Andrea del +Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini. + +[Headnote: THE ANNUNZIATA--NARTHEX FRESCOES. SACRED PICTURE.] + +The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S. Gallo. +Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the +windows are almost all by C. Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle are +five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short +transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a +cupola painted by B. Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right transept is +the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately behind the +high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by B. Agnolo (1543), is +the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who +constructed this chapel for himself, and ornamented it with some of his +best works. Under the organ in the second chapel is an Assumption by +Perugino. In the third chapel is a Crucifixion by Stradano, his best +work. In the fourth, a copy of Michael Angelo's "Judgment Day," by +Allori. Next it, and to the left of the main entrance, is the chapel and +shrine of the _Annunziata_, built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by +forty-one silver lamps and one gold lamp glittering among costly +polished stones. Over the altar is an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro +Cavallini (d. 1364), said to have been done by angels. This picture is +shown only once a year; but a duplicate of it, also by Cavallini, is in +San Marco, on the wall to the right on entering. Over the altar is an +"Ecce Homo," by An. del Sarto, in silver. Adjoining is the cloister +built by S. Pollaiolo. Over the door opening into the church is a "Holy +Family," by A. del Sarto, a production in the highest style of +excellence, called the Madonna del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the +background seated on a sack. The other fresco paintings in the cloister +are by Poccetti, A. Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650), +all displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is +also the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of "St. Luke painting the +Virgin," over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by +Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito. + +[Headnote: S. MARCO--PICTURE-GALLERY.] + +By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the +Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the +Church of S. Marco+ +(standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence with _San Marco_, erected +in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by Michelozzi. Interior.--Over central +door a "Crucifixion" by Giotto. First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before +the Cross by S. di Tito, and an Annunciation by P. Cavallini (covered). +Second altar, Madonna and Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here +a small door opens into the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of +Christ by Novelli, and of S. Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the +high altar is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito, +Empoli, Poccetti, and Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of +S. Antonino, with frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a +painting by Bronzino. Between the second and third altars on this the +left side of the church, are the graves of the scholar Pico della +Mirandola, d. 1494; the poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of +Poliziano, d. 1494, tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the +right of the main entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, of +St. Mark. Open from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15th +and 16th cent. this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop +Antonino (d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo +Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo +della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in this +convent. Among the very fine frescoes are--On the door of the church, +left hand wall, "St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth," +B. Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, "Crucifixion," with St. Dominic, +B. Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church opens into the +refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing food to St. +Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L. Credi. Above is a +"Crucifixion" by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in the south corner of the +east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a large fresco of the +Crucifixion by B. Angelico. A very famous work. The crucifix on the left +is by B. Montelupo, and the other by his son. The door in the middle of +the east wall gives access to the picture-gallery in the upper storey. +At the foot of this stair is a grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo) +by Ghirlandaio, who has dressed the company in the costume of the +brotherhood. From this ascend to the first floor to what were the cells +or rooms of the monks, ranged on each side of a narrow passage +ornamented with paintings in fresco. At the head of the stair is a very +beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, and also by him, on the +opposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the Cross. Opposite the +Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells of the right +corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. Benedetto, +and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, Fra. +Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, banners +used for Dante's festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by Benedetto. In +the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, Cosmo de' Medici +(Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait is by Pontormo, +"The Jesus of Nazareth" is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the beautiful fresco +by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by Angelico. In the +third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an "Adoration" and an +"Annunciation." In the fourth, also by him, other two famous pictures on +wood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the _Coronation of Mary_. Turning +to the right we find all the cells (as far as that of Savonarola), with +paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some pupil of Angelico. In the middle of +this corridor is the beautiful Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of +B. Angelico. At the end, in a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the +wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: a Virgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. della +Robbia; the bust of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by +Bastianini; and a sketch of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the +two little cells at the side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved +some manuscripts, a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him; +as also his portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the +Piazza della Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his +companions. Proceeding along the corridor, in which there are no cells +on the right for some distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto, +the best being a "Coronation" in the third cell. + +[Headnote: ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS.] + +At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via +Ricasoli, is the entrance to the +Academy of Fine Arts+. Open from 9 +till 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. In +the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. della +Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew of +Robbia, and Bologna's models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and of +the Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in stucco, to +the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, left hand, +a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the large pictures, +with 124 paintings, by the following artists: M. Albertinelli, A. +Allori, B. Angelico, Spinello Aretino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti, +F. Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese, +A. Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, Credi, Curradi, C. Dolci, I. Empoli, Gen. +da Fabriano, A. and T. Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto, +Ligozzi, Fra. F. Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco, +S. P. Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D. Passignani, Perugino, F. Pesellino, Fra. +P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C. Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. del +Sarto, L. Signorelli, G. A. Sogliani, A. Squazelli, Santi di Tito, +Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the Baptism of Christ, +by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator was painted by +Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. 115, by +Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the unearthly +expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for many hours +without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is followed by a +chamber communicating with the +Tribune+, built in 1875, for the +celebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael Angelo when 28 years +of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza della Signoria, +where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door opens into the +Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The artists of a +large number are unknown. The others are by B. Angelico, S. Aretino, +M. Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, B. Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da +Bologna, S. Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A. Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio, +Bicci di Lorenzo, G. Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of the +small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already +named, the most important being Fra. and B. Angelico, who, with Sandro +Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di Credi, +are better represented here than anywhere else. The most remarkable are +41, "The Day of Judgment," by Fra. Angelico. 13, A "Nativity," by L. di +Credi; and 18, Portraits of two Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or +Perugino. Beyond this is a collection of original designs in a room +called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and +12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, 10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19, +Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani. + +From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri +Moderni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six rooms. +The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello +Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del +Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517 +to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a +good state of preservation. + +[Headnote: MOSAICS--GALLERIA DEI LAVORI IN PIETRE DURE.] + +Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, is +the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from 10 +to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases, +specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the +manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with +explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and +alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli, +and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for +sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous +establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are +sold here. + + +THE PALACES OF FLORENCE. + +The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and gloomy +aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 to +4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist of +coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and +contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain +wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets, +while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near +the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a +"cantina," just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through, +whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those +that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted +over this niche "Vino é Olio." The empty bottle, with the money, having +been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the +first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and +barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with +bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of +the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two +different forms--a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile nearly +semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the interstice +between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the palaces is by +a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court surrounded by an +arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the highest +storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are decorated, and +the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and gilded, and +contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of thin bricks, +either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or _spina di pesce_ +fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces contain collections of +works of art open to the public on certain days. [Headnote: PALAZZO +VECCHIO.] Of these the best are--first, the +Palazzo Vecchio+, in the +Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is +surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an +excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy +court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi, +substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet in +circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat +little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa +Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and +keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take +first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber, +170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540, +who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling +illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the +second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de' +Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The +lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala +d'Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door +is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala +d'Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman +history. It communicates with the Cappella S. Bernardo, beautifully +painted in imitation of mosaic by R. Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel of St. +Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de Toledo, +painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow passage), +is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an adjoining +chamber painted by Poccetti. + +[Headnote: DANTE'S HOUSE.] + +North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the +Via +S. Martino+, in which is a house with a marble slab over the door, +bearing the following inscription: "In questa casa degli Alighieri +nacque il Divino Poeta." --_Dante._ He was married to Gemma in +S. Martino, a humble little church close by, in the +Via dei Magazzini+. +The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch's Laura) lived in the Palazzo +Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni delle Bande +Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo I. + +[Headnote: PALAZZO STROZZI--CORSINI--RICCARDI.] + +In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays from 11 +to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, rings, +and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery on the +first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and comfortably +furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on a card. The +two most remarkable are--+Portrait+ of one of the ladies Strozzi by +Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, "La Puttina," by +Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the Piazza +S. Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column of Oriental +granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to Cosmo I. by Pius IV. +A short way down the Arno (see plan), at No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the +Palazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by G. Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The +collection of paintings, contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on +Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via +Parione. + +Next to the church S. Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is +the Prefettura della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the Palazzo +Riccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the +Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by +Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici +till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row +of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base, +rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the +projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is +composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the +sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain +beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the +Biblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered with +most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by +lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from +12.30 till 2. + +Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the Church +of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose the +remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the centre +of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The frescoes in +the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by Giovanni and +Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by Ghirlandaio. A little +way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti is the Hospital +S. Giovanni di Dio, founded by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in +which he lived and died stood on the site of the present No. 21 Borgo +Ognissanti. + +[Headnote: PARK OF FLORENCE--VILLA CAREGGI--PALAZZO TORRIGIANI.] + +At the west end of the town, near the +Porta Prato+, is the Cascine or +Park of Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much +frequented in the afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between +the Porta Prato and the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is +the hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles north from the +railway station by the Romito road is the Villa Careggi, built by +Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which he died on August 1, 1464, +as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th of April 1492. At the Ponte +alle Grazie, the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio, is the Palazzo +Torrigiani, built by Baccio d'Agnolo, containing a valuable collection +of paintings, accompanied with catalogues. Open daily excepting +Saturdays and Sundays. + + +FIESOLE. + +At the east side of the town, by the +Via Alfieri+ or +Pinti+, is the +Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, the +latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S. Gallo. +From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, the +modern _Fiesole_, 3 miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, on +the summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to +Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it +is an easy walk of about 2½ miles. See the excellent map of the environs +(Dintorni) of Florence, published by the "Istituto Topografico +Militare," 1 fr. Beyond the Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the +left or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa +Palmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the +road ascends between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent +of S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The church +contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by Credi; a St. +Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B. Angelico. +Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many years +by Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towards +the Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, +rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesole +is rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, the +beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi or +Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the +place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. A short way +beyond, the road enters the Piazza of _Fiesole_ (pop. 11,500. _Inns:_ +Locanda Firenze; Trattoria l'Aurora), famous for views and +stone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, +dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S +Miniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop +Salutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The +frescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue +of St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. +In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The +road passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed +of huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and +some of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the +commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a +Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of +S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble. + +[Headnote: S. SALVI--VENCIGLIATO--SETTIGNANO.] + +S. SALVI. VENCIGLIATO. SETTIGNANO.--1¼ mile east from the Porta +S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is S. Salvi, containing a +Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the refectory. From S. Salvi northwards +to the Via Settignano, which follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the +road to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its +union with the Frassinaia, is the Castle of Vencigliato, founded in the +10th cent., 5 miles north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on +the summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored +at the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the +part of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is +Settignano, the birthplace of Michael Angelo. + +Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. The +wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. The +straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposed +for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought by +the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited straw +to the hatters. + +The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally +the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an +inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of +ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very +nourishing to those who can digest them. + + Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of + Florence. (See Map on page 199.) + + To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence, + pop. 11,000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east. + Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr., + guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, + about 5½ miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At + Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20 + fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having + visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15 + miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles + from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for + Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to + Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli + from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena. + +[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO.] + + A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the + Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills + crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, + intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents + tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the + sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher. + Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton's + description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. lines 131-159, it possesses + that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas + conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a "woody + theatre" of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in + ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang + from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with + thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. "Higher than their tops" an + occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on + the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled colours mixed, + from which there is a "prospect large" over foliaged hills, and the + wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church + and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by + a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a + winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically + situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola + decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who + excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of + imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the + last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1 + hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that + shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val + d'Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of + the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the + villages of Poppi and Bibbiena. + +[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA.] + + The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, a Calabrian + anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley + surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a + hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro + Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses + an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the + ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of + Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, a lofty rock + towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless + pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed + out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St. + Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a + covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in + which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body, + marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion. + From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the + diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12,000, whence rail either to + Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive + from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful. + ++Florence+ is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, +Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52 +frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black's _South France_, East +half, page 233. + +Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto, +and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d class, 23 +frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, and +Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. 45 c.; 2d class, +7 frs. 15 c. See the "Indicatore Ufficiale." To the price given in the +Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be added. + + +[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI.] + ++Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.+ + + Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. Map, page 199. + ++Genoa.+--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the +busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. from Genoa and 2½ m. E. +from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley +of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels. +Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at +Busalla, 14¼ m. N. from Genoa and 89¼ m. S. from Turin. Busalla is +situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest +which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here +also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35 +in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390 +yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous +schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been +hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel +at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia. +33½ m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena, +a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15, +1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and the +Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and +their general killed. Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera, +and +Pavia+. + +[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA.] + +47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is +Alessandria+, pop. +30,000, 234¼ m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, +and Pistoja. See Black's _South France_, East half. See map, page 199. + + At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready. + _Hotels:_ L'Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in + compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding + 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the + modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal + statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di + Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, + was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually + at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the + neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June + 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first + lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From + Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the + minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34¾ m. + E. from Turin, and 68¾ m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives at + +[Headnote: ASTI.] + + +Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey's Market, of the Latins), + a place of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d'Oro. Celebrated for its + sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine + Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built + upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic + columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta + Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting + on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born + here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an + architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood + are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs. + + From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct + over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at + Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82½ m. S. + (page 183), and to Cuneo, 46½ m. S.W. (page 183). + + Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking + the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. died + in 1823. + + For +Turin+, see Black's _South France_, East half. Loop-line to + Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. farther west, in + the Waldensian valleys. See Black's _South France_, East half. + + + + ++Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.+ + +By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBÉRIEUX, CULOZ, +AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuation +of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria +(page 279). + + + +Part First.+--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, + 13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second.+--MODANE TO TURIN, 58½ miles. + Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min. + + _Time-tables._--In England, see under "London to Turin" in the + Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, + which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station + of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of + their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and + Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf. + For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and + from Macon to Turin, map, page 26. + + +PART I.--PARIS TO MODANE. + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{ }{431} ++PARIS.+ In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon +Station is the Grand Hôtel de l'Univers, and under it a Café Restaurant. +A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good restaurant also in the +station. For the first 274 m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to +26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At +Montereau, 49½ m. from Paris (p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not +the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5 +min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p. 19) +the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon +(p. 26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the +Marseilles line, and goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At +Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a +loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. +(See map, p. 27; and for description, Black's _France_, North half). +5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of +Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Ambérieu+, 316¼ m. S.E. from Paris, +and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and +the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the +Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with +Lyon, 32½ m. west. From Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. +through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important +quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhône. Between +Ambérieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of the +Jura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt. +Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart. +The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of +Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to +Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche. + +[Headnote: LAGNIEU.] + +8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop. +3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3 m. S.W., on south side of +Rhône. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and a +lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily +approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the +Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto. + +From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after +St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild and imposing. +At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the train quits the Albarine +and traverses a sequestered valley to + +[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ.] + ++Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with +loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, with +important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris and 19¼ m. +N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu. + +347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N. +from Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station, +771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H. +Folliet; H. Mémon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. +41 m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black's _North France_, and map p. 26. 4½ m. +S. from Culoz and 10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. +above the sea, on the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by +row-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view +of the lake, Pope Celestin was born. + +Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to 3 m. wide, +and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by the steep ridge +of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat, +2070 ft., and immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, +5302 ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., +after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the +lake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the +summits of the ridge Mont d'Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain +of Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about +4 hrs. + + The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The + lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad, + carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel. + + +[Headnote: AIX-LES-BAINS. HOTELS. CABS.] + +{362}{69} ++AIX-LES-BAINS+, 850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop. +6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending +to the railway station. First-class hotels--their pension is from 12 to +20 frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. +On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the +Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the +_Hotels:_ *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the end +of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. Second-class houses: in the parallel +street, the R. Genève, behind the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand; +*Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is +the office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons +steamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. +de l'Etablissement. In front, the H. de l'Arc Romain. To the left, in +the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain. +A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, the +H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-class +houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. des Bergues. + +On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, a really +splendid first-class house. Below it is the H. Beau-Site, also a new but +a smaller first-class house. + +The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the +left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, "Poissons frais." + +Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behind +the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park. + +_Cabs or Fiacres._--One-horse cab--3 frs. for the first hour; every +succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab--for first hour, +4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; per day, 20 frs. Riding +horses--two hours, 4 frs. Donkeys--one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs. + +[Headnote: SPRINGS.] + +The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted up +for the external application of the water, very little being drunk. +Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind +the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½ +fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°, +114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime, +magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath +with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent., +with the inscription "Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit." Behind the +arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de +Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome stone stair of +fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads up +to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor, +just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens into what is called the +Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recently +restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l'Arc Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish +church, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphur +springs, situated a little way out of town. + +The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above +the sea, and 45 min. distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Château +de Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for +indigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngeal +affections. + +Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral water +establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all within +a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromine +and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from the town +by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring, +frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric +diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach. + +[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.] + ++Excursions from Aix-les-Bains.+--The steamer on certain days makes the +tour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief +is the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two +men, 9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; Châtillon, 14 +frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than six +passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake--one horse, +11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs. + +The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in +1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft. +long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The +interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white +fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near +Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of +Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on +the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of +Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the +right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in +the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed. + +About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of the +lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reach +it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and +horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The +fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the +village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which +rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p. 282). + +_Other Excursions._--To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft., +good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. the +Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocher +de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours. +The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by mule-path; +there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes, +3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the defile of the Combes and +the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft. + +[Headnote: GROTTO OF BANGES. LE CHÂTELARD.] + ++Aix to the Grotto of Banges+, _by Gresy and Cusy_.-- Seat in car there +and back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty +waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to +an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on +a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On +the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of +St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular +obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de +Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in +between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de +Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance, +approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites. + +This road may be continued to +Le Châtelard+, 1¾ hour from the bridge, +2500 ft. above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This +is the capital of the "Pays des Beauges," occupying a plateau 13 m. long +and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and surrounded +by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the +manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants, +of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical +position, resembles Le Beage (p. 84). + +The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which +separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the +Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W., +and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de +Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges. + +At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., whence a +diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by Brogny, +Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p. 27). + + ++Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.+ + + 21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is + +Lovagny+, the station to alight at to visit the "Galeries des Gorges" + of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take + the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where + refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge, + which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of + Pfäffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an + average 72 ft. above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven + into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. + apart. + + 3½ m. farther by rail is + + +Annecy+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office; + Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, + and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie. + + The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the + Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times + daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages + of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28 m. N., on the road to + Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320). + + This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the + north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in + Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of + Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of + the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier + is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, + both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel + erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, + his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel. + + The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar + in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue + Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, + entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which + Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel + street, behind the Rue de l'Évêché, on the site of that house next the + Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the + garden around the Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains + a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis + Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748. + + The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the + sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of + which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. + above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where + there are a comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l'Abbaye, and guides. + + Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east from + Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of his + life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small + square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his last walk + on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died + two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau's house are seen a little + farther south, above the village of Veyrier. + +[Headnote: LESCHAUX.] + + South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the + birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the + hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the + right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the + south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the + entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits + passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. + In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is + Semnoz, 4148 ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the + straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from + Annecy, and 14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the + village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable + inn. Duingt, at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated + village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p. 291.) + + 3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny, + where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became + successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of + Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la + Caille, 18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge, + 212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the + torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille. + +[Headnote: CRUSEILLES.] + + 16½ m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the + sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586 + ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535 + ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva. + + +[Headnote: CHAMBERY.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{370¾}{60¼} ++CHAMBERY+, pop. 20,000, and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving +late should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to +Turin. _Hotels._--Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain. +France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d'Italie, the Poste and Europe, +near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it +is the Temple Protestant. + ++Chambery+ is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. The +first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station is +the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre, +opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. It +consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with a +statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne is +the +Château+, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in +1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road round +from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within the +precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having attached to it one of +the old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of +160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by +36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to the +Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History Museum is in the +Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, and +overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite the tower is the +Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The three tall +windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered with +stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between the +nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blue +ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the +14th, 15th, and 16th cents. + +[Headnote: CHURCH OF LEMENC.] + +The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de +Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais +de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a +bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on +the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la +Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is of +the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is of the 7th +cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet in +diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upper +Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint +Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago. +His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children. +In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of +Madame de Warrens. + +[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU.] + + +Excursions.+--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on + the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery + by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere + cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It + contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and + hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and + of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are + his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame's bedroom, and + the one over the dining-room Rousseau's. From the garden the view + extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in + between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the + Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the + foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge + of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 + min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes + (p. 284). + + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{376}{55} ++LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the +chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and +back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by +a partial landslip of Mt. Granier. + + +{378}{53} ++MONTMÉLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to +Grenoble, for which change carriages (p. 338). + + +[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY.] + +{358¼}{45¾} ++ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its +station. _Inns:_ At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; +Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences +to Annecy, 28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through +Faverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice +on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine +passes (see p. 321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage +to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous +rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other. +These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the +pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places +only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards +cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be +seen within 3 m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated +more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too +steep and arid. + + +[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE.] + +{332}{39} ++AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch +to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen. + + +{409}{22} ++LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. +Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon. + + +{414½}{16½} ++SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc; +Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the +mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The +arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452. +In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the +saline thermal springs of Echaillon. + + +{421}{10} ++ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the +sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near +the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next +station is La Praz, 6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea. + + +[Headnote: MODANE.] + +{431}{ } ++MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is +really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, +and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large +refreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ Hôtel +International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as +carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of +the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and +Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is +charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, +and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day. + The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no + part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is + reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ per + cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and + 5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated. + + From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than + Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a + little over 5, by Bardonnecchia. + + +[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES.] + ++Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.+ + + From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pass of Mont Cenis+ to + Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the + Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by + his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, + connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is + Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the + left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, + and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the + Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg, + pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 + ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc + the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are + twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft. + above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13 m. from + Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above + the lake, which is 1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good + trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a + naturalist. 10 m. from Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of + Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La + Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the + descent becomes more rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of + Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of + Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page + 291). + + [Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the + Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg.] + + ++PART II.--MODANE TO TURIN.+ + + See Map of Mont Cenis Railway. + + miles from MODANE + miles to TURIN + +{ }{58½} ++MODANE.+ At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia +Railway Company. + The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best + time-table for Italy is the "Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade + Ferrate," 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the + railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d'Aspetto. W.-C's., Cessi, or + Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking + carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. + Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata. + + +{5}{53½} ++BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della +Stazione, and in the town the Hôtel de France. + Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile + country than that above Modane. + + +{12}{46½} ++OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. _Inn:_ Dell' Alpi Cozzié, at the +station. + At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by + Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte + Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, + who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before + the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii. + cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the + road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now + Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343). + + +{21¾}{36¾} ++CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views. + + +{25½}{33} ++MEANA+, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having +traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at +Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to +Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil. + This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who + inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft. + above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch + erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with + Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all + are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the + llth cent. + + 12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the + foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the + plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa, + founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially + repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government + intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path + leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S. Pietro, + with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea. + + +TURIN, + +pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and +490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe +Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans. +When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he +might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily +from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of +Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it +was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of +Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S. Giovanni +Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I. +so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became +necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass through +spacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome +arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the +Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets ramifying southwards from +this. + +_Hotels._--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less +expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of +the principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams. +The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side +of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via +Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the +English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by +Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 +Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via +delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: +H. *Suisse; H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France +et Concorde, Via dell' Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di +Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana +Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d'Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange. + +_Cabs._--One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1 fr. First +half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The +course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1¼ fr. From the central station to any +part of the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr. +additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a +cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway +carriage, 1 sou. + + [Map: Turin] + +Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams run +from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond the +suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of the +steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no more +than four may occupy one seat. + +[Headnote: STATIONS. POST OFFICE. BOOKSELLERS.] + +_Stations._--The most important is the +Central Station+, +a well-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet on +the departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and Robert +Stephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome Corso +Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having at +the eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western the +model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and the +cattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimo +d'Azeglio, a poet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helped +to throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza +Carlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to the +Piazza Castello, by the Piazza S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze +equestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele +Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in +1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the +west end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello +by the Via Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of +plan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza +dello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in +the shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn +granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white +marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter +make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, +and Grandi. + +_Post and telegraph offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the +side of the Palazzo Carignano (p. 297). Stamps are sold at all the +tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P. Castello, and connected +with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and bordered +on both sides with well-stocked shops. + +_Booksellers._--For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For +guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via di Po. + +Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal +streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in +all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The +same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass. + +_Theatres._--See list on plan. A short way east from the central +station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in +1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio +Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue, +a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas. + +[Headnote: SIGHTS.] + +_Sights._--The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the +"Accademia delle Scienze," with one side to the Piazza Carignano and +another to the Via dell' Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is the +Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogical +collections. The white marble statue in front represents the +philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house +opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: "II Conte +Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi mori +il 6 Giugno 1861." The armoury, enter by door headed "Reale Armeria +Antica" under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal +Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni. +A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All the +above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The only +one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side +street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram from +the Piazza Castello. + + +[Headnote: PALAZZO DELL' ACCADEMIA. MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.] + ++The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.+ + +The Palazzo dell' Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was +built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast +earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and +cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more +massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second +story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen +rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days free, +when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in two +halls. +Hall 1.+ Left. In the centre, against the wall, under an +inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of the +collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, Rameses II., 1388 B.C. +On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of +Amenophis II., 1565 B.C., and on his left a small black basalt statue of +Amenophis II., the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting +posture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At +the head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II., +in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From this a room +ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts, +friezes, vases, etc. + +Parallel to Hall 1 is +Hall 2+. At the head of this hall, in a sitting +posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 B.C., who was +one of the most powerful of the Pharaohs. + +Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in three +large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left, +is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a table +covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B.C. +A little farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case, +No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. +wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of +Hadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads +to the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a +colossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily +work the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found +at Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician +terracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient +iron ornaments, lamps, etc. + +The +Centre Hall+ contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi, +mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by the +Israelites. + +In the +Third Hall+ are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No. +4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, +The Book of the +Dead+, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain vignettes. +Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of ++Manetho+, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt down +to the 19th dynasty. + +[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.] + +In the second story is the +Picture Gallery+. All the paintings are +labelled. In +Room 1+ are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy, +and battles in which they were engaged. +Room 2.+ In this room are +excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St. +Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descent +from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. +Rooms 3+ and +4+. +Italian pictures, Massimo d'Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90, +a Landscape. +Room 5.+ Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16th +cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127 +and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, Cosimo I. de +Medici. +Room 6.+ J. da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari +(Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting gifts to Solomon; +A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J. Robusti (Il +Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. +Room 7.+ Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; +Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8.+ Enamels and paintings on +porcelain by Constantin of Geneva. +Room 9.+ A small room entirely +filled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 +and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. +Room 10.+ Continuation +of the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232, +Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, +234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord's Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, +Cupids; G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. Barbieri +(Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Return +of Prodigal Son. +Room 11.+ A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal +Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements; +S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce, +276, Head of Madonna; B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old +Bridge across the Po. +Room 12.+ Flemish and German school: Acken +(Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van +des Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and +Gentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of +England; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of +his apotheosis of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. +Room 13.+ +Containing the gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, +and Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri (Guercino), +357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of the +Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, the +figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of the +Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family; +D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost; +Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and child +in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P. Potter, 377, +*Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. +Room +14.+ Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, +Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416, +Resurrection of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; +Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. ++Room 15.+ French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483, +Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Catalogues +sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery. + + +[Headnote: PALAZZO CARIGNANO.] + ++Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.+ + +Opposite the Palazzo dell' Accademia, but a little to the left, is the +Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick; +but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing than +those of the Palazzo dell' Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the +façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the +words, "Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II." Within is a high and spacious +court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting the +Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by +Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built +in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also +p. 293.) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological and +mineralogical collections. Open daily, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days +free. + + +[Headnote: ROYAL ARMOURY.] + ++Royal Armoury.+ + +No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. On other +days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of great +interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filled +chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first room +is "Favorito," the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo Alberto. +Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. In +the large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At the +head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed oval +shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive gold +thread. On five medallions are represented, in _alto-relievo_, scenes +from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school of +Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16th +cent., and was presented to the university of Turin by the Princess +Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword worn +by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of Charles V., and some +beautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at +the end of this hall opens into the "Medagliere del Ré," containing +30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a complete +series of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000 +medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca del +Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., numerous autographs, engravings and +drawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must be +obtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of the +palace-gardens. At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro +Regio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for +2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions. +In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a +plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza +Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance, +turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass +door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a niche +at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse in +marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights of +narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will be +found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, 2 frs. After the guardroom +succeeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and rich +furniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The room +called Maria Theresa's contains some fine china vases. + + +[Headnote: ROYAL PALACE. THE CATHEDRAL.] + ++The Cathedral.+ + +Adjoining the western end of the palace is the +Cathedral San Giovanni +Battista+. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family. +Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, is +the +Cappella del Sudario+ (open till 9 A.M.), a circular chapel, +separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in +1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, +near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the +statues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and +eight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns +of the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six +arches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six +smaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is +composed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising +from the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light +in such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the +appearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold +and silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it +at the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud +(Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when +he laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble +monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy--Em. Filiberto (ob. +1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; and +Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, +the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the +lovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob. +1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the upper +corridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is +San Lorenzo+, +designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but +it is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches. + + +[Headnote: THE CASTELLO.] + ++The Castello.+ + +The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was +erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it +became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II., +Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of whom +it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat of +government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the great +hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, and +another part of the palace by the "Accademia reale di Medicina," who +here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology. + + +[Headnote: MUSEO CIVICO.] + ++Museo Civico.+ + +Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3, +1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. of +celebrated Piedmontese. +2.+ Water-colours, representing landscapes and +historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblong +chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater diameter, and 2 +ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion's +head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glass +frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, a vase, and two +flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presented +in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the United +States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Geneva +arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution by +his widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, it +needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen. + +The rooms from +4+ to +11+ contain modern oil-paintings, some very good, +and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among the +best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion of +Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second story.--Room +12+, Embroidery; ++13+, Miniatures and illustrated MSS.; +14+, Iron work; +15+, Carving +in wood and ivory--notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; +16+, Glass and +majolica; +17+, Italian porcelain; +18+, Busts; +19+, Small +oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glass +from 1300; +21+, Egyptian pottery; +22+, Pottery and stone age. + + +[Headnote: VIA DI PO. UNIVERSITY. MADRE DI DIO.] + ++The Via di Po.+ + +The finest of the streets is the +Via di Po+, which extends from the +Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio +Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares, +as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and +lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in +all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the +pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both +sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the +University, built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by +the Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and +directed by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, +contains 200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman +bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the +Via di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell' Accademia +Albertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. +Open daily. Apply to the custodi. + +The +Piazza Vittorio Emanuele+ is 394 yards long and 121½ wide. In +front, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the Gran +Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, by +Bansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin +after the fall of Napoleon. A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) +is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road +up is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately +above the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, +built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by +one of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, +"The Queen's Vineyard." It is now a government school for the education +of children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, +is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four +pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor +Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a +government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of +minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces, +are topographically arranged. The +Botanical Garden+ belonging to the +university is also here. + + +[Headnote: MONUMENT TO CAVOUR.] + ++Monuments.+ + +In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello, +is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for which he +received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in +1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in +bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic. +Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the +words, "libera chiesa in libero stato." (See p. 294.) The climate of +Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west +is the Piazza S. Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto +(see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable, +almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother +of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead +the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor +animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems +about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering. + +A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is +the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di +Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected +in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the +celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor +Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and +Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group +representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to +this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted +with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From +this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing by +on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S. Domenico, +in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the +Virgin by Guercino. + +[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA.] + +Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La +Consolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three +churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a +miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining +walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances +effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious +Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria +Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit. +Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended +worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the +square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected +in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835. + +In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72 +ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the +ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns +which contributed to the monument. + +[Headnote: CEMETERY.] + +Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo +Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not +worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better. + +A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the +citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the +monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang +a mine at the cost of his own life. + + +[Headnote: LA SUPERGA.] + ++La Superga.+ + +Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the +time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half +an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, +the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram +runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by the +western end of the church, the "Great Mother of God," and descends by +the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent +commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and +opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, +the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga +station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious +restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, +for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is +probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the +main road to Turin. + +The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft. +above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was +commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to +fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the +French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the +duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara. + +Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be +found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first +hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes. +Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white +marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are +worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo +Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., 1701-1773; +towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue; +at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, 1666-1732. In an +adjoining vault children under seven are buried. + +[Headnote: VIEWS.] + +From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery +outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the gallery +round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well +seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the +church. + +The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the +outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of +Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is +bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and +Mont Blanc on the other. + +[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES.] + +Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8 +inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into +milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked "à la +Piedmontese" or "à la fonduta," and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, +make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable +aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of +Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red wine +with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and the +Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long +and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them +is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very +many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal +of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important +silk mills. + +Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to +Genoa, 103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). Turin +to Savona, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p. 183, +and map p. 27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, +Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map +p. 199). + + +THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES. + + (See accompanying Map.) + +The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid +trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants. + +The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼ +miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. from +Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a steam tram +runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second +Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is +near the railway station. + +Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S., +2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This tram +station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station. + +The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the +highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. +They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run +neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains. + +Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail from +Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tré Limoni d'Oro. On +one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the +inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the +river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the +hill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see p. 184). + +The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of +Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long from W. +to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the +isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000. +They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848 +procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were +confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread +themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year +to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories +have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx +of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which +up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a +larger population of Romanists. + + [Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Passes between France and Italy] + +These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat, +barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows of vines +on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple, +pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded +mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only +high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between +the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625 +ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft., +a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell' Agnello or +the Col Traversette, 9680 ft. + +[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS.] + +The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of +the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the +French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as there was constant communication +between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a +great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church, +which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines +had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome; +albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer +to God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of +priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal and +venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all +these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin +adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people, +existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in +1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from "valle densa," +contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first +serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation +of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée IX., Duke of Savoy. By +her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the +Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics +were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly +obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a +complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French +Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent. + +[Headnote: TORRE-PÈLLICE.] + ++Torre-Pèllice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. de l'Ours, good and comfortable, +is situated on the Pèllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by +rail from Turin, 10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of +Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a +considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del +Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village, +with barracks, a "Tempio Evangelico," and several elementary Protestant +schools. + +Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley +enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the +Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for +girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph +office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the +Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and +dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many +Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made +the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant. + +The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is drunk +in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of the +Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360 +ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools. +Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350. + +[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX.] + ++Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des +Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. +walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ hrs. walking, pop. 1520, +Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular. +Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge, +having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718 +ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station, +5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation +may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col, +7576 ft., 17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding +a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly +level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track +joins the char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, +Ristolas, Abriés, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see +p. 344, and map p. 304.) + + +PINEROLO. + +23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is +Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d'Or; Campana; Cannon +d'Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza +d'Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the +chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various +colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music. +The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for +girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary. +The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of +dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club. +_Cabs_--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive +half-hour, 1 fr. + +[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D'ABRIÉS.] + +Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to +Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam +tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. +Perosa+, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, +_Inn:_ H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction +with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop. +760, with a Waldensian chapel and school. + ++Perosa to Mont Dauphin.+--There is a post-road up the Germanasca and +down the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by +Perrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from Perosa and on the S. side +of the Col d'Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin. (For Mont +Dauphin, see p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop. +560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello. +From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and +passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the +Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the +Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from +Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to +Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba +separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and +continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d'Abriés, +8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali, +and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs. +(For Abriés and Mont Dauphin, see p. 344, and map, p. 304.) + +[Headnote: FENESTRELLE. COL DE SESTRIÈRES.] + ++Perosa to Cesanne+, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle, +Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is +Fenestrelle+, pop. 1120, +_Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italian +fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where the +valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4½ m. is Sestrières, +"whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrières, a nearly +level plain 2 m. long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. The +descent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossed +to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from Sestrières" (Ball's _Alps_, p. 36). (For +Cesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under Briançon, p. 333, and map +p. 304.) + + +SALUZZO. + ++Saluzzo+ is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam tram from +the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam tram, passing +Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14 m. +W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on +the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. + +The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and the +Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to +Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble +statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854. +Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town of +considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting various +places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach. + +[Headnote: PAESANA. CRISSOLO. COL DE LA TRAVERSETTE.] + ++Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin+, 65½ m. W. by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la +Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in the +evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., with two fair inns, passing +Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes very +picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing. +After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road reaches the sanctuary of +San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8 m. from Paesana, +4374 ft. + Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the + Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the + opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave, + Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly + after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases--the + +Pian Fiorenza+, 6034 ft., and the +Pian del Ré+, 6625 ft., containing + in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. A little to the S.W. + of the Pian del Ré is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la + Traversette leads N.W. from the Pian del Ré through a hollow covered + with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent + commences. About 300 ft. below the crest and 9564 ft. above the sea + is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by + Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs. + ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is + by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is + La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p. 344, and + map p. 304; also Ball's _Alps_, p. 22.) + + +CUNEO. + +54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is ++Cuneo+, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H. Barra di Ferro; Albergo di +Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S.W.; also +to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. 182 and 279.) + + Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte, + Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l'Arche, the frontier + village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to + Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182.) + + ++Turin to Florence.+ + + 291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and + Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and + through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, + Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d. + + miles from TURIN + miles to FLORENCE + +{ }{291} ++TURIN.+ (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p. 280, and +map p. 199.) + + +{81}{210} ++VOGHERA+, pop. 10,000, on the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H. Italia. Branch to +Pavia, 17 m. N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, +Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th +June 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days. + + +[Headnote: PIACENZA. CATHEDRAL.] + +{117}{174} ++PIACENZA+, pop. 36,000, on the Po. _Hotels:_ S. Marco; Italia; Croce +Bianca. _Cabs_--the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For the +first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. 80 c. + +In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de' Cavalli, +from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and his +son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S. Francesco, and on the +other the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque +Palazzo +del Comune+, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market. +The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows. +The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the +Cathedral+ +(1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior the +arches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d +altar is a picture, by A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the +4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an +altar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling +frescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio's style. The +Coronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The +Cupola+ is divided into +eight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figures +of prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below +are four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt +under the church rests on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former +cathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The +curious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relics +of the earlier edifice. At the W. end of the town is +Sa. Maria di +Campagna+, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On the left of the chief +entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1st +chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and the +Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the +"Marriage of St. Catharine," the faces being portraits of the Pordenone +family, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St. +Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments of +the cupola; those in the pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly +decorated church is _S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic +atrium. Raphael's Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto. + +The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 by +Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now the +Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza is +the site of _Velleia_, a town which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the +3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which have +been deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanations +from the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on the +application of a flame. + + +[Headnote: PARMA--MUSEUM.] + +{153}{138} ++PARMA+, pop. 46,000, on the Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; Croce +Bianca; Leone d'Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered +by the Romans 183 B.C., is a neat clean town of modern appearance, +surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is the +Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo Farnese_, a large +unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind the +Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintings +belonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum of +Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre, +now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of Duke +Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles and +grand public entertainments. + +_The Museum of Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms, +of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia +and Rome. Among the most remarkable, are "The Theft of the Tripoid," in +1st room. In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the +"Tabula alimentaria," a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to the +support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria Louisa, +the first Napoleon's second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the same +staircase is the _Library_, with 150,000 volumes, and some thousands of +MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of which +is Correggio's fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin. + +[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--CORREGGIO.] + +_The Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, and +is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but is +remarkable for the number and value of Correggio's pictures. In +selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters +alphabetically to facilitate reference. + + _Annibal Caracci._--Pietá. _Lodovico Caracci._--Funeral of the Virgin; + the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da + Conegliano._--Two very good pictures. (+Correggio.+)--1. The Madonna + della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna + della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin's hand. 3. _The Madonna + with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight + effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden--this is Correggio's + best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on + canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art. + The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that + covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and + St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully + treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some + critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early + production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the + walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi + the engraver from Correggio's frescoes at Parma.) _Albert Durer._--Man + with a Skull. _Francesco Francia._--Descent from the Cross; the Virgin + enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most + charming). _Garofalo._--Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a + landscape below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni._--A Singing party. + _Murillo._--St. Jerome. _Parmegianino._--The Marriage of St. Catharine + (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with + a music book (marked "incerto" on the frame). _Fra Paola da + Pistoia._--Adoration of Magi. _Pordenone._--Portrait of a Man with an + open book. _Raffaello(?)._--Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and + St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a + work of Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa._--Landscape with Cattle. _Lionello + Spada._--Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine. + _Spagnoletto._--Twelve pictures of Saints. _B. Schidone._--The + Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John. + _Vandyck._--Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady. + _Velasquez._--Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other + portraits ascribed to him). _L. da Vinci._--Sketch of a Female Head. + _Zuccarelli._--River Scene. + +_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other side of +the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called the +Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style; +but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords a +pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo di +Giardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of the town, near +the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is planted +with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town's-people, +both in carriages and on foot. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] + +By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the ++Cathedral+, a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and +14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. +In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an +elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted +by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the +great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one +of Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ (1526-30), with +frescoes representing the _Assumption of the Virgin_, but they are in a +ruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son of +Correggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini. +In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at the +foot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a +poor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he was +archdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported by +thirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes of +the 14th century, and intarsias by L. Biancho. + +[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--S. GIOVANNI.] + +The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with four +deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers of +open galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, the +pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below, +combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its class +in Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rude +sculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting--old, but not of much +value. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble, +and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protected +from the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which the +Parmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, and +supported by a marble lion. +S. Giovanni Evangelista+ (1510), a church +standing near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the +_frescoes painted by Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; they +represent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badly +lighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in the +cathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists +and the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory +above. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of +the sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a +fresco of St. John. In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal +entrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of +Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by +Giacomo Francia (the painter's portrait is seen in the old man to the +left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio's "Night," now at +Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the +entrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four subjects); +and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with his +Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the +adjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of two +children by Correggio. + +[Headnote: S. PAOLO--CORREGGIO.] + +Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della Steccata_, +from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are by +Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and the +Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar a +Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. The +wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good Madonna in +corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is the +church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent of +S. Paolo+, now a school. In this small building are the best preserved +works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the walls +and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, or +Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower or +piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charmingly +portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is painted +over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures in +grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian is +generally to be found in the picture-gallery. + +The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan, +Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used +in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is +Reggio +Emilia+ (pop. 24,000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_--80 c. the +course; 1½ fr. the hour. _Sights_--Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto, +born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went through sixteen editions in +the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, the birthplace of the great +painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa and +back, 14 frs. + + +[Headnote: MODENA. CATHEDRAL--DUCAL PALACE.] + +{185¼}{105¾} ++MODENA+, pop. 31,000. _Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their +omnibuses await the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr. +50 c. the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the hour. + +Modena (_Mutina_, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, is a +clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which serve +the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile. +A canal connects the town with the Panaro, a tributary of the Po, by +which means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained. + +The +Cathedral+, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Its +exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal façade +is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. On +the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columns +resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low, +and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for the +sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At the +entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-size +figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing the +Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as if +they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpit +with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious old +bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side of +the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in the +male line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of the finest in Italy, 315 +feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the name +of Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. At +the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the +Ducal Palace+, an +immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls in +the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open daily +from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures, +amongst which, though there are no _chefs d'oeuvre_, are many good ones. +The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards the +end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including five +Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and the +Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. In +two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by the +old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto's +masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked, +but which the custode will open on application, are some interesting +cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, another of amber, +a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory, +majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a "Presepio," with +numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver. + +The _Library_, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains about +100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS. +placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Roman +and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck at +Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near the gate of that +name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stone +obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below the +surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval tombs. In the +church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of the +Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this artist's works. + +The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is open +to the public daily from the early morning to the evening. + + +[Headnote: BOLOGNA.] + +{208¼}{82¾} ++BOLOGNA+, pop. 91,000. _Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; +del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni; +Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, +the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway +station, without luggage, 1 fr. + +Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plain +near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting is +called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b. +1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) and +Agostino, a man of erudition, who furnished the general plan of the +pictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d. +1642), Domenichino (b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G. +Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, d. 1666), +Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b. +1628, d. 1719); beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the +various churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the +"_Accademia delle Belle Arti_," situated at the north-east end of the +town, near the Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of +the first floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the +artists, and is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. +Cecilia, by Raphael. + + The other best works are:--12. _Guercino_.--St. William; 13, St. + Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. 26. + _Bugiardini_.--Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino + Caracci_.--Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest paintings; + 35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_.--Virgin and Child, with Angels + and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. _Lodovico + Caracci_.--Assumption; 42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the + Virgin and Child; 43. Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. + St. John the Baptist; 47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M. + Desubleo_.--Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75. + _Lavinia Fontana_.--St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. Francia_.--Virgin + and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. Annunciation; 80. Virgin and + Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are several other unnumbered + pictures by this master on frames. 84. _Giacomo Francia_.--Virgin and + Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. 89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an + imitator of Raffaello).--Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da + Cremona_--Descent from the Cross.. 134. _Guido_.--Madonna with the + Protectors of Bologna; 135. Massacre of the Innocents; 136. + Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass's Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of + the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried in processions); 139. + Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. 152. _Raphael_.--ST. + CECILIA, with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the + instruments of secular music lie broken on the ground). This + celebrated composition, painted in 1515, is well known from copies and + engravings. 175. _Elisabetta Sirani_.--St. Anthony of Padua; 176. + Madonna. 181. _L. Spada_.--Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183. + _Tiarini_.--St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. _Perugino_.--Virgin and + Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle Vite_.--Magdalene. 206. + _Domenichino_.--Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; + 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona (the same subject as that + treated by Titian in a picture lately burnt at Venice). 212. + _Unknown_.--Sleeping Child. 291. _Desubleo_.--St. John the Baptist. + 292. _Innocenzio da Imola_.--Virgin and Saints. 294. + _Bugiardini_.--Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da Foligno_).--Virgin + and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius IX.) + +[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--UNIVERSITY.] + +In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour +(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures. +A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library. + +Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430 +students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous, +have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism, +Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe Mezzofanti (d. +1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two languages. From the tower +is a good view of the town. Attached to the University is a Museum of +Antiquities and a Library. The Geological Museum is in a separate +building. From the University, walking towards the leaning towers, we +pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see plan), the oratory of +St. Cecilia, the church of S. Giacomo, and (14) the Palazzo +Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind +of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages. + + [Map: Bologna] + +[Headnote: S. GIACOMO.] + +_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently restored. In +the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, the Virgin on a +Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana's St. Alexis; in the +8th, Innocenzo da Imola's Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, three +pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino +Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the end of +the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, with +Francesco Francia's best work, a "Madonna," the lunette above by Giacomo +Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of the church, +contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini's Presentation in +the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci. + +[Headnote: THE TWO TOWERS.] + +In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia and +St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. During +the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the +commencement of the Strada Donato are the +Two Towers+ (28 in plan), +seen from a great distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_, +commenced in 1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and +ascended by a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence +there is the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in +1110, is 139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, +the Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with, +on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo del' +Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal. +Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various +buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned +with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna. + +[Headnote: S. PETRONIO.] + ++S. Petronio+, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, and +in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are +remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In +the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th +chapel; Sansovino's statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso's +grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows +are said to be from M. Angelo's designs; in the 11th chapel, +a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides, +attributed to Properzia de' Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), who was +at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile is over +this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. On the +floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in 1652. +In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in the +7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, by Tiarini. At +the southern end of the church is (29 in plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, +in the building called the Archiginnasio Antico, originally the +University, before it was removed to its present edifice. Besides the +Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a valuable Museum of +Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and S. Stefano are (17) the _Pal. della +Mercanzia_, the Chamber of Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal +Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the Casino. [Headnote: S. STEFANO.] +Santo +Stefano+ is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and courts, on +the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the Church of the +Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great altar. In the 1st +chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the 2d on the left St. +Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small chapel into the circular +chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the tomb of St. Petronius, +with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, considered to have healing +virtues. This building is thought to have been formerly the baptistery +of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, the principal chapel), +dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small court, called the +Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that at Jerusalem, we +gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which contains four marble +columns said to have belonged to the temple of Isis, and some pictures +by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural paintings in the +sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in the subterranean +chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown which is said to +afford the measure of the Saviour's height. After visiting a cloister, +where the columns show much variety of form, we have made the complete +tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, which are of great +interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano in the Strada +Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers' end, see plan), 2, S. +Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the celebrated +composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side is the +church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for its +collection of pictures. [Headnote: S. BARTOLOMMEO. PAL. ZAMPIERI. +S. DOMENICO. GUIDO'S TOMB.] _San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has some +fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an +"Annunciation," by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by +Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by +Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned +from London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, ½ fr.), although +deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable frescoes +by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of _Ai +Servi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In the 2d +chapel left is a "Touch-me-not," by Albano; and in the 4th, a St. +Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an "Annunciation" by Inno da +Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of ++S. Domenico+, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and died. +The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th. +Interior--2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti. Right of +south transept--the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. Dominic_, with +his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. di Pisa. The +garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. The kneeling +angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the sarcophagus, were by +Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, with its bas-reliefs +illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added until 1532, a work of +Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of the chapel is a fresco by +Guercino, "The Transformation" of St. Dominic. The painting of the Saint +burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is by L. Spada; that of the +Saint recalling a Child to Life is by Tiarini. In a chapel on the right +side of the high altar is the Marriage of Saint Catharine, by Filippino +Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In +the left transept should be noticed the tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on +the wall a portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, considered here an accurate +likeness, though painted 100 years after the death of the saint. +Opposite St. Dominic's chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel +of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of +Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his favourite +lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the Caracci, +executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the reredos of the +altar in this chapel. + +[Headnote: S. PIETRO.] + +Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S. Pietro, rebuilt in 1605, +containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last +painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it. +Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st +chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine +Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In the 1st +chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi's Adoration of the Magi; and in the 5th +chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino; in the +next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the chapel next the entrance, +Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old monuments in the cloisters. East +from the leaning-towers is S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent., +and lately restored. At the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by +Tiarini; in a large chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful +landscape, by F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the +chapel on the left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino's manner. + + +ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA. + +Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the +Annunziata+. +In the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by +L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo +Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in +the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia. + +[Headnote: MADONNA DI S. LUCA. THE CERTOSA.] + +Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonna +di S. Luca+, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. It is +approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond the +gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. This portico +was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was finished. The +church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed to have been +painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed from the +church. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a Carthusian +convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, and the +chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom attached to +each. + +269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is Pistoja (see p. 231), and +291 m. from Turin is Florence (see p. 233). + + ++St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.+ + + (74 m. N.E. See Map, page 290.) + + miles from ST. PIERRE + miles to COURMAYEUR + +{ }{74} ++ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY+ (see p. 289), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and +45½ m. N.W. from Modane. + + +{14}{60} ++ALBERTVILLE+, pop. 5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea. +_Inns:_ Million; Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and +Annecy, 22 m. N. + + +{22}{52} ++LA ROCHE CEVINS+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d'Or. Hidden +and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. beyond +is the defile Pas de Briançon. + + +{31}{43} ++MOUTIERS+, pop. 2100, and 600 ft. above the sea-level, on the +confluence of the Doron with the Isère. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. One +mile from the town is the Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200 +ft. At the base are the salt springs, utilised both by salt-works and a +bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road extends up a narrow and +picturesque defile, following the course of the Isère, past St. Marcel, +pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock called the Detroit du +Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where the valley is only 145 +ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with the village of +Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, 8375 ft., +commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of Villette, +pop. 500, we reach + + +[Headnote: AIME.] + +{41}{33} ++AIME+, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St. +Bernard. This, the "Forum Claudii et Axuma," possesses remains of +extensive Roman fortifications, and a very ancient church called St. +Martin, built of stones from Roman buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre, +pop. 1100, on the Isere, where the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass +of the Little St. Bernard comes into view. + + +{50}{24} ++BOURG ST. MAURICE+, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_ +Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the +confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet. + + +[Headnote: SEEZ.] + +{52}{22} ++SEEZ+, the ancient Sextum, a pretty village between six mountains, pop. +2600, and 2985 ft. above the sea-level. From Seez the road passes the +village of Villard-Dessus, and then crosses the Recluse by a lofty +bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, called the Roche Blanche, supposed +to be the place noticed by Polybius, where Hannibal posted himself to +protect his cavalry and beasts of burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain; +the last inhabited village during the winter. From St. Germain the +ascent is easy to the + + +{58½}{15½} ++HOSPICE+, 7077 ft., founded by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy +plain 3 m. long, and about a mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated +by the Colonne de Joux, Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino +marble. From the Hospice, Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended. +About 300 paces from the column is the Cirque d'Annibal, consisting of a +circle of large stones lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to +have held a council of war, 218 B.C. A few miles below are Cantine des +Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the +sea-level, 9 m. from Courmayeur. + + +[Headnote: PRÉ ST. DIDIER.] + +{70}{4} ++PRÉ ST. DIDIER+, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion. +Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See map, p. 290.) + + +{74}{ } ++COURMAYEUR+, 4211 ft., the highest considerable village in the valley +of Aosta. _Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach +leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs. +Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every +summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and +for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters, +which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are +sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable +circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in +the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur--the road to +Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du +Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St. +Bernard. + + ++Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.+ + + From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and Modane + to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the Baths of + Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for Grenoble, + which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux and the + other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places are + Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble. + + (Map, page 304.) + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{ }{476} ++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon, +where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons follow +pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to. + + +{318}{158} ++LYONS.+ Perrache station. (See p. 29.) + + +{325½}{150½} ++ST. PRIEST+, pop. 2800. In the old castle here Charles VII. confined +his son Louis XI., then the Dauphin. + + +[Headnote: BOURGOIN.] + +{344}{132} ++BOURGOIN+, pop. 5200. _Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres +of bog, producing large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La +Tour-du-Pin, pop. 3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre. + + +{358}{118} ++ST. ANDRE-LE-GAZ.+ A coach at this station awaits passengers for +Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse may +be visited. + + +[Headnote: VIRIEU.] + +{363}{113} ++VIRIEU+, pop. 2000. With a large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in +good preservation, containing tapestry and portraits, 16th cent. + + +[Headnote: CHABONS.] + +{368}{108} ++CHABONS+, pop. 2000. 5 m. distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft. +deep, surrounded by wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end +of the lake is Paladru, pop. 1000. + + +[Headnote: RIVES.] + +{371}{105} ++RIVES+, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station, +on the Fure. It has some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well +as some considerable forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants +employ themselves in the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The +parish church was built in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the +castle of Châteaubourg, destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from +Rives to St. Rambert, 35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see +page 43). + + +[Headnote: VOIRON.] + +{378}{98} ++VOIRON+, 939 ft., pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches +and gigs await passengers for the +Grande Chartreuse+, 15 m. distant by +the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and 6 from +the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy town on the river +Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth manufactories. Here the +monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large premises for the sale of their +famous cordials, which they distil, not in the monastery itself, but in +a large building a little beyond St. Laurent. The road from Voiron to +the Grande Chartreuse joins the road from Voreppe just before reaching +the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, distant from both stations 9 m., +1344 ft., pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we +pass on our right the distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a +narrow gorge, among fine woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, +consisting of an immense square building, garnished with pavilions, +situated on a narrow plateau 3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base +of the Grand Som, which towers 3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from +this place in about 3 hrs. This monastery, the head establishment of the +Carthusian friars, was founded by St. Bruno, the originator of the +order, in 1084. At first it consisted only of a small chapel, with six +poor cells, the habitations of St. Bruno and his followers, built in +what was then an almost inaccessible spot among rocks and forests. + +The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided +with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small +garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being +occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the +handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple +vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. walk in the +surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and on +feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. Animal +food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 A.M. they attend mass, +excepting on Sundays, when the hour is 8 A.M. Vespers are said at 4 +P.M., and matins at a quarter to 12 midnight. Visitors who wish to see +the monks should endeavour to be at the chapel-door at any of these +hours. For gentlemen guests there is ample accommodation in the convent, +clean beds, three large dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent +water. The men-servants, of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story; +the wives, however, of these servants, not being allowed to enter the +convent, dwell in a house a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in +this house also that ladies who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no +female is allowed to enter the monastery. + +Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they +distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at +Voiron, at the following prices:--Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the litre +bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche, 4 frs. + +From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in +about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before +commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St. +Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the +top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S., +5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per day. + + +[Headnote: MOIRANS.] + +{381½}{94½} ++MOIRANS+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to +Valence, 50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, +St. Marcellin+, pop. +4000. _Inns:_ Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to +the picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S., whence +another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. (For Die, +see p. 47.) + + +[Headnote: VOREPPE.] + +{385}{91} ++VOREPPE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse +may alight here also, from which it is 15 m. distant. + + +[Headnote: GRENOBLE.] + +{394}{82} ++GRENOBLE+, pop. 46,000, and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated +on the Isère, by far the greater part being on the left bank, while on +the other there is a mere strip hemmed in between the river and the +steep declivities of the Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the +*Monnet; Europe; the two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in +the Rue Montorge, is the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial +travellers. Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from +the 7th to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room No. 9. Among the cheaper +second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; Marseille; *Bayard; all near +each other and to the Place Grenette. Of the small houses at the +station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple Protestant at the W. end of +the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions for a very small sum may be +taken to all the important places in the neighbourhood by means of the +rail and the diligences and omnibuses which start from the Place +Grenette. On the road to the railway station is a large and handsome +hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. Hugues. A little way down, on +the other side of the river, is the Esplanade, a very large oblong +square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded by trees, much frequented on +feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de Ville, off the Place +Grenette. + +[Headnote: COACHES. BASTILE. BAYARD. ST. ANDRÉ.] + +From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey, +Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and Gières; +from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., fare 5 frs.; +also to Briançon by Bourg d'Oisans, 6 frs., 7 hrs. + +The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit of +the Bastile, 915 ft. above the river. To reach it cross the river by the +bridge highest up, then ascend by the first road to the left in the +village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After numerous windings by a +bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side of the mountain exposed +to the S., a square house is attained on the plateau behind the fort. +The view is magnificent, but it is still better from the peak +immediately above, where there is one of the quarries of argillaceous +siliceous limestone, extensively used for making cement. Ascend either +by the continuation of the same bullock-road or by the steep footpath. +The isolated mountain, so prominent from the village of La Tronche, is +Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that +remains of its early history are some fragments of the walls built by +Diocletian. The most interesting of the buildings is the Palais des +Dauphins, now the Palais de Justice. In the square in front is a bronze +statue of Bayard, one of the most illustrious heroes of a chivalrous +age, esteemed by his contemporaries the model of soldiers and of men of +honour. Born in 1476 at the neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died +at Rebecq on the 30th April 1524 from wounds received at the battle of +Romagnane, and was buried in the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from +Grenoble, whence in 1823 his ashes were removed to the church of St. +André and deposited in the tomb in the N. transept. +St. André+, founded +in the 13th cent., was the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the +intersection of the transepts rises a fine tower, terminating with a +steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, fronting the +promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, attached to the Hôtel de Ville +stands on foundations laid by Diocletian. + +[Headnote: LIBRARY.] + +E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th to +the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone tabernacle, +and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th cent. At the +S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the Place de la +Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture occupies the +entire S. side of the "Place." Behind are the Botanic Gardens and the +Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a handsome building, +are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. On the E. side are +the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice containing the public +library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. long and 156 ft. wide, +and cost £67,585. +The Library+, open every day except Monday, contains +150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a comfortable +reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and 44 ft. wide, +is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted by handsome +cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed richly-illuminated +manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass cases containing +medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric times. Among the +MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by Raoul de Sestre in +1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New Testament, 12th cent., and +another in Vaudois, 13th cent. + + [Map: The French Waldensian Valleys] + +[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. MUSEUM.] + +The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains 550 +paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the largest +and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists +are:--Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine, +Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino, +Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes, +C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink, +Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude +Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch, Holbeina, +Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, Licinio, +Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard, Millet, Monnayer, +Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, Perugino, Piombo, +Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, Ruisdael, Rysbraek, +Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, D. Teniers, Terburg, +Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, Van den Veldt, Van Loo, +P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last room of the picture +gallery is a chamber containing the busts and portraits of the most +famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to +VI., Jean I. and II., Humbert I. and II.--Bayard, 1476-1524; +Lesdiguières, 1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780; +Champollion, 1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable +antique furniture, porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also +one of those models of the Bastile which were distributed among the +eighty-three departments of France after the fall of that stronghold of +despotism on the 14th of July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery +is the Rue Lesdiguières leading to the Temple Protestant. On the way is +passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the Museum of +Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the museum +consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens illustrating the +organic and inorganic products of this part of the Alps. The birds and +ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out to La Tronche is +the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th cent., is supported +on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 ft. high. + +[Headnote: MANUFACTURES.] + +Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble, +representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the +workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves +in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in +1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of +Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline. +Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department. +The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well +selected. + +Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs. Returns next +day at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341), +passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the +Roman road and the Durance. + 7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow valley. + 1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, and strata + of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead ore. + +[Headnote: SASSENAGE.] + + 3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses + start from the Place Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez + omnibuses leave their passengers at the entrance into the town near + the H. Faure, but the Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the + "Place" and stop before the inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the + inn is the house of the guide for Les Cuves, whose services are + necessary to be able to cross the Furon and the torrent from the + Cuves. This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and + Sassenage itself makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense + number of small vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; + whence it is a very pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to + Sassenage. The suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of + this kind constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains + it is supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. + The gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of + limestone strata of great thickness, much valued for building + purposes. The path to the Cuves commences at the left side + (approaching) of the H. du Commerce, and, having passed through a + doorway, enters a kind of park and ascends by the right side of the + Furon. About 1½ m. up is a great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks + as if it had been made artificially, out of which rushes a copious + stream of pure water. After crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of + a little more than 150 ft. to an enormous vault, within which are two + caves, called Les Cuves, out of each of which rushes a great volume of + water, which united passes under the cavern below called the Four des + Fées. After this two or three beautiful cascades, quite near, are + visited, and the Furon is crossed and the return made by the left side + of this most picturesque river. From the Cuves side is seen part of + the ruins of the old castle of the Berangers, to which a series of + steps leads up, commencing near the mills, left bank. Their modern + castle, built in the 17th cent., stands within a large park adjoining + the village. The large halls are furnished with antique furniture and + hung with paintings, a large proportion being family and historical + portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and marchioness are hung with + old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese is made in the mountains + around Villard and Lans, some miles to the south of Grenoble. The + general quality is not so good as formerly, as more of the cream now + is used for making butter. + +[Headnote: GRENOBLE TO BRIANÇON.] + + +Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d'Oisans+ and the Col de Lautaret (see + map p. 304). Distance, 69 m. E. Diligence daily. When there is much + snow, the Col is passed on sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to + the state of the road. Fare, 16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from + Briançon to Grenoble stops several hours at Bourg d'Oisans, it is a + good plan to alight there for the night. This magnificent + mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in 1804, opened in 1842, and + finished in 1868, makes a charming walking excursion; while from + almost every village grand mountain tours may be made. Bourg d'Oisans, + with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, makes capital quarters. + There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, H. d'Europe; La Grave, + H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the + Hospice itself on the top of the Pass, where beds and food may be had + at most reasonable charges. + +[Headnote: CLAIX. VIZILLE. SÉCHILIENNE.] + + 5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the + river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. de + France, with a bridge across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53 + ft. above the river, built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. farther S. + by a road between poplars is +Vizille+, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert; + Lion d'Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the + station. A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between + high mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is +Séchilienne+, pop. 1300. + _Inn:_ Petit Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of + one street, magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the + valley of the Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above + each other. To the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from + Séchilienne in about 6 hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is + reached, whence the ascent lies through pastures and pine woods to + some steep rocks. The track then, leaving on the right a small tarn, + keeps along the base of the rocks to an abandoned mine, where it runs + along the ridge called the Arete de Brouffier, overlooking the valley + of the Combe de Valloire on the right and the Combe de Gavet on the + left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, usually covered with snow; + whence a second ridge leads up to the highest peak. + + From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of + Riouperoux, in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought + down by the terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated + the plain from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet + of Livet at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its + junction with the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and + the argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de + l'Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the + Bella Donna. + +[Headnote: BOURG D'OISANS.] + + 29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d'Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ + France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon remains at the + Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey here and + start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche, + surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000 + ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded + with houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to + Lac Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its + dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide, and + commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due + N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of + Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and + valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. + farther is Lake Blanc. + +[Headnote: ROAD TO THE ECRINS.] + + Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of + which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7½ m., St. + Christophe 13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La + Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave the + narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to + the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole + valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the + distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier + summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the prolongation of + the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; _Inn:_ Paquet, on an + elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure and noble walnut woods, + on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly opposite Venose are the green + pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, 8300 ft. As the tributary + valleys do not join the principal valley at common level, but are + considerably higher, a waterfall, often of great beauty, almost + invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. In ascending the + valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes narrower, the rounded + forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly left, and, the + torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, a very short + distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. A mountain on the + right hand has at some remote time crumbled into fragments and + literally filled the valley from side to side with a colossal heap of + ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path practicable for + mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with excessive + commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was unable + to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three carriages + to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, harmonising + with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the romantic + village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few houses perched on + a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of the beautiful + cascades. [Headnote: ST. CHRISTOPHE. LA BERARDE.] Not much farther on, + the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of a rough hill to + +St. Christophe+, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just + before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow + cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du + Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages, + commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss + scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d'Arsine, standing + immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of + rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely + adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, + is comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which + stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the + scenery of the Allée Blanche. +La Berarde+, which is placed in the + midst of this savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a + small chapel distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation + ceases just at the village; a few stunted pines are found still higher + up, but there is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. + This excessive sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of + Dauphiné. The village of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft., + that of St. Christophe is 4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character + of the scenery is, like that of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. + The unbroken rocky surfaces deceive the eye to such an extent that it + is difficult to realise the enormous scale of these mountains. To + ascertain their height we must attempt to mount them, and even then + the eye has some difficulty to submit to the testimony of the limbs. + The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is + extremely dangerous. Mont Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, + but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p. 304). + + +[Headnote: LE FRENEY.] + ++Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.+ + + After Le Bourg d'Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche + flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the + side of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble + is +Le Freney+, 3085 ft., pop. 900; _Inn:_ H. Europe, with mines up in + the mountains but of difficult access. It is in these mines that the + crystals and the species of quartz containing gold are found, for + which the Dauphiné is so celebrated among mineralogists. + + 2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with + a small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret + is passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a + soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les Freaux, + a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a precipice of + granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from Grenoble and 24 m. + from Briançon is + +[Headnote: LA GRAVE. COL DE LAUTARET.] + + +La Grave+, 5000 ft.; _Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope + rising from the road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs + containing copper mines, and opposite, on the other side of the river, + the great glacier which streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080 + ft. To the E. of the Meije is the Bec de l'Homme, 11,372 ft., with a + smaller glacier. The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., + and is crowned by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The + two highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and + are rather more than a mile apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest + or western aiguille must be made from the northern side. The view of + this mountain from the village of La Grave can hardly be praised too + highly; it is one of the very finest road views in the Alps, and one + cannot speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential + glaciers, and tremendous precipices. The perpendicular cliff, + extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the summit of the Meije, is + about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads through a bleak region and + several tunnels to Villard d'Arene, 4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from + Briançon, a miserable hamlet, considerably under the high road, at the + foot of the Bec de l'Homme. + +[Headnote: LE CASSET.] + + 51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the +Hospice of + the Col de Lautaret+, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft., + where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two + diligences pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it + is 11 kilomètres (6-4/5 m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.) + from Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of + Malaval and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, + 13,081 ft. above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche + descends to Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. + From the Hospice the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a + mine of anthracite coal not far from the village of Lauzet. The + discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of + this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long + and inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is + the hamlet of Le Casset, at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the + entrance to the ravine of the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great + glaciers which spread themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont + Pelvoux. When the snow is melted the effect of the sun upon them is + splendid. 60 m. from Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is + +[Headnote: LE MONÈTIER. BRIANÇON.] + + +Le Monètier de Briançon+, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with + barley-fields, pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. + Marguerite, 8328 ft., which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux + group. Horses changed here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment, + with hot sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes + the villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and + night-cap manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and + 4299 ft. above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is + + +Briançon+, 4335 ft., pop. 6000. _Inn:_ H. de la Paix. Temple + Protestant. The Brigantium of the Romans, and now a fortified town of + the first class, with eight strong fortresses, which guard this + important entrance into France from Italy. The town stands on the + steep sides of an eminence rising vertically from the Durance, here a + roaring mountain torrent hemmed in between the cliffs of the Mont + Infernet, with strong forts on all the salient points up to the very + summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this part the Durance is spanned by + a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and 108 ft. above the river, + erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On the right side of the + river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and opposite, on the + left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the largest of the forts. + The views from them are very extensive, especially from the fort + Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to visit the + forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building down + the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. Catherine, + is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded and + prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn + 14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 P.M., 1½ hr. allowed + for meals. The longitudinal streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, + little better than staircases, down the centre of each of which runs a + stream of water in a marble gutter, with such an impulse that all + manner of garbage thrown into it quickly disappears. At the foot of + Briançon is the fertile valley formed by the union of the Guisanne + with the Durance, surrounded by carefully-cultivated mountains studded + with villages. All the Briançon coaches start from the Place du + Temple, in front of the church. "The neighbourhood of Briançon abounds + in rare plants. Amongst them may be mentioned Astragalus austriacus + and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium + Imperati, Brassica repanda, Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum + heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace septentrionalis, and + Bulbocodium vernum." --Ball's _Western Alps_. + +[Headnote: VAL LOUISE. GRAND PELVOUX.] + + The great excursion from Briançon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group, + whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in + favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road extends + by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a path + ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The +Ville de Val + Louise+ lies near the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the + principal branch of the Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching + up to the foot of the monarch of the group, the +Grand Pelvoux+ + itself, which, although at no great distance, cannot be seen from the + village on account of the hill which rises immediately behind. (See + p. 345, and map p. 304.) + +[Headnote: CESANNE.] + + +Briançon to Oulx+, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a + beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views + of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the + summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, + is the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, + 6476 ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it + and 10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres + from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost 25 m. + from Susa (p. 291). A few yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the + boundary between France and Italy, and which commemorates in French, + Latin, and Italian the opening of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I., + and its restoration or rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is + +Cesanne+, at the confluence of the Dora with the Ripa, 4420 ft., or + nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian custom-house. _Inn:_ + Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. A post-road leads from + Cesanne to Perosa, 28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 + ft., with a good inn, the Dell' Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The + diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p. 291. From + Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms + a pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably + shortened on the French side by following the footpath. + + Grenoble to Gap by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes + only the length of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence + for Gap. + + ++Grenoble to Corps.+ + + By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road. + From Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the + railway and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. 328 and 345), and thence + in another straight line between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther. + Coach from Vizille to La Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence + takes nine horses, and having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the + flanks of Mont Conex in 2 hrs. to the village of La Frey or Laffrey, + 2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and 15 from Grenoble, in a + cold situation on the top of this pass, about 3000 ft. above the sea; + the horses are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On + this plateau, immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 + ft. above the sea, 2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the + village of the Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To + the right or west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite + coalmines, some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The + diligence next passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble, + a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. + +[Headnote: LA MURE. CORPS.] + + 23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is +La Mure+, 2860 ft., + pop. 3800, the largest town on the road, with the ancient castle of + Beaumont, nail manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, + 3½ m. distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next + village, is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the + edges of high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the + Bonne, which it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is + exactly half-way between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m. + from Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge + of La Salette, arrives at + + +Corps+, 39½ m. from Grenoble, on a plateau 814 ft. above the + confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, or 3156 ft. above the sea. + Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next each other. Mules for La + Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. the seat, or 15 frs. the + whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and 2750 ft. above it, by a + wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It is better to descend + on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very picturesque, and, like + all the journeys among the mountains of the department of Isère, of + great interest to the botanist and geologist. The inhabitants of these + mountains wander in winter to distant parts selling their plants, + bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most justly famous + liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, Grenoble, and + elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, one of the + best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of which the + black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated. + + +[Headnote: CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA SALETTE.] + +LA SALETTE. + + This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now + visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of + Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. The church, + a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished + marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside + measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached + pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The + pulpit was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three + doorways, has on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, + which were very great in a region of such difficult access, and where + winter lasts six months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. + Opposite the façade are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the + gift of a Spaniard, representing the events of the story. On the south + side of the choir a door opens into the large and spacious building + occupied by the nuns, and on the north side another door opens into a + similar building occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in + each is exactly the same. The pension price, including wine and + everything else, is 5½ frs. per day. Visitors can have a good meat + breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½ frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au + lait ½ fr., a cup of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are + very obliging. Books approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in + the "magasin" of the establishment, giving the history of the + apparition, from which the following is extracted:-- "On the 19th of + September 1846, at 2.30 P.M., was seen by a girl and a boy in the + place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone shedding + tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 ft. in + diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow forth freely. + Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called the + miraculous fountain. The girl's name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat + Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy's Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years + old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could + neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such + frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a + few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to + learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children + in the path between the railings indicate the place where they were + standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became + aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in + French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, 'If my people will not + submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so + heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and + do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I + have taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have + reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is + that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts + cannot swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are + the two things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.' She + continued a little longer in French till, observing the children did + not understand her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same + strain, a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of + the Sabbath-- 'only some old women go to mass.' After her speech, and + having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, 'a tout + mon peuple,' she glided up the path between the railings, followed by + the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with + the statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she + disappeared, looking to the S.E." That this being was really Mary was + acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day + in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and + other acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August + 1867 the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The + first stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary + appeared to the children, was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, + on 25th May 1852, assisted by Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the + presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In the churches all over France and in + many of those in Belgium are pictures representing N. D. de la Salette + addressing the children. In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette + she is appealed to as "the tower of David," "the gate of heaven," "the + morning star," "the refuge of sinners," "the queen conceived without + sin," "the healer of diseases," "thou by whose supplications the arm + of the irritated Lord against us is held back," "thou who hast said, + If my people will not submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of + my son," "thou who continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy + upon us, pray for us." + + The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a + shop at Corps, upon which was written, "Objets de Piété vendus par + Maximin Giraud." He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was + sent to a nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that + the pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born + near Saint-Marcellin, Isère. + + From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap, + 22½ m. S. (See p. 333, and map p. 304.) + + +[Headnote: GIÈRES.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{398}{78} ++GIÈRES.+ At this station omnibuses await passengers for the baths of +Uriage, 4 m. N., and 1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien +Hôtel; Des Bains; Du Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable +and commodious, and is pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, +about 400 ft. higher than Grenoble. The water contains common salt, +sulphates of magnesia and soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a +deep valley at the junction of granite and lias, which is, however, +concealed for some way by an immense mass of detritus, through which the +spring forces itself. It is conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous +conduit to the establishment, whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr. + + +[Headnote: DOMENE.] + +{401}{75} ++DOMENE+, pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is +generally made the laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. +above the sea-level. Guides necessary. The first night is generally +spent at the village of Revel. Two days required. + + +[Headnote: GONCELIN.] + +{412}{64} ++GONCELIN+, pop. 1600. Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by +an excellent road through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses +awaiting passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits +passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the +right bank of the Isére. + + Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The three + principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ frs. + to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, with + the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other end + of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place contiguous to + the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ frs. In a garden + of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the France. The H. + Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of the lias with the + primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° Fahr., with a great + deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially efficacious in diseases of + the throat and the respiratory organs, for the cure of which the + establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus for inhalation and + gargling being both complete and varied. + + Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate + of iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted. + + Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the + road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the "Fin + du Monde," 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable + to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at + the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank + and ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of + the way. At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a + toll of 10 sous. + + The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an + elevated point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the + Isère. 25 min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the + remains of a castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this + a path ascends through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the + hamlet of Crozet. Descend by sledge, 2 frs. + + There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the + mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a + tariff by the authorities of the place. + +[Headnote: SEPT LAUX.] + + The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most + difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La + Ferrière+, to the Sept Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level, + and the Glacier of Gleyzin, 9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time + required to go, 14 hrs. constant walking, but to the lakes only, about + half that time. This series of lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild + gloomy ravine, shut in on all sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by + springs, and are not accumulations of stagnant water derived from the + melting snow. The banks are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered + with snow nearly the whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake + Blanc, is almost always frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a + sluggish frog inhabits the marshy margins. + + +[Headnote: PONTCHARRÁ.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MODANE + +{418}{58} ++PONTCHARRÁ+ station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of +Pontcharrá, pop. 2800, _Inn:_ Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant. + From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La + Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly + from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born. + + {426}{50} + +LES MARCHES+, a straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which + stands the church of Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of + the Virgin. Beyond are some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips + from Mt. Granier, 6520 ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where + passengers by this route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and + join the direct line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 + miles), see from Montmélian, p. 289. + + ++Marseilles to Grenoble+, + +190 m. N., by GARDANNE, AIX, PERTUIS, ST. AUBAN, VEYNES, and CLELLES. +Fare--first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is +394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see p. 324). + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to GRENOBLE + +{ }{190} ++MARSEILLES.+ There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by +Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be chosen by +those who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p. 77). + + +[Headnote: GARDANNE.] + +{11}{179} ++GARDANNE+, pop. 3500, on the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes +are important coal-fields. + Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of + numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line + extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and + Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of interest are Brignoles and + St. Maximin. + + +{18½}{171½} ++AIX-EN-PROVENCE+ (see p. 78). At Aix change carriages for Rognac. 5 m. +N. from Aix is La Calade station, where a coach awaits passengers for +St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther (p. 80). 5 m. +S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. 16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from +Marseilles, is Meyrargues (see p. 79). + + +[Headnote: PERTUIS.] + +{38}{152} ++PERTUIS+, pop. 5800. _Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other. + Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from + the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m. + W., passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L'Isle, the station + for Vaucluse (see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the + Durance commences near Pertuis (p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is + the Tour d'Aigues, which was part of the old fortifications. From + Pertuis the country becomes picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of + Mirabeau, pop. 800, with the castle in which Mirabeau spent his + boyhood, and in which his father was born. + + 60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque, + pop. 6200 (see pp. 166 and 168). 4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx + village and station, with beds of lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles + is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is + the station and village of Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking the + Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and a + Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet. + + +[Headnote: PEYRUIS.] + +{77½}{112½} ++PEYRUIS+, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, +at the base of cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by +the action of water have been cut up into tall pinnacles. + + +{80½}{109½} ++ST. AUBAN+, pop. 250, junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, see +p. 166, and maps pp. 162 and 304.) + + +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles+, + 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La + Javie, famous for plums; pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of + the Bléonne with the Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the + Combefère, whence a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 + ft. Thence descend to Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of + gypsum, 19 m. from Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is + commenced the ascent of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend + to Seyne-les-Alpes, pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and + half-way between Digne and Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the + 11th and 12th cents. 18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet, + is St. Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking + the Ubaye. From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette, + p. 341. + +[Headnote: COLMARS.] + + +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. Thomas, Colmars, and Allos+, + 55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, + on a confluent of the Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at + the foot of Mts. Meunier and Draye, on the Sence at its junction with + the Verdon. Excellent cheese, called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. + 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. 1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from + Barcelonnette. A short way from Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in + one of the wildest and most sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake + Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, 4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep, + containing capital trout, and surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 + ft. high, over which tower bleak mountains, of which the most lofty is + Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake discharges its surplus water through a + subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, whence it issues under the name of + the torrent Chadoulin. From the village of Allos proceed to + Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an interesting church, and + Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary of the Ubaye. (For + Barcelonnette, see p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see + p. 165.) + + +[Headnote: SISTERON.] + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to GRENOBLE + +{91}{99} ++SISTERON+, pop. 5000. Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre; +their omnibuses await passengers at station. + Picturesquely situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the + Durance at its confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the + town are the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part + of the fortifications built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has + been very much altered externally by restoration and repairs. The + effect of the graceful octagonal tower has been destroyed by the + square tower adjoining. In the interior the arches are early pointed, + inclining to the stilted form. The three apsidal terminations are + semicircular. The small window at the end of each is closed. The end + of the town farthest from the railway is picturesque. From the gateway + rise perpendicular cliffs of blue limestone, on the top of which is a + fortress of the third class. Immediately opposite, on the other side + of the Durance, are similar strata heaved up and twisted into an + enormous pyramid. A little beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by + the cemetery to a place where there is a good view of the valleys of + the Durance and the Buech. 7 m. N. from Sisteron is +Mison+ station, + 2002 ft. above the sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m. + farther, Laragne station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is + Eyguians-Orpier station, 1979 ft. + + +[Headnote: SERRES.] + +{112½}{77½} ++SERRES+, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of +dirty, steep, narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff +rising from between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to Nyons, 41 m. +E., p. 51. 8 m. N. from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft. + + +[Headnote: VEYNES.] + +{121½}{68½} ++VEYNES+, 2614 ft. above the sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. and +Rest, de la Gare; in town, H. Dousselin. + + Junction with rail to +Mont Dauphin-Guillestre+, 51 m. N.E. This + branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which traverse + the valleys of the Waldenses. + +[Headnote: GAP.] + + On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from Mont + Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, 2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300. + _Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; France. This, the ancient Civitas + Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, extensive barracks, long avenues + of walnut trees, and a handsome modern cathedral, built on the site of + one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture is the mausoleum of the + Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the leaders of the + Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, Guillaume Farel, + a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He died on the 13th + Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his character were + dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed a sonorous + and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate earnestness; + yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of large + audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, aroused + against his doctrines unnecessary opposition. + +[Headnote: LE LAUZET.] + + +Gap to Barcelonnette+, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare, 8 frs.; + time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its confluence with the + Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it ascends by the N. side + of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from + Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the + horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with + the Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and + ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, 23 m. + from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil is made. + The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost every + part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the picturesque + fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from Gap is Le + Lauzet, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with + narrow gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake + abounding with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the + entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. + side of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of + Meolans occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses + to the right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m. + from Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St. + Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th + cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the + church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side. + Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over + the door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the + presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is + a square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a + pattern to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the + characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally + great to the height of the spire. + +[Headnote: BARCELONNETTE. ST. PAUL.] + + +Barcelonnette+, 3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord; + France; on the Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by + mountains clothed with walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present + village was built in 1230 on ground given by Reymond Beranger, in + honour of whose ancestors, the Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the + newly-erected town received its name. The parish church, begun in + 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, nearly rebuilt in the 16th + and 17th cents. The tour de l'horloge at the corner of the "Place" is + all that remains of the church of N. D. de Confort, built in 1290 and + destroyed in 1789. + + From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there + is also one to the village of St. Paul, 4730 ft. above the sea, and + 13½ m. N.E. from Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the + Maddalena road, the length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it + diverges 6½ m. N. up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. + The wheel-road continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. + above the sea. From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, + 8767 ft., and the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair + inn) and Château Dauphin and the river Vraita. + +[Headnote: JAUSIERS. BERSEZIO.] + + +Barcelonnette to Cuneo+ by the Col della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, + and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 hours' walk to Vinadio; whence there is a + diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road all the way (see map, p. 304). Guide + not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. 3¾ m. + more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the Ubaye with the + Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The road, to avoid + the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to a + considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of + Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of + Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La + Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley + of the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the other goes to the Pass of + +La Maddalena+. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or 14¼ m. from Barcelonnette, + is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; Italie; 5570 ft., the last French + village. 5 m. beyond, or 19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating + point of the Pass of the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the + sea, between Mt. Mourre and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The + mule-path on the S.E. side now descends 850 ft. by the Lago della + Maddalena, the source of the Stura, to the hamlets of Maddalena and + Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and Italian custom-house. A little + distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 from + Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine wild + scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The Baths are up + a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at the hamlet of + Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. 8 m. from Vinadio + is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with the stream di + Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, 8422 ft., + leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about 25 m. W. + from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, and 57 from + Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to Cuneo. (For Cuneo, + see pp. 182 and 279.) + + +Gap to Grenoble by Laye, Corps, and La Mure+, 62 m. Diligence to + Vizille, the remaining 8 m. by rail. + + From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, by + +Laye+, 6½ m. N., where the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On + the summit is a house of refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, + _Inn:_ H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the + Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières, + in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p. 333). + +[Headnote: LA MURE. CHORGES.] + + 23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is +La Mure+, pop. 3800, and + 2860 ft. above the sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs + between La Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. + There is a large trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. + distant are the anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is + Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. W. + by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is Laffrey + (see p. 333). + + 26¾ m. from Veynes junction is +Chorges+, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la + Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy + unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to + Diana. In the "Place" is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In + and around the town are fragments of Roman buildings. The chapel of + Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of Chorges, is visited by + pilgrims. + +[Headnote: SAVINES. EMBRUN.] + + 34¼ m. from Veynes is +Savines+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste, on + the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest and + valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all the + way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and + Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is + + +Embrun+, 3014 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste; + 8¾ m. S.E. from Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of + the Romans and one of their important military stations, is situated + on an eminence in the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. + side of Mont St. Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous + situation stands the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded + in the time of Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed + deep-set windows with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are + supported by flat buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west + end consists of a flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from + the N. side. Above the portal is a rose window with valuable old + painted glass. The N. portal is within a portico on four columns. The + two outer rest on lions; the two inner, each a cluster of four slender + columns, rest on the shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse + with its two apsidal chapels and part of the adjoining wall are + probably the only parts of the church which date from the time of + Charlemagne. The interior is about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each + side of the nave are four wide spanned early pointed arches resting on + massive rectangular piers. Above each arch is a small roundheaded + deeply-recessed window within a corniced arch resting on colonnettes. + Below in the aisles are their exact counterparts, only about double + the size. The roof of the nave is quadripartite, and that of the aisle + semicircular. The high altar and angels are of white marble. The organ + and most of the ornaments date from the time of Louis XI., who + frequently visited this church to pray to Notre Dame d'Embrun, that + white marble image of the Virgin and Child over the altar fronting the + northern entrance. On the inside of the northern doorway (left hand) + are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same size. It is said that + Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to ride into the + church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse reared, and + the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the animal could + proceed no farther. + + Behind the cathedral is the archbishop's palace, now a barrack. In the + centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune. + 3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes. + + After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun, with + a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3¾ m. + farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing + establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs. + +[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN.] + + 51 m. N.E. from Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coarse + reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the + Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above the + road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the + summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the + top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of + stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the + village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy + appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and + mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, + and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume. + +[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIÉS.] + + 2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is + the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and church + of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, passing + through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800 + ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a cascade. + 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort + and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m. N.E. from + Mont Dauphin, with an inn. "In the valleys around Queyras Protestants + are numerous, especially in the Val +d'Arvieux+, reached by a road + branching off on the left about 1½ m. below Château Queyras; as well + as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre + Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran, + and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three + weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish" + (see p. 304, and _Murray_, p. 216). A little higher up the left or S. + bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., + and an inn. 18 m. from Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an + inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ + hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and + Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil. + Although Abriés is a convenient halting-place, it is a most + unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from +Abriés+ on the Guil + is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left. + + For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin, + p. 306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p. 304. + + +Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a + good road extends 21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the + valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From + Abriés a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on + the S. flank of Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from + the Col. 8 m. beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief + town in the valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on + the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about + 17 m. S., to Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley + of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m. + N.E. from Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304). + +[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX.] + + 45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is +La + Bessée+, 3420 ft. above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. + Here passengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of + Val Louise, about 6½ m. W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see + p. 333). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is Briançon (see p. 333). "Nearly + opposite La Bessée to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which + terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top, + rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is visible from the road in + clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right + leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a mass of + ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pass, called Col de + Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called + Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed + themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as + much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position + and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by + Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its + inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their + hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire to at the + mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in + attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks + below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the + caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is + believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this + valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_. + The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable + goitred race." --_Murray_, p. 218. + + + miles from MARSEILLES + miles to GRENOBLE + +{126}{64} ++ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction +with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side of Rhône (see p. 46). The road +after leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceeds +westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see p. 47). + + +{154½}{35½} ++CLELLES+, 2400 ft., pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. Station to alight at +to make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, +near Chichiliane, about 7 m. distant towards Die. + + +{163}{27} ++MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold +acidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach. + + +[Headnote: VIF.] + +{177}{13} ++VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. +Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509 ft. + + +[Headnote: VIZILLE.] + +{181}{9} ++VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the +Vigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right +bank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored +and used as a manufactory (see p. 333). + + +{185}{5} ++PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 +ft. high (see p. 328). + + +{190}{ } ++GRENOBLE.+ (See p. 324.) + + ++Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.+ + + See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhône and Savoy, p. 27. + + miles from PARIS + miles to LYONS + + { }{349} + +PARIS.+ For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint + Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important + junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358. + + {220}{129} + +ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES.+ All the trains halt here. + + {231}{118} + +LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the + eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century. + + {235½}{113½} + +ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle + of Montmorillon, 15th cent. + + {262}{87} + +ROANNE+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, + well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, + possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the + most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th + cent.; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built + by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills + employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is + £1,120,000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes + through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their + offshoots. + + {282}{67} + +FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient + Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly + of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, + called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains. + + {297½}{51½} + +SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of + mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It + is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p. 348). + + {312}{37} + +SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; + France; both first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less + expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe + the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple + Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the + Palais de Justice, a large handsome building. + + This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in + summer, was founded by the Romans B.C. 56, and from a very early + period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables, + ribbons, firearms, and "faïence" or crockery. It is situated in the + long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One + long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St. + Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into + two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal squares or + "Places." In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected + by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the + railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the + Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the + street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill + behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an + artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some + of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure + to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and + church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from + this convent, down the hill, passes the church of St. Etienne, built + in the 12th cent., containing some beautiful glass, and a relief + representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne. + +[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES.] + + A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS + DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture + Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of + specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are + the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the + separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including + locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The + centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. + The most striking is, "Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves." + On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and + on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and + furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of + plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre + of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under + glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and + arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although + most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as + simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting + posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of + Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this + room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the + varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the + silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000, employing 40,000 workmen + and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which 165,000 work organzines and + trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended for crapes and gauze + ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65,000 for + weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85 + square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually + £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite + the gas-works, are the Manufacture d'Armes of the Government, and + adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under + the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs + about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories + throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300,000 stand + of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne + is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north + from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de + la Badouillière. + +[Headnote: ROCHETAILLÉE.] + + _Excursions._--Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large + hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the + +Gouffre d'Enfer+. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the village of + Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat. + A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10 m. from St. Etienne. + Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where + pass the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., + and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 ft. + + 14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft. + above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, + 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. It is a poor place + with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill + are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water. + The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached + by deep shafts, like the "Source Remy," cased with masonry, and + furnished with spiral staircases. + + From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus + starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and bathing + establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs. + + Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d'Estreaux, a coach + awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the station. The + bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by + six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron. + + St. Germains is the station for Vichy (p. 358). + + ++Paris to Lyons by Tarare.+ + + Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours. + + miles from PARIS + miles to LYONS + +{ }{318} ++PARIS.+ This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. For +time-tables, see under "Paris, Tarare, et Lyon." The route becomes +picturesque after Roanne. + + +[Headnote: ROANNE.] + +{262}{56} ++ROANNE.+ (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is L'Hôpital, and 19 m. more the +manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. 7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 +ft. above the sea-level, producing considerable quantities of muslin, +calico, cotton, and linen cloth. 3 m. from Amplepuis commences the +tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces the ridge that separates the basin of +the Loire from the Rhône. The temperature of the Rhône basin in winter +is rawer and colder than that of the Loire. + + +[Headnote: TARARE.] + +{288}{30} ++TARARE+, pop. 15,000. _Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and +unattractive manufacturing town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep +mountains, among which is Mont Chevrier, one of the highest summits of +the Beaujolais range. At the low end of the town is the railway station, +and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the valley of the +Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 ft., the +others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs are +employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and +especially in the particular kind of muslin called "tarlatan," a thin +gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated. + + +{318}{ } ++LYONS+ (see p. 29). + + +[Headnote: MONTBRISON.] + ++Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand+, + +121 m. W. by GIVORS-CANAL, ST. ETIENNE, MONTBRISON, and THIERS. + + At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône + change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes + towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St. + Etienne (p. 346) a long halt is generally made. A little way up from + the station will be found the steam tram, which, after traversing the + best part of the town, returns to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons + and 64½ m. E. from Clermont is +Montbrison+ on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. + _Inn:_ H. Lion d'Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings + occupy religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. + Of these the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent + and church of the nuns of "Sainte Marie." + + Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d'Esperance, founded in + 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its + heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of + Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided + apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small + windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached + diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is + 206 ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. + end of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count "Fores and Niver, Guigo + IV.," who founded the church in MCCXXIII. Opposite is the monument to + the jurist Vernato, d. MCCCLVIII. + +[Headnote: SALLE DES ETATS.] + + Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des Etats (house of + Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 by Jean I., Comte de + Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de Persigny from plans by + Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed into the Salle de la + Diana (decana), from having been converted into the chapter-house of + the church. It now contains the library of the Diana society, who also + hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft. wide, and 26¼ ft. + high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted representations + of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every family that + has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows are modern + additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the + original one. + + Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral + spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free + carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and + diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old + untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a + ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from + Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway + is the station of St. Paul (p. 30). + + Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just + after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by + the gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the + train traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle + by a viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W. from + Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from Lyons is + +[Headnote: THIERS.] + + +Thiers+, pop. 16,500, at first a small hamlet beside a fortress + (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel dedicated to St. Symphorien (see + p. 367). + + Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, + Vertolaye, Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p. 89). + + Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or + Clermont-Ferrand. + + 1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is + + +Courty.+ Junction with line to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W., + passing Vichy, 21½ m. N. + +[Headnote: VERTAIZON. BILLOM.] + + 13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is +Vertaizon+, pop. + 2200, situated 1¼ m. S. from the station. Junction with branch line to + +Billom+, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily + situated town among hills crowned with ruins of castles from 12th to + 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th to 13th cents. + + The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach +Clermont-Ferrand+ + (see p. 369). + + ++Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.+ + + This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the + famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; + and to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See + Maps, pp. 1 and 27.) + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{ }{530} ++PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon, +and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first stations +passed are Brunoy (p. 2), Melun (p. 2), and Fontainebleau (p. 3). At +Moret, 42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes +separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see +p. 10.) + + +{73}{457} ++MONTARGIS+, pop. 10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_ +Poste; France. The principal street leads directly from the station to +the Hôtel de la Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about +the old castle are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This +castle, rebuilt by Charles V., called formerly the "berceau des enfants +de France," became private property in 1809. A house has been built +within the circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway +still stands. + +The parish church is of different epochs--the nave and the aisles belong +to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps higher, to the +16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from which the +groining of the roof ramifies in all directions. + +The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the +adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt. +Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between +Paris and the south of France. + +10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for +Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny was +born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst of +the hereditary domain of the family. + + +{96}{434} ++GIEN+, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and +an important railway junction. On the hill rising from the town is the +church of St. Pierre, flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding +an admirable view. Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in +1494 by Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the +Préfecture. Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. +38 m. N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black's +_Normandy_). + + +[Headnote: BRIARE.] + +{102½}{427½} ++BRIARE+, pop. 5200. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the +Loire, where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther +S. by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois; +omnibus awaits passengers. + + +[Headnote: COSNE.] + +{121}{409} ++COSNE+, pop. 7000. _Inns_: Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, +with ironworks of considerable importance, and still retaining parts of +its old fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its +junction with the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of +which the portal and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. +6½ m. farther S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_ +Pointe du Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the +sea. In the neighbourhood are important quarries. + + +{138}{392} ++POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE+, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ Écu. The surrounding vineyards +produce a famous white wine, with a peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in +the second year, and deteriorates after the 15th. + + +{141}{389} ++LA CHARITÉ+, built on a hill sloping down from the railway to the +Loire, crossed by both a stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et +G. Monarque; Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of +its fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix, +consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast narthex, the +choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This church belonged +to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to the town its +name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the Visitandines +(Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of St. François +de Sales. + + +[Headnote: POUGUES LES EAUX.] + +{150}{380} ++POUGUES LES EAUX+, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du +Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l'Etablissement, and +opposite the "Etablissement," the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a quiet +place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose +stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The +establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the +water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair +rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold, +has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas, +both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and +iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the +liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of +carbonic acid gas are employed. + + +[Headnote: FOURCHAMBAULT.] + +{154}{376} ++FOURCHAMBAULT+, pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town, +H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, employing above +5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du Carrousel were cast +here. Omnibus at station. + + +[Headnote: NEVERS.] + +{158}{372} ++NEVERS+, pop. 20,400. _Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du +Chemin de Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short +distance N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is +the nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, +to which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews +with the "immaculately conceived one," and where she died, after a +lingering illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present +pope had not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio +IX. entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black's _South France_, West +Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave, +covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:-- "Ici +repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à +Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En +religion Soeur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des +Soeurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de son age et +la 12me de sa profession religieuse. C'est ici le lieu. Psalm 131, +v. 15." + +[Headnote: FAÏENCE.] + +Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat at +Gergovia (p. 372) the inhabitants plundered his camp and massacred the +soldiers. Of the old fortifications there remain the tower of the Loire, +of which the lower part is of the 11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, +16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th cent.; and the Porte du Croux, +a square tower of the 12th cent., but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an +antiquarian museum. At the entrance into the town by the Paris road is a +triumphal arch, erected in 1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, +12th May 1745, when the French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch +forces under the Duke of Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a +hill rising from the Loire in the midst of a flat country abounding with +iron, giving employment to important ironworks. In the most elevated +part is the Grande Place, with the +Palais de Justice+, formerly the +Palais Ducal, a stately edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte +de Nevers, but altered and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his +successors, belonging to the families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in +the form of a parallelogram, flanked with four towers, each containing a +staircase. In the centre turret is the "Escalier d'honneur," ornamented +with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history of the +house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old Palais de +Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the Palais de +Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. In the Hôtel de Ville are the +Library, the Picture Gallery, and an interesting collection of faïence, +which has been manufactured at Nevers for eight centuries. Faïence is +the French term for all descriptions of glazed earthenware, and +corresponds nearly to the English word "crockery." The manufacture of +majolica or enamelled pottery was introduced into France by Catherine de +Médicis and her kinsman Louis Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta +of Clèves in 1565, became Duke of Nevers. There are still important +pottery works in the town. + +[Headnote: CASSINI.] + +Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr, +reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs. +The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the +14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned +with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a +western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the +11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the +triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the +astronomer Cassini while engaged in the triangulation of France. + +The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père +was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the +chapel of the Visitandines in 1639. + +32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers for +the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is hot, +and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the +Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p. 1.) + +[Headnote: VARZY. CLAMECY.] + +Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line between +Paris and Turin (see p. 14). On this branch line, 8¾ m. N. from Nevers, +is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the important ironworks +called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards of 1300 men. 24¼ m. +farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste; +with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents., surmounted +by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant triforium and a +beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of St. Eugenie. 44 m. +S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p. 15); +_Inns:_ Boule d'Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne with +the Beuvron. On the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of +Jean Rouvet, the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from +the forests is floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of +St. Martin, 12th to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by +Simart, a handsome organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos +on the high altar. Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of +the Dukes of Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the +prison occupy one large building. + +22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction. +Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p. 24). +Branch to Le Creusot and Autun (see p. 24). + + +[Headnote: SAINCAIZE.] + +{154}{ } ++SAINCAIZE+, 600 ft. above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. +(See Black's _South France_, West Half.) + + +[Headnote: MOULINS.] + +{195}{335} ++MOULINS+, pop. 22,000. _Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer; +in. the town, Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station. +A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along the +banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 arches, +and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral of Notre +Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The façade, over +which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with colonnettes +of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned with +statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is +lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered +with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small +mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the +fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an +Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an "Adoration +of the Virgin" of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a +large square tower called "La tour mal coiffée," 15th cent., now a +prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part +of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old +houses are within and around the Place de l'Allier. In that square is +also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In +the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the Palais +de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, Renaudan and +Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of Henri IV., and one +of the bravest marshals of France. He had the misfortune to draw upon +himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the displeasure of Louis +XIII., which led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the +30th October 1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria +Orsini, caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to +the convent of the nuns "de la Visitation." The statues, all of the +finest Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture +and the duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the +public library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th +cent, called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving +statues, is mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high. + +[Headnote: DUKE OF BERWICK. STERNE'S MARIA.] + +Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed some +time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the +Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died on +the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to +Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, Duke +of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James Duke of +York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister of the great +Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of August 1670, and +died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: "In the works of +Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in Marshal +Berwick I have seen what they are." By the side of the Paris road, under +a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, with +her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the +intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated +melancholy. (See Sterne's _Sentimental Journey_, "Maria.") + +[Headnote: SOUVIGNY.] + +9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is +Souvigny+, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix +d'Or. At the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful +basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various +periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle +Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of Louis II., +Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is that of Duc +Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels are enclosed in +a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the left of the +principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of the Zodiac +sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of the +street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of humble +rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to Bourbon +l'Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de l'Écu). It +stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow the traveller +to cast a rapid glance over this pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and +Auvergne architecture of the 11th cent. (See map, p. 1.) + +[Headnote: BOURBON-L'ARCHAMBAULT-BATHS. ST. PARDOUX SPRING.] + ++Bourbon-l'Archambault+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Close to the bathing +establishment, the Hôtel Montespan, on the site of the house which used +to be occupied by Madame de Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. +distant the Hôtel de France. On a hill at the northern side of this +ancient town are the ruins of the once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, +commenced by Louis I. in 1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc +Pierre II. Four massive towers, built of stone, with projecting points, +still remain of the twenty-four which it had originally. + On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church, + commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In + the centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, + besides supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for + drinking and domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, + easily digested, slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. + One-sixth of its volume is free carbonic acid gas, besides the same + acid in combination with lime, magnesia, and soda; and some salts of + bromine, iodine, and iron. It is eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and + tonic, and excellent for rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. + Between the bathing establishment and the church is the cold water + spring called the "Source de Jonas," containing bicarbonates of lime + and magnesia, chlorides of soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, + alumina, and soda, the carbonate of iron and the oxide of manganese. + The water is tonic and slightly laxative. 9½ m. S. from Bourbon is + +St. Pardoux+, in a wooded and hilly country, forming one of the best + drives from Bourbon. There is here a spring of remarkably sparkling + water, 5/6ths of its volume being free carbonic acid gas. It contains + the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, silicates of lime and + alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is delightful to the taste, very + pungent, and, owing to the presence of so much carbonic acid gas, + slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly diuretic, and + stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre bottles at + Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the height of her + power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her health, and here + she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast off and deserted + by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is Commentry (see map, + p. 1). + + From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at + 17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station for + Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin; and 41½ m. + E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and map, p. 1). + + +Dompierre-sur-Bebre+, pop. 2230. _Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d'Or. Coal + and iron found in this neighbourhood. The country is undulating and + well cultivated. Near the next station, Diou on the Loire, is the + Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th + cent., and now an agricultural school. + +[Headnote: GILLY.] + + +Gilly+, station for +Bourbon-Lancy+, pop. 3300, 8¾ m. N. by the + Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H. + Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for drives can be had. The village, + situated on an eminence, is full of old houses, of which the best are + near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the valley at the foot of the + eminence is the suburb of +St. Leger+, with an excellent small + +Bathing Establishment+, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132° + Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the + baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the + chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of + calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime + and magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the + water is the most important, but here it is the external application + by baths and other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of + nervous and cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every + form of rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and + furnished with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of + the water to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by + itself, is a swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled + with the mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is + still carried off by the underground channels constructed by the + Romans. At intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk + down to the bed of the outlet. + + On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. + and Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their + memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of + Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the + establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes, + pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½ frs.; for a + lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge for the baths and + Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. Le Regisseur + des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of considerable + interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several important + cities are within a few hours by rail. + + A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ H. de + Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal mines. 6 m. farther + is +Digoin+, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in the town; at the + station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth cent. Suspension bridge + across the Loire. + + +[Headnote: ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{220}{310} ++ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES+, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment +rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages +for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. H. du +Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of the station is +the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. 7 m. S. from St. +Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is + + + [Map: Vichy] + +[Headnote: HOTELS AND THEIR CHARGES.] + +VICHY + +on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. _Hotels:_ The +largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the most elegantly +furnished are:--The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.; the H. Parc, 12 to 20 +frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, 12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand +Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class. + +The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the +furniture is not so costly. + The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in + which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the Princes, + 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the G. H. Velay + et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel, Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; + and H. de la Restauration. Almost adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. + Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs., a smaller house. In all the above hotels, + excepting in the first three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. + per day. The above prices include everything except the charge of + 1 fr. for candles at the end of the stay. + + Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande + Grille, is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the + Etablissement, the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to + 10½ frs.; and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more + handsome house. + + In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, *H. + d'Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally full. + + In the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the + H. d'Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally by the + family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise the + Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service. + + In the Place Rosalie are the +Source de l'Hôpital+ and the Banque de + Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed. + + In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row + of houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the + church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ to + 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; H. Fénélon; H. + du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan same price. + + In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway + station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open all + the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse; H. + Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ frs.; + Cote d'Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the year--all between + the railway station and the Etablissement. + + At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel + Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military + hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de + Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas. + + In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are + the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near the + entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to 9 frs. and + the H. Palais-Royal. + + There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are + let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service. Lodgers + can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, and + eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome. + Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame + resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud. + + Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before + deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue + de Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently + comfortable without being expensive. + + Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the + best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information + regarding the different doctors can be had. + + Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, + forms a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels + presided over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to + 25 frs. per day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. + The best situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets. + Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the + town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site + where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern + end of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, + 13th and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous + coins have been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief + Vercingetorix, as well as many Roman objects belonging to all the + epochs of the empire. In 1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded + Vichy with a moat and fortified walls, within which he erected his + castle; but of it all that remains is the great clock-tower or + belfry. + +[Headnote: MINERAL WATER ESTABLISHMENT.] + + At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the + +Mineral Water Establishment+, composed of two large buildings--1st, + The "Grand Etablissement," containing only first-class baths; + a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 cabinets + with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on the + western side the gentlemen's baths, and on the eastern side the + ladies'. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each + bath costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter + is allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. + In front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring + Chomel, is the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers' names and + for the sale of the bath tickets. + + 2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second + and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 + c. each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the + quality of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels + supplied. The baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from + the same springs. The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150 + shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given + in a single day. They commence at 3.30 A.M. and continue till 5 P.M., + but at one part of the season till even later. But it must always be + remembered that the external application of the water is not nearly so + important as the internal. Patients may visit Vichy, at any time; but + the season suited to follow with success the course of treatment is + from the 15th May till the beginning of October. The month of May is + sometimes rainy. August and September are generally the driest months, + and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. The + waters are taken in the morning and during the day, and baths daily or + every second day. For elderly people with sanguine and irritable + temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of the bath + should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes. + +[Headnote: CASINO.] + + At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the +Casino+, a handsome + comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide + and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the + park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with + elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the + building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the + theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats + for 800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the + reading, billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One + entrance ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every + morning, a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening. + A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of + members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is + attached to the Casino. + +[Headnote: THE VICHY SPRINGS.] + + +The Vichy Springs.+--The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic. + They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being + carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from + each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily + eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the + organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special + specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees + best with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain + peculiarities which may assist him to discover the most suitable + spring. The maximum quantity which can be taken daily with advantage + is from 24 to 28 oz. The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., + taken at different times throughout the day, and not necessarily from + the same spring. The water may with advantage be mixed with the wine + taken at dinner. Carafes are filled at the springs without any charge. + In the shops are sold graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided + into three equal parts. 30 grammes equal 1 oz. + + +The Springs and their peculiarities.+--Under the vestibule of the + principal establishment are three important springs--the Grande + Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan). + +[Headnote: GRANDE-GRILLE, CHOMEL, MESDAMES.] + + +The Grande-Grille+, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed + with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of + the viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and + gravel. + + The +Puits-Chomel+, 113° Fahr. The water of this spring possesses + marked anodyne properties, which render it very valuable whenever the + weakened state of the constitution or its irritability requires to be + moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters it contains the least + carbonic acid without being more difficult of digestion, and as, on + the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can in many cases + profitably replace the other springs. + + +Mesdames+, 61° Fahr., highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of + chlorosis, amenorrhoea, and in debility following loss of blood. In + cases where the constitution has been weakened without any evident + derangement it stimulates the energy of the digestive functions so as + to enable the patient to recover his usual strength. + + The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113° + Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for + supplying the baths. + +[Headnote: PRUNELLE, PARC, HÔPITAL.] + + About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building + opposite the military hospital, is the +Source Prunelle+, a cold + spring, recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi. + A little farther E. is the +Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.+, principally + employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is + beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the + park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the +Source du Parc, 71° + Fahr.+, recommended for sluggish action of the digestive organs, + atonic derangement of the intestines, and affections of the bronchial + tube caused by chronic irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the + Casino, in front of the town hospital, is the +Source de l'Hôpital+ or + Rosalie, 89° Fahr., resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less + exciting. It is recommended to those affected with diseases of the + digestive organs, dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhoea, and + dysentery; and is particularly useful to literary men whose digestive + functions are deranged from mental labour. It renders important + service in ovarian tumours and other diseases of females. + +[Headnote: CELESTINS.] + + A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five + important springs, the +Sources des Celestins+, 54° and 58° Fahr., of + which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are + largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being + their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these + springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of + the urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able + to digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with + either the "Hôpital" or the "Grande Grille" spring. In all cases the + water of the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with + caution. Just beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and + near the Parc des Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. + The water, 77° Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a + stimulating action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily + eliminated, and is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. + "Stomach disorder, attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many + cases capable of being cured or materially relieved by the use of one + or other of the Vichy waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) + and diminished power of the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, + the Lardy and Mesdames in others, would be most likely to have a + beneficial effect: in other cases, where a more energetic action is + required, the Grande Grille would be preferable." --_Dr. E. Lee._ + +[Headnote: SOURCE HAUTERIVE. INFLUENCE OF VICHY WATER.] + + 3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the +Source + Hauterive+, 57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In + therapeutical qualities it resembles the Celestins. + + The principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and + in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as + dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty + degeneration or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are + so often connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally + serviceable in enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of + hypochondriasis. Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure + of some of the chronic diseases of women connected with disordered + menstruation, and for the anomalous "critical complaints" which often + set in at the period of life when this function ceases. "The complaint + for which nine-tenths of the English visitors drink these springs is + gout; but it should be distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a + specific for gout; it can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving + the tone of the digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and + correcting the abnormally acid condition of the blood." --_Madden's + Health Resorts._ "The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, + however, a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in + cases of either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or + internal, acute or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in + the interval of attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. + If too near the last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there + is almost as much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its + action in a crisis." --_Dr. Daumas._ "We may then sum up the effects + of a Vichy course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the + digestive and assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general + health. The tone of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes + easier and more rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The + bile flows more freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhoea, if + previously present, ceases. The consequence of these changes is better + assimilation, and therefore flesh is often gained. With the + improvement in nutrition the colour returns to the cheeks and energy + to the mind." --_Dr. P. James._ + + + CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE PRINCIPAL SPRINGS. + + GG Grande Grille P Park + Ch Chomel H Hopital + Md Mesdammes Ce Celestins + L Lucas Hr Haute-rive + + +------------------+------------------------------------------------+ + | Acids and Bases | NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. | + | contained in +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + | each litre. | GG | Ch | Md | L | P | H | Ce | Hr | + +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + |Carbonic Acid |4.418|4.429|5.029 |5.348|5.071|4.719|4.705|5.640| + |Sulphuric " | .164| .164| .141 | .164| .177| .164| .164| .164| + |Phosphoric " | .070| .038|traces| .038| .076| .025| .050| .625| + |Arsenic " | .001| .001| .002 | .001| .001| .001| .001| .001| + |Hydrochloric Acid | .332| .334| .222 | .324| .344| .324| .234| .334| + |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071| + |Protoxide of Iron | .002| .002| .012 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .008| + |Lime | .169| .169| .235 | .212| .239| .222| .180| .168| + |Strontia | .002| .002| .002 | .008| .003| .003| .003| .002| + |Magnesia | .097| .108| .134 | .088| .068| .064| .105| .160| + |Potash | .182| .192| .098 | .146| .151| .228| .163| .098| + |Soda |2.488|2.536|1.957 |2.501|2.500|2.500|2.560|2.368| + +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + | TOTALS |7.997|8.043|7.866 |8.877|8.687|8.302|8.327|9.039| + | | | | | | | | | | + | Saline | | | | | | | | | + | ingredients | | | | | | | | | + | in each litre. | | | | | | | | | + +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + |Free Carbonic Acid| .908| .768|1.908 |1.751|1.555|1.067|1.049|2.183| + |Bicarb. of Soda |4.883|5.091| 4.016|5.004|4.857|5.029|5.103|4.687| + | " Potash | .352| .371| .185 | .282| .292| .440| .315| .189| + | " Magnesia | .303| .338| .429 | .275| .213| .200| .328| .501| + | " Strontia | .303| .003| .003 | .005| .005| .005| .005| .003| + | " Lime | .434| .427| .604 | .545| .614| .570| .462| .432| + | " Protox. of Iron| .004| .004| .026 | .004| .004| .004| .004| .017| + |Sulphate of Soda | .291| .291| .250 | .291| .314| .291| .291| .291| + |Phosphate | .130| .070|traces| .070| .140| .046| .091| .046| + |Arseniate | .002| .002| .003 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .002| + |Chloride of Sodium| .534| .534| .355 | .518| .550| .518| .534| .534| + |Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071| + | +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + | TOTALS |7.914|7.959|7.811 |8.797|8.601|8.222|8.244|8.956| + +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + + The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only + slightly from the Célestins. + + In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying + spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime. + + ++Excursions.+ + + CAB FARES.--The course within the town from 6 A.M. to 12 P.M. with 1 + horse, 1½ fr.; 2 horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first + hour, 3 frs., and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.; + the day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the + following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, 25 + frs. + + Art. 17--The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is always + fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the entire + hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters. + + Art. 18.--The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for + rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest. + +[Headnote: DRIVES. CUSSET.] + + For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled + beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des + Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, 7 frs.; + 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and back, from + Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, and + Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 + horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20 + frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 frs.; 2 horses, + 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To + Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, 18 frs.; 2 + horses, 24 frs. + + +Cusset+, pop. 6200, on the Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du + Centre, in the Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At + the entrance into the town is the +Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie+, + a neat building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked + with turrets. Opposite are the "Sources Ste. Marie" and Elizabeth, + both cold. The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the + afternoon only 1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as + those of Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron. + + From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take the + road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, but + walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is + called the "Côte des Justices," because on it criminals suffered the + extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into + a miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the + prettiest part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment + rooms. Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually + widens and flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and + on the Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a + castle said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, + 1 fr. each. + +[Headnote: MONTAGNE-VERTE.] + + 2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288 + ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a + good view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk + in the neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the + cemetery. + + +Vichy to Busset+ by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return by St. + Yorre, where the rail may be taken. + +[Headnote: GRIVATS.] + + The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of + the Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous + for the manufacture of the Toiles de Vichy, called also Grivats, + a variegated cotton stuff used for gowns and petticoats. The best + quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ fr. the mètre (1-1/8 yard); + the inferior qualities, made chiefly at Roanne, cost from 75 c. to + 1 fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all made by handlooms in the + houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in Vichy for this article + is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de l'Hôpital. + + From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, + reaches the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. + from Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned + slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The + favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the + Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy + rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers + on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive + view. + +[Headnote: BUSSET.] + + The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards + Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this road. + Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the + Château Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission + readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, + on the E. side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail + may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N. + + Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and + the village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the + ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, + the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time + required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs. + +[Headnote: RANDAN. VESSE-INTERMITTENT-SPRING.] + + +Vichy to Randan.+--Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20 + A.M.; arrives at Randan at 1 P.M.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back + to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is + open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by + Maulmont costs 3½ frs. + + The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left + hand a small house with the sign SOURCE INTERMITTENTE. In the garden + is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every + 6 or 7½ hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of + 16 ft. above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30 + minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it + contains. Admission, 25 c. + + From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of + the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois + Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern + extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion + belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with + several drawings by the gifted Marie d'Orleans, the rooms of Madame + Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little chapel, + and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E. + through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by + Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery + of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the + suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by + rail or by the high road along the E. side of the river. + +[Headnote: ST. YORRE. RIS.] + + +Vichy to Thiers+ by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from + Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water + establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water, + which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft. + + The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5 m. + from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the station + the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension + bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The broad + road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. + It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the + principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles + and nave and semicircular apse. + +[Headnote: CHATELDON. THIERS.] + + For +Chateldon+, 3¼ m. S.E. from station, take the road that follows + the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting + than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, + surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the "Place" is the + principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach + starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the + mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the + side of the Vauziron. + + +Maringues+ is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de + Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station. + + 23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of + +Thiers+, pop. 16,230. _Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d'Or; Univers; all near + each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also + approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous + country. + + Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is + built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft. + above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the "Place." + At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns + the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the + different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped + surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The + manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the + inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in + the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the + part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the + foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, + of the 11th cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. + From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle + to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left + is St. Jean, 14th cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. + Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently + restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a + fresco, 16th cent., representing Mary among angels entering heaven. + The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of + Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de + la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest + are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the + Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are + those of Mont d'Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From + Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. + Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty + mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After + leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source. + 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see + below). + + Vichy to the Château d'Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or + Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier. + +[Headnote: GANNAT. AIGUEPERSE.] + + The Château d'Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to + Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the + unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous + Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his + creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now + partially restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, + is +Aigueperse+, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs between + Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the + railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of Charmeil on + the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon + drive. + + 2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of + the Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and + most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old + houses. + + 17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on + the Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l'Écu; with a castle (14th cent.) + on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346). + + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{224}{ } ++SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT+, 867 ft. above the sea. + + +{235½}{294½} ++GANNAT+, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on +the Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of +St. Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a +good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are +by J. du Paroy. In the "Place" are two houses, one belonging to the +Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent. +Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of +the Chemins de Fer d'Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the +Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black's _Normandy, Brittany, and +Touraine_. + + +{242}{288} ++AIGUEPERSE+, pop. 2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d'Or. The finest +building is the Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in +a convent of the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station +goes to Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful +castle of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in 1822 by Mme. +Ad. d'Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest of Randan, is +another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the Middle Ages. See +under excursions from Vichy. + + +[Headnote: RIOM.] + +{253}{277} ++RIOM+, 1105 ft. above the sea, pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H. Paris; Poste; +Puy-de-Dome. Diligences to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; +and to Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is +St. Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each +pier having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is +the same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near +St. Amable is the Tour de l'Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few +15th and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l'Horloge, +is the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the +Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a +choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building +called the "Hôtel Chabrol" is the museum and picture gallery. + + 20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A.M., are the mineral + baths of +Châteauneuf+, pop. 1000. _Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier. + Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60° to 102° + Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous + affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings. + Bath, 1 fr. + + 5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of + Châtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_ + Bains; Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment + with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the + bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. + 100° Fahr. + + 3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava. + Visit the church, the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the + lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see + p. 377). + + +[Headnote: CLERMONT-FERRAND.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{260½}{269½} ++CLERMONT-FERRAND+, 1335 ft. above the sea, pop. 43,000, on an eminence +crowned by the cathedral, of which the principal façade, the west +entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, while the chancel or eastern +end is towards the railway station. _Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are +the *Univers; *Poste, for commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de +Jaude are the Paix; France. All the above are large houses. Near the +Académie and the Botanic Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good +house. Among the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des +Voyageurs. Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. +Amand, and Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the +Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the "Place" are a large cabstand and +offices where carriages may be hired for excursions. + +[Headnote: POST OFFICE. CATHEDRAL.] + +The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side +of the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there +is a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem +is a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture. +A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is the +Temple Protestant, service 1 P.M. The first narrow street beyond the +post office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante. + +Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moist +and crystalline (glacé) state. + +The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the +9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volvic +lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on the +N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or, +including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which rise +nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above, +the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on four +fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towards +the apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches 1/3 +narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave dates +from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, having been injured by +a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N. +transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S. +transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its three +men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Ten +chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is a +miracle-working image of Mary and Child. + +The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage +Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the +principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going +to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which +is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the +shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was +born. + +[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DU PORT.] + +The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la +Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. The +large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de +Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond +these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port, +built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866, +according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. The +exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes, +while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns in +mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower. + +In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round the +nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitals +sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is +surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or +less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is +massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the +window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N. +ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent. + +Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns. +Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary +and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578, +when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well, +which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with +miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude +for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman +Mary. + +It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. and +Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake the +first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediate +inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, "It is the will of God!" which +words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of the +Crusaders. + +The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide Rue +Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the +Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms, +the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public +Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese. + +[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.] + +Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable part +is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit trees +and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a small +aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made at +Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easily +on the stomach. + +[Headnote: ROMAGNAT.] + +3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M. Rognon, +1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., the site of the +principal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended by +Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, whom he +compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are +supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under +Les Laumes, p. 19.) + +Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the +Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l'Arbre; +or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the ++Baraque+, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier. + +The +Puy-de-Dome+ is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, +and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough +spongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of +which the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named +domite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often +friable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed +trachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The +most perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the +Nid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, +connected with the keeper's house by an underground way. On the Puy are +also the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a +Gallo-Roman temple to Mercury. + +For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see +p. 376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty +(where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal +(see p. 349). + +From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the +Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are very +picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le Cendre, 1145 +ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; 272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 +ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the +town is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, +13th cent. + + +[Headnote: ISSOIRE.] + +{282½}{247½} ++ISSOIRE+, pop. 6400, and 1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste; +Pezissat; opposite each other in the principal street. It is a clean +little town. The principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a +highly interesting specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The +exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just +sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the +elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the +characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of +differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the +chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St. +Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy +painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the +eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not +below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a +complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the +altar. + + +[Headnote: LE BREUIL.] + +{287¾}{242¼} ++LE BREUIL+, 1287 ft., pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H. Beranger. +Coaches await passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, +2 m. W., and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a +hilly and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain, +a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the +carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas. + 2½ m. farther is +Ardes+; _Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence + rising from the Couze. In the low part of the village is the church, + 11th cent., but restored and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone + cross (1519) with Mary and Child against it, resting on a + demure-looking figure holding an open book. The valley of the Couze, + between high wooded mountains and great basaltic cliffs, offers an + excellent field for geological and botanical rambles, while the river + itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot of the mountains, + through little meadows by the side of the road, contains excellent + trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below are apricot, + apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed among small + vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic formation is + between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, perched on a + basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way beyond, on the right + or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff resembling a + statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About 4½ m. up the + valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed by lightning in + 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest and most + imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About 5 m. + up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of St. + Pesade. + + 2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral + waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea. + Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. above + the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin + clay. + + +[Headnote: ARVANT.] + + miles from PARIS + miles to MARSEILLES + +{298}{232} ++ARVANT+, 1400 ft., a dirty hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of +the Allier. The best of the inns is the H. Voyageurs. Junction here with +the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing the whole of the +interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See Black's _South +France_, West Half.) + +From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences the +loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty +woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine +and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line, +between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from Neussargues, +7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from Marvejols, is the highest +bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine of +the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The span of the great arch is 541½ +ft., and the length of the viaduct 1851 ft. + + +[Headnote: BRIOUDE.] + +{304}{226} ++BRIOUDE+, 1430 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce. +A dirty town on a tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church +St. Julien (restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, +of red sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three +portals. The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain +buttresses, over which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the +church is another portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large +semicircular arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns +bearing large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, +but plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in +the two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a +lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a +cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the +chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white +stones. + +The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers +with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged +capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up +triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a +profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some +beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt. + +Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Hôtel +de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain. + + +[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC.] + +{318½}{211½} ++ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC+, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, near +the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for St. Etienne +54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) + + +[Headnote: LANGEAC.] + +{323}{207} ++LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map +p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the train passes through a most +picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast masses of basalt, +either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonal +columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between vertical +cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried past +in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, +on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains of +the old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at the +next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. from Langeac, is an interesting church, +11th cent., against a rock. Then follow the stations of +Monistrol-d'Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91); Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, +2238 ft. + + +[Headnote: LANGOGNE.] + +{364½}{165½} ++LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc; +Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt +here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m. farther S. is Luc +station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La Bastide, 3070 ft., the +culminating point of the line. A few miles to the W. of the station is +the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, 6 m. S., the station is only +2580 ft. above the sea. The line now passes by immense rocks and cliffs +of granite. + + +{390}{140} ++VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft., pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a +deep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for +Mende, passing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W. + + +Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi. + A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the + Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an + unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in + rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the + neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and + plenty of game on the mountains. + +From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country +by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the two +stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc +mines commence which extend to Alais. + + +[Headnote: ALAIS.] + +{419}{111} ++ALAIS+, pop. 22,000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg; +Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and +Tamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is the +best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozère, +traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some very +capital wine is made at Alais. + +Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to Teil (see +p. 96, and map p. 56); also to Laudun, 35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map +p. 56). + + +{450}{80} ++NÎMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66). + + +{467}{63} ++TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66). + + +{470}{60} ++ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66). + + +{499½}{30½} ++ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66). + + +{512½}{17½} ++ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66). + + +{518}{12} ++PAS-DES-LANCIERS.+ + + +{530}{ } ++MARSEILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123). + + +[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART.] + + miles from CLERMONT + miles to MARSEILLES + ++Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+, + +122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic 12½ m., +Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La +Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., +Meymac 73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. N.E. from +Brive. + +From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the +highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first +station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, +adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to +Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher +up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded +in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and +fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low +tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the +small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt +supported on six colonnettes. + +In the "Place" is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of +J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The +narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the +Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs +of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to +flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to +Clermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing the +Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the +valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the +bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most +important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment; +temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate of +sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a +little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1½ +fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season. + +Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment +the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-class +houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre; +Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. +from Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalières. A great variety +of excursions in the neighbourhood. + + + miles from CLERMONT + miles to MARSEILLES + +{5}{117} ++DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains. + + +[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD.] + +{12½}{109½} ++VOLVIC.+ In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries of +lava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. +Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent view +of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on +an eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Bannière. The parish church +dates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are +the principal industries (see p. 369). + +The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches +20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m. +distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await +passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the +Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater +of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important +argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood. + + +[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE.] + +{40½}{81½} ++LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. above the sea. Change here for +Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The +beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore passes through at about halfway +the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above the sea. Immediately below Le +Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule passes through the village of +St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea. + + ++MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+ + + is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the + Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._--Considering the style of + their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in + the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes + coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The + difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around + the "Place" of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses, + Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc + and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is + rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be + considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are + apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat; + H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; H. + Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a + handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and + the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the + Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the + other two are occupied by the first-class hotels. + + The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well + adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to + treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just + within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la + Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the + usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in + two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the + bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, + temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises + in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the + Source César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the + left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used + at table mixed with the wine. + + Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some + little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow + in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others + are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act + upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate + arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose. + + The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the + month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during + July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs + then 2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c. + Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from + 109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water + in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the + sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by + tickets bought at the office of the baths. + + [Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule.] + +[Headnote: ANALYSIS OF THE WATER.] + + CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE. + + MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring. + PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring. + RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perrière and + Choussy Springs. + + +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ + | | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS | + +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ + |Free carbonic |0.3552 |0.3810 |0.3644 |0.5967 |0.4997 |0.0518 | + | acid gas | | | | | | | + |Bicarbonate |0.5362 |0.5452 |0.5375 |0.5361 |0.5362 |2.8920 | + | of soda | | | | | | | + | " of potash |0.0309 |0.0309 |0.0232 |0.0212 |0.0212 | .... | + | " of lime |0.3423 |0.3142 |0.3092 |0.3209 |0.2720 |0.1905 | + | " of magnesia |0.1757 |0.1676 |0.1628 |0.1676 |0.1647 | .... | + | " of protoxide |0.0207 |0.0235 |0.025 |0.0258 |0.0317 |0.0021 | + | of iron | | | | | | | + |Chloride of Sodium|0.3685 |0.3630 |0.3599 |0.3587 |0.3578 |2.8406 | + |Sulphate of soda |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0756 |0.0737 |0.2084 | + |Arseniate of soda |0.00096|0.00096|0.00096|0.0009 |0.00095|0.02847| + |Silicic acid |0.1654 |0.1686 |0.1653 |0.1552 |0.1550 |0.1200 | + |Alumina |0.0112 |0.0094 |0.0101 |0.0083 |0.0065 |Traces.| + +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ + + Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of + potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both + waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 + times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. + The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or + 27° above the hottest of Mont-Dore. + + These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, + asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders + marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, + nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden's _Health + Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily + by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and + is often attended with diarrhoea about the fifth or sixth day; this is + mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently + lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of + the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the + saturation point has been obtained. --Lee's _Baths_. + + As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing + is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20 + to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day. + +[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH.] + + _Excursions._--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around + Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests + and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen + waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against + the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the + craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls + over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The + Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of + finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the + different places. + + One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du + Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way + between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most + beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from + Lake Guéry (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. + The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, + tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls + of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the + falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of + Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion + may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs. + + Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are + made to the Cascades de l'Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1¾ m., and + to the Pré du Barbier. + +[Headnote: LAKE GUÉRY.] + + The excursion to Lake Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to + Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a + turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a + charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To + the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the + Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d'Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. + Lake Guéry, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. + from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged + peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile, + stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one + side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right + the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of + the Giant's Causeway. + +[Headnote: ORCIVAL.] + + 4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an + inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous + image found near it under the earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is + the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From + Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S. + + N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, + 5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in + an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient + camp. + + 9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some + menhirs. + + The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. E. + from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather + less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne. + + From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by + Lake Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a + bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see + p. 381). + + To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the + cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the + top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385). + +[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN.] + + The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+, + 6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, + and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. + Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From + the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d'Eau on + the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and + shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a + landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a + little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 + ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, + separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. + Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. + above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where + the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a + serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the + foot leads to an old alum mine. + + The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course + of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having + crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in + the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. charged + for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about + 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the + highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that + great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in + circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid + granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount + the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin + des Crètes. + + 3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet + on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a + miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to + the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at + Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried + between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on + the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or + 10¼ m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 + ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full + to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, + completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs + from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on + this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At + the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular + cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen, + supposed to come from Lake Pavin. + + 3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is + Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_ + Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the + neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It + contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, + one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre + of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it + is converted into shops and dwellings. + +[Headnote: MUROLS.] + + From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the + highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses + beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, + St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_ + Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle, + many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone + of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a + formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence + of the lords of Murols et d'Estaing. From the top of the repaired + tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, + Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, + the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, + passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 + ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. + A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the + lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite + mountain. + + The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back + is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and + Murols the entire distance is 32 m. + +[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLÉE D'ENFER.] + + A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as + well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the + pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having + reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the + road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a + few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the + inscription: "Petit Chemin du Capucin," which take. Shortly after it + divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open + space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the + left goes to the Vallée d'Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the + road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which + divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du + Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, + commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle, + like a monk's hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather + difficult to ascend. + + To go to the +Vallée d'Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the + Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, + near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the + opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d'Enfer; those on + horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d'Enfer is an arid + narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical + dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or + return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N. + + +[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES.] + +BOURBOULE. + + 8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of + the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 + ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to + the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of + Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their + especial virtue--the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little + milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is + at Mont-Dore. + + _Hotels._--Around the principal establishment, called the + Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; + Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de ¹l'Etablissement; ¹Paris; + ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc + de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also + the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms. + + At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; + Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental. + + Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to + let. + + The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with + first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in + which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of + August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room + and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. + Service, ½ to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From + the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to + the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should + bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers. + + The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed + upon beforehand it will be much the same. + + The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three + bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des + Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the + side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and + Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement + Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part + of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent. + + In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to + 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to + the 30th September, 2½ frs. + + In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the + Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy. + + The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and + in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs. + + The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation + or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including + the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays + double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr. + + +[Headnote: SPRINGS.] + ++The Springs.+ + + Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the + right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, + in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and + Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru + bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap + the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 + ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, + a temperature of 140° F. + + These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet + discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are + the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, + 104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two + springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° + F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, + are drunk with wine at dinner. + + ++Their Constituents and Effects.+ + + Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of + a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly + one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride + of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the + arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these + waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of + the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested + development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and + other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as + enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases + of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more + especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule + claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they + arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as + the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary + consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic + bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters. + + +[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.] + ++Bourboule Excursions.+ + + On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that + it is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the Cascade du + Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. from + Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4-1/3 m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. + from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit of the Puy + Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from the village of St. + Sauves, and 10-4/5 m. from Latour. The most of these places are + between Mont-Dore and Bourboule. + + The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially + to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid + specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right + or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix + path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses + the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of + junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont + Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the + Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the + Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout + way, but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble + into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber's shaving basin. + A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the + cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high, + 2¼ m. from Bourboule. + + On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule and + 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the summit of the Puy + Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea. + + +[Headnote: SAINT-NECTAIRE.] + ++Mont-Dore to Issoire+, + +31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m. +Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E. The +Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup +and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and +traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at ++Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas+, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_ +Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc. + +N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large +bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_ +Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and +stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and are recommended +for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, and gout. The +specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In +Mont Cornadore are large caves. + + The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen + of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a + dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. + distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is + Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the + Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be + ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by + the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with + caves, 3 m. from Issoire (p. 372). + + ++Continuation of Route--Clermont to Brive.+ + +14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68 m. +N.E. from Brive, is +Eyguirande+, pop. 1150. Junction here with +loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S., passing +Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black's _South France_, West Half). + +31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is +Meymac+, pop. 3200, on the +Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. +Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to +Limoges. (See _South France_, West Half.) + +[Headnote: TULLE. BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE.] + +16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is +Tulle+, pop. +15,500, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms +and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called +tulle. + +122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from +Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is +Brive-la-Gaillarde+, pop. +12,000, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black's _South +France_, West Half). + + + * * * * * + * * * * + * * * * * + + +INDEX. + + ABRIES 344 + Acqui 184 + Agay 147 + Aiguebelle 289 + Aigueperse 368 + Aigues-Mortes 73 + Aiguilles 344 + Aime 321 + Aix-en-Provence 78, 338 + · olive oil 79 + + +Aix+-les-Bains 283 + ---- to Geneva by Annecy 286 + Alacoque, M. M. 27 + Alais 375 + Alan 49 + Alassio 208 + Albenga 208 + Albertville 320 + ---- to Annecy 320 + Albissóla 210 + Alesia 19 + + Alessandria 280 + Alise-St. Reine 19 + Allègre 89 + Allevard-les-Bains 336 + Allos 339 + Alvernia 279 + Alzon 105 + Amberieux 281 + Ambert 91 + Amplepuis 348 + Ampuis 81 + · wine 81 + + Amyot, Jacques 3 + Ancy-le-Franc 18 + Annecy 286 + Annonay 81 + Antibes 154, 169 + Antraigues 94 + Apricale 201 + Aps 97 + Apt 66 + · preserves 66 + Aramon 99 + Arenzano 211 + Ardèche, sketch of 45 + ---- coaches to 45 + ---- map of 46 + Ardes 373 + Arezzo 279 + Arfeuilles 346 + Arlanc 90 + + Arles 68, 376 + · to Fontvieille 71 + · to Port Bouc 72 + · to Port St. Louis 72 + · to St. Gilles 72 + + Arma 207 + Arsac 86 + Artemart 282 + Arvant 373 + Aspres 48, 345 + Astet 89 + Asti 280 + Aubagne 122 + Aubenas 93 + Aups 145, 167 + Auribeau 156 + Autun 24 + Auxerre 14 + Avallon 16 + Avenza 222 + + +Avignon+ 58 + · Benezet's bridge 63 + · ---- tomb 62 + · Hotels 58 + · Hôtel de Ville 61 + · J. S. Mill's tomb 63 + · Laura's tomb 62 + · Musée Calvet 61 + · Museum of Natural History 62 + · Notre Dame des Doms 60 + · Popes' palace 58 + · Rocher des Doms 60 + · St. Agricol 61 + · St. Didier 62 + · St. Joseph 62 + · St. Nicolas 63 + · St. Pierre 62 + · to Manosque by Cavaillon 66 + · to Nîmes 64 + · to Vaucluse 64 + · to Villeneuve 63 + + BAGNOLES-LES-BAINS 375 + Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99 + Bains 91 + Balaruc 76 + Bandols 123 + Banges 285 + Bar 163 + Barcelonnette 341 + · to Cuneo 341 + · to St. Paul 341 + + Bardonnechia 291 + Barjols 143, 167 + Barrème 166 + Baths--Acqui 184 + ---- Aix-les-Bains 283 + ---- Aix-en-Provence 78 + ---- Allevard 336 + ---- Bagnols 375 + ---- Balaruc 76 + ---- Bourboule 383 + ---- Bourbon-Lancy 358 + ---- Bourbon l'Archambault 357 + ---- Challes 284, 288 + ---- Châteauneuf 369 + ---- Châtelguyon 369 + ---- Chateldon 367 + ---- Cusset 365 + ---- Foncaude 75 + ---- Gréoulx 168 + ---- La Motte 327 + ---- Lucca 230 + ---- Marlioz 284 + ---- Mont-Dore 378 + ---- Neyrac 94 + ---- Pougues-les-Eaux 352 + ---- Royat 376 + ---- Sail 348 + ---- St. Alban 348 + ---- St. Galmier 348 + ---- St. Giuliano 227 + ---- St. Honoré 354 + ---- St. Mart 377 + ---- St. Nectaire 385 + ---- Uriage 336 + ---- Valdieri 181, 182 + ---- Vals 103 + ---- Vichy 359 + ---- Vinadio 183 + + Beage, Le 84 + Beaucaire 67 + Beauchastel 82 + Beaufort 46 + Beaujolais 29 + Beaulieu 184 + Beaune 23 + Beaurières 48 + Beausset 123 + + Bec-de-l'Homme 331 + Becket, Thomas à 11, 15, 17 + Bedoin 56 + Belgentier 129 + Bellentre 321 + Belleville 29 + Belvedère 181 + Berarde 330 + Berlingots 56 + + Bernadette Soubirous 353 + Berre 77 + Bersezio 342 + Bessée 344 + ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 344 + Besse-en-Chandesse 381 + Beza, T. 15 + Billom 350 + Blaizy-Bas 20 + Bobbio 306 + Bogliasco 219 + Boileau 2 + Bollène 50 + + +Bologna+ 315 + · Accademia 315 + · Ai Servi (church), 318 + · Annunziata 320 + · Biblioteca Communale 318 + · Bolognese school 315 + · Cabs 315 + · Certosa 320 + · Galvani 316 + · Guido's grave 319 + · Madonna di S. Luca 320 + · Mezzofanti 316 + · Pal. Mercanzia 318 + · Pal. Zampieri 318 + · Picture gallery 315 + · S. Bartolommeo 318 + · S. Domenico 319 + · S. G. Maggiore 316 + · S. Petronio 317 + · S. Pietro 319 + · S. Stefano 318 + · S. Vitale 319 + · Torre Asinelli 317 + · Torre Garisenda 317 + · University 316 + Bondonneau 49 + + +Bordighera+ 200 + Bormes 142 + Borne 89 + Bossuet, J. B. 22 + Bouillabaisse 113 + Boulerie 147 + Bourbon-Lancy baths 358 + Bourbon-l'Archambault baths 357 + + +Bourboule+ 383 + Bourdeaux 47 + Bourg-Argental 81 + Bourg-d'Oisans 329 + ---- to Lac Blanc 329 + ---- to the Ecrin group 329 + Bourgoin 322 + Bourg-St. Andeol 97 + Bourg-St. Maurice 321 + Breuil, Le 373 + Briançon 332 + ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345 + ---- to Oulx 333 + Briare 352 + Brignoles 142, 167 + Brillane 339 + Brioude 374 + Brive 386 + Brogny 287 + Brunoy 2 + Buffon, Comte de 18 + Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24 + Busalla 279 + Bussoleno 291 + + CAGNES 165 + Callian 162 + Camaldoli 278 + Camargue 70, 72 + Campo-Rosso 201 + + +Cannes+ 149 + · Agents 149 + · Adalbert 151, 159 + · Antibes 154 + · Auribeau 156 + · Banks 151 + · Brougham, Lord 151, 155 + · Cabs 151 + · Californie 152 + · Canal 152, 162 + · Cannet 154 + · Castelaras 156 + · Cemetery 152 + · Churches 151 + · Clausonne 154 + · Climate 151 + · Corniche 152 + · Croisette, La 154 + · Croix des Gardes 155 + · Drives 152 + · Estérels 155 + · Hesperide 154 + · Hotels and Pensions 149 + · Iron Mask 157 + · Lerins Islands 156 + · Mont Vinaigre 156 + · Mouans-Sartoux 156 + · Mougins 156 + · Napoule 154 + · N. D. d'Esperance 151 + · Observatories 151, 152 + · Pegomas 156 + · Pottery 153 + · St. Anne 151 + · St. Cassien 155 + · St. Honorat 158 + · St. Marguerite 157 + · Théoule 155 + · Vallauris 153 + + Carnoules 142 + Carpentras 54 + + +Carqueyranne+ 141 + · Mont Negre 141 + · Mont Paradis 141 + + Carrara 222 + Casset, Le 332 + Cassini, G. D. 201 + Castellane 165 + Castellaro 206 + Cavaillon 66 + Cayres 88 + Celles-les-Bains 83 + Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354 + Certosa 184 + Cervo 208 + Cesanne 333 + Cette 75 + ---- to Balaruc 76 + Chablis 14 + Chabons 323 + Chagny 24, 355 + Chaise-Dieu 89 + Challes 284, 288 + Chalon-sur-Saône 26 + Chambertin 23 + Chambery 287 + Chambon 380 + Champeix 385 + Charenton 2 + Charmes 82 + Charmettes, Les 288 + Châteauneuf (Riom) 369 + Châteauroux 343 + Châtelard, Le 285 + Chateldon 367 + Châtelguyon 369 + Châtillon 47 + Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282 + Châtillon-sur-Loing 351 + Châtillon-sur-Loire 352 + Chavanay 81 + Cheilard 83 + Chenal 341 + Chiavari 220 + Chiomonte 291 + Chorges 342 + Cirque-d'Annibal 321 + Citeaux abbey 23 + Claix 328, 345 + Clamecy 354, 15 + Clelles 345 + + +Clermont-Ferrand+ 369 + · Academie 371 + · Botanic gardens 371 + · Cathedral 370 + · Coaches 370 + · Hotels 369 + · Notre Dame 371 + · Pascal's house 370 + · Peter the Hermit 371 + · Preserved fruits 370 + · Puy de Dome 372 + · Romagnat 372 + · to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376 + · to Lyons by St. Etienne 349 + + Cluny 27 + Cogoleto 210 + Cogolin 145 + Col Abriés 307 + ---- Braus 183 + ---- Brouis 183 + ---- Cabres 48 + ---- Cerise 181 + ---- Chavade 89 + ---- Croix 306 + ---- Finestra 181 + ---- Fremamorta 181 + ---- Lautaret 331 + ---- Longet 341 + ---- Maddalena 342 + ---- Maure 339 + ---- Moulières 181 + ---- Muselle 330 + ---- Mulo 342 + ---- Ribeyret 51 + ---- Sestrières 307 + ---- Tenda 183 + ---- Traversette 308, 344 + Colla, La 202 + Colmars 339 + Collobrières 130 + Columbus 211 + Condamine-Châtelard 342 + Condamine, La 189 + + Condrieu 81 + · wine 81 + Cornigliano 212 + Corps 334 + Correggio 313 + Corsena 230 + Cosne 352 + Cote d'Or 22 + Coupe-d'Aizac 94 + Courmayeur 322 + Courpière 91 + Courty 350 + Craponne 89 + Cravant 14, 355 + Crest 46 + ---- to Aspres 47 + Crissolo 308, 344 + Croisière, La 50 + Croix Blanche 105 + Cruseilles 287 + Cruzy-le-Chatel 18 + Cuers 130, 142 + Culinary terms xxiii + Culoz 282 + Cuneo 182, 279, 308 + ---- to Barcelonnette 341 + ---- to Nice 182 + Cusset 365 + + DARCEY 19 + Darsac 89 + ---- to Chaise-Dieu 89 + Dauphin, Le 331 + Decize 25 + Demonte 342 + Dent de Nivolet 288 + Dent-du-Chat 282 + Diano Marina 208 + Die 47 + Dieulefit 47 + Digne 166 + Digoin 358 + Dijon 20 + Doctors' fees 110 + Dolce-Acqua 201 + Domène 336 + Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357 + Donzère 50 + Doussard 287 + Draguignan 145 + Duingt 287 + Duke of Berwick 356 + Duranus 180 + Durtol 377 + + EAUX CHAUDES 166 + Embrun 343 + Enchastraye 330 + Entraque 181 + Epinac 24 + Escragnolles 165 + Espaly 89 + Estaque, L' 80 + Estérels 146, 156 + Etang 25 + Eugene Sué 286 + Eyguirande 386 + Eze 186 + + FAYENCE 145 + Fenestrelle 307 + Feurs 346 + Fiesole 276 + Finalmarina 209 + Fix-St. Geneys 91 + Flavigny 19 + + +Florence+ 233 + · Academy of Fine Arts 271 + · Alkermes 268 + · Alvernia 279 + · Amerigo Vespucci 275 + · Arcetri 248 + · Arezzo 279 + · Badia, La 263 + · Baptistery 256 + · Bargello 261 + · Bello Sguardo 250 + · Bibbiena 279 + · Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266 + · ---- Nazionale 236 + · Bigallo, Il 257 + · Boboli Gardens 246 + · Brancacci chapel 252 + · Brunelleschi's crucifix 268 + · Cab tariff 234 + · Camaldoli 278 + · Campanile 255 + · Cascine 276 + · Cathedral 252 + · Certosa 250 + · Dante 258 + · David, by Michael Angelo 272 + · Donatello's crucifix 260 + · Duomo 252 + · Galileo 247, 260 + · Galleria Uffizi 237 + · Gallery of mosaics 273 + · Guide books 234 + · Hawkwood, John 255 + · Hospital St. Giovanni 275 + · Hotels and apartments 233 + · House of Amerigo Vespucci 275 + · ---- of Dante 274 + · ---- of Galileo 248 + · ---- of Macchiavelli 247 + · ---- of Michael Angelo 263 + · Ketterick, John 259 + · Loggia Orcagna 235 + · Luca della Robbia ware 263 + · Masaccio 252 + · Money-changers 234 + · Monte Oliveto 251 + · Mortuary chapel 255 + · Mosaic manufacture 273 + · Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267 + · ---- Nat. Hist. 247 + · National Museum 261 + · Niobe 242 + · Ognissanti 275 + · Or St. Michele 257 + · Palaces 273 + · Palazzo Corsini 275 + · ---- Riccardi 275 + · ---- Strozzi 275 + · ---- Torrigiani 276 + · ---- Vecchio 274 + · Park 276 + · Pazzi chapel 260 + · Perazzi chapel 259 + · Piazza S. Annunziata 269 + · ---- S. Croce 258 + · ---- Signoria 235 + · Piazzale Michelangiolo 249 + · Picture gallery of S. Marco 270 + · Pitti gallery 243 + · ---- palace 246 + · Pontassieve 278 + · Porta Romana 248 + · Post office 236 + · Prefettura della Provincia 275 + · Protestant churches 234 + · Raphael 239 + · Refectory of S. Croce 261 + · Restaurants 234 + · Rucellai chapel 268 + · Sagrestia Nuova 265 + · S. Annunziata 268 + · S. Croce 258 + · S. Giovannino 264 + · S. Lorenzo 264 + · S. Marco 270 + · S. Maria del Carmine 252 + · S. Maria del Fiore 252 + · ---- Novella 267 + · S. Michele 257 + · S. Miniato 249 + · S. Spirito 251 + · Sarto, Andrea del 269 + · Savonarola 270 + · Sights 234 + · Spezeria 268 + · Straw-plaiting 277 + · Torre del Gallo 248 + · Tribuna 238 + · ---- di Galileo 247 + · Uffizi gallery 237 + · Vallombrosa 278 + · Venus de Medici 238 + · Views 250 + + Foncaude baths 75 + Fontainebleau 3 + Fontana 183 + Fontenay abbey 19 + Forcalqueiret 129 + Fos 76 + Fourchambault 353 + Freaux, Les 331 + Frejus 146 + Freney, Le 331 + Frontignan 75 + · salt 75 + · wine 75 + + GALLINARIA 208 + Gannat 368 + Gap 340, + ---- to Barcelonnette 340 + ---- to Grenoble 342 + Garabit, Pont de 374 + Gardanne 80, 142, 338 + ---- to Carnoules 142 + + Genoa 212, 279 + · Accademia 216 + · Acquasola 216 + · Albergo dei Poveri 218 + · Cabs 213, + · Cafés 213, + · Campo-Santo 218 + · Cathedral 217 + · Corsos 213 + · English church 212 + · Hotels 212 + · Money-changers 213 + · Palazzo Adorno 216 + · ---- Balbi 215 + · ---- Doria 214 + · ---- ---- (Giorgio) 216 + · ---- Ducal 217 + · ---- Durazzo 215 + · ---- Municipicio 216 + · ---- Rosso 216 + · ---- Serra 216 + · ---- Spinola 216 + · Post office 216 + · Royal Palace 214 + · S. Ambrogio 217 + · S. Annunziata 215 + · S. Maria in Carignano 218 + · S. Matteo 217 + · S. Siro 215 + · Shops 212 + · Steamers 213 + · Telegraph office 213 + · Valdensian church 212 + · Via Circonvallazione 213 + · Via Milano 214 + + Gerbier-de-Joncs 84 + Gevrey 23 + Giandola 183 + Gien 351 + + +Giens+ 140 + · La Madrague 141 + · Le Chateau 141 + · Salt works 141 + · Semaphore 141 + + Gières 336 + Gilly 358 + Givors-Canal 81, 349 + Gleyzin glacier 337 + Golf Jouan 169 + Goncelin 336 + Gonfaron 131 + Gourdon 163 + Grand Som 324 + Grande-Chartreuse 323 + Grande Combe 375 + Grasse 160 + Grave, La 331 + + +Grenoble+ 324 + · Bastile 325 + · Bayard 325 + · Coaches 325, 327 + · Gloves 327 + · Hotels 324 + · Library 326 + · Picture gallery 326 + · St. André 325 + · St. Laurent 327 + · to Barcelonnette 341 + · to Briançon 328 + · to Corps 333 + · to Gap 342 + · to La Motte-les-Bains 327 + · to Sassenage 327 + + Gréoulx 167 + Grignan 49 + Grimaud 144 + Guerigny 354 + Guillestre 344 + + HAUTECOMBE ABBEY 284 + Hermitage wine 43 + Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321 + + +Hyères+ 133 + · Banks 133 + · Butterflies 139 + · Cabs 134 + · Caterpillars 139 + · Charles of Anjou 136 + · Château, Le 136 + · Climate 140 + · Clubs 134 + · Cork trees 139 + · Costebelle 136 + · Drives 134 + · English Pharmacy 133 + · Episcopal Chapel 133 + · Fenouillet, Mont 137 + · Game 138 + · Hermitage 136 + · Hotels 133 + · Jardin d'Acclimatation 136 + · La Plage 140 + · Map 129 + · Massillon 135 + · Napoleon I. 136 + · Oiseaux Monts. 128 + · Olive trees 138 + · Palm sticks 108 + · Palms 136 + · Paradis, Mont 141 + · Pauline, La 142 + · Pipes 139 + · Potence 139 + · Productions 139 + · St. Louis 136 + · St. Paul 135 + · Stage coaches 134 + · Temple Protestant 133 + · Town water 139 + · Trou des Fées 138 + · View from Le Château 137 + + ILES DE LERINS 157 + Iles d'Or 131 + Il Serraglio 230 + + Issoire 372, + · coach to St. Nectaire 385 + + Isola Buona 201 + Istres 76 + Italian railway terms and time-tables 200, 291 + + JAUJAC 95 + Jausiers 342 + Javie 339 + Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22 + Joigny 14 + Jouques 79 + Joyeuse 96 + + LA BALME 282 + La Barben 79 + La Bastide 375 + La Begude 93 + La Bollene 181 + La Chalp 306 + La Chambre 289 + La Charité 352 + La Ciotat 122 + La Crau 130 + La Garde 128, 130 + La Garde Fraiseinet 144 + La Madrague 141 + La Monta 344 + La Mothe 94 + La Palisse 346, 368 + La Pauline 142 + La Roche 14 + La Salle 334 + La Salette 334 + La Sauvetat 88 + La Seyne 123 + La Valette 128 + La Voulte 82 + + Lachamp-Raphael 84 + Laffrey 333 + Lagnieu 282 + Laigueglia 208 + Lake Allos 339 + ---- Annecy 286 + ---- Bourget 282 + ---- Paladru 323 + ---- Pavin 381 + ---- Thau 76 + Lamartine 27 + Lambesc 80 + Langeac 91, 375 + Langogne 95, 375 + ---- to Le Puy 88 + Lans-le-Bourg 290 + Lantosque 180 + Laqueuille 377 + ---- to Mont-Dore 377 + ---- to Bourboule 377 + Larche 342 + Largentière 96 + ---- to Les Laumes 14 + Larzac 106 + Laudun 99 + Laurent-du-Pont 323 + Lauzet 331 + Lauzet, Le 341 + Lavandou 143 + + Le Barroux 57 + Le Beage 84 + Le Bouchet 88 + Le Buis 57 + Le Creusot 25 + Le Monastier 85 + Le Pal 96 + Le Peage de Roussillon 43 + Le Pouzin 92 + Le Puy 86 + Le Teil 93 + Le Trayas 149 + + Leghorn 226 + Lemons 191, 194, 201 + Lerici 221 + Les Arcs 145 + Les Baux 67 + Les Etables 85 + Les Etages 330 + Les Laumes 19 + Les Marches 289, 338 + Les Piles 51 + Les Saintes Maries 72 + Les Salins 141 + + Leschaux 287 + Levant, Ile du 132 + Levens 180 + Limone 183 + L'Isle 64 + Livet 329 + Livron 46 + Loano 209 + Lorgues 145 + Lord Clarendon 356 + Lovagny 286 + Luc 144 + + +Lucca+ 227 + · Cabs 227 + · Cathedral 228 + · Hotels 227 + · Picture gallery 228 + · S. Frediano 229 + · S. Michele 229 + Luc-en-Diois 48 + + Lunel 72 + · wine 73 + Lurs 339 + Luserna 305 + Luzy 25 + + +Lyons+ 29 + · Antiquaille Hospital 33 + · Aqueduct 34 + · Boats, Penny 31 + · Bourse 38 + · Cabs 30 + · Cathedral 34 + · Cheese 42 + · Condition des Soies 37 + · Distances 29 + · First sewing-machine 38 + · Flourvière 32 + · History 41 + · Hospice 39 + · Hôtel de Ville 37 + · ---- Dieu 39 + · Hotels 29 + · Ile Barbe 42 + · Jacquard's loom 38 + · Libraries 37, 38 + · Minerals 37 + · Mont Ceindre 41 + · ---- d'Or 42 + · Musée Archéologique 36 + · ---- Guimet 40 + · ---- Lapidaire 35 + · ---- of Silk 38 + · Notre Dame 33 + · Observatoire Gay 33 + · Palais de Justice 35 + · ---- des Beaux Arts 35 + · Park 40 + · Picture gallery 36 + · Place des Terreaux 37 + · Post office 30 + · Préfecture 37 + · Railway station 30 + · St. Bruno 37 + · St. Irénée 34 + · St. Martin d'Ainay 39 + · St. Nizier 35 + · St. Paul 33 + · St. Pierre 35 + · St. Polycarpe 37 + · Sights 32 + · Silk museum 38 + · Squares (Places) 32 + · Steamers 31 + · Tête d'Or 40 + · Theatres 31 + · to Nîmes 81 + · Trams 31 + · Weavers 40 + · Workhouse (Hospice) 39 + + MACON 26 + · wines 24 + Maisons-Alfort 2 + Malaucene 57 + Manosque 66, 166, 168, 339 + Marcols 84 + Marlioz 284 + + +Marseilles+ 80, 111 + · Anglican chapel 112 + · Arc de Triomphe 116 + · Biblothèque 117 + · Bishop Belsunce 116 + · Boats 112 + · Bonneveine 113 + · Bouillabaisse 113 + · Bourse 116 + · Cabs 111 + · Canal 77 + · Cathedral 115 + · Charities 119 + · Château Borely 113 + · Commerce 120 + · Consigne 115 + · Corniche 113 + · Custom-house 112 + · École des Beaux Arts 117 + · History 120 + · Hôtel de Ville 115 + · Hotels 111 + · If, island of 118 + · Industries 119 + · Joliette 115 + · Lazarus's grave 119 + · Lycée 117 + · Marseillaise, the 120 + · Martigues 118 + · Money-changers 112 + · Musée d'Archéologie 113 + · Notre Dame 117 + · Observatory 115 + · Palais de Justice 116 + · ---- Longchamp 114 + · Port 115 + · Préfecture 116 + · Reservoir 115 + · St. Victor 117 + · Sights 112, + · Steamboats 112 + · Temple 112 + · to Grenoble 338 + · to Menton 112 + · Trams 113, + · Zoological garden 115 + + Martinet 341 + Mary Magdalene 124, 145 + Massa 223 + Maurin 341 + Mayres 89, 94 + Meana 291 + Meije 331 + Melun 2 + Menthon 287 + + +Menton+ 193 + · Annunciata 196 + · Banks 194 + · Bennet garden 197 + · Berceau 196 + · Cabs 194 + · Cape St. Martin 195 + · Castellar 196 + · Castellon 197 + · Caves 195 + · Churches 194 + · Ciotti 197 + · Climate 199 + · Gorvio 197 + · Gourg-d'Ora 197 + · Grimaldi 197 + · Hanbury grounds 197 + · Hotels 193 + · Mont Baudon 196 + · Monti 198 + · Mortola 197 + · St. Agnese 196 + · ---- (village) 197 + · St. Louis 196 + · to Genoa 199 + + Meounes 129 + Meursault 24 + Meymac 386 + Meyrargues 80 + Meze 76 + Mezillac 84 + Mirabeau 338 + Mirabouc 306 + Miramas 76 + ---- to Port Bouc 76 + Modane 290 + ---- by road to Susa 290 + + +Modena+ 313 + · Campanile 314 + · Cathedral 314 + · Library 314 + · Museo Lapidario 315 + · Picture gallery 314 + Moirans 324 + + +Monaco+ 187 + Monastier, Le 85 + Mondoví 184, 304 + Monestier de Clermont 345 + Monètier de Briançon 332 + Monge, Gaspard 23 + Monistrol-d'Allier 91 + Mons cave 163 + Mont Agel 192 + ---- Aulas 105 + ---- Auxois 19 + ---- Belledonne 336 + ---- Cenis 290 + ---- ---- Hospice 290 + ---- Chenavari 93 + ---- Coudon 125, 128 + ---- Faron 127 + ---- Ferrand 331 + ---- Genèvre 333 + ---- Gergovia 372 + ---- Grand Sambiu 79 + ---- Gravenne 96 + ---- Meidassa 305, 344 + ---- Mezenc 85 + ---- Pelvoux 333, 344, 345 + ---- Pilat 348 + ---- Pirchiriano 291 + ---- Protomagno 278 + ---- Sancy 381 + ---- Semnoz 287 + ---- Taillefer 329 + ---- Ventoux 56, 57 + ---- Vestide 96 + ---- Viso 305, 344 + Montagnac 88 + Montallieu 281 + Montargis 351 + Montauroux 162 + Montbard 18 + Montbrison 349 + Montchanin 25 + Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378 + ---- to Issoire 385 + ---- to St. Nectaire 385 + Mont Dauphin 306, 307, 343 + ---- to Saluzzo 344 + Monte Carlo 189, 192 + Monte Grosso 210 + Montélimart 48 + Montereau 10 + Montgeron 2 + Mont-Majour 71 + Montmélian 167, 289, 338 + + +Montpellier+ 73 + · École de Médecine 74 + · Musée Fabre 74 + · to Palavas 75 + · wine 75 + Montpezat 96 + Montrieux 129 + Moret 10 + Mornas 46 + Moulins 355 + ---- Les 190 + Moustiers Ste. Marie 167 + Moutiers on Doron 320 + Mure, La 334, 342 + Murols 382 + + NAPOLEON I. 64 + Napoule 156 + Narce 89, 94 + + +Nervi+ 219 + Neussargues 374 + Nevers 353 + Neyrac 94 + + +Nice+ 169 + · Banks 172 + · Booksellers 172 + · Cabs 173 + · Cafés 172 + · Carabacél 177 + · Caterina Segurmana 176 + · Cathedral 176 + · Château, Le 175 + · Churches 173 + · Cimiés 177 + · Climate 174 + · Clubs 172 + · Column 177 + · Confectioneries 173 + · Contes 174 + · Crois-de-Marbre 177 + · Diligences 173 + · Drives 178 + · Falicon 180 + · Garibaldi 176 + · Hotels and Pensions 170 + · House agents 172 + · Jardin Public 178 + · Luther 176 + · Massena 177 + · Memorial chapel 176 + · Money-changers 172 + · Mont Chauve 179 + · Monte Carlo 178 + · Museum 178 + · Observatory 180 + · Paganini 176 + · Palais de Lascaris 176 + · Pharmacies 172 + · Post office 172 + · Promenade 175 + · Protestant churches 173 + · Public library 172 + · St. André 179 + · St. Augustin 176 + · St. Jean 178 + · St. Pons 179 + · Val Obscur 178 + · Vallon des Fleurs 179 + · Vallons 174 + · Villa Clery 179 + · Villefranche 178, 184 + + Nicholas V. 221 + Nieigles 95 + Nîmes 101, 376 + ---- to Vigan 105 + Nolay 24 + Noli 209 + Novi 279 + Nuits 23 + Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18 + Nyons 50 + ---- to Serres 51 + + OLBON 83 + Olliergues 91 + Ollioules 123 + Olive tree 138 + Orange 51 + ---- Prince of 52 + Orcival 380 + Orgon 66 + Ortolans 56 + Ospedaletti 201, 202 + Oulx 291, 333 + Ours-Mons 88 + + PALAVAS 75 + Paradisino 278 + Paray-le-Monial 27 + Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346 + ---- to Marseilles 1 + ---- Directions 1 + ---- to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes 351 + ---- to Marseilles by Lyons 1 + ---- to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281 + ---- to Turin by Grenoble 322 + + Parma 310 + Parmesan cheese 313 + Pas-des-Lanciers 80, 88, 376 + Pegli 211 + Pelago 278 + Pelussin 81 + Perinaldo 201 + Perosa 307 + ---- to Cesanne 307 + ----to Mont-Dauphin 307 + Pertuis 77, 338 + Petite Afrique 186 + Petrarch 65 + Peyerbelle 89, 95 + Peyraud 81 + Peyrolles 79 + Piacenza 309 + Pian Fiorenza 308 + ---- del Ré 308 + Pierre-Chatel 334 + Pierrefeu 130 + Pietrasanta 223 + Pigna 201 + Pinerolo 306 + + +Pisa+ 223 + · Baptistery 225 + · Cabs 224 + · Campo Santo 225 + · Cathedral 224 + · Hotels 223 + · Leaning Tower 225 + · Post office 224 + · Santa Maria 226 + · University 226 + + Pistoja 231 + Polignac 89 + Pomaretto 307 + Pomponiana 143 + Pontaix 47 + Pontassieve 277 + Pont Avignon 99 + ---- d'Arc 97 + ---- de-la-Beaune 95 + ---- du-Gard 104 + ---- Ecofier 329 + ---- Gibaud 377 + ---- St. Esprit 98 + Pontcharra 337 + Pontigny 16 + Pontius Pilate 43 + Porquerolles 131 + Port Bouc 76 + ---- to Arles 76 + Port Cros 132 + ---- Grau du Roi 73 + ---- Man 132 + ---- St. Louis 72 + Porto Maurizio 207 + ---- Oneglia 208 + ---- Venere 220 + Portofino 220 + Pougues-les-Eaux 352 + Pouilly-sur-Loire 352 + Pourcheyrolles 95 + Pouzin 92 + Pra 211 + Pradelles 89, 95 + Prades (Ardèche) 95 + Prato 232 + Praz 289 + Pré-St Didier 321 + Prices 109 + Privas 92 + Puget, Pierre 80 + Puget-Theniers 182 + Puligny 24 + Puy-de-Dome 372 + + QUEYRAS 344 + Quincy abbey 18 + + RANDAN 366, 368 + Rapallo 220 + Reggio Emilia 313 + Remoulins 99 + Resin baths 48, 57 + Rians 79 + Riez 166, 168 + Riom 369 + Riouperoux 329 + Rioutort 96 + Ris 367 + Rives 323 + + +Riviera, the+ 107 + · Climate 108 + · Cost of living 109 + · road to 1 + · Vegetation 108 + + Roanne 346, 348 + Robilante 183 + Rocavignon 160 + Roche Cevins 320 + Rochemaure 92 + Rocher Blanc 164 + ---- Noir 165 + Rognac 77, 376 + ---- to Aix-en-Provence 77 + ---- to Roquefavour 77 + Romaneche 28 + Roquebillère 181 + Roquebrune 192 + Roquefavour aqueduct 77 + Roquemaure 99 + Roquotaillado tunnel 162 + Rosans 51 + Roumoulles 168 + Rousseau, J. J. 287, 288 + Rouvray 16 + Royat 376 + Ruoms 96 + Ruota 201 + + SAILLANS 47 + Sail-les-Bains 348 + Saincaize 355 + St. Agnan 358 + St. Agnes 131 + St. Alban 348 + St. Ambroix 96 + St. André-le-Gaz 322 + ---- to Chambery 322 + St. Auban 166, 339 + St. Baume (Agay) 147 + ---- (Bouches du Rhône) 144 + St. Bernard 27, 287 + St. Cannat 79 + St. Cesaire 162 + St. Chamas 76, 376 + St. Christophe 330 + St. Cyre 123 + St. Didier 57 + St. Edmund 17 + St. Etienne 346, 349 + · manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347 + St. Eulalie 96 + St. Florentin 16 + ---- to Chablis 16 + St. Galmier 346, 348 + St. Georges-d'Aurac 91, 374 + St. Germain 321 + St. Germain-au-Mont d'Or 29 + St. Germain-des-Fossés 358 + St. Gilles 72 + St. Honorat 158 + St. Honoré baths 354 + St. Honoré-les-Bains 25, 354 + St. Jean 185 + St. Jean du Bruel 106 + St. Julien-du-Sault 13 + St. Louis (king) 73 + St. Marcel caves 98 + St. Marcellin 324 + ---- to Pont-en-Royan 324 + St. Marguerite 157 + St. Mart 377 + St. Martin 98 + St. Martin-Lantosque 181 + St. Maurice 2, 50 + St. Maximin 143 + St. May 51 + St. Menet 122 + St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289 + St. Nazaire 123 + St. Nectaire 385 + St. Pardoux 357 + St. Paul-Trois-Château 50 + St. Péray 82 + · wine 82 + St. Pêre 15 + St. Pierre-d'Albigny 289 + ---- to Annecy 289 + ---- to Courmayeur 320 + St. Pierre-d'Argenson 48 + St. Pierreville 83 + St. Pilon 144 + St. Pons 341 + St. Priest 322 + St. Privat 91 + St. Rambert-d'Albon 43 + +St. Raphael+ 147 + St. Remi-en-Rollat 368 + St. Remy 67 + St. Sauveur 83, 182 + St. Seine 19 + St. Thomé 97 + St. Tropez 145 + St. Vallier 43, 165 + St. Yorre 366 + + Salon 66 + Saluzzo 307, 344 + ---- to Cuneo 307 + ---- to Mont Dauphin 308 + ---- to Paesana 308 + ---- to Sampeyre 308, 344 + Sampierdarena 212 + San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291 + San Chiaffredo 308 + San Dalmazzo 308 + San Giuliano 227 + + +San Remo+ 203 + · Cabs 203 + · Ceriana 204 + · Climate 204 + · Hotels 203 + · Madonna 205 + · Monte Bignone 205 + · Poggia 204 + · St. Romolo 205 + · ---- to Taggia 207 + + San Stefano 207 + San Terenzo 221 + Sancerre 352 + + +Santa Margherita+ 220 + Saou 46 + Sarzana 221 + Sassenage 327 + Sauclières 105 + Saugues 91 + Saulieu 16 + Saut-du-Loup 373 + Savigny 24 + Savines 343 + Savona 209 + + Sea bathing 110 + Séchilienne 329 + Seez 321 + Seine, source of 19 + Semur 16 + Senez 166 + Sens 10 + Sept Laux 337 + Sermizelles 15 + Serres 51, 340 + Serrières 81 + Sestri Levante 220 + ---- Ponente 212 + Settignano 277 + Seyne-les-Alpes 339 + + Shelley 221, 223 + Sisteron 339 + Six-Fours 123 + Solliès-Pont 129, 142 + Solliès-Ville 129, 142 + Sorgues 54 + Sospello 182 + Source of the Loire 84 + Souvigny 356 + Spezia 220 + Steam trams 304 + Sue du Pal 96 + Susa 291 + Suze-le-Rousse 50 + + TAGGIA 206, 207 + Tain 43 + Talloires 286 + Tanlay 17 + Tarascon 66, 376 + · Martha's grave 67 + Taulignan 49 + Tavernettes, Les 290 + Teil 93 + Tenay 282 + Tenda 183 + Termignon 290 + + Theoule 155 + Thezièrs 99 + Thiers 367, 350 + Thomery 10 + Thueyts 94 + Thuile 321 + Tonnerre 17 + Torre-Péllice 305 + ---- to Mont Dauphin 306 + + +Toulon+ 124 + · Arsenal 125 + · Bagne 125 + · Balaguier 127 + · Belle-Poule 124 + · Cap Brun 128 + · Cathedral 126 + · Dardenne 128 + · Diligences 129 + · Hotels 124 + · Le Pradet 128 + · Le Tamaris 127 + · Mont Faron 127 + · Omnibuses 124, 128 + · Port, the 124 + · Puget's house 126 + · Rue Lafayette 126 + · St. François de Paule 126 + · St. Mandrier 127 + · St. Marguerite 128 + · Smith, Sir Sydney 126 + · Temple Protestant 124 + · Town Hall 126 + Tour-du-Pin 322 + Tournon 82 + Tournus 26 + Trayas, Le 148 + Trets 144 + Trévoux 29 + Trinité-Victor 182 + Troy weight 13 + Troyes 11 + Truffles 55 + Tulle 386 + Turbie, La 191, 192 + + +Turin+ 292 + · Accademia Albertina 300 + · Armoury 297 + · Biblioteca del Ré 297 + · Booksellers 293 + · Cabs 292 + · Cafés 293 + · Castello, the 299 + · Cathedral 298 + · Cavour house 294 + · ---- monument 301 + · Cemetery 302 + · Gran Madre di Dio 300 + · Gressini 303 + · Hotels 292 + · King's palace 298 + · La Consolata 301 + · Medagliere del Ré 297 + · Money-changers 293 + · Monuments 293, 301 + · Museo Civico 299 + · Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294 + · Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297 + · Palazzo Carignano 297 + · ---- dell' Accademia delle Scienze 294 + · ---- di Citta 301 + · Piazza Carlo Felice 293 + · ---- dello Statuto 293 + · ---- San Carlo 293 + · ---- Vitt. Emanuele 300 + · Post and telegraph offices 293 + · Railway stations 293 + · Superga, La 302 + · Teatro Regio 298 + · Theatres 293 + · to Cuneo 153 + · to Florence 309 + · to Genoa 279 + · to Savona 183 + · Trams 292 + · University 300 + · Via di Po 300 + · Wines 303 + + UBAYE 341 + Uriage baths 336 + Usclades 96 + Uzès 99 + + VAISON 53 + Val Louise 333, 345 + Valbonne 98 + Valdieri 181, 182 + Valence 44 + ---- coaches from 45 + Vallauris 154 + Valleraugue 105 + Vallombrosa 278 + Vallon 97 + Valréas 49 + Vals 93 + Var 169 + Varazze 210 + Varennes 26 + Varzy 354 + Vassivières 381 + Vaucluse 64 + Vaugris 43 + Velars 20 + Venanson 181 + Vence 163 + Vence-Cagnes 169 + Vencigliato 277 + Venosc 330 + + Ventimiglia 200 + Vernet 91 + ---- (Digne) 339 + Verrey 19 + Vesseaux 93 + Veynes 340 + Vezelay 15 + Viareggio 223 + + +Vichy+ 359 + Vienne 42 + Vif 345 + Vigan 105 + ---- to Millau 105 + Villa Pallavicini 211 + Villard-d'Arène 331 + Villefort 375 + ---- to Bagnol-les-Bains 375 + Villefranche 184 + Villefranche-sur-Saône 29 + Villeperdrix 51 + Ville-la-Vieille 344 + Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63 + · Hospital 63 + · Marchioness de Ganges 63 + Villeneuve-St. George 2 + Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13 + Vinadio 183, 342 + Virieu 322 + Virieu-le-Grand 282 + Viviers 97 + Vizille 328, 333, 345 + Voghera 309 + Voiron 323 + · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323 + Voltri 211 + Volvic 369, 377 + Volx 339 + Voreppe 324 + · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324 + Vougeot 23 + Voulte, La 82 + Voute-Chilhac 91 + + WALDENSES, OR VAUDOIS 305 + Waldensian valleys 304 + Warrens, Mme. 286, 288 + Wellington 2 + +THE END. + +_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_. + + + * * * * * + * * * * + * * * * * + +Errors and Inconsistencies + + LIST OF MAPS: + +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 [text has "191"] + +A few points are missing "from" or "to" mileages. They have not been +individually noted. Two occurrences of "Coreggio" for "Correggio" have +been silently corrected. + +Map references are inconsistent. The "Rhône and Savoy" map was printed +twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is given +as "page 107"; in the text it is randomly cited as "page 27" and "page +26". "Map. p. 199" and "p. 200" both refer to the Italian Riviera map; +it is also cited twice as "p. 220". The map of Hyères (p. 129) is twice +cited as "p. 177". + + Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, [_elsewhere "Médicis"_] + Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), + [_closing parenthesis missing_] + H. Rigaud, 1552-1745 + [_text unchanged: Hyacinthe Rigaud 1659-1743_] + 23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die + [_text has "23 m. L."_] + [Pisa] in the Lung' Arno Regio [_text has "Lung 'Arno"_] + [headnote] ... S. FREDIANO [_text has "S. FREDIANA"_] + E vi mori il 6 Giugno 1861." [_close quote missing_] + and for description, Black's _France_, North half). + [_closing parenthesis missing_] + + +Avignon to Nîmes+ ... + [_text has 110 for 101 and 114 for 104_] + [Florence] + ... in the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. [_text has 166 for 266_] + From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line + [_text has 246 for 346_] + + INDEX + _Inconsistencies between Index and body text were changed when one + form was clearly wrong; others are simply noted. Page references that + were wrong by only one page were disregarded._ + + Avignon: St Didier [_spelled "Dedier" in body text_] + Bardonnecchia [_text has "Bardonnechia"_] + Estérels [_spelled "Estérel" in body text_] + Florence: S. Maria del Fiore [_text has "del Fiori"_] + Hyeres: Oiseaux Monts 138 [_text has 128_] + Menton: Annunciata [_spelled "Annonciade" in body text_] + --: Gorvio [_spelled "Gorbio" in body text_] + --: Castellon 199 [_text has 197_] + Rocher Blanc [_spelled "Roche-Blanche" in body text_] + San Remo: Poggio [_text has "Poggia"_] + St Michael [_spelled "Michel" in body text_] + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South of France--East Half, by +Charles Bertram Black + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE--EAST HALF *** + +***** This file should be named 24787-8.txt or 24787-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/7/8/24787/ + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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