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margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c019 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 40%; width: 20%; margin-right: 40%; } - .c020 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; width: 10%; margin-left: 0; - margin-top: 2em; text-align: left; } - .c021 { font-size: 85%; } - .c022 { margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c023 { text-align: right; } - body {width:80%; margin:auto; } - .tnbox {background-color:#E3E4FA;border:1px solid silver;padding: 0.5em; - margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .blackletter {font-family: "Lucida Blackletter", serif; } - h1 {font-family: "Old English Text MT" } - .gs4 {letter-spacing: 4px } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. Gowing - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: The Philosophy of Beards - A Lecture: Physiological, Artistic & Historical - -Author: Thomas S. Gowing - -Release Date: July 29, 2019 [EBook #60009] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEARDS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>PRICE ONE SHILLING.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c002' /> -<div> - <h1 class='c003'><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></h1> -</div> -<hr class='c004' /> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='xlarge'>Physiological, Artistic & Historical.</span></div> - <div class='c000'>by</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>T. S. Gowing.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Ipswich.</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Published by <span class='large'>J. Haddock.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class="gs4">Londo</span>n:</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>T. T. Lamare, 2, Oxford Arms Passage.</div> - <div>Paternoster Row</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/frontis.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>The Ape and the Goat</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'><span class='xlarge'>Preface.</span></h2> -</div> - -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_65 c008'>THE following Lecture, the first I believe on the -specific subject, met with a warm reception from a -numerous and good-humoured auditory; and received long -and flattering notices from the local papers, “the Ipswich -Journal,” and “the Suffolk Chronicle.” My enterprising -and liberal publisher, has thought it worthy of more extended -circulation. May the public think with him, and -take it off his hands as freely as he has taken it off mine!</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have modified the passages which referred to the -illustrations; the greater portion of which it would, independently -of expense, have been impossible to give with -any effect on a small scale. Mr. F. B. Russel, (to whom -with his worthy brother artist, Mr. Thomas Smyth, I was -indebted for the original design,) has, with a kindness I -can better appreciate than acknowledge, anastaticized the -humorous drawing of the ape and the goat, (page 21,) -with which their joint talents enriched my Lecture. Mr. -Russel has also very skilfully introduced into the title -page, reduced copies of the three view’s of the Greek head -of Jupiter, referred to at page 14.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since its delivery, many notes have been added to the -Lecture, which it is hoped will afford both amusement and -information. It now only remains for me to make my bow, -wish my “<i>fratres barbati</i>,” long life to their Beards, and -shout</p> -<div class='blackletter'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c005'> - <div>Vivat Regina!</div> - <div class='c000'>Floreat Barba!</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c005'> - <div><span class='xxlarge'>The Philosophy of Beards.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c010' /> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i001.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -OUR most universal and most imaginative Poet, -whose single lines are often abstracts and epitomes -of poems, makes Hamlet exclaim—“What a piece of work -is man! How noble in reason! how infinite in faculties! -in form and moving, how express and admirable! in -action, how like an angel! in apprehension, how like a -God! the beauty of the world! the paragon of animals!” -And yet this same glorious creature, thus worthily praised, -is, with singular contradiction, so forgetful of his higher attributes, -that he can despise his reason! ignore his infinite -faculties! deliberately deface that form so express and -admirable! descend to actions that smack rather of the -demon than the angel! Drown his godlike apprehension -in drink! Shave off his majestic beauty! and become, -instead of the paragon—the parody of animals!</p> - -<p class='c009'>O Fashion! most mighty, but most capricious of goddesses! -what strange vagaries playest thou with the sons -and daughters of men! What is there so lovely, that thou -canst not, with a word, transform into an object of disgust -and abhorrence? What so ugly and repulsive, but thou -hast the art to exalt it into a golden image for thy slaves -to worship, on pain of the fiery furnace of ridicule? Could -a collection be made of the forms and figures, modes and -mummeries, which thou hast imposed on thy ofttimes too -willing votaries, it would task the most vivid imagination, -the most fantastic stretch of fancy, to furnish a description -of the incongruous contents!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Perhaps no human feature has been more the subject of -Fashion’s changeable humours than the <span class='sc'>Beard</span>, of which it -is purposed to night to render some account, in the hope -of being able to prove that in no instance has she been -guilty of more deliberate offences against nature and reason! -With this object in view, the structure, intention, -and uses of the Beard will be examined, and its artistic -relations indicated; its history will next be traced; and a -reply will then be briefly given to some objections against -wearing the Beard, not embraced in the preceding matter.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i002.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>I. PHYSIOLOGY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i003.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -A QUAINT old Latin author asks, “What is a Beard? -Hair? and what is Hair? a Beard?” Perhaps a -Beard may be defined more clearly by stating, that in its -full extent it comprehends all hair visible on the countenance -below the eyes, naturally growing down the sides of -the face, crossing the cheeks by an inverted arch, fringing -the upper and lower lips, covering the chin above and below, -and hanging down in front of the neck and throat:—moustaches -and whiskers being merely parts of a general -whole. The hair of the head differs from that of the -Beard. In an enlarged microscopical view, the former is -seen to resemble a flattened cylinder, tapering off towards -the extremity. It has a rough outer bark, and a finer -inner coat; and contains, like a plant, its central pith, consisting -of oil and coloring matters. At the lower part it is -bulbous, and the pith vessels rest on a large vesicle. The -bulb is enclosed in a fold of the skin, and imbedded in the -sebaceous glands. The root is usually inserted obliquely -to the surface. Avoiding further detail, let me at once -direct your attention to the circumstance, that whereas -the hair of the head is only furnished with one pith tube, -that of the Beard, is provided with two.<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c012'><sup>[1]</sup></a> Is not this a -striking fact to commence with? and does it not at once -suggest that this extra provision must have a special purpose? -It has, as we shall presently see; and only now -add, that the hairs of the Beard are more deeply inserted -and more durable; flatter, and hence more disposed to curl.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As the Beard makes its appearance simultaneously with -one of the most important natural changes in man’s constitution, -it has in all ages been regarded as the ensign -of manliness. All the leading races of men, whether of -warm or cold climates, who have stamped their character -on history—Egyptians, Indians, Jews, Assyrians, Babylonians, -Persians, Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Celts, Turks, -Scandinavians, Sclaves—were furnished with an abundant -growth of this natural covering. Their enterprizes were -accordingly distinguished by a corresponding vigour and -daring. The fact, too, is indisputable, that their hardiest -efforts were cotemporaneous with the existence of their -Beards; and a closer investigation would show that the -rise and fall of this natural feature has had more influence -on the progress and decline of nations, than has hitherto -been suspected. Though there are <i>individual</i> exceptions, -the absence of Beard is usually a sign of physical and -moral weakness; and in degenerate tribes wholly without, -or very deficient, there is a conscious want of manly -dignity, and contentedness with a low physical, moral, -and intellectual condition. Such tribes have to be sought -for by the physiologist and ethnologist; the <i>historian</i> is -never called upon to do honor to their deeds. Nor is it -without significance that the effeminate Chinese have -signalized their present attempt to become once more free -men, instead of tartar tools—by a formal resolve to have -done with pigtails, and let their hair take its natural course -over head and chin.<a id='r2' /><a href='#f2' class='c012'><sup>[2]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>But the hair does not merely act as an external sign; -it has, or it would not be there, its own proper and distinct -functions to perform. The most important of these is the -protection of some of the most susceptible portions of -our frame from cold and moisture—those fruitful sources -of painful, and often fatal, disease. And what more -admirable contrivance could be thought of for this purpose -than a free and graceful veil of hair—a substance possessing -the important properties of power to repel moisture, -and to serve as a non-conductor of heat and electricity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Let me now show you what lies underneath the surface -naturally covered by the Beard. We have first that -ganglion or knot, the seat of the exquisitely painful affection -tic doloureux. From it you will perceive white threads of -nerves radiating to the jaws precisely in the line protected -by the Beard. As you contemplate it, you can hardly -fail to be struck with the fact, that in shaving may sometimes -originate that local paralysis which disfigures the -corners of the mouth. Next we have the nerves of the -teeth, which all know to be so affected by changes of -temperature.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Glance now, if you please, at those glands which secrete -and elaborate the lymph which is to form part of the circulating -fluid, and in which scrofula often has its origin, -and some say its name. They are peculiarly liable to be -affected by cold and moisture, presenting then those well-known -unsightly swellings about the neck: they therefore -receive an extra protection, the hair usually growing much -more thickly on the parts where they are met with than -elsewhere.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There are another set of glands, the sebaceous, which -are thickly concentrated on the chin. Now shaving is the -cause that the hairs on this part are liable to a peculiar -and very irritating disease, which imparts a kind of foretaste -of purgatory to many unfortunate victims of that -unnatural practice. Those with strong beards most righteously -suffer the most; for the more efficient the natural -protection is, the greater is also the folly of its removal.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Lastly, there are the tonsils, and the glands of the -throat and larynx. Few require to be told how common -at present are acute and chronic affections of these parts.</p> - -<p class='c009'>That the Beard was intended as a protection to the -whole of them, any one may satisfy himself by wearing it -and then shaving it off in cold or damp weather. If not -inclined to try this experiment, and mind I do not recommend -it, perhaps the following evidence will be sufficiently -convincing. Firstly, the historical fact that the Russian -soldiers, when compelled to shave by Peter the Great, -suffered most severely. Secondly, the medical testimony -extracted from the Professional Dictionary of Dr. Copeland, -one of the first Physicians of the day, where it is stated, -“Persons in the habit of wearing long Beards, have often -been affected with rheumatic pains in the face, or with -sore throat on shaving them off. In several cases of -chronic sore throat, wearing the Beard under the chin, or -upon the throat, has prevented a return of the complaint.” -Thirdly, the fact that several persons in this town (Ipswich) -have been so cured. And lastly, this brief but important -testimony of the men of the Scottish Central -Railway, dated Perth, 24th August, 1853.</p> - -<p class='c013'>“We, the servants of the Scottish Central Railway, beg -to inform you, that having last summer seen a circular -recommending the men employed upon railways to cultivate -the growth of their Beards, as the best protection -against the inclemency of the weather, have been induced -to follow this advice; and the benefit we have derived -from it, induces us to recommend it to the general adoption -of our brothers in similar circumstances throughout -the kingdom. We can assure them, from our own experience, -that they will by this means be saved from the bad -colds and sore throats of such frequent occurrence without -this natural protection.”</p> -<div class='c014'>Signed by 5 Guards, 1 Inspector of Police,</div> -<div class='c014'>2 Engine Men, and 1 Fireman.</div> - -<p class='c015'>Let us next see, for it is a highly interesting point in a -consumption-breeding climate like ours, where thousands -of victims annually die, <i>how</i> the entrances to the air passages -and lungs are protected by the upper part of the -beard—the moustache. We draw air in commonly -through the nose, and breathe it out through the mouth: -though occasionally the two passages exchange functions. -In a section of the nose, the interior of the nostril is seen -to communicate, by a slightly curved passage, with the -back entrance to the mouth and throat. Now as the -incoming air must follow the direction of the draught, you -will readily perceive that any air entering by the nostrils -must pass through or over the hair of the moustache, and -be warmed in the passage: and when the air makes its -way by the mouth, it must pass under the moustache and -be warmed, like that under the eaves of a thatched roof.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The moustache, however, not merely warms the inspired -air, but filters it from superfluous moisture, dirt, dust, and -smoke; and soon we trust it will be deemed as rational to -deprive the upper lip of its protecting fringe, as to shave -the eyebrows or pluck out the eyelashes.<a id='r3' /><a href='#f3' class='c012'><sup>[3]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Those to whom the extent of preventible disease among -our artizans—disease arising solely from their employments -is unknown, I must refer to Mr. Thackrah’s book -on that specific subject. Scientific ingenuity had long -attempted to devise contrivances to relieve the men from -some of these diseases; but the schemes were found too -cumbrous, or otherwise impracticable. As so often happens, -what <i>men</i> were profoundly searching for, <i>nature</i> had -placed directly under their noses. Mr. Chadwick, to whom -the public are indebted for much valuable information on -questions connected with the public health, and Dr. -Alison, of Glasgow, one of whom had seen the particles -of iron settling on and staining the Beards of foreign -smiths; and the other had noticed the dusty Beards of -foreign masons when at work, were led to the conclusion, -independently of each other, that the iron and stone dust -were much better deposited on the Beard (whence they -could be washed), than in the lungs, where they would be -sure to cause disease. The lungs of a mason for instance -are preserved in Edinburgh, which are one concrete mass -of stone. These gentlemen published their convictions; -and through the beneficial agency of the press, that information, -aided by papers in the “Builder,” and in -“Dickens’s Household Words,” soon found its way to our -artizans, many of whom have tried the experiment, and -borne testimony to its satisfactory results. At this -juncture, let us also hope that the reiterated opinions of -eminent Army Surgeons will at length be listened to, and -the British Soldier be freed from the apoplectic leathern -stock, and allowed to wear that protection which nature -endowed him with. To the latter the most rigid economist -cannot object, since it will add nothing to the estimates, -while it will enable the soldier to offer, if not a -bolder, at least a more formidable front, to the foe, and -save him from many of the hazards of the march in which -more die than on the field of battle!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Though the subject has as yet received too little scientific -attention, there can be no doubt that the hair generally -has a further important function to perform in regulating -the electricity which is so intimately connected with the -condition of the nerves.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have reserved to the last the curious fact, which in -itself is perfectly conclusive as to the protecting office of -the Beard, and explains why its hair has additional provision -for its nourishment; and this fact is, that while the -hair of the head usually falls off with the approach of age, -that of the Beard, on the contrary, continues to <i>grow</i> and -<i>thicken</i> to the latest period of life. He must be indeed insensible -to all evidence of design, who does not acknowledge -in this a wise and beneficent provision, especially -when he connects with it the other well-known fact, that -the skull becomes denser, and the brain less sensitive, while -the parts shielded by the Beard are more susceptible than -ever, and have less vitality to contend with prejudicial -influences.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Before proceeding further it may be as well briefly to -answer the question, why, if Beards be so necessary for -men, women have no provision of the kind? The reason I -take to be this, that they are women, and were consequently -never intended to be exposed to the hardships and difficulties -men are called upon to undergo. Woman was made -a help meet for man, and it was designed that man should -in return, protect her to the utmost of his power from those -external circumstances which it is his duty boldly to encounter. -Her hair grows naturally longer, and in the -savage state she is accustomed to let it fall over the neck -and shoulders. The ancient Athenian and Lombard -women are even said to have accompanied their husbands -to the battle-field with their hair so arranged as to imitate -the Beard. In more civilized society, various contrivances -are resorted to by the gentler sex for protection, -which would be utterly unsuitable to the sterner. In saying -this I do not include the present absurd bonnet, which -seems purposely contrived to expose rather than shield the -fair, and to excite our pity and cause us to tremble while -we cannot but admire!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two curious exceptional cases of bearded women must -not be passed over; one, that of a female soldier in the -army of Charles XII, who was taken at the battle of Pultowa, -where she had fought with a courage worthy of her -Beard: the other, that of Margaret of Parma, the celebrated -Regent of the Netherlands, who conceived that her -Beard imparted such dignity to her appearance, that she -would never allow a hair of it to be touched.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>II. ARTISTIC DIVISION.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -NOT only was the Beard intended to serve the important -purposes just described; but, combining -beauty with utility, to impart manly grace and free finish -to the male face. To its picturesqueness Poets and Painters, -the most competent judges, have borne universal testimony. -It is indeed impossible to view a series of bearded -portraits, however indifferently executed, without feeling -that they possess dignity, gravity, freedom, vigour, and -completeness; while in looking on a row of razored faces, -however illustrious the originals, or skilful the artists, a -sense of artificial conventional bareness is experienced.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Addison gives vent to the same notion, when he makes -Sir Roger de Coverley point to a venerable bust in Westminster -Abbey, and ask “whether our forefathers did not -look much wiser in their Beards, than we without them?” -and say, “for my part, when I am in my gallery in the -country, and see my ancestors, who many of them died -before they were of my age, I cannot forbear regarding -them as so many old Patriarchs, and at the same time -looking upon myself as an idle smock-faced young fellow. -I love to see your Abrahams, your Isaacs, and your Jacobs, -as we have them in the old pieces of tapestry, with Beards -below their girdles that cover half the hangings.” The -knight added, “if I would recommend Beards in one of -my papers, and endeavour to restore human faces to their -ancient dignity, upon a month’s warning he would undertake -to lead up the fashion himself in a pair of whiskers.” -In reference to this last allusion it may be as well to state, -that the word whisker is frequently used by earlier authors -to denote the moustache, and that in Addison’s time, a mass -of false hair was worn, and the head and face close shaven.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To shew that it is the Beard alone that causes the sensation -we have alluded to, look at two drawings on exactly -the same original outline, of a Greek head of Jupiter, the -one with, the other without the Beard! What say you? -Is not the experiment a sort of “occular demonstration” -in favor of nature, and a justification of art and artists? -See how the forehead of the bearded one rises like a well-supported -dome—what depth the eyes acquire—how firm -the features become—how the muscular angularity is modified—into -what free flowing lines the lower part of the oval -is resolved, and what gravity the increased length given to -the face imparts.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As amusing and instructive pendants, take two drawings -of the head of a lion, one with and the other without the -mane. You will see how much of the majesty of the king -of the woods, as well as that of the lord of the earth, -dwells in this free flowing appendage. By comparing -these drawings with those of Jupiter, you will detect, I -think, in the head of the lion whence the Greek sculptor -drew his ideal of this noble type of godlike humanity.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Since this idea struck me, Mr. John Marshall, in a -lecture at the Government School of Practical Art, has -remarked, “that nature leaves nothing but what is beautiful -uncovered, and that the masculine chin is seldom sightly, -because it was <i>designed to be covered</i>, while the chins of -women are generally beautiful.” This view he supported -by instancing, “that the bear, the rabbit, the cat, and the -bird, are hideous to look upon when deprived of their -hairy and feathery decorations: but the horse, the greyhound, -and other animals so sparingly covered that the -shape remains unaltered by the fur, are beautiful even in -their naked forms.” This argument, it seems to me, -applies with greater force to the various ages of man. In -the babe, the chin is exceedingly soft, and its curve blends -into those of the face and neck: in the boy it still retains -a feminine gentleness of line, but as he advances to the -youth, the bones grow more and more prominent, and the -future character begins to stamp itself upon the form: at -the approach of manhood, the lines combining with those -of the mouth become more harsh, angular, and decided; -in middle age, various ugly markings establish themselves -about both, which in age are rendered not only deeper, -but increased in number by the loss of the teeth and the -falling in of the lips, which of course distorts all the -muscles connected with the mouth. Such, however, is the -force of prejudice founded on custom, that people who -sink themselves to the ears in deep shirt collars, and to -the chin in starched cravat and stiffened stock, muffle -themselves in comforters till their necks are as big as their -waists; nay do not demur some of them to be seen in -that abomination of ugliness—that huge black patch of -deformity—a respirator, have still sufficient face left to -tell us that the expression of the countenance would be -injured by restoring the Beard!</p> - -<p class='c009'>A word, therefore, on the expression of Bearded faces. -The works of the Greeks,<a id='r4' /><a href='#f4' class='c012'><sup>[4]</sup></a> the paintings of the old -Masters, but above all the productions of the pencil of -Raphael, justly styled “the Painter of Expression,” is a -sufficient general answer to this ill-considered charge. It -would indeed be strange if He who made the male face, -and fixed the laws of every feature—clothing it with hair, -as with a garment, should in this last particular have made -an elaborate provision to mar the excellency of His own -work! Nothing indeed but the long effeminizing of our -faces could have given rise to the present shaven ideal—to -the forgetfulness of the true standard of masculine -beauty of expression, which is naturally as antipodal as the -magnetic north and south poles, to that of female loveliness, -where delicacy of line, blushing changeable colour, -and eyes that win by seeming not to wish it, are charms -we all feel, and at the same time understand how inappropriate -they are when applied to the opposite sex; where -the bold enterprizing brow—the deep penetrating eye—the -daring, sagacious nose, and the fleshy but firm mouth, -well supported on the decided projecting chin, proclaim a -being who has an appointed path to tread, and hard rough -work to do, in this world of difficulties and ceaseless transition.</p> - -<p class='c009'>So much for the general charge; if we examine the -separate features, there can be no question that the upper -part of the face—the most godlike portion—where the -mind sits enthroned, gains in expression by the addition -of and contrast with the Beard; the nose also is thrown -into higher relief, while the eyes acquire both depth and -brilliancy. The mouth, which is especially the seat of the -affections, its surrounding muscles rendering it the reflex -of every passing emotion, owes its general expression to -the line between the lips—the key to family likeness; and -this line is more sharply defined by the shadow cast by the -moustache, from which the teeth also acquire additional -whiteness, and the lips a brighter red. Neither the mouth -nor chin are, as we have said, unsightly in early life, but at -a later period the case is otherwise. There is scarcely indeed -a more <i>naturally</i> disgusting object than a beardless -old man (compared by the Turks to a “plucked pigeon,”) -with all the deep-ploughed lines of effete passions, grasping -avarice, disappointed ambition, the pinchings of -poverty, the swollen lines of self-indulgence, and the distortions -of disease and decay! Now the Beard, which, as -the Romans phrased it, “buds” on the face of youth in a -soft downiness in harmony with immature manliness, and -lengthens and thickens with the progress of life, keeps -gradually covering, varying, and beautifying, as the -“mantling ivy” the rugged oak, or the antique tower, and -by playing with its light free forms over the harsher characteristics, -imparts new graces even to decay, by heightening -all that is still pleasing, veiling all that is repulsive.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The colour of the Beard is usually warmer than that of -the hair of the head, and reflection soon suggests the -reason. The latter comes into contact chiefly with the -forehead, which has little colour; but the Beard grows out -of the face where there is always more or less. Now -nature makes use of the colours of the face in painting -the Beard—a reason by the bye for not attempting to alter -the original hue, and carries off her warm and cold colours -by that means. Never shall I forget the circumstance of -a gentleman with high colour, light brown hair, full whiskers -of a warm brown, deepening into a warm black, and -good looking, though his features, especially the nose, were -not regular—taking a whim into his head to shave off his -whiskers. Deprived of this fringe, the colour of his cheeks -looked spotty, his nose forlorn and wretched, and his whole -face like a house on a hill-top exposed to the north east, -from which the sheltering plantations had been ruthlessly -removed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The following singular fact in connection with the colour -of the Beard, I learnt in chance conversation with a hairdresser. -Observing that persons like him with high complexion -and dark hair, had usually a purple black beard: -he said, “that’s true, sir,” and told me he had “found in -his own Beard, and in those of his customers, distinct red -hairs intermingled with the black,” just as it is stated that -in the grey fur of animals there are distinct rings of white -and black hairs. This purplish bloom of a black Beard is -much admired by the Persians; and curiously enough -they produce the effect by a red dye of henna paste, followed -by a preparation of indigo.</p> - -<p class='c009'>There is one other point connected with colour which -ought not to be omitted. All artists know the value of -white in clearing up colours. Now let any one look at an -old face surrounded by white hair, whether in man or -woman, and he will perceive a harmonizing beauty in it, -that no artificial imitation of more youthful colours can -possibly impart. In this, as in other cases, the natural is -the most becoming.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Permit me to conclude this section of my lecture by -reminding all who wish to let their Beards grow, that there -is a law above fashion, and that each individual face is -endowed with its individual Beard, the form and colour of -which is determined by similar laws to those which regulate -the tint of the skin, the form and colour of the hair -of the head, eyebrows, and eyelashes; and therefore the -most becoming, even if ugly in itself, to their respective -physiognomies. What suits a square face, will not suit -an oval, and a high forehead demands a different Beard to -a low one. Leave the matter therefore to nature, and in -due season the fitting form and colour will manifest themselves. -And here parties who have never shaved have this -great advantage over those who have yielded to the unnatural -custom, that hair will only be visible, even when -present, in its proper place, be better in character and -colour, and more graceful in its form.</p> - -<p class='c009'>And now, ladies and gentlemen, as all history we are -told grew out of fable, allow me, as a sort of intermezzo, -to preface my history by “a Fable for the Times.”</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>An Ape, one day, said to a Goat,</div> - <div class='line'>“Why wear that nasty ugly Beard?</div> - <div class='line'>I’ll shave you for a quarter groat</div> - <div class='line'>Cleaner than Sheep was ever shear’d.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Thank you, Sir Ape!” the Goat replied,</div> - <div class='line'>“I’ll think of it.” To court he ran,</div> - <div class='line'>Where he the foplings busy spied</div> - <div class='line'>Effacing ev’ry mark of man:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Thinking to win the softer sex</div> - <div class='line'>By making themselves <i>softer</i> still.</div> - <div class='line'>“Ah!” says our Goat, “ah! ah! I’feggs,</div> - <div class='line'>I’ll be in fashion, that I will!”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>He seats himself, the Ape’s not slow,</div> - <div class='line'>But tucks the cloth in, and then lathers;</div> - <div class='line'>When lo! stalk’d by a goodly row,</div> - <div class='line'>A solemn train of old Church Fathers!</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>With these came Doctors of each Art,</div> - <div class='line'>And each one pointed to his Beard!</div> - <div class='line'>Our Goat sprang up, with sudden start,</div> - <div class='line'>Like one whom conscience makes afeard.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“O Ape! this man’s a creature brave,</div> - <div class='line'>To whom we all like slaves submit;</div> - <div class='line'>Bearded to-day—t’morrow he’ll shave,</div> - <div class='line'>Then where’s the good of his boasted wit!</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“There’s your apron! take your basin!</div> - <div class='line'>’Tis best to abide by nature’s rule:</div> - <div class='line'>His Beard no Goat will see disgrace in,</div> - <div class='line'>Whom nature did not make a fool!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c000'> - <div>MORAL.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Let your Beards grow in their natural shapes,</div> - <div class='line'>God made you all <i>Men</i>, don’t make yourselves <i>Apes</i>!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i021.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>III. HISTORICAL SURVEY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Egyptians.</span></h3> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i022.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -HAVING seen that the Beard is a natural feature of -the male face, and that the Creator intended it for -distinction, protection, and ornament, let us turn lightly -over the pages of history and examine the estimation in -which it has been held at various times among the leading -people, ancient and modern.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The first nation which suggests itself is the Egyptian, -and very peculiar forms of Beard were assigned by them -on their monuments to their gods, kings, and common -people. That of the gods is curled and the length of the -oval of the face: that of the kings is shaped like an Egyptian -doorway, and three fourths of the same standard: of -which the people’s is one fourth and nearly square. This -appendage seems from the appearance of an attaching -band to have been frequently artificial, and probably the -Egyptians, who, as you may see by the wig in the British -Museum, wore false hair, also wore false Beards. Some -have supposed the forms alluded to, to be mere symbols of -the male sex on the monuments; but this notion is disproved -by male persons being represented without them. -That they were occasionally so used, however, is clear from -the kingly Beard on that symbol of royalty the Sphynx.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The priests of this ancient nation are stated to have -removed every hair from the body thrice a week; and they -ultimately compelled the people to shave both their heads -and faces; and all slaves and servants, though foreigners, -were obliged to do the same. That this arose from some -superstitious notion of cleanliness, is confirmed by the -remark of Herodotus, “that no Egyptian of either sex, -would on any account kiss the lips of a bearded Greek, or -make use of his knife, spit, or cauldron, or taste the meat -of an animal which had been slaughtered by his hand.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>In times of mourning, however, the Egyptians allowed -the hair of the head and Beard to grow in token of grief.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Jews.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>Such was the practice of the Egyptians; and it is -highly important to take the Jews next, because at the -period of our first knowledge of them as a people, they -appear in bondage to the former nation; and it is now -generally believed that most of the usages established by -Moses had more or less reference to Egyptian customs, -from which he was desirous of weaning them. As might -be expected from the inspired Lawgiver, whose sublime -books start with the grand assertion, that man was made -“in the express image of God,” any attempt to alter -the natural features of the “human face divine,” was denounced -and emphatically interdicted. Twice is the commandment -issued—first to the whole people, “thou shalt -not mar the corners of thy Beard,” in other words, thou shalt -not alter the form thereof, which I thy God have appointed! -Then to the Priests, with the addition, that they -should not make baldness upon their heads. It is of the -utmost consequence to recall the superstitious practice of -the Egyptian Priests, and to remember that Moses issued -this command to the Aaronites, fresh from Egypt, because -it most convincingly shews that the practice of shaving, -even when resorted to with the view of pleasing the Deity, -by an extreme degree of external purity, in approaching -His mysterious presence, was directly and most absolutely -forbidden. It is as if God had said, “What art thou, O -man! who thinkest in thy vain imagination that I, thy -Creator, knew not how to fashion thee! and blasphemously -supposest that thou canst please me, by superstitiously -sacrificing what I, in my Almighty wisdom, had endowed -thee with, for protection and ornament!” And, as if to -mark the distinction more strongly, Moses enjoined in the -strictest manner every ordinary and natural method of -purifying the person.</p> - -<p class='c009'>It cannot but be instructive to note, that thus on the very -threshold of history, we have two customs so opposite -brought into contrast—the one strongly condemned, the -other most awfully sanctioned. And it is the more necessary -to mark this, because there are many religious persons -who have by custom acquired the Egyptian notion, and -forgotten its emphatic condemnation. There are many -who, though told that certain diseases to which the more -active of the clergy are specially liable, might be prevented -and may be cured, by simply wearing the Beard, will still -insist upon their ministers paying the penalty invariably -attaching to a violation of God’s laws, because their prejudices -lead them to fancy a smooth face rather than a -manly one.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As further confirmation of our idea that the object of -this law of Moses was to prevent any of the natural features -from being materially altered—he objected not to -trimming the Beard, which was a common Jewish practice—is -to be found in the first verse of the 14th chapter of -Deuteronomy, where the people are commanded not to -shave their eyebrows; which was a customary mark of grief -among some bearded nations. The Jews too, unlike the -Persians and others, instead of shaving the Beard in time -of mourning—though in the violence of oriental grief they -sometimes plucked it—usually left it merely untrimmed or -veiled, till the days of mourning were passed.</p> - -<p class='c009'>You all remember the fearful vengeance David took -when his ambassadors were disgraced by shaving their -Beards.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Beard continued to be worn in all its glory by these -chosen people, and it would be impossible for us to imagine -to ourselves the appearance of any of their patriarchs, -judges, priests, prophets, or mature kings—or of the -sublime founder of our religion—or of the chosen twelve—save -the youthful John, without this venerable and -venerated feature. What painter would dare such an -offence to our most sacred associations, as to represent any -of these with the smirking smoothness of razored neatness!</p> - -<p class='c009'>That in Mahomet’s time, the Jews still held to their -primitive custom, is evident from that lawgiver’s command -to his followers to clip the whiskers and Beard, -in order to distinguish themselves from the Jews. Indeed -the latter, in every way most remarkable people, have clung -to the prescribed custom with all the force of religious feeling -and firm conviction. And however in modern times -some of the laity, impelled by a desire to mix unobserved -amongst the populations of Western Europe, may have -sacrificed conviction to convenience, their Rabbies have -remained invariably consistent in their testimony to truth -and nature; and one of the most enduring impressions of -my youth is the remembrance of the Chief Rabbi Herschel -treading the streets of London, like the last of the prophets, -in dark robes, with long pale face and flowing -Beard,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>And eyes, whose deep mysterious glow,</div> - <div class='line'>Disdainful of each fleeting show,</div> - <div class='line'>Dwelt in the old and sacred past,</div> - <div class='line'>Or Seer-like scann’d the future, vast.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Assyrians and Babylonians.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Assyrians and Babylonians, as we know from the -researches and discoveries of Layard and others, wore -highly ornamental Beards, in which they were followed by -the ancient Persians, and the bands appearing on them -were of gold.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Persians, Arabs, and Turks.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The ancient Arabs, like their kindred, the Jews, were -Bearded, and like them also they have preserved their -Beards intact, though their faith has more than once -changed. From Mahomet’s time we may class them for -our purpose with the Turks and Persians, since all have -manifested the same respect for the Beard, looking upon -it as the perfection and completion of man’s countenance -and the type of freedom; and shaving as a mark of debasement -and slavery.<a id='r5' /><a href='#f5' class='c012'><sup>[5]</sup></a> Mahomet, who sanctioned dyeing -the Beard, preferred that it should be of a cane colour, -which was the hue assigned by tradition to Abraham’s. -One of the points of Persian heresy is preferring a black -Beard, and a particular cut; and about this hair-splitting -difference, they once waged a cruel war with the Uzbec -Tartars, in which they were accustomed to lay their enemies’ -Beards as trophies at the feet of the Shah.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As instances of respect paid to the Beard, we may cite -the common Mahomedan oath “by the Beard of the Prophet!” -and the form of supplication, “by your Beard, or -the life of your Beard.” The Turks will point to theirs -and say, “do you think this venerable Beard could lie?” -And a man’s testimony used to be so much measured by -his Beard, that in hiring a witness, length of this appendage -was an indispensable qualification. To touch another’s -Beard, unless to kiss it respectfully, is considered -by all these people a great insult. When two friends meet, -to kiss it, sometimes on both sides, answers to our shake -of the hand—how are you? and “may God preserve your -Beard!” is a form of invoking a blessing on a friend. In -the bosoms of their families the Beard is treated as an -object of reverential fondness—wife and children kissing -it with the most tender and respectful affection. To express -high value for a thing, they say, “it is worth more -than one’s Beard.”<a id='r6' /><a href='#f6' class='c012'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>“Shame on your Beard!” is a term of reproach, and -“I spit on your Beard!” an expression of the most profound -contempt. When the Shah of Persia, in 1826, was -speaking to our Ambassador, (Sir J. Malcolm,) concerning -the Russians, to shew how low he esteemed them, he -exclaimed, “I spit on their Beards!”<a id='r7' /><a href='#f7' class='c012'><sup>[7]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>To cut off the Beard is considered a deep disgrace and -degradation. The noted Wahahee Chief Saoud was accustomed -to shave the Beard as a punishment for the -gravest offences. He had long wished to purchase the -mare of a Sheikh of the Shahmanny tribe, but all his -offers were rejected. A Sheikh of the Kahtans, however, -having been sentenced to lose his hairy honors, when the -barber appeared, exclaimed, “O Saoud, take the mare of -the Shahmanny as a ransom for my Beard!” The offer -was accepted, and a bargain struck with the owner of the -mare for 2,500 dollars, which he declared he would not -have taken, nor any other sum, had it not been to save -the Beard of a noble Kahtan.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Even when disease or accident renders necessary the -removal of the whole or part of the Beard, it is only at -the last extremity that an Arab will yield; and then he -lives secluded, or if obliged to go out, wears a thick black -veil, until his chin can reappear “with all its pristine -honours blushing thick upon it.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Almost every Mahomedan carries a comb with him for -the sole purpose of arranging his Beard: this is often -done, especially after prayers; when the devotee usually -remains sitting on his heels and industriously using the -comb. The hairs which fall are carefully collected, to be -either buried with the owner, or deposited previously in -his tomb, after having been first separately broken in order -to release the guardian angels.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To perfume and fumigate the Beard with incense is a -common eastern custom.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In mourning, the Persians shave themselves; and -Herodotus relates one instance when they also cropped the -manes and tails of their horses in honor of their leader -Mardonius.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One wiseacre of a Sultan is said to have shaved his -Beard, saying “his councillors should never lead him by -it, as they had done his forefathers!” forgetting that he -had still left them the convenient handle of his nose—by -which, as you know, ladies and gentlemen, people have -been led from time immemorial. Let me hope, therefore, -no one will cite this as an historical precedent for shaving.</p> - -<p class='c009'>He was fortunately succeeded by wiser men, and the -Sultan is yet distinguished by a goodly Beard:<a id='r8' /><a href='#f8' class='c012'><sup>[8]</sup></a> as is also -the Shah of Persia, and all the Arabs and their Chiefs.</p> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Greeks.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The ancient Greeks were world-famous for their Beards. -All Homer’s heroes are bearded, and Nestor the Sage is -described as stroking his as a graceful prelusion to an -oration. Saturn, Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, Mars, Vulcan, -Mercury, are represented with Beards. Apollo is without, -as an emblem of perpetual youth. Hercules and the demigods -are also well furnished. And Æsculapius the God -of Health,—significant fact!—is most abundantly endowed. -The mother of Achilles, when supplicating Jupiter, touches -his Beard with one hand, with the other his knee.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As might be supposed from their hardy characteristics, -the Spartans especially cherished the Beard. When one -Nicander was asked why? he replied, “because we esteem -it the ornament that preeminently distinguishes man.” It -being demanded of another why he wore so <i>long</i> a Beard? -his noble reply was, “Since it is grown white, it incessantly -reminds me not to dishonor my old age.”<a id='r9' /><a href='#f9' class='c012'><sup>[9]</sup></a> Plutarch, -after mentioning the bushy hair and Beard of the -Spartan commander Lysander, says, “that Lycurgus was of -opinion that abundance of hair and Beard made those who -were fair, more so, and those who were ugly, more terrible -to their enemies.” Regarding shaving as a mark of slavish -servitude, they compelled their chief magistrates to shave -their upper lips during their term of office, to remind -them that though administrators of the laws, they were -still subject to them.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Greeks in general continued to wear the Beard till -the decay of Athenian virtue brought that free state into -subjection to the Macedonian Conqueror, who, according -to Plutarch, ordered his soldiers to shave, lest their Beards -should afford a handle to their enemies. This must have -been when he was in one of his drunken fits, or he might -have had them trimmed like the old Greek warriors.<a id='r10' /><a href='#f10' class='c012'><sup>[10]</sup></a> Be -that as it may, Greek freedom and Greek Beards expired -together.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Diogenes, cotemporary with Alexander, once asked a -smooth-chinned voluptuary whether he quarrelled with nature -for making him a man instead of a woman? And Phocion -rebuking one who courted the people and affected a long -Spartan Beard, said to him, “if thou needs must flatter, -why didst thou not clip thy Beard?”</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is a curious fact for those who resolve civilization -into shaving, that the only parties in ancient Greece -who retained their Beards under all changes were the -Philosophers, or lovers of wisdom—they with whom all -that distinguished Greek intellect was a special study and -profession; who were in fact the most civilized portion of -the community.</p> - -<p class='c009'>From the time of the Emperor Justinian the Greeks -resumed the Beard, which was worn by all the Greek -Emperors down to the last, the unfortunate Paleologus, -who died fighting bravely at the taking of Constantinople -by the Turks. It was by these Emperors regarded as an -ensign of royalty—an attribute of kingly majesty.</p> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Etruscans—Romans.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Etruscans represented their gods with Beards, and -wore them themselves; as did the Romans. Every schoolboy -recollects the awe inspired to the invading Gauls when, -on entering the Senate-house, they saw the conscript -Fathers sitting calm and immovable as the gods, for which -the Barbarians at first view took them, till one bolder than -the rest plucked at the Beard of the noble Marcus Papirius, -who by indignantly raising his staff, unconsciously gave -the signal for the murder of himself, and his venerable -compatriots.</p> - -<p class='c009'>During all the best ages of the Republic, while the old -Roman virtue retained something of its original vigour, -and before it had been sapped and undermined by the imported -vices and effeminate customs of conquered nations, -Rome’s statesmen, heroes, priests and people all wore, and -all reverenced, the virile glories of the Beard!</p> - -<p class='c009'>It was not till the year of Rome 454, about three centuries -before our era, that one of those corrupt Prætors, -who usually returned laden with foreign gold, and pampered -with foreign luxury, imported a stock of Barbers -from Sicily; and that credulous gossip Pliny libels the -younger Scipio Africanus by stating—calumnious on dit!—“that -he was the first who shaved his whole Beard.” This -is just one of those instances where a foolish custom, like -a bad piece of wit, is sought to be fathered on some world-renowned -name.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Long after the above date, the Beard was only partially -shaved or trimmed; and the same word (tondere) is -sometimes used to mean either. Of course when once the -fashion had set in, it was, as with us, considered -unbecoming to wear a Beard; and Marcus Livius on his return -from banishment, was compelled by the Censors to shave, -before appearing in the Senate.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With the increasing growth of vice and effeminacy -among this once hardy race, the decreasing Beard kept -pace.<a id='r11' /><a href='#f11' class='c012'><sup>[11]</sup></a> Cæsar, the real founder of the empire, by whom -every kind of foppery and debauchery was indulged in as -a mask to deep schemes of ambition, of course shaved;<a id='r12' /><a href='#f12' class='c012'><sup>[12]</sup></a> -and having done so, shaving continued to be the imperial -fashion down to the time of Hadrian, (whose bold Roman -head I exhibited, as the first restorer of manly beauty.) -From his time most of the Emperors<a id='r13' /><a href='#f13' class='c012'><sup>[13]</sup></a> wore it till Constantine, -who shaved out of superstition. His father had a -noble Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Even after the custom of shaving was introduced, the -first appearance of the Beard was hailed with joy, and -usually about the time of assuming the toga; the “first -fruits” of hair were solemnly consecrated—relict of previous -respect—to some god, as in the case of Nero,<a id='r14' /><a href='#f14' class='c012'><sup>[14]</sup></a> who -presented his in a golden box, set with jewels, to the Capitoline -Jupiter.<a id='r15' /><a href='#f15' class='c012'><sup>[15]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Shaving in token of grief was the custom of the early -Romans; when, however, that which had been considered -a deprivation became a general fashion, the Beard was -allowed to grow in time of sorrow, to denote personal -neglect.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The Roman Philosophers, like the Greek, cherished a -long Beard as the emblem of wisdom. The following -anecdote shews that it was sometimes a fallacious sign. -One of the Emperors being pestered by a man in a long -robe and Beard, asked him what he was. “Do you not -see that I am a philosopher?” was the reply. “The cloak -I see, and the Beard I see,” said the Emperor, “but the -philosopher, where is he?”</p> - -<p class='c009'>I must not conclude this notice of Roman customs -without mentioning the instructive fact, that the slaves of -the early Romans were shaved as a mark of servitude, and -not allowed to wear the distinctive sign of a free man -until emancipated. At a later period the slaves, as the -most manly, wore the Beard, and only shaved when entitled -to be put on a level with their debased and vicious -masters!</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i042.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'> -A BRIEF glance at Ecclesiastical History will -furnish one or two interesting matters. Most of the -Fathers of the Church both wore and approved of the -Beard. Clement, of Alexandria, says, “nature adorned man -like the lion, with a Beard, as the index of strength and -empire.” Lactantius, Theodoret, St. Augustine, and St. -Cyprian, are all eloquent in praise of this natural feature: -about which many discussions were raised in the early -ages of the Church, when matters of discipline necessarily -engaged much of the attention of its leaders. To settle -these disputes, at the 4th Council of Carthage, held A.D. -252, canon 44, it was enacted “that a clergyman shall -<i>not cherish his hair nor shave his Beard</i>.” (Clericus nec -comam nutriat nec barbam radat.) And Bingham quotes -an early letter, in which it is said of one who from a layman -had become a clergyman, “his habit, gait, modesty, -countenance, and discourse, were all <i>religious</i>, and <i>agreeably -to these his hair was short and his Beard long</i>;” -shewing that in those early times St. Paul was better -understood than at a later date.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Subsequently the Beard was alternately commended to -the clergy for its becoming gravity, or condemned from -the ascetic notion that pride was apt to lurk in a fine -Beard. In some of the monasteries lay members wore the -Beard, while those in orders were shaved, and the hairs, -remnant of an earlier superstition, devoutly consecrated to -God with special prayers and imposing ceremonies.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One order of the Cistercians were specially allowed to -wear their Beards, and were hence called “fratres barbati” -or Bearded brethren.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The military orders of the Church, as the Knights of -St. John and the Templars, were always full Bearded.</p> - -<p class='c009'>To touch the Beard, was at one time a solemnity by -which a godfather acknowledged the child of his adoption.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One of the fertile sources of dispute between the Roman -and Greek Churches has been this subject of wearing or -not wearing the Beard. The Greek Church, with a firm -faithfulness which does credit to its orthodoxy, has stood -manfully by the early Church decisions and refused to -admit any shaven saint into its calendar, heartily despising -the Romish Church for its weakness in this respect. On -the other hand, the Popes, to mark the distinction between -Eastern and Western christianity, early introduced statutes -“de radendis barbis,” or concerning shaving the Beard. -Here and there, however, a manly old fellow, like Pope -Julius II, who made Michael Angelo sculpture him with -a drawn sword in his hand, or a Cardinal, like Pole or -Allen, and many Bishops, managed to believe that faith -and nature might be reconciled by taking a comprehensive -and truly Catholic view of both.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The leading English and German Reformers wore their -Beards; (if Luther confined himself to a moustache, it was -because his Monkish habit of shaving was too strong for -him,) and most of the Martyrs to the Protestant Faith were -burnt in their Beards.</p> -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>MODERN HISTORY.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c007' /> -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Britons.</span></h3> -<div class='c011'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i013.jpg' width='50' height='50' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_2'> -THE Britons “like their neighbours the Gauls”<a id='r16' /><a href='#f16' class='c012'><sup>[16]</sup></a> (two -of whose heads were shewn copied from Roman -monuments,) were Bearded, though, probably, for some -purpose of distinction, their Chiefs, as stated by Cæsar -and others, had merely an enormous twisted moustache. -The Druids and their successors, the native British Clergy, -regarded this natural covering as adding to their dignity -and gracing their office and their age.<a id='r17' /><a href='#f17' class='c012'><sup>[17]</sup></a></p> - -<h3 class='c017'><span class='sc'>Saxons.</span></h3> - -<p class='c015'>The Anglo-Saxons brought their Beards with them -which they preferred of the forked shape, and this again -might be either two-pronged, or three-pronged, or -plutonian and neptunian.</p> - -<p class='c009'>St. Augustine is figured with his Beard on his appearance -to convert these Islands in the sixth century. His -followers must soon have shaved, because a writer of the -seventh century, complains that “the Clergy had grown -so corrupt as to be distinguished from the Laity less by -their actions than by their want of Beards.” The illustrious -Alfred was so careful of the Beards of his subjects, -that he inflicted the then heavy fine of twenty shillings on -any one maliciously injuring the Beard of another. The -Danes who invaded this country were Bearded. Fosbrooke -says, some of them wore Beards with six forks, and history -mentions Sueno the fork-beard.<a id='r18' /><a href='#f18' class='c012'><sup>[18]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>During this period, the French monarchy was growing. -Its first kings held the Beard as sacred, and ornamented -it with gold. Their subjects were proud of it as marking -them out to be free men in contradistinction to the -degenerate Roman population. Alaric touched the Beard of -Clovis as a solemn mode of confirming a treaty, and acknowledging -Clovis as his godfather. The Merovingian -Dynasty were Bearded. Then came Charlemagne who -swore by his Beard, as did Otho the Great and Barbarossa, -Emperors of Germany, after him. The following story -shows the faith of those early times in the sacredness of -this form of adjuration. A peasant, who had sworn a -false oath on the relics of two holy Martyrs, having taken -hold of his Beard, as further confirmation, heaven to -punish him, caused the whole to come off in his hand!</p> - -<p class='c009'>Charlemagne also enacted that any one who should -call another red beard or red-fox, should pay a heavy fine; -a law explained by a prejudice embodied in two German -proverbs.<a id='r19' /><a href='#f19' class='c012'><sup>[19]</sup></a></p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Of red beard no good heard</div> - <div class='line'>Red beard—a knave to be feared;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and carried to its climax in the anecdote of a Spanish -nobleman, who, having accused a man of some crime, -and the latter being proved innocent, exclaimed, “if he -did not do it he was plotting it, for the rascal has a -red beard!” Those who need consolation under this -calumny, traceable probably to an old notion, derived from -his name, that Judas Iscariot had a red beard, I am fortunately -able to refer to a sermon<a id='r20' /><a href='#f20' class='c012'><sup>[20]</sup></a> on that Arch-Traitor, full -of wit, humor, pathos, and imagination, by the celebrated -Abraham St. Clara, where red beards are nobly vindicated, -and the following noted instances cited:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>Several illustrious Romans,</div> - <div class='line in2'>The Emperor Barbarossa;</div> - <div class='line in2'>Hanquinus Rufus, King of the Goths;</div> - <div class='line in2'>Bishops Gaudentius and Gandulfius;</div> - <div class='line'>The Martyrs Dominicus, Maurinus, and Savinianus.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>During the distractions to which Charlemagne’s empire -was subject after his decease, the Northmen appeared, and -a band, under Rollo, having been converted and settled in -what is now Normandy, became known in English History -as the Normans; with whom an increasing intimacy -having sprung up in the reign of Edward the Confessor, -(whose head was shewn from the Bayeux tapestry,) a -Norman party was gradually formed at court and Norman -customs, one of which was shaving, partially adopted. -Harold, as representative of the real old English party, wore -his Beard as shown by a cotemporary MSS. illuminator; -but William the Conqueror, and most of his followers, are -figured only with a moustache and their back hair close -cropped or shaven. It was this <i>barbarous</i> fashion that -induced Harold’s spies to report to their master that the -invaders were an army of Priests.</p> - -<p class='c009'>William is said to have attempted to compel the sturdy -Saxons to shave, but many of them left the kingdom -rather than part with their Beards. In this, as in other -matters, Anglo-Saxon firmness ultimately conquered the -conquerors, and the Norman sovereigns gave in to the -national custom. As early as Henry I, that is <i>only 44 -years from William’s landing</i>, we learn that Bishop Serlo -met that monarch on his arrival in Normandy, and made -a long harangue on the enormities of the times, especially -long hair and bushy Beards, which he said they would not -clip, lest the stumps should wound the ladies’ faces. Henry, -with repentant obedience, submitted his hairy honors to -the Bishop, who with pious zeal, taking a pair of shears -from his trunk, trimmed king and nobles with his own -hand. This conduct of the Bishop is curiously illustrated -by a cotemporary decree of the Senate of Venice, of the -year 1102, commanding all long Beards to be cut off in -consequence of a Bull of Pope Paschal II, denouncing -the vanity of long hair, founded on a misinterpretation of -1st Corinthians, xii, 14,<a id='r21' /><a href='#f21' class='c012'><sup>[21]</sup></a> which applies only to the hair of -the head. On this text a sermon might be written though -scarcely preached, which would “a tale unfold, would -harrow up the soul.”<a id='r22' /><a href='#f22' class='c012'><sup>[22]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The stout king Stephen wore his Beard, and a Saxon -chronicler complains that in the civil wars of his time, in -order to extort the wealth of peaceable people, they were -“hung up by their Beards;” a proof the latter were long -and strong. Stephen’s cotemporary, Frederick the 1st of -Germany, to prevent quarrelling, laid a very heavy fine on -any one who pulled another’s Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Henry II, is said to have had a vision in which all -classes of his subjects reproached him in his sleep for his -tyranny and oppression. A cotemporary MSS. illuminator, -having fortunately designed several cartoons, really -much more expressive than some in the New Houses of -Parliament, from which we learn that the faces of all classes -of the people and of the Clergy then appeared as nature -made them, I selected one, representing the leaders -of the distressed agriculturalists of that remote period, -because while it illustrated my subject, it seemed to -possess great interest for that patient and much enduring -class. One could almost imagine the stout fellow with the -one-sided Saxon spade, to be urging on the heroes with -the pitchfork and scythe, nearly in the words of Marmion,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Charge, Sibthorp,<a id='r23' /><a href='#f23' class='c012'><sup>[23]</sup></a> charge! On, Stanley, on!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Henry’s Queen Eleanor had been previously the wife of -Louis VII, of France, who having been persuaded by his -Priests to shave off his Beard, so disgusted Eleanor that -she obtained a divorce.<a id='r24' /><a href='#f24' class='c012'><sup>[24]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Richard the Lion-hearted was Bearded like a lion, and -though he was so absorbed in the Crusades that he did -not redress, yet he acknowledged the justice of the complaints -of the celebrated Longbeard, “Earl of London -and King of the Poor,” who did honor to his Beard by -resisting oppression, and perished, after an heroic struggle, -the victim of cowardice and treachery. The monuments -of Roger, Bishop of Sarum, and Andrew, Abbot of Peterborough, -shew that Bishops wore the Beard, and Abbots -and Monks shaved in this reign.</p> - -<p class='c009'>John had what was called “a Judas’ Beard,” of which -his actions were every way worthy. Fortunately, the bold -Barons outbearded him, and Magna Charta was the result. -His son, Henry III, had a moderate Beard, and the longest -reign till George III. Edward I, shewed the Scots what -a long Beard could do with long shanks, and a long head -to back it.<a id='r25' /><a href='#f25' class='c012'><sup>[25]</sup></a> This king has been called the English Justinian, -both he and the Roman Emperor being noted for -improving the laws, and cherishing their Beards. Edward -the 2nd’s Beard, like his character, was more ornamental -than strong, and his reign is chiefly memorable for the -composition of that favorite old song quoted by Shakspeare, -“’Tis merry in hall, when Beards wag all!”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Edward the 3rd’s bold Beard spread terror in Scotland and -France, and that of his son, the Black Prince—young as he -died—was an apt type of his “prowess in the tented field.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Richard the 2nd, with all his faults, was neither -deficient in Beard nor in courage—the latter shewn in his -meeting with Wat Tyler, and his defence against his -assassins. Henry IV, the crafty Bolingbroke, had a chin -cover, in whose every curl lurked an intrigue, of which -his son, Henry V, who was made of other metal, was so -ashamed, we presume, that he wore in penitence a shaven -chin throughout his ten years’ reign, as may be seen by -his monument in Westminster Abbey, the remains of -which still exist.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Shaving continued partially in fashion in Henry the -6th’s reign, who himself in later life was Bearded like a -Philosopher, accustomed to moralize over the ups and -downs of life, of which he had no common share. Edward -the 4th shaved out of foppery; as did that smooth-faced -rascal, Richard III, who “could smile and smile and be a -villain.” Henry the 7th shaved himself and fleeced his -people.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As may be seen in MSS. illuminations, and as we read -in Chaucer and elsewhere, the majority of the people -stuck to their Beards, uninfluenced by the fluctuations of -court fashions. The poet, who was born in Edward the -3rd’s time, and died in Henry the 4th’s, speaks of “the -merchant’s forked Beard;” “the Franklin’s white as a -daisy;” “the shipman’s shaken by many a tempest;” “the -miller’s red as a fox, and broad as though it were a spade;” -the Reeve’s close trimmed; the Sompnour’s piled; and -ends by a contemptuous allusion to the Pardonere with his -small voice:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“No Beard had he, nor never none should have,</div> - <div class='line'>As smooth it was as it were newe shave, &c.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Henry VIII, as you may still see on many sign boards, -for which his bluff, bloated face is so well adapted, had his -Beard close clipped. Once he swore to Francis the 1st -that he would never cut it till he had visited the latter, -who swore the same; and when long Beards had become -the fashion at the French Court, Sir Thomas Bulleyn was -obliged to excuse Henry’s bad faith, by alleging that the -Queen of England felt an insuperable antipathy to a bushy -chin, which, from the known considerate conduct of Henry -to his wives, must have been a very plausible plea! Sir T. -Moore shaved previous to his imprisonment. His Beard -being then allowed to grow, he conceived such an affection -for it, that before he laid his head on the block he carefully -put it on one side, remarking “that it at least was guiltless -of treason, and ought not to be punished.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Although Francis I, and his Court, cherished their -Beards, the Chancellor Duprat advised the imposition of -a tax on the Beards of the clergy, and promised the king -a handsome revenue. The bishops and wealthier clergy -paid the tax and saved their Beards; but the poorer -ministers were not so fortunate. In the succeeding reign, -the clergy determined on revenge; so when Duprat (son -of the Chancellor) was returning in triumph from the -council of Trent, to take possession of the bishopric of -Claremont, the dean and canons closed the brass gates of -the chancel, through which they were seen armed with -shears and razor, soap and basin, and pointing to the -statutes, “de radendis barbis.” Notwithstanding his remonstrances, -they refused to induct him unless he sacrificed -his Beard, which was the handsomest of his time. -He is said to have retired to his castle, and died of -vexation.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the same reign, John de Morillers was also objected -to by the Chapter of Orleans; but the cunning fellow -produced a letter from the king stating, that the statutes -must be dispensed with in his case, as his majesty intended -to employ him in countries where he could not appear -without a Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>At the court of the rival of Francis, Charles the 5th, -who had himself a right royal covering to his chin, -lived John Mayo, his painter, a very tall man, but -with a Beard so long, that he could stand upon it; and in -which he took much pride, suspending it by ribbons to -his button-hole. Sometimes this mass of hair, by command -of the Emperor, was unfastened at table, and doors -and windows being thrown open, the imperial mind took -intense delight in seeing it blown into the faces of his -grimacing courtiers. Another noted German Beard was -that of a merchant of Braunau in Bavaria, which was so -long, that it would have draggled on the ground, had it -not been incased by its proud owner in a beautiful velvet -bag.<a id='r26' /><a href='#f26' class='c012'><sup>[26]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The promising Edward the 6th died before his Beard -developed; his sister Mary’s husband had one of the true -Spanish cut.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In the time of “good Queen Bess,” when</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The grave Lord Chancellor<a id='r27' /><a href='#f27' class='c012'><sup>[27]</sup></a> led the dance,</div> - <div class='line'>And seal and mace tripped down before him,”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>she, who was no prude, and had a right royal sympathy -with every thing manly and becoming, surrounded herself -with men, who to the most punctilious courtesy, joined -the most adventurous spirit; and the Beard, as might have -been expected, grew and flourished mightily. Hence we -are not surprised at the wonderful efforts made by her -subjects in arms, and arts, and literature, so as to make -her reign an era to which we look back with patriotic -pride, and from which our best writers still draw as from -a well of deep perennial flow.<a id='r28' /><a href='#f28' class='c012'><sup>[28]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>A feeble reflection of some of the heads of this period -were exhibited on the walls of the lecture room, as the -sagacious Burleigh; the adventurous Raleigh; the rash but -brave Essex; Nottingham, the High Admiral who scattered -the Armada; Gresham the Merchant Prince, who found -his Beard no hindrance to business; and the Poet of -Poets, whether ancient or modern, Shakspeare.</p> - -<p class='c009'>As might be expected, the dramatic literature of the -time is full of allusions to that feature which men still -honored and admired. Lear can find no more pathetic -outburst of insulted majesty, in addressing his vile -daughter Goneril, than the words—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Art not ashamed to look upon this Beard?”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and when Regan insults the faithful Gloster, the latter -exclaims—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“By the kind Gods! ’Tis most ignobly done</div> - <div class='line'>To pluck me by the Beard!”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In a more mocking humour, Shakspeare makes Cressida -say of Troilus’s chin, “alas poor chin! many a wart is -richer!” And Rosalind to Orlando, “I will pardon you -for not having a neglected Beard, for truly your having in -Beard is a younger brother’s revenue.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Then as characteristics, we have the black, white, straw-colored, -orange-tawney, purple-in-grain, and perfect yellow. -The soldier Bearded like a pard; the justice with -Beard of formal cut; the sexton’s hungry Beard; and the -Beard of the general’s cut; and that fine passage, which -you will pardon my quoting, if only to supply an obvious -correction naturally lost sight of by <i>Beardless</i> commentators. -If instead of the puerile conceit, <i>stairs</i> of sand, we -read <i>layers</i> of sand, we not only restore metaphorical -beauty but literal truth; for what is more deceitful than a -layer of sand, and the Beard is “a layer of hair.”</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“There is no one so simple but assumes</div> - <div class='line'>Some mark of virtue on his outward parts;</div> - <div class='line'>How many cowards, whose hearts are all as false</div> - <div class='line'>As <i>layers</i> of sand, wear yet upon their chins</div> - <div class='line'>The Beards of Hercules and frowning Mars,</div> - <div class='line'>Who, inward searched, have livers white as milk:</div> - <div class='line'>And these assume but valour’s excrement</div> - <div class='line'>To make themselves redoubted.”<a id='r29' /><a href='#f29' class='c012'><sup>[29]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>The witty Robert Green, published in 1592, a curious -dialogue,<a id='r30' /><a href='#f30' class='c012'><sup>[30]</sup></a> from which we get a glimpse into a Barber’s -shop of Queen Elizabeth’s time. Cloth-breeches complains -of the Barber’s attention to Velvet-breeches in these -terms. “His head being once dressed, which requires in -combing and brushing some two hours; then being curiously -washed with no worse than a camphor ball, you -descend as low as his Beard, and ask whether he please to -be shaven or no? whether he will have his peake cut short -and sharp, amiable like an innamorato, or broad pendant -like a spade, or le terrible, like a warrior or soldado? -whether he will have his crates cut low like a juniper -bush, or his subercles taken away with a razor? If it be -his pleasure to have his appendices pruned, or his moustaches -fostered to turn about his ears like the branches of a -vine, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash, to make -him look like a half-faced bauby in brass. These quaint -terms Master Barber, you greet Master Velvet-breeches -withal, and at every word a snap with your scissors and a -cringe with your knee; whereas, when you come to poor -Cloth-breeches, you either cut his Beard at your own -pleasure, or else in disdain ask him if he will be trimmed -with Christ’s cut, round like the half of a Holland cheese, -mocking both Christ and us.”<a id='r31' /><a href='#f31' class='c012'><sup>[31]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>In the reign of James the 1st, Beards continued in -fashion, and I extract two out of many passages from -Beaumont and Fletcher’s plays; the first being, not excepting -even that of Butler’s Hudibras, the most humourous -description of a Beard in the language. A banished -prince in disguise, having been elected “King of the -Beggars” on account of his Beard; Higgen the Orator of -the Troop proceeds in this fashion:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“I then presaged thou shortly wouldst be king,</div> - <div class='line'>And now thou art so. But what need presage</div> - <div class='line'>To us, that might have read it in thy Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>As well as he that chose thee! By the Beard</div> - <div class='line'>Thou wert found out and marked for sovereignty.</div> - <div class='line'>O happy Beard! but happier Prince, whose Beard</div> - <div class='line'>Was so remarked as marked out our Prince</div> - <div class='line'>Not bating us a hair. Long may it grow,</div> - <div class='line'>And thick and fair, that who lives under it</div> - <div class='line'>May live as safe as under Beggar’s Bush,</div> - <div class='line'>Of which <i>it</i> is the thing—<i>that</i> but the type.</div> - <div class='line'>This is the Beard—the bush—or bushy Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>Under whose gold and silver reign ’twas said,</div> - <div class='line'>So many ages since, we all should smile!</div> - <div class='line'>No impositions, taxes, grievances,</div> - <div class='line'>Knots in a state, and whips unto a subject,</div> - <div class='line'>Lie lurking in this Beard, but all combed out.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In his Queen of Corinth we learn that—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The Roman T, your T-Beard is the fashion,</div> - <div class='line'>And twifold doth express the enamoured courtier</div> - <div class='line'>As full as your <i>fork carving</i> doth the traveller.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>The last line alluding to Coryate the traveller’s recent -introduction of the dinner-fork from Italy.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Of this Roman T-Beard another writer humorously -says—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“The Roman T,</div> - <div class='line in2'>In its bravery,</div> - <div class='line'>Doth first itself disclose:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>But so high it turns,</div> - <div class='line in2'>That oft it burns</div> - <div class='line'>With the flame of a torrid nose.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and then adds—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>“The soldier’s Beard</div> - <div class='line in2'>Doth match in this herd</div> - <div class='line'>In figure like a spade;</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>With which he will make</div> - <div class='line in2'>His enemies quake</div> - <div class='line'>To think their grave is made.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>In 1610, died Henry IV, of France, whose Beard is -said “to have diffused over his countenance a majestic -sweetness and amiable openness;” his son Louis XIII,<a id='r33' /><a href='#f33' class='c012'><sup>[33]</sup></a> -ascending the throne while yet a minor, the courtiers and -others, to keep him in countenance, began to shave, -leaving merely the tuft called a mouche or royal. Sully, -however, the famous minister of Henry, stoutly refused to -adopt the effeminate custom. Being sent for to court, and -those about the king having mocked at his old-fashioned -Beard, the duke indignantly turned to Louis and said, -“Sire! when your father of glorious memory did me the -honor to hold a consultation on grave and important business, -the first thing he did was to order out of the room all -the buffoons and stage dancers of his court!” About this -time also, Marshal Bassompierre having been released from -a long imprisonment, declared the chief alteration he -found was, “that the men had lost their Beards and the -horses their tails.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>Under our first Charles,<a id='r34' /><a href='#f34' class='c012'><sup>[34]</sup></a> the sides of the face were often -shaven, and the Beard reduced to the moustache, and a -long chin-tuft, as in the portrait of that monarch, retaining -however still some of its former gracefulness. As the -contest grew hotter between Cavalier and Roundhead, -doubtless some of the latter cropped chin as well as head; -though others are said to have been so careful of their -Beards, as to provide them with pasteboard night-caps to -prevent the hairs being rumpled.</p> - -<p class='c009'>In one instance it was worn long for a sign, as we see -by the following verse—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“This worthy knight was one that swore</div> - <div class='line in2'>He would not cut his Beard,</div> - <div class='line'>’Till this ungodly nation was</div> - <div class='line in2'>From kings and bishops cleared:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in1'>Which holy vow he firmly kept,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And most devoutly wore</div> - <div class='line in1'>A grizzly meteor on his face,</div> - <div class='line in2'>’Till they were both no more.”<a id='r35' /><a href='#f35' class='c012'><sup>[35]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Under Charles the 2nd, the Beard dwindled into the -mere moustache, and then vanished. And when we consider -the French apery of that un-English court, it is no -wonder the Beard appeared too bold and manly an ensign -to be tolerated. It went out first among the upper classes -in London, and by slow degrees the sturdy country squires -and yeomen also yielded their free honors to the slavish -effeminate fashion, which, by the force of example, descended -even to the working classes, on whom it imposed -new burdens and some bodily diseases from which their -hardy frames had been hitherto exempt. It is to be -hoped, that when any one for the future talks about the -Beard being a <i>foreign</i> fashion, he will be reminded that -it is a good old English natural fashion, and that the -present custom of shaving was borrowed from France, at -a time when we had no credit to borrow anything else, -seeing that king, courtiers, and patriots, were all the pensioned -dependents of the French monarch! The sooner -therefore we cease to shave, the sooner shall we wipe out -the remembrance of a disgraceful period of our history!</p> - -<p class='c009'>One amusing proof that the Beard continued to be worn -by the country people after its decline about the court, is -afforded by an anecdote of the notorious Judge Jeffries, -who, in his browbeating way, thus addressed a party before -him. “If your conscience be as large as your Beard, fellow! -it must be a swinging one.” To which the witness -replied, “If consciences be measured by Beards, I am -afraid your lordship has none at all.”</p> - -<p class='c009'>In 1700, Charles V ascended the throne of Spain, with -a smooth chin; and his example was gradually followed, -though the popular feeling has been condensed into the -proverb—“Since we have lost our Beards, we have lost -our souls;” and no one can question that loss of Beard -and empire in that country have singularly coincided.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Two brief anecdotes will shew the sense of honor which -formerly resided in Spanish and Portuguese Beards.</p> - -<p class='c009'>Cid Rai Diaz dying, a spiteful Jew stole into the room -to do what he durst not when Diaz was alive—pluck the -noble Spaniard’s Beard! As he stooped for the purpose, -the body started up and drew the sword lying in state by -its side. The Jew fled horror-struck; the corpse smiled -grimly, and resumed its repose; and the Jew turned -Christian.</p> - -<p class='c009'>When the brave John de Castro had taken the Indian -fortress of Dieu, being in want of supplies, he pledged -one of his moustaches for a thousand pistoles, saying “all -the gold in the world cannot equal the value of this natural -ornament of my valour.” The inhabitants of Goa, -especially the ladies, were so struck with this magnaminous -sacrifice, that they raised the money and redeemed the -pledge.</p> - -<p class='c009'>The last European nation to lay aside the Beard was -the Russian, in whose ancient code it was enacted that -whoever plucks hair from another’s Beard shall be fined -four times as much as for cutting off a finger. Peter the -Great, (who always remained a semi-savage), like many -other half-informed reformers, sought to accomplish his -objects by arbitrary measures rather than by moral persuasion. -Having, when in the west, seen unbearded faces, -he jumped to the conclusion that absence of Beard was a -necessary part of civilization; forgetting that a shaven -savage is a savage still. He therefore ordered all his -subjects to shave, imposing a tax of one hundred roubles -on all nobles, gentlemen, tradesmen, and artizans, and a -copeck on the lower classes. Great commotions were the -result; but Peter was obstinate and made a crusade with -scissors and razor, much resembling a Franco-African -Razzia, which you know means a clean shave of everything -with very dirty hands! Some, to avoid disgrace, -parted with their Beards voluntarily, but all preserved the -hairs to be buried in their coffins; the more superstitious -believing that unless they could present theirs to St. -Nicholas, he would refuse them admission to heaven as -Beardless Christians.</p> - -<p class='c009'>One of the most difficult tasks was to deal with the -army; in this, Peter proceeded with characteristic cunning. -Through the agency of the priests, the soldiers were told -that they were going to fight the Turks, who wore Beards, -and that their patron saint St. Nicholas would not be able -to protect his beloved Russians, unless they consented to -distinguish themselves by removing their Beards! You see -how stale are the Czar’s late tricks! Convinced by this -pious fraud, the credulous soldiers obeyed the imperial -mandate. The next war, however, was against the Swedes, -and the soldiers, who had suffered severely from shaving, -turned the tables upon the priests, and said, “the Swedes -have no Beards, we must therefore let ours grow again, -lest, as you say, the holy Nicholas should not know us!”</p> - -<p class='c009'>It is a note-worthy historical fact, which shews the -danger arising from discarding the natural for the artificial, -that as <i>Beards died out, false hair came in</i>. A mountain -of womanish curls rested on the head, and was made to -fall in effeminate ringlets over neck and shoulders, while -the whole face was kept as smooth, and smug, and characterless -as razor could make it. This renders it so disagreeable -a task to look through a series of Kneller’s portraits, -who, clever as he was, could not impart the freedom and -vigour of nature to this absurd fashion. A portrait of -Addison,<a id='r37' /><a href='#f37' class='c012'><sup>[37]</sup></a> was shewn as an illustration, because, as has -been seen, though he complied with the mode, he was -occasionally favored with visions of better times, past and -to come.<a id='r38' /><a href='#f38' class='c012'><sup>[38]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>To the reign of false curls, succeeded that still more -egregious outrage—that climax of coxcombry—powder, -pomatum, and pigtails! The former to give the snows of -age to the ruddy face of youth; the latter being, I suppose, -an attempt of some bright genius to outdo nature,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>By hanging a stiff black tail behind,</div> - <div class='line'>Instead of a flowing beard before,</div> - <div class='line'>As if, by this ensign, the world to remind,</div> - <div class='line'>How wise it had grown since old father Noah.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>This was the period when every breeze was a Zephyr, -every maid a Chlöe, every woman a Venus, and every fat -squinting child a Cupid! Later German critics even christen -the writers of this school, “the Pigtail Poets.”<a id='r39' /><a href='#f39' class='c012'><sup>[39]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>The first French Revolution made an end of all this -trumpery, and though Alison and other professed historians -have not classed the event among the good things -flowing from that fearful flood of blood and blasphemy, -it was not one of the least, and society cannot rejoice too -much at being delivered from the example of systematic -frippery, frivolity, and tricked-out vice of the later French -Sovereigns, imitated as they were by most of the petty -puppet Princes of Germany—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Each lesser ape in his small way,</div> - <div class='line'>Playing his antics like the greater.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>About the rise of the first Napoleon to power, a more -simple, severe, and classic taste, was beginning to prevail, -and this dictated a return to the Beard. Under the -military despotism, however, of that Emperor, moustaches -were forbidden to civilians, and the Beard restrained to -that petty, hairy imitation of a reversed triangle—called -after its reviver, who never personally wore it—the <i>imperial</i>, -as if to denote to the people that they were to -have the smallest possible share in the <i>empire</i>.</p> - -<p class='c009'>With every attempt at freedom on the Continent, the -Beard re-appears; it was one of the most effective standards -in the war of freedom, when Germany rose against -Napoleon. In 1830, it was partially revived in France, -and later still it has made many a perjured continental -monarch<a id='r40' /><a href='#f40' class='c012'><sup>[40]</sup></a> “quake and tremble in his capital,” and reminded -him that in spite of neglected promises and false -oaths, the reign of injustice “hangs but on a hair,” of -which the police will not always be able to check the free -growth.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I have now merely to notice very briefly, four modern -objections to the Beard.</p> - -<p class='c009'>I. “<i>That it is less cleanly than shaving.</i>” To this, the -answer is, that depends upon the wearer; and it will take -less time to keep clean, than to shave, especially where, as -in England, every one washes the face more than once a -day. Besides, if this were an argument, we had better -shave the head and eyebrows as well.</p> - -<p class='c009'>II. “<i>That it would take as much time to keep the -Beard in order, as to shave.</i>” Supposing even it did, still -there is a most important difference both in the two operations -and in their results. For the process of combing -and brushing the Beard, instead of being tedious, uncertain, -and often painful, like shaving,<a id='r41' /><a href='#f41' class='c012'><sup>[41]</sup></a> confers a positively -delightful sensation, similar to that which one may imagine -a cat to experience,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When smoothing gently down its fur,</div> - <div class='line'>It answers with a purr, purr, purr;</div> - <div class='line'>And in its drooping half-shut eye,</div> - <div class='line'>A dreamy pleasure we espy.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>And while the result of shaving is a mere negation, depriving -us of a natural protection, and exposing us to disease, -the other process, consume what time we will, is natural -and instinctive, and attended with the satisfaction of adding -the grace of neatness to nature’s stamp of man’s nobility.</p> - -<p class='c009'>III. “<i>That the ladies dont like it!</i>” This Professor -Burdach and Dr. Elliotson, pronounce a foul libel.<a id='r42' /><a href='#f42' class='c012'><sup>[42]</sup></a> -Ladies by their very nature like every thing manly; and -though from custom the Beard may at first sight have a -strange look, they will soon be reconciled to it, and think, -with Beatrice, that a man without, “<i>is only fit to be their -waiting gentlewoman</i>.”<a id='r43' /><a href='#f43' class='c012'><sup>[43]</sup></a> I have already mentioned one -instance of a queen despising her husband, because he -was priest-ridden enough to shave; and here I present you -with a second in this veritable portrait (shewing it) of a -painter in the reign of George I, of the name of Liotard, -who having returned from his travels in the East, with this -fine flow of curling comeliness, was irresistible. He followed -his fate, and married, but then, alas, unhappy wretch! -took one day the whim to shave off his Eastern glory. -Directly his wife saw him, the charm of that ideal which -every true woman forms of her lover, was broken; for -instead of a dignified manly countenance, her eyes fell -upon a small pinched face, with nose celestial and mouth -most animally terrestial,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>And such a little perking chin,</div> - <div class='line'>To kiss it seemed almost a sin!</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>IV. “<i>That a Beard may be very comfortable in Winter -but too hot in Summer!</i>” The better races of the sons -of torrid Africa wear Beards, as did the ancient Numidians, -and Tyro-African Carthaginians before them. The Arab -in the arid parching desert cherishes his! Are we afraid of -being warmer than these in an English Summer? Besides, -as we have already shewn, the Beard is a non-conductor of -heat as well as cold.<a id='r44' /><a href='#f44' class='c012'><sup>[44]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c009'>Having now, ladies and gentlemen, offered proofs that -the Beard is a natural feature of the male face, and designed -by Providence for distinction, protection, and ornament, -and shewn you historically, that while there was -never any sufficient reason alleged for leaving it off, unless -a heaven condemned superstition, or the capricious dictates -of fops and profligates, afford to any sound mind reasonable -motives of action, need I ask you not to oppose the efforts -of those who, reverencing the Creator’s laws as above the -dictates of man, conceive themselves justified in returning -to the more natural course. On our part we will, notwithstanding -all that we have said, freely allow any one to -continue the practice of shaving, who will be content with -the same plea as a certain Duke de Brissac, who was often -overheard uttering the following soliloquy while adjusting -his razor to the proper angle. “Timoleon de Cosse, God -hath made thee a Gentleman, and the King hath made -thee a Duke; it is right and fit, however, that thou -shouldst have something to do, therefore thou shalt shave -thyself!”</p> -<hr class='c019' /> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>HADDOCK, (LATE PAWSEY,) PRINTER, IPSWICH.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i041.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c006'>Footnotes.</h2> -</div> -<hr class='c020' /> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f1'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. </span>Vide Hassell’s Microscopic Anatomy. Haller says “Withof -calculated that the hair of the Beard grows at the rate of 1½ line -in the week, which is 6½ inches in the year, and by the time a man -reaches eighty, 27 feet will have fallen under the edge of the razor.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f2'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. </span>The whiskers of Confucius are said to be preserved as relics -in China.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f3'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. </span>I can from personal experience state, that being subject -when younger to swelling of the upper lip from cold, previous to -entering Switzerland I allowed my moustache to grow. During -six weeks excursion on foot, exposed to all weathers and stopping -for none, being at one moment in warm valleys and a few hours -afterwards at the top of ice-clad mountains, I never felt the least -uncomfortableness about the mouth. When on returning home, -however, I was foolish enough to shave, I paid dearly for the -operation.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f4'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. </span>Elmes says, “The Beard in Art has an ideal character as an -attribute, and distinguished by its undulating curl the Beard of -Jupiter Olympius from that of Jupiter Serapis (who has a longer -and straighter Beard) the lank Beard of Neptune and the river -Gods, from the short and frizzly Beards of Hercules, Ajax, Diomede, -Ulysses, &c.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f5'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. </span>“It is customary to shave the Ottoman Princes as a mark of -subjection to the reigning Sultan; and those who serve in the Seraglio -have their Beards shaven as a sign of servitude, and do not -suffer it to grow till the Sultan has set them at liberty.”—<i>Burder’s -Oriental Customs.</i> Volney says, “At length Ibrahim Bey suffered -Ali his page to let his Beard grow, <i>i.e.</i>, gave him his freedom, for -among the Turks to want the Beard is thought only fit for slaves -and women.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f6'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. </span>Dr. Wolff says, Mahomed Effendi told him “that the Mahomedans -believed that though Noah lived 1000 years, no hair of his -blessed Beard fell off, or became white; while that of the Devil consists -only of one long hair;” and the same Mahomed, wishing to -compliment two midshipmen, “hoped they would some day have -fine long Beards like himself.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f7'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. </span>Niebuhr says, “I once saw, in a caravan, an Arab highly -offended at a man who had accidentally bespattered his Beard. It -was with difficulty he could be appeased, even though the offender -humbly asked his pardon, and kissed his Beard in token of submission.” -Though I avoided breaking the argument by its insertion -under the account of the Jews, it may be interesting to state, that -Moses, in Numbers, orders a man to be considered unclean for -seven days, whose Beard has been defiled in this way: and that -David could scarcely have devised a more efficient means to convince -Achish of his madness, than the expedient he adopted of -allowing his saliva to descend upon his Beard.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f8'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. </span>It used to be considered one of the almost impossible feats of -Chivalry to pluck a hair from the Sultan’s Beard.—(May the Russians -find it quite so!) The romance of Oberon is founded on this -notion, and Shakspeare makes Benedict say in a spirit of bravado, -“I’ll fetch you a hair off the great Cham’s Beard.” (<i>i.e.</i> Khan of -Tartary’s Beard.)</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f9'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. </span>The Rev. John More, of Norwich, a worthy clergyman in -Elizabeth’s reign, who is said to have had the longest and largest -Beard of any Englishman of his time, seems to have chosen this -Spartan for his model; since when asked to give a reason for it he -replied, “that no act of his life might be unworthy of the gravity -of his appearance.” And Baudinus, quoted by Pagenstecher, says, -Frederick Taubman, the celebrated German wit, humourist, and -theologian, being asked the same question answered, “in order that -whenever I behold these hairs, I may remember that I am no vile -coward or old woman, but a man, called Frederick Taubman.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f10'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. </span>That the Beard, however, sometimes afforded a handle to an -enemy in ancient times, when swords, especially the Greek, were -very short, is admitted. And I possess an engraving from one of -Raphael’s Vatican Cartoons, where one soldier is represented in the -act of cutting down another whom he has seized by the Beard. -He must be a poor master of his weapon, however, who in modern -times would allow a man to grasp his Beard without being hewn -down or run through in the process.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f11'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. </span>Suetonius says, “he was excessively nice about his body, -that he was not only sheered and shaved, but plucked.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f12'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. </span>Besides shaving, the Romans as they progressed in luxurious -effeminacy, used depilatories, tweezers and all sorts of contrivances -to make themselves as little like men and as much like women as -possible; and their satirists abound with passages impossible to -quote with decency on the causes and consequences of this abrogation -of the distinctive peculiarities of the two sexes.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f13'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. </span>Pagenstecher says, “one of the Emperors of Rome refused to -admit to an audience certain Ambassadors of the Veneti, because -they had no Beards.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f14'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. </span>The branch of the Roman family to which Nero belonged -was called Enobarbus, copper-coloured or red Beard; and the -legend of the family was, that the Dioscuri announced to one of -their ancestors a victory, and to confirm the truth of what was said, -stroked his black hair and Beard, and turned them red. Cn. -Domitius, who was Censor with L. Crassus the orator, “took” says -Pagenstecher, “too much pride in his,” and Crassus fired away the -following epigram upon it. “Quid mirum si barbam habet aeneam -Domitius cum et os ferreum et cor habet plumbeum.” (Where’s -the wonder Domitius has a brazen Beard, when he has bones of -iron and a heart of lead.) Shakspeare (the <i>unlearned</i>!) who never -loses a characteristic, makes his Enobarbus, (who was great grandfather -of Nero, wore a Beard, as seen on his medals, and was a fine -bold warrior,) speak thus of Antony, under the fascination of -Cleopatra:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Lep.</span> “Good Enobarbus, ’Tis a worthy deed,</div> - <div class='line in5'>And shall become you well, to entreat your Captain</div> - <div class='line in5'>To soft and gentle speech.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Enob.</span> “I shall entreat him</div> - <div class='line in6'>To answer like himself: if Cæsar move him,</div> - <div class='line in6'>Let Antony look over Cæsar’s head,</div> - <div class='line in6'>And speak as loud as Mars. <i>By Jupiter,</i></div> - <div class='line in6'><i>Were I the wearer of Antonius’ Beard,</i></div> - <div class='line in6'><i>I would not shave’t to-day.</i>”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>This passage evidently associates the Beard with manly determination, -and shaving with the want of it, for subsequently Enobarbus -speaks of Antony’s effeminacy in these words:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in6'>“Our courteous Antony,</div> - <div class='line'>Whom ne’er the word of No woman heard speak,</div> - <div class='line'><i>Being barber’d ten times o’er</i>, goes to the feast,</div> - <div class='line'>And for his ordinary pays his heart</div> - <div class='line'>For what his eyes eat only.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f15'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. </span>Arcite in Chaucer’s Knight’s Tale thus devotes his Beard to -Mars:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“And eke to this avow I wol me bind,</div> - <div class='line in1'>My Berd, my here that hangeth low adoun,</div> - <div class='line in1'>That never yet felt non offensioun</div> - <div class='line in1'>Of rasour, ne of shere, I wol thee yeve.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f16'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. </span>The Goths and Dacians, as seen on the Roman monuments, -were Bearded; and the ancient Hungarians, Raumer states, wore -long Beards adorned with gold and jewels. The Catti also were -accustomed not to trim the hair of the head or Beard till they had -proved their manliness by slaying an enemy in battle.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f17'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. </span>One of the Legends of King Arthur mentions a giant who -made “a great exhibition of domestic manufacture,” consisting of a -“cloak fringed with the Beards of kings.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f18'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. </span>Many princes have borne the title of Bearded—as the Greek -Emperor Constantine Pogonatus, Count Godfrey, the Emperor -Barbarossa, and Eberhard Duke of Wirtemberg in the reign of -Maximilian, whose wisdom might truly be said to have grown with -his Beard, and on whom the following verse was made:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Hic situs est cui <i>barba</i> dedit cognomina Princeps,</div> - <div class='line'>Princeps Teutonici gloria magna soli.”</div> - <div class='line'>(Here is a Prince whose Beard gave his surname,</div> - <div class='line'>A Prince the glory of the land Almayne.)</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f19'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. </span></p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rothbart nie gut wart</div> - <div class='line'>Rothbart Schelmen art.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f20'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. </span>Judas der Ertz. Schelm.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f21'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. </span>A writer in Dickens’ Household Words says Pope Anacletus, -(query 1st or 2nd) was the first who introduced the custom of shaving.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f22'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. </span>In this and in other places I am obliged to leave under a veil -of obscure allusion, arguments of thrilling force, not only from -ancient but from our own history: matters not to be met with in -ordinary histories; but too abundant in the pages of satirists and -moralists, who were hardy enough to lash the prevalent follies and -vices of the times in which they lived.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f23'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. </span>I trust my honest and uncompromising brother Beard will -pardon the liberty I have taken with his name. No one can be a -more sincere admirer than myself of the manly way in which he -maintains his opinions on all occasions, and the humorous kindness -of disposition which renders him beloved in private and in public. -I should always esteem him as a public man, were it only for his -long and single-handed fight against that economical iniquity—that -suicidal tax on prudence and foresight, and bounty on improvidence—the -Fire Insurance Duty!</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f24'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. </span>“She had,” says D’Israeli, “for her marriage dower the rich -province of Poitou and Guyenne; and this was the origin of those -wars which for 300 years ravaged France, and cost the French three -million of men. All which probably had never occurred had Louis -VII not been so rash as to crop his head and shave his Beard, by -which he became so disgustful in the eyes of our Queen Eleanor.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f25'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. </span>No true Scotchman would pardon me if I omitted to note -that the brave Wallace had “a most brave Beard.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f26'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. </span>Southey in “The Doctor” mentions the Beard of Dominico -d’Ancona, as the crown or King of Beards,</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>A Beard the most singular</div> - <div class='line'>Man ever described in verse or prose;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>and of which Berni says, “that the Barber ought to have felt less -reluctance in cutting the said Dominico’s throat, than in cutting -off so incomparable a Beard.” But Southey is outdone by a story -told by Dr. Ehle in his work on the hair, where mention is made -of two seven-foot giants with Beards down to their toes, at the -court of one of the German sovereigns. They both fell in love -with the same woman, and their master decided that whichever -should succeed in putting his rival into a sack, should have the -maiden. One of them sacked the other after a long duel before -the whole court, and married the girl. That the pair lived happily -afterwards, as the Novelists say, is proved by their having as many -signs of affection as there are in the Zodiac; and it is worthy of -remark, both physiologically and astrologically, that the whole -twelve were born under one sign, Gemini.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f27'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. </span>It surely will not be denied by any Judge of taste, that the -Chancellor and other legal dignitaries would look more dignified -in their own hair and with Beards of “reverend grey,” than in the -present absurd, fantastic, unnatural and unbecoming frosted ivy -bushes, with a black crow’s nest in the centre, in which Minerva -might more readily mistake them for stray specimens of her favorite -bird, the owl, than for learned, intelligent, and logical “sages of -the law.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f28'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. </span>Although an attempt was made in this reign to restrain the -growth of legal Beards by some pragmatical heads of Lincoln’s Inn, -who passed a resolution “that no fellow of that house should wear -a Beard of above a fortnight’s growth;” and although transgression -was punished with fine, loss of commons, and final expulsion, such -was the vigorous resistance to this act of tyranny, that in the following -year all previous orders respecting Beards were repealed. <i>Percy -Anecdotes.</i></p> - -<p class='c022'>About the same time also in Germany the moustache was partially -substituted for the Beard, as appears by Berckemej’s Europ. -Antiq. p. 294, who under the year 1564 says, the Archbishop Sigismund -introduced in Magdeburgh the custom of shaving off the full -Beard and wearing instead a moustache. The year in which this -Beard-reformation (de-formation?) happened, was contained in this -pentameter—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Longa sIgIsMVnDo barba IVbente perIt.”</div> - <div class='line'>“Sigismund commanding, the long Beard perished in</div> - <div class='line in1'>MDLVV (= X) IIII. or 1564.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f29'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. </span>Pagenstecher asks “which was the city where Beard and foot made the magistrate?” -and then proceeds gravely to relate that the inhabitants of Hardenberg had -formerly the singular custom of electing their mayors or burgomasters by assembling -at a round table, where while some of the town council were employed in inspecting -their Beards, others were engaged in estimating their feet—the biggest -Beard and largest foot being “called to the scarlet.” And rightly too! for the Beard -denoted authority and wisdom, and the large foot an understanding likely to take -grave steps when needed. As containing a valuable hint to modern corporations to -look well to the essential points of a mayor—too often overlooked—I trust, this note -upon note will be pardoned.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f30'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. </span>“Quip for an Upstart Courtier.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f31'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. </span>A Ben Jonson, among other allusions to the Beard, has the following:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>I am heartily grieved a Beard of your grave length</div> - <div class='line'>Should be so over-reach’d. (“The Fox.”)</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c018'>In his Alchemist <i>Subtle</i> telling <i>Drugger’s</i> fortune says—</p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in6'>——“This summer</div> - <div class='line'>He will be of the clothing of his company,</div> - <div class='line'>And next spring called to the scarlet.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Face.</span> <i>What and so little Beard!</i><a id='r32' /><a href='#f32' class='c012'><sup>[32]</sup></a></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f32'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. </span>Lilly in one of his Dramas makes a Barber say to his customer, -“How, sir, will you be trimmed? Will you have a Beard -like a spade or a bodkin? A penthouse on your upper lip or an -ally on your chin? Your moustaches sharp at the ends like shoemaker’s -awls, or hanging down to your mouth like goat’s flakes?”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f33'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. </span>“In this reign, whiskers however attained to a high degree of -favour at the expense of the expiring Beard, and continued so -under Louis XIV, who, with all the great men of his court, took a -great pride in wearing them. In those days of gallantry, it was no -uncommon thing for a lover to have his whiskers turned up, combed -and pomatumed by his mistress; and a man of fashion was always -provided with every necessary article for this purpose, especially -whisker wax.” <i>Percy Anecdotes.</i></p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f34'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. </span>D’Israeli quotes an author of this reign, who in his “Elements -of Education” says, “I have a favourable opinion of that young -gentleman who is <i>curious in fine moustachios</i>. The time he employs -in adjusting, dressing and curling them, is no lost time; <i>for the -more he contemplates his moustachios, the more his mind will cherish -and be animated by masculine and courageous notions</i>.”</p> - -<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also states, that the grandfather of Mrs. Thomas, the -“Corinna of Dryden,” was very nice in the mode of that age, his -valet being some hours every morning in <i>starching his Beard and -curling his whiskers</i>, during which time he was always read to.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f35'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. </span>Taylor, the Water Poet, who lived from the end of Elizabeth -to nearly the end of the Commonwealth, thus humorously describes -the various fashions of this appendage.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Now a few lines to paper I will put,</div> - <div class='line'>Of men’s Beards strange and variable cut,</div> - <div class='line'>In which there’s some that take as vain a pride,</div> - <div class='line'>As almost in all other things beside:</div> - <div class='line'>Some are reaped most substantial like a brush,</div> - <div class='line'>Which makes a natural wit known by the bush;</div> - <div class='line'>And in my time of some men I have heard,</div> - <div class='line'>Whose wisdom hath been only wealth and Beard:</div> - <div class='line'>Many of these the proverb well doth fit,</div> - <div class='line'>Which says <i>bush</i> natural more hair than wit:</div> - <div class='line'>Some seem as they were starched stiff and fine,</div> - <div class='line'>Like to the bristles of some angry swine;</div> - <div class='line'>And some, to set their loves’ desire on edge,</div> - <div class='line'>Are cut and prun’d like to a quickset hedge.</div> - <div class='line'>Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,</div> - <div class='line'>Some round, some mow’d like stubble, some stark bare,</div> - <div class='line'>Some sharp, stiletto-fashion,<a id='r36' /><a href='#f36' class='c012'><sup>[36]</sup></a> dagger-like,</div> - <div class='line'>That may, with whispering, a man’s eyes outpike.</div> - <div class='line'>Some with the hammer cut or Roman T,</div> - <div class='line'>Their Beards extravagant reform’d must be;</div> - <div class='line'>Some with the quadrate, some triangle-fashion,</div> - <div class='line'>Some circular, some oval in translation;</div> - <div class='line'>Some perpendicular in longitude,</div> - <div class='line'>Some like a thicket for their crassitude.</div> - <div class='line'>The heighths, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,</div> - <div class='line'>And rules geometrical in Beards are found.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f36'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. </span></p> -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“The stiletto Beard</div> - <div class='line in1'>It makes me afeard</div> - <div class='line in1'>It is so sharp beneath:</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in1'>For he that doth wear</div> - <div class='line in1'>A dagger in his face,</div> - <div class='line in1'>What must he wear in his sheath.”</div> - <div class='c023'><i>Old Author.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c016'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Who make sharp Beards and little breeches Deities.”</div> - <div class='c023'><i>Beaumont and Fletcher.</i></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f37'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. </span>I cannot refrain from alluding in a note to a curious fact. -On the day this Lecture was given, a little boy was brought to look -at the portraits just after they were hung. I said to him, “Edward, -which face do you like best?” He instantly touched the portrait of -Addison, and said, “that’s the best woman,” and “that’s the best -man!” pointing to the well-bearded face of Leonardo da Vinci.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f38'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. </span>That Southey had the same compunctious visitings as Addison, -appears clearly enough, for while in his Doctor he compares -“shaving at home” with “slavery abroad;” states that “a good -razor is more difficult to meet with, than a good wife;” denounces -the practice “as preposterous and irrational,” as “troublesome, inconvenient,” -and attended with “discomfort, especially in frosty -weather and March winds;” places it on an equality with the curse -pronounced on Eve; and concludes with the opinion that “if the -daily shavings of one year could be put into one shave, the operation -would be more than flesh and blood could bear;” he has -nothing to say in favour of shaving, but that it encourages -Barbers, compels the shaver to some moments of calm thought -and reflection, and enables him to draw lessons from the looking -glass that nobody with razor in hand ever thought of. These words -in another place give a key to his real opinion. “If I wore a -Beard,” he writes, “I would cherish it as the Cid Campeador did -his, for my pleasure. I would regale it on a Summer’s day with -rose-water, and without making it an idol, I should sometimes offer -incense to it with a pastille, or with lavender and sugar. My children, -when they were young enough for such blandishments, would -have delighted to comb and stroke and curl it, and my grandchildren -in their time would have succeeded to the same course of -mutual endearment.”</p> - -<p class='c022'>See also Leigh Hunt’s humourous paper on Lie-abeds in the -Indicator, where he calls “shaving a villainous and unnecessary -custom.”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f39'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. </span>Seume, a German poet of a better school, in his travels says, -“To-day I threw my powder apparatus out of window, when will the -day come that I can send my shaving apparatus after it!”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f40'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. </span>One hardly knows which is the most detestable, the canting -hypocrisy of Prussian constitutional pretence,—the more open poltroonery -of Neapolitan despotism—or the paternal care to prevent -even the buddings of free thought as in Austria, where I can state -from my own knowledge that Schiller’s works were seized as contraband -on the Hungarian frontier, and a party in the Austrian service -who had attempted to defend the conduct of the government at a -Table d’Hôte was sent for by the head of the police, and when to -excuse himself he alleged he was speaking for the government, was -replied to—“Young man, the government want no defence—no discussion—and -your wisest course is to be silent!”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f41'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. </span>There is something in the operation of shaving which, besides -its painfulness, ought to make it repulsive to those who do not -shave themselves—such as having the face bedaubed with lather -and rubbed with a brush, which has done the same office for hundreds -of chins. It is amusing to hear a knot of free and independent -Englishmen roaring “Britons never will be slaves;” most of -whom will give their chins to be mown and their noses to be pulled -by any common Barber, and pay him too for the pulling. Even -when the party is a self-shaver, to say nothing of the waste of time, -what a number of petty annoyances and exercises of temper -does it involve! Notwithstanding the boasts of cold water shavers, -depend upon it in rigorous weather most people prefer hot to cold -water, which renders them slaves to their servants; next, razors, -as we know from puff advertisements and our own experience, -are the most uncertain of articles; then there is the state of -the nerves, that even the strongest cannot always control, causing -the unsteady hand to gash and hack the chin, or cover it with -blood from the beheading of those pimply eruptions of which the -razor has been ofttimes the originator.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f42'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. </span>Old Burton in his Anatomy of Melancholy adds his quaint -testimony. “No sooner doth a young man see his sweetheart coming, -than he smugs up himself, pulls up his cloak, ties his garter -points, sets his band and cuffs, sticks his hair, <i>twires his Beard</i>,” &c.</p> - -<p class='c022'>D’Israeli also says, “when the fair sex were accustomed to behold -their lovers with Beards, the sight of a shaved chin excited feelings -of horror and aversion; as much indeed as in this less heroic age -would a gallant whose luxuriant Beard should ‘Stream like a -meteor to the troubled air.’”</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f43'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. </span>The whole dialogue from whence this phrase is taken, is suggestive -of the contempt with which the ladies of Elizabeth and -James the 1st’s time regarded a hairless chin. And there are -numerous passages in our old Dramatists which might be quoted to -the same effect, but that some of the allusions do not square with -modern notions of delicacy.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote c021' id='f44'> -<p class='c022'><span class='label'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. </span>It is scarcely conceivable what strange remarks have been -made to me on the subject of the Beard. One party very gravely -enquired whether I really thought that Adam had a Beard? Another -was remonstrating with me on the first manifestations of my -moustache; against whom I wickedly urged the argumentum ad -feminam—you don’t object to it in the military? when the daughter -naively chimed in, “why you know, Sir, <i>it is natural to them</i>!” -Two or three acute persons, one of them a lawyer, have objected, -“but you have your hair cut!” To which I have replied, “yes! -but I don’t shave it off; and I trim my Beard instead of removing -it. You also pare your nails; but you don’t think of plucking -them out, do you?”</p> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c005' /> -</div> -<p class='c009'> </p> -<div class='tnbox'> - - <ul class='ul_1 c005'> - <li>Transcriber’s Notes: - <ul class='ul_2'> - <li>The footnotes were gathered into one section at the end of the text. - </li> - <li>Some of the text on the title page was illegible, and was omitted. - </li> - <li>Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. - </li> - <li>Typographical errors were silently corrected. - </li> - <li>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant - form was found in this book. - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - -</div> -<p class='c009'> </p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Philosophy of Beards, by Thomas S. 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