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diff --git a/old/files/turin.html b/old/files/turin.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..37731d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/files/turin.html @@ -0,0 +1,11807 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The South of France—East Half (The Alps and Index)</title> +<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + +<link rel = "stylesheet" type = "text/css" href = "francestyles.css"> +</head> + +<body> + +<div class = "mynote"> +<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the +text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover +popups</ins>.</p> + +<p class = "center"> +<a href = "main.html">Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps</a> +(<i>separate file</i>)<br> +<a href = "paris.html">Paris to Marseilles</a> (<i>separate +file</i>)<br> +<a href = "riviera.html">The Riviera</a> (<i>separate file</i>)<br> +<br> +Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_contents">Itineraries</a><br> +Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#part3_maps">Maps</a><br> +Italy and the Alps: <a href = "#paris_to_turin">Text</a><br> +<br> +<a href = "#index">General Index</a></p> + +</div> + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part3_contents" id = "part3_contents">ITINERARY</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 281–end)</span></h4> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_turin"><b>PARIS to TURIN</b></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page281">281</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"><span class = +"smallcaps">Aix-les-Bains to Geneva</span></a> by Annecy +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page286">286</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#modane_to_turin"><b>Modane to Turin</b></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Bussoleno to <a href = +"#susa">Susa</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page291">291</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Turin to <a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Pellice</a></b> by +Pinerolo +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page305">305</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><span class = +"smallcaps">Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la +Croix +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page306">306</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa +to Mont-Dauphin</span></a> by the Col d’Abriés +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#perosa_to_cesanne"><span class = "smallcaps">Perosa to +Cesanne</span></a> by the Col de Sestrières +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page307">307</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><span class = +"smallcaps">Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</span></a> by the Col de la +Traversette +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page308">308</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class = "smallcaps">Cuneo +to Barcelonnette</span></a> (<i>see</i> <span class = +"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#turin_to_florence"><b>TURIN to FLORENCE</b></a> by +Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page309">309</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"><span class = "smallcaps">St. +Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur</span></a> by the Little Saint Bernard +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page320">320</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_modane_lyons"><b>PARIS to MODANE</b></a> by +Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the +Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group +of the Ecrin mountains +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page322">322</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble</a> to +<a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page327">327</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble to Briançon</b></a> by +Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page328">328</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg +d’Oisans</a> to <a href = "#la_berarde">La Berarde</a></span>, at the +base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page329">329</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"><span class = +"smallcaps">Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux</span></a> by La Bessée and the Val +Louise +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a>, +<a href = "#page345">345</a></span></p> + +<p><a href = "#briancon_to_oulx"><span class = "smallcaps">Briançon to +Oulx</span></a> by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#grenoble_to_corps"><b>Grenoble to Corps</b></a> by La +Mure (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>). +From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (<a href = +"#page340">p. 340</a>). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to +N. D. de la Salette +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page333">333</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin</a> to +Allevard-les-Bains</span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page336">336</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#marseilles_to_grenoble"><b>MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE</b></a> +by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles +and Claix (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, +p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page338">338</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban</a> to +Digne</span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><span class = +"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by La Javie and Seyne (<a +href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><span class = +"smallcaps">Digne to Barcelonnette</span></a> by Draix, Colmars and +Allos +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page339">339</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b><a href = "#veynes">VEYNES</a> to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE</b> +station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French +end of several of the important passes between France and Italy +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page340">340</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#gap_to_barcelonnette"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to +Barcelonnette</span></a> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><span class = +"smallcaps">Barcelonnette to Cuneo</span></a> (<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page341">341</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#gap_to_grenoble"><span class = "smallcaps">Gap to +Grenoble</span></a> by Corps (<a href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page342">342</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><span class = +"smallcaps">Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo</span></a> (<a href = "#map304">map, +p. 304</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page344">344</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne"><span class = +"smallcaps">Paris to Lyons</span></a> by Saint Etienne (<a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page346">346</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_tarare"><span class = "smallcaps">Paris to +Lyons</span></a> by Tarare (<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page348">348</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#lyons_to_clermont"><span class = "smallcaps">Lyons to +Clermont-Ferrand</span></a> by Montbrison (<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page349">349</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"><span class = +"smallcaps">Paris to Marseilles</span></a> by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes +(see <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">map on fly-leaf</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page351">351</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the +Baths of <a href = +"#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault</a></span> by Souvigny and +Saint Menoux (<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, +p. 1</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page356">356</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#moulins">Moulins</a> to the +Baths of <a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy</a></span> by +Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (<a class = "paris" +href = "paris.html#page27">p. 27</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map1">map p. 1</a>) +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page357">357</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St. +Germain-des-Fossés</a> to <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page359">359</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#clermont_to_brive"><span class = +"smallcaps">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</span></a> by Laqueuille +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page376">376</a></span> +</p> + +<p><span class = "smallcaps"><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille</a> to +the Baths of <a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore and Bourboule</a></span> +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page377">377</a></span> +</p> + +<p><a href = "#mont_dore_to_issoire"><span class = "smallcaps">Mont-Dore +to Issoire</span></a> by the Baths of St. Nectaire +<span class = "page"><a href = "#page385">385</a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.</p> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + + +<div class = "toc"> + +<h4><a name = "part3_maps" id = "part3_maps">MAPS AND PLANS</a><br> +<span class = "smaller">(pages 281–end)</span></h4> + +<p> +<span class = "page smallroman">PAGE</span></p> + +<p><b>Bologna</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map316">316</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Mont Cenis railway</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map291"><ins class = "correction" title += "text reads ‘191’">291</ins></a></span> +</p> + +<p class = "notation"> +This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane +and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to +Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. +Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.</p> + +<p><b>Mont-Dore</b> and <b>Bourboule</b>, Map of environs +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map378">378</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>The French and Italian Waldensian valleys</b>, with the +mountain-passes between them +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map304">304</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Turin</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map293">293</a></span> +</p> + +<p><b>Vichy</b>, Plan of +<span class = "page"><a href = "#map359">359</a></span> +</p> + +</div> <!-- end div toc --> + +<div class = "itinerary"> + +<span class = "pagenum">281</span> +<a name = "page281" id = "page281"> </a> +<!-- png 335 --> + +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_turin" id = +"paris_to_turin"> +Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.</a></h4> + +<h5 class = "long"> +By <span class = "smallcaps">Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Bourg, +Ambérieux, Culoz, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, Modane</span>, and <span +class = "smallcaps">Mont Cenis</span>. The continuation of this line +southwards from Turin extends <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa by Alessandria</a> (page +279).</h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<b>Part First.</b>—<span class = "smallcaps">Paris to +Modane</span>, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. <b>Part +Second.</b>—<span class = "smallcaps">Modane to Turin</span>, 58½ +miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<i>Time-tables.</i>—In England, see under “London to Turin” in the +Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which +Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the +Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their +Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and +Chambery. For the whole route consult the <a href = +"main.html#map_flyleaf">Sketch Map on the fly-leaf</a>. For the +northern part, between Paris and Macon, see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map1">map, page 1</a>; and from Macon to Turin, <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, page 26</a>.</p> + + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane" id = +"paris_to_modane"> +<b>PART I.</b>—PARIS TO MODANE.</a></h5> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles to">431</span> +<b>PARIS.</b> In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de +Lyon Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café +Restaurant. A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good +restaurant also in the station. For the first 274 m. between Paris +and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates +from this one. At <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#montereau">Montereau</a>, 49½ m. from Paris +(p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At <a class += "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche</a> (p. 14) both +the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre</a> (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. +At <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a> +(p. 19) the Express halts 5 min. At <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#dijon">Dijon</a> (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#macon">Macon</a> (p. 26) they halt 5 +min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Marseilles line, and +goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the +church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line +traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. (See +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>; and +for description, Black’s <i>France</i>, North half<ins class = +"correction" title = ") missing">.)</ins> 5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the +line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives +at <a name = "amberieu" id = "amberieu"><b>Ambérieu</b></a>, +316¼ m. S.E. from Paris, and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At +Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, +pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura +mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32½ m. west. From +Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. through a mountainous +country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron +near its junction with the Rhône. Between Ambérieu and Culoz the rail +passes through the last ramifications of the Jura +<span class = "pagenum">282</span> +<a name = "page282" id = "page282"> </a> +<!-- png 336 --> +mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt. +Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart. +The view is admirable—on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes +of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends +to Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lagnieu. Virieu le Grand. Culoz.</span></p> + +<p>8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is <a name = +"lagnieu" id = "lagnieu"><b>Lagnieu</b></a>, pop. 3500, station for +<a name = "la_balme" id = "la_balme"><b>La Balme</b></a>, pop. 1000, +3 m. S.W., on south side of Rhône. There is a cave here with great +galleries and stalactites, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and +13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons +steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the +entrance into the grotto.</p> + +<p>From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, +after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild +and imposing. At Tenay, <i>Inn:</i> Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the +train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to</p> + +<p><a name = "virieu_le_grand" id = "virieu_le_grand"><b>Virieu le +Grand</b></a>, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with +loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; <i>Inns:</i> Rey; Camus, +with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris +and 19¼ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of +Cerveyrieu.</p> + +<p>347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N. +from Modane, is <a name = "culoz" id = "culoz"><b>Culoz</b></a>, on the +Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop. +1200. Near the station are the inns *H. Folliet; H. Mémon. +A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41 m. N.E. +is Geneva; see Black’s <i>North France</i>, and <a class = "paris" href += "paris.html#map27">map p. 26</a>. 4½ m. S. from Culoz and +10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. above the sea, on +the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by row-boat from Aix. +In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view of the lake, Pope +Celestin was born.</p> + +<p>Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to +3 m. wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by +the steep ridge of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the +<a name = "mont_chat" id = "mont_chat">Col du Mont Chat</a>, 2070 ft., and +immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302 +ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., after +a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the lake +and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the summits +of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain of Aix +(see <a href = "#aix_bains_other">page 285</a>). It is ascended from the +village of Mouxy in about 4 hrs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The +lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad, +carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">283</span> +<a name = "page283" id = "page283"> </a> +<!-- png 337 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aix-les-Bains. Hotels.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">362</span> +<span class = "miles to">69</span> +<a name = "aix_les_bains" id = "aix_les_bains"><b>AIX-LES-BAINS</b></a>, +850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The +Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending to the +railway station. First-class hotels—their pension is from 12 to 20 +frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On +each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the +Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then +follow the <a name = "aix_bains_hotels" id = +"aix_bains_hotels"><i>Hotels</i></a>: *Europe; *Venat, with large +garden; and opposite, at the end of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. +Second-class houses: in the parallel street, the R. Genève, behind +the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand; *Gaillard; in the Place +Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is the office +whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons steamboats, and +for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. de +l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in +the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain. +A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, +the H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above +second-class houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the +H. des Bergues.</p> + +<p>On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, +a really splendid first-class house. Below it is the +H. Beau-Site, also a new but a smaller first-class house.</p> + +<p>The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the +left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”</p> + +<p>Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, +behind the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aix-les-Bains: Cabs.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "aix_bains_cabs" id = "aix_bains_cabs"><i>Cabs or +Fiacres.</i></a>—One-horse cab—3 frs. for the first hour; +every succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse +cab—for first hour, 4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; +per day, 20 frs. Riding horses—two hours, 4 frs. +Donkeys—one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs.</p> + +<p>The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted +up for the external application of the water, very little being drunk. +Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind +the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½ +fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°, +114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime, +magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath +with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent., +with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the +arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de +Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome +<span class = "pagenum">284</span> +<a name = "page284" id = "page284"> </a> +<!-- png 338 --> +stone stair of fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round +columns, leads up to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On +the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens +into what is called the Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall +of coarse masonry, recently restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc +Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish church, and the park. The waters used for +drinking are the cold sulphur springs, situated a little way out of +town.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "aix_bains_springs" id = +"aix_bains_springs"> +<span class = "headnote">Aix-les-Bains: Springs. +Excursions.</span></a></p> + +<p>The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at <a name = "challes" +id = "challes"><b>Challes</b></a>, 900 ft. above the sea, and 45 min. +distant by omnibus from Chambery. <i>Hotels:</i> Château de Challes; +Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for indigestion and liver +complaints, but especially for laryngeal affections.</p> + +<p>Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral +water establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all +within a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with +bromine and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from +the town by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy +spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric +diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.</p> + +<p><a name = "aix_bains_excursions" id = +"aix_bains_excursions"><b>Excursions from +Aix-les-Bains.</b></a>—The steamer on certain days makes the tour +of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief is the +Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two men, +9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; +Châtillon, 14 frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry +more than six passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the +lake—one horse, 11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.</p> + +<p>The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in +1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft. +long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The +interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white +fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near +Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of +Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on +the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of +Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the +right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in +the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.</p> + +<p>About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of +the lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To +reach it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and +horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The +<span class = "pagenum">285</span> +<a name = "page285" id = "page285"> </a> +<!-- png 339 --> +fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the +village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which +rises the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Mont Chat</a> (see +p. 282).</p> + +<p><a name = "aix_bains_other" id = "aix_bains_other"><i>Other +Excursions.</i></a>—To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 +ft., good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. +the Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The +Rocher de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 +hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by +mule-path; there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 +minutes, 3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the +defile of the Combes and the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de +Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Grotto of Banges. Le Châtelard.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "banges" id = "banges"><b>Aix to the Grotto of +Banges</b></a>, <i>by Gresy and Cusy.</i>— Seat in car there and +back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty +waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to +an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on +a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On +the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of +St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular +obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de +Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in +between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de +Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance, +approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.</p> + +<p>This road may be continued to <a name = "le_chatelard" id = +"le_chatelard"><b>Le Châtelard</b></a>, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500 +ft. above the sea; <i>Inns:</i> Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This +is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m. +long and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and +surrounded by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the +manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants, +of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical +position, resembles <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le +Beage</a> (p. 84).</p> + +<p>The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which +separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the +Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W., +and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de +Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.</p> + +<p>At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., +whence a diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by +Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map27">map, p. 27</a>).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">286</span> +<a name = "page286" id = "page286"> </a> +<!-- png 340 --> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "aix_les_bains_to_geneva" id = +"aix_les_bains_to_geneva"> +Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is +<a name = "lovagny" id = "lovagny"><b>Lovagny</b></a>, the station to +alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about +10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a +bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and +tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same +nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery, +or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an average 72 ft. above the +torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical +cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. apart.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3½ m. farther by rail is</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "annecy" id = "annecy"><b>Annecy</b></a>, pop. 11,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head +of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the +steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the +Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily. +Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages of +Plot and La Roche; also to <a href = "#albertville">Albertville</a>, +28 m. N., on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page +320).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the +north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in +Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of +Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the +Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is +another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both +modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected +by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend, +inhabited adjoins this chapel.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar +in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale. +The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at +the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de +Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the +Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace, +with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the +Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by +Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at +Talloires in 1748.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the +sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which +the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. above the +lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a +comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east +from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of +his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small +square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his +<span class = "pagenum">287</span> +<a name = "page287" id = "page287"> </a> +<!-- png 341 --> +last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and +died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a +little farther south, above the village of Veyrier.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "leschaux" id = "leschaux"> +<span class = "headnote">Leschaux. Cruseilles</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the +birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the +hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the +right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south +extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into +the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for +Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this +neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148 +ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of +Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from Annecy, and +14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village. +The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt, +at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake. +(See map of Mt. Cenis, <a href = "#map291">p. 291</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny, +where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became +successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles, +and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille, +18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge, +212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the +torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +16½ m. from Geneva is <a name = "cruseilles" id = +"cruseilles"><b>Cruseilles</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the +sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586 +ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535 +ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chambery.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">370¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">60¼</span> +<a name = "chambery" id = "chambery"><b>CHAMBERY</b></a>, pop. 20,000, +and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving late should spend the +night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to Turin. +<i>Hotels.</i>—Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain. +France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe, +near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it +is the Temple Protestant.</p> + +<p><b>Chambery</b> is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. +The first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station +is the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du +Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de +Boigne. It consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned +with a statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de +Boigne is the <b>Château</b>, formerly the residence of the Dukes of +Savoy, built in 1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by +the road round from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. +Within the precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having +<span class = "pagenum">288</span> +<a name = "page288" id = "page288"> </a> +<!-- png 342 --> +attached to it one of the old massive round towers, ascended by a most +handsome staircase of 160 low broad steps to within a short distance of +the top, attained by 36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is +the entrance to the Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History +Museum is in the Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is +very pleasing, and overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite +the tower is the Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The +three tall windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is +covered with stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting +between the nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, +but on a blue ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was +built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chambery: Church of Lemenc. J. J. Rousseau.</span></p> + +<p>The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de +Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais +de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a +bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on +the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la +Visitation and the <a name = "chambery_church_lemenc" id = +"chambery_church_lemenc"><b>Church of Lemenc</b></a>. The upper church +of Lemenc is of the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is +of the 7th cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six +feet in diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the +upper Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint +Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago. +His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children. +In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of +Madame de Warrens.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "chambery_rousseau" id = +"chambery_rousseau"><b>Excursions.</b></a>—The house which Jean +Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395 +ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with +walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on +entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch, +opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each +other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room +was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room +above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. +From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., +ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View +not equal to that from the <a href = "#mont_chat">Dent du Chat</a> +(p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the +Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria +may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold +sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of <a href = "#challes">Challes</a> +(p. 284).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">289</span> +<a name = "page289" id = "page289"> </a> +<!-- png 343 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">376</span> +<span class = "miles to">55</span> +<a name = "les_marches_1" id = "les_marches_1"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a +straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image +of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the +Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial +landslip of Mt. Granier.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">378</span> +<span class = "miles to">53</span> +<a name = "montmelian_stn" id = "montmelian_stn"><b>MONTMÉLIAN</b></a>, +pop. 1200. <i>Inn:</i> Voyageurs. Junction with line to Grenoble, for +which change carriages (<a href = +"#marseilles_to_grenoble">p. 338</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Pierre d’Albigny. Aiguebelle.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">358¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">45¾</span> +<a name = "st_pierre_dalbigny" id = "st_pierre_dalbigny"><b>ST. PIERRE +D’ALBIGNY</b></a>, 971 ft. (<a href = "#map291">map, p. 291</a>), +pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its station. <i>Inns:</i> At station: +H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with +line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy, +28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges; +<i>Inn:</i> Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on +the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine +passes (see <a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">p. 321</a>). From St. +Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the +immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many +places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford +protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards, +orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from +these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel, +2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3 m. of La +Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in +terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and +arid.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">332</span> +<span class = "miles to">39</span> +<a name = "aiguebelle" id = "aiguebelle"><b>AIGUEBELLE</b></a>, pop. +1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles +Felix. The valley now begins to widen.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">409</span> +<span class = "miles to">22</span> +<a name = "la_chambre" id = "la_chambre"><b>LA CHAMBRE</b></a>, pop. +800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the +right, is the valley of the Glandon.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">414½</span> +<span class = "miles to">16½</span> +<a name = "st_jean_de_maurienne" id = +"st_jean_de_maurienne"><b>SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE</b></a>, pop. 3200. +<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in +the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some +beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, +and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous +mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">421</span> +<span class = "miles to">10</span> +<a name = "st_michel" id = "st_michel"><b>ST. MICHEL</b></a>, pop. 3000. +A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the +foot of high mountains. <i>Inn:</i> Poste, near the post office. From +St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz, +6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">290</span> +<a name = "page290" id = "page290"> </a> +<!-- png 344 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Modane.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">431</span> +<a name = "modane" id = "modane"><b>MODANE STATION</b></a>, 3445 ft. +above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is really part of the +village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train +passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at +station. Opposite station—<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel International, where +comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the +neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are +also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined +here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery +on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller +ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no +part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is +reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ +per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and +5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than +Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a +little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lans-le-Bourg. Les Tavernettes.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_susa" id = +"modane_to_susa"> +Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Modane a carriage-road leads over the <a name = "mont_cenis" id = +"mont_cenis"><b>Pass of Mont Cenis</b></a> to Susa, 40 m. distant +by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is +Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this +are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a +steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road +crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the +Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea, +at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a +curious belfry; 18 m. <a name = "lans_le_bourg" id = +"lans_le_bourg"><b>Lans-le-Bourg</b></a>, pop. 1500, consisting +principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the +base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is +commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge. +At the culminating point, 6882 ft. above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. +The road now descends. 13 m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is +<a name = "les_tavernettes" id = "les_tavernettes"><b>Les +Tavernettes</b></a>, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is +1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one +of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. from +Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the +great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069 +ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more +rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about +3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid +views and rich vegetation (<a href = "#susa">Susa</a>, see page +291).</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">MONT CENIS RAILWAY<br> +St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.<br> +modane to susa by langlebourg</span></p> + +<!-- png 345 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 291</span> +<a name = "map291" id = "map291" href = "images/map291.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map291thumb.png" width = "491" height = "374" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> +</div> + +<span class = "pagenum">291</span> +<a name = "page291" id = "page291"> </a> +<!-- png 346 --> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "modane_to_turin" id = +"modane_to_turin"> +<b>PART II.</b>—MODANE TO TURIN.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +See <a href = "#map291">Map of Mont Cenis Railway</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "miles to">58½</span> +<b>MODANE.</b> At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta +Italia Railway Company. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best +time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate,” +1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway +stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or Latrine, or +Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei +fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. Way out, +Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "miles from">5</span> +<span class = "miles to">53½</span> +<a name = "bardonnecchia" id = "bardonnecchia"><b>BARDONNECCHIA</b></a>, +4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in +the town the Hôtel de France. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile +country than that above Modane.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "miles from">12</span> +<span class = "miles to">46½</span> +<a name = "oulx" id = "oulx"><b>OULX</b></a>, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. +high. <i>Inn:</i> Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the station. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by +Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte +Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, +who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the +beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, <i>Hist. Nat.</i>, lib. iii. cap. +20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road +from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now <a href += "#embrun">Embrun</a>, on the Durance (see page 343).</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "miles from">21¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">36¾</span> +<a name = "chiomonte" id = "chiomonte"><b>CHIOMONTE</b></a>, 2526 ft. +Beyond are some charming views.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "miles from">25½</span> +<span class = "miles to">33</span> +<a name = "meana" id = "meana"><b>MEANA</b></a>, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 +ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods, +crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, +whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to <a name = "susa" id = +"susa"><b>Susa</b></a>, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. <i>Hotels:</i> France; +Soleil. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who +inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft. +above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch +erected about 8 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> in honour of +Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes +on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, +San Giusto, dates from the llth cent.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the +foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the +plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa, +founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially +repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government +intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path +leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of +S. Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<!-- png 348 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 293</span> +<a name = "map293" id = "map293" href = "images/map293.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map293thumb.png" width = "453" height = "382" +alt = "plan of Turin" title = "TURIN"></a> +</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">292</span> +<a name = "page292" id = "page292"> </a> +<!-- png 347 --> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "turin" id = "turin"> +TURIN,</a></h5> + +<p>pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, +and 490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the +tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the +Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, +that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen +speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of +reserve of Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the +Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite +residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of +S. Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in +1498. Francis I. so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire +reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well +paved, and pass through spacious squares ornamented with statues and +bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the +western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets +ramifying southwards from this.</p> + +<p><a name = "turin_hotels" id = +"turin_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. +In the same square, and less expensive, is the H. di Londra. This +piazza is in the neighbourhood of the principal sights, and is the +terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are: +the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14 +Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is +at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois +church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 +Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre; +and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme +(Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse; +H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et +Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po; +Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana +Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via +Lagrange.</p> + +<p><a name = "turin_cabs" id = "turin_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>—One +horse, from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> till midnight, the +course, 1 fr. First half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each +successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span>, 1¼ fr. From the central station to any part of +the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr. +additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a +cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway +carriage, 1 sou.</p> + +<p>Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams +<span class = "pagenum">293</span> +<a name = "page293" id = "page293"> </a> +<!-- png 349 --> +run from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond +the suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of +the steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams +no more than four may occupy one seat.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Stations.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "turin_stations" id = +"turin_stations"><i>Stations.</i></a>—The most important is the +<b>Central Station</b>, a well-situated and well-arranged and +spacious edifice. On a tablet on the departure side is an inscription to +the honour of George and Robert Stephenson. Parallel to the station is +the wide and handsome Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city +from east to west, having at the eastern end the Po and the Giardino +Pubblico, and at the western the model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, +the artillery barracks, and the cattle-market. In front of the station +is a bronze statue of Massimo d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who +died in 1866, one of those who helped to throw off the yoke of Rome. +Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza Carlo Felice, and the straight +street, the Via Roma, extending to the Piazza Castello, by the Piazza +S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze equestrian statue, +modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, +and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in 1580. The attitude is +rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the west end of the Piazza +dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello by the Via +Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of plan, at +the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza dello +Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in the +shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn +granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white +marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter +make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, +and Grandi.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Post Office. Booksellers.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "turin_post" id = "turin_post"><i>Post and telegraph +offices</i></a> are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the side of the +<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano</a> (p. 297). +Stamps are sold at all the tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the +P. Castello, and connected with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, +covered with glass, and bordered on both sides with well-stocked +shops.</p> + +<p><a name = "turin_booksellers" id = +"turin_booksellers"><i>Booksellers.</i></a>—For maps of Italy, +Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both +in the Via di Po.</p> + +<p>Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal +streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in +all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The +same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.</p> + +<p><a name = "turin_theatres" id = +"turin_theatres"><i>Theatres.</i></a>—See list on plan. A short +way east from the central +<span class = "pagenum">294</span> +<a name = "page294" id = "page294"> </a> +<!-- png 350 --> +station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in +1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio +Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue, +a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like +cupolas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Sights.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "turin_sights" id = +"turin_sights"><i>Sights.</i></a>—The museums and picture gallery +(Pinacoteca) in the “Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the +Piazza Carignano and another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. +Nearly opposite is the Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and +mineralogical collections. The white marble statue in front represents +the philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house +opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte +Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi +mori il 6 Giugno 1861.<ins class = "correction" +title = "close quote missing">” </ins>The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria +Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal +Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni. +A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All +the above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The +only one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side +street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram +from the Piazza Castello.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Palazzo dell’ Accademia. Museum of Antiquities.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_accademia" id = +"turin_pal_accademia"> +The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.</a></h5> + +<p>The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was +built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast +earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and +cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more +massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second +story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen +rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days +free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained +in two halls. <b>Hall 1.</b> Left. In the centre, against the wall, +under an inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the +gem of the collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, +Rameses II., 1388 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> On his +right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of +Amenophis II., 1565 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, and on +his left a small black basalt statue of Amenophis II., the god +Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting posture, representing the +Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At the head of this hall is +the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II., in whose reign the +exodus of the Israelites took place. From +<span class = "pagenum">295</span> +<a name = "page295" id = "page295"> </a> +<!-- png 351 --> +this a room ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman +statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc.</p> + +<p>Parallel to Hall 1 is <b>Hall 2</b>. At the head of this hall, in a +sitting posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 <span +class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, who was one of the most powerful of +the Pharaohs.</p> + +<p>Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in +three large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, +left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a +table covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 +<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A little farther down, in +the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula +Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. wide, inlaid +with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of Hadrian. +Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads to the +smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a colossal +bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily work the +oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found at +Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician terracotta +figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient iron +ornaments, lamps, etc.</p> + +<p>The <b>Centre Hall</b> contains idols, jewellery, amulets, +sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by +the Israelites.</p> + +<p>In the <b>Third Hall</b> are the Papyri, of which the most important +are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, <b>The Book +of the Dead</b>, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain +vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous +annals of <b>Manetho</b>, which contained a list of more than 300 kings +of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Picture Gallery.</span></p> + +<p>In the second story is the <a name = "turin_gallery" id = +"turin_gallery"><b>Picture Gallery</b></a>. All the paintings are +labelled. In <b>Room 1</b> are portraits of princes of the house of +Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. <b>Room 2.</b> In this +room are excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, +No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, +Descent from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. <b>Rooms 3</b> +and <b>4</b>. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin +painter, 90, a Landscape. <b>Room 5.</b> Italian paintings of the +14th, 15th, and 16th cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on +silk; Bronzino, 127 and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her +husband, Cosimo I. de Medici. <b>Room 6.</b> J. da Ponte (II +Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari (Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of +Sheba presenting +<span class = "pagenum">296</span> +<a name = "page296" id = "page296"> </a> +<!-- png 352 --> +gifts to Solomon; A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, +Musician; J. Robusti (Il Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. <b>Room +7.</b> Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +<b>Room 8.</b> Enamels and paintings on porcelain by Constantin of +Geneva. <b>Room 9.</b> A small room entirely filled with fruit and +flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 and 10 is a dark lobby, +hung also with pictures. <b>Room 10.</b> Continuation of the Italian +school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232, Portrait of +Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary +Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids; +G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. +Barbieri (Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next +room, Return of Prodigal Son. <b>Room 11.</b> A. Canale (Il +Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, +271, and 274, The Four Elements; S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; +275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna; +B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old Bridge across the +Po. <b>Room 12.</b> Flemish and German school: Acken (Bosch), 309, an +Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van des Weyden, +312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and Gentlemen; Van +Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of England; *The +Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of his apotheosis +of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. <b>Room 13.</b> Containing the +gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and +Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri +(Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven +Sorrows of the Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant +Church, the figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian +portrait of the Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, +Holy Family; D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus +giving up the Ghost; Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, +375, Virgin and child in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of +Lucretia; P. Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow; +H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. <b>Room 14.</b> Dutch and +German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in +Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection +of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; Teniers +(the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. <b>Room +15.</b> French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483, +Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. +Catalogues sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">297</span> +<a name = "page297" id = "page297"> </a> + +<!-- png 353 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Palazzo Carignano. Royal Armoury.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_pal_carignano" id = +"turin_pal_carignano"> +Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.</a></h5> + +<p>Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is +the Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured +brick; but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing +than those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the +façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the +words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and +spacious court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting +the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by +Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built +in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also +<a href = "#turin_stations">p. 293</a>.) In this palace, magnificently +housed, are the zoological and mineralogical collections. Open daily, +1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free.</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_armoury" id = "turin_armoury"> +Royal Armoury.</a></h5> + +<p>No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. +On other days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is +of great interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is +filled chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first +room is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo +Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in +battle. In the large hall are two rows of armed knights and +foot-soldiers. At the head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, +is an embossed oval shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a +fringe of massive gold thread. On five medallions are represented, in +<i>alto-relievo</i>, scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It +belongs to the school of Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the +latter half of the 16th cent., and was presented to the university of +Turin by the Princess Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the +relics are the sword worn by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the +saddle of Charles V., and some beautifully inlaid body-armour of +the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at the end of this hall opens into +the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing 30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient +coins and medals, including a complete series of those struck in the +State of Sardinia; and also 5000 medallions, seals and stamps. In this +same part is the Biblioteca del Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., +numerous autographs, engravings and drawings by the great masters. To +visit these special permission must be obtained. From the windows of the +armoury is a view of the palace-gardens. +<span class = "pagenum">298</span> +<a name = "page298" id = "page298"> </a> +<!-- png 354 --> +At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro Regio, considered +the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for 2500, and is open +only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "turin_royal_palace" id = +"turin_royal_palace"> +Turin: Royal Palace.</a></span> +In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a +plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza +Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance, +turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass +door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a +niche at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the +horse in marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two +flights of narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the +servants will be found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, +2 frs. After the guardroom succeeds a series of rooms with much +gilding, inlaid floors, and rich furniture. The pictures are all modern, +and of no great merit. The room called Maria Theresa’s contains some +fine china vases.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: The Cathedral.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_cathedral" id = +"turin_cathedral"> +The Cathedral.</a></h5> + +<p>Adjoining the western end of the palace is the <b>Cathedral San +Giovanni Battista</b>. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal +family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps +each, is the <b>Cappella del Sudario</b> (open till 9 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span>), a circular chapel, separated from the +church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in 1694, and is +encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi, +which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the statues and +the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and eight-limbed +stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns of the same +dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six arches +ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six smaller +arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is composed of +an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising from the +second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light in such +a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the appearance of +being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold and silver +lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it at the same +time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud (Sudario) +in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when he laid +Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble +monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy—Em. Filiberto (ob. +1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; +and Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. +<span class = "pagenum">299</span> +<a name = "page299" id = "page299"> </a> +<!-- png 355 --> +1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by +Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the lovely statue of Queen Maria +Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door +behind the altar communicates with the upper corridors of the palace. +Outside the palace gates is <a name = "turin_san_lorenzo" id = +"turin_san_lorenzo"><b>San Lorenzo</b></a>, designed by Guarini, and +finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but it is chiefly +distinguished for the boldness of its arches.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: The Castello. Museo Civico.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_castello" id = +"turin_castello"> +The Castello.</a></h5> + +<p>The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was +erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it +became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II., +Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of +whom it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat +of government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the +great hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, +and another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who +here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_museo_civico" id = +"turin_museo_civico"> +Museo Civico.</a></h5> + +<p>Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3, +1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. +of celebrated Piedmontese. <b>2.</b> Water-colours, representing +landscapes and historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a +solid oblong chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater +diameter, and 2 ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long +ends is a lion’s head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also +under a glass frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, +a vase, and two flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The +first was presented in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by +that of the United States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of +the Geneva arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this +institution by his widow. None of them display much art; as for the +English vase, it needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable +soup-tureen.</p> + +<p>The rooms from <b>4</b> to <b>11</b> contain modern oil-paintings, +some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble +statues; among the best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and +the Crucifixion of Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second +story.—Room <b>12</b>, Embroidery; <b>13</b>, Miniatures and +illustrated MSS.; <b>14</b>, Iron work; <b>15</b>, Carving in wood and +ivory—notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; <b>16</b>, Glass and +<span class = "pagenum">300</span> +<a name = "page300" id = "page300"> </a> +<!-- png 356 --> +majolica; <b>17</b>, Italian porcelain; <b>18</b>, Busts; <b>19</b>, +Small oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *<b>20</b>, Italian painted +glass from 1300; <b>21</b>, Egyptian pottery; <b>22</b>, Pottery and +stone age.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Via di Po. University. Madre di Dio.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_via_po" id = "turin_via_po"> +The Via di Po.</a></h5> + +<p>The finest of the streets is the <b>Via di Po</b>, which extends from +the Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio +Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares, +as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and +lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in +all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the +pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both +sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the +<a name = "turin_university" id = "turin_university"><b>University</b></a>, +built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by the +Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and directed +by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains +200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman bas-reliefs, +inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the Via di Po and +the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, +containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open +daily. Apply to the custodi.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "turin_piazza_vitt_em" id = +"turin_piazza_vitt_em"><b>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</b></a> is 394 yards +long and 121½ wide. In front, on the other side of the Po, is a +conspicuous church, the Gran <a name = "turin_madre_di_dio" id = +"turin_madre_di_dio"><b>Madre di Dio</b></a>, built in 1818, in the +style of the Pantheon at Rome, by Bansignori, to commemorate the return +of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin after the fall of Napoleon. +A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) is a Capuchin convent, +built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road up is very easy, and +the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately above the Madre di Dio +church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of +Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by one of the queens of +Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s +Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education of children +of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the +Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four +pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor +Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a +government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of +minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces, +are topographically arranged. The <b>Botanical Garden</b> belonging to +the university is also here.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">301</span> +<a name = "page301" id = "page301"> </a> +<!-- png 357 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: Monument to Cavour.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_monuments" id = +"turin_monuments"> +Monuments.</a></h5> + +<p>In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza +Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for +which he received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of +Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes +in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic. +Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the +words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See <a href = +"#page294">p. 294</a>.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for +bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S. Carlo, +with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see <a href = +"#page293">p. 293</a>). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is +the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di +Savoia (brother of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in +1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, +mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth +and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of +suffering.</p> + +<p>A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta +is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di +Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected +in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the +celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor +Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and +Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group +representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close +to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior +encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and +gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. +Filiberto, passing by on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the +Basilica. In S. Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the +altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: La Consolata. Cemetery.</span></p> + +<p>Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +<a name = "turin_la_consolata" id = "turin_la_consolata"><b>La +Consolata</b></a>, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three +churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a +miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining +walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances +effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious +Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria +Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit. +Emanuele, +<span class = "pagenum">302</span> +<a name = "page302" id = "page302"> </a> +<!-- png 358 --> +dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship +every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square +outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in +fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.</p> + +<p>In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72 +ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the +ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns +which contributed to the monument.</p> + +<p>Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the <a name = +"turin_cemetery" id = "turin_cemetery">cemetery</a> or Campo Santo of +Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth +visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.</p> + +<p>A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the +citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the +monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang +a mine at the cost of his own life.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Turin: La Superga.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_la_superga" id = +"turin_la_superga"> +La Superga.</a></h5> + +<p>Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the +time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half +an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, +the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram +runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by +the western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends +by the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent +commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and +opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, +the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga +station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious +restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, +for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is +probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the +main road to Turin.</p> + +<p>The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft. +above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was +commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to +fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the +French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the +duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.</p> + +<p>Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will +be +<span class = "pagenum">303</span> +<a name = "page303" id = "page303"> </a> +<!-- png 359 --> +found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first +hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes. +Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white +marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are +worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo +Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., +1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal +white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, +1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried.</p> + +<p>From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery +outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the +gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is +well seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the +church.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "turin_views" id = "turin_views"> +<span class = "headnote">Turin: Views. Lamprede. Wines.</span></a></p> + +<p>The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from +the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of +Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is +bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and +Mont Blanc on the other.</p> + +<p>Among the delicacies of Turin are the <a name = "turin_lamprede" id = +"turin_lamprede">lamprede</a>, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught +in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white +truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la Piedmontese” or “à +la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable +dishes. <a name = "turin_wines" id = "turin_wines">The vermouth of +Turin</a> is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to +table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the +Barolo, a dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, +a strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked +bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the +Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the +dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at +Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is +consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills.</p> + +<p>Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">p. 153</a>). <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Turin to Genoa</a>, +103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">Turin to +Savona</a>, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see +p. 183, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map27">map +p. 27</a>). <a href = "#turin_to_florence">Turin to Florence</a>, +291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, +Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#map199">map p. 199</a>).</p> + +<div class = "picture"> +<!-- png 361 --> +<p class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">THE WALDENSIAN VALLEYS<br> +and the Passes between France and Italy.</span></p> + +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 304</span> +[Northwest] <i>See <a href = "#map291">map, page 291</a>.</i><br> +[West] <i>For continuation of the French Waldensian Valleys see <a href += "#map326">map, page 326</a>.</i> +<a name = "map304" id = "map304" href = "images/map304.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map304thumb.png" width = "461" height = "395" +alt = "see caption"></a><br> +<i>For S. continuation see map, page 103.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<span class = "pagenum">304</span> +<a name = "page304" id = "page304"> </a> +<!-- png 360 --> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "waldenses" id = "waldenses"> +THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR<br> +THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +(See accompanying <a href = "#map304">Map</a>.)</p> + +<p>The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid +trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.</p> + +<p>The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼ +miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. +from Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a +steam tram runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, +the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram +station is near the railway station.</p> + +<p>Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S., +2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This +tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "steam_trams" id = "steam_trams">Italian steam +trams</a> run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads. +Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford +excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so +quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.</p> + +<p>Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail +from Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; <i>Inn:</i> Tré Limoni +d’Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the +other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill +rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On +the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví</a> (see +p. 184).</p> + +<p>The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys +of Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long +from W. to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the +isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000. +They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848 +procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were +confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread +themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year +to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories +have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx +of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which +up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a +larger population of Romanists.</p> + +<p>These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, +wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows +<span class = "pagenum">305</span> +<a name = "page305" id = "page305"> </a> +<!-- png 362 --> +of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, +apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded +mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only +high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between +the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625 +ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft., +a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ +Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "waldensian_doctrines" id = +"waldensian_doctrines"> +<span class = "headnote">Waldensian Doctrines and +Persecutions.</span></a></p> + +<p>The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side +of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the +French side (<a href = "#val_louise_2">pp. 344, 345</a>), and, as +there was constant communication between them, French became the common +language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a +part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then +almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced +by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted +confession by contrite prayer to God and the mention aloud of their sins +to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were +of two classes, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and +penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines +and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the +Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival +of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived +from “valle densa,” contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally +Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun +at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée +IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 +fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed +any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made, +property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they +were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among +the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Torre-Pèllice.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "torrepellice" id = +"torrepellice"><b>Torre-Pèllice</b></a>, pop. 5200, <i>Inn:</i> +H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and +its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by rail from Turin, +10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of +Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a +considerable town to the N. of the station. <i>Inn:</i> Albergo del +Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking +village, with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several +elementary Protestant schools.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">306</span> +<a name = "page306" id = "page306"> </a> +<!-- png 363 --> + +<p>Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley +enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the +Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for +girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph +office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the +Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and +dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many +Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made +the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.</p> + +<p>The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is +drunk in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of +the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, +4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and +schools. Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bobbio. Mirabouc. Col de la Croix.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin" id = +"torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin</b></a> +by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La +Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. walking. Up to <a name = +"bobbio" id = "bobbio"><b>Bobbio</b></a>, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ +hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, <i>Inns:</i> Camoscio, etc., +there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts +till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of +<a name = "mirabouc" id = "mirabouc"><b>Fort Mirabouc</b></a>. At Mirabouc, +4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house +station, 5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and +accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent +of the <a name = "col_croix" id = "col_croix">Col, 7576 ft.</a>, +17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a +splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level, +and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the +char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés, +and Guillestre. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a> and +Guillestre, see p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map +p. 304</a>.)</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pinerolo.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "pinerolo" id = "pinerolo"> +PINEROLO.</a></h5> + +<p>23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is +Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. <i>Inns:</i> *Couronne d’Or; Campana; +Cannon d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large +Piazza d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and +representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public +library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and +another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, +and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a +large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large +staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is +<span class = "pagenum">307</span> +<a name = "page307" id = "page307"> </a> +<!-- png 364 --> +the Italian Alpine Club. <i>Cabs</i>—the course, 1 fr.; the +hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1 fr.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Perosa. Col d’Abriés.</span></p> + +<p>Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to +Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam +tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. <a name = "perosa" id = +"perosa"><b>Perosa</b></a>, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, <i>Inn:</i> +H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction +with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop. +760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.</p> + +<p><a name = "perosa_to_mont_dauphin" id = +"perosa_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Perosa to Mont Dauphin.</b></a>—There +is a post-road up the Germanasca and down the Guil, an affluent of the +Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by Perrero and <a name = "col_abries" +id = "col_abries"><b>Abriés</b></a>. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from +Perosa and on the S. side of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from +Mont Dauphin. (For <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin</a>, see +p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop. +560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello. +From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and +passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the +Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the +Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from +Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to +Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba +separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and +continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés, +8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali, +and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs. +(For <a href = "#abries">Abriés</a> and <a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont +Dauphin</a>, see p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map, +p. 304</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Fenestrelle. Col de Sestrières.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "perosa_to_cesanne" id = "perosa_to_cesanne"><b>Perosa to +Cesanne</b></a>, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle, +Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is <a name = +"fenestrelle" id = "fenestrelle"><b>Fenestrelle</b></a>, pop. 1120, +<i>Inns:</i> Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest +Italian fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is +Pragelas, where the valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other +4½ m. is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the +<a name = "col_sestrieres" id = "col_sestrieres"><b>Col de +Sestrières</b></a>, a nearly level plain 2 m. long, commanding +a good view of Mont Albergian. The descent is by long windings to the +level of the Dora, which is crossed to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from +Sestrières” (Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p. 36). (For <a href = +"#briancon_to_oulx">Cesanne to Briançon</a> by Mont Genèvre, see under +Briançon, p. 333, and <a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>.)</p> + + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "saluzzo" id = "saluzzo"> +SALUZZO.</a></h5> + +<p><b>Saluzzo</b> is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam +tram from the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam +<span class = "pagenum">308</span> +<a name = "page308" id = "page308"> </a> +<!-- png 365 --> +tram, passing Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on +the Po, 14 m. W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della +Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., <i>Inn:</i> +Lion d’Or.</p> + +<p>The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and +the Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to +Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble +statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, +d. 1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, <i>Inns:</i> Corona Grossa; Gallo, +is a town of considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting +various places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "paesana" id = "paesana"> +<span class = "headnote">Paesana. Crissolo. Col de la +Traversette.</span></a></p> + +<p><a name = "saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin" id = +"saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"><b>Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin</b></a>, 65½ m. W. +by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take +the coach which starts in the evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., +with two fair inns, passing Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the +valley becomes very picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually +more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road +reaches the sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is +<a name = "crissolo" id = "crissolo"><b>Crissolo</b></a>, 8 m. from +Paesana, 4374 ft. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the +Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the +opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave, +Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly +after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases—the +<a name = "pian_fiorenza" id = "pian_fiorenza"><b>Pian Fiorenza</b></a>, +6034 ft., and the <a name = "pian_del_re" id = "pian_del_re"><b>Pian del +Ré</b></a>, 6625 ft., containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine +plants. A little to the S.W. of the Pian del Ré is the source of +the Po. The road to the <a name = "col_traversette" id = +"col_traversette"><b>Col de la Traversette</b></a> leads N.W. from the +Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the +year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. below the crest +and 9564 ft. above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, +pierced in 1480 by Ludovico II<ins class = "correction" +title = ". missing">. </ins>The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs. +ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by +the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is La +Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See <a href = "#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo">Mont +Dauphin to Saluzzo</a>, p. 344, and <a href = "#map304">map +p. 304</a>; also Ball’s <i>Alps</i>, p. 22.)</span></p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cuneo.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "cuneo" id = "cuneo"> +CUNEO.</a></h5> + +<p>54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is +<b>Cuneo</b>, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, <i>Inns:</i> H. Barra di Ferro; +Albergo di Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. +S.W.; also to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte, +Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier +village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_to_turin">Cuneo to Nice</a> by the +Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">309</span> +<a name = "page309" id = "page309"> </a> + +<!-- png 366 --> +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "turin_to_florence" id = +"turin_to_florence"> +Turin to Florence.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and +Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and +through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, +and Dover Railway, 3d.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles to">291</span> +<b>TURIN.</b> (For <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">Asti, and the route as far as +Alessandria</a>, see p. 280, and <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#map199">map p. 199</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">81</span> +<span class = "miles to">210</span> +<a name = "voghera" id = "voghera"><b>VOGHERA</b></a>, pop. 10,000, on +the Staffora. <i>Hotel:</i> H. Italia. Branch to Pavia, 17 m. +N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on +the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th June 1800, which +preceded that of Marengo by five days.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Piacenza. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">117</span> +<span class = "miles to">174</span> +<a name = "piacenza" id = "piacenza"><b>PIACENZA</b></a>, pop. 36,000, +on the Po. <i>Hotels:</i> S. Marco; Italia; Croce Bianca. +<i>Cabs</i>—the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For +the first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. +80 c.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ +Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander +Farnese and his son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of +S. Francesco, and on the other the Palazzo del Governo, and +opposite it the picturesque <b>Palazzo del Comune</b>, begun in 1281. +The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the +building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street, +the Strada Diritta, leads to the <a name = "piacenza_cathedral" id = +"piacenza_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a> (1122-1233), containing some +admirable paintings. In the interior the arches are round, but the ribs +of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d altar is a picture, by +A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the 4th a painting of +the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an altar-piece, Three +Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling frescoes by Agostino and +Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The Coronation of the Virgin is +by Procaccini. The <b>Cupola</b> is divided into eight compartments; six +of them were painted by Guercino, with figures of prophets and sybils; +the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below are four allegorical +paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt under the church rests +on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former cathedral) was commenced in +the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The curious vestibule and the +massive columns bearing the tower are relics of the earlier edifice. At +the W. end of the town is <b>Sa. Maria di Campagna</b>, famous for +paintings by Pordenone. On +<span class = "pagenum">310</span> +<a name = "page310" id = "page310"> </a> +<!-- png 367 --> +the left of the chief entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and +five Angels; in the 1st chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity +of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we +have on the left the “Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being +portraits of the Pordenone family, and a fine fresco also by him, +representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the +frescoes in the eight compartments of the cupola; those in the +pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly decorated church is +<i>S. Sisto</i> (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic atrium. +Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto.</p> + +<p>The <i>Palazzo Farnese</i> is a great, unfinished, building, begun in +1558 by Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, +now the Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of +Piacenza is the site of <i>Velleia</i>, a town which was +overwhelmed by a landslip in the 3d cent. Many interesting objects have +been obtained there; which have been deposited in the museum of Parma. +In the vicinity are emanations from the ground of carburetted hydrogen +gas, which takes fire on the application of a flame.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Parma. Museum.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">153</span> +<span class = "miles to">138</span> +<a name = "parma" id = "parma"><b>PARMA</b></a>, pop. 46,000, on the +Parma. <i>Hotels:</i> Albergo Centrale; Croce Bianca; Leone d’Oro. +Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered by the Romans 183 +<span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>, is a neat clean town of modern +appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the +edifices is the Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the <i>Palazzo +Farnese</i>, a large unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the +Piazza del Corte behind the Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a +collection of paintings belonging to the French school. In the Farnese +are the Museum of Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the +Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in +the time of Duke Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid +spectacles and grand public entertainments.</p> + +<p><a name = "parma_museum" id = "parma_museum"><i>The Museum of +Antiquities</i></a> embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman +altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia and Rome. +Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in 1st room. +In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the +“Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to +the support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria +Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the +same staircase is the <i>Library</i>, with 150,000 volumes, and some +thousands of MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of +one of which is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">311</span> +<a name = "page311" id = "page311"> </a> +<!-- png 368 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Parma: Picture-Gallery—Correggio.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "parma_gallery" id = "parma_gallery"><i>The +Pinacoteca</i></a> is on the same floor of the palace as the library, +and is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, +but is remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In +selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters +alphabetically to facilitate reference.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Annibal Caracci.</i>—Pietá. <i>Lodovico +Caracci.</i>—Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of +the Virgin (two large pictures). <i>Cima da Conegliano.</i>—Two +very good pictures. (<b>Correggio.</b>)—1. The Madonna della +Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna +della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. <i>The Madonna +with St. Jerome</i>, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright +daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden—this is +Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever +painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels +of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk +that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus +and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully +treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics +think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early +production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the +walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi +the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) <i>Albert +Durer.</i>—Man with a Skull. <i>Francesco +Francia.</i>—Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with +Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming). +<i>Garofalo.</i>—Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape +below. <i>Giovanni di San Giovanni.</i>—A Singing party. +<i>Murillo.</i>—St. Jerome. <i>Parmegianino.</i>—The +Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the +Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the +frame). <i>Fra Paola da Pistoia.</i>—Adoration of Magi. +<i>Pordenone.</i>—Portrait of a Man with an open book. +<i>Raffaello(?).</i>—Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St. +John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of +Raffaello). <i>Giuseppe Rosa.</i>—Landscape with Cattle. +<i>Lionello Spada.</i>—Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of +St. Catharine. <i>Spagnoletto.</i>—Twelve pictures of Saints. +<i>B. Schidone.</i>—The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; +Virgin, Child, and St. John. <i>Vandyck.</i>—Virgin and Child; +Portrait of an Old Lady. <i>Velasquez.</i>—Portrait of a Man in a +black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). <i>L. da +Vinci.</i>—Sketch of a Female Head. <i>Zuccarelli.</i>—River +Scene.</p> + +<p><i>The Ducal Garden</i>, open daily to the public, is on the other +side of the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called +the Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal +style; but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it +affords a pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called +Palazzo di Giardino. The <i>Botanic Gardens</i> are at the other side of +the town, +<span class = "pagenum">312</span> +<a name = "page312" id = "page312"> </a> +<!-- png 369 --> +near the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is +planted with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the +town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Parma: Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p>By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the <a name += "parma_cathedral" id = "parma_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, +a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and 14th +cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. In the +interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an +elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted +by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the +great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one +of Parmegianino. <i>The cupola</i> was painted by <i>Correggio</i> +(1526-30), with frescoes representing the <i>Assumption of the +Virgin</i>, but they are in a ruined state. Those on the vault of the +right transept were by a son of Correggio, while those on the left +transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the +right side of the church, at the foot of the choir-steps, is an +altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a poor bust of Petrarch, with +an inscription recording that he was archdeacon here. Beneath the choir +is a spacious crypt, supported by thirty-four marble columns. On the +walls of the sacristy are frescoes of the 14th century, and intarsias by +L. Biancho.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Parma: Baptistery. S. Giovanni.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "parma_baptistery" id = +"parma_baptistery"><i>Baptistery</i></a> is a lofty octagonal building +(1196-1281), with four deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with +bas-reliefs. The four tiers of open galleries with columns, and a fifth +tier of engaged arches, the pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring +of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most +remarkable buildings of its class in Italy. In the interior there are +two tiers of galleries, some rude sculpture, and a profusion of fresco +painting—old, but not of much value. At the middle is a great +font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place +where the priest could stand, protected from the water, whilst he +immersed the child. The font at which the Parmesans are now baptised is +at one side, ornamented with carvings, and supported by a marble lion. +<a name = "pparma_san_giovanni" id = "pparma_san_giovanni"><b>S. +Giovanni Evangelista</b></a> (1510), a church standing near the +cathedral, and much visited on account of the <i>frescoes painted by +Correggio</i> (1520-25) <i>in the cupola</i>; they represent the Vision +of St. John, and, though blackened and badly lighted, they are +fortunately in a better condition than those in the cathedral. The +figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists and the +Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory above. +Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of the +sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a +fresco of St. John. +<span class = "pagenum">313</span> +<a name = "page313" id = "page313"> </a> +<!-- png 370 --> +In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal entrance is a good +painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of +Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by +Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the +left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at +Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the +entrance are much-damaged <i>frescoes by Parmegianino</i> (four +subjects); and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ +with his Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the +adjoining <i>convent</i> (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of +two children by Correggio.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Parma: S. Paolo—Correggio.</span></p> + +<p>Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the <i>Madonna della +Steccata</i>, from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best +frescoes are by Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam +and Eve, and the Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over +the high altar a Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the +cupola. The wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good +Madonna in corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte +is the church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +<a name = "parma_san_paolo" id = "parma_san_paolo"><b>Convent of +S. Paolo</b></a>, now a school. In this small building are the best +preserved works of <a name = "parma_correggio" id = +"parma_correggio">Correggio</a>, painted for the abbess of the convent +on the walls and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is +Children, or Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of +a bower or piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most +charmingly portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is +painted over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller +figures in grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The +custodian is generally to be found in the picture-gallery.</p> + +<p>The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan, +Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used +in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is <a name = +"reggio_emilia" id = "reggio_emilia"><b>Reggio Emilia</b></a> (pop. +24,000). <i>Hotels:</i> Posta; Cavaletto. <i>Cabs</i>—80 c. the +course; 1½ fr. the hour. <i>Sights</i>—Cathedral; house of +Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His <i>Orlando Furioso</i> went +through sixteen editions in the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, +the birthplace of the great painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. +To the Castle of Canossa and back, 14 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Modena. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">185¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">105¾</span> +<a name = "modena" id = "modena"><b>MODENA</b></a>, pop. 31,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their omnibuses await the +trains. <i>Cabs</i>—one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr. 50 c. +the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the +hour.</p> + +<p>Modena (<i>Mutina</i>, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of +Modena, +<span class = "pagenum">314</span> +<a name = "page314" id = "page314"> </a> +<!-- png 371 --> +is a clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which +serve the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and +fertile. A canal connects the town with the Panaro, +a tributary of the Po, by which means water communication with the +Adriatic is obtained.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "modena_cathedral" id = +"modena_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, begun in 1099, is in the centre +of the city. Its exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The +principal façade is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and +three doorways. On the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, +with columns resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, +though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, +especially for the sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many +marble columns. At the entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and +in one corner life-size figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, +representing the Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, +which look as if they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and +the stone pulpit with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are +some curious old bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on +the left side of the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the +house of Este in the male line, died 1803. The <i>Campanile</i>, one of +the finest in Italy, 315 feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th +cents. It received the name of Ghirlandina from its vane being +ornamented with a bronze garland. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "modena_ducal_palace" id = +"modena_ducal_palace"> +Modena: Ducal Palace.</a></span> +At the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the <b>Ducal Palace</b>, +an immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls +in the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open +daily from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 +pictures, amongst which, though there are no <i>chefs d’œuvre</i>, are +many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, +but towards the end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, +including five Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at +Dresden); and the Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few +more of the best. In two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings +and sketches by the old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for +Tintoretto’s masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room +kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some +interesting cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, +another of amber, a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving +in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is +a “Presepio,” with numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of +silver.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "modena_library" id = +"modena_library"><i>Library</i></a>, on the same staircase as the +Pinacoteca, contains +<span class = "pagenum">315</span> +<a name = "page315" id = "page315"> </a> +<!-- png 372 --> +about 100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 +MSS. placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few +Roman and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals +struck at Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near +the gate of that name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a +block of stone obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 +feet below the surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval +tombs. In the church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by +Begarelli, of the Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this +artist’s works.</p> + +<p>The <i>Ducal Garden</i> is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which +is open to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bologna.</span></p> + +<!-- png 374 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 316</span> +<a name = "map316" id = "map316" href = "images/map316.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map316thumb.png" width = "471" height = "273" +alt = "plan of Bologna" title = "BOLOGNA"></a> +</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>TURIN</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>FLORENCE</span> +<span class = "miles from">208¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">82¾</span> +<a name = "bologna" id = "bologna"><b>BOLOGNA</b></a>, pop. 91,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; del Pellegrino; Tre +Re; Venezia; Commercio. <i>Restaurants:</i> Stelloni; Felsineo. +Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. <i>Cabs</i>—one horse, +the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway +station, without luggage, 1 fr.</p> + +<p>Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile +plain near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of +painting is called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico +Carracci (b. 1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale +(b. 1560, d. 1609) and Agostino, a man of erudition, who +furnished the general plan of the pictures. Their most distinguished +pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d. 1642), Domenichino +(b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G. +Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, +d. 1666), Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, +d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b. 1628, d. 1719); +<span class = "headnote float"> +Bologna: Picture-Gallery.</span> +beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the various +churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the “<a name = +"bologna_accademia" id = "bologna_accademia"><i>Accademia delle Belle +Arti</i></a>,” situated at the north-east end of the town, near the +Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of the first +floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the artists, and +is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. Cecilia, by +Raphael.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The other best works are:—12. <i>Guercino</i>.—St. William; +13, St. Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. +26. <i>Bugiardini</i>.—Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. <i>Agostino +Caracci</i>.—Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest +paintings; 35. Assumption. 36. <i>Annibale Caracci</i>.—Virgin and +Child, with Angels and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. +<i>Lodovico Caracci</i>.—Assumption; +<span class = "pagenum">316</span> +<a name = "page316" id = "page316"> </a> +<!-- png 373 --> +42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the Virgin and Child; 43. +Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. St. John the Baptist; +47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. <i>M. +Desubleo</i>.—Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75. +<i>Lavinia Fontana</i>.—St. Francis de Paul. 78. <i>Fr. +Francia</i>.—Virgin and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. +Annunciation; 80. Virgin and Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are +several other unnumbered pictures by this master on frames. 84. +<i>Giacomo Francia</i>.—Virgin and Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. +89, 90. <i>Innocenzio da Imola</i> (an imitator of +Raffaello).—Virgin and Saints. 122. <i>Nicola da +Cremona</i>—Descent from the Cross.. 134. +<i>Guido</i>.—Madonna with the Protectors of Bologna; 135. +Massacre of the Innocents; 136. Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s +Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried +in processions); 139. Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. +152. <i>Raphael</i>.—<span class = "smallcaps">St. Cecilia</span>, +with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the instruments +of secular music lie broken on the ground). This celebrated composition, +painted in 1515, is well known from copies and engravings. 175. +<i>Elisabetta Sirani</i>.—St. Anthony of Padua; 176. Madonna. 181. +<i>L. Spada</i>.—Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183. +<i>Tiarini</i>.—St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. +<i>Perugino</i>.—Virgin and Saints. 204. <i>Timoteo delle +Vite</i>.—Magdalene. 206. <i>Domenichino</i>.—Martyrdom of +St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of +Verona (the same subject as that treated by Titian in a picture lately +burnt at Venice). 212. <i>Unknown</i>.—Sleeping Child. 291. +<i>Desubleo</i>.—St. John the Baptist. 292. <i>Innocenzio da +Imola</i>.—Virgin and Saints. 294. +<i>Bugiardini</i>.—Madonna. 360. <i>Aluno</i> (<i>Nicolo da +Foligno</i>).—Virgin and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius +IX.)</p> + +<p>In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour +(<i>Oploteca</i>), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures. +A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bologna_university" id = +"bologna_university"> +<span class = "headnote">Bologna: University. S. Giacomo.</span></a></p> + +<p>Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430 +students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous, +have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism, +Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe +Mezzofanti (d. 1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two +languages. From the tower is a good view of the town. Attached to the +University is a Museum of Antiquities and a Library. The Geological +Museum is in a separate building. From the University, walking towards +the leaning towers, we pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see +plan), the oratory of St. Cecilia, the church of <a name = +"bologna_san_giacomo" id = +"bologna_san_giacomo"><b>S. Giacomo</b></a>, and (14) the Palazzo +Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind +of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.</p> + +<p><i>S. Giacomo Maggiore</i> was built in 1267, but subsequently +restored. In the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, +the Virgin +<span class = "pagenum">317</span> +<a name = "page317" id = "page317"> </a> +<!-- png 375 --> +on a Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in +the 8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, +three pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino +Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the +end of the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, +with Francesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna,” the lunette above +by Giacomo Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of +the church, contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s +Presentation in the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bologna: The Two Towers.</span></p> + +<p>In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia +and St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. +During the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the +commencement of the Strada Donato are the <a name = "bologna_towers" id += "bologna_towers"><b>Two Towers</b></a> (28 in plan), seen from a great +distance. The taller, the <i>Torre degli Asinelli</i>, commenced in +1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and ascended by +a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence there is +the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in 1110, is +139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, the +Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the <i>Piazza Vittorio Emanuele</i>, with, +on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo +del’ Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal. +Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various +buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned +with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bologna: S. Petronio.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "bologna_san_petronio" id = "bologna_san_petronio"><b>S. +Petronio</b></a>, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, +and in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are +remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In +the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th +chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s +grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows +are said to be from M. Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel, +a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides, +attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), +who was at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile +is over this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. +On the floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in +1652. In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in +the 7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, +by Tiarini. At the southern end of the church is (29 in +<span class = "pagenum">318</span> +<a name = "page318" id = "page318"> </a> +<!-- png 376 --> +plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, in the building called the Archiginnasio +Antico, originally the University, before it was removed to its present +edifice. Besides the Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a +valuable Museum of Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and +S. Stefano are (17) the <a name = "bologna_pal_mercanzia" id = +"bologna_pal_mercanzia"><i>Pal. della Mercanzia</i></a>, the Chamber of +Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the +Casino. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_san_stefano" id = +"bologna_san_stefano"> +Bologna: Santo Stefano.</a></span> +<b>Santo Stefano</b> is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and +courts, on the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the +Church of the Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great +altar. In the 1st chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the +2d on the left St. Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small +chapel into the circular chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the +tomb of St. Petronius, with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, +considered to have healing virtues. This building is thought to have +been formerly the baptistery of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, +the principal chapel), dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small +court, called the Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that +at Jerusalem, we gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which +contains four marble columns said to have belonged to the temple of +Isis, and some pictures by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural +paintings in the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in +the subterranean chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown +which is said to afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After +visiting a cloister, where the columns show much variety of form, we +have made the complete tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, +which are of great interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano +in the Strada Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see +plan), 2, S. Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the +celebrated composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side +is the church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for +its collection of pictures. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Bologna: San Bartolommeo.<br> +Palazzo Zampieri. San Domenico.</span> +<a name = "bologna_san_bartolommeo" id = +"bologna_san_bartolommeo"><i>San Bartolommeo</i></a>, built in 1653, has +some fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an +“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by +Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by +Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned +from London in 1859. <a name = "bologna_pal_zampieri" id = +"bologna_pal_zampieri"><i>Palazzo Zampieri</i></a> (admission, ½ fr.), +although deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable +frescoes by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of +<a name = "bologna_ai_servi" id = "bologna_ai_servi"><i>Ai +Servi</i></a>, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In +the 2d chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th, +a St. Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by +Inno da +<span class = "pagenum">319</span> +<a name = "page319" id = "page319"> </a> +<!-- png 377 --> +Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of +<a name = "bologna_san_domenico" id = "bologna_san_domenico"><b>S. +Domenico</b></a>, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and +died. The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th. +Interior—2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti. +Right of south transept—the splendidly decorated chapel of <i>St. +Dominic</i>, with his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. +di Pisa. The garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. +The kneeling angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the +sarcophagus, were by Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, +with its bas-reliefs illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added +until 1532, a work of Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of +the chapel is a fresco by Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic. +The painting of the Saint burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is +by L. Spada; that of the Saint recalling a Child to Life is by +Tiarini. In a chapel on the right side of the high altar is the Marriage +of Saint Catharine, by Filippino Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the +high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In the left transept should be noticed the +tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on the wall a portrait of St. Thomas +Aquinas, considered here an accurate likeness, though painted 100 years +after the death of the saint. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "bologna_guido" id = +"bologna_guido"> +Bologna: Guido’s Tomb.</a></span> +Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel +of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of +Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his +favourite lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the +Caracci, executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the +reredos of the altar in this chapel.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bologna: San Pietro.</span></p> + +<p>Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is <a name = +"bologna_san_pietro" id = +"bologna_san_pietro"><b>S. Pietro</b></a>, rebuilt in 1605, +containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last +painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it. +Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st +chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine +Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In +the 1st chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in +the 5th chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to +Perugino; in the next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the +chapel next the entrance, Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old +monuments in the cloisters. East from the leaning-towers is +S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent., and lately restored. At +the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by Tiarini; in a large +chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful landscape, by +F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the chapel on the +left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">320</span> +<a name = "page320" id = "page320"> </a> + +<!-- png 378 --> +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bologna_environs" id = "bologna_environs"> +ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.</a></h5> + +<p>Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the <a name = +"bologna_annunziata" id = "bologna_annunziata"><b>Annunziata</b></a>. In +the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by +L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo +Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in +the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Madonna di S. Luca. The Certosa.</span></p> + +<p>Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +<a name = "madonna_san_luca" id = "madonna_san_luca"><b>Madonna di +S. Luca</b></a>, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. +It is approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond +the gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. +This portico was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was +finished. The church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed +to have been painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed +from the church. Outside the same gate is the <a name = +"bologna_certosa" id = "bologna_certosa"><b>Certosa</b></a>, formerly a +Carthusian convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, +and the chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom +attached to each.</p> + +<p>269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is <a class = "riviera" href += "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja</a> (see p. 231), and 291 m. +from Turin is <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence">Florence</a> (see p. 233).</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"> +<a name = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur" id = "st_pierre_to_courmayeur"> +St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the<br> +Little St. Bernard.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +(74 m. N.E. <a href = "#map291">See Map, page 290</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span> +<span class = "miles to">74</span> +<b>ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY </b>(see <a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">p. +289</a>), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and 45½ m. N.W. from +Modane.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span> +<span class = "miles from">14</span> +<span class = "miles to">60</span> +<a name = "albertville" id = "albertville"><b>ALBERTVILLE</b></a>, pop. +5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i> Million; +Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and Annecy, +22 m. N.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">22</span> +<span class = "miles to">52</span> +<a name = "la_roche_cevins" id = "la_roche_cevins"><b>LA ROCHE +CEVINS</b></a>, pop. 1000. <i>Inns:</i> Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden +and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. +beyond is the defile Pas de Briançon.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span> +<span class = "miles from">31</span> +<span class = "miles to">43</span> +<a name = "moutiers" id = "moutiers"><b>MOUTIERS</b></a>, pop. 2100, and +600 ft. above the sea-level, on the confluence of the Doron with the +Isère. <i>Inns:</i> Couronne; Courriers. One mile from the town is the +Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200 ft. At the base are the salt +springs, utilised both +<span class = "pagenum">321</span> +<a name = "page321" id = "page321"> </a> +<!-- png 379 --> +by salt-works and a bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road +extends up a narrow and picturesque defile, following the course of the +Isère, past St. Marcel, pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock +called the Detroit du Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where +the valley is only 145 ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with +the village of Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, +8375 ft., commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of +Villette, pop. 500, we reach</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Aime. Seez.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span> +<span class = "miles from">41</span> +<span class = "miles to">33</span> +<a name = "aime" id = "aime"><b>AIME</b></a>, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. +above the sea-level. <i>Inn:</i> Petit St. Bernard. This, the “Forum +Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of extensive Roman fortifications, +and a very ancient church called St. Martin, built of stones from Roman +buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre, pop. 1100, on the Isere, where +the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass of the Little St. Bernard comes +into view.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">50</span> +<span class = "miles to">24</span> +<a name = "bourg_st_maurice" id = "bourg_st_maurice"><b>BOURG ST. +MAURICE</b></a>, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. <i>Inns:</i> +Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the +confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">52</span> +<span class = "miles to">22</span> +<a name = "seez" id = "seez"><b>SEEZ</b></a>, the ancient Sextum, a +pretty village between six mountains, pop. 2600, and 2985 ft. above the +sea-level. From Seez the road passes the village of Villard-Dessus, and +then crosses the Recluse by a lofty bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, +called the Roche Blanche, supposed to be the place noticed by Polybius, +where Hannibal posted himself to protect his cavalry and beasts of +burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain; the last inhabited village +during the winter. From St. Germain the ascent is easy to the</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span> +<span class = "miles from">58½</span> +<span class = "miles to">15½</span> +<a name = "hospice" id = "hospice"><b>HOSPICE</b></a>, 7077 ft., founded +by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy plain 3 m. long, and about a +mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated by the Colonne de Joux, +Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino marble. From the Hospice, +Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended. About 300 paces from the +column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a circle of large stones +lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to have held a council of +war, 218 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> A few miles below +are Cantine des Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, +a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the sea-level, 9 m. from +Courmayeur.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pré St. Didier.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>ST. PIERRE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>COURMAYEUR</span> +<span class = "miles from">70</span> +<span class = "miles to">4</span> +<a name = "pre_st_didier" id = "pre_st_didier"><b>PRÉ ST. +DIDIER</b></a>, pop. 1300, on the Doire. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Pavilion. +Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See <a href = "#map291">map, +p. 290</a>.)</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">322</span> +<a name = "page322" id = "page322"> </a> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">74</span> +<a name = "courmayeur" id = "courmayeur"><b>COURMAYEUR</b></a>, 4211 +ft., the highest considerable village in the valley of Aosta. +<i>Inns:</i> Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach +leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs. +Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every +summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and +for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters, +which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are +sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable +circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in +the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur—the road to +Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du +Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St. +Bernard.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_modane_lyons" id = +"paris_to_modane_lyons"> +Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and +Modane to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the +Baths of Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for +Grenoble, which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux +and the other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places +are Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.</p> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +(<a href = "#map304">Map, page 304</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles to">476</span> +<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à +Lyon, where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons +follow pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">318</span> +<span class = "miles to">158</span> +<b>LYONS.</b> Perrache station. (See <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons">p. 29</a>.)<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">325½</span> +<span class = "miles to">150½</span> +<a name = "st_priest" id = "st_priest"><b>ST. PRIEST</b></a>, pop. 2800. +In the old castle here Charles VII. confined his son Louis XI., then the +Dauphin.</p> + +<!-- png 380 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourgoin. Virieu.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">344</span> +<span class = "miles to">132</span> +<a name = "bourgoin" id = "bourgoin"><b>BOURGOIN</b></a>, pop. 5200. +<i>Inns:</i> Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres of bog, producing +large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La Tour-du-Pin, pop. +3200. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. On the Bourbre.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">358</span> +<span class = "miles to">118</span> +<a name = "st_andre_le_gaz" id = "st_andre_le_gaz"><b>ST. +ANDRE-LE-GAZ</b></a>. A coach at this station awaits passengers for +Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse +may be visited.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">363</span> +<span class = "miles to">113</span> +<a name = "virieu" id = "virieu"><b>VIRIEU</b></a>, pop. 2000. With a +large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in good preservation, containing +tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">323</span> +<a name = "page323" id = "page323"> </a> +<!-- png 381 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Chabons. Rives. Voiron.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">368</span> +<span class = "miles to">108</span> +<a name = "chabons" id = "chabons"><b>CHABONS</b></a>, pop. 2000. 5 m. +distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft. deep, surrounded by +wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end of the lake is +Paladru, pop. 1000.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">371</span> +<span class = "miles to">105</span> +<a name = "rives" id = "rives"><b>RIVES</b></a>, pop. 2900. <i>Inn:</i> +Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station, on the Fure. It has +some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well as some considerable +forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants employ themselves in +the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The parish church was built +in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the castle of Châteaubourg, +destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from Rives to St. Rambert, +35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see page 43).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">378</span> +<span class = "miles to">98</span> +<a name = "voiron" id = "voiron"><b>VOIRON</b></a>, 939 ft., pop. +12,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches and gigs await +passengers for the <a name = "grande_chartreuse" id = +"grande_chartreuse"><b>Grande Chartreuse</b></a>, 15 m. distant by the +village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and +6 from the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy +town on the river Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth +manufactories. Here the monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large +premises for the sale of their famous cordials, which they distil, not +in the monastery itself, but in a large building a little beyond St. +Laurent. The road from Voiron to the Grande Chartreuse joins the road +from Voreppe just before reaching the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, +distant from both stations 9 m., 1344 ft., pop. 2000. <i>Inns:</i> +Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we pass on our right the +distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a narrow gorge, among fine +woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, consisting of an immense +square building, garnished with pavilions, situated on a narrow plateau +3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base of the Grand Som, which towers +3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from this place in about 3 hrs. This +monastery, the head establishment of the Carthusian friars, was founded +by St. Bruno, the originator of the order, in 1084. At first it +consisted only of a small chapel, with six poor cells, the habitations +of St. Bruno and his followers, built in what was then an almost +inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.</p> + +<p>The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided +with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small +garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being +occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the +handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple +vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. +<span class = "pagenum">324</span> +<a name = "page324" id = "page324"> </a> +<!-- png 382 --> +walk in the surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and +on feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. +Animal food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> they attend mass, excepting on Sundays, when +the hour is 8 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> Vespers are said at +4 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, and matins at a quarter to 12 +midnight. Visitors who wish to see the monks should endeavour to be at +the chapel-door at any of these hours. For gentlemen guests there is +ample accommodation in the convent, clean beds, three large +dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent water. The men-servants, +of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story; the wives, however, of +these servants, not being allowed to enter the convent, dwell in a house +a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in this house also that ladies +who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no female is allowed to enter the +monastery.</p> + +<p>Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they +distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at +Voiron, at the following prices:—Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the +litre bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche, +4 frs.</p> + +<p>From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in +about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before +commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St. +Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the +top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S., +5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per +day.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Moirans. Voreppe. Grenoble.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">381½</span> +<span class = "miles to">94½</span> +<a name = "moirans" id = "moirans"><b>MOIRANS</b></a>, pop. 1000. +<i>Inn:</i> H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to Valence, +50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, <a name = "st_marcellin" id += "st_marcellin"><b>St. Marcellin</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> +Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to the +picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S., +whence another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. +(For <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die</a>, see +p. 47.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">385</span> +<span class = "miles to">91</span> +<a name = "voreppe" id = "voreppe"><b>VOREPPE</b></a>, pop. 3000. +<i>Inn:</i> Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse may alight here +also, from which it is 15 m. distant.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">394</span> +<span class = "miles to">82</span> +<a name = "grenoble" id = "grenoble"><b>GRENOBLE</b></a>, pop. 46,000, +and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated on the Isère, by far the +greater part being on the left bank, while on the other there is a mere +strip hemmed in between the river and the steep declivities of the +Bastile. <i>Hotels:</i> in the Place Grenette, the *Monnet; Europe; the +two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in the Rue Montorge, is +the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial travellers. +Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from the 7th +to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room +<span class = "pagenum">325</span> +<a name = "page325" id = "page325"> </a> +<!-- png 383 --> +No. 9. Among the cheaper second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; +Marseille; *Bayard; all near each other and to the Place Grenette. Of +the small houses at the station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple +Protestant at the W. end of the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions +for a very small sum may be taken to all the important places in the +neighbourhood by means of the rail and the diligences and omnibuses +which start from the Place Grenette. On the road to the railway station +is a large and handsome hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. +Hugues. A little way down, on the other side of the river, is the +Esplanade, a very large oblong square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded +by trees, much frequented on feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de +Ville, off the Place Grenette.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_coaches" id = +"grenoble_coaches"> +<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Coaches. Bastile.</span></a></p> + +<p>From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey, +Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and +Gières; from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., +fare 5 frs.; also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs., 7 +hrs.</p> + +<p>The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit +of the <a name = "grenoble_bastile" id = +"grenoble_bastile"><b>Bastile</b></a>, 915 ft. above the river. To reach +it cross the river by the bridge highest up, then ascend by the first +road to the left in the village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After +numerous windings by a bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side +of the mountain exposed to the S., a square house is attained on +the plateau behind the fort. The view is magnificent, but it is still +better from the peak immediately above, where there is one of the +quarries of argillaceous siliceous limestone, extensively used for +making cement. Ascend either by the continuation of the same +bullock-road or by the steep footpath. The isolated mountain, so +prominent from the village of La Tronche, is Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. +Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that remains of its early +history are some fragments of the walls built by Diocletian. The most +interesting of the buildings is the Palais des Dauphins, now the Palais +de Justice. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_bayard" id = +"grenoble_bayard"> +Grenoble: Bayard. St. André.</a></span> +In the square in front is a bronze statue of Bayard, one of the most +illustrious heroes of a chivalrous age, esteemed by his contemporaries +the model of soldiers and of men of honour. Born in 1476 at the +neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died at Rebecq on the 30th April +1524 from wounds received at the battle of Romagnane, and was buried in +the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from Grenoble, whence in 1823 his +ashes were removed to the church of St. André and deposited in the tomb +in the N. transept. <a name = "grenoble_st_andre" id = +"grenoble_st_andre"><b>St. André</b></a>, founded in the 13th cent., was +the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the intersection of the +transepts rises +<span class = "pagenum">326</span> +<a name = "page326" id = "page326"> </a> +<!-- png 384 --> +a fine tower, terminating with a steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the +Hôtel de Ville, fronting the promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, +attached to the Hôtel de Ville stands on foundations laid by +Diocletian.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Grenoble: Library.</span></p> + +<p>E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th +to the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone +tabernacle, and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th +cent. At the S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the +Place de la Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture +occupies the entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic +Gardens and the Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a +handsome building, are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. +On the E. side are the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice +containing the public library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. +long and 156 ft. wide, and cost £67,585. <a name = "grenoble_library" id += "grenoble_library"><b>The Library</b></a>, open every day except +Monday, contains 150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a +comfortable reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and +44 ft. wide, is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted +by handsome cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed +richly-illuminated manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass +cases containing medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric +times. Among the MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by +Raoul de Sestre in 1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New +Testament, 12th cent., and another in Vaudois, 13th cent.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "grenoble_gallery" id = +"grenoble_gallery"> +<span class = "headnote">Grenoble: Picture Gallery.</span></a></p> + +<p>The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains +550 paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the +largest and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists +are:—Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine, +Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino, +Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes, +C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink, +Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude +Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch, +Holbeina, Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, +Licinio, Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard, +Millet, Monnayer, Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, +Perugino, Piombo, Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, +Ruisdael, Rysbraek, Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, +D. Teniers, Terburg, Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, +Van den +<span class = "pagenum">327</span> +<a name = "page327" id = "page327"> </a> +<!-- png 386 --> +Veldt, Van Loo, P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last +room of the picture gallery is a chamber containing the busts and +portraits of the most famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the +Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to VI., Jean I. and II., +Humbert I. and II.—Bayard, 1476-1524; Lesdiguières, +1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780; Champollion, +1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable antique furniture, +porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also one of those models +of the Bastile which were distributed among the eighty-three departments +of France after the fall of that stronghold of despotism on the 14th of +July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery is the Rue Lesdiguières +leading to the Temple Protestant. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_museum" id = +"grenoble_museum"> +Grenoble: Museum.</a></span> +On the way is passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the +Museum of Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the +museum consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens +illustrating the organic and inorganic products of this part of the +Alps. The birds and ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out +to La Tronche is the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th +cent., is supported on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 +ft. high.</p> + +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "grenoble_gloves" id = +"grenoble_gloves"> +Grenoble: Manufactures.</a></span> +<p>Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble, +representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the +workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves +in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in +1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of +Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline. +Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department. +The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well +selected.</p> + +<p>Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs. +Returns next day at 8. Coach daily to <a href = +"#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341), +passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the +Roman road and the Durance. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow +valley. 1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, +and strata of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead +ore.</span></p> + +<!-- png 385 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 326</span> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +the french<br> +WALDENSIAN VALLEYS</span><br> +<a name = "map326" id = "map326" href = "images/map326.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map326thumb.png" width = "458" height = "466" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sassenage.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is <a name = "sassenage" id = +"sassenage"><b>Sassenage</b></a>. Omnibuses start from the Place +Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez omnibuses leave their +passengers at the entrance into the town near the H. Faure, but the +Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the “Place” and stop before the +inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the inn is the house of the +guide for Les Cuves, whose services are necessary to be able to cross +the Furon and the torrent from the Cuves. +<span class = "pagenum">328</span> +<a name = "page328" id = "page328"> </a> +<!-- png 387 --> +This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and Sassenage itself +makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense number of small +vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; whence it is a very +pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to Sassenage. The +suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of this kind +constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains it is +supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. The +gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of limestone +strata of great thickness, much valued for building purposes. The path +to the Cuves commences at the left side (approaching) of the H. du +Commerce, and, having passed through a doorway, enters a kind of park +and ascends by the right side of the Furon. About 1½ m. up is a +great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks as if it had been made +artificially, out of which rushes a copious stream of pure water. After +crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of a little more than 150 ft. to +an enormous vault, within which are two caves, called Les Cuves, out of +each of which rushes a great volume of water, which united passes under +the cavern below called the Four des Fées. After this two or three +beautiful cascades, quite near, are visited, and the Furon is crossed +and the return made by the left side of this most picturesque river. +From the Cuves side is seen part of the ruins of the old castle of the +Berangers, to which a series of steps leads up, commencing near the +mills, left bank. Their modern castle, built in the 17th cent., stands +within a large park adjoining the village. The large halls are furnished +with antique furniture and hung with paintings, a large proportion +being family and historical portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and +marchioness are hung with old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese +is made in the mountains around Villard and Lans, some miles to the +south of Grenoble. The general quality is not so good as formerly, as +more of the cream now is used for making butter.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Grenoble to Briançon.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "grenoble_to_briancon" id = "grenoble_to_briancon"><b>Grenoble +to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans</b></a> and the Col de Lautaret (see +<a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>). Distance, 69 m. +E. Diligence daily. When there is much snow, the Col is passed on +sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to the state of the road. Fare, +16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from Briançon to Grenoble stops several +hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a good plan to alight there for the +night. This magnificent mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in +1804, opened in 1842, and finished in 1868, makes a charming walking +excursion; while from almost every village grand mountain tours may be +made. Bourg d’Oisans, with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, +makes capital quarters. There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, +H. d’Europe; La Grave, H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le +Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the Hospice itself on the top of +the Pass, where beds and food may be had at most reasonable charges.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Claix. Vizille. Séchilienne.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the +river Drac and the railway, is the village of <a name = "claix" id = +"claix"><b>Claix</b></a>. <i>Inn:</i> H. de France, with a bridge +across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53 ft. above the river, +built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. +<span class = "pagenum">329</span> +<a name = "page329" id = "page329"> </a> +<!-- png 388 --> +farther S. by a road between poplars is <a name = "vizille_2" id = +"vizille_2"><b>Vizille</b></a>, pop. 3900. <i>Inns:</i> Imbert; Lion +d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the station. +A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between high +mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is <a name = "sechilienne" id = +"sechilienne"><b>Séchilienne</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> Petit +Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of one street, +magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the valley of the +Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above each other. To +the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from Séchilienne in about 6 +hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is reached, whence the ascent lies +through pastures and pine woods to some steep rocks. The track then, +leaving on the right a small tarn, keeps along the base of the rocks to +an abandoned mine, where it runs along the ridge called the Arete de +Brouffier, overlooking the valley of the Combe de Valloire on the right +and the Combe de Gavet on the left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, +usually covered with snow; whence a second ridge leads up to the highest +peak.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of Riouperoux, +in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought down by the +terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated the plain +from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet of Livet +at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its junction with +the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and the +argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de +l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the +Bella Donna.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourg_doisans" id = "bourg_doisans"> +<span class = "headnote">Bourg d’Oisans. Ecrins. Road to the +Ecrins.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. +<i>Inns:</i> France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon +remains at the Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey +here and start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche, +surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000 +ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded with +houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to Lac +Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its +dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide, +and commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due +N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of +Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and +valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. farther +is Lake Blanc.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of +which the most important is to the <a name = "ecrins" id = +"ecrins"><b>Ecrin Group</b></a>, by Vosc, 7½ m., St. Christophe +13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La +Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave +the narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to +the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole +valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the +distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier +summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the +<span class = "pagenum">330</span> +<a name = "page330" id = "page330"> </a> +<!-- png 389 --> +prolongation of the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; +<i>Inn:</i> Paquet, on an elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure +and noble walnut woods, on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly +opposite Venose are the green pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, +8300 ft. As the tributary valleys do not join the principal valley at +common level, but are considerably higher, a waterfall, often of +great beauty, almost invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. +In ascending the valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes +narrower, the rounded forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly +left, and, the torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, +a very short distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. +A mountain on the right hand has at some remote time crumbled into +fragments and literally filled the valley from side to side with a +colossal heap of ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path +practicable for mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with +excessive commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was +unable to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three +carriages to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, +harmonising with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the +romantic village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few +houses perched on a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of +the beautiful cascades. +<span class = "headnote float"> +St. Christophe.<br> +La Berarde.</span> +Not much farther on, the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of +a rough hill to <a name = "st_christophe" id = "st_christophe"><b>St. +Christophe</b></a>, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just +before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow +cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du +Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages, +commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss +scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing +immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of +rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely +adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, is +comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which +stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the +scenery of the Allée Blanche. <a name = "la_berarde" id = +"la_berarde"><b>La Berarde</b></a>, which is placed in the midst of this +savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a small chapel +distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation ceases just at the +village; a few stunted pines are found still higher up, but there +is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. This excessive +sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of Dauphiné. The village +of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft., that of St. Christophe is +4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character of the scenery is, like that +of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. The unbroken rocky surfaces +deceive the eye to such an extent that it is difficult to realise the +enormous scale of these mountains. To ascertain their height we must +attempt to mount them, and even then the eye has some difficulty to +submit to the testimony of the limbs. The ascent of the Pointe des +Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is extremely dangerous. Mont +<span class = "pagenum">331</span> +<a name = "page331" id = "page331"> </a> +<!-- png 390 --> +Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, but is ascended from <a href += "#val_louise">Val Louise</a> (see p. 333, and <a href = +"#map304">map p. 304</a>).</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Freney. La Grave.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"> +Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.</h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche +flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the side +of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble is +<a name = "le_freney" id = "le_freney"><b>Le Freney</b></a>, 3085 ft., +pop. 900; <i>Inn:</i> H. Europe, with mines up in the mountains but +of difficult access. It is in these mines that the crystals and the +species of quartz containing gold are found, for which the Dauphiné is +so celebrated among mineralogists.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with a +small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret is +passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a +soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les +Freaux, a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a +precipice of granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from +Grenoble and 24 m. from Briançon is</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "la_grave" id = "la_grave"><b>La Grave</b></a>, 5000 ft.; +<i>Inn:</i> H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope rising from the +road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs containing copper mines, +and opposite, on the other side of the river, the great glacier which +streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080 ft. To the E. of the Meije +is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a smaller glacier. The ridge +called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by numerous +aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the +eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile +apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest or western aiguille must be +made from the northern side. The view of this mountain from the village +of La Grave can hardly be praised too highly; it is one of the very +finest road views in the Alps, and one cannot speak in exaggerated terms +of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices. +The perpendicular cliff, extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the +summit of the Meije, is about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads +through a bleak region and several tunnels to Villard d’Arene, +4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from Briançon, a miserable hamlet, +considerably under the high road, at the foot of the Bec de l’Homme.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Col de Lautaret. Le Casset.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the <a name = +"col_lautaret" id = "col_lautaret"><b>Hospice of the Col de +Lautaret</b></a>, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft., +where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two diligences +pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it is 11 +kilomètres (6⅘ m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.) from +Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of Malaval +and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, 13,081 ft. +above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche descends to +Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. From the Hospice +the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a mine of anthracite +coal not far from the village of Lauzet. +<span class = "pagenum">332</span> +<a name = "page332" id = "page332"> </a> +<!-- png 391 --> +The discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of +this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long and +inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is the +hamlet of <a name = "le_casset" id = "le_casset"><b>Le Casset</b></a>, +at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the entrance to the ravine of +the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great glaciers which spread +themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont Pelvoux. When the snow is +melted the effect of the sun upon them is splendid. 60 m. from +Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Monètier. Briançon.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "le_monetier" id = "le_monetier"><b>Le Monètier de +Briançon</b></a>, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with barley-fields, +pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. Marguerite, 8328 ft., +which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux group. Horses changed +here. <i>Inn:</i> Alliey; mineral bath establishment, with hot +sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes the +villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and night-cap +manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and 4299 ft. +above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "briancon" id = "briancon"><b>Briançon</b></a>, 4335 ft., pop. +6000. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Paix. Temple Protestant. The Brigantium +of the Romans, and now a fortified town of the first class, with eight +strong fortresses, which guard this important entrance into France from +Italy. The town stands on the steep sides of an eminence rising +vertically from the Durance, here a roaring mountain torrent hemmed in +between the cliffs of the Mont Infernet, with strong forts on all the +salient points up to the very summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this +part the Durance is spanned by a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and +108 ft. above the river, erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On +the right side of the river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and +opposite, on the left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the +largest of the forts. The views from them are very extensive, especially +from the fort Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to +visit the forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building +down the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. +Catherine, is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded +and prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn +14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span>, 1½ hr. allowed for meals. The longitudinal +streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, little better than staircases, +down the centre of each of which runs a stream of water in a marble +gutter, with such an impulse that all manner of garbage thrown into it +quickly disappears. At the foot of Briançon is the fertile valley formed +by the union of the Guisanne with the Durance, surrounded by +carefully-cultivated mountains studded with villages. All the Briançon +coaches start from the Place du Temple, in front of the church. “The +neighbourhood of Briançon abounds in rare plants. Amongst them may be +mentioned Astragalus austriacus and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus +Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium Imperati, Brassica repanda, +Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace +septentrionalis, and Bulbocodium vernum.” —Ball’s <i>Western +Alps</i>.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">333</span> +<a name = "page333" id = "page333"> </a> +<!-- png 392 --> +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Val Louise. Grand Pelvoux.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux" id = "briancon_to_mont_pelvoux">The +great excursion from Briançon</a> is the ascent of the Pelvoux group, +whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in +favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road +extends by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a +path ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The <a name = +"val_louise" id = "val_louise"><b>Ville de Val Louise</b></a> lies near +the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the principal branch of the +Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching up to the foot of the +monarch of the group, the <a name = "grand_pelvoux" id = +"grand_pelvoux"><b>Grand Pelvoux</b></a> itself, which, although at no +great distance, cannot be seen from the village on account of the hill +which rises immediately behind. (See <a href = +"#mont_pelvoux">p. 345</a>, and <a href = "#map304">map +p. 304</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cesanne.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "briancon_to_oulx" id = "briancon_to_oulx"><b>Briançon to +Oulx</b></a>, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a +beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views +of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the +summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, is +the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, 6476 +ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it and +10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres +from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost +25 m. from <a href = "#susa">Susa</a> (p. 291). A few +yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the boundary between France and +Italy, and which commemorates in French, Latin, and Italian the opening +of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I., and its restoration or +rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is <a name = "cesanne" id = +"cesanne"><b>Cesanne</b></a>, at the confluence of the Dora with the +Ripa, 4420 ft., or nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian +custom-house. <i>Inn:</i> Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. +A post-road leads from Cesanne to <a href = "#perosa">Perosa</a>, +28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 ft., +with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The +diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also <a href = +"#page291">p. 291</a>. From Oulx rail to Turin, <a href = +"#oulx">p. 291</a>.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms a +pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably shortened +on the French side by following the footpath.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "grenoble_to_gap" id = "grenoble_to_gap">Grenoble to Gap</a> +by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes only the length +of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence for Gap.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "grenoble_to_corps" id = +"grenoble_to_corps"> +Grenoble to Corps.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road. From +Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the railway +and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. <a href = "#claix">328</a> and +<a href = "#pont_de_claix">345</a>), and thence in another straight line +between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther. Coach from Vizille to La +Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence takes nine horses, and +having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the flanks of Mont Conex in 2 +hrs. to the village of <a name = "laffrey" id = "laffrey"><b>La Frey</b> +or <b>Laffrey</b></a>, 2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and +15 from Grenoble, in a cold situation on the top of this pass, about +3000 ft. above the sea; the horses +<span class = "pagenum">334</span> +<a name = "page334" id = "page334"> </a> +<!-- png 393 --> +are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On this plateau, +immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 ft. above the sea, +2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the village of the +Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To the right or +west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite coalmines, +some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The diligence next +passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble, +a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 +ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Mure. Corps.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_1" +id = "la_mure_1"><b>La Mure</b></a>, 2860 ft., pop. 3800, the largest +town on the road, with the ancient castle of Beaumont, nail +manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, 3½ m. +distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next village, +is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the edges of +high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the Bonne, which +it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is exactly half-way +between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m. from +Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge of La +Salette, arrives at</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "corps" id = "corps"><b>Corps</b></a>, 39½ m. from Grenoble, +on a plateau 814 ft. above the confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, +or 3156 ft. above the sea. Pop. 1500. <i>Inns:</i> *Poste; Palais; next +each other. Mules for La Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. +the seat, or 15 frs. the whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and +2750 ft. above it, by a wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It +is better to descend on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very +picturesque, and, like all the journeys among the mountains of the +department of Isère, of great interest to the botanist and geologist. +The inhabitants of these mountains wander in winter to distant parts +selling their plants, bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most +justly famous liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, +Grenoble, and elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, +one of the best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of +which the black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Salette. Church of Notre Dame de la Salette.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "la_salette" id = "la_salette"> +LA SALETTE.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now +visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of +Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. <a name = +"la_salette_notre_dame" id = "la_salette_notre_dame">The church</a>, +a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished +marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside +measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached +pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The pulpit +was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three doorways, has +on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, which were very +great in a region of such difficult access, and where winter lasts six +months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. Opposite the façade +are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the gift of a Spaniard, +representing the events of the story. On the south side of the choir +<span class = "pagenum">335</span> +<a name = "page335" id = "page335"> </a> +<!-- png 394 --> +a door opens into the large and spacious building occupied by the nuns, +and on the north side another door opens into a similar building +occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in each is exactly the +same. The pension price, including wine and everything else, is 5½ frs. +per day. Visitors can have a good meat breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½ +frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au lait ½ fr., a cup +of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are very obliging. Books +approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in the “magasin” of the +establishment, giving the history of the apparition, from which the +following is extracted:— “On the 19th of September 1846, at 2.30 +<span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span>, was seen by a girl and a boy in +the place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone +shedding tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 +ft. in diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow +forth freely. Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called +the miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat +Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years +old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could +neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such +frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a +few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to +learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children in +the path between the railings indicate the place where they were +standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became +aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in +French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not +submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so +heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and +do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I have +taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have +reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is +that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts cannot +swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are the two +things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She continued a +little longer in French till, observing the children did not understand +her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same strain, +a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of the +Sabbath— ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and +having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout +mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by +the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with the +statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she +disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was +acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day +in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and other +acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August 1867 +the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The first +stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary +appeared to the children, +<span class = "pagenum">336</span> +<a name = "page336" id = "page336"> </a> +<!-- png 395 --> +was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, on 25th May 1852, assisted by +Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In +the churches all over France and in many of those in Belgium are +pictures representing N. D. de la Salette addressing the children. +In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette she is appealed to as “the +tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the morning star,” “the refuge +of sinners,” “the queen conceived without sin,” “the healer of +diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm of the irritated Lord +against us is held back,” “thou who hast said, If my people will not +submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of my son,” “thou who +continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy upon us, pray for +us.”</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a shop +at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par Maximin +Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was sent to a +nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that the +pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born near +Saint-Marcellin, Isère.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap, +22½ m. S. (See <a href = "#grenoble_to_gap">p. 333</a>, and +<a href = "#map304">map p. 304</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gières. Domene. Goncelin.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">398</span> +<span class = "miles to">78</span> +<a name = "gieres" id = "gieres"><b>GIÈRES</b></a>. At this station +omnibuses await passengers for the baths of Uriage, 4 m. N., and +1358 ft. <i>Hotels:</i> Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien Hôtel; Des Bains; Du +Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable and commodious, and is +pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, about 400 ft. higher than +Grenoble. The water contains common salt, sulphates of magnesia and +soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a deep valley at the junction +of granite and lias, which is, however, concealed for some way by an +immense mass of detritus, through which the spring forces itself. It is +conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous conduit to the establishment, +whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">401</span> +<span class = "miles to">75</span> +<a name = "domene" id = "domene"><b>DOMENE</b></a>, pop. 2000. +<i>Inn:</i> Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is generally made the +laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. above the sea-level. +Guides necessary. The first night is generally spent at the village of +Revel. Two days required.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">412</span> +<span class = "miles to">64</span> +<a name = "goncelin" id = "goncelin"><b>GONCELIN</b></a>, pop. 1600. +Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by an excellent road +through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses awaiting +passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits +passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the +right bank of the Isére.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The +<span class = "pagenum">337</span> +<a name = "page337" id = "page337"> </a> +<!-- png 396 --> +three principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ +frs. to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, +with the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other +end of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place +contiguous to the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ +frs. In a garden of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the +France. The H. Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of +the lias with the primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° +Fahr., with a great deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially +efficacious in diseases of the throat and the respiratory organs, for +the cure of which the establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus +for inhalation and gargling being both complete and varied.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate of +iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the +road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin du +Monde,” 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable +to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at +the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank and +ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of the way. +At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a toll of 10 +sous.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an elevated +point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the Isère. 25 +min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the remains of a +castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this a path ascends +through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the hamlet of Crozet. +Descend by sledge, 2 frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the +mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a +tariff by the authorities of the place.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Sept Laux. Pontcharrá.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most +difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +<a name = "sept_laux" id = "sept_laux"><b>La Ferrière</b></a>, to the Sept +Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level, and the Glacier of Gleyzin, +9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time required to go, 14 hrs. constant +walking, but to the lakes only, about half that time. This series of +lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild gloomy ravine, shut in on all +sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by springs, and are not +accumulations of stagnant water derived from the melting snow. The banks +are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered with snow nearly the +whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake Blanc, is almost always +frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a sluggish frog inhabits +the marshy margins.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">418</span> +<span class = "miles to">58</span> +<a name = "pontcharra" id = "pontcharra"><b>PONTCHARRÁ</b></a> station. +An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of Pontcharrá, pop. 2800, +<i>Inn:</i> Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La +<span class = "pagenum">338</span> +<a name = "page338" id = "page338"> </a> +<!-- png 397 --> +Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly +from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> + +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MODANE</span> +<span class = "miles from">426</span> +<span class = "miles to">50</span> +<a name = "les_marches_2" id = "les_marches_2"><b>LES MARCHES</b></a>, a +straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which stands the church of +Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of the Virgin. Beyond are +some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips from Mt. Granier, 6520 +ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where passengers by this +route for Modane and Turin <i>change carriages</i> and join the direct +line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 miles), see from <a href += "#montmelian_stn">Montmélian</a>, p. 289.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "marseilles_to_grenoble" id = +"marseilles_to_grenoble"> +Marseilles to Grenoble,</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +190 m. N., by <span class = "smallcaps">Gardanne, Aix, Pertuis, St. +Auban, Veynes,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Clelles</span>. +Fare—first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is +394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see <a href = +"#grenoble">p. 324</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles to">190</span> +<b>MARSEILLES.</b> There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by +Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be +chosen by those who desire to visit the aqueduct of <a class = "paris" +href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour</a> (see p. 77).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gardanne. Pertuis.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">11</span> +<span class = "miles to">179</span> +<a name = "gardanne" id = "gardanne"><b>GARDANNE</b></a>, pop. 3500, on +the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes are important coal-fields. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of +numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line +extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles +and Cannes (<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#carnoules">p. 142</a>), on which the only towns of +interest are Brignoles and St. Maximin.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">18½</span> +<span class = "miles to">171½</span> +<b><span class = "smallcaps">AIX-en-provence</span></b> (see <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#aix_en_provence">p. 78</a>). At Aix +change carriages for Rognac. 5 m. N. from Aix is La Calade station, +where a coach awaits passengers for <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#st_cannat">St. Cannat</a>, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc</a>, 3½ m. +farther (p. 80). 5 m. S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. +16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, is <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues</a> (see +p. 79).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">38</span> +<span class = "miles to">152</span> +<a name = "pertuis" id = "pertuis"><b>PERTUIS</b></a>, pop. 5800. +<i>Hotels:</i> Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from +the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m. +W., passing <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#cavaillon">Cavaillon</a>, the station for Apt, and <a class += "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle</a>, the station for Vaucluse +(see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences +near <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pertuis_2">Pertuis</a> +(p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is the Tour d’Aigues, which was +part of the old fortifications. From Pertuis the country becomes +picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of Mirabeau, pop. 800, with +the castle in which Mirabeau spent his boyhood, and in which his father +was born.</span></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">339</span> +<a name = "page339" id = "page339"> </a> +<!-- png 398 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque, pop. +6200 (see pp. <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">166</a> +and <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">168</a>). +4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx village and station, with beds of +lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on +the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is the station and village of +<a name = "lurs" id = "lurs">Lurs</a>, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking +the Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and +a Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Peyruis.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">77½</span> +<span class = "miles to">112½</span> +<a name = "peyruis" id = "peyruis"><b>PEYRUIS</b></a>, pop. 1000; +<i>Inn:</i> Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, at the base of +cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by the action of +water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">80½</span> +<span class = "miles to">109½</span> +<a name = "st_auban" id = "st_auban"><b>ST. AUBAN</b></a>, pop. 250, +junction with line to Digne. (For <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#digne">Digne</a>, see p. 166, and maps <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#map163">pp. 162</a> and <a href = +"#map304">304</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie" id = +"digne_to_barcelonnette_la_javie"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, +Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles</b></a>, 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 +hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La Javie, famous for plums; +pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of the Bléonne with the +Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the Combefère, whence +a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 ft. Thence descend to +Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of gypsum, 19 m. from +Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is commenced the ascent +of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend to Seyne-les-Alpes, +pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and half-way between Digne and +Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the 11th and 12th cents. +18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet, is St. +Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking the Ubaye. +From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see <a href = +"#gap_to_barcelonnette">Gap to Barcelonnette</a>, p. 341.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Colmars. Sisteron.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "digne_to_barcelonnette_draix" id = +"digne_to_barcelonnette_draix"><b>Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. +Thomas, Colmars, and Allos,</b></a> 55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from +Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, on a confluent of the +Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is <a name = "colmars" id = +"colmars"><b>Colmars</b></a>, pop. 1100, at the foot of Mts. Meunier and +Draye, on the Sence at its junction with the Verdon. Excellent cheese, +called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. +1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from Barcelonnette. A short way from +Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in one of the wildest and most +sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, +4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep, containing capital trout, and +surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 ft. high, over which tower bleak +mountains, of which the most lofty is Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake +discharges its surplus water through a subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, +whence it issues under the name of the torrent Chadoulin. From the +village of Allos proceed to Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an +interesting church, and Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary +of the Ubaye. (For <a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette</a>, see +p. 341. For <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#grasse_to_digne">Cannes and Grasse to Digne</a>, see +p. 165.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">91</span> +<span class = "miles to">99</span> +<a name = "sisteron" id = "sisteron"><b>SISTERON</b></a>, pop. 5000. +Good resting-place. <i>Hotels:</i> Vassail; Negre; their omnibuses await +passengers at station. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +Picturesquely +<span class = "pagenum">340</span> +<a name = "page340" id = "page340"> </a> +<!-- png 399 --> +situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the Durance at its +confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the town are the church +of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part of the fortifications +built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has been very much altered +externally by restoration and repairs. The effect of the graceful +octagonal tower has been destroyed by the square tower adjoining. In the +interior the arches are early pointed, inclining to the stilted form. +The three apsidal terminations are semicircular. The small window at the +end of each is closed. The end of the town farthest from the railway is +picturesque. From the gateway rise perpendicular cliffs of blue +limestone, on the top of which is a fortress of the third class. +Immediately opposite, on the other side of the Durance, are similar +strata heaved up and twisted into an enormous pyramid. A little +beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by the cemetery to a place +where there is a good view of the valleys of the Durance and the Buech. +7 m. N. from Sisteron is <b>Mison</b> station, 2002 ft. above the +sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m. farther, Laragne +station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is Eyguians-Orpier station, +1979 ft.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Serres. Veynes.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">112½</span> +<span class = "miles to">77½</span> +<a name = "serres" id = "serres"><b>SERRES</b></a>, pop. 1200; +<i>Inns:</i> *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of dirty, steep, +narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff rising from +between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#nyons">Nyons</a>, 41 m. E., p. 51. 8 m. N. +from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">121½</span> +<span class = "miles to">68½</span> +<a name = "veynes" id = "veynes"><b>VEYNES</b></a>, 2614 ft. above the +sea, pop. 1800. <i>Inns:</i> At station, H. and Rest, de la Gare; +in town, H. Dousselin.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Junction with rail to <b>Mont Dauphin-Guillestre</b>, 51 m. N.E. +This branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which +traverse the valleys of the Waldenses.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gap. Le Lauzet.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from +Mont Dauphin, is <a name = "gap" id = "gap"><b>Gap</b></a>, on the Luye, +2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; Nord; Provence; +France. This, the ancient Civitas Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, +extensive barracks, long avenues of walnut trees, and a handsome modern +cathedral, built on the site of one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture +is the mausoleum of the Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the +leaders of the Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, +Guillaume Farel, a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He +died on the 13th Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his +character were dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed +a sonorous and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate +earnestness; yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of +large audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, +aroused against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "gap_to_barcelonnette" id = "gap_to_barcelonnette"><b>Gap to +Barcelonnette</b></a>, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare, +8 frs.; time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its +confluence with the Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it +ascends by the N. side +<span class = "pagenum">341</span> +<a name = "page341" id = "page341"> </a> +<!-- png 400 --> +of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from +Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the +horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with the +Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and +ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, +23 m. from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil +is made. The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost +every part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the +picturesque fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from +Gap is <a name = "le_lauzet" id = "le_lauzet"><b>Le Lauzet</b></a>, pop. +1000, <i>Inn:</i> France, surrounded by great mountains, with narrow +gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake abounding +with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the +entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. side +of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of Meolans +occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses to the +right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m. from +Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St. +Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th +cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the +church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side. +Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over the +door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the +presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is a +square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a pattern +to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the +characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally +great to the height of the spire.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Barcelonnette. St. Paul.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "barcelonnette" id = "barcelonnette"><b>Barcelonnette</b></a>, +3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; on the +Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by mountains clothed with +walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present village was built in 1230 on +ground given by Reymond Beranger, in honour of whose ancestors, the +Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the newly-erected town received its name. +The parish church, begun in 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, +nearly rebuilt in the 16th and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the +corner of the “Place” is all that remains of the church of N. D. de +Confort, built in 1290 and destroyed in 1789.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there is +also one to the village of <a name = "st_paul" id = "st_paul"><b>St. +Paul</b></a>, 4730 ft. above the sea, and 13½ m. N.E. from +Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the Maddalena road, the +length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it diverges 6½ m. N. +up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. The wheel-road +continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. above the sea. +From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, 8767 ft., and +the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair inn) and Château +Dauphin and the river Vraita.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Jausiers.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "barcelonnette_to_cuneo" id = +"barcelonnette_to_cuneo"><b>Barcelonnette to Cuneo</b></a> by the Col +della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 +hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road +all the way (see <a href = "#map304">map, p. 304</a>). +<span class = "pagenum">342</span> +<a name = "page342" id = "page342"> </a> +<!-- png 401 --> +Guide not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. +3¾ m. more, <a name = "jausiers" id = +"jausiers"><b>Jausiers</b></a>, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the +Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The +road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to +a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of +Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of +Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La +Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of +the Ubaye to <a href = "#st_paul">St. Paul</a> (see p. 341), the +other goes to the Pass of <a name = "la_maddalena" id = +"la_maddalena"><b>La Maddalena</b></a>. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or +14¼ m. from Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, <i>Inns:</i> Alpes; +Italie; 5570 ft., the last French village. 5 m. beyond, or +19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of +the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the sea, between Mt. Mourre +and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S.E. side now +descends 850 ft. by the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura, +to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and +Italian custom-house. +<span class = "headnote float"> +Bersezio.</span> +A little distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 +from Barcelonnette, is <a name = "bersezio" id = +"bersezio"><b>Bersezio</b></a>, with an inn situated amidst much fine +wild scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The +Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at +the hamlet of Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. +8 m. from Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with +the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, +8422 ft., leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about +25 m. W. from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, +and 57 from Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to +Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#nice_to_turin">182</a> and <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page279">279</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "gap_to_grenoble" id = "gap_to_grenoble"><b>Gap to Grenoble by +Laye, Corps, and La Mure</b></a>, 62 m. Diligence to Vizille, the +remaining 8 m. by rail.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, +by <a name = "laye" id = "laye"><b>Laye</b></a>, 6½ m. N., where +the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On the summit is a house of +refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, <i>Inn:</i> +H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the +Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières, +in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see <a href = +"#grenoble_to_corps">p. 333</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +La Mure. Chorges.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is <a name = "la_mure_2" id = +"la_mure_2"><b>La Mure</b></a>, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. above the +sea-level. <i>Inns:</i> Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs between La +Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large +trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. distant are the +anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is +Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. +W. by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is +<a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey</a> (see p. 333).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +26¾ m. from Veynes junction is <a name = "chorges" id = +"chorges"><b>Chorges</b></a>, pop. 1900. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la +Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy +unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana. +In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around +the town are fragments of Roman +<span class = "pagenum">343</span> +<a name = "page343" id = "page343"> </a> +<!-- png 402 --> +buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of +Chorges, is visited by pilgrims.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Savines. Embrun.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +34¼ m. from Veynes is <a name = "savines" id = +"savines"><b>Savines</b></a>, pop. 1300. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la +Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest +and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all +the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and +Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "embrun" id = "embrun"><b>Embrun</b></a>, 3014 ft. above the +sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Thouard; Poste; 8¾ m. S.E. from +Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and +one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in +the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. side of Mont St. +Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands +the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of +Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows +with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat +buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a +flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. side. Above +the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N. +portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions; +the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the +shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal +chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of +the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is +about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide +spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above +each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a +corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their +exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is +quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and +angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date +from the time of Louis XI., who frequently visited this church to pray +to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child +over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the +northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same +size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to +ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse +reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the +animal could proceed no farther.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the +centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune. +3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun, +with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, +3¾ m. farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a +bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont Dauphin. Guillestre. Queyras.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +51 m. N.E. from Veynes is <a name = "mont_dauphin" id = +"mont_dauphin"><b>Mont Dauphin</b></a>, an isolated rock of coarse +reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with +<span class = "pagenum">344</span> +<a name = "page344" id = "page344"> </a> +<!-- png 403 --> +the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above +the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to +the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on +the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of +stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village, +which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From +the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including +Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of +the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the +village of <a name = "guillestre" id = +"guillestre"><b>Guillestre</b></a>, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and +church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, +passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to +800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a +cascade. 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, +are the fort and village of <a name = "queyras" id = +"queyras"><b>Queyras</b></a>, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m. +N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras +Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val <b>d’Arvieux</b>, +reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½ m. below +Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, +St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at +Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is +performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a +week in each parish” (see <a href = "#page304">p. 304</a>, and +<i>Murray</i>, p. 216). +<span class = "headnote float"> +Aiguilles.<br> +Abriés.</span> +A little higher up the left or S. bank of the Guil is the +Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18 m. from +Mont Dauphin is <a name = "aiguilles" id = +"aiguilles"><b>Aiguilles</b></a>, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right +bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. walk from +the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church, +the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a +convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as +headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from <a name = "abries" id = +"abries"><b>Abriés</b></a> on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house, +where France is left.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For <a href = "#perosa_to_mont_dauphin">Perosa to Mont Dauphin</a>, see +p. 307; <a href = "#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin">Torre-Pèllice to Mont +Dauphin</a>, p. 306; <a href = "#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin">Saluzzo +to Mont Dauphin</a>, p. 308, and <a href = "#map304">map +p. 304</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo" id = +"mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"><b>Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont +Viso</b></a>, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a good road extends +21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil, +5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads +over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte +Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from the Col. 8 m. +beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the +valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on the road to +Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S., to +Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley of the Vraita. +Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m. N.E. from +Sampeyre (see <a href = "#saluzzo">p. 307</a>, and <a href = +"#map304">map p. 304</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont Pelvoux.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is <a name = +"la_bessee" id = "la_bessee"><b>La Bessée</b></a>, 3420 ft. above the +sea, pop. 1000. <i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste. Here passengers alight +for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of +<span class = "pagenum">345</span> +<a name = "page345" id = "page345"> </a> +<!-- png 404 --> +<a name = "val_louise_2" id = "val_louise_2">Val Louise</a>, about 6½ m. +W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see <a href = +"#val_louise">p. 333</a>). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is <a href += "#briancon">Briançon</a> (see p. 333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée +to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers +and peaks of the <a name = "mont_pelvoux" id = "mont_pelvoux"><b>Mont +Pelvoux</b></a>, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is +visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into +two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des +Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult +pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise +was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people +having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their +children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its +inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the +officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the +valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing +out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire +to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain +in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks +below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the +caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is +believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this +valley<ins class = "correction" title = ". invisible">. </ins>The cavern +has fallen, and is nearly buried in the <i>débris</i>. The present +inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race.” +—<i>Murray</i>, p. 218.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">126</span> +<span class = "miles to">64</span> +<a name = "aspres" id = "aspres"><b>ASPRES</b></a>, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. +above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Ferdinand. Junction with road to <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron</a>, 68 m. W., on E. side +of Rhône (see p. 46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col +de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see +<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#crest_to_aspres">p. 47</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">154½</span> +<span class = "miles to">35½</span> +<a name = "clelles" id = "clelles"><b>CLELLES</b></a>, 2400 ft., pop. +1000. <i>Inn:</i> Lion d’Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of +Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane, +about 7 m. distant towards Die.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">163</span> +<span class = "miles to">27</span> +<a name = "monestier_de_clermont" id = +"monestier_de_clermont"><b>MONESTIER DE CLERMONT</b></a>, pop. 1000. +<i>Inns:</i> Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the +kidneys and stomach.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vif. Vizille.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>GRENOBLE</span> +<span class = "miles from">177</span> +<span class = "miles to">13</span> +<a name = "vif" id = "vif"><b>VIF</b></a>, pop. 3000. At the foot of a +calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. +Moucherolle, 7509 ft.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">181</span> +<span class = "miles to">9</span> +<a name = "vizille_1" id = "vizille_1"><b>VIZILLE</b></a>, pop. 4000. +<i>Inns:</i> Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans, +is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche, +with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored and used as a +manufactory (see <a href = "#page333">p. 333</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">185</span> +<span class = "miles to">5</span> +<a name = "pont_de_claix" id = "pont_de_claix"><b>PONT DE CLAIX</b></a>, +pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see +<a href = "#claix">p. 328</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">190</span> +<b>GRENOBLE.</b> (See <a href = "#grenoble">p. 324</a>.)</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">346</span> +<a name = "page346" id = "page346"> </a> +<!-- png 405 --> + +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_st_etienne" id = +"paris_to_lyons_st_etienne"> +Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.</a></h4> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +See <a href = "main.html#map_flyleaf">fly-leaf</a>, and Map of the +Rhône and Savoy, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map27">p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles to">349</span> +<b>PARIS.</b> For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint +Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important +junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">220</span> +<span class = "miles to">129</span> +<a name = "st_germain_des_fosses" id = "st_germain_des_fosses"><b>ST. +GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>. All the trains halt here.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "miles from">231</span> +<span class = "miles to">118</span> +<a name = "la_palisse" id = "la_palisse"><b>LA PALISSE</b></a>, pop. +3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the +town was built in the 14th century.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "miles from">235½</span> +<span class = "miles to">113½</span> +<a name = "arfeuilles" id = "arfeuilles"><b>ARFEUILLES</b></a>, pop. +3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th +cent.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">262</span> +<span class = "miles to">87</span> +<a name = "roanne" id = "roanne"><b>ROANNE</b></a>, pop. 20,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built, +manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing +many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy +are—the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins +of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit +Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen, +and the annual value of the produce is £1,120,000. After Roanne, the +line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country +among the Cevennes and their offshoots.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">282</span> +<span class = "miles to">67</span> +<a name = "feurs" id = "feurs"><b>FEURS</b></a>, pop. 4000, on the +Loire. <i>Inn:</i> Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains +several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the +neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre. +Many Roman remains.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">297½</span> +<span class = "miles to">51½</span> +<a name = "st_galmier" id = "st_galmier"><b>SAINT GALMIER</b></a>, pop. +3100, on the Coise. <i>Hotel:</i> Poste. Springs of mineral water of +great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and +not utilised on the spot (see <a href = +"#st_galmier_desc">p. 348</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Etienne.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">312</span> +<span class = "miles to">37</span> +<a name = "st_etienne" id = "st_etienne"><b>SAINT ETIENNE</b></a>, 1770 +ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. <i>Hotels:</i> Nord; France; both +first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and +frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences +start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East +from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice, +a large handsome building.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in +summer, was founded by the Romans <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span> +56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the +manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It +is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive +coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, +Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing +the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal +squares or “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is +intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading +northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the +west end, the Post +<span class = "pagenum">347</span> +<a name = "page347" id = "page347"> </a> +<!-- png 406 --> +and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street +called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the +Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto. +Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers +of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the +summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a +gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill, +passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing +some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St. +Etienne.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Etienne: Museums.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the <a name = +"st_etienne_museums" id = "st_etienne_museums"><b>PALAIS DES +ARTS</b></a>, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The +Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections +of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are +the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the +separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks, +triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room +upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most +striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.” On one +side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the +other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and +furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of +plates. In the second storey is the <b>MUSEE DE FABRIQUE</b>. In the +centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, +under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and +arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most +remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply +very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture +representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by +Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the +lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics +from the looms of St. Etienne. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_etienne_manufactures" id = +"st_etienne_manufactures"> +St. Etienne:<br> +Manufactures.</a></span> +The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000, +employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which +165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended +for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in +all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields +occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an +average annually £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long +street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the +Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large +establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high +rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private +gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many +as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade +of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, +and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, +the Rue de la Badouillière.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">348</span> +<a name = "page348" id = "page348"> </a> +<!-- png 407 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Rochetaillée.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<i>Excursions.</i>—Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with +large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called +the <b>Gouffre d’Enfer</b>. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the +village of <a name = "rochetaillee" id = +"rochetaillee"><b>Rochetaillée</b></a>. This is also the road to take to +ascend Mont Pilat. A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, +10 m. from St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the +Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two +peaks—the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 +ft.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the <a name = "st_galmier_desc" id = +"st_galmier_desc">St. Galmier</a> station, 1260 ft. above the sea (see +<a href = "#st_galmier">p. 346</a>). An omnibus awaits passengers +for the town, 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. +It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the +foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for +bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the +surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with +masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From <a href = "#roanne">Roannes</a> (p. <ins class = "correction" title += "text reads ‘246’">346</ins>), on the St. Galmier branch line, an +omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and +bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux, +a coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the +station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is +supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and +iron.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +St. Germains is the station for <a href = "#vichy">Vichy</a> +(p. 358).</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_lyons_tarare" id = +"paris_to_lyons_tarare"> +Paris to Lyons by Tarare.</a></h5> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles to">318</span> +<b>PARIS.</b> This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. +For time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes +picturesque after Roanne.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Roanne. Tarare.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">262</span> +<span class = "miles to">56</span> +<b>ROANNE.</b> (See <a href = "#roanne">p. 346</a>.) 5 m. S.E. is +L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. +7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 ft. above the sea-level, producing +considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth. +3 m. from Amplepuis commences the tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces +the ridge that separates the basin of the Loire from the Rhône. The +temperature of the Rhône basin in winter is rawer and colder than that +of the Loire.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">288</span> +<span class = "miles to">30</span> +<a name = "tarare" id = "tarare"><b>TARARE</b></a>, pop. 15,000. +<i>Hotel:</i> Europe; an uninteresting and unattractive manufacturing +town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep mountains, among which is Mont +Chevrier, one of the highest summits of the Beaujolais range. At the low +end of the town is the +<span class = "pagenum">349</span> +<a name = "page349" id = "page349"> </a> +<!-- png 408 --> +railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the +valley of the Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 +ft., the others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs +are employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and +especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,” +a thin gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.</p> + + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>LYONS</span> +<span class = "miles from">318</span> +<b>LYONS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">p. +29</a>).</p> + +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "lyons_to_clermont" id = +"lyons_to_clermont"> +Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand,</a></h4> + +<p class = "center smaller"> +121 m. W. by <span class = "smallcaps">Givors-Canal, St. Etienne, +Montbrison,</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Thiers</span>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montbrison.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône +change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes +towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At <a href += "#st_etienne">St. Etienne</a> (p. 346) a long halt is +generally made. A little way up from the station will be found the +steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns +to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons and 64½ m. E. from +Clermont is <a name = "montbrison" id = +"montbrison"><b>Montbrison</b></a> on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. <i>Inn:</i> +H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy +religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these +the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church +of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded +in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its +heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of +Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided +apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small +windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached +diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206 +ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. end +of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV.,” +who founded the church in <span class = "smallroman">MCCXXIII</span>. +Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. <span class = +"smallroman">MCCCLVIII</span>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Montbrison: Salle des Etats.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Fronting the E. end of the church is the <a name = +"montbrison_salle_etats" id = "montbrison_salle_etats"><b>Salle des +Etats</b></a> (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 +by Jean I., Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de +Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed +into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the +chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana +society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft. +wide, and 26¼ ft. high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted +representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every +family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows +are modern +<span class = "pagenum">350</span> +<a name = "page350" id = "page350"> </a> +<!-- png 409 --> +additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the +original one.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral +spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free +carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and +diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old +untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a +ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from +Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is +the station of St. Paul (<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_stations">p. 30</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just +after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the +gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train +traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a +viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W. +from Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from +Lyons is</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Thiers. Vertaizon. Billom.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "thiers_2" id = "thiers_2"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,500, at +first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel +dedicated to St. Symphorien (see <a href = +"#thiers">p. 367</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye, +Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu</a> (see p. 89).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or +Clermont-Ferrand.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "courty" id = "courty"><b>Courty.</b></a> Junction with line +to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W., passing Vichy, 21½ m. +N.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is <a name = "vertaizon" +id = "vertaizon"><b>Vertaizon</b></a>, pop. 2200, situated 1¼ m. S. +from the station. Junction with branch line to <a name = "billom" id = +"billom"><b>Billom</b></a>, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. <i>Inns:</i> +Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily situated town among hills crowned +with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th +to 13th cents.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach <a href = +"#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand</a> (see p. 369).</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">351</span> +<a name = "page351" id = "page351"> </a> +<!-- png 410 --> +<h4 class = "itinerary"><a name = "paris_to_marseilles_clermont" id = +"paris_to_marseilles_clermont"> +Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.</a></h4> + +<p class = "smaller"> +This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the +famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and +to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">pp. 1</a> and <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#map27">27</a>.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles to">530</span> +<b>PARIS.</b> Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à +Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first +stations passed are <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy</a> (p. 2), <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#melun">Melun</a> (p. 2), and <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau</a> (p. 3). At Moret, +42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes +separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret</a>, see p. 10.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">73</span> +<span class = "miles to">457</span> +<a name = "montargis" id = "montargis"><b>MONTARGIS</b></a>, pop. +10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. <i>Inns:</i> Poste; France. +The principal street leads directly from the station to the Hôtel de la +Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about the old castle +are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This castle, rebuilt by +Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants de France,” +became private property in 1809. A house has been built within the +circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway still +stands.</p> + +<p>The parish church is of different epochs—the nave and the +aisles belong to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps +higher, to the 16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from +which the groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.</p> + +<p>The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the +adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt. +Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between +Paris and the south of France.</p> + +<p>10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for +Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny +was born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst +of the hereditary domain of the family.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">96</span> +<span class = "miles to">434</span> +<a name = "gien" id = "gien"><b>GIEN</b></a>, pop. 7600. <i>Inns:</i> +Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and an important railway +junction. On the hill rising from the town is the church of St. Pierre, +flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding an admirable view. +Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in 1494 by Anne +de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the Préfecture. +Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38 m. +N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s +<i>Normandy</i>).</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">352</span> +<a name = "page352" id = "page352"> </a> +<!-- png 411 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Briare. Cosne.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">102½</span> +<span class = "miles to">427½</span> +<a name = "briare" id = "briare"><b>BRIARE</b></a>, pop. 5200. +<i>Inn:</i> H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the Loire, +where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther S. +by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois; +omnibus awaits passengers.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">121</span> +<span class = "miles to">409</span> +<a name = "cosne" id = "cosne"><b>COSNE</b></a>, pop. 7000. <i>Inns</i>: +Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of +considerable importance, and still retaining parts of its old +fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its junction with +the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of which the portal +and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. 6½ m. farther +S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. <i>Inn:</i> Pointe du +Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the sea. In the +neighbourhood are important quarries.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">138</span> +<span class = "miles to">392</span> +<a name = "pouilly_sur_loire" id = +"pouilly_sur_loire"><b>POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE</b></a>, pop. 3500. <i>Inn:</i> +Écu. The surrounding vineyards produce a famous white wine, with a +peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in the second year, and deteriorates +after the 15th.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">141</span> +<span class = "miles to">389</span> +<a name = "la_charite" id = "la_charite"><b>LA CHARITÉ</b></a>, built on +a hill sloping down from the railway to the Loire, crossed by both a +stone and suspension bridge. <i>Inns:</i> Poste et G. Monarque; +Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of its +fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix, +consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast +narthex, the choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This +church belonged to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to +the town its name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the +Visitandines (Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of +St. François de Sales.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pougues les Eaux. Fourchambault.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">150</span> +<span class = "miles to">380</span> +<a name = "pougues_les_eaux" id = "pougues_les_eaux"><b>POUGUES LES +EAUX</b></a>, pop. 1400. <i>Hotels:</i> Near the station, the H. du +Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement, +and opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a +quiet place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose +stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The +establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the +water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair +rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold, +has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas, +both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and +iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the +liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of +carbonic acid gas are employed.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">353</span> +<a name = "page353" id = "page353"> </a> +<!-- png 412 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">154</span> +<span class = "miles to">376</span> +<a name = "fourchambault" id = "fourchambault"><b>FOURCHAMBAULT</b></a>, +pop. 6500. <i>Inns:</i> H. Bourges at station; in town, +H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, +employing above 5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du +Carrousel were cast here. Omnibus at station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nevers.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">158</span> +<span class = "miles to">372</span> +<a name = "nevers" id = "nevers"><b>NEVERS</b></a>, pop. 20,400. +<i>Hotels:</i> at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du Chemin de +Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short distance +N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is the +nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to +which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews with +the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a lingering +illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present pope had +not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio IX. +entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s <i>South France</i>, West +Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave, +covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:— “Ici +repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à +Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En +religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des +Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35<sup>e</sup> année de +son age et la 12<sup>me</sup> de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le +lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.”</p> + +<p>Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat +at <a href = "#romagnat">Gergovia</a> (p. 372) the inhabitants +plundered his camp and massacred the soldiers. Of the old fortifications +there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the +11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th +cent.; and the Porte du Croux, a square tower of the 12th cent., +but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an antiquarian museum. At the +entrance into the town by the Paris road is a triumphal arch, erected in +1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the +French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch forces under the Duke of +Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a hill rising from the Loire +in the midst of a flat country abounding with iron, giving employment to +important ironworks. In the most elevated part is the Grande Place, with +the <b>Palais de Justice</b>, formerly the Palais Ducal, a stately +edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, but altered +and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his successors, belonging to the +families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in the form of a parallelogram, +flanked with four towers, each containing +<span class = "pagenum">354</span> +<a name = "page354" id = "page354"> </a> +<!-- png 413 --> +a staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,” +ornamented with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history +of the house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old +Palais de Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the +Palais de Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "nevers_faience" id = +"nevers_faience"> +Nevers: Faïence.</a></span> +In the Hôtel de Ville are the Library, the Picture Gallery, and an +interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers +for eight centuries. Faïence is the French term for all descriptions of +glazed earthenware, and corresponds nearly to the English word +“crockery.” The manufacture of majolica or enamelled pottery was +introduced into France by Catherine de Médicis and her kinsman Louis +Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta of Clèves in 1565, became Duke +of Nevers. There are still important pottery works in the town.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Nevers: Cassini.</span></p> + +<p>Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr, +reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs. +The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the +14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned +with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a +western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the +11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the +triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the +astronomer <a name = "nevers_cassini" id = "nevers_cassini">Cassini</a> +while engaged in the triangulation of France.</p> + +<p>The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père +was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the +chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.</p> + +<p>32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers +for the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is +hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the +Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map1">map, p. 1</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Varzy. Clamecy.</span></p> + +<p>Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line +between Paris and Turin (see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#la_roche">p. 14</a>). On this branch line, 8¾ m. +N. from Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the +important ironworks called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards +of 1300 men. 24¼ m. farther by the same line is <a name = "varzy" +id = "varzy"><b>Varzy</b></a>, pop. 2890; <i>Inn:</i> H. de la +Poste; with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents., +surmounted by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant +triforium and a beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of +St. Eugenie. 44 m. S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers +is <a name = "clamecy" id = "clamecy"><b>Clamecy</b></a>, pop. 5400 (<a +class = "paris" href = "paris.html#clamecy_2">p. 15</a>); +<i>Inns:</i> Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne +with the Beuvron. On +<span class = "pagenum">355</span> +<a name = "page355" id = "page355"> </a> +<!-- png 414 --> +the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of Jean Rouvet, +the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from the forests is +floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of St. Martin, 12th +to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by Simart, a handsome +organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos on the high altar. +Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of the Dukes of +Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the prison occupy +one large building.</p> + +<p>22 m. N. from Clamecy is <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#cravant">Cravant</a> (p. 14), an important railway junction. +Junction also at Nevers with line to <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#chagny">Chagny</a>, 178 m. E. (see p. 24). Branch +to Le Creusot and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun</a> +(see p. 24).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Saincaize. Moulins.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">154</span> +<a name = "saincaize" id = "saincaize"><b>SAINCAIZE</b></a>, 600 ft. +above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. (See Black’s +<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">195</span> +<span class = "miles to">335</span> +<a name = "moulins" id = "moulins"><b>MOULINS</b></a>, pop. 22,000. +<i>Hotels:</i> At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer; in. the town, +Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station. +A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along +the banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 +arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral +of Notre Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The +façade, over which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with +colonnettes of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned +with statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is +lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered +with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small +mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the +fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an +Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration +of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a +large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a +prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part +of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old +houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is +also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In +the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the +Palais de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, +Renaudan and Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of +Henri IV., and one of the bravest marshals of France. He had the +misfortune to draw upon himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the +displeasure of Louis XIII., which +<span class = "pagenum">356</span> +<a name = "page356" id = "page356"> </a> +<!-- png 415 --> +led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the 30th October +1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria Orsini, +caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to the +convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the finest +Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture and the +duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the public +library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th cent, +called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving statues, is +mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "duke_berwick" id = "duke_berwick"> +<span class = "headnote">Duke of Berwick. Sterne’s Maria.</span></a></p> + +<p>Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed +some time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his <i>History of the +Rebellion</i>, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died +on the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to +Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, +Duke of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James +Duke of York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister +of the great Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of +August 1670, and died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the +works of Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in +Marshal Berwick I have seen what they are.” <a name = +"sterne_maria" id = "sterne_maria">By the side</a> of the Paris road, +under a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, +with her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the +intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated +melancholy. (See Sterne’s <i>Sentimental Journey</i>, “Maria.”)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Souvigny.</span></p> + +<p>9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is <a name = "souvigny" id = +"souvigny"><b>Souvigny</b></a>, pop. 4000. <i>Hotel:</i> Croix d’Or. At +the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful +basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various +periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle +Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of +Louis II., Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is +that of Duc Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels +are enclosed in a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the +left of the principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of +the Zodiac sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of +the street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of +humble rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to +Bourbon l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de +l’Écu). It stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow +the traveller to cast a rapid glance over this +<span class = "pagenum">357</span> +<a name = "page357" id = "page357"> </a> +<!-- png 416 --> +pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and Auvergne architecture of the 11th +cent. (See <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, +p. 1</a>.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourbon-l’Archambault Baths.</span></p> + +<p><a name = "bourbon_larchambault" id = +"bourbon_larchambault"><b>Bourbon-l’Archambault</b></a>, pop. 4500. +<i>Hotels:</i> Close to the bathing establishment, the Hôtel Montespan, +on the site of the house which used to be occupied by Madame de +Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. distant the Hôtel de France. On +a hill at the northern side of this ancient town are the ruins of the +once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis I. in +1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc Pierre II. Four massive +towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the +twenty-four which it had originally. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church, +commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the +centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides +supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and +domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested, +slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is +free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime, +magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is +eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for +rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing +establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source +de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of +soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate +of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly +laxative. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_pardoux" id = "st_pardoux"> +St. Pardoux Spring.</a></span> +9½ m. S. from Bourbon is <b>St. Pardoux</b>, in a wooded and hilly +country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a +spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free +carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and +soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is +delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so +much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly +diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre +bottles at Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the +height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her +health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast +off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is +Commentry (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, +p. 1</a>).</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at +17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station +for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin; +and 41½ m. E., <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial</a> (see p. 27, and +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map1">map, p. 1</a>).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "dompierre_sur_bebre" id = +"dompierre_sur_bebre"><b>Dompierre-sur-Bebre</b></a>, pop. 2230. +<i>Inns:</i> Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this +neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the +next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, +founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent., and now an agricultural +school.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">358</span> +<a name = "page358" id = "page358"> </a> +<!-- png 417 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gilly.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "gilly" id = "gilly"><b>Gilly</b></a>, station for <a name = +"bourbon_lancy" id = "bourbon_lancy"><b>Bourbon-Lancy</b></a>, pop. +3300, 8¾ m. N. by the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, +fare 1½ fr. <i>Inn:</i>: H. Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for +drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old +houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the +valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of <a name = "st_leger" +id = "st_leger"><b>St. Leger</b></a>, with an excellent small <b>Bathing +Establishment</b>, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132° +Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the +baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the +chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of +calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and +magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is +the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and +other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and +cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of +rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished +with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water +to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a +swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the +mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still +carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At +intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the +bed of the outlet.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. and +Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their +memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of +Madame in silver is in the hospital. <i>Inns:</i> Opposite the +establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes, +pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½ +frs.; for a lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge +for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. +Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of +considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several +important cities are within a few hours by rail.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. <i>Inn:</i> +H. de Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal +mines. 6 m. farther is <a name = "digoin" id = +"digoin"><b>Digoin</b></a>, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in +the town; at the station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth +cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Germain-des-Fossés.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">220</span> +<span class = "miles to">310</span> +<a name = "st_germain_fosses" id = "st_germain_fosses"><b>ST. +GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES</b></a>, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment +rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages +for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. +H. du Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of +the station is the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. +7 m. S. from St. Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">359</span> +<a name = "page359" id = "page359"> </a> +<!-- png 419 --> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "vichy" id = "vichy"> +VICHY</a></h5> + +<p>on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. +<i>Hotels:</i> The largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the +most elegantly furnished are:—The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.; +the H. Parc, 12 to 20 frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, +12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.</p> + +<!-- png 418 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 359</span> +<a name = "map359" id = "map359" href = "images/map359.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map359thumb.png" width = "469" height = "499" +alt = "plan of Vichy" title = "VICHY"></a> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vichy_hotels" id = "vichy_hotels"> +<span class = "headnote">Vichy: Hotels and their Charges.</span></a></p> + +<p>The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the +furniture is not so costly. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in +which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the +Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the +G. H. Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel, +Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; and H. de la Restauration. Almost +adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs., +a smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first +three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. per day. The above +prices include everything except the charge of 1 fr. for candles at +the end of the stay.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille, +is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement, +the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs.; +and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more +handsome house.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, +*H. d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally +full.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the +H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally +by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise +the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Place Rosalie are the <b>Source de l’Hôpital</b> and the Banque +de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of +houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the +church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ +to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; +H. Fénélon; H. du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan +same price.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway +station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open +all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse; +H. Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ +frs.; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the +year—all between the railway station and the Etablissement.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel +Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military +hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de +Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are +the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near +<span class = "pagenum">360</span> +<a name = "page360" id = "page360"> </a> +<!-- png 420 --> +the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to +9 frs. and the H. Palais-Royal.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are +let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service. +Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, +and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome. +Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame +resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before +deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de +Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable +without being expensive.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the +best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding +the different doctors can be had.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms +a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided +over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. per +day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best +situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets. +Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the +town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site +where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end +of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th +and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have +been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as +well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In +1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and +fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that +remains is the great clock-tower or belfry.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vichy: Mineral Water Establishment.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the +<a name = "vichy_water" id = "vichy_water"><b>Mineral Water +Establishment</b></a>, composed of two large buildings—1st, The +“Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths; +a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 +cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on +the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the +ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath +costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is +allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In +front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is +the <i>office</i> for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the +sale of the bath tickets.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second +and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 c. +each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality +of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The +baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs. +The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150 +<span class = "pagenum">361</span> +<a name = "page361" id = "page361"> </a> +<!-- png 421 --> +shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given +in a single day. They commence at 3.30 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span> and continue till 5 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span>, but at one part of the season till even later. +But it must always be remembered that the external application of the +water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit +Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the +course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October. +The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally +the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from +3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day, +and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine +and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of +the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vichy: Casino. The Vichy Springs.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the <a name = "vichy_casino" +id = "vichy_casino"><b>Casino</b></a>, a handsome +comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide +and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the +park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with +elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the +building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the +theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for +800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading, +billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance +ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every morning, +a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening. +A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of +members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is +attached to the Casino.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_springs" id = "vichy_springs"><b>The Vichy +Springs.</b></a>—The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic. +They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being +carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from +each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily +eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the +organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special +specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best +with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities +which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum +quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz. +The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., taken at different times +throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water +may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are +filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold +graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts. +30 grammes equal 1 oz.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>The Springs and their peculiarities.</b>—Under the vestibule of +the principal establishment are three important springs—the Grande +Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see <a href = +"#map359">plan</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vichy: Grande-Grille, Chomel, Mesdames.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_grandegrille" id = "vichy_grandegrille"><b>The +Grande-Grille</b></a>, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed +<span class = "pagenum">362</span> +<a name = "page362" id = "page362"> </a> +<!-- png 422 --> +with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the +viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and +gravel.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The <a name = "vichy_chomel" id = +"vichy_chomel"><b>Puits-Chomel</b></a>, 113° Fahr. The water of this +spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very +valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its +irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters +it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of +digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can +in many cases profitably replace the other springs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "mesdames" id = "mesdames"><b>Mesdames</b></a>, 61° Fahr., +highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and +in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has +been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy +of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his +usual strength.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113° +Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for +supplying the baths.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vichy: Prunelle, Parc, Hôpital, Celestins.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building +opposite the military hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_prunelle" id = +"vichy_prunelle"><b>Source Prunelle</b></a>, a cold spring, +recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi. +A little farther E. is the <b>Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.</b>, +principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is +beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the +park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the <a name = "vichy_parc" id = +"vichy_parc"><b>Source du Parc, 71° Fahr.</b></a>, recommended for +sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the +intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic +irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the Casino, in front of the town +hospital, is the <a name = "vichy_hopital" id = +"vichy_hopital"><b>Source de l’Hôpital</b></a> or Rosalie, 89° Fahr., +resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is +recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs, +dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is +particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are +deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian +tumours and other diseases of females.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five +important springs, the <a name = "vichy_celestins" id = +"vichy_celestins"><b>Sources des Celestins</b></a>, 54° and 58° Fahr., +of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are +largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being +their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these +springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the +urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to +digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either +the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of +the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just +beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des +Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77° +Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a stimulating +<span class = "pagenum">363</span> +<a name = "page363" id = "page363"> </a> +<!-- png 423 --> +action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and +is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder, +attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being +cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy +waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of +the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in +others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other +cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille +would be preferable.” —<i>Dr. E. Lee.</i></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Source Hauterive. Influence of Vichy Water.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the <a name = +"vichy_hauterive" id = "vichy_hauterive"><b>Source Hauterive</b></a>, +57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities +it resembles the Celestins.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_water_influence" id = "vichy_water_influence">The +principal use</a> of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and +in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as +dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration +or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often +connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in +enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis. +Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the +chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and +for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period +of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths +of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be +distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it +can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the +digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the +abnormally acid condition of the blood.” —<i>Madden’s Health +Resorts.</i> “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however, +a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of +either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute +or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of +attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the +last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as +much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis.” +—<i>Dr. Daumas.</i> “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy +course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and +assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone +of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more +rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more +freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present, +ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and +therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the +colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind.” —<i>Dr. +P. James.</i></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">364</span> +<a name = "page364" id = "page364"> </a> +<!-- png 424 --> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "vichy_chemical" id = +"vichy_chemical"> +CHEMICAL ANALYSIS of the Principal Springs.</a></h5> + +<table class = "smaller"> +<tr> +<td> +GG = Grande Grille.<br> +Ch = Chomel.<br> +Md = <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Mesdammes’">Mesdames</ins>.<br> +L = Lucas. +</td> +<td class = "leftline"> +P = Park.<br> +H = Hopital.<br> +Ce = Célestins.<br> +Hr = Hauterive. +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "grid"> +<tr> +<td class = "outline center" colspan = "3" rowspan = "2"> + <br> +Acids and Bases contained in each litre.<br> + </td> +<td class = "outline center" colspan = "8">NAMES OF THE SPRINGS.<br> + </td> +</tr> +<tr class = "outline"> +<!-- <td></td> --> +<td>GG</td> +<td>Ch</td> +<td>Md</td> +<td>L</td> +<td>P</td> +<td>H</td> +<td>Ce</td> +<td>Hr</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Carbonic Acid</td> +<td class = "number">4.418</td> +<td class = "number">4.429</td> +<td class = "number">5.029</td> +<td class = "number">5.348</td> +<td class = "number">5.071</td> +<td class = "number">4.719</td> +<td class = "number">4.705</td> +<td class = "number">5.640</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Sulphuric „</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +<td class = "number">.141</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +<td class = "number">.177</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +<td class = "number">.164</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Phosphoric „</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.038</td> +<td class = "center">traces</td> +<td class = "number">.038</td> +<td class = "number">.076</td> +<td class = "number">.025</td> +<td class = "number">.050</td> +<td class = "number">.625</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Arsenic „</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +<td class = "number">.001</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Hydrochloric Acid</td> +<td class = "number">.332</td> +<td class = "number">.334</td> +<td class = "number">.222</td> +<td class = "number">.324</td> +<td class = "number">.344</td> +<td class = "number">.324</td> +<td class = "number">.234</td> +<td class = "number">.334</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Silica</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.032</td> +<td class = "number">.050</td> +<td class = "number">.055</td> +<td class = "number">.050</td> +<td class = "number">.060</td> +<td class = "number">.071</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Protoxide of Iron</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.012</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.008</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Lime</td> +<td class = "number">.169</td> +<td class = "number">.169</td> +<td class = "number">.235</td> +<td class = "number">.212</td> +<td class = "number">.239</td> +<td class = "number">.222</td> +<td class = "number">.180</td> +<td class = "number">.168</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Strontia</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.008</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Magnesia</td> +<td class = "number">.097</td> +<td class = "number">.108</td> +<td class = "number">.134</td> +<td class = "number">.088</td> +<td class = "number">.068</td> +<td class = "number">.064</td> +<td class = "number">.105</td> +<td class = "number">.160</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Potash</td> +<td class = "number">.182</td> +<td class = "number">.192</td> +<td class = "number">.098</td> +<td class = "number">.146</td> +<td class = "number">.151</td> +<td class = "number">.228</td> +<td class = "number">.163</td> +<td class = "number">.098</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Soda</td> +<td class = "number">2.488</td> +<td class = "number">2.536</td> +<td class = "number">1.957</td> +<td class = "number">2.501</td> +<td class = "number">2.500</td> +<td class = "number">2.500</td> +<td class = "number">2.560</td> +<td class = "number">2.368</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "toppad"> +<td class = "center" colspan = "3"> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +Totals</span></td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.997</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.043</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">7.866</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.877</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.687</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.302</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">8.327</td> +<td class = "number outline" rowspan = "3">9.039</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "leftline"> +<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td> +<td><span class = "invisible">1.2345</span></td> +<td class = "rightline"> +<span class = "smaller invisible">1.2345</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "center bottomline" colspan = "3"> +Saline ingredients<br> +in each litre.</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "topline sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Free Carbonic Acid</td> +<td class = "number">.908</td> +<td class = "number">.768</td> +<td class = "number">1.908</td> +<td class = "number">1.751</td> +<td class = "number">1.555</td> +<td class = "number">1.067</td> +<td class = "number">1.049</td> +<td class = "number">2.183</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Bicarb. of Soda</td> +<td class = "number">4.883</td> +<td class = "number">5.091</td> +<td class = "number">4.016</td> +<td class = "number">5.004</td> +<td class = "number">4.857</td> +<td class = "number">5.029</td> +<td class = "number">5.103</td> +<td class = "number">4.687</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Potash</td> +<td class = "number">.352</td> +<td class = "number">.371</td> +<td class = "number">.185</td> +<td class = "number">.282</td> +<td class = "number">.292</td> +<td class = "number">.440</td> +<td class = "number">.315</td> +<td class = "number">.189</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ +</span>Magnesia</td> +<td class = "number">.303</td> +<td class = "number">.338</td> +<td class = "number">.429</td> +<td class = "number">.275</td> +<td class = "number">.213</td> +<td class = "number">.200</td> +<td class = "number">.328</td> +<td class = "number">.501</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ +</span>Strontia</td> +<td class = "number">.303</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.005</td> +<td class = "number">.005</td> +<td class = "number">.005</td> +<td class = "number">.005</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Lime</td> +<td class = "number">.434</td> +<td class = "number">.427</td> +<td class = "number">.604</td> +<td class = "number">.545</td> +<td class = "number">.614</td> +<td class = "number">.570</td> +<td class = "number">.462</td> +<td class = "number">.432</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap"> „ </span>Protox. of +Iron</p></td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.026</td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.004</td> +<td class = "number">.017</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of Soda</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +<td class = "number">.250</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +<td class = "number">.314</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +<td class = "number">.291</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Phosphate</td> +<td class = "number">.130</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "center">traces</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.140</td> +<td class = "number">.046</td> +<td class = "number">.091</td> +<td class = "number">.046</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Arseniate</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.003</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +<td class = "number">.002</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><p>Chloride of Sodium</p></td> +<td class = "number">.534</td> +<td class = "number">.534</td> +<td class = "number">.355</td> +<td class = "number">.518</td> +<td class = "number">.550</td> +<td class = "number">.518</td> +<td class = "number">.534</td> +<td class = "number">.534</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Silica</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.070</td> +<td class = "number">.032</td> +<td class = "number">.050</td> +<td class = "number">.055</td> +<td class = "number">.050</td> +<td class = "number">.060</td> +<td class = "number">.071</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline toppad"> +<td class = "center" colspan = "3"> +<span class = "smallcaps"> +Totals</span></td> +<td class = "number outline">7.914</td> +<td class = "number outline">7.959</td> +<td class = "number outline">7.811</td> +<td class = "number outline">8.797</td> +<td class = "number outline">8.601</td> +<td class = "number outline">8.222</td> +<td class = "number outline">8.244</td> +<td class = "number outline">8.956</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only +slightly from the Célestins.</p> + +<p>In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying +spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vichy: Drives.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "vichy_drives" id = "vichy_drives"> +Excursions.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_cabs" id = "vichy_cabs"><b>CAB FARES.</b></a>—The +course within the town from 6 <span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span> to +12 <span class = "smallroman">P.M.</span> with 1 horse, 1½ fr.; 2 +horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3 frs., +and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.; the +day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the +following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, +25 frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Art. 17—The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is +always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the +entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">365</span> +<a name = "page365" id = "page365"> </a> +<!-- png 425 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Art. 18.—The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for +rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled +beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des +Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, +7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and +back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, +and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, +8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; +2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 +frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 +horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, +18 frs.; 2 horses, 24 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Cusset.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "cusset" id = "cusset"><b>Cusset</b></a>, pop. 6200, on the +Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. <i>Inn:</i> H. du Centre, in the +Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into +the town is the <b>Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie</b>, a neat +building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with +turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold. +The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only +1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of +Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take +the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, +but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is +called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the +extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a +miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest +part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms. +Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and +flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the +Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle +said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1 fr. +each.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "montagneverte grivats"> +<span class = "headnote">Montagne-Verte. Grivats.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288 +ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good +view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the +neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_to_busset" id = "vichy_to_busset"><b>Vichy to +Busset</b></a> by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return +by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the +Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is <a name = "grivats" id += "grivats"><b>Grivats</b></a>, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles +de Vichy, called also Grivats, a variegated cotton stuff used for +gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ +fr. the mètre (1 ⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at +Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all +made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in +Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de +l’Hôpital.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">366</span> +<a name = "page366" id = "page366"> </a> +<!-- png 426 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches +the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. from +Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate +quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The +favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade +du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are +very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of +Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Busset. Randan.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards +Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this +road. <a name = "busset" id = "busset"><b>Busset</b></a> is a poor +village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset, +built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid +view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the +Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy, +5 m. N.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the +village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins +of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the +Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required +from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_to_randan" id = "vichy_to_randan"><b>Vichy to +Randan.</b></a>—Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20 +<span class = "smallroman">A.M.</span>; arrives at <a name = "randan" id += "randan"><b>Randan</b></a> at 1 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span>; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by +5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on +Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by Maulmont +costs 3½ frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Vesse-Intermittent-Spring.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left +hand a small house with the sign <a name = "vesse_spring" id = +"vesse_spring"><span class = "smallcaps">Source +Intermittente</span></a>. In the garden is the very interesting +intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it +rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface. +During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue, +from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the +stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois +Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern +extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion +belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with +several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame +Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little +chapel, and a large kitchen (see <a href = "#page368">p. 368</a>). +From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat +of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the +site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier +is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey +may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the +river.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "vichy_to_thiers" id = "vichy_to_thiers"><b>Vichy to +Thiers</b></a> by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from +Vichy are the village of <a name = "st_yorre" id = "st_yorre"><b>St. +Yorre</b></a> and the Larbaud mineral +<span class = "pagenum">367</span> +<a name = "page367" id = "page367"> </a> +<!-- png 427 --> +water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The +water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, +5 m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the +station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension +bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The +broad road opposite the station leads to <a name = "ris" id = +"ris"><b>Ris</b></a> (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a +large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street. +The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and +semicircular apse.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +For <a name = "chateldon" id = "chateldon"><b>Chateldon</b></a>, 3¼ m. +S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to +second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated +in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered +with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin, +pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but +not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at +the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<b>Maringues</b> is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy +de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Thiers.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of +<a name = "thiers" id = "thiers"><b>Thiers</b></a>, pop. 16,230. +<i>Inns:</i> *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on +almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from +Clermont, passing through a mountainous country.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is +built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft. +above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.” +At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns +the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the +different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped +surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture +of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants. +The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of +the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the +manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt. +Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th +cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel +a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride. +The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th +cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest, +built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second +altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent., +representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is +modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a +pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent +butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but +the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour. +The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of +<span class = "pagenum">368</span> +<a name = "page368" id = "page368"> </a> +<!-- png 428 --> +Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the +country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line +winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring +torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the +course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is +the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or +Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine +Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the +unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch +financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The +castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially +restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is +<b>Aigueperse</b>, pop. 2600. <i>Inn:</i> St. Louis. A coach runs +between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy +and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of +Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant +afternoon drive.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the +Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most +imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the +Bèbre, pop. 2830; <i>Inn:</i> H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th +cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see <a href = +"#la_palisse">p. 346</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">224</span> +<a name = "st_remi_en_rollat" id = +"st_remi_en_rollat"><b>SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT</b></a>, 867 ft. above the +sea.<br> + </p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Gannat. Aigueperse.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">235½</span> +<span class = "miles to">294½</span> +<a name = "gannat" id = "gannat"><b>GANNAT</b></a>, pop. 6000. +<i>Inns:</i> Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on the +Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St. +Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a +good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are +by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the +Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent. +Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of +the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the +Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s <i>Normandy, Brittany, and +Touraine</i>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">242</span> +<span class = "miles to">288</span> +<a name = "aigueperse" id = "aigueperse"><b>AIGUEPERSE</b></a>, pop. +2600. <i>Hotels:</i> St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the +Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of +the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station goes to +Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle +of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in +<span class = "pagenum">369</span> +<a name = "page369" id = "page369"> </a> +<!-- png 429 --> +1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest +of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the +Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Riom.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">253</span> +<span class = "miles to">277</span> +<a name = "riom" id = "riom"><b>RIOM</b></a>, 1105 ft. above the sea, +pop. 11,000. <i>Inns:</i> H. Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences +to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; and to +Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St. +Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier +having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the +same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St. +Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th +and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is +the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the +Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a +choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building +called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 <span class = +"smallroman">A.M.</span>, are the mineral baths of <a name = +"chateauneuf" id = "chateauneuf"><b>Châteauneuf</b></a>, pop. 1000. +<i>Hotels:</i> Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the +fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of +the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous +diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon, +most picturesquely situated among mountains. <i>Hotels:</i> Bains; +Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every +accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels, +gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100° +Fahr.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is <a name = "volvic_desc" id = +"volvic_desc">Volvic</a>, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church, +the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from +the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see <a href = +"#volvic">p. 377</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Clermont-Ferrand.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">260½</span> +<span class = "miles to">269½</span> +<a name = "clermont_ferrand" id = +"clermont_ferrand"><b>CLERMONT-FERRAND</b></a>, 1335 ft. above the sea, +pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the +principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, +while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station. +<i>Hotels:</i> in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for +commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France. +All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic +Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good house. Among +the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des +Voyageurs. +<span class = "pagenum">370</span> +<a name = "page370" id = "page370"> </a> +<!-- png 430 --> +Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and +Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the <a href = +"#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome</a> (see page 372). In the “Place” are a +large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for +excursions.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral.</span></p> + +<p>The <a name = "clermont_post" id = "clermont_post">general post +office</a> is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the +cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a +charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a +bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture. +A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue +is the Temple Protestant, service 1 <span class = +"smallroman">P.M.</span> The first narrow street beyond the post office +leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.</p> + +<p>Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the +moist and crystalline (glacé) state.</p> + +<p>The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the <a name = +"clermont_cathedral" id = "clermont_cathedral"><b>Cathedral</b></a>, +founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt +and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round +belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are +twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled +piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and +immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window +resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir +contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive +and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows +of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, +having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the +apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the +rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, +with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th +cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is +a miracle-working image of Mary and Child.</p> + +<p>The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage +Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the +principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going +to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which +is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the +shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was +born.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port.</span></p> + +<p>The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la +Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. +<span class = "pagenum">371</span> +<a name = "page371" id = "page371"> </a> +<!-- png 431 --> +The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de +Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond +these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to <a name = +"clermont_notre_dame" id = "clermont_notre_dame"><b>Notre Dame du +Port</b></a>, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored +in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. +The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental +friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns +in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal +tower.</p> + +<p>In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round +the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their +capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is +surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or +less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is +massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the +window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N. +ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.</p> + +<p>Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns. +Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary +and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578, +when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well, +which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with +miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude +for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman +Mary.</p> + +<p>It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. +and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake +the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an +immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of +God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits +of the Crusaders.</p> + +<p>The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide +Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the +Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms, +the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public +Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens.</span></p> + +<p>Behind the Academy are the <a name = "clermont_botanic" id = +"clermont_botanic"><b>Botanic Gardens</b></a>, in which a considerable +part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit +trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a +small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. +<span class = "pagenum">372</span> +<a name = "page372" id = "page372"> </a> +<!-- png 432 --> +Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and +flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Romagnat.</span></p> + +<p>3¾ m. S. from Clermont is <a name = "romagnat" id = +"romagnat"><b>Romagnat</b></a>, pop. 2000, at the foot of +M. Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., +the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully +defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, +whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are +supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes</a>, +p. 19.)</p> + +<p>Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the +Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre; +or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the +<b>Baraque</b>, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "puy_de_dome" id = "puy_de_dome"><b>Puy-de-Dome</b></a> +is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered +with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock +cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the +variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is +grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with +flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which +the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect +craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la +Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with +the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins +of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman +temple to Mercury.</p> + +<p>For <a href = "#clermont_to_brive">Clermont-Ferrand to Brive</a> by +Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p. 376. Junction at Clermont +with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers), +Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see <a href = +"#lyons_to_clermont">p. 349</a>).</p> + +<p>From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the +Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are +very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le +Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; +272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station +is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining +hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Issoire.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">282½</span> +<span class = "miles to">247½</span> +<a name = "issoire" id = "issoire"><b>ISSOIRE</b></a>, pop. 6400, and +1200 ft. above the sea-level. <i>Hotels:</i> Poste; Pezissat; opposite +each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The +principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting +specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The +<span class = "pagenum">373</span> +<a name = "page373" id = "page373"> </a> +<!-- png 433 --> +exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just +sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the +elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the +characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of +differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the +chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St. +Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy +painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the +eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not +below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a +complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the +altar.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Le Breuil. Ardes.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">287¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">242¼</span> +<a name = "le_breuil" id = "le_breuil"><b>LE BREUIL</b></a>, 1287 ft., +pop. 1000. Opposite station, <i>Inn:</i> H. Beranger. Coaches await +passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W., +and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly +and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain, +a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the +carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas. +<span class = "sidetrip"> +2½ m. farther is <a name = "ardes" id = "ardes"><b>Ardes</b></a>; +<i>Inns:</i> Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze. +In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored +and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and +Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open +book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great +basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical +rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot +of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road, +contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below +are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed +among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic +formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, +perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way +beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff +resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About +4½ m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed +by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest +and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About +5 m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of +St. Pesade.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral +waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea. +Between Brassal, <i>Inn:</i> Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. +above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin +clay.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Arvant. Brioude.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">298</span> +<span class = "miles to">232</span> +<a name = "arvant" id = "arvant"><b>ARVANT</b></a>, 1400 ft., a dirty +hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the +inns is the H. Voyageurs. +<span class = "pagenum">374</span> +<a name = "page374" id = "page374"> </a> +<!-- png 434 --> +Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing +the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See +Black’s <i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p> + +<p>From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences +the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty +woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine +and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line, +between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from +Neussargues, 7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from +Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, +which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The +span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct +1851 ft.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">304</span> +<span class = "miles to">226</span> +<a name = "brioude" id = "brioude"><b>BRIOUDE</b></a>, 1430 ft. above +the sea, pop. 5000. <i>Inns:</i> *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a +tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien +(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red +sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals. +The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over +which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another +portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular +arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing +large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but +plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the +two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a +lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a +cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the +chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white +stones.</p> + +<p>The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers +with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged +capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up +triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a +profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some +beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.</p> + +<p>Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the +Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the +plain.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">318½</span> +<span class = "miles to">211½</span> +<a name = "st_georges_daurac_stn" id = "st_georges_daurac_stn"><b>ST. +GEORGES-D’AURAC</b></a>, 1872 ft. above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Lombardin, +near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for +St. Etienne 54½ m. farther. (See <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#st_georges_daurac">p. 91</a>, and <a class = "paris" +href = "paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.)</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">375</span> +<a name = "page375" id = "page375"> </a> +<!-- png 435 --> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">323</span> +<span class = "miles to">207</span> +<a name = "langeac" id = "langeac"><b>LANGEAC</b></a>, pop. 4800. +<i>Inns:</i> H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#langeac">p. 91</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.) Between Langeac and Langogne the +train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst +vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or +grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark +ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance +while being hurried past in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is +Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The +fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the +rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. +from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then +follow the stations of <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier</a>, 2000 ft. (p. 91); +Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Langogne.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">364½</span> +<span class = "miles to">165½</span> +<a name = "langogne" id = "langogne"><b>LANGOGNE</b></a>, 2940 ft. above +the sea, pop. 4000. <i>Inns:</i> Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly +situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. <a class += "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne">88</a> and <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas_to_langogne">94</a>, and <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#map46">map p. 46</a>.) 7½ m. +farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La +Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles +to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, +6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now +passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">390</span> +<span class = "miles to">140</span> +<a name = "villefort" id = "villefort"><b>VILLEFORT</b></a>, 1820 ft., +pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the +foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing +through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "bagnols_les_bains" id = "bagnols_les_bains"><b>Bagnols les +Bains</b></a>, pop. 500. <i>Inns:</i> Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi. +A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the +Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an +unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in +rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the +neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and +plenty of game on the mountains.</p> + +<p>From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous +country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At <a name = "la_grande_combe" +id = "la_grande_combe"><b>La Grande Combe</b></a>, with the two stations +of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines +commence which extend to Alais.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Alais.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">419</span> +<span class = "miles to">111</span> +<a name = "alais" id = "alais"><b>ALAIS</b></a>, pop. 22,000, on the +Gardon. <i>Hotels:</i> Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like +Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields, +iron-works, and manufactories. +<span class = "pagenum">376</span> +<a name = "page376" id = "page376"> </a> +<!-- png 436 --> +This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of +Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. +Some very capital wine is made at Alais.</p> + +<p>Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to +Teil (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">p. 96</a>, +and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map56">map p. 56</a>); +also to <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun</a>, +35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map56">map p. 56</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">450</span> +<span class = "miles to">80</span> +<a name = "nimes_stn" id = "nimes_stn"><b>NÎMES</b></a> (see <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">p. 101</a>, and <a class = "paris" +href = "paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">467</span> +<span class = "miles to">63</span> +<a name = "tarascon_stn" id = "tarascon_stn"><b>TARASCON</b></a> (see +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">p. 66</a>, and <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">470</span> +<span class = "miles to">60</span> +<b>ARLES</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">p. +68</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map p. +66</a>).<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">499½</span> +<span class = "miles to">30½</span> +<b>ST. CHAMAS</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#st_chamas">p. 76</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map66">map p. 66</a>).<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">512½</span> +<span class = "miles to">17½</span> +<b>ROGNAC</b> (see <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">p. +77</a>, and <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#map66">map +p. 66</a>).<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "miles from">518</span> +<span class = "miles to">12</span> +<a name = "pas_des_lanciers" id = +"pas_des_lanciers"><b>PAS-DES-LANCIERS</b></a>.<br> + </p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>PARIS</span> +<span class = "miles from">530</span> +<b>MARSEILLES</b> (see <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles">p. 111</a>, and <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#map123">map p. 123</a>).<br> + </p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "clermont_to_brive" id = +"clermont_to_brive"> +Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard,</a></h5> + +<p>122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic +12½ m., Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., +Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., +Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., Meymac +73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. +N.E. from Brive.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "royat" id = "royat"> +<span class = "headnote">Royat.</span></a></p> + +<p>From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends +the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first +station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, +adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to +Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. +Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, +founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was +heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept +is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. +Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a +crypt supported on six colonnettes.</p> + +<p>In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of +J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on +consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads +<span class = "pagenum">377</span> +<a name = "page377" id = "page377"> </a> +<!-- png 437 --> +down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth +sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are +allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others +are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains. +<span class = "headnote float"><a name = "st_mart" id = "st_mart"> +St. Mart.</a></span> +The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. +In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of +the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of +which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the +establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the +chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and +magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The +charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.</p> + +<p>Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the +establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; +Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of +the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; +Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing +through Chamalières. A great variety of excursions in the +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">5</span> +<span class = "miles to">117</span> +<a name = "durtol" id = "durtol"><b>DURTOL</b></a>, situated among high +wooded mountains.<br> + </p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille.</span></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">12½</span> +<span class = "miles to">109½</span> +<a name = "volvic" id = "volvic"><b>VOLVIC</b></a>. In the neighbourhood +of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct +crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front +of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic +by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le +Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent. +Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries +(see <a href = "#volvic_desc">p. 369</a>).</p> + +<p>The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. +Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for <a name += "pontgibaud" id = "pontgibaud"><b>Pont-Gibaud</b></a>, pop. 1300, +24 m. distant. <i>Inns:</i> H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their +omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are +situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava +from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses +of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CLERMONT</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>MARSEILLES</span> +<span class = "miles from">40½</span> +<span class = "miles to">81½</span> +<a name = "laqueuille" id = "laqueuille"><b>LAQUEUILLE</b></a>, 3624 ft. +above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and +for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore +passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above +the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule +passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.</p> + + +<!-- png 439 --> +<p class = "illustration"> +<span class = "pagenum">opp. 378</span> +Environs of<br> +MONT DORE<br> +and LA BOURBOULE<br> +<a name = "map378" id = "map378" href = "images/map378.png" +target = "_blank"> +<img src = "images/map378thumb.png" width = "447" height = "318" +alt = "see caption"></a> +</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">378</span> +<a name = "page378" id = "page378"> </a> +<!-- png 438 --> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "mont_dore" id = "mont_dore"> +MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne, +3402 ft. above the sea. <i>Hotels.</i>—Considering the style of +their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in +the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes +coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The +difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around +the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses, +Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du +Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is +rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered +second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge +as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat; +H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; +H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a +handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and +the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the +Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the +other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well +adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to +treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just +within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la +Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the +usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in +two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the +bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, +temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in +an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source +César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand +end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table +mixed with the wine.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some +little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in +and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are +of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the +more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements +for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the +month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during +July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then +2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c. +Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from +109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water +in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the +sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by +tickets bought at the office of the baths.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">379</span> +<a name = "page379" id = "page379"> </a> +<!-- png 440 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "mont_dore_water" id = +"mont_dore_water"> +Contents of the Springs of Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</a></h5> + +<table> +<tr> +<td width = "40%"> +MdS = Madeleine Spring.<br> +PvS = Pavillon Spring.<br> +RiS = Rigny Spring. +</td> +<td> +CsS = Caesar Spring.<br> +RaS = Ramond Spring. +<p>BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "grid"> +<tr> +<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span><br> + </td> +<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td> +<td><span class = "invisible">0.1234</span></td> +<td class = "box">MdS</td> +<td class = "box">PvS</td> +<td class = "box">RiS</td> +<td class = "box">CsS</td> +<td class = "box">RaS</td> +<td class = "box">BPCS</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "topline sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Free carbonic acid gas</td> +<td>0.3552</td> +<td>0.3810</td> +<td>0.3644</td> +<td>0.5967</td> +<td>0.4997</td> +<td>0.0518</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Bicarbonate of soda</td> +<td>0.5362</td> +<td>0.5452</td> +<td>0.5375</td> +<td>0.5361</td> +<td>0.5362</td> +<td>2.8920</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of +potash</td> +<td>0.0309</td> +<td>0.0309</td> +<td>0.0232</td> +<td>0.0212</td> +<td>0.0212</td> +<td>....</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of +lime</td> +<td>0.3423</td> +<td>0.3142</td> +<td>0.3092</td> +<td>0.3209</td> +<td>0.2720</td> +<td>0.1905</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of +magnesia</td> +<td>0.1757</td> +<td>0.1676</td> +<td>0.1628</td> +<td>0.1676</td> +<td>0.1647</td> +<td>....</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3"><p><span class = "gap"> „ </span>of +protoxide of iron</p></td> +<td>0.0207</td> +<td>0.0235</td> +<td>0.025</td> +<td>0.0258</td> +<td>0.0317</td> +<td>0.0021</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Chloride of Sodium</td> +<td>0.3685</td> +<td>0.3630</td> +<td>0.3599</td> +<td>0.3587</td> +<td>0.3578</td> +<td>2.8406</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Sulphate of soda</td> +<td>0.0761</td> +<td>0.0761</td> +<td>0.0761</td> +<td>0.0756</td> +<td>0.0737</td> +<td>0.2084</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Arseniate of soda</td> +<td>0.00096</td> +<td>0.00096</td> +<td>0.00096</td> +<td>0.0009</td> +<td>0.00095</td> +<td>0.02847</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Silicic acid</td> +<td>0.1654</td> +<td>0.1686</td> +<td>0.1653</td> +<td>0.1552</td> +<td>0.1550</td> +<td>0.1200</td> +</tr> +<tr class = "sideline"> +<td colspan = "3">Alumina</td> +<td>0.0112</td> +<td>0.0094</td> +<td>0.0101</td> +<td>0.0083</td> +<td>0.0065</td> +<td class = "center">Traces.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of +potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters +is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more +abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The +temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27° +above the hottest of Mont-Dore.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, +asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders +marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, +nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.—Madden’s <i>Health +Resorts</i>. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken +daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, +and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this +is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which +frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a +disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication +that the saturation point has been obtained.—Lee’s +<i>Baths</i>.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm +clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses +costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "mont_dore_excursions" id = +"mont_dore_excursions"><i>Excursions.</i></a>—There are many +pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic +hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at +intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the +dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the +ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these +confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush +and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the +district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance +as well as the way to the different places.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">380</span> +<a name = "page380" id = "page380"> </a> +<!-- png 441 --> + +<p>One of the first excursions undertaken is to the <a name = +"queureuilh lake guery orcival"><b>Cascade du Queureuilh</b></a>, about +2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls +and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region, +is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below), +5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after +rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard +basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists +often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet, +a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile +below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage. +On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are +made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup +1¾ m., and to the Pré du Barbier.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Lake Guéry. Orcival.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The excursion to <a name = "lake_guery" id = "lake_guery"><b>Lake +Guéry</b></a>, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in +the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road, +just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view +of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le +Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the +Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the +shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. from the main road, +in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake, +at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the +left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other +clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge +basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of <a name = "orcival" +id = "orcival"><b>Orcival</b></a>, with an inn and a church of the 9th +and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the +earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante, +a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the +Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, +5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an +extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some +menhirs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. +E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather +less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake +Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a +bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and <a href = +"#pic_sancy">Sancy</a> (see p. 381).</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the +cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (<a href = +"#page385">p. 385</a>); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (<a +href = "#page385">p. 385</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pic de Sancy.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The most important excursion is to the summit of the <b>Pic de</b> +<span class = "pagenum">381</span> +<a name = "page381" id = "page381"> </a> +<!-- png 442 --> +<a name = "pic_sancy" id = "pic_sancy"><b>Sancy</b></a>, 6188 ft. above +the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S. +from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good +bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From +the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on +the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and +shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a +landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a +little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft. +To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated +from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after, +the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea. +A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne, +descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite +are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to +an old alum mine.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of +the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the +infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy +meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here—25 c. charged for +taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20 +minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the +highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that +great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in +circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid +granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount +the <a name = "pic_ferrand" id = "pic_ferrand"><b>Puy Ferrand</b></a>, +6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des +Crètes.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor +hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing +a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to +the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières, +and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two +places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate +the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m. +from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the <a name = "lake_pavin" id = +"lake_pavin"><b>Lac-de-Pavin</b></a>, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the +crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. +long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting +at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are +let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises +the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the +Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of +which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is +Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. <i>Inns:</i> +Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the +neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It +contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one +having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the +town is +<span class = "pagenum">382</span> +<a name = "page382" id = "page382"> </a> +<!-- png 443 --> +the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted +into shops and dwellings.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Murols.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to <a name = "murols" id = +"murols"><b>Murols</b></a>, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway +between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful +views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, +and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (<i>Inn:</i> Nierat, pop. +700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have +escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, +3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important +castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of +Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful +and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the +Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, +and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the +left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the +sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little +farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop. +1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is +11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and +Murols the entire distance is 32 m.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.</span></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +A very pleasant promenade is to the <a name = "salon_capucin" id = +"salon_capucin"><b>Salon du Capucin</b></a>, recommended as well as the +Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If +on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee +cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which +enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone +to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du +Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At +last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where +several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to +the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is +quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to +the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about +2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its +name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille +du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +To go to the <a name = "vallee_denfer" id = "vallee_denfer"><b>Vallée +d’Enfer</b></a> return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which +leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top +of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where +those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have +to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge +between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the +valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, +4¾ m. N.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">383</span> +<a name = "page383" id = "page383"> </a> +<!-- png 444 --> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourboule. Hotels.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "sans"><a name = "bourboule" id = "bourboule"> +BOURBOULE.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of +the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 +ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the +excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of +Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their +especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little +milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at +Mont-Dore.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +<a name = "bourboule_hotels" id = +"bourboule_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—Around the principal +establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand +Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de +¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, +by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; +Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; +Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to +let.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class +prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the +room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge +is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with +wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to +1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th +of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of +September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in +mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon +beforehand it will be much the same.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bourboule_baths" id = +"bourboule_baths"> +<span class = "headnote">Bourboule: Baths. Charges.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, +of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes, +a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of +the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. +Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy +and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of +the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to +31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st +to the 30th September, 2½ frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the +Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and +in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation +or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, +<span class = "pagenum">384</span> +<a name = "page384" id = "page384"> </a> +<!-- png 445 --> +including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that +time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourboule: Springs.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs" id = +"bourboule_springs"> +The Springs.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the +right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, +in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and +Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse. +They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite, +and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water +pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140° +F.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet +discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the +springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°, +mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs +Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as +they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with +wine at dinner.</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_springs_effects" id = +"bourboule_springs_effects"> +Their Constituents and Effects.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a +gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one +half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of +sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the +arseniate of soda (see <a href = "#mont_dore_water">p. 379</a>). +Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their +composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them +applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases +of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all +scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges +from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce +great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin +disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures, +and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous +constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form +of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and +chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule +waters.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Bourboule: Excursions.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bourboule_excursions" id = +"bourboule_excursions"> +Bourboule Excursions.</a></h5> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it +is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the +Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. +from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, +4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit +of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from +the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of +these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">385</span> +<a name = "page385" id = "page385"> </a> +<!-- png 446 --> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to +Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of +basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east +bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path +joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the +forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction, +in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About +1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where +a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade +Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way, +but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble +into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin. +A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the +cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high, +2¼ m. from Bourboule.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule +and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the +summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Saint-Nectaire.</span></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "mont_dore_to_issoire" id = +"mont_dore_to_issoire"> +Mont-Dore to Issoire,</a></h5> + +<p>31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m. +Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. +E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the +Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of +Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, +arrives at <a name = "st_nectaire" id = +"st_nectaire"><b>Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas</b></a>, with a large bathing +establishment. <i>Hotels:</i> Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.</p> + +<p>N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a +large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. +<i>Hotels:</i> Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, +ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and +are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, +and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic +acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.</p> + +<p class = "sidetrip"> +The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of +Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen, +of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant +the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is +Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the +Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended; +whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in +the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves, +3 m. from <a href = "#issoire">Issoire</a> (p. 372).</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">386</span> +<a name = "page386" id = "page386"> </a> +<!-- png 447 --> + +<h4 class = "itinerary"> +Continuation of Route—Clermont to Brive.</h4> + +<p>14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and +68 m. N.E. from Brive, is <a name = "eyguirande" id = +"eyguirande"><b>Eyguirande</b></a>, pop. 1150. Junction here with +loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. +S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s <i>South France</i>, West +Half).</p> + +<p>31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is <a name= +"meymac"><b>Meymac</b></a>, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church, +tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with +loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See +<i>South France</i>, West Half.)</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><span class = "headnote"> +Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.</span></p> + +<p>16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is <a name = +"tulle" id = "tulle"><b>Tulle</b></a>, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze. +<i>Hotels:</i> Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens +are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.</p> + +<p>122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from +Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is <a name = +"brive_la_gaillarde" id = +"brive_la_gaillarde"><b>Brive-la-Gaillarde</b></a>, pop. 12,000, on the +Corrèze. <i>Hotels:</i> Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s <i>South +France</i>, West Half).</p> + + +</div> <!-- end div itinerary --> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<span class = "pagenum">387</span> +<a name = "page387" id = "page387"> </a> +<!-- png 448 --> + +<h3><a name = "index" id = "index"> +INDEX.</a></h3> + +<div class = "mynote"> +<p>When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary +reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are +visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has +been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings, +but the links will still work.</p> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html">Pages 1–106</a> +(paris.html: <b>boldface</b>)<br> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Pages 107–280</a> +(riviera.html: <i>italicized</i>)<br> +Pages 281-end (turin.html, the current file: unmarked)</p> + +<p>Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the +top of the page. Page numbers in <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> indicate columns +in the printed book; the location of the page number—left or right +margin—depends on columns in the e-text.</p> + +<p class = "center"> +<a href = "#index_A">A–Ap</a> +<a href = "#index_A2">Ar–Av</a> +<a href = "#index_B">B–Be</a> +<a href = "#index_B2">Bi–Br</a> +<a href = "#index_C">C–Ce</a> +<a href = "#index_C2">Ch–Cl</a> +<a href = "#index_C3">Co–Cr</a> +<a href = "#index_D">D</a> +<a href = "#index_E">E</a> +<a href = "#index_F">F–Flavigny</a> +<a href = "#index_F2">Florence A-N</a> +<a href = "#index_F3">Florence O-V</a> +<a href = "#index_F4">Fo–Fr</a> +<a href = "#index_G">G–Ge</a> +<a href = "#index_G2">Gi–Gu</a> +<a href = "#index_H">H</a> +<a href = "#index_I">I</a> +<a href = "#index_J">J</a> +<a href = "#index_L">La</a> +<a href = "#index_L2">Le–Lu</a> +<a href = "#index_L3">Lyons</a> +<a href = "#index_M">Ma</a> +<a href = "#index_M2">Me–Mons</a> +<a href = "#index_M3">Mont–Mu</a> +<a href = "#index_N">N–Ne</a> +<a href = "#index_N2">Nice</a> +<a href = "#index_N3">Nicholas–Ny</a> +<a href = "#index_O">O</a> +<a href = "#index_P">P–Pi</a> +<a href = "#index_P2">Po–Pu</a> +<a href = "#index_Q">Q</a> +<a href = "#index_R">R</a> +<a href = "#index_S">S–St. N</a> +<a href = "#index_S2">St. P–San</a> +<a href = "#index_S3">Saou-Su</a> +<a href = "#index_T">T–Turbie</a> +<a href = "#index_T2">Turin</a> +<a href = "#index_U">U</a> +<a href = "#index_V">V–Ve</a> +<a href = "#index_V2">Vi–Vo</a> +<a href = "#index_W">W</a> +</p> + +</div> + +<table class = "index"> +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_A" id = "index_A" href = "#index">A–Ap</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#abries"><span class = "smallcaps">Abries</span> +344</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Acqui 184</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#agay">Agay 147</a></p> +<p><a href = "#aiguebelle">Aiguebelle 289</a></p> +<p><a href = "#aigueperse">Aigueperse 368</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aiguesmortes">Aigues-Mortes +73</a></p> +<p><a href = "#aiguilles">Aiguilles 344</a></p> +<p><a href = "#aime">Aime 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#aix_en_provence">Aix-en-Provence 78</a>, <a href = +"#page338">338</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">olive oil 79</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#aix_les_bains">Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#aix_les_bains_to_geneva"> to Geneva by Annecy 286</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Alacoque, M. M. +27</a></p> +<p><a href = "#alais">Alais 375</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#alan">Alan 49</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alassio">Alassio +208</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albenga">Albenga +208</a></p> +<p><a href = "#albertville">Albertville 320</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page320"> to +Annecy 320</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#albissola">Albissóla +210</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alesia 19</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alessandria">Alessandria +280</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Alise-St. Reine +19</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Allègre 89</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page336">Allevard-les-Bains 336</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Allos 339</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia +279</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Alzon 105</a></p> +<p><a href = "#amberieu">Amberieux 281</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ambert">Ambert 91</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page348">Amplepuis 348</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ampuis">Ampuis 81</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page3">Amyot, Jacques 3</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ancy_le_franc">Ancy-le-Franc +18</a></p> +<p><a href = "#annecy">Annecy 286</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#annonay">Annonay 81</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#antibes">Antibes 169</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">154</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#antraigues">Antraigues +94</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Apricale +201</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">Aps 97</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#apt">Apt 66</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">preserves 66</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_A2" id = "index_A2" href = +"#index">Ar–Av</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Aramon 99</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#arenzano">Arenzano +211</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ardeche">Ardèche sketch of +45</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches to 45</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#map46"> map of 46</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">387b</span> +<a name = "page387b" id = "page387b"> </a> +<!-- png 448 --> + +<p><a href = "#ardes">Ardes 373</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p> +<p><a href = "#arfeuilles">Arfeuilles 346</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arlanc">Arlanc 90</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles">Arles 68</a>, <a href = +"#page376">376</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_fontvieille">to +Fontvieille 71</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_bouc">to Port Bouc +72</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#arles_to_port_st_louis">to Port +St. Louis 72</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">to St. Gilles +72</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">Arma 207</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page86">Arsac 86</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page282">Artemart 282</a></p> +<p><a href = "#arvant">Arvant 373</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aspres">Aspres 48</a>, <a href += "#page345">345</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Astet 89</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#asti">Asti 280</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#aubagne">Aubagne +122</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#aubenas">Aubenas 93</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Aups 145</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#auribeau">Auribeau +156</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#autun">Autun 24</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#auxerre">Auxerre 14</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Avallon 16</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#avenza">Avenza 222</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon">Avignon 58</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_benezet">Benezet’s bridge +63</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page62"> tomb 62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page58">Hotels 58</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_hotel_de_ville">Hôtel de +Ville 61</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_j_s_mill">J. S. Mill’s +tomb 63</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">Laura’s tomb 62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_calvet">Musée Calvet +61</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_musee_requien">Museum of +Natural History 62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_cathedral">Notre Dame des +Doms 60</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_palace">Popes’ palace +58</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_rocher">Rocher des Doms +60</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_agricol">St. Agricol +61</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_dedier">St. <ins class += "correction" title = "spelled ‘Dedier’ in body text">Didier</ins> +62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_joseph">St. Joseph +62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_st_nicolas">St. Nicolas +63</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page62">St. Pierre 62</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_manosque">to Manosque +by Cavaillon 66</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_nimes">to Nîmes +64</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_vaucluse">to Vaucluse +64</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_to_villeneuve">to +Villeneuve 63</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_B" id = "index_B" href = "#index">B–Be</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> + +<span class = "pagenum left">387c</span> +<a name = "page387c" id = "page387c"> </a> +<!-- png 448 --> + +<p><a href = "#bagnols_les_bains"><span class = +"smallcaps">Bagnoles-les-Bains</span> 375</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Bagnoles-sur-Ceze +99</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Bains 91</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Balaruc 76</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Bandols +123</a></p> +<p><a href = "#banges">Banges 285</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Bar 163</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#barcelonnette">Barcelonnette 341</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#barcelonnette_to_cuneo">to Cuneo 341</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#st_paul">to St. Paul 341</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#bardonnecchia"><ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Bardonnechia’">Bardonnecchia</ins> 291</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols">Barjols 143</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barjols_2">167</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#barreme">Barrème +166</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#acqui">Baths—Acqui +184</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#aix_les_bains"> +Aix-les-Bains 283</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#aix_en_provence"> Aix-en-Provence 78</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336"> +Allevard 336</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#bagnols_les_bains"> Bagnols 375</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page76"> Balaruc 76</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#bourboule_baths"> Bourboule 383</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#bourbon_lancy"> +Bourbon-Lancy 358</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#bourbon_larchambault"> Bourbon l’Archambault 357</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page284"> +Challes 284</a>, <a href = "#page288">288</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#chateauneuf"> +Châteauneuf 369</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page369"> +Châtelguyon 369</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#chateldon"> +Chateldon 367</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#cusset"> Cusset +365</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page75"> Foncaude 75</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#greoulx"> Gréoulx 168</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page327"> La +Motte 327</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#lucca_baths"> Lucca 230</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page284"> +Marlioz 284</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_dore"> +Mont-Dore 378</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#neyrac_les_bains"> Neyrac 94</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#pougues_les_eaux"> Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#royat"> Royat +376</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> Sail +348</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> St. +Alban 348</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_galmier"> +St. Galmier 348</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#san_giuliano"> St. Giuliano 227</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page354"> St. +Honoré 354</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_mart"> St. +Mart 377</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_nectaire"> +St. Nectaire 385</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336"> +Uriage 336</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#valdieri"> Valdieri 181, 182</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page103"> Vals 103</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#vichy"> Vichy +359</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page183"> Vinadio 183</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">388</span> +<a name = "page388" id = "page388"> </a> +<!-- png 449 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Beage, Le 84</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Beaucaire 67</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Beauchastel 82</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Beaufort 46</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Beaujolais 29</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#beaulieu">Beaulieu +184</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#beaune">Beaune 23</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">Beaurières 48</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Beausset +123</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#page331">Bec-de-l’Homme 331</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens_becket">Becket, Thomas à +11</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vez_becket">15</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">17</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bedoin">Bedoin 56</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#belgentier">Belgentier +129</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page321">Bellentre 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#belleville">Belleville +29</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Belvedère +181</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_berarde">Berarde 330</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page56">Berlingots 56</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page353">Bernadette Soubirous 353</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lake_berre">Berre 77</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bersezio">Bersezio 342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_bessee">Bessée 344</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux"> +to Mt. Pelvoux 344</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page381">Besse-en-Chandesse 381</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">Beza, T. 15</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_B2" id = "index_B2" href = +"#index">Bi–Br</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#billom">Billom 350</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#blaizy_bas">Blaizy-Bas +20</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bobbio">Bobbio 306</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Bogliasco +219</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Boileau 2</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Bollène 50</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#bologna">Bologna 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Accademia 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_ai_servi">Ai Servi (church) 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_annunziata">Annunziata 320</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page318">Biblioteca Communale 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna">Bolognese school 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna">Cabs 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_certosa">Certosa 320</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_university">Galvani 316</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_guido">Guido’s grave 319</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#madonna_san_luca">Madonna di S. Luca 320</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page316">Mezzofanti 316</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_pal_mercanzia">Pal. Mercanzia 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_pal_zampieri">Pal. Zampieri 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_accademia">Picture gallery 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_bartolommeo">S. Bartolommeo 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_domenico">S. Domenico 319</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_giacomo">S. G. Maggiore 316</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_petronio">S. Petronio 317</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_pietro">S. Pietro 319</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_san_stefano">S. Stefano 318</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page319">S. Vitale 319</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Asinelli 317</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_towers">Torre Garisenda 317</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#bologna_university">University 316</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Bondonneau 49</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">388b</span> +<a name = "page388b" id = "page388b"> </a> +<!-- png 449 --> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bordighera">Bordighera +200</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bormes">Bormes 142</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#borne">Borne 89</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon_bossuet">Bossuet, J. B. +22</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse 113</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page147">Boulerie +147</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bourbon_lancy">Bourbon-Lancy baths 358</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bourbon_larchambault">Bourbon-l’Archambault baths +357</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#bourboule">Bourboule 383</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourdeaux">Bourdeaux 47</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Bourg-Argental +81</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bourg_doisans">Bourg-d’Oisans 329</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> to +Lac Blanc 329</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> to +the Ecrin group 329</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bourgoin">Bourgoin 322</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#bourg_st_andeol">Bourg-St. +Andeol 97</a></p> +<p><a href = "#bourg_st_maurice">Bourg-St. Maurice 321</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_breuil">Breuil, Le 373</a></p> +<p><a href = "#briancon">Briançon 332</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#briancon_to_mont_pelvoux"> to Mt. Pelvoux 333</a>, <a href = +"#page345">345</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#briancon_to_oulx"> to Oulx 333</a></p> +<p><a href = "#briare">Briare 352</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#brignoles">Brignoles +142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page167">167</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Brillane 339</a></p> +<p><a href = "#brioude">Brioude 374</a></p> +<p><a href = "#brive_la_gaillarde">Brive 386</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page287">Brogny 287</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#brunoy">Brunoy 2</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#buffon">Buffon, Comte de +18</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Burgundy wines 22</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">23</a>, <a class = "paris" +href = "paris.html#page24">24</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#busalla">Busalla +279</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page291">Bussoleno 291</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_C" id = "index_C" href = "#index">C–Ce</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cagnes"><span class = +"smallcaps">Cagnes</span> 165</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#callian">Callian +162</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli +278</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page70">Camargue 70</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">72</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Campo-Rosso +201</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes">Cannes 149</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page149">Agents 149</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Adalbert 151</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page159">159</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cap_antibes">Antibes +154</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Auribeau 156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Banks 151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_brougham">Brougham, +Lord 151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page155">155</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_cabs">Cabs 151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Californie +152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_canal">Canal 162</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannet">Cannet 154</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castelaras">Castelaras +156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">Cemetery 152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_churches">Churches +151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Clausonne 154</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_climate">Climate +151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_corniche">Corniche +152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_croisette">Croisette, La +154</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">388c</span> +<a name = "page388c" id = "page388c"> </a> +<!-- png 449 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#croix_des_gardes">Croix des +Gardes 155</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_drives">Drives +152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class = +"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins> +155</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Hesperide 154</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cannes_hotels">Hotels and +Pensions 149</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iron_mask">Iron Mask +157</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">Lerins Islands +156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mont Vinaigre +156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page156">Mouans-Sartoux +156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mougins">Mougins 156</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Cannes—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page154">Napoule 154</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">N. D. +d’Esperance 151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">Observatories +151</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page152">152</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegomas">Pegomas 156</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris_pottery">Pottery +153</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page151">St. Anne 151</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page155">St. Cassien +155</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat +158</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page157">St. Marguerite +157</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Théoule 155</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris +153</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carnoules">Carnoules +142</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#carpentras">Carpentras +54</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Carqueyranne +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Negre +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Mont Paradis +141</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#carrara">Carrara +222</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_casset">Casset, Le 332</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Cassini, G. D. +201</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellane">Castellane +165</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page206">Castellaro +206</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Cavaillon 66</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Cayres 88</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Celles-les-Bains +83</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Cercy-la-Tour 25</a>, +<a href = "#page354">354</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page184">Certosa +184</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Cervo 208</a></p> +<p><a href = "#cesanne">Cesanne 333</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cette">Cette 75</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page76"> to Balaruc 76</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_C2" id = "index_C2" href = +"#index">Ch–Cl</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chablis">Chablis 14</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chabons">Chabons 323</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chagny">Chagny 24</a>, <a href += "#page355">355</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#chaise_dieu">Chaise-Dieu +89</a></p> +<p><a href = "#challes">Challes 284</a>, <a href = +"#page288">288</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#chalon_sur_saone">Chalon-sur-Saône 26</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Chambertin +23</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chambery">Chambery 287</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page380">Chambon 380</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page385">Champeix 385</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Charenton 2</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">Charmes 82</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page288">Charmettes, Les 288</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chateauneuf">Châteauneuf (Riom) 369</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page343">Châteauroux 343</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_chatelard">Châtelard, Le 285</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chateldon">Chateldon 367</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page369">Châtelguyon 369</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Châtillon 47</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">389</span> +<a name = "page389" id = "page389"> </a> +<!-- png 450 --> + +<p><a href = "#page282">Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page351">Châtillon-sur-Loing 351</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page352">Châtillon-sur-Loire 352</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Chavanay 81</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_cheilard">Cheilard +83</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page341">Chenal 341</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#chiavari">Chiavari +220</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chiomonte">Chiomonte 291</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chorges">Chorges 342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page321">Cirque-d’Annibal 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Citeaux abbey +23</a></p> +<p><a href = "#claix">Claix 328</a>, <a href = "#page345">345</a></p> +<p><a href = "#clamecy">Clamecy 354</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#clamecy_2">15</a></p> +<p><a href = "#clelles">Clelles 345</a></p> + + +<p><a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Clermont-Ferrand 369</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page371">Academie 371</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#clermont_botanic">Botanic gardens 371</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#clermont_cathedral">Cathedral 370</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page370">Coaches 370</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#clermont_ferrand">Hotels 369</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#clermont_notre_dame">Notre Dame 371</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page370">Pascal’s house 370</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page371">Peter the Hermit 371</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page370">Preserved fruits 370</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy de Dome 372</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#romagnat">Romagnat 372</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#clermont_to_brive">to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and +Bourboule 376</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#lyons_to_clermont">to Lyons by St. Etienne 349</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#cluny">Cluny 27</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_C3" id = "index_C3" href = +"#index">Co–Cr</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cogoleto">Cogoleto +210</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Cogolin +145</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#col_abries">Col Abriés 307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page183"> Braus 183</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page183"> Brouis 183</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page48"> Cabres 48</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page181"> Cerise 181</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page89"> Chavade 89</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#col_croix"> +Croix 306</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#col_finestra"> Finestra 181</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page181"> Fremamorta 181</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#col_lautaret"> +Lautaret 331</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page341"> +Longet 341</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page342"> +Maddalena 342</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page339"> Maure +339</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page181"> Moulières 181</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page330"> +Muselle 330</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page342"> Mulo +342</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page51"> Ribeyret 51</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#col_sestrieres"> Sestrières 307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page183"> Tenda 183</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#col_traversette"> Traversette 308</a>, <a href = +"#page344">344</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_colla">Colla, La +202</a></p> +<p><a href = "#colmars">Colmars 339</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#collobrieres">Collobrières +130</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#columbus">Columbus +211</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page342">Condamine-Châtelard 342</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_condamine">Condamine, La +189</a></p> +</td> +<td> + +<span class = "pagenum">389b</span> +<a name = "page389b" id = "page389b"> </a> +<!-- png 450 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Condrieu 81</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">wine 81</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cornigliano">Cornigliano +212</a></p> +<p><a href = "#corps">Corps 334</a></p> +<p><a href = "#parma_correggio">Correggio 313</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page230">Corsena +230</a></p> +<p><a href = "#cosne">Cosne 352</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page22">Cote d’Or 22</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#coupe_daizac">Coupe-d’Aizac +94</a></p> +<p><a href = "#courmayeur">Courmayeur 322</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Courpière 91</a></p> +<p><a href = "#courty">Courty 350</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Craponne 89</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page14">Cravant 14</a>, <a href += "#page355">355</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#crest">Crest 46</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#crest_to_aspres"> to Aspres 47</a></p> +<p><a href = "#crissolo">Crissolo 308</a>, <a href = +"#page344">344</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_croisiere">Croisière, La +50</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Croix Blanche +105</a></p> +<p><a href = "#cruseilles">Cruseilles 287</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Cruzy-le-Chatel +18</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuers">Cuers 130</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p> +<p><a href = "main.html#food">Culinary terms xxiii</a></p> +<p><a href = "#culoz">Culoz 282</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cuneo">Cuneo 182</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a>, <a href = +"#page308">308</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#barcelonnette_to_cuneo"> to Barcelonnette 341</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page182"> to Nice 182</a></p> +<p><a href = "#cusset">Cusset 365</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_D" id = "index_D" href = "#index">D</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darcey"><span class = +"smallcaps">Darcey</span> 19</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#darsac">Darsac 89</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page89"> to Chaise-Dieu 89</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page331">Dauphin, Le 331</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Decize 25</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page342">Demonte 342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page288">Dent de Nivolet 288</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page282">Dent-du-Chat 282</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Diano Marina +208</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#die">Die 47</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dieulefit">Dieulefit 47</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#digne">Digne 166</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#digoin">Digoin 358</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#dijon">Dijon 20</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_doctors">Doctors’ +fees 110</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Dolce-Acqua +201</a></p> +<p><a href = "#domene">Domène 336</a></p> +<p><a href = "#dompierre_sur_bebre">Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#donzere">Donzère 50</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page287">Doussard 287</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#draguignan">Draguignan +145</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page287">Duingt 287</a></p> +<p><a href = "#duke_berwick">Duke of Berwick 356</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Duranus +180</a></p> +<p><a href = "#durtol">Durtol 377</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_E" id = "index_E" href = "#index">E</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">Eaux Chaudes +166</a></p> +<p><a href = "#embrun">Embrun 343</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page330">Enchastraye 330</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Entraque +181</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Epinac 24</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page165">Escragnolles +165</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">389c</span> +<a name = "page389c" id = "page389c"> </a> +<!-- png 450 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#espaly">Espaly 89</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lestaque">Estaque, L’ +80</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#esterel"><ins class = +"correction" title = "main text has ‘Estérel’">Estérels</ins> 156</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page146">146</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#etang">Etang 25</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page286">Eugene Sué 286</a></p> +<p><a href = "#eyguirande">Eyguirande 386</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#eze">Eze 186</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_F" id = "index_F" href = "#index">F</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">Fayence +145</a></p> +<p><a href = "#fenestrelle">Fenestrelle 307</a></p> +<p><a href = "#feurs">Feurs 346</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#fiesole">Fiesole +276</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#finalmarina">Finalmarina +209</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fix_st_geneys">Fix-St. Geneys +91</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#flavigny">Flavigny 19</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_F2" id = "index_F2" href = "#index">Florence +(A-N)</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence">Florence</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page233">233</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_fine_arts">Academy of +Fine Arts</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page271">271</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">Alkermes 268</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#alvernia">Alvernia</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Amerigo Vespucci +275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page248">Arcetri 248</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Arezzo 279</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_la_badia">Badia, +La</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">263</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_baptistery">Baptistery</a> <a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page256">256</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">Bargello</a> <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Bello +Sguardo</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page250">250</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">Bibbiena 279</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_laurentiana">Bibliotheca Laurentiana</a> <a class += "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page266">266</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_national_library"> Nazionale 236</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bigallo">Bigallo, +Il</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page257">257</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_boboli">Boboli +Gardens</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page246">246</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_brancacci">Brancacci +chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page252">252</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#sta_maria_brunelleschi">Brunelleschi’s crucifix</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page268">268</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cabs">Cab tariff</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#camaldoli">Camaldoli</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">278</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_campanile">Campanile</a> <a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page255">255</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page276">Cascine 276</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Cathedral</a> <a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_certosa">Certosa</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page250">250</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_croce_dante">Dante</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page258">258</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page272">David, by Michael +Angelo 272</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Donatello’s crucifix +260</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">Duomo</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">252</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Florence—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna">Galileo 247</a>, <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">260</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Galleria +Uffizi</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page237">237</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Gallery of +mosaics</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hints">Guide +books</a> <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page255">Hawkwood, John +255</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hospital">Hospital +St. Giovanni</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page275">275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_hotels">Hotels and +apartments 233</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">House of Amerigo +Vespucci 275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_dante_house"> of Dante 274</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_galileo_house"> of Galileo 248</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">390</span> +<a name = "page390" id = "page390"> </a> +<!-- png 451 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page247"> of Macchiavelli 247</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_michelangelo_house"> of Michael Angelo +263</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#sta_croce_ketterick">Ketterick, John</a> <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">259</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_loggia_orcagna">Loggia Orcagna 235</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page263">Luca della Robbia +ware 263</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page252">Masaccio 252</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Money-changers +234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_monte_oliveto">Monte +Oliveto</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page251">251</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mortuary">Mortuary +chapel</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page255">255</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_mosaics">Mosaic +manufacture</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page273">273</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_etruscan">Museum of +Etruscan Antiquities</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page267">267</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_natural_history"> Nat. Hist. 247</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_national_museum">National Museum</a> <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">261</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_niobe">Niobe +242</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_F3" id = "index_F3" href = "#index">Florence +(O-V)</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p>Florence—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Ognissanti +275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">Or St. +Michele 257</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_palaces">Palaces +273</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pal_corsini">Palazzo +Corsini 275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_pal_riccardi"> Riccardi 275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_pal_strozzi"> Strozzi 275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_pal_torrigiani"> Torrigiani 276</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_pal_vecchio"> Vecchio 274</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_park">Park +276</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page260">Pazzi chapel +260</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page259">Perazzi chapel +259</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">Piazza S. +Annunziata 269</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_piazza_sta_croce"> S. Croce 258</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_piazza_signoria"> Signoria 235</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_piaz_michelangiolo">Piazzale Michelangiolo +249</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_marco_gallery">Picture +gallery of S. Marco 270</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_pitti_gallery">Pitti +gallery 243</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_pal_pitti"> palace 246</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pontassieve +278</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_galileo_house">Porta +Romana 248</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page236">Post office +236</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page275">Prefettura della +Provincia 275</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Protestant churches +234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page239">Raphael 239</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page261">Refectory of S. Croce +261</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Restaurants +234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sta_maria_rucellai">Rucellai +chapel 268</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Florence—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_sagrestia_nuova">Sagrestia Nuova 265</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_annunziata">S. +Annunziata 268</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_sta_croce">S. Croce +258</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_giovannino">S. +Giovannino 264</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_lorenzo">S. +Lorenzo 264</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_marco">S. Marco +270</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_del_carmine">S. Maria +del Carmine 252</a></p> +<span class = "pagenum">390b</span> +<a name = "page390b" id = "page390b"> </a> +<!-- png 451 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_cathedral">S. Maria +del <ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘Fiori’">Fiore</ins> +252</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_sta_maria_novella"> Novella 267</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_michele">S. +Michele 257</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_san_miniato">S. +Miniato 249</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_santo_spirito">S. +Spirito 251</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page269">Sarto, Andrea del +269</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page270">Savonarola +270</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page234">Sights 234</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_spezeria">Spezeria +268</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page277">Straw-plaiting +277</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_torre_gallo">Torre +del Gallo 248</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#uffizi_tribuna">Tribuna +238</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_galileo_tribuna"> di Galileo 247</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_uffizi">Uffizi +gallery 237</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#florence_to_vallombrosa">Vallombrosa 278</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page238">Venus de Medici +238</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#florence_bello_sguardo">Views +250</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_F4" id = "index_F4" href = +"#index">Fo–Fr</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Foncaude baths +75</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fontainebleau">Fontainebleau +3</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Fontana +183</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">Fontenay abbey +19</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Forcalqueiret +129</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#fos">Fos 76</a></p> +<p><a href = "#fourchambault">Fourchambault 353</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page331">Freaux, Les 331</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#frejus">Frejus 146</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_freney">Freney, Le 331</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#frontignan">Frontignan +75</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">salt 75</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_G" id = "index_G" href = "#index">G–Ge</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Gallinaria +208</a></p> +<p><a href = "#gannat">Gannat 368</a></p> +<p><a href = "#gap">Gap 340</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#gap"> to +Barcelonnette 340</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#gap_to_grenoble"> to Grenoble 342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page374">Garabit, Pont de 374</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gardanne">Gardanne 142</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a href = +"#page338">338</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#gardanne_to_carnoules"> to Carnoules 142</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa">Genoa 212</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page279">279</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Accademia 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Acquasola 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_albergo_poveri">Albergo +dei Poveri 218</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cabs">Cabs 213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cafes">Cafés 213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_campo_santo">Campo-Santo +218</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_cathedral">Cathedral +217</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Corsos 213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">English church +212</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Hotels 212</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Money-changers +213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Palazzo Adorno +216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page215"> Balbi 215</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_pal_doria"> Doria 214</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span> <span class = +"dash">——</span> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page216"> (Giorgio) 216</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Genoa—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_pal_ducal">Palazzo Ducal +217</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">390c</span> +<a name = "page390c" id = "page390c"> </a> +<!-- png 451 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_pal_durazzo"> Durazzo 215</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_municipio"> Municipicio 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_pal_rosso"> Rosso 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_pal_serra"> Serra 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#genoa_pal_spinola"> Spinola 216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page216">Post office +216</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page214">Royal Palace +214</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_ambrogio">S. +Ambrogio 217</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_annunziata">S. +Annunziata 215</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_sta_maria">S. Maria in +Carignano 218</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_matteo">S. Matteo +217</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_san_siro">S. Siro +215</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Shops 212</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_steamers">Steamers</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Telegraph office +213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Valdensian church +212</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page213">Via Circonvallazione +213</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_via_milano">Via Milano +214</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#gerbier_de_joncs">Gerbier-de-Joncs 84</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#gevrey_chambertin">Gevrey +23</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_G2" id = "index_G2" href = +"#index">Gi–Gu</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giandola">Giandola +183</a></p> +<p><a href = "#gien">Gien 351</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens">Giens 140</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_chateau">Le Chateau +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#giens_saltworks">Salt works +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Semaphore 141</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#gieres">Gières 336</a></p> +<p><a href = "#gilly">Gilly 358</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#givors_canal">Givors-Canal +81</a>, <a href = "#page349">349</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page337">Gleyzin glacier 337</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#golf_jouan">Golf Jouan +169</a></p> +<p><a href = "#goncelin">Goncelin 336</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page131">Gonfaron +131</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page163">Gourdon +163</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page324">Grand Som 324</a></p> +<p><a href = "#grande_chartreuse">Grande-Chartreuse 323</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_grande_combe">Grande Combe 375</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grasse">Grasse 160</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_grave">Grave, La 331</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#grenoble">Grenoble 324</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_bastile">Bastile 325</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_bayard">Bayard 325</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_coaches">Coaches 325</a>, <a href = +"#page327">327</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_gloves">Gloves 327</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble">Hotels 324</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_library">Library 326</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_gallery">Picture gallery 326</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_st_andre">St. André 325</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page327">St. Laurent 327</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page341">to Barcelonnette 341</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_to_briancon">to Briançon 328</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#grenoble_to_corps">to Corps 333</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#gap_to_grenoble">to Gap 342</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">391</span> +<a name = "page391" id = "page391"> </a> +<!-- png 452 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page327">to La Motte-les-Bains 327</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page327">to Sassenage 327</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#greoulx">Gréoulx +167</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#grignan">Grignan 49</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">Grimaud +144</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page354">Guerigny 354</a></p> +<p><a href = "#guillestre">Guillestre 344</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_H" id = "index_H" href = "#index">H</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page284"><span class = "smallcaps">Hautecombe +Abbey</span> 284</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Hermitage wine +43</a></p> +<p><a href = "#hospice">Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres">Hyères 133</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Banks 133</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#hyeres_butterflies">Butterflies</a> <a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cabs">Cabs 134</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#hyeres_caterpillar">Caterpillars</a> <a class = "riviera" +href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Charles of Anjou +136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">Château, Le +136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_climate">Climate +140</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page134">Clubs 134</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_cork">Cork trees</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_costebelle">Costebelle +136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_drives">Drives +134</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">English Pharmacy +133</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Episcopal Chapel +133</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mt_fenouillet">Fenouillet, +Mont 137</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Game 138</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Hermitage 136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_hotels">Hotels +133</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Hyères—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Jardin +d’Acclimatation 136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page140">La Plage 140</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map129">Map 129</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massillon">Massillon +135</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Napoleon I. +136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_oiseaux">Oiseaux Monts +<ins class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘128’">138</ins></a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive trees +138</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page108">Palm sticks +108</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">Palms 136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">Paradis Mont +141</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">Pauline, La +142</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_pipes">Pipes +139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Potence 139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Productions +139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_louis">St. Louis</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page136">136</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_st_paul">St. Paul</a> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page135">135</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_coaches">Stage +coaches</a> <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page134">134</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page133">Temple Protestant +133</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page139">Town water +139</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trou_fees">Trou des Fées +138</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hyeres_chateau">View from Le +Château 137</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_I" id = "index_I" href = "#index">I</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins"><span class = +"smallcaps">Iles de Lerins</span> 157</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_dor">Iles d’Or +131</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_baths">Il Serraglio +230</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">391b</span> +<a name = "page391b" id = "page391b"> </a> +<!-- png 452 --> + +<p><a href = "#issoire">Issoire 372</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page385">coach to St. Nectaire 385</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#isola_buona">Isola Buona +201</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#istres">Istres 76</a></p> +<p><a href = "#map291">Italian railway terms and time-tables 291</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">200</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_J" id = "index_J" href = "#index">J</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#jaujac"><span class = +"smallcaps">Jaujac</span> 95</a></p> +<p><a href = "#jausiers">Jausiers 342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Javie 339</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret_jean_sans">Jean-Sans-Peur +10</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page20">20</a>, <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#page22">22</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#joigny">Joigny 14</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">Jouques 79</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Joyeuse 96</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_L" id = "index_L" href = "#index">La</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#la_balme"><span class = "smallcaps">La Balme</span> +282</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">La Barben 79</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page375">La Bastide 375</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">La Begude 93</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">La Bollene +181</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page306">La Chalp 306</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_chambre">La Chambre 289</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_charite">La Charité 352</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_ciotat">La Ciotat +122</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_crau">La Crau +130</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">La Garde 128</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page130">130</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">La Garde +Fraiseinet 144</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page141">La Madrague +141</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page344">La Monta 344</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">La Mothe 94</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_palisse">La Palisse 346</a>, <a href = +"#page368">368</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_pauline">La Pauline +142</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_roche">La Roche 14</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page334">La Salle 334</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_salette">La Salette 334</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">La Sauvetat 88</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_seyne">La Seyne +123</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_valette">La Valette +128</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">La Voulte 82</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lachamp_raphael">Lachamp-Raphael 84</a></p> +<p><a href = "#laffrey">Laffrey 333</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#lagnieu">Lagnieu 282</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page208">Laigueglia +208</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Lake Allos 339</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page286"> +Annecy 286</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page282"> +Bourget 282</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page323"> +Paladru 323</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#lake_pavin"> +Pavin 381</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page76"> Thau 76</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">Lamartine 27</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lambesc">Lambesc 80</a></p> +<p><a href = "#langeac">Langeac 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#langeac_2">91</a></p> +<p><a href = "#langogne">Langogne 375</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page95">95</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#le_puy_to_langogne"> to Le Puy 88</a></p> +<p><a href = "#lans_le_bourg">Lans-le-Bourg 290</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lantosque">Lantosque +180</a></p> +<p><a href = "#laqueuille">Laqueuille 377</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to +Mont-Dore, 377</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#laqueuille"> to +Bourboule, 377</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page342">Larche 342</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">391c</span> +<a name = "page391c" id = "page391c"> </a> +<!-- png 452 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#largentiere">Largentière +96</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page14"> to Les Laumes 14</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#larzac">Larzac 106</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#laudun">Laudun 99</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page323">Laurent-du-Pont 323</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page331">Lauzet 331</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_lauzet">Lauzet, Le 341</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page143">Lavandou +143</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_L2" id = "index_L2" href = +"#index">Le–Lu</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page57">Le Barroux 57</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_beage">Le Beage 84</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_bouchet">Le Bouchet +88</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_buis">Le Buis 57</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_creusot">Le Creusot +25</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Le Monastier +85</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Le Pal 96</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Le Peage de Roussillon +43</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Le Pouzin 92</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_puy">Le Puy 86</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Le Teil 93</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Le Trayas +149</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#leghorn">Leghorn +226</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lemons">Lemons 191</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page194">194</a>, <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Lerici 221</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_arcs">Les Arcs +145</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_baux">Les Baux 67</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page85">Les Etables 85</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page330">Les Etages 330</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#les_laumes">Les Laumes +19</a></p> +<p><a href = "#les_marches_1">Les Marches 289</a>, <a href = +"#les_marches_2">338</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Les Piles 51</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page72">Les Saintes Maries +72</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#les_salins">Les Salins +141</a></p> +<p><a href = "#leschaux">Leschaux 287</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levant">Levant, Ile du +132</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#levens">Levens 180</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#limone">Limone 183</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lisle">L’Isle 64</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page329">Livet 329</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#livron">Livron 46</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page209">Loano 209</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lorgues">Lorgues +145</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page356">Lord Clarendon 356</a></p> +<p><a href = "#lovagny">Lovagny 286</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_luc">Luc 144</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca">Lucca 227</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page227">Cabs 227</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_cathedral">Cathedral +228</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_hotels">Hotels +227</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_gallery">Picture gallery +228</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#lucca_san_frediano">S. +Frediano 229</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page229">S. Michele +229</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#luc_en_diois">Luc-en-Diois +48</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lunel">Lunel 72</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">wine 73</a></p> +<p><a href = "#lurs">Lurs 339</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page305">Luserna 305</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">Luzy 25</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_L3" id = "index_L3" href = "#index">Lyons</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> + +<span class = "pagenum left">392</span> +<a name = "page392" id = "page392"> </a> +<!-- png 453 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons">Lyons 29</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page33">Antiquaille Hospital +33</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page34">Aqueduct 34</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Boats, Penny +31</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_bourse">Bourse 38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cabs">Cabs 30</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cathedral">Cathedral +34</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_cheese">Cheese 42</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_soies">Condition des Soies +37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Distances 29</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">First sewing-machine +38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Flourvière 32</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_origin">History 41</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Hospice 39</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotel_ville">Hôtel de Ville +37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_hospital"> Dieu 39</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_hotels">Hotels 29</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page42">Ile Barbe 42</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page38">Jacquard’s loom 38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_library">Libraries 37, +38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_minerals">Minerals +37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page41">Mont Ceindre 41</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_mont_dor"> d’Or 42</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_archeologique">Musée +Archéologique 36</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page40"> Guimet 40</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_lapidaire"> Lapidaire 35</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_silk_museum"> of Silk 38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_notre_dame">Notre Dame +33</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Lyons—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_observatoire_gay">Observatoire Gay 33</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">Palais de Justice +35</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#lyons_beaux_arts"> des Beaux Arts 35</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_park">Park 40</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_gallery">Picture gallery +36</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_terreaux">Place des Terreaux +37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_post">Post office 30</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">Préfecture 37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_stations">Railway station +30</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Bruno 37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_irenee">St. Irénée +34</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_martin">St. Martin +d’Ainay 39</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Nizier 35</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_st_paul">St. Paul 33</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page35">St. Pierre 35</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page37">St. Polycarpe 37</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_sights">Sights 32</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_silk_museum">Silk museum +38</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page32">Squares (Places) +32</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_steamers">Steamers +31</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Tête d’Or 40</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_theatres">Theatres +31</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_to_nimes">to Nîmes +81</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#lyons_tramways">Trams 31</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page40">Weavers 40</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page39">Workhouse (Hospice) +39</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_M" id = "index_M" href = "#index">Ma</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#macon"><span class = +"smallcaps">Macon</span> 26</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">wines 24</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">392b</span> +<a name = "page392b" id = "page392b"> </a> +<!-- png 453 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Maisons-Alfort 2</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#malaucene">Malaucene 57</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#manosque">Manosque 168</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">66</a>, <a class = +"riviera" href = "riviera.html#page166">166</a>, <a href = +"#page339">339</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#marcols">Marcols 84</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page284">Marlioz 284</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles">Marseilles +111</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#marseilles_note">80</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Anglican chapel +112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_arc_triomphe">Arc +de Triomphe 116</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">Biblothèque +117</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Bishop Belsunce +116</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Boats 112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page113">Bonneveine +113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bouillabaisse">Bouillabaisse +113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_bourse">Bourse +116</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_cabs">Cabs +111</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page77">Canal 77</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_cathedral">Cathedral 115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Charities 119</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Château +Borely 113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_commerce">Commerce +120</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_consigne">Consigne +115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_corniche">Corniche +113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_custom_house">Custom-house 112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page117">École des Beaux Arts +117</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_history">History +120</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotel_ville">Hôtel +de Ville 115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_hotels">Hotels +111</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#island_if">If, island of +118</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_industries">Industries 119</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Marseilles—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Joliette 115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page119">Lazarus’s grave +119</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_lycee">Lycée +117</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseillaise">Marseillaise, +the 120</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page118">Martigues 118</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Money-changers +112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_borely">Musée +d’Archéologie 113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_notre_dame">Notre +Dame 117</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Observatory +115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Palais de Justice +116</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_longchamp"> Longchamp 114</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Port 115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page116">Préfecture +116</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Reservoir 115</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_st_victor">St. +Victor 117</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_sights">Sights +112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#marseilles_steamers">Steamboats 112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page112">Temple 112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page338">to Grenoble 338</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_to_menton">to +Menton 112</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#marseilles_trams">Trams +113</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page115">Zoological garden +115</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#page341">Martinet 341</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page124">Mary Magdalene +124</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page145">145</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#massa">Massa 223</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page341">Maurin 341</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#mayres">Mayres 94</a>, <a class += "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_M2" id = "index_M2" href = +"#index">Me–Mons</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#meana">Meana 291</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page331">Meije 331</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#melun">Melun 2</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page287">Menthon 287</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">392c</span> +<a name = "page392c" id = "page392c"> </a> +<!-- png 453 --> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton">Menton 193</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#annonciade"><ins class = +"correction" title = "spelled ‘Annonciade’ in main text">Annunciata</ins> 196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_banks">Banks +194</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#bennet_garden">Bennet garden +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Berceau 196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_cabs">Cabs 194</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cape_st_martin">Cape St. +Martin 195</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellar">Castellar +196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#castellon">Castellon <ins +class = "correction" title = "text reads ‘197’">199</ins></a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page195">Caves 195</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_churches">Churches +194</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_ciotti">Ciotti +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_climate">Climate +199</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#gorbio"><ins class = +"correction" title = "spelled ‘Gorbio’ in main text">Gorvio</ins> +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page197">Gourg-d’Ora +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_grimaldi">Grimaldi +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#hanbury_grounds">Hanbury +grounds 197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#menton_hotels">Hotels +193</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page196">Mont Baudon +196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monti">Monti 198</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_mortola">Mortola +197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnese +196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page197"> (village) 197</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pont_st_louis">St. Louis +196</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#map199">to Genoa 199</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#meounes">Meounes +129</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meursault">Meursault 24</a></p> +<p><a href = "#meymac">Meymac 386</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#meyrargues">Meyrargues +80</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page76">Meze 76</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page84">Mezillac 84</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page338">Mirabeau 338</a></p> +<p><a href = "#mirabouc">Mirabouc 306</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#miramas">Miramas 76</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#miramas_to_portbouc"> to Port Bouc 76</a></p> +<p><a href = "#modane">Modane 290</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#modane_to_susa"> by road to Susa 290</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#modena">Modena 313</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page314">Campanile 314</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#modena_cathedral">Cathedral 314</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#modena_library">Library 314</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page315">Museo Lapidario 315</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page314">Picture gallery 314</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#moirans">Moirans 324</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco">Monaco 187</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_monastier">Monastier, Le +85</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mondovi">Mondoví 184</a>, +<a href = "#page304">304</a></p> +<p><a href = "#monestier_de_clermont">Monestier de Clermont 345</a></p> +<p><a href = "#le_monetier">Monètier de Briançon 332</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page23">Monge, Gaspard +23</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#monistrol">Monistrol-d’Allier +91</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mons">Mons cave 163</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_M3" id = "index_M3" href = +"#index">Mont–Mu</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page192">Mont Agel +192</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page105"> Aulas 105</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page19"> Auxois 19</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page336"> +Belledonne 336</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_cenis"> +Cenis 290</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span> <span class = +"dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_cenis"> Hospice 290</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page93"> Chenavari 93</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#mont_coudon"> Coudon 128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#mont_coudon_2">125</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#mont_faron"> Faron 127</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">393</span> +<a name = "page393" id = "page393"> </a> +<!-- png 454 --> + +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page331"> +Ferrand 331</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page333"> +Genèvre 333</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page372"> +Gergovia 372</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page79"> Grand Sambiu 79</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page96"> Gravenne 96</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page305"> +Meidassa 305</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#mont_mezenc"> Mezenc 85</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#mont_pelvoux"> +Pelvoux 345</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a>, <a href = +"#page344">344</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page348"> Pilat +348</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page291"> +Pirchiriano 291</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page278"> Protomagno 278</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#pic_sancy"> +Sancy 381</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page287"> +Semnoz 287</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> +Taillefer 329</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#mont_ventoux"> Ventoux 57</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page56">56</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page96"> Vestide 96</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> Viso 344</a>, <a href = +"#page305">305</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page88">Montagnac 88</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page281">Montallieu 281</a></p> +<p><a href = "#montargis">Montargis 351</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Montauroux +162</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montbard">Montbard 18</a></p> +<p><a href = "#montbrison">Montbrison 349</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montchanin">Montchanin +25</a></p> +<p><a href = "#mont_dore">Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to Issoire 385</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#mont_dore_to_issoire"> to St. Nectaire 385</a></p> +<p><a href = "#mont_dauphin">Mont Dauphin 343</a>, <a href = +"#page306">306</a>, <a href = "#page307">307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#mont_dauphin_to_saluzzo"> to Saluzzo 344</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monaco_monte_carlo">Monte +Carlo 189</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#monte_carlo_stn">192</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page210">Monte Grosso +210</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montelimart">Montélimart +48</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montereau">Montereau 10</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montgeron">Montgeron 2</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montmajour">Mont-Majour +71</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montmelian_desc">Montmélian +167</a>, <a href = "#montmelian_stn">289</a>, <a href = +"#page338">338</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier">Montpellier +73</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_botanic">École de +Médecine 74</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpellier_fabre">Musée Fabre +74</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">to Palavas 75</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">wine 75</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#montpezat">Montpezat 96</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#montrieux">Montrieux +129</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#moret">Moret 10</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page46">Mornas 46</a></p> +<p><a href = "#moulins">Moulins 355</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#les_moulins">, Les 190</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#moustiers_ste_marie">Moustiers Ste. Marie 167</a></p> +<p><a href = "#moutiers">Moutiers on Doron 320</a></p> +<p><a href = "#la_mure_1">Mure, La 334</a>, <a href = +"#la_mure_2">342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#murols">Murols 382</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_N" id = "index_N" href = "#index">N–Ne</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page64">Napoleon I. 64</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#napoule">Napoule +156</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Narce 89</a>, <a class += "paris" href = "paris.html#page94">94</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nervi">Nervi 219</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page374">Neussargues 374</a></p> +<p><a href = "#nevers">Nevers 353</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#neyrac_les_bains">Neyrac +94</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_N2" id = "index_N2" href = "#index">Nice</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice">Nice 169</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Banks 172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Booksellers +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cabs">Cabs 173</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Cafés 172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Carabacél 177</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#caterina_segurana">Caterina +Segurana 176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Cathedral 176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page175">Château, Le +175</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Churches +173</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#cimies">Cimiés 177</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_climate">Climate +174</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_cafes">Clubs 172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page177">Column 177</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Confectioneries 173</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#contes">Contes 174</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#nice_croix_marbre">Crois-de-Marbre 177</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_diligences">Diligences +173</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_drives">Drives +178</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page180">Falicon 180</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Garibaldi 176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_hotels">Hotels and +Pensions 170</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">House agents +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Jardin Public +178</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Nice—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Luther 176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_massena">Massena +177</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_memorial_chapel">Memorial +chapel 176</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">393b</span> +<a name = "page393b" id = "page393b"> </a> +<!-- png 454 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Money-changers +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page179">Mont Chauve +179</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Monte Carlo +178</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">Museum 178</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_observatory">Observatory +180</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Paganini 176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">Palais de Lascaris +176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_booksellers">Pharmacies +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_banks">Post office +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_promenade">Promenade +175</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_churches">Protestant +churches 173</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page172">Public library +172</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#grotte_st_andre">St. André +179</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page176">St. Augustin +176</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">St. Jean 178</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_pons">St. Pons 179</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#val_obscur">Val Obscur +178</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallon_fleurs">Vallon des +Fleurs 179</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallons">Vallons 174</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#nice_villa_clery">Villa Clery +179</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche +184</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page178">178</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_N3" id = "index_N3" href = +"#index">Nicholas–Ny</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Nicholas V. +221</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Nieigles 95</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nimes">Nîmes 101</a>, <a href = +"#nimes_stn">376</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#nimes_to_millau"> to Vigan 105</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Nolay 24</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#noli">Noli 209</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#novi">Novi 279</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nuits">Nuits 23</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#nuits_sous_ravieres">Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#nyons">Nyons 50</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#nyons_to_serres"> to Serres 51</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_O" id = "index_O" href = "#index">O</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<span class = "pagenum left">393c</span> +<a name = "page393c" id = "page393c"> </a> +<!-- png 454 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page83">Olbon 83</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Olliergues 91</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">Ollioules +123</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page138">Olive tree +138</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#orange">Orange 51</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#prince_orange"> Prince of 52</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#orcival">Orcival 380</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Orgon 66</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ortolans">Ortolans 56</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ospedaletti">Ospedaletti +202</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">201</a></p> +<p><a href = "#oulx">Oulx 291</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ours_mons">Ours-Mons 88</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_P" id = "index_P" href = "#index">P–Pi</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page75">Palavas 75</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Paradisino +278</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#paray_le_monial">Paray-le-Monial 27</a></p> +<p><a href = "#paris_to_lyons_st_etienne">Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne +346</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles 1</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> Directions 1</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#paris_to_marseilles_clermont"> to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes +351</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#paris_to_marseilles"> to Marseilles by Lyons 1</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#paris_to_turin"> to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#paris_to_modane_lyons"> to Turin by Grenoble 322</a></p> +<p><a href = "#parma">Parma 310</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page313">Parmesan cheese 313</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pas_des_lanciers">Pas-des-Lanciers 376</a>, <a class = +"paris" href = "paris.html#page80">80</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page88">88</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pegli">Pegli 211</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page278">Pelago 278</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Pelussin 81</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Perinaldo +201</a></p> +<p><a href = "#perosa">Perosa 307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#perosa_to_cesanne"> to Cesanne 307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#perosa_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont-Dauphin 307</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pertuis">Pertuis 338</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#pertuis_2">77</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#petite_afrique">Petite +Afrique 186</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#avignon_petrarch">Petrarch +65</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrebelle">Peyerbelle 95</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">89</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyraud">Peyraud 81</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#peyrolles">Peyrolles 79</a></p> +<p><a href = "#piacenza">Piacenza 309</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pian_fiorenza">Pian Fiorenza 308</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#pian_del_re"> +del Ré 308</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page334">Pierre-Chatel 334</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pierrefeu">Pierrefeu +130</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pietrasanta">Pietrasanta +223</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pigna">Pigna 201</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pinerolo">Pinerolo 306</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa">Pisa 223</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_baptistery">Baptistery +225</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Cabs 224</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_campo_santo">Campo Santo +225</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_cathedral">Cathedral +224</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">Hotels 223</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_leaning_tower">Leaning +Tower 225</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">394</span> +<a name = "page394" id = "page394"> </a> +<!-- png 455 --> + +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page224">Post office +224</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pisa_sta_maria">Santa Maria +226</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page226">University +226</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pistoja">Pistoja +231</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_P2" id = "index_P2" href = +"#index">Po–Pu</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Polignac 89</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page307">Pomaretto 307</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pomponiana">Pomponiana +143</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Pontaix 47</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#pontassieve">Pontassieve +277</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#pont_avignon">Pont Avignon +99</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#pont_darc"> d’Arc 97</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page95"> de-la-Beaune 95</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#pont_du_gard"> du-Gard 104</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page329"> +Ecofier 329</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page377"> +Gibaud 377</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#pont_st_esprit"> St. Esprit 98</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#pontcharra">Pontcharra 337</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Pontigny 16</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Pontius Pilate +43</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porquerolles">Porquerolles +131</a></p> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#port_bouc">Port Bouc 76</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span> <span class = +"dash">——</span> <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#port_bouc_to_arles"> to Arles 76</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#port_cros"> Cros 132</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page73"> Grau du Roi 73</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#port_man"> Man 132</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#port_st_louis"> St. Louis 72</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#porto_maurizio">Porto +Maurizio 207</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#oneglia"> Oneglia 208</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page220"> Venere 220</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Portofino +220</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pougues_les_eaux">Pougues-les-Eaux 352</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pouilly_sur_loire">Pouilly-sur-Loire 352</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">Pourcheyrolles +95</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_pouzin">Pouzin 92</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page211">Pra 211</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page89">Pradelles 89</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page95">95</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#prades">Prades (Ardèche) +95</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#prato">Prato 232</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page289">Praz 289</a></p> +<p><a href = "#pre_st_didier">Pré-St Didier 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Prices +109</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#privas">Privas 92</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page80">Puget, Pierre +80</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#puget_theniers">Puget-Theniers 182</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Puligny 24</a></p> +<p><a href = "#puy_de_dome">Puy-de-Dome 372</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_Q" id = "index_Q" href = "#index">Q</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#queyras"><span class = "smallcaps">Queyras</span> +344</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page18">Quincy abbey 18</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_R" id = "index_R" href = "#index">R</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#randan"><span class = "smallcaps">Randan</span> 366</a>, +<a href = "#page368">368</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#rapallo">Rapallo +220</a></p> +<p><a href = "#reggio_emilia">Reggio Emilia 313</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#remoulins">Remoulins 99</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#resin_baths">Resin baths +57</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">48</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rians">Rians 79</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riez">Riez 166</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">168</a></p> +<p><a href = "#riom">Riom 369</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page329">Riouperoux 329</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Rioutort 96</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">394b</span> +<a name = "page394b" id = "page394b"> </a> +<!-- png 455 --> + +<p><a href = "#ris">Ris 367</a></p> +<p><a href = "#rives">Rives 323</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html">Riviera, the 107</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_climate">Climate +108</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_cost_living">Cost of +living 109</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#to_riviera">road to 1</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_vegetation">Vegetation +108</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#roanne">Roanne 346</a>, <a href = "#page348">348</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Robilante +183</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page160">Rocavignon +160</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#la_roche_cevins">Roche Cevins 320</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rochemaure">Rochemaure +92</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roche_blanche"><ins class = +"correction" title = "written ‘Roche-Blanche’ in main text">Rocher +Blanc</ins> 164</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#rocher_noir"> Noir 165</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#rognac">Rognac 77</a>, <a href += "#page376">376</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page77"> to Aix-en-Provence 77</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page77"> to Roquefavour 77</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#romaneche">Romaneche 28</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Roquebillère +181</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#roquebrune">Roquebrune +192</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquefavour">Roquefavour +aqueduct 77</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#roquemaure">Roquemaure +99</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page162">Roquotaillado +tunnel 162</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Rosans 51</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page168">Roumoulles +168</a></p> +<p><a href = "#chambery_rousseau">Rousseau, J. J. 288</a>, <a href = +"#page287">287</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Rouvray 16</a></p> +<p><a href = "#royat">Royat 376</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ruoms">Ruoms 96</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page201">Ruota 201</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_S" id = "index_S" href = "#index">S–St. +N</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page47">Saillans 47</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page348">Sail-les-Bains 348</a></p> +<p><a href = "#saincaize">Saincaize 355</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page358">St. Agnan 358</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_agnes">St. Agnes +131</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page348">St. Alban 348</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">St. Ambroix 96</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_andre_le_gaz">St. André-le-Gaz 322</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#st_andre_le_gaz"> to Chambery 322</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_auban">St. Auban 339</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page166">166</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ste_baume">St. Baume (Agay) +147</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page144"> (Bouches du Rhône) 144</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page27">St. Bernard 27</a>, +<a href = "#page287">287</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page79">St. Cannat 79</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_cesaire">St. Cesaire +162</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_chamas">St. Chamas 76</a>, +<a href = "#page376">376</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_christophe">St. Christophe 330</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Cyre +123</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_didier">St. Didier +57</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page17">St. Edmund 17</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_etienne">St. Etienne 346</a>, <a href = +"#page349">349</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#st_etienne">manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and +ribbons 346</a>, <a href = "#page347">347</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#ste_eulalie">St. Eulalie +96</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_florentin">St. Florentin +16</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page16"> to Chablis 16</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#st_galmier">St. Galmier 346</a>, <a href = +"#st_galmier_desc">348</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">394c</span> +<a name = "page394c" id = "page394c"> </a> +<!-- png 455 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_georges_daurac">St. +Georges-d’Aurac 91</a>, <a href = "#st_georges_daurac_stn">374</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page321">St. Germain 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_germain_mont_dor">St. +Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_germain_fosses">St. Germain-des-Fossés 358</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_gilles">St. Gilles +72</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_honorat">St. Honorat +158</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page354">St. Honoré baths 354</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page25">St. Honoré-les-Bains +25</a>, <a href = "#page354">354</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#port_st_jean">St. Jean +185</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page106">St. Jean du Bruel +106</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page13">St. Julien-du-Sault +13</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page73">St. Louis (king) +73</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Marcel caves +98</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_marcellin">St. Marcellin 324</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#st_marcellin"> +to Pont-en-Royan, 324</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#iles_lerins">St. Marguerite +157</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_mart">St. Mart 377</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">St. Martin 98</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_martin_lantosque">St. +Martin-Lantosque 181</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">St. Maurice 2</a>, +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">50</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_maximin">St. Maximin +143</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">St. May 51</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page122">St. Menet +122</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_michel">St. <ins class = "correction" +title = "spelled ‘Michel’ in main text">Michael</ins> (Mont Cenis) 289</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page123">St. Nazaire +123</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_nectaire">St. Nectaire 385</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_S2" id = "index_S2" href = "#index">St. +P–San</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#st_pardoux">St. Pardoux 357</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">St. Paul-Trois-Château +50</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_peray">St. Péray 82</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page82">wine 82</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page15">St. Pêre 15</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_pierre_dalbigny">St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#st_pierre_dalbigny"> to Annecy 289</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#st_pierre_to_courmayeur"> to Courmayeur 320</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page48">St. Pierre-d’Argenson +48</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_pierreville">St. Pierreville +83</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page144">St. Pilon +144</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page341">St. Pons 341</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_priest">St. Priest 322</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">St. Privat 91</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_rambert">St. Rambert-d’Albon +43</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_raphael">St. Raphael +147</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_remi_en_rollat">St. Remi-en-Rollat 368</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_remy">St. Remy 67</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#st_sauveur">St. Sauveur +83</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page19">St. Seine 19</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page97">St. Thomé 97</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_tropez">St. Tropez +145</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_vallier">St. Vallier +165</a>, <a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">43</a></p> +<p><a href = "#st_yorre">St. Yorre 366</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page66">Salon 66</a></p> +<p><a href = "#saluzzo">Saluzzo 307</a>, <a href = +"#page344">344</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#saluzzo"> to +Cuneo 307</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#saluzzo_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 308</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page308"> to +Paesana 308</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page308"> to +Sampeyre 308</a>, <a href = "#page344">344</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">395</span> +<a name = "page395" id = "page395"> </a> +<!-- png 456 --> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page212">Sampierdarena +212</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page291">San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page308">San Chiaffredo 308</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page308">San Dalmazzo 308</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_giuliano">San Giuliano +227</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo">San Remo +203</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_cabs">Cabs +203</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ceriana">Ceriana 204</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_climate">Climate +204</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_remo_hotels">Hotels +203</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#madonna_della_guardia">Madonna +205</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#monte_bignone">Monte Bignone +205</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#poggio"><ins class = +"correction" title = "text reads ‘Poggia’">Poggio</ins> 204</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#san_romolo">St. Romolo +205</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#san_remo_to_taggia"> to Taggia 207</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page207">San Stefano +207</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">San Terenzo +221</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page352">Sancerre 352</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#santa_margherita">Santa +Margherita 220</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_S3" id = "index_S3" href = +"#index">Saou–Su</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#saou">Saou 46</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sarzana">Sarzana +221</a></p> +<p><a href = "#sassenage">Sassenage 327</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page105">Sauclières 105</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Saugues 91</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page16">Saulieu 16</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page373">Saut-du-Loup 373</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page24">Savigny 24</a></p> +<p><a href = "#savines">Savines 343</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona">Savona 209</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#riviera_sea_bathing">Sea +bathing 110</a></p> +<p><a href = "#sechilienne">Séchilienne 329</a></p> +<p><a href = "#seez">Seez 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#seine_source">Seine, source of +19</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#semur">Semur 16</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#senez">Senez 166</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sens">Sens 10</a></p> +<p><a href = "#sept_laux">Sept Laux 337</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sermizelles">Sermizelles +15</a></p> +<p><a href = "#serres">Serres 340</a>, <a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page51">51</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page81">Serrières 81</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page220">Sestri Levante +220</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#sestri_ponente"> Ponente 212</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#settignano">Settignano +277</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Seyne-les-Alpes 339</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page221">Shelley 221</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page223">223</a></p> +<p><a href = "#sisteron">Sisteron 339</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#six_fours">Six-Fours +123</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sollies_pont">Solliès-Pont +142</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">129</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page129">Solliès-Ville +129</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page142">142</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#sorgues">Sorgues 54</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#sospel"><ins class = +"correction" title = "written ‘Sospel’ in main text">Sospello</ins> +182</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#loire_source">Source of the +Loire 84</a></p> +<p><a href = "#souvigny">Souvigny 356</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#spezia">Spezia 220</a></p> +<p><a href = "#steam_trams">Steam trams 304</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Sue du Pal 96</a></p> +<p><a href = "#susa">Susa 291</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page50">Suze-le-Rousse +50</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_T" id = "index_T" href = +"#index">T–Turbie</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> + +<span class = "pagenum left">395b</span> +<a name = "page395b" id = "page395b"> </a> +<!-- png 456 --> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#taggia"><span class = +"smallcaps">Taggia</span> 207</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#page206">206</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tain">Tain 43</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page286">Talloires 286</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tanlay">Tanlay 17</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tarascon">Tarascon 66</a>, +<a href = "#tarascon_stn">376</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page67">Martha’s grave 67</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page49">Taulignan 49</a></p> +<p><a href = "#les_tavernettes">Tavernettes, Les 290</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#le_teil">Teil 93</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page282">Tenay 282</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#tenda">Tenda 183</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page290">Termignon 290</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#theoule">Theoule +155</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page99">Thezièrs 99</a></p> +<p><a href = "#thiers">Thiers 367</a>, <a href = "#thiers_2">350</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page10">Thomery 10</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#thueyts">Thueyts 94</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page321">Thuile 321</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tonnerre">Tonnerre 17</a></p> +<p><a href = "#torrepellice">Torre-Péllice 305</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#torrepellice_to_mont_dauphin"> to Mont Dauphin 306</a></p> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Toulon 124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_arsenal">Arsenal +125</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page125">Bagne 125</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Balaguier 127</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Belle-Poule +124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Cap Brun 128</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_cathedral">Cathedral +126</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Dardenne 128</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Toulon—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_diligences">Diligences +129</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Hotels 124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">Le Pradet 128</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page127">Le Tamaris +127</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#mont_faron">Mont Faron +127</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_omnibus">Omnibuses +128</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#toulon_place_puget">124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_quai_port">Port, the +124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Puget’s house +126</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Rue Lafayette +126</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">St. François de Paule +126</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#st_mandrier">St. Mandrier +127</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page128">St. Marguerite +128</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page126">Smith, Sir Sydney +126</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon">Temple Protestant +124</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#toulon_town_hall">Town Hall +126</a></p> + +<p><a href = "#page322">Tour-du-Pin 322</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournon">Tournon 82</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#tournus">Tournus 26</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#le_trayas">Trayas, Le +148</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#trets">Trets 144</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page29">Trévoux 29</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = +"riviera.html#trinite_victor">Trinité-Victor 182</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troy_weight">Troy weight +13</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#troyes">Troyes 11</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#truffles">Truffles 55</a></p> +<p><a href = "#tulle">Tulle 386</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#la_turbie">Turbie, La +192</a>, <a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page191">191</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_T2" id = "index_T2" href = "#index">Turin</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> + +<span class = "pagenum left">395c</span> +<a name = "page395c" id = "page395c"> </a> +<!-- png 456 --> + +<p><a href = "#turin">Turin 292</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page300">Accademia Albertina 300</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_armoury">Armoury 297</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page297">Biblioteca del Ré 297</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Booksellers 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_cabs">Cabs 292</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page293">Cafés 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_castello">Castello, the 299</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_cathedral">Cathedral 298</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_sights">Cavour house 294</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#turin_monuments"> +monument 301</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_cemetery">Cemetery 302</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_madre_di_dio">Gran Madre di Dio 300</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page303">Gressini 303</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_hotels">Hotels 292</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_royal_palace">King’s palace 298</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_la_consolata">La Consolata 301</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page297">Medagliere del Ré 297</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_booksellers">Money-changers 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_monuments">Monuments 301</a>, <a href = +"#turin_stations">293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_museo_civico">Museo Civico 299</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_pal_accademia">Museum of antiquities and picture +gallery 294</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Museum of zoology and mineralogy +297</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Turin—</p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_pal_carignano">Palazzo Carignano 297</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#turin_sights"> +dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page301"> di Citta +301</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page293">Piazza Carlo Felice 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page293"> dello +Statuto 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = "#page293"> San +Carlo 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#turin_piazza_vitt_em"> Vitt. Emanuele 300</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_post">Post and telegraph offices 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_stations">Railway stations 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_la_superga">Superga, La 302</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#page298">Teatro Regio 298</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_theatres">Theatres 293</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page153">to Cuneo 153</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_to_florence">to Florence 309</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#genoa_to_turin">to Genoa +279</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#savona_to_turin">to Savona +183</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_cabs">Trams 292</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_university">University 300</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_via_po">Via di Po 300</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#turin_wines">Wines 303</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_U" id = "index_U" href = "#index">U</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page341"><span class = "smallcaps">Ubaye</span> +341</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page336">Uriage baths 336</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page96">Usclades 96</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#uzes">Uzès 99</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_V" id = "index_V" href = "#index">V–Ve</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaison"><span class = +"smallcaps">Vaison</span> 53</a></p> +<p><a href = "#val_louise">Val Louise 333</a>, <a href = +"#val_louise_2">345</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page98">Valbonne 98</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">396</span> +<a name = "page396" id = "page396"> </a> +<!-- png 457 --> + +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#valdieri">Valdieri 181</a>, +<a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page182">182</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valence">Valence 44</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#valence_coaches"> coaches from 45</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallauris">Vallauris +154</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valleraugue">Valleraugue +105</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vallombrosa">Vallombrosa +278</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vallon">Vallon 97</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#valreas">Valréas 49</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vals">Vals 93</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#var">Var 169</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#varazze">Varazze +210</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#varennes">Varennes 26</a></p> +<p><a href = "#varzy">Varzy 354</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page381">Vassivières 381</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vaucluse">Vaucluse 64</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page43">Vaugris 43</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#velars">Velars 20</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page181">Venanson +181</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence">Vence 163</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vence_cagnes">Vence-Cagnes +169</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#vencigliato">Vencigliato +277</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page330">Venosc 330</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#ventimiglia">Ventimiglia +200</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Vernet 91</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span> (<a href = +"#page339">Digne) 339</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum">396b</span> +<a name = "page396b" id = "page396b"> </a> +<!-- png 457 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#verrey">Verrey 19</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page93">Vesseaux 93</a></p> +<p><a href = "#veynes">Veynes 340</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vezelay">Vezelay 15</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_V2" id = "index_V2" href = +"#index">Vi–Vo</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#viareggio">Viareggio +223</a></p> +<p><a href = "#vichy">Vichy 359</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vienne">Vienne 42</a></p> +<p><a href = "#vif">Vif 345</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vigan">Vigan 105</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#page105"> to Millau 105</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villa_pallavicini">Villa +Pallavicini 211</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page331">Villard-d’Arène 331</a></p> +<p><a href = "#villefort">Villefort 375</a></p> +<p><span class = "dash">——</span><a href = +"#bagnols_les_bains"> to Bagnol-les-Bains 375</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#villefranche">Villefranche +184</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#villefranche_saone">Villefranche-sur-Saône 29</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page51">Villeperdrix 51</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page344">Ville-la-Vieille 344</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#villeneuve_avignon">Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Hospital 63</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page63">Marchioness de Ganges +63</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#villeneuve_george">Villeneuve-St. George 2</a></p> + +<span class = "pagenum left">396c</span> +<a name = "page396c" id = "page396c"> </a> +<!-- png 457 --> + +<p><a class = "paris" href = +"paris.html#villeneuve_yonne">Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#page183">Vinadio 183</a>, +<a href = "#page342">342</a></p> +<p><a href = "#virieu">Virieu 322</a></p> +<p><a href = "#virieu_le_grand">Virieu-le-Grand 282</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#viviers">Viviers 97</a></p> +<p><a href = "#vizille_1">Vizille 345</a>, <a href = +"#vizille_2">328</a>, <a href = "#page333">333</a></p> +<p><a href = "#voghera">Voghera 309</a></p> +<p><a href = "#voiron">Voiron 323</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#voiron">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323</a></p> +<p><a class = "riviera" href = "riviera.html#voltri">Voltri 211</a></p> +<p><a href = "#volvic">Volvic 377</a>, <a href = +"#volvic_desc">369</a></p> +<p><a href = "#page339">Volx 339</a></p> +<p><a href = "#voreppe">Voreppe 324</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +<a href = "#voreppe">coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#vougeot">Vougeot 23</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#la_voulte">Voulte, La +82</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page91">Voute-Chilhac +91</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "letterhead" colspan = "2"> +<a name = "index_W" id = "index_W" href = "#index">W</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><a href = "#waldensian_doctrines"><span class = +"smallcaps">Waldenses, or Vaudois</span> 305</a></p> +<p><a href = "#waldenses">Waldensian valleys 304</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p><a href = "#page286">Warrens, Mme. 286</a>, <a href = +"#page288">288</a></p> +<p><a class = "paris" href = "paris.html#page2">Wellington 2</a></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> <br> </p> + +<h6>THE END.</h6> + +<p> <br> </p> + +<p class = "center"> +<i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. & R. Clark</span>, +Edinburgh.</i></p> + + +</body> +</html> |