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@@ -1,41 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2) - -Author: John Evelyn - -Commentator: Richard Garnett - -Release Date: October 29, 2012 [EBook #41218] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41218 *** [Illustration: _CHARLES I. IN PRISON_ @@ -113,7 +76,7 @@ Charles Austin served the devil, and died rich. Both were clever fellows. Charles was much the cleverer of the two." Thus John Evelyn and Samuel Pepys, the former a perfect model of decorum, the latter a grievous example of indecorum, have respectively left us diaries, of which the -indecorous is to the decorous as a zooelogical garden is to a museum: +indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical garden is to a museum: while the disparity between the testamentary bequests of the two Austins but imperfectly represents the reputation standing to Pepys's account with posterity in comparison with that accruing to his sedate and @@ -164,11 +127,11 @@ real enjoyment of the landscape itself; antiquity is not unappreciated, but modern works impart more real pleasure. Of the philosophical reflections which afterward rose to the mind of Gibbon there is hardly a vestige, and of course Evelyn is at an immeasurable distance from Byron -and De Stael. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude +and De Staël. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude of a cultivated young Englishman in presence of classic and renaissance art with its background of Southern nature. We may register without undue self-complacency a great development of the modern world in the -aesthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of +æsthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of progress. It is interesting to compare with Evelyn's narrative the chapters recording the visit to Italy supposed to have been made at this very period by John Inglesant, who inevitably sees with the eyes of the @@ -214,7 +177,7 @@ Evelyn's memoirs thus possess a value far exceeding the modest measure of worth allowed them by De Quincey: "They are useful as now and then enabling one to fix the date of a particular event, but for little besides." The Diary's direct contribution to historical accuracy is -insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological minutiae, but to the +insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological minutiæ, but to the general progress of moral and political improvement. The editor of 1857 certainly goes too far in asserting that "All that might have been excluded from the range of his opinions, his feelings and sympathies @@ -497,14 +460,14 @@ absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in 1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and, on the 30th of June, 1696, laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed Treasurer, -with a salary of L200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before +with a salary of £200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before he received any part of it. When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, proposing to instruct himself in the art of shipbuilding, he was desirous of having the use of Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the King's dockyard at Deptford. This was conceded; but during his stay he did so much damage -that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of L150 for it. He especially regrets +that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it. He especially regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been thought beyond the reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favorite recreations had been to demolish the hedges by riding through them in a @@ -765,7 +728,7 @@ esteem with his country, that they could have added little to him besides their burden. He was a person of that rare conversation that, upon frequent recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion, or -inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about L4000 per annum, well wooded, +inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about £4000 per annum, well wooded, and full of timber. My mother's name was Eleanor, sole daughter and heiress of John @@ -815,7 +778,7 @@ handsome royalty, fit for the present possessor, my worthy brother, and his noble lady, whose constant liberality gives them title both to the place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet: - _Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos + _Nescio quâ natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui._ I had given me the name of my grandfather, my mother's father, who, @@ -876,13 +839,13 @@ second wife, erected him a pious monument. About this time, was the consecration of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was afterward minister); the building whereof was chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having -the impropriation, gave L20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward +the impropriation, gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward sold the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the building of the church. 1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn my Latin rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very -well remember that general muster previous to the Isle of Rhe's +well remember that general muster previous to the Isle of Rhè's expedition, and that I was one day awakened in the morning with the news of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton, after our disgrace before La Rochelle. And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to @@ -1052,7 +1015,7 @@ After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was the University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor to the library of the College, these books--"_ex dono Johannis Evelyni, -hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, e com. Surriae, +hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, è com. Surriæ, armig^r_."-- "_Zanchii Opera_," vols. 1, 2, 3. @@ -1171,7 +1134,7 @@ new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-court), being a very handsome apartment just over against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much contribute to the love of that impolished study, to which (I suppose) my -father had designed me, when he paid L145 to purchase our present lives, +father had designed me, when he paid £145 to purchase our present lives, and assignments afterward. London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent @@ -1368,7 +1331,7 @@ public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They showed us his house, or rather the mean cottage, wherein he was born, over which there are extant these lines, in capital letters: - AEDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS + ÆDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS ARTIBUS INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE. The 26th of July I passed by a straight and commodious river through @@ -1874,7 +1837,7 @@ in the girdle set with very fair and rich sapphires, and divers other stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of architecture: the pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and rare pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive tables and -relics. Hence, to the Vrou Kirk, or Notre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very +relics. Hence, to the Vroù Kirk, or Nôtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, which I ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent; which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly bright, and @@ -1905,7 +1868,7 @@ Senate-house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent building. 5th October, 1641. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided into four classes, with several inscriptions over each: as, first, _Ad majorem Dei -gloriam_; over the second, _Princeps diligentiae_; the third, _Imperator +gloriam_; over the second, _Princeps diligentiæ_; the third, _Imperator Byzantiorum_; over the fourth and uppermost, _Imperator Romanorum_. Under these, the scholars and pupils and their places, or forms with titles and priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings @@ -2351,7 +2314,7 @@ with the French king. 5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary: I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsieur -de Bassompiere, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, +de Bassompière, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French king, and the @@ -2381,14 +2344,14 @@ whose statue it represents. The place where it is erected is inclosed with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du -Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on +Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very rare dial of several motions, with a chime, etc. The water is conveyed by huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there -are, as that of Notre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, +are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of wood, having likewise a water house in the midst of it, and a statue of @@ -2401,7 +2364,7 @@ they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more hereafter) are very regular. -The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honore, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. +The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are @@ -2412,7 +2375,7 @@ some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London. -On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Notre Dame, erected by +On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre Dame, erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in the church round about the choir, without comprehending the chapels, @@ -2528,7 +2491,7 @@ converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable palaces. -The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of great devotion, dedicated to +The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons @@ -2538,15 +2501,15 @@ noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as that on the Pont Neuf. -The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honore, is an excellent -foundation; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, near Notre -Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charite +The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honoré, is an excellent +foundation; but above all is the Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre +Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great success, -yearly in May. The two Chatelets (supposed to have been built by Julius -Caesar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong +yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to have been built by Julius +Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent. 8th February, 1644. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine @@ -2577,7 +2540,7 @@ cornices, moldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several colored marbles, have been of great expense. We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble, -richly fretted and painted _a fresco_. The front looking to the river, +richly fretted and painted _à fresco_. The front looking to the river, though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it. @@ -2660,7 +2623,7 @@ with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer -walls only painted _a fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues +walls only painted _à fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, @@ -2692,7 +2655,7 @@ that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the -Citroniere, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the +Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The sky and hills, @@ -2945,7 +2908,7 @@ by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden. The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the Reformed a church. -The Cathedral Notre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; +The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous bell so much @@ -2963,7 +2926,7 @@ offerings. Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another goodly church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls -and chambers, especially La Chambre Doree. The town-house is also well +and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city. @@ -3017,18 +2980,18 @@ but plain sepulcher, is this inscription: "Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno - 1562 vesano haereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem + 1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a^o D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne - de Bailhache Assaetorii proto priore. D.D." + de Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D." On the other side are these monkish rhymes: "Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, - Et Cenomanensis virtute coercuit ensis, + Et Cenomanensis virtute coërcuit ensis, Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. - Rex magnus parva jacet hac Gulielm' in Urna, + Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ, Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hic obiit." @@ -3186,8 +3149,8 @@ caused to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil. 6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,[18] which she requested of me, and went to see divers of the fairest palaces -of the town, as that of Vendome, very large and stately; Lougueville; -Guise; Conde; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris +of the town, as that of Vendôme, very large and stately; Lougueville; +Guise; Condé; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris toward the river. [Footnote 18: In the first and second editions of the "Diary" many @@ -3239,7 +3202,7 @@ Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This -disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevot +disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would take cognizance of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this @@ -3264,13 +3227,13 @@ besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedestal full of inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it were) from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross -are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos a contagione, labis et -aeternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes +are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos á contagione, labis et +æternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. -f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum -est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memoria haec -nostrae fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of +f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ liberavit. A Domino factum +est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc +nostræ fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's cup bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the King any of @@ -3326,8 +3289,8 @@ entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as large as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these words: "Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, - Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu; - Felix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis! + Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu; + Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis! Gallica non alio principe digna fuit." Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of wolves and @@ -3378,7 +3341,7 @@ in the ancient chapel, viz, a stag's head, or branches, hung up by chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should be artificial they show also the ribs and -vertebrae of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone. +vertebræ of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone. Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village having no houses above ground but such only as are hewn out of the main rocks of excellent @@ -3428,7 +3391,7 @@ fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of the great Cardinal. -25th May, 1644. Was the Fete Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the +25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures in abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of @@ -3449,10 +3412,10 @@ pretty gardens, full of nightingales; and, in the chapel, lies buried the famous poet, Ronsard. Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, -where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis a +where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis à Paula, whose ashes lie in their chapel, with this inscription: "_Corpus -Sancti Fran. a Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur vero ab Haereticis anno -1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hic jacent_." The tomb has four small +Sancti Fran. à Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno +1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent_." The tomb has four small pyramids of marble at each corner. 9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so artificially @@ -3461,7 +3424,7 @@ from end to end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches hanging down in abundance. 20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called -Gouttiere, near Colombiere, where there is a spring within the bowels of +Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is a spring within the bowels of the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, which hangs about it like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and @@ -3474,7 +3437,7 @@ passage cut through the main rock of freestone. 28th June, 1644. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, a sweet place. -30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbe, to +30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbé, to the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from whence the country and river yield a most incomparable prospect. @@ -3533,9 +3496,9 @@ About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, though on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all -sorts of antiquities, especially the Caesars, in oriental alabaster. The +sorts of antiquities, especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder; the roof -with the life of Julius Caesar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing +with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample. The gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excellent @@ -3547,7 +3510,7 @@ weeks' sojourn, we traveled toward the more southern part of France, minding now to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and -now belonging to the Duke de Vendome, standing on a bridge. In the +now belonging to the Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster. @@ -3559,11 +3522,11 @@ day by Murg to Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense; is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. -In the suburbs of St. Prive, there is a fountain of sharp water which +In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well -built _a la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the +built _à la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served six kings of France in their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that @@ -3638,7 +3601,7 @@ beheld the whole city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps, many leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time -to visit, only that of the Charite, or great hospital for poor, infirm +to visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing. The place of the _Belle Cour_ is very spacious, observable for the view @@ -3653,7 +3616,7 @@ Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with the Roman privileges. There are also other antiquities. 30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon -on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphine. This is an +on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog trained to it, @@ -4042,7 +4005,7 @@ Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies buried the learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore -contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Caesar. It is placed, as +contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cæsar. It is placed, as I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns. Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a cupola, @@ -4094,7 +4057,7 @@ where he was to serve a term of years, but from whence they seldom returned; many sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their fortune in this way. -The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _a +The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _á fresco_ on the outer walls, with representations of many of their victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in @@ -4107,7 +4070,7 @@ piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued. 22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of -Signor Baritiere, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were +Signor Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to @@ -4180,7 +4143,7 @@ Correggio, viz, a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads of Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental -columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, +columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cæsar, covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred @@ -4256,7 +4219,7 @@ nurse-children, and several other charitable accommodations. At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are -continually exercised in the _manege_. +continually exercised in the _manège_. Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in a deep walled court, and @@ -4288,7 +4251,7 @@ the renowned Ephesian Temple. These ensigns being the arms of the town, are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far without the city. -The piazza compasses the facciata of the court and chapel, and, being +The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and chapel, and, being made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved, render it @@ -4306,7 +4269,7 @@ After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the University, or rather College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, -Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned AEneas Sylvius; and both +Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas Sylvius; and both were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini. The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius II. has built a @@ -4330,7 +4293,7 @@ so artificially expressed in the natural colors of the marbles, that few pictures exceed it. Here stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the -altar is the library, where are painted the acts of AEneas Sylvius, and +altar is the library, where are painted the acts of Æneas Sylvius, and others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription @@ -4418,8 +4381,8 @@ which precipitates an entire river (which gives it the denomination), with a most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is this inscription: - "_L'Insegna della Posta, e posta a posta, - In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta + "_L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta, + In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta._" Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans, @@ -4464,7 +4427,7 @@ this odd inscription: "_Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi - Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriae + Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriæ monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V._" Under it: @@ -4523,7 +4486,7 @@ upper rooms, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed. -Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscuro, representing the +Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing the fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent of ground backward. The great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, @@ -4614,7 +4577,7 @@ formerly set in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand, is the palace of the Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them), of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico -within, are the statues of Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned +within, are the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand, the thumb @@ -4638,7 +4601,7 @@ In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent -masters, representing the actions of M. Scaevola, Horatius Cocles, etc. +masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, Horatius Cocles, etc. The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or _balduquino_ of crimson velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely @@ -4646,7 +4609,7 @@ painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of brass, with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the -names of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by +names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished with velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In @@ -4701,7 +4664,7 @@ architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the _volto_ -whereof was newly painted _a fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro +whereof was newly painted _á fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of worthy collections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts; but, above all, an @@ -4757,7 +4720,7 @@ There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, and others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many -chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Caesar Baronius, the great +chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cæsar Baronius, the great annalist. Through this, we went into the _sacristia_, where, the tapers being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace, @@ -4788,7 +4751,7 @@ marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area, environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to preserve their oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are -properly called _testae_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous +properly called _testæ_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed through almost all Europe, both in stone and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of @@ -4848,12 +4811,12 @@ Felix_; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an -aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Praeneste, as the +aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Præneste, as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were the -gardens of Sallust. The faciata of this church is noble, the _soffito_ +gardens of Sallust. The facià ta of this church is noble, the _soffito_ within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite work, from whose marble steps you descend under ground to the repository @@ -4940,8 +4903,8 @@ at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of Pius V.; and going out at the further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the portico, is this late inscription: "_Cardinal Antonio Barberino Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, -laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesia, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, -Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani e suis aedibus huc transtulit et +laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, +Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis ædibus huc transtulit et ornavit, 1632_." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the @@ -4951,7 +4914,7 @@ from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, with this epigraph: "_Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem -restitutum Salutiferae Cruci felicius hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, +restitutum Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, Pont. III_"; and so we came weary to our lodgings. At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, in which is a @@ -4970,7 +4933,7 @@ forty-fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many relics, or rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna did next invite us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. -In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _a +In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _á fresco_ on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. @@ -5017,7 +4980,7 @@ palace. That which still appears most admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well deserves this distich of the poet: - "_Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatro; + "_Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro; Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus._" Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, @@ -5118,7 +5081,7 @@ millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise; I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw. Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius -Augustus to Julius Caesar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; +Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, architect to Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire square stone without @@ -5207,7 +5170,7 @@ round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the twelve Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the _volto_, or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses overlaid with gold in -nature of a deep basso-relievo, _a l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in +nature of a deep basso-relievo, _à l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the _internodium_ of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of the Pantheon @@ -5255,15 +5218,15 @@ with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed four exquisite statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica, made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the miraculous _Sudarium_ indued with the picture of our Savior's face, with -this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicae Sudario exceptam ut loci -majestas decenter custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum +this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ Sudario exceptam ut loci +majestas decentèr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit_." Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "_Longini Lanceam quam -Innocentius VIII. a Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. -statua apposita, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium +Innocentius VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. +statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium transtulit_." The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman, St. @@ -5271,9 +5234,9 @@ Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great; the work of Boggi, an excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a great piece of the pretended wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with -this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix e Calvario in -Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissoriana Basilica desumptam, -additis ara et statua, hic in Vaticano collocavit_." +this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix è Calvario in +Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam, +additis arâ et statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit_." The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the @@ -5282,9 +5245,9 @@ is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this: - "_St. Andreae caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportandum + "_St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisque - statuae ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._" + statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._" The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and @@ -5347,7 +5310,7 @@ entering, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his head. Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and -tables, especially those of Cavaliere Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in +tables, especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope @@ -5388,31 +5351,31 @@ many hundred leagues, must needs have been of wonderful bigness and strange fabric. The stone is one and entire, and (having been thrown down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope, Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but -solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciatas: +solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciátas: - _Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum a - patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriae jacentem, trecentorum remigum - impositum navi mirandae vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus + _Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum à + patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum + impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D._ On the second square: - _Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianae fidei Vindex & Assertor - Obeliscum ab AEgyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum + _Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor + Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc conditam eo decoraret monumento._ On the third: - _Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximia temporum - calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; alte demersum, - multa impensa extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, - formaq; pristina accurate vestitum, Cruci invictissimae dicavit anno + _Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum + calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum, + multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, + formà q; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit anno M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII._ On the fourth: - _Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hic Baptizatus Crucis + _Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis gloriam propagavit._ Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately public @@ -5424,14 +5387,14 @@ Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learned by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico: _Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali - Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u] + Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u] Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt; Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto - Nostra quod haec aedes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._ + Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._ It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwelling it seems -hereabouts, on Mons Caelius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately +hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made like large @@ -5440,7 +5403,7 @@ still the great one here preserved, as being that on which (they hold) St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over which it -is painted _a fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by +is painted _á fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns. The _soffito_ is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a tabernacle on it all @@ -5453,7 +5416,7 @@ marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be filled with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those -of the great Connestabile Colonna. Out of this we came into the +of the great Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the _sacristia_, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of the church is a flat stone supported by four pillars which they affirm to have been the exact height of our Blessed Savior, and say they never @@ -5483,7 +5446,7 @@ are some rare paintings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Reni. Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the _tribuna_ are excellent. -Descending the Mons Caelius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo +Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human things does change from the most glorious and magnificent to the most @@ -5497,7 +5460,7 @@ entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden of pot herbs. We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the Chiesa Nova. -21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliero +21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliéro Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique @@ -5512,7 +5475,7 @@ than a diamond. He had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames; also a number of choice designs and drawings. -Hence we walked to the Suburra and AErarium Saturni, where yet remain some +Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, where yet remain some ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro _in vinculis_, one of the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of the seven @@ -5548,9 +5511,9 @@ _cubiculari_ and chamberlains, called _secreti_. Then followed four other _camerieri_ with four caps of the dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, -very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffieri_ and pages; the +very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffiéri_ and pages; the secretaries of the _chancellaria_, _abbreviatori-accoliti_ in their long -robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _roti_ and +robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _rôti_ and master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes, and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on @@ -5697,7 +5660,7 @@ Signor Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but -famous only for the painting _a fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico +famous only for the painting _á fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters designing and copying after it, being esteemed one of the rarest pieces @@ -5723,7 +5686,7 @@ churches, and grots under the whole church (like our St. Faith's under Paul's), in which lie interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor, -St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas a Becket; a shoulder of St. +St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St. Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their wives; too long to particularize. @@ -5748,7 +5711,7 @@ morning. On Christmas-day his Holiness sang mass, the artillery of St. Angelo went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord. 29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner, -being their great feast of Thomas [a Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in +being their great feast of Thomas [à Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by their alumni before the Cardinals. @@ -5830,17 +5793,17 @@ and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of St. Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior. Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapel, called the -Sala del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the +Sà la del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, "_Coligni et sociorum -caedes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_." +cædes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_." There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed: "_Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum - fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et a senatu perhonorifice - susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali praelio victo captoq; + fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè + susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq; Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio restituta MCLXXVIII._"[24] @@ -6002,7 +5965,7 @@ story A^o 440; as is likewise that of the _facciata_. The gates are brass, made at Constantinopole in 1070, as you may read by those Greek verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of -whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Praef. Urbis +whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis V. S. I. reparavit_." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. @@ -6060,7 +6023,7 @@ Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of them looking on her face in a glass, by M. Angelo; the other is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues; -most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Caesars +most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Cæsars and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe @@ -6124,14 +6087,14 @@ very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are: - "_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab Augusto Caesare - extructos, aevi longinqua vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam + "_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto Cæsare + extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V._" And toward the fields: "_Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi - temporis injuria pene diruto, sublimiorem._" + temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem._" * * * * * @@ -6148,7 +6111,7 @@ pass a tower built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the banditti who infest those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still -on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernae_ (whither the brethren came from Rome +on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernæ_ (whither the brethren came from Rome to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work. The country @@ -6199,13 +6162,13 @@ for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches. On another more ancient: - "_Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus + "_Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. - xviii. Silices sua pecunia stravit._" + xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit._" Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then: - "_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Praefect. + "_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect. Classis.--Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, II. vir._" [Sidenote: FONDI] @@ -6220,8 +6183,8 @@ beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive height, stands an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at Fondi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa, and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph -saluted us: "_Hospes, hic sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus -advenis, pacate omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_." +saluted us: "_Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus +advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by most stupendous labor: here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres @@ -6229,10 +6192,10 @@ and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi, we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruit. -29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Caecubus, famous for the generous +29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous for the generous wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange -trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiae], +trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiæ], where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable orator was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was @@ -6277,7 +6240,7 @@ than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives, pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took -leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitano, +leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitáno, their gallant. [Sidenote: NAPLES] @@ -6291,7 +6254,7 @@ The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired a coach to carry us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent -islands, as far as Capreae, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. +islands, as far as Capreæ, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and rareness of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, @@ -6332,7 +6295,7 @@ adorned, the chapel especially, where that Apostle said mass, as is testified on the wall. After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix -that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Bene de me +that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Benè de me scripsisti, Thoma_." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro. @@ -6343,13 +6306,13 @@ wife, children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording, as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "_Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos -hoc in loco ponendum curavit._" +hôc in loco ponendum curavit._" Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect toward the sea and city, the one full of galleys and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, -Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreae, +Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreæ, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister being all @@ -6411,8 +6374,8 @@ mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone, others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the -goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiae, Cuma, Elysian Fields, -Capreae, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a +goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, Elysian Fields, +Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. The mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and @@ -6460,8 +6423,8 @@ this inscription: _Stanisi Cencovius. 1589 - Qui cineres? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim - Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. + Qui cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim + Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. Can Ree MDLIII._[26] [Footnote 26: Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn; @@ -6470,7 +6433,7 @@ this inscription: to subjoin the distich said (by Keysler in his "Travels," ii. 433) to be the only one in the whole mausoleum: - "_Quae cineris tumulo haec vestigia? conditur olim + "_Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces._"] After we were advanced into this noble and altogether wonderful crypt, @@ -6530,8 +6493,8 @@ sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned with stone for the sick to sweat in, the vapors here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a -furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogaei, and the fields -Phlegraen. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. +furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields +Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter of a mile in breadth, the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of whose sides and foot break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a @@ -6618,7 +6581,7 @@ the world had been come. From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the -poet for the gates of hell, by which AEneas made his descent, and where he +poet for the gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and where he sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the river Styx has its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a @@ -6648,19 +6611,19 @@ Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut through the main rock, where the vapors ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many -infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahiae, where once stood that +infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sun shines on, according to that of Horace: - "_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis._" + "_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amoenis._" Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of Venus. Here were those famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish -pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Caesar. +pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Cæsar. Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the monstrous murder of Nero committed on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre @@ -6673,10 +6636,10 @@ stone, and are continually dropping. Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of -AEneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to +Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. -Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Caesar died; and here +Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar died; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we walked to those receptacles of water called _Piscina Mirabilis_, being a @@ -6792,12 +6755,12 @@ admirable pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor three or four water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of -Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _a fresco_, +Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _á fresco_, preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world. 14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endowed -by Cardinal Sfrondaeti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of +by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in snow-white @@ -6811,12 +6774,12 @@ Baths of Septimius Severus. the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here -are the ruins of the Temple of AEsculapius, now converted into a stately +are the ruins of the Temple of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it, -Santa Maria Schola Graeca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to +Santa Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the foot of Mount @@ -6847,7 +6810,7 @@ inserted in the wall, with this inscription: And a little beneath: "_Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. - F. Cla. Melae Heredis et Pothi L._" + F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L._" At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which the three Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, @@ -6856,10 +6819,10 @@ the marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and the stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these baths. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by -Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Navicula, so +Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Naviculâ, so named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a -glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathaei, +glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathæi, which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and @@ -6881,7 +6844,7 @@ entire, now called Capo di Bovo. Hence, to a small oratory, named "_Domine, quo vadis_"; where the tradition is, that our Blessed Savior met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again. -St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciata_ excepted), +St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciáta_ excepted), but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well @@ -6965,7 +6928,7 @@ Spain; the church was hung with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, or funeral oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by -Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciata_, +Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciáta_, too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly been @@ -7037,7 +7000,7 @@ Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole Corso. -22d February, 1645. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monastery of French, a +22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a monastery of French, a noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with the miracles of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French @@ -7063,7 +7026,7 @@ great scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription: "_Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis, Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo._" -Opposite to the _facciatae_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of +Opposite to the _facciátæ_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of one @@ -7175,7 +7138,7 @@ altars, and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the -praetor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading +prætor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired. We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the @@ -7199,7 +7162,7 @@ before of licentious people; all saints alike to appearance. The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix; -a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colosse of +a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile farther, we came to Pons @@ -7232,7 +7195,7 @@ Savior's face) was exposed, and the next day the spear, with a world of ceremony. On Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders -to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coena Domini_, he both curses +to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coenâ Domini_, he both curses and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at Whitehall; they @@ -7275,7 +7238,7 @@ forget the Pope's benediction of the _Gonfalone_, or Standard, and giving the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took -coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterranea, being +coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about twenty paces, which delivered us into a large entry that led us into @@ -7327,7 +7290,7 @@ of the house are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. -In the first hall were the Twelve Caesars, of antique marble, and the +In the first hall were the Twelve Cæsars, of antique marble, and the whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for I often visited this delicious place. @@ -7414,7 +7377,7 @@ where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular -exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Speccho +exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho (looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four sweet and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water, @@ -7430,7 +7393,7 @@ Toward Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious walk, full of fountains, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured _mezzo relievo_. At the end of this, next the wall, is the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing -that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermae, temples, arches, +that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermæ, temples, arches, aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and @@ -7459,7 +7422,7 @@ little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. [Sidenote: ROME] And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were showed, at some -distance, the city Praeneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of +distance, the city Præneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of ruins; and so came late to our lodging. We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except @@ -7513,7 +7476,7 @@ eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and Nicholai, bass. The Jews in Rome wore red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color. -There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotee, who much +There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much solicited for an order of Jesuitesses. At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his cloak and hat for @@ -7575,8 +7538,8 @@ great church built entirely both within and without with white and black marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles, representing the story of both Testaments, admirably wrought. Here lies -Pius II. The biblioteca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life -of AEneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in +Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life +of Æneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's disciplining cell, the door whereof is half cut out into chips by the @@ -7612,7 +7575,7 @@ his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb: Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum. Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum. - Hic genitor Sanctae Wulburgae Virginis almae + Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum._ @@ -7622,7 +7585,7 @@ his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb: Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the -fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at L15,000, above +fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above all venerable for that sacred _volto_ which (as tradition goes) was miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what face to set @@ -7726,7 +7689,7 @@ of this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription, in rubies: - "_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etruriae ex voto._" + "_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto._" There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice, in copper, set up @@ -7989,7 +7952,7 @@ in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place -is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Olaeo once +is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Oläo once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are not many fine @@ -8000,7 +7963,7 @@ having an Angel for its sign. We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets -called Eridanus, where they feign Phaeton to have fallen after his rash +called Eridanus, where they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me in this passage, and afterward did me many kindnesses at Venice. We @@ -8298,7 +8261,7 @@ by reason of their _choppines_; and what dwarfs they appear, when taken down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or the citizens, may not wear _choppines_, but cover their bodies and faces -with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustree, out of which +with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this habit; but go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils hang @@ -8388,13 +8351,13 @@ subscription: "_Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga, Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, - Quem tegit hic humili marmore caesa domus._" + Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus._" Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now come to St. Antony's (the street most of the way straight, well built, and outside excellently painted in _fresco_), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one -Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _a la Greca_, consists of +Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _à la Greca_, consists of five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three @@ -8548,7 +8511,7 @@ a corridor, in manner of a balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all, -the Monte Pieta, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. +the Monte Pietà , the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines @@ -8561,8 +8524,8 @@ great gate are the arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. Mark. _Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies - Patriae Christianaeq; Republicae utilior evadas; ita demum Gymnasium a - te feliciter se ornatum existimabit._ + Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium à + te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit._ CIC.IX. @@ -8683,7 +8646,7 @@ hedgehog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and very perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levity, sponges, and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with innumerable more. In another cabinet, supported by twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about -with crystal, he showed us several noble intaglios of agate, especially a +with crystal, he showed us several noble intáglios of agate, especially a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare cornelians, onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of which was a drop of water not congealed, but moving up and down, when shaken; above all, a diamond @@ -8825,7 +8788,7 @@ I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his confessor, and obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions; without which I was not to travel, in this pompous form: - "_Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le + "_Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Señor Le Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su @@ -8883,7 +8846,7 @@ emulate the best diamonds, rubies, etc., were Marco Terrasso and Gilbert. In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray (son of Sir Christopher, whose father had been in arms against his Majesty, and therefore by no means welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned -man, we got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganean hills, +man, we got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we found growing about them. The ways were something deep, the whole country flat and even as a bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are @@ -8897,12 +8860,12 @@ architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order; those in the three upper corridors are Doric; under them, are shops in a spacious piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler -design, _a la moderne_. The next morning, we visited the theater, as +design, _à la moderne_. The next morning, we visited the theater, as being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and capable of containing 5,000 spectators. The scene, which is all of stone, represents an imperial city, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is -inscribed: "_Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc a +inscribed: "_Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc à fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584_." The scene declines eleven feet, the _soffito_ painted with clouds. To this there joins a spacious hall for solemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the @@ -8980,8 +8943,8 @@ aqueducts, etc., showing still considerable remains in several places of the town, and how magnificent it has formerly been. It has three strong castles and a large and noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, especially the Senate house, where we saw those celebrated statues -of Cornelius Nepos, AEmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having -honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius Caesar Scaliger, +of Cornelius Nepos, Æmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having +honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius Cæsar Scaliger, that prodigy of learning. In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa where are walks @@ -9126,9 +9089,9 @@ it, "_Sepulchrum trium Magorum_." Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing: - "_Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi + "_Imp. Cæsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi Tribi Pot. VII. Impi IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi - Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervae + Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervæ Abnepoti Dec. Dec._" We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of Madonna delle @@ -9154,7 +9117,7 @@ Da Vinci; but these we could not see, the keeper of them being out of town, and he always carrying the keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who had seen them, told me all but one book are small that a huge folio contained 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, etc. But whereas the -inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered L1,000 for +inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered £1,000 for them,--the truth is, and my Lord himself told me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the name and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the @@ -9583,7 +9546,7 @@ morning, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor, he persuaded me to be bled. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said, he had been physician to Gustavus the Great, King of Sweden, when he passed this way into Italy, under the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of -Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciae, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on +Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciæ, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on his returning out of Italy. He afterward acknowledged that he should not have bled me, had he suspected the smallpox, which broke out a day after. He afterward purged me, and applied leeches, and God knows what this @@ -9632,12 +9595,12 @@ marble columns; and, on a table of the same, under the city arms, a demi-eagle and cross, between cross-keys, is a motto, "POST TENEBRAS LUX," and this inscription: - _Quum anno 1535 profligata Romana Anti-Christi Tyrannide, - abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hic - in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei - beneficio reposita, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa + _Quum anno 1535 profligatâ Romanâ Anti-Christi Tyrannide, + abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hìc + in suam puritatem, Ecclesiâ in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei + beneficio repositâ, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; - Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memoriae causa + Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuæ memoriæ causâ fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit._ @@ -9649,13 +9612,13 @@ toward the street: D.O.M.S. - _Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae - restituta, et quasi novo Jubilaeo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et + _Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ + restitutâ, et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum - Primari Tigurini aequo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum + Primari Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti, - beneficii monumentum consecrarunt, anno temporis ultimi_ + beneficii monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi_ CC[~C~].I[~C~].XXXIV. In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were @@ -9700,7 +9663,7 @@ carved with the history of our Blessed Savior. In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen exercise in Mars' Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I -first saw huge ballistae, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they +first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in frames, and had great screws to bend them, doing execution at an incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket, @@ -9715,7 +9678,7 @@ imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden bridges that cross the river are several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient -tower, said to have been built by Julius Caesar. At the end of the other +tower, said to have been built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial. Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile hanging in @@ -9764,7 +9727,7 @@ early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly built. -The next day we passed by La Charite, a pretty town, somewhat distant +The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the Governor's pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great @@ -9874,7 +9837,7 @@ published a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men addressed the Parliament for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South -Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for L3,000. +Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000. 30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first rendezvous was in Broome-field, next my @@ -9882,7 +9845,7 @@ house at Sayes Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Colchester, where was that memorable siege. 27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of -my brother George, for L3,300. +my brother George, for £3,300. 1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. @@ -9912,16 +9875,16 @@ Cliffhouse. 29th November, 1648. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and Lady Gerrard, christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate -which cost me L18, and caused this inscription to be set on it-- +which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it-- IN MEMORIAM FACTI. ANNO CIC IX. XLIIX. CAL. DECEM. VIII. VIRGINUM CASTISS: XTIANORUM - INNOCENTIS: NEPT: SUAVIS: MARIAE. JOHAN. EVELYNUS AVUNCULUS ET + INNOCENTIS: NEPT: SUAVIS: MARIÆ. JOHAN. EVELYNUS AVUNCULUS ET SUSCEPTOR VASCULUM HOC CUM EPIGRAPHE L. M. Q. D. - AVE MARIA GRATIA SIS PLENA; DOMINUS TECUM. + AVE MARIA GRATIÂ SIS PLENA; DOMINUS TECUM. -2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott for L3,400 to one +2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott for £3,400 to one Mr. Bridges. 13th December, 1648. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and @@ -9996,7 +9959,7 @@ VIII., of Holbein; and Francis I., rare indeed, but of whose hand I know not. 16th February, 1649. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de -Conde, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter +Condé, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her: and, on the 22d, having recommended Obadiah Walker, a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel with, Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court. @@ -10173,7 +10136,7 @@ Lord Croftes. 7th September, 1649. Went with my wife and dear Cousin to St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-Mother's hand; dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of the great men of France came to see the King. The next -day, came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris, we went to see the +day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to see the President Maison's palace, built castle-wise, of a milk-white fine freestone; the house not vast, but well contrived, especially the staircase, and the ornaments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry @@ -10188,7 +10151,7 @@ down a whole village to make room for his pleasure about it. chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, preached. -13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince of Conde to supper at +13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince of Condé to supper at St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in the tennis court, where I saw a famous match between Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, and so returned to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a @@ -10285,7 +10248,7 @@ eve of that Apostle's day. chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterward Lord Keeper. -18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of Conde and his brother +18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of Condé and his brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. 6th February, 1650. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro, one of the @@ -10317,7 +10280,7 @@ the Bois de Boulogne and river. Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought some prints; and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape graver. -3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charite I saw the operation of +3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the operation of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years old underwent the operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing great joy when he saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty @@ -10340,7 +10303,7 @@ besieged, and at length forced to submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one -of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Notre +of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nôtre Dame. Several of us were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. Immediately afterward, came Monsieur St. Germain himself, in great wrath, @@ -10564,7 +10527,7 @@ Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor. 6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave -the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charite Hospital. Sir +the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my friends. @@ -10584,7 +10547,7 @@ extraordinary splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheat. 31st December, 1650. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, -near L600 sterling. +near £600 sterling. 1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had @@ -10599,7 +10562,7 @@ childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety. mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel. -9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arret du +9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arrêt du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris. 23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a @@ -10620,9 +10583,9 @@ drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some [Transcriber's note: special symbol for the planet Mercury] of antimony. He had cured Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a -monumental altar that was to cost L1,500. +monumental altar that was to cost £1,500. -11th March, 1651. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where a malefactor +11th March, 1651. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, where a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to @@ -10676,7 +10639,7 @@ admirable; then came a Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration -of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _a l'antique_, but the +of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _à l'antique_, but the habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious. [Footnote 42: The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.] @@ -10791,12 +10754,12 @@ having before him four trumpets habited in black velvet, full of lace, and casques of the same. Then, the King's Light Horse, 200, richly habited, with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before whom rode the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with -pearl. Next went the grand Prevot's company on foot, with the Prevot on +pearl. Next went the grand Prévôt's company on foot, with the Prévôt on horseback; after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-colored satin, after their country fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in his cap a _pennach_ of heron, with a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss boys, with -halberds. Then, came the _Aide des Ceremonies_; next, the grandees of +halberds. Then, came the _Aide des Cérémonies_; next, the grandees of court, governors of places and lieutenants-general of provinces, magnificently habited and mounted; among whom I must not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, @@ -10805,7 +10768,7 @@ very unruly horse, and besides his rich suit his Malta Cross was esteemed at 10,000 crowns. These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as many heralds in blue velvet -_semee_ with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on +_semée_ with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on their heads; behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding splendid; behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, alone, carrying the King's @@ -11017,7 +10980,7 @@ going to England. Germans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais, in an exceedingly hard frost which had continued for some time. We got that night to Beaumont; 30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep -with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; dined at Pois; lay at Pernee, a +with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; dined at Pois; lay at Pernèe, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly unfurnished, but in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, which they told me they hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garrisons near @@ -11184,7 +11147,7 @@ Paris. 30th May, 1652. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my nephew, George, might be brought up with my young Lord, his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of camleting silk and -grograms at one Monsieur La Dorees in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel +grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who had been my schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's safe landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out of France; which he courteously granted, @@ -11201,7 +11164,7 @@ civility. 4th June, 1652. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, which had now been -besieged some time by the Prince of Conde's army in the time of the +besieged some time by the Prince of Condé's army in the time of the rebellion, and after she had been now near twelve years from her own country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. I went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late @@ -11439,7 +11402,7 @@ west. purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glanville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanville (son to Sergeant Glanville, sometime Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends -dining with me. I had bargained for L3,200, but I paid L3,500. +dining with me. I had bargained for £3,200, but I paid £3,500. 25th March, 1653. Came to see me that rare graver in _taille-douce_, Monsieur Richett, he was sent by Cardinal Mazarine to make a collection @@ -11587,7 +11550,7 @@ one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well furnished, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's garden; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances, the -banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and seats were carved _a +banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and seats were carved _à l'antique_; some good pictures in the house, especially one of Vandyke's, being a man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. Ducie's, who has indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of @@ -11635,7 +11598,7 @@ for near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. We passed by Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and river. Thence, to Newbury, a considerable town, and Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and castle, this last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. -Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, built _a la +Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, built _à la moderne_. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of hill, flanked with wood, and regarding the river, and so, at night, to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., uncle to @@ -11646,7 +11609,7 @@ feast and make good cheer, to welcome my wife. bath. Among the rest of the idle diversions of the town, one musician was famous for acting a changeling, which indeed he personated strangely. -The _facciata_ of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical +The _facciáta_ of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. The town is entirely built of stone, but the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. Here, we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who @@ -11840,7 +11803,7 @@ after all, that which renders the seat delightful is, its being so near the downs and noble plains about the country contiguous to it. The stables are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the walks of lime trees, with the court and fountain of the stables adorned -with the Caesars' heads. +with the Cæsars' heads. We returned this evening by the plain, and fourteen-mile race, where out of my lord's hare warren we were entertained with a long course of a hare @@ -11995,7 +11958,7 @@ gilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seems to have been large and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, -situate on the brow of a hill, built _a la moderne_ near a park walled +situate on the brow of a hill, built _à la moderne_ near a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent. Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging to Mr. Heath, son @@ -12140,7 +12103,7 @@ set out on this excursion. sport. 25th August, 1654. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's, -in Northamptonshire, built _a la moderne_; the garden and stables +in Northamptonshire, built _à la moderne_; the garden and stables agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, and the seat naked: returned that evening. @@ -12335,7 +12298,7 @@ to the hand that showed the hour, and giving notice by a small bell, so as in 120 half minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejaculatory spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly adorned) had been presented by some German prince to our late -king, and was now in the possession of the usurper; valued at L200. +king, and was now in the possession of the usurper; valued at £200. 2d March, 1655. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweler, showed me a most rich agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having a figure of Cleopatra at the @@ -12392,7 +12355,7 @@ by a hill. He showed us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many rare pictures, particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus, as big as the life, by Holbein; a Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the skull, -carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered L100; +carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered £100; also Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and other curiosities. @@ -12443,7 +12406,7 @@ late book, which I had lent him. 4, concerning the benefit of self-examination; more learning in SO SHORT A TIME AS AN HOUR I have seldom heard. -17th September, 1655. Received L2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of +17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were so intolerable that they ate up the rents, etc., surcharged as that county had been above all others during our unnatural war. @@ -12588,7 +12551,7 @@ proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they fell to dispute on original sin, in Latin, upon a book newly published by the Doctor, who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned antiquary and herald. Returning, I was shown the three vast volumes of -Father Kircher's, "_Obeliscus Pamphilius_" and "_AEgyptiacus_"; in the +Father Kircher's, "_Obeliscus Pamphilius_" and "_Ægyptiacus_"; in the second volume I found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed it from the stone itself brought me to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell. @@ -12783,7 +12746,7 @@ anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins; also the old Marquis of Argyle, and another Scotch Earl. 5th February, 1657. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's; he told me the -East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock of L400,000 in +East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock of £400,000 in India, and forty-eight men-of-war there: he spoke of their exact and just keeping their books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could possibly be lost, or defeated; that it was a vulgar error that the @@ -12807,7 +12770,7 @@ born in the Caraccas, 1,000 miles south of the equinoctial, near the mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of great courage, of the order of St. Jago, sorely wounded in his arm, and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share -L100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, +£100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went with them to Arundel House, where they dined. They were now going back into Spain, having obtained their liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude! @@ -12956,10 +12919,10 @@ disorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers obliged only by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might pursue their private trade; but it was carried against them. Wednesday was fixed on for a general court for election of officers, after a sermon -and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was L800,000. +and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was £800,000. 27th November, 1657. I took the oath at the East India House, subscribing -L500. +£500. 2d December, 1657. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preached before the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by @@ -13014,7 +12977,7 @@ year, or in that year, not only skill to read most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the irregular; learned out "Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire vocabulary of Latin and French primitives and words, could make congruous -syntax, turn English into Latin, and _vice versa_, construe and prove +syntax, turn English into Latin, and _vice versâ_, construe and prove what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's "_Janua_"; began himself to write @@ -13023,7 +12986,7 @@ could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered of the parts of plays, which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, he asked what book it was, and, being told it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious -application of fables and morals; for he had read AEsop; he had a +application of fables and morals; for he had read Æsop; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing were his applications of @@ -13054,7 +13017,7 @@ which, on occasion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in anything he said or did. The last time he had been at church (which was at Greenwich), I asked him, according to custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two -good things, Father, said he, _bonum gratiae_ and _bonum gloriae_, with a +good things, Father, said he, _bonum gratiæ_ and _bonum gloriæ_, with a just account of what the preacher said. The day before he died, he called to me: and in a more serious manner @@ -13198,7 +13161,7 @@ good, the house old, but convenient. 6th. Returned to Wotton. famous Sir Walter. 14th August, 1658. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged match at -bowls for L10, which we won. +bowls for £10, which we won. 18th August, 1658. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle, in that tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest trees at Sayes Court, and @@ -13529,7 +13492,7 @@ which, if he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the same ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and fear kept him from that blessing and honor. I addressed him to Lord Mordaunt, then in -great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of L1,000, as +great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of £1,000, as I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over to his Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in his hands! @@ -13675,10 +13638,10 @@ undertake the trouble. 4th September, 1660. I was invited to an ordination by the Bishop of Bangor, in Henry VII.'s chapel, Westminster, and afterward saw the -audience of an Envoyee from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his +audience of an Envoyée from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesty's return. -5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyee of the +5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyée of the King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, etc. 7th September, 1660. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his @@ -13687,7 +13650,7 @@ visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that evening. 13th September, 1660. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, monkeys and apes dance, and do other feats of activity on the high rope; they -were gallantly clad _a la monde_, went upright, saluted the company, +were gallantly clad _á la monde_, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their hats; they saluted one another with as good a grace as if instructed by a dancing master; they turned heels over head with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any; also, with lighted @@ -13721,7 +13684,7 @@ Gloucester. This evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. 6th October, 1660. I paid the great tax of poll money, levied for -disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire L10, and one +disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire £10, and one shilling for every servant in my house. 7th October, 1660. There dined with me a French count, with Sir George @@ -13762,7 +13725,7 @@ them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of rarities; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely esteem; also, that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done in enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and -intaglios, especially a medallion of Caesar, as broad as my hand; +intaglios, especially a medallion of Cæsar, as broad as my hand; likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a landscape of needlework, formerly presented by the Dutch to King Charles I. Here I saw a vast book of maps, in a volume near four yards large; a curious ship model; and, @@ -14078,7 +14041,7 @@ chair during the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of Worcester. After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to maintain the -religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The hymn _Veni S. Sp._ +religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The hymn _Véni S. Sp._ followed, and then the Litany by two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of Canterbury, present, but much indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your hearts"; at which, the King rose up, and put off his robes and upper @@ -14259,7 +14222,7 @@ yachts (or pleasure boats), vessels not known among us till the Dutch East India Company presented that curious piece to the King; being very excellent sailing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new pleasure boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of York's; the -wager L100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost +wager £100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost it going, the wind being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty sometimes steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat attended. I brake fast this @@ -14368,7 +14331,7 @@ were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that in but one county; but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs. -16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of "Naudaeus concerning +16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of "Naudæus concerning Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miserably false printed. 17th November, 1661. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the "Florentine @@ -14405,7 +14368,7 @@ Portugal. order was made and registered that I should receive their public thanks for the honorable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society, in my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of -Naudaeus. Too great an honor for a trifle. +Naudæus. Too great an honor for a trifle. 4th December, 1661. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, concerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed a whole ear @@ -14451,9 +14414,9 @@ the young spark who maintained the pageantry. 6th January, 1662. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty opened the revels of that night by throwing the dice himself in the privy -chamber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his L100. (The year -before he won L1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away when -the Duke of Ormond had won about L1,000, and left them still at passage, +chamber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year +before he won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away when +the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, and left them still at passage, cards, etc. At other tables, both there and at the groom-porter's, observing the wicked folly and monstrous excess of passion among some losers; sorry am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess @@ -14613,7 +14576,7 @@ her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of Ormond brought me to kiss her hand. 2d June, 1662. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their addresses to the -Queen, presenting her L1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, +Queen, presenting her £1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, and the Guardadamas, or mother of her maids,[71] and the old knight, a lock of whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on by a thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his Majesty from the @@ -14636,12 +14599,12 @@ harps, and very ill voices. Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as capacious as any Gothic architecture can have made it. There is an incomparable furniture in it, especially hangings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also -many rare pictures, especially the Caesarean Triumphs of Andrea Mantegna, +many rare pictures, especially the Cæsarean Triumphs of Andrea Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's; of the tapestries, I believe the world can show nothing nobler of the kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. The gallery of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, elks, antelopes, etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery of silver on -crimson velvet, and cost L8,000, being a present made by the States of +crimson velvet, and cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of Holland when his Majesty returned, and had formerly been given by them to our King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her again, was now presented to the King. The great looking-glass and toilet, @@ -14666,7 +14629,7 @@ Chalcography" (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society.[72] 19 June, 1662. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, soon after he had procured the Dukedom to be restored. This gentleman had now -compounded a debt of L200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much +compounded a debt of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much obliged to that great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I stayed a fortnight. @@ -14811,7 +14774,7 @@ King-at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, master of the Mint, and several others. 17th September, 1662. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society should be a field argent, with a canton of the arms of England; the supporters two talbots argent; crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like -arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "_Nullius in verba_." It was +arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "_Nullius in verbâ_." It was presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their office for it. @@ -14835,7 +14798,7 @@ pictures of men famous in their faculty. Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotchman, who had lived long at Rome, and was esteemed a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his -Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astraea, the St. Catherine, and a +Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astræa, the St. Catherine, and a chimney-piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch highlander @@ -14843,7 +14806,7 @@ in his plaid. It is in his Majesty's dining room at Windsor. He had at his house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and, above all, those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates and medals, especially a -Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. +Scipio, and a Cæsar's head of gold. 15th October, 1662. I this day delivered my "Discourse concerning Forest Trees" to the Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the @@ -14917,7 +14880,7 @@ to his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached in the Abbey Church; then followed the consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, etc. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent dinners -that in my life I ever saw; it cost near L600 as I was informed. Here +that in my life I ever saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here were the judges, nobility, clergy, and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop being universally beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go under the name of Blount. He @@ -14975,7 +14938,7 @@ said to be Persian; bows and arrows, etc. These borne by so long a train rendered it very extraordinary. Wind music played all the while in the galleries above. This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master of the ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet, -which cost L200, as I was assured. +which cost £200, as I was assured. 7th January, 1663. At night I saw the ball, in which his Majesty danced with several great ladies. @@ -14983,7 +14946,7 @@ with several great ladies. 8th January, 1663. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke's, comedy acted at the Duke's theater, which took so universally, that it was acted for some weeks every day, and it was believed it would be worth to the -comedians L400 or L500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff +comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff and formal. [Sidenote: LONDON] @@ -15007,7 +14970,7 @@ the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queen, etc., danced. Lieutenant of the Tower. 15th February, 1663. This night some villains broke into my house and -study below, and robbed me to the value of L60 in plate, money and +study below, and robbed me to the value of £60 in plate, money and goods:--this being the third time I have been thus plundered. 26th March, 1663. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a great @@ -15087,7 +15050,7 @@ Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by barge home that night. [Footnote 78: A monument to him in Deptford Church bears a most - pompous inscription: "_Qui fuit patriae decus, patriae suae magnum + pompous inscription: "_Qui fuit patriæ decus, patriæ suæ magnum munimentum_;" to the effect that he had not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful @@ -15167,7 +15130,7 @@ election we dined together, his Majesty sending us venison. 16th December, 1663. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, having three -locks, and in it L100 as a gift. +locks, and in it £100 as a gift. 18th December, 1663. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty's bedchamber at Whitehall. @@ -15463,7 +15426,7 @@ upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war being already declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz, Sir William Doily, Knt. and Bart., Sir Thomas Clifford, and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; -with a salary of L1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our +with a salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute officers, physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to @@ -15483,7 +15446,7 @@ goblet his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to the Ambassador; we returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample -hall. The feast was said to cost L1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and +hall. The feast was said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and came home late. 31st October, 1664. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I returned @@ -15571,7 +15534,7 @@ below: - Period changed to comma after "considerable" on Page 50 - Colon changed to semicolon after "good" on Page 57 - "Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno" on Page 60 - - "ceoercuit" changed to "coercuit" on Page 60 + - "ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" on Page 60 - Period added after "capital" on Page 66 - Comma changed to a period added after "head" on Page 68 - Comma added after "churches" on Page 70 @@ -15619,7 +15582,7 @@ below: - "taffet" changed to "taffeta" on Page 265 - "Febur's" changed to "Febure's" on Page 269 - "Cromwells" changed to "Cromwell's" on Page 274 - - "Conde's" changed to "Conde's" on Page 275 + - "Condè's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275 - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - Duplicate "the" removed on Page 284 @@ -15659,370 +15622,7 @@ below: -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - -***** This file should be named 41218.txt or 41218.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/1/41218/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41218 *** diff --git a/41218-8.txt b/41218-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 40164df..0000000 --- a/41218-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16028 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2) - -Author: John Evelyn - -Commentator: Richard Garnett - -Release Date: October 29, 2012 [EBook #41218] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: _CHARLES I. IN PRISON_ - -_Photogravure after De La Roche_] - - - - - THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN - - EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS BY - WILLIAM BRAY - Fellow of the Antiquarian Society - - IN TWO VOLUMES - - VOL. I - - WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION - BY THE EDITOR - - AND A SPECIAL INTRODUCTION BY - RICHARD GARNETT, LL.D. - Of the British Museum - - M. WALTER DUNNE, PUBLISHER - WASHINGTON & LONDON - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1901, - BY - M. WALTER DUNNE, - PUBLISHER - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -VOLUME I. - - CHARLES I. IN PRISON _Frontispiece_ - Photogravure after De La Roche. - - LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683 180 - Photogravure after a painting by Bridges. - - OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON 284 - The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution - of the Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. - Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain after Newenham. - - -VOLUME II. - - THE DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM _Frontispiece_ - From an old painting. - - NELL GWYNNE 64 - Photogravure after Sir Peter Lely. - - - - -EVELYN'S DIARY - - -The two chief diarists of the age of Charles the Second are, _mutatis -mutandis_, not ill characterized by the remark of a wicked wit upon the -brothers Austin. "John Austin," it was said, "served God and died poor: -Charles Austin served the devil, and died rich. Both were clever fellows. -Charles was much the cleverer of the two." Thus John Evelyn and Samuel -Pepys, the former a perfect model of decorum, the latter a grievous -example of indecorum, have respectively left us diaries, of which the -indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical garden is to a museum: -while the disparity between the testamentary bequests of the two Austins -but imperfectly represents the reputation standing to Pepys's account -with posterity in comparison with that accruing to his sedate and -dignified contemporary. - -Museums, nevertheless, have their uses, and Evelyn's comparatively jejune -record has laid us under no small obligation. But for Pepys's amazing -indiscretion and garrulity, qualities of which one cannot have too little -in life, or too much in the record of it, Evelyn would have been esteemed -the first diarist of his age. Unable for want of these qualifications to -draw any adequate picture of the stirring life around him, he has -executed at least one portrait admirably, his own. The likeness is, -moreover, valuable, as there is every reason to suppose it typical, and -representative of a very important class of society, the well-bred and -well-conducted section of the untitled aristocracy of England. We may -well believe that these men were not only the salt but the substance of -their order. There was an ill-bred section exclusively devoted to -festivity and sport. There was an ill-conducted section, plunged into the -dissipations of court life. But the majority were men like Evelyn: not, -perhaps, equally refined by culture and travel, or equally interested in -literary research and scientific experiment, but well informed and -polite; no strangers to the Court, yet hardly to be called courtiers, -and preferring country to town; loyal to Church and King but not -fanatical or rancorous; as yet but slightly imbued with the principles of -civil and religious liberty, yet adverse to carry the dogma of divine -right further than the right of succession; fortunate in having survived -all ideas of serfdom or vassalage, and in having few private interests -not fairly reconcilable with the general good. Evelyn was made to be the -spokesman of such a class, and, meaning to speak only for himself, he -delivers its mind concerning the Commonwealth and the Restoration, the -conduct of the later Stuart Kings and the Revolution. - -Evelyn's Diary practically begins where many think he had no business to -be diarising, beyond the seas. The position of a loyalist who solaces -himself in Italy while his King is fighting for his crown certainly -requires explanation: it may be sufficient apology for Evelyn that -without the family estates he could be of no great service to the King, -and that these, lying near London, were actually in the grasp of the -Parliament. He was also but one of a large family and it was doubtless -convenient that one member should be out of harm's way. His three years' -absence (1643-6) has certainly proved advantageous to posterity. Evelyn -is, indeed, a mere sight-seer, but this renders his tour a precise record -of the objects which the sight-seer of the seventeenth century was -expected to note, and a mirror not only of the taste but of the feeling -of the time. There is no cult of anything, but there is curiosity about -everything; there is no perception of the sentiment of a landscape, but -real enjoyment of the landscape itself; antiquity is not unappreciated, -but modern works impart more real pleasure. Of the philosophical -reflections which afterward rose to the mind of Gibbon there is hardly a -vestige, and of course Evelyn is at an immeasurable distance from Byron -and De Staël. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude -of a cultivated young Englishman in presence of classic and renaissance -art with its background of Southern nature. We may register without undue -self-complacency a great development of the modern world in the -æsthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of -progress. It is interesting to compare with Evelyn's narrative the -chapters recording the visit to Italy supposed to have been made at this -very period by John Inglesant, who inevitably sees with the eyes of the -nineteenth century. Evelyn's casual remarks on foreign manners and -institutions display good sense, without extraordinary insight; in -description he is frequently observant and graphic, as in his account of -the galley slaves, and of Venetian female costumes. He naturally regards -Alpine scenery as "melancholy and troublesome." - -Returned to England, Evelyn strictly follows the line of the average -English country gentleman, execrating the execution of Charles I., -disgusted beyond measure with the suppression of the Church of England -service, but submissive to the powers that be until there are evident -indications of a change, which he promotes in anything but a Quixotic -spirit. Although he is sincerely attached to the monarchy, the condition -of the Church is evidently a matter of greater concern to him: Cromwell -would have done much to reconcile the royalists to his government, had it -been possible for him to have restored the liturgy and episcopacy. The -same lesson is to be derived from his demeanor during the reigns of -Charles and James. The exultation with which the Restoration is at first -hailed soon evaporates. The scandals of the Court are an offense, -notwithstanding Evelyn's personal attachment to the King. But the chief -point is not vice or favoritism or mismanagement, but alliances with -Roman Catholic powers against Protestant nations. Evelyn is enraged to -see Charles missing the part so clearly pointed out to him by Providence -as the protector of the Protestant religion all over Europe. The -conversion of the Duke of York is a fearful blow, James's ecclesiastical -policy after his accession adds to Evelyn's discontent day by day, while -political tyranny passes almost without remark. At last the old cavalier -is glad to welcome the Prince of Orange as deliverer, and though he has -no enthusiasm for William in his character as King, he remains his -dutiful subject. Just because Evelyn was by no means an extraordinary -person, he represents the plain straightforward sense of the English -gentry. The questions of the seventeenth century were far more religious -than political. The synthesis "Church and King" expressed the dearest -convictions of the great majority of English country families, but when -the two became incompatible they left no doubt which held the first place -in their hearts. They acted instinctively on the principle of the Persian -lady who preferred her brother to her husband. It was not impossible to -find a new King, but there was no alternative to the English Church. - -Evelyn's memoirs thus possess a value far exceeding the modest measure of -worth allowed them by De Quincey: "They are useful as now and then -enabling one to fix the date of a particular event, but for little -besides." The Diary's direct contribution to historical accuracy is -insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological minutiæ, but to the -general progress of moral and political improvement. The editor of 1857 -certainly goes too far in asserting that "All that might have been -excluded from the range of his opinions, his feelings and sympathies -embraced"; but it is interesting to observe the gradual widening of -Evelyn's sympathies with good men of all parties, and to find him in his -latter days criticising the evidence produced in support of the Popish -Plot on the one hand, and deploring the just condemnation of Algernon -Sydney on the other. It is true that, so far as the sufferings of his -country are concerned, his attitude is rather that of the Levite than of -the Samaritan; but more lively popular sympathies would have destroyed -the peculiar value attaching to the testimony of the reluctant witness. -We should, for example, have thought little of such a passage as the -following from the pen of Burnet, from Evelyn it is significant indeed:-- - - _October 14, 1688._--The King's birthday. No guns from the Tower as - usual. The sun eclipsed at its rising. This day signal for the - victory of William the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in - Sussex. The wind, which had been hitherto west, was east all this - day. Wonderful expectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers - ordered to be read in the churches against invasion. - -It might be difficult to produce a nearer approximation in secular -literature to Daniel's "_Mene, Mene, Tekel, Upharsin_." - -There is little else in the Diary equally striking, though Evelyn's -description of Whitehall on the eve of the death of Charles the Second -ranks among the memorable passages of the language. It is nevertheless -full of interesting anecdotes and curious notices, especially of the -scientific research which, in default of any adequate public -organization, was in that age more efficaciously promoted by students -than by professors. De Quincey censures Evelyn for omitting to record the -conversation of the men with whom he associated, but he does not consider -that the Diary in its present shape is a digest of memoranda made long -previously, and that time failed at one period and memory at the other. -De Quincey, whose extreme acuteness was commonly evinced on the negative -side of a question, saw the weak points of the Diary upon its first -publication much more clearly than his contemporaries did, and was -betrayed into illiberality by resentment at what he thought its -undeserved vogue. Evelyn has in truth been fortunate; his record, which -his contemporaries would have neglected, appeared (1818) just in time to -be a precursor of the Anglican movement, a tendency evinced in a similar -fashion by the vindication, no doubt mistaken, of the Caroline authorship -of the "Icon Basilike." Evelyn was a welcome encounter to men of this -cast of thought, and was hailed as a model of piety, culture, and -urbanity, without sufficient consideration of his deficiencies as a -loyalist and a patriot. It also conduced to his reputation that all his -other writings should have virtually perished except his "Sylva," like -his Diary a landmark in the history of improvement, though in a widely -different department. But for his lack of diplomatic talent, he might be -compared with an eminent and much applauded, but in our times somewhat -decrescent, contemporary, Sir William Temple. Both these eminent persons -would have aroused a warmer feeling in posterity, and have effected more -for its instruction and entertainment, if they could occasionally have -dashed their dignity with an infusion of the grotesqueness, we will not -say of Pepys, but of Roger North. To them, however, their dignity was -their character, and although we could have wished them a larger measure -of geniality, we must feel indebted to them for their preservation of a -refined social type. - -[Illustration: Richard Garnett (signature)] - - - - -EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION - - -Evelyn lived in the busy and important times of King Charles I., Oliver -Cromwell, King Charles II., King James II., and King William, and early -accustomed himself to note such things as occurred, which he thought -worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had much personal intercourse -with, the Kings Charles II. and James II.; and he was in habits of great -intimacy with many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and with many -of the eminent men of those days, as well among the clergy as the laity. -Foreigners distinguished for learning, or arts, who came to England, did -not leave it without visiting him. - -The following pages contribute extensive and important particulars of -this eminent man. They show that he did not travel merely to count -steeples, as he expresses himself in one of his Letters: they develop his -private character as one of the most amiable kind. With a strong -predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings Charles -II. and James II., formed when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly -averse to the arbitrary measures of these monarchs. - -Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the Church -of England, he yet felt the most liberal sentiments for those who -differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all -persuasions; nor did he think it necessary to break connection with -anyone who had ever been induced to desert the Church of England, and -embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. In writing to the brother of a -gentleman thus circumstanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in this -admirable manner: "For the rest, we must commit to Providence the success -of times and mitigation of proselytical fervors; having for my own -particular a very great charity for all who sincerely adore the Blessed -Jesus, our common and dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God -(however the present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by others at -the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England may transport -them) will at last compassionate our infirmities, clarify our judgments, -and make abatement for our ignorances, superstructures, passions, and -errors of corrupt times and interests, of which the Romish persuasion can -no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity and secular polity -may pretend. But God will make all things manifest in his own time, only -let us possess ourselves in patience and charity. This will cover a -multitude of imperfections." - -He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general, -admitting that some of the laws enacted against them might be mitigated; -but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, considering them as a -most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes -which befell King James II., and of the horrible persecutions of the -Protestants in France and Savoy. - -He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and address, for he -had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the same time that he -was corresponding with his father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, the -Ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris; and at the same period that he -paid his court to the King, he maintained his intimacy with a disgraced -minister. - -In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for -learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. - -His manners we may presume to have been most agreeable; for his company -was sought by the greatest men, not merely by inviting him to their own -tables, but by their repeated visits to him at his own house; and this -was equally the case with regard to ladies, of many of whom he speaks in -the highest style of admiration, affection, and respect. He was master of -the French, Italian, and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal -is manifest; but at what time he found opportunities for study, it is not -easy to say. He acknowledges himself to have been idle, while at Oxford; -and, when on his travels, he had little time for reading, except when he -stayed about nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was -likewise stationary for several months. At Rome, he remained a -considerable time, but, while there, he was so continually engaged in -viewing the great variety of interesting objects to be seen in that city, -that he could have found little leisure for reading. When resident in -England, he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, -in paying visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever -was deemed worthy of curiosity, or of scientific observation, that it is -astonishing how he found the opportunity to compose the numerous books -which he published, and the much greater number of Papers, on almost -every subject, which still remain in manuscript; to say nothing of the -very extensive and voluminous correspondence which he appears to have -carried on during his long life, with men of the greatest eminence in -Church and State, and the most distinguished for learning, both -Englishmen and foreigners. In this correspondence he does not seem to -have made use of an amanuensis; and he has left transcripts in his own -hand of great numbers of letters both received and sent. He observes, -indeed, in one of these, that he seldom went to bed before twelve, or -closed his eyes before one o'clock. - -He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of an -enlightened mind, who had read much, and was skilled in etching and -painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and a -most affectionate mother. - -His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who settled in -Surrey. John, father of this George, was of Kingston, in 1520, and -married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Long -Ditton, near Kingston, which afterward came in the hands of George, who -there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He purchased very -considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of -three families, viz, Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton; John, at -Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these three families had the -title of Baronet conferred on them at different times, viz, at Godstone, -in 1660; Long Ditton, in 1683; and Wotton, in 1713. - -The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well as at -Long Ditton; but it does not appear that there ever was any mill at -Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a view. - -It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr. Evelyn's -father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudiments of -this son's learning were acquired from the village schoolmaster over the -porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and at -college, he himself speaks with great humility; nor did he add much to -his stock of knowledge, while he resided in the Middle Temple, to which -his father sent him, with the intention that he should apply to what he -calls "an impolished study," which he says he never liked. - -The "Biographia" does not notice his tour in France, Flanders, and -Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a volunteer in an -English regiment then in service in Flanders.[1] Nor does it notice his -having set out, with intent to join King Charles I. at Brentford; and -subsequently desisting when the result of that battle became known, on -the ground that his brother's as well as his own estates were so near -London as to be fully in power of the Parliament, and that their -continued adherence would have been certain ruin to themselves without -any advantage to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he asked and -obtained the King's leave to travel. Of these travels, and the -observations he made therein, an ample account is given in this Diary. - - [Footnote 1: This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the - fact of Evelyn's having witnessed a siege merely as a curious - spectator. He reached the camp on the 2d, and left it on the 8th of - August, 1641. It is certain, however, that during these six days he - took his turn on duty, and trailed a pike.--See Diary.] - -The national troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled plan -for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of living in the -most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he had even -begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he afterward -wholly abandon his intention, if the plan of a college, which he sent to -Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious idea. This scheme is -given at length in the "Biographia," and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the -"Sylva" in 1776; but it may be observed that he proposes it should not be -more than twenty-five miles from London. - -As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in -which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part and urges the preference to -which public employment and an active life is entitled,--it may be -considered as the playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, -would controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his -own opinion; if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham -Cowley, dated 12th March and 24th August, 1666, in the former of which he -writes: "You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name -it affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated recess, and envied it -in others, should become an advocate for the enemy, which of all others -it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am still of the -same mind, and that there is no person alive who does more honor and -breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and advance by -your example; but, as those who praised dirt, a flea, and the gout, so -have I public employment in that trifling Essay, and that in so weak a -style compared with my antagonist's, as by that alone it will appear I -neither was nor could be serious, and I hope you believe I speak my very -soul to you. - - '_Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra mista Camoenis - Otia sunt----_'" - -In the other, he says, "I pronounce it to you from my heart as oft as I -consider it, that I look on your fruitions with inexpressible emulation, -and should think myself more happy than crowned heads, were I, as you, -the arbiter of mine own life, and could break from those gilded toys to -taste your well-described joys with such a wife and such a friend, whose -conversation exceeds all that the mistaken world calls happiness." But, -in truth, Mr. Evelyn's mind was too active to admit of solitude at all -times, however desirable it might appear to him in theory. - -After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Cromwell, he -kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard Browne (his -father-in-law), the King's Ambassador at Paris; and though his connection -must have been known, it does not appear that he met with any -interruption from the government here. Indeed, though he remained a -decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate friends even -among those nearly connected with Cromwell; and to this we may attribute -his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he never did -take. In 1659, he published "An Apology for the Royal Party"; and soon -after printed a paper which was of great service to the King, entitled -"The Late News, or Message from Brussels Unmasked," which was an answer -to a pamphlet designed to represent the King in the worst light. - -On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at Court; and he became -engaged in many public employments, still attending to his studies and -literary pursuits. Among these, is particularly to be mentioned the Royal -Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he took a very active -part. He procured Mr. Howard's library to be given to them; and by his -influence, in 1667, the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the -University of Oxford. - -His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commissioner -for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and -regulating hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a -Commissioner on an inquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, etc., -concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a commission -for regulating the Mint; in the same year was appointed one of the -Commissioners for the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war; and -he was continued in the same employment in the second war with that -country. - -He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathedral, -shortly before it was burned in 1666. In that year he was also in a -commission for regulating the farming and making saltpetre; and in 1671 -we find him a Commissioner of Plantations on the establishment of the -board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 1672. - -In 1685 he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal, during the -absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his going -Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in -1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and, on the 30th of June, 1696, -laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed Treasurer, -with a salary of £200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before -he received any part of it. - -When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, proposing to instruct -himself in the art of shipbuilding, he was desirous of having the use of -Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the King's dockyard at -Deptford. This was conceded; but during his stay he did so much damage -that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it. He especially regrets -the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been -thought beyond the reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favorite -recreations had been to demolish the hedges by riding through them in a -wheelbarrow. - -October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying without male -issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate; and in May -following, he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he passed the -remainder of his life, with the exception of occasional visits to London, -where he retained a house. In the great storm of 1703, he mentions in his -last edition of the "Sylva," above one thousand trees were blown down in -sight of his residence. - -He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-6, in the -eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His lady survived -him nearly three years, dying 9th February, 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth -year, and was buried near him at Wotton. - -Of Evelyn's children, a son, who died at the age of five, and a daughter, -who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. The particulars -of their extraordinary endowments, and the profound manner in which he -was affected at their deaths, may be seen in these volumes. - -One daughter was well and happily settled; another less so; but she did -not survive her marriage more than a few months. The only son who lived -to the age of manhood, inherited his father's love of learning, and -distinguished himself by several publications. - -Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner for the care of the Sick and -Wounded was very laborious; and, from the nature of it, must have been -extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labor was in his department, which -included all the ports between the river Thames and Portsmouth; and he -had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the -execution of his office, to which he gave the strictest attention. It -was rendered still more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he -found in procuring money for support of the prisoners. In the library at -Wotton, are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and Officers -of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress of the -poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries for -them. At one time, there were such arrears of payment to the victuallers, -that, on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay some time in the -streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their -houses. After all this trouble and fatigue, he found as great difficulty -in getting his accounts settled.[2] In January, 1665-6, he formed a plan -for an Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid -before the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it; but it does -not appear that it was carried into execution. - - [Footnote 2: 2d October, 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, - Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, - complaining of want of money for the prisoners: praying that while - he and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons and all - that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable service, they may not be - exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning their care; and - adding that they have lost their officers and servants by the - pestilence, and are hourly environed with the saddest objects of - perishing people. "I have," says he, "fifteen places full of sick - men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble; the magistrates and - justices, who should further us in our exigencies, hindering the - people from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and - causing them to shut the doors at our approach."] - -His employments, in connection with the repair of St. Paul's (which, -however, occupied him but a brief time), as in the Commission of Trade -and Plantations, and in the building of Greenwich Hospital, were much -better adapted to his inclinations and pursuits. - -As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of King James II., he -had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to the -Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be affixed to many -things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This, on some -occasions, he refused to do, particularly to a license to Dr. Obadiah -Walker to print Popish books;[3] and on other occasions he absented -himself, leaving it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought -fit. Such, however, was the King's estimation of him, that no displeasure -was evinced on this account. - - [Footnote 3: Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, - but had renounced it, and turned Papist.] - -Of Evelyn's attempt to bring Colonel Morley (Cromwell's Lieutenant of the -Tower, immediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's -interest, an imperfect account is given in the "Biographia." The fact is, -that there was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Evelyn did -endeavor to engage the Colonel in the King's interest. He saw him several -times, and put his life into his hands by writing to him on 12th January, -1659-60; he did not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his friend -to betray him; but so far from the Colonel having settled matters -privately with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper, or General Monk, as there -described, he was obliged, when the Restoration took place, actually to -apply to Evelyn to procure his pardon; who obtained it accordingly, -though, as he states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a large sum of money -for it. This could not have happened, if there had been any previous -negotiation with General Monk. - -Dr. Campbell took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's book, entitled, -"Navigation and Commerce, their Origin and Progress," from the charge of -being an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. -But the Doctor, who had not the information which this Journal so amply -affords on this subject, was not aware that what was so printed was -nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War; a work -undertaken by Evelyn at the express command of King Charles II., and the -materials for which were furnished by the Officers of State. The -completion of this work, after considerable progress had been made in it, -was put a stop to by the King himself, for what reason does not appear; -but perhaps it was found that Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the -truth concerning a transaction, which it will be seen by his Journal that -he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far as he had -proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend, Mr. Pepys, of the -Admiralty, who did not return it; but the books and manuscripts belonging -to Mr. Pepys passed into the possession of Magdalen College, Cambridge. - -From the numerous authors who have spoken in high terms of Mr. Evelyn, we -will select the two following notices of him. - -In the "Biographia Britannica" Dr. Campbell says, "It is certain that -very few authors who have written in our language deserve the character -of able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was -acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, -yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from being -a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had learning; and -he knew how to give all these a proper place in his works, so as never to -pass for a pedant, even with such as were least in love with literature, -and to be justly esteemed a polite author by those who knew it best." - -Horace Walpole (afterward Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue of Engravers, -gives us the following admirably drawn character: "If Mr. Evelyn had not -been an artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, I should yet have -found it difficult to deny myself the pleasure of allotting him a place -among the arts he loved, promoted, patronized; and it would be but -justice to inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, as I -have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise him. But they are -trifling blemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence; and -it may be remarked that the worst I have said of him is, that he knew -more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that -a man's intelligence and philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write -his biography, but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to -eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, -and benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labors of the -creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of -the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from -examination; was a courtier that flattered only by informing his Prince, -and by pointing out what was worthy of him to countenance; and really was -the neighbor of the Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been -the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works will subscribe to -my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of the Royal Society; a -patron of the ingenious and the indigent; and peculiarly serviceable to -the lettered world; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he -obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and the -Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. Nor is it the least part of his -praise, that he who proposed to Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical -College for retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write in -defense of active life against Sir George Mackenzie's 'Essay on -Solitude.' He knew that retirement, in his own hands, was industry and -benefit to mankind; but in those of others, laziness and inutility." - -Evelyn was buried in the Dormitory adjoining Wotton Church. - -On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin, raised about -three feet above the floor, is inscribed: - - Here lies the Body - of JOHN EVELYN, Esq., - of this place, second son - of Richard Evelyn, Esq.; - who having serv'd the Publick - in several employments, of which that - of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the - Reign of King James the 2d was most - honourable, and perpetuated his fame - by far more lasting monuments than - those of Stone or Brass, his learned - and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day - of February 1705-6, being the 86 year - of his age, in full hope of a glorious - Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ. - Living in an age of extraordinary - Events and Revolutions, he learnt - (as himself asserted) this Truth, - which pursuant to his intention - is here declared-- - _That all is vanity which is not honest, - and that there is no solid wisdom - but in real Piety._ - Of five Sons and three Daughters - born to him from his most - vertuous and excellent Wife, - Mary, sole daughter and heiress - of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes - Court near Deptford in Kent, - onely one daughter, Susanna, - married to William Draper - Esq., of Adscomb in this - County, survived him; the - two others dying in the - flower of their age, and - all the Sons very young, except - one named John, who - deceased 24 March, 1698-9, - in the 45 year of his age, - leaving one son, John, and - one daughter, Elizabeth. - - - - -VOLUME I. - -1620-1664 - - -VOLUME II. - -1665-1706 - - - - -DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. - - -I was born at Wotton, in the County of Surrey, about twenty minutes past -two in the morning, being on Tuesday the 31st and last of October, 1620, -after my father had been married about seven years,[4] and that my mother -had borne him three children; viz, two daughters and one son, about the -33d year of his age, and the 23d of my mother's. - - [Footnote 4: He was married at St. Thomas's, Southwark, 27th - January, 1613. My sister Eliza was born at nine at night, 28th - November, 1614; Jane at four in the morning, 16th February, 1616; my - brother George at nine at night, Wednesday, 18th June, 1617; and my - brother Richard, 9th November, 1622.--_Note by Evelyn._] - -[Sidenote: WOTTON] - -My father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash -of choler: his hair inclining to light, which, though exceedingly thick, -became hoary by the time he had attained to thirty years of age; it was -somewhat curled toward the extremities; his beard, which he wore a little -peaked, as the mode was, of a brownish color, and so continued to the -last, save that it was somewhat mingled with gray hairs about his cheeks, -which, with his countenance, were clear and fresh-colored; his eyes -extraordinary quick and piercing; an ample forehead,--in sum, a very -well-composed visage and manly aspect: for the rest, he was but low of -stature, yet very strong. He was, for his life, so exact and temperate, -that I have heard he had never been surprised by excess, being ascetic -and sparing. His wisdom was great, and his judgment most acute; of solid -discourse, affable, humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving, neat, -silent, and methodical genius, discreetly severe, yet liberal upon all -just occasions, both to his children, to strangers, and servants; a lover -of hospitality; and, in brief, of a singular and Christian moderation in -all his actions; not illiterate, nor obscure, as, having continued -Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum, he served his country as High -Sheriff, being, as I take it, the last dignified with that office for -Sussex and Surrey together, the same year, before their separation. He -was yet a studious decliner of honors and titles; being already in that -esteem with his country, that they could have added little to him besides -their burden. He was a person of that rare conversation that, upon -frequent recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and -discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion, or -inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about £4000 per annum, well wooded, -and full of timber. - -My mother's name was Eleanor, sole daughter and heiress of John -Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and honorable family (though now -extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and -well-known house in Sussex. She was of proper personage; of a brown -complexion; her eyes and hair of a lovely black; of constitution more -inclined to a religious melancholy, or pious sadness; of a rare memory, -and most exemplary life; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the -most conspicuous in her country: which rendered her loss much deplored, -both by those who knew, and such as only heard of her. - -Thus much, in brief, touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should -speak less of them to whom I owe so much. - -The place of my birth was Wotton, in the parish of Wotton, or Blackheath, -in the county of Surrey, the then mansion-house of my father, left him by -my grandfather, afterward and now my eldest brother's. It is situated in -the most southern part of the shire; and, though in a valley, yet really -upon part of Leith Hill, one of the most eminent in England for the -prodigious prospect to be seen from its summit, though by few observed. -From it may be discerned twelve or thirteen counties, with part of the -sea on the coast of Sussex, in a serene day. The house is large and -ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed -with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the judgment of -strangers as well as Englishmen it may be compared to one of the most -pleasant seats in the nation, and most tempting for a great person and a -wanton purse to render it conspicuous. It has rising grounds, meadows, -woods, and water, in abundance. - -The distance from London little more than twenty miles, and yet so -securely placed, as if it were one hundred; three miles from Dorking, -which serves it abundantly with provision as well of land as sea; six -from Guildford, twelve from Kingston. I will say nothing of the air, -because the pre-eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being -dry and sandy; but I should speak much of the gardens, fountains, and -groves that adorn it, were they not as generally known to be among the -most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury of the whole -nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that -England afforded; and which indeed gave one of the first examples to that -elegancy, since so much in vogue, and followed in the managing of their -waters, and other elegancies of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity -of five or six manors, the patronage of the livings about it, and what -Themistocles pronounced for none of the least advantages--the good -neighborhood. All which conspire here to render it an honorable and -handsome royalty, fit for the present possessor, my worthy brother, and -his noble lady, whose constant liberality gives them title both to the -place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet: - - _Nescio quâ natale solum dulcedine cunctos - Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui._ - -I had given me the name of my grandfather, my mother's father, who, -together with a sister of Sir Thomas Evelyn, of Long Ditton, and Mr. -Comber, a near relation of my mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity -(yet upon what accident I know not, unless some indisposition in me) was -performed in the dining-room by Parson Higham, the present incumbent of -the parish, according to the forms prescribed by the then glorious Church -of England. - -I was now (in regard to my mother's weakness, or rather custom of persons -of quality) put to nurse to one Peter, a neighbor's wife and tenant, of a -good, comely, brown, wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place -toward the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with streams; the -affection to which kind of solitude I sucked in with my very milk. It -appears, by a note of my father's, that I sucked till 17th of January, -1622, or at least I came not home before.[5] - - [Footnote 5: The whole of this passage, so characteristic of the - writer's tastes and genius, and both the paragraphs before and after - it, are printed for the first time in this edition. Portions of the - preceding description of Wotton are also first taken from the - original; and it may not be out of place to add that, more - especially in the first fifty pages of this volume, a very large - number of curious and interesting additions are made to Evelyn's - text from the Manuscript of the Diary at Wotton.] - -1623. The very first thing that I can call to memory, and from which time -forward I began to observe, was this year (1623) my youngest brother, -being in his nurse's arms, who, being then two days and nine months -younger than myself, was the last child of my dear parents. - -1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments until near four years of -age, and then one Frier taught us at the church-porch of Wotton; and I do -perfectly remember the great talk and stir about Il Conde Gondomar, now -Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was the match of our -Prince with the Infanta proposed); and the effects of that comet, 1618, -still working in the prodigious revolutions now beginning in Europe, -especially in Germany, whose sad commotions sprang from the Bohemians' -defection from the Emperor Matthias; upon which quarrel the Swedes broke -in, giving umbrage to the rest of the princes, and the whole Christian -world cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying perfect tranquillity. - -1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of King Charles) sent -by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be with my grandfather, Standsfield, -with whom I passed my childhood. This was the year in which the -pestilence was so epidemical, that there died in London 5,000 a week, and -I well remember the strict watches and examinations upon the ways as we -passed; and I was shortly after so dangerously sick of a fever that (as I -have heard) the physicians despaired of me. - -1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell, no ill painter. - -1627. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on the 5th of -February: I remember perfectly the solemnity at his funeral. He was -buried in the parish church of All Souls, where my grandmother, his -second wife, erected him a pious monument. About this time, was the -consecration of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, -Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was afterward minister); -the building whereof was chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having -the impropriation, gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward -sold the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the building of -the church. - -1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn my Latin -rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very -well remember that general muster previous to the Isle of Rhè's -expedition, and that I was one day awakened in the morning with the news -of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton, after our -disgrace before La Rochelle. And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to -drawing and designing, that I could never after wean my inclinations from -it, to the expense of much precious time, which might have been more -advantageously employed. I was now put to school to one Mr. Potts, in the -Cliff at Lewes, from whom, on the 7th of January, 1630, being the day -after Epiphany, I went to the free-school at Southover, near the town, of -which one Agnes Morley had been the foundress, and now Edward Snatt was -the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the University.[6] -This year, my grandmother (with whom I sojourned) being married to one -Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gentleman, we went from the -Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover. I do most perfectly remember -the jubilee which was universally expressed for the happy birth of the -Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now Charles II., our most gracious -Sovereign. - - [Footnote 6: Long afterward, Evelyn was in the habit of paying great - respect to his old teacher.] - -1631. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in England, corn bearing -an excessive price; and, in imitation of what I had seen my father do, I -began to observe matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in -a blank almanac. The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment for many shameful -exorbitances was now all the talk, and the birth of the Princess Mary, -afterward Princess of Orange. - -21st October, 1632. My eldest sister was married to Edward Darcy, Esq., -who little deserved so excellent a person, a woman of so rare virtue. I -was not present at the nuptials; but I was soon afterward sent for into -Surrey, and my father would willingly have weaned me from my fondness of -my too indulgent grandmother, intending to have placed me at Eton; but, -not being so provident for my own benefit, and unreasonably terrified -with the report of the severe discipline there, I was sent back to Lewes; -which perverseness of mine I have since a thousand times deplored. This -was the first time that ever my parents had seen all their children -together in prosperity. While I was now trifling at home, I saw London, -where I lay one night only. The next day, I dined at Beddington, where I -was much delighted with the gardens and curiosities. Thence, we returned -to the Lady Darcy's, at Sutton; thence to Wotton; and, on the 16th of -August following, 1633, back to Lewes. - -3d November, 1633. This year my father was appointed Sheriff, the last, -as I think, who served in that honorable office for Surrey and Sussex, -before they were disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one -liveried in green satin doublets; divers gentlemen and persons of quality -waited on him in the same garb and habit, which at that time (when thirty -or forty was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great -matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my father exceeded (who -was one of the greatest decliners of it); but because he could not refuse -the civility of his friends and relations, who voluntarily came -themselves, or sent in their servants. But my father was afterward most -unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering judge, Richardson, for -reprieving the execution of a woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then -Admiral: but out of this he emerged with as much honor as trouble. The -king made this year his progress into Scotland, and Duke James was born. - -15th December, 1634: My dear sister, Darcy, departed this life, being -arrived to her 20th year of age; in virtue advanced beyond her years, or -the merit of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to bed -the 2d of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the 24th of -December. I was therefore sent for home the second time, to celebrate the -obsequies of my sister; who was interred in a very honorable manner in -our dormitory joining to the parish church, where now her monument -stands. - -1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously sick, I was, on the 3d of -September following, sent for to Wotton. Whom I found so far spent, that, -all human assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner departed this -life upon the 29th of the same month, about eight in the evening of -Michaelmas-day. It was a malignant fever which took her away, about the -37th of her age, and 22d of her marriage, to our irreparable loss and the -regret of all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible cause of her -indisposition proceeded from grief upon the loss of her daughter, and the -infant that followed it; and it is as certain, that when she perceived -the peril whereto its excess had engaged her, she strove to compose -herself and allay it; but it was too late, and she was forced to succumb. -Therefore summoning all her children then living (I shall never forget -it), she expressed herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so -pious and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary -loss then imminent; after which, embracing every one of us she gave to -each a ring with her blessing and dismissed us. Then, taking my father by -the hand, she recommended us to his care; and, because she was extremely -zealous for the education of my younger brother, she requested my father -that he might be sent with me to Lewes; and so having importuned him that -what he designed to bestow on her funeral, he would rather dispose among -the poor, she labored to compose herself for the blessed change which she -now expected. There was not a servant in the house whom she did not -expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her counsel. Thus -she continued to employ her intervals, either instructing her relations, -or preparing of herself. - -Though her physicians, Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, had given -over all hopes of her recovery, and Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his -celebrated and famous powder, yet she was many days impairing, and -endured the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable patience -and most Christian resignation, retaining both her intellectuals and -ardent affections for her dissolution, to the very article of her -departure. When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of -her children; and taking solemn leave of my father, with elevated heart -and eyes, she quietly expired, and resigned her soul to God. Thus ended -that prudent and pious woman, in the flower of her age, to the -inconsolable affliction of her husband, irreparable loss of her children, -and universal regret of all that knew her. She was interred, as near as -might be, to her daughter Darcy, the 3d of October, at night, but with no -mean ceremony. - -It was the 3d of the ensuing November, after my brother George was gone -back to Oxford, ere I returned to Lewes, when I made way, according to -instructions received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was sent -the 12th after. - -1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence much increased in -London, and divers parts of England. - -13th February, 1637: I was especially admitted (and, as I remember, my -other brother) into the Middle Temple, London, though absent, and as yet -at school. There were now large contributions to the distressed -Palatinates. - -The 10th of December my father sent a servant to bring us necessaries, -and the plague beginning now to cease, on the 3d of April, 1637, I left -school, where, till about the last year, I have been extremely remiss in -my studies; so as I went to the University rather out of shame of abiding -longer at school, than for any fitness, as by sad experience I found: -which put me to re-learn all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily -gained. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -10th May, 1637. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of Baliol College, -Oxford; and, on the 29th, I was matriculated in the vestry of St. Mary's, -where I subscribed the Articles, and took the oaths: Dr. Baily, head of -St. John's, being vice-chancellor, afterward bishop. It appears by a -letter of my father's, that he was upon treaty with one Mr. Bathurst -(afterward Doctor and President), of Trinity College, who should have -been my tutor; but, lest my brother's tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in -his life than industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an affront, -and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol were no more exempt -from exercise than the meanest scholars there, my father sent me thither -to one Mr. George Bradshaw (_nomen invisum!_ yet the son of an excellent -father, beneficed in Surrey). I ever thought my tutor had parts enough; -but as his ambition made him much suspected of the College, so his grudge -to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterward supplanted), took -up so much of his time, that he seldom or never had the opportunity to -discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, associated myself -with one Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of the foundation, -afterward a Fellow of the house), by whose learned and friendly -conversation I received great advantage. At my first arrival, Dr. -Parkhurst was master: and after his decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of -his Majesty's and Margaret Professor, succeeded, an acute and learned -person; nor do I much reproach his severity, considering that the -extraordinary remissness of discipline had (till his coming) much -detracted from the reputation of that College. - -There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel Conopios, out of -Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of Constantinople, who, returning many -years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the -first I ever saw drink coffee; which custom came not into England till -thirty years after.[7] - - [Footnote 7: Evelyn should have said "till twenty years after," not - thirty. Coffee was introduced into England, and coffee-houses set - up, in 1658.] - -After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was the -University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William -Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor -to the library of the College, these books--"_ex dono Johannis Evelyni, -hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, è com. Surriæ, -armig^r_."-- - -"_Zanchii Opera_," vols. 1, 2, 3. - -"_Granado in Thomam Aquinatem_," vols. 1, 2, 3. - -"_Novarini Electa Sacra_" and "_Cresolii Anthologia Sacra_"; authors, it -seems, much desired by the students of divinity there. - -Upon the 2d of July, being the first Sunday of the month, I first -received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord's Supper in the college -chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow of the house, preaching; and at this -time was the Church of England in her greatest splendor, all things -decent, and becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed. The most -of the following week I spent in visiting the Colleges, and several -rarities of the University, which do very much affect young comers. - -18th July, 1637. I accompanied my eldest brother, who then quitted -Oxford, into the country; and, on the 9th of August, went to visit my -friends at Lewes, whence I returned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th of -September, I received the blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and 23d of -October went back to Oxford. - -5th November, 1637. I received again the Holy Communion in our college -chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad one), preaching. - -9th December, 1637. I offered at my first exercise in the Hall, and -answered my opponent; and, upon the 11th following, declaimed in the -chapel before the Master, Fellows, and Scholars, according to the custom. -The 15th after, I first of all opposed in the Hall. - -The Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the gentlemen of Exeter -College presented to the University, and standing, for the better -advantage of seeing, upon a table in the Hall, which was near to another, -in the dark, being constrained by the extraordinary press to quit my -station, in leaping down to save myself I dashed my right leg with such -violence against the sharp edge of the other board, as gave me a hurt -which held me in cure till almost Easter, and confined me to my study. - -22d January, 1638. I would needs be admitted into the dancing and -vaulting schools; of which late activity one Stokes, the master, did -afterward set forth a pretty book, which was published, with many witty -elogies before it. - -4th February, 1638. One Mr. Wariner preached in our chapel; and, on the -25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman of the Earl of Strafford; after which -followed the blessed Sacrament. - -13th April, 1638. My father ordered that I should begin to manage my own -expenses, which till then my tutor had done; at which I was much -satisfied. - -[Sidenote: PORTSMOUTH] - -9th July, 1638. I went home to visit my friends, and, on the 26th, with -my brother and sister to Lewes, where we abode till the 31st; and thence -to one Mr. Michael's, of Houghton, near Arundel, where we were very well -treated; and, on the 2d of August, to Portsmouth, and thence, having -surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity in that blessed halcyon time -in England), we passed into the Isle of Wight, to the house of my Lady -Richards, in a place called Yaverland; but were turned the following day -to Chichester, where, having viewed the city and fair cathedral, we -returned home. - -About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted with a quartan ague, -that I could by no means get rid of it till the December following. This -was the fatal year wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon -the pretense of the introduction of some new ceremonies and the Book of -Common Prayer, and madly began our confusions, and their own destruction, -too, as it proved in event. - -14th January, 1639. I came back to Oxford, after my tedious -indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time; and now I began to -look upon the rudiments of music, in which I afterward arrived to some -formal knowledge, though to small perfection of hand, because I was so -frequently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles. - -20th May, 1639. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafford (who afterward being -my fellow-traveler in Italy, there changed his religion), I took a -journey of pleasure to see the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, -Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other towns of lesser note; and returned -the 25th. - -8th October, 1639. I went back to Oxford. - -14th December, 1639. According to injunctions from the Heads of Colleges, -I went (among the rest) to the Confirmation at St. Mary's, where, after -sermon, the Bishop of Oxford laid his hands upon us, with the usual form -of benediction prescribed: but this received (I fear) for the more part -out of curiosity, rather than with that due preparation and advice which -had been requisite, could not be so effectual as otherwise that admirable -and useful institution might have been, and as I have since deplored it. - -21st January, 1640. Came my brother, Richard, from school, to be my -chamber-fellow at the University. He was admitted the next day and -matriculated the 31st. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -11th April, 1640. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Majesty's -riding through the city in state to the Short Parliament, which began the -13th following,--a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled -with his royal diadem and the affections of his people: but the day after -I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my father's indisposition -suffering great intervals, till April 27th, when I was sent to London to -be first resident at the Middle Temple: so as my being at the University, -in regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to me. Upon May -the 5th following, was the Parliament unhappily dissolved; and, on the -20th I returned with my brother George to Wotton, who, on the 28th of the -same month, was married at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of an -ancient Leicestershire family, where part of the nuptials were -celebrated). - -10th June, 1640. I repaired with my brother to the term, to go into our -new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-court), being a very handsome -apartment just over against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, -which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much -contribute to the love of that impolished study, to which (I suppose) my -father had designed me, when he paid £145 to purchase our present lives, -and assignments afterward. - -London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent -disorders, and great insolences were committed by the abused and too -happy City: in particular, the Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lambeth -was assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark, my Lord Chamberlain -imprisoned and many scandalous libels and invectives scattered about the -streets, to the reproach of Government, and the fermentation of our since -distractions: so that, upon the 25th of June, I was sent for to Wotton, -and the 27th after, my father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of -the physicians he repaired to the Bath. - -7th July, 1640. My brother George and I, understanding the peril my -father was in upon a sudden attack of his infirmity, rode post from -Guildford toward him, and found him extraordinary weak; yet so as that, -continuing his course, he held out till the 8th of September, when I -returned home with him in his litter. - -15th October, 1640. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas Term. - -30th December, 1640. I saw his Majesty (coming from his Northern -Expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a -happy peace, restored to the affections of his people, being conducted -through London with a most splendid cavalcade; and on the 3d of November -following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse), to that long -ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our -sorrows for twenty years after, and the period of the most happy monarch -in the world: _Quis talia fando!_ - -But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy, an indisposition -the most unsuspected, being a person so exemplarily temperate, and of -admirable regimen, hastened me back to Wotton, December the 12th; where, -the 24th following, between twelve and one o'clock at noon, departed this -life that excellent man and indulgent parent, retaining his senses and -piety to the last, which he most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom -he now left to the world and the worst of times, while he was taken from -the evil to come. - -1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the year, when on the 2d -of January, 1640-1, we at night followed the mourning hearse to the -church at Wotton; when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the -minister, my father was interred near his formerly erected monument, and -mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear wife. Thus we were bereft -of both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of -their counsel and assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, -uncertain, and very unwary inclination: but so it pleased God to make -trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious -hazard that ever the youth of England saw; and, if I did not amidst all -this impeach my liberty nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of -both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the least -providence or discretion of mine own, who now thought of nothing but the -pursuit of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. - -15th April, 1641. I repaired to London to hear and see the famous trial -of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who, on the 22d of -March, had been summoned before both Houses of Parliament, and now -appeared in Westminster-hall,[8] which was prepared with scaffolds for -the Lords and Commons, who, together with the King, Queen, Prince, and -flower of the noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest -malice and the greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrous an -assembly. It was Thomas, Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of -England, who was made High Steward upon this occasion; and the sequel is -too well known to need any notice of the event. - - [Footnote 8: On the 15th of April Strafford made his eloquent - defense, which it seems to have been Evelyn's good fortune to be - present at. And here the reader may remark the fact, not without - significance, that between the entries on this page of the Diary - which relate to Lord Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over - to make love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old; and that - the marriage was subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court - rejoicings and festivities, in which the King took a prominent part, - during the short interval which elapsed between the sentence and - execution of the King's great and unfortunate minister.] - -On the 27th of April, came over out of Holland the young Prince of -Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love to his Majesty's eldest -daughter, the now Princess Royal. - -That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of the Duke of Richmond, -who was carried in effigy, with all the ensigns of that illustrious -family, in an open chariot, in great solemnity, through London to -Westminster Abbey. - -On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fatal stroke which severed -the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, -whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law or statute, a new -one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction. With what -reluctancy the King signed the execution, he has sufficiently expressed; -to which he imputes his own unjust suffering--to such exorbitancy were -things arrived. - -On the 24th of May, I returned to Wotton; and, on the 28th of June, I -went to London with my sister, Jane, and the day after sat to one -Vanderborcht for my picture in oil, at Arundel-house, whose servant that -excellent painter was, brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from -Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary, with great pomp and -charge, though without any effect, through the artifice of the Jesuited -Spaniard who governed all in that conjuncture). With Vanderborcht, the -painter, he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, who engraved -not only the unhappy Deputy's trial in Westminster-hall, but his -decapitation; as he did several other historical things, then relating to -the accidents happening during the Rebellion in England, with great -skill; besides many cities, towns, and landscapes, not only of this -nation, but of foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons then -in being; and things designed from the best pieces of the rare paintings -and masters of which the Earl of Arundel was possessor, purchased and -collected in his travels with incredible expense: so as, though Hollar's -were but etched in aquafortis, I account the collection to be the most -authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the son of a gentleman near -Prague, in Bohemia, and my very good friend, perverted at last by the -Jesuits at Antwerp to change his religion; a very honest, simple, -well-meaning man, who at last came over again into England, where he -died. We have the whole history of the king's reign, from his trial in -Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration of King Charles II., -represented in several sculptures, with that also of Archbishop Laud, by -this indefatigable artist; besides innumerable sculptures in the works of -Dugdale, Ashmole, and other historical and useful works. I am the more -particular upon this for the fruit of that collection, which I wish I had -entire. - -This picture[9] I presented to my sister, being at her request, on my -resolution to absent myself from this ill face of things at home, which -gave umbrage to wiser than myself that the medal was reversing, and our -calamities but yet in their infancy: so that, on the 15th of July, having -procured a pass at the Custom-house, where I repeated my oath of -allegiance, I went from London to Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. -Caryll, a Surrey gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived by six -o'clock that evening, with a purpose to take the first opportunity of a -passage for Holland. But the wind as yet not favorable, we had time to -view the Block-house of that town, which answered to another over against -it at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous of Queen Elizabeth, in the year -1588, which we found stored with twenty pieces of cannon, and other -ammunition proportionable. On the 19th of July, we made a short excursion -to Rochester, and having seen the cathedral went to Chatham to see the -Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel of burden lately built there, being -for defense and ornament, the richest that ever spread cloth before the -wind. She carried an hundred brass cannon, and was 1,200 tons; a rare -sailer, the work of the famous Phineas Pett, inventor of the -frigate-fashion of building, to this day practiced. But what is to be -deplored as to this vessel is, that it cost his Majesty the affections of -his subjects, perverted by the malcontent of great ones, who took -occasion to quarrel for his having raised a very slight tax for the -building of this, and equipping the rest of the navy, without an act of -Parliament; though, by the suffrages of the major part of the Judges the -King might legally do in times of imminent danger, of which his Majesty -was best apprised. But this not satisfying a jealous party, it was -condemned as unprecedented, and not justifiable as to the Royal -prerogative; and, accordingly, the Judges were removed out of their -places, fined, and imprisoned.[10] - - [Footnote 9: His own portrait.] - - [Footnote 10: In such manner Evelyn refers to the tax of Ship-money. - But compare this remarkable passage, now first printed from the - original, with the tone in which, eight years later, he spoke of the - only chance by which monarchy in England might be saved; namely, - that of "doing nothing as to government but what shall be approved - by the old way of a free parliament, and the known laws of the - land."] - -We returned again this evening, and on the 21st of July embarked in a -Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, convoyed and accompanied by five other -stout vessels, whereof one was a man-of-war. The next day at noon, we -landed at Flushing. - -[Sidenote: DE VERE] - -Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,[11] which was then before Genep, -ere the summer should be too far spent, we went this evening from -Flushing to Middleburg, another fine town in this island, to De Vere, -whence the most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their -family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the state during their -wars. From De Vere we passed over many towns, houses, and ruins of -demolished suburbs, etc., which have formerly been swallowed up by the -sea; at what time no less than eight of those islands had been -irrecoverably lost. - - [Footnote 11: The meaning of this expression is, that they should be - in time to witness the siege.] - -The next day we arrived at Dort, the first town of Holland, furnished -with all German commodities, and especially Rhenish wines and timber. It -hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable church; a -stately senate house, wherein was holden that famous synod against the -Arminians in 1618; and in that hall hangeth a picture of "The Passion," -an exceeding rare and much-esteemed piece. - -From Dort, being desirous to hasten toward the army, I took wagon this -afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we were hurried in less than an hour, -though it be ten miles distant; so furiously do those Foremen drive. I -went first to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the -public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They showed us his house, -or rather the mean cottage, wherein he was born, over which there are -extant these lines, in capital letters: - - ÆDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS - ARTIBUS INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE. - -The 26th of July I passed by a straight and commodious river through -Delft to the Hague; in which journey I observed divers leprous poor -creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the brink of the water, and -permitted to ask the charity of passengers, which is conveyed to them in -a floating box that they cast out. - -Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of Bohemia's court, where -I had the honor to kiss her Majesty's hand, and several of the -Princesses', her daughters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out -of Germany; and my Lord Finch, not long before fled out of England from -the fury of the Parliament. It was a fasting day with the Queen for the -unfortunate death of her husband, and the presence chamber had been hung -with black velvet ever since his decease. - -[Sidenote: NIMEGUEN] - -The 28th of July I went to Leyden; and the 29th to Utrecht, being thirty -English miles distant (as they reckon by hours). It was now Kermas, or a -fair, in this town, the streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so -that early the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop's court, -and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curiosity till my return, and -better leisure. We then came to Rynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a -neat and well built palace, or country house, after the Italian manner, -as I remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon which this villa is -situated, lodged that night in a countryman's house. The 31st to -Nimeguen; and on the 2d of August we arrived at the Leagure, where was -then the whole army encamped about Genep, a very strong castle situated -on the river Waal; but, being taken four or five days before, we had only -a sight of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons -performed in Colonel Goring's regiment (eldest son of the since Earl of -Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned Roman, and -father-confessor to the Queen-mother). The evening was spent in firing -cannon and other expressions of military triumphs. - -Now, according to the compliment, I was received a volunteer in the -company of Captain Apsley, of whose Captain-lieutenant, Honywood (Apsley -being absent), I received many civilities. - -The 3d of August, at night, we rode about the lines of circumvallation, -the general being then in the field. The next day I was accommodated with -a very spacious and commodious tent for my lodging; as before I was with -a horse, which I had at command, and a hut which during the excessive -heats was a great convenience; for the sun piercing the canvas of the -tent, it was during the day unsufferable, and at night not seldom -infested with mists and fogs, which ascended from the river. - -6th August, 1641. As the turn came about, we were ordered to watch on a -horn-work near our quarters, and trail a pike, being the next morning -relieved by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the -castle was refortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured; -whence I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not far from our -quarters, where we found both the chapel and refectory full, crowded with -the goods of such poor people as at the approach of the army had fled -with them thither for sanctuary. On the day following, I went to view all -the trenches, approaches, and mines, etc. of the besiegers; and, in -particular, I took special notice of the wheel-bridge, which engine his -Excellency had made to run over the moat when they stormed the castle; as -it is since described (with all the other particulars of this siege) by -the author of that incomparable work, "Hollandia Illustrata." The walls -and ramparts of earth, which a mine had broken and crumbled, were of -prodigious thickness. - -Upon the 8th of August, I dined in the horse-quarters with Sir Robert -Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, and divers Cavaliers; where -there was very good cheer, but hot service for a young drinker, as then I -was; so that, being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies -and sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called, where -their quarters and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so -exactly observed, as few cities, the best governed in time of peace, -exceed it for all conveniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and -Camerades; and, on the 12th of August, I embarked on the "Waal," in -company with three grave divines, who entertained us a great part of our -passage with a long dispute concerning the lawfulness of church-music. We -now sailed by Teil, where we landed some of our freight; and about five -o'clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that had divers -English in garrison. It stands upon Contribution-land, which subjects the -environs to the Spanish incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong -fort called Lovestein, famous for the escape of the learned Hugo Grotius, -who, being in durance as a capital offender, as was the unhappy -Barneveldt, by the stratagem of his lady, was conveyed in a trunk -supposed to be filled with books only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong -and considerable frontier. - -13th August, 1641. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was their annual -mart or fair, so furnished with pictures (especially landscapes and -drolleries, as they call those clownish representations), that I was -amazed. Some of these I bought and sent into England. The reason of this -store of pictures, and their cheapness, proceeds from their want of land -to employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find a common -farmer lay out two or three thousand pounds in this commodity. Their -houses are full of them, and they vend them at their fairs to very great -gains. Here I first saw an elephant, who was extremely well disciplined -and obedient. It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as flexible and -nimble in the joints, contrary to the vulgar tradition, as could be -imagined from so prodigious a bulk and strange fabric; but I most of all -admired the dexterity and strength of its proboscis, on which it was able -to support two or three men, and by which it took and reached whatever -was offered to it; its teeth were but short, being a female, and not old. -I was also shown a pelican, or _onocratulas_ of Pliny, with its large -gullets, in which he kept his reserve of fish; the plumage was white, -legs red, flat, and film-footed, likewise a cock with four legs, two -rumps and vents: also a hen which had two large spurs growing out of her -sides, penetrating the feathers of her wings. - -17th August, 1641. I passed again through Delft, and visited the church -in which was the monument of Prince William of Nassau,--the first of the -Williams, and savior (as they call him) of their liberty, which cost him -his life by a vile assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting -of several figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the same -place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor, Maurice. The -senate-house hath a very stately portico, supported with choice columns -of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs -a weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which the -adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to wear on her -shoulders, her head peeping out at the top only, and so led about the -town, as a penance for her incontinence. From hence, we went the next day -to Ryswick, a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, for nothing -more remarkable than the delicious walks planted with lime trees, and the -modern paintings within. - -[Sidenote: HAGUE] - -[Sidenote: AMSTERDAM] - -19th August, 1641. We returned to the Hague, and went to visit the Hoff, -or Prince's Court, with the adjoining gardens full of ornament, close -walks, statues, marbles, grots, fountains, and artificial music. There is -to this palace a stately hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, -hung round with colors and other trophies taken from the Spaniards;[12] -and the sides below are furnished with shops. Next day (the 20th) I -returned to Delft, thence to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, where -immediately I mounted a wagon, which that night, late as it was, brought -us to Haerlem. About seven in the morning after I came to Amsterdam, -where being provided with a lodging, the first thing I went to see was a -Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday), whose ceremonies, ornaments, -lamps, law, and schools, afforded matter for my contemplation. The women -were secluded from the men, being seated in galleries above, shut with -lattices, having their heads muffled with linen, after a fantastical and -somewhat extraordinary fashion; the men, wearing a large calico mantle, -yellow colored, over their hats, all the while waving their bodies, while -at their devotions. From thence, I went to a place without the town, -called Overkirk, where they have a spacious field assigned them to bury -their dead, full of sepulchers with Hebraic inscriptions, some of them -stately and costly. Looking through one of these monuments, where the -stones were disjointed, I perceived divers books and papers lie about a -corpse; for it seems, when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his -books with him. With the help of a stick, I raked out several, written in -Hebrew characters, but much impaired. As we returned, we stepped in to -see the Spin-house, a kind of bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd -women are kept in discipline and labor, but all neat. We were shown an -hospital for poor travelers and pilgrims, built by Queen Elizabeth of -England; and another maintained by the city. - - [Footnote 12: Westminster hall used to be so in Term time, and - during the sitting of Parliament, as late as the beginning of the - reign of George III.] - -The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be perfected, will -be one of the most costly and magnificent pieces of architecture in -Europe, especially for the materials and the carvings. In the Doole is -painted, on a very large table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported -by four royal diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who hath set his name -thereon, 1st September, 1638. - -On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presbyterian congregation, -where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be sung, so -that all the congregation might see them without the bidding of a clerk. -I was told, that after such an age no minister was permitted to preach, -but had his maintenance continued during life. - -I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous to converse with the -sectaries that swarmed in this city, out of whose spawn came those almost -innumerable broods in England afterward. It was at a Brownist's house, -where we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my -Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee. Here I also found an -English Carmelite, who was going through Germany with an Irish gentleman. -I now went to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, -for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and poor children, where -they are taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to -housewifery, that men of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, -frequently take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the Rasp-house, -where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; and the rasping of brasil -and logwood for the dyers is very hard labor. To the Dool-house, for -madmen and fools. But none did I so much admire, as an Hospital for their -lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accommodations are very -great, the building answerable; and, indeed, for the like public -charities the provisions are admirable in this country, where, as no idle -vagabonds are suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child -of four or five years old, but they find some employment for it. - -It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse, or Exchange, after -their sermons were ended, to see the Dog-market, which lasts till two in -the afternoon, in this place of convention of merchants from all parts of -the world. The building is not comparable to that of London, built by -that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in one respect exceeding it, -that vessels of considerable burden ride at the very quay contiguous to -it; and indeed it is by extraordinary industry that as well this city, as -generally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs, -cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that nothing is more -frequent than to see a whole navy, belonging to this mercantile people, -riding at anchor before their very doors: and yet their streets even, -straight, and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with lime -trees, as nothing can be more beautiful. - -The next day we were entertained at a kind of tavern, called the -Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper rooms of -the house, were divers pretty waterworks, rising 108 feet from the -ground. Here were many quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, -noises of beasts, and chirping of birds; but what pleased me most was a -large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets, furnished all -with ordinary candles to appearance, out of the wicks spouting out -streams of water, instead of flames. This seemed then and was a rarity, -before the philosophy of compressed air made it intelligible. There was -likewise a cylinder that entertained the company with a variety of -chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of porcelain dishes, suited -to the tones and notes, without cracking any of them. Many other -waterworks were shown. - -The Kaiser's or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample and long street, -appearing like a city in a forest; the lime trees planted just before -each house, and at the margin of that goodly aqueduct so curiously -wharfed with Klincard brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which -nothing can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is built and -gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense charge, and -fitted for the most busy concourse of traffickers and people of commerce -beyond any place, or mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of -entrance into an issue of this town, composed of very magnificent pieces -of architecture, some of the ancient and best manner, as are divers -churches. - -The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular manner and -invention; the chimes of bells are so rarely managed, that being curious -to know whether the motion was from any engine, I went up to that of St. -Nicholas, where I found one who played all sorts of compositions from the -tablature before him, as if he had fingered an organ; for so were the -hammers fastened with wires to several keys put into a frame twenty feet -below the bells, upon which (by the help of a wooden instrument, not much -unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck on the keys -and played to admiration. All this while, through the clattering of the -wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, and noise that his wooden -gloves made, the confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the -musician, or any that stood near him, to hear anything at all; yet, to -those at a distance, and especially in the streets, the harmony and the -time were the most exact and agreeable. - -The south church is richly paved with black and white marble,--the west -is a new fabric; and generally all the churches in Holland are furnished -with organs, lamps, and monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and -impiety of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported them -in other places rather to act like madmen than religious. - -[Sidenote: HAERLEM] - -Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went among the booksellers, and visited the -famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop, to buy some maps, atlases, and other -works of that kind. At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells -and Indian curiosities; and so, toward the end of August, I returned -again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in length, straight as a line, -and of competent breadth for ships to sail by one another. They showed us -a cottage where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her -twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was prohibited to marry in -future; yet it could not be proved that she had ever made away with any -of her husbands, though the suspicion had brought her divers times to -trouble. - -Haerlem is a very delicate town and hath one of the fairest churches of -the Gothic design I had ever seen. There hang in the steeple, which is -very high, two silver bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in -Egypt, by an earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they are rung -out every evening. In the nave hang the goodliest branches of brass for -tapers that I have seen, esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the -workmanship; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not find they made -use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing psalms, -but only for show, and to recreate the people before and after their -devotions, while the burgomasters were walking and conferring about their -affairs. Near the west window hang two models of ships, completely -equipped, in memory of that invention of saws under their keels, with -which they cut through the chain of booms, which barred the port of -Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market, and made some -inquiry about the printing-house, the invention whereof is said to have -been in this town, I returned to Leyden. - -[Sidenote: LEYDEN] - -At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very -steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon, on -his return out of England, as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden -inundations. - -The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies buried the learned -and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without any extraordinary inscription, -who, having left the world a monument of his worth more lasting than -marble, needed nothing more than his own name; which I think is all -engraven on his sepulcher. He left his library to this University. - -28th August, 1641. I went to see the college and schools, which are -nothing extraordinary, and was complimented with a _matricula_ by the -_magnificus_ Professor, who first in Latin demanded of me where my -lodging in the town was, my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I -addicted myself; then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an -oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders of the -University while I stayed, and then delivered me a ticket, by virtue -whereof I was made excise-free; for all which worthy privileges, and the -pains of writing, he accepted of a rix-dollar. - -Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so longed to see, as well -as the no less famous printer, Elzevir's printing-house and shop, -renowned for the politeness of the character and editions of what he has -published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, well stored with -exotic plants, if the catalogue presented to me by the gardener be a -faithful register. - -But, among all the rarities of this place, I was much pleased with a -sight of their anatomy-school, theater, and repository adjoining, which -is well furnished with natural curiosities; skeletons, from the whale and -elephant to the fly and spider; which last is a very delicate piece of -art, to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender an insect) -could be separated from the mucilaginous parts of that minute animal. -Among a great variety of other things, I was shown the knife newly taken -out of a drunken Dutchman's guts, by an incision in his side, after it -had slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The pictures of the -chirurgeon and his patient, both living, were there. - -There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted. - -Returning to my lodging, I was showed the statue, cut in stone, of the -happy monk, whom they report to have been the first inventor of -typography, set over the door; but this is much controverted by others, -who strive for the glory of it, besides John Gutenberg. - -I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew, who had married an -apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions: he told me, among -other things, that the World should never end; that our souls -transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did penance -in the bodies of brutes after death,--and so he interpreted the -banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar: that all the Jews should -rise again, and be led to Jerusalem; that the Romans only were the -occasion of our Savior's death, whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be -a great prophet, but not the Messiah. He showed me several books of their -devotion, which he had translated into English, for the instruction of -his wife; he told me that when the Messiah came, all the ships, barks, -and vessels of Holland should, by the power of certain strange -whirlwinds, be loosed from their anchors, and transported in a moment to -all the desolate ports and havens throughout the world, wherever the -dispersion was, to convey their brethren and tribes to the Holy City; -with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow, but would by -no means handle any money (for something I purchased of him), it being -Saturday; but desired me to leave it in the window, meaning to receive it -on Sunday morning. - -1st September, 1641. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two days after -back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of horseman's armor, which I caused -to be made to fit me. I now rode out of town to see the monument of the -woman, pretended to have been a countess of Holland, reported to have had -as many children at one birth, as there are days in the year. The basins -were hung up in which they were baptized, together with a large -description of the matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in the -church of Lysdun, a desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to see one -of the Prince's Palaces, called the Hoff Van Hounsler's Dyck, a very fair -cloistered and quadrangular building. The gallery is prettily painted -with several huntings, and at one end a gordian knot, with rustical -instruments so artificially represented, as to deceive an accurate eye to -distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of the staircase is -painted with the "Rape of Ganymede," and other pendant figures, the work -of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which I -afterward parted with to my brother George of Wotton, where it now hangs. -To this palace join a fair garden and park, curiously planted with limes. - -8th September, 1641. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delftshaven and -Sedan, where were at that time Colonel Goring's winter quarters. This -town has heretofore been very much talked of for witches. - -10th September, 1641. I took a wagon for Dort, to be present at the -reception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager of France, widow -of Henry the Great, and mother to the French King, Louis XIII., and the -Queen of England, whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the -various fortune of her life. From this city, she designed for Cologne, -conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr Van Bredrod. At this -interview, I saw the Princess of Orange, and the lady her daughter, -afterward married to the House of Brandenburgh. There was little -remarkable in this reception befitting the greatness of her person; but -an universal discontent, which accompanied that unlucky woman wherever -she went. - -12th September, 1641. I went toward Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on the -16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing, with innumerable -hands, and incomparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the -fens and morasses about it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and -the like; in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe. Here -were now sixteen companies and nine troops of horse. They were also -cutting a new river, to pass from the town to a castle not far from it. -Here we split our skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of -the master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little hazard. At our -arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the Governor, where our names were -taken, and our persons examined very strictly. - -17th September, 1641. I was permitted to walk the round and view the -works, and to visit a convent of religious women of the order of St. -Clara (who by the capitulation were allowed to enjoy their monastery and -maintenance undisturbed, at the surrender of the town twelve years -since), where we had a collation and very civil entertainment. They had a -neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleves, their founder, -lies inhumed under a plate of brass. Within the cloister is a garden, and -in the middle of it an overgrown lime tree, out of whose stem, near the -root, issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or bolls, the like -whereof for evenness and height I had not observed. - -The chief church of this city is curiously carved within and without, -furnished with a pair of organs, and a most magnificent font of copper. - -18th September, 1641. I went to see that most impregnable town and fort -of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one Colonel Crombe, the -lieutenant-governor, who would needs make me accept the honor of being -captain of the watch, and to give the word this night. The fortification -is very irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for strength -and situation in the Netherlands. We departed toward Gorcum. Here Sir -Kenelm Digby, traveling toward Cologne, met us. - -The next morning, the 19th, we arrived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, -where they catch innumerable quantities of fowl. - -[Sidenote: ROTTERDAM] - -22d September, 1641. I went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass which I -expected from Brussels, securing me through Brabant and Flanders, -designing to go into England through those countries. The Cardinal -Infante, brother to the King of Spain, was then governor. By this pass, -having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon the 24th of -September I departed through Dort; but met with very bad tempestuous -weather, being several times driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor -off Keele, other vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and -26th we made other essays; but were again repulsed to the harbor, where -lay sixty vessels waiting to sail. But, on the 27th, we, impatient of the -time and inhospitableness of the place, sailed again with a contrary and -impetuous wind and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy; for we had much -ado to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking desperately on -our vessel: we were driven into Williamstadt, a place garrisoned by the -English, where the governor had a fair house. The works, and especially -the counterscarp, are curiously hedged with quick, and planted with a -stately row of limes on the rampart. The church is of a round structure, -with a cupola, and the town belongs entirely to the Prince of Orange, as -does that of Breda, and some other places. - -28th September, 1641. Failing of an appointment, I was constrained to -return to Dort for a bill of exchange; but it was the 1st of October ere -I could get back. At Keele, I numbered 141 vessels, who durst not yet -venture out; but, animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small -encounter of weather, we arrived by four that evening at Steenbergen. In -the passage we sailed over a sea called the Plaats, an exceeding -dangerous water, by reason of two contrary tides which meet there very -impetuously. Here, because of the many shelves, we were forced to tide it -along the Channel; but, ere we could gain the place, the ebb was so far -spent, that we were compelled to foot it at least two long miles, through -a most pelting shower of rain. - -2d October, 1641. With a gentleman of the Rhyngraves, I went in a cart, -or tumbrel (for it was no better; no other accommodation could be -procured), of two wheels and one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting by the -way divers parties of his Highness's army now retiring toward their -winter quarters; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands along the harbor. -The fort was heretofore built by the English. - -The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of horse -which was offered me. The tide being against us, we landed short of the -fort on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could -gain the dyke, which, being five or six miles from Lillo, we were forced -to walk on foot very wet and discomposed; and then entering a boat we -passed the ferry, and came to the castle. Being taken before the -Governor, he demanded my pass, to which he set his hand, and asked two -rix-dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbitant in a -soldier of his quality. I told him that I had already purchased my pass -of the commissaries at Rotterdam; at which, in a great fury, snatching -the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, and -bade me try whether I could get to Antwerp without his permission: but I -had no sooner given him the dollars, then he returned the passport -surlily enough, and made me pay fourteen Dutch shillings to the cantone, -or searcher, for my contempt, which I was glad to do for fear of further -trouble, should he have discovered my Spanish pass, in which the States -were therein treated by the name of rebels. Besides all these exactions, -I gave the commissary six shillings, to the soldiers something, and, ere -perfectly clear of this frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war, -who lay blocking up the river between Lillo and the opposite sconce -called Lifkinshoeck. - -[Sidenote: ANTWERP] - -4th October, 1641. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of one of -which, St. Mary's port, came a Don on board us, to whom I showed my -Spanish pass, which he signed, and civilly dismissed us. Hence, sailing -by another man-of-war, to which we lowered our topsails, we at length -arrived at Antwerp. - -The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little time; -but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner, our conductor, we visited divers -churches, colleges, and monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most -sumptuous and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and within, wholly -incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished into divers representations of -histories, landscapes, and flowers. On the high altar is placed the -statue of the Blessed Virgin and our Savior in white marble, with a boss -in the girdle set with very fair and rich sapphires, and divers other -stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of architecture: the -pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and -rare pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive tables and -relics. Hence, to the Vroù Kirk, or Nôtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very -venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, -which I ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent; -which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly bright, and -darted his rays without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection -to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water -about it, that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of -some such substance as this earthly globe: perceiving all the subjacent -country, at so small an horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as -I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other large water -within our view, appeared of a more dark and uniform color; resembling -those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, according to Hevelius, -and as they appear in our late telescopes. I numbered in this church -thirty privileged altars, that of St. Sebastian adorned with a painting -of his martyrdom. - -We went to see the Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by one -who, upon divers great wagers, passed to and fro between that city and -Antwerp, on foot, by which he procured large sums of money, which he -bestowed on this pious structure.[13] Hence, to St. Mary's Chapel, where -I had some conference with two English Jesuits, confessors to Colonel -Jaye's regiment. These fathers conducted us to the Cloister of Nuns, -where we heard a Dutch sermon upon the exposure of the Host. The -Senate-house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent building. - - [Footnote 13: This notice, slipped by accident into the entries - which refer to Antwerp, belongs to those of Bruges.] - -5th October, 1641. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of -their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided into four -classes, with several inscriptions over each: as, first, _Ad majorem Dei -gloriam_; over the second, _Princeps diligentiæ_; the third, _Imperator -Byzantiorum_; over the fourth and uppermost, _Imperator Romanorum_. Under -these, the scholars and pupils and their places, or forms with titles and -priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings -above were exceedingly neat. They have a prison for the offenders and -less diligent; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves in, is an -aviary, and a yard, where eagles, vultures, foxes, monkeys, and other -animals are kept, to divert the boys withal at their hours of remission. -To this school join the music and mathematical schools, and lastly a -pretty, neat chapel. The great street is built after the Italian mode, in -the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix of white and black -marble, greater than the life. This is a very fair and noble street, -clean, well paved, and sweet to admiration. - -The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a stately -palace, adorned with more than 300 windows. From hence, walking into the -Gun-garden, I was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is permitted -to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern fortification, -accommodated with lodgments for the soldiers and magazines. The graffs, -ramparts, and platforms are stupendous. Returning by the shop of -Plantine, I bought some books, for the namesake only of that famous -printer. - -But there was nothing about this city which more ravished me than those -delicious shades and walks of stately trees, which render the fortified -works of the town one of the sweetest places in Europe; nor did I ever -observe a more quiet, clean, elegantly built and civil place, than this -magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. In the evening, I was invited to -Signor Duerte's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, -whose palace I found to be furnished like a prince's. His three daughters -entertained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental, which was -finished with a handsome collation. I took leave of the ladies and of -sweet Antwerp, as late as it was, embarking for Brussels on the Scheldt -in a vessel, which delivered us to a second boat (in another river) drawn -or towed by horses. In this passage, we frequently changed our barge, by -reason of the bridges thwarting our course. Here I observed numerous -families inhabiting their vessels and floating dwellings, so built and -divided by cabins, as few houses on land enjoyed better accommodation; -stored with all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlor, and -kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing. The rivers on which -they are drawn are very clear and still waters, and pass through a most -pleasant country on both the banks. We had in our boat a very good -ordinary, and excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for twenty -English miles. What I much admired was, near the midway, another -artificial river, which intersects this at right angles, but on an -eminence of ground, and is carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above -the other as that the waters neither mingle, nor hinder one another's -passage. - -We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the passengers went on -shore to wash at a fountain issuing out of a pillar, and then came -aboard again. On the margin of this long tract are abundance of shrines -and images, defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone -wherein they are placed. - -[Sidenote: BRUSSELS] - -7th October, 1641. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the morning. The -Stadt-house, near the market place, is, for the carving in freestone, a -most laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The -flesh-shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small -engines, by which a girl, or boy, was able to draw up, or let down, great -bridges, which in divers parts of this city crossed the channel for the -benefit of passengers. The walls of this town are very entire, and full -of towers at competent distances. The cathedral is built upon a very high -and exceeding steep ascent, to which we mounted by fair steps of stone. -Hence I walked to a convent of English Nuns, with whom I sat discoursing -most part of the afternoon. - -8th October, 1641. Being the morning I came away, I went to see the -Prince's Court, an ancient, confused building, not much unlike the Hofft, -at the Hague: there is here likewise a very large hall, where they vend -all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed -rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or catafalque, of -the late Archduchess, the wise and pious Clara Eugenia. Out of this we -were conducted to the lodgings, tapestried with incomparable arras, and -adorned with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breugel, -Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late actions in the -Netherlands. - -By an accident we could not see the library. There is a fair terrace -which looks to the vineyard, in which, on pedestals, are fixed the -statues of all the Spanish kings of the house of Austria. The opposite -walls are painted by Rubens, being an history of the late tumults in -Belgia: in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of gates -upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and in a menacing posture; -which, with that other of the Infanta taking leave of Don Philip IV., is -a most incomparable table. - -From hence, we walked into the park, which for being entirely within the -walls of the city is particularly remarkable: nor is it less pleasant -than if in the most solitary recesses; so naturally is it furnished with -whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. Here is a -stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, rocks, -grots; one whereof is composed of the extravagant roots of trees, -cunningly built and hung together with wires. In this park are both -fallow and red deer. - -From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of that into a most -sweet and delicious garden, where was another grot of more neat and -costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us with -artificial music; but the hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which -the fountaineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, exceedingly -pleased and surprised me; for thus, with a pervious wall, or rather a -palisade hedge of water, was the whole parterre environed. - -There is likewise a fair aviary; and in the court next it are kept divers -sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl, as eagles, cranes, storks, -bustards, pheasants of several kinds, and a duck having four wings. In -another division of the same close are rabbits of an almost perfect -yellow color. - -There was no Court now in the palace; the Infante Cardinal, who was the -Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one in deep -mourning. - -At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's agent, Sir Henry de -Vic, who very courteously received me, and accommodated me with a coach -and six horses, which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to -meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who had requested me -when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went not thither myself. - -Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full of gallant -persons (for in this small city, the acquaintance being universal, ladies -and gentlemen, I perceived had great diversions, and frequent meetings), -I hastened toward Ghent. On the way, I met with divers little wagons, -prettily contrived, and full of peddling merchandise, drawn by mastiff -dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach horses; in some four, in -others six, as in Brussels itself I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I -remember, four dogs draw five lusty children in a chariot: the master -commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streets. -After passing through Ouse, by six in the evening, I arrived at Ghent. -This is a city of so great a circumference, that it is reported to be -seven leagues round; but there is not half of it now built, much of it -remaining in fields and desolate pastures even within the walls, which -have strong gates toward the west, and two fair churches. - -Here I beheld the palace wherein John of Gaunt and Charles V. were born; -whose statue[14] stands in the market-place, upon a high pillar, with his -sword drawn, to which (as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were -wont to repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about their -necks, in token of submission and penance for an old rebellion of theirs; -but now the hemp is changed into a blue ribbon. Here is planted the -basilisco, or great gun, so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt -meeting in this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands, which are -united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I supped -with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest. - - [Footnote 14: That of Charles V.] - -8th October, 1641. I passed by a boat to Bruges, taking in at a redoubt a -convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the other side of the river, being -Contribution-land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the -bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis Spinola, and -is in my judgment a wonderful piece of labor, and a worthy public work, -being in some places forced through the main rock, to an incredible -depth, for thirty miles. At the end of each mile is built a small -redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, -from whence we received many volleys of shot, in compliment to my Lord -Marshal, who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At five that -evening, we were met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey -my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained that night. - -The morning after we went to see the Stadt-house and adjoining aqueduct, -the church, and market-place, where we saw cheeses and butter piled up in -heaps; also the fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large. - -The 9th, we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial river. Here, -with leave of the captain of the watch, I was carried to survey the -river and harbor, with fortifications on one side thereof: the east and -south are mud and earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately -stood a memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks, and three -days. I went to see the church of St. Peter, and the cloisters of the -Franciscans. - -10th October, 1641. I went by wagon, accompanied with a jovial -commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On -our arrival, we first viewed the court of guards, the works, the -townhouse, and the new church; the latter is very beautiful within; and -another, wherein they showed us an excellent piece of "Our Savior's -Bearing the Cross." The harbor, in two channels, coming up to the town, -was choked with a multitude of prizes. - -From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles toward the packet -boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns, which embarked us for England -about three in the afternoon. - -[Sidenote: DOVER] - -At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace anchored saluted my -Lord Marshal with twelve great guns, which we answered with three. Not -having the wind favorable, we anchored that night before Calais. About -midnight, we weighed; and, at four in the morning, though not far from -Dover, we could not make the pier till four that afternoon, the wind -proving contrary and driving us westward: but at last we got on shore, -October the 12th. - -From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. Here I visited the -cathedral, then in great splendor; those famous windows being entire, -since demolished by the fanatics. The next morning by Sittingbourne, I -came to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light-horseman (as -they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From -hence, after we had a little refreshed ourselves at the College (for by -reason of contagion then in London we balked the inns), we came to -London, landing at Arundel stairs. Here I took leave of his Lordship, and -retired to my lodgings in the Middle Temple, being about two in the -morning, the 14th of October. - -16th October, 1641. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of -that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the -23d), I was one and twenty years of age. - -7th November, 1641. After receiving the Sacrament at Wotton church, I -visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. - -23d November, 1641. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his -Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of Scotland, and a -Peace proclaimed, with great acclamations and joy of the giddy people. - -15th December, 1641. I was elected one of the Comptrollers of the Middle -Temple revellers, as the fashion of the young students and gentlemen was, -the Christmas being kept this year with great solemnity; but, being -desirous to pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of -office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton. - -10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton, of Ditton. - -19th January, 1642. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th of March, -studying a little, but dancing and fooling more. - -3d October, 1642. To Chichester, and hence the next day to see the siege -of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody difference between the King and -Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many years -after. It was on the day of its being rendered to Sir William Waller; -which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Colonel Goring, the -governor, now embarking for France. This day was fought that signal -battle at Edgehill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester, where I -visited the castle, school, church, and King Arthur's Round Table; but -especially the church, and its Saxon kings' monuments, which I esteemed a -worthy antiquity. - -The 12th of November was the battle of Brentford, surprisingly fought; -and to the great consternation of the City, had his Majesty (as it was -believed he would) pursued his advantage. I came in with my horse and -arms just at the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than the -15th, by reason of the army marching to Gloucester; which would have left -both me and my brothers exposed to ruin, without any advantage to his -Majesty. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th December, 1642. I went from Wotton to London, to see the so much -celebrated line of communication, and on the 10th returned to Wotton, -nobody knowing of my having been in his Majesty's army. - -10th March, 1643. I went to Hartingford-berry to visit my cousin, -Keightly. - -11th March, 1643. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at -Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the house (inferior -to few then in England for its architecture), were the garden and -vineyard, rarely well watered and planted. They also showed us the -picture of Secretary Cecil, in Mosaic work, very well done by some -Italian hand. - -I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the night before, namely, -a shining cloud in the air, in shape resembling a sword, the point -reaching to the north; it was as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky -being very serene. It began about eleven at night, and vanished not till -above one, being seen by all the south of England. I made many journeys -to and from London. - -15th April, 1643. To Hatfield, and near the town of Hertford I went to -see Sir J. Harrison's house new built. Returning to London, I called to -see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theobald's, since demolished by -the rebels. - -2d May, 1643. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw the furious and -zealous people demolish that stately Cross in Cheapside. - -On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the confusion that -threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in some quiet, if it might be, -in a time of so great jealousy, I built by my brother's permission, a -study, made a fish-pond, an island, and some other solitudes and -retirements at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving them to -those waterworks and gardens which afterward succeeded them, and became -at that time the most famous of England. - -12th July, 1643. I sent my black menage horse and furniture with a friend -to his Majesty, then at Oxford. - -23d July, 1643. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself; but, -finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and -which had been a great cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between -Wotton and London, October the 2d, I obtained a license of his Majesty, -dated at Oxford and signed by the King, to travel again. - -6th November, 1643. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph -Whitfield's, at Blechingley (whither both my brothers had conducted me), -I arrived at London on the 7th, and two days after took boat at the -Tower-wharf, which carried me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without -danger, I being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm: but -it pleased God that we got in before the peril was considerable. From -thence, I went by post to Dover, accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a -very dear friend of mine. - -11th November, 1643. Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather -was snowy and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went -on shore, mistaking the tide, our shallop struck on the sands, with no -little danger; but at length we got off. - -Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place, in the old -castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The haven consists of a long -bank of sand, lying opposite to it. The market place and the church are -remarkable things, besides those relics of our former dominion there. I -remember there were engraven in stone, upon the front of an ancient -dwelling which was showed us, these words in English--"God save the -King," together with the name of the architect and date. The walls of the -town are substantial; but the situation toward the land is not pleasant, -by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it. - -12th November, 1643. After dinner we took horse with the Messagere, -hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; but there fell so great a -snow, accompanied with hail, rain, and sudden darkness, that we had much -ado to gain the next village; and in this passage, being to cross a -valley by a causeway, and a bridge built over a small river, the rain -that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for near a quarter of a -mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perishing. We -none of us went to bed; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in -the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morning, -between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early, we arrived at -Boulogne. - -This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high rock, or downs; -the other, called the lower town, is yet with a great declivity toward -the sea; both of them defended by a strong castle, which stands on a -notable eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet but an -inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII., in the siege of this place is said to -have used those great leathern guns which I have since beheld in the -Tower of London, inscribed, "_Non Marte opus est cui non deficit -Mercurius_"; if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert -doubts. - -The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish] surprising us, we -came to Montreuil, built on the summit of a most conspicuous hill, -environed with fair and ample meadows; but all the suburbs had been from -time to time ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads. -This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches; the walls about -the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. The church is more -glorious without than within; the market place large; but the inhabitants -are miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville, having passed all -this way in continual expectation of the volunteers, as they call them. -This town affords a good aspect toward the hill from whence we descended: -nor does it deceive us; for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant -and useful streams passing through it, the main river being the Somme, -which discharges itself into the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the -town. The principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic -architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted for defense and -ornament. In the morning, they brought us choice of guns and pistols to -sell at reasonable rates, and neatly made, being here a merchandise of -great account, the town abounding in gunsmiths. - -[Sidenote: ST. DENIS] - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good note, and having the -first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to -Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great -city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathedral, and the -dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed as ours at Westminster -Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in Europe. The church -was built by King Dagobert,[15] but since much enlarged, being now 390 -feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without comprehending the -cover: it has also a very high shaft of stone, and the gates are of -brass. Here, while the monks conducted us, we were showed the ancient and -modern sepulchers of their kings, beginning with the founder to Louis his -son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and father of Charlemagne. These -lie in the choir, and without it are many more: among the rest that of -Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France; in the chapel of Charles V., -all his posterity; and near him the magnificent sepulcher of Francis I., -with his children, wars, victories, and triumphs engraven in marble. In -the nave of the church lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII., -Henry II., a noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are bodies -of several Saints; below, under a state of black velvet, the late Louis -XIII., father of this present monarch. Every one of the ten chapels, or -oratories, had some Saints in them; among the rest, one of the Holy -Innocents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in which are -crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of -gold three feet high, set with sapphires, rubies, and great oriental -pearls. Another given by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in -the middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value. Among the still -more valuable relics are, a nail from our Savior's Cross, in a box of -gold full of precious stones; a crucifix of the true wood of the Cross, -carved by Pope Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold; a -box in which is some of the Virgin's hair; some of the linen in which our -blessed Savior was wrapped at his nativity; in a huge reliquary, modeled -like a church, some of our Savior's blood, hair, clothes, linen with -which he wiped the Apostles' feet; with many other equally authentic -toys, which the friar who conducted us would have us believe were -authentic relics. Among the treasures is the crown of Charlemagne, his -seven-foot high scepter and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal -mantle, beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of -gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious stones, among which -is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carats (under -which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Savior's crown), his -sword, seal, and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his -scepter, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his son Louis. In -the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby. Divers -books covered with solid plates of gold, and studded with precious -stones. Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed for its -bigness, color, and embossed carving, the best now to be seen: by a -special favor I was permitted to take the measure and dimensions of it; -the story is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus; a very holy thing -truly, and fit for a cloister! It is really antique, and the noblest -jewel there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge urn of -porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx, the largest I had ever -seen of that stone; two of crystal; a morsel of one of the waterpots in -which our Savior did his first miracle; the effigies of the Queen of -Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon -sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians: that of the queen of Saba[16] -has a Moorish face; those of Julius and Nero on agates are rarely colored -and cut. A cup in which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a -great amethyst. There lay in a window a mirror of a kind of stone said to -have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charlemagne's chessmen, full of Arabic -characters. In the press next the door, the brass lantern full of -crystals, said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our -blessed Savior. A fair unicorn's horn, sent by a king of Persia, about -seven feet long. In another press (over which stands the picture in oil -of their Orleans Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French -kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes; with a -world of other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous friar, we took -horse for Paris, where we arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way -were fair crosses of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong's -end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his head after -martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We -lay at Paris at the Ville de Venice; where, after I had something -refreshed, I went to visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident -with the French king. - - [Footnote 15: A. D. 630.] - - [Footnote 16: Or Sheba.] - -5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary: -I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsieur -de Bassompière, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, -and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the -ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais -Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French king, and the -queen Regent his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence, -I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took my leave. - -24th December, 1643. I went with some company to see some remarkable -places without the city: as the Isle, and how it is encompassed by the -Rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is divided into three parts, whereof -the town is greatest. The city lies between it and the University in form -of an island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun -by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV. his successor. It is all of -hewn freestone found under the streets, but more plentifully at -Montmartre, and consists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the -point of an island, on which are built handsome artificers' houses. There -is one large passage for coaches, and two for foot passengers three or -four feet higher, and of convenient breadth for eight or ten to go -abreast. On the middle of this stately bridge, on one side, stands the -famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural -proportion by much; and, on the four faces of a stately pedestal (which -is composed of various sorts of polished marbles and rich moldings), -inscriptions of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in -brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of the great John di -Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the -Second, uncle and cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of King Henry, -whose statue it represents. The place where it is erected is inclosed -with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always -mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a -rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du -Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on -the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the -woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very rare -dial of several motions, with a chime, etc. The water is conveyed by huge -wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence -of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the -bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there -are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, -with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. -Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of -wood, having likewise a water house in the midst of it, and a statue of -Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior -to the Samaritan. - -The University lies southwest on higher ground, contiguous to, but the -lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no less than sixty-five colleges; but -they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The -booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more -hereafter) are very regular. - -The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. -Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and -where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly -Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are -built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most gallant -cities in the world; large in circuit, of a round form, very populous, -but situated in a bottom, environed with gentle declivities, rendering -some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled -with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot -square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London. - -On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre Dame, erected by -Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists -of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in -the church round about the choir, without comprehending the chapels, -being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The choir is inclosed with -stonework graven with the sacred history, and contains forty-five chapels -chancelled with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in -relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to the -founder, Philip; and above them are two high square towers, and another -of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the -church forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps, having -twelve galleries from one to the other. They greatly reverence the -crucifix over the screen of the choir, with an image of the Blessed -Virgin. There are some good modern paintings hanging on the pillars. The -most conspicuous statute is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher; -with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects and rocks, about this -gigantic piece; being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulk than -any other perfection. This is the prime church of France for dignity, -having archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good store, -to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the archbishop. The young -king was there with a great and martial guard, who entered the nave of -the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was -entertained with the church music; and so I left him. - -4th January, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr. J. Wall, an Irish -gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain, and afterward a reader in St. -Isodore's chair, at Rome; but was, I know not how, getting away, and -pretending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as -he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. It is certain he was an -excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could pass -him. He would needs persuade me to go with him this morning to the -Jesuits' College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers -in their Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them showed us that -noble fabric, which for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of marble, the -pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatorium, etc., but -above all, for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to be -one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even -some of the greatest now at Rome itself. But this not being what our -friar sought, he led us into the adjoining convent, where, having shown -us the library, they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity, -which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and to that -indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, -they being put beside all patience. The next day, we went into the -University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious, -well-built quadrangle, having a very noble library. - -Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one Robert de -Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restoration which the late -Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent -modern buildings; the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far -superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the -church, are very magnificent. - -We entered into some of the schools, and in that of divinity we found a -grave Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as -he dictates; and this they call a Course. After we had sat a little, our -cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the doctor; -at which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in -Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell -into such a fit of laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a -while: but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and made his -apology in so good a style, that their derision was turned to admiration; -and beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with universal -applause they all rose up, and did him great honors, waiting on us to the -very street and our coach, and testifying great satisfaction. - -2d February, 1644. I heard the news of my nephew George's birth, which -was on January 15th, English style, 1644. - -3d February, 1644. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the -buildings is very noble; but the galleries where they sell their petty -merchandise nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place -where they walk below, being only a low vault. - -The Palaise, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip -the Fair, noble and spacious. The great Hall annexed to it, is arched -with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round which, and at -the sides, are shops of all kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is -full of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here (as ours at -Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which mass is said -daily. Within are several chambers, courts, treasuries, etc. Above that -is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the chamber of St. -Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament sits, richly gilt -on embossed carvings and frets, and exceedingly beautified. - -Within the place where they sell their wares, is another narrower -gallery, full of shops and toys, etc., which looks down into the -prison-yard. Descending by a large pair of stairs, we passed by Sainte -Chapelle, which is a church built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic -manner: it stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by -pillars at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extraordinary in -the artist. This chapel is most famous for its relics, having as they -pretend, almost the entire crown of thorns: the agate patine, rarely -sculptured, judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was now a -very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is very spacious, capable -of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shops, especially -engravers', goldsmiths', and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and -portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, -whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by goldsmiths. -Within the court are private dwellings. The front, looking on the great -bridge, is possessed by mountebanks, operators, and puppet-players. On -the other part, is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, -especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange trees, choice shrubs. Here is a -shop called NOAH'S ARK, where are sold all curiosities, natural or -artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, -ivory, porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand -exotic extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dauphine, an arch -of excellent workmanship; the street bearing the same name, is ample and -straight. - -4th February, 1644. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are a noble -church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templar, now -converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large -and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable -palaces. - -The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, dedicated to -another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the -English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands -on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons -regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle of stately -palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area, stands on a -noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in -imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as -that on the Pont Neuf. - -The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honoré, is an excellent -foundation; but above all is the Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre -Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité -gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the -sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by -noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and -fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great success, -yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to have been built by Julius -Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong -prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent. - -8th February, 1644. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine -Royale, which is an inclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of -ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, -having in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and -is richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre is a -fair fountain. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, -and other accommodations for the President, who is always one of the -king's chief physicians. - -From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and to some distance -from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which is the -fortress, tower, and magazine of this great city. It is very spacious -within, and there the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with -fair gardens and walks. - -The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle, with -magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting the chapel. -It is the chief prison for persons of quality. About it there is a park -walled in, full of deer; and in one part there is a grove of goodly pine -trees. - -The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its several -courts and pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Henry IV., and -finished by his son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The -cornices, moldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several -colored marbles, have been of great expense. - -We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble, -richly fretted and painted _à fresco_. The front looking to the river, -though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which -a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it. - -In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the winding geometrical -stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble a piece of -architecture as any in Europe of the kind. To this is a _corps de logis_, -worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings, through a garden in -which is an ample fountain, was the king's printing house, and that -famous letter so much esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic -authors, poets, and others. - -We returned through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where hung -the pictures of all the kings and queens and prime nobility of France. - -Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large room, called the -_Salle des Antiques_, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destined for statues -only, among which stands that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said -to be the same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. Besides -these colossean figures of marble, I must not forget the huge globe -suspended by chains. The pavings, inlayings, and incrustations of this -Hall, are very rich. - -In another more private garden toward the Queen's apartment is a walk, or -cloister, under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a great -breadth; it looks toward the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, -stately cypresses, etc. On the river are seen a prodigious number of -barges and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, and -other commodities, which this vast city daily consumes. Under the long -gallery we have described, dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and -architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom have -stipends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur Saracin we -entered, who was then molding for an image of a Madonna to be cast in -gold of a great size to be sent by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an -offering for the birth of the Dauphin, now the young King. - -I finished this day with a walk in the great garden of the Tuileries, -rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by groves, plantations -of tall trees, especially that in the middle, being of elms, the other of -mulberries; and that labyrinth of cypresses; not omitting the noble -hedges of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; but, above -all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so distinctly; and, as it -is never without some fair nymph singing to its grateful returns; -standing at one of the focuses, which is under a tree or little cabinet -of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds; at another, as if -it was underground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we were let -into another, which being kept with all imaginary accurateness as to the -orangery, precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a -terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think -could be maintained in the whole city, going, late as it was in the year, -toward the course, which is a place adjoining, of near an English mile -long, planted with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the -middle. This course is walled about, near breast high, with squared -freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and -statues about it, built by Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants -and ladies of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with us in -Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing a hundred coaches to -turn commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for five or six -coaches abreast. - -Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in which are kept wild -beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, -etc. - -[Sidenote: ST. CLOUD] - -27th February, 1644. Accompanied with some English gentlemen, we took -horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately country house of the King, -some five leagues from Paris. By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud, -where, on an eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a -garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and -furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are very fair; -the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water -near forty feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and -basins, and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed than the -cascade falling from the great steps into the lowest and longest walk -from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on -the summit of the hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to -wet the spectators; this is covered with a fair cupola, the walls painted -with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are -antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to -enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious -contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer -walls only painted _à fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues -of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, -mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under -shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, -with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well painted; and thence -an excellent prospect toward Paris, the meadows, and river. - -At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the great persons in -princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I -have done. Indeed, the entertainment is very splendid, and not -unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat, -and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revelings, as -being out of all noise and observance. - -[Sidenote: ST. GERMAINS] - -From hence, about a league further, we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's -villa, at Ruell. The house is small, but fairly built, in form of a -castle, moated round. The offices are toward the road, and over against -it are large vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the -greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I doubt whether -Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities of pleasure. The garden -nearest the pavilion is a parterre, having in the midst divers noble -brass statues, perpetually spouting water into an ample basin, with other -figures of the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast -inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing -vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof one is of perennial -greens), and walks of vast length, so accurately kept and cultivated, -that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a -square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the -fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move -round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the -Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the -end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large -as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in -painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The sky and hills, -which seem to be between the arches, are so natural, that swallows and -other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the -wall. I was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the further -part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial cascade, which -rolls down a very steep declivity, and over the marble steps and basins, -with an astonishing noise and fury; each basin hath a jetto in it, -flowing like sheets of transparent glass, especially that which rises -over the great shell of lead, from whence it glides silently down a -channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk, terminating in a -grotto. Here are also fountains that cast water to a great height, and -large ponds, two of which have islands for harbor of fowls, of which -there is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them built of -vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, grown over with moss, ivy, -etc., shaded at a competent distance with tall trees: in this rupellary -nidary do the fowl lay eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare -grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild fancies: in -the middle stands a marble table, on which a fountain plays in divers -forms of glasses, cups, crosses, fans, crowns, etc. Then the fountaineer -represented a shower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below. -At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a stream of water -from their musket barrels. Before this grotto is a long pool into which -ran divers spouts of water from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this -paradise made us late at St. Germains. - -The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called the Sage; but -Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it complete; speaking as to the -style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too great a mixture -of the Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in the -old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old foundation, and having -a moat about it. It has yet some spacious and handsome rooms of state, -and a chapel neatly painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided -from this by a court, of a lower, but more modern design, built by Henry -IV. To this belong six terraces, built of brick and stone, descending in -cascades toward the river, cut out of the natural hill, having under them -goodly vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots and -rocks, where are represented several objects in the manner of scenes and -other motions, by force of water, shown by the light of torches only; -among these, is Orpheus with his music; and the animals, which dance -after his harp; in the second, is the King and Dolphin;[17] in the third, -is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot drawn by sea horses; in the -fourth, the story of Perseus and Andromeda; mills; hermitages; men -fishing; birds chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry grot -to refresh in; all having a fine prospect toward the river, and the -goodly country about it, especially the forest. At the bottom, is a -parterre; the upper terrace nearly half a mile in length, with double -declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost. - - [Footnote 17: Dauphin.] - -In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms, well painted, and -leading into a very noble garden and park, where is a pall-mall, in the -midst of which, on one of the sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, -though small, yet of a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park -you go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with deer, wild -boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court, and Cavallerizzo, -for the menaged horses, are also observable. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by -Francis I., and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he -would not go from Madrid (in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from -whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and -walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes, well situated, with a -fair chapel and library. - -1st March, 1644. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue -de Seine, which is well built. Toward his study and bedchamber joins a -little garden, which, though very narrow, by the addition of a -well-painted perspective, is to appearance greatly enlarged; to this -there is another part, supported by arches in which runs a stream of -water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for -some miles, by being artificially continued in the painting, when it -sinks down at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceit. At the end of this -garden is a little theater, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and -the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women painted on light -boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act -as if they were speaking, by guiding them, and reciting words in -different tones, as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, -where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining divers -sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper. - -In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting of Poussin, being -a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of the Virgin, by -Paulo Veronese; another Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by -Cigali; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said to -be of Michael Angelo; the Rape of Proserpine, with a very large landscape -of Correggio. In the next room are some paintings of Primaticcio, -especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well -painted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the Cardinal de -Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely colored. In the cabinet are divers pieces -of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of Paulo Brill, the skies a little too -blue. A Madonna of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of -Mantegna; three women of Jeronimo; one of Stenwick; a Madonna after -Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count esteems it: two -small pieces of Paulo Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and -St. Catherine; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King; six -more of old Bassano; two excellent drawings of Albert; a Magdalen of -Leonardo da Vinci; four of Paulo; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given -him also by our King; the _Ecce Homo_, shut up in a frame of velvet, for -the life and accurate finishing exceeding all description. Some curious -agates, and a chaplet of admirable invention, the intaglios being all on -fruit stones. The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs make -his lady go out of her dressing room, that he might show us the -curiosities and pictures in it. - -We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of the greatest -virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, agates, medals, and -flowers, especially tulips and anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings -was a Sebastian, of Titian. - -From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who showed us many rare drawings, a -Rape of Helen in black chalk; many excellent things of Sneiders, all -naked; some of Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; some -things of Parmensis, and other masters. - -The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur de Hausse, President -of the Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French King, we -were very civilly received, and showed his library. Among his paintings -were a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony, after the first -manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna of Palma. - -Sunday, the 6th of March, I went to Charenton, two leagues from Paris, to -hear and see the manner of the French Protestant Church service. The -place of meeting they call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, -built of freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the Tables of -the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The pulpit stands at the upper end -in the middle, having an inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders -and persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit; the rest of the -congregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as in our -churches, to their great disgrace, as nothing so orderly, as here the -stools and other cumber are removed when the assembly rises. I was -greatly pleased with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all -learn perfectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as their -catechism. - -In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the Marne, where that -renowned echo returns the voice of a good singer nine or ten times. - -7th March, 1644. I set forward with some company toward Fontainebleau, a -sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours at Hampton Court, about -fourteen leagues from the city. By the way, we pass through a forest so -prodigiously encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped -one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is nowhere -to be found more horrid and solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves, -boars, and not long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed among them, which -had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy -precipices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over, -and menacing ruin, is built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues -frequently lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well appointed -with our carabines); but we arrived safe in the evening at the village, -where we lay at the Horne, going early next morning to the Palace. - -This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hampton Court, but -Francis I. began much to beautify it; most of all Henry IV. (and not a -little) the late King. It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and -galleries; in the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are -painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV. That of Francis I., -called the grand Gallery, has all the King's palaces painted in it; above -these, in sixty pieces of excellent work in fresco, is the History of -Ulysses, from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III., esteemed -the most renowned in Europe for the design. The Cabinet is full of -excellent pictures, especially a Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the -Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally, -representing the victories of Charles VII. over our countrymen. In the -Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horseback, of -white marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Clementia and Pax, nobly -done. On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs, and a -half circular court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a chapel -built by Louis XIII., all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble -through the inside. - -Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has a cupola in the -middle of it, great trees and bushes, it being full of birds who drank at -two fountains. There is also a fair tennis court, and noble stables; but -the beauty of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains stand -divers antiquities and statues, especially a Mercury. In the Queen's -Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numerous other brass statues. - -The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the center a -fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brass, with the Wolf over -Romulus and Remus. At each corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the -garden of the piscina, is a Hercules of white marble; next, is that of -the pines, and without that a canal of an English mile in length, at the -end of which rise three jettos in the form of a fleur-de-lis, of a great -height; on the margin are excellent walks planted with trees. The carps -come familiarly to hand (to be fed). Hence they brought us to a spring, -which they say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of -beautifying this place, both with the palace and gardens. The white and -terrific rocks at some distance in the forest, yield one of the most -august and stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this place is -very large, and the town full of noblemen's houses. - -Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was keeper of the -pictures and rarities, to see his own collection. We were led through a -gallery of old Rosso's work, at the end of which, in another cabinet, -were three Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In the -Academy where the painter himself wrought, was a St. Michael of Raphael, -very rare; St. John Baptist of Leonardo, and a Woman's head; a Queen of -Sicily, and St. Margaret of Raphael; two more Madonnas, whereof one very -large, by the same hand; some more of del Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino -del Vaga; the Rape of Proserpine, very good; and a great number of -drawings. - -Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited a house called -_Maison Rouge_, having an excellent prospect, grot, and fountains, one -whereof rises fifty feet, and resembles the noise of a tempest, battle of -guns, etc., at its issue. - -Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a great virtuoso; -there are many good paintings in it; but nothing so observable as his -gardens, fountains, fish-pools, especially that in a triangular form, the -water cast out by a multitude of heads about it; there is a noble -cascade and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a marble table -is a fountain of serpents twisting about a globe. - -We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege by Henry IV. -Here we slept, and returned next morning to Paris. - -18th March, 1644. I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridgeshire Knight, a -journey into Normandy. The first day, we passed by Gaillon, the -Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, but we -did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This town is built -in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oise, and is well -refreshed with fountains. - -This is the first town in Normandy, and the furthest that the vineyards -extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of plains, wood, -and inclosures, with some towns toward the sea, very like England. - -[Sidenote: ROUEN] - -We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next day, descending a -very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after riding five leagues down St. -Catherine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of -that chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with wolves that a -shepherd whom we met, told us one of his companions was strangled by one -of them the day before, and that in the midst of his flock. The fields -are mostly planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It is -plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in -abundance. - -I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very large city, on the -Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, called the Aubette and Robec. -There stand yet the ruins of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied -by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden. -The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the -Reformed a church. - -The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; -some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to -confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three -steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous bell so much -talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty-two round, the diameter -eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds. - -In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, -with several fair monuments. The choir has behind it a great dragon -painted on the wall, which they say had done much harm to the -inhabitants, till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop; for which -there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, and many images -were exposed with scenes and stories representing the Passion; made up of -little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, with -offerings. Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another goodly -church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when -he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court -of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls -and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well -built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are -of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city. - -21st March, 1644. On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a solitary inn -between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter place we arrived. This town is -situated between two mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the -north by our English seas. - -The port is commodious; but the entrance difficult. It has one very ample -and fair street, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet consists of -a strong earth-work, and commands the haven, as on the other side does -the castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before it; nor -is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with workmen, who make and -sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the -East Indies afford of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities, -are here to be had, with abundant choice. - -23d March, 1644. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and rugged -way, which forced us to alight many times before we came to Havre de -Grace, where we lay that night. - -The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and regular, well stored -with artillery and ammunition of all sorts: the works furnished with fair -brass cannon, having a motto, _Ratio ultima Regum_. The allogements of -the garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, -a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu -being now in the fort, we went to salute him; who received us very -civilly, and commanded that we should be showed whatever we desired to -see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, uncle of -the present Duke, and may be esteemed one of the strongest in France. The -haven is very capacious. - -When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and horses to pass to -Honfleur, about four or five leagues distant, where the Seine falls into -the sea. It is a poor fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the -odd, yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears' and other -skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these maritime coasts. - -[Sidenote: CAEN] - -25th March, 1644. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful town, situate -on the river Orne, which passes quite through it, the two sides of the -town joined only by a bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel, -where we were very well used, the place being abundantly furnished with -provisions, at a cheap rate. The most considerable object is the great -Abbey and Church, large and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having -two spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. The choir -round and large, in the center whereof elevated on a square, handsome, -but plain sepulcher, is this inscription: - - "Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, - Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque - Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno - 1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem - nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam - beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a^o D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne - de Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D." - -On the other side are these monkish rhymes: - - "Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos - Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, - Et Cenomanensis virtute coërcuit ensis, - Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. - Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ, - Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. - Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus - Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hic obiit." - -We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so is the -town-house, built on the bridge which unites the two towns. Here are -schools and an University for the Jurists. - -The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well known -by that name in England. I was led to a pretty garden, planted with -hedges of alaternus, having at the entrance a screen at an exceeding -height, accurately cut in topiary work, with well understood -architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and other -ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the columns curiously wreathed, -others spiral, all according to art. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -28th March, 1644. We went toward Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, -a Bishop's seat, an ancient town, with a fair cathedral; so the next day -we arrived at Paris. - -1st April, 1644. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the fine Palace -of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary di Medicis, -and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finished piles that is to -be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The -gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the -Foundress's Life, rarely designed; at the end of it is the Duke of -Orleans' library, well furnished with excellent books, all bound in -maroquin and gilded, the valance of the shelves being of green velvet, -fringed with gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller -volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent collection of -shells and agates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being -very learned in medals and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. -There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, which look -toward the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest. - -The court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over the -chief entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone: the rest is -cloistered and arched on pilasters of rustic work. The terrace ascending -before the front, paved with white and black marble, is balustered with -white marble, exquisitely polished. - -Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat of a heavy design, -but the facia toward the parterre which is also arched and vaulted with -stone, is of admirable beauty and full of sculpture. - -The gardens are near an English mile in compass, inclosed with a stately -wall, and in a good air. The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely -designed and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful -effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into four squares and -as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin of marble near -thirty feet in diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass holds -a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty feet high, playing -perpetually, the water being conveyed from Arceuil by an aqueduct of -stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre, -the spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone, adorned -with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it near the steps of the -terrace, with a rail and baluster of pure white marble. - -The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descending and so justly -planted with limes, elms, and other trees, that nothing can be more -delicious, especially that of the hornbeam hedge, which being high and -stately, buts full on the fountain. - -Toward the further end, is an excavation intended for a vast fish-pool, -but never finished, and near it is an inclosure for a garden of simples, -well kept; and here the Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the -pool of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conservatory for -snow. At the upper part, toward the palace, is a grove of tall elms cut -into a star, every ray being a walk, whose center is a large fountain. - -The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures (all hedge-work or -rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows, bocages, some of them containing -divers acres. - -Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house, are knots in -trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a fountain. Toward the grotto -and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choice flowers, in which the -duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanted to render -this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magnificent; nor is it -one of the least diversions to see the number of persons of quality, -citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom all access is freely -permitted, so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of -gallants and ladies; in others melancholy friars; in others, studious -scholars; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on the grass, -others running and jumping; some playing at bowls and ball, others -dancing and singing; and all this without the least disturbance, by -reason of the largeness of the place. - -What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men at work, and yet all -is kept in such exquisite order, as if they did nothing else but work; it -is so early in the morning, that all is dispatched and done without the -least confusion. - -I have been the larger in the description of this paradise, for the -extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweet retirements. The -Cabinet and Chapel nearer the garden-front have some choice pictures. All -the houses near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite -Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from its breadth, -situation, and buildings. - -I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques' steeple, esteemed -the highest in the town, from whence I had a full view of the whole city -and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as London: though -the dissimilitude of their several forms and situations, this being -round, London long,--renders it difficult to determine; but there is no -comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being -entirely of stone and more sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to -exceed theirs. - -Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard, where the story of the -devouring quality of the ground (consuming bodies in twenty-four hours), -the vast charnels of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchers, took up much -of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas -Flamel's philosophical work, who had founded this church, and divers -other charitable establishments, as he testifies in his book. - -Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters for poor -maids and other ignorant people who come to them for advice, and to write -for them into the country, both to their sweethearts, parents, and -friends; every large gravestone serving for a table. Joining to this -church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it. - -The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious -collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels of all sorts of -precious stones, most of them of great sizes and value; agates and -onyxes, some of them admirably colored and antique; nor inferior were his -landscapes from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copied -in miniature; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken by one of -our company, by the mischance of setting it up: but such was the temper -and civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his free and -noble humor. - -The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden of Monsieur Morine, -who, from being an ordinary gardener, is become one of the most skillful -and curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, -and insects. - -His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypress, cut flat and -set as even as a wall: the tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, -etc., are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that -kind to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage at -one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain and coral, -whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is much esteemed. He has -also books of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, etc. His -collection of all sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most -curious; these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption invading -them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to represent a beautiful -piece of tapestry. - -He showed me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which he -promised to publish. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he had -caused to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil. - -6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,[18] -which she requested of me, and went to see divers of the fairest palaces -of the town, as that of Vendôme, very large and stately; Lougueville; -Guise; Condé; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris -toward the river. - - [Footnote 18: In the first and second editions of the "Diary" many - trifling personal details, such as this mention of the author having - sent his own picture in water colors to his sister, were omitted. It - is not necessary to point them out in detail. They are always of - this personal character; as, among other examples, the mention of - the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, and that - of his coming weary to his lodgings.] - -I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the King, -on condition that it should be called by his name; at this time, the King -resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble -house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of the most -illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's baths, presence-chamber -with its rich carved and gilded roof, theater, and large garden, in which -is an ample fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also -frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great horse, especially -at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, whose schools of that -art are frequented by the nobility; and here also young gentlemen are -taught to fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification and -the mathematics. The design is admirable, some keeping near a hundred -brave horses, all managed to the great saddle. - -12th April, 1644. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the _gens -d'armes_ about the city, in the Bois de Boulogne, before their Majesties -and all the Grandees. They were reputed to be near 20,000, besides the -spectators, who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all -their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, into several figures, -represented a battle. - -[Sidenote: ORLEANS] - -The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend the rest of it in some -more remote town on the river Loire; and, on 19th of April, I took leave -of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to -Orleans. - -The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the roads in France, -is paved with a small square freestone, so that the country does not much -molest the traveler with dirt and ill way, as in England, only 'tis -somewhat hard to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more -temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or _grand pas_, as they call -it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages; among others of note, -Chartres and Etampes, where we lay the first night. This has a fair -church. The next day, we had an excellent road; but had liked to come -short home: for no sooner were we entered two or three leagues into the -Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company -behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and -frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain -of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This -disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt -Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they -had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would -take cognizance of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this -escape; when coming to Orleans and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr. -John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. In the night a cat kittened -on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, two -bodies from the middle downward, and two tails. I found it dead, but -warm, in the morning when I awaked. - -21st April, 1644. I went about to view the city, which is well built of -stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle of the river is an -island, full of walks and fair trees, with some houses. This is -contiguous to the town by a stately stone bridge, reaching to the -opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a -beautiful prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong -towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin -Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At -one side of the cross, kneels Charles VII., armed, and at the other Joan -d'Arc, armed also like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair -disheveled, as the deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they -besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedestal full of -inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned -with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it -were) from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross -are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos á contagione, labis et -æternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes -profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab -impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. -f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ liberavit. A Domino factum -est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc -nostræ fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of -May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and -concourse of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's -cup bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the King any of -it: but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into other -countries. The town is much frequented by strangers, especially Germans, -for the great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers -other privileges, and the University, which causes the English to make no -long sojourn here, except such as can drink and debauch. The city stands -in the county of Bealse (Blaisois); was once styled a Kingdom, afterward -a Duchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. Many -Councils have been held here, and some Kings crowned. The University is -very ancient, divided now by the students into that of four nations, -French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardines, who have each their -respective protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, etc. -There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries, whence one may -borrow a book to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, which is an -extraordinary custom, and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear. -The first church I went to visit was St. Croix; it has been a stately -fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars. They report the tower -of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning of a -fair reparation. About this cathedral there is a very spacious cemetery. -The townhouse is also very nobly built, with a high tower to it. The -market place and streets, some whereof are deliciously planted with -limes, are ample and straight, so well paved with a kind of pebble, that -I have not seen a neater town in France. In fine, this city was by -Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions. - -28th April, 1644. Taking boat on the Loire, I went toward Blois, the -passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at -Baugenci, and slept at a little town called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, -we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house of the -King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a solitary park, full of -deer, inclosed with a wall. I was particularly desirous of seeing this -palace, from the extravagance of the design, especially the staircase, -mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly -employed in this fabric for twelve years: if so, it is wonderful that it -was not finished, it being no greater than divers gentlemen's houses in -England, both for room and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and -full. The staircase is devised with four entries, or assents, which cross -one another, so that though four persons meet, they never come in sight, -but by small loopholes, till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I -remember), and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense than -use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear like so many towers. -About the whole is a large deep moat. The country about is full of corn, -and wine, with many fair noblemen's houses. - -[Sidenote: BLOIS] - -We arrived at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and -rugged, standing on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joined by a -stately stone bridge, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the -entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as -large as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these words: - - "Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, - Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu; - Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis! - Gallica non alio principe digna fuit." - -Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of wolves and -wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gaston had begun a -fair building, through which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for -its furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic -plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand is a -long gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of marble and -brass; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower -ground, having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a hart, -taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-four antlers on its -head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Savior, we saw many sepulchres of -the Earls of Blois. - -On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall Mall, very long, and so -noble shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a great wood), that -unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier. - -From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoining -forest, to see if we could meet any wolves, which are here in such -numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streets; -yet will not the Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be -destroyed. We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; yet a -gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, with his horse grazing -by him, told us that half an hour before, two wolves had set upon his -horse, and had in probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by -him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we ate excellent cream, -and visited a castle builded on a very steep cliff. - -Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken; the inhabitants -very courteous; the air so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of the -King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's work -and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the -river are very rich and pleasant. - -2d May, 1644. We took boat again, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on -the left hand; before it is a sweet island, deliciously shaded with tall -trees. A little distance from hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very -agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue -slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the castle chiefly -invited us, the thickness of whose towers from the river to the top, was -admirable. We entered by the drawbridge, which has an invention to let -one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers, -and one staircase is large enough, and sufficiently commodious, to -receive a coach, and land it on the very tower, as they told us had been -done. There is some artillery in it; but that which is most observable is -in the ancient chapel, viz, a stag's head, or branches, hung up by -chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's -middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I -cannot conceive how it should be artificial they show also the ribs and -vertebræ of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone. - -Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village having no houses -above ground but such only as are hewn out of the main rocks of excellent -freestone. Here and there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface -among the vineyards which are over them, and in this manner they inhabit -the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side of the river for many -miles. - -[Sidenote: TOURS] - -We now came within sight of Tours, where we were designed for the rest of -the time I had resolved to stay in France, the sojournment being so -agreeable. Tours is situate on the east side of a hill on the river -Loire, having a fair bridge of stone called St. Edme; the streets are -very long, straight, spacious, well built, and exceeding clean; the -suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city by another bridge. Both -the church and monastery of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, -having four square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they -show the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. The Mall -without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having -seven rows of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the -innermost of which do so embrace each other, and at such a height, that -nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here we played a party, or -party or two, and then walked about the town walls, built of square -stone, filled with earth, and having a moat. No city in France exceeds it -in beauty, or delight. - -6th May, 1644. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been built by our -countrymen; the dial and clockwork are much esteemed. The church has two -handsome towers and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble -and venerable. To this joins the palace of the Archbishop, consisting -both of old and new building, with many fair rooms, and a fair garden. -Here I grew acquainted with one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The -Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other churches, -chapels, and monasteries for the most part neatly built, and full of -pretty paintings, especially the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a -prospect over the whole city, and many fair walks. - -8th May, 1644. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in this town -they drive a very considerable trade with silk-worms), their pressing and -watering the grograms and camlets, with weights of an extraordinary -poise, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language, -and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at -the Mall, and sometimes about the town. The house opposite my lodging had -been formerly a King's palace; the outside was totally covered with -fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her -Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of -the great Cardinal. - -25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the -religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and -their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and -pictures in abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of -pageantry, banners, and bravery. - -6th June, 1644. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abbey -of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in the kingdom; to it is a very -ample church of stone, with a very high pyramid. Among other relics the -Monks showed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that which sacres -their Kings at Rheims, this being the one that anointed Henry IV. -Ascending many steps, we went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were -showed a vast tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report St. -Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing there. - -7th June, 1644. We walked about two miles from the city to an agreeable -solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to the King. It has many -pretty gardens, full of nightingales; and, in the chapel, lies buried the -famous poet, Ronsard. - -Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, -where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis à -Paula, whose ashes lie in their chapel, with this inscription: "_Corpus -Sancti Fran. à Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno -1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent_." The tomb has four small -pyramids of marble at each corner. - -9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so artificially -planted and supported with arched poles, that stooping down one might see -from end to end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches -hanging down in abundance. - -20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called -Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is a spring within the bowels of -the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with -some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, which hangs -about it like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and -sugar plums, as we call them. - -Near this, we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted with -candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole city, by a -passage cut through the main rock of freestone. - -28th June, 1644. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, a -sweet place. - -30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbé, to -the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by -the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from -whence the country and river yield a most incomparable prospect. - -27th July, 1644. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who have here a -school and convent, but a mean chapel. We have now store of those -admirable melons, so much celebrated in France for the best in the -kingdom. - -1st August, 1644. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in Biscao, having -misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him; he demanded of me (besides his -wages) no less than 100 crowns to carry him to his country; refusing to -pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest me; -the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our avocats pleaded -before the Lieutenant Civil; but it was so unreasonable a pretense, that -the Judge had not patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately -acquitted me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part with my -servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous excuse to me, -that being a stranger I should be so used, he conducted me through the -court to the street-door. This varlet afterward threatened to pistol me. -The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for his great -civility. - -18th August, 1644. The Queen of England came to Tours, having newly -arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly received by -the people and clergy, who went to meet her with the trained bands. -After the harangue, the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I -paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. - -8th September, 1644. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, -where I settled them in their pension and exercises. - -14th September, 1644. We took post for Richelieu, passing by l'Isle -Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we arrived, and went to see -the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The town is built in a low, marshy -ground, having a narrow river cut by hand, very even and straight, -capable of bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one -considerable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the -town) built exactly uniform, after a modern handsome design. It has a -large goodly market house and place, opposite to which is the church -built of freestone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from -the towers. The church is well built, and of a well-ordered architecture, -within handsomely paved and adorned. To this place belongs an Academy, -where, besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, etc., all the -sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors stipendiated by -the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living there, and divers -privileges, not only designed the improvement of the vulgar language, but -to draw people and strangers to the town; but since the Cardinal's death, -it is thinly inhabited; standing so much out of the way, and in a place -not well situated for health, or pleasure. He was allured to build by the -name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors. -This pretty town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind of -slight fortification, two fair gates and drawbridges. Before the gate, -toward the palace, is a spacious circle, where the fair is annually kept. -About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely -pile, though on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and -environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished -with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all -sorts of antiquities, especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The -long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder; the roof -with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing -theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel -anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample. -The gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excellent -embroidery, set with many statues of brass and marble; the groves, -meadows, and walks are a real Paradise. - -16th September, 1644. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen -weeks' sojourn, we traveled toward the more southern part of France, -minding now to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my -friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven -leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and -now belonging to the Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the -gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio -Africanus, of oriental alabaster. - -[Sidenote: BOURGES] - -21st September, 1644. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and so -by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was twenty leagues. The next -day by Murg to Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is the -capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on -the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense; -is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. -In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which -they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which -they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with -great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well -built _à la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the -representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they -show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served -six kings of France in their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that -at Paris, full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a giant -of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John, Duke of Berry, and there -is showed the coronet of the dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for -defense of the town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified -with graffs and works; there is a garrison in it, and a strange engine -for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where Louis, Duke of -Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near the Town-house stands the College -of Jesuits, where was heretofore an Amphitheater. I was courteously -entertained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we fell into -disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. Bourges is an -Archbishopric and Primacy of Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, -and some other English there; and, on the 23d, proceeded on my journey by -Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, thirteen leagues. - -24th September, 1644. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins, where -we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbonnois, on the river Allier, -very navigable. The streets are fair; the castle has a noble prospect, -and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden. -After dinner, came many who offered knives and scissors to sell; it being -a town famous for these trifles. This Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily -assigned for the dowry of the Queens of France. - -Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village, where we lay that -night. The next day, we went somewhat out of the way to see the town of -Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived the -name of the present Royal Family of France. The castle stands on a flinty -rock, overlooking the town. In the midst of the streets are some baths of -medicinal waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly -walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire; and indeed they are chiefly -used to drink of, our Queen being then lodged there for that purpose. -After dinner, I went to see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion, -where is kept one of the thorns of our Savior's crown, and a piece of the -real cross; excellent paintings on glass, and some few statues of stone -and wood, which they show for curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La -Palise, a village that lodged us that night. - -26th September, 1644. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our guide, -and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me one of the pleasantest and -most agreeable places imaginable, for a retired person: for, besides the -situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and -abundant. It being late when we left this town, we rode no further than -Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a -valley near a pleasant stream, encompassed with fresh meadows and -vineyards. The hills which we rode over before we descended, and -afterward, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and mountainous; fir -and pines growing frequently on them. The air methought was much altered -as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after -the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a landscape of this -pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent tempest of thunder and -lightning. - -[Sidenote: LYONS] - -27th September, 1644. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but six -leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five leagues from Tours -in seven days. Here at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of -my acquaintance, who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We lost -no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to accompany these -gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is excellently situated on the -confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhone, which wash the walls of the -city in a very rapid stream; each of these has its bridge; that over the -Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high cliffs, called St. -Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately; on one of them stands a strong -fort, garrisoned. We visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of -the fairest clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The fabric -of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. Etienne and St. -Croix. From the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we -beheld the whole city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps, -many leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church -of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here -are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time -to visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm -people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, -and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing. -The place of the _Belle Cour_ is very spacious, observable for the view -it affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, -gardens, precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advantages -presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is set with fair trees. In -fine, this stately, clean, and noble city, built all of stone, abounds -in persons of quality and rich merchants: those of Florence obtaining -great privileges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two tables -of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech, pronounced to the -Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with the Roman -privileges. There are also other antiquities. - -30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon -on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an -Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of -France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of -truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog trained to it, -and for which those animals are sold at a great price. It is in truth an -incomparable meat. We were shown the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty -entire; and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius Pilate, not -far from the town, at the foot of a solitary mountain, near the river, -having four pinnacles. Here it is reported he passed his exile, and -precipitated himself into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, -and seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very pleasant, -though melancholy place. The cathedral of Vienne is St. Maurice; and -there are many other pretty buildings, but nothing more so, than the -mills where they hammer and polish the sword blades. - -Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that the -boat was only steered) to a small village called Thein, where we dined. -Over against this is another town, named Tournon, where is a very strong -castle under a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College, -who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting, that I could not -forbear designing it with my crayon. - -We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the title of a Duchy; -but the Bishop is now sole Lord temporal of it, and the country about it. -The town having a University famous for the study of the civil law, is -much frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, having been -greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The streets are full of pretty -fountains. The citadel is strong and garrisoned. Here we passed the -night, and the next morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of -twenty-two arches; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were, to -receive the water when it is high and full. Here we went on shore, it -being very dangerous to pass the bridge in a boat. - -[Sidenote: AVIGNON] - -Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a distance the town -and principality of Orange; and, lodging one night on the way, we arrived -at noon at Avignon. This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the -time of Clement V.; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen of Naples -and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at the guard took our -pistols and carbines, and examined us very strictly; after that, having -obtained the Governor's and the Vice-Legate's leave to tarry three days, -we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, and -divided from the newer part, or town, which is on the other side of the -river, by a very fair stone bridge (which has been broken); at one end is -a very high rock, on which is a strong castle well furnished with -artillery. The walls of the city are of large, square freestone, the most -neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-built palaces; -those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop being the most magnificent. There -are many sumptuous churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. -Martial, wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most -observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celestines, the altar -whereof is exceedingly rich: but for nothing I more admired it than the -tomb of Madonna Laura, the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the -Arsenal, the Pope's palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here are -distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the -solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the castle; but could not go to -visit it for want of time, being now taking mules and a guide for -Marseilles. - -We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix, having passed that -extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this tract, all the -heaths, or commons, are covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and -the like sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was very -pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a Parliament and -Presidential town, with other royal Courts and Metropolitan jurisdiction. -It is well built, the houses very high, and the streets ample. The -Cathedral, St. Savior's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable -figures; especially that of St. Michael; the Baptisterie, the Palace, the -Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. The Duke of -Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many antiquities in -and about it. The Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a -University. - -7th October, 1644. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, through -a country sweetly declining to the south and Mediterranean coasts, full -of vineyards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and -the like sweet plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to -the number of above 1,500, built all of freestone, and in prospect -showing as if they were so many heaps of snow dropped out of the clouds -among those perennial greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates -that we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising -ground, well walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys, -secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbor at pleasure; and -there is a well-fortified tower with three other forts, especially that -built on a rock; but the castle commanding the city is that of Notre Dame -de la Garde. In the chapel hung up are divers crocodiles' skins. - -We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-five in number; the -Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us most courteous entertainment in his -cabin, the slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft music very -rarely. Then he showed us how he commanded their motions with a nod, and -his whistle making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and strange, -to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, their heads being -shaven close, and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvas -drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained about their -middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to their seats, and all -commanded in a trice by an imperious and cruel seaman. One Turk among the -rest he much favored, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no other -dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his leg, but not coupled. -This galley was richly carved and gilded, and most of the rest were very -beautiful. After bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a -band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged. I was amazed to -contemplate how these miserable caitiffs lie in their galley crowded -together; yet there was hardly one but had some occupation, by which, as -leisure and calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as some -of them have, after many years of cruel servitude, been able to purchase -their liberty. The rising-forward and falling-back at their oar, is a -miserable spectacle, and the noise of their chains, with the roaring of -the beaten waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one -unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by strokes on their -backs and soles of their feet, on the least disorder, and without the -least humanity, yet are they cheerful and full of knavery. - -After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where is that saint's -head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600 pounds. Thence to Notre -Dame, exceedingly well built, which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke -of Guise's Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi; but -nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves working in the -streets, and carrying burdens, with their confused noises, and jingling -of their huge chains. The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs -out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are brought -hither in great numbers. The town is governed by four captains, has three -consuls, and one assessor, three judges royal; the merchants have a judge -for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and -consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of the Picaroon -Turks, who make prize of any small vessels about these parts; we not -finding a galley bound for Genoa, whither we were designed. - -[Sidenote: PERIGUEUX] - -9th October, 1644. We took mules, passing the first night very late in -sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot where they affirmed Mary -Magdalen did her penance. The next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built -on an old foundation; witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre, -which I went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the town; they -call it now the Rolsies. There is also a strong tower near the town, -called the Visone, but the town and city are at some distance from each -other. It is a bishopric; has a cathedral with divers noblemen's houses -in sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum Julij, well -known by antiquaries. - -10th October, 1644. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct. The -soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. - -11th October, 1644. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the -Mediterranean; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and, -having procured a bill of health (without which there is no admission at -any town in Italy), we embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of -St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spaniards with great -bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having paid some small duty, we bought -some trifles offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore. -Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is the utmost town -in France. Thence by Nice, a city in Savoy, built all of brick, which -gives it a very pleasant appearance toward the sea, having a very high -castle which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called Monaco, having -passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus Herculis, when, arriving after the -gates were shut, we were forced to abide all night in the barge, which -was put into the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning, we were -hastened away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go -up and see this strong and considerable place, which now belongs to a -prince of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and -himself under the protection of the French. The situation is on a -promontory of solid stone and rock. The town walls very fair. We were -told that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnished with the -most rich and princely movables, and a collection of statues, pictures, -and massy plate to an immense amount. - -[Sidenote: SAVONA] - -We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first city of the republic -of Genoa; supped at Oneglia, where we anchored and lay on shore. The next -morning, we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where -the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and date trees; -we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning by Diano, Araisso, famous for -the best coral fishing, growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and -continually covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair and -strong town belonging to the King of Spain, for which reason a monsieur -in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was the patron of our bark, for -they frequently catch French prizes as they creep by these shores to go -into Italy; he therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the -protection of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and in -whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona, a town built at the -rise of the Apennines: for all this coast (except a little of St. Remo) -is a high and steep mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, -without any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange -object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast on the -declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend -to them. The rock consists of all sorts of the most precious marbles. - -Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, we encountered a little foul -weather, which made us creep _terra, terra_, as they call it, and so a -vessel that encountered us advised us to do; but our patron, striving to -double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into great -hazard; for blowing very hard from land between those horrid gaps of the -mountains, it set so violently, as raised on the sudden so great a sea, -that we could not recover the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch -that, what with the water already entered, and the confusion of fearful -passengers (of which one was an Irish bishop, and his brother, a priest, -were confessing some as at the article of death), we were almost -abandoned to despair, our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now, -as we were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking, -it pleased God on the sudden to appease the wind, and with much ado and -great peril we recovered the shore, which we now kept in view within half -a league in sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those -fragrant orchards which are on this coast, full of princely retirements -for the sumptuousness of their buildings, and nobleness of the -plantations, especially those at St. Pietro d'Arena; from whence, the -wind blowing as it did, might perfectly be smelt the peculiar joys of -Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers -leagues seaward.[19] - - [Footnote 19: Evelyn seems to have been much enchanted by the - fragrancy of the air of this coast, for he has noticed it again in - his dedication of the "Fumifugium," to Charles the Second.] - -[Sidenote: GENOA] - -16th October, 1644. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch-tower, -built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being -still so foul that for two hours at least we durst not stand into the -haven. Toward evening we adventured, and came on shore by the -Prattique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we were -had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names being taken, we were -conducted to our inn, kept by one Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never -forget a story of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, -told us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed solemnly, -in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the West Indies, that he swam -no less than twenty-two leagues to another island, with a tinderbox -wrapped up in his hair, which was not so much as wet all the way; that -picking up the carpenter's tools with other provisions in a chest, he and -the carpenter, who accompanied him (good swimmers it seems both), floated -the chest before them; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, -they built another vessel, and so escaped! After this story, we no more -talked of our danger; Zachary put us quite down. - -17th October, 1644. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called -Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The city is built in the hollow or -bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is very steep, high, and rocky, so -that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a -theater; the streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as our -seats are in the playhouses; but, from their materials, beauty, and -structure, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor -is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-designed and stately -palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio -which the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has published, though -it contains [the description of] only one street and two or three -churches. - -The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, to -which we passed by boat across the harbor. Here I could not but observe -the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us was -intercepted by another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and -took us in; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in -his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, showing it to his -antagonist as an assurance to him of some bloody revenge, if ever he came -near that part of the harbor again. Indeed this beautiful city is more -stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders, than any one place -in Europe, or haply in the world, where there is a political government, -which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a -knife whose point is not broken off. - -This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest pictures; on -the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees, among -which are sheep, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a -gray stone; fountains, rocks, and fish ponds; casting your eyes one way, -you would imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country; sideways, -in the heart of a great city; and backward, in the midst of the sea. All -this is within one acre of ground. In the house, I noticed those -red-plaster floors which are made so hard, and kept so polished, that for -some time one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I have -frequently wondered that we never practiced this [art] in England for -cabinets and rooms of state, for it appears to me beyond any invention of -that kind; but by their carefully covering them with canvass and fine -mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they are not lasting -there in glory, and haply they are often repaired. - -There are numerous other palaces of particular curiosities, for the -marchands being very rich, have, like our neighbors, the Hollanders, -little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in; as those in -pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich -furniture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince -Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit of the mountains. The -house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnished -within, having whole tables and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them -set with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, torquoises, and -other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. To this -palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with a -terrace, supported by pillars of marble; there is a fountain of eagles, -and one of Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white marble; -they stand in a most ample basin of the same stone. At the side of this -garden is such an aviary as Sir Francis Bacon describes in his "_Sermones -Fidelium_," or "Essays," wherein grow trees of more than two feet -diameter, besides cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other rare shrubs, -which serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air and -place enough under their airy canopy, supported with huge iron work, -stupendous for its fabric and the charge. The other two gardens are full -of orange trees, citrons, and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and -statues. One of the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the -sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family -received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a year, during the life of that -faithful animal. The reservoir of water here is a most admirable piece of -art; and so is the grotto over against it. - -We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court of -Justice; thence to the Merchant's Walk, rarely covered. Near the Ducal -Palace we saw the public armory, which was almost all new, most neatly -kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were showed many rare -inventions and engines of war peculiar to that armory, as in the state -when guns were first put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly -consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly -of polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and for stateliness of the -buildings, paving, and evenness of the street, is far superior to any in -Europe, for the number of houses; that of Don Carlo Doria is a most -magnificent structure. In the gardens of the old Marquis Spinola, I saw -huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our apricots to the -walls. The churches are no less splendid than the palaces; that of St. -Francis is wholly built of Parian marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of -the city, of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly incrusted -with marble and other precious materials; on the altar of St. John stand -four sumptuous columns of porphyry; and here we were showed an emerald, -supposed to be one of the largest in the world. The church of St. -Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, exceed all the -rest; and that of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family, -in the present and future design can never be outdone for cost and art. -From the churches we walked to the Mole, a work of solid huge stone, -stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea, and secures the -harbor, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art -and nature of the design, nothing parallels this. We passed over to the -Pharos, or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took horses, -and made the circuit of the city as far as the new walls, built of a -prodigious height, and with Herculean industry; witness those vast pieces -of whole mountains which they have hewn away, and blown up with -gunpowder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are not much less -than twenty English miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings -of the city. From one of these promontories we could easily discern the -island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw a vale having a -great torrent running through a most desolate barren country; and then -turning our eyes more northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro -d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retirements of -the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain, we descended toward the -Arsenal, where the galleys lie in excellent order. - -The inhabitants of the city are much affected to the Spanish mode and -stately garb. From the narrowness of the streets, they use sedans and -litters, and not coaches. - -19th October, 1644. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or Leghorn; but -the sea running very high, we put in at Porto Venere, which we made with -peril, between two narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with -great velocity; but we were soon delivered into as great a calm and a -most ample harbor, being in the Golfo di Spetia. From hence, we could see -Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that -famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, being about two -leagues over, more resembling a lake than a haven, but defended by -castles and excessive high mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being -Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streets -in solemn devotion. After dinner we took post-horses, passing through -whole groves of olive trees, the way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, -but afterward pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana and -Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure -inn, at a place called Viregio. The next morning we arrived at Pisa, -where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come -out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till more than a year -after. - -The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy; it has -contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The -palace and church of St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by -that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof -being altogether of polished marble; within, it is full of tables -relating to this Order; over which hang divers banners and pendants, with -other trophies taken by them from the Turks, against whom they are -particularly obliged to fight; though a religious order, they are -permitted to marry. At the front of the palace stands a fountain, and the -statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by -John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in -a row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of -the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would -expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare address -of the architect; and how it is supported from falling I think would -puzzle a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing near it, is -a superb structure, beautified with six columns of great antiquity; the -gates are of brass, of admirable workmanship. The cemetery called Campo -Santo is made of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from -Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in -forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies buried the -learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this -church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore -contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cæsar. It is placed, as -I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns. -Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, -built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a cupola, -that the voice uttered under it seems to break out of a cloud. The font -and pulpit, supported by four lions, is of inestimable value for the -preciousness of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they -call the AREA. Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so -furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dried animals, -skeletons, etc., as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physic -Garden lies, where is a noble palm tree, and very fine waterworks. The -river Arno runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the main -street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that the Duke's galleys, built -in the arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river is an -arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is -nowhere in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is placed -the statue of Ferdinand the Third; over against it is the Exchange, built -of marble. Since this city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has -been much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any which exceeds -it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and flat; but the -inhabitants have spacious gardens, and even fields within the walls. - -[Sidenote: LIVORNO] - -21st October, 1644. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great Duke's -new park full of huge cork trees, the underwood all myrtles, among which -were many buffaloes feeding, a kind of wild ox, short nose with horns -reversed; those who work with them command them, as our bearwards do the -bears, with a ring through the nose, and a cord. Much of this park, as -well as a great part of the country about it, is very fenny, and the air -very bad. - -Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke's territories; -heretofore a very obscure town, but since Duke Ferdinand has strongly -fortified it (after the modern way), drained the marshes by cutting a -channel thence to Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole, -emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place of -great receipt; it has also a place for the galleys, where they lie safe. -Before the sea is an ample piazza for the market, where are the statues -in copper of the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion, -and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern -work. Here, especially in this piazza, is such a concourse of slaves, -Turks, Moors, and other nations, that the number and confusion is -prodigious; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others playing, -some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly -naked, and miserably chained. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow -might stake his liberty against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard; -and, if he lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the galleys, -where he was to serve a term of years, but from whence they seldom -returned; many sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their -fortune in this way. - -The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _á -fresco_ on the outer walls, with representations of many of their -victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the -earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in -Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very fair and commodious, and, -with the church, whose four columns at the portico are of black marble -polished, gave the first hint to the building both of the church and -piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued. - -[Sidenote: FLORENCE] - -22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, -and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of -Signor Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were -exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the -west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with -more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to -gentlemen of the town. The river Arno runs through the city, in a broad, -but very shallow channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and -over it are four most sumptuous bridges of stone. On that nearest to our -quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble; on another are the -goldsmiths' shops; at the head of the former stands a column of ophite, -upon which a statue of Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of -porphyry, and the more remarkable for being the first which had been -carved out of that hard material, and brought to perfection, after the -art had been utterly lost; they say this was done by hardening the tools -in the juice of certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner, -because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of Sienna being -taken. - -Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of -architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that -family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones -of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each -side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a -cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens. -Nothing is more admirable than the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, -urns, pictures, court, grotto, and waterworks. In the quadrangle is a -huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble statues at each -square, especially the Diana of porphyry above the grotto. We were here -shown a prodigious great loadstone. - -The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, -vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos, the middle basin -being one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is everything to make -such a Paradise delightful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an -orange tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns in architecture -about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratory, over against -which stands a fort on a hill, where they told us his treasure is kept. -In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss guards, -after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his -wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker bottles dangling over -even the chief entrance into the palace, serving for a vintner's bush. - -In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, and -full of precious stones; there are four pillars of a kind of serpentine, -and some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called -Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael Angelo, -and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. The -quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall are -many rare marbles, as those of Leo X. and Clement VII., both Popes of the -Medicean family; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare painting. In the chapel -is kept (as they would make one believe) the original Gospel of St. John, -written with his own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and -divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower like that of -Pisa, always threatening ruin. - -Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men to walk in, and -over that, the shops of divers rare artists who continually work for the -great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or repository, -wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and -metal, vases of porphyry, etc.; but among the statues none so famous as -the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of Apollo, brought from the Delphic -Temple, and two triumphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the -most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, to the number of -300, taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. They then led us into a -large square room, in the middle of which stood a cabinet of an -octangular form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and -sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is called the -_Tribuna_ and in it is a pearl as big as an hazelnut. The cabinet is of -ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over the door is a round of M. Angelo; on the -cabinet, Leo X. with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and -Correggio, viz, a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads of -Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently -carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable -pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental -columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cæsar, -covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they -resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and -the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred -thousand crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars, was a series of -golden medals. Here is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a -tortoise shell, and containing a collection of gold medals esteemed worth -50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of Oriental alabaster, divers paintings -of Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an _Ecce Homo_ of Titian, a Boy of -Bronzini, etc. They showed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which -they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept the Tabernacle -appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, about which are placed small -statues of Saints, of precious material; a piece of such art and cost, -that having been these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most -curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Commesso, -which is a marble ground inlaid with several sorts of marbles and stones -of various colors representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and -landscapes. In one is represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand -who inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I -purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a cabinet. In a press near -this they showed an iron nail, one half whereof being converted into gold -by one Thurnheuser, a German chemist, is looked on as a great rarity; but -it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. There is a curious -watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an -emperor's head. - -In the armory are kept many antique habits, as those of Chinese kings; -the sword of Charlemagne; Hannibal's headpiece; a loadstone of a yard -long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such -as the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare turneries in -ivory, as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a fair -pillar of oriental alabaster; twelve vast and complete services of silver -plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered -saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and here is that -embroidered chair set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on St. -John's day, he receives the tribute of the cities. - -25th October, 1644. We went to the Portico where the famous statue of -Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, all of copper; but what is -most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine, with another man under foot, the -confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one -entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most stupendous; this -stands directly against the great piazza, where, to adorn one fountain, -are erected four marble statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune -and his family of sea gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four sea -horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst of a very great -basin: a work, I think, hardly to be paralleled. Here is also the famous -statue of David, by M. Angelo; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli; -the Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Donatelli, which -stand publicly before the old Palace with the Centaur of Bologna, huge -Colossean figures. Near this stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in -brass on a pedestal of marble, and four copper bassorelievos by John di -Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the First, on horseback, -is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen boar, which serves for another public -fountain, is admirable. - -After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annunciata, where the Duke and -his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute -for sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles, [proved] by -innumerable votive tablets, etc., covering almost the walls of the whole -church. This is the image of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and -which the artist finished so well, that he was in despair of performing -the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was miraculously done for him -while he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke himself. -Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar -is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by thirty -great silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters. -Our Savior's Passion in brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of -John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. - -To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted in _fresco_ -very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for 1,000 persons, with -nurse-children, and several other charitable accommodations. - -At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses -of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are -continually exercised in the _manège_. - -Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, -bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in a deep walled court, and -therefore to be seen with more pleasure than those at the Tower of -London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, -to catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down. - -[Sidenote: SIENNA] - -[20]There are many plain brick towers erected for defense, when this was -a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing at the foot of -the piazza which we went first to see after our arrival. At the entrance -of this tower is a chapel open toward the piazza, of marble well adorned -with sculpture. - - [Footnote 20: There seems to be here an omission in the MS. between - their leaving Florence and going to Sienna.] - -On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built _a la -moderna_, of brick; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made, that -they look almost as well as porphyry itself, having a kind of natural -polish. - -In the Senate-house is a very fair Hall where they sometimes entertain -the people with public shows and operas, as they call them. Toward the -left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of brass, -placed on a column of ophite stone, which they report was brought from -the renowned Ephesian Temple. These ensigns being the arms of the town, -are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far -without the city. - -The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and chapel, and, being -made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop -shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks -above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved, render it -very clean. About this market place (for so it is) are many fair palaces, -though not built with excess of elegance. There stands an arch, the work -of Baltazzar di Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not -easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some imperceptible -contiguations, which do not betray themselves easily to the eye. On the -edge of the piazza is a goodly fountain beautified with statues, the -water issuing out of the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo -Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in the -city, of good design. - -After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the University, or rather -College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when -they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has -produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, -Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas Sylvius; and both -were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini. - -The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius II. has built a -most stately palace of square stone, with an incomparable portico -joining near to it. The town is commanded by a castle which hath four -bastions and a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in, -much frequented by the gallants in summer. - -Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, where in -the chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they show her head, the rest of her -body being translated to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both without and -within, is of large square stones of black and white marble polished, of -inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorned with sculpture and rare -statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry -streaked colored marble. About the body of the church, on a cornice -within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is beautified -with marble figures, a piece of exquisite work; but what exceeds all -description is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and other -figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the history of the Bible, -so artificially expressed in the natural colors of the marbles, that few -pictures exceed it. Here stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on -the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. -The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the -altar is the library, where are painted the acts of Æneas Sylvius, and -others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist, -wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by -the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription -testifies. They have also St. Peter's sword, with which he smote off the -ear of Malchus. - -Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital, where they -entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrims as go -to Rome. In the chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius, -their founder, as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years. -They show one of the nails which pierced our Savior, and Saint -Chrysostom's "Comment on the Gospel," written by his own hand. Below the -hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure -more than food. - -St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near which, yet a little without -the city, grows a tree which they report in their legend grew from the -Saint's staff, which, on going to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at -his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of -it in decoction cures sundry diseases. - -[Sidenote: TORRINIERI] - -2d November, 1644. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the -cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.,[21] who had not yet made the -grand procession to St. John di Laterano. We set out by Porto Romano, the -country all about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild boar and -venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the towns about it. -We passed near Monte Oliveto, where the monastery of that Order is -pleasantly situated, and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which, by -the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, we went -through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of the Emperor, Henry VII., -who was here poisoned with the Holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to -Torrinieri, where we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of -Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello.[22] After three miles more, -we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private osteria near it, where, after -we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, -now come from Rome; he was so civil as to entertain us with great -respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he had been once -in our country. Among other discourse, he related how a dove had been -seen to sit on the chair in the Conclave at the election of Pope -Innocent, which he magnified as a great good omen, with other particulars -which we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came in great -state with his own bedstead and all the furniture, yet would by no means -suffer us to resign the room we had taken up in the lodging before his -arrival. Next morning, we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, -Monte Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping -above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at -Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for the necessary -refreshment of travelers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we -entered a very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like rocks -at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going up; they were dry -misty vapors, hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, and obscuring -both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in -the clouds, till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene -heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the mountain -appearing more like a great island than joined to any other hills; for we -could perceive nothing but a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet -like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top of some other -mountain to peep through, which we could discover many miles off: and -between some breaches of the clouds we could see landscapes and villages -of the subjacent country. This was one of the most pleasant, new, and -altogether surprising objects that I had ever beheld. - - [Footnote 21: John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, - died in 1655.] - - [Footnote 22: The wine so called.] - -On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong -fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a small town; the provisions -are drawn up with ropes and engines, the precipice being otherwise -inaccessible. At one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely -broken off from the ragged mountain, as would affright one with their -horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the inn gushed out a -plentiful and most useful fountain which falls into a great trough of -stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my -black lead pen took the prospect. It is one of the utmost confines of the -Etrurian State toward St. Peter's Patrimony, since the gift of Matilda to -Gregory VII., as is pretended. - -Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory XIV., and thence -immediately to Acquapendente, a town situated on a very ragged rock, down -which precipitates an entire river (which gives it the denomination), -with a most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is -this inscription: - - "_L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta, - In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta - Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta._" - -Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans, -famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other great scholars, especially -the renowned physician and anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was -bred and born there. - -4th November, 1644. After a little riding, we descended toward the Lake -of Bolsena, which being above twenty miles in circuit, yields from hence -a most incomparable prospect. Near the middle of it are two small -islands, in one of which is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where -those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it _Tarquiniensis -Lacus_, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they did not -appear to us. The lake is environed with mountains, at one of whose sides -we passed toward the town Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those -times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. -Christiana's church, the urn, altar, and jasper columns. - -After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood heretofore sacred to -Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head of the Falisci, a famous people -in old time, and heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, -as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St. -Flavian's church with this epitaph: - - "_Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est._" - -Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and inquire where the -best wine was, and there write _Est_, the man found some so good that he -wrote _Est, Est_, upon the vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of -it, died. - -[Sidenote: VITERBO] - -From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant champaign to Viterbo, -which presents itself with much state afar off, in regard of her many -lofty pinnacles and towers; neither does it deceive our expectation; for -it is exceedingly beautified with public fountains, especially that at -the entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare figures, -and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing -waters. There are many Popes buried in this city, and in the palace is -this odd inscription: - - "_Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc - antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi - Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriæ - monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V._" - -Under it: - - "_Sum Osiris Rex Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe._" - - "_Sum Osiris Rex qui ab Itala in Gigantes exercitus veni, vidi, et - vici._" - - "_Sum Osiris Rex qui terrarum pacata Italiam decem a'nos quorum - inventor fui._" - -Near the town is a sulphurous fountain, which continually boils. After -dinner we took horse by the new way of Capranica, and so passing near -Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at -which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon allayed by so -violent a shower, which fell just as we were contemplating that proud -Mistress of the world, and descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we -entered), that before we got into the city I was wet to the skin. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -I came to Rome on the 4th of November, 1644, about five at night; and -being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on -horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a -Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having -bargained with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good fire to -be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet. The next -morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted -with several persons who had long lived at Rome. I was especially -recommended to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his Order -for the English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, -religion, and humanity; also to Mr. Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to -our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young priest, who afterward came over -to our church; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs, physicians who had dependence on -Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet; Father Courtney, the -chief of the Jesuits in the English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother -to the Marquis of Worcester; and some others, from whom I received -instructions how to behave in town, with directions to masters and books -to take in search of the antiquities, churches, collections, etc. -Accordingly, the next day, November 6th, I began to be very -pragmatical.[23] - - [Footnote 23: The sense in which Evelyn uses this word is that of - its old signification, as being very active and full of business, - setting to work systematically with what he came upon, namely, to - view the antiquities and beauties of Rome.] - -In the first place, our sights-man (for so they name certain persons here -who get their living by leading strangers about to see the city) went to -the Palace Farnese, a magnificent square structure, built by Michael -Angelo, of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner, and when -architecture was but newly recovered from the Gothic barbarity. The court -is square and terraced, having two pairs of stairs which lead to the -upper rooms, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine -Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and -well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment -than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed. -Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing the -fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a -pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent -of ground backward. The great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, -furnished with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a -Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration. -Here we were shown the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos, replete with -innumerable collections; but the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at -this time see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with -astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues of Hercules and -Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and indeed by all antiquity, as two -of the most rare pieces in the world; there likewise stands a modern -statue of Hercules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second -court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and -never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of Amphion and Dirce, represented -in five figures, exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white -marble, the contending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and -Taurisco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and -remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world -for its antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and -busts. At the entrance of this stately palace stand two rare and vast -fountains of garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus's -Baths. Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the FRESCO in their -coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we visited the palace -of Signor Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especially -the Adonis of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have -purchased, if a great price would have been taken for it. - -We went into the CAMPO VACCINO, by the ruins of the Temple of Peace, -built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought to be the largest as well as the -most richly furnished of all the Roman dedicated places: it is now a heap -rather than a temple, yet the roof and _volto_ continue firm, showing it -to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. This goodly structure -was, none knows how, consumed by fire the very night, by all computation, -that our blessed Savior was born. - -From hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated himself -for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake, or vorago. -Near this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed -to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus; the work -of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave is excellent, full of -sacrificing utensils. There are three other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite -to these are the oratories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, -heretofore the Temples of Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a tribunal, -or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before it are brass, -and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie -the bodies of those two martyrs; and in a chapel on the right hand is a -rare painting of Cavaliere Baglioni. - -We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a -range of most stately columns; the inscription cut in the architrave -shows it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair -church, and has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St. -Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was once placed a -military column, supposed to be set in the center of the city, from -whence they used to compute the distance of all the cities and places of -note under the dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are -likewise brazen gates and a noble front; just opposite we saw the heaps -and ruins of Cicero's palace. Hence we went toward Mons Capitolinus, at -the foot of which stands the arch of Septimus Severus, full and entire, -save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up with -ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched with sculpture and -trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial and naval battles -here graven, is seen the Roman Aries (the battering-ram); and this was -the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we climbed -by very broad steps, is built about a square court, at the right hand of -which, going up from Campo Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the -statue of Tiber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing -Rome; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius, casting water -into a most ample concha. The front of this court is crowned with an -excellent fabric containing the Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal -Notary sits, and others. In one of the halls they show the statues of -Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To this joins a -handsome tower, the whole faciata adorned with noble statues, both on the -outside and on the battlements, ascended by a double pair of stairs, and -a stately Posario. - -In the center of the court stands that incomparable horse bearing the -Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian metal, placed -on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now -extant, antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a colossean -magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending stairs -are set two horses of white marble governed by two naked slaves, taken to -be Castor and Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade, -the trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and -instructive. At the foot of the steps toward the left hand is that -Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, mentioned to have been -formerly set in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand, is the palace of the -Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the -city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them), -of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico -within, are the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned -Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a -smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head -of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand, the thumb -whereof is at least an ell long, and yet proportionable; but the rest of -the _colosse_ is lost. In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion -fighting, as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued; likewise -the Rape of the Sabines; two cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea; two -monstrous feet of a _colosse_ of Apollo; the Sepulchre of Agrippina; and -the standard, or antique measure of the Roman foot. Ascending by the -steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz, the -triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity -and rareness of the work, I caused my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, to -copy. There are also two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the -Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas bound -to a tree; all of them excellent and antique. Above in the lobby are -inserted into the walls those ancient laws, on brass, called the Twelve -Tables; a fair Madonna of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall; near -which are the archives, full of ancient records. - -In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe -d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In -another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, -set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent -masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, Horatius Cocles, etc. -The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried -with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or -_balduquino_ of crimson velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely -painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of brass, -with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn -out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also -holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the -names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by -the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing -Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished with -velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In -the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, a -Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incomparable work, six other -statues; and, over the chimney, a very rare basso-relievo, and other -figures. In a little lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, -a Bacchus very antique, _bustoes_ of Pan and Mercury, with other old -heads. All these noble statues, etc., belong to the city, and cannot be -disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but are preserved -for the honor of the place, though great sums have been offered for them -by divers Princes, lovers of art, and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, -certainly one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now built -by the design of the famous M. Angelo. - -Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than 100 marble -steps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare knees, but -to see those two famous statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed -there out of his baths. In this church is a Madonna, reported to be -painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the print of a foot, -which they affirm to have been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of -St. Angelo. Here the feast of our Blessed Savior's nativity being yearly -celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation. -Having viewed the Palace and fountain, at the other side of the stairs, -we returned weary to our lodgings. - -On the 7th of November, we went again near the Capitol, toward the -Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the Tiber. Thence, -descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, -they showed us a chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of -it bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the church gushes a -fountain, which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having -converted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to make them -Christians. The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We then walked -about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the Circus Maximus, -capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into -gardens. Then by the _Forum Boarium_, where they have a tradition that -Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his temple remaining. The Temple of -Janus Quadrifrons, having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on -each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and pretty entire -antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now toward -the Tiber, we went into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 -persons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew; the -architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to none. It is -now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman -families. The people were now generally busy in erecting temporary -triumphs and arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his -Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani, among which the Jews -also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the -Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's -architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an -object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the -end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and -void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the _volto_ -whereof was newly painted _á fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro -Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished -with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of -worthy collections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts; but, above all, an -Egyptian Osiris, remarkable for its unknown material and antiquity. In -one of the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the -original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy, little inferior -to the prototype; a table, in my judgment, superior to anything I had -seen in Rome. In the court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having -divers hieroglyphics cut on it. - -8th November, 1644. We visited the Jesuits' Church, the front whereof is -esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design of Jacomo della Porta -and the famous Vignola. In this church lies the body of their renowned -Ignatius Loyola, an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the -right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal Bellarmine. Here -Father Kircher (professor of Mathematics and the oriental tongues) showed -us many singular courtesies, leading us into their refectory, -dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round -with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their -pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch -patience, he showed us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical -experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of -them since published by himself, or his industrious scholar, Schotti. - -Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de Medicis, which was an -house of the Duke of Florence near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons -Pincius, having a fine prospect toward the Campo Marzo. It is a -magnificent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and a -portico supported with columns toward the gardens, with two huge lions, -of marble, at the end of the balustrade. The whole outside of the -_facciata_ is incrusted with antique and rare basso-relievos and statues. -Descending into the garden is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of -brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of fine -statues, among which the Sabines, antique and singularly rare. In the -arcade near this stand twenty-four statues of great price, and hard by is -a mount planted with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly -fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white marble, -covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, and other perennial greens, -divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. At a little distance -are those famed statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large -as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed among the -best pieces of work in the world for the passions they express, and all -other perfections of that stupendous art. There is likewise in this -garden a fair obelisk, full of hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain -before the front casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is -received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the great -horse every morning; which gave me much diversion from the terrace of my -own chamber, where I could see all their motions. This evening, I was -invited to hear rare music at the Chiesa Nova; the black marble pillars -within led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, their -founder; they being of the oratory of secular priests, under no vow. -There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo -Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of -the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, -and others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many -chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cæsar Baronius, the great -annalist. Through this, we went into the _sacristia_, where, the tapers -being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of -eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace, -that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian so well and so -intelligently spoken. This course it seems they frequently use, to bring -their scholars to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their -action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England. This -being finished, began their _motettos_, which in a lofty cupola richly -painted, were sung by eunuchs, and other rare voices, accompanied by -theorbos, harpsichords, and viols, so that we were even ravished with the -entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by Cortona, and has in -it two figures in the niches, and the church stands in one of the most -stately streets of Rome. - -10th November, 1644. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where was -formerly the _Viridarium_ of the poet, Sallust. The house is very -magnificent, and the extent of the ground exceedingly large, considering -that it is in a city; in every quarter of the garden are antique statues, -and walks planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house of -retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a particular -ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness and smoothness of the -excellent pargeting was a thing I much observed, being almost as even and -polished, as if it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the -city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a -Vulcan, the other a Nativity; there is a German clock full of rare and -extraordinary motions; and, in a little room below are many precious -marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental -alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area, -environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to -preserve their oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are -properly called _testæ_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous -statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the -rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed through almost all -Europe, both in stone and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of -porphyry, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's body -flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble, as it was found -in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes; it lay in a -chest, or coffin, lined with black velvet, and one of the arms being -broken, you may see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire. -The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white, the work of -Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innumerable small brass figures, and -other curiosities. But what some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is -a very rich bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much -glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid -wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and antique heads, -onyxes, agates, and cornelians, esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. -Here are also divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides -pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo--a conceited chair to -sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, and pieces of wood to -draw out longer or shorter. - -From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study, who very -courteously showed us such a collection of rare medals as is hardly to be -paralleled; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian -curiosities, and things of nature. - -From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore called Mons Quirinalis, -where we saw those two rare horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and -Praxiteles, as they were sent to Nero (by Tiridates King) out of Armenia. -They were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sextus V., by whom I -suppose their injuries were repaired, and are governed by four naked -slaves, like those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble -fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for building and -beauty to be seen in any city of Europe. Opposite to these statues is the -Pope's summer palace, built by Gregory XIII.; and, in my opinion, it is, -for largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous in Rome, -having a stately portico which leads round the court under columns, in -the centre of which there runs a beautiful fountain. The chapel is -incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can be more rich, -or glorious, nor are the other ornaments and movables about it at all -inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and others. The garden, which -is called the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation of that of the -Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its exquisite fountains, -close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted about with -venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water-music, aviaries, and other -rarities. - -12th November, 1644. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whose ruins testify the -vastness of the original foundation and magnificence; by what M. Angelo -took from the ornaments about it, 'tis said he restored the then almost -lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labor of -the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great persecutions. -The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of these ruinous -cupolas, and is in the form of an urn with a cover. - -Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise called _Fons -Felix_; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses -striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children -drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly -magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an -aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Præneste, as the -inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about -with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, -very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's -corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were the -gardens of Sallust. The faciàta of this church is noble, the _soffito_ -within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, -by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite -work, from whose marble steps you descend under ground to the repository -of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is the work of Jacomo -Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine Nuns. - -Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. In -this church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory XV., after the signal victory -of the Emperor at Prague; the standards then taken still hang up, and the -impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms, _Extirpentur_. I -observed that the high altar was much frequented for an image of the -Virgin. It has some rare statues, as Paul ravished into the third heaven, -by Fiamingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent toward -Dioclesian's Baths, never satisfied with contemplating that immense pile, -in building which 150,000 Christians were destined to labor fourteen -years, and were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthusians, -called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of M. Angelo, and the -cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. - -Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone built on the -Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park full of fountains, -especially that which salutes us at the front; stews for fish; the -cypress walks are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and -other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The -citron trees are uncommonly large. In the palace joining to it are -innumerable collections of value. Returning, we stepped into St. Agnes -church, where there is a tribunal of antique mosaic, and on the altar a -most rich ciborio of brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental -alabaster. The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they -showed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as -the relievo intimates by the drunken emblems and instruments wrought upon -it. The altar is of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had -the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses before the Monte -Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the most glorious sights for state and -magnificence that any city can show a traveler. We returned by Porta Pia, -and the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the -wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive. - -Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street but very precipitous, -till we came to the four fountains of Lepidus, built at the abutments of -four stately ways, making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the -fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under very large niches -of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The church of St. Carlo is -a singular fabric for neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white -stone; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church of a -structure nothing less admirable. - -Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the Esqueline Mountain, -which gives it a most conspicuous face to the street at a great distance. -The design is mixed partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that -the Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built 300 years -since. The first pavement is rare and antique; so is the portico built by -P. P. Eugenius II. The _ciborio_ is the work of Paris Romano, and the -tribunal of Mosaic. - -We were showed in the church a _concha_ of porphyry, wherein they say -Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one of the most famous of the seven -Roman Churches, and is, in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the -most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, are -the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of Sextus was designed by -Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare great statues, and some good pieces -of painting; and here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents' -bodies slain by Herod: as also that renowned tabernacle of metal, gilt, -sustained by four angels, holding as many tapers, placed on the altar. In -this chapel is the statue of Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of -most of his famous acts, in Parian marble; but that of P. Paulus, which -we next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination glorious, -and above description. It is so encircled with agates, and other most -precious materials, as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The -basso-relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed -with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on _lapis lazuli_. The altar -is a most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the cupola painted -by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite -sculptures. There is a most sumptuous _sacristia_; and the piece over the -altar was by the hand of St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath -here likewise built two other altars; under the one lie the bones of the -Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the statue of this Pope, -and the head of the Congo Ambassador, who was converted at Rome, and died -here. In a third chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of -Platina, and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., the -ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V., before -mentioned, was showed us part of the crib in which Christ was swaddled -at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of Pius V.; and going out at the -further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the -portico, is this late inscription: "_Cardinal Antonio Barberino -Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, -laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, -Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis ædibus huc transtulit et -ornavit, 1632_." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and -stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an -ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the -plinth of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal; at the -pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the obelisk taken -from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico -Fontana, with this epigraph: "_Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto -advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures -confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem -restitutum Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, -Pont. III_"; and so we came weary to our lodgings. - -At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, in which is a -well, filled with the blood and bones of several martyrs, but grated over -with iron, and visited by many devotees. Near this stands the church of -her sister, S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a -little obscure place, canceled in with iron work, is the pillar, or -stump, at which they relate our Blessed Savior was scourged, being full -of bloody spots, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their -chaplets, and convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, -besides a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous Cardinal -Cajetan, an excellent piece; and here they hold that St. Peter said his -first mass at Rome, with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he -having been first lodged in this house, as they compute about the -forty-fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many relics, or -rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna did next invite -us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet -remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. -In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _á -fresco_ on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the -Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. - -14th November, 1644. We passed again through the stately Capitol and -Campo Vaccino toward the Amphitheater of Vespasian, but first stayed to -look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in honor -of his victory at Jerusalem; on the left hand whereof he is represented -drawn in a chariot with four horses abreast; on the right hand, or side -of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso-relievo as big as -the life (and in one entire marble) the Ark of the Covenant, on which -stands the seven-branched candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the -two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as they -are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles; before this, go many -crowned and laureated figures, and twelve Roman _fasces_ with other -sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before had; and therefore, -for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter, Carlo, to -copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the noblest, best -understood _composita_; and the inscription is this, in capital letters: - - S. P. Q. R. - D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO. - -Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus fell out -of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himself to pieces on a flint. -Near this is a marble monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory -of the Pope's return from Avignon. Being now passed the ruins of -Meta-Sudante (which stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there -once stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh the -gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, -begun by Vespasian, and finished by that excellent prince, Titus. It is -830 Roman palms in length (_i.e._ 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, -with caves for the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of -dogs; the whole oval periphery 2888-4/7 palms, and capable of containing -87,000 spectators with ease and all accommodation: the three rows of -circles are yet entire; the first was for the senators, the middle for -the nobility, the third for the people. At the dedication of this place -were 5,000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the feast -lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It was built of Tiburtine -stone, a vast height, with the five orders of architecture, by 30,000 -captive Jews. It is without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned -thick with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of the -stones were carried away to repair the city walls and build the Farnesian -palace. That which still appears most admirable is, the contrivance of -the porticos, vaults, and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well -deserves this distich of the poet: - - "_Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro; - Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus._" - -Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, -which is erected on the steps, or stages, very lofty at one of its sides, -or ranges, within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermit. I -ascended to the very top of it with wonderful admiration. - -The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-Sudante, before -mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia, on one side Monte Celio, -and is perfectly entire, erected by the people in memory of his victory -over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front is this -inscription: - - IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO - P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. - QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS - MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO - TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS - FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS - REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS - ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. - -Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where are many privileged -altars, and there they showed us an arm of that saint, and other relics. -Before this church stands a very noble portico. - -15th November, 1644. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th I -went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines. - -17th November, 1644. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample garden -on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city walls, circumscribed by -another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses; which makes it -appear at a distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of -delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace; but the entrance of -the garden presents us with a very glorious fabric, or rather door-case, -adorned with divers excellent marble statues. This garden abounded with -all sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry -inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it a -vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, etc., and divers strange -beasts, deer, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and represents, among -other devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers, -etc.; which is effected by changing the heads of the fountains. The -groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. The four sphinxes -are very antique, and worthy observation. To this is a volary, full of -curious birds. The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect -is excellent toward Rome, and the environing hills, covered as they now -are with snow, which indeed commonly continues even a great part of the -summer, affording sweet refreshment. Round the house is a baluster of -white marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with a multitude -of statues. The walls of the house are covered with antique incrustations -of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, etc. The -cornices above consist of fruitages and festoons, between which are -niches furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very roof. -In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues of Consuls, etc., -with two pieces of field artillery upon carriages, (a mode much practiced -in Italy before the great men's houses) which they look on as a piece of -state more than defense. In the first hall within, are the twelve Roman -Emperors, of excellent marble; between them stand porphyry columns, and -other precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urns of oriental -alabaster. Tables of pietra-commessa: and here is that renowned Diana -which Pompey worshiped, of eastern marble: the most incomparable Seneca -of touch, bleeding in an huge vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of -his blood; the so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of -stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is -observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the -statuary plainly stupendous. There is a multitude of rare pictures of -infinite value, by the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two -exquisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber, are divers -sorts of instruments of music: among other toys that of a satyr, which so -artificially expressed a human voice, with the motion of eyes and head, -that it might easily afright one who was not prepared for that most -extravagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches fast any one -who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir out, by certain springs -concealed in the arms and back thereof, which at sitting down surprises a -man on the sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a true -treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also considerable, composed -by the position of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication -of things resembling divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a -rare clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is -to be seen in this Paradise. - -The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the morning, I saw the -ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat; this -was the first time I had seen his Holiness _in pontificalibus_. After the -Cardinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony was in the -Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested with most pompous -rites. - -19th November, 1644. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and -incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and -perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The -largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it -affords a noble prospect of the church, not crowded up, as for the most -part is the case in other places where great churches are erected. In -this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river rather than a stream -which, ascending a good height, breaks upon a round emboss of marble into -millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise; -I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw. - -Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius -Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; -but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast -cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, architect to -Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire square stone without -hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two feet, but comprehending the base and -all it is 108 feet high, and rests on four lions of gilded copper, so as -you may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the pedestal. - -Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven - - DIVO CAES. DIVI - IVLII F. AVGVSTO - TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. - F. AVGVS. SACRVM. - -It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that Sextus V. -inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is to be read by good eyes: - - SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI - SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - CONSECRAVIT. - E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM - ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. - I. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI. - -On the four faces of the base below: - - 1. CHRISTVS VINCIT. - CHRISTVS REGNAT. - CHRISTVS IMPERAT. - CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO - PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. - - 2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM - IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM - AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA - OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT - AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II. - - 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI - FVGITE PARTES - ADVERSAE - VINCIT LEO - DE TRIBV IVDA. - - 4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. - CRVCI INVICTAE - OBELISCVM VATICANVM - AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE - EXPIATVM IVSTIVS - ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT - AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. - -A little lower: - - DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS - TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. - -It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975 -crowns, the labor of 907 men, and 75 horses: this being the first of the -four Egyptian obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the forty-two brought -to the city out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by -the Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes. Some coaches stood before the -steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to Cardinal Medici, had all -the metal work of massy silver, viz, the bow behind and other places. The -coaches at Rome, as well as covered wagons also much in use, are -generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the _facciata_ of -the church is an ample pavement. The church was first begun by St. -Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on a foundation, as they give out, of -Constantine the Great, who, in honor of the Apostles, carried twelve -baskets full of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in hand, -to which all his successors have contributed more or less. - -The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied piece of -architecture in the world; to this we went up by four steps of marble. -The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters; the _volto_ within is -the richest possible, and overlaid with gold. Between the five large -anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many gates -of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the Florentine, full of -cast figures and histories in a deep relievo. Over this runs a terrace of -like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his -Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico are two -_campaniles_, or towers, whereof there was but one perfected, of -admirable art. On the top of all, runs a balustrade which edges it quite -round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the twelve -Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than -the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the _volto_, -or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses overlaid with gold in -nature of a deep basso-relievo, _à l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in -form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the -_internodium_ of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone -and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of the Pantheon -(which was the largest among the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any -other known. The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite -Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full -of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, exposed to the air, is covered -with lead, with great ribs of metal double gilt (as are also the ten -other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which -gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of the city. On the -summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving -thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name among other -travelers. Lastly, is the Cross, the access to which is between the -leaden covering and the stone convex, or arch-work; a most truly -astonishing piece of art! On the battlements of the church, also all -overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so -many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses -inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the -vast reparations which continually employ them. - -Having seen this, we descended into the body of the church, full of -collateral chapels and large oratories, most of them exceeding the size -of ordinary churches; but the principal are four incrusted with most -precious marbles and stones of various colors, adorned with an infinity -of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics. The -altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could not pass without -particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The chapel of Gregory -XIII., where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the -center of the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement -VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered by Pope Urban VIII.; with -that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought -from the Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly -channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little _puti_ birds -and bees (the arms of the _Barberini_), sustaining a _baldacchino_ of the -same metal. The four columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, -all over richly gilt; this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about -it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond -all that man's industry has produced of the kind; it is the work of -Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a -little before my coming to the city, gave a public opera (for so they -call shows of that kind), wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, -invented the engines, composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the -theater. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which, -with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed four exquisite -statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica, -made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the -miraculous _Sudarium_ indued with the picture of our Savior's face, with -this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ Sudario exceptam ut loci -majestas decentèr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum -et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit_." - -Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by -Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a -most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "_Longini Lanceam quam -Innocentius VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. -statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium -transtulit_." - -The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman, St. -Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great; the work of Boggi, an -excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a great piece of the pretended -wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected -miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with -this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix è Calvario in -Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam, -additis arâ et statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit_." - -The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the -statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the -other; above is preserved the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It -is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in -a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found -himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this: - - "_St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum - curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisque - statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._" - -The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also -the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and -services to be seen in the Sacristy, which they showed us. Under the high -altar is an ample grot inlaid with _pietra-commessa_, wherein half of the -bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang divers great -lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. About this and -contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, in form of a theater, of -black marble. Toward the left, as you go out of the church by the -portico, a little beneath the high altar, is an old brass statue of St. -Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub -their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a -statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place, stands a column grated -about with iron, whereon they report that our Blessed Savior was often -wont to lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary -under the cupola there are eight wreathed columns brought from the Temple -of Solomon. In another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or, -as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But among all the chapels the -one most glorious has for an altar-piece a Madonna bearing a dead Christ -on her knees, in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper -end of the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially that of -Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and in many other places in the church, are -confession seats, for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, -Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, etc., as it is -written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are still at -confessions some of all nations. Toward the lower end of the church, and -on the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roof, is the -_depositum_ and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with -basso-relievos about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are -also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., etc. Among the exquisite pieces -in this sumptuous fabric is that of the ship with St. Peter held up from -sinking by our Savior; the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous -Giotto, who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced by the -Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to be passed over -without observation, which with the rest of the body and walls of the -whole church, are all inlaid with the richest of _pietra-commessa_, in -the most splendid colors of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, -porphyry, calcedon, etc., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming out -by the portico at which we entered, we were shown the Porta Santa, never -opened but at the year of jubilee. This glorious foundation hath -belonging to it thirty canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight -clerks beneficed, with innumerable chaplains, etc., a Cardinal being -always archpriest; the present Cardinal was Francisco Barberini, who also -styled himself Protector of the English, to whom he was indeed very -courteous. - -20th November, 1644. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral of -St. John di Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. This is a church of -extraordinary devotion, though, for outward form, not comparable to St. -Peter's, being of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathedral, -the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself, being formerly part -of the Great Constantine's palace, and, as it is said, his chamber where -by St. Silvester he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape, -having before the entrance eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each of -one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders, supporting lesser -columns of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the molding -whereof is excellently wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have -been the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohibited from -entering, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his head. -Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. -Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near -it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and -tables, especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in -fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a -tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the -Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope -John IV. The portico of the church is built of materials brought from -Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem. - -The next sight which attracted our attention, was a wonderful concourse -of people at their devotions before a place called _Scala Sancta_, to -which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those large -marble stairs, twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on -the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step; on which you may -perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate, which they affirm to -have been drops of our Blessed Savior, at the time he was so barbarously -misused by Herod's soldiers; for these stairs are reported to have been -translated hither from his palace in Jerusalem. At the top of them is a -chapel, whereat they enter (but we could not be permitted) by gates of -marble, being the same our Savior passed when he went out of Herod's -house. This they name the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, and over it we read this -epigraph: - - _Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus._ - -Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ painted (as they -say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life. Descending again, we saw -before the church the obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of admiration. -It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V., -in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or pedestal; at the -foot nine and a half one way, and eight the other. This pillar was first -brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from -thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammianus -Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King of Egypt. It was -transferred to this city by Constantine the son of the Great, and is full -of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, etc., -containing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book -which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse learning of -that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that brought it to Rome so -many hundred leagues, must needs have been of wonderful bigness and -strange fabric. The stone is one and entire, and (having been thrown -down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope, -Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but -solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciátas: - - _Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum à - patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum - impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus - Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D._ - -On the second square: - - _Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor - Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum - suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc - conditam eo decoraret monumento._ - -On the third: - - _Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum - calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum, - multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, - formàq; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit anno - M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII._ - -On the fourth: - - _Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis - gloriam propagavit._ - -Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately public -fountain, with a statue of St. John in the middle of it), we visited His -Holiness's palace, being a little on the left hand, the design of -Fontana, architect to Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best -palaces in Rome; but not staying we entered the church of St. John di -Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learned -by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico: - - _Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali - Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u] - Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris - Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt; - Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto - Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._ - -It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwelling it seems -hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately -tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church -that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars -of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made like large -chests for the easier removal in times of persecution; such an altar is -still the great one here preserved, as being that on which (they hold) -St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may -now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of -precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over which it -is painted _á fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by -most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns. -The _soffito_ is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the -porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a tabernacle on it all -of precious stones, the work of Targoni; on this is a _coena_ of plate, -the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value; the tables hanging -over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are four excellent columns -transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brass, double gilt, -about twelve feet in height; the walls between them are incrusted with -marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be filled -with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, -Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of -this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those -of the great Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the -_sacristia_, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of -the church is a flat stone supported by four pillars which they affirm -to have been the exact height of our Blessed Savior, and say they never -fitted any mortal man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter; -two columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his passion; the -stone on which they threw lots for his seamless vesture; and the pillar -on which the cock crowed, after Peter's denial; and, to omit no fine -thing, the just length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her -shoemaker affirmed! Here is a sumptuous cross, beset with precious -stones, containing some of the VERY wood of the holy cross itself; with -many other things of this sort: also numerous most magnificent monuments, -especially those of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I., -of copper; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V., Laurentius Valla, -etc., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, designed by M. Angelo; and the great -crucifix of Sermoneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of -Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so has done -many years; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte. The two -famous Oecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope -Simachus, Martin I., Stephen, etc. - -Leaving this venerable church (for in truth it has a certain majesty in -it), we passed through a fair and large hospital of good architecture, -having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We -then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P., begun -by M. Angelo; a St. Andrew, and the bath of St. Cecilia. In this church -are some rare paintings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Reni. -Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great -chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the _tribuna_ are excellent. - -Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo -Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of -vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human -things does change from the most glorious and magnificent to the most -deformed and confused. We next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which -has a handsome front: then we passed by the place where Romulus and Remus -were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum, and so by the edge of the -Mons Palatinus; where we saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church -of St. Anacletus; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore capable of -containing a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, but now all one -entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden of pot herbs. -We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the -Chiesa Nova. - -21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliéro -Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a -choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of -polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique -basso-relievos about Rome, which this curious man had caused to be -designed in several folios: many fine medals; the stone which Pliny calls -Enhydros; it had plainly in it the quantity of half a spoonful of water, -of a yellow pebble color, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than -an amethyst, which yet he affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder -than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or anything at the -bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish yellow, more lustrous -than a diamond. He had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, -designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames; -also a number of choice designs and drawings. - -Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, where yet remain some -ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro _in vinculis_, one of -the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of -great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of the seven -Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar. On the wall is a St. -Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek manner: but what I chiefly regarded -was, that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with -that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in white marble, -and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa, by the same incomparable -hand. To this church belongs a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters -grow two tall and very stately palm trees. Behind these, we walked a turn -among the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange and prodigious receptacles -for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now all in heaps. - -22d November, 1644. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all the State -Ecclesiastical, viz, the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John -di Laterano, which, standing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, -I saw pass in this manner:--First went a guard of Switzers to make way, -and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying lances. Next followed -those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, two and two; then the -Cardinal's mace bearers; the caudatari, on mules; the masters of their -horse; the Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic -officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to -the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapolitan horses, -white as snow, covered to the ground with trappings richly embroidered; -which is a service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples -and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite -beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed three rich -litters with mules, the litters empty; the master of the horse alone, -with his squires; five trumpeters; the _armerieri estra muros_; the -fiscal and consistorial advocates; _capellani_, _camerieri de honore_, -_cubiculari_ and chamberlains, called _secreti_. - -Then followed four other _camerieri_ with four caps of the -dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four -trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, -very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffiéri_ and pages; the -secretaries of the _chancellaria_, _abbreviatori-accoliti_ in their long -robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _rôti_ and -master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes, -and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other -nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on -horseback; fourteen drums belonging to the Capitol; the marshals with -their staves; the two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of -crimson damask; the knight-gonfalonier and prior of the R. R., in velvet -toques; six of his Holiness's mace bearers; then the captain, or -governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer; the governor -of the city; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers, the -masters of the ceremonies; the cross bearer on horseback, with two -priests at each hand on foot; pages, footmen, and guards, in abundance. -Then came the Pope himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of -crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he -went he held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their -knees, or looking out of their windows and houses, with loud _vivas_ and -acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by -the master of his chamber, cup bearer, secretary, and physician; then -came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons, -Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct -habits, some in red, others in green flat hats with tassels, all on -gallant mules richly trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in -great state and multitudes; after them, the apostolical protonotary, -auditor, treasurer, and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear -guard, two pages of arms in helmets with feathers, and carrying lances; -two captains; the pontifical standard of the Church; the two _alfieri_, -or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armor and -carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and -people, made up the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano, I -could not see, by reason of the prodigious crowd; so I spent most of the -day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected -a few days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke of Parma, in -the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering -inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues -and abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they were but -temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, etc., painted and framed on the -sudden, but as to outward appearance, solid and very stately. The night -ended with fireworks. What I saw was that which was built before the -Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinita, and another, -before that of the French. The first appeared to be a mighty rock, -bearing the Pope's Arms, a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on -fire by one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet preserving -the figure both of the rock and statues a very long time; insomuch as it -was deemed ten thousand reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves -in order. That before the French Ambassador's Palace was a Diana drawn -in a chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other figures as large as the -life, which played with fire in the same manner. In the meantime, the -windows of the whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or -sconces, of several colored oiled paper, that the wind might not annoy -them; this rendered a most glorious show. Besides these, there were at -least twenty other fireworks of vast charge and rare art for their -invention before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals' Palaces, -especially that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of lights, -of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables which support the -standard pole. The streets were this night as light as day, full of -bonfires, cannon roaring, music playing, fountains running wine, in all -excess of joy and triumph. - -23d November, 1644. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front -whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments -being of rich marble. It has within a noble portico and court, sustained -by stately columns, as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of -which are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught as at -the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kircher upon a part of -Euclid, which he expounded. To this joins a glorious and ample church for -the students; a second is not fully finished; and there are two noble -libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and historian, Famianus -Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterward -bibliothecary of the Vatican library), who showed us one of the best -collections of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if they -were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses, -sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in -the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much -esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value. This gentleman not -long since purchased land in the kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging -the ground, to find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as to -be much more worth than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa -Nova, where was excellent music; but, before that began, the courteous -fathers led me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most -beautiful convent. - -28th November, 1644. I went to see the garden and house of the -Aldobrandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, -magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the most considerable about the -city. It has four fronts, and a noble piazza before it. Within the -courts, under arches supported by marble columns, are many excellent -statues. Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of white -marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendous art. For -paintings, our Savior's Head, by Correggio; several pieces of Raphael, -some of which are small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two -admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil; so is the Psyche and Cupid; -the head of St. John, borne by Herodias; two heads of Albert Durer, very -exquisite. We were shown here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence work -in stone. In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered with -citron trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the stone work entirely; -and, toward the street, at a back gate, the port is so handsomely clothed -with ivy as much pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique -bassi-relievi: two especially are placed on the ground, representing -armor, and other military furniture of the Romans; beside these, stand -about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and urns. Above all for -antiquity and curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now -known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting representing the -Roman _Sponsalia_, or celebration of their marriage, judged to be 1,400 -years old, yet are the colors very lively, and the design very entire, -though found deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake only, -it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, because this being on a wall -in a kind of banqueting house in the garden, could not be removed, but -passes with the inheritance. - -29th November, 1644. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being -near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections -that adorn it, especially the bassi-relievi and antique friezes inserted -about the stone work of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the -portico, is a rare piece; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the hall. We -were now led into those rooms above we could not see before, full of -incomparable statues and antiquities; above all, and haply preferable to -any in the world, are the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture -with each other's arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber is -the Gladiator, whetting a knife; but the Venus is without parallel, being -the masterpiece of one whose name you see graven under it in old Greek -characters; nothing in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To -this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe; some -relievi incrusted on the palace-walls; and an antique _vas_ of marble, -near six feet high. Among the pictures may be mentioned the Magdalen and -St. Peter, weeping. I pass over the cabinets and tables of _pietra -commessa_, being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of the -chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so many varieties, as to -turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a couch. I had another walk in -the garden, where are two huge vases, or baths of stone. - -I went further up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at Monte Cavallo, where -I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of the most -magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually -allowed 2,000 _scudi_ for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of -myrtle above a man's height; others of laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and -juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; a crypt, of which the laver, -or basin, is of one vast, entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows -a plentiful cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich -Mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish pond, and an ample bath. From -hence, we went to taste some rare Greco; and so home. - -Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the most -part, till the 6th of December; and, during this time, I entertained one -Signor Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. - -The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat, -to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but -famous only for the painting _á fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico -toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the -hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters -designing and copying after it, being esteemed one of the rarest pieces -of that art in the world; and with great reason. I must not omit that -incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in -the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it from the air, -being a most lively painting. There are likewise excellent things of -Baldassare, and others. - -Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairly built, -with a stately court and fountain. - -Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the _Taberna Meritoria_, -where the old Roman soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they -ever after wore. The high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of -porphyry: here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the -Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this church was the -first that was dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite piazza is -a very sumptuous fountain. - -12th December, 1644. I went again to St. Peter's to see the chapels, -churches, and grots under the whole church (like our St. Faith's under -Paul's), in which lie interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; -among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest -of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor, -St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St. -Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more -bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their -wives; too long to particularize. - -Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo Santo, the earth -consisting of several ship-loads of mold, transported from Jerusalem, -which consumes a carcass in twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare -hospital, where once was Nero's circus; the next to this is the -Inquisition-house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was not -curious to see. To this joins His Holiness's Horseguards. - -On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the many -extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their churches, at midnight -masses and sermons. I walked from church to church the whole night in -admiration at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the friars had -with much industry and craft set out, to catch the devout women and -superstitious sort of people, who never parted without dropping some -money into a vessel set on purpose; but especially observable was the -puppetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. I -thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare; by which time it was -morning. On Christmas-day his Holiness sang mass, the artillery of St. -Angelo went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord. - -29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner, -being their great feast of Thomas [à Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in -their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by -their alumni before the Cardinals. - -January, 1645. We saw pass the new officers of the people of Rome; -especially, for their noble habits were most conspicuous, the three -Consuls, now called Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, -having been sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We ended -the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova. - -6th January, 1645. Was the ceremony of our Savior's baptism in the Church -of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a great procession, del Bambino, -as they call it, where were all the magistrates, and a wonderful -concourse of people. - -7th January, 1645. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who -are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is with so much -malice in their countenances, spitting, humming, coughing, and motion, -that it is almost impossible they should hear a word from the preacher. A -conversion is very rare. - -14th January, 1645. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at -St. John Laterano. - -15th January, 1645. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have -portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry them, walked in -procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shown. - -I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a suburb by themselves; -being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed -by the Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being environed -with walls, they are locked up every night. In this place remains yet -part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had been a palace of -theirs for the ambassador of their nation, when their country was subject -to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a private house, I -found a world of people in a chamber: by and by came an old man, who -prepared and laid in order divers instruments brought by a little child -of about seven years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin; -the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the half. Then they -burnt some incense in a censer, which perfumed the room all the while the -ceremony was performing. In the basin was a little cap made of white -paper like a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the finger: also a paper of -a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole; a small instrument of silver, -cleft in the middle at one end, to take up the prepuce withal; a fine -linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in order, the women brought the -infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbi, -who carried and presented it before an altar, or cupboard, dressed up, on -which lay the five Books of Moses, and the Commandments, a little -unrolled. Before this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, -he waved the child to and fro awhile; then he delivered it to another -Rabbi, who sat all this time upon a table. While the ceremony was -performing, all the company fell singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous -tone, waving themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all their -devotions.--The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, live only upon brokage -and usury, very poor and despicable, beyond what they are in other -territories of Princes where they are permitted. - -18th January, 1645. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where -he for the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope -Symmachus, and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his -successors. That part of it added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This -leads us into divers terraces arched _sub dio_, painted by Raphael with -the histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists come from all parts -of Europe to make their studies from these designs. The foliage and -grotesque about some of the compartments are admirable. In another room -are represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in the world, -in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The stairs which ascend out of -St. Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contrived for ease; -these lead into the hall of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to -the roof, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colors and -works. So is also the pavement inlaid work; but what exceeds description -is, the _volta_, or roof itself, which is so exquisitely painted, that it -is almost impossible for the skillfullest eyes to discern whether it be -the work of the pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone. The -_Rota dentata_, in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one -goes out, the _Setella_, etc., are things of art incomparable. Certainly -this is one of the most superb and royal apartments in the world, much -too beautiful for a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink -and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of St. -Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior. - -Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapel, called the -Sàla del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the -Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered -by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry -IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, "_Coligni et sociorum -cædes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_." - -There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed: - - "_Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum - fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè - susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq; - Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam - pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio - restituta MCLXXVIII._"[24] - - [Footnote 24: Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and - violence of the Emperor Frederick I., took shelter at Venice, - where he was acknowledged, and most honorably received by the - Senate. The Emperor's son, Otho, being conquered and taken in - a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became a - suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus - his dignity was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the - Republic of Venice, MCLXXVIII.] - -This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. had -caused it to be blotted out during the difference between him and that -State; but it was now restored and refreshed by his successor, to the -great honor of the Venetians. The Battle of Lepanto is another fair -piece here. - -Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much celebrated for the Last -Judgment painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco, -upon a dead wall at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high -altar, of a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude -of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof also is full of rare -work. Hence, we went into the _sacristia_ where were showed all the most -precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the chapel. One priestly -cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, -and is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the Pope's -pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich jewels embroidered on -the instep, covered with crimson velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, -divers miters, crosiers, etc., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, -and pearl, to a very great value; a very large cross, carved (as they -affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous utensils of crystal, gold, -agate, amber, and other costly materials for the altar. - -We then went into those chambers painted with the Histories of the -burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix; the victory of -Constantine over Maxentius; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison; all by -Julio Romano, and are therefore called the Painters' Academy, because you -always find some young men or other designing from them: a civility which -is not refused in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best -masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many -excellent men in that profession. - -The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with an -ample landscape of Paul Bril's. - -We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides were painted with -views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in Italy, rarely -done, and upon the roof the chief Acts of the Roman Church since St. -Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magnificent -galleries in Europe.--Out of this we came into the Consistory, a noble -room, the _volta_ painted in grotesque, as I remember. At the upper end, -is an elevated throne and a baldachin, or canopy of state, for his -Holiness, over it. - -From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, than the -French Kings at the Louvre), but only of bare walls, we were brought into -the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poor people, to each of -whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a _mezzo grosse_. I -believe they were in number near 1,500 or 2,000 persons. - -This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and beautified of any in -the world; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, looking into a most -pleasant garden. The walls and roof are painted, not with antiques and -grotesques, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, diagrams, -and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and industry of -famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant. There were -likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers -of the church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the -entrance, viz, Hippolytus and Aristides. The General Councils are -painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the books, they are all -shut up in presses of wainscot, and not exposed on shelves to the open -air, nor are the most precious mixed among the more ordinary, which are -showed to the curious only; such are those two Virgils written on -parchment, of more than a thousand years old; the like, a Terence; the -"Acts of the Apostles" in golden capital letters; Petrarch's "Epigrams," -written with his own hand; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the -ancient manner, from whence they were first called "_Volumina_", with the -Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after, the book which our -Henry VIII. writ against Luther.[25] - - [Footnote 25: This very book, by one of those curious chances that - occasionally happen, found its way into England some forty years - ago, and was seen by the Editor of the early edition of this - "Diary." It may be worth remarking that wherever, in the course of - it, the title of "Defender of the Faith" was subjoined to the name - of Henry, the Pope had drawn his pen through the title. The name of - the King occurred in his own handwriting both at the beginning and - end; and on the binding were the Royal Arms. Its possessor had - purchased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old bookstall.] - -The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the gallery of printed -books; then the gallery of the Duke of Urban's library, in which are MSS. -of remarkable miniature, and divers Chinese, Mexican, Samaritan, -Abyssinian, and other oriental books. - -In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the books taken -from Heidelberg, of which the learned Gruter, and other great scholars, -had been keepers. These walls and _volte_ are painted with -representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection -of the obelisks; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre at Mecca. - -Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, the -Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election; the whole -manner whereof was described to us. - -Hence we went into the Pope's Armory, under the library. Over the door is -this inscription: - - "URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS." - -I hardly believe any prince in Europe is able to show a more completely -furnished library of Mars, for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000 -complete for horse and foot, and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again -by the long gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair of -stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descending with an -evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or coach, may with ease -be drawn up; the sides of the vacuity are set with columns: those at -Amboise, on the Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but -nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the Vatican gardens, -called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court, we were -showed those incomparable statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of -Laocoon with his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one entire -Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat bigger than the life, the -work of those three celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and -Artemidorus, Rhodians; it was found among the ruins of Titus's baths, and -placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed before all pictures -and statues in the world; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld -anything of art approach it. Here are also those two famous images of -Nilus with the children playing about him, and that of Tiber; Romulus and -Remus with the Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the Venus and Cupid, rare -pieces; the Mercury; Cybel; Hercules; Apollo; Antinous: most of which -are, for defense against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot -doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz, the -Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mausoleum; -also a peacock of copper, supposed to have been part of Scipio's -monument. - -In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit of ground) are -many stately fountains, especially two casting water into antique lavers, -brought from Titus's baths; some fair grots and water-works, that noble -cascade where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inventions, -walks, terraces, meanders, fruit trees, and a most goodly prospect over -the greatest part of the city. One fountain under the gate I must not -omit, consisting of three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or -proboscides of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the -inscription: - - "_Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit? - Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam._" - -23d January, 1645. We went without the walls of the city to visit St. -Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own head after -Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church was founded by the great -Constantine; the main roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, -and the Mosaic work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient -story A^o 440; as is likewise that of the _facciata_. The gates are -brass, made at Constantinopole in 1070, as you may read by those Greek -verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in -breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of -whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis -V. S. I. reparavit_." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which -they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two -excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. -Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious Oriental marbles -about the high altar, where are also four excellent paintings, whereof -one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a -Bolognian lady, named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of -excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento -are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this venerable -church, as a part of St. Anna; the head of the Woman of Samaria; the -chain which bound St. Paul, and the _eculeus_ used in tormenting the -primitive Christians. The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a -mile from the walls of the city, separated from many buildings near it -except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, going -over the mountain or little rising, upon which story says a hundred -seventy and four thousand Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, -Dioclesian, and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's and St. -Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose -Tribuna is a very fair Mosaic work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as -they are called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas that -of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in the middle; in this -they show the pillar to which St. Paul was bound, when his head was cut -off, and from whence it made three prodigious leaps, where there -immediately broke out the three remaining fountains, which give -denomination to this church. The waters are reported to be medicinal: -over each is erected an altar and a chained ladle, for better tasting of -the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of -Guido. - -25th January, 1645. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some -certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the Major-Domo not -being within, I could not formerly obtain. In the hall stands that -triumphant Colosse of one of the family, upon three figures, a modern, -but rare piece. About it stood some Gladiators; and, at the entrance into -one of the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of AGE and YOUTH, -brought hither from St. Peter's to make room for the Longinus under the -cupola. Here was the statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a -most incomparable expression of Fury, cut in stone; and a table of -_pietra-commessa_, very curious. The next chamber was all painted _a -fresco_, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the ceiling, -which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian mode is, and not poor -plaster, as ours are; some of them most richly gilt. In a third room, -stood the famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of -Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo; the -sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard, black ophite stone, -taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated by the antiquaries: -likewise two tables of brass, containing divers old Roman laws. At -another side of this chamber, was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling -from her horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever the -artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Bacchanalia, with a most -curious Silenus. The fourth room was totally environed with statues; -especially observable was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking -backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old -Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of them looking on her -face in a glass, by M. Angelo; the other is painted by Caracci. I never -saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are -not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues; -most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Cæsars -and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of -that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, -the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe -above they showed us fine wrought plate, porcelain, mazers of beaten and -solid gold, set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; a treasure, -especially the workmanship considered, of inestimable value. This is all -the Duke of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare in its -kind than the complete service of the purest crystal, for the altar of -the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, etc., were all of -the rock, incomparably sculptured, with the holy story in deep Levati; -thus was also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flowerpots, the -largest and purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked on -this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in Rome. In another -part were presses furnished with antique arms, German clocks, perpetual -motions, watches, and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture -of Pope Eugenius; a St. Bernard; and a head of marble found long since, -supposed to be a true portrait of our Blessed Savior's face. - -Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours, -who had some intendency in an hospital built on the Via Triumphalis, -called Christ's Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where the -sick lay, was paved with various colored marbles, and the walls hung with -noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the middle is a stately cupola, -under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight -of the sick, who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. -The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate the people -in pain. To this joins an apartment destined for the orphans; and there -is a school: the children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital -of the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such -children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned. In another -quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught -letters. In another, 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious -matrons, in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were -at least 2,000 more maintained in other places. I think one apartment had -in it near 1,000 beds; these are in a very long room, having an inner -passage for those who attend, with as much care, sweetness, and -conveniency as can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat. -Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. Opposite to -this, are other chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare -and difficult cure, and they have rooms apart. At the end of the long -corridor is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stored; near which -are chambers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous. -Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered to a treasurer, -who makes an inventory, and is accountable to them, or their -representatives if they die. - -To this building joins the house of the commendator, who, with his -officers attending the sick, make up ninety persons; besides a convent -and an ample church for the friars and priests who daily attend. The -church is extremely neat, and the _sacristia_ is very rich. Indeed it is -altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw. Nor -is the benefit small which divers young physicians and chirurgeons reap -by the experience they learn here among the sick, to whom those students -have free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near the Port St. -Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua Paula, being the -aqueduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; -a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the city after a journey -of thirty-five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out -of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. Situate on a -very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially -when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it -are: - - "_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto Cæsare - extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam - restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V._" - -And toward the fields: - - "_Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi - temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem._" - - * * * * * - - [One or more leaves are here wanting in Evelyn's MS., descriptive of - other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the city.] - -Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where is a public -and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and a stately fountain in -the street. Here we lay and drank excellent wine. - -28th January, 1645. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this morning -down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full of olive trees; and, anon, -pass a tower built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the banditti -who infest those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord -Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this -guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still -on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernæ_ (whither the brethren came from Rome -to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, -resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged -by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work. The country -environing this passage is hilly, but rich; on the right hand stretches -an ample plain, being the _Pomptini Campi_. We reposed this night at -Piperno, in the posthouse without the town; and here I was extremely -troubled with a sore hand, which now began to fester, from a mischance at -Rome, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule; which -are the most wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet -Virgil's Camilla born. - -The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy of about thirty -firelocks, to guard us through the cork woods (much infested with the -banditti) as far as Fossa Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now -stands a church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas Aquinas -both studied and lies buried. Here we all alighted, and were most -courteously received by the Monks, who showed us many relics of their -learned Saint and at the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof -which he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, built after -the Gothic manner; but the place is very agreeably melancholy. After -this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a -little), we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and afterward -as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul, twenty-five -feet broad, every twelve feet something ascending for the ease and firmer -footing of horse and man; both the sides are also a little raised for -those who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone, -and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with some old ruin, sepulchre, or -broken statue. In one of these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in -the time of Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady, swimming -in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as if she -had been living, neither her face discolored, nor her hair disordered; at -her feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the -vault; having flamed, as was computed, now 1,500 years, by the conjecture -that she was Tulliola, the daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus found, -and as the inscription testified. We dined this day at Terracina, -heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory, -the Circean by name. While meat was preparing, I went up into the town, -and viewed the fair remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a -church, adorned with most stately columns; its architecture has been -excellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices, moldings, and huge -white marbles of which it is built. Before the portico stands a pillar -thus inscribed: - - "_Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta - Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco;_" - -for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches. - -On another more ancient: - - "_Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus - Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. - xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit._" - -Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then: - - "_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect. - Classis.--Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, II. vir._" - -[Sidenote: FONDI] - -Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something engraven on it, but -I could not stay to consider it. Coming down again, I went toward the -sea-side to contemplate that stupendous strange rock and promontory, -cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is the -Circean Cave, which I went into a good way; it makes a dreadful noise, by -reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continually assaulting the -beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive height, -stands an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at Fondi, a -most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa, -and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph -saluted us: "_Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus -advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_." -The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it -was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by most -stupendous labor: here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres -and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi, -we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every -corner, charged with fruit. - -29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous for the generous -wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset -with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange -trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiæ], -where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a -rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable -orator was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was -delighted with the sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed among -all sorts of verdure; besides being now come within sight of the noble -city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising prospect along the -Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theater: and here we beheld that strangely -cleft rock, a frightful spectacle, which they say happened upon the -passion of our Blessed Savior; but the haste of our procaccio did not -suffer us to dwell so long on these objects and the many antiquities of -this town as we desired. - -At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot; dining at Mola, and passing Sinuessa, -Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and beheld the ruins of that vast -amphitheater and aqueduct yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded -the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massacus, celebrated for its wine, now -named Garo; and this night we lodged at a little village called St. -Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, near to Aurunca and Sessa. - -The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the Torre -di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in danger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by -debauching his enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant -plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I think, -the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw the -slender ruins of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome -and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a heap of rubbish, -except showing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces of -temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, vaults, colosses, etc., -confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is, -however, a new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out -of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples (which is about ten -or twelve English post miles) is as straight as a line, of great breadth, -fuller of travelers than I remember any of our greatest and most -frequented roads near London; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the -great fertility of the fields, planted with fruit trees, whose boles are -serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant, that it is -commonly reported one vine will load five mules with its grapes. What -adds much to the pleasure of the sight is, that the vines, climbing to -the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to -another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful picture -than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives, -pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare -fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came -three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took -leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitáno, -their gallant. - -[Sidenote: NAPLES] - -31st January, 1645. About noon we entered the city of Naples, alighting -at the Three Kings, where we found the most plentiful fare all the time -we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down -to fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat and fruits. - -The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired a coach to carry -us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a -very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which -lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent -islands, as far as Capreæ, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. -This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and -garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and -rareness of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, -churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount Vesuvius -in the distance, all in full command of the eye, make it one of the -richest landscapes in the world. - -Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called Il Castello Nuovo, -which protects the shore; but they would by no entreaty permit us to go -in; the outward defense seems to consist but in four towers, very high, -and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to this is the -tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. - -Then we went to the very noble palace of the Viceroy, partly old, and -part of a newer work; but we did not stay long here. Toward the evening, -we took the air upon the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised -in the sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa. -Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of the piazza, and adorned -with divers rare statues of copper, representing the Sirens, or Deities -of the Parthenope, spouting large streams of water into an ample shell, -all of cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance of the -Mole, where we met many of the nobility both on horseback and in their -coaches to take the fresco from the sea, as the manner is, it being in -the most advantageous quarter for good air, delight and prospect. Here we -saw divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders, the -Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and paved -with a square hewn stone. From the Mole, we ascend to a church of great -antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters -carved on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. It -is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines. - -The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and except St. Peter's in Rome, -Naples exceeds all cities for stately churches and monasteries. We were -told that this day the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be -exposed, and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of the -boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was St. Peter's, richly -adorned, the chapel especially, where that Apostle said mass, as is -testified on the wall. - -After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix -that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Benè de me -scripsisti, Thoma_." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the -monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro. - -We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, -where we spent much time in surveying the chapel of Joh. Jov. Pontanus, -and in it the several and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, -wife, children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording, -as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of -Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "_Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. -Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos -hôc in loco ponendum curavit._" - -Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the -Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect toward the sea and -city, the one full of galleys and ships, the other of stately palaces, -churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, -Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreæ, -Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the -most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is -most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister being all -laid with variously polished marbles, richly figured. They showed us a -massy cross of silver, much celebrated for the workmanship and carving, -and said to have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also is of -rare art; but above all to be admired, is the yet unfinished church of -the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, not to be equalled in Europe. -Hence, we passed by the Palazzo Caraffii, full of ancient and very noble -statues: also the palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little but -visit some friends, English merchants, resident for their negotiation; -only this morning at the Viceroy's Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses -that I had ever beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that -address and dexterity as I had never seen anything approach it. - -4th February, 1645. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities -in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of -the most observable palaces in the city, the repository of incomparable -rarities. Among the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina -and Pinna marina; the male and female chameleon; an Onocrotatus; an -extraordinary great crocodile; some of the Orcades Anates, held here for -a great rarity; likewise a salamander; the male and female Manucordiata, -the male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported the female -both lays and hatches her eggs; the mandragoras, of both sexes; Papyrus, -made of several reeds, and some of silk; tables of the rinds of trees, -written with Japonic characters; another of the branches of palm; many -Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within -its cavity; a petrified fisher's net; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a -monstrous spider, with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger. - -5th February, 1645. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which -was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music that accompanied -the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony took up most of the morning. - -6th February, 1645. We went by coach to take the air, and see the -diversions, or rather madness of the Carnival; the courtesans (who swarm -in this city to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registered and -paying a tax to the State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach, -as we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is so pestered -with these cattle, that there needs no small mortification to preserve -from their enchantment, while they display all their natural and -artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand -studied devices seek to inveigle foolish young men. - -[Sidenote: VESUVIUS] - -7th February, 1645. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles out -of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount Vesuvius. Here we -pass a fair fountain, called Labulla, which continually boils, supposed -to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridge, where on a -large upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to the -memorable eruption in 1630. - -Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules, we alighted, -crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with -our feet, now with our hands, not without many untoward slips which did -much bruise us on the various colored cinders, with which the whole -mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone, -others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I -made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive -altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the -goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, Elysian Fields, -Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a -great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at -once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. -The mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and -commonly appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. Here, as we -approached, we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out of which -issued such sulphurous blasts and smoke, that we dared not stand long -near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself down to look -over into that most frightful and terrible vorago, a stupendous pit of -near three miles in circuit, and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular -hollow cliff (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now -and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at the bottom is -plane, like an even floor, which seems to be made by the wind circling -the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped -like a great brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, -continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an -impetuous noise and roaring, like the report of many muskets discharging. -This horrid barathrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the -strangeness of the spectacle, and the mention which the old histories -make of it, as one of the most stupendous curiosities in nature, and -which made the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect -the causes, and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise -famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did so much -mischief to the State lurking among and protected by, these horrid -caverns, when it was more accessible and less dangerous than it is now; -but especially notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in -_anno_ 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the memory of -history; throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity, as -not only environed the whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed -divers towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than a -hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards, where -formerly grew the most incomparable Greco; when, bursting through the -bowels of the earth, it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling -waters, drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruction, as -is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climbed up, -through a deep valley of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a -flowing river of melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules -at the foot of the mountain. - -On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baia, and -natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we entered the mountain -Pausilypus, at the left hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre -erected on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda or cupolated column, -but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay trees. At the entrance is -this inscription: - - _Stanisi Cencovius. - 1589 - Qui cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim - Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. - Can Ree MDLIII._[26] - - [Footnote 26: Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn; - but as its sense is not very clear, and the Diary contains - instances of incorrectness in transcribing, it may be desirable - to subjoin the distich said (by Keysler in his "Travels," ii. 433) - to be the only one in the whole mausoleum: - - "_Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim - Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces._"] - -After we were advanced into this noble and altogether wonderful crypt, -consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go abreast, -cut through a rocky mountain near three quarters of a mile (by the -ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who -employed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the midway, where -there is a well bored through the diameter of this vast mountain, which -admits the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, -wherein hang divers lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under -foot; but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively in this -much-frequented passage, that we were forced at midday to use a torch. At -length, we were delivered from the bowels of the earth into one of the -most delicious plains in the world: the oranges, lemons, pomegranates, -and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green trees; for the -summer is here eternal, caused by the natural and adventitious heat of -the earth, warmed through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our -guide, who alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife, and -delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to hold it in my -hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines, and exotics grow -readily. - -[Sidenote: LAGO D'AGNANO] - -We now came to a lake of about two miles in circumference, environed with -hills; the water of it is fresh and sweet on the surface, but salt at -bottom; some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported -of that profunditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people -call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents which, involved -together about the spring, fall down from the cliffy hills into it. It -has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a -dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave; it is not above three or -four paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. Whatever -having life enters it, presently expires. Of this we made trial with two -dogs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the more -directly into the further part of the den, where he was no sooner -entered, but--without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, except -that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes being -fixed:--we drew him out dead to all appearance; but immediately plunging -him into the adjoining lake, within less than half an hour he recovered, -and swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same on another -dog, without the application of the water, and left him quite dead. The -experiment has been made on men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of -Toledo caused to go in; likewise on some Turkish slaves; two soldiers, -and other foolhardy persons, who all perished, and could never be -recovered by the water of the lake, as are dogs; for which many learned -reasons have been offered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the -Canicular-days has mentioned, colloq. 15. And certainly the most likely -is, the effect of those hot and dry vapors which ascend out of the earth, -and are condensed by the ambient cold, as appears by their converting -into crystalline drops on the top, while at the bottom it is so -excessively hot, that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a -little distance, was suddenly re-lighted. - -Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of the nature of -sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned with stone for the sick to -sweat in, the vapors here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success -in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up -a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a -furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields -Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. -We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter -of a mile in breadth, the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of -whose sides and foot break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a -noise like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud reports, -like so many guns. The heat of this place is wonderful, the earth itself -being almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so -hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds -like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water thus struggling with -those fires bubbles and spouts aloft into the air. The mouths of these -spiracles are bestrewed with variously colored cinders, which rise with -the vapor, as do many colored stones, according to the quality of the -combustible matter, insomuch as it is no little adventure to approach -them. They are, however, daily frequented both by sick and well; the -former receiving the fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed -incurable. Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they refine -in certain houses near the place, casting it into canes, to a very great -value. Near this we were showed a hill of alum, where is one of the best -mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are -found here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade themselves -that here are the gates of purgatory (for which it may be they have -erected, very near it, a convent, and named it St. Januarius), reporting -to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from -these caverns and volcanoes; with other legends of birds that are never -seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into the lake at night, -appearing no more all the week after. - -We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple, or theater, of 172 -feet in length, and about 80 in breadth, thrown down by an earthquake, -not long since; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are -many strange meanders; from which it is named the LABYRINTH; this place -is so haunted with bats, that their perpetual fluttering endangered the -putting out our links. - -[Sidenote: POZZOLO] - -Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking hills, till we came to -Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paul, when -he came into Italy, after the tempest described in the Acts of the -Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals, -antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country people, who daily -find such things among the very old ruins of those places. This town was -formerly a Greek colony, built by the Samians, a seasonable commodious -port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of Neptune's -Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and near it the stately palace and -gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterward, we visited -that admirably built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of -an entire rock, though indeed consisting of several square stones. The -inscription remains thus: "_L. Calphurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum -ornamentis D. D._;" and under it, "_L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus -Architectus_." It is now converted into a church, in which they showed us -huge bones, which they affirm to have been of some giant. - -We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact with that -bituminous sand in which the materials are laid, as the like is hardly to -be found, though all this has not been sufficient to protect it from the -fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have -almost demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remaining; a -stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune! To this joins the bridge of -Caligula, by which (having now embarked ourselves) we sailed to the -pleasant Baia, almost four miles in length, all which way that proud -Emperor would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along toward a villa of the -orator Cicero's, where we were shown the ruins of his Academy; and, at -the foot of a rock, his Baths, the waters reciprocating their tides with -the neighboring sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I -conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here float in abundance -on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable matter by the fire, which -renders them light and porous, so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep -under them, having taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for -fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place. From hence, we -coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius, where we might see divers -stately palaces that had been swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. -Coming to shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore for -its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being divided from the -sea by a bank of incredible labor, the supposed work of Hercules; it is -now half choked up with rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which -rose partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the space -of one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on the 29th September, -1538, after many terrible earthquakes, which ruined divers places -thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning -on the sudden, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in -such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their fall, making the -inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their habitations, supposing the end of -the world had been come. - -From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round -form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the -poet for the gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and where he -sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black -color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the -river Styx has its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a -Temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is controverted. -Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, -in which having gone about two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry -which leads us into a room of about ten paces long, proportionably broad -and high; the side walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic, though -now exceedingly decayed by time. Here is a short cell or rather niche, -cut out of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they -report that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is supposed -by most to have been a bath only. This subterranean grot leads quite -through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has -sunk in, so as we were constrained back again, and to creep on our -bellies, before we came to the light. It is reported Nero had once -resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that should have extended -to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. - -From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of Italy, the renowned -Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent promontory, but -is now a heap of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco Felice, -heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly -buildings; among whose heaps are frequently found statues and other -antiquities, by such as dig for them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia, -and Acheron. Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli and -Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut through the main rock, -where the vapors ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you -will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as -sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many -infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that -famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not -without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that -the sun shines on, according to that of Horace: - - "_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amoenis._" - -Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the -ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of -Venus. Here were those famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand -when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock -stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish -pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Cæsar. - -Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the -monstrous murder of Nero committed on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre -was yet shown us in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry -heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree turned into -stone, and are continually dropping. - -[Sidenote: MISENUS] - -Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, the palaces of -Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we -proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of -Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to -have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles -distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. -Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar died; and here -runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, -heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we -walked to those receptacles of water called _Piscina Mirabilis_, being a -vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in breadth, the roof propped up -with four ranks of square pillars, twelve in a row; the walls are brick, -plastered over with such a composition as for strength and politure -resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been built by Nero, as a -conservatory for fresh water; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into -which we were next led. All these crypta being now almost sunk into the -earth, show yet their former amplitude and magnificence. - -Returning toward the Baia, we again pass the Elysian Fields, so -celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their situation and verdure, -being full of myrtles and sweet shrubs, and having a most delightful -prospect toward the Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the -ruins of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus; over the arches stand -divers urns, full of Roman ashes. - -Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiquities, we retired -to our felucca, which rowed us back again toward Pozzolo, at the very -place of St. Paul's landing. Keeping along the shore, they showed us a -place where the sea water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the -island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph; and thus we leave the Baia, so -renowned for the sweet retirements of the most opulent and voluptuous -Romans. They certainly were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet -tempting site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily -invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so many stupendous -rarities to be met with, as in the circle of a few miles which environ -these blissful abodes. - -[Sidenote: NAPLES] - -8th February, 1645. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal, well -furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city is crowded with -inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. The government is held of the Pope -by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the -Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects there; -Apulia and Calabria yielding him near four millions of crowns yearly to -maintain it. The country is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty -Archbishops, and one hundred and seven Bishops; the estates of the -nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the -Vice-Roy, there is among the Chief Magistrates a High Constable, -Admiral, Chief Justice, Great Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a -Secretary; these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enrich -themselves out of the miserable people's labor, silks, manna, sugar, oil, -wine, rice, sulphur, and alum; for with all these riches is this -delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons on the -adjoining hills in form of a thick dew. The very winter here is a summer, -ever fruitful, so that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries, -apricots, and many other sorts of fruit. - -The building of the city is for the size the most magnificent of any in -Europe, the streets exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults and -conveyances under them for the sulliage; which renders them very sweet -and clean, even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 3,000 -churches and monasteries, and these the best built and adorned of any in -Italy. They greatly affect the Spanish gravity in their habit; delight in -good horses; the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches -and sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. -The women are generally well featured, but excessively libidinous. The -country people so jovial and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen -almost universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs in -praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the field with their -fiddle; they are merry, witty, and genial; all which I much attribute to -the excellent quality of the air. They have a deadly hatred to the -French, so that some of our company were flouted at for wearing red -cloaks, as the mode then was. - -This I made the _non ultra_ of my travels, sufficiently sated with -rolling up and down, and resolving within myself to be no longer an -_individuum vagum_, if ever I got home again; since, from the report of -divers experienced and curious persons, I had been assured there was -little more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, -France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and prodigious -barbarism. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -Thus, about the 7th of February,[27] we set out on our return to Rome by -the same way we came, not daring to adventure by sea, as some of our -company were inclined to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that -coast; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place -and sepulchre of the famous duelists who decided the ancient quarrel -between their imperious neighbors with the loss of their lives. These -brothers, the Horatii and Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under -two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown with -rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which is -famous. - - [Footnote 27: Evelyn's dates in this portion of his Diary appear to - require occasionally that qualification of "about."] - -Being arrived at Rome on the 13th of February, we were again invited to -Signor Angeloni's study, where with greater leisure we surveyed the -rarities, as his cabinet and medals especially, esteemed one of the best -collections of them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps, one -of them dedicated to Pallas, the other _Laribus Sacru'_, as appeared by -their inscriptions; some old Roman rings and keys; the Egyptian Isis, -cast in iron; sundry rare basso-relievos; good pieces of paintings, -principally of Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face -admirably done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos; a great number of -pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of natural -rarities, dried animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, etc.; divers -very antique statues of brass; some lamps of so fine an earth that they -resembled cornelians, for transparency and color; hinges of Corinthian -brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in the ruins of Nero's -golden house. - -In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the palace of Gichi, -to review the works of Raphael: and, returning by St. Angelo, we saw the -castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side considered those -admirable pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons -Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor three or four -water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the -Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of -Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _á fresco_, -preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one -of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world. - -14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endowed -by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of -this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a -veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the -body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in snow-white -marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps, -and incensories of great cost. A little farther, they show us the Bath of -St. Cecilia, to which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of -the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico, taken from the -Baths of Septimius Severus. - -15th February, 1645. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber, and visited -the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of -a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the -mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here -are the ruins of the Temple of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately -hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church -of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken -altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a -cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it, -Santa Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to -be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing -also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of -Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the foot of Mount -Aventine, are the Pope's salt houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St. -Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; there, in a chapel, -is an admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about with -columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the church is a stone, cast, -as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic, while he was at mass. Hence, -we traveled toward a heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on the bank -of the Tiber, a magazine of stones; and near which formerly stood a -triumphal arch, in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins -of the bridge yet appear. - -We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a heap of potsherds, almost 200 feet -high, thought to have been thrown there and amassed by the subjects of -the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more -probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters lived; at the -summit Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it is a spacious green, -called the Hippodrome, where Olympic games were celebrated, and the -people mustered, as in our London Artillery-Ground. Going hence, to the -old wall of the city, we much admired the pyramid, or tomb, of Caius -Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient entire monuments, -inserted in the wall, with this inscription: - - "_C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pl. - VII. Vir. Epulonum._" - -And a little beneath: - - "_Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. - F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L._" - -At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which -the three Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, -bending homeward by St. Saba, by Antoninus's baths (which we entered), is -the marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and the -stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these baths. Passing by a -corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the -Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by -Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Naviculâ, so -named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal -before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a -glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathæi, -which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I -was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, -aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and -maintained in beauty at an expense of 6,000 crowns yearly, which, if not -expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the possession of a greater -revenue to another family: so curious are they in their villas and places -of pleasure, even to excess. - -The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst -of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and ancient -obelisks, full of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces, -when overthrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased and -transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earl of Arundel, -could it have been well removed to the sea. This is since set together -and placed on the stupendous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and -serving for a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope's -architect. Near this is the sepulchre of Metellus, of massy stone, pretty -entire, now called Capo di Bovo. Hence, to a small oratory, named -"_Domine, quo vadis_"; where the tradition is, that our Blessed Savior -met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again. - -St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciáta_ excepted), -but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the -ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with -the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well -full of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of -the arrows (used in shooting him). These are preserved by the Fulgentine -Monks, who have here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto -which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground; the sides, or -walls which we passed were filled with bones and dead bodies, laid (as it -were) on shelves, whereof some were shut up with broad stones and now and -then a cross, or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these -subterranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them, said to -have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, in the times of -persecution, nor seems it improbable. - -17th February, 1645. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy of the -Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signor Mancini, where the -wits of the town meet on certain days to recite poems, and debate on -several subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and stands in -an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By -these ingenious exercises, besides the learned discourses, is the purity -of the Italian tongue daily improved. The room is hung round with -devices, or emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several other -Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the -Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor -Fido, once of this society. The chief part of the day we spent in hearing -the academic exercises. - -18th February, 1645. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has a fair -front, and within are parts of the bodies of St. Mark and Marcellino; on -the Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval; -Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we -passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totally in -ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English Jesuits, with whose -Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted; who received us -courteously. They call their church and college St. Thomasso de gli -Inglesi, and is a seminary. Among other trifles, they show the relics of -Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and -many representing the sufferings of several of their society executed in -England, especially F. Campion. - -In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had seen the feet of -many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble Romans, and served -at table, as the ladies and noble women did to other poor creatures in -another room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had been thus -treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appears by the -register, which brings store of money. - -Returning homeward, I saw the palace of Cardinal Spada, where is a most -magnificent hall painted by Daniel de Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who -made the fret in the little Court; but the rare perspectives are of -Bolognesi. Near this is the Mont Pieta, instituted as a bank for the -poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon pawns. To this -joins St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or Corporation, that do -many works of charity. Hence we came through Campo di Fiori, or -herb-market, in the midst of which is a fountain casting out water of a -dolphin, in copper; and in this piazza is common execution done. - -19th February, 1645. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John -Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had his apartment in -Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as -Vice-chancellor of the Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The -building is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted marble, with -four ranks of noble lights; the principal entrance is of Fontana's -design, and all marble; the portico within sustained by massy columns; -on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by -Salviati and Vasari; and so ample is this palace, that six princes with -their families have been received in it at one time, without incommoding -each other. - -20th February, 1645. I went, as was my usual custom, and spent an -afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well as to see what antiquities I could -purchase among the people who hold market there for medals, pictures, and -such curiosities, as to hear the mountebanks prate and distribute their -medicines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedicated to sports -and pastimes, and is now the greatest market of the city, having three -most noble fountains, and the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St. -Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents -for friars and nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most -stately catafalco, or capellar ardente, for the death of the Queen of -Spain; the church was hung with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, -or funeral oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung -about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights -and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by -Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciáta_, -too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at -the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste -up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly been -one of the best statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as the -remaining bust does still show. - -21st February, 1645. I walked in the morning up the hill toward the -Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to the late Pope -Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty church, full of -rare pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still -does miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. It is a lofty -edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air. After -dinner, passing along the Strada del Corso, I observed the column of -Antoninus, passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, -heretofore erected in honor of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a -Cardinal living near it. A little further on the right hand stands the -column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius -Antoninus, comprehending in a basso-relievo of white marble his hostile -acts against the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, etc; but it is now -somewhat decayed. On the summit has been placed the image of St. Paul, of -gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 feet high, ascended by 207 -steps, receiving light by fifty-six apertures, without defacing the -sculpture. - -At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's palace, the heads -of whose pillars show them to have been Corinthian. - -Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in which stands a -sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair fountain; but the grace of this -market, and indeed the admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, -now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, and -still remaining the most entire antiquity of the city. It was built by -Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico, sustained by -thirteen pillars of Theban marble, six feet thick, and fifty-three in -height, of one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. - -Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly covered with one -cupola, seemingly suspended in the air, and receiving light by a hole in -the middle only. The structure is near as high as broad, viz, 144 feet, -not counting the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more to the -top, all of white marble; and, till Urban VIII. converted part of the -metal into ordnance of war against the Duke of Parma, and part to make -the high altar in St. Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian -brass, ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of the -cupola, richly carved in octagons in the stone. There are niches in the -walls, in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other -Gods and Goddesses; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the -other Union[28] that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up, as -she had done its fellow. There are several of these niches, one above -another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities; but the -place is now converted into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and -all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-gates, of -Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the Roman antiquities the most -worthy of notice. There lie interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di -Urbino, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. - - [Footnote 28: - - And in the cup an UNION shall he throw, - Richer than that which four successive kings - In Denmark's crown have worn. - --Shakespeare, "Hamlet," Act v. Sc. 2. - - Theobald says, an UNION is the finest sort of pearl, and has its - place in all crowns and coronets. The Latin word for a single large - pearl, it is hardly necessary to add, is _unio_.] - -Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of -architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole -Corso. - -22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a monastery of French, a -noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well -painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with -the miracles of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French -Kings. In the _pergolo_ above, the walls are wrought with excellent -perspective, especially the St. John; there are the Babylonish dials, -invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. This convent, so eminently situated on -Mons Pincius, has the entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair -garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici. - -23d February, 1645. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo degli -Incurabili, a fair church built by F. da Volterra, of good architecture, -and so is the hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I -passed the evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, -where his ashes lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins -the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius, -and in the church is the miraculous shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul -III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over the -Turks in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some rare paintings of -Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those two in the choir are by Sansovino, -and in the Chapel de Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many -great scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription: - - "_Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis, - Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo._" - -Opposite to the _facciátæ_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of -hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the -Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and -since placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of one -entire stone, and placed with great art and engines by the famous -Domenico Fontana. - -Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to -Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so prominently built as -threatening every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand -years. Under this is the burying place for the common prostitutes, where -they are put into the ground, _sans ceremonie_. - -24th February, 1645. We walked to St. Roche's and Martine's, near the -brink of the Tiber, a large hospital for both sexes. Hence, to the -Mausoleum Augusti, between the Tiber and the Via Flaminia, now much -ruined, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It -was intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and -was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed with stately trees -and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed -the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of good -marbles, especially the portico, of admirable architecture. These are -properly the University Schools, where lectures are read on Law, -Medicine, and Anatomy, and students perform their exercises. - -Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della Valle, near the former -Theater of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this church -and the Order, who are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a -chapel, of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare -paintings. Under it is a place where St. Sebastian is said to have been -beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is painted by -Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and monastery -adjoining are admirable. - -25th February, 1645. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom we usually -heard preach to a number of Jews, to be godfather to a converted Turk and -Jew. The ceremony was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la -Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; then exorcised at -their entering the church with abundance of ceremonies, and, when led -into the choir, were baptized by a Bishop, _in pontificalibus_. The Turk -lived afterward in Rome, sold hot waters and would bring us presents when -he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our cloaks; but the Jew was -believed to be a counterfeit. This church, situated on a spacious rising, -was formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and richly -adorned, and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The -paintings of the chapel are by Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the -altar is by Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of -the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt publicly here, -especially at the procession on the Annunciation, where I saw his -Holiness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., _in pontificalibus_; -dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his -tiara on his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open -armchair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue of Christ, at the -Columna, is esteemed one of the masterpieces of M. Angelo: innumerable -are the paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of -the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We returned by St. -Mark's, a stately church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by -Perugino, of the Two Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built -by the famous Bramante. - -26th February, 1645. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum Trajanum, -where his column stands yet entire, wrought with admirable basso-relievo -recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the -same proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps, -enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially disposed; in -height from the pedestal 140 feet. - -It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands St. -Peter's of gilt brass, erected by Pope Sextus V. The sculpture of this -stupendous pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus; but what is -very observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal, showing -how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins; this monument being -at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner, we took the air in -Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had -a fair palace built by several good masters on part of the ruins of -Constantine's Baths; well adorned with columns and paintings, especially -those of Guido Reni. - -27th February, 1645. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and myself walked to the -Trophies of Marius, erected in honor of his victory over the Cimbrians, -but these now taken out of their niches are placed on the balusters of -the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping on our -way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the -demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he threw down; and it -was here, they report, he deposited the wood of the true Cross, found by -his mother, Helena; in honor whereof this church was built, and in memory -of his victory over Maxentius when that holy sign appeared to him. The -edifice without is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof, -and one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to St. -Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought from Jerusalem; the walls -are of fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter, save once a -year. Under the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in -Lydian marble, and Benedict VII.; and they show a number of relics, -exposed at our request; with a phial of our blessed Savior's blood; two -thorns of his crown; three chips of the real cross; one of the nails, -wanting a point; St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the -title (put on the cross), being part of a thin board; some of Judas's -pieces of silver; and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this -venerable church joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an -ancient amphitheatre. - -Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port of St. Laurence, to -that Saint's church, and where his ashes are enshrined. This was also -built by the same great Constantine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro -Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by Honorius II. It is said -the corpse of St. Stephen, the proto martyr, was deposited here by that -of St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebastian gave it -place of its own accord. The Church has no less than seven privileged -altars, and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this -martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers -saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our -return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the -prætor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading -to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired. - -We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the -Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places; but -the most remarkable were the three races of the Barbary horses, that run -in the Strada del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on -their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their motion to -stimulate them: then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, naked men, old -and young, and boys, and abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing -is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or -_plaustrum_, where the scene, or tiring place, is made of boughs in a -rural manner, which they drive from street to street with a yoke or two -of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, -buffoons, and all manner of rabble. - -1st March, 1645. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern ceremonies -performed by a Bishop, etc., in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke -and Duchess of Bouillon received their ashes, it being the first day of -Lent. There was now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day -before of licentious people; all saints alike to appearance. - -The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues -and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix; -a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of -the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole -gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with -noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile farther, we came to Pons -Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the -miraculous sign of the cross, _In hoc signo vinces_. It was a sweet -morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence, to Aqua Claudia -again, an aqueduct finished by that Emperor at the expense of eight -millions. In the afternoon, to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo -Vaccino; and upon the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's -Temple, in the Piscina, a piazza so-called near the famous bridge built -by Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV. - -The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear the sermons, at -St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same -subjects and text yearly, full of Italian eloquence and action. On our -Lady day, 25th March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the -Minerva, the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo being fired, when he -gives portions to 500 _zitelle_ (young women), who kiss his feet in -procession, some destined to marry, some to be nuns;--the scholars of the -college celebrating the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next -day, his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent to -several great Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on our -Savior's feeding the multitude with five loaves, the ceremony ends. The -sacrament being this day exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross, the -concourse about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday, there was a -great procession, after a papal mass. - -11th April, 1645. St. Veronica's handkerchief (with the impression of our -Savior's face) was exposed, and the next day the spear, with a world of -ceremony. On Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the -Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This -finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders -to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coenâ Domini_, he both curses -and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he -went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve -poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at Whitehall; they -have clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives with his own hands, and -serves at their table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their -garments are of white woolen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The -same ceremonies are done by the Conservators and other officers of state -at St. John di Lateran; and now the table on which they say our blessed -Lord celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the -Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dressing up their -pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visit -divers. - -On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where the handkerchief, -lance, and cross were all exposed, and worshiped together. All the -confession seats were filled with devout people, and at night was a -procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves till the -blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the bare -back, having visors and masks on their faces; at every three or four -steps dashing the knotted and raveled whip cord over their shoulders, as -hard as they could lay it on; while some of the religious orders and -fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, -making all together a horrible and indeed heathenish pomp. - -The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di Laterano, so as the -whole week was spent in running from church to church, all the town in -busy devotion, great silence, and unimaginable superstition. - -Easter day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo: we went to St. -Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated mass, showed the relics -before-named, and gave a public Benediction. - -Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova; and, though there were -abundance of ceremonies at the other great churches, and great exposure -of relics, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season -of the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by reason of the heat -minding us of returning northward, we spent the rest of our time in -visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seen. Only I do not -forget the Pope's benediction of the _Gonfalone_, or Standard, and giving -the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the -University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a -foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took -coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, being -much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield, -guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about -twenty paces, which delivered us into a large entry that led us into -several streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a -strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and -described them in his book. We ever and anon came into pretty square -rooms, that seemed to be chapels with altars, and some adorned with very -ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed on the -sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut -up with a coarse flat stone, having engraven on them _Pro Christo_, or a -cross and palms, which are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all -likelihood, were the meetings of the Primitive Christians during the -persecutions, as Pliny the Younger describes them. As I was prying about, -I found a glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) with dried blood, and -two lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there -appeared nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the -chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus, after -wandering two or three miles in this subterranean meander, we returned -almost blind when we came into the daylight, and even choked by the smoke -of the torches. It is said that a French bishop and his retinue -adventuring too far into these dens, their lights going out, were never -heard of more. - -We were entertained at night with an English play at the Jesuits', where -we before had dined; and the next day at Prince Galicano's, who himself -composed the music to a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal -Pamphilio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the cardinals, the -ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. There had -been in the morning a joust and tournament of several young gentlemen on -a formal defy, to which we had been invited; the prizes being distributed -by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The lancers and swordsmen -running at tilt against the barriers, with a great deal of clatter, but -without any bloodshed, giving much diversion to the spectators, and was -new to us travelers. - -The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending the -entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the ambassador from the Grand -Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the -Villa Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is rather a -park, or a Paradise, contrived and planted with walks and shades of -myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and groves, with abundance of -fountains, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring -rivulets. Here they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was -also a vivary, where, among other exotic fowls, was an ostrich; besides a -most capacious aviary; and, in another inclosed part, a herd of deer. -Before the palace (which might become the court of a great prince) stands -a noble fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The outer walls -of the house are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the -same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with statues from -the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of -statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. -In the first hall were the Twelve Cæsars, of antique marble, and the -whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters, -and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for -I often visited this delicious place. - -This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Cardinal Medici -before the gate, and lights of several colors all about the windows -through the city, which they contrive by setting the candles in little -paper lanterns dyed with various colors, placing hundreds of them from -story to story; which renders a gallant show. - -4th May, 1645. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of Lucca, I went -to the Vatican, where, by favor of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. -Barberini, I was admitted into the Consistory, heard the ambassador make -his oration in Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or -throne, and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was presented -to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding -up his vest and surplice; and then, being sufficiently blessed with his -thumb and two fingers for that day I returned home to dinner. - -We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi, which are absolutely -the best collection in Rome. - -Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, found -on the snowy Alps; I measured the hydra, and found it not a foot long; -the three necks and fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several -pieces of serpents' skins. - -5th May, 1645. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of the city to -Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built for -a country house; but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious places -I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, -ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent -architecture) in the centre of the inclosure, rises a high hill, or -mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so formed by nature, as if it -had been cut out by art, from the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming -rather a great river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of -water, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when the sun shines -out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, wherein are curious rocks, -hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds, moving and chirping by -force of the water, with several other pageants and surprising -inventions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper ball that -continually dances about three feet above the pavement, by virtue of a -wind conveyed secretly to a hole beneath it; with many other devices to -wet the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to -the skin. In one of these theaters of water, is an Atlas spouting up the -stream to a very great height; and another monster makes a terrible -roaring with a horn; but, above all, the representation of a storm is -most natural, with such fury of rain, wind, and thunder, as one would -imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The garden has excellent walks -and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, etc., and the -goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder -that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with such encomiums. -The Palace is indeed built more like a cabinet than anything composed of -stone and mortar; it has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent -marbles and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino; the -movables are princely and rich. This was the last piece of architecture -finished by Giacomo della Porta, who built it for Pietro Cardinal -Aldobrandini, in the time of Clement VIII.[29] - - [Footnote 29: Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in - January, 1592, by the name of Clement VIII., and died in March, - 1605.] - -We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the side of -a hill called Mondragone, finished by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample -and kingly edifice. It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre -for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-grounds, -groves and solitudes. The air is so fresh and sweet, as few parts of -Italy exceed it; nor is it inferior to any palace in the city itself for -statues, pictures, and furniture; but, it growing late, we could not take -such particular notice of these things as they deserved. - -[Sidenote: TIVOLI] - -6th May, 1645. We rested ourselves; and next day, in a coach, took our -last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli, or -the old Tiburtum. At about six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a -bridge built by Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient -sepulchres, among others that of Valerius Volusi; and near it past the -stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found a heap, or -turret, full of inscriptions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at -Tivoli, we went first to see the palace d'Este, erected on a plain, but -where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the -garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting -out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast -forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular -exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho -(looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of -the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four -sweet and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water, -and in a grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius, -Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, -the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, -all of exquisite marble, copper, and other suitable adornments. The -Cupids pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns on which -are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly paved with -_pietra-commessa_, shells, coral, etc. - -Toward Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious walk, full of -fountains, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in -rarely sculptured _mezzo relievo_. At the end of this, next the wall, is -the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing -that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermæ, temples, arches, -aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running -through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the -river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and -singing till an owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes. -Near this is the fountain of dragons, casting out large streams of water -with great noise. In another grotto, called Grotto di Natura, is an -hydraulic organ; and below this are divers stews and fish ponds, in one -of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a seahorse, in -another a Triton; and lastly, a garden of simples. There are besides in -the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteads richly inlaid, and -sundry other precious movables: the whole is said to have cost the best -part of a million. - -Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial miracles, and dined, -we went to see the so famous natural precipice and cascade of the river -Anio, rushing down from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what -with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of the water -against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it and forming a -natural Iris, and the prodigious depth of the gulf below, it is enough to -astonish one that looks on it. Upon the summit of this rock stands the -ruins and some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tyburtina, -or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of its pristine -beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder drying in the sun, and a -little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. - -[Sidenote: ROME] - -And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were showed, at some -distance, the city Præneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of -ruins; and so came late to our lodging. - -We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except -what should happen to come in our way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or -myself should go to take the air: only I may not omit that one afternoon, -diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank there to allure -curious strangers, taking off a ring from his finger, which seemed set -with a dull, dark stone a little swelling out, like what we call (though -untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, and -then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and large as a -small wax candle; then, blowing it out, repeated this several times. I -have much regretted that I did not purchase the receipt of him for making -that composition at what price soever; for though there is a process in -Jo. Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several trials they -none of them have succeeded. - -Among other observations I made in Rome are these: as to coins and -medals, ten _asses_ make the Roman _denarius_, five the _quinarius_, ten -_denarii_ an _aureus_; which accompt runs almost exactly with what is now -in use of _quatrini_, _baiocs_, _julios_, and _scudi_, each exceeding the -other in the proportion of ten. The _sestertius_ was a small silver coin, -marked H. S. or rather LL^s, valued two pounds and a half of silver, viz, -250 _denarii_, about twenty-five golden _ducati_. The stamp of the Roman -_denarius_ varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma -armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were called _bigi_; if -with four, _quadrigi_: if with a Victoria, so named. The mark of the -_denarius_ was distinguished > | < thus, or X; the _quinarius_ of half -value, had, on one side, the head of Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and -Pollux on horseback, inscribed _Roma_, etc. - -I observed that in the Greek church they made the sign of the cross from -the right hand to the left; contrary to the Latins and the schismatic -Greeks; gave the benediction with the first, second, and little finger -stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance of -the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two. - -[Illustration: _LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683_ - -_Photogravure after a painting by Bridges_] - -For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and Algardi were in the -greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a statuary; who made the Andrea in St. -Peter's, and is said to have died mad because it was placed in an ill -light. Among the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has such an address -of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so well as to make his -copies pass for originals; Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a -Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armor, plate, dead life, -tapestry, etc. The chief masters of music, after Marc Antonio, the best -treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch; the next Cardinal Bichi's -eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and Nicholai, bass. The Jews in Rome wore -red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted -one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on -which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color. -There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much -solicited for an order of Jesuitesses. - -At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his cloak and hat for -murder. They struck the malefactor with a club that first stunned him, -and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at -Halifax.[30] - - [Footnote 30: A guillotine.] - -It is reported that Rome has been once no less than fifty miles in -compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 3,000 churches and chapels, -monasteries, etc. It is divided into fourteen regions or wards; has seven -mountains, and as many campi or valleys; in these are fair parks, or -gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and pleasure, at some -distance from the streets, yet within the walls. - -The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till I went -from Rome, amounting to but 616 _ducati di banco_, though I purchased -many books, pictures, and curiosities. - -18th May, 1645. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being disappointed -of moneys long expected, I was forced to return by the same way I came, -desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I -diverted to take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit by -a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such collections as I -had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about to behold this once and -yet glorious city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, give -it my last farewell. - -Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourned now -about seven months, autumn, winter, and spring, I took coach, in company -with two courteous Italian gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a -house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called -Caprarola, situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a little town, -or rather a natural and stupendous rock; witness those vast caves serving -now for cellarage, where we were entertained with most generous wine of -several sorts, being just under the foundation. The palace was built by -the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex. Farnese, in -form of an octagon, the court in the middle being exactly round, so as -rather to resemble a fort, or castle; yet the chambers within are all of -them square, which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these rooms -is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite angles may be -heard the least whisper; they say any perfect square does it. Most of the -paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an -artificial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a great -number of lodging chambers are remarkable; but most of all the pictures -and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci; the Dead Christ is -incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues and noble fountains, -especially that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and lay -that night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome. - -19th May, 1645. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day, -at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera. - -[Sidenote: SIENNA] - -21st May, 1645. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass admiring the -great church built entirely both within and without with white and black -marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a -shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles, -representing the story of both Testaments, admirably wrought. Here lies -Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life -of Æneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in -antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though -Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's -disciplining cell, the door whereof is half cut out into chips by the -pilgrims and devotees, being of deal wood. - -Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the Duomo in which the -Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The -bending tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and is -a stupendous piece of art. In the gallery of curiosities is a fair mummy; -the tail of a sea-horse; coral growing on a man's skull; a chariot -automaton; two pieces of rock crystal, in one of which is a drop of -water, in the other three or four small worms; two embalmed children; -divers petrifactions, etc. The garden of simples is well furnished, and -has in it the deadly yew, or _taxus_, of the ancients; which Dr. -Belluccio, the superintendent, affirms that his workmen cannot endure to -clip for above the space of half an hour at a time, from the pain of the -head which surprises them. - -We went hence from Leghorn, by coach, where I took up ninety crowns for -the rest of my journey, with letters of credit for Venice, after I had -sufficiently complained of my defeat of correspondence at Rome. - -The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territory and state of -itself. The city is neat and well fortified, with noble and pleasant -walks of trees on the works, where the gentry and ladies used to take the -air. It is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the -country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The church of -St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more remarkable to -us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English king,[31] who died here on -his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb: - - _Hic rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus; - Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum. - Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. - Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum. - Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ - Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, - Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum._ - - [Footnote 31: What particular Richard King of England this was, it - is impossible to say; the tomb still exists, and has long been a - _crux_ to antiquaries and travelers.] - -Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble -both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the -fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above -all venerable for that sacred _volto_ which (as tradition goes) was -miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the -artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what face to set -on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civil to strangers, above all -places in Italy, and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap -living, which causes travelers to set up their rest here more than in -Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the ladies here are -very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserved; of these -we bought gloves and embroidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen -in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy days' -journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's but having Spain for a -protector (though the least bigoted of all Roman Catholics), and being -one of the fortified cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole -country abounds in excellent olives, etc. - -[Sidenote: PISTORIA] - -Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoria, where, besides one -church, there was little observable: only in the highway we crossed a -rivulet of salt water, though many miles from the sea. The country is -extremely pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for -the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal -distances, watered with clear and plentiful streams. - -Rising early the next morning we arrived at Peggio Imperiale, being a -palace of the Great Duke, not far from the city, having omitted it in my -passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it -were of tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At the -entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the Tiber and Arno, of -marble; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. The building is -sumptuous, and curiously furnished within with cabinets of -pietra-commessa in tables, pavements, etc., which is a magnificence, or -work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures are, Adam and Eve -by Albert Durer, very excellent; as is that piece of carving in wood by -the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian -line; the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress of this -palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had seen more -magnificently adorned, or furnished. - -[Sidenote: FLORENCE] - -We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same, and other -curiosities which we had neglected on our first being at Florence. We -went, therefore, to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the -Annunciata. The story is, that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a -sack of corn of the religious of that convent, and repayment being -demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph -sitting on a sack of corn, and reading to the Blessed Virgin; a piece -infinitely valued. There fell down in the cloister an old man's face -painted on the wall in _fresco_, greatly esteemed, and broke into crumbs; -the Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it, but none -of them would presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like -another Apelles; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, -picking up the fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially -together, that the injury it had received was hardly discernible. Andrea -del Sarto lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of -Bartolomeo, who having spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel -Gabriel, and being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin, he -began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the -morning to work on the face; but, when he came, no sooner had he drawn -away the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than -an admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted; at which miracle -all the city came in to worship. It is now kept in the Chapel of the -Salutation, a place so enriched by devotees, that none in Italy, save -Loretto, is said to exceed it. This picture is always covered with three -shutters, one of which is of massy silver; methinks it is very brown, the -forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. They report that -those who have the honor of seeing it never lose their sight--happy then -we! Belonging to this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of -it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up, some of gold, -and a cabinet of precious stones. - -Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least forty ranks of -porphyry and other statues, and twenty-eight whole figures, many rare -paintings and relievos, two square columns with trophies. In one of the -galleries, twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads; a Bacchus of M. -Angelo, and one of Bandinelli; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely -Cupid, of Parian marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, -and a man fighting with a centaur; three figures in little of Andrea; a -huge candlestick of amber; a table of Titian's painting, and another -representing God the Father sitting in the air on the Four Evangelists; -animals; divers smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure virgin gold, -as big as an egg. In the third chamber of rarities is the square -cabinet, valued at 80,000 crowns, showing on every front, a variety of -curious work; one of birds and flowers, of _pietra-commessa_; one, a -descent from the cross, of M. Angelo; on the third, our Blessed Savior -and the Apostles, of amber; and, on the fourth, a crucifix of the same. -Between the pictures, two naked Venuses, by Titian; Adam and Eve, by -Durer; and several pieces of Portdenone, and del Frate. There is a globe -of six feet diameter. In the Armory, were an entire elk, a crocodile, and -among the harness, several targets and antique horse-arms, as that of -Charles V.; two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a horse's -tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old Palace, which has a -very great hall for feasts and comedies, the roof rarely painted, and the -side walls with six very large pictures representing battles, the work of -Gio. Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate; a harness of emeralds; -the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six in length, of massy -gold; in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo II., the bass-relievo -is of precious stones, his breeches covered with diamonds; the moldings -of this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with -jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription, -in rubies: - - "_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto._" - -There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an -infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice, in copper, set up -on a column by Cosmo, in 1555, after the victory over Sienna, we were -told that the Duke, asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he -answered, that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for poor -men to come at it. - -Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collection of -paintings, especially a St. Catherine of P. Veronese; a Venus of marble, -veiled from the middle to the feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman -who made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good, -and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about -Bologna. - -Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities, statues, and -pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteemed as -the most antique in Italy, and many curious manuscripts; his best -paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John, -by Raphael, and an _Ecce Homo_, by Titian. - -The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about with impresses and -devices painted, all of them relating to corn sifted from the bran; the -seats are made like breadbaskets and other rustic instruments used about -wheat, and the cushions of satin, like sacks. - -We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that -piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of naked -figures, the work of Pontormo. On the left hand is the Martyrdom of St. -Laurence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is the tomb of -Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of copper, excellently designed, -standing on two lions' feet, which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. -Over against this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has -a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. Paulus Jovius has -the honor to be buried in the cloister. Behind the choir is the superb -chapel of Ferdinand I., consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a -little hollowed; in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of -paragon, for the statue of the prince now living, all of copper gilt; -above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the Duke, in -letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pavement, and roof, are full -of precious stones united with the moldings, which are also of gilded -copper, and so are the bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle, -with the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine, -agates, onyxes, etc. On the other side are six very large columns of rock -crystal, eight figures of precious stones of several colors, inlaid in -natural figures, not inferior to the best paintings, among which are many -pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond -description. The windows without side are of white marble. The library is -the architecture of Raphael; before the port is a square vestibule of -excellent art, of all the orders, without confusion; the ascent to it -from the library is excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS. -and bound in red, chained; in all about 3,500 volumes, as they told us. - -The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately preserved and -kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance, whereof one is for a ball of -300 pounds weight, and another for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds. - -When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were: for -_pietra-commessa_ (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of various colored -marble, and other more precious stones), Dominico Benetti and Mazotti; -the best statuary, Vincentio Brochi. This statuary makes those small -figures in plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till -one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so rare an art of -bronzing them; I bought four of him. The best painter, Pietro Beretino di -Cortona. - -This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or prostitute, allowed -to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his Holiness -the Pope, but not so much in value. - -[Sidenote: BOLOGNA] - -Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Giovanni and his fellow, -we took horses for Bologna; and, by the way, alighted at a villa of the -Grand Duke's, called Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions, -with a fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a large -meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom a huge rock, -with water running in a small channel, like a cascade; on the other side, -are the gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer -retirement. The inside of the palace may compare with any in Italy for -furniture of tapestry, beds, etc., and the gardens are delicious, and -full of fountains. In the grove sits Pan feeding his flock, the water -making a melodious sound through his pipe; and a Hercules, whose club -yields a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a naked -woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another grotto is Vulcan and -his family, the walls richly composed of corals, shells, copper, and -marble figures, with the hunting of several beasts, moving by the force -of water. Here, having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down a -large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams of water gush -out of pipes concealed underneath, that interchangeably fall into each -other's channels, making a lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on -horseback may ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This -canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most surprising -magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing in the heat of the -summer. At the end of this very long walk, stands a woman in white -marble, in posture of a laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen, -very naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention of M. -Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount Parnassus, where the Muses -played to us on hydraulic organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these -waters came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue of a -giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which stands this villa. -Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a huge colosse of Jupiter -throws out a stream over the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having -in his body a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and -door. - -We took horse and supped that night at Il Ponte, passing a dreadful ridge -of the Apennines, in many places capped with snow, which covers them the -whole summer. We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The next -day we passed through Scarperia, mounting the hills again, where the -passage is so straight and precipitous toward the right hand, that we -climbed them with much care and danger; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a -fort built among the rocks, and defending the confines of the Great -Duke's territories. - -The next day we passed by the Pietramala, a burning mountain. At the -summit of this prodigious mass of hills, we had an unpleasant way to -Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertained with excellent -wine. Hence to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins -about six miles from Bologna. - -Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate in one -of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. It is built -like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The -city is of no great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit -near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli, ascended by -447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly high, is very narrow, and the -more conspicuous from another tower called Garisendi, so artificially -built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall. -It is not now so high as the other; but they say the upper part was -formerly taken down, for fear it should really fall, and do mischief. - -Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called St. Petronius, showing -the intent of the founder, had he gone on. From this, our guide led us to -the schools, which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Dominic's, -where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The stalls, or seats, of -this goodly church have the history of the Bible inlaid with several -woods, very curiously done, the work of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a -friar of that order. Among other relics, they show the two books of -Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas, and -divers other learned persons. To the church joins the convent, in the -quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their -saint. - -Then we went to the palace of the Legate; a fair brick building, as are -most of the houses and buildings, full of excellent carving and moldings, -so as nothing in stone seems to be better finished or more ornamental; -witness those excellent columns to be seen in many of their churches, -convents, and public buildings; for the whole town is so cloistered, that -one may pass from house to house through the streets without being -exposed either to rain or sun. - -Before the stately hall of this palace stands the statue of Paul IV. and -divers others; also the monument of the coronation of Charles V. The -piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only -excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in -copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich vest of cloth of -tissue, and several other ornaments, according to the fashion of his -country, which much pleased me; he was a young handsome person, of the -most stately mien. - -I would fain have seen the library of St. Savior, famous for the number -of rare manuscripts; but could not, so we went to St. Francis, a glorious -pile, and exceedingly adorned within. - -After dinner I inquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom I -brought recommendations from Rome: this learned person invented, or found -out, the composition of the _lapis illuminabilis_, or phosphorus. He -showed me their property (for he had several), being to retain the light -of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a -particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blue color, -like the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The -rest of the afternoon was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a -steep hill on the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and -groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious -retirements I ever saw; art and nature contending which shall exceed; so -as till now I never envied the life of a friar. The whole town and -country to a vast extent are under command of their eyes, almost as far -as Venice itself. In this convent there are many excellent paintings of -Guido Reni; above all, the little cloister of eight faces, painted by -Caracci in _fresco_. The carvings in wood, in the sacristy, are -admirable, as is the inlaid work about the chapel, which even emulates -the best paintings; the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of -the Savior are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things of -Raphael which we could not see. - -In the church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia, by Raphael. As -to other paintings, there is in the church of St. Gregory an excellent -picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, -with several other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. Indeed, -this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido Domenico, and a -virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many excellent -pieces, and imitates Guido so well, that many skillful artists have been -deceived. - -At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by Reni, after the manner -of Caravaggio, but better; and here they showed us that famous piece of -Christ calling St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani has -the whole frieze of his hall painted in _fresco_ by the same hand. - -Many of the religious men nourish those lapdogs which the ladies are so -fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort of spaniels, -whose noses they break when puppies; which, in my opinion, deforms them. - -At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitory of St. -Michael, I found a paper pasted near the window, containing the -dimensions of most of the famous churches in Italy compared with their -towers here, and the length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took. - - -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- - | Braccia[32] | Piede | Canna - | | di Bolognia| | di Roma. - -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- - | | | - St. Pietro di Roma, longo| 284 | 473 | 84 - Cupalo del muro, alta | 210 | 350 | 60 - Torre d'Asinello, alto | 208-4/5 | 348 | 59 pr.^{mi} 6 - Dormitorio de St. Mich. a| | | - Bologn. longo | 254 | 423 | 72-1/2 - -------------------------+-----------+-----------------+-------------- - - [Footnote 32: A measure of half an ell.] - -From hence being brought to a subterranean territory of cellars, the -courteous friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines; and so we -departed to our inn. - -The city is famous also for sausages; and here is sold great quantities -of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, etc., which makes some of -their shops perfume the streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished -ourselves with wash balls, the best being made here, and being a -considerable commodity. This place has also been celebrated for lutes -made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which -were of extraordinary price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle -used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile, -especially in pasturage) are covered with housings of linen fringed at -the bottom, that dangle about them, preserving them from flies, which in -summer are very troublesome. - -[Sidenote: FERRARA] - -From this pleasant city, we proceeded toward Ferrara, carrying with us a -bulletino, or bill of health (customary in all these parts of Italy, -especially in the State of Venice) and so put ourselves into a boat that -was towed with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there -to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial -canals) at each of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the -Castle Bentivoglio, and, about night arrived at an ugly inn called _Mal -Albergo_, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we embarked -and passed that night through the Fens, where we were so pestered with -those flying glow-worms, called _Luccioli_, that one who had never heard -of them, would think the country full of sparks of fire. Beating some of -them down and applying them to a book, I could read in the dark by the -light they afforded. - -Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, where, -before we could gain entrance, our guns and arms were taken from us of -custom, the lock being taken off before, as we were advised. The city is -in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and -streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and church of St. -Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the -palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place -is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Oläo once -Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, -and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a -University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are not many fine -houses in the city, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace, -having an Angel for its sign. - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our -way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets -called Eridanus, where they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash -attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our -company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me -in this passage, and afterward did me many kindnesses at Venice. We -supped this night at a place called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient -city, Adria, which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles, -having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout vessel, and -through an artificial canal, very straight, we entered the Adige, which -carried us by break of day into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously -by Chioza (a town upon an island in this sea), and Palestina, we came -over against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where our English -merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about seven at night, after we had -stayed at least two hours for permission to land, our bill of health -being delivered, according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we -were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and -then we got to our lodging, which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's -at the Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the -town. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles, and -thirteen julios. - -June, 1645. The next morning, finding myself extremely weary and beaten -with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated -after the eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and -being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal-skin, put on the operator's -hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores, that it cost me one of -the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution -in keeping myself warm for some time after; for, coming out, I -immediately began to visit the famous places of the city; and travelers -who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and -this city well deserved our admiration, being the most wonderfully placed -of any in the world, built on so many hundred islands, in the very sea, -and at good distance from the continent. It has no fresh water except -what is reserved in cistern from rain, and such as is daily brought from -_terra firma_ in boats, yet there was no want of it, and all sorts of -excellent provisions were very cheap. - -It is said that when the Huns overran Italy, some mean fishermen and -others left the mainland, and fled for shelter to these despicable and -muddy islands, which, in process of time, by industry, are grown to the -greatness of one of the most considerable States, considered as a -Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient -Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory, by the -conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candia, Rhodes, -and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatic -Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great -pomp and ceremony, on Ascension-day; the desire of seeing this was one of -the reasons that hastened us from Rome. - -The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which are very -particular, after the eastern fashion), together with the Senate in their -gowns, embarked in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded -Bucentora, environed and followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and -boats, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, -music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the Gulf, the Duke, -at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud -acclamation is echoed from the great guns of the Arsenal, and at the -Liddo. We then returned. - -Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for land -ones, there are many old men in this city who never saw one, or rarely a -horse), we rode up and down the channels, which answer to our streets. -These vessels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of -steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and kept so -exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre; some are adorned with -carving, others lined with velvet (commonly black), with curtains and -tassels, and the seats like couches, to lie stretched on, while he who -rows, stands upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar -bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and turns with -incredible dexterity; thus passing from channel to channel, landing his -fare, or patron, at what house he pleases. The beaks of these vessels are -not unlike the ancient Roman rostrums. - -The first public building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of one -arch over the grand canal, so large as to admit a galley to row under it, -built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty shops, three -ample and stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the two -outmost nobly balustered with the same stone; a piece of architecture -much to be admired. It was evening, and the canal where the Noblesse go -to take the air, as in our Hyde Park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. -There are many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of -gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they affect to lean them -on one side, that one who is not accustomed to it, would be afraid of -over-setting. Here they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other -music, and serenading their mistresses; in another place, racing, and -other pastimes on the water, it being now exceeding hot. - -Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours, frequented by -merchants, but nothing so magnificent; from thence, my guide led me to -the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of the -merchants, especially Germans, have their lodging and diet, as in a -college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da -Castelfranco, and Titian himself. - -Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most delicious streets in -the world for the sweetness of it, and is all the way on both sides -tapestried as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other silks, -which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the first floor, -and with that variety that for near half the year spent chiefly in this -city, I hardly remember to have seen the same piece twice exposed; to -this add the perfumes, apothecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of -nightingales which they keep, that entertain you with their melody from -shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes, you would imagine yourself in -the country, when indeed you are in the middle of the sea. It is almost -as silent as the middle of a field, there being neither rattling of -coaches nor trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and -exceedingly clean, brought us through an arch into the famous piazza of -St. Mark. - -Over this porch stands that admirable clock, celebrated, next to that of -Strasburg, for its many movements; among which, about twelve and six, -which are their hours of Ave Maria, when all the town are on their knees, -come forth the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of -Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter into the clock -by another door. At the top of this turret, another automaton strikes the -quarters. An honest merchant told me that one day walking in the piazza, -he saw the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so forcibly, -as he was stooping his head near the bell, to mend something amiss at the -instant of striking, that being stunned, he reeled over the battlements, -and broke his neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on -pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble, even to the -shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in Europe, being not only -marble, but the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried -in St. Jacomo, at the end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble -range of buildings, are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent -statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is yet much more -Roman-like than the other which regards the sea, and where the church is -placed. The other range is plainly Gothic; and so we entered into St. -Mark's Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely cast -and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted red, on which, upon -great festivals, they hang flags and streamers. The church is also -Gothic; yet for the preciousness of the materials, being of several rich -marbles, abundance of porphyry, serpentine, etc., far exceeding any in -Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid history of -our blessed Savior, composed all of Mosaic over the _facciata_, below -which and over the four chief gates are cast four horses in copper as big -as the life, the same that formerly were transported from Rome by -Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.[33] They -are supported by eight porphyry columns, of very great size and value. -Being come into the church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but -what is precious. The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, -chalcedons, jaspers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also -for the work; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to the -imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand -varieties. The roof is of most excellent Mosaic; but what most persons -admire is the new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of -the church. In the midst of this rich _volto_ rise five cupolas, the -middle very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, eight of -which are of precious marbles: under these cupolas is the high altar, on -which is a reliquary of several sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, -after the Greek manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The -altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculptured the -story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble, -that support it. Behind these, are four other columns of transparent and -true Oriental alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's -Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and notable monuments of -illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals, etc., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and -others: there is likewise a vast baptistry, of copper. Among other -venerable relics is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood -preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is an image of -Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow -striking it they say, there gushed out a torrent of blood. In one of the -corners lies the body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from -the island of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of St. -Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by the Abbot Joachim -(many years before any of them were born). Going out of the church, they -showed us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor -Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, "_super -basiliscum_," etc. The doors of the church are of massy copper. There are -near 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyry and serpentine, -and brought chiefly from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in -their power. At the corner of the church, are inserted into the main wall -four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry; which they say are the -images of four brothers who poisoned one another, by which means were -escheated to the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to -the church. At the other entrance that looks toward the sea, stands in a -small chapel that statue of our Lady, made (as they affirm) of the same -stone, or rock, out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring -Israelites at Horeb, or Meriba. - - [Footnote 33: They were taken away by Bonaparte to Paris; but in - 1815, were sent back to Venice.] - -After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much too dark and -dismal, and of heavy work; the fabric,--as is much of Venice, both for -buildings and other fashions and circumstances,--after the Greeks, their -next neighbors. - -The next day, by favor of the French ambassador, I had admittance with -him to view the Reliquary, called here Tesoro di San Marco, which very -few, even of travelers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full -of presses. There are twelve breastplates or pieces of pure golden armor, -studded with precious stones, and as many crowns dedicated to St. Mark, -by so many noble Venetians, who had recovered their wives taken at sea by -the Saracens; many curious vases of agates; the cap, or coronet, of the -Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it, esteemed worth -200,000 crowns; two unicorns' horns; numerous vases and dishes of agate, -set thick with precious stones and vast pearls; divers heads of Saints -enchased in gold; a small ampulla, or glass, with our Savior's blood; a -great morsel of the real cross; one of the nails; a thorn; a fragment of -the column to which our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard or -ensign, of Constantine; a piece of St. Luke's arm; a rib of St. Stephen; -a finger of Mary Magdalen; numerous other things, which I could not -remember. But a priest, first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with -the stole about his neck, showed us the gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar -patron) written by his own hand, and whose body they show buried in the -church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago. - -The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo Veronese, -especially the Magdalen. - -A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the Senate -House, and Ducal Palace. The first court near this church is almost -wholly built of several colored sorts of marble, like checkerwork on the -outside; this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but -observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are -alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where merchants meet morning and -evening, as also the grave senators and gentlemen, to confer of state -affairs, in their gowns and caps, like so many philosophers; it is a very -noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood two square -columns of white marble, carved, which they said had been erected to hang -one of their Dukes on, who designed to make himself Sovereign. Going -through a stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues of -great value, among which is the so celebrated Eve, esteemed worth its -weight in gold; it is just opposite to the stairs where are two -Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor -built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice; and by a -well-contrived staircase were landed in the Senate hall, which appears to -be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europe, being seventy-six -paces long, and thirty-two in breadth. At the upper end, are the -Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants: in the body of the -hall, are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1,500 Senators; for -they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the -paintings of the Final Judgment, by Tintoret, esteemed among the best -pieces in Europe. On the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic, -painted by several excellent masters, especially Bassano; next them, are -the effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then, we turned -into a great Court painted with the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent -piece; afterward, into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the -most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favor of an -Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armory of the Palace, -and so to the same court we first entered, nobly built of polished white -marble, part of which is the Duke's Court, _pro tempore_; there are two -wells adorned with excellent work in copper. This led us to the seaside, -where stand those columns of ophite stone in the entire piece, of a great -height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus: these -pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius, the -architect; between them public executions are performed. - -Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island of St. George, -the galleys, gondolas, and other vessels passing to and fro, we walked -under the cloister on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most -magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the -_Zecca_, or mint; at the entrance, stand two prodigious giants, or -Hercules, of white marble; we saw them melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, -and copper. We then went up into the Procuratory, and a library of -excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After this, we -climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might have done on horseback, -as it is said one of the French Kings did; there being no stairs, or -steps, but returns that take up an entire square on the arches forty -feet, broad enough for a coach. This steeple stands by itself, without -any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the corner of the -great piazza, 230 feet in height, the foundation exceeding deep; on the -top, is an angel, that turns with the wind; and from hence is a prospect -down the Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the -surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of the sea, -in the shape of a lute, the numberless islands tacked together by no -fewer than 450 bridges. At the foot of this tower, is a public tribunal -of excellent work, in white marble polished, adorned with several brass -statues and figures of stone and mezzo-relievo, the performance of some -rare artist. - -It was now Ascension-week, and the great mart, or fair, of the whole year -was kept, everybody at liberty and jolly; the noblemen stalking with -their ladies on _choppines_. These are high-heeled shoes, particularly -affected by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep them at -home, it being very difficult to walk with them; whence, one being asked -how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they were "_mezzo carne, mezzo -legno_," half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth -is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other -habits also totally different from all nations. They wear very long, -crisp hair, of several streaks and colors, which they make so by a wash, -disheveling it on the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole -to put out their heads by; they dry them in the sun, as one may see them -at their windows. In their tire, they set silk flowers and sparkling -stones, their petticoats coming from their very arm-pits, so that they -are near three quarters and a half apron; their sleeves are made -exceedingly wide, under which their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly -tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked arms, through false -sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of point -richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of their body, which -they usually cover with a kind of yellow veil of lawn, very transparent. -Thus attired, they set their hands on the heads of two matron-like -servants, or old women, to support them, who are mumbling their beads. It -is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their gondolas, -by reason of their _choppines_; and what dwarfs they appear, when taken -down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, -stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or -the citizens, may not wear _choppines_, but cover their bodies and faces -with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which -they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being -otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this -habit; but go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils hang -broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice. The married women go -in black veils. The nobility wear the same color, but a fine cloth lined -with taffeta, in summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the -winter, which all put on at a certain day, girt with a girdle embossed -with silver, the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts -wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, made like a sack, cast over their -left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is -not so comely; they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond -button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearls for color -and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear, most of the noble -families being very rich in jewels, especially pearls, which are always -left to the son, or brother who is destined to marry; which the eldest -seldom do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, etc. -of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the strange -variety of the several nations seen every day in the streets and piazzas; -Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with -their targets and bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negotiating -in this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with strangers. - -This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before we went to -the Opera, where comedies and other plays are represented in recitative -music, by the most excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with -variety of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of perspective, -and machines for flying in the air, and other wonderful notions; taken -together, it is one of the most magnificent and expensive diversions the -wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes -changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, and -reputed the best treble of women; but there was an eunuch who, in my -opinion, surpassed her; also a Genoese that sung an incomparable bass. -This held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, when we went -to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their ladies at -basset, a game at cards which is much used; but they play not in public, -and all that have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking -one word, and so they come in, play, lose or gain, and go away as they -please. This time of license is only in carnival and this Ascension-week; -neither are their theatres open for that other magnificence, or for -ordinary comedians, save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and -wise people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws. - -There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had resolved -to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and other parts of Syria, Egypt -and Turkey; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to -cool our drink, bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a -little cabinet of drugs in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof Captain -Powell was master), happened to be pressed for the service of the State, -to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacked by the Turks; which -altogether frustrated my design, to my great mortification. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -On the ... of June, we went to Padua, to the fair of their St. Anthony, -in company of divers passengers. The first _terra firma_ we landed at was -Fusina, being only an inn where we changed our barge, and were then drawn -up by horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even as a -line for twenty miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorned with -country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with oranges, -figs, and other fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas -we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observable in this -passage was buying their water of those who farm the sluices; for this -artificial river is in some places so shallow, that reserves of water are -kept with sluices, which they open and shut with a most ingenious -invention, or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up the -water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled by the stop, -or abated to the level of the other; for which every boat pays a certain -duty. Thus, we stayed near half an hour and more, at three several -places, so as it was evening before we got to Padua. This is a very -ancient city, if the tradition of Antenor's, being the founder, be not a -fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately gate: - - "_Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum - fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit, anno ante - Christum natum M. Cxviii; Senatus autem Venetus his belli - propugnaculis ornavit._" - -The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is generally -built like Bologna, on arches and on brick, so that one may walk all -around it, dry, and in the shade; which is very convenient in these hot -countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I -was this season, especially the next day, which was that of the fair, -filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and solemn procession -to their famous cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo, I met with this -subscription: - - "_Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem - Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga, - Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, - Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus._" - -Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now come to St. Antony's -(the street most of the way straight, well built, and outside excellently -painted in _fresco_), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is -erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one -Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _à la Greca_, consists of -five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. -Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles -ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three -famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieronymus -Compagno. A little higher is the choir, walled parapet-fashion, with -sundry colored stone, half relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar -within is of the same metal, which, with the candlestick and bases, is, -in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of the choir -is rarely inlaid and carved. Here are the sepulchres of many famous -persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, etc.; and among the rest, one for an -exploit at sea, has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession -bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which was a very -fine sight. - -Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see the convent of -St. Justina, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The church -is an excellent piece of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, -with a stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the ashes of -that saint. It is of _pietra-commessa_, consisting of flowers very -naturally done. The choir is inlaid with several sorts of wood -representing the holy history, finished with exceeding industry. At the -far end, is that rare painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo -Veronese; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians -had been decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister -well painted) is a dry well, covered with a brass-work grate, wherein are -the bones of divers martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an -old alabaster coffin; three of the Holy Innocents; and the bodies of St. -Maximus and Prosdocimus.[34] The dormitory above is exceedingly -commodious and stately; but what most pleased me, was the old cloister so -well painted with the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient -inscriptions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation of -the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next -day to Venice. - - [Footnote 34: St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua.] - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -The arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnished in the world. We -entered by a strong port, always guarded, and, ascending a spacious -gallery, saw arms of back, breast, and head, for many thousands; in -another were saddles; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. Another -hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing a graff, are the smiths' -forges, where they are continually employed on anchors and iron work. -Near it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's -horns which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever being -empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters were building their -magazines of oars, masts, etc., for an hundred galleys and ships, which -have all their apparel and furniture near them. Then the foundry, where -they cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has -thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, weighing 16,573 pounds, cast -while Henry the Third dined, and put into a galley built, rigged, and -fitted for launching within that time. They have also arms for twelve -galeasses, which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty -wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain twenty-eight banks of oars, -each seven men, and to carry 1,300 men, with three masts. In another, a -magazine for fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here stands -the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contrived that the slaves -are not seen, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to sit, when he -goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200 -yards long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. Opposite these, -are the saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells, or houses, to -protect their galleys from the weather. Over the gate, as we go out, is a -room full of great and small guns, some of which discharge six times at -once. Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grapples, -grenadoes, etc., and over that arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves -arms for 400, taken from some that were in a plot against the state; -together with weapons of offense and defense for sixty-two ships; -thirty-two pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and one -prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be reckoned up what this -large place contains of this sort. There were now twenty-three galleys, -and four galley-grossi, of 100 oars to a side. The whole arsenal is -walled about, and may be in compass about three miles, with twelve towers -for the watch, besides that the sea environs it. The workmen, who are -ordinarily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive -their pay through a small hole in the gate where the governor lives. - -The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had murdered his master, for -which he had his head chopped off by an ax that slid down a frame of -timber, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at the -sea-brink; the executioner striking on the ax with a beetle; and so the -head fell off the block. - -Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is -excellent work. Indeed, the world cannot show a city of more stately -buildings, considering the extent of it, all of square stone, and as -chargeable in their foundations as superstructure, being all built on -piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the church of St. Johanne -and Paulo, before which is, in copper, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone, -on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea -Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine church, and has in it many -rare altarpieces of the best masters, especially that on the left hand, -of the Two Friars slain, which is of Titian. - -The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to the ceremony -of the schismatic Greeks, who are permitted to have their church, though -they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many -painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. Their rites -differ not much from the Latins, save that of communicating in both -species, and distribution of the holy bread. We afterward fell into a -dispute with a Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. The -church is a noble fabric. - -The church of St. Zachary is a Greek building, by Leo IV., Emperor, and -has in it the bones of that prophet, with divers other saints. Near this, -we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretin. - -Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa Maria, newly -incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyry, ophite, -and Spartan stone. Near the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, -that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul -I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the -Evangelist, where among other heroes, lies Andrea Baldarius, the inventor -of oars applied to great vessels for fighting. - -We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the school, or hall, of -that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoretto, especially the -Crucifix in the _sacristia_. We saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and -Carmelites' monastery. - -Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to the island of St. -George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well-built -church of Andrea Palladio, the great architect. The pavement, cupola, -choir, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a fine -garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though this is an island a -little distant from the city; it has also an olive orchard, all environed -by the sea. The new cloister now building has a noble staircase paved -with white and black marble. - -From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and St. Laurence, fair churches in -several islands; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani, in -St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid -work, etc. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on the following day, we -visited the market, which is plentifully furnished, and exceedingly -cheap. Here we saw the great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of -the most magnificent in Europe; its ascent is by steps a good height, of -a reddish marble polished, much used in these parts, and happily found -not far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and forty in breadth, all -covered with lead, without any support of columns. At the further end -stands the bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In this -town is the house wherein he was born, full of inscriptions, and pretty -fair. - -Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on the ceiling the -celestial zodiac, and other astronomical figures; without side, there is -a corridor, in manner of a balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry -of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert -Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is -the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all, -the Monte Pietà, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. -This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in -Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer -sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines -for deposit of goods, till redeemed. - -Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient University, -especially for the study of physic and anatomy. They are fairly built in -quadrangle, with cloisters beneath, and above with columns. Over the -great gate are the arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. -Mark. - - _Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies - Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium à - te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit._ - - CIC.IX. - -About the court walls, are carved in stone and painted the blazons of the -Consuls of all the nations, that from time to time have had that charge -and honor in the University, which at my being there was my worthy friend -Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree. - -The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are above, but none -of them comparable, or so much frequented, as the theater for anatomy, -which is excellently contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I -was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoon (30th July) received -my _matricula_, being resolved to spend some months here at study, -especially physic and anatomy, of both which there were now the most -famous professors in Europe. My _matricula_ contained a clause, that I, -my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all tolls and -reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy, or sell, without any -toll, etc. - -The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely furnished with -plants, and gave order to the gardener to make me a collection of them -for an _hortus hyemalis_, by permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslingius, -then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy. - -This morning, the Earl of Arundel,[35] now in this city, a famous -collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see -the garden of Mantua, where, as one enters, stands a huge _colosse_ of -Hercules. From hence to a place where was a room covered with a noble -cupola, built purposely for music; the fillings up, or cove, between the -walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better sounding; it was -also well painted. After dinner, we walked to the Palace of Foscari all' -Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, though -serving now for a court only before the house. There were now kept in it -two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, a stag, and sundry fowls, as in -a vivary. - - [Footnote 35: The celebrated Thomas, Earl of Arundel, part of whose - collection was eventually procured for the University of Oxford by - Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name _Marmora Arundeliana_.] - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over to Murano, famous -for the best glasses in the world, where having viewed their furnaces, -and seen their work, I made a collection of divers curiosities and -glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. It is the white flints -they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly small, and -mix with ashes made of a seaweed brought out of Syria, and a white sand, -that causes this manufacture to excel. The town is a Podestaria by -itself, at some miles distant on the sea from Venice, and like it, built -on several small islands. In this place, are excellent oysters, small and -well tasted like our Colchester, and they were the first, as I remember, -that I ever could eat; for I had naturally an aversion to them. - -At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full of Venetian ladies, -who come thus far in fine weather to take the air, with music and other -refreshments. Besides that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and -has divers noblemen's palaces in it, and handsome gardens. - -In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher and St. Michael, -the last of which has a church enriched and incrusted with marbles and -other architectonic ornaments, which the monks very courteously showed -us. It was built and founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona, a famous -courtesan, who purchased a great estate, and by this foundation hoped to -commute for her sins. We then rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose -church, with the monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us -awhile; and then got home. - -The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was to embark toward -Turkey, invited me on board, lying about ten miles from Venice, where we -had a dinner of English powdered beef and other good meat, with store of -wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner, the Captain -presented me with a stone he had lately brought from Grand Cairo, which -he took from the mummy-pits, full of hieroglyphics; I drew it on paper -with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr. Henshaw to -communicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting forth his great work -"Obeliscus Pamphilius," where it is described, but without mentioning my -name. The stone was afterward brought for me into England, and landed at -Wapping, where, before I could hear of it, it was broken into several -fragments, and utterly defaced, to my no small disappointment. - -The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and foot of a mummy, the -nails whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold, and the whole -body was perfect, when he brought it out of Egypt; but the avarice of the -ship's crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them. He -presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some loaves of the bread -which the Coptics use in the Holy Sacrament, with other curiosities. - -8th August, 1645. I had news from Padua of my election to be _Syndicus -Artistarum_, which caused me, after two days idling in a country villa -with the Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge -myself of that honor, because it was not only chargeable, but would have -hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place, -which did not well please my countrymen, who had labored not a little to -do me the greatest honor a stranger is capable of in that University. -Being freed from this impediment, and having taken leave of Dr. Janicius, -a Polonian, who was going as physician in the Venetian galleys to Candia, -I went again to Venice, and made a collection of several books and some -toys. Three days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied hard till -the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some other English gentlemen -whom I had left at Rome, and who made me go back to Venice, where I spent -some time in showing them what I had seen there. - -26th September, 1645. My dear friend, and till now my constant -fellow-traveler, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to return to England upon -his particular concern, and who had served his Majesty in the wars, I -accompanied him part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice. - -29th September, 1645. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest -son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy person) to see the -collection of a noble Venetian, Signor Rugini. He has a stately palace, -richly furnished with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in -an ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both Latin and -Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair pearls in two of them; -but, above all, he abounded in things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which -the yoke rattled, a pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a whole -hedgehog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and very -perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levity, sponges, -and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with innumerable more. In another -cabinet, supported by twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about -with crystal, he showed us several noble intáglios of agate, especially a -head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare cornelians, -onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of which was a drop of water not -congealed, but moving up and down, when shaken; above all, a diamond -which had a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber, wherein -were several insects, in particular one cut like a heart that contained -in it a salamander without the least defect, and many pieces of mosaic. -The fabric of this cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, -turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which was an -antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very rarely cut, and -comparable to the greatest curiosity I had ever seen of that kind for the -accurateness of the work. The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with -agates, crystals, cornelians, lazuli, etc., esteemed worth 16,000 crowns, -but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are of forged iron gilded, -since it is impossible to keep the wooden ones from the cimices. - -[Sidenote: PADUA] - -From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was so infested with -soldiers, that many houses were broken open in the night, some murders -committed, and the nuns next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced -to be on our guard with pistols and other firearms to defend our doors; -and indeed the students themselves take a barbarous liberty in the -evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all that pass by the -house where any of their companions in folly are with them. This custom -they call _chi vali_, so as the streets are very dangerous, when the -evenings grow dark; nor is it easy to reform this intolerable usage, -where there are so many strangers of several nations. - -Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as the manner here is, I -was so afflicted with an angina and sore throat, that it had almost cost -me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor -here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being called, -made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four places; which began -to give me breath, and consequently life; for I was in the utmost danger; -but, God being merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again, -when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo Pinto; where I -bought for winter provision 3,000 weight of excellent grapes, and pressed -my own wine, which proved incomparable liquor. - -This was on 10th of October. Soon after came to visit me from Venice Mr. -Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to -the Lord Chief Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another part -of the city to lodge near St. Catherine's over against the monastery of -nuns, where we hired the whole house, and lived very nobly. Here I -learned to play on the theorb, taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who -had a daughter married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung to nine -several instruments, with that skill and address as few masters in Italy -exceeded her; she likewise composed divers excellent pieces: I had never -seen any play on the Naples viol before. She presented me afterward with -two recitativos of hers, both words and music. - -31st October, 1645. Being my birthday, the nuns of St. Catherine's sent -me flowers of silkwork. We were very studious all this winter till -Christmas, when on Twelfth-day, we invited all the English and Scots in -town to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. - -[Sidenote: VENICE] - -1645-46. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but the -extreme snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to see the -solemnity, so as I stirred not from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the -world repair to Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival; the -women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising themselves in -antique dresses, with extravagant music and a thousand gambols, -traversing the streets from house to house, all places being then -accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet -water, but sometimes not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom of -hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is very dangerous, the -passages being generally narrow. The youth of the several wards and -parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes, so that it is -impossible to recount the universal madness of this place during this -time of license. The great banks are set up for those who will play at -bassett; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are open; witty -pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have their stages at every -corner. The diversions which chiefly took me up was three noble operas, -where were excellent voices and music, the most celebrated of which was -the famous Anna Rencia, whom we invited to a fish dinner after four days -in Lent, when they had given over at the theater. Accompanied with an -eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us with rare music, -both of them singing to a harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of -Venice came for her, to show her the galleys, now ready to sail for -Candia. This entertainment produced a second, given us by the English -consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house, where he had the -Genoese, the most celebrated bass in Italy, who was one of the late opera -band. This diversion held us so late at night, that, conveying a -gentlewoman who had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of -landing, we were shot at by two carbines from another gondola, in which -were a noble Venetian and his courtesan unwilling to be disturbed, which -made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, -till we were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing it -farther. - -Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and went to Padua, to -be present at the famous anatomy lecture, celebrated here with -extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole month. During this time, -I saw a woman, a child, and a man dissected with all the manual -operations of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one was performed by -Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athelsteninus Leonoenas, of whom I -purchased those rare tables of veins and nerves, and caused him to -prepare a third of the lungs, liver, and nervi _sexti par_: with the -gastric veins, which I sent into England, and afterward presented to the -Royal Society, being the first of that kind that had been seen there, -and, for aught I know, in the world, though afterward there were others. -When the anatomy lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went -to see cures done in the hospitals; and certainly as there are the -greatest helps and the most skillful physicians, so there are the most -miserable and deplorable objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I -should think, so powerful an argument against the vice reigning in this -licentious country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor creatures -undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended, and with extraordinary -charity. - -20th March, 1646. I returned to Venice, where I took leave of my friends. - -22d March, 1646. I was invited to excellent English potted venison, at -Mr. Hobbson's, a worthy merchant. - -23d March, 1646. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince of -Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going as -commander to Candia; and, in the afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my -merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me -his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious, and of good -value. - -The next day, I was conducted to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell -together in as a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage. The -bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chair, and covered with a -white veil; then two old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding -a glass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the ceremony, -pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the breaking whereof was -to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must expect disasters -and crosses amid all enjoyments. This done we had a fine banquet, and -were brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed up with -flowers, and the counterpane strewn in works. At this ceremony, we saw -divers very beautiful Portuguese Jewesses, with whom we had some -conversation. - -I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his confessor, and -obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions; without which I -was not to travel, in this pompous form: - - "_Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Señor Le - Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, - Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, - Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su - Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y - Alemania, y a esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, etc. Haviendo - de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn - Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para los Estates - de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmando de mi mano, y - sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los - menestros de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son, - supplico les dare passar libramente sin permitir que se le haya - vexation alguna antes mandar le las favor para continuar su viage. - Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo del an'o 1646._ - - _Mar. de la Fuentes, etc._" - -Having packed up my purchases of books, pictures, casts, treacle, etc. -(the making an extraordinary ceremony whereof I had been curious to -observe, for it is extremely pompous and worth seeing), I departed from -Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated poet), now newly -gotten out of England, after the Parliament had extremely worried him for -attempting to put in execution the commission of Array, and for which the -rest of his colleagues were hanged by the rebels. - -The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua, and receiving some -directions from Dr. Salvatico as to the care of my health, I prepared for -my journey toward Milan. - -It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Earl of -Arundel's. I took my leave of him in his bed, where I left that great and -excellent man in tears on some private discourse of crosses that had -befallen his illustrious family, particularly the undutifulness of his -grandson Philip turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal of Norfolk), and -the misery of his country now embroiled in civil war. He caused his -gentleman to give me directions, all written with his own hand, what -curiosities I should inquire after in my journey; and, so enjoining me to -write sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for me below, Mr. Henry -Howard (afterward Duke of Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm -Digby, and other gentlemen, who conducted me to the coach. - -The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes, so as to -emulate the best diamonds, rubies, etc., were Marco Terrasso and Gilbert. - - An account of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my - coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua: - - 11th Aug., 1645 200 - 7th Sept. 135 - 1st Oct. 100 - 15th Jan., 1646 100 - 23d April 300 - --- - 835 Ducati di Banco. - -In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray (son of Sir -Christopher, whose father had been in arms against his Majesty, and -therefore by no means welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned -man, we got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, -celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we -found growing about them. The ways were something deep, the whole country -flat and even as a bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are -orderly planted with fruit trees, which the vines run and embrace, for -many miles, with delicious streams creeping along the ranges. - -Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining to the -Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which the famous -Palladio, born here, has exceedingly contributed, having been the -architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of -excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order; those in the -three upper corridors are Doric; under them, are shops in a spacious -piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler -design, _à la moderne_. The next morning, we visited the theater, as -being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Palladio, -in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and capable of containing 5,000 -spectators. The scene, which is all of stone, represents an imperial -city, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is -inscribed: "_Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc à -fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584_." The scene declines eleven -feet, the _soffito_ painted with clouds. To this there joins a spacious -hall for solemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the -piazza is also the _podesta_, or governor's house, the _facciata_ being -of the Corinthian order, very noble. The piazza itself is so large as to -be capable of jousts and tournaments, the nobility of this city being -exceedingly addicted to this knight-errantry, and other martial -diversions. In this place are two pillars in imitation of those at St. -Mark's at Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the other the statue -of St. John the Baptist. - -In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces than any of its -dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished (but -of stately design) by reason of the domestic dissensions between them and -those of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combining, they -might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For this reason, also, -are permitted those disorders and insolences committed at Padua among the -youth of these two territories. It is no dishonor in this country to be -some generations in finishing their palaces, that without exhausting -themselves by a vast expense at once, they may at last erect a sumptuous -pile. Count Oleine's Palace is near perfected in this manner. Count -Ulmarini is more famous for his gardens, being without the walls, -especially his _cedrario_, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my -paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all the way by their -intermixing branches for more than 200 of my single paces, and which -being full of fruit and blossoms, was a most delicious sight. In the -middle of this garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender -pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without and within, -that nothing was to be perceived but green; between the arches there -dangled festoons of the same. Here is likewise a most inextricable -labyrinth. - -I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and ingenious -apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. I -would fain have visited a palace, called the Rotunda, which was a mile -out of town, belonging to Count Martio Capra; but one of our companions -hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save drinking and -folly, caused us to take coach sooner than we should have done. - -A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio, set out in imitation -of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles exercised their horses, and the -ladies make the Corso; it is entered by a stately triumphal arch, the -invention of Palladio. - -[Sidenote: VERONA] - -Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined at Ostaria Nova, and -came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto, just over the -monument of the Scalageri,[36] formerly princes of Verona, adorned with -many devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name. - - [Footnote 36: Or della Scala.] - -Early next morning, we went about the city, which is built on the gentle -declivity, and bottom of a hill, environed in part with some considerable -mountains and downs of fine grass, like some places in the south of -England, and, on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius -overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst by the river -Adige, over which are divers stately bridges, and on its banks are many -goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in _chiaro-oscuro_ on the -outside, as are divers in this dry climate of Italy. - -The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder, too, was the -amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remains now extant. The -inhabitants call it the ARENA: it has two porticos, one within the other, -and is thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-two ranks -of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the top. The vastness of the -marble stones is stupendous. "_L. V. Flaminius, Consul. anno. urb. con. -liii._" This I esteem to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it -is so vast and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many other public -buildings for above 1,400 years. - -There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius; temples, -aqueducts, etc., showing still considerable remains in several places of -the town, and how magnificent it has formerly been. It has three strong -castles and a large and noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely -built, especially the Senate house, where we saw those celebrated statues -of Cornelius Nepos, Æmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having -honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius Cæsar Scaliger, -that prodigy of learning. - -In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa where are walks -cut out of the main rock, from whence we had a pleasant prospect of -Mantua and Parma, though at great distance. At the entrance of this -garden, grows the goodliest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a -pyramid; it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, entirely -covered, and thick to the base. - -Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, among other rarities, a St. Dorothea, -of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especially of Parmensis, -belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account of his absence. - -Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honored it with; for in my -opinion, the situation is the most delightful I ever saw, it is so -sweetly mixed with rising ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with -trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn, -for the vines reach from tree to tree; here, of all places I have seen in -Italy, would I fix a residence. Well has that learned man given it the -name of the very eye of the world: - - "_Oscelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli, - Flos Urbium, flos cornicuumq' amoenum, - Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona._" - -The next morning we traveled over the downs where Marius fought and -fancied ourselves about Winchester, and the country toward Dorsetshire. -We dined at an inn called Cavalli Caschieri, near Peschiera, a very -strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and near the Lago di Garda, which -disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles in length, highly -spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as the most pleasant spot in Italy, -for which reason I observed it with the more diligence, alighting out of -the coach, and going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a -gentleman's country-house, from whence indeed it presents a most -surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings about it produce -oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other tempting fruits, and the waters -abound in excellent fish, especially trouts. In the middle of this lake -stands Sermonea, on an island; here Captain Wray bought a pretty nag of -the master of our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, -our hostess, was so unwilling to part with, that she did nothing but kiss -and weep and hang about the horse's neck, till the captain rode away. - -[Sidenote: BRESCIA] - -We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traversed, -according to our custom, in search of antiquities and new sights. Here, I -purchased of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine -pistoles, this city being famous for these firearms, and that workman, -Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city consists most in artists, -every shop abounding in guns, swords, armorers, etc. Most of the workmen -come out of Germany. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle is -built on a hill. The streets abound in fair fountains. The Torre della -Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and the Senate house is inferior to -few. The piazza is but indifferent; some of the houses arched as at -Padua. The Cathedral was under repair. We would from hence have visited -Parma, Piacenza, Mantua, etc.; but the banditti and other dangerous -parties being abroad, committing many enormities, we were contented with -a Pisgah sight of them. - -We dined next day, at Ursa Vecchia, and, after dinner, passed by an -exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called Ursa Nova, on their -frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and so by Sonano, where we enter the -Spanish dominions, and that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to -Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, and -so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with an ample piazza. - -[Sidenote: MILAN] - -Early next day, after four miles' riding, we entered into the State of -Milan, and passed by Lodi, a great city famous for cheese, little short -of the best Parmeggiano. We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming -to Milan, where we met half a dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet did us -no harm. Then, passing as through a continual garden, we went on with -exceeding pleasure; for it is the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as -even and straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with -fruit about the inclosures, vines to every tree at equal distances, and -watered with frequent streams. There was likewise much corn, and olives -in abundance. At approach of the city, some of our company, in dread of -the Inquisition (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing -away some Protestant books and papers. We arrived about three in the -afternoon, when the officers searched us thoroughly for prohibited goods; -but, finding we were only gentlemen travelers, dismissed us for a small -reward, and we went quietly to our inn, the THREE KINGS, where, for that -day, we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next morning, we -delivered our letters of recommendation to the learned and courteous -Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the -remarkable places of the town, the first of which was the famous -Cathedral. We entered by a portico, so little inferior to that of Rome -that, when it is finished, it will be hard to say which is the fairest; -the materials are all of white and black marble, with columns of great -height, of Egyptian granite. The outside of the church is so full of -sculpture, that you may number 4,000 statues, all of white marble, among -which that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The church is -very spacious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. -About the choir, the sacred Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white -marble, nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the church -are the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in the vault beneath is his -body before the high altar, grated, and inclosed, in one of the largest -crystals in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is -all of marble within and without, and even covered with great planks of -marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are most beautifully painted. -Here are two very fair and excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the -midst of a fair piazza, and in the center of the city. - -Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quadrangle, -the architecture of Theobaldi, who designed much for Philip II. in the -Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence, into the Governor's Palace, -who was Constable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapestries and -pictures, I adventured so far alone, that peeping into a chamber where -the great man was under the barber's hands, he sent one of his negroes (a -slave) to know what I was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was -only admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his lord, I -heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on which I retired with all -the speed I could, passed the guard of Swiss, got into the street, and in -a moment to my company, who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, which in -truth is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern. After -dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, -built by Bramante; the carvings of the marble _facciata_ are by Annibal -Fontana, whom they esteem at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In -a room joining to the church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse, of the -same sculptor's work, which they will not expose to the air. There are -two _sacristias_, in one of which is a fine Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; -in the other is one of Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world -admires. The Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and -embroidered copes, which are kept in presses. - -Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular cloister of a -vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 50,000 -crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a cross building for the -sick, and, just under it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places -of the Infirmary. - -There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for by -the same Borromeo and his nephew, the last Cardinal Frederico, some not -yet finished, but of excellent design. - -In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies of the three -Magi, since translated to Cologne in Germany; they, however, preserve the -tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star, and, under -it, "_Sepulchrum trium Magorum_." - -Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of marble, and the ruins -of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing: - - "_Imp. Cæsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi - Tribi Pot. VII. Impi IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi - Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervæ - Abnepoti Dec. Dec._" - -We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of Madonna delle -Grazie, and in the refectory admired that celebrated _Coena Domini_ of -Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the -same that the great virtuoso, Francis I., of France, was so enamored of, -that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding it about with ribs -of iron and timber, to convey it into France. It is indeed one of the -rarest paintings that was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in the -service of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King, coming to visit -him in his old age and sickness, he expired in his arms. But this -incomparable piece is now exceedingly impaired. - -Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to visit us, and took -us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Library, where Cardinal Fred -Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing -with curiosities, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable value -among painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest artists. There are -many rare things of Hans Breugel, and among them the Four Elements. In -this room, stands the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero -Galeazzo Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several drawings by -Da Vinci; but these we could not see, the keeper of them being out of -town, and he always carrying the keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who -had seen them, told me all but one book are small that a huge folio -contained 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, etc. But whereas the -inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered £1,000 for -them,--the truth is, and my Lord himself told me, that it was he who -treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the name and by permission of the -King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the -bargain; but my Lord, having seen them since, did not think them of so -much worth. - -In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the right hand of the -door, is a small wainscot closet, furnished with rare manuscripts. Two -original letters of the Grand Signor were shown us, sent to two Popes, -one of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia], and the other -mentioning the head of the lance which pierced our Blessed Savior's side, -as a present to the Pope: I would feign have gotten a copy of them, but -could not; I hear, however, that they are since translated into Italian, -and that therein is a most honorable mention of Christ. - -We revisited St. Ambrose's church. The high altar is supported by four -porphyry columns, and under it lie the remains of that holy man. Near it -they showed us a pit, or well (an obscure place it is), where they say -St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine, and recited the _Te Deum_; for so -imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils that -have been held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings and -Emperors, receiving the iron crown from the Archbishop of this see.[37] -They show the History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The high -altar is wonderfully rich. - - [Footnote 37: Bonaparte afterward took it, and placed it on his own - head.] - -Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe: it has no suburbs, -but is circled with a stately wall for ten miles, in the center of a -country that seems to flow with milk and honey. The air is excellent; the -fields fruitful to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of -provisions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 monasteries, and 40,000 -inhabitants; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, full of -sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especially for works in crystal, -which is here cheap, being found among the Alps. They have curious -straw-work among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good river, and a -citadel at some small distance from the city, commanding it, of great -strength for its works and munitions of all kinds. It was built by -Galeatius II., and consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and -fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth; has two -strong towers as one enters, and within is another fort, and spacious -lodgings for the soldiers, and for exercising them. No accommodation for -strength is wanting, and all exactly uniform. They have here also all -sorts of work and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and provisions. The -fosse is of spring water, with a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts -vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vasques Coronada was now Governor; the -garrison Spaniards only. - -There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Signor -Septalla, a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendom for his -learning and virtues. Among other things, he showed us an Indian wood, -that has the perfect scent of civet; a flint, or pebble, that has a -quantity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being clear as -agate; divers crystals that have water moving in them, some of them -having plants, leaves, and hog's bristles in them; much amber full of -insects, and divers things of woven amianthus. - -Milan is a sweet place, and though the streets are narrow, they abound in -rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every -night. Walking a turn in the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who -passed by, hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while -earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant, desiring we would -honor him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, -he not speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with thanks, -though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed what might be the meaning -of it in this jealous place; but on inquiry, it was told us he was a -Scots Colonel, who had an honorable command in the city, so that we -agreed to go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an opera -represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in excellent music with -rare scenes, in which there acted a celebrated beauty. - -Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant again to -conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace, richly -furnished. There were other guests, all soldiers, one of them a -Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he -excused his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us; telling us it -was his custom, when he heard of any English travelers (who but rarely -would be known to pass through that city for fear of the Inquisition), to -invite them to his house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous -dinner; and the wine was so tempting, that after some healths had gone -about, and we had risen from the table, the Colonel led us into his hall, -where there hung up divers colors, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other -arms, being trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the -enemy; among them, he would needs bestow a pair of pistols on Captain -Wray, one of our fellow-travelers, and a good drinking gentleman, and on -me a Turkish bridle woven with silk and very curiously embossed, with -other silk trappings, to which hung a half moon finely wrought, which he -had taken from a bashaw whom he had slain. With this glorious spoil, I -rode the rest of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterward -into England. He then showed us a stable of brave horses, with his menage -and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caused to be brought out, which he -mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman. When -this was done, and he had alighted,--contrary to the advice of his groom -and page, who knew the nature of the beast, and that their master was a -little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse that had not yet -been managed and was very ungovernable, but was otherwise a very -beautiful creature; this he mounting, the horse, getting the reins in a -full _carriere_, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing -the Colonel so forcibly against the wall of the menage, that though he -sat on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the jade on all fours again, he -desired to be taken down and so led in, where he cast himself on a -pallet; and, with infinite lamentations, after some time we took leave of -him, being now speechless. The next morning, going to visit him, we found -before the door the canopy which they usually carry over the host, and -some with lighted tapers; which made us suspect he was in a very sad -condition, and so indeed we found him, an Irish Friar standing by his -bedside as confessing him, or at least disguising a confession, and -other ceremonies used _in extremis_; for we afterward learned that the -gentleman was a Protestant, and had this Friar, his confidant; which was -a dangerous thing at Milan, had it been but suspected. At our entrance, -he sighed grievously, and held up his hands, but was not able to speak. -After vomiting some blood, he kindly took us all by the hand, and made -signs that he should see us no more, which made us take our leave of him -with extreme reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad -disaster made us consult about our departure as soon as we could, not -knowing how we might be inquired after, or engaged, the Inquisition being -so cruelly formidable and inevitable, on the least suspicion. The next -morning, therefore, discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to -carry us to the foot of the Alps, not a little concerned for the death of -the Colonel, which we now heard of, and who had so courteously -entertained us. - -The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a considerable -river into Lago Maggiore; here, at dinner, were two or three Jesuits, who -were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declined conversation with -as decently as we could; so we pursued our journey through a most -fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and uncomfortable. At night, we -lay at Sesto. - -The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in a boat to carry us -over the lake (being one of the largest in Europe), and whence we could -see the towering Alps, and among them the great San Bernardo, esteemed -the highest mountain in Europe, appearing to be some miles above the -clouds. Through this vast water, passes the river Ticinus, which -discharges itself into the Po, by which means Helvetia transports her -merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to leave behind us. - -Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled ashore at Arona, a -strong town belonging to the Duchy of Milan, where, being examined by the -Governor, and paying a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this -fort, is Angiera, another small town, the passage very pleasant with the -prospect of the Alps covered with pine and fir trees, and above them -snow. We passed the pretty island Isabella, about the middle of the -lake, on which is a fair house built on a mount; indeed, the whole island -is a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set above with -orange and citron trees. - -[Sidenote: ISOLA] - -The next we saw was Isola, and we left on our right hand the Isle of St. -Jovanni; and so sailing by another small town built also on an island, we -arrived at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, -and at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were suddenly -after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in the world, and -where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature had here swept up -the rubbish of the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of -Lombardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming from Venice. In -this wretched place, I lay on a bed stuffed with leaves, which made such -a crackling and did so prick my skin through the tick, that I could not -sleep. The next morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we could not -get horses; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied with a loop to put our -feet in, which supplied the place of other trappings. Thus, with my -gallant steed, bridled with my Turkish present, we passed through a -reasonably pleasant but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo, where -we rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the Governor would press -another on us, that his secretary might get a crown. Here we exchanged -our asses for mules, sure-footed on the hills and precipices, being -accustomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought that night -through very steep, craggy, and dangerous passages to a village called -Vedra, being the last of the King of Spain's dominions in the Duchy of -Milan. We had a very infamous wretched lodging. - -The next morning we mounted again through strange, horrid, and fearful -crags and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and only inhabited by bears, -wolves, and wild goats; nor could we anywhere see above a pistol shot -before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains, whose -tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies, and in many places -pierced the clouds. Some of these vast mountains were but one entire -stone, between whose clefts now and then precipitated great cataracts of -melted snow, and other waters, which made a terrible roaring, echoing -from the rocks and cavities; and these waters in some places breaking in -the fall, wet us as if we had passed through a mist, so as we could -neither see nor hear one another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we -jogged on our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only by -felling huge fir trees, and laying them athwart from mountain to -mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth, are very dangerous, and so -are the passages and edges made by cutting away the main rock; others in -steps; and in some places we pass between mountains that have been broken -and fallen on one another; which is very terrible, and one had need of a -sure foot and steady head to climb some of these precipices, besides that -they are harbors for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted -travelers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now freezing in the -snow, and anon frying by the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs -as we descend lower, when we meet now and then a few miserable cottages -so built upon the declining of the rocks, as one would expect their -sliding down. Among these, inhabit a goodly sort of people, having -monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing to their throats, some of -which I have seen as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under -their chins; among the women especially, and that so ponderous, as that -to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about their head, and coming -under the chin to support it; but _quis tumidum guttur miratur in -Alpibus?_ Their drinking so much snow water is thought to be the cause of -it; the men using more wine, are not so strumous as the women. The truth -is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many great water drinkers -here have not these prodigious tumors; it runs, as we say, in the blood, -and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shriveled and -deformed, by its drawing the skin of the face down, that nothing can be -more frightful; to this add a strange puffing dress, furs, and that -barbarous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French, and -Italian. The people are of great stature, extremely fierce and rude, yet -very honest and trusty. - -[Sidenote: MOUNT SAMPION] - -This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we came in prospect of -Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its summit a few huts -and a chapel. Approaching this, Captain Wray's water spaniel (a huge -filthy cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a herd of goats -down the rocks into a river made by the melting of the snow. Arrived at -our cold harbor (though the house had a stove in every room) and supping -on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in cupboards so -high from the floor, that we climbed them by a ladder; we were covered -with feathers, that is, we lay between two ticks stuffed with them, and -all little enough to keep one warm. The ceilings of the rooms are -strangely low for those tall people. The house was now (in September) -half covered with snow, nor is there a tree, or a bush, growing within -many miles. - -From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten away the next -morning; but, as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young fellow -demanding money for a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray's dog had -killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying in the cold, -we set spurs and endeavored to ride away, when a multitude of people -being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sunday morning -and attending for the priest to say mass), they stopped our mules, beat -us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our carbines, drew us into one -of the rooms of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus we continued -prisoners till mass was ended, and then came half a score grim Swiss, -who, taking on them to be magistrates, sat down on the table, and -condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat, and ten more for attempting -to ride away, threatening that if we did not pay it speedily, they would -send us to prison, and keep us to a day of public justice, where, as they -perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pretended we had -primed our carbines and would have shot some of them (as indeed the -Captain was about to do), we might have had our heads cut off, as we were -told afterward, for that among these rude people a very small misdemeanor -does often meet that sentence. Though the proceedings appeared highly -unjust, on consultation among ourselves we thought it safer to rid -ourselves out of their hands, and the trouble we were brought into; and -therefore we patiently laid down the money, and with fierce countenances -had our mules and arms delivered to us, and glad we were to escape as we -did. This was cold entertainment, but our journey after was colder, the -rest of the way having been (as they told us) covered with snow since the -Creation; no man remembered it to be without; and because, by the -frequent snowing, the tracks are continually filled up, we passed by -several tall masts set up to guide travelers, so as for many miles they -stand in ken of one another, like to our beacons. In some places, where -there is a cleft between two mountains, the snow fills it up, while the -bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen arch of snow, and that -so hard as to bear the greatest weight; for as it snows often, so it -perpetually freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flawed the very -skin of my face. - -Beginning now to descend a little, Captain Wray's horse (that was our -sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging through a bank of loose -snow, slid down a frightful precipice, which so incensed the choleric -cavalier, his master, that he was sending a brace of bullets into the -poor beast, lest our guide should recover him, and run away with his -burden; but, just as he was lifting up his carbine, we gave such a shout, -and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging -through the snow, he fell from another steep place into another bottom, -near a path we were to pass. It was yet a good while ere we got to him, -but at last we recovered the place, and, easing him of his charge, hauled -him out of the snow, where he had been certainly frozen in, if we had not -prevented it, before night. It was as we judged almost two miles that he -had slid and fallen, yet without any other harm than the benumbing of his -limbs for the present, but, with lusty rubbing and chafing he began to -move, and, after a little walking, performed his journey well enough. All -this way, affrighted with the disaster of this horse, we trudged on foot, -driving our mules before us; sometimes we fell, sometimes we slid, -through this ocean of snow, which after October is impassible. Toward -night, we came into a larger way, through vast woods of pines, which -clothe the middle parts of these rocks. Here, they were burning some to -make pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we do to make -charcoal, reserving what melts from them, which hardens into pitch. We -passed several cascades of dissolved snow, that had made channels of -formidable depth in the crevices of the mountains, and with such a -fearful roaring as we could hear it for seven long miles. It is from -these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, which pass through all France -and Germany, derive their originals. Late at night, we got to a town -called Briga, at the foot of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost every -door had nailed on the outside and next the street a bear's, wolf's, or -fox's head, and divers of them, all three; a savage kind of sight, but, -as the Alps are full of the beasts, the people often kill them. The next -morning, we returned to our guide, and took fresh mules, and another to -conduct us to the Lake of Geneva, passing through as pleasant a country -as that we had just traveled was melancholy and troublesome. A strange -and sudden change it seemed; for the reverberation of the sunbeams from -the mountains and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above -two flight-shots in breadth, for a very great number of miles, renders -the passage excessively hot. Through such extremes we continued our -journey, that goodly river, the Rhone, gliding by us in a narrow and -quiet channel almost in the middle of this Canton, fertilizing the -country for grass and corn, which grow here in abundance. - -[Sidenote: SION] - -We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city, a bishop's seat, -and the head of Valesia. There is a castle, and the bishop who resides in -it, has both civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the -custom of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had -been a Colonel in France: he treated us with extreme civility, and was so -displeased at the usage we received at Mount Sampion, that he would needs -give us a letter to the Governor of the country, who resided at St. -Maurice, which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront. This was -a true old blade, and had been a very curious virtuoso, as we found by a -handsome collection of books, medals, pictures, shells, and other -antiquities. He showed two heads and horns of the true capricorn, which -animal he told us was frequently killed among the mountains; one branch -of them was as much as I could well lift, and near as high as my head, -not much unlike the greater sort of goat's, save that they bent forward, -by help whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence -the inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak prodigious things of -their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing, -notwithstanding their being cloven-footed, unapt (one would think) to -take hold and walk so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The -Colonel would have given me one of these beams, but the want of a -convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to refuse his courtesy. -He told me that in the castle there were some Roman and Christian -antiquities, and he had some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited -us to his country-house, where he said he had better pictures, and other -rarities; but, our time being short, I could not persuade my companions -to stay and visit the places he would have had us see, nor the offer he -made to show us the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts. The -next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty well-fashioned -young woman, with a small ruby ring, we parted somewhat late from our -generous host. - -Passing through the same pleasant valley between the horrid mountains on -either hand, like a gallery many miles in length, we got to Martigni, -where also we were well entertained. The houses in this country are all -built of fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The -people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very odd fashion, for the -most part in blue cloth, very whole and warm, with little variety of -distinction between the gentleman and common sort, by a law of their -country being exceedingly frugal. Add to this their great honesty and -fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part with: I saw not one -beggar. We paid the value of twenty shillings English, for a day's hire -of one horse. Every man goes with a sword by his side, the whole country -well disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such -ill success against them; one lusty Swiss at their narrow passages is -sufficient to repel a legion. It is a frequent thing here for a young -tradesman, or farmer, to leave his wife and children for twelve or -fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain, France, Italy, -or Germany, and then return again to work. I look upon this country to be -the safest spot of all Europe, neither envied nor envying; nor are any of -them rich, nor poor; they live in great simplicity and tranquillity; -and, though of the fourteen Cantons half be Roman Catholics, the rest -reformed, yet they mutually agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and -are its only security against its potent neighbors, as they themselves -are from being attacked by the greater potentates, by the mutual jealousy -of their neighbors, as either of them would be overbalanced, should the -Swiss, who are wholly mercenary and auxiliaries, be subjected to France -or Spain. - -[Sidenote: BEVERETTA] - -[Sidenote: GENEVA] - -We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome town and residence -of the President, where justice is done. To him we presented our letter -from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had received for killing a -wretched goat, which so incensed him, that he swore if we would stay he -would not only help us to recover our money again, but most severely -punish the whole rabble; but our desire of revenge had by this time -subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so near France, which we reckoned -as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him; but we -excused ourselves, and, returning to our inn, while we were eating -something before we took horse, the Governor had caused two pages to -bring us a present of two great vessels of covered plate full of -excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded the youths; -they were two vast bowls supported by two Swiss, handsomely wrought after -the German manner. This civility and that of our host at Sion, perfectly -reconciled us to the highlanders; and so, proceeding on our journey we -passed this afternoon through the gate which divides the Valais from the -Duchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so, through Montei, -we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being extremely weary and -complaining of my head, and finding little accommodation in the house, I -caused one of our hostess's daughters to be removed out of her bed and -went immediately into it while it was yet warm, being so heavy with pain -and drowsiness that I would not stay to have the sheets changed; but I -shortly after paid dearly for my impatience, falling sick of the smallpox -as soon as I came to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the -tale the good woman told me of her daughter having had an ague, I -afterward concluded she had been newly recovered of the smallpox. -Notwithstanding this, I went with my company, the next day, hiring a bark -to carry us over the lake; and indeed, sick as I was, the weather was so -serene and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that never -had travelers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed the whole length of the -lake, about thirty miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) -affording one of the most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps -covered with snow, though at a great distance, yet showing their aspiring -tops. Through this lake, the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as -not to mingle with its exceeding deep waters, which are very clear, and -breed the most celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of any in -Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet in length sold in the -market for a small price, and such we had in the lodging where we abode, -which was at the White Cross. All this while, I held up tolerably; and -the next morning having a letter for Signor John Diodati, the famous -Italian minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I -went to his house, and had a great deal of discourse with that learned -person. He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deal, -while sailing for Holland, that he had seen London, and was exceedingly -taken with the civilities he received. He so much approved of our -Church-government by Bishops, that he told me the French Protestants -would make no scruple to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a king -of the Reformed religion as we had. He exceedingly deplored the -difference now between his Majesty and the Parliament. After dinner, came -one Monsieur Saladine, with his little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, to -visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of the town; but, -being now no more able to hold up my head, I was constrained to keep my -chamber, imagining that my very eyes would have dropped out; and this -night I felt such a stinging about me, that I could not sleep. In the -morning, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor, he persuaded me to be -bled. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said, he had been -physician to Gustavus the Great, King of Sweden, when he passed this way -into Italy, under the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of -Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciæ, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on -his returning out of Italy. He afterward acknowledged that he should not -have bled me, had he suspected the smallpox, which broke out a day after. -He afterward purged me, and applied leeches, and God knows what this -would have produced, if the spots had not appeared, for he was thinking -of bleeding me again. They now kept me warm in bed for sixteen days, -tended by a vigilant Swiss matron, whose monstrous throat, when I -sometimes awakened out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the -pimples were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to pain, -but infinitely afflicted with heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, after -five weeks' keeping my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his -lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my physician, to excuse -his letting me bleed, told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would -have proved the plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded by any other -method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Monsieur -Saladine's, and in the afternoon went across the water on the side of the -lake, and took a lodging that stood exceedingly pleasant, about half a -mile from the city for the better airing; but I stayed only one night, -having no company there, save my pipe; so, the next day, I caused them to -row me about the lake as far as the great stone, which they call -NEPTUNE'S ROCK, on which they say sacrifice was anciently offered to him. -Thence, I landed at certain cherry gardens and pretty villas by the side -of the lake, and exceedingly pleasant. Returning, I visited their -conservatories of fish; in which were trouts of six and seven feet long, -AS THEY AFFIRMED. - -The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst dips into a cavern -underground, about six miles from it, and afterward rises again, and runs -its open course, like our Mole, or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The -next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, many -of that country, especially of Lucca, his native place, being inhabitants -of Geneva, and of the Reformed religion. - -The town lying between Germany, France, and Italy, those three tongues -are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. It is a strong, well-fortified -city, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, -but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloisters, being -all of wood), through which the people pass dry and in the shade, winter -and summer, exceedingly deform the fronts of the buildings. Here are -abundance of booksellers; but their books are of ill impressions; these, -with watches (of which store are made here), crystal, and excellent -screwed guns, are the staple commodities. All provisions are good and -cheap. - -The town-house is fairly built of stone; the portico has four black -marble columns; and, on a table of the same, under the city arms, a -demi-eagle and cross, between cross-keys, is a motto, "POST TENEBRAS -LUX," and this inscription: - - _Quum anno 1535 profligatâ Romanâ Anti-Christi Tyrannide, - abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hìc - in suam puritatem, Ecclesiâ in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei - beneficio repositâ, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa - in suam libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; - Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuæ memoriæ causâ - fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum - gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit._ - -The territories about the town are not so large as many ordinary -gentlemen have about their country farms, for which cause they are in -continual watch, especially on the Savoy side; but, in case of any siege -the Swiss are at hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, -toward the street: - - D.O.M.S. - - _Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ - restitutâ, et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et - forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum - Primari Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum - venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo - adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti, - beneficii monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi_ - CC[~C~].I[~C~].XXXIV. - -In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were -removing earth in the fortifications. - -A little out of the town is a spacious field, which they call Campus -Martius; and well it may be so termed, with better reason, than that at -Rome at present (which is no more a field, but all built into streets), -for here on every Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise -people permit their youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, and in the -long and cross bows, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be -as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they yearly -elect him who has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the -king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears that weapon in his -hat in gold, with a crown over it made fast to the hat like a brooch. In -this field, is a long house wherein their arms and furniture are kept in -several places very neatly. To this joins a hall, where, at certain -times, they meet and feast; in the glass windows are the arms and names -of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field, is a very noble -Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a -tavern, and a trey-table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It is -also the usual place of public execution of those who suffer for any -capital crime, though committed in another country, by which law divers -fugitives have been put to death, who have fled hither to escape -punishment in their own country. Among other severe punishments here, -adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a game at mall, I -supped with Mr. Saladine. - -On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the French -mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat on. The Church Government is -severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set -it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of -that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, a most learned -young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of the University, -preached at St. Peter's, a spacious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a -cathedral and a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which -stands a continual sentinel; in another cannons are mounted. The church -is very decent within; nor have they at all defaced the painted windows, -which are full of pictures of saints; nor the stalls, which are all -carved with the history of our Blessed Savior. - -In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen exercise in Mars' -Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that -some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I -first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they -formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in -frames, and had great screws to bend them, doing execution at an -incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket, -rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine I -brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot, I found them go -into a long house, and cleanse their guns, before they charged again. - -On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without the works, where were -many rare tulips, anemones, and other choice flowers. The Rhone, running -athwart the town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, in -imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, and it has a -church of the same name. On two wooden bridges that cross the river are -several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; -between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient -tower, said to have been built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other -bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial. - -Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile hanging in -chains; and against the wall of one of the chambers, seven judges were -painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but one hand; I -know not the story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well -furnished and kept. - -After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair structure; in the -lower part are the schools, which consist of nine classes; and a hall -above, where the students assemble; also a good library. They showed us a -very ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, and a -MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Professors their -lodgings. I also went to the Hospital, which is very commodious; but the -Bishop's Palace is now a prison. - -This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women, for, even at this -distance from the Alps, the gentlewomen have somewhat full throats; but -our Captain Wray (afterward Sir William, eldest son of that Sir -Christopher, who had both been in arms against his Majesty for the -Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's -daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be prevailed on to -think on his journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot. - -My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles of gold to my -host, and five to my honest doctor, who for six weeks' attendance and the -apothecary thought it so generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he -presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written with -his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much observed, and I bless God -passed the journey without inconvenience from sickness, but it was an -extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the -craggy ways. - -5th July, 1646. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it could not be -brought back against the stream of the Rhone. We were two days going to -Lyons, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near the -town down a very steep declivity of water for a full mile. From Lyons, we -proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at -Feurs. At Roanne we indulged ourselves with the best that all France -affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful, so as the -supper we had might have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask beds, and -were treated like emperors. The town is one of the neatest built in all -France, on the brink of the Loire; and here we agreed with an old fisher -to row us as far as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, -early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits' -College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it -nobly built. - -The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant -from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had -followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the -Governor's pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great -displeasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities. - -[Sidenote: ORLEANS] - -The next day we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of which I -reckon my share came to little less than twenty leagues. Sometimes, we -footed it through pleasant fields and meadows; sometimes, we shot at -fowls, and other birds; nothing came amiss: sometimes, we played at -cards, while others sung, or were composing verses; for we had the great -poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and some other ingenious persons. - -At Orleans we abode but one day; the next, leaving our mad Captain behind -us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that, after so many disasters and -accidents in a tedious peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and -here I resolved to rest myself before I went further. - -It was now October, and the only time that in my whole life that I spent -most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soon recovered -my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and -Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and such -exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in much reputation -among the sober Italians. - -28th January, 1647. I changed my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de -Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains; and thence, on the 12th of -February, to another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, -which cost me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a course of -Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure operating upon most of the -nobler processes. March 3d, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the -lute, though to small perfection. - -In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes; for which I was four times -let bleed. - -22d May, 1647. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes and plate, to the -value of three score pounds; but, through the diligence of Sir Richard -Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose -lady and family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly set -my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, obtaining of the -Judge, with no small difficulty, that the process against the thief -should not concern his life, being his first offense. - -10th June, 1647. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I went -to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his court, -to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his chaplains (since Dean of -Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury), that he would -accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on Thursday, 27th of June, -1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, between the hours of -eleven and twelve, some few select friends being present. And this being -Corpus Christi feast, was solemnly observed in this country; the streets -were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and strewed with flowers. - -10th September, 1647. Being called into England, to settle my affairs -after an absence of four years, I took leave of the Prince and Queen, -leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and -prudent mother. - -4th October, 1647. I sealed and declared my will, and that morning went -from Paris, taking my journey through Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. -Vallerie, where I stayed one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some -affairs, and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I -arrived on the 11th, and that night embarking in a packet boat, was by -one o'clock got safe to Dover; for which I heartily put up my thanks to -God who had conducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to me -through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I arrived at London the -next day at evening, being the 2d of October, new style. - -[Sidenote: WOTTON] - -5th October, 1647. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my -brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court where I had the honor to kiss -his Majesty's hand, and give him an account of several things I had in -charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not -long after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Sergeant Hatton's at Thames -Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to London. - -14th October, 1647. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my -house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my wife's uncle, who had charge of it -and the estate about it, during my father-in-law's residence in France. -On the 15th, I again occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple. - -9th November, 1647. My sister opened to me her marriage with Mr. -Glanville. - -14th January, 1647-48. From London I went to Wotton to see my young -nephew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst], to visit my brother Richard. - -5th February, 1648. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the cockpit, after there -had been none of these diversions for many years during the war. - -28th February, 1648. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy -(afterward Lord Downe), to Thistleworth, where we dined with Sir Clepesby -Crew, and afterward to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, and -rounds of plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, -who has some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian -hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water colors, by Breughel, -which I bought for him. - -26th April, 1648. There was a great uproar in London, that the rebel army -quartering at Whitehall, would plunder the City, on which there was -published a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. - -4th May, 1648. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agreement between his -Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men addressed the Parliament -for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's -guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South -Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000. - -30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being -at the head of them. Their first rendezvous was in Broome-field, next my -house at Sayes Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to -Colchester, where was that memorable siege. - -27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of -my brother George, for £3,300. - -1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, -to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. - -10th July, 1648. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers being -slain by the rebels near Kingston. - -16th August, 1648. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my -brother, Richard, who married the daughter and coheir of Esquire Minn, -lately deceased; by which he had a great estate both in land and money on -the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bridegroom were, -was overturned in coming home; but no harm was done. - -28th August, 1648. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the celebrated -follies of Bartholomew Fair. - -16th September, 1648. Came my lately married brother, Richard, and his -wife, to visit me, when I showed them Greenwich, and her Majesty's -Palace, now possessed by the rebels. - -28th September, 1648. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of Arundel, -and returned to Wotton. - -31st October, 1648. I went to see my manor of Preston Beckhelvyn, and the -Cliffhouse. - -29th November, 1648. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and Lady Gerrard, -christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn, -by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate -which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it-- - - IN MEMORIAM FACTI. - - ANNO CIC IX. XLIIX. CAL. DECEM. VIII. VIRGINUM CASTISS: XTIANORUM - INNOCENTIS: NEPT: SUAVIS: MARIÆ. JOHAN. EVELYNUS AVUNCULUS ET - SUSCEPTOR VASCULUM HOC CUM EPIGRAPHE L. M. Q. D. - AVE MARIA GRATI SIS PLENA; DOMINUS TECUM. - -2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott for £3,400 to one -Mr. Bridges. - -13th December, 1648. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and -endeavored to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty; but were surprised -by the rebel army; the members dispersed, and great confusion every where -in expectation of what would be next. - -17th December, 1648. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel, one -Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -18th December, 1648. I got privately into the council of the rebel army, -at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies. - -This was a most exceedingly wet year, neither frost nor snow all the -winter for more than six days in all. Cattle died every where of a -murrain. - -1st January, 1648-49. I had a lodging and some books at my -father-in-law's house, Sayes Court. - -2d January, 1649. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveler, Mr. -Henshaw, who had two rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective. - -17th January, 1649. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the -rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his Majesty; and saw -that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long after condemned him. - -19th January, 1649. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of -being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night on another vessel -then at anchor, shooting the bridge at three quarters' ebb, for which His -mercy God Almighty be praised. - -21st January, 1649. Was published my translation of Liberty and -Servitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened. - -22d January, 1649. I went through a course of chemistry, at Sayes Court. -Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. - -The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try, condemn, and -murder our excellent King on the 30th of this month, struck me with such -horror, that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be -present at that execrable wickedness; receiving the sad account of it -from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit me this -afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances. - -1st February, 1649. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord -Capell, etc., at their trial before the rebels' NEW COURT OF INJUSTICE. - -15th February, 1649. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich -merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare perspective of -Stenwyck; from thence, to other virtuosos. - -The painter, La Neve has an Andromeda, but I think it a copy after -Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in France. Webb, at the -Exchange, has some rare things in miniature, of Breughel's, also Putti, -in twelve squares, that were plundered from Sir James Palmer. - -At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten, I know not how, -out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old Petit, thought to be Titian's; he -had some good heads of Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an -excellent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr, with other -figures; for now they had plundered, sold, and dispersed a world of rare -paintings of the King's, and his loyal subjects. After all, Sir William -Ducy showed me some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of -Holbein's; Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole-length figure of Edward -VI., which were certainly his Majesty's; also a picture of Queen -Elizabeth; the Lady Isabella Thynne; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, -being a Susanna; and a Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry -VIII., of Holbein; and Francis I., rare indeed, but of whose hand I know -not. - -16th February, 1649. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de -Condé, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter -of consolation to her: and, on the 22d, having recommended Obadiah -Walker, a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel -with, Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court. - -25th February, 1649. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the -lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist. - -26th February, 1649. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn, my kinsman, -the great traveler, and one who believed himself a better architect than -really he was; witness the portico in the Garden at Wotton; yet the great -room at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but -over-built everything. - -27th February, 1649. Came out of France my wife's uncle (Paris still -besieged), being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates: I lost, among -other goods, my wife's picture, painted by Monsieur Bourdon. - -5th March, 1649. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace Yard. - -18th March, 1649. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister, preached -in my parlor, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in -the parish churches, on which the Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped. - -21st March, 1649. I received letters from Paris from my wife, and from -Sir Richard [Browne], with whom I kept up a political correspondence, -with no small danger of being discovered. - -25th March, 1649. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) -in St. Peter's, at Paul's Wharf, London; and, in the morning, the -Archbishop of Armagh, that pious person and learned man, Usher, in -Lincoln's-Inn Chapel. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d April, 1649. To London, and inventoried my movables that had hitherto -been dispersed for fear of plundering: wrote into France, touching my -sudden resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an -excellent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4, v. 26-27. - -My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins, the great -chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries, which I -purchased and caused to be drawn out of several human bodies at Padua. - -11th April, 1649. Received news out of France that peace was concluded; -dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster; and on the 13th I saw a -private dissection at Moulins's house. - -17th April, 1649. I fell dangerously ill of my head; was blistered and -let bleed behind the ears and forehead: on the 23d, began to have ease by -using the fumes of camomile on embers applied to my ears, after all the -physicians had done their best. - -29th April, 1649. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet in -length, and much higher than I could reach. - -12th May, 1649. I purchased the manor of Warley Magna, in Essex: in the -afternoon went to see Gildron's collections of paintings, where I found -Mr. Endymion Porter, of his late Majesty's bedchamber. - -17th May, 1649. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers ladies, -to see the schools, or colleges, of the young gentlewomen. - -19th May, 1649. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had some good -paintings, especially a monk at his beads. - -30th May, 1649. Unkingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's statues -thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the Exchange. - -7th June, 1649. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton[38] (brother to Sir Ralph, -Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been Ambassador extraordinary -in Spain, sojourned some time with my father-in-law at Paris, a most -excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greek lady, whom I knew in -Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentleman. Also, the -Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave of them and other friends now -ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle between some rebel -soldiers and gentlemen about the Temple. - - [Footnote 38: Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord - Hopton (so well known for his services to Charles in the course of - the Civil War).] - -June 10th, 1649. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's-Inn, from -Romans 5, verse 13. I received the blessed Sacrament, preparatory to my -journey. - -13th June, 1649. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen, newly -freed from sentence of death among the lords that suffered. With him was -one Carew, who played incomparably on the Welsh harp; afterward I treated -divers ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. - -This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain at the Hague, the -villain who managed the trial against his sacred Majesty. - -17th June, 1649. I got a pass from the rebel Bradshaw, then in great -power. - -20th June, 1649. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames, to -take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I thought to have -them engraved. - -2d July, 1649. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John -Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts., when I took leave of -both Sir Johns and their ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John -of Wilts' daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother of the -present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes Court this night. - -4th July, 1649. Visited Lady Hatton, her lord sojourning at Paris with my -father-in-law. - -9th July, 1649. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend, Mr. Eaton, -afterward a judge, who corresponded with me in France. - -11th July, 1649. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine historian -and poet; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends to take leave of -me. - -[Sidenote: GRAVESEND] - -12th July, 1649. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars for -Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and sister, Glanville, who -there supped with me and returned; whence I took post immediately to -Dover, where I arrived by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that -night, went on board a barque guarded by a pinnace of eight guns; this -being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy, having -several times before been pillaged. We had a good passage, though chased -for some hours by a pirate, but he dared not attack our frigate, and we -then chased him till he got under the protection of the castle at Calais. -It was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over -with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incomparable writer of several -hands, whom I afterward preferred in the Prerogative Office, at the -return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of -Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left -England _incognito_. At the entrance of the town, the Lieutenant -Governor, being on his horse with the guards, let us pass courteously. I -visited Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gentleman, and walked in the -church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very -fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The citadel seems to -be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laid under water by -sluices for many miles. - -16th July, 1649. We departed from Paris, in company with that very -pleasant lady, Lady Catherine Scott, and others. In all this journey we -were greatly apprehensive of parties, which caused us to alight often out -of our coach and walk separately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, -in all suspected places. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -1st August, 1649. At three in the afternoon we came to St. Denis, saw the -rarities of the church and treasury; and so to Paris that evening. - -The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord High Treasurer -Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor, Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary -of State, Sir George Carteret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having -now been absent from my wife above a year and a half. - -18th August, 1649. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's hand; in -the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went Mrs. Barlow, the King's -mistress[39] and mother to the Duke of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, -bold, but insipid creature. - - [Footnote 39: The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of - Richard Walters, Esq., of Haverfordwest. She had two children by the - King; James, subsequently so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and - Mary, whose lot was obscure in comparison with that of her brother, - but of course infinitely happier. She married a Mr. William - Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William Fanshawe, Esq.] - -19th August, 1649. I went to salute the French King and the Queen -Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's coaches with my -Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since -Lord Croftes. - -7th September, 1649. Went with my wife and dear Cousin to St. Germains, -and kissed the Queen-Mother's hand; dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord -Hatton. Divers of the great men of France came to see the King. The next -day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to see the -President Maison's palace, built castle-wise, of a milk-white fine -freestone; the house not vast, but well contrived, especially the -staircase, and the ornaments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry -moat, the offices under ground, the gardens very excellent with -extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble prospect toward the -forest, and on the Seine toward Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows, -walks, river, forest, corn-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything -in Italy to exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has pulled -down a whole village to make room for his pleasure about it. - -12th September, 1649. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majesty's -chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, -preached. - -13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince of Condé to supper at -St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in the tennis court, -where I saw a famous match between Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, -and so returned to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a -dignity I often declined. - -1st October, 1649. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterward Sir Samuel), to -see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel; and, after dinner, to talk with -the poor ignorant and superstitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to -Paris. - -2d October, 1649. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir William) and -the Duke's secretary, etc., to visit me. - -5th October, 1649. Dined with Sir George Ratcliffe, the great favorite of -the late Earl of Stratford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. - -7th October, 1649. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton, -governess to Madame. - -15th October, 1649. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the rebels, and -all put to the sword, which made us very sad, forerunning the loss of all -Ireland. - -21st October, 1649. I went to hear Dr. d'Avinson's lecture in the -physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect of that -excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus. - -30th October, 1649. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober -English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was -interred in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our church, which -was said before in our chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried -the great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like a -fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I returned to Paris with -Sir Philip Musgrave, and Sir Marmaduke Langdale, since Lord -Langdale.--Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal autumn. - -5th November, 1649. I received divers letters out of England, requiring -me to come over about settling some of my concerns. - -7th November, 1649. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) -preached in our chapel on Matthew 4, verse 3. - -18th November, 1649. I went with my father-in-law to see his audience at -the French Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio, he was introduced by the -master of ceremonies, and, after delivery of his credentials, as from our -King, since his father's murder, he was most graciously received by the -King of France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience. This was -in the Palais Cardinal. - -After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Queen Regent I went to -see the house built by the late great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most -observable thing is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most -illustrious persons and single actions in France, with innumerable -emblems between every table. In the middle of the gallery, is a neat -chapel, rarely paved in work and devices of several sorts of marble, -besides the altar-piece and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, -the other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apartments are -rarely gilded and carved, with some good modern paintings. In the -presence hang three huge branches of crystal. In the French King's -bedchamber, is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a -chamber like a movable box, with a rich embroidered bed. The fabric of -the palace is not magnificent, being but of two stories; but the garden -is so spacious as to contain a noble basin and fountain continually -playing, and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract it. -So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a bull-baiting, and -returned home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paul, the Prince -Elector's agent. - -19th November, 1649. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an -English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse about religion. - -28th December, 1649. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed St. Stephen's -church; the building, though Gothic, is full of carving; within it is -beautiful, especially the choir and winding stairs. The glass is well -painted, and the tapestry hung up this day about the choir, representing -the conversion of Constantine, was exceedingly rich. - -I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his instruction about -some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his book. - -I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn thanks to -Almighty God.[40] - - [Footnote 40: This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every - year, but it will not always be necessary here to insert it.] - -29th December, 1649. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir George -Radcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor that they had provided -no gossips, so as several of us drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of -Peterborough (Dr. Cousin) officiating: we named it Andrew, being on the -eve of that Apostle's day. - -1st January, 1649-50. I began this Jubilee with the public office in our -chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterward -Lord Keeper. - -18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of Condé and his brother -carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. - -6th February, 1650. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro, one of the -Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of great name for his -knowledge in that art, to visit my wife, and sung before divers persons -of quality in my chamber. - -1st March, 1650. I went to see the masquerados, which was very fantastic; -but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. - -13th March, 1650. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy, where -divers of the French and English noblesse, especially my Lord of Ossory, -and Richard, sons to the Marquis of Ormond (afterward Duke), did their -exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spectators -and great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. - -25th April, 1650. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace so called, -built by Francis I. It is observable only for its open manner of -architecture, being much of terraces and galleries one over another to -the very roof; and for the materials, which are mostly of earth painted -like porcelain, or China-ware, whose colors appear very fresh, but is -very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this pottery, -chimney-pieces, and columns both within and without. Under the chapel is -a chimney in the midst of a room parted from the _Salle des Gardes_. The -house is fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista toward -the Bois de Boulogne and river. - -30th April, 1650. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor, -Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought some prints; -and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape graver. - -3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the operation of -cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years old underwent the -operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing great joy when -he saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty -God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this deplorable -infirmity. - -7th May, 1650. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my wife, -together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory and his brother, to -Vamber, a place near the city famous for butter; when, coming homeward, -being on foot, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden, -who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil language; on which our -young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bade him ask pardon, -which he did with much submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone -far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming with guns, -swords, staves, and forks, and who followed, flinging stones; on which, -we turned, and were forced to engage, and with our swords, stones, and -the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for -near a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where we were -besieged, and at length forced to submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton, -with some others, were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship -was confined under three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's -master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one -of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nôtre -Dame. Several of us were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, -caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. -Immediately afterward, came Monsieur St. Germain himself, in great wrath, -on hearing that his housekeeper was assaulted; but when he saw the King's -officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident and -understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the -fellow's pardon, and desiring the ladies to accept their submission and a -supper at his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, -guarded by Prince Griffith (a Welsh hero going under that name, and well -known in England for his extravagancies), together with the scholars of -two academies, who came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and -would fain have alarmed the town we received the affront from: which, -with much ado, we prevented. - -12th May, 1650. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court of France of -the affront we had received, the President was ordered to ask pardon of -Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make submission, -and be dismissed. There came along with him the President de Thou, son of -the great Thuanus [the historian], and so all was composed. But I have -often heard that gallant gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that -in all the conflicts he was ever in at sea or on land (in the most -desperate of both which he had often been), he believed he was never in -so much danger as when these people rose against us. He used to call it -the _bataile de Vambre_, and remember it with a great deal of mirth as an -adventure, _en cavalier_. - -24th May, 1650. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at -the ring where were many brave horses, gallants, and ladies, my Lord -Stanhope entertaining us with a collation. - -12th June, 1650. Being Trinity Sunday, the Dean of Peterborough preached; -after which there was an ordination of two divines, Durell and Brevent -(the one was afterward Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very -learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great gravity, -after a pious and learned exhortation declaring the weight and dignity of -their function, especially now in a time of the poor Church of England's -affliction. He magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object, -viz, the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God; producing many -human instances of the transitoriness and vanity of all other dignity; -that of all the triumphs the Roman conquerors made, none was comparable -to that of our Blessed Savior's, when he led captivity captive, and gave -gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by which his faithful and -painful ministers triumphed over Satan as often as they reduced a sinner -from the error of his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They -were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the altar, the -Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so were made both Deacons and -Priests at the same time, in regard to the necessity of the times, there -being so few Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a -failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the Communion. This -was all performed in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, at Paris. - -13th June, 1650. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was -afterward made a knight by the French King for his art. He engraved my -picture in copper. At a future time he presented me with my own picture, -done all with his pen; an extraordinary curiosity. - -21st June, 1650. I went to see the Samaritan, or pump, at the end of the -Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising no great matter, is, -besides the machine, furnished with innumerable rarities both of art and -nature; especially the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, -growing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of -crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals and marcasites, -with two great conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crowns at -Amsterdam. He showed us many landscapes and prospects, very rarely -painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon; divers antiquities -and relievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside of the amphitheater -of Titus, incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clere himself; two boys and -three skeletons, molded by Fiamingo; a book of statues, with the pen -made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which one may discover many -errors in the _taille-douce_ of Perrier, who has added divers conceits of -his own that are not in the originals. He has likewise an infinite -collection of _taille-douces_, richly bound in morocco. - -He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have entertained a prince, -with pictures of the greatest masters, especially a Venus of Perino del -Vaga; the Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of -porcelain, and many designed by Raphael; some paintings of Poussin, and -Fioravanti; antiques in brass; the looking-glass and stands rarely -carved. In a word, all was great, choice, and magnificent, and not to be -passed by as I had often done, without the least suspicion that there -were such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future visit, he -showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn through the battlements of -the arches of Pont Neuf into a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so -that the coaches and horses thundered over our heads. - -[Sidenote: CALAIS] - -27th June, 1650. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and other -friends, took horse for England, paying the messenger eight pistoles for -me and my servant to Calais, setting out with seventeen in company -well-armed, some Portuguese, Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains -and officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next day, to Beauvais, -and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached Abbeville; next, -dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company on foot (being now -within the inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day's -journey from St. Omers and the frontiers), which we drew very near to, -ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were ordered and -led by a captain of our train; but, as we were on the speed, they called -out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among -them armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. The next day, -we marched in good order, the passage being now exceeding dangerous, and -got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it -made the skin peel off. - -I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about three in the -afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hearing there was a pirate then -also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair -S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would -have us to the mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we -were dismissed. - -Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that -afternoon our trunks were visited. - -The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my -Lady Catherine Scott, whom that very day twelve months before I met at -sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far -off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at -Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave -of my lady about four the next morning. - -5th July, 1650. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one -Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great -chemist. - -Sunday 7th July, 1650. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was -doing among the Rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went -thither, and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; -thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad. - -17th July, 1650. I went to London to obtain a pass,[41] intending but a -short stay in England. - - [Footnote 41: A copy of it is subjoined. "These are to will and - require you to permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, - Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and other necessaries, - into any port of France without any your lets or molestations, of - which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your - sufficient warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this - 25th of June, 1650. - - "Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, - appointed by authority of Parliament, - JO. BRADSHAWE, President. - - "To all Customers, Comptrollers and Searchers, and all other - officers of the Ports, or Customs." - - Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing; - "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] - M[emory."] Its endorsement, also in his writing, is, "The Pass from - the Council of State, 1650."] - -25th July, 1650. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and -my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who -took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the state, as then -called. - -4th August, 1650. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, -wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. - -6th August, 1650. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an -excellent copy of Titian. - -12th August, 1650. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so -that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and -having only an antiquated pass, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear -of them though not without extraordinary hazard, having before -counterfeited one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of -the rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, -money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal -of Bradshawe himself, where I had not so much as my trunk opened. - -[Sidenote: CALAIS] - -13th August, 1650. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind -not favorable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about one -o'clock; about five in the morning, we had a long boat to carry us to -land, though at a good distance; this we willingly entered, because two -vessels were chasing us; but, being now almost at the harbor's mouth, -through inadvertency there broke in upon us two such heavy seas, as had -almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up in water. Our steersman, -it seems, apprehensive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea -and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into the -pier, and so, God be thanked! we got to Calais, though wet. - -Here I waited for company, the passage toward Paris being still infested -with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. - -16th August, 1650. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1,400 -horse and foot (among them was a captain whom I knew), being come to -town, I took horses for myself and servant, and marched under their -protection to Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these -tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, -cattle, and whatever came in their way; but they had such ill pay, that -they were ready themselves to starve. - -As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the guards doubled, -and everybody running with their movables to Paris, on an alarm that the -enemy was within five leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this -part of France at this time. - -[Sidenote: PARIS] - -The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months only. - -1st September, 1650. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and -indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives. - -Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife -had baptized. - -15th October, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterward Lord Treasurer) and -Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent on a treat; -they shot so exact that it was a drawn match. - -1st November, 1650. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going on his journey -toward Italy; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's -Household, the Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and -Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor. - -6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set -upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave -the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir -Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to -my friends. - -16th November, 1650. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's -Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of -twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of -what was to be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being -patroness of Musicians. News arrived of the death of the Princess of -Orange of the smallpox. - -14th December, 1650. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was -an imposter that had liked to have imposed upon us a pretended secret of -multiplying gold; it is certain he had lived some time in Paris in -extraordinary splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheat. - -22d December, 1650. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me. - -31st December, 1650. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the -past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, -near £600 sterling. - -1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden -and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had -long been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those -countries, the Arabs especially. - -27th January, 1651. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my -grand-mother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me during my -childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety. - -29th January, 1651. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing the -mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come -newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel. - -9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arrêt du -Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris. - -23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a -fair cloister painted with the lives of hermits; a glorious altar now -erecting in the chapel; the garden on the rock with divers descents, with -a fine vineyard, and a delicate prospect toward the city. - -24th February, 1651. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous beast, -much like the camel, but larger. There was also dancing on the rope; but, -above all, surprising to those who were ignorant of the address, was the -water-spouter, who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his -mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. For a piece -of money he discovered the secret to me. I waited on Friar Nicholas at -the convent at Chaillot, who, being an excellent chemist, showed me his -laboratory, and rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both -physician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the names of his -drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or -simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some [Transcriber's -note: special symbol for the planet Mercury] of antimony. He had cured -Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a -monumental altar that was to cost £1,500. - -11th March, 1651. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, where a malefactor -was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to -confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first -bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to -an iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor, and -then his feet with another cable, fastened about five feet further than -his utmost length to another ring on the floor of the room. Thus -suspended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the -rope which bound his feet, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed -the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an -extraordinary manner, he having only a pair of linen drawers on his naked -body. Then, they questioned him of a robbery (the lieutenant being -present and a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher -horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this -agony, confessing nothing, the executioner with a horn (just such as they -drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the -quantity of two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which so -prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and affrighted any one to -see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then -let him down, and carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, -being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I know -not; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly averred him to be the -man, and the fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be -racked, betrayed some guilt; the lieutenant was also of that opinion, and -told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young man) he would -conquer the torture; and so it seems they could not hang him, but did use -in such cases, where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to -the galleys, which is as bad as death. - -There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spectacle was so -uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It -represented yet to me the intolerable sufferings which our Blessed Savior -must needs undergo, when his body was hanging with all its weight upon -the nails on the cross. - -20th March, 1651. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the Marquis -de Crevecoeur's, where were divers princes, dukes, and great persons; -but what appeared to me very mean was, that it began with a puppet-play. - -6th May, 1651. I attended the ambassador to a masque at Court, where the -French King in person danced five entries, but being engaged in -discourse, and better entertained with one of the Queen-Regent's -secretaries, I soon left the entertainment. - -11th May, 1651. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the -Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera. The first scene -represented a chariot of singers composed of the rarest voices that could -be procured, representing Cornaro[42] and Temperance; this was overthrown -by Bacchus and his revelers; the rest consisted of several entries and -pageants of excess, by all the elements. A masque representing fire was -admirable; then came a Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a -heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great -persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, -with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration -of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _à l'antique_, but the -habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious. - - [Footnote 42: The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.] - -23d May, 1651. I went to take leave of the ambassadors for Spain, which -were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edward Hyde; and, as I -returned, I visited Mr. Morine's garden, and his other rarities, -especially corals, minerals, stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of -the Red Sea, the body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and -the two legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of shells, at -least 1,000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of great price; and had a -very curious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was -compiling a natural history. He had also the pictures of his choice -flowers and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of -tulips only. He had _taille-douces_ out of number; the head of the -rhinoceros bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterfly resembling -a perfect bird. - -25th May, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned priest and -famous philosopher,[43] author of the book "De Mundo," with whose worthy -brother I was well acquainted at Rome. I was shown a cabinet of -Maroquin, or Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and -gilding, that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. - - [Footnote 43: A native of Essex, who was born in 1582, educated - abroad, and, his family being Catholic, became a priest of that - church, the sub-rector of the college at Douay. He advocated the - Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him into an extensive - correspondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of which he - Latinized his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died in - 1676.] - -The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of Pentecost, -perstringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgin. - -4th June, 1651. Trinity Sunday, I was absent from church in the afternoon -on a charitable affair for the Abbess of Bourcharvant, who but for me had -been abused by that chemist, Du Menie. Returning, I stepped into the -Grand Jesuits, who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of -solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, coming out -of Italy and from Padua, came to see me, on his return to England. - -5th June, 1651. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, and some other noble -persons, to hear Madam Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and -Italian excellently well, but her voice was not strong. - -7th June, 1651. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the -streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full of images, and -other rich furniture, especially that before the Court, of a rare design -and architecture. There were abundance of excellent pictures and great -vases of silver. - -13th June, 1651. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, -which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, porcelain, medals, -statues, relievos, paintings, _taille-douces_, and antiquities, might -compare with the Italian virtuosos. - -21st June, 1651. I became acquainted with Sieur William Curtius, a very -learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. He had been a scholar to -Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was well advanced in years, and now -Resident for his Majesty at Frankfort. - -2d July, 1651. Came to see me the Earl of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his -brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer's -sons, and Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, a learned and pious man, where -we entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the affairs of -England, and the lamentable condition of our Church. The Lord Gerrard -also called to see my collection of sieges and battles. - -21st July, 1651. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapel, Dr. -Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, preaching. - -2d August, 1651. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were abundance of -ladies and others bathing in the river; the ladies had their tents spread -on the water for privacy. - -29th August, 1651. Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of our -poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr. Waller, being at St. -Germains, desired me to send him a coach from Paris, to bring my wife's -goddaughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. - -6th September, 1651. I went with my wife to St. Germains, to condole with -Mr. Waller's loss. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent -and pious person the Dean of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives -(half-brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with his -wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very evening before he -was to have been put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two stories -high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter, and at -night; so as by swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though -he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went about in women's -habit, and then in a small-coal-man's, traveling 200 miles on foot, -embarked for Scotland with some men he had raised, who coming on shore -were all surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose's score; he -not knowing anything of their barbarous murder of that hero. This he told -us was his fifth escape, and none less miraculous; with this note, that -the charging through 1,000 men armed, or whatever danger could befall a -man, he believed could not more confound and distract a man's thoughts -than the execution of a premeditated escape, the passions of hope and -fear being so strong. This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not -a little given to romance, when he spoke of himself. I returned to Paris -the same evening. - -7th September, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher -of Malmesbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window we saw -the whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French Monarch, -Louis XIV., passing to Parliament, when first he took the kingly -government on him, now being in his 14th year, out of his minority and -the Queen Regent's pupilage. First came the captain of the King's Aids, -at the head of 50, richly liveried; next, the Queen-Mother's Light Horse, -100, the lieutenant being all over covered with embroidery and ribbons, -having before him four trumpets habited in black velvet, full of lace, -and casques of the same. Then, the King's Light Horse, 200, richly -habited, with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before -whom rode the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with -pearl. Next went the grand Prévôt's company on foot, with the Prévôt on -horseback; after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two -gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-colored satin, after their country -fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in his cap a _pennach_ of heron, -with a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss boys, with -halberds. Then, came the _Aide des Cérémonies_; next, the grandees of -court, governors of places and lieutenants-general of provinces, -magnificently habited and mounted; among whom I must not forget the -Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, -because it is said he had never been an Academist, and yet governed a -very unruly horse, and besides his rich suit his Malta Cross was esteemed -at 10,000 crowns. These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, -covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six -trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as many heralds in blue velvet -_semée_ with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on -their heads; behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; -then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding splendid; -behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, alone, carrying the King's -sword in a scarf, which he held up in a blue sheath studded with -fleurs-de-lis; his horse had for reins two scarfs of black taffeta. - -Then came abundance of footmen and pages of the King, new-liveried with -white and red feathers; next, the _garde du corps_ and other officers; -and lastly, appeared the King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a -housing _semee_, with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and -fleurs-de-lis; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was in a suit so -covered with rich embroidery, that one could perceive nothing of the -stuff under it; he went almost the whole way with his hat in hand, -saluting the ladies and acclamators, who had filled the windows with -their beauty, and the air with _Vive le Roi_. He seemed a prince of a -grave yet sweet countenance. After the King, followed divers great -persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also his esquires; masters of -horse, on foot; then the company of _Exempts des Gardes_, and six guards -of Scotch. Between their files were divers princes of the blood, dukes, -and lords; after all these, the Queen's guard of Swiss, pages, and -footmen; then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich coach, with Monsieur -the King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and some other lords and ladies -of honor. About the coach, marched her _Exempts des Gardes_: then the -company of the King's _Gens d'armes_, well mounted, 150, with four -trumpets, and as many of the Queen's; lastly, an innumerable company of -coaches full of ladies and gallants. In this equipage, passed the monarch -to the Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government. - -15th September, 1651. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-in-law, -to the French Court, when he had a favorable audience of the French King, -and the Queen, his mother; congratulating the one on his coming to the -exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy -administration during her late regency, desiring both to preserve the -same amity for his master, our King, as they had hitherto done, which -they both promised, with many civil expressions and words of course upon -such occasions. We were accompanied both going and returning by the -Introductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Ceremonies. I also saw the audience -of Morosini, the Ambassador of Venice, and divers other Ministers of -State from German Princes, Savoy, etc. Afterward I took a walk in the -King's gardens, where I observed that the mall goes the whole square -there of next the wall, and bends with an angle so made as to glance the -wall; the angle is of stone. There is a basin at the end of the garden -fed by a noble fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three -boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In another part is a -complete fort, made with bastions, graft, half-moons, ravelins, and -furnished with great guns cast on purpose to instruct the King in -fortification. - -22d September, 1651. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at Worcester, -which exceedingly mortified our expectations. - -28th September, 1651. I was shown a collection of books and prints made -for the Duke of York. - -1st October, 1651. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preached on Job -xiii., verse 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and -extremities, and for establishing and comforting some ladies of great -quality, who were then to be discharged from our Queen-Mother's service -unless they would go over to the Romish Mass. - -The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of -publishing those Offices, which among the Puritans were wont to be called -COSIN'S COZENING DEVOTIONS, by way of derision. At the first coming of -the Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often upbraiding -our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any hours of -prayer, or breveries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have much spare -time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies, -scandalized it seems at this, moved the matter to the King; whereupon his -Majesty presently called Bishop White to him and asked his thoughts of -it, and whether there might not be found some forms of prayer proper on -such occasions, collected out of some already approved forms, that so the -court ladies and others (who spent much time in trifling) might at least -appear as devout, and be so too, as the new-come-over French ladies, who -took occasion to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On which, the -Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done easily, and was very -necessary; whereupon the King commanded him to employ some person of the -clergy to compile such a Work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, -the King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in his name to set about it -immediately. This the Dean told me he did; and three months after, -bringing the book to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to read -it over, and make his report; this was so well liked, that (contrary to -former custom of doing it by a chaplain) he would needs give it an -_imprimatur_ under his own hand. Upon this there were at first only 200 -copies printed; nor, said he, was there anything in the whole book of my -own composure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those -necessary prefaces, etc., out of the Fathers, touching the times and -seasons of prayer; all the rest being entirely translated and collected -out of an OFFICE published by authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, -and our own Liturgy. This I rather mention to justify that industrious -and pious Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if he had done it -of his own head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, -and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirmed -many to our Church. - -29th October, 1651. Came news and letters to the Queen and Sir Richard -Browne (who was the first that had intelligence of it) of his Majesty's -miraculous escape after the fight at Worcester; which exceedingly -rejoiced us. - -7th November, 1651. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much -discourse on chemical matters. I showed him a particular way of -extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave me a certain powder with which he -affirmed that he had fixed [Transcriber's note: special symbol for the -planet Mercury] (mercury) before the late King. He advised me to try and -digest a little better, and gave me a water which he said was only rain -water of the autumnal equinox, exceedingly rectified, very volatile; it -had a taste of a strong vitriolic, and smelt like _aqua fortis_. He -intended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold; but the truth is, Sir -Kenelm was an arrant mountebank. Came news of the gallant Earl of Derby's -execution by the rebels. - -14th November, 1651. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii., verses 20, -21, 22, upon Jacob's vow, which he appositely applied, it being the first -Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after his escape. I went, in the -afternoon, to visit the Earl of Norwich; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's. - -16th November, 1651. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about two -days; when, going up to his lodging, I found him dead; which affected me -much, as besides his particular affection and love to me, he was of -incomparable parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very -great loss to the whole church. He was buried the next day with all our -church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying the corpse. - -17th November, 1651. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. Gardner, -maid of honor, lately married to that odd person, Sir Henry Wood: but -riches do many things. - -To see Monsieur Febure's course of chemistry, where I found Sir Kenelm -Digby, and divers curious persons of learning and quality. It was his -first opening the course and preliminaries, in order to operations. - -1st December, 1651. I now resolved to return to England. - -3d December, 1651. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some of -his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold, which, being in -his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by receiving a musket bullet on -them, which deadened its violence, so that it went no further; but made -such a stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one another, -battering and bending several of them; the bullet itself was flatted, and -retained on it the color of the gold. He assured us that of a hundred of -them, which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without -some blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Neapolitan -Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses into France, contrary to -the order of the Viceroy, by assistance of some banditti, was the -occasion of a difference between those great men, and consequently of the -late civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the Prince -standing on his defense at his own castle. He told me that the second -time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their -number, and might easily have beaten them; but was betrayed, as were all -other his designs and counsels, by some, even of his bedchamber, meaning -M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters from time to time when his -Majesty was asleep. - -11th December, 1651. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker, of University -College, with his two pupils, the sons of my worthy friend, Henry -Hyldiard, Esq., whom I had recommended to his care. - -21st December, 1651. Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane,[44] the lady who -conveyed the King to the seaside at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John -Cosin, son of the Dean, debauched by the priests, wrote a letter to me -to mediate for him with his father. I prepared for my last journey, being -now resolved to leave France altogether. - - [Footnote 44: Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army - of Charles II. dispersed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted - the King in effecting his escape after that battle, his Majesty - traveling with her disguised as her serving man, William Jackson.] - -25th December, 1651. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first by -themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the long towel all along -the altar. - -26th December, 1651. Came news of the death of that rebel, Ireton. - -31st December, 1651. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated the -Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative of my journey, being -now resolved to leave France altogether, and to return God Almighty -thanks for His gracious protection of me this past year. - -2d January, 1651-52. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, -which exceedingly affected me. - -I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enameling. He -wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a large size, even to the life, -so that nothing could be better molded. He told us stories of a Genoese -jeweler, who had the great ARCANUM, and had made projection before him -several times. He met him at Cyprus traveling into Egypt; in his return -from whence, he died at sea, and the secret with him, that else he had -promised to have left it to him; that all his effects were seized on, and -dissipated by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He also -affirmed, that being in a goldsmith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of very -low stature came in, and desired the goldsmith to melt him a pound of -lead; which done, he unscrewed the pommel of his sword, and taking out of -a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, -poured an ingot out, which when cold he took up, saying, "Sir, you will -be paid for your lead in the crucible," and so went out immediately. When -he was gone the goldsmith found four ounces of good gold in it; but could -never set eye again on the little man, though he sought all the city for -him. Antonio asserted this with great obtestation; nor know I what to -think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell -strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a great rover, and -spoke ten different languages. - -13th January, 1652. I took leave of Mr. Waller, who, having been -proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission to return, was -going to England. - -29th January, 1652. Abundance of my French and English friends and some -Germans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais, in -an exceedingly hard frost which had continued for some time. We got that -night to Beaumont; 30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep -with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; dined at Pois; lay at Pernèe, a -miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly unfurnished, but -in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, which they told me -they hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garrisons near -them continually plundering what they had. They were often infested with -wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw more miserable creatures. - -1st February, 1652. I dined at Abbeville; 2d, dined at Montreuil, lay at -Boulogne; 3d, came to Calais, by eleven in the morning; I thought to have -embarked in the evening, but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, -I dared not trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday following, -when two or three lusty vessels were to depart. - -I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, sometime before made -to resign his Fellowship in King's College, Cambridge, because he would -not take the Covenant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came -miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some relation he had -to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and clad and provided -for him, till he should find some better condition; and he was worthy of -it. There came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir -Timothy Tyrell, of Shotover (near Oxford). - -At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met with Mr. Heath, Sir -Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and divers of our banished friends, of whom -understanding that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in -the town, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by pirates at sea the -year before (my wife having sent it for me in England), as my Lord of -Norwich had informed me at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly -told me that he had such a picture in his own bedchamber among other -ladies, and how he came by it; seeming well pleased that it was his -fortune to preserve it for me, and he generously promised to send it to -any friend I had at Dover; I mentioned a French merchant there and so -took my leave. - -6th February, 1652. I embarked early in the packet boat, but put my goods -in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got not to Dover till eight -at night. I took horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day, to -Gravesend, took a pair of oars, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed -three days to refresh, and look after my packet and goods, sent by a -stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard Fanshawe, and divers -other friends. - -6th March, 1652. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch-rebel, Ireton, -carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westminster, accompanied with -divers regiments of soldiers, horse and foot; then marched the mourners, -General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-men, officers, -and forty poor men in gowns, three led horses in housings of black cloth, -two led in black velvet, and his charging horse, all covered over with -embroidery and gold, on crimson velvet; then the guidons, ensigns, four -heralds, carrying the arms of the State (as they called it), namely, the -red cross and Ireland, with the casque, wreath, sword, spurs, etc.; next, -a chariot canopied of black velvet, and six horses, in which was the -corpse; the pall held up by the mourners on foot; the mace and sword, -with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the plague), -carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a grave pace, drums covered with -cloth, soldiers reversing their arms, they proceeded through the streets -in a very solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel, and had been very -bloody to the King's party, witness his severity at Colchester, when in -cold blood he put to death those gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and -Sir George Lisle. My cousin, R. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and informed -me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his -brother, my Lord Cherbury's book, "_De Veritate_." - -[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] - -9th March, 1652. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my -settlement, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavor a -settled life, either in this or some other place, there being now so -little appearance of any change for the better, all being entirely in -the rebels' hands; and this particular habitation and the estate -contiguous to it (belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his -Majesty's service) very much suffering for want of some friend to rescue -it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve our interest, and -take some care of my other concerns, by the advice and endeavor of my -friends I was advised to reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. -This I was besides authorized by his Majesty to do, and encouraged with a -promise that what was in lease from the Crown, if ever it pleased God to -restore him, he would secure to us in fee farm. I had also addresses and -cyphers, to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad: upon all -which inducements, I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, -having now run about the world, most part out of my own country, near ten -years. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife, whom -as yet I had left at Paris. - -14th March, 1652. I went to Lewisham, where I heard an honest sermon on -1 Cor. ii. 5-7, being the first Sunday I had been at church since my -return, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of -England in a parish pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents -and Fanatics. - -15th March, 1652. I saw the "Diamond" and "Ruby" launched in the Dock at -Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each; Cromwell and his -grandees present, with great acclamations. - -18th March, 1652. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a sequestered -person, came to visit me. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th March, 1652. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London, where we had -a great supper; all the vessels, which were innumerable, were of -porcelain, she having the most ample and richest collection of that -curiosity in England. - -22d March, 1652. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to give him -what directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to -put into some form; but for which he was to remove a mountain overgrown -with huge trees and thicket, with a moat within ten yards of the house. -This my brother immediately attempted, and that without great cost, for -more than a hundred yards south, by digging down the mountain, and -flinging it into a rapid stream; it not only carried away the sand, etc., -but filled up the moat, and leveled that noble area, where now the garden -and fountain is. The first occasion of my brother making this alteration -was my building the little retiring place between the great wood eastward -next the meadow, where, some time after my father's death, I made a -triangular pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock after my coming -out of Flanders. - -29th March, 1652. I heard that excellent prelate, the primate of Ireland -(Jacobus Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on Heb. iv. 16, encouraging of -penitent sinners. - -5th April, 1652. My brother George brought to Sayes Court Cromwell's Act -of Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. - -13th April, 1652. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother -George's wife was delivered of a son. - -I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which some -time since I sent to Dean Cosin's proselyted son; but I did not conceive -it convenient, for fear of displeasing her Majesty, the Queen. - -15th April, 1652. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his library, -which was one of the choicest collections of any private person in -England. - -The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the picture of -my wife from Dunkirk, in a large tin case without any charge. It is of -Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to the knees, -but it has been somewhat spoiled by washing it ignorantly with soapsuds. - -25th April, 1652. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord -Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who -had been thirteen times to the East Indies. - -29th April, 1652. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much -threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarmed the -whole nation that hardly any one would work, nor stir out of their -houses. So ridiculously were they abused by knavish and ignorant -star-gazers. - -We went this afternoon to see the Queen's house at Greenwich, now given -by the rebels to Bulstrode Whitelocke, one of their unhappy counselors, -and keeper of pretended liberties. - -10th May, 1652. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable creature -burning, who had murdered her husband. I went to see some workmanship of -that admirable artist, Reeves, famous for perspective, and turning -curiosities in ivory. - -29th May, 1652. I went to give order about a coach to be made against my -wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I brought out of -Paris. - -30th May, 1652. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my nephew, -George, might be brought up with my young Lord, his son, to whom I was -recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of camleting silk and -grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel -Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who had been my -schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's safe landing, and the goods -she was to bring with her out of France; which he courteously granted, -and did me many other kindnesses, that was a great matter in those days. - -In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a Rabinical sermon. -Here is a fair monument in black marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built -that fair house near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend, Sir -Henry Newton, succeeded him. - -3d June, 1652. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to the Magistrates -and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her landing, and show her all -civility. - -4th June, 1652. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, -after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, which had now been -besieged some time by the Prince of Condé's army in the time of the -rebellion, and after she had been now near twelve years from her own -country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. I -went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late -conflict with the Holland fleet, the two nations being now in war, and -which made sailing very unsafe. - -On Whit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very fair one), and -heard one of the canters, who dismissed the assembly rudely, and without -any blessing. Here I stayed till the 10th with no small impatience, when -I walked over to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port, -which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and public structures, -discovers it to have been formerly a considerable and large city. There -are to be seen vast caves and vaults, walls and towers, ruins of -monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which are some handsome -monuments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the manner of those -in the Temple at London. This place being now all in rubbish, and a few -despicable hovels and cottages only standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, -which formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now forsaken -it. - -[Sidenote: TUNBRIDGE] - -11th June, 1652. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls on the -green, we discovered a vessel which proved to be that in which my wife -was, and which got into the harbor about eight that evening, to my no -small joy. They had been three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, -through which they passed, taken for fishers, which was great good -fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture and other rich plunder, -which I bless God came all safe to land, together with my wife, and my -Lady Browne, her mother, who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed -by having been so long at sea, we set not forth toward home till the -14th, when, hearing the smallpox was very rife in and about London, and -Lady Browne having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them -thither, and stayed in a very sweet place, private and refreshing, and -took the waters myself till the 23d, when I went to prepare for their -reception, leaving them for the present in their little cottage by the -Wells. - -The weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rode -negligently under favor of the shade, till, within three miles of -Bromley, at a place called the Procession Oak, two cutthroats started -out, and striking with long staves at the horse, and taking hold of the -reins, threw me down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep thicket, -some quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob -me, as they soon did. What they got of money, was not considerable, but -they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an onyx, -and a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of value, -and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feet, having before -pulled off my boots; they then set me up against an oak, with most bloody -threats to cut my throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise; for -they should be within hearing, I not being the person they looked for. I -told them that if they had not basely surprised me they should not have -had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride near a -hedge, since, had I been in the midway, they dared not have adventured on -me; at which they cocked their pistols, and told me they had long guns, -too, and were fourteen companions. I begged for my onyx, and told them it -being engraved with my arms would betray them; but nothing prevailed. My -horse's bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which they pulled -off, but let the horse graze, and then turning again bridled him and tied -him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse -was perhaps not taken, because he was marked and cropped on both ears, -and well known on that road. Left in this manner, grievously was I -tormented with flies, ants, and the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I -should get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor -see any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling in the -copse. - -After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to turn palm to palm, -having been tied back to back, and then it was long before I could slip -the cord over my wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, and then soon -unbound my feet, and saddling my horse and roaming a while about, I at -last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the rattling of a cart, -toward which I made, and, by the help of two countrymen, I got back into -the highway. I rode to Colonel Blount's, a great justiciary of the times, -who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, sore as my wrists -and arms were, I went to London, and got 500 tickets printed and -dispersed by an officer of Goldsmiths' Hall, and within two days had -tidings of all I had lost, except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and -some trifles. The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a trifle to a -goldsmith's servant, before the tickets came to the shop, by which means -they escaped; the other ring was bought by a victualer, who brought it -to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket seized the man. I afterward -discharged him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did God deliver me -from these villains, and not only so, but restored what they took, as -twice before he had graciously done, both at sea and land, I mean when I -had been robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a considerable loss at -Amsterdam; for which, and many, many signal preservations, I am extremely -obliged to give thanks to God my Savior. - -25th June, 1652. After a drought of near four months, there fell so -violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man -had seen the like in his age; the hail being in some places four or five -inches about, broke all glass about London, especially at Deptford, and -more at Greenwich. - -29th June, 1652. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the water, till -10th of July. - -We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at Summer hill, near -Tunbridge (now given to that villain, Bradshawe, who condemned the King). -'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park; but has nothing else -extraordinary. - -4th July, 1652. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's chapel at Groomsbridge, -a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and watered. In this house was one -of the French kings[45] kept prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. -Packer's father, in remembrance of King Charles the First's safe return -out of Spain. - - [Footnote 45: The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, - 4 Hen. V., by Richard Waller, then owner of this place. See Hasted's - "Kent," vol. i., p. 431.] - -[Sidenote: PENSHURST] - -9th July, 1652. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, famous -once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation -which was wont to meet there, celebrated by that illustrious person, Sir -Philip Sidney, who there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a -park, is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the marriage of -my old fellow-collegiate, Mr. Robert Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy -Sidney, widow of the Earl of Sunderland. - -One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was accordingly summoned to -appear against him; and, on the 12th, was in Westminster Hall, but not -being bound over, nor willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, -coming only to save a friend's bail; but the bill being found, he was -turned over to the Old Bailey. In the meantime, I received a petition -from the prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer in -Kent. He was charged, with other crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I -heard afterward that, had it not been for his companion, a younger man, -he would probably have killed me. He was afterward charged with some -other crime, but, refusing to plead, was pressed to death. - -23d July, 1652. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit me. - -30th July, 1652. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne] -interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. - -1st August, 1652. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a man skilled in -painting and music, and another rare musician, called Mell. I went to see -his collection of pictures, especially those of Julio Romano, which -surely had been the King's, and an Egyptian figure, etc. There were also -excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, and Tintoretto. Lennier had -been a domestic of Queen Elizabeth, and showed me her head, an intaglio -in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me was -exceedingly like her. - -24th August, 1652. My first child, a son, was born precisely at one -o'clock. - -2d September, 1652. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine, of Eltham, -christened my son by the name of Richard. - -22d September, 1652. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was taken with -scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interred in the -church near Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and -according to the church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it -had not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended an excellent -and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having been so obliging on all -occasions to those who continually frequented her house in Paris, which -was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and -afflicted countrymen, during eleven years' residence there in that -honorable situation. - -25th September, 1652. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the -prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and description of Barclay's -"_Icon Animarum_."[46] - - [Footnote 46: The book here referred to is in the British Museum, - entitled "_Joannis Barclaii Icon Animarum_," and printed at London, - 1614, small 12mo. It is written in Latin, and dedicated to Louis - XIII. of France, for what reason does not appear, the author - speaking of himself as a subject of this country. It mentions the - necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skillful gardener - forms his trees; the different dispositions of men, in different - nations; English, Scotch, and Irish, etc. Chapter second contains a - florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but - does not mention Dr. Mason, or his house.] - -5th November, 1652. To London, to visit some friends, but the insolences -were so great in the streets that I could not return till the next day. - -Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins and -Arteries to the College of Physicians, pretending he would not only read -upon them, but celebrate my curiosity as being the first who caused them -to be completed in that manner, and with that cost; but I was not so -willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the College during -their anatomical lectures; which I did accordingly. - -22d November, 1652. I went to London, where was proposed to me the -promoting that great work (since accomplished by Dr. Walton, Bishop of -Chester), "_Biblia Polyglotta_," by Mr. Pierson, that most learned -divine. - -25th December, 1652. Christmas day, no sermon anywhere, no church being -permitted to be open, so observed it at home. The next day, we went to -Lewisham, where an honest divine preached. - -31st December, 1652. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to -Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past. - -[Sidenote: SAYES COURT] - -1st January, 1652-53. I set apart in preparation for the Blessed -Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my -family in Sayes Court, preaching on John vi. 32, 33, showing the -exceeding benefits of our blessed Savior taking our nature upon him. He -had christened my son and churched my wife in our own house as before -noticed. - -17th January, 1653. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court, -which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one entire field of -100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither holly hedge joining to -the bank of the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding -gardens, walks, groves, inclosures, and plantations there. - -21st January, 1653. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings of -my purchase of Sayes Court. - -30th January, 1653. At our own parish church, a stranger preached. There -was now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and, though -the present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily -preached sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man; which was an -extraordinary felicity in this age. - -1st February, 1653. Old Alexander Rosse (author of "_Virgilius -Evangelizans_," and many other little books) presented me with his book -against Mr. Hobbes's "Leviathan." - -19th February, 1653. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon, wind -west. - -22d February, 1653. Was perfected the sealing, livery, and seisin of my -purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glanville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. -Offley, Co. William Glanville (son to Sergeant Glanville, sometime -Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends -dining with me. I had bargained for £3,200, but I paid £3,500. - -25th March, 1653. Came to see me that rare graver in _taille-douce_, -Monsieur Richett, he was sent by Cardinal Mazarine to make a collection -of pictures. - -11th April, 1653. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where every coach -was made to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence, by the sordid fellow who -had purchased it of the state, as they called it. - -17th May, 1653. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several -hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I suppose, by tampering -with mercury about an experiment in gold. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -29th May, 1653. I went to London, to take my last leave of my honest -friend, Mr. Barton, now dying; it was a great loss to me and to my -affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended his funeral. - -8th June, 1653. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn, the great -traveler, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas Keightly, and a virtuoso, -fastastical Simons, who had the talent of embossing so to the life. - -9th June, 1653. I went to visit my worthy neighbor, Sir Henry Newton [at -Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river, -ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most -noble in the world; so as, had the house running water, it were a -princely seat. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visit me, and -he presented me with a seleniscope. - -19th June, 1653. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh, blessed -day! - -21st June, 1653. My Lady Gerrard, and one Esquire Knight, a very rich -gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited me. - -23d June, 1653. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my collections. - -27th June, 1653. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his _aurum -potabile_, with a letter, showing the way of administering it, and the -stupendous cures it had done at Paris; but, ere it came to me, by what -accident I know not, it was all run out. - -17th August, 1653. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house at Horsley -(formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's[47]), where met me Mr. Oughtred, -the famous mathematician; he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers -rich and aromatic balsams, which a chemist, a scholar of his, had sent -him out of Germany. - - [Footnote 47: Evelyn is here in error: Mr. Hyldiard was of East - Horsley, Sir Walter of West.] - -21st August, 1653. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the parson of -the parish of Wotton where I was born, and who had baptized me, preach -after his very plain way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the -sea, the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. - -22d August, 1653. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the famous inn, -the Red Lion, and to see the hospital, and the monument of Archbishop -Abbot, the founder, who lies buried in the chapel of his endowment. - -28th September, 1653. At Greenwich preached that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, -on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and -threatening the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious -impiety of the age. - -11th October, 1653. My son, John Stansfield, was born, being my second -child, and christened by the name of my mother's father, that name now -quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library, -at Sayes Court, where he afterward churched my wife, I always making use -of him on these occasions, because the parish minister dared not have -officiated according to the form and usage of the Church of England, to -which I always adhered. - -25th October, 1653. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court on -Luke xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust judge, showing why -Almighty God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He -afterward administered to us all the Holy Sacrament. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -28th October, 1653. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw -that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that -she spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk -and discourse was like an impudent woman. - -21st November, 1653. I went to London, to speak with Sir John Evelyn, my -kinsman, about the purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westeram, -which afterward Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law, Leech. - -4th December, 1653. Going this day to our church, I was surprised to see -a tradesman, a mechanic, step up; I was resolved yet to stay and see what -he would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20: "And Benaiah -went down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the time of -snow"; the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult when -God called for shedding of blood, inferring that now the saints were -called to destroy temporal governments; with such feculent stuff; so -dangerous a crisis were things grown to. - -25th December, 1653. Christmas day. No churches, or public assembly. I -was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with my family at -home. - -20th January, 1653-54. Come to see my old acquaintance and the most -incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clark,[48] after his travels. -He was an excellent musician, a discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire -(as I remember). Such music before or since did I never hear, that -instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty; but, in my -judgment, far superior to the lute itself, or whatever speaks with -strings. - - [Footnote 48: See under the year 1688, November.] - -25th January, 1654. Died my son, J. Stansfield, of convulsion fits; -buried at Deptford on the east corner of the church, near his mother's -great-grandfather, and other relatives. - -8th February, 1654. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all custom and -decency, the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the Lord Mayor's, riding in -triumph through the city. - -14th February, 1654. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb; he -was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his -tongue rough like a cat's; a sheep also with six legs, which made use of -five of them to walk; a goose that had four legs, two crops, and as many -vents. - -29th March, 1654. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached in my library on -Matt. xxviii. 6, a resurrection sermon, and after it we all received the -Holy Communion. - -6th April, 1654. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby, Mr. Denham, and -other friends to see me. - -15th April, 1654. I went to London to hear the famous Jeremy Taylor -(since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gregory's (near St. Paul's) on -Matt. vi, 48, concerning evangelical perfection. - -5th May, 1654. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headly, apprentice to a -carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new clothing; he thrived very -well, and became rich. - -8th May, 1654. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook's garden, which was -one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well -furnished, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's -garden; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, -planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances, the -banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and seats were carved _à -l'antique_; some good pictures in the house, especially one of Vandyke's, -being a man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. -Ducie's, who has indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of -the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas Fowler's -aviary, which is a poor business. - -[Illustration: _OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON_ - -_The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution of the -Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain -after Newenham_] - -10th May, 1654. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now the -only place of refreshment about the town for persons of the best quality -to be exceedingly cheated at; Cromwell and his partisans having shut up -and seized on Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual -rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season. - -11th May, 1654. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, -formerly a most ignominious thing, and used only by prostitutes. - -14th May, 1654. There being no such thing as church anniversaries in the -parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whit Sunday. - -15th May, 1654. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the translator of "Juvenal," -to visit me. - -8th June, 1654. My wife and I set out in a coach and four horses, in our -way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire, and other parts, where we -resolved to spend some months. We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and -Chapel of St. George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King -Charles, in the VAULT JUST BEFORE THE ALTAR. The church and workmanship -in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is large in circumference; but -the rooms melancholy, and of ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, -hath, besides its incomparable prospect, a very profound well; and the -terrace toward Eton, with the park, meandering Thames, and sweet meadows, -yield one of the most delightful prospects. That night, we lay at -Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house at Causam [Caversham], now in ruins, -his goodly woods felling by the Rebels. - -9th June, 1654. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately fired, was -now new built. At one end of this town, we saw my Lord Seymour's house, -but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended by windings -for near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. We passed by -Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and river. Thence, to Newbury, a -considerable town, and Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and -castle, this last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. -Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, built _à la -moderne_. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, on -the ascent of hill, flanked with wood, and regarding the river, and so, -at night, to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., uncle to -my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of the week we did nothing but -feast and make good cheer, to welcome my wife. - -27th June, 1654. We all went to see Bath, where I bathed in the cross -bath. Among the rest of the idle diversions of the town, one musician was -famous for acting a changeling, which indeed he personated strangely. - -The _facciáta_ of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical -carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. The town is -entirely built of stone, but the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. -Here, we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who -frequent the place for health, till the 30th, and then went to Bristol, a -city emulating London, not for its large extent, but manner of building, -shops, bridge, traffic, exchange, market-place, etc. The governor showed -us the castle, of no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as -standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for Ireland, and the -Western world. Here I first saw the manner of refining sugar and casting -it into loaves, where we had a collection of eggs fried in the sugar -furnace, together with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared most -stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little distance from the -town, the precipice whereof is equal to anything of that nature I have -seen in the most confragose cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding -between them at an extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for -diamonds, and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also on the side of -this horrid Alp a very romantic seat: and so we returned to Bath in the -evening, and July 1st to Cadenham. - -4th July, 1654. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited -back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a town famous for its -trouts, and the next day arrived at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the -extremity of heat. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -6th July, 1654. I went early to London, and the following day met my wife -and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act. - -8th July, 1654. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the schools; -and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at St. Mary's (according to -custom), and the Prevaricators, their drollery. Then, the Doctors -disputed. We supped at Wadham College. - -9th July, 1654. Dr. French preached at St. Mary's, on Matt. xii. 42, -advising the students the search after true wisdom, not to be had in the -books of philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the -famous Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now -Cromwell's Vice-Chancellor. We dined with Dr. Ward, Mathematical -Professor (since Bishop of Sarum), and at night supped in Baliol College -Hall, where I had once been student and fellow-commoner, and where they -made me extraordinarily welcome. - -10th July, 1654. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear the -several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the whole Act in St. -Mary's, the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the -several Professors, creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, etc., -those ancient ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholly -abolished. Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor among others, performing his Act -incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his -Presbyterian animosities, which he withheld, not even against that -learned and pious divine, Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech -of the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and three in -medicine, which was thought a considerable matter, the times considered. -I dined at one Monsieur Fiat's, a student of Exeter College, and supped -at a magnificent entertainment of Wadham Hall, invited by my dear and -excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (after, Bishop of Chester). - -11th July, 1654. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, though -invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and -theorbos, performed by some ingenious scholars. After dinner, I visited -that miracle of a youth, Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of -Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), bibliothecarius of the -Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He showed us the rarities of -that most famous place, manuscripts, medals, and other curiosities. Among -the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to be -baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding: "and Philip and the Gelding -went down into the water," etc. The original Acts of the Council of Basil -900 years since, with the _bulla_, or leaden affix, which has a silken -cord passing through every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of 800 -years antiquity; the old Ritual _secundum usum Sarum_ exceeding -voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities, the "Proverbs of Solomon," -written in French by a lady, every chapter of a several character, or -hand, the most exquisite imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta, -folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses' hide, extremely -rare; but, what is most illustrious, there were no less than 1,000 MSS. -in nineteen languages, especially Oriental, furnishing that new part of -the library built by Archbishop Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby -and the Earl of Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, they show some -Indian weapons, urns, lamps, etc., but the rarest is the whole Alcoran, -written on one large sheet of calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or -cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as -no printed letter comes near it; also, a roll of magical charms, divers -talismans, and some medals. - -Then, I led my wife into the Convocation House, finely wainscoted; the -Divinity School, and Gothic carved roof; the Physic, or Anatomy School, -adorned with some rarities of natural things; but nothing extraordinary -save the skin of a jackal, a rarely-colored jackatoo, or prodigious large -parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our bumblebee, which -indeed I had not seen before, that I remember. - -12th July, 1654. We went to St. John's, saw the library and the two -skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put together; observable is here -also the store of mathematical instruments, chiefly given by the late -Archbishop Laud, who built here a handsome quadrangle. - -Thence we went to New College, where the chapel was in its ancient garb, -notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the times. Thence, to Christ's -Church, in whose library was shown us an Office of Henry VIII., the -writing, miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing, any -curiosity I had seen of that kind; it was given by their founder, -Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of the cathedral (famous in my time) -I found much abused. The ample hall and column, that spreads its capital -to sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very remarkable. - -Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw the library and chapel, -which was likewise in pontifical order, the altar only I think turned -tablewise, and there was still the double organ, which abominations (as -now esteemed) were almost universally demolished; Mr. Gibbon, that famous -musician, giving us a taste of his skill and talents on that instrument. - -Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant was shown us for a -great wonder. There grew canes, olive trees, rhubarb, but no -extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which, when the -ladies had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings. - -13th July, 1654. We all dined at that most obliging and -universally-curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first -who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles -and palaces, and so ordered them one upon another, as to take the honey -without destroying the bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, -little statues, vanes, etc.; and, he was so abundantly civil, finding me -pleased with them, to present me with one of the hives which he had -empty, and which I afterward had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it -continued many years, and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and -contemplate with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a hollow -statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a long, concealed pipe -that went to its mouth,[49] while one speaks through it at a good -distance. He had, above in his lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, -dials, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical -curiosities, a waywiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic, and -other sections, a balance on a demi-circle; most of them of his own, and -that prodigious young scholar Mr. Christopher Wren, who presented me with -a piece of white marble, which he had stained with a lively red, very -deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural. - - [Footnote 49: Such were the speaking figures long ago exhibited in - Spring Gardens, and in Leicester Fields.] - -Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at -Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired during the wars; and, -passing near the seat of Sir Walter Pye, we came to Cadenham. - -16th July, 1654. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir -John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the House of -Commons; his seat is at Broad Hinton, where he now lived but in the -gate-house, his very fair dwelling house having been burnt by his own -hands, to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, my cousin -William Glanville's eldest son showed me such a lock for a door, that for -its filing, and rare contrivances was a masterpiece, yet made by a -country blacksmith. But, we have seen watches made by another with as -much curiosity as the best of that profession can brag of; and, not many -years after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of ironwork -more exquisitely wrought and polished than in any part of Europe, so as a -door lock of a tolerable price was esteemed a curiosity even among -foreign princes. - -Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 19th, to Sir Edward Baynton's at Spie -Park, a place capable of being made a noble seat; but the humorous old -knight has built a long single house of two low stories on the precipice -of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green in the park. -The house is like a long barn, and has not a window on the prospect side. -After dinner, they went to bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were -made so exceedingly drunk, that in returning home we escaped great -dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all gentlemen's -servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous, and much unbecoming -a knight still less a Christian. - -[Sidenote: SALISBURY] - -20th July, 1654. We proceeded to Salisbury; the cathedral I take to be -the most complete piece of Gothic work in Europe, taken in all its -uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut -out of the quarry; most observable are those in the chapter house. There -are some remarkable monuments, particularly the ancient Bishops, founders -of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marquis of Hertford's, the cloisters -of the palace and garden, and the great mural dial. - -In the afternoon we went to Wilton, a fine house of the Earl of Pembroke, -in which the most observable are the dining room in the modern-built -part toward the garden, richly gilded and painted with story, by De -Crete; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landscapes, by -Pierce; some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best French manner; a -pair of artificial winding stairs of stone, and divers rare pictures. The -garden, heretofore esteemed the noblest in England, is a large handsome -plain, with a grotto and waterworks, which might be made much more -pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and raised; for all -is effected by a mere force. It has a flower garden, not inelegant. But, -after all, that which renders the seat delightful is, its being so near -the downs and noble plains about the country contiguous to it. The -stables are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the -walks of lime trees, with the court and fountain of the stables adorned -with the Cæsars' heads. - -We returned this evening by the plain, and fourteen-mile race, where out -of my lord's hare warren we were entertained with a long course of a hare -for near two miles in sight. Near this, is a _pergola_, or stand, built -to view the sports; and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most -considerable parts of the city. The market place, with most of the -streets, are watered by a quick current and pure stream running through -the middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with a small charge -they might be purged and rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made one -of the sweetest towns, but now the common buildings are despicable, and -the streets dirty. - -22d July, 1654. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle Hungerford's, -called Darnford Magna, situated in a valley under the plain, most sweetly -watered, abounding in trouts caught by spear in the night, when they come -attracted by a light set in the stern of a boat. - -After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the goodly plain, or -rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, verdure, and -innumerable flocks, to be one of the most delightful prospects in nature, -and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of in -romances. - -Now we arrived at Stonehenge, indeed a stupendous monument, appearing at -a distance like a castle; how so many and huge pillars of stone should -have been brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops of -them, in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister or heathen and -more natural temple, is wonderful. The stone is so exceedingly hard, that -all my strength with a hammer could not break a fragment; which hardness -I impute to their so long exposure. To number them exactly is very -difficult, they lie in such variety of postures and confusion, though -they seemed not to exceed 100; we counted only 95. As to their being -brought thither, there being no navigable river near, is by some admired; -but for the stone, there seems to be the same kind about 20 miles -distant, some of which appear above ground. About the same hills, are -divers mounts raised, conceived to be ancient intrenchments, or places of -burial, after bloody fights. We now went by Devizes, a reasonable large -town, and came late to Cadenham. - -27th July, 1654. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excellent chase -for four or five hours, but the venison little worth. - -29th July, 1654. I went to Langford to see my Cousin Stephens. I also saw -Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grandfather to my -wife, and sold by her uncle; both the seat and house very honorable and -well built, much after the modern fashion. - -31st July, 1654. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been long and -nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt -another relation of my wife's; for I indeed made these excursions to show -her the most considerable parts of her native country, who, from her -childhood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my own -curiosity and information. - -[Sidenote: GLOUCESTER] - -About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect from -woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a handsome -city, considerable for the church and monuments. The minster is indeed a -noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through a passage of -twenty-five yards in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose, either -to show the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning -priest, who, standing unseen in a recess in the middle of the chapel, -might hear whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the choir, in -which lies buried King Stephen[50] under a monument of Irish oak, not ill -carved considering the age. The new library is a noble though a private -design. I was likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it. -The Duke's house, the castle works, are now almost quite dismantled; nor -yet without sad thoughts did I see the town, considering how fatal the -siege had been a few years before to our good King. - - [Footnote 50: King Stephen was buried at Faversham. The effigy - Evelyn alluded to is that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.] - -1st August, 1654. We set out toward Worcester, by a way thickly planted -with cider fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a -valley through a steep declivity toward the foot of the great Malvern -Hills; they are said to heal many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, -sore eyes, etc. Ascending a great height above them to the trench -dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all -Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknoch, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, -Shropshire, Warwick, Derbyshires, and many more. We could discern -Tewkesbury, King's road, toward Bristol, etc.; so as I esteem it one of -the goodliest vistas in England. - -2d August, 1654. This evening we arrived at Worcester, the Judges of -Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the town the next -day, we found the Cathedral much ruined by the late wars, otherwise a -noble structure. The town is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly -river Severn running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. - -3d August, 1654. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the castle, the -dwelling house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on -an eminent rock which gives prospect into a most goodly green, a woody -and plentifully watered country; the river running so delightfully under -it, that it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one should meet -with. The gardens are prettily disposed; but might be much improved. Here -they showed us Sir Guy's great two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, -and other relics of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old -town, and hath one church full of ancient monuments. - -Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend, Sir H. Puckering, -at the Abbey, and though a melancholy old seat, yet in a rich soil. - -Hence to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his penances, and died. It -is a squalid den made in the rock, crowned yet with venerable oaks and -looking on a goodly stream, so as, were it improved as it might be, it -were capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place. Near this, -we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, -out of which there are likewise divers other caves cut, and some very -capacious. - -The next place to Coventry. The cross is remarkable for Gothic work and -rich gilding, comparable to any I had ever seen, except that of Cheapside -in London, now demolished. This city has many handsome churches, a -beautiful wall, a fair free school and library to it; the streets full of -great shops, clean and well paved. At going forth the gate, they show us -the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, said to have been killed by Sir Guy, -but which I take to be the chine of a whale. - -[Sidenote: LEICESTER] - -4th August, 1654. Hence, riding through a considerable part of -Leicestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in -the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my wife's uncle. - -7th August, 1654. Went to Uppingham, the shire town of Rutland, pretty -and well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where -most of the rural parishes are but of mud; and the people living as -wretchedly as in the most impoverished parts of France, which they much -resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially -Leicestershire) much in common; the gentry free drinkers. - -9th August, 1654. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and -pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney flues like so many -smiths' forges; however, famous for the tomb of the tyrant, Richard III., -which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink. -Also, here in one of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal -Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poor hospital, near -which a wretch has made him a house out of the ruins of a stately church. -Saw the ruins of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained -at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect to meet -with so far North, especially very good melons. We returned to my -uncle's. - -14th August, 1654. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding -through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of -the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every -nobleman's horse that passes with his lord through the street, unless -redeemed with a certain piece of money. In token of this, are several -gilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seems to have been large -and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old -Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of -Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, -situate on the brow of a hill, built _à la moderne_ near a park walled -in, and a fine wood at the descent. - -Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging to Mr. Heath, son -of the late Lord Chief Justice of that name. Here, after dinner, parting -with the company that conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by -Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a long ridge of -hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for its strenuous -resistance in the late civil war. - -Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison. Next, by Wharton -House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, a handsome seat; then by Home, a -noble place belonging to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous -river Trent, which divides the South from the North of England; and so -lay that night at Nottingham. - -This whole town and county seems to be but one entire rock, as it were, -an exceedingly pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here, I observed divers to -live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in -France. The church is well built on an eminence; there is a fair house of -the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepont's; an ample market place; large -streets, full of crosses; the relics of an ancient castle, hollowed -beneath which are many caverns, especially that of the Scots' King, and -his work while there. - -This place is remarkable for being the place where his Majesty first -erected his standard at the beginning of our late unhappy differences. -The prospects from this city toward the river and meadows are most -delightful. - -15th August, 1654. We passed next through Sherwood Forest, accounted the -most extensive in England. Then, Paplewick, an incomparable vista with -the pretty castle near it. Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey, belonging to -the Lord Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau in France, capable of -being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with brave woods and -streams; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious abbey church. Next, -by Mansfield town; then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, -seated in a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a noble yet -melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and stately building. Next to -Worksop Abbey, almost demolished; the church has a double flat tower -entire, and a pretty gate. The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, and -has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park that affords a -delicate prospect. Tickel, a town and castle, has a very noble prospect. -All these in Nottinghamshire. - -16th August, 1654. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night; it -is a large fair town, famous for great wax lights, and good stockings. - -17th August, 1654. Passed through Pontefract; the castle famous for many -sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death of that unhappy King -murdered in it (Richard II.), was now demolishing by the Rebels; it -stands on a mount, and makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a -house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially Mr. -Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle ruins. We all -alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal spring, which they call -Robin Hood's Well; near it, is a stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink -out of, chained to the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which -we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seat), and -in sight of divers other gentlemen's fair houses. This tract is a goodly, -fertile, well-watered, and wooded country, abounding with pasture and -plenty of provisions. - -[Sidenote: YORK] - -To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a circular form, -watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of considerable burden -on it; over it is a stone bridge emulating that of London, and built on; -the middle arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a wharf -of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very neat. But most -remarkable and worth seeing is St. Peter's Cathedral, which of all the -great churches in England had been best preserved from the fury of the -sacrilegious, by composition with the Rebels when they took the city, -during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a most entire -magnificent piece of Gothic architecture. The screen before the choir is -of stone carved with flowers, running work and statues of the old kings. -Many of the monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in these -days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and Common Prayer Book -covered with crimson velvet, and richly embossed with silver gilt; also a -service for the altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, -plates, chalices, patins, etc., with a gorgeous covering for the altar -and pulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall whereof -rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got up to the tower, -whence we had a prospect toward Durham, and could see Ripon, part of -Lancashire, the famous and fatal Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, -and all the environs of that admirable country. Sir ---- Ingoldsby has -here a large house, gardens, and tennis court; also the King's house and -church near the castle, which was modernly fortified with a palisade and -bastions. The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like London. - -18th August, 1654. We went to Beverley, a large town with two stately -churches, St. John's and St. Mary's, not much inferior to the best of our -cathedrals. Here a very old woman showed us the monuments, and, being -above 100 years of age, spoke the language of Queen Mary's days, in whose -time she was born; she was widow of a sexton who had belonged to the -church a hundred years. - -Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to Hull, situated like -Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick -and earth. It has a good market place and harbor for ships. Famous also -(or rather infamous) is this town for Hotham's refusing entrance to his -Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing. And here ends the south of -Yorkshire. - -[Sidenote: LINCOLN] - -19th August, 1654. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about two -leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed it in a good barge -to Barton, the first town in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh ground -till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, and then -had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury Plain. -Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven, steep, and ragged; -formerly full of good houses, especially churches and abbeys. The Minster -almost comparable to that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, -and having a fair front (herein was interred Queen Eleanora, the loyal -and loving wife who sucked the poison out of her husband's wound); the -abbot founder, with rare carving in the stone; the great bell, or Tom, as -they call it. I went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all -over the country. The soldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses -from the gravestones, so as few inscriptions were left; they told us that -these men went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till -they had rent and torn off some barge loads of metal, not sparing even -the monuments of the dead; so hellish an avarice possessed them: beside -which, they exceedingly ruined the city. - -Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high, comely, middle-aged, -and well-proportioned, who kept a very neat and clean alehouse, and got -most by people's coming to see her on account of her height. - -20th August, 1654. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large -heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a pretty town, so well -situated on the side of a bottom which is large and at a distance -environed with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider it -comparable to most inland places of England; famous is the steeple for -the exceeding height of the shaft, which is of stone. - -About eighteen miles south, we pass by a noble seat, and see Boston at a -distance. Here, we came to a parish of which the parson had tithe ale. - -Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Horninghold, from whence I -set out on this excursion. - -22d August, 1654. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable -sport. - -25th August, 1654. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's, -in Northamptonshire, built _à la moderne_; the garden and stables -agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, and the seat naked: returned that -evening. - -27th August, 1654. Mr. Allington preached an excellent discourse from -Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those bold sermons of the -members warring against the mind, or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied -to the wicked regicides; for which he was ruined. We had no sermon in the -afternoon. - -30th August, 1654. Taking leave of my friends, who had now feasted me -more than a month, I, with my wife, etc., set our faces toward home, and -got this evening to Peterborough, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of -St. John's (one deep in the blood of our good king), built out of the -ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. The church is exceeding fair, -full of monuments of great antiquity. Here lies Queen Catherine, the -unhappy wife of Henry VIII., and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of -Scots. On the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much -inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by many sluices, cuts, -mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions; at which the city -and country about it consisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, -were much displeased. - -Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another well-built church. - -31st August, 1654. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that town, -fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds -in wheat that, when any King of England passes through it, they have a -custom to meet him with a hundred plows. - -[Sidenote: CAMBRIDGE] - -This evening, to Cambridge; and went first to St. John's College, well -built of brick, and library, which I think is the fairest of that -University. One Mr. Benlowes has given it all the ornaments of _pietra -commessa_,[51] whereof a table and one piece of perspective is very fine; -other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old -song-book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There hangs in the -library the picture of John Williams, Archbishop of York, sometime Lord -Keeper, my kinsman, and their great benefactor. - - [Footnote 51: Marble, inlaid of various colors, representing - flowers, birds, etc.] - -Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any -university in Europe; but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ -Church, in Oxford; the hall is ample and of stone, the fountain in the -quadrangle is graceful, the chapel and library fair. There they showed us -the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and -emblem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly relating to -the Swedish; in truth, it seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however -the title may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in -manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities, given by the -Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VIII., and the before-mentioned -Archbishop Williams, when Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well -stored. The Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle -cloistered and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own -chamber. - -Thence to Caius, and afterward to King's College, where I found the -chapel altogether answered expectation, especially the roof, all of -stone, which for the flatness of its laying and carving may, I conceive, -vie with any in Christendom. The contignation of the roof (which I went -upon), weight, and artificial joining of the stones is admirable. The -lights are also very fair. In one aisle lies the famous Dr. Collins, so -celebrated for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roof we could -descry Ely, and the encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to set up -their tents and booths; also Royston, Newmarket, etc., houses belonging -to the King. The library is too narrow. - -Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished. - -Peter-House, formerly under the government of my worthy friend, Dr. -Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough; a pretty neat college, having a -delicate chapel. Next to Sidney, a fine college. - -Catherine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous for the learned -Bishop Andrews, once Master. Emanuel College, that zealous house, where -to the hall they have a parlor for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, -_ab origine_, built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the -library. - -Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy situation. Next -to Christ-College, a very noble erection, especially the modern part, -built without the quadrangle toward the gardens, of exact architecture. - -The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library but mean, though -somewhat improved by the wainscoting and books lately added by the Bishop -Bancroft's library and MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only King -James's Works, being his own gift, and kept very reverently. - -The market place is very ample, and remarkable for old Hobson, the -pleasant carrier's beneficence of a fountain.[52] But the whole town is -situate in a low, dirty, unpleasant place, the streets ill-paved, the air -thick and infected by the fens, nor are its churches, (of which St. -Mary's is the best) anything considerable in compare to Oxford.[53] - - [Footnote 52: A conduit it should rather be called.] - - [Footnote 53: The reader must remember that an Oxford man is - speaking.] - -From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent some time in seeing that -goodly place built by Howard, Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is -a mixed fabric, between antique and modern, but observable for its being -completely finished, and without comparison is one of the stateliest -palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two courts, the first very large, -winged with cloisters. The front had a double entrance; the hall is fair, -but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very large, -as are the cellars, arched with stone, very neat and well disposed; these -offices are joined by a wing out of the way very handsomely. The gallery -is the most cheerful and I think one of the best in England; a fair -dining-room, and the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a pretty -chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well inclosed. It has also a -bowling-alley, a noble well-walled, wooded and watered park, full of fine -_collines_ and ponds: the river glides before the palace, to which is an -avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminished by its being placed -in an obscure bottom. For the rest, is a perfectly uniform structure, and -shows without like a diadem, by the decorations of the cupolas and other -ornaments on the pavilions; instead of rails and balusters, there is a -border of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near -Charing-Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer. - -This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for the -abundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteemed the best of any -foreign country. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d October, 1654. Having dined here, we passed through Bishop Stortford, -a pretty watered town, and so by London, late home to Sayes Court, after -a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refreshment -after my turmoil and building. - -10th October, 1654. To my brother at Wotton, who had been sick. - -14th October, 1654. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where I -met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his -Majesty's chaplains. - -15th October, 1654. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne, and -other gentlemen of my sweet and native country. - -24th October, 1654. The good old parson, Higham, preached at Wotton -Church: a plain preacher, but innocent and honest man. - -23d November, 1654. I went to London, to visit my cousin Fanshawe, and -this day I saw one of the rarest collections of agates, onyxes, and -intaglios, that I had ever seen either at home or abroad, collected by a -conceited old hatmaker in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, -heretofore the great Earl of Leicester's. - -28th November, 1654. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us; -also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer, after the Italian -manner, of any in England; he entertained us with his voice and theorbo. - -30th November, 1654. My birthday, being the 34th year of my age: blessing -God for his providence, I went to London to visit my brother. - -3d December, 1654. Advent Sunday. There being no Office at the church but -extemporary prayers after the Presbyterian way, for now all forms were -prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldom went to -church upon solemn feasts; but, either went to London, where some of the -orthodox sequestered divines did privately use the Common Prayer, -administer sacraments, etc., or else I procured one to officiate in my -house; wherefore, on the 10th, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered minister -of Eltham, preached to my family in my library, and gave us the Holy -Communion. - -25th December, 1654. Christmas day. No public offices in churches, but -penalties on observers, so as I was constrained to celebrate it at home. - -1st January, 1654-55. Having with my family performed the public offices -of the day, and begged a blessing on the year I was now entering, I went -to keep the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, at Woodcot. - -19th January, 1655. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my -third, but second living. Christened on the 26th by the name of John. - -28th January, 1655. A stranger preached from Colossians iii. 2, inciting -our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterward -that this man had been both chaplain and lieutenant to Admiral Penn, -using both swords; whether ordained or not I cannot say; into such times -were we fallen! - -24th February, 1655. I was showed a table clock whose balance was only a -crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires, without being at all fixed, but -rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring concealed from -sight, it was thrown up to the utmost channel again, made with an -imperceptible declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily -entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half giving progress -to the hand that showed the hour, and giving notice by a small bell, so -as in 120 half minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the -ejaculatory spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece -(richly adorned) had been presented by some German prince to our late -king, and was now in the possession of the usurper; valued at £200. - -2d March, 1655. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweler, showed me a most rich -agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having a figure of Cleopatra at the -scroll, her body, hair, mantle, and veil, of the several natural colors. -It was supported by a half Mark Antony, the colors rarely natural, and -the work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several pieces; had -they been all of one stone, it were invaluable. - -18th March, 1655. Went to London, on purpose to hear that excellent -preacher, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17, showing what were the -conditions of obtaining eternal life; also, concerning abatements for -unavoidable infirmities, how cast on the accounts of the cross. On the -31st, I made a visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about some -spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I -beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his -heavenly assistances! - -2d April, 1655. This was the first week, that, my uncle Pretyman being -parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now sojourning -with him in my own house. - -9th April, 1655. I went to see the great ship newly built by the usurper, -Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass guns, and 1,000 tons burden. In the -prow was Oliver on horseback, trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, -Irishman, Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made -out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his insulting -head; the word, GOD WITH US. - -15th April, 1655. I went to London with my family, to celebrate the feast -of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory's; the ruling Powers -conniving at the use of the Liturgy, etc., in the church alone. In the -afternoon, Mr. Pierson (since Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap, -but was disturbed by an alarm of fire, which about this time was very -frequent in the city. - -29th May, 1655. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley. - -17th June, 1655. There was a collection for the persecuted churches and -Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. - -3d July, 1655. I was shown a pretty Terella, described with all the -circles, and showing all the magnetic deviations. - -14th July, 1655. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir -Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr. Seymour. - -1st August, 1655. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles Howard's -amphitheater, garden, or solitary recess, being fifteen acres environed -by a hill. He showed us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. - -[Sidenote: ALBURY] - -10th August, 1655. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to -build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many rare pictures, -particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus, as big as the life, by -Holbein; a Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the skull, -carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered £100; -also Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and -other curiosities. - -21st August, 1655. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Cary, at my Lady -Peterborough's, in an ancient monastery well in repair, but the park much -defaced; the house is nobly furnished. The chimney-piece in the great -chamber, carved in wood, was of Henry VIII., and was taken from a house -of his in Bletchingley. At Ryegate, was now the Archbishop of Armagh, the -learned James Usher, whom I went to visit. He received me exceeding -kindly. In discourse with him, he told me how great the loss of time was -to study much the Eastern languages; that, excepting Hebrew, there was -little fruit to be gathered of exceeding labor; that, besides some -mathematical books, the Arabic itself had little considerable; that the -best text was the Hebrew Bible; that the Septuagint was finished in -seventy days, but full of errors, about which he was then writing; that -St. Hierome's was to be valued next the Hebrew; also that the seventy -translated the Pentateuch only, the rest was finished by others; that the -Italians at present understood but little Greek, and Kircher was a -mountebank; that Mr. Selden's best book was his "Titles of Honor"; that -the church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likelihood -bring in Popery. In conclusion he recommended to me the study of -philology, above all human studies; and so, with his blessing, I took my -leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton. - -27th August, 1655. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural bowers, -cabinets, and shady walks in the box copses: hence we walked to -Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seat, environed with elm trees and -walnuts innumerable, and of which last he told us they received a -considerable revenue. Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with -yew and box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it seeming from -these evergreens to be summer all the winter. - -28th August, 1655. Came that renowned mathematician, Mr. Oughtred, to see -me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. Among -other discourse, he told me he thought water to be the philosopher's -first matter, and that he was well persuaded of the possibility of their -elixir; he believed the sun to be a material fire, the moon a continent, -as appears by the late selenographers; he had strong apprehensions of -some extraordinary event to happen the following year, from the -calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period; and added that it -might possibly be to convert the Jews by our Savior's visible appearance, -or to judge the world; and therefore, his word was, "_Parate in -occursum_"; he said original sin was not met with in the Greek Fathers, -yet he believed the thing; this was from some discourse on Dr. Taylor's -late book, which I had lent him. - -16th September, 1655. Preached at St. Gregory's one Darnel, on Psalm iv. -4, concerning the benefit of self-examination; more learning in SO SHORT -A TIME AS AN HOUR I have seldom heard. - -17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of -Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were -so intolerable that they ate up the rents, etc., surcharged as that -county had been above all others during our unnatural war. - -19th September, 1655. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. -Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill: and, the next day, I visited Sir Henry -Newton at Charlton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady -Beauchamp, daughter to the Lord Capel. - -On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to catechize and instruct -my family, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish churches, so -as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common -points of Christianity; all devotion being now placed in hearing sermons -and discourses of speculative and national things. - -26th September, 1655. I went to see Colonel Blount's subterranean warren, -and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. - -30th September, 1655. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about his -vast design of a mole to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Sayes -Court. - -3d November, 1655. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a -Greek concerning the devastation of Poland by the late incursion of the -Swedes. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -27th November, 1655. To London about Sir Nicholas Crisp's designs. - -I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the former great -Buckingham, but now much ruined through neglect. - -Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib, a public spirited and -ingenious person, who had propagated many useful things and arts. He told -me of the castles which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany -(he himself being a Lithuanian, as I remember), which are furnished with -small ordnance of silver on the battlements, out of which they discharge -excellent perfumes about the rooms, charging them with a little powder to -set them on fire, and disperse the smoke: and in truth no more than need, -for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me of an ink that would -give a dozen copies, moist sheets of paper being pressed on it; and -remain perfect; and a receipt how to take off any print without the least -injury to the original. This gentleman was master of innumerable -curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home that evening by -water; and was afflicted for it with a cold that had almost killed me. - -This day, came forth the Protector's Edict, or Proclamation, prohibiting -all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or teaching any -schools, in which he imitated the apostate, Julian; with the decimation -of all the royal party's revenues throughout England. - -14th December, 1655. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher of -Malmesbury, with whom I had been long acquainted in France. - -Now were the Jews admitted. - -25th December, 1655. There was no more notice taken of Christmas-day in -churches. - -I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral sermon of -Preaching, this being the last day; after which Cromwell's proclamation -was to take place, that none of the Church of England should dare either -to preach, or administer Sacraments, teach schools, etc., on pain of -imprisonment, or exile. So this was the most mournful day that in my life -I had seen, or the Church of England herself, since the Reformation; to -the great rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter.[54] So pathetic was -his discourse, that it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife, -and some of our family, received the Communion, God make me thankful, who -hath hitherto provided for us the food of our souls as well as bodies! -The Lord Jesus pity our distressed Church, and bring back the captivity -of Zion! - - [Footnote 54: The text was 2 Cor. xiii 9. That, however persecution - dealt with the Ministers of God's Word, they were still to pray for - the flock, and wish their perfection, as it was the flock to pray - for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul.--EVELYN'S - NOTE.] - -5th January, 1655-56. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, son to the Earl of -Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's council; Mr. -John Hervey, and John Denham, the poet. - -18th January, 1656. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, but a -mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept me within doors -near a whole month after. - -5th February, 1656. Was shown me a pretty perspective and well -represented in a triangular box, the great Church of Haarlem in Holland, -to be seen through a small hole at one of the corners, and contrived into -a handsome cabinet. It was so rarely done, that all the artists and -painters in town flocked to see and admire it. - -10th February, 1656. I heard Dr. Wilkins preach before the Lord Mayor in -St. Paul's, showing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a -most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and took -great pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant, sacrilegious -commanders and soldiers, who would fain have demolished all places and -persons that pretended to learning. - -11th February, 1656. I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of many years I -had not been, and found it very glorious and well furnished, as far as I -could safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defaced that rare -piece of Henry VII., etc., done on the walls of the King's privy chamber. - -14th February, 1656. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley, of -Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my -fellow-traveler in Italy. - -19th February, 1656. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous -painter of fowls, beasts, and birds. - -4th March, 1656. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear -the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes and -plain ground, with that wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a -young man, yet so perfect and skillful, that there was nothing, however -cross and perplexed, brought to him by our artists, which he did not play -off at sight with ravishing sweetness and improvements, to the -astonishment of our best masters. In sum, he played on the single -instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, -acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this hour -amazed that God should give so great perfection to so young a person. -There were at that time as excellent in their profession as any were -thought to be in Europe, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this -prodigy appeared. I can no longer question the effects we read of in -David's harp to charm evil spirits, or what is said some particular notes -produced in the passions of Alexander, and that King of Denmark. - -12th April, 1656. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Robert Boyle (that excellent -person and great virtuoso), Dr. Taylor, and Dr. Wilkins, dined with me at -Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In -the afternoon, we all went to Colonel Blount's, to see his newly-invented -plows. - -22d April, 1656. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Paston's son, -since Earl of Yarmouth. Afterward, I went to see his Majesty's house at -Eltham, both palace and chapel in miserable ruins, the noble woods and -park destroyed by Rich, the rebel. - -6th May, 1656. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French Sorbonnist, a -proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they fell to dispute on original -sin, in Latin, upon a book newly published by the Doctor, who was much -satisfied with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned -antiquary and herald. Returning, I was shown the three vast volumes of -Father Kircher's, "_Obeliscus Pamphilius_" and "_Ægyptiacus_"; in the -second volume I found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to -him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed it -from the stone itself brought me to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell. - -7th May, 1656. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to propose -Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have Orders, I having -sometime before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England, -her doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some -difficulty; so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the -Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, who was very poor and -in great want; to that necessity were our clergy reduced! In the -afternoon I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the -marriage of my cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine. - -8th May, 1656. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I first -met with Sir P. Neal, famous for his optic glasses. Greatorix, the -mathematical instrument maker, showed me his excellent invention to -quench fire. - -12th May, 1656. Was published my "Essay on Lucretius," with innumerable -errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who undertook the correction of -the press in my absence. Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then -known among us. - -28th May, 1656. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambassador, who -received me with extraordinary courtesy. I found him a judicious, crafty, -and wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the -times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the -observation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and -their private animosities, and little care of the public. - -Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since executed), Lord -Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, the -Marquis took the turtle-doves in the aviary for owls. - -The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, brother to the -Earl of Sunderland, came to see my garden. - -7th July, 1656. I began my journey to see some parts of the northeast of -England; but the weather was so excessively hot and dusty, I shortened my -progress. - -8th July, 1656. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly demolished -by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which were all burned, but -were then repairing. The town is built on a rising ground, having fair -meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to -have been built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Constantine -the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the pinnacle of one of their -wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly -carved. The walls are exceedingly strong, deeply trenched, and filled -with earth. It has six gates, and some watchtowers, and some handsome -churches. But what was shown us as a kind of miracle, at the outside of -the Castle, the wall where Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those -valiant and noble persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the last -siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in cold blood, after -surrendering on articles; having been disappointed of relief from the -Scotch army, which had been defeated with the King at Worcester. The -place was bare of grass for a large space, all the rest of it abounding -with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and factious town, now -swarming with sectaries. Their trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and -baize and says with Spain; it is the only place in England where these -stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters and eringo -root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale. - -Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very fair church, finely -situated, the valley well watered. Here, I met with Dr. Stokes, a young -gentleman, but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing town, as -most are in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. - -Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most pleasant, -well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair churches, many noble -houses, especially the Lord Devereux's; a brave quay, and commodious -harbor, being about seven miles from the main; an ample market place. -Here was born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which -was not finished. - -I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison; a new fanatic -sect, of dangerous principles, who show no respect to any man, -magistrate, or other, and seem a melancholy, proud sort of people, and -exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted twenty days; -but another, endeavoring to do the like, perished on the 10th, when he -would have eaten, but could not. - -10th July, 1656. I returned homeward, passing again through Colchester; -and, by the way, near the ancient town of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built -in a park by Henry VII. and VIII., and given by Queen Elizabeth to the -Earl of Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham, and -since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a fair -old house, built with brick, low, being only of two stories, as the -manner then was; the gate-house better; the court, large and pretty; the -staircase, of extraordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir -Francis Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; the -galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the garden a fair plot, and -the whole seat well accommodated with water; but, above all, I admired -the fair avenue planted with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a -mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and may -be reformed. There is another fair walk of the same at the mall and -wilderness, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace toward the park, -which was well stored with deer and ponds. - -11th July, 1656. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir J. -Winter's project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the sulphur, and -render it sweet. He did it by burning the coals in such earthen pots as -the glass men melt their metal, so firing them without consuming them, -using a bar of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook at one -end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace with other crude -sea-coals under them, may be drawn out of the pots sticking to the iron, -whence they are beaten off in great half-exhausted cinders, which being -rekindled, make a clear, pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their sulphur -and arsenic malignity. What success it may have, time will discover.[55] - - [Footnote 55: Many years ago, Lord Dundonald revived the project, - with the proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar. - Unfortunately he did not profit by it. The coal thus charred is sold - as COKE, a very useful fuel for many purposes.] - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d August, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Sacrament, the -first time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and -conventicle; so sharp was the persecution. The parish churches were -filled with sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics -usurping the pulpits everywhere. Dr. Wild preached in a private house in -Fleet Street, where we had a great meeting of zealous Christians, who -were generally much more devout and religious than in our greatest -prosperity. In the afternoon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, -where I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechize, and so returned to my house. - -20th August, 1656. Was a confused election of Parliament called by the -Usurper. - -7th September, 1656. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbor and -friend, Sir. H. Newton and lady, now going to dwell at Warwick; and Mr. -Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visit me. - -14th September, 1656. Now was old Sir Henry Vane[56] sent to Carisbrook -Castle, in Wight, for a foolish book he published; the pretended -Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and sending many to prison. - - [Footnote 56: Evelyn means the younger Vane. This was "Vane, young - in years, but in sage counsel old," the nobleness and independence - of whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of - posterity, are not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by - Evelyn--his imprisonment by Cromwell, and his judicial murder by - Charles II. The foolish book to which Evelyn refers was an able and - fearless attack on Cromwell's government.] - -2d October, 1656. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens, and Mr. Pierce -(since head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a learned minister of Brington, -in Northamptonshire, and Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. - -2d November, 1656. There was now nothing practical preached, or that -pressed reformation of life, but high and speculative points and strains -that few understood, which left people very ignorant, and of no steady -principles, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much -envy and uncharity in the world; God of his mercy amend it! Now, indeed, -that I went at all to church, while these usurpers possessed the pulpits, -was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that, though the -minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly -ordained, and preached sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an -humble, harmless, and peaceable man. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -25th December, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Communion, -this holy festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so -full an assembly of devout and sober Christians. - -26th December, 1656. I invited some of my neighbors and tenants, -according to custom, and to preserve hospitality and charity. - -28th December, 1656. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which he -made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek and ostentation of -learning, to but little purpose. - -30th December, 1656. Dined with me Sir William Paston's son, Mr. Henshaw, -and Mr. Clayton. - -31st December, 1656. I begged God's blessing and mercies for his goodness -to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs in order. - -1st January, 1656-57. Having prayed with my family, and celebrated the -anniversary, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the year I was -entered into. - -7th January, 1657. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the Duke), -slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner -in the Tower; a most worthy and honored gentleman. - -10th January, 1657. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and -anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins; also the old Marquis of -Argyle, and another Scotch Earl. - -5th February, 1657. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's; he told me the -East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock of £400,000 in -India, and forty-eight men-of-war there: he spoke of their exact and just -keeping their books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could -possibly be lost, or defeated; that it was a vulgar error that the -Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and ammunition for their -money, though engaged in a cruel war, but that they used to merchandise -indifferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their -enemies. He laughed at our Committee of Trade, as composed of men wholly -ignorant of it, and how they were the ruin of commerce, by gratifying -some for private ends. - -10th February, 1657. I went to visit the governor of Havannah, a brave, -sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Captain Young, of Deptford, -when, after twenty years being in the Indies, and amassing great wealth, -his lady and whole family, except two sons, were burned, destroyed, and -taken within sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and wife, -perishing with immense treasure. One son, of about seventeen years old, -with his brother of one year old, were the only ones saved. The young -gentleman, about seventeen, was a well-complexioned youth, not -olive-colored; he spoke Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and -born in the Caraccas, 1,000 miles south of the equinoctial, near the -mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe before. The Governor was -an ancient gentleman of great courage, of the order of St. Jago, sorely -wounded in his arm, and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share -£100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, -and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went with them to Arundel -House, where they dined. They were now going back into Spain, having -obtained their liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude! - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -14th February, 1657. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary; next day came Mr. -Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt), younger son to the Countess of -Peterborough, to see his mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord of -Dover's daughters: so, after dinner, they all departed. - -5th March, 1657. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to me his -version of Gassendi's "_Vita Peiriskii_." - -25th March, 1657. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of "Cases of Conscience," -or "_Ductor Dubitantium_," now fitted for the press. - -The Protector Oliver, now affecting kingship, is petitioned to take the -title on him by all his newly-made sycophant lords, etc.; but dares not, -for fear of the fanatics, not thoroughly purged out of his rebel army. - -21st April, 1657. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in Wales, to see me. -I then waited on my Lord Hatton, with whom I dined: at my return, I -stepped into Bedlam, where I saw several poor, miserable creatures in -chains; one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited the -Charter House, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, now an old, neat, -fresh, solitary college for decayed gentlemen. It has a grove, bowling -green, garden, chapel, and a hall where they eat in common. I likewise -saw Christ Church and Hospital, a very good Gothic building; the hall, -school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up many hundreds of poor -children of both sexes; it is an exemplary charity. There is a large -picture at one end of the hall, representing the governors, founders, and -the institution. - -25th April, 1657. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent -Garden, going to my brother's, but without harm; the Lord be praised! - -1st May, 1657. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house; but I thank -God went away the next day toward Flanders. - -5th May, 1657. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Baynard, in -Surrey, a house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hired. This -is a very fair, noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the -goodliest avenues of oaks up to it that ever I saw: there is a pond of 60 -acres near it; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine painted -glass. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy. - -15th May, 1657. Lawrence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other -of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and -plantations. - -7th June, 1657. My fourth son was born, christened George (after my -grandfather); Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiated in the drawing-room. - -18th June, 1657. At Greenwich I saw a sort of cat[57] brought from the -East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in the -body like a monkey, and so footed; the ears and tail like a cat, only the -tail much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white; -with the tail it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into -trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its hair was woolly -like a lamb; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purred as does the -cat. - - [Footnote 57: This was probably the animal called a Mocock - (_maucaco_), since well known.] - -16th July, 1657. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's recommendation, I went to Eltham, -to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with the -patron. - -6th August, 1657. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed me the -application of the waywiser[58] to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, -and showing them by an index as we went on. It had three circles, one -pointing to the number of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1,000, -with all the subdivisions of quarters; very pretty and useful. - - [Footnote 58: Beckmann, in his "History of Inventions," has written - an account of the different instruments applied to carriages to - measure the distance they pass over. He places the first - introduction of the _adometer_ in England at about the end of the - seventeenth century, instead of about the middle, and states it to - have been the invention of an ingenious artist named Butterfield.] - -10th August, 1657. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against the -folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, called the -FIFTH-MONARCHY-MEN, pretending to set up the kingdom of Christ with the -sword. To this pass was this age arrived when we had no King in Israel. - -21st August, 1657. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the year -was very sickly in the country. - -1st September, 1657. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his melancholy seat -at Camberwell. He has a very pretty grove of oaks, and hedges of yew in -his garden, and a handsome row of tall elms before his court. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -15th September, 1657. Going to London with some company, we stepped in to -see a famous rope-dancer, called THE TURK. I saw even to astonishment the -agility with which he performed. He walked barefooted, taking hold by his -toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touching -it with his hands; he danced blind-fold on the high rope, and with a boy -of twelve years old tied to one of his feet about twenty feet beneath -him, dangling as he danced, yet he moved as nimbly as if it had been but -a feather. Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very high mast, -danced on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew down the -perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and arms -extended, with divers other activities.--I saw the hairy woman, twenty -years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was born at Augsburg, -in Germany. Her very eyebrows were combed upward, and all her _forehead_ -as thick and even as grows on any woman's head, neatly dressed; a very -long lock of hair out of each ear; she had also a most prolix beard, and -_moustachios_, with long locks growing on the middle of her nose, like an -Iceland dog exactly, the color of a bright brown, fine as well-dressed -flax. She was now married, and told me she had one child that was not -hairy, nor were any of her parents, or relations. She was very well -shaped, and played well on the harpsichord. - -17th September, 1657. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a relation -of mine; and thence to John Tradescant's museum, in which the chiefest -rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian, and other -nations' armor, shields, and weapons; some habits of curiously-colored -and wrought feathers, one from the phoenix wing, as tradition goes. -Other innumerable things there were printed in his catalogue by Mr. -Ashmole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeathed, and by -him designed as a gift to Oxford. - -19th October, 1657. I went to see divers gardens about London: returning, -I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian rattlesnakes alive, exceeding a -yard in length, small heads, slender tails, but in the middle nearly the -size of my leg; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as -loud as a child's rattle; this, by the collision of certain gristly skins -curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which they -give warning; a providential caution for other creatures to avoid them. -The Doctor tried their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately -killed: but their vigor must needs be much exhausted here, in another -climate, and kept only in a barrel of bran. - -22d October, 1657. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with whom I -had now contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to the -intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty abroad. - -26th November, 1657. I went to London, to a court of the East India -Company on its new union, in Merchant-Taylors' Hall, where was much -disorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers -obliged only by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might -pursue their private trade; but it was carried against them. Wednesday -was fixed on for a general court for election of officers, after a sermon -and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was £800,000. - -27th November, 1657. I took the oath at the East India House, subscribing -£500. - -2d December, 1657. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preached before -the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by -the example of Nehemiah, all the perfections of a trusty person in -public affairs, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending -with a prayer for God's blessing on the company and the undertaking. - -3d December, 1657. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3, against the -Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity of the sacrament of -baptism. This sect was now wonderfully spread. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -25th December, 1657. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate -Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel, on Micah vii. 2. -Sermon ended, as he was giving us the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was -surrounded with soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised -and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried away. It -fell to my share to be confined to a room in the house, where yet I was -permitted to dine with the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady -Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. In the afternoon, came -Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from Whitehall, to examine us one by -one; some they committed to the marshal, some to prison. When I came -before them, they took my name and abode, examined me why, contrary to -the ordinance made, that none should any longer observe the superstitious -time of the nativity (so esteemed by them), I durst offend, and -particularly be at common prayers, which they told me was but the mass in -English, and particularly pray for Charles Stuart; for which we had no -Scripture. I told them we did not pray for Charles Stuart, but for all -Christian kings, princes, and governors. They replied, in so doing we -prayed for the king of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist, with -other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much threatening; and, -finding no color to detain me, they dismissed me with much pity of my -ignorance. These were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spoke -spiteful things of our Lord's nativity. As we went up to receive the -Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets against us, as if they would -have shot us at the altar; but yet suffering us to finish the office of -Communion, as perhaps not having instructions what to do, in case they -found us in that action. So I got home late the next day; blessed be God! - -27th January, 1657-58. After six fits of a quartan ague, with which it -pleased God to visit him, died my dear son, Richard, to our -inexpressible grief and affliction, five years and three days old only, -but at that tender age a prodigy for wit and understanding; for beauty of -body, a very angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare hopes. -To give only a little taste of them, and thereby glory to God, who "out -of the mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises," -he had learned all his catechism; at two years and a half old, he could -perfectly read any of the English, Latin, French, or Gothic letters, -pronouncing the first three languages exactly. He had, before the fifth -year, or in that year, not only skill to read most written hands, but to -decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the -irregular; learned out "Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire -vocabulary of Latin and French primitives and words, could make congruous -syntax, turn English into Latin, and _vice versâ_, construe and prove -what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, -substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a -considerable progress in Comenius's "_Janua_"; began himself to write -legibly, and had a strong passion for Greek. The number of verses he -could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered of the parts of -plays, which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, -he asked what book it was, and, being told it was comedy, and too -difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious -application of fables and morals; for he had read Æsop; he had a -wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions -of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and -demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing were his applications of -Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God; he had learned all his -catechism early, and understood the historical part of the Bible and New -Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to redeem mankind, and how, -comprehending these necessaries himself, his godfathers were discharged -of their promise. - -These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age and experience, -considering the prettiness of his address and behavior, cannot but leave -impressions in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many days a -Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder; for Christ had said -that man should not live by bread alone, but by the Word of God. He would -of himself select the most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to -read to his maid during his sickness, telling her, when she pitied him, -that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaimed against the -vanities of the world, before he had seen any. Often he would desire -those who came to see him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, -to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully would he -receive admonition! how soon be reconciled! how indifferent, yet -continually cheerful! He would give grave advice to his brother, John, -bear with his impertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard of -or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how it was made; he -brought to us all such difficulties as he found in books, to be -expounded. He had learned by heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek, -which, on occasion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all -prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in anything he said or -did. The last time he had been at church (which was at Greenwich), I -asked him, according to custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two -good things, Father, said he, _bonum gratiæ_ and _bonum gloriæ_, with a -just account of what the preacher said. - -The day before he died, he called to me: and in a more serious manner -than usual, told me that for all I loved him so dearly I should give my -house, land, and all my fine things to his brother Jack, he should have -none of them; and, the next morning, when he found himself ill, and that -I persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he demanded whether he might -pray to God with his hands unjoined; and a little after, while in great -agony, whether he should not offend God by using his holy name so often -calling for ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical -ejaculations uttered of himself: "Sweet Jesus, save me, deliver me, -pardon my sins, let thine angels receive me!" So early knowledge, so much -piety and perfection! But thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for -himself, would not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future -fruits of this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a Child I never saw: -for such a child I bless God, in whose bosom he is! May I and mine -become as this little child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of -God in a white robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus, _fiat -voluntas tua_! Thou gavest him to us, thou hast taken him from us, -blessed be the name of the Lord! That I had anything acceptable to thee -was from thy grace alone, seeing from me he had nothing but sin, but that -thou hast pardoned! blessed be my God for ever, Amen. - -In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and maids that attended -him, and covered him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an -excessive hot fire in a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when -they found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I caused his -body to be coffined in lead, and deposited on the 30th at eight o'clock -that night in the church at Deptford, accompanied with divers of my -relations and neighbors, among whom I distributed rings with this motto: -"_Dominus abstulit_;" intending, God willing, to have him transported -with my own body to be interred in our dormitory in Wotton Church, in my -dear native county of Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with -my fathers, if God be gracious to me, and make me as fit for him as this -blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify this and all other my -afflictions, Amen. - -Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to the -grave. - -15th February, 1658. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it -pleased him also to take away from us this morning my youngest son, -George, now seven weeks languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending -in a dropsy. God's holy will be done! He was buried in Deptford Church, -the 17th following. - -25th February, 1658. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with other -friends, to visit and condole with us. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th March, 1658. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house on Luke -xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed the blessed Communion, of which -I participated. In the afternoon, Dr. Gunning, at Exeter House, -expounding part of the Creed. - -This had been the severest winter that any man alive had known in -England. The crows' feet were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice -inclosed both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boats. - -15th May, 1658, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical sickness, very -mortal this spring. - -20th May, 1658. I went to see a coach race in Hyde Park, and collationed -in Spring Garden. - -23d May, 1658. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached at Covent -Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the kingdom of God was, how pray -for it, etc. - -There was now a collection for persecuted and sequestered Ministers of -the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day! The -Church now in dens and caves of the earth. - -31st May, 1658. I went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose son, Mr. -Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but -by one voice; but that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die -without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they -called it. A dangerous, treacherous time! - -2d June, 1658. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain, the season as -cold as winter, the wind northerly near six months. - -3d June, 1658. A large whale was taken between my land abutting on the -Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by -water, horse, coach, and on foot, from London, and all parts. It appeared -first below Greenwich at low water, for at high water it would have -destroyed all the boats, but lying now in shallow water encompassed with -boats, after a long conflict, it was killed with a harping iron, struck -in the head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tunnels; and -after a horrid groan, it ran quite on shore, and died. Its length was -fifty-eight feet, height sixteen; black skinned, like coach leather; very -small eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a peaked snout and a mouth -so wide, that divers men might have stood upright in it; no teeth, but -sucked the slime only as through a grate of that bone which we call -whalebone; the throat yet so narrow, as would not have admitted the least -of fishes. The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang downward from the -upper jaw, and are hairy toward the ends and bottom within side: all of -it prodigious; but in nothing more wonderful than that an animal of so -great a bulk should be nourished only by slime through those grates. - -8th June, 1658. That excellent preacher and holy man, Dr. Hewer, was -martyred for having intelligence with his Majesty, through the Lord -Marquis of Ormond. - -9th June, 1658. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, -whereof that of the Venetian Senators was one of the best of Titian's and -another of Andrea del Sarto, viz, a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old -Woman; a St. Catherine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Vandyck; a -Nativity of Georgioni; the last of our blessed Kings (Charles I.), and -the Duke of York, by Lely, a Rosary by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, -and several more. This was in Suffolk House: the new front toward the -gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a too massy and clumsy pair -of stairs of stone, without any neat invention. - -10th June, 1658. I went to see the Medical Garden at Westminster, well -stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skillful botanist. - -26th June, 1658. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d July, 1658. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, and Mr. -Ashmole, founder of the Oxford repository of rarities, with divers -doctors of physic and virtuosos. - -15th July, 1658. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir Robert -Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby, of Parham. - -3d August, 1658. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is -excellent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house, -and removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric, though not -comparable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all the -powder mills. - -5th August, 1658. We went to Squirries to visit my Cousin Leech, daughter -to Sir John; a pretty, finely wooded, well watered seat, the stables -good, the house old, but convenient. 6th. Returned to Wotton. - -10th August, 1658. I dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the -famous Sir Walter. - -14th August, 1658. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged match at -bowls for £10, which we won. - -18th August, 1658. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle, in that -tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest trees at Sayes Court, and -did so much mischief all over England. It continued the whole night; -and, till three in the afternoon of the next day, in the southwest, and -destroyed all our winter fruit. - -3d September, 1658. Died that arch-rebel, Oliver Cromwell, called -Protector. - -16th September, 1658. Was published my translation of St. Chrysostom on -"Education of Children," which I dedicated to both my brothers to comfort -them on the loss of their children. - -21st September, 1658. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited me to -dinner. - -26th September, 1658. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv. 24; a -Quaker would have disputed with him. In the afternoon, we heard Dr. -Hacket (since Bishop of Litchfield) at Cheam, where the family of the -Lumleys lie buried. - -27th September, 1658. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews, a -fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the first orange garden -in England, being now overgrown trees, planted in the ground, and secured -in winter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely -watered, lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pomegranates -bear here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence, to Carshalton, -excellently watered, and capable of being made a most delicious seat, -being on the sweet downs, and a champaign about it full planted with -walnut and cherry trees, which afford a considerable rent. - -Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the shepherds, I found that -digging about the bottom near Sir Christopher Buckle's,[59] near -Banstead, divers medals have been found, both copper and silver, with -foundations of houses, urns, etc. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city of -the Romans. See Antonine's "Itineraries." - - [Footnote 59: Not far from the course of the Roman Road from - Chichester, through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking - churchyard. Considerable remains of a Roman building have since been - found on Waltonheath, south of this house.] - -29th September, 1658. I returned home, after a ten weeks' absence. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d October, 1658. I went to London, to receive the Holy Sacrament. - -On the 3d, Dr. Wild preached in a private place on Isaiah i. 4, showing -the parallel between the sins of Israel and those of England. In the -afternoon, Mr. Hall (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor. vi. 2, -of the dignity of the Saints; a most excellent discourse. - -4th October, 1658. I dined with the Holland ambassador, at Derby House: -returning, I diverted to see a very WHITE RAVEN, bred in Cumberland; also -a porcupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, of which see Claudian; -it was headed like a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like -a bear. - -19th October, 1658. I was summoned to London, by the commissioners for -new buildings; afterward, to the commission of sewers; but because there -was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted -without a king, I got to be excused, and returned home. - -22d October, 1658. Saw the superb funeral of the protector. He was -carried from Somerset House in a velvet bed of state, drawn by six -horses, housed with the same; the pall held by his new lords; Oliver -lying in effigy, in royal robes, and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and -globe, like a king. The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers -of the army; the imperial banners, achievements, etc., by the heralds in -their coats; a rich caparisoned horse, embroidered all over with gold; a -knight of honor, armed _cap-a-pie_, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, -and innumerable mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to -Westminster: but it was the most joyful funeral I ever saw; for there -were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a -barbarous noise, drinking and taking tobacco in the streets as they went. - -I returned not home till the 17th of November. - -I was summoned again to London by the commissioners for new foundations -to be erected within such a distance of London. - -6th December, 1658. Now was published my "French Gardener," the first and -best of the kind that introduced the use of the olitory garden to any -purpose. - -23d December, 1658. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my cousin, -George Tuke's, at Cressing Temple, in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood. - -25th December, 1658. Here was no public service, but what we privately -used. I blessed God for his mercies the year past; and 1st of January, -begged a continuance of them. Thus, for three Sundays, by reason of the -incumbent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, though there -was a chapel in the house. - -17th January, 1659. Our old vicar preached, taking leave of the parish in -a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the city. - -24th March, 1659. I went to London, to speak to the patron, Alderman -Cuttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church. - -5th April, 1659. Came the Earl of Northampton and the famous painter, Mr. -Wright, to visit me. - -10th April, 1659. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the living of -our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon preparatory to the Holy -Sacrament. - -25th April, 1659. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of the -public; the new protector, Richard, slighted; several pretenders and -parties strive for the government: all anarchy and confusion; Lord have -mercy on us! - -5th May, 1659. I went to visit my brother in London; and next day, to see -a new opera, after the Italian way, in recitative music and scenes, much -inferior to the Italian composure and magnificence; but it was prodigious -that in a time of such public consternation such a vanity should be kept -up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company, could not decently -resist the going to see it, though my heart smote me for it. - -7th May, 1659. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his lady to visit me, -and stayed the whole afternoon. - -12th May, 1659. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the -revolutions, etc. - -19th May, 1659. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a -Scotch Lord and learned: also my brother and his lady, Lord Berkeley and -his lady, Mrs. Shirley, and the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,[60] and other -friends. - - [Footnote 60: Afterward one of Charles II.'s mistresses.] - -23d May, 1659. I went to Rookwood, and dined with Sir William Hicks, -where was a great feast and much company. It is a melancholy old house, -environed with trees and rooks. - -26th May, 1659. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir William -Ducie, and Sir George Pott's son of Norfolk. - -29th May, 1659. The nation was now in extreme confusion and unsettled, -between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church of England -breathing as it were her last; so sad a face of things had overspread us. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -7th June, 1659. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see the -foundations now laying for a long street and buildings in Hatton Garden, -designed for a little town, lately an ample garden. - -1st September, 1659. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle, son to the Earl -of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philosophic and mathematic college. - -15th September, 1659. Came to see me Mr. Brereton,[61] a very learned -gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. -Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk. - - [Footnote 61: William, afterward third Lord Brereton; an - accomplished and able man, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the - Royal Society. He died in 1679.] - -30th September, 1659. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel -Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveler and water -drinker. - -10th October, 1659. I came with my wife and family to London: took -lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for the -winter, my son being very unwell. - -11th October, 1659. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since -secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty -gentleman. - -The Army now turned out the Parliament. We had now no government in the -nation: all in confusion; no magistrate either owned or pretended; but -the soldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on us, and -settle us! - -17th October, 1659. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel House, who gave me a -fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design of a palace there. - -21st October, 1659. A private fast was kept by the Church of England -Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of his judgments, with -devout prayers for his mercy to our calamitous Church. - -7th November, 1659. Was published my bold "Apology for the King" in this -time of danger, when it was capital to speak or write in favor of him. It -was twice printed; so universally it took. - -9th November, 1659. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity of our -Church. - -12th November, 1659. I went to see the several drugs for the confection -of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an ingenious -apothecary had not only prepared and ranged on a large and very long -table, but covered every ingredient with a sheet of paper, on which was -very lively painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it -plant, flower, animal, or other exotic drug. - -15th November, 1659. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a manner -acknowledge that his nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out of -gratitude, but collaterally as it relates to their gain, or security; and -therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the -banished King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though an -ingenuous confession. - -18th November, 1659. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and preached -on Phil. ii. 12, 13. - -24th November, 1659. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the -forty-first wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. - -26th November, 1659. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers -learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, -and others. - -9th December, 1659. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being our fast day, Dr. -Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild, and other -devout and learned divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note: -Most of them since made bishops. - -10th December, 1659. I treated privately with Colonel Morley, then -Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power, concerning -delivering it to the King, and the bringing of him in, to the great -hazard of my life, but the Colonel had been my schoolfellow, and I knew -would not betray me. - -12th December, 1659. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty, pursuing -the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his brother-in-law, Fay, -Governor of Portsmouth. - -18th December, 1659. Preached that famous divine, Dr. Sanderson (since -Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on Jer. xxx. 13, concerning the -evil of forsaking God. - -29th December, 1659. Came my Lord Count Arundel, of Wardour, to visit me. -I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. - -31st December, 1659. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God -for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year. - -ANNUS MIRABILIS, January 1st, 1659-60. Begging God's blessings for the -following year, I went to Exeter Chapel, when Mr. Gunning began the year -on Galatians iv. 3-7, showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood so -early for us. - -12th January, 1660. Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his -Majesty. - -22d January, 1660. I went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley. After -dinner I discoursed with him; but he was very jealous, and would not -believe that Monk came in to do the King any service; I told him that he -might do it without him, and have all the honor. He was still doubtful, -and would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d February, 1660. Kept the Fast. General Monk came now to London out of -Scotland; but no man knew what he would do or declare; yet he was met on -his way by the gentlemen of all the counties which he passed with -petitions that he would recall the old long-interrupted Parliament, and -settle the nation in some order, being at this time in most prodigious -confusion, and under no government, everybody expecting what would be -next and what he would do. - -10th February, 1660. Now were the gates of the city broken down by -General Monk; which exceedingly exasperated the city, the soldiers -marching up and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the -fanatics put out of their posts and sent out of town. - -11th February, 1660. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and -wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreme power, and -having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission, -repenting of what he had done to the city, and where he and his forces -were quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of robbers, -and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so called as -retaining some few rotten members of the other) being dissolved; and for -joy whereof were many thousands of rumps roasted publicly in the streets -at the bonfires this night, with ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. -This was the first good omen. - -From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed with a kind of -double tertian, the cruel effects of the spleen and other distempers, in -that extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, -were in great doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to deliver me out -of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks: going to church -the 8th, and receiving the blessed eucharist. - -During this sickness came divers of my relations and friends to visit me, -and it retarded my going into the country longer than I intended; -however, I wrote and printed a letter in defense of his Majesty,[62] -against a wicked forged paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels to -defame his Majesty's person and virtues and render him odious, now when -everybody was in hope and expectation of the General and Parliament -recalling him, and establishing the Government on its ancient and right -basis. The doing this toward the decline of my sickness, and sitting up -long in my bed, had caused a small relapse, out of which it yet pleased -God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go into the country, -which I did to my sweet and native air at Wotton. - - [Footnote 62: With the title of "The Late News, or Message from - Brussels Unmasked." This, and the pamphlet which gave rise to it, - are reprinted in "Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings."] - -3d May, 1660. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious -declaration and applications to the Parliament, General, and people, and -their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloody and -unreasonable rebellion of near twenty years. Praised be forever the Lord -of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, because his mercy endureth -forever. - -8th May, 1660. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in London, etc. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -9th May, 1660. I was desired and designed to accompany my Lord Berkeley -with the public address of the Parliament, General, etc., to the King, -and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he being -now at Breda; but I was yet so weak, I could not make that journey by -sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to London to -excuse myself, returning the 10th, having yet received a gracious message -from his Majesty by Major Scot and Colonel Tuke. - -24th May, 1660. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his pardon, -now too late, seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by -which, if he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the -same ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a -post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and fear kept him -from that blessing and honor. I addressed him to Lord Mordaunt, then in -great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of £1,000, as -I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not -undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over to his -Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in his hands! - -29th May, 1660. This day, his Majesty, Charles II. came to London, after -a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and -Church, being seventeen years. This was also his birthday, and with a -triumph of above 20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords, and -shouting with inexpressible joy; the ways strewn with flowers, the bells -ringing, the streets hung with tapestry, fountains running with wine; the -Mayor, Aldermen, and all the companies, in their liveries, chains of -gold, and banners; Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and -velvet; the windows and balconies, all set with ladies; trumpets, music, -and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Rochester, so as they -were seven hours in passing the city, even from two in the afternoon till -nine at night. - -I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God. And all this was -done without one drop of blood shed, and by that very army which rebelled -against him: but it was the Lord's doing, for such a restoration was -never mentioned in any history, ancient or modern, since the return of -the Jews from their Babylonish captivity; nor so joyful a day and so -bright ever seen in this nation, this happening when to expect or effect -it was past all human policy. - -4th June, 1660. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne's landing at -Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which I was to deliver at -Whitehall, not as yet presenting myself to his Majesty, by reason of the -infinite concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, -to see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that he had scarce -leisure to eat for some days, coming as they did from all parts of the -nation; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, -would have none kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of people. - -Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his Majesty, when very -few noblemen were with him, and kissed his hands, being very graciously -received. I then returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came not -till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which time he kept -up in his chapel the Liturgy and Offices of the Church of England, to his -no small honor, and in a time when it was so low, and as many thought -utterly lost, that in various controversies both with Papists and -Sectaries, our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church, -from his chapel and congregation. - -I was all this week to and fro at court about business. - -16th June, 1660. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make -their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pronouncing the -harangue with great eloquence. - -18th June, 1660. I proposed the embassy to Constantinople for Mr. -Henshaw; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in. - -Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the Rebellion were now -daily brought in, and restored upon proclamation; as plate, hangings, -pictures, etc. - -22d June, 1660. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and -chief towns in all the three nations) presented their congratulatory -address. It was carried by my Lord Northampton. - -30th June, 1660. The Sussex gentlemen presented their address, to which -was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his Majesty's hand, who was -pleased to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance, -and speaking very graciously to me. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -3d July, 1660. I went to Hyde Park, where was his Majesty, and abundance -of gallantry. - -4th July, 1660. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the House of Lords, -in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at -Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men, that -suffered in cold blood, after articles of rendition. - -5th July, 1660. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and splendor as -any earthly prince could do to the great city feast, the first they had -invited him to since his return; but the exceeding rain which fell all -that day much eclipsed its lustres. This was at Guildhall, and there was -also all the Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The streets were -adorned with pageants, at immense cost. - -6th July, 1660. His Majesty began first to TOUCH FOR THE EVIL! according -to custom, thus: his Majesty sitting under his state in the banqueting -house, the chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought, or led, up to the -throne, where they kneeling, the King strokes their faces, or cheeks with -both his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain in his formalities -says, "He put his hands upon them, and he healed them." This is said to -every one in particular. When they have all been touched, they come up -again in the same order, and the other chaplain kneeling, and having -angel gold[63] strung on white ribbon on his arm, delivers them one by -one to his Majesty, who puts them about the necks of the touched as they -pass, while the first chaplain repeats, "That is the true light who came -into the world." Then follows, an Epistle (as at first a Gospel) with the -Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration; lastly the blessing; -and then the Lord Chamberlain and the Comptroller of the Household bring -a basin, ewer, and towel, for his Majesty to wash. - - [Footnote 63: Pieces of money, so called from the figure of an angel - on them.] - -The King received a congratulatory address from the city of Cologne, in -Germany, where he had been some time in his exile; his Majesty saying -they were the best people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him -that he ever met with. I recommended Monsieur Messary to be Judge -Advocate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earl of -St. Albans; and saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend, my Lord -Ossory, son to the Marquis of Ormond, after many years' absence returned -home. - -8th July, 1660. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5, concerning -Christian circumspection. From henceforth, was the Liturgy publicly used -in our churches, whence it had been for so many years banished. - -15th July, 1660. Came Sir George Carteret and lady to visit us: he was -now Treasurer of the Navy. - -28th July, 1660. I heard his Majesty's speech in the Lords' House, on -passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage; restoration of my Lord Ormond -to his estate in Ireland; concerning the commission of sewers, and -continuance of the excise. In the afternoon I saluted my old friend, the -Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). He -presented several Irish divines to be promoted as Bishops in that -kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdoms being now almost worn -out, and the Sees vacant. - -31st July, 1660. I went to visit Sir Philip Warwick, now secretary to the -Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. - -19th August, 1660. Our vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles to the -congregation, the national assemblies beginning now to settle, and -wanting instruction. - -23d August, 1660. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish -Lords, to see my garden. - -25th August, 1660. Colonel Spencer, colonel of a regiment of horse in our -county of Kent, sent to me, and intreated that I would take a commission -for a troop of horse, and that I would nominate my lieutenant and -ensigns; I thanked him for the honor intended me; but would by no means -undertake the trouble. - -4th September, 1660. I was invited to an ordination by the Bishop of -Bangor, in Henry VII.'s chapel, Westminster, and afterward saw the -audience of an Envoyée from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his -Majesty's return. - -5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyée of the -King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, etc. - -7th September, 1660. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his -pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence, to Kensington, to -visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that evening. - -13th September, 1660. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, monkeys -and apes dance, and do other feats of activity on the high rope; they -were gallantly clad _á la monde_, went upright, saluted the company, -bowing and pulling off their hats; they saluted one another with as good -a grace as if instructed by a dancing master; they turned heels over head -with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any; also, with lighted -candles in their hands, and on their heads, without extinguishing them, -and with vessels of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian -wench dance, and perform all the tricks on the high rope to admiration; -all the Court went to see her. Likewise, here was a man who took up a -piece of iron cannon of about 400lb. weight with the hair of his head -only. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -17th September, 1660. Went to London, to see the splendid entry of the -Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spain; he was general of -the Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied with divers -great persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train -consisted of seventeen coaches, with six horses of his own, besides a -great number of English, etc. Greater bravery had I never seen. He was -received in the Banqueting House, in exceeding state, all the great -officers of Court attending. - -23d September, 1660. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duke -of Gloucester died of the smallpox, in the prime of youth, and a prince -of extraordinary hopes. - -27th September, 1660. The King received the merchant's addresses in his -closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to keep Jamaica, -choosing Sir Edward Massey Governor. In the afternoon, the Danish -Ambassador's condolences were presented, on the death of the Duke of -Gloucester. This evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince -of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. - -6th October, 1660. I paid the great tax of poll money, levied for -disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire £10, and one -shilling for every servant in my house. - -7th October, 1660. There dined with me a French count, with Sir George -Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queen-Mother, -to break the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. -The Queen would fain have undone it; but it seems matters were -reconciled, on great offers of the Chancellor's to befriend the Queen, -who was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affairs -go through his hands. - -11th October, 1660. The regicides who sat on the life of our late King, -were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before a commission of oyer and -terminer. - -14th October, 1660. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, -were executed. - -17th October, 1660. Scot, Scroop, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of -their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of the place where they put -to death their natural prince, and in the presence of the King his son, -whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their -quarters, mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought from the -gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculous providence of God! - -28th October, 1660. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -29th October, 1660. Going to London, my Lord Mayor's show stopped me in -Cheapside; one of the pageants represented a great wood, with the royal -oak, and history of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. - -31st October, 1660. Arrived now to my fortieth year, I rendered to -Almighty God my due and hearty thanks. - -1st November, 1660. I went with some of my relations to Court, to show -them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of rarities; the rare miniatures of -Peter Oliver, after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I -infinitely esteem; also, that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done -in enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and -intaglios, especially a medallion of Cæsar, as broad as my hand; -likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a landscape of needlework, -formerly presented by the Dutch to King Charles I. Here I saw a vast book -of maps, in a volume near four yards large; a curious ship model; and, -among the clocks, one that showed the rising and setting of the sun in -the zodiac; the sun represented by a face and rays of gold, upon an azure -sky, observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and setting behind a -landscape of hills,--the work of our famous Fromantil,--and several other -rarities. - -3d October, 1660. Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence she had -been banished for almost twenty years; together with her illustrious -daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers princes and noblemen, -accompanying them. - -15th October, 1660. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand. - -20th October, 1660. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller's of the Green -Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the Court diet, and -settling of his Majesty's household. - -23d October, 1660. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess -Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers -of my old friends and acquaintances abroad; his Majesty carrying my wife -to salute the Queen and Princess, and then led her into his closet, and -with his own hands showed her divers curiosities. - -25th October, 1660. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke ii. 14, -of the glory to be given God for all his mercies, especially for -restoring the Church and government; now the service was performed with -music, voices, etc., as formerly. - -27th November, 1660. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green Cloth] -by the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the land at Sayes Court, on -which I had pretense, and to make his report. - -6th December, 1660. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. -Now were presented to his Majesty those two rare pieces of drollery, or -rather a Dutch Kitchen, painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be -distinguished from enamel. I was also shown divers rich jewels and -crystal vases; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian's master; Christ in -the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci; two incomparable heads, by Holbein; the -Queen-Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life; an exquisite -piece of carving; two unicorn's horns, etc. This in the closet. - -13th December, 1660. I presented my son, John, to the Queen-Mother, who -kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. - -14th December, 1660. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of -Ormond, and Countess of Guildford, all of whom we had known abroad in -exile. - -18th December, 1660. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, -grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had -recommended him as secretary. - -21st December, 1660. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the -smallpox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of the whole -Court. - -22d December, 1660. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being now -newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's intimate -acquaintance when she waited on the Princess of Orange; she was now at -her father's, at Worcester House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand, -as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Countess of -Northumberland. This was a strange change--can it succeed well?--I spent -the evening at St. James's, whither the Princess Henrietta was retired -during the fatal sickness of her sister, the Princess of Orange, now come -over to salute the King her brother. The Princess gave my wife an -extraordinary compliment and gracious acceptance, for the "Character"[64] -she had presented her the day before, and which was afterward printed. - - [Footnote 64: "A Character of England," reprinted in Evelyn's - "Miscellaneous Writings," pp. 141-67.] - -25th December, 1660. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, Clerk of his -Majesty's Closet, and my dear friend, now Dean of Westminster, on Luke -ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach made in the public joy by the lamented -death of the Princess. - -30th December, 1660. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the Green -Cloth. - -31st December, 1660. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies to -myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year. - -2d January, 1661. The Queen-Mother, with the Princess Henrietta, began -her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her return into France. - -5th January, 1661. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom I -had been well acquainted abroad. - -6th January, 1661. Dr. Allestree preached at the Abbey, after which four -Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich, ... - -This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some FIFTH-MONARCHY -ENTHUSIASTS. Some of them were examined at the Council the next day; but -could say nothing to extenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal. - -I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for one of the Council), -by suffrage of the rest of the members, a Fellow of the Philosophic -Society now meeting at Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers -learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's return; -but it had been begun some years before at Oxford, and was continued with -interruption here in London during the Rebellion. - -There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some were slain. - -16th January, 1661. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examined -the Torricellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, -and had recommended to me the publishing what I had written of -Chalcography. - -25th January, 1661. After divers years since I had seen any play, I went -to see acted "The Scornful Lady," at a new theater in Lincoln's-Inn -Fields. - -30th January, 1661. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to -deplore the sins which had so long provoked God against this afflicted -church and people, ordered by Parliament to be annually celebrated to -expiate the guilt of the execrable murder of the late King. - -This day (Oh, the stupendous and inscrutable judgments of God!) were the -carcasses of those arch-rebels, Cromwell, Bradshawe (the judge who -condemned his Majesty), and Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged -out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn, and -hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning till six at night, -and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument in a deep pit; -thousands of people who had seen them in all their pride being -spectators. Look back at October 22, 1658,[65] and be astonished! and -fear God and honor the King; but meddle not with them who are given to -change! - - [Footnote 65: The entry in the "Diary" describing the Protector's - funeral.] - -6th February, 1661. To London, to our Society, where I gave notice of the -visit of the Danish Ambassador-Extraordinary, and was ordered to return -him their acceptance of that honor, and to invite him the next meeting -day. - -10th February, 1661. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-house, on Matthew vi. -33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after sermon, the Bishop (Dr. -Wren) gave us the blessing, very pontifically. - -13th February, 1661. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at -Gresham College, where were shown him various experiments in vacuo, and -other curiosities. - -21st February, 1661. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in _mezzo -tinto_. - -26th February, 1661. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at Parson's Green. - -27th February, 1661. Ash Wednesday. Preached before the King the Bishop -of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25, concerning charity and -forgiveness. - -8th March, 1661. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and delivered to him the -state of my concernment at Sayes Court. - -9th March, 1661. I went with that excellent person and philosopher, Sir -Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw divers effects of -the eolipile for weighing air. - -13th March, 1661. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. Browne's pretense to the -Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to which, as having been about -forty years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes -of every Fellow except one; but the statutes of the house being so that, -unless every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, who is -the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomination -to Sir T. Clayton, resident there, and the Physic Professor: for which I -was not at all displeased, because, though Sir Richard missed it by much -ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being no Fellow), yet it -would have hindered Sir Richard from attending at Court to settle his -greater concerns, and so have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined -to have passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at that -time, for many reasons. So I took leave of his Grace, who was formerly -Lord Treasurer in the reign of Charles I. - -This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed me, with his own hands, the new way -of graving, called _mezzo tinto_, which afterward, by his permission, I -published in my "History of Chalcography"; this set so many artists on -work, that they soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to, -emulating the tenderest miniatures. - -Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of Teneriffe, in the -Great Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural -things reported of that island. - -I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for France, as sent by -his Majesty to condole the death of that great Minister and politician, -Count Mazarine. - -29th March, 1661. Dr. Heylin (author of the "Geography") preached at the -Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and charity; he was, I -think, at this time quite dark, and so had been for some years. - -31st March, 1661. This night, his Majesty promised to make my wife Lady -of the Jewels (a very honorable charge) to the future Queen (but which he -never performed). - -1st April, 1661. I dined with that great mathematician and virtuoso, -Monsieur Zulichem, inventor of the pendule clock, and discoverer of the -phenomenon of Saturn's annulus: he was elected into our Society. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th April, 1661. To London, and saw the bathing and rest of the -ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the coronation; it -was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster. I might have received this -honor; but declined it. The rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at -Whitehall, when their swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop -delivered them. - -22d April, 1661. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from the Tower -of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in the Banqueting House create six -Earls, and as many Barons, viz: - -Edward Lord Hyde, Lord Chancellor, Earl of Clarendon; supported by the -Earls of Northumberland and Sussex; the Earl of Bedford carried the cap -and coronet, the Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the -mantle. - - Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex. - Brudenell, Cardigan; - Valentia, Anglesea; - Greenvill, Bath; and - Howard, Earl of Carlisle. - -The Barons were: Denzille Holles; Cornwallis; Booth; Townsend; Cooper; -Crew; who were led up by several Peers, with Garter and officers of arms -before them; when, after obedience on their several approaches to the -throne, their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms, which being -received by the Lord Chamberlain, and delivered to his Majesty, and by -him to the Secretary of State, were read, and then again delivered to his -Majesty, and by him to the several Lords created; they were then robed, -their coronets and collars put on by his Majesty, and they were placed in -rank on both sides of the state and throne; but the Barons put off their -caps and circles, and held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on -their coronets, as cousins to the King. - -I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several archtriumphals -built in the streets at several eminent places through which his Majesty -was next day to pass, some of which, though temporary, and to stand but -one year, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. - -23d April, 1661. Was the coronation of his Majesty Charles II. in the -Abbey-Church of Westminster; at all which ceremony I was present. The -King and his Nobility went to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount -Mordaunt part of the way; this was on Sunday, the 22d; but indeed his -Majesty went not till early this morning, and proceeded from thence to -Westminster in this order: - -First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of the Chamber. -136 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each of whom had two, most -richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Sergeant Porter. Sewers of the -Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery. Clerk of the Signet. -Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of the Council, of the Parliament, and -of the Crown. Chaplains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King's -Advocates and Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the Chancery. -Puisne Sergeants. King's Attorney and Solicitor. King's eldest Sergeant. -Secretaries of the French and Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers. Daily -Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the -body, 4. Masters of standing offices, being no Counsellors, viz, of the -Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, Armory, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. -Chamberlain of the Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord -Chief-Baron. Lord Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. -Lord Chief-Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. -Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the -noblest show of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight -Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the Jewels. Lords of the -Privy Council. Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. -Trumpets. Sergeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons. Two -Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds. Earls. Lord Chamberlain of -the Household. Two Heralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and -Norroy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons -representing the Dukes of Normandy and Acquitaine, viz, Sir Richard -Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastic habits of the time. -Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord Mayor of London. The Duke of York alone -(the rest by twos). Lord High Constable of England. Lord Great -Chamberlain of England. The sword borne by the Earl Marshal of England. -The KING, in royal robes and equipage. Afterward, followed equerries, -footmen, gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse, leading a horse -richly caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain -of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. The troop of Volunteers, with -many other officers and gentlemen. - -This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as embroidery, velvet, cloth -of gold and silver, and jewels, could make them and their prancing -horses, proceeded through the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung -with rich tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies; the London -militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with their banners -and loud music, ranked in their orders; the fountains running wine, bells -ringing, with speeches made at the several triumphal arches; at that of -the Temple Bar (near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by the -Bailiff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a speech. Thence, -with joyful acclamations, his Majesty passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at -night. - -The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westminster Abbey. -When his Majesty was entered, the Dean and Prebendaries brought all the -regalia, and delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the King, -who met them at the west door of the church, singing an anthem, to the -choir. Then, came the Peers, in their robes, and coronets in their hands, -till his Majesty was placed on a throne elevated before the altar. -Afterward, the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury being sick) -went to every side of the throne to present the King to the people, -asking if they would have him for their King, and do him homage; at this, -they shouted four times "God save King Charles II!" Then, an anthem was -sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, went up to the altar, and -he offered a pall and a pound of gold. Afterward, he sat down in another -chair during the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of -Worcester. - -After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to maintain the -religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The hymn _Véni S. Sp._ -followed, and then the Litany by two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of -Canterbury, present, but much indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your -hearts"; at which, the King rose up, and put off his robes and upper -garments, and was in a waistcoat so opened in divers places, that the -Archbishop might commodiously anoint him, first in the palms of his -hands, when an anthem was sung, and a prayer read; then, his breast and -between the shoulders, bending of both arms; and, lastly, on the crown of -the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anointing; this done, -the Dean closed and buttoned up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif -put on, and the cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a super-tunic -of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, spurs, and the -sword; a prayer being first said over it by the Archbishop on the altar, -before it was girt on by the Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, -etc. Then, the Archbishop placed the crown imperial on the altar, prayed -over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, at which all the Peers put on -their coronets. Anthems, and rare music, with lutes, viols, trumpets, -organs, and voices, were then heard, and the Archbishop put a ring on his -Majesty's finger. The King next offered his sword on the altar, which -being redeemed, was drawn, and borne before him. Then, the Archbishop -delivered him the sceptre, with the dove in one hand, and, in the other, -the sceptre with the globe. The King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounced -the blessing. His Majesty then ascending again his royal throne, while -_Te Deum_ was singing, all the Peers did their homage, by every one -touching his crown. The Archbishop, and the rest of the Bishops, first -kissing the King; who received the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet -with the crown imperial on his head, and accompanied with all the -nobility in the former order, he went on foot upon blue cloth, which was -spread and reached from the west door of the Abbey to Westminster stairs, -when he took water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall where was -extraordinary feasting. - -24th April, 1661. I presented his Majesty with his "Panegyric"[66] in the -Privy Chamber, which he was pleased to accept most graciously; I gave -copies to the Lord Chancellor, and most of the noblemen who came to me -for it. I dined at the Marquis of Ormond's where was a magnificent feast, -and many great persons. - - [Footnote 66: A poem which Evelyn had composed on his Majesty's - Coronation; the 23d of April, 1661, being St. George's day.] - -1st May, 1661. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, where was his Majesty -and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being now a -time of universal festivity and joy. - -2d May, 1661. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my title to -Sayes Court. - -3d May, 1661. I went to see the wonderful engine for weaving silk -stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxford scholar forty -years since; and I returned by Fromantil's, the famous clockmaker, to see -some pendules, Monsieur Zulichem being with us. - -This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert Murray, Sir -Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zulichem, and Bull (all of them of our Society, -and excellent mathematicians), to show his Majesty, who was present, -Saturn's annulus, as some thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with his -_balteus_ (as that learned gentleman had published), very near eclipsed -by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis; also, Jupiter and satellites, -through his Majesty's great telescope, drawing thirty-five feet; on which -were divers discourses. - -8th May, 1661. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown on, and -all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the Parliament now newly -chosen (the old one being dissolved); and, that evening, declared in -council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal. - -9th May, 1661. At Sir Robert Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor -of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of several mathematical -subjects. - -11th May, 1661. My wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna she had -copied in miniature from P. Oliver's painting, after Raphael, which she -wrought with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infinitely -pleased with it, and caused it to be placed in his cabinet among his best -paintings. - -13th May, 1661. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of -scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the University in Latin, -Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and extemporary verses, as -wonderfully astonished me in such youths, with such readiness and wit, -some of them not above twelve or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that -what they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain, or do not -improve more considerably when they come to be men, though many of them -do; and no less is to be blamed their odd pronouncing of Latin, so that -out of England none were able to understand, or endure it. The -examinants, or posers, were, Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge; -Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, Oxford; Dr. Pierson; Dr. Allestree, Dean -of Westminster, and any that would. - -14th May, 1661. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me concerning -several particulars relating to our Society, and the planet Saturn, etc., -as he sat at supper in the withdrawing-room to his bedchamber. - -16th May, 1661. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburg, who -continued his feast near nine whole hours, according to the custom of his -country, though there was no great excess of drinking, no man being -obliged to take more than he liked. - -22d May, 1661. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in -divers places in London. Oh, prodigious change! - -29th May, 1661. This was the first anniversary appointed by act of -Parliament to be observed as a day of general thanksgiving for the -miraculous restoration of his Majesty: our vicar preaching on Psalm -cxviii. 24, requiring us to be thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had -cause. - -4th June, 1661. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's surveyor, to take -an account of what grounds I challenged at Sayes Court. - -27th June, 1661. I saw the Portugal ambassador at dinner with his Majesty -in state, where was excellent music. - -2d July, 1661. I went to see the New Spring-Garden, at Lambeth, a -prettily contrived plantation. - -[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] - -19th July, 1661. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the water dock -at Deptford, in which our curator continued half an hour under water; it -was made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable. - -3d August, 1661. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's -household to visit me. - -9th August, 1661. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant and -_humilis_, which contracted with the least touch of the sun through a -burning glass, though it rises and opens only when it shines on it. - -I first saw the famous Queen Pine brought from Barbadoes, and presented -to his Majesty; but the first that were ever seen in England were those -sent to Cromwell four years since. - -I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excelled in clocks -and pendules, especially one that had innumerable motions, and played -nine or ten tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts: -which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. He had -also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice pictures, and -other curiosities. Thence, we went to that famous mountebank, Jo. -Punteus. - -Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his "Discourse of the -Vegetation of Plants"; and Mr. Henshaw, his "History of Saltpeter and -Gunpowder." I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary to -the King, which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic. - -I went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. Prujean, who showed me his -laboratory, his workhouse for turning, and other mechanics; also many -excellent pictures, especially the Magdalen of Caracci; and some -incomparable _paysages_ done in distemper; he played to me likewise on -the _polythore_, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, and -theorbo; by none known in England, nor described by any author, nor used, -but by this skillful and learned Doctor. - -15th August, 1661. I went to Tunbridge-Wells, my wife being there for the -benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greatly admired the -extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certain birch trees -among the rocks. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -13th September, 1661. I presented my "_Fumifugium_"[67] dedicated to his -Majesty, who was pleased that I should publish it by his special -commands, being much gratified with it. - - [Footnote 67: This pamphlet having become scarce, was in 1772 - reprinted in 4to, and is now incorporated in Evelyn's "Miscellaneous - Writings."] - -18th September, 1661. This day was read our petition to his Majesty for -his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a corporation, with -several privileges. - -An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn. - -1st October, 1661. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in one of his -yachts (or pleasure boats), vessels not known among us till the Dutch -East India Company presented that curious piece to the King; being very -excellent sailing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new -pleasure boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of York's; the -wager £100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost -it going, the wind being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There -were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty sometimes -steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat attended. I brake fast this -morning with the King at return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased -to take me and only four more, who were noblemen, with him; but dined in -his yacht, where we all ate together with his Majesty. In this passage he -was pleased to discourse to me about my book inveighing against the -nuisance of the smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by -removing those particulars I mentioned, it might be reformed; commanding -me to prepare a Bill against the next session of Parliament, being, as he -said, resolved to have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of -the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare in England -comparatively to other countries. He then commanded me to draw up the -matter of fact happening at the bloody encounter which then had newly -happened between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the Tower, -contending for precedency, at the reception of the Swedish Ambassador; -giving me orders to consult Sir William Compton, Master of the Ordnance, -to inform me of what he knew of it, and with his favorite, Sir Charles -Berkeley, captain of the Duke's life guard, then present with his troop -and three foot companies; with some other reflections and instructions, -to be prepared with a declaration to take off the reports which went -about of his Majesty's partiality in the affairs, and of his officers' -and spectators' rudeness while the conflict lasted. So I came home that -night, and went next morning to London, where from the officers of the -Tower, Sir William Compton, Sir Charles Berkeley, and others who were -attending at this meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having -collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindication of his -Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and standers-by. - -On Thursday his Majesty sent one of the pages of the back stairs for me -to wait on him with my papers, in his cabinet where was present only Sir -Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty what I -had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page, came in Mr. Secretary -Morice with a large paper, desiring to speak with his Majesty, who told -him he was now very busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some -other time; the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand was of -extraordinary importance. So the King rose up, and, commanding me to -stay, went aside to a corner of the room with the Secretary; after a -while, the Secretary being dispatched, his Majesty returning to me at -the table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of France;[68] this -he read and then bid me proceed from where I left off. This I did till I -had ended all the narrative, to his Majesty's great satisfaction; and, -after I had inserted one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty -instructed me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the -posthouse, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris (the Earl of St. -Alban's), and then at leisure to prepare him a copy, which he would -publish. This I did, and immediately sent my papers to the Secretary of -State, with his Majesty's express command of dispatching them that night -for France. Before I went out of the King's closet, he called me back to -show me some ivory statues, and other curiosities that I had not seen -before. - - [Footnote 68: Henrietta Maria.] - -3d October, 1661. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-room adjoining -the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me came to me from a great crowd of -noblemen standing near the fire, and asked me if I had done; and told me -he feared it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he had -that morning spoken with the French Ambassador, who it seems had -palliated the matter, and was very tame; and therefore directed me where -I should soften a period or two, before it was published (as afterward it -was). This night also he spoke to me to give him a sight of what was -sent, and to bring it to him in his bedchamber; which I did, and received -it again from him at dinner, next day. By Saturday, having finished it -with all his Majesty's notes, the King being gone abroad, I sent the -papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse and a great favorite), and -slipped home, being myself much indisposed and harassed with going about, -and sitting up to write. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th October, 1661. I went to London to visit my Lord of Bristol, having -been with Sir John Denham (his Majesty's surveyor) to consult with him -about the placing of his palace at Greenwich, which I would have had -built between the river and the Queen's house, so as a large square cut -should have let in the Thames like a bay; but Sir John was for setting it -on piles at the very brink of the water, which I did not assent to; and -so came away, knowing Sir John to be a better poet than architect, -though he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) to assist him. - -29th October, 1661. I saw the Lord Mayor pass in his water triumph to -Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature after twenty years. - -2d November, 1661. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord Arlington, to visit -me, and to acquaint me that his Majesty would do me the honor to come and -see my garden; but, it being then late, it was deferred. - -3d November, 1661. One Mr. Breton preached his probation sermon at our -parish church, and indeed made a most excellent discourse on John i. 29, -of God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him -to the patron. - -10th November, 1661. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr. Basire, -that great traveler, or rather French Apostle, who had been planting the -Church of England in divers parts of the Levant and Asia. He showed that -the Church of England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, -and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven; that England was the very land -of Goshen. - -11th November, 1661. I was so idle as to go to see a play called "Love -and Honor." Dined at Arundel House; and that evening discoursed with his -Majesty about shipping, in which he was exceedingly skillful. - -15th November, 1661. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me there -were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that in but one -county; but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they -were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs. - -16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of "Naudæus concerning -Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miserably false printed. - -17th November, 1661. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the "Florentine -Council," and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on -Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return and restoration of the Church and -King. - -20th November, 1661. At the Royal Society, Sir William Petty proposed -divers things for the improvement of shipping; a versatile keel that -should be on hinges and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead. - -24th November, 1661. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me -concerning bees, etc. - -26th November, 1661. I saw "Hamlet, Prince of Denmark" played; but now -the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesty's -being so long abroad. - -28th November, 1661. I dined at Chiffinch's house-warming, in St. James's -Park; he was his Majesty's closet-keeper, and had his new house full of -good pictures, etc. There dined with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape -Verd, who was sent out to negotiate his Majesty's match with the Infanta -of Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned. - -29th November, 1661. I dined at the Countess of Peterborough's and went -that evening to Parson's Green with my Lord Mordaunt, with whom I stayed -that night. - -1st December, 1661. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough, going now to -Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the match with -Portugal. - -3d December, 1661. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly, an -order was made and registered that I should receive their public thanks -for the honorable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society, in -my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of -Naudæus. Too great an honor for a trifle. - -4th December, 1661. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, -concerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed a whole ear -of barley, which worked out at her side. I told him of the KNIFE -SWALLOWED[69] and the pins. - - [Footnote 69: This refers to the Dutchman, _ante_, 28th August, - 1641; and to an extraordinary case contained in a "Miraculous Cure - of the Prussian Swallow Knife, etc., by Dan Lakin, P. C." quarto, - London, 1642, with a woodcut representing the object of the cure and - the size of the knife.] - -I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in the fleet to bring -over our new Queen. - -7th December, 1661. I dined at Arundel House, the day when the great -contest in Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk; -however, it was carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of -Sumptuary Laws, entitled "Tyrannus" [or "The Mode"]. - -14th December, 1661. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one. - -16th December, 1661. I saw a French comedy acted at Whitehall. - -20th December, 1661. The Bishop of Gloucester preached at the Abbey at -the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the Duke of Albemarle. -It was a decent solemnity. There was a silver miter, with episcopal -robes, borne by the herald before the hearse, which was followed by the -Duke his brother, and all the bishops, with divers noblemen. - -23d December, 1661. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar with -extraordinary skill before the Duke. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -1st January, 1661-62. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolery of -the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln's-Inn, where came the King, Duke, -etc. It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock -Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He had his Lord -Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Officers, gloriously -clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was -the young spark who maintained the pageantry. - -6th January, 1662. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty opened -the revels of that night by throwing the dice himself in the privy -chamber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year -before he won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away when -the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, and left them still at passage, -cards, etc. At other tables, both there and at the groom-porter's, -observing the wicked folly and monstrous excess of passion among some -losers; sorry am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess -should be countenanced in a Court, which ought to be an example of virtue -to the rest of the kingdom. - -9th January, 1662. I saw acted "The Third Part of the Siege of Rhodes." -In this acted the fair and famous comedian called Roxalana from the part -she performed; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the -Earl of Oxford's MISS (as at this time they began to call lewd women). It -was in recitative music. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -10th January, 1662. Being called into his Majesty's closet when Mr. -Cooper, the rare limner, was crayoning of the King's face and head, to -make the stamps for the new milled money now contriving, I had the honor -to hold the candle while it was doing, he choosing the night and -candlelight for the better finding out the shadows. During this, his -Majesty discoursed with me on several things relating to painting and -graving. - -11th January, 1662. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent -music performed by the ablest masters, both French and English, on -theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of -the Queen, purposely composed for her chapel. Afterward, my Lord Aubigny -(her Majesty's Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodging, and his -wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities; -especially a kind of artificial glass, or porcelain, adorned with -relievos of paste, hard and beautiful. Lord Aubigny (brother to the Duke -of Lennox) was a person of good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and -effeminacy. - -I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's attorney, a draft of an Act -against the nuisance of the smoke of London, to be reformed by removing -several trades which are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the -King and his people. It was to have been offered to the Parliament, as -his Majesty commanded. - -12th January, 1662. At St. James's chapel preached, or rather harangued, -the famous orator, Monsieur Morus, in French. There were present the -King, Duke, French Ambassador, Lord Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world -of Roman Catholics, drawn thither to hear this eloquent Protestant. - -15th January, 1662. There was a general fast through the whole nation, -and now celebrated in London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this -land. Great rain had fallen without any frost, or seasonable cold, not -only in England, but in Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here -near as warm as at midsummer in some years. - -This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at St. Margaret's. Dr. -Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached on Joshua vii. 12, showing how the -neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of -the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the Tower) was a -main cause of God's punishing a land. He brought in that of the -Gibeonites, as well as Achan and others, concluding with an eulogy of the -Parliament for their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and -vindicating the Church from sacrilege. - -16th January, 1662. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to -visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I returned, when he was -pleased to do me that honor of his own accord, and to stay some time -viewing such things as I had to entertain his curiosity. Afterward he -caused me to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house, and to -sit with him covered at the same table. There were his Highness, the Duke -of Ormond, and several Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds about a -project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which was laid aside -as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this, I accompanied the Duke to -an East India vessel that lay at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of -several curiosities. Among other spirituous drinks, as punch, etc., they -gave us Canary that had been carried to and brought from the Indies, -which was indeed incomparably good. I returned to London with his -Highness. This night was acted before his Majesty "The Widow," a lewd -play. - -18th January, 1662. I came home to be private a little, not at all -affecting the life and hurry of Court. - -24th January, 1662. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions of -building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolishing the old one; on -which I declared my thoughts. - -25th January, 1662. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that -corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford. - -3d February, 1662. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur Gorges' house. - -11th February, 1662. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York at -the Cockpit. The King was not at it. - -17th February, 1662. I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house at -Wimbledon, newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to help contrive the garden -after the modern. It is a delicious place for prospect and the thickets, -but the soil cold and weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sir Henry -Bennett. - -This night was buried in Westminster Abbey the Queen of Bohemia, after -all her sorrows and afflictions being come to die in the arms of her -nephew, the King; also this night and the next day fell such a storm of -hail, thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any man's -memory, especially the tempest of wind, being southwest, which subverted, -besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimneys (among others that -of my parlor at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and sea, that -several perished on both. Divers lamentable fires were also kindled at -this time; so exceedingly was God's hand against this ungrateful and -vicious nation and Court. - -20th February, 1662. I returned home to repair my house, miserably -shattered by the late tempest. - -24th March, 1662. I returned home with my whole family, which had been -most part of the winter, since October, at London, in lodgings near the -Abbey of Westminster. - -6th April, 1662. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we ordered that -the communion-table should be set (as usual) altar-wise, with a decent -rail in front, as before the Rebellion. - -17th April, 1662. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father was -executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seemed a man of parts. - -7th May, 1662. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly where were tried -several experiments in Mr. Boyle's VACUUM. A man thrusting in his arm, -upon exhaustion of the air, had his flesh immediately swelled so as the -blood was near bursting the veins: he drawing it out, we found it all -speckled. - -14th May, 1662. To London, being chosen one of the Commissioners for -reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and regulating -the hackney coaches in the city of London, taking my oath before my Lord -Chancellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's office, in Scotland -Yard, about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till the 16th, -when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made more passable -into the Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this -commission. - -25th May, 1662. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey -to Hampton Court, to see the Queen; who, having landed at Portsmouth, had -been married to the King a week before by the Bishop of London. - -30th May, 1662. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese ladies in -their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes, their complexions -olivader[70] and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Majesty in the same habit, -her foretop long and turned aside very strangely. She was yet of the -handsomest countenance of all the rest, and, though low of stature, -prettily shaped, languishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her -mouth by sticking a little too far out; for the rest, lovely enough. - - [Footnote 70: Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in - other accounts that Katharine of Braganza's Portuguese Ladies of - Honor, who came over with her, were uncommonly ill-favored, and - disagreeable in their appearance. See Faithorne's curious print of - the Queen in the costume here described.] - -31st May, 1662. I saw the Queen at dinner; the Judges came to compliment -her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of Ormond brought me to kiss her -hand. - -2d June, 1662. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their addresses to the -Queen, presenting her £1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, -and the Guardadamas, or mother of her maids,[71] and the old knight, a -lock of whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on by a -thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his Majesty from the -State of Venice; but it was not comparable for swiftness to our common -wherries, though managed by Venetians. - - [Footnote 71: The Maids of Honor had a mother at least as early as - the reign of Elizabeth. The office is supposed to have been - abolished about the period of the Revolution of 1688.] - -4th June, 1662. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon. - -8th June, 1662. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bedchamber. - -9th June, 1662. I heard the Queen's Portugal music, consisting of pipes, -harps, and very ill voices. - -[Sidenote: HAMPTON COURT] - -Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as capacious as any -Gothic architecture can have made it. There is an incomparable furniture -in it, especially hangings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also -many rare pictures, especially the Cæsarean Triumphs of Andrea Mantegna, -formerly the Duke of Mantua's; of the tapestries, I believe the world can -show nothing nobler of the kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. -The gallery of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, -elks, antelopes, etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery of silver on -crimson velvet, and cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of -Holland when his Majesty returned, and had formerly been given by them to -our King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her -again, was now presented to the King. The great looking-glass and toilet, -of beaten and massive gold, was given by the Queen-Mother. The Queen -brought over with her from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never -before been seen here. The great hall is a most magnificent room. The -chapel roof excellently fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visit the -wardrobe and tents, and other furniture of state. The park, formerly a -flat and naked piece of ground, now planted with sweet rows of lime -trees; and the canal for water now near perfected; also the air-park. In -the garden is a rich and noble fountain, with Sirens, statues, etc., cast -in copper, by Fanelli; but no plenty of water. The cradle-work of horn -beam in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very -observable. There is a parterre which they call Paradise, in which is a -pretty banqueting-house set over a cave, or cellar. All these gardens -might be exceedingly improved, as being too narrow for such a palace. - -10th June, 1662. I returned to London, and presented my "History of -Chalcography" (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society.[72] - - [Footnote 72: See Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings."] - -19 June, 1662. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, soon after he -had procured the Dukedom to be restored. This gentleman had now -compounded a debt of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much -obliged to that great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I -stayed a fortnight. - -2d July, 1662. We hunted and killed a buck in the park, Mr. Howard -inviting most of the gentlemen of the country near him. - -3d July, 1662. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard accompanied -me to see my son John, who had been much brought up among Mr. Howard's -children at Arundel House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the -Catholic religion, I was forced to take him home. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -8th July, 1662. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess of -Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary retinue. - -13th July, 1662. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, where I had -discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbadoes, concerning -divers particulars of that colony. - -28th July, 1662. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen-Mother, now -coming again for England, met with such ill weather as greatly endangered -him. I went to Greenwich, to wait on the Queen, now landed. - -30th July, 1662. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, -and particularly to inquire how the city had disposed of the revenues of -Gresham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no -better improved. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords -of the Council; but little was the progress we could make. - -31st July, 1662. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming buildings -and streets of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St. -James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Haymarket about -Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and -published for the better keeping the streets clean. - -1st August, 1662. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, -Philip,[73] now the Queen's Almoner (all brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, -still in Italy), came with a great train, and dined with me; Mr. H. -Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas, -for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime bred up in -their father's house. - - [Footnote 73: Since Cardinal at Rome. "Evelyn's Note."] - -4th August, 1662. Came to see me the old Countess of Devonshire, with -that excellent and worthy person, my Lord her son, from Roehampton. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -5th August, 1662. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about my -purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, now going Ambassador to -Portugal. - -13th August, 1662. Our Charter being now passed under the broad Seal, -constituting us a corporation under the name of the Royal Society for the -improvement of natural knowledge by experiment, was this day read and was -all that was done this afternoon, being very large. - -14th August, 1662. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord -Mayor and others of the Mercers' Company being summoned, to answer some -complaints of the Professors, grounded on a clause in the will of Sir -Thomas Gresham, the founder. - -This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St. Alban's and many -great ladies and persons, was pleased to honor my poor villa with her -presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and -staid till very late in the evening. - -15th August, 1662. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Clarendon) and -his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were -likewise collationed with us, and were very merry. They had all been our -old acquaintance in exile, and indeed this great person had ever been my -friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too. - -17th August, 1662. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer Book, reformed -and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be read, and the -solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the incumbents of England -under penalty of losing their livings; our vicar read it this morning. - -20th August, 1662. There were strong guards in the city this day, -apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian ministers not -conforming. I dined with the Vice-Chamberlain, and then went to see the -Queen-Mother, who was pleased to give me many thanks for the -entertainment she received at my house, when she recounted to me many -observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. - -21st August, 1662. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council of -the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty's original grant to be -of this Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and -statutes conducible to its establishment and progress, for which we now -set apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord -Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his -Majesty, our founder, nominated our first President. The King gave us the -arms of England to be borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace -of silver gilt, of the same fashion and size as those carried before his -Majesty, to be borne before our president on meeting days. It was brought -by Sir Gilbert Talbot, master of his Majesty's jewel house. - -22d August, 1662. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert Murray, -and then went to consult about a newly modeled ship at Lambeth, the -intention being to reduce that art to as certain a method as any other -part of architecture. - -23d August, 1662. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that -ever floated on the Thames, considering the innumerable boats and -vessels, dressed and adorned with all imaginable pomp, but, above all, -the thrones, arches, pageants, and other representations, stately barges -of the Lord Mayor and companies, with various inventions, music, and -peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore, going to meet and -conduct the new Queen from Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first time -of her coming to town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the Venetian -Bucentoras, etc., on the Ascension, when they go to espouse the Adriatic. -His Majesty and the Queen came in an antique-shaped open vessel, covered -with a state, or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, -supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with flowers, festoons -and garlands. I was in our newly built vessel, sailing among them. - -29th August, 1662. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society went in a -body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty's royal grace in granting -our Charter, and vouchsafing to be himself our founder; when the -President made an eloquent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious -reply and we all kissed his hand. Next day we went in like manner with -our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had much promoted our patent: he -received us with extraordinary favor. In the evening I went to the -Queen-Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. - -1st September, 1662. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went to Durdans, -where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince -Edward, and abundance of noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my -brother of Woodcot, my sister having been delivered of a son a little -before, but who had now been two days dead. - -4th September, 1662. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor and -Aldermen being again summoned, and the improvements of Sir Thomas -Gresham's estate examined. There were present the Bishop of London, the -Lord Chief Justice, and the King's attorney. - -6th September, 1662. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter -King-at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, master of the Mint, and several others. - -17th September, 1662. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society should -be a field argent, with a canton of the arms of England; the supporters -two talbots argent; crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like -arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "_Nullius in verbâ_." It was -presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter -King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their office for it. - -20th September, 1662. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my own -concerns, and afterward accompanied him to Monsieur Febure his chemist -(and who had formerly been my master in Paris), to see his accurate -preparation for the composing Sir Walter Raleigh's rare cordial: he made -a learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each ingredient. - -27th September, 1662. Came to visit me Sir George Saville, grandson to -the learned Sir Henry Saville, who published St. Chrysostom. Sir George -was a witty gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. - -3d October, 1662. I was invited to the College of Physicians, where Dr. -Meret, a learned man and library-keeper, showed me the library, theater -for anatomy, and divers natural curiosities; the statue and epigram under -it of that renowned physician, Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the circulation -of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir William Paddy's and other -pictures of men famous in their faculty. - -Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotchman, who had lived long at Rome, and was -esteemed a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guildhall are of -his hand, and so are some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his -Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astræa, the St. Catherine, and a -chimney-piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my opinion, -is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three -dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch highlander -in his plaid. It is in his Majesty's dining room at Windsor. He had at -his house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of -Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and, above all, -those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates and medals, especially a -Scipio, and a Cæsar's head of gold. - -15th October, 1662. I this day delivered my "Discourse concerning Forest -Trees" to the Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the -Commissioners of his Majesty's Navy, being the first book that was -printed by order of the Society, and by their printer, since it was a -corporation. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -16th October, 1662. I saw "_Volpone_" acted at Court before their -Majesties. - -21st October, 1662. To the Queen-Mother's Court, where her Majesty -related to us divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and -wars in England. - -28th October, 1662. To Court in the evening where the Queen-Mother, the -Queen-Consort, and his Majesty being advertised of some disturbance, -forbore to go to the Lord Mayor's show and feast appointed next day, the -new Queen not having yet seen that triumph. - -29th October, 1662. Was my Lord Mayor's show, with a number of sumptuous -pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in a house in Cheapside -against the place prepared for their Majesties. The Prince and heir of -Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also the maids of honor. -I went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with Dr. Basiers, -one of his Majesty's chaplains, the great traveler, who showed me the -syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and -Asian churches to our confession. - -4th November, 1662. I was invited to the wedding of the daughter of Sir -George Carteret (The Treasurer of the Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), -married to Sir Nicholas Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of -London, in the Savoy chapel; after which was an extraordinary feast. - -5th November, 1662. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend the -Statutes, and dined together; afterward meeting at Gresham College, where -was a discourse suggested by me, concerning planting his Majesty's Forest -of Dean with oak, now so much exhausted of the choicest ship timber in -the world. - -20th November, 1662. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard; -afterward saw "The Young Admiral" acted before the King. - -21st November, 1662. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby giving -me great thanks for my "Sylva." - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -27th November, 1662. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian -Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be received with much state, the -Emperor not only having been kind to his Majesty in his distress, but -banishing all commerce with our nation during the Rebellion. - -First, the city companies and trained bands were all in their stations: -his Majesty's army and guards in great order. His Excellency came in a -very rich coach, with some of his chief attendants; many of the rest on -horseback, clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich furs, -caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks, furs, teeth, bows, -etc. It was a very magnificent show. - -I dined with the Master of the Mint, where was old Sir Ralph Freeman;[74] -passing my evening at the Queen-Mother's Court; at night, saw acted "The -Committee," a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic, Lacy, -acted the Irish footman to admiration. - - [Footnote 74: Of Betchworth, in Surrey.] - -30th November, 1662. St. Andrew's day. Invited by the Dean of Westminster -to his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of -Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached in the Abbey Church; then followed the -consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, -etc. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent dinners -that in my life I ever saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here -were the judges, nobility, clergy, and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop -being universally beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was -author of those Characters which go under the name of Blount. He -translated his late Majesty's "Icon" into Latin, was Clerk of his Closet, -Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and yet a most humble, meek, and cheerful -man, an excellent scholar, and rare preacher. I had the honor to be loved -by him. He married me at Paris, during his Majesty's and the Church's -exile. When I took leave of him, he brought me to the cloisters in his -episcopal habit. I then went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that -evening. - -1st December, 1662. Having seen the strange and wonderful dexterity of -the sliders on the new canal in St. James's Park, performed before their -Majesties by divers gentlemen and others with skates, after the manner of -the Hollanders, with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly they stop in -full career upon the ice; I went home by water, but not without exceeding -difficulty, the Thames being frozen, great flakes of ice encompassing our -boat. - -17th December, 1662, I saw acted before the King "The Law against -Lovers."[75] - - [Footnote 75: By Sir William Davenant, a hotch-potch out of "Measure - for Measure" and "Much Ado about Nothing."] - -21st December, 1662. One of his Majesty's chaplains preached; after -which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind music accompanying -the organ, was introduced a concert of twenty-four violins between every -pause, after the French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, -or playhouse, than a church. This was the first time of change, and now -we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ; that instrument -quite left off in which the English were so skillful. I dined at Mr. -Povey's, where I talked with Cromer, a great musician. - -23d December, 1662. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the comedians -con and repeat his new comedy, "The Adventures of Five Hours," a play -whose plot was taken out of the famous Spanish poet, Calderon. - -27th December, 1662. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. - -29th December, 1662. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador, which -was with extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in -vests of several colors, with buskins, after the Eastern manner! their -caps of fur; tunics, richly embroidered with gold and pearls, made a -glorious show. The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting -House, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the Ambassador in a grave -march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson taffeta -scarf before his forehead. The Ambassador then delivered it with a -profound reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of State: it -was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the presents, borne -by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large pieces lined -with sable, black fox, and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of -gold and velvet; hawks, such as they said never came the like; horses -said to be Persian; bows and arrows, etc. These borne by so long a train -rendered it very extraordinary. Wind music played all the while in the -galleries above. This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master -of the ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet, -which cost £200, as I was assured. - -7th January, 1663. At night I saw the ball, in which his Majesty danced -with several great ladies. - -8th January, 1663. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke's, comedy -acted at the Duke's theater, which took so universally, that it was acted -for some weeks every day, and it was believed it would be worth to the -comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff -and formal. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -10th January, 1663. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King, the -Duke, and ladies, in great pomp. - -21st January, 1663. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, of the Household, Sir -Charles Berkeley's, where were the Earl of Oxford, Lord Bellassis, Lord -Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, -and others. - -5th February, 1663. I saw "The Wild Gallant," a comedy;[76] and was at -the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queen, etc., danced. - - [Footnote 76: By Dryden. It was unsuccessful on the first - representation, but was subsequently altered to the form in which it - now appears.] - -6th February, 1663. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir John Robinson, -Lieutenant of the Tower. - -15th February, 1663. This night some villains broke into my house and -study below, and robbed me to the value of £60 in plate, money and -goods:--this being the third time I have been thus plundered. - -26th March, 1663. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a great -case pleaded by his Majesty's counsel; he having built a wall over a -water course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for -the plaintiff.[77] - - [Footnote 77: That is against the King.] - -30th April, 1663. Came his Majesty to honor my poor villa with his -presence, viewing the gardens, and even every room of the house, and was -pleased to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of -Richmond, Earl of St. Alban's, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of -quality. - -14th May, 1663. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to Barnes, -to visit my excellent and ingenious friend, Abraham Cowley. - -17th May, 1663. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I -had been kind, and assisted in his exile; but which he little remembered -in his greatness. - -29th May, 1663. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon at St. -Margaret's, before the House of Commons. - -30th May, 1663. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes Court from the -Crown, for the finishing of which I had been obliged to make such -frequent journeys to London. I returned this evening, having seen the -Russian Ambassador take leave of their Majesties with great solemnity. - -2d July, 1663. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay that night at -Arundel House. - -4th July, 1663. I saw his Majesty's Guards, being of horse and foot -4,000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle, in extraordinary -equipage and gallantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran -soldiers, excellently clad, mounted, and ordered, drawn up in battalia -before their Majesties in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland -trailed a pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot company, commanded -by the Lord Wentworth, his son; a worthy spectacle and example, being -both of them old and valiant soldiers. This was to show the French -Ambassador, Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of coaches, -etc., in the park. - -7th July, 1663. Dined at the Comptroller's; after dinner we met at the -Commission about the streets, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to -make up our accounts to pass the Exchequer. - -16th July, 1663. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. - -Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his daughter, -Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of Scott's Hall, in Kent. This gentleman -was thought to be the son of Prince Rupert. - -2d August, 1663. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and -Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately married son-in-law's, Sir Thomas -Scott, to Scott's Hall. We took barge as far as Gravesend, and thence by -post to Rochester, whence in coach and six horses to Scott's Hall; a -right noble seat, uniformly built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in -a park well stored, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by -the young knight, and in his pretty chapel heard an excellent sermon by -his chaplain. In the afternoon, preached the learned Sir Norton -Knatchbull (who has a noble seat hard by, and a plantation of stately fir -trees). In the churchyard of the parish church I measured an overgrown -yew tree, that was eighteen of my paces in compass, out of some branches -of which, torn off by the winds, were sawed divers goodly planks. - -10th August, 1663. We returned by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise -in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person, and learned critic, -especially in Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's -Royal Navy, and dined at Commissioner Pett's,[78] master-builder there, -who showed me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to -his art. He is esteemed for the most skillful shipbuilder in the world. -He hath a pretty garden and banqueting house, pots, statues, cypresses, -resembling some villas about Rome. After a great feast we rode post to -Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by barge home that -night. - - [Footnote 78: A monument to him in Deptford Church bears a most - pompous inscription: "_Qui fuit patriæ decus, patriæ suæ magnum - munimentum_;" to the effect that he had not only restored our naval - affairs, but he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy - which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful - and safe: he was to be esteemed, indeed, by this invention, the Noah - of his age, which, like another Ark, had snatched from shipwreck our - rights and our dominion of the seas.] - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -18th August, 1663. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where I had -discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of -Winchester, who enjoined me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen -College, Oxford, about a letter sent him by Dr. Goffe, a Romish -Oratorian, concerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book. - -20th August, 1663. I dined at the Comptroller's [of the Household] with -the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham; it was said it should be the last -of the public diets, or tables, at Court, it being determined to put down -the old hospitality, at which was great murmuring, considering his -Majesty's vast revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went to sit -in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the -Tower; in which some small progress was made. - -27th August, 1663. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, Secretary to my Lord -Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other private matters relating -to the revenue. Thence, to the Commissioners of the Mint, particularly -about coinage, and bringing his Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten -shillings for every pound weight of gold. - -31st August, 1663. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon, -Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremony performed at -Lambeth. First, went his Grace's mace bearer, steward, treasurer, -comptroller, all in their gowns, and with white staves; next, the bishops -in their habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches, Dr. -Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, Judge of the -Prerogative Court, with divers advocates in scarlet. After divine service -in the chapel, performed with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr. -Stradling (his Grace's chaplains) said prayers. The Archbishop in a -private room looking into the chapel, the bishops, who were -commissioners, went up to a table placed before the altar, and sat round -it in chairs. Then Dr. Chaworth presented the commission under the broad -seal to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. After -which, the Vicar-General went to the vestry, and brought his Grace into -the chapel, his other officers marching before. He being presented to the -Commissioners, was seated in a great armchair at one end of the table, -when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of Winchester, and -subscribed by all the bishops, and proclamation was three times made at -the chapel door, which was then set open for any to enter, and give their -exceptions; if any they had. This done, we all went to dinner in the -great hall to a mighty feast. There were present all the nobility in -town, the Lord Mayor of London, Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, etc. My Lord -Archbishop did in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to visit -my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went over to London. - -10th September, 1663. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the Navy, where, -sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about books and -authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. - -24th October, 1663. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my son's preceptor: -this gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's -"_Defensio_"; but was not at all infected with his principles, though -brought up by him. - -5th November, 1663. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's chaplain, preached at -Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse concerning obedience to -magistrates, against the pontificians and sectaries. I afterward dined at -Sir Philip Warwick's, where was much company. - -6th November, 1663. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone, off -from being Sheriff of Surrey. - -30th November, 1663. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the -choice of new officers, according to the tenor of our patent and -institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow -wore a St. Andrew's cross of ribbon on the crown of his hat. After the -election we dined together, his Majesty sending us venison. - -16th December, 1663. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at -the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, having three -locks, and in it £100 as a gift. - -18th December, 1663. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty's bedchamber -at Whitehall. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -2d January, 1663-64. To Barn Elms, to see Abraham Cowley after his -sickness; and returned that evening to London. - -4th February, 1664. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's; thence, to Court, -where I had discourse with the King about an invention of glass-grenades, -and several other subjects. - -5th February, 1664. I saw "The Indian Queen" acted, a tragedy well -written,[79] so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had never been -seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. - - [Footnote 79: By Sir Robert Howard and Dryden.] - -16th February, 1664. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and next day -to his Majesty, to whom it was dedicated; also to the Lord Treasurer and -the Lord Chancellor. - -24th February, 1664. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir Samuel -Tuke came to visit me. We went on board Sir William Petty's -double-bottomed vessel, and so to London. - -26th February, 1664. Dined with my Lord Chancellor; and thence to Court, -where I had great thanks for my "Sylva," and long discourse with the King -of divers particulars. - -2d March, 1664. Went to London to distribute some of my books among -friends. - -4th March, 1664. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his -Majesty's great favorite, and Secretary of Scotland; the Earl of Teviot; -my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of the Royal Society; Dr. Wilkins, -Dean of Ripon; Sir Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society. - -This spring I planted the Home field and West field about Sayes Court -with elms, being the same year that the elms were planted by his Majesty -in Greenwich Park. - -9th March, 1664. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about -regulating the Mint; and now it was that the fine new-milled coin, both -of white money and guineas, was established. - -26th March, 1664. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard, now a -month old, yet without any sickness of danger perceivably, being to all -appearance a most likely child; we suspected much the nurse had overlain -him; to our extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one: but God's -will be done. - -29th March, 1664. After evening prayers, was my child buried near the -rest of his brothers--my very dear children. - -27th April, 1664. Saw a facetious comedy, called "Love in a Tub"; and -supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett's. - -3d May, 1664. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his Lady, to visit -us. - -5th May, 1664. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on the water, -in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had a great banquet, returning -late. The occasion was, Sir Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister -to the Secretary of State. - -6th May, 1664. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter's collection of rare -shells, etc. - -8th June, 1664. To our Society, to which his Majesty had sent that -wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dangerous hole in the keel of a -ship in the India sea, which, being broken off with the violence of the -fish, and left in the timber, preserved it from foundering. - -9th June, 1664. Sir Samuel Tuke[80] being this morning married to a lady, -kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the Queen's Lord Almoner, L. -Aubigny in St. James's chapel, solemnized his wedding night at my house -with much company. - - [Footnote 80: A Roman Catholic.] - -22d June, 1664. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collection of -rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to their Order at -Paris, as a present to be reserved in their repository, but brought to -London by the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seen. -The chief things were, rhinoceros's horns; glorious vests, wrought and -embroidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colors, that for -splendor and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approaches it; a -girdle studded with agates and rubies of great value and size; knives, of -so keen an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the metal of our -color, but more pale and livid; fans, like those our ladies use, but much -larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with Chinese -characters; a sort of paper very broad, thin, and fine, like abortive -parchment, and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceedingly -glorious and pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which my -Lord Verulam describes in his "_Nova Atlantis_"; several other sorts of -paper, some written, others printed; prints of landscapes, their idols, -saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to -which they paid devotion; pictures of men and countries, rarely painted -on a sort of gummed calico, transparent as glass; flowers, trees, beasts, -birds, etc., excellently wrought in a kind of sleeve silk, very natural; -divers drugs that our druggists and physicians could make nothing of, -especially one which the Jesuit called _Lac Tigridis_: it looked like a -fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet was a concretion, or coagulation, -of some other matter; several book MSS.; a grammar of the language -written in Spanish; with innumerable other rarities. - -1st July, 1664. Went to see Mr. Povey's elegant house in Lincoln's-Inn -Fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is -indeed excellent, with the vases in imitation of porphyry, and fountains; -the inlaying of his closet; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of -his wine bottles. - -7th July, 1664. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slingsby's -lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. - -14th July, 1664. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, now going -to Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley; thence to Eltham, to see -Sir John Shaw's new house, now building; the place is pleasant, if not -too wet, but the house not well contrived; especially the roof and rooms -too low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should be; the -orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large plantation about it. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -19th July, 1664. To London, to see the event of the lottery which his -Majesty had permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the -Banqueting House, at Whitehall; I gaining only a trifle, as well as did -the King, Queen-Consort, and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots; which -was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who -was, in truth, a mere shark. - -21st July, 1664. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton House, -where his Lordship used me with singular humanity. I went in the -afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to -London. - -28th July, 1664. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichen, Secretary to the -Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare lutinist, with Monsieur -Oudart. - -3d August, 1664. To London; a concert of excellent musicians, especially -one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who invented a mathematical way of -composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but -without much harmony. - -8th August, 1664. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of Lady -Cotton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. - -9th August, 1664. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visit and -comfort my disconsolate brother; and on the 13th saw my friend, Mr. -Charles Howard, at Dipden, near Dorking. - -16th August, 1664. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charlton; -which he purchased of my excellent friend, Sir Henry Newton, now nobly -furnished. - -22d August, 1664. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the funeral -of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitory there, she -being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic discourse, -concluding with an eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It -was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I came back next -day with my wife to London. - -2d September, 1664. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de Zuylichen, Sir -Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the day -with us. - -5th October, 1664. To our Society. There was brought a newly-invented -instrument of music, being a harpsichord with gut-strings, sounding like -a concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of -parchment that rubbed horizontally against the strings. - -6th October, 1664. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. -Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physicians; after which -I was invited by Dr. Alston, the President, to a magnificent feast. - -7th October, 1664. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters -of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholomew's; passing the evening at -Whitehall, with the Queen, etc. - -8th October, 1664. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in -Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as -he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius, the Encyclopedist. - -15th October, 1664. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, where was the Duke of -Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester. After dinner, my Lord -Chancellor and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace -(for he now lived at Worcester-House in the Strand), building at the -upper end of St. James's street, and to project the garden. In the -evening, I presented him with my book on Architecture,[81] as before I -had done to his Majesty and the Queen-Mother. His lordship caused me to -stay with him in his bedchamber, discoursing of several matters very -late, even till he was going into his bed. - - [Footnote 81: "Parallel between Ancient and Modern Architecture, - originally written in French, by Roland Freart, Sieur de Chambray," - and translated by Evelyn. See his "Miscellaneous Writings."] - -17th October, 1664. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury, to Cornbury, -in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and bear him -company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with six horses; dined at -Uxbridge, lay at Wycombe. - -[Sidenote: OXFORD] - -18th October, 1664. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where we beheld -the destruction of that royal seat and park by the late rebels, and -arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house lately built by the Earl of -Denbigh, in the middle of a sweet park, walled with a dry wall. The house -is of excellent freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that is fine, -but never sweats, or casts any damp); it is of ample dimensions, has -goodly cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its close laying. We -designed a handsome chapel that was yet wanting: as Mr. May had the -stables, which indeed are very fair, having set out the walks in the -parks and gardens. The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the ponds very -convenient; the park well stored. - -20th October, 1664. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and -artificial grots and fountains, called Bushell's Wells, at Enstone. This -Bushell had been Secretary to my Lord Verulam. It is an extraordinary -solitude. There he had two mummies; a grot where he lay in a hammock, -like an Indian. Hence, we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of the Lees, -now Sir Henry Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty -bowling-green. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This gentleman's -mother was Countess of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir Walter St. -John. There were some pictures of their ancestors, not ill painted; the -great-grandfather had been Knight of the Garter; there was a picture of a -Pope, and our Savior's head. So we returned to Cornbury. - -24th October, 1664. We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrill's at Shotover. This -gentleman married the daughter and heir of Dr. James Usher, Archbishop of -Armagh, that learned prelate. There is here in the grove a fountain of -the coldest water I ever felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and -other timber is very commendable. We went in the evening to Oxford, lay -at Dr. Hyde's, principal of Magdalen-Hall (related to the Lord -Chancellor), brother to the Lord Chief Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, -who lost his head for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two -days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, the -learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's, and several heads of houses, came -to visit Lord Cornbury (his father being now Chancellor of the -University), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visit Mr. -Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Christopher Wren, -in the tower of the schools, with an inverted tube, or telescope, -observing the discus of the sun for the passing of Mercury that day -before it; but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared; so we -went to see the rarities in the library, where the keepers showed me my -name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medals, and -pictures of the muscular parts of man's body. Thence, to the new theater, -now building at an exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of -Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future, till now being -in St. Mary's Church. The foundation had been newly laid, and the whole -designed by that incomparable genius my worthy friend, Dr. Christopher -Wren, who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in some -particulars. Thence, to see the picture on the wall over the altar of All -Souls, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather in imitation -of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill designed by -the hand of one Fuller; yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems too -full of nakeds for a chapel. - -Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen chapel, which is on -blue cloth in _chiar oscuro_, by one Greenborow, being a _Coena -Domini_, and a "Last Judgment" on the wall by Fuller, as in the other, -but somewhat varied. - -Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were two large locust trees, -and as many platani (plane trees), and some rare plants under the culture -of old Bobart. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -26th October, 1664. We came back to Beaconsfield; next day to London, -where we dined at the Lord Chancellor's, with my Lord Bellasis. - -27th October, 1664. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall, his -Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of -"Architecture," and again for my "_Sylva_" saying they were the best -designed and useful for the matter and subject, the best printed and -designed (meaning the _taille-douces_ of the Parallel of Architecture) -that he had seen. He then caused me to follow him alone to one of the -windows, and asked me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a -crayon; I presented him with both, and then laying it on the -window-stool, he with his own hands designed to me the plot for the -future building of Whitehall, together with the rooms of state, and other -particulars. After this, he talked with me of several matters, asking my -advice, in which I find his Majesty had an extraordinary talent becoming -a magnificent prince. - -The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to take -care of such sick and wounded and prisoners of war, as might be expected -upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war being already -declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased to nominate me -to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz, Sir William -Doily, Knt. and Bart., Sir Thomas Clifford, and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; -with a salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our -care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a -particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power -to constitute officers, physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to -dispose of half of the hospitals through England. After the Council, we -kissed his Majesty's hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor Finch -plead most elegantly for the merchants trading to the Canaries, praying -for a new Charter. - -29th October, 1664. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and land of -the Lord Mayor. I dined at Guildhall at the upper table, placed next to -Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and -the Duke of Buckingham, who sat between Monsieur Comminges, the French -Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl of -Manchester, Lord Chamberlain, and the rest of the great officers of -state. My Lord Mayor came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden -goblet his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to -the Ambassador; we returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and -drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and -rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample -hall. The feast was said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and -came home late. - -31st October, 1664. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I returned -thanks to Almighty God, begging his merciful protection for the year to -come. - -2d November, 1664. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came across the gallery -in Whitehall to give me thanks for my book of "Architecture," which I had -presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve. - -16th November, 1664. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers, and -appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the good Samaritan, with -this motto, "_Fac similiter_." Painters' Hall was lent us to meet in. In -the great room were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been -given to the Company by several of the wardens and masters of the -Company. - -23d November, 1664. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full -assembly of the Royal Society. - -24th November, 1664. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the -conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was -the heads of the speech he made at the reconvention of the Parliament, -which now began. - -2d December, 1664. We delivered the Privy Council's letters to the -Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, that a moiety of the -house should be reserved for such sick and wounded as should from time to -time be sent from the fleet during the war. This being delivered at their -Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, -invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers' Hall. - -[Sidenote: LONDON] - -20th December, 1664. To London, our last sitting, taking order for our -personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain Cocke's (our -treasurer), with that most ingenious gentleman, Matthew Wren, son to the -Bishop of Ely, and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. - -22d December, 1664. I went to the launching of a new ship of two bottoms, -invented by Sir William Petty, on which were various opinions; his -Majesty being present, gave her the name of the "Experiment": so I -returned home, where I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with -me. - -This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at Sayes Court. It was -now exceedingly cold, and a hard, long, frosty season, and the comet was -very visible. - -28th December, 1664. Some of my poor neighbors dined with me, and others -of my tenants, according to my annual custom. - -31st December, 1664. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His -mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of the Holy -Sacrament, which I partook of the next day, after hearing our minister on -the 4th of Galatians, verses 4, 5, of the mystery of our Blessed Savior's -Incarnation. - - - - -Transcriber's Note - - -Page headers in the original text indicated the location of the author. -I have converted these to sidenotes. When the location did not change -over several pages, only one sidenote was used. - -"[)u]" is used in the text to represent "u" with a breve above it. - -"^" is used in the text to represent superscripts. - -"[~C~]" is used to represent a backwards "C" - -Footnotes have been moved below the paragraph to which they relate. - -Inconsistencies have been retained in spelling, hyphenation, -punctuation, and grammar, except where indicated in the list -below: - - - Comma removed after "King" on Page xxii - - Comma removed after "ARTIBUS" and word was moved to the start of - following line on Page 17 - - "extrordinary" changed to "extraordinary" on Page 22 - - Period changed to comma after "considerable" on Page 50 - - Colon changed to semicolon after "good" on Page 57 - - "Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno" on Page 60 - - "ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" on Page 60 - - Period added after "capital" on Page 66 - - Comma changed to a period added after "head" on Page 68 - - Comma added after "churches" on Page 70 - - Period added after "Paris" on Page 73 - - Period changed to a colon after after "vetustiss" on Page 98 - - "qu" changed to "qui" on Page 99 - - "suffiently" changed to "sufficiently" on Page 100 - - "theorboes" changed to "theorbos" on Page 107 - - "hicerigi" changed to "hic erigi" on Page 112 - - "d Arpino" changed to "d'Arpino" on Page 119 - - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 123 - - "Sextns" changed to "Sextus" on Page 124 - - "S.P. Q.R.D.D." changed to "S.P.Q.R.D.D." on Page 124 - - "tune" changed to "tunc" on Page 124 - - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 132 - - "viz." changed to "viz" on Page 138 - - Period added after "grosse" on Page 138 - - Semicolon added after "Cybel" on Page 140 - - "Scipio'o" changed to "Scipio's" on Page 140 - - "forman" changed to "formam" on Page 144 - - Quote added before "Inclyta" on Page 146 - - "cinceres" changed to "cineres" on Page 153 - - Colon changed to a semicolon after "brass" on Page 161 - - Round bracket added after "excepted" on Page 164 - - "Lanframe" changed to "Lanfranc" on Page 166 - - Comma changed to a period after "VIII" on Page 167 - - "sinking" changed to "stinking" on Page 178 - - "suphurous" changed to "sulphurous" on Page 178 - - Comma added after "Pegasus" on Page 178 - - "gread" changed to "great" on Page 179 - - Colon changed to semicolon after "mummy" on Page 182 - - Period changed to comma after "ordnance" on Page 187 - - Comma changed to a semicolon after "marble" on Page 200 - - Period added after "October" on Page 212 - - "thought" changed to "taught" on Page 213 - - Extra "to" removed on Page 214 - - Extra "of" removed on Page 217 - - "Poti" changed to "Pot."-- on Page 223 - - Comma added after "August" on Page 243 - - "father s" changed to "father's" on Page 251 - - "Cecilia's" changed to "Cecilia's" on Page 259 - - "Musician's" changed to "Musicians" on Page 259 - - Extra "the" removed on Page 264 - - "captan" changed to "captain" on Page 265 - - "taffet" changed to "taffeta" on Page 265 - - "Febur's" changed to "Febure's" on Page 269 - - "Cromwells" changed to "Cromwell's" on Page 274 - - "Condè's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275 - - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 - - Duplicate "the" removed on Page 284 - - Comma changed to a period after "Mr" on Page 284 - - "delighful" changed to "delightful" on Page 285 - - "Pophams" changed to "Popham's" on Page 285 - - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 - - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 - - Comma added after "music" on Page 287 - - "MSS." changed to "MS." on Page 288 - - "meantine" changed to "meantime" on Page 290 - - Period added after "prospect" on Page 296 - - Comma added after "December" on Page 302 - - Comma changed to a period after "it" on Page 308 - - "indiffierently" changed to "indifferently" on Page 314 - - "January" changed to "February" on Page 314 - - "January" changed to "February" on Page 315 - - "deperate" changed to "desperate" on Page 317 - - Period added after "1657" on Page 317 - - Period added after "country" on Page 317 - - "commisioners" changed to "commissioners" on Page 326 - - Comma added after "November" on Page 328 - - "1650" changed to "1660" on Page 336 - - Period added after "Crisp" on Page 356 - - Comma changed to a period after "modern" on Page 356 - - Period added after "St" on Page 360 - - Extra "the" removed on Page 362 - - Comma changed to a period after "St" on Page 364 - - Period added after "Sylva" on Page 365 - - "October" changed to "November" on Page 366 - - Period added after "Worcester" on Page 366 - - Period added after "St" on Page 366 - - Comma changed to a period after "1664" on Page 376 - - "againt" changed to "against" on Page 378 - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by -John Evelyn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - -***** This file should be named 41218-8.txt or 41218-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/1/41218/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/41218-8.zip b/41218-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 786e52c..0000000 --- a/41218-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41218-h.zip b/41218-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 17c1248..0000000 --- a/41218-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41218-h/41218-h.htm b/41218-h/41218-h.htm index 631ea58..35888ab 100644 --- a/41218-h/41218-h.htm +++ b/41218-h/41218-h.htm @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <html lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn. </title> @@ -200,50 +200,7 @@ table { </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by John Evelyn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2) - -Author: John Evelyn - -Commentator: Richard Garnett - -Release Date: October 29, 2012 [EBook #41218] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - - - - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41218 ***</div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> @@ -411,7 +368,7 @@ were clever fellows. Charles was much the cleverer of the two." Thus John Evelyn and Samuel Pepys, the former a perfect model of decorum, the latter a grievous example of indecorum, have respectively left us diaries, -of which the indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical +of which the indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical garden is to a museum: while the disparity between the testamentary bequests of the two Austins but imperfectly represents the reputation standing to Pepys's account with @@ -475,12 +432,12 @@ not unappreciated, but modern works impart more real pleasure. Of the philosophical reflections which afterward rose to the mind of Gibbon there is hardly a vestige, and of course Evelyn is at an immeasurable -distance from Byron and De Staël. But he gives us +distance from Byron and De Staël. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude of a cultivated young Englishman in presence of classic and renaissance art with its background of Southern nature. We may register without undue self-complacency a great -development of the modern world in the æsthetical region +development of the modern world in the æsthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of progress. It is interesting to compare with Evelyn's nar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>rative the chapters recording the visit to Italy supposed @@ -540,7 +497,7 @@ Quincey: "They are useful as now and then enabling one to fix the date of a particular event, but for little besides." The Diary's direct contribution to historical accuracy is insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological -minutiæ, but to the general progress of moral and +minutiæ, but to the general progress of moral and political improvement. The editor of 1857 certainly goes too far in asserting that "All that might have been excluded from the range of his opinions, his feelings and sympathies @@ -893,7 +850,7 @@ held that office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in 1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and, on the 30th of June, 1696, laid the first stone of that building. He was -also appointed Treasurer, with a salary of £200 a year; +also appointed Treasurer, with a salary of £200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before he received any part of it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span></p> @@ -902,7 +859,7 @@ to instruct himself in the art of shipbuilding, he was desirous of having the use of Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the King's dockyard at Deptford. This was conceded; but during his stay he did so -much damage that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 +much damage that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it. He especially regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been thought beyond the reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's @@ -1202,7 +1159,7 @@ person of that rare conversation that, upon frequent recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion, or inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about -£4000 per annum, well wooded, and full of timber.</p> +£4000 per annum, well wooded, and full of timber.</p> <p>My mother's name was Eleanor, sole daughter and heiress of John Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and @@ -1267,7 +1224,7 @@ poet:</p> <div class="centerpoem" style="font-style:italic;"> <div class="poem"> -<span class="i0">Nescio quâ natale solum dulcedine cunctos<br></span> +<span class="i0">Nescio quâ natale solum dulcedine cunctos<br></span> <span class="i0">Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui.</span> </div></div> @@ -1333,14 +1290,14 @@ of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was afterward minister); the building whereof was chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having the impropriation, -gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I +gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward sold the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the building of the church.</p> <p>1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn my Latin rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very well remember that -general muster previous to the Isle of Rhè's expedition, +general muster previous to the Isle of Rhè's expedition, and that I was one day awakened in the morning with the news of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton, after our disgrace before La Rochelle. @@ -1543,7 +1500,7 @@ the exact discipline of William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor to the library of the College, these books—"<i>ex dono Johannis Evelyni, hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, -è com. Surriæ, armig<sup>r</sup></i>."—</p> +è com. Surriæ, armig<sup>r</sup></i>."—</p> <p>"<i>Zanchii Opera</i>," vols. 1, 2, 3.</p> @@ -1685,7 +1642,7 @@ against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much contribute to the love of that impolished study, to which (I suppose) my father had designed me, when he -paid £145 to purchase our present lives, and assignments +paid £145 to purchase our present lives, and assignments afterward.</p> <p>London, and especially the Court, were at this period @@ -1904,7 +1861,7 @@ wherein he was born, over which there are extant these lines, in capital letters:</p> -<p class="center" style="font-size:.9em;">ÆDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS</p> +<p class="center" style="font-size:.9em;">ÆDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS</p> <p class="center" style="font-size:.9em;"><a name="tn_png_044"></a><!--TN: Comma removed after "ARTIBUS" and word was moved to the start of following line-->ARTIBUS INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE.</p> @@ -2526,7 +2483,7 @@ other stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of architecture: the pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and rare pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive tables and relics. Hence, -to the Vroù Kirk, or Nôtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a +to the Vroù Kirk, or Nôtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, which I ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent; which, happening on a day @@ -2561,7 +2518,7 @@ and magnificent building.</p> for the fame of their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided into four classes, with several inscriptions over each: as, first, <i>Ad majorem Dei gloriam</i>; over -the second, <i>Princeps diligentiæ</i>; the third, <i>Imperator +the second, <i>Princeps diligentiæ</i>; the third, <i>Imperator Byzantiorum</i>; over the fourth and uppermost, <i>Imperator Romanorum</i>. Under these, the scholars and pupils and their places, or forms with titles and priority according @@ -3105,7 +3062,7 @@ Majesty's Resident with the French king.</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p><p>5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary: I went to meet him in a coach and -six horses, at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompière, +six horses, at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompière, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of @@ -3144,7 +3101,7 @@ erected is inclosed with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, -the Isle du Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this +the Isle du Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the woman of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very @@ -3153,7 +3110,7 @@ is conveyed by huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. -Other bridges there are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the +Other bridges there are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is @@ -3168,7 +3125,7 @@ ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more hereafter) are very regular.</p> -<p>The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, +<p>The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly Paris, comprehending @@ -3182,7 +3139,7 @@ were mingled with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London.</p> -<p>On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre +<p>On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre Dame, erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles @@ -3327,7 +3284,7 @@ piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable palaces.</p> -<p>The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, +<p>The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands on a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> @@ -3340,16 +3297,16 @@ made in imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as that on the Pont Neuf.</p> <p>The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. -Honoré, is an excellent foundation; but above all is the -Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre Dame, a +Honoré, is an excellent foundation; but above all is the +Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the -Charité gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently +Charité gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great -success, yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to -have been built by Julius Cæsar) are places of judicature +success, yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to +have been built by Julius Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent.</p> @@ -3386,7 +3343,7 @@ the insertion of several colored marbles, have been of great expense.</p> <p>We went through the long gallery, paved with white -and black marble, richly fretted and painted <i>à fresco</i>. +and black marble, richly fretted and painted <i>à fresco</i>. The front looking to the river, though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it.</p> @@ -3490,7 +3447,7 @@ are antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer walls -only painted <i>à fresco</i>. In the court is a Volary, and the +only painted <i>à fresco</i>. In the court is a Volary, and the statues of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under shelter is the figure of @@ -3530,7 +3487,7 @@ these walks, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads -to the Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those +to the Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in painting, @@ -3841,7 +3798,7 @@ by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden. The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the Reformed a church.</p> -<p>The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, +<p>The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three @@ -3864,7 +3821,7 @@ goodly church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair -halls and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The +halls and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the @@ -3932,19 +3889,19 @@ inscription:</p> <p class="blockquot">"Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: <a name="tn_png_087"></a><!--TN: "Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno"-->Cum anno -1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem +1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, aº D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne de -Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D."</p> +Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D."</p> <p>On the other side are these monkish rhymes:</p> <div class="centerpoem"> <div class="poem"> <span class="ia">"Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos<br></span> <span class="i2">Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit,<br></span> -<span class="i0">Et Cenomanensis virtute <a name="tn_png_087a"></a><!--TN: "ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" -->coërcuit ensis,<br></span> +<span class="i0">Et Cenomanensis virtute <a name="tn_png_087a"></a><!--TN: "ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" -->coërcuit ensis,<br></span> <span class="i2">Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit.<br></span> -<span class="i0">Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ,<br></span> +<span class="i0">Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ,<br></span> <span class="i2">Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino.<br></span> <span class="i0">Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus<br></span> <span class="i2">Virginis in gremio Phœbus, et hic obiit."</span> @@ -4135,8 +4092,8 @@ in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil.</p> <p>6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">18</a> which she requested of me, and went to see -divers of the fairest palaces of the town, as that of Vendôme, -very large and stately; Lougueville; Guise; Condé;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +divers of the fairest palaces of the town, as that of Vendôme, +very large and stately; Lougueville; Guise; Condé;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris toward the river.</p> @@ -4190,7 +4147,7 @@ on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This disaster made such an -alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt Marshal, +alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would take cognizance of @@ -4222,13 +4179,13 @@ well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it were) from two branches out of its <a name="tn_png_093"></a><!--TN: Period added after "capital"-->capital. The inscriptions on the cross are in Latin: "<i>Mors Christi in -cruce nos á contagione, labis et æternorum morborum sanavit</i>." +cruce nos á contagione, labis et æternorum morborum sanavit</i>." On the pedestal: "<i>Rex in hoc signo hostes profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean -Buret, m. f.</i>"—"<i>Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ +Buret, m. f.</i>"—"<i>Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ liberavit. A Domino factum est illud, et est mirabile in -oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc nostræ fidei Insignia</i>."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc nostræ fidei Insignia</i>."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> To this is made an annual procession on 12th of May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of people. The wine of this place @@ -4302,8 +4259,8 @@ are these words:</p> <div class="centerpoem"> <div class="poem"> <span class="ia">"Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo,<br></span> -<span class="i2">Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu;<br></span> -<span class="i0">Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis!<br></span> +<span class="i2">Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu;<br></span> +<span class="i0">Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis!<br></span> <span class="i2">Gallica non alio principe digna fuit."</span> </div></div> @@ -4367,7 +4324,7 @@ head, or branches, hung up by chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should be artificial -they show also the ribs and vertebræ of the same beast; +they show also the ribs and vertebræ of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone.</p> <p>Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> @@ -4429,7 +4386,7 @@ with fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of the great Cardinal.</p> -<p>25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly +<p>25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures @@ -4456,10 +4413,10 @@ famous poet, Ronsard.</p> <p>Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, where the cloister is painted with the -miracles of their St. Francis à Paula, whose ashes lie in -their chapel, with this inscription: "<i>Corpus Sancti Fran. à -Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno -1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent</i>." The tomb has +miracles of their St. Francis à Paula, whose ashes lie in +their chapel, with this inscription: "<i>Corpus Sancti Fran. à +Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno +1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent</i>." The tomb has four small pyramids of marble at each corner.</p> <p>9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which @@ -4469,7 +4426,7 @@ end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches hanging down in abundance.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> <p>20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural -caves, called Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is +caves, called Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is a spring within the bowels of the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, @@ -4486,7 +4443,7 @@ the main rock of freestone.</p> of Chevereux, a sweet place.</p> <p>30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as -far as Roche Corbé, to the ruins of an old and very +far as Roche Corbé, to the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from whence the country and river yield a most incomparable @@ -4560,9 +4517,9 @@ an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all sorts of antiquities, -especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The long +especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> -the roof with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it +the roof with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample. @@ -4578,7 +4535,7 @@ to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and now belonging to the -Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the gallery, +Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster.</p> @@ -4592,12 +4549,12 @@ the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense; is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. -In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp +In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the -cathedral, well built <i>à la Gothique</i>, full of sepulchres without-side, +cathedral, well built <i>à la Gothique</i>, full of sepulchres without-side, with the representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served @@ -4692,7 +4649,7 @@ leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time to -visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, +visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing. The place of the <i>Belle @@ -4711,7 +4668,7 @@ are also other antiquities.</p> <p>30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon on the river, and got the first -night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an Archbishopric, +night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, @@ -5196,7 +5153,7 @@ arches; and here lies buried the learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore contained the tribute paid yearly by the city -to Cæsar. It is placed, as I remember, on a pillar of +to Cæsar. It is placed, as I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns. Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> @@ -5261,7 +5218,7 @@ in a drunken bravado, would try their fortune in this way.</p> <p>The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and -excellently painted <i>á fresco</i> on the outer walls, with +excellently painted <i>á fresco</i> on the outer walls, with representations of many of their victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my @@ -5277,7 +5234,7 @@ pursued.</p> <p>22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of Signor -Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were +Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with more than a thousand @@ -5369,7 +5326,7 @@ a globe of ivory, excellently carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a -head of a Cæsar, covered with a canopy so richly set with +head of a Cæsar, covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two @@ -5463,7 +5420,7 @@ accommodations.</p> <p>At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are continually exercised in the -<i>manège</i>.</p> +<i>manège</i>.</p> <p>Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in @@ -5496,7 +5453,7 @@ ensigns being the arms of the town, are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far without the city.</p> -<p>The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and +<p>The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and chapel, and, being made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks above @@ -5518,7 +5475,7 @@ University, or rather College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, -Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas +Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas Sylvius; and both were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini.</p> <p>The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which @@ -5548,7 +5505,7 @@ a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the altar is the library, where are painted the acts of -Æneas Sylvius, and others by Raphael. They showed us +Æneas Sylvius, and others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription @@ -5651,8 +5608,8 @@ most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is this inscription:</p> <div class="centerpoem"> <div class="poem"> -<span class="ia">"<i>L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta,</i><br></span> -<span class="i0"><i>In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta</i><br></span> +<span class="ia">"<i>L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta,</i><br></span> +<span class="i0"><i>In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta</i><br></span> <span class="i0"><i>Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta.</i>"</span> </div></div> @@ -5706,7 +5663,7 @@ this odd inscription:</p> <p class="blockquot">"<i>Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi -Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: <a name="tn_png_125"></a><!--TN: Period changed to a colon after after "vetustiss"-->vetustiss: patriæ +Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: <a name="tn_png_125"></a><!--TN: Period changed to a colon after after "vetustiss"-->vetustiss: patriæ monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V.</i>"</p> <p>Under it:</p> @@ -5771,7 +5728,7 @@ by Augustine Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed. Thence, -we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing +we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing the fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent of ground backward. @@ -5886,7 +5843,7 @@ of the Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them), of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico within, are -the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so +the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head of brass, and that @@ -5916,7 +5873,7 @@ Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent -masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, +masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, Horatius Cocles, etc. The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or @@ -5926,7 +5883,7 @@ sucking the wolf, of brass, with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining -are the names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, +are the names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished @@ -5998,7 +5955,7 @@ any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the <i>volto</i> whereof was newly -painted <i>á fresco</i>, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il +painted <i>á fresco</i>, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of worthy collections, medals, marbles, and @@ -6070,7 +6027,7 @@ of Elizabeth; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) -Cæsar Baronius, the great annalist. Through this, we +Cæsar Baronius, the great annalist. Through this, we went into the <i>sacristia</i>, where, the tapers being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration @@ -6108,7 +6065,7 @@ and noble statues of porphyry, oriental alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area, environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to preserve their oil, or wine rather, -which they buried, and such as are properly called <i>testæ</i>. +which they buried, and such as are properly called <i>testæ</i>. In the Palace I must never forget the famous statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> @@ -6184,12 +6141,12 @@ with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an aqueduct by Sextus V., <i>ex agro Columna</i>, by -way of Præneste, as the inscription testifies. It gushes +way of Præneste, as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, -where were the gardens of Sallust. The faciàta of this +where were the gardens of Sallust. The facià ta of this church is noble, the <i>soffito</i> within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite @@ -6299,9 +6256,9 @@ going out at the further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the portico, is this late inscription: "<i>Cardinal Antonio Barberino Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, -laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, -Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis -ædibus huc transtulit et ornavit, 1632</i>." Just before this +laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, +Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis +ædibus huc transtulit et ornavit, 1632</i>." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, @@ -6313,7 +6270,7 @@ Domenico Fontana, with this epigraph: "<i>Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem restitutum -Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs <a name="tn_png_139"></a><!--TN: "hicerigi" changed to "hic erigi"-->hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, +Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs <a name="tn_png_139"></a><!--TN: "hicerigi" changed to "hic erigi"-->hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, Pont. III</i>"; and so we came weary to our lodgings.</p> <p>At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, @@ -6337,7 +6294,7 @@ did next invite us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> -<i>á fresco</i> on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On +<i>á fresco</i> on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum.</p> @@ -6398,7 +6355,7 @@ altitude, which well deserves this distich of the poet:</p> <div class="centerpoem"> <div class="poem"> -<span class="ia">"<i>Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro;</i><br></span> +<span class="ia">"<i>Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro;</i><br></span> <span class="i0"><i>Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus.</i>"<br></span> </div></div> @@ -6524,7 +6481,7 @@ with great noise; I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p> <p>Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated -by Octavius Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose +by Octavius Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico @@ -6634,7 +6591,7 @@ are Christ and the twelve Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the <i>volto</i>, or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses -overlaid with gold in nature of a deep basso-relievo, <i>à +overlaid with gold in nature of a deep basso-relievo, <i>à l'antique</i>. The nave, or body, is in form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the <i>internodium</i> of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all @@ -6695,8 +6652,8 @@ placed four exquisite statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica, made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the miraculous <i>Sudarium</i> indued with the picture of our Savior's -face, with this inscription: "<i>Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ -Sudario exceptam ut loci majestas decentèr custodiret, +face, with this inscription: "<i>Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ +Sudario exceptam ut loci majestas decentèr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit</i>."</p> @@ -6704,8 +6661,8 @@ addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit</i>."</p> magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "<i>Longini Lanceam quam Innocentius -VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. -statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium +VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. +statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium transtulit</i>."</p> <p>The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our @@ -6715,9 +6672,9 @@ is preserved a great piece of the pretended wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with this inscription: "<i>Partem Crucis quam Helena -Imperatrix è Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. -Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam, additis arâ et -statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit</i>."</p> +Imperatrix è Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. +Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam, additis arâ et +statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit</i>."</p> <p>The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the work of @@ -6728,9 +6685,9 @@ statue placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this:</p> -<p class="blockquot">"<i>St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum +<p class="blockquot">"<i>St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum -sacrisque statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit.</i>"</p> +sacrisque statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit.</i>"</p> <p>The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, @@ -6810,7 +6767,7 @@ Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and tables, especially -those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, +those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a tribunal all of <a name="tn_png_150"></a><!--TN: "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic"-->Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the Madonna, much @@ -6861,31 +6818,31 @@ entire, and (having been thrown down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope, Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed -at the several faciátas:</p> +at the several faciátas:</p> <p class="blockquot"><i>Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum -à patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum -impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; +à patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum +impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum <a name="tn_png_151a"></a><!--TN: "S.P. Q.R.D.D." changed to "S.P.Q.R.D.D."-->S.P.Q.R.D.D.</i></p> <p>On the second square:</p> -<p class="blockquot"><i>Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor -Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus +<p class="blockquot"><i>Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor +Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se <a name="tn_png_151b"></a><!--TN: "tune" changed to "tunc"-->tunc conditam eo decoraret monumento.</i></p> <p>On the third:</p> -<p class="blockquot"><i><a name="tn_png_151"></a><!--TN: "Sextns" changed to "Sextus"-->Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum -calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum, -multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, -formàq; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit +<p class="blockquot"><i><a name="tn_png_151"></a><!--TN: "Sextns" changed to "Sextus"-->Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum +calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum, +multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, +formà q; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit anno M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII.</i></p> <p>On the fourth:</p> -<p class="blockquot"><i>Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis +<p class="blockquot"><i>Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis gloriam propagavit.</i></p> <p>Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a @@ -6901,15 +6858,15 @@ upon the architrave of the portico:</p> <div class="centerpoem" style="font-style:italic;"> <div class="poem"> <span class="i0">Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali<br></span> -<span class="i0">Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiarŭ<br></span> +<span class="i0">Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiarŭ<br></span> <span class="i0">Hinc Salvatoris cœlestia regna datoris<br></span> <span class="i0">Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt;<br></span> <span class="i0">Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto<br></span> -<span class="i0">Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes.</span> +<span class="i0">Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes.</span> </div></div> <p>It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly -dwelling it seems hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The +dwelling it seems hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, @@ -6921,7 +6878,7 @@ hold) St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over -which it is painted <i>á fresco</i> with the life and acts of +which it is painted <i>á fresco</i> with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns. The <i>soffito</i> is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the @@ -6938,7 +6895,7 @@ with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those of the great -Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the +Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the <i>sacristia</i>, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of the church is a flat stone supported by four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> pillars which they affirm to have been the exact height @@ -6977,7 +6934,7 @@ Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the <i>tribuna</i> are excellent.</p> -<p>Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges +<p>Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of @@ -6996,7 +6953,7 @@ We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the Chiesa Nova.</p> <p>21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great -virtuoso, Cavaliéro Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection +virtuoso, Cavaliéro Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique @@ -7014,7 +6971,7 @@ crimson velvet, designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames; also a number of choice designs and drawings.</p> -<p>Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, +<p>Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, where yet remain some ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro <i>in vinculis</i>, one of the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of @@ -7060,9 +7017,9 @@ called <i>secreti</i>.</p> the dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, very rich, and followed -by innumerable <i>staffiéri</i> and pages; the secretaries of the +by innumerable <i>staffiéri</i> and pages; the secretaries of the <i>chancellaria</i>, <i>abbreviatori-accoliti</i> in their long robes, and -on mules; <i>auditori di rota</i>; the dean of the <i>rôti</i> and master +on mules; <i>auditori di rota</i>; the dean of the <i>rôti</i> and master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes, and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with @@ -7249,7 +7206,7 @@ who gave me some lessons on the theorbo.</p> <p>The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but famous only for the painting -<i>á fresco</i> on the <i>volto</i> of the portico toward the garden; +<i>á fresco</i> on the <i>volto</i> of the portico toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters designing and copying after it, being @@ -7281,7 +7238,7 @@ interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor, St. Luke, St. -Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St. +Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St. Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their wives; too long to particularize.</p> @@ -7312,7 +7269,7 @@ went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord.</p> <p>29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English -Jesuits to dinner, being their great feast of Thomas [à +Jesuits to dinner, being their great feast of Thomas [à Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by their alumni before the Cardinals.</p> @@ -7415,20 +7372,20 @@ stairs is a painting of St. Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior.</p> <p>Out of this I went into another hall, just before the -chapel, called the Sàla del Conclave, full of admirable +chapel, called the Sà la del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, -"<i>Coligni et sociorum cædes</i>:" on the other side, "<i>Rex Coligi +"<i>Coligni et sociorum cædes</i>:" on the other side, "<i>Rex Coligi necem probat</i>."</p> <p>There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed:</p> <p class="blockquot">"<i>Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum -fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè -susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq; Fredericus, +fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè +susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq; Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio restituta MCLXXVIII.</i>"<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">24</a></p> @@ -7605,7 +7562,7 @@ in 1070, as you may read by those Greek verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of whose columns is this odd title: -"<i>Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis V. S. I. reparavit</i>." +"<i>Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis V. S. I. reparavit</i>." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two excellent statues. Here are buried part of the @@ -7677,7 +7634,7 @@ other is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues; most of them the heads of Philosophers, -very antique. One of the Cæsars and another of Hannibal +very antique. One of the Cæsars and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. @@ -7757,14 +7714,14 @@ makes a most glorious show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are:</p> -<p class="blockquot">"<i>Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto -Cæsare extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem <a name="tn_png_171"></a><!--TN: "forman" changed to "formam"-->formam +<p class="blockquot">"<i>Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto +Cæsare extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem <a name="tn_png_171"></a><!--TN: "forman" changed to "formam"-->formam restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V.</i>"</p> <p>And toward the fields:</p> <p class="blockquot">"<i>Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi -temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem.</i>"</p> +temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem.</i>"</p> <p class="centerquot">* * * * * * * * *</p> @@ -7784,7 +7741,7 @@ those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still on the Appian -to the <i>Tres Tabernæ</i> (whither the brethren came from +to the <i>Tres Tabernæ</i> (whither the brethren came from Rome to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged by the vast stones @@ -7848,13 +7805,13 @@ stands a pillar thus inscribed:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page <p>On another more ancient:</p> -<p class="blockquot">"<i>Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus +<p class="blockquot">"<i>Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. -xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit.</i>"</p> +xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit.</i>"</p> <p>Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then:</p> -<p class="blockquot">"<i>Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect. Classis.— +<p class="blockquot">"<i>Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect. Classis.— Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, <span style="font-size:.8em;">II.</span> vir.</i>"</p> @@ -7872,8 +7829,8 @@ height, stands an old and very great castle. <span class="sidenote">FONDI</span> this night at Fondi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa, and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this -epigraph saluted us: "<i>Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; -si amicus advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis +epigraph saluted us: "<i>Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; +si amicus advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges</i>." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by @@ -7883,12 +7840,12 @@ in the environing hedges. At Fondi, we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruit.</p> -<p>29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous +<p>29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous for the generous wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana -[Formiæ], where they showed us Cicero's tomb, +[Formiæ], where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable ora<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>tor was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly @@ -7945,7 +7902,7 @@ oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took leave, having been very merry by the way -with them and the capitáno, their gallant.</p> +with them and the capitáno, their gallant.</p> <div class="sidenote">NAPLES</div> @@ -7961,7 +7918,7 @@ hired a coach to carry us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with -all the circumjacent islands, as far as Capreæ, famous +all the circumjacent islands, as far as Capreæ, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of @@ -8014,7 +7971,7 @@ wall.</p> <p>After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix that is reported to have said these words -to St. Thomas, "<i>Benè de me scripsisti, Thoma</i>." Hence, to +to St. Thomas, "<i>Benè de me scripsisti, Thoma</i>." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro.</p> @@ -8027,7 +7984,7 @@ of recording, as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "<i>Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post -annos hôc in loco ponendum curavit.</i>"</p> +annos hôc in loco ponendum curavit.</i>"</p> <p>Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly @@ -8035,7 +7992,7 @@ prospect toward the sea and city, the one full of galleys<span class="pagenum">< and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva -and Misenum, Capreæ, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, +and Misenum, Capreæ, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common @@ -8114,8 +8071,8 @@ brimstone, others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the -goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, -Elysian Fields, Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, +goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, +Elysian Fields, Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. @@ -8176,8 +8133,8 @@ trees. At the entrance is this inscription:</p> <p class="centerquot"><i>Stanisi Cencovius.<br> 1589<br> -Qui <a name="tn_png_180"></a><!--TN: "cinceres" changed to "cineres"-->cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim<br> -Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces.<br> +Qui <a name="tn_png_180"></a><!--TN: "cinceres" changed to "cineres"-->cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim<br> +Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces.<br> Can Ree MDLIII.</i><a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">26</a></p> <p>After we were advanced into this noble and altogether @@ -8251,8 +8208,8 @@ here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a furnace. The mountains -were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields -Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted +were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields +Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter of a mile in breadth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of whose @@ -8360,7 +8317,7 @@ had been come.</p> <p>From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the poet for the -gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and +gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and where he sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the river Styx @@ -8399,13 +8356,13 @@ ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many infirmities. Now we entered -the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that famous +the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sun shines on, according to that of Horace:</p> -<p class="centerquot">"<i>Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amœnis.</i>"</p> +<p class="centerquot">"<i>Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amœnis.</i>"</p> <p class="continue">Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the ruins, whereof the most entire is that of @@ -8414,7 +8371,7 @@ famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish pirates. It was once the retiring -place of Julius Cæsar.</p> +place of Julius Cæsar.</p> <p>Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the monstrous murder of Nero committed on @@ -8430,11 +8387,11 @@ dropping.</p> the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of -Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly +Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. Here -was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar +was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar died; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we walked to those @@ -8573,12 +8530,12 @@ here anchor three or four water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, -wrought <i>á fresco</i>, preserved in shutters of wainscot, as +wrought <i>á fresco</i>, preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world.</p> <p>14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church -built and endowed by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +built and endowed by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> a stately altar near the body of this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; @@ -8596,13 +8553,13 @@ formerly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here are the ruins of the Temple -of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately hospital and +of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it, Santa -Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was +Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of Hercules, @@ -8639,7 +8596,7 @@ VII. Vir. Epulonum.</i>"</p> <p>And a little beneath:</p> <p class="blockquot">"<i>Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. -Ponti P. F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L.</i>"</p> +Ponti P. F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L.</i>"</p> <p>At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which the three Horatii passed to encounter @@ -8651,11 +8608,11 @@ of these baths. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by Mons Cœlius, we beheld the devotions of St. -Maria in Naviculâ, so named from a ship carved out in +Maria in Naviculâ, so named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the -Hortii Mathæi, which only of all the places about the +Hortii Mathæi, which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and @@ -8683,7 +8640,7 @@ Blessed Savior met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again.</p> <p>St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the -<i>facciáta</i> <a name="tn_png_191"></a><!--TN: Round bracket added after "excepted"-->excepted), but is venerable, especially for the +<i>facciáta</i> <a name="tn_png_191"></a><!--TN: Round bracket added after "excepted"-->excepted), but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is @@ -8788,7 +8745,7 @@ devices, and impresses hung about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of -Caracci. The <i>facciáta</i>, too, is fair. Returning home, I +Caracci. The <i>facciáta</i>, too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had @@ -8862,7 +8819,7 @@ and other painters.</p> a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole Corso.</p> -<p>22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a +<p>22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a monastery of French, a noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with the @@ -8899,7 +8856,7 @@ of which I took notice of this inscription:</p> </div></div> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> -<p>Opposite to the <i>facciátæ</i> of the church is a superb +<p>Opposite to the <i>facciátæ</i> of the church is a superb obelisk full of hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since @@ -9040,7 +8997,7 @@ are painted this martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, -the prætor; and so passed through that incomparable +the prætor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired.</p> @@ -9071,7 +9028,7 @@ saints alike to appearance.</p> <p>The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix; a terminus that formerly -stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of the Emperor +stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with noble fountains. Continuing @@ -9113,7 +9070,7 @@ Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders to the place where, -reading the Bull <i>In Cœnâ Domini</i>, he both curses and +reading the Bull <i>In Cœnâ Domini</i>, he both curses and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve poor men, with almost the @@ -9167,7 +9124,7 @@ giving the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took coach a -little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, +little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about twenty paces, which @@ -9233,7 +9190,7 @@ with festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall were the Twelve -Cæsars, of antique marble, and the whole apartments furnished +Cæsars, of antique marble, and the whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for I often visited this delicious place.</p> @@ -9335,7 +9292,7 @@ the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular exhibition -in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho (looking-glass). +in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho (looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four sweet and delicious gardens. @@ -9356,7 +9313,7 @@ whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured <i>mezzo relievo</i>. At the end of this, next the wall, is the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> -thermæ, temples, arches, aqueducts, streets, and other +thermæ, temples, arches, aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds @@ -9390,7 +9347,7 @@ little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope.</p> <div class="sidenote">ROME</div> <p>And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were -showed, at some distance, the city Præneste, and the +showed, at some distance, the city Præneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of ruins; and so came late to our lodging.</p> @@ -9462,7 +9419,7 @@ wore red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color. -There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, +There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much solicited for an order of Jesuitesses.</p> <p>At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his @@ -9535,9 +9492,9 @@ within and without with white and black marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles, representing the story of both Testaments, -admirably wrought. Here lies Pius II. The bibliotéca +admirably wrought. Here lies Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life of -Æneas Sylvius is in <span style="font-size:.8em;">FRESCO</span>; in the middle are the +Æneas Sylvius is in <span style="font-size:.8em;">FRESCO</span>; in the middle are the Three Graces, in antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's disciplining @@ -9582,7 +9539,7 @@ pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb:</p> <span class="i0">Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum.<br></span> <span class="i0">Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit.<br></span> <span class="i0">Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum.<br></span> -<span class="i0">Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ<br></span> +<span class="i0">Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ<br></span> <span class="i0">Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi,<br></span> <span class="i0">Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum.</span> </div></div> @@ -9590,7 +9547,7 @@ pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb:</p> <p>Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the fairest even in Rome: witness -the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above all venerable +the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above all venerable for that sacred <i>volto</i> which (as tradition goes) was miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the artist, finishing the rest of the @@ -9718,7 +9675,7 @@ other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription, in rubies:</p> -<p class="centerquot">"<i>Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto.</i>"</p> +<p class="centerquot">"<i>Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto.</i>"</p> <p class="continue">There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an infinity of such like rarities. Looking @@ -10058,7 +10015,7 @@ the palace and church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of -Nicholao Oläo once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in +Nicholao Oläo once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are @@ -10071,7 +10028,7 @@ sign.</p> <p>We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets called Eridanus, where -they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash attempt, +they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me in this passage, and afterward @@ -10442,7 +10399,7 @@ down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or the citizens, may not wear <i>choppines</i>, but cover their bodies and faces with a veil of -a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which they +a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this habit; but go abroad barefaced. @@ -10555,7 +10512,7 @@ subscription:</p> <span class="ia">"<i>Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem</i><br></span> <span class="i2"><i>Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga,</i><br></span> <span class="i0"><i>Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem,</i><br></span> -<span class="i2"><i>Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus.</i>"</span> +<span class="i2"><i>Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus.</i>"</span> </div></div> <p>Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being @@ -10564,7 +10521,7 @@ straight, well built, and outside excellently painted in <i>fresco</i>), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one Catta Malata, a renowned captain. -The church, <i>à la Greca</i>, consists of five handsome +The church, <i>à la Greca</i>, consists of five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in @@ -10753,7 +10710,7 @@ of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all, the Monte -Pietà, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. +Pietà , the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer sort, on any pawn, and at @@ -10768,8 +10725,8 @@ arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. Mark.</p> <p class="blockquot"><i>Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies -Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium -à te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit.</i></p> +Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium +à te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit.</i></p> <p class="centerquot" style="font-size:.7em;">CIC.IX.</p> @@ -10915,7 +10872,7 @@ morsel of cork yet retaining its levity, sponges, and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with innumerable more. In another cabinet, supported by twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about with crystal, he showed us several -noble intáglios of agate, especially a head of Tiberius, +noble intáglios of agate, especially a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare cornelians, onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of which was a drop of water not congealed, but moving up and down, @@ -11090,7 +11047,7 @@ confessor, and obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions; without which I was not to travel, in this pompous form:</p> -<p class="blockquot" style="padding-bottom:1em;">"<i>Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Señor +<p class="blockquot" style="padding-bottom:1em;">"<i>Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Señor Le Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero @@ -11181,7 +11138,7 @@ my coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua:</p> (son of Sir Christopher, whose father had been in arms against his Majesty, and therefore by no means welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned man, we -got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, +got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we found growing about them. The ways were something deep, the whole country flat and even as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> @@ -11198,7 +11155,7 @@ Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order; those in the three upper corridors are Doric; under them, are shops in a spacious piazza. The hall was built in -imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler design, <i>à la +imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler design, <i>à la moderne</i>. The next morning, we visited the theater, as being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient @@ -11206,7 +11163,7 @@ Romans, and capable of containing 5,000 spectators. The scene, which is all of stone, represents an imperial city, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is inscribed: "<i>Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia -Theatrum hoc à fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: +Theatrum hoc à fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584</i>." The scene declines eleven feet, the <i>soffito</i> painted with clouds. To this there joins a spacious hall for solemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. @@ -11299,9 +11256,9 @@ magnificent it has formerly been. It has three strong castles and a large and noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, especially the Senate house, where we saw those celebrated statues of Cornelius Nepos, -Æmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having honored +Æmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius -Cæsar Scaliger, that prodigy of learning.</p> +Cæsar Scaliger, that prodigy of learning.</p> <p>In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa where are walks cut out of the main rock, from @@ -11484,11 +11441,11 @@ square stone, on which is engraven a star, and, under it, marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing:</p> -<p class="blockquot">"<i>Imp. Cæsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico +<p class="blockquot">"<i>Imp. Cæsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi Tribi <a name="tn_png_254"></a><!--TN: "Poti" changed to "Pot."-->Pot. VII. Impi IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi -Nervæ Abnepoti Dec. Dec.</i>"</p> +Nervæ Abnepoti Dec. Dec.</i>"</p> <p>We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of Madonna delle Grazie, and in the refectory admired that @@ -11520,7 +11477,7 @@ carrying the keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who had seen them, told me all but one book are small that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> a huge folio contained 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, etc. But whereas the inscription pretends that -our King Charles had offered £1,000 for them,—the truth +our King Charles had offered £1,000 for them,—the truth is, and my Lord himself told me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the name and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, who @@ -12055,7 +12012,7 @@ bled. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said, he had been physician to Gustavus the Great, King of Sweden, when he passed this way into Italy, under the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of Gustavus -Adolphus Rex Sueciæ, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, +Adolphus Rex Sueciæ, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on his returning out of Italy. He afterward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> acknowledged that he should not have bled me, had he suspected the smallpox, which broke out a day after. @@ -12116,13 +12073,13 @@ under the city arms, a demi-eagle and cross, between cross-keys, is a motto, "<span class="smcap">Post Tenebras Lux</span>," and this inscription:</p> -<p class="blockquot"><i>Quum anno 1535 profligatâ Romanâ Anti-Christi Tyrannide, -abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hìc -in suam puritatem, Ecclesiâ in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei -beneficio repositâ, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in +<p class="blockquot"><i>Quum anno 1535 profligatâ Romanâ Anti-Christi Tyrannide, +abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hìc +in suam puritatem, Ecclesiâ in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei +beneficio repositâ, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; Senatus -Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuæ memoriæ -causâ fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum +Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuæ memoriæ +causâ fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit.</i></p> <p>The territories about the town are not so large as many @@ -12134,13 +12091,13 @@ toward the street:</p> <p class="centerquot">D.O.M.S.</p> -<p class="blockquot"><i>Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ restitutâ, -et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et +<p class="blockquot"><i>Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ restitutâ, +et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum Primari -Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, +Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti, beneficii -monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi</i> <span style="font-size:.8em;">CCƆ.IƆ.XXXIV.</span></p> +monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi</i> <span style="font-size:.8em;">CCƆ.IƆ.XXXIV.</span></p> <p>In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were removing earth in the fortifications.</p> @@ -12194,7 +12151,7 @@ carved with the history of our Blessed Savior.</p> exercise in Mars' Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I -first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such +first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in frames, and had great screws<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> to bend them, doing execution at an incredible distance. @@ -12214,7 +12171,7 @@ two wooden bridges that cross the river are several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient tower, said to have been -built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other bridge +built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial.</p> <p>Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile @@ -12273,7 +12230,7 @@ Nevers, early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly built.</p> -<p>The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, +<p>The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the Governor's @@ -12411,7 +12368,7 @@ the Surrey men addressed the Parliament for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, -to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000.</p> +to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000.</p> <p>30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first @@ -12420,7 +12377,7 @@ Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Colchester, where was that memorable siege.</p> <p>27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, -in Worcestershire, of my brother George, for £3,300.</p> +in Worcestershire, of my brother George, for £3,300.</p> <p>1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.</p> @@ -12454,19 +12411,19 @@ Beckhelvyn, and the Cliffhouse.</p> and Lady Gerrard, christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece -of plate which cost me £18, and caused this inscription +of plate which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it—</p> <p class="centerquot"><span class="smcap" style="padding-bottom:0em;">In memoriam facti.</span></p> <p class="blockquot continue" style="padding-bottom:0em;padding-top:0em;"><span class="smcap">Anno cIc Ix. xliix. Cal. Decem. viii. Virginum castiss: Xtianorum -innocentis: Nept: suavis: Mariæ. Johan. Evelynus Avunculus et +innocentis: Nept: suavis: Mariæ. Johan. Evelynus Avunculus et Susceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe</span> L. M. Q. D.</p> -<p class="centerquot" style="padding-top:0em;"><span class="smcap">Ave Maria Gratiâ sis plena; Dominus tecum.</span></p> +<p class="centerquot" style="padding-top:0em;"><span class="smcap">Ave Maria Gratiâ sis plena; Dominus tecum.</span></p> <p>2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of -Hurcott for £3,400 to one Mr. Bridges.</p> +Hurcott for £3,400 to one Mr. Bridges.</p> <p>13th December, 1648. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and endeavored to have concluded the Isle @@ -12556,7 +12513,7 @@ also a Henry VIII., of Holbein; and Francis I., rare indeed, but of whose hand I know not.</p> <p>16th February, 1649. Paris being now strictly besieged -by the Prince de Condé, my wife being shut up with her +by the Prince de Condé, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her: and, on the 22d, having recommended Obadiah Walker,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and @@ -12758,7 +12715,7 @@ Lord Croftes.</p> Cousin to St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-Mother's hand; dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of the great men of France came to see the King. The -next day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, +next day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to see the President Maison's palace, built cas<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>tle-wise, of a milk-white fine freestone; the house not vast, but well contrived, especially the staircase, and the @@ -12777,7 +12734,7 @@ one of his Majesty's chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, preached.</p> <p>13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince -of Condé to supper at St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke +of Condé to supper at St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in the tennis court, where I saw a famous match between Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, and so returned to Paris. It was noised about that I @@ -12893,7 +12850,7 @@ public office in our chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterward Lord Keeper.</p> <p>18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of -Condé and his brother carried prisoners to the Bois de +Condé and his brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes.</p> <p>6th February, 1650. In the evening, came Signor @@ -12932,7 +12889,7 @@ famous sculptor, Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought some prints; and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape graver.</p> -<p>3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the +<p>3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the operation of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years old underwent the operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing great joy when he saw @@ -12961,7 +12918,7 @@ some others, were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one of the presidents -of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nôtre +of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nôtre Dame. Several of us were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. Immediately @@ -13214,7 +13171,7 @@ and Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor.</p> <p>6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who -was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir Thomas went +was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my friends.</p> @@ -13237,7 +13194,7 @@ visit me.</p> <p>31st December, 1650. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past year, and made up my accounts, -which came this year to 7,015 livres, near £600 sterling.</p> +which came this year to 7,015 livres, near £600 sterling.</p> <p>1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer, @@ -13256,7 +13213,7 @@ Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel.</p> <p>9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed -by Arrêt du Parlement, and great commotions began in +by Arrêt du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.</p> <p>23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, @@ -13281,9 +13238,9 @@ painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some ☿ of antimony. He had cured Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a -monumental altar that was to cost £1,500.</p> +monumental altar that was to cost £1,500.</p> -<p>11th March, 1651. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, +<p>11th March, 1651. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, where a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first @@ -13351,7 +13308,7 @@ heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration of all. -The music was twenty-nine violins, vested <i>à l'antique</i>, +The music was twenty-nine violins, vested <i>à l'antique</i>, but the habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious.</p> @@ -13483,13 +13440,13 @@ of the same. Then, the King's Light Horse, 200, richly habited, with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before whom rode the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with pearl. Next went the -grand Prévôt's company on foot, with the Prévôt on +grand Prévôt's company on foot, with the Prévôt on horseback; after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-colored satin, after their country fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in his cap a <i>pennach</i> of heron, with a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss boys, with -halberds. Then, came the <i>Aide des Cérémonies</i>; next, +halberds. Then, came the <i>Aide des Cérémonies</i>; next, the grandees of court, governors of places and lieutenants-general of provinces, magnificently habited and mounted; among whom I must not forget the Chevalier @@ -13500,7 +13457,7 @@ rich suit his Malta Cross was esteemed at 10,000 crowns. These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding -as many heralds in blue velvet <i>semée</i> with fleurs-de-lis, +as many heralds in blue velvet <i>semée</i> with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on their heads; behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, @@ -13757,7 +13714,7 @@ and I set out in a coach for Calais, in an exceedingly hard frost which had continued for some time. We got that night to Beaumont; 30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; -dined at Pois; lay at Pernèe, a miserable cottage of miserable +dined at Pois; lay at Pernèe, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly unfurnished, but in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, which they told me they hid in the wood for fear of the frontier @@ -13961,7 +13918,7 @@ coach, the pattern whereof I brought out of Paris.</p> that my nephew, George, might be brought up with my young Lord, his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of -camleting silk and grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées +camleting silk and grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who had been my schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's safe landing, and @@ -13982,7 +13939,7 @@ my wife at her landing, and show her all civility.</p> <p>4th June, 1652. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, which had now been besieged some -time by the Prince of <a name="tn_png_306"></a><!--TN: "Condè's" changed to "Condé's"-->Condé's army in the time of the +time by the Prince of <a name="tn_png_306"></a><!--TN: "Condè's" changed to "Condé's"-->Condé's army in the time of the rebellion, and after she had been now near twelve years from her own country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. I went to Rye to meet @@ -14254,7 +14211,7 @@ George Glanville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanville (son to Sergeant Glanville, sometime Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends dining with me. I had bargained -for £3,200, but I paid £3,500.</p> +for £3,200, but I paid £3,500.</p> <p>25th March, <a name="tn_png_312"></a><!--TN: Period added after "1653"-->1653. Came to see me that rare graver in <i>taille-douce</i>, Monsieur Richett, he was sent by Cardinal @@ -14425,7 +14382,7 @@ despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's garden; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances, the banqueting-house of cedar, where the -couch and seats were carved <i>à l'antique</i>; some good pictures +couch and seats were carved <i>à l'antique</i>; some good pictures in the house, especially one of Vandyke's, being a man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at <a name="tn_png_315a"></a><!--TN: Comma changed to a period after "Mr"-->Mr. Ducie's, who has indeed a rare collection of the @@ -14488,7 +14445,7 @@ park, and river. Thence, to Newbury, a considerable town, and Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and castle, this last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey -Forster's, built <i>à la moderne</i>. Also, that exceedingly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> +Forster's, built <i>à la moderne</i>. Also, that exceedingly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of hill, flanked with wood, and regarding the river, and so, at night, to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, @@ -14502,7 +14459,7 @@ diversions of the town, one musician was famous for acting a changeling, which indeed he personated strangely.</p> -<p>The <i>facciáta</i> of this cathedral is remarkable for its +<p>The <i>facciáta</i> of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. The town is entirely built of stone, but the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. Here, @@ -14740,7 +14697,7 @@ that which renders the seat delightful is, its being so near the downs and noble plains about the country contiguous to it. The stables are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the walks of lime trees, with the -court and fountain of the stables adorned with the Cæsars' +court and fountain of the stables adorned with the Cæsars' heads.</p> <p>We returned this evening by the plain, and fourteen-mile @@ -14929,7 +14886,7 @@ we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, situate on the brow -of a hill, built <i>à la moderne</i> near a park walled in, and +of a hill, built <i>à la moderne</i> near a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent.</p> <p>Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging @@ -15107,7 +15064,7 @@ from whence I set out on this excursion.</p> we had tolerable sport.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span></p> <p>25th August, 1654. To see Kirby, a very noble house -of my Lord Hatton's, in Northamptonshire, built <i>à la +of my Lord Hatton's, in Northamptonshire, built <i>à la moderne</i>; the garden and stables agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, and the seat naked: returned that evening.</p> @@ -15341,7 +15298,7 @@ half minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejaculatory spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly adorned) had been presented by some German prince to our late king, and was now in -the possession of the usurper; valued at £200.</p> +the possession of the usurper; valued at £200.</p> <p>2d March, 1655. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweler, showed me a most rich agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and @@ -15410,7 +15367,7 @@ He showed me many rare pictures, particularly the Moor<span class="pagenum"><a n on horseback; Erasmus, as big as the life, by Holbein; a Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the skull, carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was -offered £100; also Albert's head, by himself, with divers +offered £100; also Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and other curiosities.</p> <p>21st August, 1655. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. @@ -15472,7 +15429,7 @@ Darnel, on Psalm iv. 4, concerning the benefit of self-examination; more learning in <span style="font-size:.8em;">SO SHORT A TIME AS AN HOUR</span> I have seldom heard.</p> -<p>17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, +<p>17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were so intolerable that they ate up the rents, etc., surcharged as that county had @@ -15644,7 +15601,7 @@ upon a book newly published by the Doctor, who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned antiquary and herald. Returning, I was shown the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's, -"<i>Obeliscus Pamphilius</i>" and "<i>Ægyptiacus</i>"; in the second +"<i>Obeliscus Pamphilius</i>" and "<i>Ægyptiacus</i>"; in the second volume I found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed it from the stone itself @@ -15867,7 +15824,7 @@ Earl.</p> <p>5th February, 1657. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's; he told me the East India Company of Holland -had constantly a stock of £400,000 in India, and forty-eight +had constantly a stock of £400,000 in India, and forty-eight men-of-war there: he spoke of their exact and just keeping their books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could possibly be lost, or defeated; that it @@ -15896,7 +15853,7 @@ was extremely well-bred, and born in the Caraccas, of Potosi; he had never been in Europe before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of great courage, of the order of St. Jago, sorely wounded in his arm, and his -ribs broken; he lost for his own share £100,000 sterling, +ribs broken; he lost for his own share £100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went with them to Arundel House, where they dined. They were @@ -16069,10 +16026,10 @@ they still might pursue their private trade; but it was carried against them. Wednesday was fixed on for a general court for election of officers, after a sermon and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was -£800,000.</p> +£800,000.</p> <p>27th November, 1657. I took the oath at the East India -House, subscribing £500.</p> +House, subscribing £500.</p> <p>2d December, 1657. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preached before the company at St. Andrew @@ -16142,7 +16099,7 @@ nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the irregular; learned out "Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire vocabulary of Latin and French primitives and words, could make congruous syntax, turn English into -Latin, and <i>vice versâ</i>, construe and prove what he read, +Latin, and <i>vice versâ</i>, construe and prove what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's "<i>Janua</i>"; began @@ -16153,7 +16110,7 @@ which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, he asked what book it was, and, being told it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious application of -fables and morals; for he had read Æsop; he had a wonderful +fables and morals; for he had read Æsop; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his @@ -16193,7 +16150,7 @@ morose, sullen, or childish in anything he said or did. The last time he had been at church (which was at Greenwich), I asked him, according to custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two good things, Father, -said he, <i>bonum gratiæ</i> and <i>bonum gloriæ</i>, with a just +said he, <i>bonum gratiæ</i> and <i>bonum gloriæ</i>, with a just account of what the preacher said.</p> <p>The day before he died, he called to me: and in a @@ -16366,7 +16323,7 @@ old, but convenient. 6th. Returned to Wotton.</p> Horsley, son to the famous Sir Walter.</p> <p>14th August, 1658. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] -to a challenged match at bowls for £10, which we won.</p> +to a challenged match at bowls for £10, which we won.</p> <p>18th August, 1658. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle, in that tempestuous wind which threw down @@ -16748,7 +16705,7 @@ and Morley in a post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and fear kept him from that blessing and honor. I addressed him to Lord Mordaunt, then in great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of -£1,000, as I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! +£1,000, as I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over to his Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in his hands!</p> @@ -16920,12 +16877,12 @@ would by no means undertake the trouble.</p> <p>4th September, 1660. I was invited to an ordination by the Bishop of Bangor, in Henry VII.'s chapel, Westminster, -and afterward saw the audience of an Envoyée +and afterward saw the audience of an Envoyée from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesty's return.</p> <p>5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me -the Envoyée of the King of Poland, and Resident of the +the Envoyée of the King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, etc.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span></p> <p>7th September, 1660. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. @@ -16936,7 +16893,7 @@ returning home that evening.</p> <p>13th September, 1660. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, monkeys and apes dance, and do other feats of activity on the high rope; they were gallantly -clad <i>á la monde</i>, went upright, saluted the company, +clad <i>á la monde</i>, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their hats; they saluted one another with as good a grace as if instructed by a dancing master; they turned heels over head with a basket @@ -16978,7 +16935,7 @@ of Holland in a fatal period.</p> <p>6th October, 1660. I paid the great tax of poll money, levied for disbanding the army, till now kept up. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span> -paid as an Esquire £10, and one shilling for every servant +paid as an Esquire £10, and one shilling for every servant in my house.</p> <p>7th October, 1660. There dined with me a French @@ -17026,7 +16983,7 @@ of rarities; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely esteem; also, that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done in enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, -onyxes, and intaglios, especially a medallion of Cæsar, as +onyxes, and intaglios, especially a medallion of Cæsar, as broad as my hand; likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a landscape of needlework, formerly presented by the Dutch to King Charles I. Here I saw a vast book of @@ -17436,7 +17393,7 @@ Morley, Bishop of Worcester.</p> <p>After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to maintain the religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the -land. The hymn <i>Véni S. Sp.</i> followed, and then the +land. The hymn <i>Véni S. Sp.</i> followed, and then the Litany by two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of Canterbury, present, but much indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your hearts"; at which, the King rose up, and put off @@ -17642,7 +17599,7 @@ not known among us till the Dutch East India Company presented that curious piece to the King; being very excellent sailing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new pleasure boat, built frigate-like, and one of -the Duke of York's; the wager £100; the race from +the Duke of York's; the wager £100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost it going, the wind being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There were divers noble persons and lords on @@ -17780,7 +17737,7 @@ they were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs.</p> <p>16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of -"Naudæus concerning Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; +"Naudæus concerning Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miserably false printed.</p> <p>17th November, 1661. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of @@ -17823,7 +17780,7 @@ assembly, an order was made and registered that I should receive their public thanks for the honorable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society, in my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor, before -my Traduction of Naudæus. Too great an honor for a +my Traduction of Naudæus. Too great an honor for a trifle.</p> <p>4th December, 1661. I had much discourse with the @@ -17874,9 +17831,9 @@ young spark who maintained the pageantry.</p> <p>6th January, 1662. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty opened the revels of that night by throwing the dice himself in the privy chamber, where was a table -set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year before he -won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came -away when the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, +set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year before he +won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came +away when the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, and left them still at passage, cards, etc. At other tables, both there and at the groom-porter's, observing the wicked folly and monstrous excess of passion among @@ -18062,7 +18019,7 @@ came to compliment her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of Ormond brought me to kiss her hand.</p> <p>2d June, 1662. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made -their addresses to the Queen, presenting her £1,000 in +their addresses to the Queen, presenting her £1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, and the Guardadamas, or mother of her maids,<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">71</a> and the old knight, a lock of whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald @@ -18086,14 +18043,14 @@ consisting of pipes, harps, and very ill voices.</p> capacious as any Gothic architecture can have made it. There is an incomparable furniture in it, especially hangings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also -many rare pictures, especially the Cæsarean Triumphs of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> +many rare pictures, especially the Cæsarean Triumphs of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> Andrea Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's; of the tapestries, I believe the world can show nothing nobler of the kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. The gallery of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, elks, antelopes, etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery of silver on crimson velvet, and -cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of Holland +cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of Holland when his Majesty returned, and had formerly been given by them to our King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her again, was now presented @@ -18123,7 +18080,7 @@ to our Society.<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footno <p>19 June, 1662. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, soon after he had procured the Dukedom to be restored. This gentleman had now compounded a debt -of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much +of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much obliged to that great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I stayed a fortnight.</p> @@ -18304,7 +18261,7 @@ of the Society should be a field argent, with a canton of the arms of England; the supporters two talbots argent; crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "<i>Nullius in -verbâ</i>." It was presented to his Majesty for his approbation, +verbâ</i>." It was presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their office for it.</p> @@ -18334,7 +18291,7 @@ in their faculty.</p> at Rome, and was esteemed a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> -Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astræa, the <a name="tn_png_399"></a><!--TN: Comma changed to a period after "St"-->St. Catherine, +Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astræa, the <a name="tn_png_399"></a><!--TN: Comma changed to a period after "St"-->St. Catherine, and a chimney-piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three dresses, as a @@ -18344,7 +18301,7 @@ Windsor. He had at his house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and, above all, those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates and medals, especially -a Scipio, and a Cæsar's head of gold.</p> +a Scipio, and a Cæsar's head of gold.</p> <p>15th October, 1662. I this day delivered my "Discourse concerning Forest Trees" to the Society, upon occasion @@ -18432,7 +18389,7 @@ Bolton preached in the Abbey Church; then followed the consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, etc. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent dinners that in my life I ever -saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here were the +saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here were the judges, nobility, clergy, and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop being universally beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go @@ -18498,7 +18455,7 @@ train rendered it very extraordinary. Wind music played all the while in the galleries above. This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master of the ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet, -which cost £200, as I was assured.</p> +which cost £200, as I was assured.</p> <p>7th January, 1663. At night I saw the ball, in which his Majesty danced with several great ladies.</p> @@ -18507,7 +18464,7 @@ his Majesty danced with several great ladies.</p> George Tuke's, comedy acted at the Duke's theater, which took so universally, that it was acted for some weeks every day, and it was believed it would be worth -to the comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; +to the comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff and formal.</p> <div class="sidenote">LONDON</div> @@ -18531,7 +18488,7 @@ John Robinson, Lieutenant of the Tower.</p> <p>15th February, 1663. This night some villains broke into my house and study below, and robbed me to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> -value of £60 in plate, money and goods:—this being +value of £60 in plate, money and goods:—this being the third time I have been thus plundered.</p> <p>26th March, 1663. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, @@ -18714,7 +18671,7 @@ venison.</p> <p>16th December, 1663. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, having three locks, and in it -£100 as a gift.</p> +£100 as a gift.</p> <p>18th December, 1663. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty's bedchamber at Whitehall.</p> @@ -19061,7 +19018,7 @@ declared <a name="tn_png_413"></a><!--TN: "againt" changed to "against"-->agains to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz, Sir William Doily, Knt. and Bart., Sir Thomas Clifford, and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; with a -salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries +salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute @@ -19087,7 +19044,7 @@ we returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample hall. The feast was -said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and +said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and came home late.</p> <p>31st October, 1664. I was this day 44 years of age; @@ -19293,7 +19250,7 @@ his "Travels," ii. 433) to be the only one in the whole mausoleum: <div class="centerpoem"> <div class="poem"> -<span class="ia">"<i>Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim</i><br></span> +<span class="ia">"<i>Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim</i><br></span> <span class="i0"><i>Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.</i>"</span> </div></div> </div> @@ -19510,7 +19467,7 @@ was subsequently altered to the form in which it now appears.</p></div> <div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">77</span></a> That is against the King.</p></div> <div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">78</span></a> A monument to him in Deptford Church bears a most pompous inscription: -"<i>Qui fuit patriæ decus, patriæ suæ magnum munimentum</i>;" +"<i>Qui fuit patriæ decus, patriæ suæ magnum munimentum</i>;" to the effect that he had not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful and safe: he was @@ -19549,7 +19506,7 @@ where indicated in the list below:</p> <li><a href="#tn_png_077">Period changed to comma after "considerable" on Page 50</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_084">Colon changed to semicolon after "good" on Page 57</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_087">"Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno" on Page 60</a></li> -<li><a href="#tn_png_087a">"ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" on Page 60</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_087a">"ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" on Page 60</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_093">Period added after "capital" on Page 66</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_095">Comma changed to a period added after "head" on Page 68</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_097">Comma added after "churches" on Page 70</a></li> @@ -19597,7 +19554,7 @@ where indicated in the list below:</p> <li><a href="#tn_png_296a">"taffet" changed to "taffeta" on Page 265</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_300">"Febur's" changed to "Febure's" on Page 269</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_305">"Cromwells" changed to "Cromwell's" on Page 274</a></li> -<li><a href="#tn_png_306">"Condè's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_306">"Condè's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_312">Period added after "1653" on Page 281</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_312a">Period added after "1653" on Page 281</a></li> <li><a href="#tn_png_315">Duplicate "the" removed on Page 284</a></li> @@ -19637,389 +19594,6 @@ where indicated in the list below:</p> </div> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by -John Evelyn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN *** - -***** This file should be named 41218-h.htm or 41218-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/1/41218/ - -Produced by Charlene Taylor, Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, -Linda Hamilton and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet -Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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