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diff --git a/old/files/paris.html b/old/files/paris.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9e93cc --- /dev/null +++ b/old/files/paris.html @@ -0,0 +1,7458 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The South of France—East Half (Paris to Marseilles)</title> +<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + +<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css"> +</head> + +<body> + +<div class = "mynote"> +<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the +text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover +popups</ins>.</p> + +<p class = "center"> +<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a> +(<i>separate file</i>)<br> +<br> +Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_contents">Itineraries</a><br> +Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#part1_maps">Maps</a><br> +Paris to Marseilles: <a href = "#to_riviera">Text</a><br> +<br> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate +file</i>)<br> +<a href = "turin.html">Italy and the Alps</a> +and +<a href = "turin.html#index">General Index</a> (<i>separate +file</i>)</p> + +</div> + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part1_contents" id = "part1_contents">ITINERARY</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 1–106)</span></h4> + +<p> +<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles"><b>PARIS to MARSEILLES</b></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page1">1</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "inset"> +The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most +interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which +the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good +resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles +should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify +from this great central railway are</p> + +<p><a href = "#la_roche_to_les_laumes"><b>La Roche to Les Laumes</b></a> +by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a +coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast +church. +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page14">14</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +From Auxerre a coach runs to <a href = "#chablis">Chablis</a> +(p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through <a href = +"#pontigny">Pontigny</a> (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket +resided.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#verrey">Verrey</a> (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, +to visit the source of the Seine.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +From <a href = "#dijon"><b>Dijon</b></a> (p. 20) southwards to <a href = +"#chagny">Chagny</a> (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#chagny"><b>Chagny to Nevers</b></a> by Autun, Montchanin and +Creusot. <a href = "#autun">Autun</a> (p. 24) is one of the most +ancient cities in France. At <a href = "#le_creusot">Creusot</a> +(p. 25) are very large ironworks.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<b><a href = "#macon">Macon</a> to <a href = +"#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a></b> by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial +(p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several +interviews with J. C.</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#lyons"><b>Lyons</b></a> (p. 29), though a splendid city, +ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway +junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is <a href = +"turin.html#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains</a> (p. 283). 76 miles +S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is <a href = +"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (p. 324). Voiron is the station +for the <a href = "turin.html#grande_chartreuse">Grande Chartreuse</a> +(p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by <a href = +"turin.html#montbrison">Montbrison</a> (p. 349), is <a href = +"turin.html#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (p. 369). 89½ +miles S.W. by <a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> +(p. 346) is <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (p. 86). The rail +from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to <a href = +"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p. 58) and <a href = "#arles">Arles</a> +(p. 68); and on the W. side to <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a> +(p. 101). See <a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p><a href = "#valence_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to +Grenoble</span></a>, 62 miles N.E. +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page44">44</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#valence_coaches"><span class = "smallcaps">Valence to +Ardèche</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page45">45</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#crest_to_montelimart"><span class = "smallcaps">Crest to +Montelimart</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Crest to <a href = "#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a></b> by Saou and +Bourdeaux +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page46">46</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#saou">Saou</a> is an ancient village curiously situated. +<a href = "#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a> is separated from Dieulefit by a high +mountain.</p> + +<p><a href = "#crest_to_aspres"><b>Crest to Aspres</b></a>, 57 miles E. +by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme +(<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page47">47</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#montelimart">Montelimart</a> to +<a href = "#grignan">Grignan</a></span>, where Madame Sévigné died +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page49">49</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#la_croisiere">La Croisière</a> to <a href = +"#nyons">Nyons</a></b>, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons +is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From +Nyons another coach goes on to <a href = "#nyons_to_serres">Serres</a>, +41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble +(<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>).</p> + +<p><a href = "#sorgues"><b>Sorgues to Carpentras</b></a>, 10½ m. east +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page54">54</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +<a href = "#carpentras">Carpentras</a> makes excellent headquarters for +visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others +<a href = "#mont_ventoux">Mont Ventoux</a> (p. 56) and <a href = +"#vaison">Vaison</a> (p. 53).</p> + +<p><a href = "#avignon_to_nimes"><b>Avignon to Nîmes</b></a> by the +famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#avignon_to_vaucluse"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to +the Fontaine of Vaucluse</span></a>, where Petrarch lived for some time +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page64">64</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#avignon_to_manosque"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon to +Manosque</span></a> by Apt (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#cavaillon_to_miramas"><span class = "smallcaps">Avignon +to Miramas</span></a> by Cavaillon +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page66">66</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a> to +<a href = "#st_remy">St. Remy</a> and <a href = "#les_baux">Les +Baux</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page67">67</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#arles_to_fontvieille"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to +Fontvieille</span></a> by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman +remains +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page71">71</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_st_louis"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles +to Port St. Louis</span></a> at the mouth of the Rhône +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#arles_to_port_bouc"><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to +Port-Bouc</span></a>, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page76">76</a> and <a href = +"#page72">72</a></span></p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Arles to <a href = +"#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes</a></span> by <a href = "#st_gilles">St. +Gilles</a> and <a href = "#lunel">Lunel</a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page72">72</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lunel to <a href = +"#montpellier">Montpellier</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page73">73</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#rognac">Rognac</a> to the aqueduct of Roquefavour</b>, +which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page77">77</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Rognac to the baths of <a href = +"#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence</a>.</b> Aix has communication by +rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page78">78</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">LYONS to NÎMES</a> by the west side of +the Rhône</b> (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#peyraud"><span class = "smallcaps">Peyraud</span></a> by +rail to <a href = "#annonay">Annonay</a>, and thence by coach to +<a href = "turin.html#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> [pg. 354] +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page81">81</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a> to <a href = +"#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a></b>, the chief diligence centre in the +department of Ardèche (<a href = "#map46">map, p. 46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#loire_source_road">The road to the source of the +Loire</a> (<a href = "#map84">map, p. 85</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page83">83</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><span class = +"smallcaps">Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage</span></a> (<a href = +"#map84">map, p. 85</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page84">84</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_beage_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Béage to +Le Puy</span></a> by Le Monastier (<a href = "#map46">map, +p. 46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page85">85</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to +Langogne</span></a> by Pradelles (<a href = "#map46">map, +p. 46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page88">88</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_puy_to_langeac"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Puy to +Langeac</span></a> by St. Georges (<a href = "#map46">map, +p. 46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#darsac">Darsac</a> to <a href = +"#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a></span> (<a href = "#map46">map, p. +46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page89">89</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#chaise_dieu_to_vichy"><span class = +"smallcaps">Chaise-Dieu to Thiers</span></a> by Arlanc and Ambert (<a +href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page90">90</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#langeac">Langeac</a> to <a href += "#monistrol_to_saugues">Monistrol and to Saugues</a>.</span> Coach +from Monistrol station to <a href = "#le_puy">Le Puy</a> (<a href = +"#map46">map, p. 46</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page91">91</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_pouzin"><span class = "smallcaps">Le Pouzin to +Privas</span></a> (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page92">92</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#le_teil"><b>Teil to Alais</b></a>, 62 miles S.W. (<a href += "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page93">93</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the +interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><a href = "#aubenas_to_langogne"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to +Langogne</span></a> by Mayres and Pradelles (<a href = "#map27">map, +p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page94">94</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#prades_etc"><span class = "smallcaps">Prades to +Montpezat.</span></a> From Montpezat the <a href = +"#loire_source">source of the Loire</a> (p. 84) is visited +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page95">95</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#montpezat_to_le_puy"><span class = "smallcaps">Montpezat +to Le Puy</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#ruoms">Ruoms</a> to <a href = +"#vallon_to_pont_darc">Vallon</a></span> and the fine natural bridge +called the <a href = "#pont_darc">Pont d’Arc</a> (<a href = +"#map27">map, p. 27</a>), approached also from <a href = +"#pont_st_esprit">Pont-St. Esprit</a> (p. 98) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page96">96</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#pont_avignon"><span class = "smallcaps">Pont +d’Avignon</span></a>, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#remoulins"><span class = "smallcaps">Remoulins to the +Pont-du-Gard</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page99">99</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#nimes_to_millau"><span class = "smallcaps">Nîmes To +Millau</span></a> by Vigan (<a href = "#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page105">105</a></span> +</p> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part1_maps" id = "part1_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 1–106)</span></h4> + +<p> +<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p> + +<p><b>Ardèche</b>, general map of, including the northern part of the +department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map46">46</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the +Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, +Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.</p> + +<p><b>Arles</b>, a town of great interest +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map68">68</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Avignon</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map59">59</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Dijon</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map20">20</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Lyons</b>, General plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map30">30</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Lyons</b>, Partial plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map33">33</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Nîmes</b>, interesting Roman ruins +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map101">101</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Paris to Vichy, Macon</b>, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the +S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, +Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to +the N. +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map1">1</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Rhône and Savoy</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map27">107</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the +railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes +between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.</p> + +<p class = "mynote"> +Map appears on page 27 in this section.</p> + +<p><b>The high volcanic peaks</b> in the department of Ardèche; among +which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map84">84</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>The Mouths of the Rhône</b> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map66">66</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this +neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, +Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from +the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see +pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is +the commencement of the Craponne canal (<a href = +"#map66">p. 66</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance</b>, in which +are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, +Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map56">56</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Troyes</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map12">12</a></span> +</p> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + + +<!-- png 026 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &c.<br> +<a name = "map1" id = "map1" href = "images/map1.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map1thumb.png" width = "443" height = "327" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<div class = "itinerary"> + +<span class = "pagenum">1</span> +<a name = "page1" id = "page1"> </a> +<!-- png 027 --> +<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "to_riviera" id = "to_riviera"> +THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.</a></h4> + +<p class = "line"> </p> + +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_menton" id = +"paris_to_menton"> +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692 +miles.</a></h4> + +<p class = "line"> </p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles" id = +"paris_to_marseilles"> +PART I.—PARIS TO MARSEILLES.</a></h5> + +<h5><span class = "smallcaps">By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon</span>, +537 miles.</h5> + +<p class = "summary"> +Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London +to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of +the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their +London office.</p> + + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles to">537</span> +<a name = "paris" id = "paris"><b>PARIS.</b></a> Start from the station +of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where +purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely +trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of +the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the +H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules +César.</p> + +<p><i>Maps.</i>—For the general route, consult <a href = +"main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>; for the details as far as +Macon, <a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>; and for the remainder of the +journey, <a href = "#map27">map page 26</a>. The fare, third class, from +London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast +Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons +Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the +Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>, +and arriving next day at 5.33 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> +From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32 +<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>, and arrives at 10.13 <span class += "smallroman">A.M.</span> The third-class carriages between Paris and +<span class = "pagenum">2</span> +<a name = "page2" id = "page2"> </a> +<!-- png 028 --> +Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with +warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the +winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, +but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every +break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the +most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. +By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in +18¼ hours for £4:13:6.</p> + +<p>The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the +Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, +which here joins the Seine. <a name = "charenton" id = +"charenton"><b>Charenton</b></a>, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a +large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. <a name += "st_maurice" id = "st_maurice"><b>St. Maurice</b></a>, pop. 4300, has +in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for +animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, +museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of +grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the <a name = +"maisons_dalfort" id = "maisons_dalfort"><b>Maisons-Alfort</b></a>, pop. +8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some +time.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Villeneuve St. George. Melun.</span></p> + +<p>9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of <a name = +"villeneuve_george" id = "villeneuve_george"><b>Villeneuve St. +George</b></a>, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, +a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther +is <a name = "montgeron" id = "montgeron"><b>Montgeron</b></a> on the +Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor +of Henri IV. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +On the other side of the river is the village of <b>Crosne</b>; where on +the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas +Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the +first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his +contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English +literature.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +13¾ m. from Paris is <a name = "brunoy" id = "brunoy"><b>Brunoy</b></a>, +pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of +France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. +The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches +104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of +<a name = "melun" id = "melun"><b>MELUN</b></a>, pop. 12,000. +<i>Inns:</i> Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near +St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. +Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, +and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which +here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names +of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. +Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway +station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the +left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the +church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower +over each transept, 10th cent. The large building +<span class = "pagenum">3</span> +<a name = "page3" id = "page3"> </a> +<!-- png 029 --> +behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the +Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the +main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. +Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed +gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed +square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short +spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 +windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is +the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in +the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, +“Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16<sup>me</sup> +siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of +ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome +fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry +St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, +the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the +north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent +pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the +Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. +From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, +where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">37</span> +<span class = "miles to">500</span> +<a name = "fontainebleau" id = "fontainebleau"><b>FONTAINEBLEAU</b></a> +pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; +but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour +du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front +the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; +Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, +is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des +Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. +In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are +the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels +facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 +frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan +is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the +end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded +with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and +photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good +confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had +either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the +train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the +restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the +Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Coach Tariff.</i>—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the +Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the +forest in the shop opposite.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the +<span class = "pagenum">4</span> +<a name = "page4" id = "page4"> </a> +<!-- png 030 --> +day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 +frs. for the day.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following +prices:—</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for +the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour +3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an +hour.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Fontainebleau</b> deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but +to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which +cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads +and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by +congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each +bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. +The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of +the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval +Blanc,” which court forms the <i>main entrance</i>. A small fee is +expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not +obligatory.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite, +procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The +“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a +smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, +but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the +Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in +the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by +Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former +edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri +IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and +gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the +gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis +XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The <a name = "fontainebleau_entrance" id = +"fontainebleau_entrance"><b>principal entrance</b></a> is at the west +end by the Cour du <b>CHEVAL BLANC</b>, the largest of all the courts, +measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because +here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, +on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old +Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw +himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again +in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine +joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and +his wretchedness.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the +following abridged list should be read before entering.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has +46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in +the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place +entered is the <a name = "fontainebleau_chapelle" id = +"fontainebleau_chapelle"><b>Chapelle de la Trinité</b></a>, built by +Francis I. in 1529, and largely +<span class = "pagenum">5</span> +<a name = "page5" id = "page5"> </a> +<!-- png 031 --> +decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having +remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were +as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel. +The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and +here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by +Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and +Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by +Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the +altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The +magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, +are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Ascend staircase to the <a name = "fontainebleau_napoleon" id = +"fontainebleau_napoleon"><b>APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON</b></a>. The first +room is the Antichambre des <b>Huissiers</b> (ushers), painting by +Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des <b>Secretaires</b>, paintings by Vanloo, +Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers +by Spraendonck, to the most charming <b>Salle des Bains</b>. The walls +are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely +colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +<b>Abdication Room</b>, containing the famous mahogany table, about a +yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April +1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. <b>Cabinet de +Travail</b> (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. +Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. <b>Bedroom of +Napoleon</b> I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung +with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of +cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from +Pio VII. to Napoleon. <b>Salon de Famille</b> or Salle du Conseil; dates +from François I. and <b>Henri IV.</b>, and made by Louis XV. his +study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one +piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the +two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered +with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. +Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., +to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of +France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently +gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of +Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "fontainebleau_antoinette" id = +"fontainebleau_antoinette"><b>APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE</b></a> and +of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of +the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases +presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was +fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not +finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). <b>The Bedroom.</b> Occupied +successively by Marie de <ins class = "correction" +title = "spelling unchanged">Medicis</ins>, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, +Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The +gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie +Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. +<span class = "pagenum">6</span> +<a name = "page6" id = "page6"> </a> +<!-- png 032 --> +Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by +Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. <b>Salon de Musique.</b> Ceiling, Minerva +and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in +grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, +from which a door opens into the</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>GALERIE DE DIANE</b> or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, +divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing +mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the +sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on +the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second +daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room +immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in +parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on +his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, +and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers +thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown +of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the +ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all +this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his +might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, +near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the +chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s +chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The +Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to +spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in +the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she +replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been +condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this +coward.”</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with +indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the +goddess Diana.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by +C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, +1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not +shown (see page 8). The other leads into</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des +Gardes.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "fontainebleau_francois" id = "fontainebleau_francois"><b>LES +GRANDS APPARTEMENTS.</b></a> The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in +gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des +<b>Tapisseries</b> hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves +of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress +Eugenie. <b>Salon de François I.</b> Napoleon I. and Charles +X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. +The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of +chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets +are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable +Beauvais tapestry. <b>Salon de Louis XIII.</b> The small Venetian +looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came +to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de +<span class = "pagenum">7</span> +<a name = "page7" id = "page7"> </a> +<!-- png 033 --> +Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling +and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which +had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to +Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de <b>Saint +Louis</b>. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. +by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of +Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des <b>Gardes</b>, principally +by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above +the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the +allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with +figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of <b>Henri +IV.</b><ins class = "correction" title = ") missing">),</ins> with +figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and +Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful +chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust +of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by +Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, +corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>ESCALIER DU ROI.</b> The top part of this staircase, built by Louis +XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes, +representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo +dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>GALERIE DE HENRI II.</b>, or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent +hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted +on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other +by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by +François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite +Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt +coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by +Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, +elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly +gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The +chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by +Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the +chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return +now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I.</b>, parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, +210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a +communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. +Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The +frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a +few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. +From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES</b> et du Pape Pie VII. They were +inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis +XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also +by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of +Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by +Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were +expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest +<span class = "pagenum">8</span> +<a name = "page8" id = "page8"> </a> +<!-- png 034 --> +quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, +Mignard, and other French masters. <b>Antechamber.</b> Portrait of Diana +de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best +works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed +leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. <b>Salles des +Officers.</b> Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of +Esther. <b>Salon.</b> Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. +Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into +compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +<b>The Old Bedroom</b> (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis +XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very +beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. <b>Study</b> of Pio +VII.—portrait of him by David. Dressing-room—wardrobe of +inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. +by Lemoyne, 1751. <b>New Bedroom</b>—bedstead of time of Louis +XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. <b>Salon de +Reception</b>—Gobelins tapestry—furniture of time of Louis +XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. <b>Waiting-room</b> or Salle d’Attente. +Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. +<b>Antechamber.</b> 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. +Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>GALERIE DES FRESQUES</b> or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this +gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise +Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and +some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the +walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and +incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading +to the</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>SALLE DE SPECTACLE</b> or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and +seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of +Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin.</span></p> + +<h5>LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.</h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "fontainebleau_saturnin" id = +"fontainebleau_saturnin"><b>Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin</b></a>, +built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by +Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was +manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, +daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius +VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. +The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon +which he built the <b>Upper Chapel</b>. It was ornamented with charming +frescoes, in the reign of <b>Henri IV.</b>, about the year 1608. +Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à +Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same +dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the +right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the <b>Galerie de +Diane</b>, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently +executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see <a href = +"#page6">p. 6</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round +<span class = "pagenum">9</span> +<a name = "page9" id = "page9"> </a> +<!-- png 035 --> +with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by +J. B. Oudry.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, +saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than +that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the +revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. +The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St. +Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see <a href = +"#page7">p. 7</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection +of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.</p> + + +<h5><a name = "fontainebleau_courts" id = "fontainebleau_courts">THE +COURTS.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe +staircase, leads through to the <b>Cour de la Fontaine</b>. In the side +facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through +the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before +us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left +the <b>Porte Dorée</b>, one of the gates that opens into the <b>Cour +Ovale</b>. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes +on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects +are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And +by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven +from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass +the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, +faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is +the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance +to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected +with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri +IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery +college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is +grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "fontainebleau_drives" id = +"fontainebleau_drives"><b>Excursions into the forest.</b></a> Those +wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a +copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the +posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts +lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the +roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The +following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6 +hours:—</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie—Point de vue du camp de +Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle +Vue—Barbison par le Bas Bréau—Gorges d’Apremont et +Franchard.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle—Mont Ussy—Caverne +d’Augas—Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet—Gorges +et Rochers de la Solle—Rocher St. Germain—Bocages des +Ecouettes—Fort l’Empereur—Calvaire—Roche Eponge et +Point de vue de Nemorosa.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups +<span class = "pagenum">10</span> +<a name = "page10" id = "page10"> </a> +<!-- png 036 --> +et Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix +du Gd. Maitre.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole +forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from +Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second +contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, +such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but +especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The +Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very +picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, +take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After Fontainebleau is Thomery. <i>Inn</i>: Popardin, where the famous +grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and +trellis-work.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Moret. Jean Sans Peur.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">42</span> +<span class = "miles to">495</span> +<a name = "moret" id = "moret"><b>MORET</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inn</i>: +Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of +fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and +Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally +of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m. +farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the +Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.</p> + +<p><a name = "montereau" id = +"montereau"><b>Montereau-faut-Yonne</b></a>, pop. 7000; station about a +mile from the town. <i>Inn</i>: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, +near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this +junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town +and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully +ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the +right of the high altar is the sword of <a name = "moret_jean_sans" id = +"moret_jean_sans">Jean Sans Peur</a>. Beyond this church a fine stone +bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, +which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian +statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble +slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On +the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of +Surville. Montereau has important potteries.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sens. Thomas À Becket.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">71</span> +<span class = "miles to">466</span> +<a name = "sens" id = "sens"><b>SENS</b></a> on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. +<i>Inns</i>: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from +north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards +up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then +the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of +the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are +spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable +walks.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">11</span> +<a name = "page11" id = "page11"> </a> +<!-- png 037 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The <b>Cathedral of St. Etienne</b> was commenced in 972, but nearly +rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty, +is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry +attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with +massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed +arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered +colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured +canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful +relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop +of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the +mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and +statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, +<a name = "sens_becket" id = "sens_becket">Becket</a> used to officiate. +The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. +He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the +cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The +transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second +to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean +Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, +stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old +house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient +evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory +crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th +century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is +valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent +de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining +the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le +Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and +to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings +that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. +When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, +7 m. S. from St. Florentin, <a href = "#st_florentin">page 16</a>, +and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, <a href = "#auxerre">page 14</a>. +<b>Becket</b> was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict +in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. +Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees +from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was +celebrated in his honour.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Troyes.</span></p> + +<!-- png 039 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">12</span> +<a name = "map12" id = "map12" href = "images/map12.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map12thumb.png" width = "465" height = "369" +alt = "plan of Troyes"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is <a name = "troyes" +id = "troyes"><b>TROYES</b></a>, pop. 39,000. <i>Hotels</i>: At the +station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame, +the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel +des Couriers.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Troyes: Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, +canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the +machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which +produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling. +Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the +most important is the <a name = "troyes_cathedral" id = +"troyes_cathedral"><b>Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul</b></a>, +situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on +the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful +<span class = "pagenum">12</span> +<a name = "page12" id = "page12"> </a> +<!-- png 038 --> +in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the +end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these +intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th +century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three +hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising +above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the +transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave, +separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row +being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory, +both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the +roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the +windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the +western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble +statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of +the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th +cent. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Troyes: Henry V.<br> +Salle Simard.</span> +Before the high altar in this church <a name = "troyes_henry_v" id = +"troyes_henry_v">Henry V.</a> of England was affianced to the +Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th +May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown +of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the +poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in +the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the +oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar +leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the +13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of +the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In +the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, +St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few +yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the +<i>Library</i>, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., +in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled +panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. +Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +<b>Museum</b>, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, +Mignard, etc.; and the <a name = "simard" id = "simard"><i>Salle +Simard</i></a>, containing a valuable collection of the <b>Models made +by Simard</b> for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by +Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public +on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is +expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the +Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the +window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the +16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic +architecture, the church of <b>St. Urbain</b>, built by that Pope +towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place +where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was +that of a cobbler. A short way N. is <b>St. Remi</b>, 14th century, +with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. +Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>, +built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished +in +<span class = "pagenum">13</span> +<a name = "page13" id = "page13"> </a> +<!-- png 040 --> +1670. Beyond is <b>St. Jean</b>, 14th century. The high altar was +sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, +forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel +“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, +pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the +first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division +is <b>La Madeleine</b>, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable +for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in +1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. +The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic +architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from +St. Jean is <b>St. Nicolas</b>, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To +the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary +containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue +of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on +entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are +beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel +of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The +glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles +give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its +continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. +Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of +the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and +church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal, +constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by +Gentil.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we +have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for +two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Troy Weight.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The weight known by the name of the <a name = "troy_weight" id = +"troy_weight">Troy weight</a> was brought from Cairo during the time of +the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the +headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">79</span> +<span class = "miles to">458</span> +<a name = "villeneuve_yonne" id = "villeneuve_yonne"><span class = +"smallcaps">VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne</span></a>, pop. 5100. <i>Hotel</i>: +Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer” +spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (<a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page158">p. 158</a>). Villeneuve is joined to +its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or +84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. <i>Hotel</i>: +Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but +possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as +well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the +remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town, +and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to +the 13th cent.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">14</span> +<a name = "page14" id = "page14"> </a> +<!-- png 041 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">91</span> +<span class = "miles to">446</span> +<a name = "joigny" id = "joigny"><b>JOIGNY</b></a>, pop. 7000. A good +resting-place. <i>Hotels</i>: The Poste, between the station and the +bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne, +which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town +occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St. +André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St. +Thibault, 15th cent.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">96</span> +<span class = "miles to">441</span> +<a name = "la_roche" id = "la_roche"><b>LA ROCHE</b></a>, on the Canal +de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large +refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m. +southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, +and Semur. (See <a href = "#map1">map on p. 1</a>.)</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Auxerre.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_roche_to_les_laumes" id = +"la_roche_to_les_laumes"> +LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +12½ m. S. from La Roche is <a name = "auxerre" id = +"auxerre"><b>Auxerre</b></a>, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill +rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most +prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the +left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock +Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, <b>St. Etienne</b>, was +rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the +western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are +crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and +of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the +vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. +The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S. +transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. +Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the +13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. +Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the +17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, +173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and +finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th +cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the +capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around +the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is +a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and +Chablis. (For Pontigny, see <a href = "#pontigny">page 16</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +13 miles east from Auxerre is <a name = "chablis" id = +"chablis"><b>Chablis</b></a>, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein. +The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white +wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir, +Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the +vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty +flavour.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "cravant" id = "cravant"><b>Cravant</b></a>, pop. 1000, +<i>Inn</i>: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the +station, owing its importance to its position at +<span class = "pagenum">15</span> +<a name = "page15" id = "page15"> </a> +<!-- png 042 --> +the junction of the branch to <a name = "clamecy_2" id = +"clamecy_2">Clamecy</a>, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56 +miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles +from Paris by La Roche. (See <a href = "#map1">map, page 1</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sermizelles. Vezelay.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les +Laumes is <a name = "sermizelles" id = +"sermizelles"><b>Sermizelles</b></a>, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles +distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the +station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a +private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont +Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then +back to Sermizelles Station. See also <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#page354">p. 354</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vezelay" id = "vezelay"><b>Vezelay</b></a>, pop. 1300. +<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of +a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, +the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex +belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the +choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is +404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and +supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of +the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with +four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured +mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the +triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which +adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, +and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door +between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are +lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on +forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached +columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. +A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular +columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the +sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was +formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister +is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in +the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St. +Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The +Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications, +still remain. +<a name = "vez_becket" id = "vez_becket"> +<span class = "headnote float">Becket.</span></a> +Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; +when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he +pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and +others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been +informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in +1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under +Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the +birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the +Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of +the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from +St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">16</span> +<a name = "page16" id = "page16"> </a> +<!-- png 043 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is <a name = "avallon" id = +"avallon"><b>Avallon</b></a>, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. <i>Hotels:</i> +Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a +beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. +Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, +pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. +Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best +keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from +Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent +down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Semur.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and +then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is <a name = +"semur" id = "semur"><b>Semur</b></a>, pop. 4150. <i>Hotels:</i> Côte +d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile +from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by +Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and +repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The +windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are +portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a +beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each +transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and +about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. +12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at <a href = +"#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and +<a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Saint Florentin.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">107½</span> +<span class = "miles to">429½</span> +<a name = "st_florentin" id = "st_florentin"><b>SAINT FLORENTIN</b></a>, +pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H. de la Gare. In town, +H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach +starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of +Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road +separates from the Chablis road.</p> + +<p>Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. +The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The +windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces. +The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes +standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful +rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a +relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection +of Jesus Christ.</p> + +<p>At <a name = "pontigny" id = "pontigny"><b>Pontigny</b></a> there is +a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the +shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From +Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W., +stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of +Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and +round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and +imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. +<span class = "pagenum">17</span> +<a name = "page17" id = "page17"> </a> +<!-- png 044 --> +wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty +massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. +A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below +the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th +cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of +Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The +original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the +cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly +screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of +the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish +church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still +remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is +the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole. +Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and +others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery. +The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes +in the life of St. Edmund.</p> + +<p>Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and +remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from +Vezelay to Sens.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tonnerre.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">123</span> +<span class = "miles to">414</span> +<a name = "tonnerre" id = "tonnerre"><b>TONNERRE</b></a>, pop. 6000, on +the Armançon. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Courriers—both near each +other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past +the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the +church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the +foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular +basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a +dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight +street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built +in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in +1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a +beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308). +To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The +arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tanlay.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">127½</span> +<span class = "miles to">409½</span> +<a name = "tanlay" id = "tanlay"><b>TANLAY</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the +Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive +park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520, +but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559. +The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet +by 36. In a +<span class = "pagenum">18</span> +<a name = "page18" id = "page18"> </a> +<!-- png 045 --> +room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the +Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny. +A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods +of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the +political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is +portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round +the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating +with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces +is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the +abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent. +At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour +45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">136</span> +<span class = "miles to">401</span> +<a name = "ancy_le_franc" id = "ancy_le_franc"><b>ANCY-LE-FRANC</b></a>, +pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built +according to the plans of Primaticcio.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">142</span> +<span class = "miles to">395</span> +<a name = "nuits_sous_ravieres" id = +"nuits_sous_ravieres"><b>NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES</b></a>, pop. 700. +Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see <a href += "#troyes">page 11</a>), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to +Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the +environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort, +17th and 18th cents.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">151</span> +<span class = "miles to">386</span> +<a name = "montbard" id = "montbard"><b>MONTBARD</b></a>, pop. 3000, on +the Canal de Bourgogne. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de la Poste. <a name = +"buffon" id = "buffon">Buffon</a>, the celebrated naturalist, was born +in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château, +a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main +street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid +out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square +house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in +the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his +manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the +dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small +column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the +tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that +monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the +parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab +over the door bears the following inscription:—</p> + +<p class = "center"><span class = "smallcaps">Buffon</span><br> +A été inhumé dans le<br> +Caveau de cette chapelle<br> +Le 20 Avril 1788.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">19</span> +<a name = "page19" id = "page19"> </a> +<!-- png 046 --> + +<p>There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is +the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">160</span> +<span class = "miles to">377</span> +<a name = "les_laumes" id = "les_laumes"><b>LES LAUMES.</b></a> +<i>Inn:</i> H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois, +1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the +station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span> 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix, +whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above +the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious +sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles +from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84 +acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of +Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of +portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See +page 14.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">165</span> +<span class = "miles to">372</span> +<a name = "darcey" id = "darcey"><b>DARCEY</b></a>, pop. 850, 2 miles +from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high. +<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a +subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for +<a name = "flavigny" id = "flavigny"><b>Flavigny</b></a>, 1½ mile distant, +pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old +walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, +14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "seine_source" id = "seine_source"> +<span class = "headnote">Source of the Seine.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">171¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">365¾</span> +<a name = "verrey" id = "verrey"><b>VERREY</b></a>, pop. 900. +<i>Inns:</i> Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the <b>Source of +the Seine</b>, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods, +but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village +of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec, +pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse +Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow +the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone, +where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse +Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above +the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden +enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny +infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of +the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs. +It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by +the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop. +1000. <i>Inns:</i> Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church. +A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. +Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">20</span> +<a name = "page20" id = "page20"> </a> +<!-- png 047 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">179</span> +<span class = "miles to">358</span> +<a name = "blaizy_bas" id = "blaizy_bas"><b>BLAIZY-BAS</b></a>, situated +at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the +Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above +the sea.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">190</span> +<span class = "miles to">347</span> +<a name = "velars" id = "velars"><b>VELARS</b></a>, pop. 1400. After the +preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station, +Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The +viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet +long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the +branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see +page 24.)</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<!-- png 048 --> +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon" id = "dijon"> +Dijon</a></span> + +<h4 class = "extended">DIJON</h4> + +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 20</span> +<a name = "map20" id = "map20" href = "images/map20.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map20thumb.png" width = "436" height = "478" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<span class = "firstword">The</span> principal street is the Rue +Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the +Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard. +No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue +Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, +containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 +is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. +Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near +the station (No. 8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty +needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.</p> +</div> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">196</span> +<span class = "miles to">341</span> +<b>DIJON</b>, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. +<i>Hotels:</i> La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the +station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the +Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous +for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.</p> + +<p>Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding +hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. +Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, +82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent +road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See +page 19.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Dijon: Salle des Gardes. Museums.</span></p> + +<p>The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which +was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le +Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de +Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the +ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by +323 steps, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest +is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the +École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum +is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on +Sundays. Other days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the <a name = +"dijon_gardes" id = "dijon_gardes"><b>Salle des Gardes</b></a> are the +magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son +Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the +two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white +marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty +statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the +articles which belonged to them in this room are three +beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service; +and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and +the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died +1098. +<span class = "pagenum">21</span> +<a name = "page21" id = "page21"> </a> +<!-- png 049 --> +The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues +of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in +reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice +paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered +one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the +kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting +the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a +kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges. +Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the +British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral +staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches +in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or +serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring, +like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the +roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine +Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54 +of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double +arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_notre_dame" id = +"dijon_notre_dame"> +Dijon: Notre Dame.<br> +St. Benigne.</a></span> +Close to the Rue des Forges is <b>Notre Dame</b>, consecrated in 1331, +a very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian +architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance +style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des +Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville +is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of +Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is of massive carved +chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At +the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which +belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne, +founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the +corn-market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St. +Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing +at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards +the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains +of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a +wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091) +at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church, +2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. Towards the right is <a name += "dijon_benigne" id = "dijon_benigne"><b>St. Benigne</b></a>, easily +recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet +high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the +porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south +aisle is the +<span class = "pagenum">22</span> +<a name = "page22" id = "page22"> </a> +<!-- png 050 --> +slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful +mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery +chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is +St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed +spire. It is now used as an artillery store. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "dijon_st_jean" id = +"dijon_st_jean"> +Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet.<br> +Asile des Aliénés.</a></span> +From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean, +founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in +1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery +of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without +merit. +<a name = "dijon_bossuet" id = "dijon_bossuet">Bossuet</a> was baptised +in this church, and born in No. 10 of this “Place,” 27th September 1627. +Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest +is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of +our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St. +Anne, 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into +the <a name = "dijon_alienes" id = "dijon_alienes"><b>Asile des +Aliénés</b></a>, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi +in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are +the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied +by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the +beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next +taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, +consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one +of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the +ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the +least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house +contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, +but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and +Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its +charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number +of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau +d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. +Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. +The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue +Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards +long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel +to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or, +extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. +Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and +sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and +Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from +Meursault follow the +<span class = "pagenum">23</span> +<a name = "page23" id = "page23"> </a> +<!-- png 051 --> +Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten +years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gevrey-Chambertin.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">203</span> +<span class = "miles to">334</span> +<a name = "gevrey_chambertin" id = +"gevrey_chambertin"><b>GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN</b></a>, 1¼ mile from station, +pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are +the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in +the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">206¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">330¾</span> +<a name = "vougeot" id = "vougeot"><b>VOUGEOT</b></a>, on the Vouge, +pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. <i>Inn:</i> Groffier. Here there are +above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the +most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti, +Richebourg, and La Tache.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">209½</span> +<span class = "miles to">327½</span> +<a name = "nuits" id = "nuits"><b>NUITS</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inn:</i> +Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the +St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate +and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th +cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey +of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who +are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by +Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of +the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to +assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was +rebuilt in 1798.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Beaune.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">219</span> +<span class = "miles to">318</span> +<a name = "beaune" id = "beaune"><b>BEAUNE</b></a>, pop. 12,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is +the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as +Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class +vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay +vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine, +under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under +that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church, +Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and +equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals.</p> + +<p>In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to +Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in +1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic +School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the +15th cent.—a curious and interesting building. The Salle de +Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a +painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. +<span class = "pagenum">24</span> +<a name = "page24" id = "page24"> </a> +<!-- png 052 --> +Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the +neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St. +Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Meursault.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">223½</span> +<span class = "miles to">313½</span> +<a name = "meursault" id = "meursault"><b>MEURSAULT</b></a>, pop. 3000, +1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most +distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d’Or, +a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white wine of +a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the +delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">228</span> +<span class = "miles to">309</span> +<a name = "chagny" id = "chagny"><b>CHAGNY</b></a>, pop. 4200. +<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102 m. W., +passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. +W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see <a href = "#le_creusot">page +25</a>, and <a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>). From Chagny +southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around +Chagny produce a first-class quality.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Nolay, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards +in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles +distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a +deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of +the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a +remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal +mines.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Autun.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +26 m. W. from Chagny is <a name = "autun" id = "autun"><b>Autun</b></a>, +pop. 13,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town, +the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built +before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two +Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to +Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent +public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, +modernised into Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,” +considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount +Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, +fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been +discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and +8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with +four large gates, of which two—the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, +and the Porte St. André, lately restored—still remain. The Porte +d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind +the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient +church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +<b>Cathedral</b>, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178. +The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient +is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic +spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The +entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and +columns. From the Porte St. +<span class = "pagenum">25</span> +<a name = "page25" id = "page25"> </a> +<!-- png 053 --> +Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the +Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great +antiquity.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the +Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789 +Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montchanin. Le Creusot.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, +is <a name = "montchanin" id = "montchanin"><b>Montchanin</b></a>, pop. +2500. <i>Inn:</i> H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The +town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of +the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large +artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud, +the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the +Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from +Chagny, is <a name = "le_creusot" id = "le_creusot"><b>Le +Creusot</b></a>, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the +ironworks. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the +principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le +Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which +enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the +coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them +from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling +suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature +is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and +cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests, +policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is +a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the +workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is +imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner +of powerful machinery, there is no noise.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is <a name = "etang" id += "etang"><b>Etang</b></a>, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from +Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. <i>Inn:</i> H. Delaigue, +close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with +alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. from Nevers is +Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy by the rail, +skirting the Canal Nivernais. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Croix, close to +station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. <i>Inns:</i> +Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the +Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which +commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church +has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent., +containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and +coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">26</span> +<a name = "page26" id = "page26"> </a> +<!-- png 054 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chalon-sur-Saône.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">235</span> +<span class = "miles to">302</span> +<a name = "chalon_sur_saone" id = "chalon_sur_saone"><b><span class = +"smallcaps">CHALON-sur-saône</span></b></a>, pop. 21,000. <i>Hotels:</i> +at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois +Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on +an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, +both lined with good quays. The chief structures are—St. Vincent, +a Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying +the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty +steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two +stations—one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the +express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where +Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has +disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with +first-class vineyards. Rail to</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">243</span> +<span class = "miles to">294</span> +<a name = "varennes" id = "varennes"><b>VARENNES</b></a>. South from +this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">254</span> +<span class = "miles to">283</span> +<a name = "tournus" id = "tournus"><b>TOURNUS</b></a>, on the Saône, +pop. 6200. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the +Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de +Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868. +Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings +of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725. +The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of +which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th +cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was +founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de +Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines.</p> + +<!-- png 055 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 27</span> +<span class = "smallcaps">the RHONE & SAVOY<br> +with the passes from<br> +FRANCE INTO ITALY</span><br> +<a name = "map27" id = "map27" href = "images/map27.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map27thumb.png" width = "439" height = "327" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Macon.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">274</span> +<span class = "miles to">263</span> +<a name = "macon" id = "macon"><b>MACON</b></a>, pop. 20,000. At +station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg, +41 m. E. <i>Hotels.</i>—Near the station, H. Étrangers. In +town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the +steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons, +Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs +Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an +inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays +which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12 +arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of +the river. The oldest edifice is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Vincent, +built in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, +and the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the +Episcopal palace. In this neighbourhood, +<span class = "pagenum">27</span> +<a name = "page27" id = "page27"> </a> +<!-- png 056 --> +at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a +black marble slab over the door are the words:—Ici est né +Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790.</p> + +<p>In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, +the beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque +style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.</p> + +<p>From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to +Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line +extends to Geneva 74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and +Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See Black’s <i>France</i>, North Half, and +<a href = "#map1">map page 1</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cluny. Paray-le-Monial.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "cluny" id = "cluny"><b>Cluny</b></a>, pop. 5000. In the +valley of the Grosne. <i>Hotels:</i> Bourgogne; Pavilions—both +near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in +the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now +used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone +remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the +Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty +niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., +with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. +At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the +first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum; +entrance, ½-franc each.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is <a name = +"paray_le_monial" id = "paray_le_monial"><b>Paray-le-Monial</b></a>, +pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. <i>Inns:</i> The Poste, the best; across +the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the +Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the +Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de +Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built +in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to it, +occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish +church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent. +Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs, +llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal +tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From +the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached +columns.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marguerite" id = "marguerite"> +<span class = "headnote added">Marguerite.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up +to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and +established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the +monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their +chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854. +To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this +building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with +J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are +<span class = "pagenum">28</span> +<a name = "page28" id = "page28"> </a> +<!-- png 057 --> +painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so +hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of +them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3 +angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair +and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red +and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds +her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her. +To the left of entrance the pictures are—1st, a Vision; 2d, +Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of +Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The +picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when +J. C. is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and +sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for +ever.” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied +by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders +of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the +special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship +there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of +J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing +one of the above incidents.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the +habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a +coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with +rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. long. +On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at +other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of +one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d +July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent +of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on +the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had been +chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with +a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at +first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship +of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675, +when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit +establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she +said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour +commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by +Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N. D. de +Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray +there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône, +whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use <a href = +"#map27">map on page 26</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Romaneche. Belleville.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">283</span> +<span class = "miles to">254</span> +<a name = "romaneche" id = "romaneche"><b>ROMANECHE</b></a>, pop. 3000. +<i>Inn:</i> Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant +flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should be drunk in the +second year from the vintage.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">29</span> +<a name = "page29" id = "page29"> </a> +<!-- png 058 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">288½</span> +<span class = "miles to">248½</span> +<a name = "belleville" id = "belleville"><b>BELLEVILLE</b></a>, pop. +4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the next Belleville, +1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, the +H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small +round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in +those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small +circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the +Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to +Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious +houses. (Map, page 26.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">297</span> +<span class = "miles to">240</span> +<a name = "villefranche_saone" id = "villefranche_saone"><span class = +"smallcaps"><b>VILLEFRANCHE-sur-saône</b></span></a>, pop. 12,600, on +the river Morgan, near the Saône. <i>Hotels:</i> Provence; Europe. +Containing important linen manufactories, and vineyards producing a good +white wine. The parish church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in +the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the +town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the Saône. <i>Inns:</i> Terrasse; +France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in this town the <i>Journal de +Trévoux</i> in 1701, and the <i>Dictionnaire de Trévoux</i> in 1704.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">306</span> +<span class = "miles to">231</span> +<a name = "st_germain_mont_dor" id = "st_germain_mont_dor"><span class = +"smallcaps"><b>ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or</b></span></a>, junction with +line from Paris to Lyons, by Roanne and Tarare.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons.</span></p> + +<!-- png 060 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">30</span> +[West]<br> +<a name = "map30" id = "map30" href = "images/map30.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map30thumb.png" width = "422" height = "213" +alt = "plan of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a><br> +[East] +</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">318</span> +<span class = "miles to">219</span> +<a name = "lyons" id = "lyons"><b>LYONS</b></a>, pop. 343,000. The +Perrache railway station is 218 m. from Paris, 219 m. from +Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from Bourg, +104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne, +100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin.</p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_hotels" id = "lyons_hotels"><i>Hotels +(first-class).</i></a>—H. de l’Europe, admirably situated, +with one side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the +Place Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de +la République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon. +H. Bellecour in the Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the +R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also well situated. In the Place Perrache, below +the station, are the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du +Parc.</p> + +<p><i>Less expensive Hotels.</i>—The H. du Globe; and the +Havre et du Luxemburg—both near the Place Bellecour. Near the +Place des Terreaux in the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du +Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des Négociants, a large house +frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the Négociants, at No. 47 Rue +de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers, Place de +la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8 frs., in the +Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the +theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General Hospital, the +H. Bourne. A great +<span class = "pagenum">30</span> +<a name = "page30" id = "page30"> </a> +<!-- png 059 --> +many diligences start from this neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 +Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of +the cheapest. Among the best cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the +Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la +République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English +newspapers. In Lyons the term Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, +cordials, and brandies are sold.</p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_post" id = "lyons_post"><i>Post +Office.</i></a>—Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at +the south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade +of the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.</p> + +<p><i>Telegraph.</i>—Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. +Branch offices—Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 +Cours Morand.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Railway Stations. Cab Fares.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_stations" id = "lyons_stations"><i>Railway +Stations.</i></a>—The great and central station is the <b>Gare de +Perrache</b>, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and +the Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on +the railway to Bourg. The <b>Bourg or Satonay</b> railway station is at +the top of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner +of the Place des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the +hill by a rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per +100, and the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de +la Croix Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway +carriages. The rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a +convenient way of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The +Dombes or <b>St. Paul’s</b> railway station is for Montbrison, +40 m. S.W. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the +Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the +Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams.</p> + +<h6 class = "extended"><a name = "lyons_cabs" id = "lyons_cabs">CAB +FARES</a></h6> + +<table class = "grid"> +<tr class = "box"> +<td colspan = "2" rowspan = "2">KIND OF CAB.</td> +<td colspan = "3"> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +DE 7 H. DU MATIN<br> +a minuit.</span></td> +<td colspan = "2"> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +DE MINUIT<br> +a 7 H. du mat.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr class = "box"> +<!-- <td></td> --> +<!-- <td></td> --> +<td>LA course.</td> +<td>LA 1<sup>re</sup> heure.</td> +<td>LES H. suiv.</td> +<td>LA course.</td> +<td>l’heure.</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "topline sideline"> +<td colspan = "2">A 2 places (coupés)</td> +<td>1 25</td> +<td>1 50</td> +<td>1 25</td> +<td>1 65</td> +<td>2 50</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "2">A 4 places (berlines)</td> +<td>1 50</td> +<td>2</td> +<td>1 50</td> +<td>2</td> +<td>3</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "bottomline"> +<td class = "bracket">Voitures découvertes</td> +<td class = "rightline">à 2 places<br> +à 4 places</td> +<td class = "sideline">1 75<br> +2</td> +<td class = "sideline">2<br> +2 50</td> +<td class = "sideline">1 75<br> +2</td> +<td class = "sideline">2 15<br> +2 50</td> +<td class = "sideline">3<br> +3 50</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs +with 2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations +the omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">31</span> +<a name = "page31" id = "page31"> </a> +<!-- png 061 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Tramways. Theatres. Steamers.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_tramways" id = +"lyons_tramways"><i>Tramways.</i></a>—The fares are moderate, and +most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal +parts of the town is the large roomy car running between the Perrache +railway station and the Brotteaux railway station, passing through the +P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and +P. de la République between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre, +across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the +Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus the road by the +side of the fort “des Charpennes” leads in 5 minutes into the <a href = +"#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a> (see page 40), which having +visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 minutes, or by +the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of +the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most +important places to visit on the return journey are the <a href = +"#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a> (page 35), and the <a href = +"#lyons_silk_museum">silk museum in the Bourse</a> (page 38). Tram +between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare +outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out +at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, +pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.</p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_theatres" id = +"lyons_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>—The <b>Grand Théâtre</b>, +between the Hôtel de Ville and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, +6 frs. The <b>Théâtre des Célestins</b>, between the Rue St. +Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, 4 frs. +<b>Théâtre Bellecour</b>, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new +theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for +3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls +cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the +Théâtre des Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. +Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.</p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_steamers" id = "lyons_steamers"><i>Steamers on the +Saône</i></a> (Les Guèpes).—Sail between the Quai St. Antoine (to +the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In +summer 5 departures daily.</p> + +<p>Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place +Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on +the Quai de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the +Pont du Port another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling +likewise at numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, +and between them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.</p> + +<p>The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. +Claire on the <b>Rhône and Aix-les-Bains</b> on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and +<span class = "pagenum">32</span> +<a name = "page32" id = "page32"> </a> +<!-- png 062 --> +Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, +calling at the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing +and shipping of cargo.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Sights.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_sights" id = +"lyons_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see +below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place +Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, <a href = "#page31">page +31</a>. The <a href = "#lyons_park">Parc de la Tête d’Or</a>, page 40. +The galleries in the <a href = "#lyons_beaux_arts">Palais des Arts</a>, +page 35. The <a href = "#lyons_silk_museum">museum of silk +manufacture</a>, page 38.</p> + +<p>Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest +rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach +each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part +of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets, +the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the +R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful +squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place +Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In +the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, +which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the +municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour +(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with +trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot, +which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in +1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two +squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794, +during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts, +on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings +pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see +page 37).</p> + +<p>The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of +substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24 +miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux +Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind +the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short +sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, +page 31.</p> + +<!-- png 063 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 33</span> +<a name = "map33" id = "map33" href = "images/map33.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map33thumb.png" width = "337" height = "547" +alt = "larger map of Lyons" title = "LYONS"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway.</span></p> + +<p>The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of <a name = +"lyons_notre_dame" id = +"lyons_notre_dame"><b>Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière</b></a>, standing on the +site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; +whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be +visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything +else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained +from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of +<b>Tilsitt</b> across the Saône, at the upper side of +<span class = "pagenum">33</span> +<a name = "page33" id = "page33"> </a> +<!-- png 064 --> +the “Place,” is the <a name = "lyons_rope_railway" id = +"lyons_rope_railway">rope railway</a>, which ascends through tunnels the +hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the +way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by +the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a +large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to +the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has +accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman +palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this +hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, +lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the +pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets, +medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and +hotels.</p> + +<p>On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, +is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from +which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high. +This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb +view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are +immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont +Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church +below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less. +The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church, +which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884. +It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object +in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an +octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the +four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three +large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top +of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff +sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the +neighbourhood are convents. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Lyons: Observatoire Gay.<br> +St. Paul.</span> +A little eastward is the “<a name = "lyons_observatoire_gay" id = +"lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay</a>,” from which a steep path, +the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city, +reaching it by the side of the station of the <a href = +"#lyons_stations">Chemin de Fer des Dombes</a> (page 30). Near this +station is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_paul" id = +"lyons_st_paul"><b>St. Paul</b></a>, all modern excepting the beautiful +N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, +a few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the +original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the +early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the +stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. +Vincent.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">34</span> +<a name = "page34" id = "page34"> </a> +<!-- png 065 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: St. Irénée.</span></p> + +<p>The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 +Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short +distance of the church of <a name = "lyons_st_irenee" id = +"lyons_st_irenee"><b>St. Irénée</b></a>, on the summit of a hill in the +suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a +Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by +the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance +into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second, +which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the +first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St. +Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St. +Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre +St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y +furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in +1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of +animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, +restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the +saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first +flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the +original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were +thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus, +<span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 202. To visit the calvary and +crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing +particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of +the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It +was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. +At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Cathedral of St. Jean.</span></p> + +<p>Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the +Tilsit bridge, is the <a name = "lyons_cathedral" id = +"lyons_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th +cent., repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and +reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates +from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the +13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely +decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from +W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th +cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown +flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right +hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother +Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits, +and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of +the arches and the vault of the roof are richly +<span class = "pagenum">35</span> +<a name = "page35" id = "page35"> </a> +<!-- png 066 --> +decorated. In the N. transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas +Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. +Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek, who preached in this city <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, and sealed his doctrines with his blood. +Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., formerly the +bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.</p> + +<p>A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt) +occupied in the 13th cent. by the <b>Knight Templars</b>. Above the +cathedral is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of +the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade +of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the +court rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up—the Pont +de Nemours—leads directly to the church of <b>Saint Nizier</b>, +with the façade towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de +l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by +Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. +The rest of the building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a +broad triforium with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the +church. The vaulting shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In +the chapel of the south transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the +foot of the pier in this transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th +cent. At the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, +a modern edifice, with a beautiful portal of the 11th cent., all +that remains of the original church.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Palais des Beaux-Arts. Musée Lapidaire.</span></p> + +<p>On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the <a name = +"lyons_beaux_arts" id = "lyons_beaux_arts"><b>Palais des +Beaux-Arts</b></a>, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames +Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the +museums. Open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from +11 to 4, and to strangers daily.</p> + +<p>Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are +the ancient marbles or <a name = "lyons_lapidaire" id = +"lyons_lapidaire"><b>Musée Lapidaire</b></a>, one of the best in Europe. +The sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, +in many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these +records of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the +Augustan age upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of +that day were already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner +of the court on entering is the stair which leads up to the +Archæological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. +Up on the second floor is the collection of paintings by the “peintres +lyonnais.”</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">36</span> +<a name = "page36" id = "page36"> </a> +<!-- png 067 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Musée Archéologique.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "lyons_archeologique" id = +"lyons_archeologique"><b>Musée Archéologique</b></a> is well arranged +and carefully labelled. The only object we would indicate, as it is apt +to be overlooked, is the bronze table, <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 48, in the second room left hand, with +inscribed portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, +imploring the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a +Roman colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This +table was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. +Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, +were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time +prefect of Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs +in hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels, +armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets, +rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on +the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic +collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at +Lyons from 43 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> to 1857. Adjoining +and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, contained in six small +rooms, of which the first three contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, +the next two the Italian and Spanish schools, and the sixth the French +school. They are all carefully labelled. Among the pictures which +represent the Flemish school are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, +Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. +The Italian and Spanish schools are represented by Canaletto, Sasso +Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor +of the fourth room is a remarkably perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by +3, representing chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the +church of Ainay.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Galerie Chenavard.</span></p> + +<p>In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the <a name = +"lyons_gallery" id = "lyons_gallery"><b>Galerie Chenavard</b></a> on the +first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him illustrative of the +scenes which accompanied the introduction of Christianity into France. +They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason +supervening, they were not sent. On the floors are three beautiful +mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above are the best +pictures—J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel, +P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, +1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, +1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; +Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, +1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension +of Christ, considered the gem of the collection. +<span class = "pagenum">37</span> +<a name = "page37" id = "page37"> </a> +<!-- png 068 --> +This picture, originally in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was +presented by Pope Pio VII. “in attestato del suo affetto é della grata +sua rimembranza per la citta di Lione.” The lower part of the picture is +by far the best, the figures in the air are too massive, and the posture +of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud, +1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto, +1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur, +1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.</p> + +<p class = "mynote"> +* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743.</p> + +<p>The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the +<a name = "lyons_minerals" id = "lyons_minerals"><b>Mineralogical +Collection</b></a>, in which are represented the characteristic rocks +and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores from the +mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000 +engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the +arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every +evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Place Terreaux. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p> + +<p>On the north side of the <a name = "lyons_terreaux" id = +"lyons_terreaux"><b>Place des Terreaux</b></a> is the <a name = +"lyons_hotel_ville" id = "lyons_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>, +built in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by +domed square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is +1150 ft. long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. +From the centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over +the entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within +the vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the +brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood +originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.</p> + +<p>In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, +in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting +in the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it +became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the +executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish +this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Condition des Soies. Library. Bourse. Silk Museum.</span></p> + +<p>Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, +is the establishment of the <a name = "lyons_soies" id = +"lyons_soies"><b>Condition des Soies</b></a>, where the bales of silk +brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron +grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from +64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation. +The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first +story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St. +Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite +end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">38</span> +<a name = "page38" id = "page38"> </a> +<!-- png 069 --> + +<p>In the Rue de la République is the <a name = "lyons_bourse" id = +"lyons_bourse"><b>Bourse</b></a>, a profusely ornamented edifice +inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built in the +14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée with +the <a name = "lyons_library" id = "lyons_library">public library</a>, +containing the great terrestrial globe made at Lyons in 1701, indicating +the great African lakes, the rediscovery of which has been one of the +events of the present century. There are 160,000 volumes and 2500 +manuscripts,—about 600 of the printed works being incunabula, and +25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian period.</p> + +<p>In the second story of the Bourse is the <a name = +"lyons_silk_museum" id = "lyons_silk_museum">museum of the <b>Art and +Manufacture of silk</b></a>. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays +between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases, +specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to +centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far +the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first +and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly +artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely +designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the +hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting +posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also +the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms +from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains +part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom +made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to +produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely +changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same +loom. Near the loom is the first <a name = "lyons_sewing_machine" id = +"lyons_sewing_machine"><b>sewing machine</b></a>. The inventor was +B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are +improved copies.</p> + +<p>The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of +silk—displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, +as well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every +condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and +hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced. +Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.</p> + +<p>Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for +these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to +hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals, +have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure +is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, +<span class = "pagenum">39</span> +<a name = "page39" id = "page39"> </a> +<!-- png 070 --> +which makes a silk dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, +with an occasional alteration, it was worn for years.</p> + +<p>In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large +covered markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive +in tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway +travelling provision. (See <a href = "#page42">page 42</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: City Hospital and Workhouse.</span></p> + +<p>Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and +the other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the +<a name = "lyons_hospital" id = "lyons_hospital"><b>Hôtel Dieu</b></a>, or +general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by Childebert +and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally the work +of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, about +1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per day. The +rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards are +arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under the +small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from +their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men, +containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are +tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the +Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at +Oullins for incurables.</p> + +<p>In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs. +Temple, the Narcissa of his <i>Night Thoughts</i>, who died in 1730 at +Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a +built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it +is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.</p> + +<p>Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly +decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages, +of Sainte Valentine.</p> + +<p>Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, +on the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes +who have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be +mothers. The church was built in 1617.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: St. Martin d’Ainay.</span></p> + +<p>North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across +the Saône, is the church of <a name = "lyons_st_martin" id = +"lyons_st_martin"><b>St. Martin d’Ainay</b></a>, which, with the +monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, +on the site of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour +of Cæsar Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the +Saracens, in the 8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in +1106 by Pope Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired +and altered. The style belongs to what is called modern +<span class = "pagenum">40</span> +<a name = "page40" id = "page40"> </a> +<!-- png 071 --> +Greek, introduced into France under Charlemagne. The cupola of the +chancel rests on circular pendentive arches springing from four granite +columns which stood formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were +originally 2, but were cut into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal +chapels are by H. Flandrin, a native of <b>Lyons</b>. To the +right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint Blandina, in which a short +stair leads down to the crypt and the dungeons, one on each side, where +Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and Blandina, a converted slave, +were kept before being tortured and put to death in <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 177, during the persecution under Marcus +Antoninus, the implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. +square, was, as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on +account of the overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to +their present level.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lyons: Parc de la Tête-d’Or.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "lyons_park" id = "lyons_park"><b>Parc de la +Tête-d’Or</b></a>, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E. extremity +of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the left bank of +the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an abundant +supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden with +hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a +dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale. +Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the +Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of +objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history, +religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The +institution publishes essays and translations.</p> + +<p>By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large +barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.</p> + +<p>Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of +silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on +the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom +has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings, +are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can +work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more +<i>compagnons</i>, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La +Croix Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the +Saône. The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of +looms, who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a +finished state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is +estimated at £15,000,000.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "dyeing_silk" id = "dyeing_silk"> +<span class = "headnote">The Dyeing of Silk—Origin of +Lyons.</span></a></p> + +<p>The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. +Many experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and +<span class = "pagenum">41</span> +<a name = "page41" id = "page41"> </a> +<!-- png 072 --> +in particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its +colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he +received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour. +Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a +brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand. +Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a +permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk +were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The +worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed +in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of +persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is +now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of +gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries, +foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and +hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large +trade is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring +departments, and known as <i>marrons de Lyon</i>.</p> + +<p><a name = "lyons_origin" id = "lyons_origin">The earliest Gallic +occupants</a> of the territory at the confluence of the Rhône and the +Saône were the Segusians. In 590 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> +some Greek refugees from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained +permission of the natives to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, +called their new town by the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 <span class += "smallroman">B.C.</span> Munatius Plancus brought a Roman colony to +Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired importance, and +was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great roads. Augustus, +besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, gave it a senate and +made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies from the sixty cities +of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of Forum Vetus and the +municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the <i>jus senatus</i>. +The town, burnt by Nero in 59 <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span>, +was rebuilt by him in a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, +and Antoninus.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont-d’Or.</span></p> + +<p>Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions +from Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus +starting from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. +Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, 3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending. +Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on +a wide terrace commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is +poor and dirty, and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont +Ceindre walk from the omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend +by the telegraph posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent +<span class = "pagenum">42</span> +<a name = "page42" id = "page42"> </a> +<!-- png 073 --> +and descent can be done easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to +Lyons by the returning coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some +houses, an old hermitage, and a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. +The view is grand, embracing the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the +towns of Bugey and Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, +and the Alps. Mont Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 +ft.; and Mont Houx, 2008 ft., form together <a name = "lyons_mont_dor" +id = "lyons_mont_dor"><b>Mont-d’Or</b></a>, a group of mountains +covered with vineyards and meadows. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "lyons_cheese" id = +"lyons_cheese"> +Cheese.</a></span> +The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the best and most celebrated +in France. They are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches in diameter +and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. They are made from a +mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to derive their peculiar +flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats feed during a +considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore (likewise +famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small boxes. +The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by Roche-Cardon, +a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy excursion +is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) going up the +Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat going to St. +Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank, 1½ m. +above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of Cuire. +In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the bridge +passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, and the +tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail is the +best part of the excursion, not the island.</p> + +<p>For <a href = "#lyons_to_nimes">Lyons to Nîmes</a>, by rail 172 m. +south by the west bank of the Rhône, see p. 81; <a class = "turin" +href = "turin.html#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons</a> by +Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#paris_to_lyons_tarare">Paris to Lyons</a> by Tarare, +p. 348; <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#lyons_to_clermont">Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand</a> by St. +Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and <a href = +"#map27">map p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vienne.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">338</span> +<span class = "miles to">199</span> +<a name = "vienne" id = "vienne"><b>VIENNE</b></a>, pop. 27,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the capital of the first +kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of important edifices, which +indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in the days of Cicero were no +strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding the Augustan age. The most +interesting of these is the <b>Maison Carrée</b>, an oblong temple of +the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia, 55 ft. +high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way north from the +cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace fronting the chain +bridge is <b>St. Maurice</b>, a beautiful Gothic cathedral +commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the +<span class = "pagenum">43</span> +<a name = "page43" id = "page43"> </a> +<!-- png 074 --> +roof of the nave 88 ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the +altar the skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died +in 1723. At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other +end of the chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe +Valois. Up the Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, +near a stair leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, +where Pontius Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended +his life (it is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About +¼ m. down the Rhône from the railway station, by the Marseilles +road, is the Pyramide de l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It +is 52 feet high, and rises from four arches resting on a square +basement. Columns with cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, +which cannot date earlier than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial +town, with important woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is +Vaugris, pop. 250. On the other side of the Rhône is <a href = +"#ampuis">Ampuis</a> (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le +Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village +among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château +de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the +year was to commence with the first of January.</p> + +<p class = "headnote">> +<span class = "headnote">St. Rambert-d’Albon. Tain.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">356½</span> +<span class = "miles to">180½</span> +<a name = "st_rambert" id = "st_rambert"><b>ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON</b></a>, +junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by Rives 35 m., and +Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m. +W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to <a href = +"#annonay">Annonay</a> (see page 81, and map <a href = "#map27">pages +26</a> and <a href = "#map46">46</a>).</p> + +<p>5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. +<i>Inn:</i> Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the +town is the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of +the Galaure are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of +the Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see <a href = +"#map46">map, page 46</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">368</span> +<span class = "miles to">169</span> +<a name = "tain" id = "tain"><b>TAIN</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> +H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the Rhône, immediately +opposite <a href = "#tournon">Tournon</a> (page 82), and at the foot of +the hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety +has a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a +luxurious wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence +and Voiron (see <a href = "#map46">map page 46</a>), pop. 13,000. +<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with +the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with +Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.</span></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">44</span> +<a name = "page44" id = "page44"> </a> +<!-- png 075 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Valence.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">384</span> +<span class = "miles to">153</span> +<a name = "valence" id = "valence"><b>VALENCE</b></a>, pop. 24,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first the most expensive. +Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge +across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. west. Coaches daily +to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an eminence rising from the +Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the site of the old +fortifications. The most handsome is the Place Championnet, on the site +of the citadel, commenced by François. It commands an excellent view of +the river and of the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on an +arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “au +General Championnet, sorti des rangs du peuple. Hommage public de sa +ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.</p> + +<p>To the left of the statue is the cathedral <b>St. Apollinaire</b>, +built in 1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower +were rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable +appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves. +A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the +round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by +restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached +Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of +the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone. +From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being +occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust +by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His +remains were removed to Rome.</p> + +<p>Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral +chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in +1548. On each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably +flat dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, +built in 1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under +canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading +into the court are in a much better state of preservation. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their +transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent., +and a picture gallery.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vernoux. Coaches from Valence.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "valence_to_grenoble" id = "valence_to_grenoble">Rail to +Grenoble</a>, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus +daily to <a href = "#st_peray">St. Péray</a> (p. 82). Coach by St. +Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. <a name = "vernoux" id = +"vernoux"><b>Vernoux</b></a> 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. +<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in +Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and +valleys. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">45</span> +<a name = "page45" id = "page45"> </a> +<!-- png 076 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "valence_coaches" id = "valence_coaches"><b>Valence</b></a> is +one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences +from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St. +Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a> +(see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, +Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at +St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two +diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At +Ollières, H. du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence +from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire +to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. +Valence is 5 hrs. from St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. +St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see +also <a href = "#page93">pages 93 and 94</a>). Coach from Valence to La +Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a +mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the +sun.</p> + + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">ARDECHE<br> +its vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes.</span></p> + +<!-- png 078 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 46</span> +<i>For continuation northwards see map, page 167.</i><br> +<a name = "map46" id = "map46" href = "images/map46.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map46thumb.png" width = "461" height = "233" +alt = "map of Ardêche"></a><br> +<i>For map of the Mountains of Ardeche see <a href = "#map84">page +84</a>.<br> +For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ardeche" id = "ardeche"> +ARDÈCHE.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip center"> +(See <a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September. +In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best +houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of +fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread +often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is potatoes +sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a pleasant soup +of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are required for the +accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which each hamlet has at +least 2, while the larger villages and towns have from 4 to 8, besides +market-days. One of the prettiest sights in Ardèche is to see the people +flocking from every direction along the winding mountain roads to the +village where the fair is being held—many on foot driving small +parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of +eggs, cheese, and butter, and often an old hen; others with carts loaded +with potatoes; others travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and +others on horseback, the women as well as the men being astride.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight forbidding, +but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of things improves +rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural products are potatoes +and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and +cherry trees, cultivated on terraces supported by low stone walls of +rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in the lowest zone, on the sunny side +of the mountains. The cattle are of a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured +and light brown, with large bones and white horns generally tipped with +black.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and grown-up +women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above 8s., and +many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman shears it off +in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only +<span class = "pagenum">46</span> +<a name = "page46" id = "page46"> </a> +<!-- png 077 --> +a little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank, +and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take +the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females +during their long winters is lace-making.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont +Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The most +central station of the diligences is <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le +Cheilard</a> (see page 83).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts +of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and +23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Livron. Crest.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">395</span> +<span class = "miles to">142</span> +<a name = "livron" id = "livron"><b>LIVRON</b></a>, pop. 4500, on the +Drôme, at some distance from the station. Restaurants at station. Inns +in the town. On the other side of the Rhône, connected by railway +bridge, is <a href = "#la_voulte">La Voulte</a>, 1¼ m. W. (see +p. 82). +<span class = "sidetrip"> +A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from Livron, +68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and Marseilles. +As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the picturesque and +well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is a large Protestant +population, nearly every village having its Temple Protestant (see maps, +<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and <a href += "#map56">56</a>).</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +11 miles E. from Livron by rail is <a name = "crest" id = +"crest"><b>Crest</b></a>, pop. 6000. <i>Hotels:</i> Bonsans-Reboul, the +best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, by the side of the +river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The omnibuses of the two +hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly on the Drôme and +partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the foot, in the +market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. Straight up +from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of 116 steps, is +the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde, attached to +the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the hospital +and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the enclosure, on which +stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly the remains of a castle +which was added to it in the 13th cent. The highest side is 170 ft. +above the ground, and the other three 148 ft., ascended by 260 steps. +Although so high, the view is limited by the high side, into which +visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives below in the town, near +the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the first narrow street, left +from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which continue to a stone +lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend by the path, right, to the +Calvary, where there is a splendid view of the valley of the Drôme.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coaches daily from <a name = "crest_to_montelimart" id = +"crest_to_montelimart">Crest to Montelimart</a>, 22½ m. S.W. (see +Index); also to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the +copious source of the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. +3 miles from Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach +also to Bourdeaux, 16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest +(see <a href = "#map56">map, p. 56</a>). +<span class = "headnote float"> +Saou.</span> +<a name = "saou" id = "saou"><b>Saou</b></a>, pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, +is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. <i>Inn:</i> H. Lattard. Mixed +up with and built into the surrounding squalid houses are the remains of +the abbey church and +<span class = "pagenum">47</span> +<a name = "page47" id = "page47"> </a> +<!-- png 079 --> +buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are +the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are +within the court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th +and 13th cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of +the narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains, +from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata +piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic forms. +It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the +commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream, is +the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the other +side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. Mt. +Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called the +Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square house, +with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best parts of +the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its termination, where +the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of 5324 ft. above the +sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At the foot of Mt. +Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley becomes so narrow +that there is scarcely sufficient room for the stream to pass through. +2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, a little beyond, +the terminus of the valley.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourdeaux. Dieulefit.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. <a name = "bourdeaux" id = +"bourdeaux"><b>Bourdeaux</b></a>, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> Blanc; Petit; +Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N. from +Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, composed of +squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping up the hill, +crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the 8th cent. +Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief industries. +Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the courrier +requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain ridge, the +Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "dieulefit" id = "dieulefit"><b>Dieulefit</b></a>, pop. 5000. +<i>Inns:</i> H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the Jabron at the +foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart, between +which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are silk, cotton, +and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a coarse kitchen +ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to Montelimart are +Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under +Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a +considerable distance from the road (see <a href = "#map56">map, page +56</a>).</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Die.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "crest_to_aspres" id = "crest_to_aspres"> +CREST TO ASPRES</a></h5> + +<p class = "center">(Maps, pp. 46 and 56).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die.</i>—The road as far as +the Pass de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town +passed is Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> +Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is +Pontaix, similarly situated. 23 m. <ins class = "correction" title += "text reads ‘L.’">E.</ins> from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, +is <a name = "die" id = "die"><b>Die</b></a>, pop. 4000, the principal +town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the Mérosse. +<i>Inns:</i> St. Dominique; Alpes—the coach stops between them; +Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank +during its first year; +<span class = "pagenum">48</span> +<a name = "page48" id = "page48"> </a> +<!-- png 080 --> +in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach to Châtillon, 12 m. +S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain surrounded by mountains, of +which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, 6648 ft. above the sea, +flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top is an undulating plateau, +covered with <i>small</i> stones and grass; 5 hrs. required for the +ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the rustic but not uncomfortable +establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; pension per day, with baths, +9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses.” The bath +resembles a large oven, in which, after having been heated with resinous +fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish bath. Open from 15th June to +15th September. The landlord is likewise proprietor of a large part of +Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his supplies of fir-wood. On the top of +a hill on the other side of the Drôme is a similar establishment, called +the Martouret, pension 12 frs. The way to it strikes off the main road +opposite the eminence, on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding +a very good view of the valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at +one of the old gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which +makes the tour of the ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry +trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better +gateway or Roman triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The +parish church has been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Luc. Aspres.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which +changes horses at <a name = "luc_en_diois" id = "luc_en_diois"><b>LUC en +Diois</b></a>, pop. 940. <i>Inn:</i> Du Levant; Église Protestante, +10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town, +among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high +mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost +closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from +the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of +Beaurières (<i>Inn</i>, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is +now commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres, +15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from +Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall 195 +ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre +d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to +the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing +mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best when +2 years old. <a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>Aspres</b></a>, pop. +800, is situated on the railway, 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and +77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach sets down passengers either at +the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand. The church has been +rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the tympanum a curious +representation of the Trinity.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montélimart.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">412</span> +<span class = "miles to">125</span> +<a name = "montelimart" id = "montelimart"><b>MONTÉLIMART</b></a>, pop. +12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion and Jabron with the +Rhône. <i>Hotels:</i> near the station, the France; in the town the +Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for <a href = +"#le_teil">Le Teil</a>, on the W. side of the Rhône; for <a href = +"#grignan">Grignan</a>, p. 49; <a href = +"#dieulefit">Dieulefit</a>, p. 47; <a href = +"#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux</a>, p. 47; and <a href = +"#nyons">Nyons</a>, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and Princes. Up +the Grande Rue is the principal +<span class = "pagenum">49</span> +<a name = "page49" id = "page49"> </a> +<!-- png 081 --> +church. On the opposite side of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post +Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the +first flight of steps in the Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long +and 2 ft. wide, bearing in Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. +At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the +Temple Protestant. Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, +“Nougat,” of which the best is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an +eminence on the side of the town farthest from the station are the +ancient citadel and the tour de Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, +originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement under the +name of Montilium, which was changed afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar +by a powerful family, who came into possession of it in the days of +Charlemagne. To the same family belonged also <a href = +"#rochemaure">Rochemaure</a>, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see +page 92, and <a href = "#map56">map page 56</a>).</p> + +<p>Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, +2½ m. S.E. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by +Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer. +(See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.)</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of <a name = "alan" id = +"alan"><b>Alan</b></a>, half-way between Montelimart and Grignan, “there +existed down to 1802 the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It +was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one +of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, +in 1494.” The mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of +France than the olive (see <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Grignan. Marquise de Sévigné.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "grignan" id = "grignan"><b>Grignan</b></a>, pop. 1900; +<i>Inn:</i> Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill on the top of +which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and ugly half-ruined +and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. The former Salle du +Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, containing upwards of 300 +paintings, among which the most interesting are—the portraits of +Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About half-way up the hill is the +church, commenced in the 12th cent. <a name = "sevigne" id = +"sevigne">In front of the altar</a> a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by +1½ wide, bears the following inscription:— “Cy Git Marie de +Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above +the well, in the “Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew +curls. About ½ m. from the town is what was one of her favourite +walks to an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de +Roche-Courbière. To visit it, descend from the inn, then take the first +byeroad right, by a row of poplars to a short stair. A coach runs +from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan. +<a name = "valreas" id = "valreas"><b>Valréas</b></a> (pronounce the “s”), +8¼ m. from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; <i>Inn:</i> +H. du Nord, is partly surrounded with its old walls, garnished with +square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. +<span class = "pagenum">50</span> +<a name = "page50" id = "page50"> </a> +<!-- png 082 --> +from Nyons by Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, <i>Inn:</i> H. du +Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partly surrounded with its old walls.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">420</span> +<span class = "miles to">117</span> +<a name = "donzere" id = "donzere"><b>DONZERE</b></a>. H. du +Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four and a half miles +south is <b>Pierrelatte</b> station, and the terminus of the unfinished +railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time 45 +minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an interesting +cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics have been found +in the neighbourhood.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Croisiere.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">432</span> +<span class = "miles to">105</span> +<a name = "la_croisiere" id = "la_croisiere"><b>LA CROISIERE.</b></a> +Two small inns at station. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe, +3½ m. W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. +Fare, 40 c. The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in +1265 and finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at +the W. end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for +the convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For <a href = +"#pont_st_esprit">Pont Saint-Esprit</a>, see page 98).</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the +valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. +<i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures +of fire-bricks and clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. +2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; +<i>Inn:</i> Vigne. Horses changed here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, +pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres a +cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons the +coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H. du Louvre; whence the +diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see <a href = +"#map56">map, page 56</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nyons.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "nyons" id = "nyons"><b>NYONS</b></a>, on the Aigues, pop. +4000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre, in the Place; Voyageurs, in a corner. +Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high +mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and therefore eminently +fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The orange and palm do not +grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear +trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine truffles. Silk mills and +the preserving of fruit and truffles supply the principal industries. +The old town, called Les Forts, is built on an eminence partly +surrounded with its old walls garnished with square towers, 14th cent. +The vieux château, or centre tower, has been converted by the curate +into a chapel surmounted with an image of the “immaculately conceived.” +The part of the town below is called Les Halles, whose dirty streets are +bordered with thick heavy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the +Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch +and considerably higher in the centre than at the ends.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +The Pontias Breeze.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is +the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that +the night-breeze called the <a name = "pontias" id = +"pontias">Pontias</a> issues. In winter this wind is very +<span class = "pagenum">51</span> +<a name = "page51" id = "page51"> </a> +<!-- png 083 --> +cold, and blows from 5 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 9 <span +class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> In summer it is pleasant, and blows +from 9 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> to 7 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> The peculiarity is, that the degree of force is +constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, commence +from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the Rue +Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last tower +a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a small +chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a pavilion. +Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the part of the +ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the back of the +ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by this latter way +retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path for 116 yards; +while those who have come by the other go 116 yards beyond the chapel. +Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be observed the thin +ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is the entrance to the +Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of insignificant dimension. +Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are several crevices. The view +of the valley of the Aigues from this hill is very beautiful. The ascent +takes 35 minutes.</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nyons_to_serres" id = "nyons_to_serres"> +NYONS TO SERRES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Nyons to Serres</b> (see <a href = "#map56">map, p. 56</a>), 41 miles +east by the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by +high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns +passed are at a considerable height above the road, and sometimes on +account of the steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first +village passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons, +and 3½ m. from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from +Nyons. A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of +the river, here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill +on the S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the +mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road +crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St. +May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on +the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty +precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the +village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its +junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of +the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. +from Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or +15½ m. from Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col +of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the +Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. +<i>Inns:</i> Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from +Marseilles and 77½ S. from <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#grenoble">Grenoble</a> (see p. 340).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Orange.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">444</span> +<span class = "miles to">93</span> +<a name = "orange" id = "orange"><b>ORANGE</b></a>, pop. 10,300. +<i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the +Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to the hotel is +the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour of Tiberius +for his victory over Sacrovir and +<span class = "pagenum">52</span> +<a name = "page52" id = "page52"> </a> +<!-- png 084 --> +Floras, <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 21. It stands E. and W., +is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep, and +consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. and +each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented with +six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved +Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the +shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, +etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a +combat.</p> + +<p>At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre +at the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +<b>Cathedral</b> of Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in +style the churches of the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of +Perpignan is the great type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels +between the buttresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory +windows. A plain and ugly square tower, in this case, at the east +end. Adjoining is the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to +“Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem +en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the town, the Cours St. Martin, is a +statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture, and a +native of Orange; where also he died in 1862. At the foot of the hill, +overlooking the town, are the grand and imposing ruins of one of the +most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in a semicircular form, has a +façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The wall is 13 ft. thick, composed +of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular wall consists of five stages, +and included accommodation for 6500 spectators. The building has +recently been repaired and cleared of a quantity of rubbish.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "prince_orange" id = "prince_orange"> +<span class = "headnote">Prince Of Orange and Orangemen.</span></a></p> + +<p>In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably +under Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just +been noticed. On the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third +line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René +(Renatus) of Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his +successor his cousin William I., stadtholder of the United +Netherlands. The title “Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the +stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I., +William II., and William III. After the Revolution in Ireland +of 1688, the English-Protestant party were designated Orangemen, from +the title of their leader, William III., Prince of Orange. Louis +XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace +of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there were two +claimants—John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by +William’s will, and Frederick I, King of +<span class = "pagenum">53</span> +<a name = "page53" id = "page53"> </a> +<!-- png 085 --> +Prussia, who claimed to be nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by +the will of Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the +principality a forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to +the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last +prince should have the <i>dominium utile</i>; and its finding was +confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the +title and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still styled +Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). John William Friso, however, also +took the title, and his successors the stadtholders and kings of the +Netherlands have all been designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast +numbers of silkworms are reared at Orange. Coach daily to <a href = +"#valreas">Valréas</a> 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison +17½ m. N.E. (Map <a href = "#page56">p. 56</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vaison. St. Quenin.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vaison" id = "vaison"><b>Vaison</b></a>, pop. 3400. +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene, +17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m. +W. from Le Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is +on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are +connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the +left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with +its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned +with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, +in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a +small square tower at one of the angles. A little below is the +parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at +S.E. end. The view from the terrace is beautiful.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and +very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town, +where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle. +Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman +theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is <a name = "st_quenin" id = +"st_quenin"><b>St. Quenin</b></a>, while a little beyond is the +cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as they call it, is built +on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange, +but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five +tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest +stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow +road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from +the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or +apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an +attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the +angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The +neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is +evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Of the <b>Cathedral</b> the best part is also the outside. Under the +eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of +medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are +pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes. +<span class = "pagenum">54</span> +<a name = "page54" id = "page54"> </a> +<!-- png 086 --> +The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed +arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered +pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also +pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent.; but +the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on +colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N.E. side, +rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful +cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St. +Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13 +arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At the corners is either a +massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman +antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The +most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill +opposite the castle stands an image of the “Immaculée” on the capital +and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map <a href = +"#page56">p. 56</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sorgues. Carpentras.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">455</span> +<span class = "miles to">82</span> +<a name = "sorgues" id = "sorgues"><b>SORGUES</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the +Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction with line to Carpentras, +10½ m. eastwards. <a name = "carpentras" id = +"carpentras"><b>Carpentras</b></a>, pop. 10,500, on an eminence +surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. <i>Hotels:</i> Universe; +Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the Hôtel-Dieu, +built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a portrait by +Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the centre of +the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie d’Inguimbert. +From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public building is +the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of +the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of +Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a +pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside. +Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a +“Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the +pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk +to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is +the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull +and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of +J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of Mary +painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another “Coronation” +by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein. +Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix +in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal +arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. high (but +originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. span. On the +N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief, +a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a +prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From +the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is +a similar cross, but not in +<span class = "pagenum">55</span> +<a name = "page55" id = "page55"> </a> +<!-- png 087 --> +such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem +of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte +d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only three +sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded the +town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the +boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal aqueduct, +to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the +two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N.W. to S.E., +with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras +crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The canal, which +by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the +Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost £90,000. In +the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved +fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum. +The library contains a valuable collection of manuscripts, explained in +a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols., for +which there is not sufficient accommodation. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "carpentras_museum" id = +"carpentras_museum"> +Carpentras: Museum.</a></span> +In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze +and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at +Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone +slab, 4th or 3d cent. <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, 19¼ in. +long by 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow +borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with uplifted +hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are +sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment, +is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed +Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary +funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic +inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first +French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "truffles" id = "truffles"> +Truffles.</a></span> +Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or +white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has the +smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse, +they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below the +ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and +of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to +the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and +decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black, +hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and +shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may +weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are sought by means of +dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more +dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards +of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a +masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the +truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the +truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two +<span class = "pagenum">56</span> +<a name = "page56" id = "page56"> </a> +<!-- png 088 --> +acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the +search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Ortolans.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The <a name = "ortolans" id = "ortolans"><b>ortolans</b></a>, which +breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While +on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans +singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are +fattened. In about a month’s time they become so plump as hardly to be +able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for +alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred +from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and +wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,” +a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike +barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is +Eysseric.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from +the Riviera—the hotels are comfortable and the prices +moderate—excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the +vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras +6½ m., and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by +Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to +Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E., passing through Malaucene. Coach +from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to +Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28½ m. E.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to +L’Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse. +Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by +Venasque 7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and <a href = +"#map56">maps pages 56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">THE PLAINS<br> +between the ARDECHE,<br> +the RHONE and the DURANCE.</span></p> + +<!-- png 089 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 56</span> +[West End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map46">map, +page 46</a>.</i><br> +[East End] <i>For continuation northwards see <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br> +<a name = "map56" id = "map56" href = "images/map56.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map56thumb.png" width = "462" height = "235" +alt = "the plains"></a><br> +<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#map326">map, page 327</a>.</i><br> +[West End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a href = "#map66">map, +page 66</a>.</i><br> +[East End] <i>For continuation southwards see <a class = "riviera" href += "riviera.html#map163">map, page 163</a>.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bedoin. Mont Ventoux.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coach daily to <a name = "bedoin" id = "bedoin"><b>Bedoin</b></a> 8¾ m. +N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Mont +Ventoux. Station to ascend <a name = "mont_ventoux" id = +"mont_ventoux"><b>Mont Ventoux</b></a>, 6274 ft., by a good road from +the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 m. from the village +and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope. Time to ascend, from +5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. Before commencing the +ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a +general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those +mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little distance along it, at +a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off to the left and +ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a +splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top, +travellers generally start at 11 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, +and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. +Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure +range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in +every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper +and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre +de Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, +a village 2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this +<span class = "pagenum">57</span> +<a name = "page57" id = "page57"> </a> +<!-- png 090 --> +neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of +sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "resin_baths" id = "resin_baths"> +<span class = "headnote">Resin Baths. Malaucene.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of +<a name = "st_didier" id = "st_didier"><b>St. Didier</b></a>, with a good +hydropathic establishment in an old château. Rooms from 1½ fr. to +3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both +with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, breakfast and +dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr. First +consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but +in the guests’ room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the style of +the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated +with resin or is turpentinised (<i>térébenthiné</i>). It has a +beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2¾ +m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (<a href = +"#map56">map p. 56</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. +N.E., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing +the N.W. extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le +Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the +foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from +Buis, is <a name = "malaucene" id = "malaucene"><b>Malaucene</b></a>, +1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel de Cours, in a +picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the +calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is +the spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous +cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. The +stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in +motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit +the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene. +The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than +from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are +the springs—Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and +Font Filiole, 5866 ft.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the +Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with, +in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake. +Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze +statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. No +public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the +length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St. +Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m. +E., Lacombe 13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the +road descends to the railway by the valley of the Céans.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Buis.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip space"> +<a name = "le_buis" id = "le_buis"><b>LE BUIS</b></a>, pop. 2000; +<i>Inns:</i> Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouvèze +surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and +cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata cover some parts; at others +there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or +in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go +to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having +crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right +hand, which continue to the next +<span class = "pagenum">58</span> +<a name = "page58" id = "page58"> </a> +<!-- png 091 --> +bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right: +for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the +left, just before reaching the bridge.</p> + + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon" id = "avignon"> +<span class = "headnote added">Avignon.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">59</span> +<a name = "page59" id = "page59"> </a> + +<!-- png 092 --> +<a name = "map59" id = "map59" href = "images/map59.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map59thumb.png" width = "419" height = "324" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "center smallroman">SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<b>1.</b> Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the +Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of +Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the +hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the +Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the promenade is, +<b>2</b>, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a seminary. Below +the Pope’s Palace is <b>B</b>, the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, with the +H. de Ville and theatre. The street <b>C C</b>, extending southward +to the principal station, is called the R. de la Republique or Rue +Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, <b>3</b>, the Hotel de +Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S.W. is the Rue +Calade, with, at <b>4</b>, the Musée Calvet, and at +<b>5</b>, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien, +a museum of natural history. Farther east is, <b>6</b>, St. +Joseph’s College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers, +where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the +town, <b>7</b>, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, <b>O</b>, +beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while <b>8</b> indicates the +road to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de +Ville is, <b>9</b>, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far +from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the +Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the Place du +Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel +Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur. +17. Prison. 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. +20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture. 22. Suspension Bridge. +23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais. B, Place de +l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue Calade. +F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie. +J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. +M, Porte du Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. +Lazarus. Q, Porte L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. +S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de l’Oulle.</p> +</div> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">461</span> +<span class = "miles to">76</span> +<b>AVIGNON</b>, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls, +garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the +Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. +N.E. from <b>Nîmes</b> by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and +Remoulins. <i>Hotels:</i> *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; +St. Yves, in the centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great +market-place. Temple Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the +Préfecture. Cabstands at station and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, +2 frs. per hour. From the station, a beautiful avenue, the +Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with +statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri IV., “Louis des +Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l’infanterie +française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading up +to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des Domes, and +the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the ramparts, compose +the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the palace lives just +within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite gate is the +Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The churches are +closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public on Sundays +between 12 and 4.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Avignon Palace.</span></p> + +<p>The present <a name = "avignon_palace" id = +"avignon_palace"><b>Palace</b></a>, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, +and finished by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, +consisting of plain walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by +long ungainly buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, +are the arms of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, +the balcony from which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is +the Cour d’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, +pierced by from 3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of +the same size. From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur, +a groined staircase, of which the steps were formerly of marble, to +the Salle Consistoriale d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before +this hall was divided into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170 +long. From it we enter the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone +Memmi of Sienna. Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the +left the small window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby +tunnelled in the wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie +de Conclave, the Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then +enter the Tour St. Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, +<span class = "pagenum">60</span> +<a name = "page60" id = "page60"> </a> +<!-- png 093 --> +or the chapel of the <b>Inquisition</b>, with mural paintings. In the +story immediately below is the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. +Jean, after passing through a large hall, we enter an octagonal room, +gradually narrowing towards the centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, +called the Tour Strapade. Some say this was the torture room; but it is +evidently more suited for a kitchen, which in all probability it was. +Adjoining is the Glacière, into whose underground cellars, now built up, +the democrats of 1791 flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had +murdered. From this we enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour +Trouillas, in which Rienzi was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain +fixed to the roof of his cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 +to 1234, and till 1793, the half of Avignon was occupied by +ecclesiastical edifices, which tolled daily 300 bells, and had among +them a daily succession of religious processions.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Avignon: Rocher des Doms. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p>From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, +the <a name = "avignon_rocher" id = "avignon_rocher"><b>Rocher des +Doms</b></a>; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a public +garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who introduced, in +1766, the culture of the “garance,” the <i>Rubia tinctoria</i>, now +superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a stair leads down +to the Rhône near the <a href = "#avignon_benezet">Bridge Bénézet</a> +(see page 63). In the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and +on the other side are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of +Villeneuve, and above it the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the +Cathedral <a name = "avignon_cathedral" id = +"avignon_cathedral"><b>Notre-Dame-des-Doms</b></a>, 194 feet above the +Rhône, approached by a stair called the Pater, because originally it had +as many steps as there are words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has +undergone many changes, and belongs to various periods. The portal and +lower part of the tower are of the 10th cent., and are due to +Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries later. The apse was added in 1671. +The most remarkable part of the structure is the cupola, terminating in +an octagonal lantern, and supported on pendentive arches. It bears +traces of frescoes painted in 1672. In the sanctuary is the marble +throne used by the Popes, in the sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean +XXII., and in one of the side chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the +third chapel (right hand) is a Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The +sacristan is generally in the small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ +fr. for showing the church and the tomb.</p> + +<p>Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end +a tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other +side of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the +<span class = "pagenum">61</span> +<a name = "page61" id = "page61"> </a> +<!-- png 094 --> +eastern end of the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts +every hour from the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops +at the east end of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Avignon: St. Agricol. Musée Calvet.</span></p> + +<p>In the “Place” the principal edifice is the <a name = +"avignon_hotel_de_ville" id = "avignon_hotel_de_ville"><b>Hôtel de +Ville</b></a>, built in 1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th +cent, of which all that remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard +and his wife, from the two figures which strike the hours. Next the +Hôtel de Ville is the theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +<a name = "avignon_st_agricol" id = "avignon_st_agricol"><b>St. +Agricol</b></a>, 1340, the patron saint of Avignon. To the right on +entering is the tomb of the painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April +1725, aged 86, and third chapel on same side is a virgin and child in +wood by Coysevox. To the left of the entrance is an ancient and elegant +marble baptismal font. At the foot of the short street St. Agricol, in +the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue +Calade is the <a name = "avignon_musee_calvet" id = +"avignon_musee_calvet"><b>Musée Calvet</b></a>, containing a valuable +collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4, +and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. Against the +wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this museum, Claud +François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On the right +is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to Laura de Sade, +dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the Cordeliers +(see <a href = "#page62">p. 62</a>). On the other side is the tomb +of the military strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the +outer court, and in the rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are +Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin +inscriptions, found in the neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and +<a href = "#vaison">Vaison</a> (p. 53). Among the sculptures in +relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses with their +hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent., from +Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the +Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches +and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope +Urbain V., of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal +Palice. Within railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, +and a bather by Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is +a valuable collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and +medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes +during their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition +while here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings, +including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures +have the artists’ names affixed. Those +<span class = "pagenum">62</span> +<a name = "page62" id = "page62"> </a> +<!-- png 095 --> +in the great hall are by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, +Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, +*Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F. Floris, Gericault, +Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and N. Mignard, J. and +P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun., Veronese, +Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room are the paintings by +Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few by Paul Huet. The +marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. In the centre of an +inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is the famous ivory +crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting the arms, +a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said that +Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_musee_requien" id = +"avignon_musee_requien"> +Avignon: Musée Requien.</a></span> +Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the +R. Petrarque or de la République, we have on the right the Museum +of Natural History in the church St. Martial, 15th cent. The greater +part of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851, +and of them the most interesting are those connected with the +neighbourhood, such as the flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the +fossils from Aix. In the eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at +No. 62 R. des Lices, is the Collége <a name = "avignon_st_joseph" id = +"avignon_st_joseph"><b>Saint Joseph</b></a>, containing within its +grounds all that remains (the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of +the church of the Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has +been repaired, and is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely +admitted. It is to the left of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no +vestiges, having been destroyed along with the church by an infuriated +mob in 1791. On the E. side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow +R. Prévot, is the church of <a name = "avignon_st_dedier" id = +"avignon_st_dedier"><b>St. Dedier</b></a>, 1355, containing, in first +chapel right from entrance, a relief in marble representing Christ +bearing his cross, executed by Francesco in 1481 at the request of King +René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. above the floor, is a stone +pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave of St. Bénézet is under a +plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front of the high altar. Near +St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and to the east of the +Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre (9 in plan), +1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The pictures about +the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and +Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, +the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and +Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town +<b>hospital</b> (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built +in the last century on the site of +<span class = "pagenum">63</span> +<a name = "page63" id = "page63"> </a> +<!-- png 096 --> +the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. Here, outside the +town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the left, is the +Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of the entrance. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "avignon_j_s_mill" id = +"avignon_j_s_mill"> +Avignon: J. S. Mill.</a></span> +In a corner at the end of a short avenue of pine trees is the white +marble monument to John Stuart Mill, b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th +May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet Mill, his beloved wife, +who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe, Nov. 3, 1858. +A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the whole +surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be +taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in +1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint, +and architect, <a name = "avignon_benezet" id = +"avignon_benezet"><b>Bénézet</b></a>, who before had constructed one +over the Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 +ft. long and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +On the second arch is the chapel of <a name = "avignon_st_nicolas" id = +"avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas</a>, in which the relics of St. Bénézet +were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Villeneuve-les-Avignon.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_villeneuve" id = +"avignon_to_villeneuve"> +Avignon to Villeneuve.</a></h5> + +<p>Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station, +while every hour an omnibus crosses for <a name = "villeneuve_avignon" +id = "villeneuve_avignon"><b>Villeneuve-les-Avignon</b></a>, pop. 3100, +2½ m. from the “Place,” or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near +the parish church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the +chapel to the left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty +elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs +is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture +belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two +subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different +artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads, +even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most +charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as +a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the +Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV., +where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she +married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where +her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law, +the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she +steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her +drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on +the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times +with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to +be +<span class = "pagenum">64</span> +<a name = "page64" id = "page64"> </a> +<!-- png 097 --> +broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by +Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno. +Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in +the 14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing +extraordinary. Near it are the ruins of the +Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an eminence Fort André, now +inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for Avignon starts every hour +at the hour, from the apsidal end of the parish church of +Villeneuve.</p> + +<p>Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the +Mistral, yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, +“Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours +from the drains in some of the streets being very offensive.</p> + +<p>Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was +forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General +Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery, +the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in +this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade, +opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Avignon to Nîmes.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_nimes" id = +"avignon_to_nimes"> +Avignon to Nîmes.</a></h5> + +<p>Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting +from the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those +wishing to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets +for the Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with +luggage, it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, +without loss of time on arriving, take other tickets to the +Pont-du-Gard, leaving the luggage behind. Time will generally be saved +by returning from the Pont to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the +road, but 5 m. by the rail. See <a href = "#map56">Map, +p. 56</a>. For <a href = "#nimes">Nîmes</a> see p. <ins class += "correction" title = "text reads ‘110’">101</ins>, and for the <a href += "#pont_du_gard">Pont-du-Gard</a> see <ins class = "correction" title = +"text reads ‘114’">p. 104</ins>. Consult the “Indicateur des +Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +L’Isle. Fontaine de Vaucluse.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "avignon_to_vaucluse" id = +"avignon_to_vaucluse"> +Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle.</a></h5> + +<p>From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the +village of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. <a name = "lisle" id = +"lisle"><b>L’Isle</b></a>, pop. 7000, a village on the Sorgues, +with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome reredos over +high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent dates from the +11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle hotels, Petrarque et +Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take them to Vaucluse and +back for 4 frs. each. From the village of <a name = "vaucluse" id = +"vaucluse"><b>Vaucluse</b></a>, pop. 600, take for the fountain the road +on +<span class = "pagenum">65</span> +<a name = "page65" id = "page65"> </a> +<!-- png 098 --> +the right bank of stream, but for the house and garden of Petrarch take +the left side, crossing the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff +near the cloth mill, is a small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of +which it is a copy. Before it, is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s +garden. On the other side of the Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is +a little hotel at Vaucluse, the Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a +stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the source of the river Sorgue, the +placid <a name = "fontaine_vaucluse" id = +"fontaine_vaucluse"><b>Fontaine de Vaucluse</b></a> about 30 yards in +diameter— “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still, +that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and +water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to +contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into +the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock +crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal +Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description +of the site:— “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; +on another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day +heats, and which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its +friendly shade; but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In +the distance a surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. +Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds—these are my delights. My table is +also graced with the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my +greatest pleasures to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw +them myself. All about me is changed. I once used to dress myself +with care; now you would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house +resembles that of Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The +house of my servant adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and +when I have no more need of him he returns home.”</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "avignon_petrarch" id = +"avignon_petrarch"> +<span class = "headnote">Avignon: Petrarch.</span></a></p> + +<p>On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of +Avignon Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a +romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful +vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France, +Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned +to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.</p> + +<p>Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to +18 frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.</p> + +<p>20½ m. from Avignon by rail is <a href = "#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a> +(p. 66), whence a branch line extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another +line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the Marseilles and Grenoble line, and +another 22½ m. S. to <a href = "#miramas"><b>Miramas</b></a> +(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See <a href = "#map66">map, +p. 66</a>.)</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">66</span> +<a name = "page66" id = "page66"> </a> +<!-- png 099 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Apt.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "avignon_to_manosque" id = +"avignon_to_manosque"> +AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is <a name = "apt" id = +"apt"><b>Apt</b></a>, pop. 7000, on the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered +hollow surrounded by mountains and calcareous cliffs. <i>Hotels:</i> The +*Louvre; des Alpes. The principal industries are agriculture, pottery, +and the making of preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as +well as that on which the sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to +soak from 2 to 8 months in a strong solution of white sugar, in +uncovered “terrines,” like small basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such +as oranges, are pricked before being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard +Croix) is near the station, to the left on descending the hill. The +clay, gray and reddish, is in thick beds close to the establishment, and +resembles that of Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting +fire, and is therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen +pottery. M. Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea +services, of which the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the +establishment of L. A. Esbérard, who confines himself almost +exclusively to kitchen pottery.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on +entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower. +Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of the +mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which many +are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque +(<i>Hotel:</i> Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E., +and Reillanne, on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on +the rail between Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, <a href = +"#map27">pages 26</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "cavaillon_to_miramas" id = +"cavaillon_to_miramas"><b>Cavaillon to Miramas</b></a>, 22½ m. S. (see +<a href = "#map66">map, p. 66</a>), across a fertile plain, with +vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. <a name = +"cavaillon" id = "cavaillon"><b>Cavaillon</b></a> (pop. 8000). +<i>Inns:</i> Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. Cavaillon is a +pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on the Durance at +the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an ancient triumphal +arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th cents., with a +cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the neighbourhood. +4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is <a name = "orgon" id = +"orgon"><b>Orgon</b></a> (pop. 3000. <i>Inns:</i> Paris; Poste), on the +Durance. 11 m. farther S. is <a name = "salon" id = +"salon"><b>Salon</b></a> (pop. 7100. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Croix de +Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, dealing largely in first-class +olive oil, has still remnants of its old ramparts: a church, St. +Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St. Laurent, of the 14th, and a +castle of the same date. In the town is a fountain to the memory of Adam +de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. (For <a href = +"#miramas">Miramas</a>, see p. 75.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tarascon. Martha’s Tomb.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">474</span> +<span class = "miles to">63</span> +<a name = "tarascon" id = "tarascon"><b>TARASCON</b></a>, pop. 11,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> At the foot of the station stairs, the Luxembourg; in the +town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to Nîmes, 17 m. W., and +31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a large hospital +for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc Molière. Tarascon is +an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite Beaucaire, and connected with +it by a chain bridge +<span class = "pagenum">67</span> +<a name = "page67" id = "page67"> </a> +<!-- png 101 --> +1450 feet long. In the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is +an ancient crypt, just under the spire, with the <a name = +"marthas_tomb" id = "marthas_tomb">tomb of Martha</a>, the sister of +Lazarus, whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the +peaceful-looking marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of +the place says she had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of +the inhabitants, to kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a +bull’s, and having succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, +after her death buried her in this place. A few steps from the +church, by the side of the river, rises the massive strong square +castle, begun in 1400 and finished by the Roi René, now used as a +prison. On the opposite side of the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are +the more picturesque ruins of the castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining +garden forms one of the many promenades of the people of Beaucaire. +Beaucaire is a poor town with poor houses. The formerly famous fair, +commencing on July 1, has become now of little importance. It is held in +the broad avenue between the castle and the Rhône.</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +THE MOUTHS OF THE RHONE.</p> + +<!-- png 100 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 66</span> +<i>For continuation northwards see <a href = "#map56">map, page +56</a>.</i><br> +[West] <i>For continuation see map, page 107.</i><br> +<a name = "map66" id = "map66" href = "images/map66.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map66thumb.png" width = "466" height = "232" +alt = "see caption"></a><br> +<i>For continuation eastwards see <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#map123">map, page 123</a>.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Remy. Les Baux.</span></p> + +<p>9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is <a name = "st_remy" id = +"st_remy"><b>St. Remy</b></a>, pop. 6800. <i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Cheval +Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for Les +Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and +Mont-Majour, 19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel +Cheval Blanc, by the high road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the +commercial stations of the Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it +fell into the possession of the Romans, who have left here two +remarkable monuments, of which the more perfect consists of an open +square tower standing on a massive pedestal, and surmounted by a +peristyle of ten columns surrounding two statues representing the +parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of the Julii, by whom it was +erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the statues look to the north. +The sculpture on the north side of the pedestal represents a cavalry +fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west, a combat between +infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, “Victory crowning +a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch, of which the most +perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the soffit.</p> + +<p>6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is <a name = "les_baux" id = +"les_baux"><b>Les Baux</b></a>, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, pop. 100. +<i>Inn:</i> Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in 485, +occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature into +bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by ancient +art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art and +nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie cheek-by-jowl +with masses of the rough-hewn +<span class = "pagenum">68</span> +<a name = "page68" id = "page68"> </a> +<!-- png 102 --> +rock; fallen cavern vaults are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped +spandrel and clustered column shaft; the doors and windows of old +pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and wild fig tapestry; while winding +staircases start midway upon the cliff and lead to vacancy. High +overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang chambers—lady’s bower or +poet’s singing room—now inaccessible, the haunt of hawks and +swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb— “cette ville en monolithe,” +as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped out of one +mountain block—live a few poor people, foddering their wretched +goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their +mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux +road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles +(see <a href = "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arles.</span></p> + +<!-- png 103 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 68</span> +[East]<br> +<a name = "map68" id = "map68" href = "images/map68.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map68thumb.png" width = "347" height = "559" +alt = "plan of Arles" title = "Arles"></a><br> +[West]<br> +<i>Scale of ¼ Mile</i> +</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">483</span> +<span class = "miles to">54</span> +<a name = "arles" id = "arles"><b>ARLES</b></a>, pop. 26,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Nord; Forum; near each other in the Place du Forum. Arles +is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a marshy place, as its +original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, “Ar lach,” damp place, +indicates. It is said to have been founded 900 years before Marseilles, +700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the birth of Christ. The ramparts +and walls rising from the public gardens and the Boulevard des Aliscamps +are chiefly the work of the Emperor Constantine, who came to Arles with +his family and mother, Saint Helena. He built by the side of the Rhône a +superb palace, called afterwards “de la Trouille,” because opposite a +ferry-boat, which was pulled or dragged from one side of the river to +the other. Of this palace little more remains than the attached tower La +Trouille, constructed of alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th +August 312 his wife Faustina presented him with a son, +Constantine II., who succeeded his father in May 357. He commenced +the Forum, but was shortly after killed in battle defending himself +against his brother Constance, who usurped the throne and finished the +Forum. All that remains of this formerly splendid edifice are the two +Corinthian columns, with part of the pediment encrusted into the wall of +the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the site of the Place du Forum, called +also the Place des Hommes, because labourers and men-servants used to be +hired in this “Place.”</p> + +<p>In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on +the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The +spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these +baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an +ossuary.</p> + +<p>Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, +<span class = "pagenum">69</span> +<a name = "page69" id = "page69"> </a> +<!-- png 104 --> +now the Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, +sarcophagi, urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, +those of the Pagans having the letters D.M., <i>Diis manibus</i>. Also +some of the long lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius +Porthinus fac.,” which helped to bring water from the fountain at the +foot of the hill on which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is +a torse of Mithras of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in +1598 on the site of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the +body, and between the coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite +corner is an altar in Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,” +found under the church La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak +leaves and acorns, and 7 inches distant from each other two human ears. +Near it is a good head of Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About +the centre of the room is a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine +skin under his arm.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, +hewn by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in +the Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges +remain.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arles: St. Trophime.</span></p> + +<p>Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of <a name = "arles_st_trophime" +id = "arles_st_trophime"><b>St. Trophime</b></a>, consecrated on the +17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221, +consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are +statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum +is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists. +In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the +cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the +16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.</p> + +<p>Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, +we arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, +and finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin, +originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian +columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the +proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators, +with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most +valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to +the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to +strangers.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arles: Amphitheatre.</span></p> + +<p>A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing <a name = +"arles_amphitheatre" id = "arles_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a> +or Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius +Nero, <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. +long and 132 wide, surrounded by a double wall 60 ft. high, each with +two stages of +<span class = "pagenum">70</span> +<a name = "page70" id = "page70"> </a> +<!-- png 105 --> +arches, and in each stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers +of stone seats, capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps +leading up to them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were +besides above 150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the +theatre, and 100 dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by +the Saracens in the 8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, +when a multitude of spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the +galleries. A splendid view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of +the commencement of the delta of the Rhône, is had from the western +tower. The entrance into the amphitheatre is by the north gate. The +doorkeeper lives in a house a little to the left of the gate. This grand +ruin should, if possible, be visited by moonlight; yet during the day +the beautiful masonry is more easily examined. It is the great sight in +Arles, and it is better to omit all the others than to do this one +hurriedly.</p> + +<p>The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of +Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the +Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east +by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with +extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It +is best visited by the steamboat sailing <a href = +"#arles_to_port_st_louis">between Arles and Port St. Louis</a> on the +mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and <a href = "#map66">map, +p. 66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arles: Elysei Campi. Trophimus.</span></p> + +<p>S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on +the site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down +the Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. +The first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the +monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side +by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without +lids. This, the <a name = "arles_elysei" id = "arles_elysei"><b>Elysei +Campi</b></a>, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested of all its +valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As +J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of +the cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be +especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury +their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with +their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône, +of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of +the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel +founded by <a name = "arles_trophimus" id = +"arles_trophimus">Trophimus</a> the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s +converts, who was sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end +to human sacrifices. Among the first things he is +<span class = "pagenum">71</span> +<a name = "page71" id = "page71"> </a> +<!-- png 106 --> +said to have done was to consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus +from a heathen into a Christian burial-place, and add to it a little +chapel. An old Arles writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus +dedicated this chapel to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 +years in this diocese he died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried +in the little chapel he himself had built. Among the successors of +Trophimus were Ambrose in 160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in +220, who died 10 years afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years +afterwards; Marcien in 252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. +Cyprien in 253. Saint Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the +church of St. Honorat beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church +dates only from the 12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, +excepting the foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is +semicircular, with 4 pilasters and a small window in the centre to give +light to the officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry +in two arcaded stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper +calls a small chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel +of Trophimus.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arles: Picture Gallery.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "arles_gallery" id = "arles_gallery"><b>Picture +Gallery</b></a>, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure, +near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the +town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. +On picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the +picture gallery is the school of design.</p> + +<p>Branch line from <a name = "arles_to_fontvieille" id = +"arles_to_fontvieille">Arles to Fontvieille</a>, 7 m. E., passing +Mont-Majour 4 m. E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les +Baux by a good road. Junction at Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, +36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m. S.W.; Cette is +17 m. farther. (See <a href = "#map66">map, p. 66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont-Majour.</span></p> + +<p>4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and +abbey of <a name = "montmajour" id = +"montmajour"><b>Mont-Majour</b></a>, all in a good state of +preservation, excepting the domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The +concierge lives in a house near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He +generally shows first the church, 11th cent., and the spacious crypt +below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are the cloisters, 11th cent., of +the same kind as those of St. Trophime, but more interesting and more +perfect, and containing the tombs of some of the counts of Anjou. Next +is the beautiful square dungeon tower, nearly as perfect as when erected +in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is ascended by 137 steps, and commands a +wide prospect. From this, a stair leads down the face of the hill +to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, principally hewn in the soft +limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base of the hill is St. Croix, +dedicated in 1019, +<span class = "pagenum">72</span> +<a name = "page72" id = "page72"> </a> +<!-- png 107 --> +consisting of four semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting +from a square tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille +(Hôtel du Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous +sandstone.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "arles_to_port_st_louis" id = +"arles_to_port_st_louis"><b>Arles to Port Saint Louis</b></a>, at the +mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S. by steamer on the Great Rhône. +Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway unfinished (see <a href = +"#map66">map, p. 66</a>). The steamboat passes by an important part +of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by +irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines. +Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass which +cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that not a +village is seen during the whole journey. (See also <a href = +"#page70">p. 70</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Port Saint Louis.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "port_st_louis" id = "port_st_louis"><b>Port Saint +Louis</b></a> (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc, +consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of the +canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. This +canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand +the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed to +every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,” whence the +plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, appears literally +like a map. The only villages seen in the vast expanse are Fos, on a +hill, and near it the Port Bouc.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient +place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from +Marseilles.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great +Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or +simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by +fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good +sculpture.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For <a name = "arles_to_port_bouc" id = "arles_to_port_bouc" href = +"#port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Arles to Port Bouc</b></a>, 29 m. S., see +p. 76. The steamer sails from the S.W. corner of Arles (see <a href += "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Gilles. Lunel.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is <a name = "st_gilles" id = +"st_gilles"><b>St. Gilles</b></a>, pop. 7000. Hôtel du Cheval-Blanc. +A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, near the +Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered a good +specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a bald wall +with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are three +semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on two +single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but the +pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque animals +in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches of the +portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, separated +from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a nave and two +aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. aisle a stair +of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with semicircular arches on +short massive piers. From the centre 7 more steps descend to the tomb of +St. Gilles. All the characteristics of this church are equally well +represented in St. Trophime of Arles.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is <a name = "lunel" id += "lunel"><b>Lunel</b></a>, pop. +<span class = "pagenum">73</span> +<a name = "page73" id = "page73"> </a> +<!-- png 108 --> +7300. <i>Inns:</i> Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of +narrow streets, with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The +church is constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and +Perpignan. On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The +first-class vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to +18°, are all on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aigues-Mortes.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘8. m.’">8 m.</ins> S. by +rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of <a name = "aiguesmortes" +id = "aiguesmortes"><b>AIGUES-MORTES</b></a>, “stagnant waters,” pop. +4300, 4 m. from the Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and +connected with it by a navigable canal. <i>Inn:</i> Saint Louis. It is +of great historical interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old +embrasured wall in France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 +yds. long by 149 yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 +towers. On the western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, +96 ft. high and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed +circular chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their +Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties that +the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their +behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for them, +but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the highly +interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, whence +the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has not, +receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis—we think not. +Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint Louis, +who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it the most +suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for Palestine. On +25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church +Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen +Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to +Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place; +and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition, +the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. +S. from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the +bathing station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. <i>Inns:</i> Pommier; Dubois (see +<a href = "#map66">map, page 66</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is <a href = "#vigan">Vigan</a>. (See page +105.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from +Nîmes, and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montpellier.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "montpellier" id = "montpellier"><b>MONTPELLIER</b></a>, on +the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above the sea and +7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. <i>Hotels:</i> H. Nevet, the +best and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the +same side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings +containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and the +Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. Adjoining +is the Lycée.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, +the next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc, +frequented by commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la +Gare. In the fine broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the +<span class = "pagenum">74</span> +<a name = "page74" id = "page74"> </a> +<!-- png 109 --> +station to the Place de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second +class. Their omnibuses await passengers.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office +in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. From +the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de la +Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below the +prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See <a href = "#map66">map, +p. 66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montpellier: Botanic Gardens.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from the +station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the +citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a line +of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the <a name = +"montpellier_botanic" id = "montpellier_botanic"><b>Botanic +Gardens</b></a>, the earliest institution of this kind in France, +founded in the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the +direction of the famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 +acres, divided into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., +in a hollow, surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these +two divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once +famous <b>École de médecine</b>, said to have been founded by Arab +physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now +occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with +additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez, +1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts of +the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the college +and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also valuable +anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with 55,000 vols. +Adjoining is the <b>Cathedral</b> of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th cents., +but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White marble statue +of Mary and child by Canova.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place du +Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold weather +invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower terrace of +this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western end of the +Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian building, which +receives and distributes through the town the water brought from the +fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The aqueduct, +which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite hill, +consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long. The gate +at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the victories of +Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with statues of +Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked streets, are the +Mairie and the markets.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montpellier: Musée Fabre.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also on +the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the <a name = +"montpellier_fabre" id = "montpellier_fabre"><b>Musée Fabre</b></a>, the +Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the “Collection de la +Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays and +feast days, contains, among many works of inferior merit, some good +pictures by great artists, such as Berghem, +<span class = "pagenum">75</span> +<a name = "page75" id = "page75"> </a> +<!-- png 110 --> +Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van +Dyck, Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese, +Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, +Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. +The library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, +which belonged to Prince Charles Edward.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called +St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of +preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the +principal industries.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line +extends through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and +yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m. +south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is +the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the +Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume +and linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. +3 m. from Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the +mineral water establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and +sedative. Good for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north +from Montpellier is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu +(pop. 500) to the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and +having on the top a chapel visited by pilgrims.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from +Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See <a href = "#map27">map, +page 27</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Frontignan. Cette.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is <a name = "frontignan" id = +"frontignan"><b>Frontignan</b></a>, pop. 3000. Possessing 570 acres of +vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, luscious, and spirituous wines, +made principally from the clairette and picardan grapes. The +neighbouring marshes yield annually about 50,000 tons of salt.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +114 m. from Marseilles is <a name = "cette" id = +"cette"><b>Cette</b></a>, pop. 29,000. At this point the Chemins de Fer +de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du Midi, and +consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to Toulouse and +Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur des Chemins de +Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from Bordeaux, and +84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await passengers. +<i>Hotels:</i> Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette makes a +pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. Setius, 590 +ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest part of the +Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is magnificent. In +front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with its villages. At +the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond Frontignan. The Port of +Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. long, which encloses a +harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two jetties; the western, +constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the eastern 548 yds. This +busy port, besides having an extensive carrying trade, has a large wine +manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of imitations of all the +well-known wines are made annually, by mixing different wines with each +other.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">76</span> +<a name = "page76" id = "page76"> </a> +<!-- png 111 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway bridge) +a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, on +Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade. +Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline +springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. +A quart contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the +chloride of magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 +grains of the sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 +to 9 fr., and the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du +Midi enters Lake Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See +<a href = "#map27">map, page 27</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Miramas. Port Bouc.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">503</span> +<span class = "miles to">34</span> +<a name = "miramas" id = "miramas"><b>MIRAMAS</b></a>, pop. 900, south +from the station at the head of the Étang Chamas. At the station there +are a small inn and a large plantation of almond trees, which, when in +flower, exhale a delightful perfume. Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon +and L’Isle change carriages here (<a href = +"#avignon_to_vaucluse">p. 65</a>). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. +south.</p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "miramas_to_portbouc" id = +"miramas_to_portbouc"> +MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.</a></h5> + +<p><b>Miramas to Port Bouc</b> by rail through a flat plain (see <a href += "#map66">map, p. 66</a>). The two most important towns passed on +the way are: <a name = "istres" id = "istres"><b>Istres</b></a>, +6¼ m. from Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, +founded in the 8th cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of +its ancient ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt +and of the carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is <a name = +"fos" id = "fos"><b>Fos</b></a> (Fossae Marianae), pop. 1100, on a hill +crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large tanks +for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by rail, +or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 miles S. +from Arles by the canal, is <a name = "port_bouc" id = +"port_bouc"><b>Port Bouc</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> near the +stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du Commerce; +near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang Caroute, near +the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is an important +fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. At the end of +the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of 10 m. At the +other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive square tower in +the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west from Port +Bouc by the coast road is the <a href = "#port_st_louis">Port of St. +Louis</a>, page 72. (For <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_to_martigues">Port Bouc to Martigues and +Marseilles</a>, see p. 118.)</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "port_bouc_to_arles" id = "port_bouc_to_arles"><b>Port Bouc to +Arles</b></a>, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; fare, +3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are +very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between +Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about +½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. +Passengers drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors +at the S.W. corner of Arles. (See <a href = +"#arles_to_port_st_louis">p. 72</a>, and <a href = "#map66">map +p. 66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Saint Chamas. Rognac.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">506½</span> +<span class = "miles to">30½</span> +<a name = "st_chamas" id = "st_chamas"><b>SAINT CHAMAS </b></a>(Sanctus +Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. +<span class = "pagenum">77</span> +<a name = "page77" id = "page77"> </a> +<!-- png 112 --> +from the station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre, +and on both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with +excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder +manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville +is the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre, +with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about 22 +ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian pilaster +surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. On the top at +each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are apparently ready to +spring eastward, and the other two westward. The bridge is in a state of +perfect repair, but the sculpture and inscription on the two arches over +the entrances are slightly effaced. The road to it is by the Hôtel de +Ville and the parish church with a rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the +portal. The bridge is to the E. of St. Chamas, and is well seen from the +railway, especially when crossing the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, +which carry the rail over the little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. +E. from St. Chamas is Berre station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly +south, on <a name = "lake_berre" id = "lake_berre"><b>Lake +Berre</b></a>, a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in +circumference.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">519½</span> +<span class = "miles to">17½</span> +<a name = "rognac" id = "rognac"><b>ROGNAC</b></a>, pop. 900. Junction +with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under the <a name = +"roquefavour" id = "roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> aqueduct, 7½ m. +E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. of water per second from +the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring plain, commences opposite +<a name = "pertuis_2" id = "pertuis_2">Pertuis</a>, directly north from +Marseilles. It is 94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under +ground; it has a fall of 614 ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of +limestone hills, and crosses numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the +largest crosses the ravine of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This +aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½ +ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft. wide at the water-way. It consists of +51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and cost £151,394, while the cost of the +whole canal from the Durance to the sea, near Cape Croisette, +a little to the east of Marseilles, has been £2,090,000. +A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons per +minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by +irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the +basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp">Palais de +Longchamp</a>. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps +pp. <a href = "#page66">66</a> and <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page123">123</a>.)</p> + +<p>To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, +pass under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path +and partly by steps to the house of the concierge.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">78</span> +<a name = "page78" id = "page78"> </a> +<!-- png 113 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aix. Hôtel de Ville.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only +18 m. N. by Gardanne, is <a name = "aix_en_provence" id = +"aix_en_provence"><b>Aix</b>-en-Provence</a>, pop. 29,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east +end of the Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the +Hôtel du Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the +France; at the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, +the Hôtel Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph +offices in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite +the Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was +founded 120 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> by the Consul Sextius +Calvinus around the thermal springs, which he himself had discovered. +The temperature of the water is 95° F., and the ingredients, iron and +iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides of soda and magnesia, +together with an organic bituminous matter strongly impregnated with +glairine. The establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours +Sextius. Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the +Cours René is a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king +of Naples, Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and +buried at Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, +was a poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and +astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art +and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up to +the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de +Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the church +of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the host. +A little higher up are the <a name = "aix_hotel_ville" id = +"aix_hotel_ville"><b>Hôtel de Ville</b></a>, built in 1640; the +Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and +spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower, +bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de Ville +is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble statue of +Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also the public +library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer book of King +René, with illustrations said to have been done by himself. No. 569 is a +small 4to volume, with copies of letters written by Queen Mary Stuart. +The first 57 pages relate to her early history. At page 645 commences a +defence of her conduct, written by a warm partisan of the queen. The +street, ascending through the gateway of the clock tower, leads to the +university buildings, the palace of the archbishop, and the +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "aix_cathedral" id = +"aix_cathedral"> +Aix: Cathedral.</a></span> +Cathedral of <b>Saint Sauveur</b>, built in the 11th cent., partly on +the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 ft. high, was +built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The façade was +commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great entrance +door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain outer door. In +the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an octagonal chapel with +six antique marble and two granite Corinthian columns about 30 ft. high, +each shaft being of one stone. The ornamental sculpture on the panels +and in the spandrels is by Puget. On the same side are two triptychs, +one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by Saints,” and the +<span class = "pagenum">79</span> +<a name = "page79" id = "page79"> </a> +<!-- png 114 --> +other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, representing in the +centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in a clump of trees. On +one wing is King René on his knees, attended by the Magdalene, St. +Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is the king’s second +wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron saints. On the outside of +the shutters are the angel Gabriel and Mary.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the +left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511, +representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to +have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church +possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000 +virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. +Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our +Lord.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aix: Picture Gallery.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to the +church of St. Jean and the <a name = "aix_gallery" id = +"aix_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a> adjoining; free on Sundays and +Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. by the +Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John +of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the left of the altar is the +tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions, +and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of +paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or +numbers.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about +the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,” are flat +and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is +reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged +is—the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather +plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are +large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be +allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The +trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Rians. Meyrargues.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +(For the following see maps, <a href = "#map66">pages 66</a> and +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map123">123</a>.) Coach daily +from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. +E. The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated +near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the +culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire +mountains. <a name = "rians" id = "rians"><b>Rians</b></a>, pop. 2900, +<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards. +Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. from +Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N., +with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou, +in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the +fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +<a name = "peyrolles" id = "peyrolles"><b>Peyrolles</b></a> (pop. 1200. +<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of +the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old +fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "meyrargues" id = "meyrargues"><b>Meyrargues</b></a> (pop. +2000. <i>Inn:</i> Reynaud) is situated with its castle +<span class = "pagenum">80</span> +<a name = "page80" id = "page80"> </a> +<!-- png 115 --> +in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from +Rians.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "diligences" id = "diligences"> +<span class = "headnote">Diligences. Branch Lines.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by +La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. +W. Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For <a href = +"#salon">Salon</a>, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from Pelissanne is +Lambesc.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best +way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a +coach awaits passengers for <a name = "st_cannat" id = "st_cannat">St. +Cannat</a>, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther. In the +village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de la Vie, visited by +pilgrims. <a name = "lambesc" id = "lambesc"><b>Lambesc</b></a>, +14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably +situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive +oil and silk form the principal industries.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is <b>Gardanne</b>, pop. +3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules, +52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules</a>, +p. 142.)</p> + +<p>From Rognac the <a name = "branch_lines" id = +"branch_lines">train</a> passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at +Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. +3¼ m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is +Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see <a href = +"#avignon_to_manosque">p. 66</a>), 12¾ m. E.</p> + +<p>Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and +7 miles north from Marseilles, is the station of <a name = +"lestaque" id = "lestaque"><b>L’Estaque</b></a>, a village on the +sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the +valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, +architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at +Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis +XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the +youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor +stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy.</p> + +<p><a name = "marseilles_note" id = "marseilles_note" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (see p. 111). Cabs and +the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the +large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station. +At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the +Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than +moderate.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">81</span> +<a name = "page81" id = "page81"> </a> +<!-- png 116 --> +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name= "lyons_to_nimes" id = "lyons_to_nimes"> +LYONS TO NÎMES.</a></h4> + +<p class = "smaller"> +172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins, +Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil, +Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.</p> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Maps, <a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, +<a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href = "#map66">66</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles to">172</span> +<b>LYONS</b>: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing +Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop. +1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle +converted into a school. 4 m. farther is <a name = "givors_canal" +id = "givors_canal"><b>Givors-canal</b></a>, where the Nîmes line +separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of +Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by +the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The +train now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, +famous for chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to +<a name = "ampuis" id = "ampuis"><b>Ampuis</b></a> (opposite Vaugris), pop. +2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and +possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres +belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France, +remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a +little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by +rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white +wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, +pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i> +H. Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by +coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of +Virieux castle. 7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway +viaduct of 66 arches.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">39¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">132¾</span> +<a name = "peyraud" id = "peyraud"><b>PEYRAUD</b></a>, pop. 400. +Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to Grenoble, 60 m. +E. by Rives and Voreppe. <a name = "annonay" id = +"annonay"><b>Annonay</b></a>, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on +the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme +and the Cance. <i>Inn:</i> H. Midi, in the principal square, +occupying the centre of the low town. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The +Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers +Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d +June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one +of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed +the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a +beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends +9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. <i>Inn:</i> France. Bourg, as +the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on +the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains +<span class = "pagenum">82</span> +<a name = "page82" id = "page82"> </a> +<!-- png 117 --> +covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the +castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a +vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered +with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide +travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau +called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends +to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière +2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tournon.</span></p> + +<p>56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with +which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is <a name = "tournon" +id = "tournon"><b>Tournon</b></a>, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de +l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the +Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many +of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the +Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of +St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed +arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach +daily to <a href = "#le_cheilard">Le Cheilard</a>, 5½ hrs., ascending +all the way (see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; +to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. +3 m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See <a href += "#map46">map, p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">65½</span> +<span class = "miles to">106½</span> +<a name = "st_peray" id = "st_peray"><b>SAINT PERAY</b></a>, pop. 3000. +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for +Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station, +situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards +here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural, +not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case +with the other champagnes.</p> + +<p>69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by +the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, +La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. +2½ m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. +Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (<a href = +"#map46">Map, p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">77</span> +<span class = "miles to">95</span> +<a name = "la_voulte" id = "la_voulte"><b>LA VOULTE</b></a>, pop. 5000. +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat +stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the +steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the +Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard +Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in 1582, +who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and +the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large +iron-foundry, employing 170 men. +<span class = "pagenum">83</span> +<a name = "page83" id = "page83"> </a> +<!-- png 118 --> +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the +decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. <i>Inn:</i> +H. Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The +water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily +from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., +and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places +separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and +15 m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See <a href = "#map46">map, +p. 46</a>.) <a name = "st_sauveur" id = "st_sauveur"><b>St. +Sauveur</b></a>, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily +situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high +rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled +terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut, +chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots +vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is +itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the +river, opposite the village Chalançon, <i>Inn:</i> H. Astier, is a +very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, <a name = +"le_cheilard" id = "le_cheilard"><b>Le Cheilard</b></a>, 2130 ft. above +the sea, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i> H. Courtial. This, the great +diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow +streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty +terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. +Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far +as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges +northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. +Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the +Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. from Le Puy, near the river +Lignon, pop. 900. (<a href = "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</span></p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "loire_source_road" id = +"loire_source_road"> +ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "st_saveur_to_le_beage" id = "st_saveur_to_le_beage"><b>Saint +Sauveur to Le Beage</b></a> by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and +Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St. +Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the +road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. <a name = "st_pierreville" id = +"st_pierreville"><b>St. Pierreville</b></a>, 1788 ft. above the sea, +pop. 2100. <i>Inns:</i> Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an +eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for +Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the +course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. before +reaching Marcols is the clean little village of <b>Olbon</b>, on both +sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and a +Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a +spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is <a name = "marcols" id = +"marcols"><b>Marcols</b></a>, 3380 ft. above the sea, a small +village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère. +<i>Inn:</i> H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the +stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As +conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for +those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to +spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a +vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day, +<span class = "pagenum">84</span> +<a name = "page84" id = "page84"> </a> +<!-- png 119 --> +with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is +28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols +6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep +terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation, +is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone +cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th +cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little +farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to +Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the +prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from Mezillac the +road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of <a name = "lachamp_raphael" id = +"lachamp_raphael"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél</b></a>, 4364 ft. above the sea. +Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally +abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had, +with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp +by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark +abyss. Any lad can show the way.</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "loire_source" id = "loire_source"> +<span class = "headnote">Source of the Loire.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">MONT MEZENC<br> +and the SOURCE of the LOIRE</span></p> + +<!-- png 120 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 84</span> +<a name = "map84" id = "map84" href = "images/map84.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map84thumb.png" width = "490" height = "253" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> +</div> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "gerbier_de_joncs" id = "gerbier_de_joncs"> +THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the +road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison +Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison +Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road, +which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen +after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking +from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The +<b>Gerbier-de-Joncs</b> (<i>Gerbiarum jugum</i>) is an isolated pointed +cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above +the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and +extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte +and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running +first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining +farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4 +inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of +a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les +Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755 +ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to +Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage" id = +"lachamp_raphael_to_le_beage"><b>Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage</b></a>, +12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been +ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend +till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating +point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier +diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road crosses +the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St. +Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Beage. Mezenc.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "le_beage" id = "le_beage"><b>Le Beage</b></a>, pop. 850. +<i>Inns:</i> La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle +and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully +<span class = "pagenum">85</span> +<a name = "page85" id = "page85"> </a> +<!-- png 121 --> +situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in +a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the +mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually +here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the +weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making +on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short +cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads. +The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the +rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace, +from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn +1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater +is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of <a name = "mont_mezenc" id = +"mont_mezenc"><b>Mezenc</b></a> (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the +best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½ m. +N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the +direct path. <i>Inns:</i> Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The +hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea, +or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc. +The ascent takes about an hour.</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_beage_to_le_puy" id = +"le_beage_to_le_puy"> +LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the +opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea, +and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le +Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Monastier.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip space"> +<a name = "le_monastier" id = "le_monastier"><b>LE MONASTIER</b></a>, +pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. <i>Inns:</i> +Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m. +S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the +sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles, +connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St. +Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680, +and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and +enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits +throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a +semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with +sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large +rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a +string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In +the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting +shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint +Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du +Monastier”— “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son +troupeau”— the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his +litany.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road +is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is +at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the +hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the +<span class = "pagenum">86</span> +<a name = "page86" id = "page86"> </a> +<!-- png 122 --> +village of Arsac, <i>Inn:</i> H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. +more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the +fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire +at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from +Brives.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Puy. The Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and +33 m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between +Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. <a href = "#page26">26</a> and <a href += "#page46">46</a>), is</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "le_puy" id = "le_puy">Le +Puy,</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers +Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town. +<a name = "le_puy_hotels" id = "le_puy_hotels"><i>Hotels:</i></a> +Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin +with the <a name = "le_puy_cathedral" id = +"le_puy_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>. From the high side of the Place +de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles, +Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone +pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables +to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front +of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the +portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and +having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of +the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill +from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from +its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the +cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of +the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side +entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an +extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of +it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the +other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north +side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an +arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square, +with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on +square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest, +beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The +church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427, +when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and +restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each, +excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers. +Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high +altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,<a name = "tag_1" id += "tag_1" href = "#note_1">*</a> brought from Cairo in 1251, and +presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed +in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the +pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were +<span class = "pagenum">87</span> +<a name = "page87" id = "page87"> </a> +<!-- png 123 --> +executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large +picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries +carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague, +which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the +Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its +protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the +north portal is the baptistery of <b>St. Jean</b>, built in the 4th +cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice.</p> + +<p class = "footnote"> +<a name = "note_1" id = "note_1" href = "#tag_1">* </a> +The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the +child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The +form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both +were swathed in two plies of linen.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Puy: Notre Dame de France.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, +a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. +On the top is the image of <a name = "notre_dame_de_france" id = +"notre_dame_de_france"><b>Notre Dame de France</b></a>, 433 ft. above +the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the +27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is +52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5 +ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child, +J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90 +steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps +extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal +figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is +seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645 +ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is +the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours Mons.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up +to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, +d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux +is the sculptor of both of them.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aiguilhe.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the +<a name = "aiguilhe" id = "aiguilhe"><b>Aiguilhe</b></a>, 265 ft. high, +518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266 +steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael, +commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The +present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the +beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally +the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural +paintings. The views are superb.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an +octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the +post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower +which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little +distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of +the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin, +who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of +Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is +the <a name = "le_puy_musee" id = "le_puy_musee"><b>Musée</b></a>, open +on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly +labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural +relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments +belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the +baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the +<span class = "pagenum">88</span> +<a name = "page88" id = "page88"> </a> +<!-- png 124 --> +right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman +antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle +Ages.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Upstairs is the <a name = "le_puy_gallery" id = +"le_puy_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. In the centre room are +portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy +of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of +Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died +at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his +native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly +belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, +d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; +Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, +1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, +1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection +of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among +other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, +Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de +France, wife of Charles I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722; +Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, +J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace, +blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and +villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which +articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books +are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, +Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; +the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day +she was married to Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Ours Mons.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is <a name = "ours_mons" id = "ours_mons"><b>Ours +Mons</b></a>, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The +prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable; +“exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great +variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures, +belonging to different epochs.”</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langogne" id = +"le_puy_to_langogne"> +LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map, p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Le Puy</b>, 2045 ft., to <b>Langogne</b>, 2940 ft. above the sea, +26 m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a +high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is +about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from +Pradelles. 8 m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. +From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. +above the sea, pop. 1450. <i>Inn:</i> Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and +cheese-making village, about 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct +crater of <a name = "le_bouchet" id = "le_bouchet"><b>Le +Bouchet</b></a>, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres +and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near <a href = +"#le_beage">Beage</a> (which see p. 85). After Montagnac the coach +arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the horses are +changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards +<a name = "pradelles" id = "pradelles"><b>Pradelles</b></a>, 3771 ft., +pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. from Le Puy and 5 m. +from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the +omnibus of the Cheval Blanc +<span class = "pagenum">89</span> +<a name = "page89" id = "page89"> </a> +<!-- png 125 --> +awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St. +Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see <a href = +"#map46">map, p. 46</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "pradelles_to_mayres" id = "pradelles_to_mayres"><b>Pradelles +to Mayres</b></a>, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but +a high and exposed road, passing <a href = "#peyrebelle">Peyrebelle</a> +(p. 95), La Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. +above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends +rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance +into Ardèche.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St. +Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and +12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "le_puy_to_langeac" id = +"le_puy_to_langeac"> +LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map46">Map, +p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to <a name = +"langeac_2" id = "langeac_2"><b>Langeac</b></a> by St. Georges d’Aurac +is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the +tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right +angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from +Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Espaly. Borne. Darsac.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Le Puy to Langeac</b>, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line +traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. +1 m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of <a name = "espaly" +id = "espaly"><b>Espaly</b></a>, and by the face of basaltic columns +rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in +whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite +side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la +Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues +d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of +volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260 +by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +8¾ m. from Puy is <a name = "borne" id = "borne"><b>Borne</b></a>, 2535 +ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms +a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. from this +station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train. +The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a +rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress +dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous) +leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive +view.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +13 m. W. from Le Puy is <a name = "darsac" id = +"darsac"><b>Darsac</b></a>, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small hamlet, +with a restaurant, the <b>station for Chaise-Dieu</b>, 13¾ m. N., +fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond +Chaise-Dieu.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Chaise-Dieu.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little +village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the +sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and +Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay +chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. the +high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at <a name = +"chaise_dieu" id = "chaise_dieu"><b>La Chaise-Dieu</b></a>, 3576 ft. +above the sea, pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord. +A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church +participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and +canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of +N. D. +<span class = "pagenum">90</span> +<a name = "page90" id = "page90"> </a> +<!-- png 126 --> +du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most +inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his +companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at +Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly +proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or +Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of +Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation +to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site +formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued +and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade +with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the +horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high, +attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac +to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The +gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under +the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the +cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides +remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and +traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain +slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads +itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the +aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The +church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two +columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular +projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little +depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is +separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved +cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras +tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the +mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands +folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table +of black marble.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is +the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with +artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait +of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure +expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young +and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects +and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated +mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold. +Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La +Chaise-Dieu.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "chaise_dieu_to_vichy" id = +"chaise_dieu_to_vichy"> +La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and +11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is <a name = +"arlanc" id = "arlanc"><b>Arlanc</b></a>, pop. 4500, <i>Inn:</i> +H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore, +<span class = "pagenum">91</span> +<a name = "page91" id = "page91"> </a> +<!-- png 127 --> +consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed +mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made +here.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of <a name = "ambert" id = +"ambert"><b>Ambert</b></a>, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by rail from Vichy; +whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez +mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15 m. from +Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a +hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent. +houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the +Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from Thiers, is +Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of +the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾ m. N. +from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#vichy">Vichy</a> see p. 358; <a class = "turin" href = +"turin.html#thiers">Thiers</a>, p. 367.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The next station west from Darsac by rail (see <a href = "#map46">map, +p. 46</a>) is <a name = "fix_st_geneys" id = +"fix_st_geneys"><b>Fix-St. Geneys</b></a>, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 +ft. above the sea, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> H. des Voyageurs, situated +on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with +firs. 2½ m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 +ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. farther is Rougeac, with a +castle 1923 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most westerly station on the line is <a name = "st_georges_daurac" +id = "st_georges_daurac"><b>St. Georges d’Aurac</b></a>, 1872 ft. above +the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy. +58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes +(see <a href = "#map27">map, p. 26</a>). Near the station is the +inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. +E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette. +5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on +a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the +Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, +bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station +of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from +St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is <a name = "langeac" id = +"langeac"><b>Langeac</b></a>, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and +127 m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. <i>Inns:</i> +H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on +the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast +plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the +town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (<a href += "#map46">Map, page 46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +15 m. S. from Langeac is <a name = "monistrol" id = +"monistrol"><b>Monistrol</b>-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop. +1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the +river. Coach by a picturesque road to <b>Le Puy</b>, 17 m. N.E. by +St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a +deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of +Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea. +10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old +church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of +Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and +Mont Bonzon. Coach from <a name = "monistrol_to_saugues" id = +"monistrol_to_saugues"><b>Monistrol to Saugues</b></a>, 6½ m. W., +3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful +valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument +<span class = "pagenum">92</span> +<a name = "page92" id = "page92"> </a> +<!-- png 128 --> +called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square +vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high +and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the +mortuary chapel at Valence (see <a href = "#page44">p. 44</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Pouzin. Privas.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">81</span> +<span class = "miles to">91</span> +<a name = "le_pouzin" id = "le_pouzin"><b>LE POUZIN</b></a>, pop. 3000, +<i>Inn:</i> H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the +Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle. +Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. <a name = "privas" id = +"privas"><b>Privas</b></a>, pop. 8000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix d’Or; Louvre. +On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 +ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the +Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of +narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade +called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of +the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the +Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the +plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis +XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal +Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded +by the brave Montbrun.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. +<i>Inn:</i> H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières +the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le +Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the +<a href = "#loire_source">Source of the Loire</a> and <a href = +"#mont_mezenc">Mont Mezenc</a> (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to +Aubenas, 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and <a href = "#map46">map +p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Rochemaure.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">98</span> +<span class = "miles to">74</span> +<a name = "rochemaure" id = "rochemaure"><b>ROCHEMAURE</b></a>, pop. +1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern +part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the +steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle. +There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented +commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the +curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms +of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented +wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial +manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a +needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep, +like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will +be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of +the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These +ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive +edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by +the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition +by order of Louis XIII.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">93</span> +<a name = "page93" id = "page93"> </a> +<!-- png 129 --> + +<p>A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more +than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top +of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic +columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Teil.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">95¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">76¼</span> +<a name = "le_teil" id = "le_teil"><b>LE TEIL</b></a>, pop. 3200, with +some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for <a href = +"#montelimart">Montelimart</a>, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the +Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line +between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, +17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, +a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The +Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps, +<a href = "#map27">pages 26</a>, <a href = "#map46">46</a>, and <a +href = "#map56">56</a>).</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aubenas. Vals.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vogue_to_mayres" id = +"vogue_to_mayres"> +Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is <a name = "aubenas" +id = "aubenas"><b>Aubignas</b></a> (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an +important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, +<i>Inn:</i> H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and +mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an +extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the +town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college, +the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre +of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, +a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown. +(Maps, pages 56 and 46.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits +passengers. <a name = "vals" id = "vals"><b>VALS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on +the Volane, famous for its <b>Mineral Waters</b>. <i>Hotels:</i> Des +Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens. +In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; +Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the +town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the +Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. +Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, +in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry +and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all +at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent +fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, +under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little +beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and +the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the +river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so +pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the +Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to +the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove +paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be +drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, + +<span class = "pagenum">94</span> +<a name = "page94" id = "page94"> </a> +<!-- png 130 --> +lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda, +and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Antraigues.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is +<a name = "antraigues" id = "antraigues"><b>Antraigues</b></a>, pop. +2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow +three impetuous mountain torrents—the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From +the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the +neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the <a name = "coupe_daizac" id = +"coupe_daizac"><b>Coupe d’Aizac</b></a>, covered with a beautiful +reddish lava. <i>Inns:</i> Brousse; Glaise.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "aubenas_to_langogne" id = +"aubenas_to_langogne"> +AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +(Maps, <a href = "#map56">pp. 56</a> and <a href = "#map46">46</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through +Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is <a name = +"neyrac_les_bains" id = "neyrac_les_bains"><b>Neyrac-les-Bains</b></a>, +the Nereisaqua of the Romans. <i>Inns:</i> H. des Bains; +H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, +and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger, +containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81° +Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place, +the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2 +or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m. +W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric, +is <a name = "thueyts" id = "thueyts"><b>Thueyts</b></a>, pop. 2600, +<i>Inn:</i> H. Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of +Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche +has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of +basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2 m. +down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of +arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of +the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very +little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants, +a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of +214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the +extremity of this wall of rock, is the <b>Echelle du Roi</b>, +a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft +or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a +good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1 +hour.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near +the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358 +ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mayres.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +5½ m. from Thueyts is <a name = "mayres" id = +"mayres"><b>Mayres</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inns:</i> France; Commerce. +1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft. +above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge +between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For +Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From +Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of +Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170 +ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is +La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and +<span class = "pagenum">95</span> +<a name = "page95" id = "page95"> </a> +<!-- png 131 --> +14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of <a name = "peyrebelle" id = +"peyrebelle"><b>Peyrebelle</b></a>, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25 +years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that +came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron, +pop. 1400.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the +snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is <a href = +"#pradelles">Pradelles</a>, 3771 ft., 16 m. from Le Puy by coach +and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages <a href = +"#map27">26</a>, <a href = "#map56">56</a> and <a href = +"#map46">46</a>).</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Prades. Jaujac.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "prades_etc" id = "prades_etc"> +Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat,<br> +St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +For the main loopline, see <a href = "#map56">map p. 56</a>; for the +rest, <a href = "#map46">map p. 46</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus +of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take +passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on +an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are +coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with +chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of +Jaujac, is <a name = "prades" id = "prades"><b>Prades</b></a>, pop. +1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Near the railway terminus is the village of <b>Pont-de-la-Baume</b>, +pop. 900, <i>Inns:</i> H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, +at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the +Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in +the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded +here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet, +Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is <a name = "jaujac" +id = "jaujac"><b>Jaujac</b></a>, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. +2600. <i>Inn:</i> Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which +nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is +lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge, +and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where +there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not +vertical. About ½ m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an +extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this +valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended +easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path +leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike +those of Vals.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montpezat.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence, +is <a name = "montpezat" id = "montpezat"><b>Montpezat</b></a>. The road +from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the +foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, +14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of +the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 +ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the +Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the +<span class = "pagenum">96</span> +<a name = "page96" id = "page96"> </a> +<!-- png 132 --> +suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best +specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from +the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is +about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Montpezat</b>-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above +the sea, rising from the Ardèche. <i>Inns:</i> Europe; Poste. This is +the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in +the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new +road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of +the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but +the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the +village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "montpezat_to_le_puy" id = +"montpezat_to_le_puy"> +MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage, +16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, +12 m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From +Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite +the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North +is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above +the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of +Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of +Usclades, 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road +ascends to <a href = "#le_beage">Le Beage</a>, 6¼ m. N. (see +p. 84).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sainte Eulalie.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by +Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. <a name = "ste_eulalie" id = +"ste_eulalie"><b>Sainte Eulalie</b></a>, pop. 650, <i>Inn:</i> Faure, in +a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from +the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in +the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source +of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch +bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the +side of the stream (see <a href = "#page84">p. 84</a>, and maps pp. +<a href = "#page46">46</a> and <a href = "#page85">85</a>).</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Ruoms. Largentière.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"> +Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.</h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +See <a href = "#map56">map, page 56</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of +Alais, is <a name = "ruoms" id = "ruoms"><b>Ruoms</b></a>. Station for +Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W., and for +Vallon, 6¼ m. S. <a name = "largentiere" id = +"largentiere"><b>Largentière</b></a>, pop. 3000. <i>Hotels:</i> Europe; +France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop. +5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and +glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with +important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated +in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous +mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the +Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300. +Joyeuse, pop. 2300. <i>Inns:</i> H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its +suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part +<span class = "pagenum">97</span> +<a name = "page97" id = "page97"> </a> +<!-- png 133 --> +of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de +Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an +Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a +considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pont d’Arc.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vallon_to_pont_darc" id = +"vallon_to_pont_darc"> +VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller">(<a href = "#map56">Map, p. 56</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is <a name = "vallon" id = +"vallon"><b>Vallon</b></a>, pop. 2500. <i>Inns:</i> *H. du Louvre; +Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the <a name = "pont_darc" id += "pont_darc"><b>Pont d’Arc</b></a> is 75 minutes distant by the stony +road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is +also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 +frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is +3 m. from the railway station of <a href = "#st_just">St. Just</a>, +on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). The +landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont, +2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing +down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche, +composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through +which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft. +high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick. +There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is +unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding +scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and +mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. +high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great +stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them +is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles, +honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are +better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other +scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears +upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, <a href = "#page54">page +54</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">102½</span> +<span class = "miles to">69½</span> +<a name = "viviers" id = "viviers"><b>VIVIERS</b></a>, pop. 3300. +<i>Inn:</i> Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road +parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill +behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W. +side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and +preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to +Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé, +pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows +through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east +side of the Rhône.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">109½</span> +<span class = "miles to">62½</span> +<a name = "bourg_st_andeol" id = "bourg_st_andeol"><b>BOURG-ST. +ANDEOL</b></a>, pop. 4500. <i>Hotels:</i> Luxembourg; Europe; their +omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (<a href = +"#page50">page 50</a>), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le +Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a church founded in +the +<span class = "pagenum">98</span> +<a name = "page98" id = "page98"> </a> +<!-- png 134 --> +11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards +from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de +Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About +20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the +sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">115</span> +<span class = "miles to">57</span> +<a name = "st_just" id = "st_just"><b>ST. JUST</b></a> and St. Marcel +station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different +directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop. +600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses +the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop. +450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen +from St. Martin.</p> + +<p>Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. +up the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price +depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists +of a tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into +spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, +slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and +certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should +undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels +are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pont-St. Esprit.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">119</span> +<span class = "miles to">53</span> +<a name = "pont_st_esprit" id = "pont_st_esprit"><b>PONT-ST. +ESPRIT</b></a>, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière, +on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière +<a href = "#page50">page 50</a>.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons +and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the +western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, +with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge +are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in +the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. +Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel +constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a +beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant +pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the +Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery. +Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. +At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30 +inmates. The drive is pleasant (see <a href = "#map56">map, +page 56</a>).</p> + +<p>Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m. +N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">99</span> +<a name = "page99" id = "page99"> </a> +<!-- png 135 --> + +<p>7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. +H. du Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach +to Uzès, 17 m. W.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">132½</span> +<span class = "miles to">39½</span> +<a name = "laudun" id = "laudun"><b>LAUDUN</b></a>, pop. 2200, about 2½ +m. west from the station, and 10 m. from Orange, is built on a hill +350 ft. high. The vineyards in the neighbourhood produce a good white +wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½ m. west, by Connaux, St. +Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and Mejannes; small and uninteresting +towns (see <a href = "#map27">map, p. 26</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Roquemaure. Pont-d’Avignon.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">137½</span> +<span class = "miles to">34½</span> +<a name = "roquemaure" id = "roquemaure"><b>ROQUEMAURE</b></a>, pop. +3100. <i>Inns:</i> H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at station. +Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the island of +Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is in the +neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public promenade with +large trees, the great embankment to protect the town from the invasions +of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of which the most +remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point of a great +rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the village. +Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the Rhône, has a +dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of Avignon, +died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good wine +is made.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">144¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">27¼</span> +<a name = "pont_avignon" id = "pont_avignon"><b>PONT-D’AVIGNON</b></a>, +station on the west side of the Rhône for <a href = +"#avignon">Avignon</a> (p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await +passengers. The omnibus between Avignon and Villeneuve passes the +station every hour. Tram every ¼ between the station and Avignon.</p> + +<p>7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, +at a considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is +Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the +ruins of a castle. (<a href = "#map66">Map, page 66</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>NÎMES</span> +<span class = "miles from">159¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">12¼</span> +<a name = "remoulins" id = "remoulins"><b>REMOULINS</b></a>, pop. 1400, +with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to Uzès, 12½ m. N.W. +On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is +Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge. +(For <a href = "#pont_du_gard">description</a> and <a href = +"#avignon_to_nimes">directions</a> see pp. 64 and 104, and <a href = +"#map66">map page 66</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Uzès.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "uzes" id = "uzes"><b>UZÈS</b></a>, pop. 5600, <i>Inn</i> +Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by picturesque calcareous rocks. From +the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and +having gone down the avenue ascend the double stair leading up to the +beautiful terrace, on which, to the left, stands the Cathedral, and to +the right, projecting from the +<span class = "pagenum">100</span> +<a name = "page100" id = "page100"> </a> +<!-- png 136 --> +balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which +Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in +the deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the +Roman aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a +square basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of +which five are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by +twin open arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled +roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of +the church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat +of the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the +most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with +turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge, +surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The +octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the +École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St. +Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret +of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir +(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the +Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and +Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le +Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs +d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour +de la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, +11th cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and +in front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of +the “Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is +a large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross +of copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair, +vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best +wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides +the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, +17 m. E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. +N. from the Pont d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sernhac-Lédenon.</span></p> + +<p>After Remoulins the train halts at the station <a name = +"sernhac_ledenon" id = "sernhac_ledenon"><b>Sernhac-Lédenon</b></a>. +<b>Lédenon</b>, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and +<b>Sernhac</b>, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from +Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer, +Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with a handsome modern church, and in the +cemetery the ruins of the chapel of St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from +railway.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">101</span> +<a name = "page101" id = "page101"> </a> +<!-- png 138 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nimes" id = "nimes"> +<span class = "headnote">Nîmes.</span></a></p> + +<!-- png 137 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 101</span> +<a name = "map101" id = "map101" href = "images/map101.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map101thumb.png" width = "469" height = "371" +alt = "plan of Nîmes" title = "NÎMES"></a></p> + + +<p>172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E. +from Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m. +N.W. from Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by +Clermont-Ferrand, is</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans">NÎMES,</h5> + +<p>population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. +A flight of steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the +station. At the foot of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty +comfortable room 2 frs., dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams +start from in front of the house. In the town are: On the Esplanade, the +H. Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a +garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9 to 12 frs. Fronting the +amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to 10 frs. Opposite the +Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the most conveniently +situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses await passengers at +the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. du Grand Cours, +between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph Office in the +Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des Calquières. +Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new church of +St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end of the B. +des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.</p> + +<p><i>Sights.</i>—The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the +Roman Baths. <i>Cab Stands</i> are found at the station, at the +Amphitheatre, and at the Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per +hour.</p> + +<p>A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the +Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble +colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the +Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the +pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with +its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and +the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nîmes: Amphitheatre.</span></p> + +<p>The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman <a name = "nimes_amphitheatre" +id = "nimes_amphitheatre"><b>Amphitheatre</b></a>, the most perfect +extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437 +ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building +are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches +being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an +attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained +the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the +upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being +roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching +<span class = "pagenum">102</span> +<a name = "page102" id = "page102"> </a> +<!-- png 139 --> +from side to side. There were four entrances, one facing each of the +cardinal points of the compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats +in 4 zones, capable of accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. +The lowest zone corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the +galleries. The present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., +opposite No. 8 Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is +under the fifth arch west. No description can express the sensation +experienced from contemplating this vast Roman structure from the +highest tier or from the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it +must be remembered that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent +step might have serious consequences. The date of the building is +uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured +to have been the founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, +the Castrum Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the +8th cent., till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died +in 715.</p> + +<p>On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, +with, on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including +the Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum, +containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the +neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other +pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of +John the Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a +Girl and a Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of +his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in +his coffin, by Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress +experimenting on a slave with the poison they were preparing for +Britannicus,” by Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by +Gérard Dow, Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van +den Welde, and Wouvermans.</p> + +<p>At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with +frescoes on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nîmes: La Maison Carrée. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p>Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them <a name = +"nimes_maison_carree" id = "nimes_maison_carree"><b>La Maison +Carrée</b></a>, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably +part of the Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending +east and west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed +to have been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a +platform, and is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 +Roman-Corinthian columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll +frieze, sculptured dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are +attached, +<span class = "pagenum">103</span> +<a name = "page103" id = "page103"> </a> +<!-- png 140 --> +excepting the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the +railing are mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.</p> + +<p>Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral <a name = +"nimes_cathedral" id = "nimes_cathedral"><b>St. Castor</b></a>, built in +the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The most +venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of stone. +A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends +under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by brackets with +acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the +interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior +frieze.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nîmes: Roman Baths. Tourmagne. Fort.</span></p> + +<p>N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases +and statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane +trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the +temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span> 24, of huge carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, +and reduced to its present state in 1577. The little of the ornamental +work that remains is very much mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected +from the troublesome winds of Nîmes, are the <a name = +"nimes_roman_baths" id = "nimes_roman_baths"><b>Roman Baths</b></a>, +about 12 ft. below the level of the gardens, the vaulting being +supported on small columns, over which rise open stone balustrades. +Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies them, as placid but +somewhat larger than the Fontaine of <a href = "#vaucluse">Vaucluse</a> +(p. 65).</p> + +<p>From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier +to an octagonal structure called the <a name = "nimes_tourmagne" id = +"nimes_tourmagne"><b>Tourmagne</b></a>, 90 ft. high, erected before the +Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was originally +filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in search of +treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in 1843. The view +from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.</p> + +<p>Eastward from the Tourmagne is the <a name = "nimes_fort" id = +"nimes_fort"><b>Fort</b></a>, built by Louis XIV., now the town prison. +On the western side of the fort are the remains of the reservoir, +<i>castellum divisorium</i>, which received the water brought by the +canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings +water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the +fort.</p> + +<p>In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. +high, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte +d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of +the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the +Rue Carrètérie. (See <a href = "#map101">plan</a>.)</p> + +<p>The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia +<span class = "pagenum">104</span> +<a name = "page104" id = "page104"> </a> +<!-- png 141 --> +Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the +reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of +Strabo the “<b>Jus Latii</b>,” and therefore was independent of the +Roman governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was +exported to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal +emporium in the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in +Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de +Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who +introduced tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis +Philippe, were born at Nîmes.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pont-du-Gard.</span></p> + +<p>13½ miles from Nîmes is the <a name = "pont_du_gard" id = +"pont_du_gard"><b>Pont-du-Gard</b></a>, built by the Romans in the reign +of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the +neighbourhood of <a href = "#uzes">Uzès</a> (page 99), brought the +waters of the Eure and Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which +only vestiges now remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks +of the river Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total +height above the bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are +formed of hewn stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; +but the mason work underneath the channel of the third or top story is +of rough stones cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The +first or lowest row consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, +except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven +arches of the same dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches +of 15 ft. span. A stair from the right bank of the river leads up +to the watercourse above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking +boldness of its design this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and +superiority over all the other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, +and the piers in proportion lighter, and had the same principle been +extended so as to have formed it of one single row from top to bottom, +it would have equalled in the skill and disposition of its materials the +more judicious and more elegant structures of modern times (see <a href += "#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a>, p. 77). Take ticket to +Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon, +take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another +ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins +station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under <a href = +"#avignon_to_nimes">Avignon</a>, p. 64).</p> + +<p>79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles"><b>Marseilles</b></a> (p. 111), passing +<a href = "#tarascon">Tarascon</a>, 17 m. (p. 66), and <a href += "#arles">Arles</a>, 25 m. (p. 68).</p> + + +<!-- png 142 --> +<span class = "pagenum">105</span> +<a name = "page105" id = "page105"> </a> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Valleraugue.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "nimes_to_millau" id = "nimes_to_millau"> +NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +See <a href = "#map27">Map, p. 26</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is <a name = "vigan" id = +"vigan"><b>Vigan</b></a>, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs., to Millau, +on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this +line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque. +27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800, +junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E. to +Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is +St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this +the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan, +on the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche, +omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. +farther is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron +mines. 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line +crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre +follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. <i>Inns:</i> +Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the +Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à +Clastercamp à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is +860 ft. above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with +terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to +nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved +streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the +post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the +neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty, +on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the +Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are +the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Valleraugue.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Coach daily to <a name = "valleraugue" id = +"valleraugue"><b>Valleraugue</b></a>, <i>Inn:</i> Aresque, 14 m. +N., in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded +valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron +mountains towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a +little higher, towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent +is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the +culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The +source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of +the Tarn to the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent +fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Larzac.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "le_vigan_to_millau" id = "le_vigan_to_millau"><b>Le Vigan to +Millau</b></a>, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the +coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines. +From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m., and Arre, +6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves by a +tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the +village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. <i>Inn:</i> the +Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of +7 m. the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, <i>Inn:</i> +H. du Nord, producing excellent +<span class = "pagenum">106</span> +<a name = "page106" id = "page106"> </a> +<!-- png 143 --> +pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern +side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and +mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other +side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is +St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, <i>Inn:</i> Commerce, 23 m. from +Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the +Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a poor +village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau. Shortly afterwards the +diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of <a name = "larzac" id = +"larzac"><b>Larzac</b></a>, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the +village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is +Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez.</p> + +<p class = "line"> </p> + +</div> <!-- end div itinerary --> + +<h3><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">THE RIVIERA.</a></h3> + + +</body> +</html> |