diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 4 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-0.txt | 2549 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-0.zip | bin | 52601 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h.zip | bin | 466250 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/60009-h.htm | 3185 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 91184 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/frontis.jpg | bin | 96242 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i001.jpg | bin | 3544 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i002.jpg | bin | 43055 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i003.jpg | bin | 3390 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i012.jpg | bin | 32250 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i013.jpg | bin | 3826 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i021.jpg | bin | 22668 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i022.jpg | bin | 3942 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i041.jpg | bin | 35678 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/i042.jpg | bin | 3361 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/60009-h/images/title.jpg | bin | 81720 -> 0 bytes |
19 files changed, 17 insertions, 5734 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c61efb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #60009 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60009) diff --git a/old/60009-0.txt b/old/60009-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 9c06936..0000000 --- a/old/60009-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2549 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: The Philosophy of Beards - A Lecture: Physiological, Artistic & Historical - -Author: Thomas S. Gowing - -Release Date: July 29, 2019 [EBook #60009] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEARDS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - PRICE ONE SHILLING. - - ------- - - The Philosophy of Beards. - - ------- - - Physiological, Artistic & Historical. - - by - - T. S. Gowing. - - Ipswich. - - Published by J. Haddock. - - London: - - T. T. Lamare, 2, Oxford Arms Passage. - Paternoster Row - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -[Illustration: - - The Ape and the Goat -] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - Preface. - - ------- - - -THE following Lecture, the first I believe on the specific subject, met -with a warm reception from a numerous and good-humoured auditory; and -received long and flattering notices from the local papers, “the Ipswich -Journal,” and “the Suffolk Chronicle.” My enterprising and liberal -publisher, has thought it worthy of more extended circulation. May the -public think with him, and take it off his hands as freely as he has -taken it off mine! - -I have modified the passages which referred to the illustrations; the -greater portion of which it would, independently of expense, have been -impossible to give with any effect on a small scale. Mr. F. B. Russel, -(to whom with his worthy brother artist, Mr. Thomas Smyth, I was -indebted for the original design,) has, with a kindness I can better -appreciate than acknowledge, anastaticized the humorous drawing of the -ape and the goat, (page 21,) with which their joint talents enriched my -Lecture. Mr. Russel has also very skilfully introduced into the title -page, reduced copies of the three view’s of the Greek head of Jupiter, -referred to at page 14. - -Since its delivery, many notes have been added to the Lecture, which it -is hoped will afford both amusement and information. It now only remains -for me to make my bow, wish my “_fratres barbati_,” long life to their -Beards, and shout - - - Vivat Regina! - - Floreat Barba! - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - The Philosophy of Beards. - - - -------------- - - - - - INTRODUCTION. - - -OUR most universal and most imaginative Poet, whose single lines are -often abstracts and epitomes of poems, makes Hamlet exclaim—“What a -piece of work is man! How noble in reason! how infinite in faculties! in -form and moving, how express and admirable! in action, how like an -angel! in apprehension, how like a God! the beauty of the world! the -paragon of animals!” And yet this same glorious creature, thus worthily -praised, is, with singular contradiction, so forgetful of his higher -attributes, that he can despise his reason! ignore his infinite -faculties! deliberately deface that form so express and admirable! -descend to actions that smack rather of the demon than the angel! Drown -his godlike apprehension in drink! Shave off his majestic beauty! and -become, instead of the paragon—the parody of animals! - -O Fashion! most mighty, but most capricious of goddesses! what strange -vagaries playest thou with the sons and daughters of men! What is there -so lovely, that thou canst not, with a word, transform into an object of -disgust and abhorrence? What so ugly and repulsive, but thou hast the -art to exalt it into a golden image for thy slaves to worship, on pain -of the fiery furnace of ridicule? Could a collection be made of the -forms and figures, modes and mummeries, which thou hast imposed on thy -ofttimes too willing votaries, it would task the most vivid imagination, -the most fantastic stretch of fancy, to furnish a description of the -incongruous contents! - -Perhaps no human feature has been more the subject of Fashion’s -changeable humours than the BEARD, of which it is purposed to night to -render some account, in the hope of being able to prove that in no -instance has she been guilty of more deliberate offences against nature -and reason! With this object in view, the structure, intention, and uses -of the Beard will be examined, and its artistic relations indicated; its -history will next be traced; and a reply will then be briefly given to -some objections against wearing the Beard, not embraced in the preceding -matter. - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - I. PHYSIOLOGY. - - ------- - - -A QUAINT old Latin author asks, “What is a Beard? Hair? and what is -Hair? a Beard?” Perhaps a Beard may be defined more clearly by stating, -that in its full extent it comprehends all hair visible on the -countenance below the eyes, naturally growing down the sides of the -face, crossing the cheeks by an inverted arch, fringing the upper and -lower lips, covering the chin above and below, and hanging down in front -of the neck and throat:—moustaches and whiskers being merely parts of a -general whole. The hair of the head differs from that of the Beard. In -an enlarged microscopical view, the former is seen to resemble a -flattened cylinder, tapering off towards the extremity. It has a rough -outer bark, and a finer inner coat; and contains, like a plant, its -central pith, consisting of oil and coloring matters. At the lower part -it is bulbous, and the pith vessels rest on a large vesicle. The bulb is -enclosed in a fold of the skin, and imbedded in the sebaceous glands. -The root is usually inserted obliquely to the surface. Avoiding further -detail, let me at once direct your attention to the circumstance, that -whereas the hair of the head is only furnished with one pith tube, that -of the Beard, is provided with two.[1] Is not this a striking fact to -commence with? and does it not at once suggest that this extra provision -must have a special purpose? It has, as we shall presently see; and only -now add, that the hairs of the Beard are more deeply inserted and more -durable; flatter, and hence more disposed to curl. - -Footnote 1: - - Vide Hassell’s Microscopic Anatomy. Haller says “Withof calculated - that the hair of the Beard grows at the rate of 1½ line in the week, - which is 6½ inches in the year, and by the time a man reaches eighty, - 27 feet will have fallen under the edge of the razor.” - -As the Beard makes its appearance simultaneously with one of the most -important natural changes in man’s constitution, it has in all ages been -regarded as the ensign of manliness. All the leading races of men, -whether of warm or cold climates, who have stamped their character on -history—Egyptians, Indians, Jews, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, -Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Celts, Turks, Scandinavians, Sclaves—were -furnished with an abundant growth of this natural covering. Their -enterprizes were accordingly distinguished by a corresponding vigour and -daring. The fact, too, is indisputable, that their hardiest efforts were -cotemporaneous with the existence of their Beards; and a closer -investigation would show that the rise and fall of this natural feature -has had more influence on the progress and decline of nations, than has -hitherto been suspected. Though there are _individual_ exceptions, the -absence of Beard is usually a sign of physical and moral weakness; and -in degenerate tribes wholly without, or very deficient, there is a -conscious want of manly dignity, and contentedness with a low physical, -moral, and intellectual condition. Such tribes have to be sought for by -the physiologist and ethnologist; the _historian_ is never called upon -to do honor to their deeds. Nor is it without significance that the -effeminate Chinese have signalized their present attempt to become once -more free men, instead of tartar tools—by a formal resolve to have done -with pigtails, and let their hair take its natural course over head and -chin.[2] - -Footnote 2: - - The whiskers of Confucius are said to be preserved as relics in China. - -But the hair does not merely act as an external sign; it has, or it -would not be there, its own proper and distinct functions to perform. -The most important of these is the protection of some of the most -susceptible portions of our frame from cold and moisture—those fruitful -sources of painful, and often fatal, disease. And what more admirable -contrivance could be thought of for this purpose than a free and -graceful veil of hair—a substance possessing the important properties of -power to repel moisture, and to serve as a non-conductor of heat and -electricity. - -Let me now show you what lies underneath the surface naturally covered -by the Beard. We have first that ganglion or knot, the seat of the -exquisitely painful affection tic doloureux. From it you will perceive -white threads of nerves radiating to the jaws precisely in the line -protected by the Beard. As you contemplate it, you can hardly fail to be -struck with the fact, that in shaving may sometimes originate that local -paralysis which disfigures the corners of the mouth. Next we have the -nerves of the teeth, which all know to be so affected by changes of -temperature. - -Glance now, if you please, at those glands which secrete and elaborate -the lymph which is to form part of the circulating fluid, and in which -scrofula often has its origin, and some say its name. They are -peculiarly liable to be affected by cold and moisture, presenting then -those well-known unsightly swellings about the neck: they therefore -receive an extra protection, the hair usually growing much more thickly -on the parts where they are met with than elsewhere. - -There are another set of glands, the sebaceous, which are thickly -concentrated on the chin. Now shaving is the cause that the hairs on -this part are liable to a peculiar and very irritating disease, which -imparts a kind of foretaste of purgatory to many unfortunate victims of -that unnatural practice. Those with strong beards most righteously -suffer the most; for the more efficient the natural protection is, the -greater is also the folly of its removal. - -Lastly, there are the tonsils, and the glands of the throat and larynx. -Few require to be told how common at present are acute and chronic -affections of these parts. - -That the Beard was intended as a protection to the whole of them, any -one may satisfy himself by wearing it and then shaving it off in cold or -damp weather. If not inclined to try this experiment, and mind I do not -recommend it, perhaps the following evidence will be sufficiently -convincing. Firstly, the historical fact that the Russian soldiers, when -compelled to shave by Peter the Great, suffered most severely. Secondly, -the medical testimony extracted from the Professional Dictionary of Dr. -Copeland, one of the first Physicians of the day, where it is stated, -“Persons in the habit of wearing long Beards, have often been affected -with rheumatic pains in the face, or with sore throat on shaving them -off. In several cases of chronic sore throat, wearing the Beard under -the chin, or upon the throat, has prevented a return of the complaint.” -Thirdly, the fact that several persons in this town (Ipswich) have been -so cured. And lastly, this brief but important testimony of the men of -the Scottish Central Railway, dated Perth, 24th August, 1853. - - “We, the servants of the Scottish Central Railway, beg to inform - you, that having last summer seen a circular recommending the - men employed upon railways to cultivate the growth of their - Beards, as the best protection against the inclemency of the - weather, have been induced to follow this advice; and the - benefit we have derived from it, induces us to recommend it to - the general adoption of our brothers in similar circumstances - throughout the kingdom. We can assure them, from our own - experience, that they will by this means be saved from the bad - colds and sore throats of such frequent occurrence without this - natural protection.” - - Signed by 5 Guards, 1 Inspector of Police, - 2 Engine Men, and 1 Fireman. - -Let us next see, for it is a highly interesting point in a -consumption-breeding climate like ours, where thousands of victims -annually die, _how_ the entrances to the air passages and lungs are -protected by the upper part of the beard—the moustache. We draw air in -commonly through the nose, and breathe it out through the mouth: though -occasionally the two passages exchange functions. In a section of the -nose, the interior of the nostril is seen to communicate, by a slightly -curved passage, with the back entrance to the mouth and throat. Now as -the incoming air must follow the direction of the draught, you will -readily perceive that any air entering by the nostrils must pass through -or over the hair of the moustache, and be warmed in the passage: and -when the air makes its way by the mouth, it must pass under the -moustache and be warmed, like that under the eaves of a thatched roof. - -The moustache, however, not merely warms the inspired air, but filters -it from superfluous moisture, dirt, dust, and smoke; and soon we trust -it will be deemed as rational to deprive the upper lip of its protecting -fringe, as to shave the eyebrows or pluck out the eyelashes.[3] - -Footnote 3: - - I can from personal experience state, that being subject when younger - to swelling of the upper lip from cold, previous to entering - Switzerland I allowed my moustache to grow. During six weeks excursion - on foot, exposed to all weathers and stopping for none, being at one - moment in warm valleys and a few hours afterwards at the top of - ice-clad mountains, I never felt the least uncomfortableness about the - mouth. When on returning home, however, I was foolish enough to shave, - I paid dearly for the operation. - -Those to whom the extent of preventible disease among our -artizans—disease arising solely from their employments is unknown, I -must refer to Mr. Thackrah’s book on that specific subject. Scientific -ingenuity had long attempted to devise contrivances to relieve the men -from some of these diseases; but the schemes were found too cumbrous, or -otherwise impracticable. As so often happens, what _men_ were profoundly -searching for, _nature_ had placed directly under their noses. Mr. -Chadwick, to whom the public are indebted for much valuable information -on questions connected with the public health, and Dr. Alison, of -Glasgow, one of whom had seen the particles of iron settling on and -staining the Beards of foreign smiths; and the other had noticed the -dusty Beards of foreign masons when at work, were led to the conclusion, -independently of each other, that the iron and stone dust were much -better deposited on the Beard (whence they could be washed), than in the -lungs, where they would be sure to cause disease. The lungs of a mason -for instance are preserved in Edinburgh, which are one concrete mass of -stone. These gentlemen published their convictions; and through the -beneficial agency of the press, that information, aided by papers in the -“Builder,” and in “Dickens’s Household Words,” soon found its way to our -artizans, many of whom have tried the experiment, and borne testimony to -its satisfactory results. At this juncture, let us also hope that the -reiterated opinions of eminent Army Surgeons will at length be listened -to, and the British Soldier be freed from the apoplectic leathern stock, -and allowed to wear that protection which nature endowed him with. To -the latter the most rigid economist cannot object, since it will add -nothing to the estimates, while it will enable the soldier to offer, if -not a bolder, at least a more formidable front, to the foe, and save him -from many of the hazards of the march in which more die than on the -field of battle! - -Though the subject has as yet received too little scientific attention, -there can be no doubt that the hair generally has a further important -function to perform in regulating the electricity which is so intimately -connected with the condition of the nerves. - -I have reserved to the last the curious fact, which in itself is -perfectly conclusive as to the protecting office of the Beard, and -explains why its hair has additional provision for its nourishment; and -this fact is, that while the hair of the head usually falls off with the -approach of age, that of the Beard, on the contrary, continues to _grow_ -and _thicken_ to the latest period of life. He must be indeed insensible -to all evidence of design, who does not acknowledge in this a wise and -beneficent provision, especially when he connects with it the other -well-known fact, that the skull becomes denser, and the brain less -sensitive, while the parts shielded by the Beard are more susceptible -than ever, and have less vitality to contend with prejudicial -influences. - -Before proceeding further it may be as well briefly to answer the -question, why, if Beards be so necessary for men, women have no -provision of the kind? The reason I take to be this, that they are -women, and were consequently never intended to be exposed to the -hardships and difficulties men are called upon to undergo. Woman was -made a help meet for man, and it was designed that man should in return, -protect her to the utmost of his power from those external circumstances -which it is his duty boldly to encounter. Her hair grows naturally -longer, and in the savage state she is accustomed to let it fall over -the neck and shoulders. The ancient Athenian and Lombard women are even -said to have accompanied their husbands to the battle-field with their -hair so arranged as to imitate the Beard. In more civilized society, -various contrivances are resorted to by the gentler sex for protection, -which would be utterly unsuitable to the sterner. In saying this I do -not include the present absurd bonnet, which seems purposely contrived -to expose rather than shield the fair, and to excite our pity and cause -us to tremble while we cannot but admire! - -Two curious exceptional cases of bearded women must not be passed over; -one, that of a female soldier in the army of Charles XII, who was taken -at the battle of Pultowa, where she had fought with a courage worthy of -her Beard: the other, that of Margaret of Parma, the celebrated Regent -of the Netherlands, who conceived that her Beard imparted such dignity -to her appearance, that she would never allow a hair of it to be -touched. - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - II. ARTISTIC DIVISION. - - -NOT only was the Beard intended to serve the important purposes just -described; but, combining beauty with utility, to impart manly grace and -free finish to the male face. To its picturesqueness Poets and Painters, -the most competent judges, have borne universal testimony. It is indeed -impossible to view a series of bearded portraits, however indifferently -executed, without feeling that they possess dignity, gravity, freedom, -vigour, and completeness; while in looking on a row of razored faces, -however illustrious the originals, or skilful the artists, a sense of -artificial conventional bareness is experienced. - -Addison gives vent to the same notion, when he makes Sir Roger de -Coverley point to a venerable bust in Westminster Abbey, and ask -“whether our forefathers did not look much wiser in their Beards, than -we without them?” and say, “for my part, when I am in my gallery in the -country, and see my ancestors, who many of them died before they were of -my age, I cannot forbear regarding them as so many old Patriarchs, and -at the same time looking upon myself as an idle smock-faced young -fellow. I love to see your Abrahams, your Isaacs, and your Jacobs, as we -have them in the old pieces of tapestry, with Beards below their girdles -that cover half the hangings.” The knight added, “if I would recommend -Beards in one of my papers, and endeavour to restore human faces to -their ancient dignity, upon a month’s warning he would undertake to lead -up the fashion himself in a pair of whiskers.” In reference to this last -allusion it may be as well to state, that the word whisker is frequently -used by earlier authors to denote the moustache, and that in Addison’s -time, a mass of false hair was worn, and the head and face close shaven. - -To shew that it is the Beard alone that causes the sensation we have -alluded to, look at two drawings on exactly the same original outline, -of a Greek head of Jupiter, the one with, the other without the Beard! -What say you? Is not the experiment a sort of “occular demonstration” in -favor of nature, and a justification of art and artists? See how the -forehead of the bearded one rises like a well-supported dome—what depth -the eyes acquire—how firm the features become—how the muscular -angularity is modified—into what free flowing lines the lower part of -the oval is resolved, and what gravity the increased length given to the -face imparts. - -As amusing and instructive pendants, take two drawings of the head of a -lion, one with and the other without the mane. You will see how much of -the majesty of the king of the woods, as well as that of the lord of the -earth, dwells in this free flowing appendage. By comparing these -drawings with those of Jupiter, you will detect, I think, in the head of -the lion whence the Greek sculptor drew his ideal of this noble type of -godlike humanity. - -Since this idea struck me, Mr. John Marshall, in a lecture at the -Government School of Practical Art, has remarked, “that nature leaves -nothing but what is beautiful uncovered, and that the masculine chin is -seldom sightly, because it was _designed to be covered_, while the chins -of women are generally beautiful.” This view he supported by instancing, -“that the bear, the rabbit, the cat, and the bird, are hideous to look -upon when deprived of their hairy and feathery decorations: but the -horse, the greyhound, and other animals so sparingly covered that the -shape remains unaltered by the fur, are beautiful even in their naked -forms.” This argument, it seems to me, applies with greater force to the -various ages of man. In the babe, the chin is exceedingly soft, and its -curve blends into those of the face and neck: in the boy it still -retains a feminine gentleness of line, but as he advances to the youth, -the bones grow more and more prominent, and the future character begins -to stamp itself upon the form: at the approach of manhood, the lines -combining with those of the mouth become more harsh, angular, and -decided; in middle age, various ugly markings establish themselves about -both, which in age are rendered not only deeper, but increased in number -by the loss of the teeth and the falling in of the lips, which of course -distorts all the muscles connected with the mouth. Such, however, is the -force of prejudice founded on custom, that people who sink themselves to -the ears in deep shirt collars, and to the chin in starched cravat and -stiffened stock, muffle themselves in comforters till their necks are as -big as their waists; nay do not demur some of them to be seen in that -abomination of ugliness—that huge black patch of deformity—a respirator, -have still sufficient face left to tell us that the expression of the -countenance would be injured by restoring the Beard! - -A word, therefore, on the expression of Bearded faces. The works of the -Greeks,[4] the paintings of the old Masters, but above all the -productions of the pencil of Raphael, justly styled “the Painter of -Expression,” is a sufficient general answer to this ill-considered -charge. It would indeed be strange if He who made the male face, and -fixed the laws of every feature—clothing it with hair, as with a -garment, should in this last particular have made an elaborate provision -to mar the excellency of His own work! Nothing indeed but the long -effeminizing of our faces could have given rise to the present shaven -ideal—to the forgetfulness of the true standard of masculine beauty of -expression, which is naturally as antipodal as the magnetic north and -south poles, to that of female loveliness, where delicacy of line, -blushing changeable colour, and eyes that win by seeming not to wish it, -are charms we all feel, and at the same time understand how -inappropriate they are when applied to the opposite sex; where the bold -enterprizing brow—the deep penetrating eye—the daring, sagacious nose, -and the fleshy but firm mouth, well supported on the decided projecting -chin, proclaim a being who has an appointed path to tread, and hard -rough work to do, in this world of difficulties and ceaseless -transition. - -Footnote 4: - - Elmes says, “The Beard in Art has an ideal character as an attribute, - and distinguished by its undulating curl the Beard of Jupiter Olympius - from that of Jupiter Serapis (who has a longer and straighter Beard) - the lank Beard of Neptune and the river Gods, from the short and - frizzly Beards of Hercules, Ajax, Diomede, Ulysses, &c.” - -So much for the general charge; if we examine the separate features, -there can be no question that the upper part of the face—the most -godlike portion—where the mind sits enthroned, gains in expression by -the addition of and contrast with the Beard; the nose also is thrown -into higher relief, while the eyes acquire both depth and brilliancy. -The mouth, which is especially the seat of the affections, its -surrounding muscles rendering it the reflex of every passing emotion, -owes its general expression to the line between the lips—the key to -family likeness; and this line is more sharply defined by the shadow -cast by the moustache, from which the teeth also acquire additional -whiteness, and the lips a brighter red. Neither the mouth nor chin are, -as we have said, unsightly in early life, but at a later period the case -is otherwise. There is scarcely indeed a more _naturally_ disgusting -object than a beardless old man (compared by the Turks to a “plucked -pigeon,”) with all the deep-ploughed lines of effete passions, grasping -avarice, disappointed ambition, the pinchings of poverty, the swollen -lines of self-indulgence, and the distortions of disease and decay! Now -the Beard, which, as the Romans phrased it, “buds” on the face of youth -in a soft downiness in harmony with immature manliness, and lengthens -and thickens with the progress of life, keeps gradually covering, -varying, and beautifying, as the “mantling ivy” the rugged oak, or the -antique tower, and by playing with its light free forms over the harsher -characteristics, imparts new graces even to decay, by heightening all -that is still pleasing, veiling all that is repulsive. - -The colour of the Beard is usually warmer than that of the hair of the -head, and reflection soon suggests the reason. The latter comes into -contact chiefly with the forehead, which has little colour; but the -Beard grows out of the face where there is always more or less. Now -nature makes use of the colours of the face in painting the Beard—a -reason by the bye for not attempting to alter the original hue, and -carries off her warm and cold colours by that means. Never shall I -forget the circumstance of a gentleman with high colour, light brown -hair, full whiskers of a warm brown, deepening into a warm black, and -good looking, though his features, especially the nose, were not -regular—taking a whim into his head to shave off his whiskers. Deprived -of this fringe, the colour of his cheeks looked spotty, his nose forlorn -and wretched, and his whole face like a house on a hill-top exposed to -the north east, from which the sheltering plantations had been -ruthlessly removed. - -The following singular fact in connection with the colour of the Beard, -I learnt in chance conversation with a hairdresser. Observing that -persons like him with high complexion and dark hair, had usually a -purple black beard: he said, “that’s true, sir,” and told me he had -“found in his own Beard, and in those of his customers, distinct red -hairs intermingled with the black,” just as it is stated that in the -grey fur of animals there are distinct rings of white and black hairs. -This purplish bloom of a black Beard is much admired by the Persians; -and curiously enough they produce the effect by a red dye of henna -paste, followed by a preparation of indigo. - -There is one other point connected with colour which ought not to be -omitted. All artists know the value of white in clearing up colours. Now -let any one look at an old face surrounded by white hair, whether in man -or woman, and he will perceive a harmonizing beauty in it, that no -artificial imitation of more youthful colours can possibly impart. In -this, as in other cases, the natural is the most becoming. - -Permit me to conclude this section of my lecture by reminding all who -wish to let their Beards grow, that there is a law above fashion, and -that each individual face is endowed with its individual Beard, the form -and colour of which is determined by similar laws to those which -regulate the tint of the skin, the form and colour of the hair of the -head, eyebrows, and eyelashes; and therefore the most becoming, even if -ugly in itself, to their respective physiognomies. What suits a square -face, will not suit an oval, and a high forehead demands a different -Beard to a low one. Leave the matter therefore to nature, and in due -season the fitting form and colour will manifest themselves. And here -parties who have never shaved have this great advantage over those who -have yielded to the unnatural custom, that hair will only be visible, -even when present, in its proper place, be better in character and -colour, and more graceful in its form. - -And now, ladies and gentlemen, as all history we are told grew out of -fable, allow me, as a sort of intermezzo, to preface my history by “a -Fable for the Times.” - - An Ape, one day, said to a Goat, - “Why wear that nasty ugly Beard? - I’ll shave you for a quarter groat - Cleaner than Sheep was ever shear’d.” - - “Thank you, Sir Ape!” the Goat replied, - “I’ll think of it.” To court he ran, - Where he the foplings busy spied - Effacing ev’ry mark of man: - - Thinking to win the softer sex - By making themselves _softer_ still. - “Ah!” says our Goat, “ah! ah! I’feggs, - I’ll be in fashion, that I will!” - - He seats himself, the Ape’s not slow, - But tucks the cloth in, and then lathers; - When lo! stalk’d by a goodly row, - A solemn train of old Church Fathers! - - With these came Doctors of each Art, - And each one pointed to his Beard! - Our Goat sprang up, with sudden start, - Like one whom conscience makes afeard. - - “O Ape! this man’s a creature brave, - To whom we all like slaves submit; - Bearded to-day—t’morrow he’ll shave, - Then where’s the good of his boasted wit! - - “There’s your apron! take your basin! - ’Tis best to abide by nature’s rule: - His Beard no Goat will see disgrace in, - Whom nature did not make a fool!” - - MORAL. - - Let your Beards grow in their natural shapes, - God made you all _Men_, don’t make yourselves _Apes_! - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - III. HISTORICAL SURVEY. - - ------- - - EGYPTIANS. - - -HAVING seen that the Beard is a natural feature of the male face, and -that the Creator intended it for distinction, protection, and ornament, -let us turn lightly over the pages of history and examine the estimation -in which it has been held at various times among the leading people, -ancient and modern. - -The first nation which suggests itself is the Egyptian, and very -peculiar forms of Beard were assigned by them on their monuments to -their gods, kings, and common people. That of the gods is curled and the -length of the oval of the face: that of the kings is shaped like an -Egyptian doorway, and three fourths of the same standard: of which the -people’s is one fourth and nearly square. This appendage seems from the -appearance of an attaching band to have been frequently artificial, and -probably the Egyptians, who, as you may see by the wig in the British -Museum, wore false hair, also wore false Beards. Some have supposed the -forms alluded to, to be mere symbols of the male sex on the monuments; -but this notion is disproved by male persons being represented without -them. That they were occasionally so used, however, is clear from the -kingly Beard on that symbol of royalty the Sphynx. - -The priests of this ancient nation are stated to have removed every hair -from the body thrice a week; and they ultimately compelled the people to -shave both their heads and faces; and all slaves and servants, though -foreigners, were obliged to do the same. That this arose from some -superstitious notion of cleanliness, is confirmed by the remark of -Herodotus, “that no Egyptian of either sex, would on any account kiss -the lips of a bearded Greek, or make use of his knife, spit, or -cauldron, or taste the meat of an animal which had been slaughtered by -his hand.” - -In times of mourning, however, the Egyptians allowed the hair of the -head and Beard to grow in token of grief. - - - JEWS. - -Such was the practice of the Egyptians; and it is highly important to -take the Jews next, because at the period of our first knowledge of them -as a people, they appear in bondage to the former nation; and it is now -generally believed that most of the usages established by Moses had more -or less reference to Egyptian customs, from which he was desirous of -weaning them. As might be expected from the inspired Lawgiver, whose -sublime books start with the grand assertion, that man was made “in the -express image of God,” any attempt to alter the natural features of the -“human face divine,” was denounced and emphatically interdicted. Twice -is the commandment issued—first to the whole people, “thou shalt not mar -the corners of thy Beard,” in other words, thou shalt not alter the form -thereof, which I thy God have appointed! Then to the Priests, with the -addition, that they should not make baldness upon their heads. It is of -the utmost consequence to recall the superstitious practice of the -Egyptian Priests, and to remember that Moses issued this command to the -Aaronites, fresh from Egypt, because it most convincingly shews that the -practice of shaving, even when resorted to with the view of pleasing the -Deity, by an extreme degree of external purity, in approaching His -mysterious presence, was directly and most absolutely forbidden. It is -as if God had said, “What art thou, O man! who thinkest in thy vain -imagination that I, thy Creator, knew not how to fashion thee! and -blasphemously supposest that thou canst please me, by superstitiously -sacrificing what I, in my Almighty wisdom, had endowed thee with, for -protection and ornament!” And, as if to mark the distinction more -strongly, Moses enjoined in the strictest manner every ordinary and -natural method of purifying the person. - -It cannot but be instructive to note, that thus on the very threshold of -history, we have two customs so opposite brought into contrast—the one -strongly condemned, the other most awfully sanctioned. And it is the -more necessary to mark this, because there are many religious persons -who have by custom acquired the Egyptian notion, and forgotten its -emphatic condemnation. There are many who, though told that certain -diseases to which the more active of the clergy are specially liable, -might be prevented and may be cured, by simply wearing the Beard, will -still insist upon their ministers paying the penalty invariably -attaching to a violation of God’s laws, because their prejudices lead -them to fancy a smooth face rather than a manly one. - -As further confirmation of our idea that the object of this law of Moses -was to prevent any of the natural features from being materially -altered—he objected not to trimming the Beard, which was a common Jewish -practice—is to be found in the first verse of the 14th chapter of -Deuteronomy, where the people are commanded not to shave their eyebrows; -which was a customary mark of grief among some bearded nations. The Jews -too, unlike the Persians and others, instead of shaving the Beard in -time of mourning—though in the violence of oriental grief they sometimes -plucked it—usually left it merely untrimmed or veiled, till the days of -mourning were passed. - -You all remember the fearful vengeance David took when his ambassadors -were disgraced by shaving their Beards. - -The Beard continued to be worn in all its glory by these chosen people, -and it would be impossible for us to imagine to ourselves the appearance -of any of their patriarchs, judges, priests, prophets, or mature -kings—or of the sublime founder of our religion—or of the chosen -twelve—save the youthful John, without this venerable and venerated -feature. What painter would dare such an offence to our most sacred -associations, as to represent any of these with the smirking smoothness -of razored neatness! - -That in Mahomet’s time, the Jews still held to their primitive custom, -is evident from that lawgiver’s command to his followers to clip the -whiskers and Beard, in order to distinguish themselves from the Jews. -Indeed the latter, in every way most remarkable people, have clung to -the prescribed custom with all the force of religious feeling and firm -conviction. And however in modern times some of the laity, impelled by a -desire to mix unobserved amongst the populations of Western Europe, may -have sacrificed conviction to convenience, their Rabbies have remained -invariably consistent in their testimony to truth and nature; and one of -the most enduring impressions of my youth is the remembrance of the -Chief Rabbi Herschel treading the streets of London, like the last of -the prophets, in dark robes, with long pale face and flowing Beard, - - And eyes, whose deep mysterious glow, - Disdainful of each fleeting show, - Dwelt in the old and sacred past, - Or Seer-like scann’d the future, vast. - - - ASSYRIANS AND BABYLONIANS. - -The Assyrians and Babylonians, as we know from the researches and -discoveries of Layard and others, wore highly ornamental Beards, in -which they were followed by the ancient Persians, and the bands -appearing on them were of gold. - - - PERSIANS, ARABS, AND TURKS. - -The ancient Arabs, like their kindred, the Jews, were Bearded, and like -them also they have preserved their Beards intact, though their faith -has more than once changed. From Mahomet’s time we may class them for -our purpose with the Turks and Persians, since all have manifested the -same respect for the Beard, looking upon it as the perfection and -completion of man’s countenance and the type of freedom; and shaving as -a mark of debasement and slavery.[5] Mahomet, who sanctioned dyeing the -Beard, preferred that it should be of a cane colour, which was the hue -assigned by tradition to Abraham’s. One of the points of Persian heresy -is preferring a black Beard, and a particular cut; and about this -hair-splitting difference, they once waged a cruel war with the Uzbec -Tartars, in which they were accustomed to lay their enemies’ Beards as -trophies at the feet of the Shah. - -Footnote 5: - - “It is customary to shave the Ottoman Princes as a mark of subjection - to the reigning Sultan; and those who serve in the Seraglio have their - Beards shaven as a sign of servitude, and do not suffer it to grow - till the Sultan has set them at liberty.”—_Burder’s Oriental Customs._ - Volney says, “At length Ibrahim Bey suffered Ali his page to let his - Beard grow, _i.e._, gave him his freedom, for among the Turks to want - the Beard is thought only fit for slaves and women.” - -As instances of respect paid to the Beard, we may cite the common -Mahomedan oath “by the Beard of the Prophet!” and the form of -supplication, “by your Beard, or the life of your Beard.” The Turks will -point to theirs and say, “do you think this venerable Beard could lie?” -And a man’s testimony used to be so much measured by his Beard, that in -hiring a witness, length of this appendage was an indispensable -qualification. To touch another’s Beard, unless to kiss it respectfully, -is considered by all these people a great insult. When two friends meet, -to kiss it, sometimes on both sides, answers to our shake of the -hand—how are you? and “may God preserve your Beard!” is a form of -invoking a blessing on a friend. In the bosoms of their families the -Beard is treated as an object of reverential fondness—wife and children -kissing it with the most tender and respectful affection. To express -high value for a thing, they say, “it is worth more than one’s -Beard.”[6] - -Footnote 6: - - Dr. Wolff says, Mahomed Effendi told him “that the Mahomedans believed - that though Noah lived 1000 years, no hair of his blessed Beard fell - off, or became white; while that of the Devil consists only of one - long hair;” and the same Mahomed, wishing to compliment two - midshipmen, “hoped they would some day have fine long Beards like - himself.” - -“Shame on your Beard!” is a term of reproach, and “I spit on your -Beard!” an expression of the most profound contempt. When the Shah of -Persia, in 1826, was speaking to our Ambassador, (Sir J. Malcolm,) -concerning the Russians, to shew how low he esteemed them, he exclaimed, -“I spit on their Beards!”[7] - -Footnote 7: - - Niebuhr says, “I once saw, in a caravan, an Arab highly offended at a - man who had accidentally bespattered his Beard. It was with difficulty - he could be appeased, even though the offender humbly asked his - pardon, and kissed his Beard in token of submission.” Though I avoided - breaking the argument by its insertion under the account of the Jews, - it may be interesting to state, that Moses, in Numbers, orders a man - to be considered unclean for seven days, whose Beard has been defiled - in this way: and that David could scarcely have devised a more - efficient means to convince Achish of his madness, than the expedient - he adopted of allowing his saliva to descend upon his Beard. - -To cut off the Beard is considered a deep disgrace and degradation. The -noted Wahahee Chief Saoud was accustomed to shave the Beard as a -punishment for the gravest offences. He had long wished to purchase the -mare of a Sheikh of the Shahmanny tribe, but all his offers were -rejected. A Sheikh of the Kahtans, however, having been sentenced to -lose his hairy honors, when the barber appeared, exclaimed, “O Saoud, -take the mare of the Shahmanny as a ransom for my Beard!” The offer was -accepted, and a bargain struck with the owner of the mare for 2,500 -dollars, which he declared he would not have taken, nor any other sum, -had it not been to save the Beard of a noble Kahtan. - -Even when disease or accident renders necessary the removal of the whole -or part of the Beard, it is only at the last extremity that an Arab will -yield; and then he lives secluded, or if obliged to go out, wears a -thick black veil, until his chin can reappear “with all its pristine -honours blushing thick upon it.” - -Almost every Mahomedan carries a comb with him for the sole purpose of -arranging his Beard: this is often done, especially after prayers; when -the devotee usually remains sitting on his heels and industriously using -the comb. The hairs which fall are carefully collected, to be either -buried with the owner, or deposited previously in his tomb, after having -been first separately broken in order to release the guardian angels. - -To perfume and fumigate the Beard with incense is a common eastern -custom. - -In mourning, the Persians shave themselves; and Herodotus relates one -instance when they also cropped the manes and tails of their horses in -honor of their leader Mardonius. - -One wiseacre of a Sultan is said to have shaved his Beard, saying “his -councillors should never lead him by it, as they had done his -forefathers!” forgetting that he had still left them the convenient -handle of his nose—by which, as you know, ladies and gentlemen, people -have been led from time immemorial. Let me hope, therefore, no one will -cite this as an historical precedent for shaving. - -He was fortunately succeeded by wiser men, and the Sultan is yet -distinguished by a goodly Beard:[8] as is also the Shah of Persia, and -all the Arabs and their Chiefs. - -Footnote 8: - - It used to be considered one of the almost impossible feats of - Chivalry to pluck a hair from the Sultan’s Beard.—(May the Russians - find it quite so!) The romance of Oberon is founded on this notion, - and Shakspeare makes Benedict say in a spirit of bravado, “I’ll fetch - you a hair off the great Cham’s Beard.” (_i.e._ Khan of Tartary’s - Beard.) - - - GREEKS. - -The ancient Greeks were world-famous for their Beards. All Homer’s -heroes are bearded, and Nestor the Sage is described as stroking his as -a graceful prelusion to an oration. Saturn, Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, -Mars, Vulcan, Mercury, are represented with Beards. Apollo is without, -as an emblem of perpetual youth. Hercules and the demigods are also well -furnished. And Æsculapius the God of Health,—significant fact!—is most -abundantly endowed. The mother of Achilles, when supplicating Jupiter, -touches his Beard with one hand, with the other his knee. - -As might be supposed from their hardy characteristics, the Spartans -especially cherished the Beard. When one Nicander was asked why? he -replied, “because we esteem it the ornament that preeminently -distinguishes man.” It being demanded of another why he wore so _long_ a -Beard? his noble reply was, “Since it is grown white, it incessantly -reminds me not to dishonor my old age.”[9] Plutarch, after mentioning -the bushy hair and Beard of the Spartan commander Lysander, says, “that -Lycurgus was of opinion that abundance of hair and Beard made those who -were fair, more so, and those who were ugly, more terrible to their -enemies.” Regarding shaving as a mark of slavish servitude, they -compelled their chief magistrates to shave their upper lips during their -term of office, to remind them that though administrators of the laws, -they were still subject to them. - -Footnote 9: - - The Rev. John More, of Norwich, a worthy clergyman in Elizabeth’s - reign, who is said to have had the longest and largest Beard of any - Englishman of his time, seems to have chosen this Spartan for his - model; since when asked to give a reason for it he replied, “that no - act of his life might be unworthy of the gravity of his appearance.” - And Baudinus, quoted by Pagenstecher, says, Frederick Taubman, the - celebrated German wit, humourist, and theologian, being asked the same - question answered, “in order that whenever I behold these hairs, I may - remember that I am no vile coward or old woman, but a man, called - Frederick Taubman.” - -The Greeks in general continued to wear the Beard till the decay of -Athenian virtue brought that free state into subjection to the -Macedonian Conqueror, who, according to Plutarch, ordered his soldiers -to shave, lest their Beards should afford a handle to their enemies. -This must have been when he was in one of his drunken fits, or he might -have had them trimmed like the old Greek warriors.[10] Be that as it -may, Greek freedom and Greek Beards expired together. - -Footnote 10: - - That the Beard, however, sometimes afforded a handle to an enemy in - ancient times, when swords, especially the Greek, were very short, is - admitted. And I possess an engraving from one of Raphael’s Vatican - Cartoons, where one soldier is represented in the act of cutting down - another whom he has seized by the Beard. He must be a poor master of - his weapon, however, who in modern times would allow a man to grasp - his Beard without being hewn down or run through in the process. - -Diogenes, cotemporary with Alexander, once asked a smooth-chinned -voluptuary whether he quarrelled with nature for making him a man -instead of a woman? And Phocion rebuking one who courted the people and -affected a long Spartan Beard, said to him, “if thou needs must flatter, -why didst thou not clip thy Beard?” - -It is a curious fact for those who resolve civilization into shaving, -that the only parties in ancient Greece who retained their Beards under -all changes were the Philosophers, or lovers of wisdom—they with whom -all that distinguished Greek intellect was a special study and -profession; who were in fact the most civilized portion of the -community. - -From the time of the Emperor Justinian the Greeks resumed the Beard, -which was worn by all the Greek Emperors down to the last, the -unfortunate Paleologus, who died fighting bravely at the taking of -Constantinople by the Turks. It was by these Emperors regarded as an -ensign of royalty—an attribute of kingly majesty. - - - ETRUSCANS—ROMANS. - -The Etruscans represented their gods with Beards, and wore them -themselves; as did the Romans. Every schoolboy recollects the awe -inspired to the invading Gauls when, on entering the Senate-house, they -saw the conscript Fathers sitting calm and immovable as the gods, for -which the Barbarians at first view took them, till one bolder than the -rest plucked at the Beard of the noble Marcus Papirius, who by -indignantly raising his staff, unconsciously gave the signal for the -murder of himself, and his venerable compatriots. - -During all the best ages of the Republic, while the old Roman virtue -retained something of its original vigour, and before it had been sapped -and undermined by the imported vices and effeminate customs of conquered -nations, Rome’s statesmen, heroes, priests and people all wore, and all -reverenced, the virile glories of the Beard! - -It was not till the year of Rome 454, about three centuries before our -era, that one of those corrupt Prætors, who usually returned laden with -foreign gold, and pampered with foreign luxury, imported a stock of -Barbers from Sicily; and that credulous gossip Pliny libels the younger -Scipio Africanus by stating—calumnious on dit!—“that he was the first -who shaved his whole Beard.” This is just one of those instances where a -foolish custom, like a bad piece of wit, is sought to be fathered on -some world-renowned name. - -Long after the above date, the Beard was only partially shaved or -trimmed; and the same word (tondere) is sometimes used to mean either. -Of course when once the fashion had set in, it was, as with us, -considered unbecoming to wear a Beard; and Marcus Livius on his return -from banishment, was compelled by the Censors to shave, before appearing -in the Senate. - -With the increasing growth of vice and effeminacy among this once hardy -race, the decreasing Beard kept pace.[11] Cæsar, the real founder of the -empire, by whom every kind of foppery and debauchery was indulged in as -a mask to deep schemes of ambition, of course shaved;[12] and having -done so, shaving continued to be the imperial fashion down to the time -of Hadrian, (whose bold Roman head I exhibited, as the first restorer of -manly beauty.) From his time most of the Emperors[13] wore it till -Constantine, who shaved out of superstition. His father had a noble -Beard. - -Footnote 11: - - Suetonius says, “he was excessively nice about his body, that he was - not only sheered and shaved, but plucked.” - -Footnote 12: - - Besides shaving, the Romans as they progressed in luxurious - effeminacy, used depilatories, tweezers and all sorts of contrivances - to make themselves as little like men and as much like women as - possible; and their satirists abound with passages impossible to quote - with decency on the causes and consequences of this abrogation of the - distinctive peculiarities of the two sexes. - -Footnote 13: - - Pagenstecher says, “one of the Emperors of Rome refused to admit to an - audience certain Ambassadors of the Veneti, because they had no - Beards.” - -Even after the custom of shaving was introduced, the first appearance of -the Beard was hailed with joy, and usually about the time of assuming -the toga; the “first fruits” of hair were solemnly consecrated—relict of -previous respect—to some god, as in the case of Nero,[14] who presented -his in a golden box, set with jewels, to the Capitoline Jupiter.[15] - -Footnote 14: - - The branch of the Roman family to which Nero belonged was called - Enobarbus, copper-coloured or red Beard; and the legend of the family - was, that the Dioscuri announced to one of their ancestors a victory, - and to confirm the truth of what was said, stroked his black hair and - Beard, and turned them red. Cn. Domitius, who was Censor with L. - Crassus the orator, “took” says Pagenstecher, “too much pride in his,” - and Crassus fired away the following epigram upon it. “Quid mirum si - barbam habet aeneam Domitius cum et os ferreum et cor habet plumbeum.” - (Where’s the wonder Domitius has a brazen Beard, when he has bones of - iron and a heart of lead.) Shakspeare (the _unlearned_!) who never - loses a characteristic, makes his Enobarbus, (who was great - grandfather of Nero, wore a Beard, as seen on his medals, and was a - fine bold warrior,) speak thus of Antony, under the fascination of - Cleopatra:— - - LEP. “Good Enobarbus, ’Tis a worthy deed, - And shall become you well, to entreat your Captain - To soft and gentle speech.” - - ENOB. “I shall entreat him - To answer like himself: if Cæsar move him, - Let Antony look over Cæsar’s head, - And speak as loud as Mars. _By Jupiter, - Were I the wearer of Antonius’ Beard, - I would not shave’t to-day._” - - This passage evidently associates the Beard with manly determination, - and shaving with the want of it, for subsequently Enobarbus speaks of - Antony’s effeminacy in these words:— - - “Our courteous Antony, - Whom ne’er the word of No woman heard speak, - _Being barber’d ten times o’er_, goes to the feast, - And for his ordinary pays his heart - For what his eyes eat only.” - -Footnote 15: - - Arcite in Chaucer’s Knight’s Tale thus devotes his Beard to Mars:— - - “And eke to this avow I wol me bind, - My Berd, my here that hangeth low adoun, - That never yet felt non offensioun - Of rasour, ne of shere, I wol thee yeve.” - -Shaving in token of grief was the custom of the early Romans; when, -however, that which had been considered a deprivation became a general -fashion, the Beard was allowed to grow in time of sorrow, to denote -personal neglect. - -The Roman Philosophers, like the Greek, cherished a long Beard as the -emblem of wisdom. The following anecdote shews that it was sometimes a -fallacious sign. One of the Emperors being pestered by a man in a long -robe and Beard, asked him what he was. “Do you not see that I am a -philosopher?” was the reply. “The cloak I see, and the Beard I see,” -said the Emperor, “but the philosopher, where is he?” - -I must not conclude this notice of Roman customs without mentioning the -instructive fact, that the slaves of the early Romans were shaved as a -mark of servitude, and not allowed to wear the distinctive sign of a -free man until emancipated. At a later period the slaves, as the most -manly, wore the Beard, and only shaved when entitled to be put on a -level with their debased and vicious masters! - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. - - -A BRIEF glance at Ecclesiastical History will furnish one or two -interesting matters. Most of the Fathers of the Church both wore and -approved of the Beard. Clement, of Alexandria, says, “nature adorned man -like the lion, with a Beard, as the index of strength and empire.” -Lactantius, Theodoret, St. Augustine, and St. Cyprian, are all eloquent -in praise of this natural feature: about which many discussions were -raised in the early ages of the Church, when matters of discipline -necessarily engaged much of the attention of its leaders. To settle -these disputes, at the 4th Council of Carthage, held A.D. 252, canon 44, -it was enacted “that a clergyman shall _not cherish his hair nor shave -his Beard_.” (Clericus nec comam nutriat nec barbam radat.) And Bingham -quotes an early letter, in which it is said of one who from a layman had -become a clergyman, “his habit, gait, modesty, countenance, and -discourse, were all _religious_, and _agreeably to these his hair was -short and his Beard long_;” shewing that in those early times St. Paul -was better understood than at a later date. - -Subsequently the Beard was alternately commended to the clergy for its -becoming gravity, or condemned from the ascetic notion that pride was -apt to lurk in a fine Beard. In some of the monasteries lay members wore -the Beard, while those in orders were shaved, and the hairs, remnant of -an earlier superstition, devoutly consecrated to God with special -prayers and imposing ceremonies. - -One order of the Cistercians were specially allowed to wear their -Beards, and were hence called “fratres barbati” or Bearded brethren. - -The military orders of the Church, as the Knights of St. John and the -Templars, were always full Bearded. - -To touch the Beard, was at one time a solemnity by which a godfather -acknowledged the child of his adoption. - -One of the fertile sources of dispute between the Roman and Greek -Churches has been this subject of wearing or not wearing the Beard. The -Greek Church, with a firm faithfulness which does credit to its -orthodoxy, has stood manfully by the early Church decisions and refused -to admit any shaven saint into its calendar, heartily despising the -Romish Church for its weakness in this respect. On the other hand, the -Popes, to mark the distinction between Eastern and Western christianity, -early introduced statutes “de radendis barbis,” or concerning shaving -the Beard. Here and there, however, a manly old fellow, like Pope Julius -II, who made Michael Angelo sculpture him with a drawn sword in his -hand, or a Cardinal, like Pole or Allen, and many Bishops, managed to -believe that faith and nature might be reconciled by taking a -comprehensive and truly Catholic view of both. - -The leading English and German Reformers wore their Beards; (if Luther -confined himself to a moustache, it was because his Monkish habit of -shaving was too strong for him,) and most of the Martyrs to the -Protestant Faith were burnt in their Beards. - - -[Illustration] - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - MODERN HISTORY. - - ------- - - - BRITONS. - - -THE Britons “like their neighbours the Gauls”[16] (two of whose heads -were shewn copied from Roman monuments,) were Bearded, though, probably, -for some purpose of distinction, their Chiefs, as stated by Cæsar and -others, had merely an enormous twisted moustache. The Druids and their -successors, the native British Clergy, regarded this natural covering as -adding to their dignity and gracing their office and their age.[17] - -Footnote 16: - - The Goths and Dacians, as seen on the Roman monuments, were Bearded; - and the ancient Hungarians, Raumer states, wore long Beards adorned - with gold and jewels. The Catti also were accustomed not to trim the - hair of the head or Beard till they had proved their manliness by - slaying an enemy in battle. - -Footnote 17: - - One of the Legends of King Arthur mentions a giant who made “a great - exhibition of domestic manufacture,” consisting of a “cloak fringed - with the Beards of kings.” - - - SAXONS. - -The Anglo-Saxons brought their Beards with them which they preferred of -the forked shape, and this again might be either two-pronged, or -three-pronged, or plutonian and neptunian. - -St. Augustine is figured with his Beard on his appearance to convert -these Islands in the sixth century. His followers must soon have shaved, -because a writer of the seventh century, complains that “the Clergy had -grown so corrupt as to be distinguished from the Laity less by their -actions than by their want of Beards.” The illustrious Alfred was so -careful of the Beards of his subjects, that he inflicted the then heavy -fine of twenty shillings on any one maliciously injuring the Beard of -another. The Danes who invaded this country were Bearded. Fosbrooke -says, some of them wore Beards with six forks, and history mentions -Sueno the fork-beard.[18] - -Footnote 18: - - Many princes have borne the title of Bearded—as the Greek Emperor - Constantine Pogonatus, Count Godfrey, the Emperor Barbarossa, and - Eberhard Duke of Wirtemberg in the reign of Maximilian, whose wisdom - might truly be said to have grown with his Beard, and on whom the - following verse was made:— - - “Hic situs est cui _barba_ dedit cognomina Princeps, - Princeps Teutonici gloria magna soli.” - (Here is a Prince whose Beard gave his surname, - A Prince the glory of the land Almayne.) - -During this period, the French monarchy was growing. Its first kings -held the Beard as sacred, and ornamented it with gold. Their subjects -were proud of it as marking them out to be free men in contradistinction -to the degenerate Roman population. Alaric touched the Beard of Clovis -as a solemn mode of confirming a treaty, and acknowledging Clovis as his -godfather. The Merovingian Dynasty were Bearded. Then came Charlemagne -who swore by his Beard, as did Otho the Great and Barbarossa, Emperors -of Germany, after him. The following story shows the faith of those -early times in the sacredness of this form of adjuration. A peasant, who -had sworn a false oath on the relics of two holy Martyrs, having taken -hold of his Beard, as further confirmation, heaven to punish him, caused -the whole to come off in his hand! - -Charlemagne also enacted that any one who should call another red beard -or red-fox, should pay a heavy fine; a law explained by a prejudice -embodied in two German proverbs.[19] - -Footnote 19: - - Rothbart nie gut wart - Rothbart Schelmen art. - - Of red beard no good heard - Red beard—a knave to be feared; - -and carried to its climax in the anecdote of a Spanish nobleman, who, -having accused a man of some crime, and the latter being proved -innocent, exclaimed, “if he did not do it he was plotting it, for the -rascal has a red beard!” Those who need consolation under this calumny, -traceable probably to an old notion, derived from his name, that Judas -Iscariot had a red beard, I am fortunately able to refer to a sermon[20] -on that Arch-Traitor, full of wit, humor, pathos, and imagination, by -the celebrated Abraham St. Clara, where red beards are nobly vindicated, -and the following noted instances cited:— - -Footnote 20: - - Judas der Ertz. Schelm. - - Several illustrious Romans, - The Emperor Barbarossa; - Hanquinus Rufus, King of the Goths; - Bishops Gaudentius and Gandulfius; - The Martyrs Dominicus, Maurinus, and Savinianus. - -During the distractions to which Charlemagne’s empire was subject after -his decease, the Northmen appeared, and a band, under Rollo, having been -converted and settled in what is now Normandy, became known in English -History as the Normans; with whom an increasing intimacy having sprung -up in the reign of Edward the Confessor, (whose head was shewn from the -Bayeux tapestry,) a Norman party was gradually formed at court and -Norman customs, one of which was shaving, partially adopted. Harold, as -representative of the real old English party, wore his Beard as shown by -a cotemporary MSS. illuminator; but William the Conqueror, and most of -his followers, are figured only with a moustache and their back hair -close cropped or shaven. It was this _barbarous_ fashion that induced -Harold’s spies to report to their master that the invaders were an army -of Priests. - -William is said to have attempted to compel the sturdy Saxons to shave, -but many of them left the kingdom rather than part with their Beards. In -this, as in other matters, Anglo-Saxon firmness ultimately conquered the -conquerors, and the Norman sovereigns gave in to the national custom. As -early as Henry I, that is _only 44 years from William’s landing_, we -learn that Bishop Serlo met that monarch on his arrival in Normandy, and -made a long harangue on the enormities of the times, especially long -hair and bushy Beards, which he said they would not clip, lest the -stumps should wound the ladies’ faces. Henry, with repentant obedience, -submitted his hairy honors to the Bishop, who with pious zeal, taking a -pair of shears from his trunk, trimmed king and nobles with his own -hand. This conduct of the Bishop is curiously illustrated by a -cotemporary decree of the Senate of Venice, of the year 1102, commanding -all long Beards to be cut off in consequence of a Bull of Pope Paschal -II, denouncing the vanity of long hair, founded on a misinterpretation -of 1st Corinthians, xii, 14,[21] which applies only to the hair of the -head. On this text a sermon might be written though scarcely preached, -which would “a tale unfold, would harrow up the soul.”[22] - -Footnote 21: - - A writer in Dickens’ Household Words says Pope Anacletus, (query 1st - or 2nd) was the first who introduced the custom of shaving. - -Footnote 22: - - In this and in other places I am obliged to leave under a veil of - obscure allusion, arguments of thrilling force, not only from ancient - but from our own history: matters not to be met with in ordinary - histories; but too abundant in the pages of satirists and moralists, - who were hardy enough to lash the prevalent follies and vices of the - times in which they lived. - -The stout king Stephen wore his Beard, and a Saxon chronicler complains -that in the civil wars of his time, in order to extort the wealth of -peaceable people, they were “hung up by their Beards;” a proof the -latter were long and strong. Stephen’s cotemporary, Frederick the 1st of -Germany, to prevent quarrelling, laid a very heavy fine on any one who -pulled another’s Beard. - -Henry II, is said to have had a vision in which all classes of his -subjects reproached him in his sleep for his tyranny and oppression. A -cotemporary MSS. illuminator, having fortunately designed several -cartoons, really much more expressive than some in the New Houses of -Parliament, from which we learn that the faces of all classes of the -people and of the Clergy then appeared as nature made them, I selected -one, representing the leaders of the distressed agriculturalists of that -remote period, because while it illustrated my subject, it seemed to -possess great interest for that patient and much enduring class. One -could almost imagine the stout fellow with the one-sided Saxon spade, to -be urging on the heroes with the pitchfork and scythe, nearly in the -words of Marmion, - - “Charge, Sibthorp,[23] charge! On, Stanley, on!” - -Footnote 23: - - I trust my honest and uncompromising brother Beard will pardon the - liberty I have taken with his name. No one can be a more sincere - admirer than myself of the manly way in which he maintains his - opinions on all occasions, and the humorous kindness of disposition - which renders him beloved in private and in public. I should always - esteem him as a public man, were it only for his long and - single-handed fight against that economical iniquity—that suicidal tax - on prudence and foresight, and bounty on improvidence—the Fire - Insurance Duty! - -Henry’s Queen Eleanor had been previously the wife of Louis VII, of -France, who having been persuaded by his Priests to shave off his Beard, -so disgusted Eleanor that she obtained a divorce.[24] - -Footnote 24: - - “She had,” says D’Israeli, “for her marriage dower the rich province - of Poitou and Guyenne; and this was the origin of those wars which for - 300 years ravaged France, and cost the French three million of men. - All which probably had never occurred had Louis VII not been so rash - as to crop his head and shave his Beard, by which he became so - disgustful in the eyes of our Queen Eleanor.” - -Richard the Lion-hearted was Bearded like a lion, and though he was so -absorbed in the Crusades that he did not redress, yet he acknowledged -the justice of the complaints of the celebrated Longbeard, “Earl of -London and King of the Poor,” who did honor to his Beard by resisting -oppression, and perished, after an heroic struggle, the victim of -cowardice and treachery. The monuments of Roger, Bishop of Sarum, and -Andrew, Abbot of Peterborough, shew that Bishops wore the Beard, and -Abbots and Monks shaved in this reign. - -John had what was called “a Judas’ Beard,” of which his actions were -every way worthy. Fortunately, the bold Barons outbearded him, and Magna -Charta was the result. His son, Henry III, had a moderate Beard, and the -longest reign till George III. Edward I, shewed the Scots what a long -Beard could do with long shanks, and a long head to back it.[25] This -king has been called the English Justinian, both he and the Roman -Emperor being noted for improving the laws, and cherishing their Beards. -Edward the 2nd’s Beard, like his character, was more ornamental than -strong, and his reign is chiefly memorable for the composition of that -favorite old song quoted by Shakspeare, “’Tis merry in hall, when Beards -wag all!” - -Footnote 25: - - No true Scotchman would pardon me if I omitted to note that the brave - Wallace had “a most brave Beard.” - -Edward the 3rd’s bold Beard spread terror in Scotland and France, and -that of his son, the Black Prince—young as he died—was an apt type of -his “prowess in the tented field.” - -Richard the 2nd, with all his faults, was neither deficient in Beard nor -in courage—the latter shewn in his meeting with Wat Tyler, and his -defence against his assassins. Henry IV, the crafty Bolingbroke, had a -chin cover, in whose every curl lurked an intrigue, of which his son, -Henry V, who was made of other metal, was so ashamed, we presume, that -he wore in penitence a shaven chin throughout his ten years’ reign, as -may be seen by his monument in Westminster Abbey, the remains of which -still exist. - -Shaving continued partially in fashion in Henry the 6th’s reign, who -himself in later life was Bearded like a Philosopher, accustomed to -moralize over the ups and downs of life, of which he had no common -share. Edward the 4th shaved out of foppery; as did that smooth-faced -rascal, Richard III, who “could smile and smile and be a villain.” Henry -the 7th shaved himself and fleeced his people. - -As may be seen in MSS. illuminations, and as we read in Chaucer and -elsewhere, the majority of the people stuck to their Beards, -uninfluenced by the fluctuations of court fashions. The poet, who was -born in Edward the 3rd’s time, and died in Henry the 4th’s, speaks of -“the merchant’s forked Beard;” “the Franklin’s white as a daisy;” “the -shipman’s shaken by many a tempest;” “the miller’s red as a fox, and -broad as though it were a spade;” the Reeve’s close trimmed; the -Sompnour’s piled; and ends by a contemptuous allusion to the Pardonere -with his small voice: - - “No Beard had he, nor never none should have, - As smooth it was as it were newe shave, &c.” - -Henry VIII, as you may still see on many sign boards, for which his -bluff, bloated face is so well adapted, had his Beard close clipped. -Once he swore to Francis the 1st that he would never cut it till he had -visited the latter, who swore the same; and when long Beards had become -the fashion at the French Court, Sir Thomas Bulleyn was obliged to -excuse Henry’s bad faith, by alleging that the Queen of England felt an -insuperable antipathy to a bushy chin, which, from the known considerate -conduct of Henry to his wives, must have been a very plausible plea! Sir -T. Moore shaved previous to his imprisonment. His Beard being then -allowed to grow, he conceived such an affection for it, that before he -laid his head on the block he carefully put it on one side, remarking -“that it at least was guiltless of treason, and ought not to be -punished.” - -Although Francis I, and his Court, cherished their Beards, the -Chancellor Duprat advised the imposition of a tax on the Beards of the -clergy, and promised the king a handsome revenue. The bishops and -wealthier clergy paid the tax and saved their Beards; but the poorer -ministers were not so fortunate. In the succeeding reign, the clergy -determined on revenge; so when Duprat (son of the Chancellor) was -returning in triumph from the council of Trent, to take possession of -the bishopric of Claremont, the dean and canons closed the brass gates -of the chancel, through which they were seen armed with shears and -razor, soap and basin, and pointing to the statutes, “de radendis -barbis.” Notwithstanding his remonstrances, they refused to induct him -unless he sacrificed his Beard, which was the handsomest of his time. He -is said to have retired to his castle, and died of vexation. - -In the same reign, John de Morillers was also objected to by the Chapter -of Orleans; but the cunning fellow produced a letter from the king -stating, that the statutes must be dispensed with in his case, as his -majesty intended to employ him in countries where he could not appear -without a Beard. - -At the court of the rival of Francis, Charles the 5th, who had himself a -right royal covering to his chin, lived John Mayo, his painter, a very -tall man, but with a Beard so long, that he could stand upon it; and in -which he took much pride, suspending it by ribbons to his button-hole. -Sometimes this mass of hair, by command of the Emperor, was unfastened -at table, and doors and windows being thrown open, the imperial mind -took intense delight in seeing it blown into the faces of his grimacing -courtiers. Another noted German Beard was that of a merchant of Braunau -in Bavaria, which was so long, that it would have draggled on the -ground, had it not been incased by its proud owner in a beautiful velvet -bag.[26] - -Footnote 26: - - Southey in “The Doctor” mentions the Beard of Dominico d’Ancona, as - the crown or King of Beards, - - A Beard the most singular - Man ever described in verse or prose; - - and of which Berni says, “that the Barber ought to have felt less - reluctance in cutting the said Dominico’s throat, than in cutting off - so incomparable a Beard.” But Southey is outdone by a story told by - Dr. Ehle in his work on the hair, where mention is made of two - seven-foot giants with Beards down to their toes, at the court of one - of the German sovereigns. They both fell in love with the same woman, - and their master decided that whichever should succeed in putting his - rival into a sack, should have the maiden. One of them sacked the - other after a long duel before the whole court, and married the girl. - That the pair lived happily afterwards, as the Novelists say, is - proved by their having as many signs of affection as there are in the - Zodiac; and it is worthy of remark, both physiologically and - astrologically, that the whole twelve were born under one sign, - Gemini. - -The promising Edward the 6th died before his Beard developed; his sister -Mary’s husband had one of the true Spanish cut. - -In the time of “good Queen Bess,” when - - “The grave Lord Chancellor[27] led the dance, - And seal and mace tripped down before him,” - -Footnote 27: - - It surely will not be denied by any Judge of taste, that the - Chancellor and other legal dignitaries would look more dignified in - their own hair and with Beards of “reverend grey,” than in the present - absurd, fantastic, unnatural and unbecoming frosted ivy bushes, with a - black crow’s nest in the centre, in which Minerva might more readily - mistake them for stray specimens of her favorite bird, the owl, than - for learned, intelligent, and logical “sages of the law.” - -she, who was no prude, and had a right royal sympathy with every thing -manly and becoming, surrounded herself with men, who to the most -punctilious courtesy, joined the most adventurous spirit; and the Beard, -as might have been expected, grew and flourished mightily. Hence we are -not surprised at the wonderful efforts made by her subjects in arms, and -arts, and literature, so as to make her reign an era to which we look -back with patriotic pride, and from which our best writers still draw as -from a well of deep perennial flow.[28] - -Footnote 28: - - Although an attempt was made in this reign to restrain the growth of - legal Beards by some pragmatical heads of Lincoln’s Inn, who passed a - resolution “that no fellow of that house should wear a Beard of above - a fortnight’s growth;” and although transgression was punished with - fine, loss of commons, and final expulsion, such was the vigorous - resistance to this act of tyranny, that in the following year all - previous orders respecting Beards were repealed. _Percy Anecdotes._ - - About the same time also in Germany the moustache was partially - substituted for the Beard, as appears by Berckemej’s Europ. Antiq. p. - 294, who under the year 1564 says, the Archbishop Sigismund introduced - in Magdeburgh the custom of shaving off the full Beard and wearing - instead a moustache. The year in which this Beard-reformation - (de-formation?) happened, was contained in this pentameter— - - “Longa sIgIsMVnDo barba IVbente perIt.” - “Sigismund commanding, the long Beard perished in - MDLVV (= X) IIII. or 1564.” - -A feeble reflection of some of the heads of this period were exhibited -on the walls of the lecture room, as the sagacious Burleigh; the -adventurous Raleigh; the rash but brave Essex; Nottingham, the High -Admiral who scattered the Armada; Gresham the Merchant Prince, who found -his Beard no hindrance to business; and the Poet of Poets, whether -ancient or modern, Shakspeare. - -As might be expected, the dramatic literature of the time is full of -allusions to that feature which men still honored and admired. Lear can -find no more pathetic outburst of insulted majesty, in addressing his -vile daughter Goneril, than the words— - - “Art not ashamed to look upon this Beard?” - -and when Regan insults the faithful Gloster, the latter exclaims— - - “By the kind Gods! ’Tis most ignobly done - To pluck me by the Beard!” - -In a more mocking humour, Shakspeare makes Cressida say of Troilus’s -chin, “alas poor chin! many a wart is richer!” And Rosalind to Orlando, -“I will pardon you for not having a neglected Beard, for truly your -having in Beard is a younger brother’s revenue.” - -Then as characteristics, we have the black, white, straw-colored, -orange-tawney, purple-in-grain, and perfect yellow. The soldier Bearded -like a pard; the justice with Beard of formal cut; the sexton’s hungry -Beard; and the Beard of the general’s cut; and that fine passage, which -you will pardon my quoting, if only to supply an obvious correction -naturally lost sight of by _Beardless_ commentators. If instead of the -puerile conceit, _stairs_ of sand, we read _layers_ of sand, we not only -restore metaphorical beauty but literal truth; for what is more -deceitful than a layer of sand, and the Beard is “a layer of hair.” - - “There is no one so simple but assumes - Some mark of virtue on his outward parts; - How many cowards, whose hearts are all as false - As _layers_ of sand, wear yet upon their chins - The Beards of Hercules and frowning Mars, - Who, inward searched, have livers white as milk: - And these assume but valour’s excrement - To make themselves redoubted.”[29] - -Footnote 29: - - Pagenstecher asks “which was the city where Beard and foot made the - magistrate?” and then proceeds gravely to relate that the inhabitants - of Hardenberg had formerly the singular custom of electing their - mayors or burgomasters by assembling at a round table, where while - some of the town council were employed in inspecting their Beards, - others were engaged in estimating their feet—the biggest Beard and - largest foot being “called to the scarlet.” And rightly too! for the - Beard denoted authority and wisdom, and the large foot an - understanding likely to take grave steps when needed. As containing a - valuable hint to modern corporations to look well to the essential - points of a mayor—too often overlooked—I trust, this note upon note - will be pardoned. - -The witty Robert Green, published in 1592, a curious dialogue,[30] from -which we get a glimpse into a Barber’s shop of Queen Elizabeth’s time. -Cloth-breeches complains of the Barber’s attention to Velvet-breeches in -these terms. “His head being once dressed, which requires in combing and -brushing some two hours; then being curiously washed with no worse than -a camphor ball, you descend as low as his Beard, and ask whether he -please to be shaven or no? whether he will have his peake cut short and -sharp, amiable like an innamorato, or broad pendant like a spade, or le -terrible, like a warrior or soldado? whether he will have his crates cut -low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a razor? If it -be his pleasure to have his appendices pruned, or his moustaches -fostered to turn about his ears like the branches of a vine, or cut down -to the lip with the Italian lash, to make him look like a half-faced -bauby in brass. These quaint terms Master Barber, you greet Master -Velvet-breeches withal, and at every word a snap with your scissors and -a cringe with your knee; whereas, when you come to poor Cloth-breeches, -you either cut his Beard at your own pleasure, or else in disdain ask -him if he will be trimmed with Christ’s cut, round like the half of a -Holland cheese, mocking both Christ and us.”[31] - -Footnote 30: - - “Quip for an Upstart Courtier.” - -Footnote 31: - - A Ben Jonson, among other allusions to the Beard, has the following:— - - I am heartily grieved a Beard of your grave length - Should be so over-reach’d. (“The Fox.”) - - In his Alchemist _Subtle_ telling _Drugger’s_ fortune says— - - ——“This summer - He will be of the clothing of his company, - And next spring called to the scarlet.” - - FACE. _What and so little Beard!_[32] - -Footnote 32: - - Lilly in one of his Dramas makes a Barber say to his customer, “How, - sir, will you be trimmed? Will you have a Beard like a spade or a - bodkin? A penthouse on your upper lip or an ally on your chin? Your - moustaches sharp at the ends like shoemaker’s awls, or hanging down to - your mouth like goat’s flakes?” - -In the reign of James the 1st, Beards continued in fashion, and I -extract two out of many passages from Beaumont and Fletcher’s plays; the -first being, not excepting even that of Butler’s Hudibras, the most -humourous description of a Beard in the language. A banished prince in -disguise, having been elected “King of the Beggars” on account of his -Beard; Higgen the Orator of the Troop proceeds in this fashion:— - - “I then presaged thou shortly wouldst be king, - And now thou art so. But what need presage - To us, that might have read it in thy Beard, - As well as he that chose thee! By the Beard - Thou wert found out and marked for sovereignty. - O happy Beard! but happier Prince, whose Beard - Was so remarked as marked out our Prince - Not bating us a hair. Long may it grow, - And thick and fair, that who lives under it - May live as safe as under Beggar’s Bush, - Of which _it_ is the thing—_that_ but the type. - This is the Beard—the bush—or bushy Beard, - Under whose gold and silver reign ’twas said, - So many ages since, we all should smile! - No impositions, taxes, grievances, - Knots in a state, and whips unto a subject, - Lie lurking in this Beard, but all combed out.” - -In his Queen of Corinth we learn that— - - “The Roman T, your T-Beard is the fashion, - And twifold doth express the enamoured courtier - As full as your _fork carving_ doth the traveller.” - -The last line alluding to Coryate the traveller’s recent introduction of -the dinner-fork from Italy. - -Of this Roman T-Beard another writer humorously says— - - “The Roman T, - In its bravery, - Doth first itself disclose: - - But so high it turns, - That oft it burns - With the flame of a torrid nose.” - -and then adds— - - “The soldier’s Beard - Doth match in this herd - In figure like a spade; - - With which he will make - His enemies quake - To think their grave is made.” - -In 1610, died Henry IV, of France, whose Beard is said “to have diffused -over his countenance a majestic sweetness and amiable openness;” his son -Louis XIII,[33] ascending the throne while yet a minor, the courtiers -and others, to keep him in countenance, began to shave, leaving merely -the tuft called a mouche or royal. Sully, however, the famous minister -of Henry, stoutly refused to adopt the effeminate custom. Being sent for -to court, and those about the king having mocked at his old-fashioned -Beard, the duke indignantly turned to Louis and said, “Sire! when your -father of glorious memory did me the honor to hold a consultation on -grave and important business, the first thing he did was to order out of -the room all the buffoons and stage dancers of his court!” About this -time also, Marshal Bassompierre having been released from a long -imprisonment, declared the chief alteration he found was, “that the men -had lost their Beards and the horses their tails.” - -Footnote 33: - - “In this reign, whiskers however attained to a high degree of favour - at the expense of the expiring Beard, and continued so under Louis - XIV, who, with all the great men of his court, took a great pride in - wearing them. In those days of gallantry, it was no uncommon thing for - a lover to have his whiskers turned up, combed and pomatumed by his - mistress; and a man of fashion was always provided with every - necessary article for this purpose, especially whisker wax.” _Percy - Anecdotes._ - -Under our first Charles,[34] the sides of the face were often shaven, -and the Beard reduced to the moustache, and a long chin-tuft, as in the -portrait of that monarch, retaining however still some of its former -gracefulness. As the contest grew hotter between Cavalier and Roundhead, -doubtless some of the latter cropped chin as well as head; though others -are said to have been so careful of their Beards, as to provide them -with pasteboard night-caps to prevent the hairs being rumpled. - -Footnote 34: - - D’Israeli quotes an author of this reign, who in his “Elements of - Education” says, “I have a favourable opinion of that young gentleman - who is _curious in fine moustachios_. The time he employs in - adjusting, dressing and curling them, is no lost time; _for the more - he contemplates his moustachios, the more his mind will cherish and be - animated by masculine and courageous notions_.” - - D’Israeli also states, that the grandfather of Mrs. Thomas, the - “Corinna of Dryden,” was very nice in the mode of that age, his valet - being some hours every morning in _starching his Beard and curling his - whiskers_, during which time he was always read to. - -In one instance it was worn long for a sign, as we see by the following -verse— - - “This worthy knight was one that swore - He would not cut his Beard, - ’Till this ungodly nation was - From kings and bishops cleared: - - Which holy vow he firmly kept, - And most devoutly wore - A grizzly meteor on his face, - ’Till they were both no more.”[35] - -Footnote 35: - - Taylor, the Water Poet, who lived from the end of Elizabeth to nearly - the end of the Commonwealth, thus humorously describes the various - fashions of this appendage. - - “Now a few lines to paper I will put, - Of men’s Beards strange and variable cut, - In which there’s some that take as vain a pride, - As almost in all other things beside: - Some are reaped most substantial like a brush, - Which makes a natural wit known by the bush; - And in my time of some men I have heard, - Whose wisdom hath been only wealth and Beard: - Many of these the proverb well doth fit, - Which says _bush_ natural more hair than wit: - Some seem as they were starched stiff and fine, - Like to the bristles of some angry swine; - And some, to set their loves’ desire on edge, - Are cut and prun’d like to a quickset hedge. - Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square, - Some round, some mow’d like stubble, some stark bare, - Some sharp, stiletto-fashion,[36] dagger-like, - That may, with whispering, a man’s eyes outpike. - Some with the hammer cut or Roman T, - Their Beards extravagant reform’d must be; - Some with the quadrate, some triangle-fashion, - Some circular, some oval in translation; - Some perpendicular in longitude, - Some like a thicket for their crassitude. - The heighths, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round, - And rules geometrical in Beards are found.” - -Footnote 36: - - “The stiletto Beard - It makes me afeard - It is so sharp beneath: - - For he that doth wear - A dagger in his face, - What must he wear in his sheath.” - _Old Author._ - - “Who make sharp Beards and little breeches Deities.” - _Beaumont and Fletcher._ - -Under Charles the 2nd, the Beard dwindled into the mere moustache, and -then vanished. And when we consider the French apery of that un-English -court, it is no wonder the Beard appeared too bold and manly an ensign -to be tolerated. It went out first among the upper classes in London, -and by slow degrees the sturdy country squires and yeomen also yielded -their free honors to the slavish effeminate fashion, which, by the force -of example, descended even to the working classes, on whom it imposed -new burdens and some bodily diseases from which their hardy frames had -been hitherto exempt. It is to be hoped, that when any one for the -future talks about the Beard being a _foreign_ fashion, he will be -reminded that it is a good old English natural fashion, and that the -present custom of shaving was borrowed from France, at a time when we -had no credit to borrow anything else, seeing that king, courtiers, and -patriots, were all the pensioned dependents of the French monarch! The -sooner therefore we cease to shave, the sooner shall we wipe out the -remembrance of a disgraceful period of our history! - -One amusing proof that the Beard continued to be worn by the country -people after its decline about the court, is afforded by an anecdote of -the notorious Judge Jeffries, who, in his browbeating way, thus -addressed a party before him. “If your conscience be as large as your -Beard, fellow! it must be a swinging one.” To which the witness replied, -“If consciences be measured by Beards, I am afraid your lordship has -none at all.” - -In 1700, Charles V ascended the throne of Spain, with a smooth chin; and -his example was gradually followed, though the popular feeling has been -condensed into the proverb—“Since we have lost our Beards, we have lost -our souls;” and no one can question that loss of Beard and empire in -that country have singularly coincided. - -Two brief anecdotes will shew the sense of honor which formerly resided -in Spanish and Portuguese Beards. - -Cid Rai Diaz dying, a spiteful Jew stole into the room to do what he -durst not when Diaz was alive—pluck the noble Spaniard’s Beard! As he -stooped for the purpose, the body started up and drew the sword lying in -state by its side. The Jew fled horror-struck; the corpse smiled grimly, -and resumed its repose; and the Jew turned Christian. - -When the brave John de Castro had taken the Indian fortress of Dieu, -being in want of supplies, he pledged one of his moustaches for a -thousand pistoles, saying “all the gold in the world cannot equal the -value of this natural ornament of my valour.” The inhabitants of Goa, -especially the ladies, were so struck with this magnaminous sacrifice, -that they raised the money and redeemed the pledge. - -The last European nation to lay aside the Beard was the Russian, in -whose ancient code it was enacted that whoever plucks hair from -another’s Beard shall be fined four times as much as for cutting off a -finger. Peter the Great, (who always remained a semi-savage), like many -other half-informed reformers, sought to accomplish his objects by -arbitrary measures rather than by moral persuasion. Having, when in the -west, seen unbearded faces, he jumped to the conclusion that absence of -Beard was a necessary part of civilization; forgetting that a shaven -savage is a savage still. He therefore ordered all his subjects to -shave, imposing a tax of one hundred roubles on all nobles, gentlemen, -tradesmen, and artizans, and a copeck on the lower classes. Great -commotions were the result; but Peter was obstinate and made a crusade -with scissors and razor, much resembling a Franco-African Razzia, which -you know means a clean shave of everything with very dirty hands! Some, -to avoid disgrace, parted with their Beards voluntarily, but all -preserved the hairs to be buried in their coffins; the more -superstitious believing that unless they could present theirs to St. -Nicholas, he would refuse them admission to heaven as Beardless -Christians. - -One of the most difficult tasks was to deal with the army; in this, -Peter proceeded with characteristic cunning. Through the agency of the -priests, the soldiers were told that they were going to fight the Turks, -who wore Beards, and that their patron saint St. Nicholas would not be -able to protect his beloved Russians, unless they consented to -distinguish themselves by removing their Beards! You see how stale are -the Czar’s late tricks! Convinced by this pious fraud, the credulous -soldiers obeyed the imperial mandate. The next war, however, was against -the Swedes, and the soldiers, who had suffered severely from shaving, -turned the tables upon the priests, and said, “the Swedes have no -Beards, we must therefore let ours grow again, lest, as you say, the -holy Nicholas should not know us!” - -It is a note-worthy historical fact, which shews the danger arising from -discarding the natural for the artificial, that as _Beards died out, -false hair came in_. A mountain of womanish curls rested on the head, -and was made to fall in effeminate ringlets over neck and shoulders, -while the whole face was kept as smooth, and smug, and characterless as -razor could make it. This renders it so disagreeable a task to look -through a series of Kneller’s portraits, who, clever as he was, could -not impart the freedom and vigour of nature to this absurd fashion. A -portrait of Addison,[37] was shewn as an illustration, because, as has -been seen, though he complied with the mode, he was occasionally favored -with visions of better times, past and to come.[38] - -Footnote 37: - - I cannot refrain from alluding in a note to a curious fact. On the day - this Lecture was given, a little boy was brought to look at the - portraits just after they were hung. I said to him, “Edward, which - face do you like best?” He instantly touched the portrait of Addison, - and said, “that’s the best woman,” and “that’s the best man!” pointing - to the well-bearded face of Leonardo da Vinci. - -Footnote 38: - - That Southey had the same compunctious visitings as Addison, appears - clearly enough, for while in his Doctor he compares “shaving at home” - with “slavery abroad;” states that “a good razor is more difficult to - meet with, than a good wife;” denounces the practice “as preposterous - and irrational,” as “troublesome, inconvenient,” and attended with - “discomfort, especially in frosty weather and March winds;” places it - on an equality with the curse pronounced on Eve; and concludes with - the opinion that “if the daily shavings of one year could be put into - one shave, the operation would be more than flesh and blood could - bear;” he has nothing to say in favour of shaving, but that it - encourages Barbers, compels the shaver to some moments of calm thought - and reflection, and enables him to draw lessons from the looking glass - that nobody with razor in hand ever thought of. These words in another - place give a key to his real opinion. “If I wore a Beard,” he writes, - “I would cherish it as the Cid Campeador did his, for my pleasure. I - would regale it on a Summer’s day with rose-water, and without making - it an idol, I should sometimes offer incense to it with a pastille, or - with lavender and sugar. My children, when they were young enough for - such blandishments, would have delighted to comb and stroke and curl - it, and my grandchildren in their time would have succeeded to the - same course of mutual endearment.” - - See also Leigh Hunt’s humourous paper on Lie-abeds in the Indicator, - where he calls “shaving a villainous and unnecessary custom.” - -To the reign of false curls, succeeded that still more egregious -outrage—that climax of coxcombry—powder, pomatum, and pigtails! The -former to give the snows of age to the ruddy face of youth; the latter -being, I suppose, an attempt of some bright genius to outdo nature, - - By hanging a stiff black tail behind, - Instead of a flowing beard before, - As if, by this ensign, the world to remind, - How wise it had grown since old father Noah. - -This was the period when every breeze was a Zephyr, every maid a Chlöe, -every woman a Venus, and every fat squinting child a Cupid! Later German -critics even christen the writers of this school, “the Pigtail -Poets.”[39] - -Footnote 39: - - Seume, a German poet of a better school, in his travels says, “To-day - I threw my powder apparatus out of window, when will the day come that - I can send my shaving apparatus after it!” - -The first French Revolution made an end of all this trumpery, and though -Alison and other professed historians have not classed the event among -the good things flowing from that fearful flood of blood and blasphemy, -it was not one of the least, and society cannot rejoice too much at -being delivered from the example of systematic frippery, frivolity, and -tricked-out vice of the later French Sovereigns, imitated as they were -by most of the petty puppet Princes of Germany— - - Each lesser ape in his small way, - Playing his antics like the greater. - -About the rise of the first Napoleon to power, a more simple, severe, -and classic taste, was beginning to prevail, and this dictated a return -to the Beard. Under the military despotism, however, of that Emperor, -moustaches were forbidden to civilians, and the Beard restrained to that -petty, hairy imitation of a reversed triangle—called after its reviver, -who never personally wore it—the _imperial_, as if to denote to the -people that they were to have the smallest possible share in the -_empire_. - -With every attempt at freedom on the Continent, the Beard re-appears; it -was one of the most effective standards in the war of freedom, when -Germany rose against Napoleon. In 1830, it was partially revived in -France, and later still it has made many a perjured continental -monarch[40] “quake and tremble in his capital,” and reminded him that in -spite of neglected promises and false oaths, the reign of injustice -“hangs but on a hair,” of which the police will not always be able to -check the free growth. - -Footnote 40: - - One hardly knows which is the most detestable, the canting hypocrisy - of Prussian constitutional pretence,—the more open poltroonery of - Neapolitan despotism—or the paternal care to prevent even the buddings - of free thought as in Austria, where I can state from my own knowledge - that Schiller’s works were seized as contraband on the Hungarian - frontier, and a party in the Austrian service who had attempted to - defend the conduct of the government at a Table d’Hôte was sent for by - the head of the police, and when to excuse himself he alleged he was - speaking for the government, was replied to—“Young man, the government - want no defence—no discussion—and your wisest course is to be silent!” - -I have now merely to notice very briefly, four modern objections to the -Beard. - -I. “_That it is less cleanly than shaving._” To this, the answer is, -that depends upon the wearer; and it will take less time to keep clean, -than to shave, especially where, as in England, every one washes the -face more than once a day. Besides, if this were an argument, we had -better shave the head and eyebrows as well. - -II. “_That it would take as much time to keep the Beard in order, as to -shave._” Supposing even it did, still there is a most important -difference both in the two operations and in their results. For the -process of combing and brushing the Beard, instead of being tedious, -uncertain, and often painful, like shaving,[41] confers a positively -delightful sensation, similar to that which one may imagine a cat to -experience, - -Footnote 41: - - There is something in the operation of shaving which, besides its - painfulness, ought to make it repulsive to those who do not shave - themselves—such as having the face bedaubed with lather and rubbed - with a brush, which has done the same office for hundreds of chins. It - is amusing to hear a knot of free and independent Englishmen roaring - “Britons never will be slaves;” most of whom will give their chins to - be mown and their noses to be pulled by any common Barber, and pay him - too for the pulling. Even when the party is a self-shaver, to say - nothing of the waste of time, what a number of petty annoyances and - exercises of temper does it involve! Notwithstanding the boasts of - cold water shavers, depend upon it in rigorous weather most people - prefer hot to cold water, which renders them slaves to their servants; - next, razors, as we know from puff advertisements and our own - experience, are the most uncertain of articles; then there is the - state of the nerves, that even the strongest cannot always control, - causing the unsteady hand to gash and hack the chin, or cover it with - blood from the beheading of those pimply eruptions of which the razor - has been ofttimes the originator. - - When smoothing gently down its fur, - It answers with a purr, purr, purr; - And in its drooping half-shut eye, - A dreamy pleasure we espy. - -And while the result of shaving is a mere negation, depriving us of a -natural protection, and exposing us to disease, the other process, -consume what time we will, is natural and instinctive, and attended with -the satisfaction of adding the grace of neatness to nature’s stamp of -man’s nobility. - -III. “_That the ladies dont like it!_” This Professor Burdach and Dr. -Elliotson, pronounce a foul libel.[42] Ladies by their very nature like -every thing manly; and though from custom the Beard may at first sight -have a strange look, they will soon be reconciled to it, and think, with -Beatrice, that a man without, “_is only fit to be their waiting -gentlewoman_.”[43] I have already mentioned one instance of a queen -despising her husband, because he was priest-ridden enough to shave; and -here I present you with a second in this veritable portrait (shewing it) -of a painter in the reign of George I, of the name of Liotard, who -having returned from his travels in the East, with this fine flow of -curling comeliness, was irresistible. He followed his fate, and married, -but then, alas, unhappy wretch! took one day the whim to shave off his -Eastern glory. Directly his wife saw him, the charm of that ideal which -every true woman forms of her lover, was broken; for instead of a -dignified manly countenance, her eyes fell upon a small pinched face, -with nose celestial and mouth most animally terrestial, - -Footnote 42: - - Old Burton in his Anatomy of Melancholy adds his quaint testimony. “No - sooner doth a young man see his sweetheart coming, than he smugs up - himself, pulls up his cloak, ties his garter points, sets his band and - cuffs, sticks his hair, _twires his Beard_,” &c. - - D’Israeli also says, “when the fair sex were accustomed to behold - their lovers with Beards, the sight of a shaved chin excited feelings - of horror and aversion; as much indeed as in this less heroic age - would a gallant whose luxuriant Beard should ‘Stream like a meteor to - the troubled air.’” - -Footnote 43: - - The whole dialogue from whence this phrase is taken, is suggestive of - the contempt with which the ladies of Elizabeth and James the 1st’s - time regarded a hairless chin. And there are numerous passages in our - old Dramatists which might be quoted to the same effect, but that some - of the allusions do not square with modern notions of delicacy. - - And such a little perking chin, - To kiss it seemed almost a sin! - -IV. “_That a Beard may be very comfortable in Winter but too hot in -Summer!_” The better races of the sons of torrid Africa wear Beards, as -did the ancient Numidians, and Tyro-African Carthaginians before them. -The Arab in the arid parching desert cherishes his! Are we afraid of -being warmer than these in an English Summer? Besides, as we have -already shewn, the Beard is a non-conductor of heat as well as cold.[44] - -Footnote 44: - - It is scarcely conceivable what strange remarks have been made to me - on the subject of the Beard. One party very gravely enquired whether I - really thought that Adam had a Beard? Another was remonstrating with - me on the first manifestations of my moustache; against whom I - wickedly urged the argumentum ad feminam—you don’t object to it in the - military? when the daughter naively chimed in, “why you know, Sir, _it - is natural to them_!” Two or three acute persons, one of them a - lawyer, have objected, “but you have your hair cut!” To which I have - replied, “yes! but I don’t shave it off; and I trim my Beard instead - of removing it. You also pare your nails; but you don’t think of - plucking them out, do you?” - -Having now, ladies and gentlemen, offered proofs that the Beard is a -natural feature of the male face, and designed by Providence for -distinction, protection, and ornament, and shewn you historically, that -while there was never any sufficient reason alleged for leaving it off, -unless a heaven condemned superstition, or the capricious dictates of -fops and profligates, afford to any sound mind reasonable motives of -action, need I ask you not to oppose the efforts of those who, -reverencing the Creator’s laws as above the dictates of man, conceive -themselves justified in returning to the more natural course. On our -part we will, notwithstanding all that we have said, freely allow any -one to continue the practice of shaving, who will be content with the -same plea as a certain Duke de Brissac, who was often overheard uttering -the following soliloquy while adjusting his razor to the proper angle. -“Timoleon de Cosse, God hath made thee a Gentleman, and the King hath -made thee a Duke; it is right and fit, however, that thou shouldst have -something to do, therefore thou shalt shave thyself!” - - -------------- - - HADDOCK, (LATE PAWSEY,) PRINTER, IPSWICH. - - -[Illustration] - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ● Transcriber’s Notes: - ○ Some of the text on the title page was illegible, and was omitted. - ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. - ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. - ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only - when a predominant form was found in this book. - ○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_). - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEARDS *** - -***** This file should be named 60009-0.txt or 60009-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/0/0/60009/ - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - diff --git a/old/60009-0.zip b/old/60009-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c5e0ee8..0000000 --- a/old/60009-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h.zip b/old/60009-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a416a83..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/60009-h.htm b/old/60009-h/60009-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 2f52cb3..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/60009-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3185 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> - <title>The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing--A Project Gutenberg eBook</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - body { margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 8%; } - h1 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.4em; } - h2 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.2em; } - h3 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.2em; } - p { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; text-align: justify; } - sup { vertical-align: top; font-size: 0.6em; } - .sc { font-variant: small-caps; } - .large { font-size: large; } - .xlarge { font-size: x-large; } - .xxlarge { font-size: xx-large; } - .lg-container-b { text-align: center; } - @media handheld { .lg-container-b { clear: both; } } - .linegroup { display: inline-block; text-align: left; } - @media handheld { .linegroup { display: block; margin-left: 1.5em; } } - .linegroup .group { margin: 1em auto; } - .linegroup .line { text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em; } - div.linegroup > :first-child { margin-top: 0; } - .linegroup .in1 { padding-left: 3.5em; } - .linegroup .in2 { padding-left: 4.0em; } - .linegroup .in5 { padding-left: 5.5em; } - .linegroup .in6 { padding-left: 6.0em; } - ul.ul_1 {padding-left: 0; margin-left: 2.78%; margin-top: .5em; - margin-bottom: .5em; list-style-type: disc; } - ul.ul_2 {padding-left: 0; margin-left: 6.94%; margin-top: .5em; - margin-bottom: .5em; list-style-type: circle; } - div.footnote {margin-left: 2.5em; } - div.footnote > :first-child { margin-top: 1em; } - div.footnote .label { display: inline-block; width: 0em; text-indent: -2.5em; - text-align: right; } - div.pbb { page-break-before: always; } - hr.pb { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-bottom: 1em; } - @media handheld { hr.pb { display: none; } } - .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } - .figcenter { clear: both; max-width: 100%; margin: 2em auto; text-align: center; } - div.figcenter p { text-align: center; text-indent: 0; } - .figcenter img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; } - .id001 { width:446px; } - .id002 { width:600px; } - .id003 { width:464px; } - .id004 { width:400px; } - @media handheld { .id001 { margin-left:22%; width:55%; } } - @media handheld { .id002 { margin-left:12%; width:75%; } } - @media handheld { .id003 { margin-left:21%; width:58%; } } - @media handheld { .id004 { margin-left:25%; width:50%; } } - .ic002 { width:100%; } - .ig001 { width:100%; } - .nf-center { text-align: center; } - .nf-center-c0 { text-align: left; margin: 0.5em 0; } - img.drop-capi { float: left; margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; position: relative; z-index: 1; } - p.drop-capi1_1 { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - p.drop-capi1_2 { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - p.drop-capi1_1:first-letter { color: transparent; visibility: hidden; - margin-left: -1.1em; } - p.drop-capi1_2:first-letter { color: transparent; visibility: hidden; - margin-left: -1.2em; } - @media handheld { - img.drop-capi { display: none; visibility: hidden; } - p.drop-capi1_1:first-letter { color: inherit; visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0em; } - p.drop-capi1_2:first-letter { color: inherit; visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0em; } - } - p.drop-capa0_3_0_65 { text-indent: -0.3em; } - p.drop-capa0_3_0_65:first-letter { float: left; margin: 0.100em 0.100em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; line-height: 0.65em; text-indent: 0; } - @media handheld { - p.drop-capa0_3_0_65 { text-indent: 0; } - p.drop-capa0_3_0_65:first-letter { float: none; margin: 0; font-size: 100%; } - } - .c000 { margin-top: 1em; } - .c001 { margin-top: 4em; } - .c002 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 45%; width: 10%; margin-right: 45%; } - .c003 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 1em; } - .c004 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 45%; width: 10%; margin-right: 45%; - margin-top: 1em; } - .c005 { margin-top: 2em; } - .c006 { page-break-before:auto; margin-top: 4em; } - .c007 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 45%; width: 10%; margin-right: 45%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c008 { margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c009 { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c010 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 40%; width: 20%; margin-right: 40%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c011 { margin-top: 2em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c012 { text-decoration: none; } - .c013 { margin-left: 5.56%; margin-right: 5.56%; margin-top: 1em; font-size: 85%; - text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c014 { margin-left: 5.56%; margin-right: 5.56%; font-size: 85%; text-align: right; - } - .c015 { margin-top: 1em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c016 { margin-left: 1.39%; margin-top: 1em; font-size: 85%; } - .c017 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 2em; } - .c018 { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c019 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 40%; width: 20%; margin-right: 40%; } - .c020 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; width: 10%; margin-left: 0; - margin-top: 2em; text-align: left; } - .c021 { font-size: 85%; } - .c022 { margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c023 { text-align: right; } - body {width:80%; margin:auto; } - .tnbox {background-color:#E3E4FA;border:1px solid silver;padding: 0.5em; - margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .blackletter {font-family: "Lucida Blackletter", serif; } - h1 {font-family: "Old English Text MT" } - .gs4 {letter-spacing: 4px } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: The Philosophy of Beards - A Lecture: Physiological, Artistic & Historical - -Author: Thomas S. Gowing - -Release Date: July 29, 2019 [EBook #60009] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEARDS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>PRICE ONE SHILLING.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c002' /> -<div> - <h1 class='c003'><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></h1> -</div> -<hr class='c004' /> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='xlarge'>Physiological, Artistic & Historical.</span></div> - <div class='c000'>by</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>T. S. Gowing.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Ipswich.</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Published by <span class='large'>J. Haddock.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class="gs4">Londo</span>n:</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>T. T. Lamare, 2, Oxford Arms Passage.</div> - <div>Paternoster Row</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/frontis.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>The Ape and the Goat</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'><span class='xlarge'>Preface.</span></h2> -</div> - -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_65 c008'>THE following Lecture, the first I believe on the -specific subject, met with a warm reception from a -numerous and good-humoured auditory; and received long -and flattering notices from the local papers, “the Ipswich -Journal,” and “the Suffolk Chronicle.” My enterprising -and liberal publisher, has thought it worthy of more extended -circulation. May the public think with him, and -take it off his hands as freely as he has taken it off mine!</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have modified the passages which referred to the -illustrations; the greater portion of which it would, independently -of expense, have been impossible to give with -any effect on a small scale. Mr. F. B. Russel, (to whom -with his worthy brother artist, Mr. Thomas Smyth, I was -indebted for the original design,) has, with a kindness I -can better appreciate than acknowledge, anastaticized the -humorous drawing of the ape and the goat, (page 21,) -with which their joint talents enriched my Lecture. Mr. -Russel has also very skilfully introduced into the title -page, reduced copies of the three view’s of the Greek head -of Jupiter, referred to at page 14.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since its delivery, many notes have been added to the -Lecture, which it is hoped will afford both amusement and -information. It now only remains for me to make my bow, -wish my “<i>fratres barbati</i>,” long life to their Beards, and -shout</p> -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c005'> - <div>Vivat Regina!</div> - <div class='c000'>Floreat Barba!</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c005'> - <div><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c010' /> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i001.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -OUR most universal and most imaginative Poet, -whose single lines are often abstracts and epitomes -of poems, makes Hamlet exclaim—“What a piece of work -is man! How noble in reason! how infinite in faculties! -in form and moving, how express and admirable! in -action, how like an angel! in apprehension, how like a -God! the beauty of the world! the paragon of animals!” -And yet this same glorious creature, thus worthily praised, -is, with singular contradiction, so forgetful of his higher attributes, -that he can despise his reason! ignore his infinite -faculties! deliberately deface that form so express and -admirable! descend to actions that smack rather of the -demon than the angel! Drown his godlike apprehension -in drink! Shave off his majestic beauty! and become, -instead of the paragon—the parody of animals!</p> - -<p class='c009'>O Fashion! most mighty, but most capricious of goddesses! -what strange vagaries playest thou with the sons -and daughters of men! What is there so lovely, that thou -canst not, with a word, transform into an object of disgust -and abhorrence? What so ugly and repulsive, but thou -hast the art to exalt it into a golden image for thy slaves -to worship, on pain of the fiery furnace of ridicule? Could -a collection be made of the forms and figures, modes and -mummeries, which thou hast imposed on thy ofttimes too -willing votaries, it would task the most vivid imagination, -the most fantastic stretch of fancy, to furnish a description -of the incongruous contents!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Perhaps no human feature has been more the subject of -Fashion’s changeable humours than the <span class='sc'>Beard</span>, of which it -is purposed to night to render some account, in the hope -of being able to prove that in no instance has she been -guilty of more deliberate offences against nature and reason! -With this object in view, the structure, intention, -and uses of the Beard will be examined, and its artistic -relations indicated; its history will next be traced; and a -reply will then be briefly given to some objections against -wearing the Beard, not embraced in the preceding matter.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i002.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>I. PHYSIOLOGY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i003.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -A QUAINT old Latin author asks, “What is a Beard? -Hair? and what is Hair? a Beard?” Perhaps a -Beard may be defined more clearly by stating, that in its -full extent it comprehends all hair visible on the countenance -below the eyes, naturally growing down the sides of -the face, crossing the cheeks by an inverted arch, fringing -the upper and lower lips, covering the chin above and below, -and hanging down in front of the neck and throat:—moustaches -and whiskers being merely parts of a general -whole. The hair of the head differs from that of the -Beard. In an enlarged microscopical view, the former is -seen to resemble a flattened cylinder, tapering off towards -the extremity. It has a rough outer bark, and a finer -inner coat; and contains, like a plant, its central pith, consisting -of oil and coloring matters. At the lower part it is -bulbous, and the pith vessels rest on a large vesicle. The -bulb is enclosed in a fold of the skin, and imbedded in the -sebaceous glands. The root is usually inserted obliquely -to the surface. Avoiding further detail, let me at once -direct your attention to the circumstance, that whereas -the hair of the head is only furnished with one pith tube, -that of the Beard, is provided with two.<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c012'><sup>[1]</sup></a> Is not this a -striking fact to commence with? and does it not at once -suggest that this extra provision must have a special purpose? -It has, as we shall presently see; and only now -add, that the hairs of the Beard are more deeply inserted -and more durable; flatter, and hence more disposed to curl.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As the Beard makes its appearance simultaneously with -one of the most important natural changes in man’s constitution, -it has in all ages been regarded as the ensign -of manliness. All the leading races of men, whether of -warm or cold climates, who have stamped their character -on history—Egyptians, Indians, Jews, Assyrians, Babylonians, -Persians, Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Celts, Turks, -Scandinavians, Sclaves—were furnished with an abundant -growth of this natural covering. Their enterprizes were -accordingly distinguished by a corresponding vigour and -daring. The fact, too, is indisputable, that their hardiest -efforts were cotemporaneous with the existence of their -Beards; and a closer investigation would show that the -rise and fall of this natural feature has had more influence -on the progress and decline of nations, than has hitherto -been suspected. Though there are <i>individual</i> exceptions, -the absence of Beard is usually a sign of physical and -moral weakness; and in degenerate tribes wholly without, -or very deficient, there is a conscious want of manly -dignity, and contentedness with a low physical, moral, -and intellectual condition. Such tribes have to be sought -for by the physiologist and ethnologist; the <i>historian</i> is -never called upon to do honor to their deeds. Nor is it -without significance that the effeminate Chinese have -signalized their present attempt to become once more free -men, instead of tartar tools—by a formal resolve to have -done with pigtails, and let their hair take its natural course -over head and chin.<a id='r2' /><a href='#f2' class='c012'><sup>[2]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>But the hair does not merely act as an external sign; -it has, or it would not be there, its own proper and distinct -functions to perform. The most important of these is the -protection of some of the most susceptible portions of -our frame from cold and moisture—those fruitful sources -of painful, and often fatal, disease. And what more -admirable contrivance could be thought of for this purpose -than a free and graceful veil of hair—a substance possessing -the important properties of power to repel moisture, -and to serve as a non-conductor of heat and electricity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Let me now show you what lies underneath the surface -naturally covered by the Beard. We have first that -ganglion or knot, the seat of the exquisitely painful affection -tic doloureux. From it you will perceive white threads of -nerves radiating to the jaws precisely in the line protected -by the Beard. As you contemplate it, you can hardly -fail to be struck with the fact, that in shaving may sometimes -originate that local paralysis which disfigures the -corners of the mouth. Next we have the nerves of the -teeth, which all know to be so affected by changes of -temperature.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Glance now, if you please, at those glands which secrete -and elaborate the lymph which is to form part of the circulating -fluid, and in which scrofula often has its origin, -and some say its name. They are peculiarly liable to be -affected by cold and moisture, presenting then those well-known -unsightly swellings about the neck: they therefore -receive an extra protection, the hair usually growing much -more thickly on the parts where they are met with than -elsewhere.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There are another set of glands, the sebaceous, which -are thickly concentrated on the chin. Now shaving is the -cause that the hairs on this part are liable to a peculiar -and very irritating disease, which imparts a kind of foretaste -of purgatory to many unfortunate victims of that -unnatural practice. Those with strong beards most righteously -suffer the most; for the more efficient the natural -protection is, the greater is also the folly of its removal.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Lastly, there are the tonsils, and the glands of the -throat and larynx. Few require to be told how common -at present are acute and chronic affections of these parts.</p> - -<p class='c009'>That the Beard was intended as a protection to the -whole of them, any one may satisfy himself by wearing it -and then shaving it off in cold or damp weather. If not -inclined to try this experiment, and mind I do not recommend -it, perhaps the following evidence will be sufficiently -convincing. Firstly, the historical fact that the Russian -soldiers, when compelled to shave by Peter the Great, -suffered most severely. Secondly, the medical testimony -extracted from the Professional Dictionary of Dr. Copeland, -one of the first Physicians of the day, where it is stated, -“Persons in the habit of wearing long Beards, have often -been affected with rheumatic pains in the face, or with -sore throat on shaving them off. In several cases of -chronic sore throat, wearing the Beard under the chin, or -upon the throat, has prevented a return of the complaint.” -Thirdly, the fact that several persons in this town (Ipswich) -have been so cured. And lastly, this brief but important -testimony of the men of the Scottish Central -Railway, dated Perth, 24th August, 1853.</p> - -<p class='c013'>“We, the servants of the Scottish Central Railway, beg -to inform you, that having last summer seen a circular -recommending the men employed upon railways to cultivate -the growth of their Beards, as the best protection -against the inclemency of the weather, have been induced -to follow this advice; and the benefit we have derived -from it, induces us to recommend it to the general adoption -of our brothers in similar circumstances throughout -the kingdom. We can assure them, from our own experience, -that they will by this means be saved from the bad -colds and sore throats of such frequent occurrence without -this natural protection.”</p> -<div class='c014'>Signed by 5 Guards, 1 Inspector of Police,</div> -<div class='c014'>2 Engine Men, and 1 Fireman.</div> - -<p class='c015'>Let us next see, for it is a highly interesting point in a -consumption-breeding climate like ours, where thousands -of victims annually die, <i>how</i> the entrances to the air passages -and lungs are protected by the upper part of the -beard—the moustache. We draw air in commonly -through the nose, and breathe it out through the mouth: -though occasionally the two passages exchange functions. -In a section of the nose, the interior of the nostril is seen -to communicate, by a slightly curved passage, with the -back entrance to the mouth and throat. Now as the -incoming air must follow the direction of the draught, you -will readily perceive that any air entering by the nostrils -must pass through or over the hair of the moustache, and -be warmed in the passage: and when the air makes its -way by the mouth, it must pass under the moustache and -be warmed, like that under the eaves of a thatched roof.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The moustache, however, not merely warms the inspired -air, but filters it from superfluous moisture, dirt, dust, and -smoke; and soon we trust it will be deemed as rational to -deprive the upper lip of its protecting fringe, as to shave -the eyebrows or pluck out the eyelashes.<a id='r3' /><a href='#f3' class='c012'><sup>[3]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Those to whom the extent of preventible disease among -our artizans—disease arising solely from their employments -is unknown, I must refer to Mr. Thackrah’s book -on that specific subject. Scientific ingenuity had long -attempted to devise contrivances to relieve the men from -some of these diseases; but the schemes were found too -cumbrous, or otherwise impracticable. As so often happens, -what <i>men</i> were profoundly searching for, <i>nature</i> had -placed directly under their noses. Mr. Chadwick, to whom -the public are indebted for much valuable information on -questions connected with the public health, and Dr. -Alison, of Glasgow, one of whom had seen the particles -of iron settling on and staining the Beards of foreign -smiths; and the other had noticed the dusty Beards of -foreign masons when at work, were led to the conclusion, -independently of each other, that the iron and stone dust -were much better deposited on the Beard (whence they -could be washed), than in the lungs, where they would be -sure to cause disease. The lungs of a mason for instance -are preserved in Edinburgh, which are one concrete mass -of stone. These gentlemen published their convictions; -and through the beneficial agency of the press, that information, -aided by papers in the “Builder,” and in -“Dickens’s Household Words,” soon found its way to our -artizans, many of whom have tried the experiment, and -borne testimony to its satisfactory results. At this -juncture, let us also hope that the reiterated opinions of -eminent Army Surgeons will at length be listened to, and -the British Soldier be freed from the apoplectic leathern -stock, and allowed to wear that protection which nature -endowed him with. To the latter the most rigid economist -cannot object, since it will add nothing to the estimates, -while it will enable the soldier to offer, if not a -bolder, at least a more formidable front, to the foe, and -save him from many of the hazards of the march in which -more die than on the field of battle!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Though the subject has as yet received too little scientific -attention, there can be no doubt that the hair generally -has a further important function to perform in regulating -the electricity which is so intimately connected with the -condition of the nerves.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have reserved to the last the curious fact, which in -itself is perfectly conclusive as to the protecting office of -the Beard, and explains why its hair has additional provision -for its nourishment; and this fact is, that while the -hair of the head usually falls off with the approach of age, -that of the Beard, on the contrary, continues to <i>grow</i> and -<i>thicken</i> to the latest period of life. He must be indeed insensible -to all evidence of design, who does not acknowledge -in this a wise and beneficent provision, especially -when he connects with it the other well-known fact, that -the skull becomes denser, and the brain less sensitive, while -the parts shielded by the Beard are more susceptible than -ever, and have less vitality to contend with prejudicial -influences.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Before proceeding further it may be as well briefly to -answer the question, why, if Beards be so necessary for -men, women have no provision of the kind? The reason I -take to be this, that they are women, and were consequently -never intended to be exposed to the hardships and difficulties -men are called upon to undergo. Woman was made -a help meet for man, and it was designed that man should -in return, protect her to the utmost of his power from those -external circumstances which it is his duty boldly to encounter. -Her hair grows naturally longer, and in the -savage state she is accustomed to let it fall over the neck -and shoulders. The ancient Athenian and Lombard -women are even said to have accompanied their husbands -to the battle-field with their hair so arranged as to imitate -the Beard. In more civilized society, various contrivances -are resorted to by the gentler sex for protection, -which would be utterly unsuitable to the sterner. In saying -this I do not include the present absurd bonnet, which -seems purposely contrived to expose rather than shield the -fair, and to excite our pity and cause us to tremble while -we cannot but admire!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two curious exceptional cases of bearded women must -not be passed over; one, that of a female soldier in the -army of Charles XII, who was taken at the battle of Pultowa, -where she had fought with a courage worthy of her -Beard: the other, that of Margaret of Parma, the celebrated -Regent of the Netherlands, who conceived that her -Beard imparted such dignity to her appearance, that she -would never allow a hair of it to be touched.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>II. ARTISTIC DIVISION.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -NOT only was the Beard intended to serve the important -purposes just described; but, combining -beauty with utility, to impart manly grace and free finish -to the male face. To its picturesqueness Poets and Painters, -the most competent judges, have borne universal testimony. -It is indeed impossible to view a series of bearded -portraits, however indifferently executed, without feeling -that they possess dignity, gravity, freedom, vigour, and -completeness; while in looking on a row of razored faces, -however illustrious the originals, or skilful the artists, a -sense of artificial conventional bareness is experienced.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Addison gives vent to the same notion, when he makes -Sir Roger de Coverley point to a venerable bust in Westminster -Abbey, and ask “whether our forefathers did not -look much wiser in their Beards, than we without them?” -and say, “for my part, when I am in my gallery in the -country, and see my ancestors, who many of them died -before they were of my age, I cannot forbear regarding -them as so many old Patriarchs, and at the same time -looking upon myself as an idle smock-faced young fellow. -I love to see your Abrahams, your Isaacs, and your Jacobs, -as we have them in the old pieces of tapestry, with Beards -below their girdles that cover half the hangings.” The -knight added, “if I would recommend Beards in one of -my papers, and endeavour to restore human faces to their -ancient dignity, upon a month’s warning he would undertake -to lead up the fashion himself in a pair of whiskers.” -In reference to this last allusion it may be as well to state, -that the word whisker is frequently used by earlier authors -to denote the moustache, and that in Addison’s time, a mass -of false hair was worn, and the head and face close shaven.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To shew that it is the Beard alone that causes the sensation -we have alluded to, look at two drawings on exactly -the same original outline, of a Greek head of Jupiter, the -one with, the other without the Beard! What say you? -Is not the experiment a sort of “occular demonstration” -in favor of nature, and a justification of art and artists? -See how the forehead of the bearded one rises like a well-supported -dome—what depth the eyes acquire—how firm -the features become—how the muscular angularity is modified—into -what free flowing lines the lower part of the oval -is resolved, and what gravity the increased length given to -the face imparts.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As amusing and instructive pendants, take two drawings -of the head of a lion, one with and the other without the -mane. You will see how much of the majesty of the king -of the woods, as well as that of the lord of the earth, -dwells in this free flowing appendage. By comparing -these drawings with those of Jupiter, you will detect, I -think, in the head of the lion whence the Greek sculptor -drew his ideal of this noble type of godlike humanity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since this idea struck me, Mr. John Marshall, in a -lecture at the Government School of Practical Art, has -remarked, “that nature leaves nothing but what is beautiful -uncovered, and that the masculine chin is seldom sightly, -because it was <i>designed to be covered</i>, while the chins of -women are generally beautiful.” This view he supported -by instancing, “that the bear, the rabbit, the cat, and the -bird, are hideous to look upon when deprived of their -hairy and feathery decorations: but the horse, the greyhound, -and other animals so sparingly covered that the -shape remains unaltered by the fur, are beautiful even in -their naked forms.” This argument, it seems to me, -applies with greater force to the various ages of man. In -the babe, the chin is exceedingly soft, and its curve blends -into those of the face and neck: in the boy it still retains -a feminine gentleness of line, but as he advances to the -youth, the bones grow more and more prominent, and the -future character begins to stamp itself upon the form: at -the approach of manhood, the lines combining with those -of the mouth become more harsh, angular, and decided; -in middle age, various ugly markings establish themselves -about both, which in age are rendered not only deeper, -but increased in number by the loss of the teeth and the -falling in of the lips, which of course distorts all the -muscles connected with the mouth. Such, however, is the -force of prejudice founded on custom, that people who -sink themselves to the ears in deep shirt collars, and to -the chin in starched cravat and stiffened stock, muffle -themselves in comforters till their necks are as big as their -waists; nay do not demur some of them to be seen in -that abomination of ugliness—that huge black patch of -deformity—a respirator, have still sufficient face left to -tell us that the expression of the countenance would be -injured by restoring the Beard!</p> - -<p class='c009'>A word, therefore, on the expression of Bearded faces. -The works of the Greeks,<a id='r4' /><a href='#f4' class='c012'><sup>[4]</sup></a> the paintings of the old -Masters, but above all the productions of the pencil of -Raphael, justly styled “the Painter of Expression,” is a -sufficient general answer to this ill-considered charge. It -would indeed be strange if He who made the male face, -and fixed the laws of every feature—clothing it with hair, -as with a garment, should in this last particular have made -an elaborate provision to mar the excellency of His own -work! Nothing indeed but the long effeminizing of our -faces could have given rise to the present shaven ideal—to -the forgetfulness of the true standard of masculine -beauty of expression, which is naturally as antipodal as the -magnetic north and south poles, to that of female loveliness, -where delicacy of line, blushing changeable colour, -and eyes that win by seeming not to wish it, are charms -we all feel, and at the same time understand how inappropriate -they are when applied to the opposite sex; where -the bold enterprizing brow—the deep penetrating eye—the -daring, sagacious nose, and the fleshy but firm mouth, -well supported on the decided projecting chin, proclaim a -being who has an appointed path to tread, and hard rough -work to do, in this world of difficulties and ceaseless transition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>So much for the general charge; if we examine the -separate features, there can be no question that the upper -part of the face—the most godlike portion—where the -mind sits enthroned, gains in expression by the addition -of and contrast with the Beard; the nose also is thrown -into higher relief, while the eyes acquire both depth and -brilliancy. The mouth, which is especially the seat of the -affections, its surrounding muscles rendering it the reflex -of every passing emotion, owes its general expression to -the line between the lips—the key to family likeness; and -this line is more sharply defined by the shadow cast by the -moustache, from which the teeth also acquire additional -whiteness, and the lips a brighter red. Neither the mouth -nor chin are, as we have said, unsightly in early life, but at -a later period the case is otherwise. There is scarcely indeed -a more <i>naturally</i> disgusting object than a beardless -old man (compared by the Turks to a “plucked pigeon,”) -with all the deep-ploughed lines of effete passions, grasping -avarice, disappointed ambition, the pinchings of -poverty, the swollen lines of self-indulgence, and the distortions -of disease and decay! Now the Beard, which, as -the Romans phrased it, “buds” on the face of youth in a -soft downiness in harmony with immature manliness, and -lengthens and thickens with the progress of life, keeps -gradually covering, varying, and beautifying, as the -“mantling ivy” the rugged oak, or the antique tower, and -by playing with its light free forms over the harsher characteristics, -imparts new graces even to decay, by heightening -all that is still pleasing, veiling all that is repulsive.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The colour of the Beard is usually warmer than that of -the hair of the head, and reflection soon suggests the -reason. The latter comes into contact chiefly with the -forehead, which has little colour; but the Beard grows out -of the face where there is always more or less. Now -nature makes use of the colours of the face in painting -the Beard—a reason by the bye for not attempting to alter -the original hue, and carries off her warm and cold colours -by that means. Never shall I forget the circumstance of -a gentleman with high colour, light brown hair, full whiskers -of a warm brown, deepening into a warm black, and -good looking, though his features, especially the nose, were -not regular—taking a whim into his head to shave off his -whiskers. Deprived of this fringe, the colour of his cheeks -looked spotty, his nose forlorn and wretched, and his whole -face like a house on a hill-top exposed to the north east, -from which the sheltering plantations had been ruthlessly -removed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The following singular fact in connection with the colour -of the Beard, I learnt in chance conversation with a hairdresser. -Observing that persons like him with high complexion -and dark hair, had usually a purple black beard: -he said, “that’s true, sir,” and told me he had “found in -his own Beard, and in those of his customers, distinct red -hairs intermingled with the black,” just as it is stated that -in the grey fur of animals there are distinct rings of white -and black hairs. This purplish bloom of a black Beard is -much admired by the Persians; and curiously enough -they produce the effect by a red dye of henna paste, followed -by a preparation of indigo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There is one other point connected with colour which -ought not to be omitted. All artists know the value of -white in clearing up colours. Now let any one look at an -old face surrounded by white hair, whether in man or -woman, and he will perceive a harmonizing beauty in it, -that no artificial imitation of more youthful colours can -possibly impart. In this, as in other cases, the natural is -the most becoming.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Permit me to conclude this section of my lecture by -reminding all who wish to let their Beards grow, that there -is a law above fashion, and that each individual face is -endowed with its individual Beard, the form and colour of -which is determined by similar laws to those which regulate -the tint of the skin, the form and colour of the hair -of the head, eyebrows, and eyelashes; and therefore the -most becoming, even if ugly in itself, to their respective -physiognomies. What suits a square face, will not suit -an oval, and a high forehead demands a different Beard to -a low one. Leave the matter therefore to nature, and in -due season the fitting form and colour will manifest themselves. -And here parties who have never shaved have this -great advantage over those who have yielded to the unnatural -custom, that hair will only be visible, even when -present, in its proper place, be better in character and -colour, and more graceful in its form.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And now, ladies and gentlemen, as all history we are -told grew out of fable, allow me, as a sort of intermezzo, -to preface my history by “a Fable for the Times.”</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>An Ape, one day, said to a Goat,</div> - <div class='line'>“Why wear that nasty ugly Beard?</div> - <div class='line'>I’ll shave you for a quarter groat</div> - <div class='line'>Cleaner than Sheep was ever shear’d.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Thank you, Sir Ape!” the Goat replied,</div> - <div class='line'>“I’ll think of it.” To court he ran,</div> - <div class='line'>Where he the foplings busy spied</div> - <div class='line'>Effacing ev’ry mark of man:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Thinking to win the softer sex</div> - <div class='line'>By making themselves <i>softer</i> still.</div> - <div class='line'>“Ah!” says our Goat, “ah! ah! I’feggs,</div> - <div class='line'>I’ll be in fashion, that I will!”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>He seats himself, the Ape’s not slow,</div> - <div class='line'>But tucks the cloth in, and then lathers;</div> - <div class='line'>When lo! stalk’d by a goodly row,</div> - <div class='line'>A solemn train of old Church Fathers!</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>With these came Doctors of each Art,</div> - <div class='line'>And each one pointed to his Beard!</div> - <div class='line'>Our Goat sprang up, with sudden start,</div> - <div class='line'>Like one whom conscience makes afeard.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“O Ape! this man’s a creature brave,</div> - <div class='line'>To whom we all like slaves submit;</div> - <div class='line'>Bearded to-day—t’morrow he’ll shave,</div> - <div class='line'>Then where’s the good of his boasted wit!</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“There’s your apron! take your basin!</div> - <div class='line'>’Tis best to abide by nature’s rule:</div> - <div class='line'>His Beard no Goat will see disgrace in,</div> - <div class='line'>Whom nature did not make a fool!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c000'> - <div>MORAL.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Let your Beards grow in their natural shapes,</div> - <div class='line'>God made you all <i>Men</i>, don’t make yourselves <i>Apes</i>!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i021.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>III. HISTORICAL SURVEY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Egyptians.</span></h3> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i022.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -HAVING seen that the Beard is a natural feature of -the male face, and that the Creator intended it for -distinction, protection, and ornament, let us turn lightly -over the pages of history and examine the estimation in -which it has been held at various times among the leading -people, ancient and modern.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first nation which suggests itself is the Egyptian, -and very peculiar forms of Beard were assigned by them -on their monuments to their gods, kings, and common -people. That of the gods is curled and the length of the -oval of the face: that of the kings is shaped like an Egyptian -doorway, and three fourths of the same standard: of -which the people’s is one fourth and nearly square. This -appendage seems from the appearance of an attaching -band to have been frequently artificial, and probably the -Egyptians, who, as you may see by the wig in the British -Museum, wore false hair, also wore false Beards. Some -have supposed the forms alluded to, to be mere symbols of -the male sex on the monuments; but this notion is disproved -by male persons being represented without them. -That they were occasionally so used, however, is clear from -the kingly Beard on that symbol of royalty the Sphynx.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The priests of this ancient nation are stated to have -removed every hair from the body thrice a week; and they -ultimately compelled the people to shave both their heads -and faces; and all slaves and servants, though foreigners, -were obliged to do the same. That this arose from some -superstitious notion of cleanliness, is confirmed by the -remark of Herodotus, “that no Egyptian of either sex, -would on any account kiss the lips of a bearded Greek, or -make use of his knife, spit, or cauldron, or taste the meat -of an animal which had been slaughtered by his hand.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>In times of mourning, however, the Egyptians allowed -the hair of the head and Beard to grow in token of grief.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Jews.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>Such was the practice of the Egyptians; and it is -highly important to take the Jews next, because at the -period of our first knowledge of them as a people, they -appear in bondage to the former nation; and it is now -generally believed that most of the usages established by -Moses had more or less reference to Egyptian customs, -from which he was desirous of weaning them. As might -be expected from the inspired Lawgiver, whose sublime -books start with the grand assertion, that man was made -“in the express image of God,” any attempt to alter -the natural features of the “human face divine,” was denounced -and emphatically interdicted. Twice is the commandment -issued—first to the whole people, “thou shalt -not mar the corners of thy Beard,” in other words, thou shalt -not alter the form thereof, which I thy God have appointed! -Then to the Priests, with the addition, that they -should not make baldness upon their heads. It is of the -utmost consequence to recall the superstitious practice of -the Egyptian Priests, and to remember that Moses issued -this command to the Aaronites, fresh from Egypt, because -it most convincingly shews that the practice of shaving, -even when resorted to with the view of pleasing the Deity, -by an extreme degree of external purity, in approaching -His mysterious presence, was directly and most absolutely -forbidden. It is as if God had said, “What art thou, O -man! who thinkest in thy vain imagination that I, thy -Creator, knew not how to fashion thee! and blasphemously -supposest that thou canst please me, by superstitiously -sacrificing what I, in my Almighty wisdom, had endowed -thee with, for protection and ornament!” And, as if to -mark the distinction more strongly, Moses enjoined in the -strictest manner every ordinary and natural method of -purifying the person.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It cannot but be instructive to note, that thus on the very -threshold of history, we have two customs so opposite -brought into contrast—the one strongly condemned, the -other most awfully sanctioned. And it is the more necessary -to mark this, because there are many religious persons -who have by custom acquired the Egyptian notion, and -forgotten its emphatic condemnation. There are many -who, though told that certain diseases to which the more -active of the clergy are specially liable, might be prevented -and may be cured, by simply wearing the Beard, will still -insist upon their ministers paying the penalty invariably -attaching to a violation of God’s laws, because their prejudices -lead them to fancy a smooth face rather than a -manly one.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As further confirmation of our idea that the object of -this law of Moses was to prevent any of the natural features -from being materially altered—he objected not to -trimming the Beard, which was a common Jewish practice—is -to be found in the first verse of the 14th chapter of -Deuteronomy, where the people are commanded not to -shave their eyebrows; which was a customary mark of grief -among some bearded nations. The Jews too, unlike the -Persians and others, instead of shaving the Beard in time -of mourning—though in the violence of oriental grief they -sometimes plucked it—usually left it merely untrimmed or -veiled, till the days of mourning were passed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>You all remember the fearful vengeance David took -when his ambassadors were disgraced by shaving their -Beards.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Beard continued to be worn in all its glory by these -chosen people, and it would be impossible for us to imagine -to ourselves the appearance of any of their patriarchs, -judges, priests, prophets, or mature kings—or of the -sublime founder of our religion—or of the chosen twelve—save -the youthful John, without this venerable and -venerated feature. What painter would dare such an -offence to our most sacred associations, as to represent any -of these with the smirking smoothness of razored neatness!</p> - -<p class='c009'>That in Mahomet’s time, the Jews still held to their -primitive custom, is evident from that lawgiver’s command -to his followers to clip the whiskers and Beard, -in order to distinguish themselves from the Jews. Indeed -the latter, in every way most remarkable people, have clung -to the prescribed custom with all the force of religious feeling -and firm conviction. And however in modern times -some of the laity, impelled by a desire to mix unobserved -amongst the populations of Western Europe, may have -sacrificed conviction to convenience, their Rabbies have -remained invariably consistent in their testimony to truth -and nature; and one of the most enduring impressions of -my youth is the remembrance of the Chief Rabbi Herschel -treading the streets of London, like the last of the prophets, -in dark robes, with long pale face and flowing -Beard,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>And eyes, whose deep mysterious glow,</div> - <div class='line'>Disdainful of each fleeting show,</div> - <div class='line'>Dwelt in the old and sacred past,</div> - <div class='line'>Or Seer-like scann’d the future, vast.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Assyrians and Babylonians.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Assyrians and Babylonians, as we know from the -researches and discoveries of Layard and others, wore -highly ornamental Beards, in which they were followed by -the ancient Persians, and the bands appearing on them -were of gold.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Persians, Arabs, and Turks.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The ancient Arabs, like their kindred, the Jews, were -Bearded, and like them also they have preserved their -Beards intact, though their faith has more than once -changed. From Mahomet’s time we may class them for -our purpose with the Turks and Persians, since all have -manifested the same respect for the Beard, looking upon -it as the perfection and completion of man’s countenance -and the type of freedom; and shaving as a mark of debasement -and slavery.<a id='r5' /><a href='#f5' class='c012'><sup>[5]</sup></a> Mahomet, who sanctioned dyeing -the Beard, preferred that it should be of a cane colour, -which was the hue assigned by tradition to Abraham’s. -One of the points of Persian heresy is preferring a black -Beard, and a particular cut; and about this hair-splitting -difference, they once waged a cruel war with the Uzbec -Tartars, in which they were accustomed to lay their enemies’ -Beards as trophies at the feet of the Shah.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As instances of respect paid to the Beard, we may cite -the common Mahomedan oath “by the Beard of the Prophet!” -and the form of supplication, “by your Beard, or -the life of your Beard.” The Turks will point to theirs -and say, “do you think this venerable Beard could lie?” -And a man’s testimony used to be so much measured by -his Beard, that in hiring a witness, length of this appendage -was an indispensable qualification. To touch another’s -Beard, unless to kiss it respectfully, is considered -by all these people a great insult. When two friends meet, -to kiss it, sometimes on both sides, answers to our shake -of the hand—how are you? and “may God preserve your -Beard!” is a form of invoking a blessing on a friend. In -the bosoms of their families the Beard is treated as an -object of reverential fondness—wife and children kissing -it with the most tender and respectful affection. To express -high value for a thing, they say, “it is worth more -than one’s Beard.”<a id='r6' /><a href='#f6' class='c012'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>“Shame on your Beard!” is a term of reproach, and -“I spit on your Beard!” an expression of the most profound -contempt. When the Shah of Persia, in 1826, was -speaking to our Ambassador, (Sir J. Malcolm,) concerning -the Russians, to shew how low he esteemed them, he -exclaimed, “I spit on their Beards!”<a id='r7' /><a href='#f7' class='c012'><sup>[7]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>To cut off the Beard is considered a deep disgrace and -degradation. The noted Wahahee Chief Saoud was accustomed -to shave the Beard as a punishment for the -gravest offences. He had long wished to purchase the -mare of a Sheikh of the Shahmanny tribe, but all his -offers were rejected. A Sheikh of the Kahtans, however, -having been sentenced to lose his hairy honors, when the -barber appeared, exclaimed, “O Saoud, take the mare of -the Shahmanny as a ransom for my Beard!” The offer -was accepted, and a bargain struck with the owner of the -mare for 2,500 dollars, which he declared he would not -have taken, nor any other sum, had it not been to save -the Beard of a noble Kahtan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Even when disease or accident renders necessary the -removal of the whole or part of the Beard, it is only at -the last extremity that an Arab will yield; and then he -lives secluded, or if obliged to go out, wears a thick black -veil, until his chin can reappear “with all its pristine -honours blushing thick upon it.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Almost every Mahomedan carries a comb with him for -the sole purpose of arranging his Beard: this is often -done, especially after prayers; when the devotee usually -remains sitting on his heels and industriously using the -comb. The hairs which fall are carefully collected, to be -either buried with the owner, or deposited previously in -his tomb, after having been first separately broken in order -to release the guardian angels.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To perfume and fumigate the Beard with incense is a -common eastern custom.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In mourning, the Persians shave themselves; and -Herodotus relates one instance when they also cropped the -manes and tails of their horses in honor of their leader -Mardonius.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One wiseacre of a Sultan is said to have shaved his -Beard, saying “his councillors should never lead him by -it, as they had done his forefathers!” forgetting that he -had still left them the convenient handle of his nose—by -which, as you know, ladies and gentlemen, people have -been led from time immemorial. Let me hope, therefore, -no one will cite this as an historical precedent for shaving.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He was fortunately succeeded by wiser men, and the -Sultan is yet distinguished by a goodly Beard:<a id='r8' /><a href='#f8' class='c012'><sup>[8]</sup></a> as is also -the Shah of Persia, and all the Arabs and their Chiefs.</p> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Greeks.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The ancient Greeks were world-famous for their Beards. -All Homer’s heroes are bearded, and Nestor the Sage is -described as stroking his as a graceful prelusion to an -oration. Saturn, Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, Mars, Vulcan, -Mercury, are represented with Beards. Apollo is without, -as an emblem of perpetual youth. Hercules and the demigods -are also well furnished. And Æsculapius the God -of Health,—significant fact!—is most abundantly endowed. -The mother of Achilles, when supplicating Jupiter, touches -his Beard with one hand, with the other his knee.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As might be supposed from their hardy characteristics, -the Spartans especially cherished the Beard. When one -Nicander was asked why? he replied, “because we esteem -it the ornament that preeminently distinguishes man.” It -being demanded of another why he wore so <i>long</i> a Beard? -his noble reply was, “Since it is grown white, it incessantly -reminds me not to dishonor my old age.”<a id='r9' /><a href='#f9' class='c012'><sup>[9]</sup></a> Plutarch, -after mentioning the bushy hair and Beard of the -Spartan commander Lysander, says, “that Lycurgus was of -opinion that abundance of hair and Beard made those who -were fair, more so, and those who were ugly, more terrible -to their enemies.” Regarding shaving as a mark of slavish -servitude, they compelled their chief magistrates to shave -their upper lips during their term of office, to remind -them that though administrators of the laws, they were -still subject to them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Greeks in general continued to wear the Beard till -the decay of Athenian virtue brought that free state into -subjection to the Macedonian Conqueror, who, according -to Plutarch, ordered his soldiers to shave, lest their Beards -should afford a handle to their enemies. This must have -been when he was in one of his drunken fits, or he might -have had them trimmed like the old Greek warriors.<a id='r10' /><a href='#f10' class='c012'><sup>[10]</sup></a> Be -that as it may, Greek freedom and Greek Beards expired -together.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Diogenes, cotemporary with Alexander, once asked a -smooth-chinned voluptuary whether he quarrelled with nature -for making him a man instead of a woman? And Phocion -rebuking one who courted the people and affected a long -Spartan Beard, said to him, “if thou needs must flatter, -why didst thou not clip thy Beard?”</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is a curious fact for those who resolve civilization -into shaving, that the only parties in ancient Greece -who retained their Beards under all changes were the -Philosophers, or lovers of wisdom—they with whom all -that distinguished Greek intellect was a special study and -profession; who were in fact the most civilized portion of -the community.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the time of the Emperor Justinian the Greeks -resumed the Beard, which was worn by all the Greek -Emperors down to the last, the unfortunate Paleologus, -who died fighting bravely at the taking of Constantinople -by the Turks. It was by these Emperors regarded as an -ensign of royalty—an attribute of kingly majesty.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Etruscans—Romans.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Etruscans represented their gods with Beards, and -wore them themselves; as did the Romans. Every schoolboy -recollects the awe inspired to the invading Gauls when, -on entering the Senate-house, they saw the conscript -Fathers sitting calm and immovable as the gods, for which -the Barbarians at first view took them, till one bolder than -the rest plucked at the Beard of the noble Marcus Papirius, -who by indignantly raising his staff, unconsciously gave -the signal for the murder of himself, and his venerable -compatriots.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During all the best ages of the Republic, while the old -Roman virtue retained something of its original vigour, -and before it had been sapped and undermined by the imported -vices and effeminate customs of conquered nations, -Rome’s statesmen, heroes, priests and people all wore, and -all reverenced, the virile glories of the Beard!</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was not till the year of Rome 454, about three centuries -before our era, that one of those corrupt Prætors, -who usually returned laden with foreign gold, and pampered -with foreign luxury, imported a stock of Barbers -from Sicily; and that credulous gossip Pliny libels the -younger Scipio Africanus by stating—calumnious on dit!—“that -he was the first who shaved his whole Beard.” This -is just one of those instances where a foolish custom, like -a bad piece of wit, is sought to be fathered on some world-renowned -name.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Long after the above date, the Beard was only partially -shaved or trimmed; and the same word (tondere) is -sometimes used to mean either. Of course when once the -fashion had set in, it was, as with us, considered -unbecoming to wear a Beard; and Marcus Livius on his return -from banishment, was compelled by the Censors to shave, -before appearing in the Senate.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the increasing growth of vice and effeminacy -among this once hardy race, the decreasing Beard kept -pace.<a id='r11' /><a href='#f11' class='c012'><sup>[11]</sup></a> Cæsar, the real founder of the empire, by whom -every kind of foppery and debauchery was indulged in as -a mask to deep schemes of ambition, of course shaved;<a id='r12' /><a href='#f12' class='c012'><sup>[12]</sup></a> -and having done so, shaving continued to be the imperial -fashion down to the time of Hadrian, (whose bold Roman -head I exhibited, as the first restorer of manly beauty.) -From his time most of the Emperors<a id='r13' /><a href='#f13' class='c012'><sup>[13]</sup></a> wore it till Constantine, -who shaved out of superstition. His father had a -noble Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Even after the custom of shaving was introduced, the -first appearance of the Beard was hailed with joy, and -usually about the time of assuming the toga; the “first -fruits” of hair were solemnly consecrated—relict of previous -respect—to some god, as in the case of Nero,<a id='r14' /><a href='#f14' class='c012'><sup>[14]</sup></a> who -presented his in a golden box, set with jewels, to the Capitoline -Jupiter.<a id='r15' /><a href='#f15' class='c012'><sup>[15]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Shaving in token of grief was the custom of the early -Romans; when, however, that which had been considered -a deprivation became a general fashion, the Beard was -allowed to grow in time of sorrow, to denote personal -neglect.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Roman Philosophers, like the Greek, cherished a -long Beard as the emblem of wisdom. The following -anecdote shews that it was sometimes a fallacious sign. -One of the Emperors being pestered by a man in a long -robe and Beard, asked him what he was. “Do you not -see that I am a philosopher?” was the reply. “The cloak -I see, and the Beard I see,” said the Emperor, “but the -philosopher, where is he?”</p> - -<p class='c009'>I must not conclude this notice of Roman customs -without mentioning the instructive fact, that the slaves of -the early Romans were shaved as a mark of servitude, and -not allowed to wear the distinctive sign of a free man -until emancipated. At a later period the slaves, as the -most manly, wore the Beard, and only shaved when entitled -to be put on a level with their debased and vicious -masters!</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i042.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'> -A BRIEF glance at Ecclesiastical History will -furnish one or two interesting matters. Most of the -Fathers of the Church both wore and approved of the -Beard. Clement, of Alexandria, says, “nature adorned man -like the lion, with a Beard, as the index of strength and -empire.” Lactantius, Theodoret, St. Augustine, and St. -Cyprian, are all eloquent in praise of this natural feature: -about which many discussions were raised in the early -ages of the Church, when matters of discipline necessarily -engaged much of the attention of its leaders. To settle -these disputes, at the 4th Council of Carthage, held A.D. -252, canon 44, it was enacted “that a clergyman shall -<i>not cherish his hair nor shave his Beard</i>.” (Clericus nec -comam nutriat nec barbam radat.) And Bingham quotes -an early letter, in which it is said of one who from a layman -had become a clergyman, “his habit, gait, modesty, -countenance, and discourse, were all <i>religious</i>, and <i>agreeably -to these his hair was short and his Beard long</i>;” -shewing that in those early times St. Paul was better -understood than at a later date.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Subsequently the Beard was alternately commended to -the clergy for its becoming gravity, or condemned from -the ascetic notion that pride was apt to lurk in a fine -Beard. In some of the monasteries lay members wore the -Beard, while those in orders were shaved, and the hairs, -remnant of an earlier superstition, devoutly consecrated to -God with special prayers and imposing ceremonies.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One order of the Cistercians were specially allowed to -wear their Beards, and were hence called “fratres barbati” -or Bearded brethren.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The military orders of the Church, as the Knights of -St. John and the Templars, were always full Bearded.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To touch the Beard, was at one time a solemnity by -which a godfather acknowledged the child of his adoption.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One of the fertile sources of dispute between the Roman -and Greek Churches has been this subject of wearing or -not wearing the Beard. The Greek Church, with a firm -faithfulness which does credit to its orthodoxy, has stood -manfully by the early Church decisions and refused to -admit any shaven saint into its calendar, heartily despising -the Romish Church for its weakness in this respect. On -the other hand, the Popes, to mark the distinction between -Eastern and Western christianity, early introduced statutes -“de radendis barbis,” or concerning shaving the Beard. -Here and there, however, a manly old fellow, like Pope -Julius II, who made Michael Angelo sculpture him with -a drawn sword in his hand, or a Cardinal, like Pole or -Allen, and many Bishops, managed to believe that faith -and nature might be reconciled by taking a comprehensive -and truly Catholic view of both.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The leading English and German Reformers wore their -Beards; (if Luther confined himself to a moustache, it was -because his Monkish habit of shaving was too strong for -him,) and most of the Martyrs to the Protestant Faith were -burnt in their Beards.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>MODERN HISTORY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Britons.</span></h3> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'> -THE Britons “like their neighbours the Gauls”<a id='r16' /><a href='#f16' class='c012'><sup>[16]</sup></a> (two -of whose heads were shewn copied from Roman -monuments,) were Bearded, though, probably, for some -purpose of distinction, their Chiefs, as stated by Cæsar -and others, had merely an enormous twisted moustache. -The Druids and their successors, the native British Clergy, -regarded this natural covering as adding to their dignity -and gracing their office and their age.<a id='r17' /><a href='#f17' class='c012'><sup>[17]</sup></a></p> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Saxons.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Anglo-Saxons brought their Beards with them -which they preferred of the forked shape, and this again -might be either two-pronged, or three-pronged, or -plutonian and neptunian.</p> - -<p class='c009'>St. Augustine is figured with his Beard on his appearance -to convert these Islands in the sixth century. His -followers must soon have shaved, because a writer of the -seventh century, complains that “the Clergy had grown -so corrupt as to be distinguished from the Laity less by -their actions than by their want of Beards.” The illustrious -Alfred was so careful of the Beards of his subjects, -that he inflicted the then heavy fine of twenty shillings on -any one maliciously injuring the Beard of another. The -Danes who invaded this country were Bearded. Fosbrooke -says, some of them wore Beards with six forks, and history -mentions Sueno the fork-beard.<a id='r18' /><a href='#f18' class='c012'><sup>[18]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>During this period, the French monarchy was growing. -Its first kings held the Beard as sacred, and ornamented -it with gold. Their subjects were proud of it as marking -them out to be free men in contradistinction to the -degenerate Roman population. Alaric touched the Beard of -Clovis as a solemn mode of confirming a treaty, and acknowledging -Clovis as his godfather. The Merovingian -Dynasty were Bearded. Then came Charlemagne who -swore by his Beard, as did Otho the Great and Barbarossa, -Emperors of Germany, after him. The following story -shows the faith of those early times in the sacredness of -this form of adjuration. A peasant, who had sworn a -false oath on the relics of two holy Martyrs, having taken -hold of his Beard, as further confirmation, heaven to -punish him, caused the whole to come off in his hand!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Charlemagne also enacted that any one who should -call another red beard or red-fox, should pay a heavy fine; -a law explained by a prejudice embodied in two German -proverbs.<a id='r19' /><a href='#f19' class='c012'><sup>[19]</sup></a></p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Of red beard no good heard</div> - <div class='line'>Red beard—a knave to be feared;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and carried to its climax in the anecdote of a Spanish -nobleman, who, having accused a man of some crime, -and the latter being proved innocent, exclaimed, “if he -did not do it he was plotting it, for the rascal has a -red beard!” Those who need consolation under this -calumny, traceable probably to an old notion, derived from -his name, that Judas Iscariot had a red beard, I am fortunately -able to refer to a sermon<a id='r20' /><a href='#f20' class='c012'><sup>[20]</sup></a> on that Arch-Traitor, full -of wit, humor, pathos, and imagination, by the celebrated -Abraham St. Clara, where red beards are nobly vindicated, -and the following noted instances cited:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>Several illustrious Romans,</div> - <div class='line in2'>The Emperor Barbarossa;</div> - <div class='line in2'>Hanquinus Rufus, King of the Goths;</div> - <div class='line in2'>Bishops Gaudentius and Gandulfius;</div> - <div class='line'>The Martyrs Dominicus, Maurinus, and Savinianus.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>During the distractions to which Charlemagne’s empire -was subject after his decease, the Northmen appeared, and -a band, under Rollo, having been converted and settled in -what is now Normandy, became known in English History -as the Normans; with whom an increasing intimacy -having sprung up in the reign of Edward the Confessor, -(whose head was shewn from the Bayeux tapestry,) a -Norman party was gradually formed at court and Norman -customs, one of which was shaving, partially adopted. -Harold, as representative of the real old English party, wore -his Beard as shown by a cotemporary MSS. illuminator; -but William the Conqueror, and most of his followers, are -figured only with a moustache and their back hair close -cropped or shaven. It was this <i>barbarous</i> fashion that -induced Harold’s spies to report to their master that the -invaders were an army of Priests.</p> - -<p class='c009'>William is said to have attempted to compel the sturdy -Saxons to shave, but many of them left the kingdom -rather than part with their Beards. In this, as in other -matters, Anglo-Saxon firmness ultimately conquered the -conquerors, and the Norman sovereigns gave in to the -national custom. As early as Henry I, that is <i>only 44 -years from William’s landing</i>, we learn that Bishop Serlo -met that monarch on his arrival in Normandy, and made -a long harangue on the enormities of the times, especially -long hair and bushy Beards, which he said they would not -clip, lest the stumps should wound the ladies’ faces. Henry, -with repentant obedience, submitted his hairy honors to -the Bishop, who with pious zeal, taking a pair of shears -from his trunk, trimmed king and nobles with his own -hand. This conduct of the Bishop is curiously illustrated -by a cotemporary decree of the Senate of Venice, of the -year 1102, commanding all long Beards to be cut off in -consequence of a Bull of Pope Paschal II, denouncing -the vanity of long hair, founded on a misinterpretation of -1st Corinthians, xii, 14,<a id='r21' /><a href='#f21' class='c012'><sup>[21]</sup></a> which applies only to the hair of -the head. On this text a sermon might be written though -scarcely preached, which would “a tale unfold, would -harrow up the soul.”<a id='r22' /><a href='#f22' class='c012'><sup>[22]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The stout king Stephen wore his Beard, and a Saxon -chronicler complains that in the civil wars of his time, in -order to extort the wealth of peaceable people, they were -“hung up by their Beards;” a proof the latter were long -and strong. Stephen’s cotemporary, Frederick the 1st of -Germany, to prevent quarrelling, laid a very heavy fine on -any one who pulled another’s Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Henry II, is said to have had a vision in which all -classes of his subjects reproached him in his sleep for his -tyranny and oppression. A cotemporary MSS. illuminator, -having fortunately designed several cartoons, really -much more expressive than some in the New Houses of -Parliament, from which we learn that the faces of all classes -of the people and of the Clergy then appeared as nature -made them, I selected one, representing the leaders -of the distressed agriculturalists of that remote period, -because while it illustrated my subject, it seemed to -possess great interest for that patient and much enduring -class. One could almost imagine the stout fellow with the -one-sided Saxon spade, to be urging on the heroes with -the pitchfork and scythe, nearly in the words of Marmion,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Charge, Sibthorp,<a id='r23' /><a href='#f23' class='c012'><sup>[23]</sup></a> charge! On, Stanley, on!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Henry’s Queen Eleanor had been previously the wife of -Louis VII, of France, who having been persuaded by his -Priests to shave off his Beard, so disgusted Eleanor that -she obtained a divorce.<a id='r24' /><a href='#f24' class='c012'><sup>[24]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Richard the Lion-hearted was Bearded like a lion, and -though he was so absorbed in the Crusades that he did -not redress, yet he acknowledged the justice of the complaints -of the celebrated Longbeard, “Earl of London -and King of the Poor,” who did honor to his Beard by -resisting oppression, and perished, after an heroic struggle, -the victim of cowardice and treachery. The monuments -of Roger, Bishop of Sarum, and Andrew, Abbot of Peterborough, -shew that Bishops wore the Beard, and Abbots -and Monks shaved in this reign.</p> - -<p class='c009'>John had what was called “a Judas’ Beard,” of which -his actions were every way worthy. Fortunately, the bold -Barons outbearded him, and Magna Charta was the result. -His son, Henry III, had a moderate Beard, and the longest -reign till George III. Edward I, shewed the Scots what -a long Beard could do with long shanks, and a long head -to back it.<a id='r25' /><a href='#f25' class='c012'><sup>[25]</sup></a> This king has been called the English Justinian, -both he and the Roman Emperor being noted for -improving the laws, and cherishing their Beards. Edward -the 2nd’s Beard, like his character, was more ornamental -than strong, and his reign is chiefly memorable for the -composition of that favorite old song quoted by Shakspeare, -“’Tis merry in hall, when Beards wag all!”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Edward the 3rd’s bold Beard spread terror in Scotland and -France, and that of his son, the Black Prince—young as he -died—was an apt type of his “prowess in the tented field.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Richard the 2nd, with all his faults, was neither -deficient in Beard nor in courage—the latter shewn in his -meeting with Wat Tyler, and his defence against his -assassins. Henry IV, the crafty Bolingbroke, had a chin -cover, in whose every curl lurked an intrigue, of which -his son, Henry V, who was made of other metal, was so -ashamed, we presume, that he wore in penitence a shaven -chin throughout his ten years’ reign, as may be seen by -his monument in Westminster Abbey, the remains of -which still exist.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Shaving continued partially in fashion in Henry the -6th’s reign, who himself in later life was Bearded like a -Philosopher, accustomed to moralize over the ups and -downs of life, of which he had no common share. Edward -the 4th shaved out of foppery; as did that smooth-faced -rascal, Richard III, who “could smile and smile and be a -villain.” Henry the 7th shaved himself and fleeced his -people.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As may be seen in MSS. illuminations, and as we read -in Chaucer and elsewhere, the majority of the people -stuck to their Beards, uninfluenced by the fluctuations of -court fashions. The poet, who was born in Edward the -3rd’s time, and died in Henry the 4th’s, speaks of “the -merchant’s forked Beard;” “the Franklin’s white as a -daisy;” “the shipman’s shaken by many a tempest;” “the -miller’s red as a fox, and broad as though it were a spade;” -the Reeve’s close trimmed; the Sompnour’s piled; and -ends by a contemptuous allusion to the Pardonere with his -small voice:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“No Beard had he, nor never none should have,</div> - <div class='line'>As smooth it was as it were newe shave, &c.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Henry VIII, as you may still see on many sign boards, -for which his bluff, bloated face is so well adapted, had his -Beard close clipped. Once he swore to Francis the 1st -that he would never cut it till he had visited the latter, -who swore the same; and when long Beards had become -the fashion at the French Court, Sir Thomas Bulleyn was -obliged to excuse Henry’s bad faith, by alleging that the -Queen of England felt an insuperable antipathy to a bushy -chin, which, from the known considerate conduct of Henry -to his wives, must have been a very plausible plea! Sir T. -Moore shaved previous to his imprisonment. His Beard -being then allowed to grow, he conceived such an affection -for it, that before he laid his head on the block he carefully -put it on one side, remarking “that it at least was guiltless -of treason, and ought not to be punished.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Although Francis I, and his Court, cherished their -Beards, the Chancellor Duprat advised the imposition of -a tax on the Beards of the clergy, and promised the king -a handsome revenue. The bishops and wealthier clergy -paid the tax and saved their Beards; but the poorer -ministers were not so fortunate. In the succeeding reign, -the clergy determined on revenge; so when Duprat (son -of the Chancellor) was returning in triumph from the -council of Trent, to take possession of the bishopric of -Claremont, the dean and canons closed the brass gates of -the chancel, through which they were seen armed with -shears and razor, soap and basin, and pointing to the -statutes, “de radendis barbis.” Notwithstanding his remonstrances, -they refused to induct him unless he sacrificed -his Beard, which was the handsomest of his time. -He is said to have retired to his castle, and died of -vexation.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the same reign, John de Morillers was also objected -to by the Chapter of Orleans; but the cunning fellow -produced a letter from the king stating, that the statutes -must be dispensed with in his case, as his majesty intended -to employ him in countries where he could not appear -without a Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the court of the rival of Francis, Charles the 5th, -who had himself a right royal covering to his chin, -lived John Mayo, his painter, a very tall man, but -with a Beard so long, that he could stand upon it; and in -which he took much pride, suspending it by ribbons to -his button-hole. Sometimes this mass of hair, by command -of the Emperor, was unfastened at table, and doors -and windows being thrown open, the imperial mind took -intense delight in seeing it blown into the faces of his -grimacing courtiers. Another noted German Beard was -that of a merchant of Braunau in Bavaria, which was so -long, that it would have draggled on the ground, had it -not been incased by its proud owner in a beautiful velvet -bag.<a id='r26' /><a href='#f26' class='c012'><sup>[26]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The promising Edward the 6th died before his Beard -developed; his sister Mary’s husband had one of the true -Spanish cut.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the time of “good Queen Bess,” when</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The grave Lord Chancellor<a id='r27' /><a href='#f27' class='c012'><sup>[27]</sup></a> led the dance,</div> - <div class='line'>And seal and mace tripped down before him,”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>she, who was no prude, and had a right royal sympathy -with every thing manly and becoming, surrounded herself -with men, who to the most punctilious courtesy, joined -the most adventurous spirit; and the Beard, as might have -been expected, grew and flourished mightily. Hence we -are not surprised at the wonderful efforts made by her -subjects in arms, and arts, and literature, so as to make -her reign an era to which we look back with patriotic -pride, and from which our best writers still draw as from -a well of deep perennial flow.<a id='r28' /><a href='#f28' class='c012'><sup>[28]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>A feeble reflection of some of the heads of this period -were exhibited on the walls of the lecture room, as the -sagacious Burleigh; the adventurous Raleigh; the rash but -brave Essex; Nottingham, the High Admiral who scattered -the Armada; Gresham the Merchant Prince, who found -his Beard no hindrance to business; and the Poet of -Poets, whether ancient or modern, Shakspeare.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As might be expected, the dramatic literature of the -time is full of allusions to that feature which men still -honored and admired. Lear can find no more pathetic -outburst of insulted majesty, in addressing his vile -daughter Goneril, than the words—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Art not ashamed to look upon this Beard?”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and when Regan insults the faithful Gloster, the latter -exclaims—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“By the kind Gods! ’Tis most ignobly done</div> - <div class='line'>To pluck me by the Beard!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In a more mocking humour, Shakspeare makes Cressida -say of Troilus’s chin, “alas poor chin! many a wart is -richer!” And Rosalind to Orlando, “I will pardon you -for not having a neglected Beard, for truly your having in -Beard is a younger brother’s revenue.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then as characteristics, we have the black, white, straw-colored, -orange-tawney, purple-in-grain, and perfect yellow. -The soldier Bearded like a pard; the justice with -Beard of formal cut; the sexton’s hungry Beard; and the -Beard of the general’s cut; and that fine passage, which -you will pardon my quoting, if only to supply an obvious -correction naturally lost sight of by <i>Beardless</i> commentators. -If instead of the puerile conceit, <i>stairs</i> of sand, we -read <i>layers</i> of sand, we not only restore metaphorical -beauty but literal truth; for what is more deceitful than a -layer of sand, and the Beard is “a layer of hair.”</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“There is no one so simple but assumes</div> - <div class='line'>Some mark of virtue on his outward parts;</div> - <div class='line'>How many cowards, whose hearts are all as false</div> - <div class='line'>As <i>layers</i> of sand, wear yet upon their chins</div> - <div class='line'>The Beards of Hercules and frowning Mars,</div> - <div class='line'>Who, inward searched, have livers white as milk:</div> - <div class='line'>And these assume but valour’s excrement</div> - <div class='line'>To make themselves redoubted.”<a id='r29' /><a href='#f29' class='c012'><sup>[29]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>The witty Robert Green, published in 1592, a curious -dialogue,<a id='r30' /><a href='#f30' class='c012'><sup>[30]</sup></a> from which we get a glimpse into a Barber’s -shop of Queen Elizabeth’s time. Cloth-breeches complains -of the Barber’s attention to Velvet-breeches in these -terms. “His head being once dressed, which requires in -combing and brushing some two hours; then being curiously -washed with no worse than a camphor ball, you -descend as low as his Beard, and ask whether he please to -be shaven or no? whether he will have his peake cut short -and sharp, amiable like an innamorato, or broad pendant -like a spade, or le terrible, like a warrior or soldado? -whether he will have his crates cut low like a juniper -bush, or his subercles taken away with a razor? If it be -his pleasure to have his appendices pruned, or his moustaches -fostered to turn about his ears like the branches of a -vine, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash, to make -him look like a half-faced bauby in brass. These quaint -terms Master Barber, you greet Master Velvet-breeches -withal, and at every word a snap with your scissors and a -cringe with your knee; whereas, when you come to poor -Cloth-breeches, you either cut his Beard at your own -pleasure, or else in disdain ask him if he will be trimmed -with Christ’s cut, round like the half of a Holland cheese, -mocking both Christ and us.”<a id='r31' /><a href='#f31' class='c012'><sup>[31]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>In the reign of James the 1st, Beards continued in -fashion, and I extract two out of many passages from -Beaumont and Fletcher’s plays; the first being, not excepting -even that of Butler’s Hudibras, the most humourous -description of a Beard in the language. A banished -prince in disguise, having been elected “King of the -Beggars” on account of his Beard; Higgen the Orator of -the Troop proceeds in this fashion:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“I then presaged thou shortly wouldst be king,</div> - <div class='line'>And now thou art so. But what need presage</div> - <div class='line'>To us, that might have read it in thy Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>As well as he that chose thee! By the Beard</div> - <div class='line'>Thou wert found out and marked for sovereignty.</div> - <div class='line'>O happy Beard! but happier Prince, whose Beard</div> - <div class='line'>Was so remarked as marked out our Prince</div> - <div class='line'>Not bating us a hair. Long may it grow,</div> - <div class='line'>And thick and fair, that who lives under it</div> - <div class='line'>May live as safe as under Beggar’s Bush,</div> - <div class='line'>Of which <i>it</i> is the thing—<i>that</i> but the type.</div> - <div class='line'>This is the Beard—the bush—or bushy Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>Under whose gold and silver reign ’twas said,</div> - <div class='line'>So many ages since, we all should smile!</div> - <div class='line'>No impositions, taxes, grievances,</div> - <div class='line'>Knots in a state, and whips unto a subject,</div> - <div class='line'>Lie lurking in this Beard, but all combed out.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In his Queen of Corinth we learn that—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The Roman T, your T-Beard is the fashion,</div> - <div class='line'>And twifold doth express the enamoured courtier</div> - <div class='line'>As full as your <i>fork carving</i> doth the traveller.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>The last line alluding to Coryate the traveller’s recent -introduction of the dinner-fork from Italy.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of this Roman T-Beard another writer humorously -says—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“The Roman T,</div> - <div class='line in2'>In its bravery,</div> - <div class='line'>Doth first itself disclose:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>But so high it turns,</div> - <div class='line in2'>That oft it burns</div> - <div class='line'>With the flame of a torrid nose.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and then adds—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“The soldier’s Beard</div> - <div class='line in2'>Doth match in this herd</div> - <div class='line'>In figure like a spade;</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>With which he will make</div> - <div class='line in2'>His enemies quake</div> - <div class='line'>To think their grave is made.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In 1610, died Henry IV, of France, whose Beard is -said “to have diffused over his countenance a majestic -sweetness and amiable openness;” his son Louis XIII,<a id='r33' /><a href='#f33' class='c012'><sup>[33]</sup></a> -ascending the throne while yet a minor, the courtiers and -others, to keep him in countenance, began to shave, -leaving merely the tuft called a mouche or royal. Sully, -however, the famous minister of Henry, stoutly refused to -adopt the effeminate custom. Being sent for to court, and -those about the king having mocked at his old-fashioned -Beard, the duke indignantly turned to Louis and said, -“Sire! when your father of glorious memory did me the -honor to hold a consultation on grave and important business, -the first thing he did was to order out of the room all -the buffoons and stage dancers of his court!” About this -time also, Marshal Bassompierre having been released from -a long imprisonment, declared the chief alteration he -found was, “that the men had lost their Beards and the -horses their tails.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Under our first Charles,<a id='r34' /><a href='#f34' class='c012'><sup>[34]</sup></a> the sides of the face were often -shaven, and the Beard reduced to the moustache, and a -long chin-tuft, as in the portrait of that monarch, retaining -however still some of its former gracefulness. As the -contest grew hotter between Cavalier and Roundhead, -doubtless some of the latter cropped chin as well as head; -though others are said to have been so careful of their -Beards, as to provide them with pasteboard night-caps to -prevent the hairs being rumpled.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In one instance it was worn long for a sign, as we see -by the following verse—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“This worthy knight was one that swore</div> - <div class='line in2'>He would not cut his Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>’Till this ungodly nation was</div> - <div class='line in2'>From kings and bishops cleared:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in1'>Which holy vow he firmly kept,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And most devoutly wore</div> - <div class='line in1'>A grizzly meteor on his face,</div> - <div class='line in2'>’Till they were both no more.”<a id='r35' /><a href='#f35' class='c012'><sup>[35]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Under Charles the 2nd, the Beard dwindled into the -mere moustache, and then vanished. And when we consider -the French apery of that un-English court, it is no -wonder the Beard appeared too bold and manly an ensign -to be tolerated. It went out first among the upper classes -in London, and by slow degrees the sturdy country squires -and yeomen also yielded their free honors to the slavish -effeminate fashion, which, by the force of example, descended -even to the working classes, on whom it imposed -new burdens and some bodily diseases from which their -hardy frames had been hitherto exempt. It is to be -hoped, that when any one for the future talks about the -Beard being a <i>foreign</i> fashion, he will be reminded that -it is a good old English natural fashion, and that the -present custom of shaving was borrowed from France, at -a time when we had no credit to borrow anything else, -seeing that king, courtiers, and patriots, were all the pensioned -dependents of the French monarch! The sooner -therefore we cease to shave, the sooner shall we wipe out -the remembrance of a disgraceful period of our history!</p> - -<p class='c009'>One amusing proof that the Beard continued to be worn -by the country people after its decline about the court, is -afforded by an anecdote of the notorious Judge Jeffries, -who, in his browbeating way, thus addressed a party before -him. “If your conscience be as large as your Beard, fellow! -it must be a swinging one.” To which the witness -replied, “If consciences be measured by Beards, I am -afraid your lordship has none at all.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>In 1700, Charles V ascended the throne of Spain, with -a smooth chin; and his example was gradually followed, -though the popular feeling has been condensed into the -proverb—“Since we have lost our Beards, we have lost -our souls;” and no one can question that loss of Beard -and empire in that country have singularly coincided.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two brief anecdotes will shew the sense of honor which -formerly resided in Spanish and Portuguese Beards.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cid Rai Diaz dying, a spiteful Jew stole into the room -to do what he durst not when Diaz was alive—pluck the -noble Spaniard’s Beard! As he stooped for the purpose, -the body started up and drew the sword lying in state by -its side. The Jew fled horror-struck; the corpse smiled -grimly, and resumed its repose; and the Jew turned -Christian.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the brave John de Castro had taken the Indian -fortress of Dieu, being in want of supplies, he pledged -one of his moustaches for a thousand pistoles, saying “all -the gold in the world cannot equal the value of this natural -ornament of my valour.” The inhabitants of Goa, -especially the ladies, were so struck with this magnaminous -sacrifice, that they raised the money and redeemed the -pledge.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The last European nation to lay aside the Beard was -the Russian, in whose ancient code it was enacted that -whoever plucks hair from another’s Beard shall be fined -four times as much as for cutting off a finger. Peter the -Great, (who always remained a semi-savage), like many -other half-informed reformers, sought to accomplish his -objects by arbitrary measures rather than by moral persuasion. -Having, when in the west, seen unbearded faces, -he jumped to the conclusion that absence of Beard was a -necessary part of civilization; forgetting that a shaven -savage is a savage still. He therefore ordered all his -subjects to shave, imposing a tax of one hundred roubles -on all nobles, gentlemen, tradesmen, and artizans, and a -copeck on the lower classes. Great commotions were the -result; but Peter was obstinate and made a crusade with -scissors and razor, much resembling a Franco-African -Razzia, which you know means a clean shave of everything -with very dirty hands! Some, to avoid disgrace, -parted with their Beards voluntarily, but all preserved the -hairs to be buried in their coffins; the more superstitious -believing that unless they could present theirs to St. -Nicholas, he would refuse them admission to heaven as -Beardless Christians.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One of the most difficult tasks was to deal with the -army; in this, Peter proceeded with characteristic cunning. -Through the agency of the priests, the soldiers were told -that they were going to fight the Turks, who wore Beards, -and that their patron saint St. Nicholas would not be able -to protect his beloved Russians, unless they consented to -distinguish themselves by removing their Beards! You see -how stale are the Czar’s late tricks! Convinced by this -pious fraud, the credulous soldiers obeyed the imperial -mandate. The next war, however, was against the Swedes, -and the soldiers, who had suffered severely from shaving, -turned the tables upon the priests, and said, “the Swedes -have no Beards, we must therefore let ours grow again, -lest, as you say, the holy Nicholas should not know us!”</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is a note-worthy historical fact, which shews the -danger arising from discarding the natural for the artificial, -that as <i>Beards died out, false hair came in</i>. A mountain -of womanish curls rested on the head, and was made to -fall in effeminate ringlets over neck and shoulders, while -the whole face was kept as smooth, and smug, and characterless -as razor could make it. This renders it so disagreeable -a task to look through a series of Kneller’s portraits, -who, clever as he was, could not impart the freedom and -vigour of nature to this absurd fashion. A portrait of -Addison,<a id='r37' /><a href='#f37' class='c012'><sup>[37]</sup></a> was shewn as an illustration, because, as has -been seen, though he complied with the mode, he was -occasionally favored with visions of better times, past and -to come.<a id='r38' /><a href='#f38' class='c012'><sup>[38]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>To the reign of false curls, succeeded that still more -egregious outrage—that climax of coxcombry—powder, -pomatum, and pigtails! The former to give the snows of -age to the ruddy face of youth; the latter being, I suppose, -an attempt of some bright genius to outdo nature,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>By hanging a stiff black tail behind,</div> - <div class='line'>Instead of a flowing beard before,</div> - <div class='line'>As if, by this ensign, the world to remind,</div> - <div class='line'>How wise it had grown since old father Noah.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>This was the period when every breeze was a Zephyr, -every maid a Chlöe, every woman a Venus, and every fat -squinting child a Cupid! Later German critics even christen -the writers of this school, “the Pigtail Poets.”<a id='r39' /><a href='#f39' class='c012'><sup>[39]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The first French Revolution made an end of all this -trumpery, and though Alison and other professed historians -have not classed the event among the good things -flowing from that fearful flood of blood and blasphemy, -it was not one of the least, and society cannot rejoice too -much at being delivered from the example of systematic -frippery, frivolity, and tricked-out vice of the later French -Sovereigns, imitated as they were by most of the petty -puppet Princes of Germany—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Each lesser ape in his small way,</div> - <div class='line'>Playing his antics like the greater.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>About the rise of the first Napoleon to power, a more -simple, severe, and classic taste, was beginning to prevail, -and this dictated a return to the Beard. Under the -military despotism, however, of that Emperor, moustaches -were forbidden to civilians, and the Beard restrained to -that petty, hairy imitation of a reversed triangle—called -after its reviver, who never personally wore it—the <i>imperial</i>, -as if to denote to the people that they were to -have the smallest possible share in the <i>empire</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With every attempt at freedom on the Continent, the -Beard re-appears; it was one of the most effective standards -in the war of freedom, when Germany rose against -Napoleon. In 1830, it was partially revived in France, -and later still it has made many a perjured continental -monarch<a id='r40' /><a href='#f40' class='c012'><sup>[40]</sup></a> “quake and tremble in his capital,” and reminded -him that in spite of neglected promises and false -oaths, the reign of injustice “hangs but on a hair,” of -which the police will not always be able to check the free -growth.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have now merely to notice very briefly, four modern -objections to the Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I. “<i>That it is less cleanly than shaving.</i>” To this, the -answer is, that depends upon the wearer; and it will take -less time to keep clean, than to shave, especially where, as -in England, every one washes the face more than once a -day. Besides, if this were an argument, we had better -shave the head and eyebrows as well.</p> - -<p class='c009'>II. “<i>That it would take as much time to keep the -Beard in order, as to shave.</i>” Supposing even it did, still -there is a most important difference both in the two operations -and in their results. For the process of combing -and brushing the Beard, instead of being tedious, uncertain, -and often painful, like shaving,<a id='r41' /><a href='#f41' class='c012'><sup>[41]</sup></a> confers a positively -delightful sensation, similar to that which one may imagine -a cat to experience,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When smoothing gently down its fur,</div> - <div class='line'>It answers with a purr, purr, purr;</div> - <div class='line'>And in its drooping half-shut eye,</div> - <div class='line'>A dreamy pleasure we espy.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>And while the result of shaving is a mere negation, depriving -us of a natural protection, and exposing us to disease, -the other process, consume what time we will, is natural -and instinctive, and attended with the satisfaction of adding -the grace of neatness to nature’s stamp of man’s nobility.</p> - -<p class='c009'>III. “<i>That the ladies dont like it!</i>” This Professor -Burdach and Dr. Elliotson, pronounce a foul libel.<a id='r42' /><a href='#f42' class='c012'><sup>[42]</sup></a> -Ladies by their very nature like every thing manly; and -though from custom the Beard may at first sight have a -strange look, they will soon be reconciled to it, and think, -with Beatrice, that a man without, “<i>is only fit to be their -waiting gentlewoman</i>.”<a id='r43' /><a href='#f43' class='c012'><sup>[43]</sup></a> I have already mentioned one -instance of a queen despising her husband, because he -was priest-ridden enough to shave; and here I present you -with a second in this veritable portrait (shewing it) of a -painter in the reign of George I, of the name of Liotard, -who having returned from his travels in the East, with this -fine flow of curling comeliness, was irresistible. He followed -his fate, and married, but then, alas, unhappy wretch! -took one day the whim to shave off his Eastern glory. -Directly his wife saw him, the charm of that ideal which -every true woman forms of her lover, was broken; for -instead of a dignified manly countenance, her eyes fell -upon a small pinched face, with nose celestial and mouth -most animally terrestial,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>And such a little perking chin,</div> - <div class='line'>To kiss it seemed almost a sin!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>IV. “<i>That a Beard may be very comfortable in Winter -but too hot in Summer!</i>” The better races of the sons -of torrid Africa wear Beards, as did the ancient Numidians, -and Tyro-African Carthaginians before them. The Arab -in the arid parching desert cherishes his! Are we afraid of -being warmer than these in an English Summer? Besides, -as we have already shewn, the Beard is a non-conductor of -heat as well as cold.<a id='r44' /><a href='#f44' class='c012'><sup>[44]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Having now, ladies and gentlemen, offered proofs that -the Beard is a natural feature of the male face, and designed -by Providence for distinction, protection, and ornament, -and shewn you historically, that while there was -never any sufficient reason alleged for leaving it off, unless -a heaven condemned superstition, or the capricious dictates -of fops and profligates, afford to any sound mind reasonable -motives of action, need I ask you not to oppose the efforts -of those who, reverencing the Creator’s laws as above the -dictates of man, conceive themselves justified in returning -to the more natural course. On our part we will, notwithstanding -all that we have said, freely allow any one to -continue the practice of shaving, who will be content with -the same plea as a certain Duke de Brissac, who was often -overheard uttering the following soliloquy while adjusting -his razor to the proper angle. “Timoleon de Cosse, God -hath made thee a Gentleman, and the King hath made -thee a Duke; it is right and fit, however, that thou -shouldst have something to do, therefore thou shalt shave -thyself!”</p> -<hr class='c019' /> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>HADDOCK, (LATE PAWSEY,) PRINTER, IPSWICH.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i041.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>Footnotes.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c020' /> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f1'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. </span>Vide Hassell’s Microscopic Anatomy. Haller says “Withof -calculated that the hair of the Beard grows at the rate of 1½ line -in the week, which is 6½ inches in the year, and by the time a man -reaches eighty, 27 feet will have fallen under the edge of the razor.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f2'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. </span>The whiskers of Confucius are said to be preserved as relics -in China.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f3'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. </span>I can from personal experience state, that being subject -when younger to swelling of the upper lip from cold, previous to -entering Switzerland I allowed my moustache to grow. During -six weeks excursion on foot, exposed to all weathers and stopping -for none, being at one moment in warm valleys and a few hours -afterwards at the top of ice-clad mountains, I never felt the least -uncomfortableness about the mouth. When on returning home, -however, I was foolish enough to shave, I paid dearly for the -operation.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f4'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. </span>Elmes says, “The Beard in Art has an ideal character as an -attribute, and distinguished by its undulating curl the Beard of -Jupiter Olympius from that of Jupiter Serapis (who has a longer -and straighter Beard) the lank Beard of Neptune and the river -Gods, from the short and frizzly Beards of Hercules, Ajax, Diomede, -Ulysses, &c.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f5'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. </span>“It is customary to shave the Ottoman Princes as a mark of -subjection to the reigning Sultan; and those who serve in the Seraglio -have their Beards shaven as a sign of servitude, and do not -suffer it to grow till the Sultan has set them at liberty.”—<i>Burder’s -Oriental Customs.</i> Volney says, “At length Ibrahim Bey suffered -Ali his page to let his Beard grow, <i>i.e.</i>, gave him his freedom, for -among the Turks to want the Beard is thought only fit for slaves -and women.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f6'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. </span>Dr. Wolff says, Mahomed Effendi told him “that the Mahomedans -believed that though Noah lived 1000 years, no hair of his -blessed Beard fell off, or became white; while that of the Devil consists -only of one long hair;” and the same Mahomed, wishing to -compliment two midshipmen, “hoped they would some day have -fine long Beards like himself.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f7'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. </span>Niebuhr says, “I once saw, in a caravan, an Arab highly -offended at a man who had accidentally bespattered his Beard. It -was with difficulty he could be appeased, even though the offender -humbly asked his pardon, and kissed his Beard in token of submission.” -Though I avoided breaking the argument by its insertion -under the account of the Jews, it may be interesting to state, that -Moses, in Numbers, orders a man to be considered unclean for -seven days, whose Beard has been defiled in this way: and that -David could scarcely have devised a more efficient means to convince -Achish of his madness, than the expedient he adopted of -allowing his saliva to descend upon his Beard.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f8'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. </span>It used to be considered one of the almost impossible feats of -Chivalry to pluck a hair from the Sultan’s Beard.—(May the Russians -find it quite so!) The romance of Oberon is founded on this -notion, and Shakspeare makes Benedict say in a spirit of bravado, -“I’ll fetch you a hair off the great Cham’s Beard.” (<i>i.e.</i> Khan of -Tartary’s Beard.)</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f9'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. </span>The Rev. John More, of Norwich, a worthy clergyman in -Elizabeth’s reign, who is said to have had the longest and largest -Beard of any Englishman of his time, seems to have chosen this -Spartan for his model; since when asked to give a reason for it he -replied, “that no act of his life might be unworthy of the gravity -of his appearance.” And Baudinus, quoted by Pagenstecher, says, -Frederick Taubman, the celebrated German wit, humourist, and -theologian, being asked the same question answered, “in order that -whenever I behold these hairs, I may remember that I am no vile -coward or old woman, but a man, called Frederick Taubman.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f10'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. </span>That the Beard, however, sometimes afforded a handle to an -enemy in ancient times, when swords, especially the Greek, were -very short, is admitted. And I possess an engraving from one of -Raphael’s Vatican Cartoons, where one soldier is represented in the -act of cutting down another whom he has seized by the Beard. -He must be a poor master of his weapon, however, who in modern -times would allow a man to grasp his Beard without being hewn -down or run through in the process.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f11'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. </span>Suetonius says, “he was excessively nice about his body, -that he was not only sheered and shaved, but plucked.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f12'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. </span>Besides shaving, the Romans as they progressed in luxurious -effeminacy, used depilatories, tweezers and all sorts of contrivances -to make themselves as little like men and as much like women as -possible; and their satirists abound with passages impossible to -quote with decency on the causes and consequences of this abrogation -of the distinctive peculiarities of the two sexes.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f13'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. </span>Pagenstecher says, “one of the Emperors of Rome refused to -admit to an audience certain Ambassadors of the Veneti, because -they had no Beards.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f14'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. </span>The branch of the Roman family to which Nero belonged -was called Enobarbus, copper-coloured or red Beard; and the -legend of the family was, that the Dioscuri announced to one of -their ancestors a victory, and to confirm the truth of what was said, -stroked his black hair and Beard, and turned them red. Cn. -Domitius, who was Censor with L. Crassus the orator, “took” says -Pagenstecher, “too much pride in his,” and Crassus fired away the -following epigram upon it. “Quid mirum si barbam habet aeneam -Domitius cum et os ferreum et cor habet plumbeum.” (Where’s -the wonder Domitius has a brazen Beard, when he has bones of -iron and a heart of lead.) Shakspeare (the <i>unlearned</i>!) who never -loses a characteristic, makes his Enobarbus, (who was great grandfather -of Nero, wore a Beard, as seen on his medals, and was a fine -bold warrior,) speak thus of Antony, under the fascination of -Cleopatra:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Lep.</span> “Good Enobarbus, ’Tis a worthy deed,</div> - <div class='line in5'>And shall become you well, to entreat your Captain</div> - <div class='line in5'>To soft and gentle speech.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Enob.</span> “I shall entreat him</div> - <div class='line in6'>To answer like himself: if Cæsar move him,</div> - <div class='line in6'>Let Antony look over Cæsar’s head,</div> - <div class='line in6'>And speak as loud as Mars. <i>By Jupiter,</i></div> - <div class='line in6'><i>Were I the wearer of Antonius’ Beard,</i></div> - <div class='line in6'><i>I would not shave’t to-day.</i>”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>This passage evidently associates the Beard with manly determination, -and shaving with the want of it, for subsequently Enobarbus -speaks of Antony’s effeminacy in these words:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in6'>“Our courteous Antony,</div> - <div class='line'>Whom ne’er the word of No woman heard speak,</div> - <div class='line'><i>Being barber’d ten times o’er</i>, goes to the feast,</div> - <div class='line'>And for his ordinary pays his heart</div> - <div class='line'>For what his eyes eat only.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f15'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. </span>Arcite in Chaucer’s Knight’s Tale thus devotes his Beard to -Mars:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“And eke to this avow I wol me bind,</div> - <div class='line in1'>My Berd, my here that hangeth low adoun,</div> - <div class='line in1'>That never yet felt non offensioun</div> - <div class='line in1'>Of rasour, ne of shere, I wol thee yeve.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f16'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. </span>The Goths and Dacians, as seen on the Roman monuments, -were Bearded; and the ancient Hungarians, Raumer states, wore -long Beards adorned with gold and jewels. The Catti also were -accustomed not to trim the hair of the head or Beard till they had -proved their manliness by slaying an enemy in battle.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f17'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. </span>One of the Legends of King Arthur mentions a giant who -made “a great exhibition of domestic manufacture,” consisting of a -“cloak fringed with the Beards of kings.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f18'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. </span>Many princes have borne the title of Bearded—as the Greek -Emperor Constantine Pogonatus, Count Godfrey, the Emperor -Barbarossa, and Eberhard Duke of Wirtemberg in the reign of -Maximilian, whose wisdom might truly be said to have grown with -his Beard, and on whom the following verse was made:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Hic situs est cui <i>barba</i> dedit cognomina Princeps,</div> - <div class='line'>Princeps Teutonici gloria magna soli.”</div> - <div class='line'>(Here is a Prince whose Beard gave his surname,</div> - <div class='line'>A Prince the glory of the land Almayne.)</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f19'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. </span></p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rothbart nie gut wart</div> - <div class='line'>Rothbart Schelmen art.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f20'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. </span>Judas der Ertz. Schelm.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f21'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. </span>A writer in Dickens’ Household Words says Pope Anacletus, -(query 1st or 2nd) was the first who introduced the custom of shaving.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f22'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. </span>In this and in other places I am obliged to leave under a veil -of obscure allusion, arguments of thrilling force, not only from -ancient but from our own history: matters not to be met with in -ordinary histories; but too abundant in the pages of satirists and -moralists, who were hardy enough to lash the prevalent follies and -vices of the times in which they lived.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f23'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. </span>I trust my honest and uncompromising brother Beard will -pardon the liberty I have taken with his name. No one can be a -more sincere admirer than myself of the manly way in which he -maintains his opinions on all occasions, and the humorous kindness -of disposition which renders him beloved in private and in public. -I should always esteem him as a public man, were it only for his -long and single-handed fight against that economical iniquity—that -suicidal tax on prudence and foresight, and bounty on improvidence—the -Fire Insurance Duty!</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f24'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. </span>“She had,” says D’Israeli, “for her marriage dower the rich -province of Poitou and Guyenne; and this was the origin of those -wars which for 300 years ravaged France, and cost the French three -million of men. All which probably had never occurred had Louis -VII not been so rash as to crop his head and shave his Beard, by -which he became so disgustful in the eyes of our Queen Eleanor.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f25'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. </span>No true Scotchman would pardon me if I omitted to note -that the brave Wallace had “a most brave Beard.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f26'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. </span>Southey in “The Doctor” mentions the Beard of Dominico -d’Ancona, as the crown or King of Beards,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>A Beard the most singular</div> - <div class='line'>Man ever described in verse or prose;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and of which Berni says, “that the Barber ought to have felt less -reluctance in cutting the said Dominico’s throat, than in cutting -off so incomparable a Beard.” But Southey is outdone by a story -told by Dr. Ehle in his work on the hair, where mention is made -of two seven-foot giants with Beards down to their toes, at the -court of one of the German sovereigns. They both fell in love -with the same woman, and their master decided that whichever -should succeed in putting his rival into a sack, should have the -maiden. One of them sacked the other after a long duel before -the whole court, and married the girl. That the pair lived happily -afterwards, as the Novelists say, is proved by their having as many -signs of affection as there are in the Zodiac; and it is worthy of -remark, both physiologically and astrologically, that the whole -twelve were born under one sign, Gemini.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f27'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. </span>It surely will not be denied by any Judge of taste, that the -Chancellor and other legal dignitaries would look more dignified -in their own hair and with Beards of “reverend grey,” than in the -present absurd, fantastic, unnatural and unbecoming frosted ivy -bushes, with a black crow’s nest in the centre, in which Minerva -might more readily mistake them for stray specimens of her favorite -bird, the owl, than for learned, intelligent, and logical “sages of -the law.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f28'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. </span>Although an attempt was made in this reign to restrain the -growth of legal Beards by some pragmatical heads of Lincoln’s Inn, -who passed a resolution “that no fellow of that house should wear -a Beard of above a fortnight’s growth;” and although transgression -was punished with fine, loss of commons, and final expulsion, such -was the vigorous resistance to this act of tyranny, that in the following -year all previous orders respecting Beards were repealed. <i>Percy -Anecdotes.</i></p> - -<p class='c022'>About the same time also in Germany the moustache was partially -substituted for the Beard, as appears by Berckemej’s Europ. -Antiq. p. 294, who under the year 1564 says, the Archbishop Sigismund -introduced in Magdeburgh the custom of shaving off the full -Beard and wearing instead a moustache. The year in which this -Beard-reformation (de-formation?) happened, was contained in this -pentameter—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Longa sIgIsMVnDo barba IVbente perIt.”</div> - <div class='line'>“Sigismund commanding, the long Beard perished in</div> - <div class='line in1'>MDLVV (= X) IIII. or 1564.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f29'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. </span>Pagenstecher asks “which was the city where Beard and foot made the magistrate?” -and then proceeds gravely to relate that the inhabitants of Hardenberg had -formerly the singular custom of electing their mayors or burgomasters by assembling -at a round table, where while some of the town council were employed in inspecting -their Beards, others were engaged in estimating their feet—the biggest -Beard and largest foot being “called to the scarlet.” And rightly too! for the Beard -denoted authority and wisdom, and the large foot an understanding likely to take -grave steps when needed. As containing a valuable hint to modern corporations to -look well to the essential points of a mayor—too often overlooked—I trust, this note -upon note will be pardoned.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f30'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. </span>“Quip for an Upstart Courtier.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f31'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. </span>A Ben Jonson, among other allusions to the Beard, has the following:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>I am heartily grieved a Beard of your grave length</div> - <div class='line'>Should be so over-reach’d. (“The Fox.”)</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>In his Alchemist <i>Subtle</i> telling <i>Drugger’s</i> fortune says—</p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in6'>——“This summer</div> - <div class='line'>He will be of the clothing of his company,</div> - <div class='line'>And next spring called to the scarlet.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Face.</span> <i>What and so little Beard!</i><a id='r32' /><a href='#f32' class='c012'><sup>[32]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f32'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. </span>Lilly in one of his Dramas makes a Barber say to his customer, -“How, sir, will you be trimmed? Will you have a Beard -like a spade or a bodkin? A penthouse on your upper lip or an -ally on your chin? Your moustaches sharp at the ends like shoemaker’s -awls, or hanging down to your mouth like goat’s flakes?”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f33'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. </span>“In this reign, whiskers however attained to a high degree of -favour at the expense of the expiring Beard, and continued so -under Louis XIV, who, with all the great men of his court, took a -great pride in wearing them. In those days of gallantry, it was no -uncommon thing for a lover to have his whiskers turned up, combed -and pomatumed by his mistress; and a man of fashion was always -provided with every necessary article for this purpose, especially -whisker wax.” <i>Percy Anecdotes.</i></p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f34'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. </span>D’Israeli quotes an author of this reign, who in his “Elements -of Education” says, “I have a favourable opinion of that young -gentleman who is <i>curious in fine moustachios</i>. The time he employs -in adjusting, dressing and curling them, is no lost time; <i>for the -more he contemplates his moustachios, the more his mind will cherish -and be animated by masculine and courageous notions</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also states, that the grandfather of Mrs. Thomas, the -“Corinna of Dryden,” was very nice in the mode of that age, his -valet being some hours every morning in <i>starching his Beard and -curling his whiskers</i>, during which time he was always read to.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f35'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. </span>Taylor, the Water Poet, who lived from the end of Elizabeth -to nearly the end of the Commonwealth, thus humorously describes -the various fashions of this appendage.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Now a few lines to paper I will put,</div> - <div class='line'>Of men’s Beards strange and variable cut,</div> - <div class='line'>In which there’s some that take as vain a pride,</div> - <div class='line'>As almost in all other things beside:</div> - <div class='line'>Some are reaped most substantial like a brush,</div> - <div class='line'>Which makes a natural wit known by the bush;</div> - <div class='line'>And in my time of some men I have heard,</div> - <div class='line'>Whose wisdom hath been only wealth and Beard:</div> - <div class='line'>Many of these the proverb well doth fit,</div> - <div class='line'>Which says <i>bush</i> natural more hair than wit:</div> - <div class='line'>Some seem as they were starched stiff and fine,</div> - <div class='line'>Like to the bristles of some angry swine;</div> - <div class='line'>And some, to set their loves’ desire on edge,</div> - <div class='line'>Are cut and prun’d like to a quickset hedge.</div> - <div class='line'>Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,</div> - <div class='line'>Some round, some mow’d like stubble, some stark bare,</div> - <div class='line'>Some sharp, stiletto-fashion,<a id='r36' /><a href='#f36' class='c012'><sup>[36]</sup></a> dagger-like,</div> - <div class='line'>That may, with whispering, a man’s eyes outpike.</div> - <div class='line'>Some with the hammer cut or Roman T,</div> - <div class='line'>Their Beards extravagant reform’d must be;</div> - <div class='line'>Some with the quadrate, some triangle-fashion,</div> - <div class='line'>Some circular, some oval in translation;</div> - <div class='line'>Some perpendicular in longitude,</div> - <div class='line'>Some like a thicket for their crassitude.</div> - <div class='line'>The heighths, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,</div> - <div class='line'>And rules geometrical in Beards are found.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f36'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. </span></p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The stiletto Beard</div> - <div class='line in1'>It makes me afeard</div> - <div class='line in1'>It is so sharp beneath:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in1'>For he that doth wear</div> - <div class='line in1'>A dagger in his face,</div> - <div class='line in1'>What must he wear in his sheath.”</div> - <div class='c023'><i>Old Author.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Who make sharp Beards and little breeches Deities.”</div> - <div class='c023'><i>Beaumont and Fletcher.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f37'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. </span>I cannot refrain from alluding in a note to a curious fact. -On the day this Lecture was given, a little boy was brought to look -at the portraits just after they were hung. I said to him, “Edward, -which face do you like best?” He instantly touched the portrait of -Addison, and said, “that’s the best woman,” and “that’s the best -man!” pointing to the well-bearded face of Leonardo da Vinci.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f38'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. </span>That Southey had the same compunctious visitings as Addison, -appears clearly enough, for while in his Doctor he compares -“shaving at home” with “slavery abroad;” states that “a good -razor is more difficult to meet with, than a good wife;” denounces -the practice “as preposterous and irrational,” as “troublesome, inconvenient,” -and attended with “discomfort, especially in frosty -weather and March winds;” places it on an equality with the curse -pronounced on Eve; and concludes with the opinion that “if the -daily shavings of one year could be put into one shave, the operation -would be more than flesh and blood could bear;” he has -nothing to say in favour of shaving, but that it encourages -Barbers, compels the shaver to some moments of calm thought -and reflection, and enables him to draw lessons from the looking -glass that nobody with razor in hand ever thought of. These words -in another place give a key to his real opinion. “If I wore a -Beard,” he writes, “I would cherish it as the Cid Campeador did -his, for my pleasure. I would regale it on a Summer’s day with -rose-water, and without making it an idol, I should sometimes offer -incense to it with a pastille, or with lavender and sugar. My children, -when they were young enough for such blandishments, would -have delighted to comb and stroke and curl it, and my grandchildren -in their time would have succeeded to the same course of -mutual endearment.”</p> - -<p class='c022'>See also Leigh Hunt’s humourous paper on Lie-abeds in the -Indicator, where he calls “shaving a villainous and unnecessary -custom.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f39'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. </span>Seume, a German poet of a better school, in his travels says, -“To-day I threw my powder apparatus out of window, when will the -day come that I can send my shaving apparatus after it!”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f40'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. </span>One hardly knows which is the most detestable, the canting -hypocrisy of Prussian constitutional pretence,—the more open poltroonery -of Neapolitan despotism—or the paternal care to prevent -even the buddings of free thought as in Austria, where I can state -from my own knowledge that Schiller’s works were seized as contraband -on the Hungarian frontier, and a party in the Austrian service -who had attempted to defend the conduct of the government at a -Table d’Hôte was sent for by the head of the police, and when to -excuse himself he alleged he was speaking for the government, was -replied to—“Young man, the government want no defence—no discussion—and -your wisest course is to be silent!”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f41'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. </span>There is something in the operation of shaving which, besides -its painfulness, ought to make it repulsive to those who do not -shave themselves—such as having the face bedaubed with lather -and rubbed with a brush, which has done the same office for hundreds -of chins. It is amusing to hear a knot of free and independent -Englishmen roaring “Britons never will be slaves;” most of -whom will give their chins to be mown and their noses to be pulled -by any common Barber, and pay him too for the pulling. Even -when the party is a self-shaver, to say nothing of the waste of time, -what a number of petty annoyances and exercises of temper -does it involve! Notwithstanding the boasts of cold water shavers, -depend upon it in rigorous weather most people prefer hot to cold -water, which renders them slaves to their servants; next, razors, -as we know from puff advertisements and our own experience, -are the most uncertain of articles; then there is the state of -the nerves, that even the strongest cannot always control, causing -the unsteady hand to gash and hack the chin, or cover it with -blood from the beheading of those pimply eruptions of which the -razor has been ofttimes the originator.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f42'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. </span>Old Burton in his Anatomy of Melancholy adds his quaint -testimony. “No sooner doth a young man see his sweetheart coming, -than he smugs up himself, pulls up his cloak, ties his garter -points, sets his band and cuffs, sticks his hair, <i>twires his Beard</i>,” &c.</p> - -<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also says, “when the fair sex were accustomed to behold -their lovers with Beards, the sight of a shaved chin excited feelings -of horror and aversion; as much indeed as in this less heroic age -would a gallant whose luxuriant Beard should ‘Stream like a -meteor to the troubled air.’”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f43'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. </span>The whole dialogue from whence this phrase is taken, is suggestive -of the contempt with which the ladies of Elizabeth and -James the 1st’s time regarded a hairless chin. And there are -numerous passages in our old Dramatists which might be quoted to -the same effect, but that some of the allusions do not square with -modern notions of delicacy.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f44'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. </span>It is scarcely conceivable what strange remarks have been -made to me on the subject of the Beard. One party very gravely -enquired whether I really thought that Adam had a Beard? Another -was remonstrating with me on the first manifestations of my -moustache; against whom I wickedly urged the argumentum ad -feminam—you don’t object to it in the military? when the daughter -naively chimed in, “why you know, Sir, <i>it is natural to them</i>!” -Two or three acute persons, one of them a lawyer, have objected, -“but you have your hair cut!” To which I have replied, “yes! -but I don’t shave it off; and I trim my Beard instead of removing -it. You also pare your nails; but you don’t think of plucking -them out, do you?”</p> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<p class='c009'> </p> -<div class='tnbox'> - - <ul class='ul_1 c005'> - <li>Transcriber’s Notes: - <ul class='ul_2'> - <li>The footnotes were gathered into one section at the end of the text. - </li> - <li>Some of the text on the title page was illegible, and was omitted. - </li> - <li>Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. - </li> - <li>Typographical errors were silently corrected. - </li> - <li>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant - form was found in this book. - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - -</div> -<p class='c009'> </p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEARDS *** - -***** This file should be named 60009-h.htm or 60009-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/0/0/60009/ - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - - -</pre> - - </body> - <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57c on 2019-07-29 16:41:55 GMT --> -</html> diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 32c6a7b..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/frontis.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/frontis.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6447ce6..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/frontis.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i001.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i001.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fa542fd..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i001.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i002.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i002.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 109cf9a..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i002.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i003.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i003.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6c3514f..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i003.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i012.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i012.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3d63559..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i012.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i013.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i013.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f519749..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i013.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i021.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i021.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4b20f8d..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i021.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i022.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i022.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fc474d3..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i022.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i041.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i041.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 148379e..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i041.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/i042.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/i042.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 259a8d8..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/i042.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/60009-h/images/title.jpg b/old/60009-h/images/title.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7eafc39..0000000 --- a/old/60009-h/images/title.jpg +++ /dev/null |
