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diff --git a/41218-0.txt b/41218-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc77b78 --- /dev/null +++ b/41218-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,15628 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41218 *** + +[Illustration: _CHARLES I. IN PRISON_ + +_Photogravure after De La Roche_] + + + + + THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN + + EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS BY + WILLIAM BRAY + Fellow of the Antiquarian Society + + IN TWO VOLUMES + + VOL. I + + WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION + BY THE EDITOR + + AND A SPECIAL INTRODUCTION BY + RICHARD GARNETT, LL.D. + Of the British Museum + + M. WALTER DUNNE, PUBLISHER + WASHINGTON & LONDON + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1901, + BY + M. WALTER DUNNE, + PUBLISHER + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +VOLUME I. + + CHARLES I. IN PRISON _Frontispiece_ + Photogravure after De La Roche. + + LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683 180 + Photogravure after a painting by Bridges. + + OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON 284 + The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution + of the Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. + Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain after Newenham. + + +VOLUME II. + + THE DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM _Frontispiece_ + From an old painting. + + NELL GWYNNE 64 + Photogravure after Sir Peter Lely. + + + + +EVELYN'S DIARY + + +The two chief diarists of the age of Charles the Second are, _mutatis +mutandis_, not ill characterized by the remark of a wicked wit upon the +brothers Austin. "John Austin," it was said, "served God and died poor: +Charles Austin served the devil, and died rich. Both were clever fellows. +Charles was much the cleverer of the two." Thus John Evelyn and Samuel +Pepys, the former a perfect model of decorum, the latter a grievous +example of indecorum, have respectively left us diaries, of which the +indecorous is to the decorous as a zoölogical garden is to a museum: +while the disparity between the testamentary bequests of the two Austins +but imperfectly represents the reputation standing to Pepys's account +with posterity in comparison with that accruing to his sedate and +dignified contemporary. + +Museums, nevertheless, have their uses, and Evelyn's comparatively jejune +record has laid us under no small obligation. But for Pepys's amazing +indiscretion and garrulity, qualities of which one cannot have too little +in life, or too much in the record of it, Evelyn would have been esteemed +the first diarist of his age. Unable for want of these qualifications to +draw any adequate picture of the stirring life around him, he has +executed at least one portrait admirably, his own. The likeness is, +moreover, valuable, as there is every reason to suppose it typical, and +representative of a very important class of society, the well-bred and +well-conducted section of the untitled aristocracy of England. We may +well believe that these men were not only the salt but the substance of +their order. There was an ill-bred section exclusively devoted to +festivity and sport. There was an ill-conducted section, plunged into the +dissipations of court life. But the majority were men like Evelyn: not, +perhaps, equally refined by culture and travel, or equally interested in +literary research and scientific experiment, but well informed and +polite; no strangers to the Court, yet hardly to be called courtiers, +and preferring country to town; loyal to Church and King but not +fanatical or rancorous; as yet but slightly imbued with the principles of +civil and religious liberty, yet adverse to carry the dogma of divine +right further than the right of succession; fortunate in having survived +all ideas of serfdom or vassalage, and in having few private interests +not fairly reconcilable with the general good. Evelyn was made to be the +spokesman of such a class, and, meaning to speak only for himself, he +delivers its mind concerning the Commonwealth and the Restoration, the +conduct of the later Stuart Kings and the Revolution. + +Evelyn's Diary practically begins where many think he had no business to +be diarising, beyond the seas. The position of a loyalist who solaces +himself in Italy while his King is fighting for his crown certainly +requires explanation: it may be sufficient apology for Evelyn that +without the family estates he could be of no great service to the King, +and that these, lying near London, were actually in the grasp of the +Parliament. He was also but one of a large family and it was doubtless +convenient that one member should be out of harm's way. His three years' +absence (1643-6) has certainly proved advantageous to posterity. Evelyn +is, indeed, a mere sight-seer, but this renders his tour a precise record +of the objects which the sight-seer of the seventeenth century was +expected to note, and a mirror not only of the taste but of the feeling +of the time. There is no cult of anything, but there is curiosity about +everything; there is no perception of the sentiment of a landscape, but +real enjoyment of the landscape itself; antiquity is not unappreciated, +but modern works impart more real pleasure. Of the philosophical +reflections which afterward rose to the mind of Gibbon there is hardly a +vestige, and of course Evelyn is at an immeasurable distance from Byron +and De Staël. But he gives us exactly what we want, the actual attitude +of a cultivated young Englishman in presence of classic and renaissance +art with its background of Southern nature. We may register without undue +self-complacency a great development of the modern world in the +æsthetical region of the intellect, which implies many other kinds of +progress. It is interesting to compare with Evelyn's narrative the +chapters recording the visit to Italy supposed to have been made at this +very period by John Inglesant, who inevitably sees with the eyes of the +nineteenth century. Evelyn's casual remarks on foreign manners and +institutions display good sense, without extraordinary insight; in +description he is frequently observant and graphic, as in his account of +the galley slaves, and of Venetian female costumes. He naturally regards +Alpine scenery as "melancholy and troublesome." + +Returned to England, Evelyn strictly follows the line of the average +English country gentleman, execrating the execution of Charles I., +disgusted beyond measure with the suppression of the Church of England +service, but submissive to the powers that be until there are evident +indications of a change, which he promotes in anything but a Quixotic +spirit. Although he is sincerely attached to the monarchy, the condition +of the Church is evidently a matter of greater concern to him: Cromwell +would have done much to reconcile the royalists to his government, had it +been possible for him to have restored the liturgy and episcopacy. The +same lesson is to be derived from his demeanor during the reigns of +Charles and James. The exultation with which the Restoration is at first +hailed soon evaporates. The scandals of the Court are an offense, +notwithstanding Evelyn's personal attachment to the King. But the chief +point is not vice or favoritism or mismanagement, but alliances with +Roman Catholic powers against Protestant nations. Evelyn is enraged to +see Charles missing the part so clearly pointed out to him by Providence +as the protector of the Protestant religion all over Europe. The +conversion of the Duke of York is a fearful blow, James's ecclesiastical +policy after his accession adds to Evelyn's discontent day by day, while +political tyranny passes almost without remark. At last the old cavalier +is glad to welcome the Prince of Orange as deliverer, and though he has +no enthusiasm for William in his character as King, he remains his +dutiful subject. Just because Evelyn was by no means an extraordinary +person, he represents the plain straightforward sense of the English +gentry. The questions of the seventeenth century were far more religious +than political. The synthesis "Church and King" expressed the dearest +convictions of the great majority of English country families, but when +the two became incompatible they left no doubt which held the first place +in their hearts. They acted instinctively on the principle of the Persian +lady who preferred her brother to her husband. It was not impossible to +find a new King, but there was no alternative to the English Church. + +Evelyn's memoirs thus possess a value far exceeding the modest measure of +worth allowed them by De Quincey: "They are useful as now and then +enabling one to fix the date of a particular event, but for little +besides." The Diary's direct contribution to historical accuracy is +insignificant; it is an index, not to chronological minutiæ, but to the +general progress of moral and political improvement. The editor of 1857 +certainly goes too far in asserting that "All that might have been +excluded from the range of his opinions, his feelings and sympathies +embraced"; but it is interesting to observe the gradual widening of +Evelyn's sympathies with good men of all parties, and to find him in his +latter days criticising the evidence produced in support of the Popish +Plot on the one hand, and deploring the just condemnation of Algernon +Sydney on the other. It is true that, so far as the sufferings of his +country are concerned, his attitude is rather that of the Levite than of +the Samaritan; but more lively popular sympathies would have destroyed +the peculiar value attaching to the testimony of the reluctant witness. +We should, for example, have thought little of such a passage as the +following from the pen of Burnet, from Evelyn it is significant indeed:-- + + _October 14, 1688._--The King's birthday. No guns from the Tower as + usual. The sun eclipsed at its rising. This day signal for the + victory of William the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in + Sussex. The wind, which had been hitherto west, was east all this + day. Wonderful expectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers + ordered to be read in the churches against invasion. + +It might be difficult to produce a nearer approximation in secular +literature to Daniel's "_Mene, Mene, Tekel, Upharsin_." + +There is little else in the Diary equally striking, though Evelyn's +description of Whitehall on the eve of the death of Charles the Second +ranks among the memorable passages of the language. It is nevertheless +full of interesting anecdotes and curious notices, especially of the +scientific research which, in default of any adequate public +organization, was in that age more efficaciously promoted by students +than by professors. De Quincey censures Evelyn for omitting to record the +conversation of the men with whom he associated, but he does not consider +that the Diary in its present shape is a digest of memoranda made long +previously, and that time failed at one period and memory at the other. +De Quincey, whose extreme acuteness was commonly evinced on the negative +side of a question, saw the weak points of the Diary upon its first +publication much more clearly than his contemporaries did, and was +betrayed into illiberality by resentment at what he thought its +undeserved vogue. Evelyn has in truth been fortunate; his record, which +his contemporaries would have neglected, appeared (1818) just in time to +be a precursor of the Anglican movement, a tendency evinced in a similar +fashion by the vindication, no doubt mistaken, of the Caroline authorship +of the "Icon Basilike." Evelyn was a welcome encounter to men of this +cast of thought, and was hailed as a model of piety, culture, and +urbanity, without sufficient consideration of his deficiencies as a +loyalist and a patriot. It also conduced to his reputation that all his +other writings should have virtually perished except his "Sylva," like +his Diary a landmark in the history of improvement, though in a widely +different department. But for his lack of diplomatic talent, he might be +compared with an eminent and much applauded, but in our times somewhat +decrescent, contemporary, Sir William Temple. Both these eminent persons +would have aroused a warmer feeling in posterity, and have effected more +for its instruction and entertainment, if they could occasionally have +dashed their dignity with an infusion of the grotesqueness, we will not +say of Pepys, but of Roger North. To them, however, their dignity was +their character, and although we could have wished them a larger measure +of geniality, we must feel indebted to them for their preservation of a +refined social type. + +[Illustration: Richard Garnett (signature)] + + + + +EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION + + +Evelyn lived in the busy and important times of King Charles I., Oliver +Cromwell, King Charles II., King James II., and King William, and early +accustomed himself to note such things as occurred, which he thought +worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had much personal intercourse +with, the Kings Charles II. and James II.; and he was in habits of great +intimacy with many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and with many +of the eminent men of those days, as well among the clergy as the laity. +Foreigners distinguished for learning, or arts, who came to England, did +not leave it without visiting him. + +The following pages contribute extensive and important particulars of +this eminent man. They show that he did not travel merely to count +steeples, as he expresses himself in one of his Letters: they develop his +private character as one of the most amiable kind. With a strong +predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings Charles +II. and James II., formed when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly +averse to the arbitrary measures of these monarchs. + +Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the Church +of England, he yet felt the most liberal sentiments for those who +differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all +persuasions; nor did he think it necessary to break connection with +anyone who had ever been induced to desert the Church of England, and +embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. In writing to the brother of a +gentleman thus circumstanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in this +admirable manner: "For the rest, we must commit to Providence the success +of times and mitigation of proselytical fervors; having for my own +particular a very great charity for all who sincerely adore the Blessed +Jesus, our common and dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God +(however the present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by others at +the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England may transport +them) will at last compassionate our infirmities, clarify our judgments, +and make abatement for our ignorances, superstructures, passions, and +errors of corrupt times and interests, of which the Romish persuasion can +no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity and secular polity +may pretend. But God will make all things manifest in his own time, only +let us possess ourselves in patience and charity. This will cover a +multitude of imperfections." + +He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general, +admitting that some of the laws enacted against them might be mitigated; +but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, considering them as a +most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes +which befell King James II., and of the horrible persecutions of the +Protestants in France and Savoy. + +He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and address, for he +had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the same time that he +was corresponding with his father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, the +Ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris; and at the same period that he +paid his court to the King, he maintained his intimacy with a disgraced +minister. + +In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for +learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. + +His manners we may presume to have been most agreeable; for his company +was sought by the greatest men, not merely by inviting him to their own +tables, but by their repeated visits to him at his own house; and this +was equally the case with regard to ladies, of many of whom he speaks in +the highest style of admiration, affection, and respect. He was master of +the French, Italian, and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal +is manifest; but at what time he found opportunities for study, it is not +easy to say. He acknowledges himself to have been idle, while at Oxford; +and, when on his travels, he had little time for reading, except when he +stayed about nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was +likewise stationary for several months. At Rome, he remained a +considerable time, but, while there, he was so continually engaged in +viewing the great variety of interesting objects to be seen in that city, +that he could have found little leisure for reading. When resident in +England, he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, +in paying visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever +was deemed worthy of curiosity, or of scientific observation, that it is +astonishing how he found the opportunity to compose the numerous books +which he published, and the much greater number of Papers, on almost +every subject, which still remain in manuscript; to say nothing of the +very extensive and voluminous correspondence which he appears to have +carried on during his long life, with men of the greatest eminence in +Church and State, and the most distinguished for learning, both +Englishmen and foreigners. In this correspondence he does not seem to +have made use of an amanuensis; and he has left transcripts in his own +hand of great numbers of letters both received and sent. He observes, +indeed, in one of these, that he seldom went to bed before twelve, or +closed his eyes before one o'clock. + +He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of an +enlightened mind, who had read much, and was skilled in etching and +painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and a +most affectionate mother. + +His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who settled in +Surrey. John, father of this George, was of Kingston, in 1520, and +married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Long +Ditton, near Kingston, which afterward came in the hands of George, who +there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He purchased very +considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of +three families, viz, Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton; John, at +Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these three families had the +title of Baronet conferred on them at different times, viz, at Godstone, +in 1660; Long Ditton, in 1683; and Wotton, in 1713. + +The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well as at +Long Ditton; but it does not appear that there ever was any mill at +Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a view. + +It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr. Evelyn's +father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudiments of +this son's learning were acquired from the village schoolmaster over the +porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and at +college, he himself speaks with great humility; nor did he add much to +his stock of knowledge, while he resided in the Middle Temple, to which +his father sent him, with the intention that he should apply to what he +calls "an impolished study," which he says he never liked. + +The "Biographia" does not notice his tour in France, Flanders, and +Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a volunteer in an +English regiment then in service in Flanders.[1] Nor does it notice his +having set out, with intent to join King Charles I. at Brentford; and +subsequently desisting when the result of that battle became known, on +the ground that his brother's as well as his own estates were so near +London as to be fully in power of the Parliament, and that their +continued adherence would have been certain ruin to themselves without +any advantage to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he asked and +obtained the King's leave to travel. Of these travels, and the +observations he made therein, an ample account is given in this Diary. + + [Footnote 1: This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the + fact of Evelyn's having witnessed a siege merely as a curious + spectator. He reached the camp on the 2d, and left it on the 8th of + August, 1641. It is certain, however, that during these six days he + took his turn on duty, and trailed a pike.--See Diary.] + +The national troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled plan +for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of living in the +most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he had even +begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he afterward +wholly abandon his intention, if the plan of a college, which he sent to +Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious idea. This scheme is +given at length in the "Biographia," and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the +"Sylva" in 1776; but it may be observed that he proposes it should not be +more than twenty-five miles from London. + +As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in +which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part and urges the preference to +which public employment and an active life is entitled,--it may be +considered as the playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, +would controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his +own opinion; if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham +Cowley, dated 12th March and 24th August, 1666, in the former of which he +writes: "You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name +it affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated recess, and envied it +in others, should become an advocate for the enemy, which of all others +it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am still of the +same mind, and that there is no person alive who does more honor and +breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and advance by +your example; but, as those who praised dirt, a flea, and the gout, so +have I public employment in that trifling Essay, and that in so weak a +style compared with my antagonist's, as by that alone it will appear I +neither was nor could be serious, and I hope you believe I speak my very +soul to you. + + '_Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra mista Camoenis + Otia sunt----_'" + +In the other, he says, "I pronounce it to you from my heart as oft as I +consider it, that I look on your fruitions with inexpressible emulation, +and should think myself more happy than crowned heads, were I, as you, +the arbiter of mine own life, and could break from those gilded toys to +taste your well-described joys with such a wife and such a friend, whose +conversation exceeds all that the mistaken world calls happiness." But, +in truth, Mr. Evelyn's mind was too active to admit of solitude at all +times, however desirable it might appear to him in theory. + +After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Cromwell, he +kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard Browne (his +father-in-law), the King's Ambassador at Paris; and though his connection +must have been known, it does not appear that he met with any +interruption from the government here. Indeed, though he remained a +decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate friends even +among those nearly connected with Cromwell; and to this we may attribute +his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he never did +take. In 1659, he published "An Apology for the Royal Party"; and soon +after printed a paper which was of great service to the King, entitled +"The Late News, or Message from Brussels Unmasked," which was an answer +to a pamphlet designed to represent the King in the worst light. + +On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at Court; and he became +engaged in many public employments, still attending to his studies and +literary pursuits. Among these, is particularly to be mentioned the Royal +Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he took a very active +part. He procured Mr. Howard's library to be given to them; and by his +influence, in 1667, the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the +University of Oxford. + +His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commissioner +for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and +regulating hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a +Commissioner on an inquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, etc., +concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a commission +for regulating the Mint; in the same year was appointed one of the +Commissioners for the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war; and +he was continued in the same employment in the second war with that +country. + +He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathedral, +shortly before it was burned in 1666. In that year he was also in a +commission for regulating the farming and making saltpetre; and in 1671 +we find him a Commissioner of Plantations on the establishment of the +board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 1672. + +In 1685 he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal, during the +absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his going +Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in +1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and, on the 30th of June, 1696, +laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed Treasurer, +with a salary of £200 a year; but he says that it was a long time before +he received any part of it. + +When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, proposing to instruct +himself in the art of shipbuilding, he was desirous of having the use of +Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the King's dockyard at +Deptford. This was conceded; but during his stay he did so much damage +that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of £150 for it. He especially regrets +the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been +thought beyond the reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favorite +recreations had been to demolish the hedges by riding through them in a +wheelbarrow. + +October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying without male +issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate; and in May +following, he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he passed the +remainder of his life, with the exception of occasional visits to London, +where he retained a house. In the great storm of 1703, he mentions in his +last edition of the "Sylva," above one thousand trees were blown down in +sight of his residence. + +He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-6, in the +eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His lady survived +him nearly three years, dying 9th February, 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth +year, and was buried near him at Wotton. + +Of Evelyn's children, a son, who died at the age of five, and a daughter, +who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. The particulars +of their extraordinary endowments, and the profound manner in which he +was affected at their deaths, may be seen in these volumes. + +One daughter was well and happily settled; another less so; but she did +not survive her marriage more than a few months. The only son who lived +to the age of manhood, inherited his father's love of learning, and +distinguished himself by several publications. + +Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner for the care of the Sick and +Wounded was very laborious; and, from the nature of it, must have been +extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labor was in his department, which +included all the ports between the river Thames and Portsmouth; and he +had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the +execution of his office, to which he gave the strictest attention. It +was rendered still more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he +found in procuring money for support of the prisoners. In the library at +Wotton, are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and Officers +of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress of the +poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries for +them. At one time, there were such arrears of payment to the victuallers, +that, on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay some time in the +streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their +houses. After all this trouble and fatigue, he found as great difficulty +in getting his accounts settled.[2] In January, 1665-6, he formed a plan +for an Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid +before the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it; but it does +not appear that it was carried into execution. + + [Footnote 2: 2d October, 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, + Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, + complaining of want of money for the prisoners: praying that while + he and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons and all + that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable service, they may not be + exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning their care; and + adding that they have lost their officers and servants by the + pestilence, and are hourly environed with the saddest objects of + perishing people. "I have," says he, "fifteen places full of sick + men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble; the magistrates and + justices, who should further us in our exigencies, hindering the + people from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and + causing them to shut the doors at our approach."] + +His employments, in connection with the repair of St. Paul's (which, +however, occupied him but a brief time), as in the Commission of Trade +and Plantations, and in the building of Greenwich Hospital, were much +better adapted to his inclinations and pursuits. + +As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of King James II., he +had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to the +Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be affixed to many +things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This, on some +occasions, he refused to do, particularly to a license to Dr. Obadiah +Walker to print Popish books;[3] and on other occasions he absented +himself, leaving it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought +fit. Such, however, was the King's estimation of him, that no displeasure +was evinced on this account. + + [Footnote 3: Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, + but had renounced it, and turned Papist.] + +Of Evelyn's attempt to bring Colonel Morley (Cromwell's Lieutenant of the +Tower, immediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's +interest, an imperfect account is given in the "Biographia." The fact is, +that there was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Evelyn did +endeavor to engage the Colonel in the King's interest. He saw him several +times, and put his life into his hands by writing to him on 12th January, +1659-60; he did not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his friend +to betray him; but so far from the Colonel having settled matters +privately with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper, or General Monk, as there +described, he was obliged, when the Restoration took place, actually to +apply to Evelyn to procure his pardon; who obtained it accordingly, +though, as he states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a large sum of money +for it. This could not have happened, if there had been any previous +negotiation with General Monk. + +Dr. Campbell took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's book, entitled, +"Navigation and Commerce, their Origin and Progress," from the charge of +being an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. +But the Doctor, who had not the information which this Journal so amply +affords on this subject, was not aware that what was so printed was +nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War; a work +undertaken by Evelyn at the express command of King Charles II., and the +materials for which were furnished by the Officers of State. The +completion of this work, after considerable progress had been made in it, +was put a stop to by the King himself, for what reason does not appear; +but perhaps it was found that Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the +truth concerning a transaction, which it will be seen by his Journal that +he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far as he had +proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend, Mr. Pepys, of the +Admiralty, who did not return it; but the books and manuscripts belonging +to Mr. Pepys passed into the possession of Magdalen College, Cambridge. + +From the numerous authors who have spoken in high terms of Mr. Evelyn, we +will select the two following notices of him. + +In the "Biographia Britannica" Dr. Campbell says, "It is certain that +very few authors who have written in our language deserve the character +of able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was +acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, +yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from being +a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had learning; and +he knew how to give all these a proper place in his works, so as never to +pass for a pedant, even with such as were least in love with literature, +and to be justly esteemed a polite author by those who knew it best." + +Horace Walpole (afterward Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue of Engravers, +gives us the following admirably drawn character: "If Mr. Evelyn had not +been an artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, I should yet have +found it difficult to deny myself the pleasure of allotting him a place +among the arts he loved, promoted, patronized; and it would be but +justice to inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, as I +have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise him. But they are +trifling blemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence; and +it may be remarked that the worst I have said of him is, that he knew +more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that +a man's intelligence and philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write +his biography, but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to +eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, +and benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labors of the +creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of +the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from +examination; was a courtier that flattered only by informing his Prince, +and by pointing out what was worthy of him to countenance; and really was +the neighbor of the Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been +the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works will subscribe to +my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of the Royal Society; a +patron of the ingenious and the indigent; and peculiarly serviceable to +the lettered world; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he +obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and the +Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. Nor is it the least part of his +praise, that he who proposed to Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical +College for retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write in +defense of active life against Sir George Mackenzie's 'Essay on +Solitude.' He knew that retirement, in his own hands, was industry and +benefit to mankind; but in those of others, laziness and inutility." + +Evelyn was buried in the Dormitory adjoining Wotton Church. + +On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin, raised about +three feet above the floor, is inscribed: + + Here lies the Body + of JOHN EVELYN, Esq., + of this place, second son + of Richard Evelyn, Esq.; + who having serv'd the Publick + in several employments, of which that + of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the + Reign of King James the 2d was most + honourable, and perpetuated his fame + by far more lasting monuments than + those of Stone or Brass, his learned + and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day + of February 1705-6, being the 86 year + of his age, in full hope of a glorious + Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ. + Living in an age of extraordinary + Events and Revolutions, he learnt + (as himself asserted) this Truth, + which pursuant to his intention + is here declared-- + _That all is vanity which is not honest, + and that there is no solid wisdom + but in real Piety._ + Of five Sons and three Daughters + born to him from his most + vertuous and excellent Wife, + Mary, sole daughter and heiress + of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes + Court near Deptford in Kent, + onely one daughter, Susanna, + married to William Draper + Esq., of Adscomb in this + County, survived him; the + two others dying in the + flower of their age, and + all the Sons very young, except + one named John, who + deceased 24 March, 1698-9, + in the 45 year of his age, + leaving one son, John, and + one daughter, Elizabeth. + + + + +VOLUME I. + +1620-1664 + + +VOLUME II. + +1665-1706 + + + + +DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. + + +I was born at Wotton, in the County of Surrey, about twenty minutes past +two in the morning, being on Tuesday the 31st and last of October, 1620, +after my father had been married about seven years,[4] and that my mother +had borne him three children; viz, two daughters and one son, about the +33d year of his age, and the 23d of my mother's. + + [Footnote 4: He was married at St. Thomas's, Southwark, 27th + January, 1613. My sister Eliza was born at nine at night, 28th + November, 1614; Jane at four in the morning, 16th February, 1616; my + brother George at nine at night, Wednesday, 18th June, 1617; and my + brother Richard, 9th November, 1622.--_Note by Evelyn._] + +[Sidenote: WOTTON] + +My father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash +of choler: his hair inclining to light, which, though exceedingly thick, +became hoary by the time he had attained to thirty years of age; it was +somewhat curled toward the extremities; his beard, which he wore a little +peaked, as the mode was, of a brownish color, and so continued to the +last, save that it was somewhat mingled with gray hairs about his cheeks, +which, with his countenance, were clear and fresh-colored; his eyes +extraordinary quick and piercing; an ample forehead,--in sum, a very +well-composed visage and manly aspect: for the rest, he was but low of +stature, yet very strong. He was, for his life, so exact and temperate, +that I have heard he had never been surprised by excess, being ascetic +and sparing. His wisdom was great, and his judgment most acute; of solid +discourse, affable, humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving, neat, +silent, and methodical genius, discreetly severe, yet liberal upon all +just occasions, both to his children, to strangers, and servants; a lover +of hospitality; and, in brief, of a singular and Christian moderation in +all his actions; not illiterate, nor obscure, as, having continued +Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum, he served his country as High +Sheriff, being, as I take it, the last dignified with that office for +Sussex and Surrey together, the same year, before their separation. He +was yet a studious decliner of honors and titles; being already in that +esteem with his country, that they could have added little to him besides +their burden. He was a person of that rare conversation that, upon +frequent recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and +discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion, or +inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about £4000 per annum, well wooded, +and full of timber. + +My mother's name was Eleanor, sole daughter and heiress of John +Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and honorable family (though now +extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and +well-known house in Sussex. She was of proper personage; of a brown +complexion; her eyes and hair of a lovely black; of constitution more +inclined to a religious melancholy, or pious sadness; of a rare memory, +and most exemplary life; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the +most conspicuous in her country: which rendered her loss much deplored, +both by those who knew, and such as only heard of her. + +Thus much, in brief, touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should +speak less of them to whom I owe so much. + +The place of my birth was Wotton, in the parish of Wotton, or Blackheath, +in the county of Surrey, the then mansion-house of my father, left him by +my grandfather, afterward and now my eldest brother's. It is situated in +the most southern part of the shire; and, though in a valley, yet really +upon part of Leith Hill, one of the most eminent in England for the +prodigious prospect to be seen from its summit, though by few observed. +From it may be discerned twelve or thirteen counties, with part of the +sea on the coast of Sussex, in a serene day. The house is large and +ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed +with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the judgment of +strangers as well as Englishmen it may be compared to one of the most +pleasant seats in the nation, and most tempting for a great person and a +wanton purse to render it conspicuous. It has rising grounds, meadows, +woods, and water, in abundance. + +The distance from London little more than twenty miles, and yet so +securely placed, as if it were one hundred; three miles from Dorking, +which serves it abundantly with provision as well of land as sea; six +from Guildford, twelve from Kingston. I will say nothing of the air, +because the pre-eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being +dry and sandy; but I should speak much of the gardens, fountains, and +groves that adorn it, were they not as generally known to be among the +most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury of the whole +nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that +England afforded; and which indeed gave one of the first examples to that +elegancy, since so much in vogue, and followed in the managing of their +waters, and other elegancies of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity +of five or six manors, the patronage of the livings about it, and what +Themistocles pronounced for none of the least advantages--the good +neighborhood. All which conspire here to render it an honorable and +handsome royalty, fit for the present possessor, my worthy brother, and +his noble lady, whose constant liberality gives them title both to the +place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet: + + _Nescio quâ natale solum dulcedine cunctos + Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui._ + +I had given me the name of my grandfather, my mother's father, who, +together with a sister of Sir Thomas Evelyn, of Long Ditton, and Mr. +Comber, a near relation of my mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity +(yet upon what accident I know not, unless some indisposition in me) was +performed in the dining-room by Parson Higham, the present incumbent of +the parish, according to the forms prescribed by the then glorious Church +of England. + +I was now (in regard to my mother's weakness, or rather custom of persons +of quality) put to nurse to one Peter, a neighbor's wife and tenant, of a +good, comely, brown, wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place +toward the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with streams; the +affection to which kind of solitude I sucked in with my very milk. It +appears, by a note of my father's, that I sucked till 17th of January, +1622, or at least I came not home before.[5] + + [Footnote 5: The whole of this passage, so characteristic of the + writer's tastes and genius, and both the paragraphs before and after + it, are printed for the first time in this edition. Portions of the + preceding description of Wotton are also first taken from the + original; and it may not be out of place to add that, more + especially in the first fifty pages of this volume, a very large + number of curious and interesting additions are made to Evelyn's + text from the Manuscript of the Diary at Wotton.] + +1623. The very first thing that I can call to memory, and from which time +forward I began to observe, was this year (1623) my youngest brother, +being in his nurse's arms, who, being then two days and nine months +younger than myself, was the last child of my dear parents. + +1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments until near four years of +age, and then one Frier taught us at the church-porch of Wotton; and I do +perfectly remember the great talk and stir about Il Conde Gondomar, now +Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was the match of our +Prince with the Infanta proposed); and the effects of that comet, 1618, +still working in the prodigious revolutions now beginning in Europe, +especially in Germany, whose sad commotions sprang from the Bohemians' +defection from the Emperor Matthias; upon which quarrel the Swedes broke +in, giving umbrage to the rest of the princes, and the whole Christian +world cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying perfect tranquillity. + +1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of King Charles) sent +by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be with my grandfather, Standsfield, +with whom I passed my childhood. This was the year in which the +pestilence was so epidemical, that there died in London 5,000 a week, and +I well remember the strict watches and examinations upon the ways as we +passed; and I was shortly after so dangerously sick of a fever that (as I +have heard) the physicians despaired of me. + +1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell, no ill painter. + +1627. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on the 5th of +February: I remember perfectly the solemnity at his funeral. He was +buried in the parish church of All Souls, where my grandmother, his +second wife, erected him a pious monument. About this time, was the +consecration of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, +Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was afterward minister); +the building whereof was chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having +the impropriation, gave £20 a year out of it to this church. I afterward +sold the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the building of +the church. + +1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn my Latin +rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very +well remember that general muster previous to the Isle of Rhè's +expedition, and that I was one day awakened in the morning with the news +of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton, after our +disgrace before La Rochelle. And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to +drawing and designing, that I could never after wean my inclinations from +it, to the expense of much precious time, which might have been more +advantageously employed. I was now put to school to one Mr. Potts, in the +Cliff at Lewes, from whom, on the 7th of January, 1630, being the day +after Epiphany, I went to the free-school at Southover, near the town, of +which one Agnes Morley had been the foundress, and now Edward Snatt was +the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the University.[6] +This year, my grandmother (with whom I sojourned) being married to one +Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gentleman, we went from the +Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover. I do most perfectly remember +the jubilee which was universally expressed for the happy birth of the +Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now Charles II., our most gracious +Sovereign. + + [Footnote 6: Long afterward, Evelyn was in the habit of paying great + respect to his old teacher.] + +1631. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in England, corn bearing +an excessive price; and, in imitation of what I had seen my father do, I +began to observe matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in +a blank almanac. The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment for many shameful +exorbitances was now all the talk, and the birth of the Princess Mary, +afterward Princess of Orange. + +21st October, 1632. My eldest sister was married to Edward Darcy, Esq., +who little deserved so excellent a person, a woman of so rare virtue. I +was not present at the nuptials; but I was soon afterward sent for into +Surrey, and my father would willingly have weaned me from my fondness of +my too indulgent grandmother, intending to have placed me at Eton; but, +not being so provident for my own benefit, and unreasonably terrified +with the report of the severe discipline there, I was sent back to Lewes; +which perverseness of mine I have since a thousand times deplored. This +was the first time that ever my parents had seen all their children +together in prosperity. While I was now trifling at home, I saw London, +where I lay one night only. The next day, I dined at Beddington, where I +was much delighted with the gardens and curiosities. Thence, we returned +to the Lady Darcy's, at Sutton; thence to Wotton; and, on the 16th of +August following, 1633, back to Lewes. + +3d November, 1633. This year my father was appointed Sheriff, the last, +as I think, who served in that honorable office for Surrey and Sussex, +before they were disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one +liveried in green satin doublets; divers gentlemen and persons of quality +waited on him in the same garb and habit, which at that time (when thirty +or forty was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great +matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my father exceeded (who +was one of the greatest decliners of it); but because he could not refuse +the civility of his friends and relations, who voluntarily came +themselves, or sent in their servants. But my father was afterward most +unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering judge, Richardson, for +reprieving the execution of a woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then +Admiral: but out of this he emerged with as much honor as trouble. The +king made this year his progress into Scotland, and Duke James was born. + +15th December, 1634: My dear sister, Darcy, departed this life, being +arrived to her 20th year of age; in virtue advanced beyond her years, or +the merit of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to bed +the 2d of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the 24th of +December. I was therefore sent for home the second time, to celebrate the +obsequies of my sister; who was interred in a very honorable manner in +our dormitory joining to the parish church, where now her monument +stands. + +1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously sick, I was, on the 3d of +September following, sent for to Wotton. Whom I found so far spent, that, +all human assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner departed this +life upon the 29th of the same month, about eight in the evening of +Michaelmas-day. It was a malignant fever which took her away, about the +37th of her age, and 22d of her marriage, to our irreparable loss and the +regret of all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible cause of her +indisposition proceeded from grief upon the loss of her daughter, and the +infant that followed it; and it is as certain, that when she perceived +the peril whereto its excess had engaged her, she strove to compose +herself and allay it; but it was too late, and she was forced to succumb. +Therefore summoning all her children then living (I shall never forget +it), she expressed herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so +pious and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary +loss then imminent; after which, embracing every one of us she gave to +each a ring with her blessing and dismissed us. Then, taking my father by +the hand, she recommended us to his care; and, because she was extremely +zealous for the education of my younger brother, she requested my father +that he might be sent with me to Lewes; and so having importuned him that +what he designed to bestow on her funeral, he would rather dispose among +the poor, she labored to compose herself for the blessed change which she +now expected. There was not a servant in the house whom she did not +expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her counsel. Thus +she continued to employ her intervals, either instructing her relations, +or preparing of herself. + +Though her physicians, Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, had given +over all hopes of her recovery, and Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his +celebrated and famous powder, yet she was many days impairing, and +endured the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable patience +and most Christian resignation, retaining both her intellectuals and +ardent affections for her dissolution, to the very article of her +departure. When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of +her children; and taking solemn leave of my father, with elevated heart +and eyes, she quietly expired, and resigned her soul to God. Thus ended +that prudent and pious woman, in the flower of her age, to the +inconsolable affliction of her husband, irreparable loss of her children, +and universal regret of all that knew her. She was interred, as near as +might be, to her daughter Darcy, the 3d of October, at night, but with no +mean ceremony. + +It was the 3d of the ensuing November, after my brother George was gone +back to Oxford, ere I returned to Lewes, when I made way, according to +instructions received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was sent +the 12th after. + +1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence much increased in +London, and divers parts of England. + +13th February, 1637: I was especially admitted (and, as I remember, my +other brother) into the Middle Temple, London, though absent, and as yet +at school. There were now large contributions to the distressed +Palatinates. + +The 10th of December my father sent a servant to bring us necessaries, +and the plague beginning now to cease, on the 3d of April, 1637, I left +school, where, till about the last year, I have been extremely remiss in +my studies; so as I went to the University rather out of shame of abiding +longer at school, than for any fitness, as by sad experience I found: +which put me to re-learn all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily +gained. + +[Sidenote: OXFORD] + +10th May, 1637. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of Baliol College, +Oxford; and, on the 29th, I was matriculated in the vestry of St. Mary's, +where I subscribed the Articles, and took the oaths: Dr. Baily, head of +St. John's, being vice-chancellor, afterward bishop. It appears by a +letter of my father's, that he was upon treaty with one Mr. Bathurst +(afterward Doctor and President), of Trinity College, who should have +been my tutor; but, lest my brother's tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in +his life than industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an affront, +and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol were no more exempt +from exercise than the meanest scholars there, my father sent me thither +to one Mr. George Bradshaw (_nomen invisum!_ yet the son of an excellent +father, beneficed in Surrey). I ever thought my tutor had parts enough; +but as his ambition made him much suspected of the College, so his grudge +to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterward supplanted), took +up so much of his time, that he seldom or never had the opportunity to +discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, associated myself +with one Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of the foundation, +afterward a Fellow of the house), by whose learned and friendly +conversation I received great advantage. At my first arrival, Dr. +Parkhurst was master: and after his decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of +his Majesty's and Margaret Professor, succeeded, an acute and learned +person; nor do I much reproach his severity, considering that the +extraordinary remissness of discipline had (till his coming) much +detracted from the reputation of that College. + +There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel Conopios, out of +Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of Constantinople, who, returning many +years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the +first I ever saw drink coffee; which custom came not into England till +thirty years after.[7] + + [Footnote 7: Evelyn should have said "till twenty years after," not + thirty. Coffee was introduced into England, and coffee-houses set + up, in 1658.] + +After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was the +University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William +Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor +to the library of the College, these books--"_ex dono Johannis Evelyni, +hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, è com. Surriæ, +armig^r_."-- + +"_Zanchii Opera_," vols. 1, 2, 3. + +"_Granado in Thomam Aquinatem_," vols. 1, 2, 3. + +"_Novarini Electa Sacra_" and "_Cresolii Anthologia Sacra_"; authors, it +seems, much desired by the students of divinity there. + +Upon the 2d of July, being the first Sunday of the month, I first +received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord's Supper in the college +chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow of the house, preaching; and at this +time was the Church of England in her greatest splendor, all things +decent, and becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed. The most +of the following week I spent in visiting the Colleges, and several +rarities of the University, which do very much affect young comers. + +18th July, 1637. I accompanied my eldest brother, who then quitted +Oxford, into the country; and, on the 9th of August, went to visit my +friends at Lewes, whence I returned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th of +September, I received the blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and 23d of +October went back to Oxford. + +5th November, 1637. I received again the Holy Communion in our college +chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad one), preaching. + +9th December, 1637. I offered at my first exercise in the Hall, and +answered my opponent; and, upon the 11th following, declaimed in the +chapel before the Master, Fellows, and Scholars, according to the custom. +The 15th after, I first of all opposed in the Hall. + +The Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the gentlemen of Exeter +College presented to the University, and standing, for the better +advantage of seeing, upon a table in the Hall, which was near to another, +in the dark, being constrained by the extraordinary press to quit my +station, in leaping down to save myself I dashed my right leg with such +violence against the sharp edge of the other board, as gave me a hurt +which held me in cure till almost Easter, and confined me to my study. + +22d January, 1638. I would needs be admitted into the dancing and +vaulting schools; of which late activity one Stokes, the master, did +afterward set forth a pretty book, which was published, with many witty +elogies before it. + +4th February, 1638. One Mr. Wariner preached in our chapel; and, on the +25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman of the Earl of Strafford; after which +followed the blessed Sacrament. + +13th April, 1638. My father ordered that I should begin to manage my own +expenses, which till then my tutor had done; at which I was much +satisfied. + +[Sidenote: PORTSMOUTH] + +9th July, 1638. I went home to visit my friends, and, on the 26th, with +my brother and sister to Lewes, where we abode till the 31st; and thence +to one Mr. Michael's, of Houghton, near Arundel, where we were very well +treated; and, on the 2d of August, to Portsmouth, and thence, having +surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity in that blessed halcyon time +in England), we passed into the Isle of Wight, to the house of my Lady +Richards, in a place called Yaverland; but were turned the following day +to Chichester, where, having viewed the city and fair cathedral, we +returned home. + +About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted with a quartan ague, +that I could by no means get rid of it till the December following. This +was the fatal year wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon +the pretense of the introduction of some new ceremonies and the Book of +Common Prayer, and madly began our confusions, and their own destruction, +too, as it proved in event. + +14th January, 1639. I came back to Oxford, after my tedious +indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time; and now I began to +look upon the rudiments of music, in which I afterward arrived to some +formal knowledge, though to small perfection of hand, because I was so +frequently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles. + +20th May, 1639. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafford (who afterward being +my fellow-traveler in Italy, there changed his religion), I took a +journey of pleasure to see the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, +Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other towns of lesser note; and returned +the 25th. + +8th October, 1639. I went back to Oxford. + +14th December, 1639. According to injunctions from the Heads of Colleges, +I went (among the rest) to the Confirmation at St. Mary's, where, after +sermon, the Bishop of Oxford laid his hands upon us, with the usual form +of benediction prescribed: but this received (I fear) for the more part +out of curiosity, rather than with that due preparation and advice which +had been requisite, could not be so effectual as otherwise that admirable +and useful institution might have been, and as I have since deplored it. + +21st January, 1640. Came my brother, Richard, from school, to be my +chamber-fellow at the University. He was admitted the next day and +matriculated the 31st. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +11th April, 1640. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Majesty's +riding through the city in state to the Short Parliament, which began the +13th following,--a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled +with his royal diadem and the affections of his people: but the day after +I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my father's indisposition +suffering great intervals, till April 27th, when I was sent to London to +be first resident at the Middle Temple: so as my being at the University, +in regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to me. Upon May +the 5th following, was the Parliament unhappily dissolved; and, on the +20th I returned with my brother George to Wotton, who, on the 28th of the +same month, was married at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of an +ancient Leicestershire family, where part of the nuptials were +celebrated). + +10th June, 1640. I repaired with my brother to the term, to go into our +new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-court), being a very handsome +apartment just over against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, +which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much +contribute to the love of that impolished study, to which (I suppose) my +father had designed me, when he paid £145 to purchase our present lives, +and assignments afterward. + +London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent +disorders, and great insolences were committed by the abused and too +happy City: in particular, the Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lambeth +was assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark, my Lord Chamberlain +imprisoned and many scandalous libels and invectives scattered about the +streets, to the reproach of Government, and the fermentation of our since +distractions: so that, upon the 25th of June, I was sent for to Wotton, +and the 27th after, my father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of +the physicians he repaired to the Bath. + +7th July, 1640. My brother George and I, understanding the peril my +father was in upon a sudden attack of his infirmity, rode post from +Guildford toward him, and found him extraordinary weak; yet so as that, +continuing his course, he held out till the 8th of September, when I +returned home with him in his litter. + +15th October, 1640. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas Term. + +30th December, 1640. I saw his Majesty (coming from his Northern +Expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a +happy peace, restored to the affections of his people, being conducted +through London with a most splendid cavalcade; and on the 3d of November +following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse), to that long +ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our +sorrows for twenty years after, and the period of the most happy monarch +in the world: _Quis talia fando!_ + +But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy, an indisposition +the most unsuspected, being a person so exemplarily temperate, and of +admirable regimen, hastened me back to Wotton, December the 12th; where, +the 24th following, between twelve and one o'clock at noon, departed this +life that excellent man and indulgent parent, retaining his senses and +piety to the last, which he most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom +he now left to the world and the worst of times, while he was taken from +the evil to come. + +1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the year, when on the 2d +of January, 1640-1, we at night followed the mourning hearse to the +church at Wotton; when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the +minister, my father was interred near his formerly erected monument, and +mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear wife. Thus we were bereft +of both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of +their counsel and assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, +uncertain, and very unwary inclination: but so it pleased God to make +trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious +hazard that ever the youth of England saw; and, if I did not amidst all +this impeach my liberty nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of +both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the least +providence or discretion of mine own, who now thought of nothing but the +pursuit of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. + +15th April, 1641. I repaired to London to hear and see the famous trial +of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who, on the 22d of +March, had been summoned before both Houses of Parliament, and now +appeared in Westminster-hall,[8] which was prepared with scaffolds for +the Lords and Commons, who, together with the King, Queen, Prince, and +flower of the noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest +malice and the greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrous an +assembly. It was Thomas, Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of +England, who was made High Steward upon this occasion; and the sequel is +too well known to need any notice of the event. + + [Footnote 8: On the 15th of April Strafford made his eloquent + defense, which it seems to have been Evelyn's good fortune to be + present at. And here the reader may remark the fact, not without + significance, that between the entries on this page of the Diary + which relate to Lord Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over + to make love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old; and that + the marriage was subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court + rejoicings and festivities, in which the King took a prominent part, + during the short interval which elapsed between the sentence and + execution of the King's great and unfortunate minister.] + +On the 27th of April, came over out of Holland the young Prince of +Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love to his Majesty's eldest +daughter, the now Princess Royal. + +That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of the Duke of Richmond, +who was carried in effigy, with all the ensigns of that illustrious +family, in an open chariot, in great solemnity, through London to +Westminster Abbey. + +On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fatal stroke which severed +the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, +whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law or statute, a new +one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction. With what +reluctancy the King signed the execution, he has sufficiently expressed; +to which he imputes his own unjust suffering--to such exorbitancy were +things arrived. + +On the 24th of May, I returned to Wotton; and, on the 28th of June, I +went to London with my sister, Jane, and the day after sat to one +Vanderborcht for my picture in oil, at Arundel-house, whose servant that +excellent painter was, brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from +Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary, with great pomp and +charge, though without any effect, through the artifice of the Jesuited +Spaniard who governed all in that conjuncture). With Vanderborcht, the +painter, he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, who engraved +not only the unhappy Deputy's trial in Westminster-hall, but his +decapitation; as he did several other historical things, then relating to +the accidents happening during the Rebellion in England, with great +skill; besides many cities, towns, and landscapes, not only of this +nation, but of foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons then +in being; and things designed from the best pieces of the rare paintings +and masters of which the Earl of Arundel was possessor, purchased and +collected in his travels with incredible expense: so as, though Hollar's +were but etched in aquafortis, I account the collection to be the most +authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the son of a gentleman near +Prague, in Bohemia, and my very good friend, perverted at last by the +Jesuits at Antwerp to change his religion; a very honest, simple, +well-meaning man, who at last came over again into England, where he +died. We have the whole history of the king's reign, from his trial in +Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration of King Charles II., +represented in several sculptures, with that also of Archbishop Laud, by +this indefatigable artist; besides innumerable sculptures in the works of +Dugdale, Ashmole, and other historical and useful works. I am the more +particular upon this for the fruit of that collection, which I wish I had +entire. + +This picture[9] I presented to my sister, being at her request, on my +resolution to absent myself from this ill face of things at home, which +gave umbrage to wiser than myself that the medal was reversing, and our +calamities but yet in their infancy: so that, on the 15th of July, having +procured a pass at the Custom-house, where I repeated my oath of +allegiance, I went from London to Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. +Caryll, a Surrey gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived by six +o'clock that evening, with a purpose to take the first opportunity of a +passage for Holland. But the wind as yet not favorable, we had time to +view the Block-house of that town, which answered to another over against +it at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous of Queen Elizabeth, in the year +1588, which we found stored with twenty pieces of cannon, and other +ammunition proportionable. On the 19th of July, we made a short excursion +to Rochester, and having seen the cathedral went to Chatham to see the +Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel of burden lately built there, being +for defense and ornament, the richest that ever spread cloth before the +wind. She carried an hundred brass cannon, and was 1,200 tons; a rare +sailer, the work of the famous Phineas Pett, inventor of the +frigate-fashion of building, to this day practiced. But what is to be +deplored as to this vessel is, that it cost his Majesty the affections of +his subjects, perverted by the malcontent of great ones, who took +occasion to quarrel for his having raised a very slight tax for the +building of this, and equipping the rest of the navy, without an act of +Parliament; though, by the suffrages of the major part of the Judges the +King might legally do in times of imminent danger, of which his Majesty +was best apprised. But this not satisfying a jealous party, it was +condemned as unprecedented, and not justifiable as to the Royal +prerogative; and, accordingly, the Judges were removed out of their +places, fined, and imprisoned.[10] + + [Footnote 9: His own portrait.] + + [Footnote 10: In such manner Evelyn refers to the tax of Ship-money. + But compare this remarkable passage, now first printed from the + original, with the tone in which, eight years later, he spoke of the + only chance by which monarchy in England might be saved; namely, + that of "doing nothing as to government but what shall be approved + by the old way of a free parliament, and the known laws of the + land."] + +We returned again this evening, and on the 21st of July embarked in a +Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, convoyed and accompanied by five other +stout vessels, whereof one was a man-of-war. The next day at noon, we +landed at Flushing. + +[Sidenote: DE VERE] + +Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,[11] which was then before Genep, +ere the summer should be too far spent, we went this evening from +Flushing to Middleburg, another fine town in this island, to De Vere, +whence the most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their +family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the state during their +wars. From De Vere we passed over many towns, houses, and ruins of +demolished suburbs, etc., which have formerly been swallowed up by the +sea; at what time no less than eight of those islands had been +irrecoverably lost. + + [Footnote 11: The meaning of this expression is, that they should be + in time to witness the siege.] + +The next day we arrived at Dort, the first town of Holland, furnished +with all German commodities, and especially Rhenish wines and timber. It +hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable church; a +stately senate house, wherein was holden that famous synod against the +Arminians in 1618; and in that hall hangeth a picture of "The Passion," +an exceeding rare and much-esteemed piece. + +From Dort, being desirous to hasten toward the army, I took wagon this +afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we were hurried in less than an hour, +though it be ten miles distant; so furiously do those Foremen drive. I +went first to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the +public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They showed us his house, +or rather the mean cottage, wherein he was born, over which there are +extant these lines, in capital letters: + + ÆDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS + ARTIBUS INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE. + +The 26th of July I passed by a straight and commodious river through +Delft to the Hague; in which journey I observed divers leprous poor +creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the brink of the water, and +permitted to ask the charity of passengers, which is conveyed to them in +a floating box that they cast out. + +Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of Bohemia's court, where +I had the honor to kiss her Majesty's hand, and several of the +Princesses', her daughters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out +of Germany; and my Lord Finch, not long before fled out of England from +the fury of the Parliament. It was a fasting day with the Queen for the +unfortunate death of her husband, and the presence chamber had been hung +with black velvet ever since his decease. + +[Sidenote: NIMEGUEN] + +The 28th of July I went to Leyden; and the 29th to Utrecht, being thirty +English miles distant (as they reckon by hours). It was now Kermas, or a +fair, in this town, the streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so +that early the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop's court, +and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curiosity till my return, and +better leisure. We then came to Rynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a +neat and well built palace, or country house, after the Italian manner, +as I remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon which this villa is +situated, lodged that night in a countryman's house. The 31st to +Nimeguen; and on the 2d of August we arrived at the Leagure, where was +then the whole army encamped about Genep, a very strong castle situated +on the river Waal; but, being taken four or five days before, we had only +a sight of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons +performed in Colonel Goring's regiment (eldest son of the since Earl of +Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned Roman, and +father-confessor to the Queen-mother). The evening was spent in firing +cannon and other expressions of military triumphs. + +Now, according to the compliment, I was received a volunteer in the +company of Captain Apsley, of whose Captain-lieutenant, Honywood (Apsley +being absent), I received many civilities. + +The 3d of August, at night, we rode about the lines of circumvallation, +the general being then in the field. The next day I was accommodated with +a very spacious and commodious tent for my lodging; as before I was with +a horse, which I had at command, and a hut which during the excessive +heats was a great convenience; for the sun piercing the canvas of the +tent, it was during the day unsufferable, and at night not seldom +infested with mists and fogs, which ascended from the river. + +6th August, 1641. As the turn came about, we were ordered to watch on a +horn-work near our quarters, and trail a pike, being the next morning +relieved by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the +castle was refortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured; +whence I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not far from our +quarters, where we found both the chapel and refectory full, crowded with +the goods of such poor people as at the approach of the army had fled +with them thither for sanctuary. On the day following, I went to view all +the trenches, approaches, and mines, etc. of the besiegers; and, in +particular, I took special notice of the wheel-bridge, which engine his +Excellency had made to run over the moat when they stormed the castle; as +it is since described (with all the other particulars of this siege) by +the author of that incomparable work, "Hollandia Illustrata." The walls +and ramparts of earth, which a mine had broken and crumbled, were of +prodigious thickness. + +Upon the 8th of August, I dined in the horse-quarters with Sir Robert +Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, and divers Cavaliers; where +there was very good cheer, but hot service for a young drinker, as then I +was; so that, being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies +and sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called, where +their quarters and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so +exactly observed, as few cities, the best governed in time of peace, +exceed it for all conveniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and +Camerades; and, on the 12th of August, I embarked on the "Waal," in +company with three grave divines, who entertained us a great part of our +passage with a long dispute concerning the lawfulness of church-music. We +now sailed by Teil, where we landed some of our freight; and about five +o'clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that had divers +English in garrison. It stands upon Contribution-land, which subjects the +environs to the Spanish incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong +fort called Lovestein, famous for the escape of the learned Hugo Grotius, +who, being in durance as a capital offender, as was the unhappy +Barneveldt, by the stratagem of his lady, was conveyed in a trunk +supposed to be filled with books only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong +and considerable frontier. + +13th August, 1641. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was their annual +mart or fair, so furnished with pictures (especially landscapes and +drolleries, as they call those clownish representations), that I was +amazed. Some of these I bought and sent into England. The reason of this +store of pictures, and their cheapness, proceeds from their want of land +to employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find a common +farmer lay out two or three thousand pounds in this commodity. Their +houses are full of them, and they vend them at their fairs to very great +gains. Here I first saw an elephant, who was extremely well disciplined +and obedient. It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as flexible and +nimble in the joints, contrary to the vulgar tradition, as could be +imagined from so prodigious a bulk and strange fabric; but I most of all +admired the dexterity and strength of its proboscis, on which it was able +to support two or three men, and by which it took and reached whatever +was offered to it; its teeth were but short, being a female, and not old. +I was also shown a pelican, or _onocratulas_ of Pliny, with its large +gullets, in which he kept his reserve of fish; the plumage was white, +legs red, flat, and film-footed, likewise a cock with four legs, two +rumps and vents: also a hen which had two large spurs growing out of her +sides, penetrating the feathers of her wings. + +17th August, 1641. I passed again through Delft, and visited the church +in which was the monument of Prince William of Nassau,--the first of the +Williams, and savior (as they call him) of their liberty, which cost him +his life by a vile assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting +of several figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the same +place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor, Maurice. The +senate-house hath a very stately portico, supported with choice columns +of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs +a weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which the +adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to wear on her +shoulders, her head peeping out at the top only, and so led about the +town, as a penance for her incontinence. From hence, we went the next day +to Ryswick, a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, for nothing +more remarkable than the delicious walks planted with lime trees, and the +modern paintings within. + +[Sidenote: HAGUE] + +[Sidenote: AMSTERDAM] + +19th August, 1641. We returned to the Hague, and went to visit the Hoff, +or Prince's Court, with the adjoining gardens full of ornament, close +walks, statues, marbles, grots, fountains, and artificial music. There is +to this palace a stately hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, +hung round with colors and other trophies taken from the Spaniards;[12] +and the sides below are furnished with shops. Next day (the 20th) I +returned to Delft, thence to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, where +immediately I mounted a wagon, which that night, late as it was, brought +us to Haerlem. About seven in the morning after I came to Amsterdam, +where being provided with a lodging, the first thing I went to see was a +Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday), whose ceremonies, ornaments, +lamps, law, and schools, afforded matter for my contemplation. The women +were secluded from the men, being seated in galleries above, shut with +lattices, having their heads muffled with linen, after a fantastical and +somewhat extraordinary fashion; the men, wearing a large calico mantle, +yellow colored, over their hats, all the while waving their bodies, while +at their devotions. From thence, I went to a place without the town, +called Overkirk, where they have a spacious field assigned them to bury +their dead, full of sepulchers with Hebraic inscriptions, some of them +stately and costly. Looking through one of these monuments, where the +stones were disjointed, I perceived divers books and papers lie about a +corpse; for it seems, when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his +books with him. With the help of a stick, I raked out several, written in +Hebrew characters, but much impaired. As we returned, we stepped in to +see the Spin-house, a kind of bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd +women are kept in discipline and labor, but all neat. We were shown an +hospital for poor travelers and pilgrims, built by Queen Elizabeth of +England; and another maintained by the city. + + [Footnote 12: Westminster hall used to be so in Term time, and + during the sitting of Parliament, as late as the beginning of the + reign of George III.] + +The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be perfected, will +be one of the most costly and magnificent pieces of architecture in +Europe, especially for the materials and the carvings. In the Doole is +painted, on a very large table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported +by four royal diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who hath set his name +thereon, 1st September, 1638. + +On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presbyterian congregation, +where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be sung, so +that all the congregation might see them without the bidding of a clerk. +I was told, that after such an age no minister was permitted to preach, +but had his maintenance continued during life. + +I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous to converse with the +sectaries that swarmed in this city, out of whose spawn came those almost +innumerable broods in England afterward. It was at a Brownist's house, +where we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my +Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee. Here I also found an +English Carmelite, who was going through Germany with an Irish gentleman. +I now went to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, +for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and poor children, where +they are taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to +housewifery, that men of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, +frequently take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the Rasp-house, +where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; and the rasping of brasil +and logwood for the dyers is very hard labor. To the Dool-house, for +madmen and fools. But none did I so much admire, as an Hospital for their +lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accommodations are very +great, the building answerable; and, indeed, for the like public +charities the provisions are admirable in this country, where, as no idle +vagabonds are suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child +of four or five years old, but they find some employment for it. + +It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse, or Exchange, after +their sermons were ended, to see the Dog-market, which lasts till two in +the afternoon, in this place of convention of merchants from all parts of +the world. The building is not comparable to that of London, built by +that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in one respect exceeding it, +that vessels of considerable burden ride at the very quay contiguous to +it; and indeed it is by extraordinary industry that as well this city, as +generally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs, +cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that nothing is more +frequent than to see a whole navy, belonging to this mercantile people, +riding at anchor before their very doors: and yet their streets even, +straight, and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with lime +trees, as nothing can be more beautiful. + +The next day we were entertained at a kind of tavern, called the +Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper rooms of +the house, were divers pretty waterworks, rising 108 feet from the +ground. Here were many quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, +noises of beasts, and chirping of birds; but what pleased me most was a +large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets, furnished all +with ordinary candles to appearance, out of the wicks spouting out +streams of water, instead of flames. This seemed then and was a rarity, +before the philosophy of compressed air made it intelligible. There was +likewise a cylinder that entertained the company with a variety of +chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of porcelain dishes, suited +to the tones and notes, without cracking any of them. Many other +waterworks were shown. + +The Kaiser's or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample and long street, +appearing like a city in a forest; the lime trees planted just before +each house, and at the margin of that goodly aqueduct so curiously +wharfed with Klincard brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which +nothing can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is built and +gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense charge, and +fitted for the most busy concourse of traffickers and people of commerce +beyond any place, or mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of +entrance into an issue of this town, composed of very magnificent pieces +of architecture, some of the ancient and best manner, as are divers +churches. + +The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular manner and +invention; the chimes of bells are so rarely managed, that being curious +to know whether the motion was from any engine, I went up to that of St. +Nicholas, where I found one who played all sorts of compositions from the +tablature before him, as if he had fingered an organ; for so were the +hammers fastened with wires to several keys put into a frame twenty feet +below the bells, upon which (by the help of a wooden instrument, not much +unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck on the keys +and played to admiration. All this while, through the clattering of the +wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, and noise that his wooden +gloves made, the confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the +musician, or any that stood near him, to hear anything at all; yet, to +those at a distance, and especially in the streets, the harmony and the +time were the most exact and agreeable. + +The south church is richly paved with black and white marble,--the west +is a new fabric; and generally all the churches in Holland are furnished +with organs, lamps, and monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and +impiety of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported them +in other places rather to act like madmen than religious. + +[Sidenote: HAERLEM] + +Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went among the booksellers, and visited the +famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop, to buy some maps, atlases, and other +works of that kind. At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells +and Indian curiosities; and so, toward the end of August, I returned +again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in length, straight as a line, +and of competent breadth for ships to sail by one another. They showed us +a cottage where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her +twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was prohibited to marry in +future; yet it could not be proved that she had ever made away with any +of her husbands, though the suspicion had brought her divers times to +trouble. + +Haerlem is a very delicate town and hath one of the fairest churches of +the Gothic design I had ever seen. There hang in the steeple, which is +very high, two silver bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in +Egypt, by an earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they are rung +out every evening. In the nave hang the goodliest branches of brass for +tapers that I have seen, esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the +workmanship; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not find they made +use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing psalms, +but only for show, and to recreate the people before and after their +devotions, while the burgomasters were walking and conferring about their +affairs. Near the west window hang two models of ships, completely +equipped, in memory of that invention of saws under their keels, with +which they cut through the chain of booms, which barred the port of +Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market, and made some +inquiry about the printing-house, the invention whereof is said to have +been in this town, I returned to Leyden. + +[Sidenote: LEYDEN] + +At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very +steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon, on +his return out of England, as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden +inundations. + +The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies buried the learned +and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without any extraordinary inscription, +who, having left the world a monument of his worth more lasting than +marble, needed nothing more than his own name; which I think is all +engraven on his sepulcher. He left his library to this University. + +28th August, 1641. I went to see the college and schools, which are +nothing extraordinary, and was complimented with a _matricula_ by the +_magnificus_ Professor, who first in Latin demanded of me where my +lodging in the town was, my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I +addicted myself; then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an +oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders of the +University while I stayed, and then delivered me a ticket, by virtue +whereof I was made excise-free; for all which worthy privileges, and the +pains of writing, he accepted of a rix-dollar. + +Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so longed to see, as well +as the no less famous printer, Elzevir's printing-house and shop, +renowned for the politeness of the character and editions of what he has +published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, well stored with +exotic plants, if the catalogue presented to me by the gardener be a +faithful register. + +But, among all the rarities of this place, I was much pleased with a +sight of their anatomy-school, theater, and repository adjoining, which +is well furnished with natural curiosities; skeletons, from the whale and +elephant to the fly and spider; which last is a very delicate piece of +art, to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender an insect) +could be separated from the mucilaginous parts of that minute animal. +Among a great variety of other things, I was shown the knife newly taken +out of a drunken Dutchman's guts, by an incision in his side, after it +had slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The pictures of the +chirurgeon and his patient, both living, were there. + +There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted. + +Returning to my lodging, I was showed the statue, cut in stone, of the +happy monk, whom they report to have been the first inventor of +typography, set over the door; but this is much controverted by others, +who strive for the glory of it, besides John Gutenberg. + +I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew, who had married an +apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions: he told me, among +other things, that the World should never end; that our souls +transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did penance +in the bodies of brutes after death,--and so he interpreted the +banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar: that all the Jews should +rise again, and be led to Jerusalem; that the Romans only were the +occasion of our Savior's death, whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be +a great prophet, but not the Messiah. He showed me several books of their +devotion, which he had translated into English, for the instruction of +his wife; he told me that when the Messiah came, all the ships, barks, +and vessels of Holland should, by the power of certain strange +whirlwinds, be loosed from their anchors, and transported in a moment to +all the desolate ports and havens throughout the world, wherever the +dispersion was, to convey their brethren and tribes to the Holy City; +with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow, but would by +no means handle any money (for something I purchased of him), it being +Saturday; but desired me to leave it in the window, meaning to receive it +on Sunday morning. + +1st September, 1641. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two days after +back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of horseman's armor, which I caused +to be made to fit me. I now rode out of town to see the monument of the +woman, pretended to have been a countess of Holland, reported to have had +as many children at one birth, as there are days in the year. The basins +were hung up in which they were baptized, together with a large +description of the matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in the +church of Lysdun, a desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to see one +of the Prince's Palaces, called the Hoff Van Hounsler's Dyck, a very fair +cloistered and quadrangular building. The gallery is prettily painted +with several huntings, and at one end a gordian knot, with rustical +instruments so artificially represented, as to deceive an accurate eye to +distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of the staircase is +painted with the "Rape of Ganymede," and other pendant figures, the work +of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which I +afterward parted with to my brother George of Wotton, where it now hangs. +To this palace join a fair garden and park, curiously planted with limes. + +8th September, 1641. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delftshaven and +Sedan, where were at that time Colonel Goring's winter quarters. This +town has heretofore been very much talked of for witches. + +10th September, 1641. I took a wagon for Dort, to be present at the +reception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager of France, widow +of Henry the Great, and mother to the French King, Louis XIII., and the +Queen of England, whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the +various fortune of her life. From this city, she designed for Cologne, +conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr Van Bredrod. At this +interview, I saw the Princess of Orange, and the lady her daughter, +afterward married to the House of Brandenburgh. There was little +remarkable in this reception befitting the greatness of her person; but +an universal discontent, which accompanied that unlucky woman wherever +she went. + +12th September, 1641. I went toward Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on the +16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing, with innumerable +hands, and incomparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the +fens and morasses about it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and +the like; in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe. Here +were now sixteen companies and nine troops of horse. They were also +cutting a new river, to pass from the town to a castle not far from it. +Here we split our skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of +the master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little hazard. At our +arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the Governor, where our names were +taken, and our persons examined very strictly. + +17th September, 1641. I was permitted to walk the round and view the +works, and to visit a convent of religious women of the order of St. +Clara (who by the capitulation were allowed to enjoy their monastery and +maintenance undisturbed, at the surrender of the town twelve years +since), where we had a collation and very civil entertainment. They had a +neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleves, their founder, +lies inhumed under a plate of brass. Within the cloister is a garden, and +in the middle of it an overgrown lime tree, out of whose stem, near the +root, issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or bolls, the like +whereof for evenness and height I had not observed. + +The chief church of this city is curiously carved within and without, +furnished with a pair of organs, and a most magnificent font of copper. + +18th September, 1641. I went to see that most impregnable town and fort +of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one Colonel Crombe, the +lieutenant-governor, who would needs make me accept the honor of being +captain of the watch, and to give the word this night. The fortification +is very irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for strength +and situation in the Netherlands. We departed toward Gorcum. Here Sir +Kenelm Digby, traveling toward Cologne, met us. + +The next morning, the 19th, we arrived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, +where they catch innumerable quantities of fowl. + +[Sidenote: ROTTERDAM] + +22d September, 1641. I went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass which I +expected from Brussels, securing me through Brabant and Flanders, +designing to go into England through those countries. The Cardinal +Infante, brother to the King of Spain, was then governor. By this pass, +having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon the 24th of +September I departed through Dort; but met with very bad tempestuous +weather, being several times driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor +off Keele, other vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and +26th we made other essays; but were again repulsed to the harbor, where +lay sixty vessels waiting to sail. But, on the 27th, we, impatient of the +time and inhospitableness of the place, sailed again with a contrary and +impetuous wind and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy; for we had much +ado to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking desperately on +our vessel: we were driven into Williamstadt, a place garrisoned by the +English, where the governor had a fair house. The works, and especially +the counterscarp, are curiously hedged with quick, and planted with a +stately row of limes on the rampart. The church is of a round structure, +with a cupola, and the town belongs entirely to the Prince of Orange, as +does that of Breda, and some other places. + +28th September, 1641. Failing of an appointment, I was constrained to +return to Dort for a bill of exchange; but it was the 1st of October ere +I could get back. At Keele, I numbered 141 vessels, who durst not yet +venture out; but, animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small +encounter of weather, we arrived by four that evening at Steenbergen. In +the passage we sailed over a sea called the Plaats, an exceeding +dangerous water, by reason of two contrary tides which meet there very +impetuously. Here, because of the many shelves, we were forced to tide it +along the Channel; but, ere we could gain the place, the ebb was so far +spent, that we were compelled to foot it at least two long miles, through +a most pelting shower of rain. + +2d October, 1641. With a gentleman of the Rhyngraves, I went in a cart, +or tumbrel (for it was no better; no other accommodation could be +procured), of two wheels and one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting by the +way divers parties of his Highness's army now retiring toward their +winter quarters; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands along the harbor. +The fort was heretofore built by the English. + +The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of horse +which was offered me. The tide being against us, we landed short of the +fort on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could +gain the dyke, which, being five or six miles from Lillo, we were forced +to walk on foot very wet and discomposed; and then entering a boat we +passed the ferry, and came to the castle. Being taken before the +Governor, he demanded my pass, to which he set his hand, and asked two +rix-dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbitant in a +soldier of his quality. I told him that I had already purchased my pass +of the commissaries at Rotterdam; at which, in a great fury, snatching +the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, and +bade me try whether I could get to Antwerp without his permission: but I +had no sooner given him the dollars, then he returned the passport +surlily enough, and made me pay fourteen Dutch shillings to the cantone, +or searcher, for my contempt, which I was glad to do for fear of further +trouble, should he have discovered my Spanish pass, in which the States +were therein treated by the name of rebels. Besides all these exactions, +I gave the commissary six shillings, to the soldiers something, and, ere +perfectly clear of this frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war, +who lay blocking up the river between Lillo and the opposite sconce +called Lifkinshoeck. + +[Sidenote: ANTWERP] + +4th October, 1641. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of one of +which, St. Mary's port, came a Don on board us, to whom I showed my +Spanish pass, which he signed, and civilly dismissed us. Hence, sailing +by another man-of-war, to which we lowered our topsails, we at length +arrived at Antwerp. + +The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little time; +but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner, our conductor, we visited divers +churches, colleges, and monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most +sumptuous and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and within, wholly +incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished into divers representations of +histories, landscapes, and flowers. On the high altar is placed the +statue of the Blessed Virgin and our Savior in white marble, with a boss +in the girdle set with very fair and rich sapphires, and divers other +stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of architecture: the +pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and +rare pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive tables and +relics. Hence, to the Vroù Kirk, or Nôtre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very +venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, +which I ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent; +which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly bright, and +darted his rays without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection +to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water +about it, that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of +some such substance as this earthly globe: perceiving all the subjacent +country, at so small an horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as +I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other large water +within our view, appeared of a more dark and uniform color; resembling +those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, according to Hevelius, +and as they appear in our late telescopes. I numbered in this church +thirty privileged altars, that of St. Sebastian adorned with a painting +of his martyrdom. + +We went to see the Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by one +who, upon divers great wagers, passed to and fro between that city and +Antwerp, on foot, by which he procured large sums of money, which he +bestowed on this pious structure.[13] Hence, to St. Mary's Chapel, where +I had some conference with two English Jesuits, confessors to Colonel +Jaye's regiment. These fathers conducted us to the Cloister of Nuns, +where we heard a Dutch sermon upon the exposure of the Host. The +Senate-house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent building. + + [Footnote 13: This notice, slipped by accident into the entries + which refer to Antwerp, belongs to those of Bruges.] + +5th October, 1641. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of +their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided into four +classes, with several inscriptions over each: as, first, _Ad majorem Dei +gloriam_; over the second, _Princeps diligentiæ_; the third, _Imperator +Byzantiorum_; over the fourth and uppermost, _Imperator Romanorum_. Under +these, the scholars and pupils and their places, or forms with titles and +priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings +above were exceedingly neat. They have a prison for the offenders and +less diligent; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves in, is an +aviary, and a yard, where eagles, vultures, foxes, monkeys, and other +animals are kept, to divert the boys withal at their hours of remission. +To this school join the music and mathematical schools, and lastly a +pretty, neat chapel. The great street is built after the Italian mode, in +the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix of white and black +marble, greater than the life. This is a very fair and noble street, +clean, well paved, and sweet to admiration. + +The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a stately +palace, adorned with more than 300 windows. From hence, walking into the +Gun-garden, I was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is permitted +to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern fortification, +accommodated with lodgments for the soldiers and magazines. The graffs, +ramparts, and platforms are stupendous. Returning by the shop of +Plantine, I bought some books, for the namesake only of that famous +printer. + +But there was nothing about this city which more ravished me than those +delicious shades and walks of stately trees, which render the fortified +works of the town one of the sweetest places in Europe; nor did I ever +observe a more quiet, clean, elegantly built and civil place, than this +magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. In the evening, I was invited to +Signor Duerte's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, +whose palace I found to be furnished like a prince's. His three daughters +entertained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental, which was +finished with a handsome collation. I took leave of the ladies and of +sweet Antwerp, as late as it was, embarking for Brussels on the Scheldt +in a vessel, which delivered us to a second boat (in another river) drawn +or towed by horses. In this passage, we frequently changed our barge, by +reason of the bridges thwarting our course. Here I observed numerous +families inhabiting their vessels and floating dwellings, so built and +divided by cabins, as few houses on land enjoyed better accommodation; +stored with all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlor, and +kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing. The rivers on which +they are drawn are very clear and still waters, and pass through a most +pleasant country on both the banks. We had in our boat a very good +ordinary, and excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for twenty +English miles. What I much admired was, near the midway, another +artificial river, which intersects this at right angles, but on an +eminence of ground, and is carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above +the other as that the waters neither mingle, nor hinder one another's +passage. + +We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the passengers went on +shore to wash at a fountain issuing out of a pillar, and then came +aboard again. On the margin of this long tract are abundance of shrines +and images, defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone +wherein they are placed. + +[Sidenote: BRUSSELS] + +7th October, 1641. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the morning. The +Stadt-house, near the market place, is, for the carving in freestone, a +most laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The +flesh-shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small +engines, by which a girl, or boy, was able to draw up, or let down, great +bridges, which in divers parts of this city crossed the channel for the +benefit of passengers. The walls of this town are very entire, and full +of towers at competent distances. The cathedral is built upon a very high +and exceeding steep ascent, to which we mounted by fair steps of stone. +Hence I walked to a convent of English Nuns, with whom I sat discoursing +most part of the afternoon. + +8th October, 1641. Being the morning I came away, I went to see the +Prince's Court, an ancient, confused building, not much unlike the Hofft, +at the Hague: there is here likewise a very large hall, where they vend +all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed +rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or catafalque, of +the late Archduchess, the wise and pious Clara Eugenia. Out of this we +were conducted to the lodgings, tapestried with incomparable arras, and +adorned with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breugel, +Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late actions in the +Netherlands. + +By an accident we could not see the library. There is a fair terrace +which looks to the vineyard, in which, on pedestals, are fixed the +statues of all the Spanish kings of the house of Austria. The opposite +walls are painted by Rubens, being an history of the late tumults in +Belgia: in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of gates +upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and in a menacing posture; +which, with that other of the Infanta taking leave of Don Philip IV., is +a most incomparable table. + +From hence, we walked into the park, which for being entirely within the +walls of the city is particularly remarkable: nor is it less pleasant +than if in the most solitary recesses; so naturally is it furnished with +whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. Here is a +stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, rocks, +grots; one whereof is composed of the extravagant roots of trees, +cunningly built and hung together with wires. In this park are both +fallow and red deer. + +From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of that into a most +sweet and delicious garden, where was another grot of more neat and +costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us with +artificial music; but the hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which +the fountaineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, exceedingly +pleased and surprised me; for thus, with a pervious wall, or rather a +palisade hedge of water, was the whole parterre environed. + +There is likewise a fair aviary; and in the court next it are kept divers +sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl, as eagles, cranes, storks, +bustards, pheasants of several kinds, and a duck having four wings. In +another division of the same close are rabbits of an almost perfect +yellow color. + +There was no Court now in the palace; the Infante Cardinal, who was the +Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one in deep +mourning. + +At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's agent, Sir Henry de +Vic, who very courteously received me, and accommodated me with a coach +and six horses, which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to +meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who had requested me +when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went not thither myself. + +Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full of gallant +persons (for in this small city, the acquaintance being universal, ladies +and gentlemen, I perceived had great diversions, and frequent meetings), +I hastened toward Ghent. On the way, I met with divers little wagons, +prettily contrived, and full of peddling merchandise, drawn by mastiff +dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach horses; in some four, in +others six, as in Brussels itself I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I +remember, four dogs draw five lusty children in a chariot: the master +commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streets. +After passing through Ouse, by six in the evening, I arrived at Ghent. +This is a city of so great a circumference, that it is reported to be +seven leagues round; but there is not half of it now built, much of it +remaining in fields and desolate pastures even within the walls, which +have strong gates toward the west, and two fair churches. + +Here I beheld the palace wherein John of Gaunt and Charles V. were born; +whose statue[14] stands in the market-place, upon a high pillar, with his +sword drawn, to which (as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were +wont to repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about their +necks, in token of submission and penance for an old rebellion of theirs; +but now the hemp is changed into a blue ribbon. Here is planted the +basilisco, or great gun, so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt +meeting in this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands, which are +united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I supped +with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest. + + [Footnote 14: That of Charles V.] + +8th October, 1641. I passed by a boat to Bruges, taking in at a redoubt a +convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the other side of the river, being +Contribution-land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the +bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis Spinola, and +is in my judgment a wonderful piece of labor, and a worthy public work, +being in some places forced through the main rock, to an incredible +depth, for thirty miles. At the end of each mile is built a small +redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, +from whence we received many volleys of shot, in compliment to my Lord +Marshal, who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At five that +evening, we were met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey +my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained that night. + +The morning after we went to see the Stadt-house and adjoining aqueduct, +the church, and market-place, where we saw cheeses and butter piled up in +heaps; also the fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large. + +The 9th, we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial river. Here, +with leave of the captain of the watch, I was carried to survey the +river and harbor, with fortifications on one side thereof: the east and +south are mud and earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately +stood a memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks, and three +days. I went to see the church of St. Peter, and the cloisters of the +Franciscans. + +10th October, 1641. I went by wagon, accompanied with a jovial +commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On +our arrival, we first viewed the court of guards, the works, the +townhouse, and the new church; the latter is very beautiful within; and +another, wherein they showed us an excellent piece of "Our Savior's +Bearing the Cross." The harbor, in two channels, coming up to the town, +was choked with a multitude of prizes. + +From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles toward the packet +boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns, which embarked us for England +about three in the afternoon. + +[Sidenote: DOVER] + +At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace anchored saluted my +Lord Marshal with twelve great guns, which we answered with three. Not +having the wind favorable, we anchored that night before Calais. About +midnight, we weighed; and, at four in the morning, though not far from +Dover, we could not make the pier till four that afternoon, the wind +proving contrary and driving us westward: but at last we got on shore, +October the 12th. + +From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. Here I visited the +cathedral, then in great splendor; those famous windows being entire, +since demolished by the fanatics. The next morning by Sittingbourne, I +came to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light-horseman (as +they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From +hence, after we had a little refreshed ourselves at the College (for by +reason of contagion then in London we balked the inns), we came to +London, landing at Arundel stairs. Here I took leave of his Lordship, and +retired to my lodgings in the Middle Temple, being about two in the +morning, the 14th of October. + +16th October, 1641. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of +that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the +23d), I was one and twenty years of age. + +7th November, 1641. After receiving the Sacrament at Wotton church, I +visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. + +23d November, 1641. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his +Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of Scotland, and a +Peace proclaimed, with great acclamations and joy of the giddy people. + +15th December, 1641. I was elected one of the Comptrollers of the Middle +Temple revellers, as the fashion of the young students and gentlemen was, +the Christmas being kept this year with great solemnity; but, being +desirous to pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of +office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton. + +10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton, of Ditton. + +19th January, 1642. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th of March, +studying a little, but dancing and fooling more. + +3d October, 1642. To Chichester, and hence the next day to see the siege +of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody difference between the King and +Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many years +after. It was on the day of its being rendered to Sir William Waller; +which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Colonel Goring, the +governor, now embarking for France. This day was fought that signal +battle at Edgehill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester, where I +visited the castle, school, church, and King Arthur's Round Table; but +especially the church, and its Saxon kings' monuments, which I esteemed a +worthy antiquity. + +The 12th of November was the battle of Brentford, surprisingly fought; +and to the great consternation of the City, had his Majesty (as it was +believed he would) pursued his advantage. I came in with my horse and +arms just at the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than the +15th, by reason of the army marching to Gloucester; which would have left +both me and my brothers exposed to ruin, without any advantage to his +Majesty. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +7th December, 1642. I went from Wotton to London, to see the so much +celebrated line of communication, and on the 10th returned to Wotton, +nobody knowing of my having been in his Majesty's army. + +10th March, 1643. I went to Hartingford-berry to visit my cousin, +Keightly. + +11th March, 1643. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at +Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the house (inferior +to few then in England for its architecture), were the garden and +vineyard, rarely well watered and planted. They also showed us the +picture of Secretary Cecil, in Mosaic work, very well done by some +Italian hand. + +I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the night before, namely, +a shining cloud in the air, in shape resembling a sword, the point +reaching to the north; it was as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky +being very serene. It began about eleven at night, and vanished not till +above one, being seen by all the south of England. I made many journeys +to and from London. + +15th April, 1643. To Hatfield, and near the town of Hertford I went to +see Sir J. Harrison's house new built. Returning to London, I called to +see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theobald's, since demolished by +the rebels. + +2d May, 1643. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw the furious and +zealous people demolish that stately Cross in Cheapside. + +On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the confusion that +threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in some quiet, if it might be, +in a time of so great jealousy, I built by my brother's permission, a +study, made a fish-pond, an island, and some other solitudes and +retirements at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving them to +those waterworks and gardens which afterward succeeded them, and became +at that time the most famous of England. + +12th July, 1643. I sent my black menage horse and furniture with a friend +to his Majesty, then at Oxford. + +23d July, 1643. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself; but, +finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and +which had been a great cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between +Wotton and London, October the 2d, I obtained a license of his Majesty, +dated at Oxford and signed by the King, to travel again. + +6th November, 1643. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph +Whitfield's, at Blechingley (whither both my brothers had conducted me), +I arrived at London on the 7th, and two days after took boat at the +Tower-wharf, which carried me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without +danger, I being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm: but +it pleased God that we got in before the peril was considerable. From +thence, I went by post to Dover, accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a +very dear friend of mine. + +11th November, 1643. Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather +was snowy and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went +on shore, mistaking the tide, our shallop struck on the sands, with no +little danger; but at length we got off. + +Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place, in the old +castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The haven consists of a long +bank of sand, lying opposite to it. The market place and the church are +remarkable things, besides those relics of our former dominion there. I +remember there were engraven in stone, upon the front of an ancient +dwelling which was showed us, these words in English--"God save the +King," together with the name of the architect and date. The walls of the +town are substantial; but the situation toward the land is not pleasant, +by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it. + +12th November, 1643. After dinner we took horse with the Messagere, +hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; but there fell so great a +snow, accompanied with hail, rain, and sudden darkness, that we had much +ado to gain the next village; and in this passage, being to cross a +valley by a causeway, and a bridge built over a small river, the rain +that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for near a quarter of a +mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perishing. We +none of us went to bed; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in +the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morning, +between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early, we arrived at +Boulogne. + +This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high rock, or downs; +the other, called the lower town, is yet with a great declivity toward +the sea; both of them defended by a strong castle, which stands on a +notable eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet but an +inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII., in the siege of this place is said to +have used those great leathern guns which I have since beheld in the +Tower of London, inscribed, "_Non Marte opus est cui non deficit +Mercurius_"; if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert +doubts. + +The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish] surprising us, we +came to Montreuil, built on the summit of a most conspicuous hill, +environed with fair and ample meadows; but all the suburbs had been from +time to time ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads. +This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches; the walls about +the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. The church is more +glorious without than within; the market place large; but the inhabitants +are miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville, having passed all +this way in continual expectation of the volunteers, as they call them. +This town affords a good aspect toward the hill from whence we descended: +nor does it deceive us; for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant +and useful streams passing through it, the main river being the Somme, +which discharges itself into the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the +town. The principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic +architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted for defense and +ornament. In the morning, they brought us choice of guns and pistols to +sell at reasonable rates, and neatly made, being here a merchandise of +great account, the town abounding in gunsmiths. + +[Sidenote: ST. DENIS] + +[Sidenote: PARIS] + +Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good note, and having the +first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to +Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great +city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathedral, and the +dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed as ours at Westminster +Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in Europe. The church +was built by King Dagobert,[15] but since much enlarged, being now 390 +feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without comprehending the +cover: it has also a very high shaft of stone, and the gates are of +brass. Here, while the monks conducted us, we were showed the ancient and +modern sepulchers of their kings, beginning with the founder to Louis his +son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and father of Charlemagne. These +lie in the choir, and without it are many more: among the rest that of +Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France; in the chapel of Charles V., +all his posterity; and near him the magnificent sepulcher of Francis I., +with his children, wars, victories, and triumphs engraven in marble. In +the nave of the church lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII., +Henry II., a noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are bodies +of several Saints; below, under a state of black velvet, the late Louis +XIII., father of this present monarch. Every one of the ten chapels, or +oratories, had some Saints in them; among the rest, one of the Holy +Innocents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in which are +crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of +gold three feet high, set with sapphires, rubies, and great oriental +pearls. Another given by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in +the middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value. Among the still +more valuable relics are, a nail from our Savior's Cross, in a box of +gold full of precious stones; a crucifix of the true wood of the Cross, +carved by Pope Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold; a +box in which is some of the Virgin's hair; some of the linen in which our +blessed Savior was wrapped at his nativity; in a huge reliquary, modeled +like a church, some of our Savior's blood, hair, clothes, linen with +which he wiped the Apostles' feet; with many other equally authentic +toys, which the friar who conducted us would have us believe were +authentic relics. Among the treasures is the crown of Charlemagne, his +seven-foot high scepter and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal +mantle, beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of +gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious stones, among which +is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carats (under +which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Savior's crown), his +sword, seal, and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his +scepter, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his son Louis. In +the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby. Divers +books covered with solid plates of gold, and studded with precious +stones. Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed for its +bigness, color, and embossed carving, the best now to be seen: by a +special favor I was permitted to take the measure and dimensions of it; +the story is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus; a very holy thing +truly, and fit for a cloister! It is really antique, and the noblest +jewel there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge urn of +porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx, the largest I had ever +seen of that stone; two of crystal; a morsel of one of the waterpots in +which our Savior did his first miracle; the effigies of the Queen of +Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon +sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians: that of the queen of Saba[16] +has a Moorish face; those of Julius and Nero on agates are rarely colored +and cut. A cup in which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a +great amethyst. There lay in a window a mirror of a kind of stone said to +have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charlemagne's chessmen, full of Arabic +characters. In the press next the door, the brass lantern full of +crystals, said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our +blessed Savior. A fair unicorn's horn, sent by a king of Persia, about +seven feet long. In another press (over which stands the picture in oil +of their Orleans Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French +kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes; with a +world of other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous friar, we took +horse for Paris, where we arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way +were fair crosses of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong's +end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his head after +martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We +lay at Paris at the Ville de Venice; where, after I had something +refreshed, I went to visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident +with the French king. + + [Footnote 15: A. D. 630.] + + [Footnote 16: Or Sheba.] + +5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary: +I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsieur +de Bassompière, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, +and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the +ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais +Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French king, and the +queen Regent his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence, +I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took my leave. + +24th December, 1643. I went with some company to see some remarkable +places without the city: as the Isle, and how it is encompassed by the +Rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is divided into three parts, whereof +the town is greatest. The city lies between it and the University in form +of an island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun +by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV. his successor. It is all of +hewn freestone found under the streets, but more plentifully at +Montmartre, and consists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the +point of an island, on which are built handsome artificers' houses. There +is one large passage for coaches, and two for foot passengers three or +four feet higher, and of convenient breadth for eight or ten to go +abreast. On the middle of this stately bridge, on one side, stands the +famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural +proportion by much; and, on the four faces of a stately pedestal (which +is composed of various sorts of polished marbles and rich moldings), +inscriptions of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in +brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of the great John di +Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the +Second, uncle and cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of King Henry, +whose statue it represents. The place where it is erected is inclosed +with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always +mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a +rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du +Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on +the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the +woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very rare +dial of several motions, with a chime, etc. The water is conveyed by huge +wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence +of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the +bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there +are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built, +with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. +Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of +wood, having likewise a water house in the midst of it, and a statue of +Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior +to the Samaritan. + +The University lies southwest on higher ground, contiguous to, but the +lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no less than sixty-five colleges; but +they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The +booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more +hereafter) are very regular. + +The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St. +Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and +where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly +Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are +built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most gallant +cities in the world; large in circuit, of a round form, very populous, +but situated in a bottom, environed with gentle declivities, rendering +some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled +with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot +square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London. + +On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre Dame, erected by +Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists +of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in +the church round about the choir, without comprehending the chapels, +being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The choir is inclosed with +stonework graven with the sacred history, and contains forty-five chapels +chancelled with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in +relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to the +founder, Philip; and above them are two high square towers, and another +of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the +church forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps, having +twelve galleries from one to the other. They greatly reverence the +crucifix over the screen of the choir, with an image of the Blessed +Virgin. There are some good modern paintings hanging on the pillars. The +most conspicuous statute is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher; +with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects and rocks, about this +gigantic piece; being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulk than +any other perfection. This is the prime church of France for dignity, +having archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good store, +to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the archbishop. The young +king was there with a great and martial guard, who entered the nave of +the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was +entertained with the church music; and so I left him. + +4th January, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr. J. Wall, an Irish +gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain, and afterward a reader in St. +Isodore's chair, at Rome; but was, I know not how, getting away, and +pretending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as +he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. It is certain he was an +excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could pass +him. He would needs persuade me to go with him this morning to the +Jesuits' College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers +in their Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them showed us that +noble fabric, which for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of marble, the +pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatorium, etc., but +above all, for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to be +one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even +some of the greatest now at Rome itself. But this not being what our +friar sought, he led us into the adjoining convent, where, having shown +us the library, they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity, +which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and to that +indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, +they being put beside all patience. The next day, we went into the +University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious, +well-built quadrangle, having a very noble library. + +Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one Robert de +Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restoration which the late +Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent +modern buildings; the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far +superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the +church, are very magnificent. + +We entered into some of the schools, and in that of divinity we found a +grave Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as +he dictates; and this they call a Course. After we had sat a little, our +cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the doctor; +at which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in +Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell +into such a fit of laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a +while: but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and made his +apology in so good a style, that their derision was turned to admiration; +and beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with universal +applause they all rose up, and did him great honors, waiting on us to the +very street and our coach, and testifying great satisfaction. + +2d February, 1644. I heard the news of my nephew George's birth, which +was on January 15th, English style, 1644. + +3d February, 1644. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the +buildings is very noble; but the galleries where they sell their petty +merchandise nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place +where they walk below, being only a low vault. + +The Palaise, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip +the Fair, noble and spacious. The great Hall annexed to it, is arched +with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round which, and at +the sides, are shops of all kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is +full of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here (as ours at +Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which mass is said +daily. Within are several chambers, courts, treasuries, etc. Above that +is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the chamber of St. +Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament sits, richly gilt +on embossed carvings and frets, and exceedingly beautified. + +Within the place where they sell their wares, is another narrower +gallery, full of shops and toys, etc., which looks down into the +prison-yard. Descending by a large pair of stairs, we passed by Sainte +Chapelle, which is a church built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic +manner: it stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by +pillars at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extraordinary in +the artist. This chapel is most famous for its relics, having as they +pretend, almost the entire crown of thorns: the agate patine, rarely +sculptured, judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was now a +very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is very spacious, capable +of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shops, especially +engravers', goldsmiths', and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and +portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, +whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by goldsmiths. +Within the court are private dwellings. The front, looking on the great +bridge, is possessed by mountebanks, operators, and puppet-players. On +the other part, is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, +especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange trees, choice shrubs. Here is a +shop called NOAH'S ARK, where are sold all curiosities, natural or +artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, +ivory, porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand +exotic extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dauphine, an arch +of excellent workmanship; the street bearing the same name, is ample and +straight. + +4th February, 1644. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are a noble +church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templar, now +converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large +and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable +palaces. + +The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, dedicated to +another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the +English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands +on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons +regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle of stately +palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area, stands on a +noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in +imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as +that on the Pont Neuf. + +The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honoré, is an excellent +foundation; but above all is the Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre +Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité +gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the +sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by +noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and +fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great success, +yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to have been built by Julius +Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong +prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent. + +8th February, 1644. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine +Royale, which is an inclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of +ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, +having in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and +is richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre is a +fair fountain. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, +and other accommodations for the President, who is always one of the +king's chief physicians. + +From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and to some distance +from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which is the +fortress, tower, and magazine of this great city. It is very spacious +within, and there the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with +fair gardens and walks. + +The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle, with +magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting the chapel. +It is the chief prison for persons of quality. About it there is a park +walled in, full of deer; and in one part there is a grove of goodly pine +trees. + +The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its several +courts and pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Henry IV., and +finished by his son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The +cornices, moldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several +colored marbles, have been of great expense. + +We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble, +richly fretted and painted _à fresco_. The front looking to the river, +though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which +a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it. + +In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the winding geometrical +stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble a piece of +architecture as any in Europe of the kind. To this is a _corps de logis_, +worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings, through a garden in +which is an ample fountain, was the king's printing house, and that +famous letter so much esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic +authors, poets, and others. + +We returned through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where hung +the pictures of all the kings and queens and prime nobility of France. + +Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large room, called the +_Salle des Antiques_, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destined for statues +only, among which stands that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said +to be the same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. Besides +these colossean figures of marble, I must not forget the huge globe +suspended by chains. The pavings, inlayings, and incrustations of this +Hall, are very rich. + +In another more private garden toward the Queen's apartment is a walk, or +cloister, under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a great +breadth; it looks toward the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, +stately cypresses, etc. On the river are seen a prodigious number of +barges and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, and +other commodities, which this vast city daily consumes. Under the long +gallery we have described, dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and +architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom have +stipends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur Saracin we +entered, who was then molding for an image of a Madonna to be cast in +gold of a great size to be sent by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an +offering for the birth of the Dauphin, now the young King. + +I finished this day with a walk in the great garden of the Tuileries, +rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by groves, plantations +of tall trees, especially that in the middle, being of elms, the other of +mulberries; and that labyrinth of cypresses; not omitting the noble +hedges of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; but, above +all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so distinctly; and, as it +is never without some fair nymph singing to its grateful returns; +standing at one of the focuses, which is under a tree or little cabinet +of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds; at another, as if +it was underground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we were let +into another, which being kept with all imaginary accurateness as to the +orangery, precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a +terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think +could be maintained in the whole city, going, late as it was in the year, +toward the course, which is a place adjoining, of near an English mile +long, planted with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the +middle. This course is walled about, near breast high, with squared +freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and +statues about it, built by Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants +and ladies of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with us in +Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing a hundred coaches to +turn commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for five or six +coaches abreast. + +Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in which are kept wild +beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, +etc. + +[Sidenote: ST. CLOUD] + +27th February, 1644. Accompanied with some English gentlemen, we took +horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately country house of the King, +some five leagues from Paris. By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud, +where, on an eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a +garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and +furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are very fair; +the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water +near forty feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and +basins, and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed than the +cascade falling from the great steps into the lowest and longest walk +from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on +the summit of the hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to +wet the spectators; this is covered with a fair cupola, the walls painted +with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are +antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to +enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious +contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer +walls only painted _à fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues +of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, +mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under +shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, +with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well painted; and thence +an excellent prospect toward Paris, the meadows, and river. + +At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the great persons in +princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I +have done. Indeed, the entertainment is very splendid, and not +unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat, +and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revelings, as +being out of all noise and observance. + +[Sidenote: ST. GERMAINS] + +From hence, about a league further, we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's +villa, at Ruell. The house is small, but fairly built, in form of a +castle, moated round. The offices are toward the road, and over against +it are large vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the +greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I doubt whether +Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities of pleasure. The garden +nearest the pavilion is a parterre, having in the midst divers noble +brass statues, perpetually spouting water into an ample basin, with other +figures of the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast +inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing +vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof one is of perennial +greens), and walks of vast length, so accurately kept and cultivated, +that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a +square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the +fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move +round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the +Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the +end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large +as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in +painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The sky and hills, +which seem to be between the arches, are so natural, that swallows and +other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the +wall. I was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the further +part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial cascade, which +rolls down a very steep declivity, and over the marble steps and basins, +with an astonishing noise and fury; each basin hath a jetto in it, +flowing like sheets of transparent glass, especially that which rises +over the great shell of lead, from whence it glides silently down a +channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk, terminating in a +grotto. Here are also fountains that cast water to a great height, and +large ponds, two of which have islands for harbor of fowls, of which +there is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them built of +vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, grown over with moss, ivy, +etc., shaded at a competent distance with tall trees: in this rupellary +nidary do the fowl lay eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare +grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild fancies: in +the middle stands a marble table, on which a fountain plays in divers +forms of glasses, cups, crosses, fans, crowns, etc. Then the fountaineer +represented a shower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below. +At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a stream of water +from their musket barrels. Before this grotto is a long pool into which +ran divers spouts of water from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this +paradise made us late at St. Germains. + +The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called the Sage; but +Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it complete; speaking as to the +style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too great a mixture +of the Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in the +old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old foundation, and having +a moat about it. It has yet some spacious and handsome rooms of state, +and a chapel neatly painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided +from this by a court, of a lower, but more modern design, built by Henry +IV. To this belong six terraces, built of brick and stone, descending in +cascades toward the river, cut out of the natural hill, having under them +goodly vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots and +rocks, where are represented several objects in the manner of scenes and +other motions, by force of water, shown by the light of torches only; +among these, is Orpheus with his music; and the animals, which dance +after his harp; in the second, is the King and Dolphin;[17] in the third, +is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot drawn by sea horses; in the +fourth, the story of Perseus and Andromeda; mills; hermitages; men +fishing; birds chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry grot +to refresh in; all having a fine prospect toward the river, and the +goodly country about it, especially the forest. At the bottom, is a +parterre; the upper terrace nearly half a mile in length, with double +declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost. + + [Footnote 17: Dauphin.] + +In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms, well painted, and +leading into a very noble garden and park, where is a pall-mall, in the +midst of which, on one of the sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, +though small, yet of a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park +you go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with deer, wild +boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court, and Cavallerizzo, +for the menaged horses, are also observable. + +[Sidenote: PARIS] + +We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by +Francis I., and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he +would not go from Madrid (in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from +whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and +walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes, well situated, with a +fair chapel and library. + +1st March, 1644. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue +de Seine, which is well built. Toward his study and bedchamber joins a +little garden, which, though very narrow, by the addition of a +well-painted perspective, is to appearance greatly enlarged; to this +there is another part, supported by arches in which runs a stream of +water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for +some miles, by being artificially continued in the painting, when it +sinks down at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceit. At the end of this +garden is a little theater, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and +the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women painted on light +boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act +as if they were speaking, by guiding them, and reciting words in +different tones, as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, +where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining divers +sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper. + +In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting of Poussin, being +a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of the Virgin, by +Paulo Veronese; another Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by +Cigali; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said to +be of Michael Angelo; the Rape of Proserpine, with a very large landscape +of Correggio. In the next room are some paintings of Primaticcio, +especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well +painted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the Cardinal de +Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely colored. In the cabinet are divers pieces +of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of Paulo Brill, the skies a little too +blue. A Madonna of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of +Mantegna; three women of Jeronimo; one of Stenwick; a Madonna after +Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count esteems it: two +small pieces of Paulo Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and +St. Catherine; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King; six +more of old Bassano; two excellent drawings of Albert; a Magdalen of +Leonardo da Vinci; four of Paulo; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given +him also by our King; the _Ecce Homo_, shut up in a frame of velvet, for +the life and accurate finishing exceeding all description. Some curious +agates, and a chaplet of admirable invention, the intaglios being all on +fruit stones. The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs make +his lady go out of her dressing room, that he might show us the +curiosities and pictures in it. + +We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of the greatest +virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, agates, medals, and +flowers, especially tulips and anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings +was a Sebastian, of Titian. + +From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who showed us many rare drawings, a +Rape of Helen in black chalk; many excellent things of Sneiders, all +naked; some of Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; some +things of Parmensis, and other masters. + +The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur de Hausse, President +of the Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French King, we +were very civilly received, and showed his library. Among his paintings +were a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony, after the first +manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna of Palma. + +Sunday, the 6th of March, I went to Charenton, two leagues from Paris, to +hear and see the manner of the French Protestant Church service. The +place of meeting they call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, +built of freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the Tables of +the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The pulpit stands at the upper end +in the middle, having an inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders +and persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit; the rest of the +congregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as in our +churches, to their great disgrace, as nothing so orderly, as here the +stools and other cumber are removed when the assembly rises. I was +greatly pleased with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all +learn perfectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as their +catechism. + +In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the Marne, where that +renowned echo returns the voice of a good singer nine or ten times. + +7th March, 1644. I set forward with some company toward Fontainebleau, a +sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours at Hampton Court, about +fourteen leagues from the city. By the way, we pass through a forest so +prodigiously encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped +one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is nowhere +to be found more horrid and solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves, +boars, and not long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed among them, which +had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy +precipices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over, +and menacing ruin, is built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues +frequently lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well appointed +with our carabines); but we arrived safe in the evening at the village, +where we lay at the Horne, going early next morning to the Palace. + +This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hampton Court, but +Francis I. began much to beautify it; most of all Henry IV. (and not a +little) the late King. It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and +galleries; in the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are +painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV. That of Francis I., +called the grand Gallery, has all the King's palaces painted in it; above +these, in sixty pieces of excellent work in fresco, is the History of +Ulysses, from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III., esteemed +the most renowned in Europe for the design. The Cabinet is full of +excellent pictures, especially a Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the +Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally, +representing the victories of Charles VII. over our countrymen. In the +Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horseback, of +white marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Clementia and Pax, nobly +done. On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs, and a +half circular court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a chapel +built by Louis XIII., all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble +through the inside. + +Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has a cupola in the +middle of it, great trees and bushes, it being full of birds who drank at +two fountains. There is also a fair tennis court, and noble stables; but +the beauty of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains stand +divers antiquities and statues, especially a Mercury. In the Queen's +Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numerous other brass statues. + +The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the center a +fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brass, with the Wolf over +Romulus and Remus. At each corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the +garden of the piscina, is a Hercules of white marble; next, is that of +the pines, and without that a canal of an English mile in length, at the +end of which rise three jettos in the form of a fleur-de-lis, of a great +height; on the margin are excellent walks planted with trees. The carps +come familiarly to hand (to be fed). Hence they brought us to a spring, +which they say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of +beautifying this place, both with the palace and gardens. The white and +terrific rocks at some distance in the forest, yield one of the most +august and stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this place is +very large, and the town full of noblemen's houses. + +Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was keeper of the +pictures and rarities, to see his own collection. We were led through a +gallery of old Rosso's work, at the end of which, in another cabinet, +were three Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In the +Academy where the painter himself wrought, was a St. Michael of Raphael, +very rare; St. John Baptist of Leonardo, and a Woman's head; a Queen of +Sicily, and St. Margaret of Raphael; two more Madonnas, whereof one very +large, by the same hand; some more of del Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino +del Vaga; the Rape of Proserpine, very good; and a great number of +drawings. + +Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited a house called +_Maison Rouge_, having an excellent prospect, grot, and fountains, one +whereof rises fifty feet, and resembles the noise of a tempest, battle of +guns, etc., at its issue. + +Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a great virtuoso; +there are many good paintings in it; but nothing so observable as his +gardens, fountains, fish-pools, especially that in a triangular form, the +water cast out by a multitude of heads about it; there is a noble +cascade and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a marble table +is a fountain of serpents twisting about a globe. + +We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege by Henry IV. +Here we slept, and returned next morning to Paris. + +18th March, 1644. I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridgeshire Knight, a +journey into Normandy. The first day, we passed by Gaillon, the +Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, but we +did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This town is built +in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oise, and is well +refreshed with fountains. + +This is the first town in Normandy, and the furthest that the vineyards +extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of plains, wood, +and inclosures, with some towns toward the sea, very like England. + +[Sidenote: ROUEN] + +We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next day, descending a +very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after riding five leagues down St. +Catherine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of +that chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with wolves that a +shepherd whom we met, told us one of his companions was strangled by one +of them the day before, and that in the midst of his flock. The fields +are mostly planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It is +plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in +abundance. + +I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very large city, on the +Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, called the Aubette and Robec. +There stand yet the ruins of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied +by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden. +The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the +Reformed a church. + +The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English; +some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to +confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three +steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous bell so much +talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty-two round, the diameter +eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds. + +In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, +with several fair monuments. The choir has behind it a great dragon +painted on the wall, which they say had done much harm to the +inhabitants, till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop; for which +there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, and many images +were exposed with scenes and stories representing the Passion; made up of +little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, with +offerings. Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another goodly +church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when +he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court +of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls +and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well +built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are +of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city. + +21st March, 1644. On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a solitary inn +between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter place we arrived. This town is +situated between two mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the +north by our English seas. + +The port is commodious; but the entrance difficult. It has one very ample +and fair street, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet consists of +a strong earth-work, and commands the haven, as on the other side does +the castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before it; nor +is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with workmen, who make and +sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the +East Indies afford of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities, +are here to be had, with abundant choice. + +23d March, 1644. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and rugged +way, which forced us to alight many times before we came to Havre de +Grace, where we lay that night. + +The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and regular, well stored +with artillery and ammunition of all sorts: the works furnished with fair +brass cannon, having a motto, _Ratio ultima Regum_. The allogements of +the garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, +a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu +being now in the fort, we went to salute him; who received us very +civilly, and commanded that we should be showed whatever we desired to +see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, uncle of +the present Duke, and may be esteemed one of the strongest in France. The +haven is very capacious. + +When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and horses to pass to +Honfleur, about four or five leagues distant, where the Seine falls into +the sea. It is a poor fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the +odd, yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears' and other +skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these maritime coasts. + +[Sidenote: CAEN] + +25th March, 1644. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful town, situate +on the river Orne, which passes quite through it, the two sides of the +town joined only by a bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel, +where we were very well used, the place being abundantly furnished with +provisions, at a cheap rate. The most considerable object is the great +Abbey and Church, large and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having +two spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. The choir +round and large, in the center whereof elevated on a square, handsome, +but plain sepulcher, is this inscription: + + "Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, + Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque + Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno + 1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem + nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam + beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a^o D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne + de Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D." + +On the other side are these monkish rhymes: + + "Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos + Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, + Et Cenomanensis virtute coërcuit ensis, + Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. + Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ, + Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. + Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus + Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hic obiit." + +We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so is the +town-house, built on the bridge which unites the two towns. Here are +schools and an University for the Jurists. + +The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well known +by that name in England. I was led to a pretty garden, planted with +hedges of alaternus, having at the entrance a screen at an exceeding +height, accurately cut in topiary work, with well understood +architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and other +ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the columns curiously wreathed, +others spiral, all according to art. + +[Sidenote: PARIS] + +28th March, 1644. We went toward Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, +a Bishop's seat, an ancient town, with a fair cathedral; so the next day +we arrived at Paris. + +1st April, 1644. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the fine Palace +of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary di Medicis, +and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finished piles that is to +be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The +gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the +Foundress's Life, rarely designed; at the end of it is the Duke of +Orleans' library, well furnished with excellent books, all bound in +maroquin and gilded, the valance of the shelves being of green velvet, +fringed with gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller +volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent collection of +shells and agates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being +very learned in medals and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. +There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, which look +toward the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest. + +The court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over the +chief entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone: the rest is +cloistered and arched on pilasters of rustic work. The terrace ascending +before the front, paved with white and black marble, is balustered with +white marble, exquisitely polished. + +Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat of a heavy design, +but the facia toward the parterre which is also arched and vaulted with +stone, is of admirable beauty and full of sculpture. + +The gardens are near an English mile in compass, inclosed with a stately +wall, and in a good air. The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely +designed and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful +effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into four squares and +as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin of marble near +thirty feet in diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass holds +a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty feet high, playing +perpetually, the water being conveyed from Arceuil by an aqueduct of +stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre, +the spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone, adorned +with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it near the steps of the +terrace, with a rail and baluster of pure white marble. + +The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descending and so justly +planted with limes, elms, and other trees, that nothing can be more +delicious, especially that of the hornbeam hedge, which being high and +stately, buts full on the fountain. + +Toward the further end, is an excavation intended for a vast fish-pool, +but never finished, and near it is an inclosure for a garden of simples, +well kept; and here the Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the +pool of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conservatory for +snow. At the upper part, toward the palace, is a grove of tall elms cut +into a star, every ray being a walk, whose center is a large fountain. + +The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures (all hedge-work or +rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows, bocages, some of them containing +divers acres. + +Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house, are knots in +trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a fountain. Toward the grotto +and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choice flowers, in which the +duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanted to render +this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magnificent; nor is it +one of the least diversions to see the number of persons of quality, +citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom all access is freely +permitted, so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of +gallants and ladies; in others melancholy friars; in others, studious +scholars; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on the grass, +others running and jumping; some playing at bowls and ball, others +dancing and singing; and all this without the least disturbance, by +reason of the largeness of the place. + +What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men at work, and yet all +is kept in such exquisite order, as if they did nothing else but work; it +is so early in the morning, that all is dispatched and done without the +least confusion. + +I have been the larger in the description of this paradise, for the +extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweet retirements. The +Cabinet and Chapel nearer the garden-front have some choice pictures. All +the houses near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite +Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from its breadth, +situation, and buildings. + +I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques' steeple, esteemed +the highest in the town, from whence I had a full view of the whole city +and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as London: though +the dissimilitude of their several forms and situations, this being +round, London long,--renders it difficult to determine; but there is no +comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being +entirely of stone and more sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to +exceed theirs. + +Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard, where the story of the +devouring quality of the ground (consuming bodies in twenty-four hours), +the vast charnels of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchers, took up much +of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas +Flamel's philosophical work, who had founded this church, and divers +other charitable establishments, as he testifies in his book. + +Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters for poor +maids and other ignorant people who come to them for advice, and to write +for them into the country, both to their sweethearts, parents, and +friends; every large gravestone serving for a table. Joining to this +church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it. + +The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious +collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels of all sorts of +precious stones, most of them of great sizes and value; agates and +onyxes, some of them admirably colored and antique; nor inferior were his +landscapes from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copied +in miniature; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken by one of +our company, by the mischance of setting it up: but such was the temper +and civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his free and +noble humor. + +The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden of Monsieur Morine, +who, from being an ordinary gardener, is become one of the most skillful +and curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, +and insects. + +His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypress, cut flat and +set as even as a wall: the tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, +etc., are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that +kind to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage at +one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain and coral, +whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is much esteemed. He has +also books of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, etc. His +collection of all sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most +curious; these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption invading +them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to represent a beautiful +piece of tapestry. + +He showed me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which he +promised to publish. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he had +caused to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil. + +6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,[18] +which she requested of me, and went to see divers of the fairest palaces +of the town, as that of Vendôme, very large and stately; Lougueville; +Guise; Condé; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris +toward the river. + + [Footnote 18: In the first and second editions of the "Diary" many + trifling personal details, such as this mention of the author having + sent his own picture in water colors to his sister, were omitted. It + is not necessary to point them out in detail. They are always of + this personal character; as, among other examples, the mention of + the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, and that + of his coming weary to his lodgings.] + +I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the King, +on condition that it should be called by his name; at this time, the King +resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble +house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of the most +illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's baths, presence-chamber +with its rich carved and gilded roof, theater, and large garden, in which +is an ample fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also +frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great horse, especially +at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, whose schools of that +art are frequented by the nobility; and here also young gentlemen are +taught to fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification and +the mathematics. The design is admirable, some keeping near a hundred +brave horses, all managed to the great saddle. + +12th April, 1644. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the _gens +d'armes_ about the city, in the Bois de Boulogne, before their Majesties +and all the Grandees. They were reputed to be near 20,000, besides the +spectators, who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all +their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, into several figures, +represented a battle. + +[Sidenote: ORLEANS] + +The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend the rest of it in some +more remote town on the river Loire; and, on 19th of April, I took leave +of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to +Orleans. + +The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the roads in France, +is paved with a small square freestone, so that the country does not much +molest the traveler with dirt and ill way, as in England, only 'tis +somewhat hard to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more +temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or _grand pas_, as they call +it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages; among others of note, +Chartres and Etampes, where we lay the first night. This has a fair +church. The next day, we had an excellent road; but had liked to come +short home: for no sooner were we entered two or three leagues into the +Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company +behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and +frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain +of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This +disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt +Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they +had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would +take cognizance of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this +escape; when coming to Orleans and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr. +John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. In the night a cat kittened +on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, two +bodies from the middle downward, and two tails. I found it dead, but +warm, in the morning when I awaked. + +21st April, 1644. I went about to view the city, which is well built of +stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle of the river is an +island, full of walks and fair trees, with some houses. This is +contiguous to the town by a stately stone bridge, reaching to the +opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a +beautiful prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong +towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin +Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At +one side of the cross, kneels Charles VII., armed, and at the other Joan +d'Arc, armed also like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair +disheveled, as the deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they +besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedestal full of +inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned +with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it +were) from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross +are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos á contagione, labis et +æternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes +profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab +impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. +f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ liberavit. A Domino factum +est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc +nostræ fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of +May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and +concourse of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's +cup bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the King any of +it: but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into other +countries. The town is much frequented by strangers, especially Germans, +for the great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers +other privileges, and the University, which causes the English to make no +long sojourn here, except such as can drink and debauch. The city stands +in the county of Bealse (Blaisois); was once styled a Kingdom, afterward +a Duchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. Many +Councils have been held here, and some Kings crowned. The University is +very ancient, divided now by the students into that of four nations, +French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardines, who have each their +respective protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, etc. +There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries, whence one may +borrow a book to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, which is an +extraordinary custom, and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear. +The first church I went to visit was St. Croix; it has been a stately +fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars. They report the tower +of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning of a +fair reparation. About this cathedral there is a very spacious cemetery. +The townhouse is also very nobly built, with a high tower to it. The +market place and streets, some whereof are deliciously planted with +limes, are ample and straight, so well paved with a kind of pebble, that +I have not seen a neater town in France. In fine, this city was by +Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions. + +28th April, 1644. Taking boat on the Loire, I went toward Blois, the +passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at +Baugenci, and slept at a little town called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, +we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house of the +King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a solitary park, full of +deer, inclosed with a wall. I was particularly desirous of seeing this +palace, from the extravagance of the design, especially the staircase, +mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly +employed in this fabric for twelve years: if so, it is wonderful that it +was not finished, it being no greater than divers gentlemen's houses in +England, both for room and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and +full. The staircase is devised with four entries, or assents, which cross +one another, so that though four persons meet, they never come in sight, +but by small loopholes, till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I +remember), and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense than +use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear like so many towers. +About the whole is a large deep moat. The country about is full of corn, +and wine, with many fair noblemen's houses. + +[Sidenote: BLOIS] + +We arrived at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and +rugged, standing on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joined by a +stately stone bridge, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the +entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as +large as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these words: + + "Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, + Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu; + Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis! + Gallica non alio principe digna fuit." + +Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of wolves and +wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gaston had begun a +fair building, through which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for +its furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic +plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand is a +long gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of marble and +brass; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower +ground, having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a hart, +taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-four antlers on its +head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Savior, we saw many sepulchres of +the Earls of Blois. + +On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall Mall, very long, and so +noble shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a great wood), that +unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier. + +From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoining +forest, to see if we could meet any wolves, which are here in such +numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streets; +yet will not the Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be +destroyed. We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; yet a +gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, with his horse grazing +by him, told us that half an hour before, two wolves had set upon his +horse, and had in probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by +him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we ate excellent cream, +and visited a castle builded on a very steep cliff. + +Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken; the inhabitants +very courteous; the air so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of the +King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's work +and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the +river are very rich and pleasant. + +2d May, 1644. We took boat again, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on +the left hand; before it is a sweet island, deliciously shaded with tall +trees. A little distance from hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very +agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue +slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the castle chiefly +invited us, the thickness of whose towers from the river to the top, was +admirable. We entered by the drawbridge, which has an invention to let +one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers, +and one staircase is large enough, and sufficiently commodious, to +receive a coach, and land it on the very tower, as they told us had been +done. There is some artillery in it; but that which is most observable is +in the ancient chapel, viz, a stag's head, or branches, hung up by +chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's +middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I +cannot conceive how it should be artificial they show also the ribs and +vertebræ of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone. + +Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village having no houses +above ground but such only as are hewn out of the main rocks of excellent +freestone. Here and there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface +among the vineyards which are over them, and in this manner they inhabit +the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side of the river for many +miles. + +[Sidenote: TOURS] + +We now came within sight of Tours, where we were designed for the rest of +the time I had resolved to stay in France, the sojournment being so +agreeable. Tours is situate on the east side of a hill on the river +Loire, having a fair bridge of stone called St. Edme; the streets are +very long, straight, spacious, well built, and exceeding clean; the +suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city by another bridge. Both +the church and monastery of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, +having four square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they +show the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. The Mall +without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having +seven rows of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the +innermost of which do so embrace each other, and at such a height, that +nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here we played a party, or +party or two, and then walked about the town walls, built of square +stone, filled with earth, and having a moat. No city in France exceeds it +in beauty, or delight. + +6th May, 1644. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been built by our +countrymen; the dial and clockwork are much esteemed. The church has two +handsome towers and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble +and venerable. To this joins the palace of the Archbishop, consisting +both of old and new building, with many fair rooms, and a fair garden. +Here I grew acquainted with one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The +Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other churches, +chapels, and monasteries for the most part neatly built, and full of +pretty paintings, especially the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a +prospect over the whole city, and many fair walks. + +8th May, 1644. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in this town +they drive a very considerable trade with silk-worms), their pressing and +watering the grograms and camlets, with weights of an extraordinary +poise, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language, +and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at +the Mall, and sometimes about the town. The house opposite my lodging had +been formerly a King's palace; the outside was totally covered with +fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her +Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of +the great Cardinal. + +25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the +religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and +their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and +pictures in abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of +pageantry, banners, and bravery. + +6th June, 1644. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abbey +of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in the kingdom; to it is a very +ample church of stone, with a very high pyramid. Among other relics the +Monks showed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that which sacres +their Kings at Rheims, this being the one that anointed Henry IV. +Ascending many steps, we went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were +showed a vast tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report St. +Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing there. + +7th June, 1644. We walked about two miles from the city to an agreeable +solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to the King. It has many +pretty gardens, full of nightingales; and, in the chapel, lies buried the +famous poet, Ronsard. + +Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, +where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis à +Paula, whose ashes lie in their chapel, with this inscription: "_Corpus +Sancti Fran. à Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno +1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent_." The tomb has four small +pyramids of marble at each corner. + +9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so artificially +planted and supported with arched poles, that stooping down one might see +from end to end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches +hanging down in abundance. + +20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called +Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is a spring within the bowels of +the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with +some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, which hangs +about it like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and +sugar plums, as we call them. + +Near this, we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted with +candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole city, by a +passage cut through the main rock of freestone. + +28th June, 1644. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, a +sweet place. + +30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbé, to +the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by +the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from +whence the country and river yield a most incomparable prospect. + +27th July, 1644. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who have here a +school and convent, but a mean chapel. We have now store of those +admirable melons, so much celebrated in France for the best in the +kingdom. + +1st August, 1644. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in Biscao, having +misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him; he demanded of me (besides his +wages) no less than 100 crowns to carry him to his country; refusing to +pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest me; +the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our avocats pleaded +before the Lieutenant Civil; but it was so unreasonable a pretense, that +the Judge had not patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately +acquitted me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part with my +servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous excuse to me, +that being a stranger I should be so used, he conducted me through the +court to the street-door. This varlet afterward threatened to pistol me. +The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for his great +civility. + +18th August, 1644. The Queen of England came to Tours, having newly +arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly received by +the people and clergy, who went to meet her with the trained bands. +After the harangue, the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I +paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. + +8th September, 1644. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, +where I settled them in their pension and exercises. + +14th September, 1644. We took post for Richelieu, passing by l'Isle +Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we arrived, and went to see +the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The town is built in a low, marshy +ground, having a narrow river cut by hand, very even and straight, +capable of bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one +considerable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the +town) built exactly uniform, after a modern handsome design. It has a +large goodly market house and place, opposite to which is the church +built of freestone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from +the towers. The church is well built, and of a well-ordered architecture, +within handsomely paved and adorned. To this place belongs an Academy, +where, besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, etc., all the +sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors stipendiated by +the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living there, and divers +privileges, not only designed the improvement of the vulgar language, but +to draw people and strangers to the town; but since the Cardinal's death, +it is thinly inhabited; standing so much out of the way, and in a place +not well situated for health, or pleasure. He was allured to build by the +name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors. +This pretty town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind of +slight fortification, two fair gates and drawbridges. Before the gate, +toward the palace, is a spacious circle, where the fair is annually kept. +About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely +pile, though on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and +environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished +with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all +sorts of antiquities, especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The +long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder; the roof +with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing +theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel +anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample. +The gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excellent +embroidery, set with many statues of brass and marble; the groves, +meadows, and walks are a real Paradise. + +16th September, 1644. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen +weeks' sojourn, we traveled toward the more southern part of France, +minding now to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my +friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven +leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and +now belonging to the Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the +gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio +Africanus, of oriental alabaster. + +[Sidenote: BOURGES] + +21st September, 1644. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and so +by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was twenty leagues. The next +day by Murg to Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is the +capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on +the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense; +is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. +In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which +they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which +they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with +great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well +built _à la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the +representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they +show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served +six kings of France in their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that +at Paris, full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a giant +of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John, Duke of Berry, and there +is showed the coronet of the dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for +defense of the town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified +with graffs and works; there is a garrison in it, and a strange engine +for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where Louis, Duke of +Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near the Town-house stands the College +of Jesuits, where was heretofore an Amphitheater. I was courteously +entertained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we fell into +disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. Bourges is an +Archbishopric and Primacy of Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, +and some other English there; and, on the 23d, proceeded on my journey by +Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, thirteen leagues. + +24th September, 1644. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins, where +we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbonnois, on the river Allier, +very navigable. The streets are fair; the castle has a noble prospect, +and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden. +After dinner, came many who offered knives and scissors to sell; it being +a town famous for these trifles. This Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily +assigned for the dowry of the Queens of France. + +Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village, where we lay that +night. The next day, we went somewhat out of the way to see the town of +Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived the +name of the present Royal Family of France. The castle stands on a flinty +rock, overlooking the town. In the midst of the streets are some baths of +medicinal waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly +walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire; and indeed they are chiefly +used to drink of, our Queen being then lodged there for that purpose. +After dinner, I went to see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion, +where is kept one of the thorns of our Savior's crown, and a piece of the +real cross; excellent paintings on glass, and some few statues of stone +and wood, which they show for curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La +Palise, a village that lodged us that night. + +26th September, 1644. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our guide, +and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me one of the pleasantest and +most agreeable places imaginable, for a retired person: for, besides the +situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and +abundant. It being late when we left this town, we rode no further than +Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a +valley near a pleasant stream, encompassed with fresh meadows and +vineyards. The hills which we rode over before we descended, and +afterward, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and mountainous; fir +and pines growing frequently on them. The air methought was much altered +as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after +the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a landscape of this +pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent tempest of thunder and +lightning. + +[Sidenote: LYONS] + +27th September, 1644. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but six +leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five leagues from Tours +in seven days. Here at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of +my acquaintance, who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We lost +no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to accompany these +gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is excellently situated on the +confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhone, which wash the walls of the +city in a very rapid stream; each of these has its bridge; that over the +Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high cliffs, called St. +Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately; on one of them stands a strong +fort, garrisoned. We visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of +the fairest clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The fabric +of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. Etienne and St. +Croix. From the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we +beheld the whole city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps, +many leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church +of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here +are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time +to visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm +people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, +and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing. +The place of the _Belle Cour_ is very spacious, observable for the view +it affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, +gardens, precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advantages +presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is set with fair trees. In +fine, this stately, clean, and noble city, built all of stone, abounds +in persons of quality and rich merchants: those of Florence obtaining +great privileges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two tables +of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech, pronounced to the +Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with the Roman +privileges. There are also other antiquities. + +30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon +on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an +Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of +France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of +truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog trained to it, +and for which those animals are sold at a great price. It is in truth an +incomparable meat. We were shown the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty +entire; and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius Pilate, not +far from the town, at the foot of a solitary mountain, near the river, +having four pinnacles. Here it is reported he passed his exile, and +precipitated himself into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, +and seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very pleasant, +though melancholy place. The cathedral of Vienne is St. Maurice; and +there are many other pretty buildings, but nothing more so, than the +mills where they hammer and polish the sword blades. + +Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that the +boat was only steered) to a small village called Thein, where we dined. +Over against this is another town, named Tournon, where is a very strong +castle under a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College, +who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting, that I could not +forbear designing it with my crayon. + +We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the title of a Duchy; +but the Bishop is now sole Lord temporal of it, and the country about it. +The town having a University famous for the study of the civil law, is +much frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, having been +greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The streets are full of pretty +fountains. The citadel is strong and garrisoned. Here we passed the +night, and the next morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of +twenty-two arches; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were, to +receive the water when it is high and full. Here we went on shore, it +being very dangerous to pass the bridge in a boat. + +[Sidenote: AVIGNON] + +Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a distance the town +and principality of Orange; and, lodging one night on the way, we arrived +at noon at Avignon. This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the +time of Clement V.; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen of Naples +and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at the guard took our +pistols and carbines, and examined us very strictly; after that, having +obtained the Governor's and the Vice-Legate's leave to tarry three days, +we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, and +divided from the newer part, or town, which is on the other side of the +river, by a very fair stone bridge (which has been broken); at one end is +a very high rock, on which is a strong castle well furnished with +artillery. The walls of the city are of large, square freestone, the most +neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-built palaces; +those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop being the most magnificent. There +are many sumptuous churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. +Martial, wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most +observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celestines, the altar +whereof is exceedingly rich: but for nothing I more admired it than the +tomb of Madonna Laura, the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the +Arsenal, the Pope's palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here are +distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the +solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the castle; but could not go to +visit it for want of time, being now taking mules and a guide for +Marseilles. + +We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix, having passed that +extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this tract, all the +heaths, or commons, are covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and +the like sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was very +pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a Parliament and +Presidential town, with other royal Courts and Metropolitan jurisdiction. +It is well built, the houses very high, and the streets ample. The +Cathedral, St. Savior's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable +figures; especially that of St. Michael; the Baptisterie, the Palace, the +Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. The Duke of +Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many antiquities in +and about it. The Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a +University. + +7th October, 1644. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, through +a country sweetly declining to the south and Mediterranean coasts, full +of vineyards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and +the like sweet plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to +the number of above 1,500, built all of freestone, and in prospect +showing as if they were so many heaps of snow dropped out of the clouds +among those perennial greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates +that we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising +ground, well walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys, +secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbor at pleasure; and +there is a well-fortified tower with three other forts, especially that +built on a rock; but the castle commanding the city is that of Notre Dame +de la Garde. In the chapel hung up are divers crocodiles' skins. + +We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-five in number; the +Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us most courteous entertainment in his +cabin, the slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft music very +rarely. Then he showed us how he commanded their motions with a nod, and +his whistle making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and strange, +to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, their heads being +shaven close, and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvas +drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained about their +middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to their seats, and all +commanded in a trice by an imperious and cruel seaman. One Turk among the +rest he much favored, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no other +dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his leg, but not coupled. +This galley was richly carved and gilded, and most of the rest were very +beautiful. After bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a +band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged. I was amazed to +contemplate how these miserable caitiffs lie in their galley crowded +together; yet there was hardly one but had some occupation, by which, as +leisure and calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as some +of them have, after many years of cruel servitude, been able to purchase +their liberty. The rising-forward and falling-back at their oar, is a +miserable spectacle, and the noise of their chains, with the roaring of +the beaten waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one +unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by strokes on their +backs and soles of their feet, on the least disorder, and without the +least humanity, yet are they cheerful and full of knavery. + +After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where is that saint's +head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600 pounds. Thence to Notre +Dame, exceedingly well built, which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke +of Guise's Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi; but +nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves working in the +streets, and carrying burdens, with their confused noises, and jingling +of their huge chains. The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs +out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are brought +hither in great numbers. The town is governed by four captains, has three +consuls, and one assessor, three judges royal; the merchants have a judge +for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and +consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of the Picaroon +Turks, who make prize of any small vessels about these parts; we not +finding a galley bound for Genoa, whither we were designed. + +[Sidenote: PERIGUEUX] + +9th October, 1644. We took mules, passing the first night very late in +sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot where they affirmed Mary +Magdalen did her penance. The next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built +on an old foundation; witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre, +which I went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the town; they +call it now the Rolsies. There is also a strong tower near the town, +called the Visone, but the town and city are at some distance from each +other. It is a bishopric; has a cathedral with divers noblemen's houses +in sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum Julij, well +known by antiquaries. + +10th October, 1644. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct. The +soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. + +11th October, 1644. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the +Mediterranean; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and, +having procured a bill of health (without which there is no admission at +any town in Italy), we embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of +St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spaniards with great +bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having paid some small duty, we bought +some trifles offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore. +Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is the utmost town +in France. Thence by Nice, a city in Savoy, built all of brick, which +gives it a very pleasant appearance toward the sea, having a very high +castle which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called Monaco, having +passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus Herculis, when, arriving after the +gates were shut, we were forced to abide all night in the barge, which +was put into the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning, we were +hastened away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go +up and see this strong and considerable place, which now belongs to a +prince of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and +himself under the protection of the French. The situation is on a +promontory of solid stone and rock. The town walls very fair. We were +told that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnished with the +most rich and princely movables, and a collection of statues, pictures, +and massy plate to an immense amount. + +[Sidenote: SAVONA] + +We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first city of the republic +of Genoa; supped at Oneglia, where we anchored and lay on shore. The next +morning, we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where +the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and date trees; +we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning by Diano, Araisso, famous for +the best coral fishing, growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and +continually covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair and +strong town belonging to the King of Spain, for which reason a monsieur +in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was the patron of our bark, for +they frequently catch French prizes as they creep by these shores to go +into Italy; he therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the +protection of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and in +whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona, a town built at the +rise of the Apennines: for all this coast (except a little of St. Remo) +is a high and steep mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, +without any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange +object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast on the +declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend +to them. The rock consists of all sorts of the most precious marbles. + +Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, we encountered a little foul +weather, which made us creep _terra, terra_, as they call it, and so a +vessel that encountered us advised us to do; but our patron, striving to +double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into great +hazard; for blowing very hard from land between those horrid gaps of the +mountains, it set so violently, as raised on the sudden so great a sea, +that we could not recover the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch +that, what with the water already entered, and the confusion of fearful +passengers (of which one was an Irish bishop, and his brother, a priest, +were confessing some as at the article of death), we were almost +abandoned to despair, our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now, +as we were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking, +it pleased God on the sudden to appease the wind, and with much ado and +great peril we recovered the shore, which we now kept in view within half +a league in sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those +fragrant orchards which are on this coast, full of princely retirements +for the sumptuousness of their buildings, and nobleness of the +plantations, especially those at St. Pietro d'Arena; from whence, the +wind blowing as it did, might perfectly be smelt the peculiar joys of +Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers +leagues seaward.[19] + + [Footnote 19: Evelyn seems to have been much enchanted by the + fragrancy of the air of this coast, for he has noticed it again in + his dedication of the "Fumifugium," to Charles the Second.] + +[Sidenote: GENOA] + +16th October, 1644. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch-tower, +built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being +still so foul that for two hours at least we durst not stand into the +haven. Toward evening we adventured, and came on shore by the +Prattique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we were +had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names being taken, we were +conducted to our inn, kept by one Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never +forget a story of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, +told us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed solemnly, +in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the West Indies, that he swam +no less than twenty-two leagues to another island, with a tinderbox +wrapped up in his hair, which was not so much as wet all the way; that +picking up the carpenter's tools with other provisions in a chest, he and +the carpenter, who accompanied him (good swimmers it seems both), floated +the chest before them; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, +they built another vessel, and so escaped! After this story, we no more +talked of our danger; Zachary put us quite down. + +17th October, 1644. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called +Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The city is built in the hollow or +bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is very steep, high, and rocky, so +that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a +theater; the streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as our +seats are in the playhouses; but, from their materials, beauty, and +structure, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor +is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-designed and stately +palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio +which the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has published, though +it contains [the description of] only one street and two or three +churches. + +The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, to +which we passed by boat across the harbor. Here I could not but observe +the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us was +intercepted by another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and +took us in; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in +his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, showing it to his +antagonist as an assurance to him of some bloody revenge, if ever he came +near that part of the harbor again. Indeed this beautiful city is more +stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders, than any one place +in Europe, or haply in the world, where there is a political government, +which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a +knife whose point is not broken off. + +This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest pictures; on +the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees, among +which are sheep, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a +gray stone; fountains, rocks, and fish ponds; casting your eyes one way, +you would imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country; sideways, +in the heart of a great city; and backward, in the midst of the sea. All +this is within one acre of ground. In the house, I noticed those +red-plaster floors which are made so hard, and kept so polished, that for +some time one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I have +frequently wondered that we never practiced this [art] in England for +cabinets and rooms of state, for it appears to me beyond any invention of +that kind; but by their carefully covering them with canvass and fine +mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they are not lasting +there in glory, and haply they are often repaired. + +There are numerous other palaces of particular curiosities, for the +marchands being very rich, have, like our neighbors, the Hollanders, +little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in; as those in +pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich +furniture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince +Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit of the mountains. The +house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnished +within, having whole tables and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them +set with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, torquoises, and +other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. To this +palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with a +terrace, supported by pillars of marble; there is a fountain of eagles, +and one of Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white marble; +they stand in a most ample basin of the same stone. At the side of this +garden is such an aviary as Sir Francis Bacon describes in his "_Sermones +Fidelium_," or "Essays," wherein grow trees of more than two feet +diameter, besides cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other rare shrubs, +which serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air and +place enough under their airy canopy, supported with huge iron work, +stupendous for its fabric and the charge. The other two gardens are full +of orange trees, citrons, and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and +statues. One of the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the +sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family +received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a year, during the life of that +faithful animal. The reservoir of water here is a most admirable piece of +art; and so is the grotto over against it. + +We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court of +Justice; thence to the Merchant's Walk, rarely covered. Near the Ducal +Palace we saw the public armory, which was almost all new, most neatly +kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were showed many rare +inventions and engines of war peculiar to that armory, as in the state +when guns were first put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly +consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly +of polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and for stateliness of the +buildings, paving, and evenness of the street, is far superior to any in +Europe, for the number of houses; that of Don Carlo Doria is a most +magnificent structure. In the gardens of the old Marquis Spinola, I saw +huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our apricots to the +walls. The churches are no less splendid than the palaces; that of St. +Francis is wholly built of Parian marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of +the city, of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly incrusted +with marble and other precious materials; on the altar of St. John stand +four sumptuous columns of porphyry; and here we were showed an emerald, +supposed to be one of the largest in the world. The church of St. +Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, exceed all the +rest; and that of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family, +in the present and future design can never be outdone for cost and art. +From the churches we walked to the Mole, a work of solid huge stone, +stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea, and secures the +harbor, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art +and nature of the design, nothing parallels this. We passed over to the +Pharos, or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took horses, +and made the circuit of the city as far as the new walls, built of a +prodigious height, and with Herculean industry; witness those vast pieces +of whole mountains which they have hewn away, and blown up with +gunpowder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are not much less +than twenty English miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings +of the city. From one of these promontories we could easily discern the +island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw a vale having a +great torrent running through a most desolate barren country; and then +turning our eyes more northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro +d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retirements of +the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain, we descended toward the +Arsenal, where the galleys lie in excellent order. + +The inhabitants of the city are much affected to the Spanish mode and +stately garb. From the narrowness of the streets, they use sedans and +litters, and not coaches. + +19th October, 1644. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or Leghorn; but +the sea running very high, we put in at Porto Venere, which we made with +peril, between two narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with +great velocity; but we were soon delivered into as great a calm and a +most ample harbor, being in the Golfo di Spetia. From hence, we could see +Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that +famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, being about two +leagues over, more resembling a lake than a haven, but defended by +castles and excessive high mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being +Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streets +in solemn devotion. After dinner we took post-horses, passing through +whole groves of olive trees, the way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, +but afterward pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana and +Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure +inn, at a place called Viregio. The next morning we arrived at Pisa, +where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come +out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till more than a year +after. + +The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy; it has +contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The +palace and church of St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by +that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof +being altogether of polished marble; within, it is full of tables +relating to this Order; over which hang divers banners and pendants, with +other trophies taken by them from the Turks, against whom they are +particularly obliged to fight; though a religious order, they are +permitted to marry. At the front of the palace stands a fountain, and the +statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by +John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in +a row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of +the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would +expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare address +of the architect; and how it is supported from falling I think would +puzzle a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing near it, is +a superb structure, beautified with six columns of great antiquity; the +gates are of brass, of admirable workmanship. The cemetery called Campo +Santo is made of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from +Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in +forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies buried the +learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this +church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore +contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cæsar. It is placed, as +I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns. +Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, +built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a cupola, +that the voice uttered under it seems to break out of a cloud. The font +and pulpit, supported by four lions, is of inestimable value for the +preciousness of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they +call the AREA. Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so +furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dried animals, +skeletons, etc., as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physic +Garden lies, where is a noble palm tree, and very fine waterworks. The +river Arno runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the main +street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that the Duke's galleys, built +in the arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river is an +arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is +nowhere in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is placed +the statue of Ferdinand the Third; over against it is the Exchange, built +of marble. Since this city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has +been much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any which exceeds +it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and flat; but the +inhabitants have spacious gardens, and even fields within the walls. + +[Sidenote: LIVORNO] + +21st October, 1644. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great Duke's +new park full of huge cork trees, the underwood all myrtles, among which +were many buffaloes feeding, a kind of wild ox, short nose with horns +reversed; those who work with them command them, as our bearwards do the +bears, with a ring through the nose, and a cord. Much of this park, as +well as a great part of the country about it, is very fenny, and the air +very bad. + +Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke's territories; +heretofore a very obscure town, but since Duke Ferdinand has strongly +fortified it (after the modern way), drained the marshes by cutting a +channel thence to Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole, +emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place of +great receipt; it has also a place for the galleys, where they lie safe. +Before the sea is an ample piazza for the market, where are the statues +in copper of the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion, +and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern +work. Here, especially in this piazza, is such a concourse of slaves, +Turks, Moors, and other nations, that the number and confusion is +prodigious; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others playing, +some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly +naked, and miserably chained. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow +might stake his liberty against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard; +and, if he lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the galleys, +where he was to serve a term of years, but from whence they seldom +returned; many sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their +fortune in this way. + +The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _á +fresco_ on the outer walls, with representations of many of their +victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the +earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in +Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very fair and commodious, and, +with the church, whose four columns at the portico are of black marble +polished, gave the first hint to the building both of the church and +piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued. + +[Sidenote: FLORENCE] + +22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, +and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of +Signor Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were +exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the +west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with +more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to +gentlemen of the town. The river Arno runs through the city, in a broad, +but very shallow channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and +over it are four most sumptuous bridges of stone. On that nearest to our +quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble; on another are the +goldsmiths' shops; at the head of the former stands a column of ophite, +upon which a statue of Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of +porphyry, and the more remarkable for being the first which had been +carved out of that hard material, and brought to perfection, after the +art had been utterly lost; they say this was done by hardening the tools +in the juice of certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner, +because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of Sienna being +taken. + +Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of +architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that +family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones +of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each +side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a +cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens. +Nothing is more admirable than the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, +urns, pictures, court, grotto, and waterworks. In the quadrangle is a +huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble statues at each +square, especially the Diana of porphyry above the grotto. We were here +shown a prodigious great loadstone. + +The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, +vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos, the middle basin +being one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is everything to make +such a Paradise delightful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an +orange tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns in architecture +about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratory, over against +which stands a fort on a hill, where they told us his treasure is kept. +In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss guards, +after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his +wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker bottles dangling over +even the chief entrance into the palace, serving for a vintner's bush. + +In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, and +full of precious stones; there are four pillars of a kind of serpentine, +and some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called +Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael Angelo, +and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. The +quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall are +many rare marbles, as those of Leo X. and Clement VII., both Popes of the +Medicean family; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare painting. In the chapel +is kept (as they would make one believe) the original Gospel of St. John, +written with his own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and +divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower like that of +Pisa, always threatening ruin. + +Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men to walk in, and +over that, the shops of divers rare artists who continually work for the +great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or repository, +wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and +metal, vases of porphyry, etc.; but among the statues none so famous as +the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of Apollo, brought from the Delphic +Temple, and two triumphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the +most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, to the number of +300, taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. They then led us into a +large square room, in the middle of which stood a cabinet of an +octangular form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and +sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is called the +_Tribuna_ and in it is a pearl as big as an hazelnut. The cabinet is of +ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over the door is a round of M. Angelo; on the +cabinet, Leo X. with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and +Correggio, viz, a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads of +Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently +carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable +pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental +columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cæsar, +covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they +resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and +the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred +thousand crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars, was a series of +golden medals. Here is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a +tortoise shell, and containing a collection of gold medals esteemed worth +50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of Oriental alabaster, divers paintings +of Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an _Ecce Homo_ of Titian, a Boy of +Bronzini, etc. They showed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which +they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept the Tabernacle +appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, about which are placed small +statues of Saints, of precious material; a piece of such art and cost, +that having been these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most +curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Commesso, +which is a marble ground inlaid with several sorts of marbles and stones +of various colors representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and +landscapes. In one is represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand +who inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I +purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a cabinet. In a press near +this they showed an iron nail, one half whereof being converted into gold +by one Thurnheuser, a German chemist, is looked on as a great rarity; but +it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. There is a curious +watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an +emperor's head. + +In the armory are kept many antique habits, as those of Chinese kings; +the sword of Charlemagne; Hannibal's headpiece; a loadstone of a yard +long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such +as the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare turneries in +ivory, as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a fair +pillar of oriental alabaster; twelve vast and complete services of silver +plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered +saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and here is that +embroidered chair set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on St. +John's day, he receives the tribute of the cities. + +25th October, 1644. We went to the Portico where the famous statue of +Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, all of copper; but what is +most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine, with another man under foot, the +confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one +entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most stupendous; this +stands directly against the great piazza, where, to adorn one fountain, +are erected four marble statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune +and his family of sea gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four sea +horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst of a very great +basin: a work, I think, hardly to be paralleled. Here is also the famous +statue of David, by M. Angelo; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli; +the Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Donatelli, which +stand publicly before the old Palace with the Centaur of Bologna, huge +Colossean figures. Near this stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in +brass on a pedestal of marble, and four copper bassorelievos by John di +Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the First, on horseback, +is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen boar, which serves for another public +fountain, is admirable. + +After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annunciata, where the Duke and +his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute +for sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles, [proved] by +innumerable votive tablets, etc., covering almost the walls of the whole +church. This is the image of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and +which the artist finished so well, that he was in despair of performing +the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was miraculously done for him +while he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke himself. +Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar +is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by thirty +great silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters. +Our Savior's Passion in brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of +John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. + +To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted in _fresco_ +very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for 1,000 persons, with +nurse-children, and several other charitable accommodations. + +At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses +of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are +continually exercised in the _manège_. + +Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, +bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in a deep walled court, and +therefore to be seen with more pleasure than those at the Tower of +London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, +to catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down. + +[Sidenote: SIENNA] + +[20]There are many plain brick towers erected for defense, when this was +a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing at the foot of +the piazza which we went first to see after our arrival. At the entrance +of this tower is a chapel open toward the piazza, of marble well adorned +with sculpture. + + [Footnote 20: There seems to be here an omission in the MS. between + their leaving Florence and going to Sienna.] + +On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built _a la +moderna_, of brick; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made, that +they look almost as well as porphyry itself, having a kind of natural +polish. + +In the Senate-house is a very fair Hall where they sometimes entertain +the people with public shows and operas, as they call them. Toward the +left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of brass, +placed on a column of ophite stone, which they report was brought from +the renowned Ephesian Temple. These ensigns being the arms of the town, +are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far +without the city. + +The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and chapel, and, being +made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop +shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks +above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved, render it +very clean. About this market place (for so it is) are many fair palaces, +though not built with excess of elegance. There stands an arch, the work +of Baltazzar di Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not +easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some imperceptible +contiguations, which do not betray themselves easily to the eye. On the +edge of the piazza is a goodly fountain beautified with statues, the +water issuing out of the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo +Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in the +city, of good design. + +After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the University, or rather +College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when +they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has +produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, +Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas Sylvius; and both +were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini. + +The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius II. has built a +most stately palace of square stone, with an incomparable portico +joining near to it. The town is commanded by a castle which hath four +bastions and a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in, +much frequented by the gallants in summer. + +Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, where in +the chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they show her head, the rest of her +body being translated to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both without and +within, is of large square stones of black and white marble polished, of +inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorned with sculpture and rare +statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry +streaked colored marble. About the body of the church, on a cornice +within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is beautified +with marble figures, a piece of exquisite work; but what exceeds all +description is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and other +figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the history of the Bible, +so artificially expressed in the natural colors of the marbles, that few +pictures exceed it. Here stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on +the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. +The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the +altar is the library, where are painted the acts of Æneas Sylvius, and +others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist, +wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by +the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription +testifies. They have also St. Peter's sword, with which he smote off the +ear of Malchus. + +Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital, where they +entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrims as go +to Rome. In the chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius, +their founder, as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years. +They show one of the nails which pierced our Savior, and Saint +Chrysostom's "Comment on the Gospel," written by his own hand. Below the +hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure +more than food. + +St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near which, yet a little without +the city, grows a tree which they report in their legend grew from the +Saint's staff, which, on going to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at +his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of +it in decoction cures sundry diseases. + +[Sidenote: TORRINIERI] + +2d November, 1644. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the +cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.,[21] who had not yet made the +grand procession to St. John di Laterano. We set out by Porto Romano, the +country all about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild boar and +venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the towns about it. +We passed near Monte Oliveto, where the monastery of that Order is +pleasantly situated, and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which, by +the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, we went +through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of the Emperor, Henry VII., +who was here poisoned with the Holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to +Torrinieri, where we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of +Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello.[22] After three miles more, +we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private osteria near it, where, after +we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, +now come from Rome; he was so civil as to entertain us with great +respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he had been once +in our country. Among other discourse, he related how a dove had been +seen to sit on the chair in the Conclave at the election of Pope +Innocent, which he magnified as a great good omen, with other particulars +which we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came in great +state with his own bedstead and all the furniture, yet would by no means +suffer us to resign the room we had taken up in the lodging before his +arrival. Next morning, we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, +Monte Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping +above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at +Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for the necessary +refreshment of travelers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we +entered a very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like rocks +at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going up; they were dry +misty vapors, hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, and obscuring +both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in +the clouds, till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene +heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the mountain +appearing more like a great island than joined to any other hills; for we +could perceive nothing but a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet +like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top of some other +mountain to peep through, which we could discover many miles off: and +between some breaches of the clouds we could see landscapes and villages +of the subjacent country. This was one of the most pleasant, new, and +altogether surprising objects that I had ever beheld. + + [Footnote 21: John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, + died in 1655.] + + [Footnote 22: The wine so called.] + +On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong +fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a small town; the provisions +are drawn up with ropes and engines, the precipice being otherwise +inaccessible. At one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely +broken off from the ragged mountain, as would affright one with their +horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the inn gushed out a +plentiful and most useful fountain which falls into a great trough of +stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my +black lead pen took the prospect. It is one of the utmost confines of the +Etrurian State toward St. Peter's Patrimony, since the gift of Matilda to +Gregory VII., as is pretended. + +Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory XIV., and thence +immediately to Acquapendente, a town situated on a very ragged rock, down +which precipitates an entire river (which gives it the denomination), +with a most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is +this inscription: + + "_L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta, + In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta + Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta._" + +Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans, +famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other great scholars, especially +the renowned physician and anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was +bred and born there. + +4th November, 1644. After a little riding, we descended toward the Lake +of Bolsena, which being above twenty miles in circuit, yields from hence +a most incomparable prospect. Near the middle of it are two small +islands, in one of which is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where +those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it _Tarquiniensis +Lacus_, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they did not +appear to us. The lake is environed with mountains, at one of whose sides +we passed toward the town Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those +times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. +Christiana's church, the urn, altar, and jasper columns. + +After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood heretofore sacred to +Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head of the Falisci, a famous people +in old time, and heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, +as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St. +Flavian's church with this epitaph: + + "_Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est._" + +Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and inquire where the +best wine was, and there write _Est_, the man found some so good that he +wrote _Est, Est_, upon the vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of +it, died. + +[Sidenote: VITERBO] + +From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant champaign to Viterbo, +which presents itself with much state afar off, in regard of her many +lofty pinnacles and towers; neither does it deceive our expectation; for +it is exceedingly beautified with public fountains, especially that at +the entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare figures, +and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing +waters. There are many Popes buried in this city, and in the palace is +this odd inscription: + + "_Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc + antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi + Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriæ + monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V._" + +Under it: + + "_Sum Osiris Rex Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe._" + + "_Sum Osiris Rex qui ab Itala in Gigantes exercitus veni, vidi, et + vici._" + + "_Sum Osiris Rex qui terrarum pacata Italiam decem a'nos quorum + inventor fui._" + +Near the town is a sulphurous fountain, which continually boils. After +dinner we took horse by the new way of Capranica, and so passing near +Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at +which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon allayed by so +violent a shower, which fell just as we were contemplating that proud +Mistress of the world, and descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we +entered), that before we got into the city I was wet to the skin. + +[Sidenote: ROME] + +I came to Rome on the 4th of November, 1644, about five at night; and +being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on +horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a +Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having +bargained with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good fire to +be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet. The next +morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted +with several persons who had long lived at Rome. I was especially +recommended to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his Order +for the English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, +religion, and humanity; also to Mr. Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to +our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young priest, who afterward came over +to our church; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs, physicians who had dependence on +Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet; Father Courtney, the +chief of the Jesuits in the English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother +to the Marquis of Worcester; and some others, from whom I received +instructions how to behave in town, with directions to masters and books +to take in search of the antiquities, churches, collections, etc. +Accordingly, the next day, November 6th, I began to be very +pragmatical.[23] + + [Footnote 23: The sense in which Evelyn uses this word is that of + its old signification, as being very active and full of business, + setting to work systematically with what he came upon, namely, to + view the antiquities and beauties of Rome.] + +In the first place, our sights-man (for so they name certain persons here +who get their living by leading strangers about to see the city) went to +the Palace Farnese, a magnificent square structure, built by Michael +Angelo, of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner, and when +architecture was but newly recovered from the Gothic barbarity. The court +is square and terraced, having two pairs of stairs which lead to the +upper rooms, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine +Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and +well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment +than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed. +Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing the +fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a +pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent +of ground backward. The great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, +furnished with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a +Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration. +Here we were shown the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos, replete with +innumerable collections; but the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at +this time see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with +astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues of Hercules and +Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and indeed by all antiquity, as two +of the most rare pieces in the world; there likewise stands a modern +statue of Hercules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second +court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and +never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of Amphion and Dirce, represented +in five figures, exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white +marble, the contending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and +Taurisco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and +remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world +for its antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and +busts. At the entrance of this stately palace stand two rare and vast +fountains of garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus's +Baths. Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the FRESCO in their +coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we visited the palace +of Signor Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especially +the Adonis of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have +purchased, if a great price would have been taken for it. + +We went into the CAMPO VACCINO, by the ruins of the Temple of Peace, +built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought to be the largest as well as the +most richly furnished of all the Roman dedicated places: it is now a heap +rather than a temple, yet the roof and _volto_ continue firm, showing it +to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. This goodly structure +was, none knows how, consumed by fire the very night, by all computation, +that our blessed Savior was born. + +From hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated himself +for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake, or vorago. +Near this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed +to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus; the work +of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave is excellent, full of +sacrificing utensils. There are three other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite +to these are the oratories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, +heretofore the Temples of Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a tribunal, +or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before it are brass, +and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie +the bodies of those two martyrs; and in a chapel on the right hand is a +rare painting of Cavaliere Baglioni. + +We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a +range of most stately columns; the inscription cut in the architrave +shows it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair +church, and has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St. +Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was once placed a +military column, supposed to be set in the center of the city, from +whence they used to compute the distance of all the cities and places of +note under the dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are +likewise brazen gates and a noble front; just opposite we saw the heaps +and ruins of Cicero's palace. Hence we went toward Mons Capitolinus, at +the foot of which stands the arch of Septimus Severus, full and entire, +save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up with +ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched with sculpture and +trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial and naval battles +here graven, is seen the Roman Aries (the battering-ram); and this was +the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we climbed +by very broad steps, is built about a square court, at the right hand of +which, going up from Campo Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the +statue of Tiber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing +Rome; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius, casting water +into a most ample concha. The front of this court is crowned with an +excellent fabric containing the Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal +Notary sits, and others. In one of the halls they show the statues of +Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To this joins a +handsome tower, the whole faciata adorned with noble statues, both on the +outside and on the battlements, ascended by a double pair of stairs, and +a stately Posario. + +In the center of the court stands that incomparable horse bearing the +Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian metal, placed +on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now +extant, antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a colossean +magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending stairs +are set two horses of white marble governed by two naked slaves, taken to +be Castor and Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade, +the trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and +instructive. At the foot of the steps toward the left hand is that +Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, mentioned to have been +formerly set in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand, is the palace of the +Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the +city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them), +of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico +within, are the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned +Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a +smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head +of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand, the thumb +whereof is at least an ell long, and yet proportionable; but the rest of +the _colosse_ is lost. In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion +fighting, as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued; likewise +the Rape of the Sabines; two cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea; two +monstrous feet of a _colosse_ of Apollo; the Sepulchre of Agrippina; and +the standard, or antique measure of the Roman foot. Ascending by the +steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz, the +triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity +and rareness of the work, I caused my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, to +copy. There are also two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the +Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas bound +to a tree; all of them excellent and antique. Above in the lobby are +inserted into the walls those ancient laws, on brass, called the Twelve +Tables; a fair Madonna of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall; near +which are the archives, full of ancient records. + +In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe +d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In +another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, +set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent +masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, Horatius Cocles, etc. +The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried +with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or +_balduquino_ of crimson velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely +painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of brass, +with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn +out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also +holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the +names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by +the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing +Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished with +velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In +the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, a +Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incomparable work, six other +statues; and, over the chimney, a very rare basso-relievo, and other +figures. In a little lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, +a Bacchus very antique, _bustoes_ of Pan and Mercury, with other old +heads. All these noble statues, etc., belong to the city, and cannot be +disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but are preserved +for the honor of the place, though great sums have been offered for them +by divers Princes, lovers of art, and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, +certainly one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now built +by the design of the famous M. Angelo. + +Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than 100 marble +steps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare knees, but +to see those two famous statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed +there out of his baths. In this church is a Madonna, reported to be +painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the print of a foot, +which they affirm to have been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of +St. Angelo. Here the feast of our Blessed Savior's nativity being yearly +celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation. +Having viewed the Palace and fountain, at the other side of the stairs, +we returned weary to our lodgings. + +On the 7th of November, we went again near the Capitol, toward the +Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the Tiber. Thence, +descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, +they showed us a chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of +it bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the church gushes a +fountain, which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having +converted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to make them +Christians. The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We then walked +about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the Circus Maximus, +capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into +gardens. Then by the _Forum Boarium_, where they have a tradition that +Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his temple remaining. The Temple of +Janus Quadrifrons, having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on +each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and pretty entire +antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now toward +the Tiber, we went into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 +persons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew; the +architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to none. It is +now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman +families. The people were now generally busy in erecting temporary +triumphs and arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his +Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani, among which the Jews +also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the +Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's +architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an +object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the +end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and +void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the _volto_ +whereof was newly painted _á fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro +Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished +with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of +worthy collections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts; but, above all, an +Egyptian Osiris, remarkable for its unknown material and antiquity. In +one of the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the +original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy, little inferior +to the prototype; a table, in my judgment, superior to anything I had +seen in Rome. In the court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having +divers hieroglyphics cut on it. + +8th November, 1644. We visited the Jesuits' Church, the front whereof is +esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design of Jacomo della Porta +and the famous Vignola. In this church lies the body of their renowned +Ignatius Loyola, an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the +right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal Bellarmine. Here +Father Kircher (professor of Mathematics and the oriental tongues) showed +us many singular courtesies, leading us into their refectory, +dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round +with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their +pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch +patience, he showed us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical +experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of +them since published by himself, or his industrious scholar, Schotti. + +Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de Medicis, which was an +house of the Duke of Florence near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons +Pincius, having a fine prospect toward the Campo Marzo. It is a +magnificent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and a +portico supported with columns toward the gardens, with two huge lions, +of marble, at the end of the balustrade. The whole outside of the +_facciata_ is incrusted with antique and rare basso-relievos and statues. +Descending into the garden is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of +brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of fine +statues, among which the Sabines, antique and singularly rare. In the +arcade near this stand twenty-four statues of great price, and hard by is +a mount planted with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly +fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white marble, +covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, and other perennial greens, +divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. At a little distance +are those famed statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large +as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed among the +best pieces of work in the world for the passions they express, and all +other perfections of that stupendous art. There is likewise in this +garden a fair obelisk, full of hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain +before the front casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is +received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the great +horse every morning; which gave me much diversion from the terrace of my +own chamber, where I could see all their motions. This evening, I was +invited to hear rare music at the Chiesa Nova; the black marble pillars +within led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, their +founder; they being of the oratory of secular priests, under no vow. +There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo +Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of +the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, +and others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many +chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cæsar Baronius, the great +annalist. Through this, we went into the _sacristia_, where, the tapers +being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of +eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace, +that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian so well and so +intelligently spoken. This course it seems they frequently use, to bring +their scholars to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their +action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England. This +being finished, began their _motettos_, which in a lofty cupola richly +painted, were sung by eunuchs, and other rare voices, accompanied by +theorbos, harpsichords, and viols, so that we were even ravished with the +entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by Cortona, and has in +it two figures in the niches, and the church stands in one of the most +stately streets of Rome. + +10th November, 1644. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where was +formerly the _Viridarium_ of the poet, Sallust. The house is very +magnificent, and the extent of the ground exceedingly large, considering +that it is in a city; in every quarter of the garden are antique statues, +and walks planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house of +retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a particular +ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness and smoothness of the +excellent pargeting was a thing I much observed, being almost as even and +polished, as if it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the +city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a +Vulcan, the other a Nativity; there is a German clock full of rare and +extraordinary motions; and, in a little room below are many precious +marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental +alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area, +environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to +preserve their oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are +properly called _testæ_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous +statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the +rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed through almost all +Europe, both in stone and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of +porphyry, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's body +flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble, as it was found +in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes; it lay in a +chest, or coffin, lined with black velvet, and one of the arms being +broken, you may see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire. +The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white, the work of +Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innumerable small brass figures, and +other curiosities. But what some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is +a very rich bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much +glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid +wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and antique heads, +onyxes, agates, and cornelians, esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. +Here are also divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides +pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo--a conceited chair to +sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, and pieces of wood to +draw out longer or shorter. + +From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study, who very +courteously showed us such a collection of rare medals as is hardly to be +paralleled; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian +curiosities, and things of nature. + +From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore called Mons Quirinalis, +where we saw those two rare horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and +Praxiteles, as they were sent to Nero (by Tiridates King) out of Armenia. +They were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sextus V., by whom I +suppose their injuries were repaired, and are governed by four naked +slaves, like those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble +fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for building and +beauty to be seen in any city of Europe. Opposite to these statues is the +Pope's summer palace, built by Gregory XIII.; and, in my opinion, it is, +for largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous in Rome, +having a stately portico which leads round the court under columns, in +the centre of which there runs a beautiful fountain. The chapel is +incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can be more rich, +or glorious, nor are the other ornaments and movables about it at all +inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and others. The garden, which +is called the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation of that of the +Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its exquisite fountains, +close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted about with +venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water-music, aviaries, and other +rarities. + +12th November, 1644. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whose ruins testify the +vastness of the original foundation and magnificence; by what M. Angelo +took from the ornaments about it, 'tis said he restored the then almost +lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labor of +the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great persecutions. +The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of these ruinous +cupolas, and is in the form of an urn with a cover. + +Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise called _Fons +Felix_; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses +striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children +drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly +magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an +aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Præneste, as the +inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about +with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, +very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's +corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were the +gardens of Sallust. The faciàta of this church is noble, the _soffito_ +within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, +by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite +work, from whose marble steps you descend under ground to the repository +of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is the work of Jacomo +Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine Nuns. + +Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. In +this church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory XV., after the signal victory +of the Emperor at Prague; the standards then taken still hang up, and the +impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms, _Extirpentur_. I +observed that the high altar was much frequented for an image of the +Virgin. It has some rare statues, as Paul ravished into the third heaven, +by Fiamingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent toward +Dioclesian's Baths, never satisfied with contemplating that immense pile, +in building which 150,000 Christians were destined to labor fourteen +years, and were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthusians, +called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of M. Angelo, and the +cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. + +Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone built on the +Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park full of fountains, +especially that which salutes us at the front; stews for fish; the +cypress walks are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and +other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The +citron trees are uncommonly large. In the palace joining to it are +innumerable collections of value. Returning, we stepped into St. Agnes +church, where there is a tribunal of antique mosaic, and on the altar a +most rich ciborio of brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental +alabaster. The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they +showed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as +the relievo intimates by the drunken emblems and instruments wrought upon +it. The altar is of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had +the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses before the Monte +Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the most glorious sights for state and +magnificence that any city can show a traveler. We returned by Porta Pia, +and the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the +wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive. + +Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street but very precipitous, +till we came to the four fountains of Lepidus, built at the abutments of +four stately ways, making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the +fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under very large niches +of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The church of St. Carlo is +a singular fabric for neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white +stone; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church of a +structure nothing less admirable. + +Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the Esqueline Mountain, +which gives it a most conspicuous face to the street at a great distance. +The design is mixed partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that +the Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built 300 years +since. The first pavement is rare and antique; so is the portico built by +P. P. Eugenius II. The _ciborio_ is the work of Paris Romano, and the +tribunal of Mosaic. + +We were showed in the church a _concha_ of porphyry, wherein they say +Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one of the most famous of the seven +Roman Churches, and is, in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the +most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, are +the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of Sextus was designed by +Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare great statues, and some good pieces +of painting; and here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents' +bodies slain by Herod: as also that renowned tabernacle of metal, gilt, +sustained by four angels, holding as many tapers, placed on the altar. In +this chapel is the statue of Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of +most of his famous acts, in Parian marble; but that of P. Paulus, which +we next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination glorious, +and above description. It is so encircled with agates, and other most +precious materials, as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The +basso-relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed +with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on _lapis lazuli_. The altar +is a most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the cupola painted +by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite +sculptures. There is a most sumptuous _sacristia_; and the piece over the +altar was by the hand of St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath +here likewise built two other altars; under the one lie the bones of the +Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the statue of this Pope, +and the head of the Congo Ambassador, who was converted at Rome, and died +here. In a third chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of +Platina, and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., the +ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V., before +mentioned, was showed us part of the crib in which Christ was swaddled +at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of Pius V.; and going out at the +further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the +portico, is this late inscription: "_Cardinal Antonio Barberino +Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, +laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, +Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis ædibus huc transtulit et +ornavit, 1632_." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and +stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an +ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the +plinth of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal; at the +pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the obelisk taken +from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico +Fontana, with this epigraph: "_Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto +advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures +confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem +restitutum Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII, +Pont. III_"; and so we came weary to our lodgings. + +At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, in which is a +well, filled with the blood and bones of several martyrs, but grated over +with iron, and visited by many devotees. Near this stands the church of +her sister, S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a +little obscure place, canceled in with iron work, is the pillar, or +stump, at which they relate our Blessed Savior was scourged, being full +of bloody spots, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their +chaplets, and convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, +besides a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous Cardinal +Cajetan, an excellent piece; and here they hold that St. Peter said his +first mass at Rome, with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he +having been first lodged in this house, as they compute about the +forty-fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many relics, or +rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna did next invite +us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet +remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. +In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _á +fresco_ on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the +Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. + +14th November, 1644. We passed again through the stately Capitol and +Campo Vaccino toward the Amphitheater of Vespasian, but first stayed to +look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in honor +of his victory at Jerusalem; on the left hand whereof he is represented +drawn in a chariot with four horses abreast; on the right hand, or side +of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso-relievo as big as +the life (and in one entire marble) the Ark of the Covenant, on which +stands the seven-branched candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the +two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as they +are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles; before this, go many +crowned and laureated figures, and twelve Roman _fasces_ with other +sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before had; and therefore, +for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter, Carlo, to +copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the noblest, best +understood _composita_; and the inscription is this, in capital letters: + + S. P. Q. R. + D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO. + +Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus fell out +of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himself to pieces on a flint. +Near this is a marble monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory +of the Pope's return from Avignon. Being now passed the ruins of +Meta-Sudante (which stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there +once stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh the +gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, +begun by Vespasian, and finished by that excellent prince, Titus. It is +830 Roman palms in length (_i.e._ 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, +with caves for the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of +dogs; the whole oval periphery 2888-4/7 palms, and capable of containing +87,000 spectators with ease and all accommodation: the three rows of +circles are yet entire; the first was for the senators, the middle for +the nobility, the third for the people. At the dedication of this place +were 5,000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the feast +lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It was built of Tiburtine +stone, a vast height, with the five orders of architecture, by 30,000 +captive Jews. It is without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned +thick with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of the +stones were carried away to repair the city walls and build the Farnesian +palace. That which still appears most admirable is, the contrivance of +the porticos, vaults, and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well +deserves this distich of the poet: + + "_Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro; + Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus._" + +Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, +which is erected on the steps, or stages, very lofty at one of its sides, +or ranges, within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermit. I +ascended to the very top of it with wonderful admiration. + +The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-Sudante, before +mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia, on one side Monte Celio, +and is perfectly entire, erected by the people in memory of his victory +over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front is this +inscription: + + IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO + P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. + QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS + MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO + TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS + FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS + REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS + ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. + +Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where are many privileged +altars, and there they showed us an arm of that saint, and other relics. +Before this church stands a very noble portico. + +15th November, 1644. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th I +went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines. + +17th November, 1644. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample garden +on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city walls, circumscribed by +another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses; which makes it +appear at a distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of +delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace; but the entrance of +the garden presents us with a very glorious fabric, or rather door-case, +adorned with divers excellent marble statues. This garden abounded with +all sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry +inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it a +vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, etc., and divers strange +beasts, deer, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and represents, among +other devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers, +etc.; which is effected by changing the heads of the fountains. The +groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. The four sphinxes +are very antique, and worthy observation. To this is a volary, full of +curious birds. The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect +is excellent toward Rome, and the environing hills, covered as they now +are with snow, which indeed commonly continues even a great part of the +summer, affording sweet refreshment. Round the house is a baluster of +white marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with a multitude +of statues. The walls of the house are covered with antique incrustations +of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, etc. The +cornices above consist of fruitages and festoons, between which are +niches furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very roof. +In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues of Consuls, etc., +with two pieces of field artillery upon carriages, (a mode much practiced +in Italy before the great men's houses) which they look on as a piece of +state more than defense. In the first hall within, are the twelve Roman +Emperors, of excellent marble; between them stand porphyry columns, and +other precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urns of oriental +alabaster. Tables of pietra-commessa: and here is that renowned Diana +which Pompey worshiped, of eastern marble: the most incomparable Seneca +of touch, bleeding in an huge vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of +his blood; the so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of +stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is +observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the +statuary plainly stupendous. There is a multitude of rare pictures of +infinite value, by the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two +exquisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber, are divers +sorts of instruments of music: among other toys that of a satyr, which so +artificially expressed a human voice, with the motion of eyes and head, +that it might easily afright one who was not prepared for that most +extravagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches fast any one +who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir out, by certain springs +concealed in the arms and back thereof, which at sitting down surprises a +man on the sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a true +treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also considerable, composed +by the position of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication +of things resembling divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a +rare clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is +to be seen in this Paradise. + +The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the morning, I saw the +ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat; this +was the first time I had seen his Holiness _in pontificalibus_. After the +Cardinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony was in the +Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested with most pompous +rites. + +19th November, 1644. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and +incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and +perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The +largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it +affords a noble prospect of the church, not crowded up, as for the most +part is the case in other places where great churches are erected. In +this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river rather than a stream +which, ascending a good height, breaks upon a round emboss of marble into +millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise; +I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw. + +Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius +Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit; +but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast +cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, architect to +Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire square stone without +hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two feet, but comprehending the base and +all it is 108 feet high, and rests on four lions of gilded copper, so as +you may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the pedestal. + +Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven + + DIVO CAES. DIVI + IVLII F. AVGVSTO + TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. + F. AVGVS. SACRVM. + +It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that Sextus V. +inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is to be read by good eyes: + + SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI + SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. + CONSECRAVIT. + E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM + ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. + I. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI. + +On the four faces of the base below: + + 1. CHRISTVS VINCIT. + CHRISTVS REGNAT. + CHRISTVS IMPERAT. + CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO + PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. + + 2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. + OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM + IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM + AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA + OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT + AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II. + + 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI + FVGITE PARTES + ADVERSAE + VINCIT LEO + DE TRIBV IVDA. + + 4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. + CRVCI INVICTAE + OBELISCVM VATICANVM + AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE + EXPIATVM IVSTIVS + ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT + AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. + +A little lower: + + DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS + TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. + +It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975 +crowns, the labor of 907 men, and 75 horses: this being the first of the +four Egyptian obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the forty-two brought +to the city out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by +the Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes. Some coaches stood before the +steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to Cardinal Medici, had all +the metal work of massy silver, viz, the bow behind and other places. The +coaches at Rome, as well as covered wagons also much in use, are +generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the _facciata_ of +the church is an ample pavement. The church was first begun by St. +Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on a foundation, as they give out, of +Constantine the Great, who, in honor of the Apostles, carried twelve +baskets full of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in hand, +to which all his successors have contributed more or less. + +The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied piece of +architecture in the world; to this we went up by four steps of marble. +The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters; the _volto_ within is +the richest possible, and overlaid with gold. Between the five large +anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many gates +of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the Florentine, full of +cast figures and histories in a deep relievo. Over this runs a terrace of +like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his +Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico are two +_campaniles_, or towers, whereof there was but one perfected, of +admirable art. On the top of all, runs a balustrade which edges it quite +round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the twelve +Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than +the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the _volto_, +or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses overlaid with gold in +nature of a deep basso-relievo, _à l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in +form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the +_internodium_ of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone +and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of the Pantheon +(which was the largest among the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any +other known. The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite +Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full +of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, exposed to the air, is covered +with lead, with great ribs of metal double gilt (as are also the ten +other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which +gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of the city. On the +summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving +thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name among other +travelers. Lastly, is the Cross, the access to which is between the +leaden covering and the stone convex, or arch-work; a most truly +astonishing piece of art! On the battlements of the church, also all +overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so +many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses +inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the +vast reparations which continually employ them. + +Having seen this, we descended into the body of the church, full of +collateral chapels and large oratories, most of them exceeding the size +of ordinary churches; but the principal are four incrusted with most +precious marbles and stones of various colors, adorned with an infinity +of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics. The +altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could not pass without +particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The chapel of Gregory +XIII., where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the +center of the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement +VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered by Pope Urban VIII.; with +that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought +from the Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly +channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little _puti_ birds +and bees (the arms of the _Barberini_), sustaining a _baldacchino_ of the +same metal. The four columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, +all over richly gilt; this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about +it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond +all that man's industry has produced of the kind; it is the work of +Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a +little before my coming to the city, gave a public opera (for so they +call shows of that kind), wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, +invented the engines, composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the +theater. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which, +with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed four exquisite +statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica, +made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the +miraculous _Sudarium_ indued with the picture of our Savior's face, with +this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ Sudario exceptam ut loci +majestas decentèr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum +et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit_." + +Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by +Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a +most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "_Longini Lanceam quam +Innocentius VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. +statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium +transtulit_." + +The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman, St. +Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great; the work of Boggi, an +excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a great piece of the pretended +wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected +miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with +this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix è Calvario in +Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam, +additis arâ et statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit_." + +The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the +statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the +other; above is preserved the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It +is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in +a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found +himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this: + + "_St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum + curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisque + statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._" + +The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also +the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and +services to be seen in the Sacristy, which they showed us. Under the high +altar is an ample grot inlaid with _pietra-commessa_, wherein half of the +bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang divers great +lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. About this and +contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, in form of a theater, of +black marble. Toward the left, as you go out of the church by the +portico, a little beneath the high altar, is an old brass statue of St. +Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub +their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a +statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place, stands a column grated +about with iron, whereon they report that our Blessed Savior was often +wont to lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary +under the cupola there are eight wreathed columns brought from the Temple +of Solomon. In another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or, +as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But among all the chapels the +one most glorious has for an altar-piece a Madonna bearing a dead Christ +on her knees, in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper +end of the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially that of +Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and in many other places in the church, are +confession seats, for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, +Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, etc., as it is +written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are still at +confessions some of all nations. Toward the lower end of the church, and +on the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roof, is the +_depositum_ and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with +basso-relievos about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are +also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., etc. Among the exquisite pieces +in this sumptuous fabric is that of the ship with St. Peter held up from +sinking by our Savior; the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous +Giotto, who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced by the +Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to be passed over +without observation, which with the rest of the body and walls of the +whole church, are all inlaid with the richest of _pietra-commessa_, in +the most splendid colors of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, +porphyry, calcedon, etc., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming out +by the portico at which we entered, we were shown the Porta Santa, never +opened but at the year of jubilee. This glorious foundation hath +belonging to it thirty canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight +clerks beneficed, with innumerable chaplains, etc., a Cardinal being +always archpriest; the present Cardinal was Francisco Barberini, who also +styled himself Protector of the English, to whom he was indeed very +courteous. + +20th November, 1644. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral of +St. John di Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. This is a church of +extraordinary devotion, though, for outward form, not comparable to St. +Peter's, being of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathedral, +the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself, being formerly part +of the Great Constantine's palace, and, as it is said, his chamber where +by St. Silvester he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape, +having before the entrance eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each of +one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders, supporting lesser +columns of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the molding +whereof is excellently wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have +been the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohibited from +entering, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his head. +Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. +Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near +it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and +tables, especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in +fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a +tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the +Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope +John IV. The portico of the church is built of materials brought from +Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem. + +The next sight which attracted our attention, was a wonderful concourse +of people at their devotions before a place called _Scala Sancta_, to +which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those large +marble stairs, twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on +the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step; on which you may +perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate, which they affirm to +have been drops of our Blessed Savior, at the time he was so barbarously +misused by Herod's soldiers; for these stairs are reported to have been +translated hither from his palace in Jerusalem. At the top of them is a +chapel, whereat they enter (but we could not be permitted) by gates of +marble, being the same our Savior passed when he went out of Herod's +house. This they name the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, and over it we read this +epigraph: + + _Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus._ + +Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ painted (as they +say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life. Descending again, we saw +before the church the obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of admiration. +It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V., +in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or pedestal; at the +foot nine and a half one way, and eight the other. This pillar was first +brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from +thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammianus +Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King of Egypt. It was +transferred to this city by Constantine the son of the Great, and is full +of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, etc., +containing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book +which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse learning of +that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that brought it to Rome so +many hundred leagues, must needs have been of wonderful bigness and +strange fabric. The stone is one and entire, and (having been thrown +down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope, +Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but +solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciátas: + + _Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum à + patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum + impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus + Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D._ + +On the second square: + + _Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor + Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum + suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc + conditam eo decoraret monumento._ + +On the third: + + _Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum + calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum, + multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, + formàq; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit anno + M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII._ + +On the fourth: + + _Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis + gloriam propagavit._ + +Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately public +fountain, with a statue of St. John in the middle of it), we visited His +Holiness's palace, being a little on the left hand, the design of +Fontana, architect to Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best +palaces in Rome; but not staying we entered the church of St. John di +Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learned +by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico: + + _Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali + Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u] + Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris + Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt; + Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto + Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._ + +It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwelling it seems +hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately +tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church +that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars +of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made like large +chests for the easier removal in times of persecution; such an altar is +still the great one here preserved, as being that on which (they hold) +St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may +now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of +precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over which it +is painted _á fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by +most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns. +The _soffito_ is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the +porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a tabernacle on it all +of precious stones, the work of Targoni; on this is a _coena_ of plate, +the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value; the tables hanging +over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are four excellent columns +transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brass, double gilt, +about twelve feet in height; the walls between them are incrusted with +marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be filled +with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, +Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of +this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those +of the great Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the +_sacristia_, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of +the church is a flat stone supported by four pillars which they affirm +to have been the exact height of our Blessed Savior, and say they never +fitted any mortal man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter; +two columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his passion; the +stone on which they threw lots for his seamless vesture; and the pillar +on which the cock crowed, after Peter's denial; and, to omit no fine +thing, the just length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her +shoemaker affirmed! Here is a sumptuous cross, beset with precious +stones, containing some of the VERY wood of the holy cross itself; with +many other things of this sort: also numerous most magnificent monuments, +especially those of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I., +of copper; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V., Laurentius Valla, +etc., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, designed by M. Angelo; and the great +crucifix of Sermoneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of +Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so has done +many years; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte. The two +famous Oecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope +Simachus, Martin I., Stephen, etc. + +Leaving this venerable church (for in truth it has a certain majesty in +it), we passed through a fair and large hospital of good architecture, +having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We +then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P., begun +by M. Angelo; a St. Andrew, and the bath of St. Cecilia. In this church +are some rare paintings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Reni. +Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great +chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the _tribuna_ are excellent. + +Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo +Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of +vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human +things does change from the most glorious and magnificent to the most +deformed and confused. We next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which +has a handsome front: then we passed by the place where Romulus and Remus +were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum, and so by the edge of the +Mons Palatinus; where we saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church +of St. Anacletus; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore capable of +containing a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, but now all one +entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden of pot herbs. +We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the +Chiesa Nova. + +21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliéro +Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a +choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of +polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique +basso-relievos about Rome, which this curious man had caused to be +designed in several folios: many fine medals; the stone which Pliny calls +Enhydros; it had plainly in it the quantity of half a spoonful of water, +of a yellow pebble color, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than +an amethyst, which yet he affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder +than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or anything at the +bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish yellow, more lustrous +than a diamond. He had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, +designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames; +also a number of choice designs and drawings. + +Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, where yet remain some +ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro _in vinculis_, one of +the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of +great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of the seven +Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar. On the wall is a St. +Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek manner: but what I chiefly regarded +was, that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with +that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in white marble, +and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa, by the same incomparable +hand. To this church belongs a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters +grow two tall and very stately palm trees. Behind these, we walked a turn +among the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange and prodigious receptacles +for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now all in heaps. + +22d November, 1644. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all the State +Ecclesiastical, viz, the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John +di Laterano, which, standing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, +I saw pass in this manner:--First went a guard of Switzers to make way, +and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying lances. Next followed +those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, two and two; then the +Cardinal's mace bearers; the caudatari, on mules; the masters of their +horse; the Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic +officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to +the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapolitan horses, +white as snow, covered to the ground with trappings richly embroidered; +which is a service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples +and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite +beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed three rich +litters with mules, the litters empty; the master of the horse alone, +with his squires; five trumpeters; the _armerieri estra muros_; the +fiscal and consistorial advocates; _capellani_, _camerieri de honore_, +_cubiculari_ and chamberlains, called _secreti_. + +Then followed four other _camerieri_ with four caps of the +dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four +trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, +very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffiéri_ and pages; the +secretaries of the _chancellaria_, _abbreviatori-accoliti_ in their long +robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _rôti_ and +master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes, +and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other +nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on +horseback; fourteen drums belonging to the Capitol; the marshals with +their staves; the two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of +crimson damask; the knight-gonfalonier and prior of the R. R., in velvet +toques; six of his Holiness's mace bearers; then the captain, or +governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer; the governor +of the city; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers, the +masters of the ceremonies; the cross bearer on horseback, with two +priests at each hand on foot; pages, footmen, and guards, in abundance. +Then came the Pope himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of +crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he +went he held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their +knees, or looking out of their windows and houses, with loud _vivas_ and +acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by +the master of his chamber, cup bearer, secretary, and physician; then +came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons, +Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct +habits, some in red, others in green flat hats with tassels, all on +gallant mules richly trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in +great state and multitudes; after them, the apostolical protonotary, +auditor, treasurer, and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear +guard, two pages of arms in helmets with feathers, and carrying lances; +two captains; the pontifical standard of the Church; the two _alfieri_, +or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armor and +carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and +people, made up the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano, I +could not see, by reason of the prodigious crowd; so I spent most of the +day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected +a few days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke of Parma, in +the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering +inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues +and abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they were but +temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, etc., painted and framed on the +sudden, but as to outward appearance, solid and very stately. The night +ended with fireworks. What I saw was that which was built before the +Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinita, and another, +before that of the French. The first appeared to be a mighty rock, +bearing the Pope's Arms, a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on +fire by one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet preserving +the figure both of the rock and statues a very long time; insomuch as it +was deemed ten thousand reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves +in order. That before the French Ambassador's Palace was a Diana drawn +in a chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other figures as large as the +life, which played with fire in the same manner. In the meantime, the +windows of the whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or +sconces, of several colored oiled paper, that the wind might not annoy +them; this rendered a most glorious show. Besides these, there were at +least twenty other fireworks of vast charge and rare art for their +invention before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals' Palaces, +especially that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of lights, +of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables which support the +standard pole. The streets were this night as light as day, full of +bonfires, cannon roaring, music playing, fountains running wine, in all +excess of joy and triumph. + +23d November, 1644. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front +whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments +being of rich marble. It has within a noble portico and court, sustained +by stately columns, as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of +which are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught as at +the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kircher upon a part of +Euclid, which he expounded. To this joins a glorious and ample church for +the students; a second is not fully finished; and there are two noble +libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and historian, Famianus +Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterward +bibliothecary of the Vatican library), who showed us one of the best +collections of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if they +were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses, +sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in +the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much +esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value. This gentleman not +long since purchased land in the kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging +the ground, to find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as to +be much more worth than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa +Nova, where was excellent music; but, before that began, the courteous +fathers led me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most +beautiful convent. + +28th November, 1644. I went to see the garden and house of the +Aldobrandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, +magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the most considerable about the +city. It has four fronts, and a noble piazza before it. Within the +courts, under arches supported by marble columns, are many excellent +statues. Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of white +marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendous art. For +paintings, our Savior's Head, by Correggio; several pieces of Raphael, +some of which are small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two +admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil; so is the Psyche and Cupid; +the head of St. John, borne by Herodias; two heads of Albert Durer, very +exquisite. We were shown here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence work +in stone. In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered with +citron trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the stone work entirely; +and, toward the street, at a back gate, the port is so handsomely clothed +with ivy as much pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique +bassi-relievi: two especially are placed on the ground, representing +armor, and other military furniture of the Romans; beside these, stand +about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and urns. Above all for +antiquity and curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now +known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting representing the +Roman _Sponsalia_, or celebration of their marriage, judged to be 1,400 +years old, yet are the colors very lively, and the design very entire, +though found deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake only, +it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, because this being on a wall +in a kind of banqueting house in the garden, could not be removed, but +passes with the inheritance. + +29th November, 1644. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being +near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections +that adorn it, especially the bassi-relievi and antique friezes inserted +about the stone work of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the +portico, is a rare piece; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the hall. We +were now led into those rooms above we could not see before, full of +incomparable statues and antiquities; above all, and haply preferable to +any in the world, are the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture +with each other's arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber is +the Gladiator, whetting a knife; but the Venus is without parallel, being +the masterpiece of one whose name you see graven under it in old Greek +characters; nothing in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To +this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe; some +relievi incrusted on the palace-walls; and an antique _vas_ of marble, +near six feet high. Among the pictures may be mentioned the Magdalen and +St. Peter, weeping. I pass over the cabinets and tables of _pietra +commessa_, being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of the +chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so many varieties, as to +turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a couch. I had another walk in +the garden, where are two huge vases, or baths of stone. + +I went further up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at Monte Cavallo, where +I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of the most +magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually +allowed 2,000 _scudi_ for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of +myrtle above a man's height; others of laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and +juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; a crypt, of which the laver, +or basin, is of one vast, entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows +a plentiful cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich +Mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish pond, and an ample bath. From +hence, we went to taste some rare Greco; and so home. + +Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the most +part, till the 6th of December; and, during this time, I entertained one +Signor Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. + +The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat, +to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but +famous only for the painting _á fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico +toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the +hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters +designing and copying after it, being esteemed one of the rarest pieces +of that art in the world; and with great reason. I must not omit that +incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in +the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it from the air, +being a most lively painting. There are likewise excellent things of +Baldassare, and others. + +Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairly built, +with a stately court and fountain. + +Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the _Taberna Meritoria_, +where the old Roman soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they +ever after wore. The high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of +porphyry: here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the +Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this church was the +first that was dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite piazza is +a very sumptuous fountain. + +12th December, 1644. I went again to St. Peter's to see the chapels, +churches, and grots under the whole church (like our St. Faith's under +Paul's), in which lie interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; +among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest +of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor, +St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St. +Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more +bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their +wives; too long to particularize. + +Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo Santo, the earth +consisting of several ship-loads of mold, transported from Jerusalem, +which consumes a carcass in twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare +hospital, where once was Nero's circus; the next to this is the +Inquisition-house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was not +curious to see. To this joins His Holiness's Horseguards. + +On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the many +extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their churches, at midnight +masses and sermons. I walked from church to church the whole night in +admiration at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the friars had +with much industry and craft set out, to catch the devout women and +superstitious sort of people, who never parted without dropping some +money into a vessel set on purpose; but especially observable was the +puppetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. I +thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare; by which time it was +morning. On Christmas-day his Holiness sang mass, the artillery of St. +Angelo went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord. + +29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner, +being their great feast of Thomas [à Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in +their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by +their alumni before the Cardinals. + +January, 1645. We saw pass the new officers of the people of Rome; +especially, for their noble habits were most conspicuous, the three +Consuls, now called Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, +having been sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We ended +the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova. + +6th January, 1645. Was the ceremony of our Savior's baptism in the Church +of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a great procession, del Bambino, +as they call it, where were all the magistrates, and a wonderful +concourse of people. + +7th January, 1645. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who +are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is with so much +malice in their countenances, spitting, humming, coughing, and motion, +that it is almost impossible they should hear a word from the preacher. A +conversion is very rare. + +14th January, 1645. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at +St. John Laterano. + +15th January, 1645. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have +portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry them, walked in +procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shown. + +I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a suburb by themselves; +being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed +by the Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being environed +with walls, they are locked up every night. In this place remains yet +part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had been a palace of +theirs for the ambassador of their nation, when their country was subject +to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a private house, I +found a world of people in a chamber: by and by came an old man, who +prepared and laid in order divers instruments brought by a little child +of about seven years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin; +the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the half. Then they +burnt some incense in a censer, which perfumed the room all the while the +ceremony was performing. In the basin was a little cap made of white +paper like a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the finger: also a paper of +a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole; a small instrument of silver, +cleft in the middle at one end, to take up the prepuce withal; a fine +linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in order, the women brought the +infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbi, +who carried and presented it before an altar, or cupboard, dressed up, on +which lay the five Books of Moses, and the Commandments, a little +unrolled. Before this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, +he waved the child to and fro awhile; then he delivered it to another +Rabbi, who sat all this time upon a table. While the ceremony was +performing, all the company fell singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous +tone, waving themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all their +devotions.--The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, live only upon brokage +and usury, very poor and despicable, beyond what they are in other +territories of Princes where they are permitted. + +18th January, 1645. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where +he for the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope +Symmachus, and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his +successors. That part of it added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This +leads us into divers terraces arched _sub dio_, painted by Raphael with +the histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists come from all parts +of Europe to make their studies from these designs. The foliage and +grotesque about some of the compartments are admirable. In another room +are represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in the world, +in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The stairs which ascend out of +St. Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contrived for ease; +these lead into the hall of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to +the roof, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colors and +works. So is also the pavement inlaid work; but what exceeds description +is, the _volta_, or roof itself, which is so exquisitely painted, that it +is almost impossible for the skillfullest eyes to discern whether it be +the work of the pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone. The +_Rota dentata_, in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one +goes out, the _Setella_, etc., are things of art incomparable. Certainly +this is one of the most superb and royal apartments in the world, much +too beautiful for a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink +and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of St. +Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior. + +Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapel, called the +Sàla del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the +Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered +by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry +IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, "_Coligni et sociorum +cædes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_." + +There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed: + + "_Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum + fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè + susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq; + Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam + pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio + restituta MCLXXVIII._"[24] + + [Footnote 24: Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and + violence of the Emperor Frederick I., took shelter at Venice, + where he was acknowledged, and most honorably received by the + Senate. The Emperor's son, Otho, being conquered and taken in + a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became a + suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus + his dignity was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the + Republic of Venice, MCLXXVIII.] + +This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. had +caused it to be blotted out during the difference between him and that +State; but it was now restored and refreshed by his successor, to the +great honor of the Venetians. The Battle of Lepanto is another fair +piece here. + +Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much celebrated for the Last +Judgment painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco, +upon a dead wall at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high +altar, of a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude +of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof also is full of rare +work. Hence, we went into the _sacristia_ where were showed all the most +precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the chapel. One priestly +cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, +and is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the Pope's +pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich jewels embroidered on +the instep, covered with crimson velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, +divers miters, crosiers, etc., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, +and pearl, to a very great value; a very large cross, carved (as they +affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous utensils of crystal, gold, +agate, amber, and other costly materials for the altar. + +We then went into those chambers painted with the Histories of the +burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix; the victory of +Constantine over Maxentius; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison; all by +Julio Romano, and are therefore called the Painters' Academy, because you +always find some young men or other designing from them: a civility which +is not refused in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best +masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many +excellent men in that profession. + +The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with an +ample landscape of Paul Bril's. + +We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides were painted with +views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in Italy, rarely +done, and upon the roof the chief Acts of the Roman Church since St. +Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magnificent +galleries in Europe.--Out of this we came into the Consistory, a noble +room, the _volta_ painted in grotesque, as I remember. At the upper end, +is an elevated throne and a baldachin, or canopy of state, for his +Holiness, over it. + +From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, than the +French Kings at the Louvre), but only of bare walls, we were brought into +the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poor people, to each of +whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a _mezzo grosse_. I +believe they were in number near 1,500 or 2,000 persons. + +This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and beautified of any in +the world; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, looking into a most +pleasant garden. The walls and roof are painted, not with antiques and +grotesques, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, diagrams, +and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and industry of +famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant. There were +likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers +of the church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the +entrance, viz, Hippolytus and Aristides. The General Councils are +painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the books, they are all +shut up in presses of wainscot, and not exposed on shelves to the open +air, nor are the most precious mixed among the more ordinary, which are +showed to the curious only; such are those two Virgils written on +parchment, of more than a thousand years old; the like, a Terence; the +"Acts of the Apostles" in golden capital letters; Petrarch's "Epigrams," +written with his own hand; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the +ancient manner, from whence they were first called "_Volumina_", with the +Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after, the book which our +Henry VIII. writ against Luther.[25] + + [Footnote 25: This very book, by one of those curious chances that + occasionally happen, found its way into England some forty years + ago, and was seen by the Editor of the early edition of this + "Diary." It may be worth remarking that wherever, in the course of + it, the title of "Defender of the Faith" was subjoined to the name + of Henry, the Pope had drawn his pen through the title. The name of + the King occurred in his own handwriting both at the beginning and + end; and on the binding were the Royal Arms. Its possessor had + purchased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old bookstall.] + +The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the gallery of printed +books; then the gallery of the Duke of Urban's library, in which are MSS. +of remarkable miniature, and divers Chinese, Mexican, Samaritan, +Abyssinian, and other oriental books. + +In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the books taken +from Heidelberg, of which the learned Gruter, and other great scholars, +had been keepers. These walls and _volte_ are painted with +representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection +of the obelisks; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre at Mecca. + +Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, the +Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election; the whole +manner whereof was described to us. + +Hence we went into the Pope's Armory, under the library. Over the door is +this inscription: + + "URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS." + +I hardly believe any prince in Europe is able to show a more completely +furnished library of Mars, for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000 +complete for horse and foot, and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again +by the long gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair of +stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descending with an +evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or coach, may with ease +be drawn up; the sides of the vacuity are set with columns: those at +Amboise, on the Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but +nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the Vatican gardens, +called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court, we were +showed those incomparable statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of +Laocoon with his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one entire +Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat bigger than the life, the +work of those three celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and +Artemidorus, Rhodians; it was found among the ruins of Titus's baths, and +placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed before all pictures +and statues in the world; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld +anything of art approach it. Here are also those two famous images of +Nilus with the children playing about him, and that of Tiber; Romulus and +Remus with the Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the Venus and Cupid, rare +pieces; the Mercury; Cybel; Hercules; Apollo; Antinous: most of which +are, for defense against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot +doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz, the +Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mausoleum; +also a peacock of copper, supposed to have been part of Scipio's +monument. + +In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit of ground) are +many stately fountains, especially two casting water into antique lavers, +brought from Titus's baths; some fair grots and water-works, that noble +cascade where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inventions, +walks, terraces, meanders, fruit trees, and a most goodly prospect over +the greatest part of the city. One fountain under the gate I must not +omit, consisting of three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or +proboscides of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the +inscription: + + "_Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit? + Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam._" + +23d January, 1645. We went without the walls of the city to visit St. +Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own head after +Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church was founded by the great +Constantine; the main roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, +and the Mosaic work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient +story A^o 440; as is likewise that of the _facciata_. The gates are +brass, made at Constantinopole in 1070, as you may read by those Greek +verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in +breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of +whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis +V. S. I. reparavit_." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which +they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two +excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. +Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious Oriental marbles +about the high altar, where are also four excellent paintings, whereof +one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a +Bolognian lady, named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of +excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento +are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this venerable +church, as a part of St. Anna; the head of the Woman of Samaria; the +chain which bound St. Paul, and the _eculeus_ used in tormenting the +primitive Christians. The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a +mile from the walls of the city, separated from many buildings near it +except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, going +over the mountain or little rising, upon which story says a hundred +seventy and four thousand Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, +Dioclesian, and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's and St. +Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose +Tribuna is a very fair Mosaic work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as +they are called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas that +of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in the middle; in this +they show the pillar to which St. Paul was bound, when his head was cut +off, and from whence it made three prodigious leaps, where there +immediately broke out the three remaining fountains, which give +denomination to this church. The waters are reported to be medicinal: +over each is erected an altar and a chained ladle, for better tasting of +the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of +Guido. + +25th January, 1645. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some +certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the Major-Domo not +being within, I could not formerly obtain. In the hall stands that +triumphant Colosse of one of the family, upon three figures, a modern, +but rare piece. About it stood some Gladiators; and, at the entrance into +one of the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of AGE and YOUTH, +brought hither from St. Peter's to make room for the Longinus under the +cupola. Here was the statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a +most incomparable expression of Fury, cut in stone; and a table of +_pietra-commessa_, very curious. The next chamber was all painted _a +fresco_, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the ceiling, +which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian mode is, and not poor +plaster, as ours are; some of them most richly gilt. In a third room, +stood the famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of +Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo; the +sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard, black ophite stone, +taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated by the antiquaries: +likewise two tables of brass, containing divers old Roman laws. At +another side of this chamber, was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling +from her horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever the +artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Bacchanalia, with a most +curious Silenus. The fourth room was totally environed with statues; +especially observable was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking +backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old +Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of them looking on her +face in a glass, by M. Angelo; the other is painted by Caracci. I never +saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are +not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues; +most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Cæsars +and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of +that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, +the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe +above they showed us fine wrought plate, porcelain, mazers of beaten and +solid gold, set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; a treasure, +especially the workmanship considered, of inestimable value. This is all +the Duke of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare in its +kind than the complete service of the purest crystal, for the altar of +the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, etc., were all of +the rock, incomparably sculptured, with the holy story in deep Levati; +thus was also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flowerpots, the +largest and purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked on +this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in Rome. In another +part were presses furnished with antique arms, German clocks, perpetual +motions, watches, and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture +of Pope Eugenius; a St. Bernard; and a head of marble found long since, +supposed to be a true portrait of our Blessed Savior's face. + +Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours, +who had some intendency in an hospital built on the Via Triumphalis, +called Christ's Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where the +sick lay, was paved with various colored marbles, and the walls hung with +noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the middle is a stately cupola, +under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight +of the sick, who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. +The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate the people +in pain. To this joins an apartment destined for the orphans; and there +is a school: the children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital +of the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such +children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned. In another +quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught +letters. In another, 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious +matrons, in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were +at least 2,000 more maintained in other places. I think one apartment had +in it near 1,000 beds; these are in a very long room, having an inner +passage for those who attend, with as much care, sweetness, and +conveniency as can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat. +Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. Opposite to +this, are other chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare +and difficult cure, and they have rooms apart. At the end of the long +corridor is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stored; near which +are chambers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous. +Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered to a treasurer, +who makes an inventory, and is accountable to them, or their +representatives if they die. + +To this building joins the house of the commendator, who, with his +officers attending the sick, make up ninety persons; besides a convent +and an ample church for the friars and priests who daily attend. The +church is extremely neat, and the _sacristia_ is very rich. Indeed it is +altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw. Nor +is the benefit small which divers young physicians and chirurgeons reap +by the experience they learn here among the sick, to whom those students +have free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near the Port St. +Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua Paula, being the +aqueduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; +a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the city after a journey +of thirty-five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out +of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. Situate on a +very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially +when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it +are: + + "_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto Cæsare + extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam + restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V._" + +And toward the fields: + + "_Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi + temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem._" + + * * * * * + + [One or more leaves are here wanting in Evelyn's MS., descriptive of + other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the city.] + +Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where is a public +and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and a stately fountain in +the street. Here we lay and drank excellent wine. + +28th January, 1645. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this morning +down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full of olive trees; and, anon, +pass a tower built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the banditti +who infest those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord +Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this +guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still +on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernæ_ (whither the brethren came from Rome +to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, +resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged +by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work. The country +environing this passage is hilly, but rich; on the right hand stretches +an ample plain, being the _Pomptini Campi_. We reposed this night at +Piperno, in the posthouse without the town; and here I was extremely +troubled with a sore hand, which now began to fester, from a mischance at +Rome, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule; which +are the most wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet +Virgil's Camilla born. + +The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy of about thirty +firelocks, to guard us through the cork woods (much infested with the +banditti) as far as Fossa Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now +stands a church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas Aquinas +both studied and lies buried. Here we all alighted, and were most +courteously received by the Monks, who showed us many relics of their +learned Saint and at the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof +which he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, built after +the Gothic manner; but the place is very agreeably melancholy. After +this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a +little), we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and afterward +as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul, twenty-five +feet broad, every twelve feet something ascending for the ease and firmer +footing of horse and man; both the sides are also a little raised for +those who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone, +and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with some old ruin, sepulchre, or +broken statue. In one of these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in +the time of Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady, swimming +in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as if she +had been living, neither her face discolored, nor her hair disordered; at +her feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the +vault; having flamed, as was computed, now 1,500 years, by the conjecture +that she was Tulliola, the daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus found, +and as the inscription testified. We dined this day at Terracina, +heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory, +the Circean by name. While meat was preparing, I went up into the town, +and viewed the fair remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a +church, adorned with most stately columns; its architecture has been +excellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices, moldings, and huge +white marbles of which it is built. Before the portico stands a pillar +thus inscribed: + + "_Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta + Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco;_" + +for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches. + +On another more ancient: + + "_Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus + Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. + xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit._" + +Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then: + + "_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect. + Classis.--Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, II. vir._" + +[Sidenote: FONDI] + +Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something engraven on it, but +I could not stay to consider it. Coming down again, I went toward the +sea-side to contemplate that stupendous strange rock and promontory, +cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is the +Circean Cave, which I went into a good way; it makes a dreadful noise, by +reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continually assaulting the +beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive height, +stands an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at Fondi, a +most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa, +and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph +saluted us: "_Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus +advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_." +The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it +was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by most +stupendous labor: here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres +and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi, +we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every +corner, charged with fruit. + +29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous for the generous +wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset +with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange +trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiæ], +where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a +rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable +orator was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was +delighted with the sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed among +all sorts of verdure; besides being now come within sight of the noble +city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising prospect along the +Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theater: and here we beheld that strangely +cleft rock, a frightful spectacle, which they say happened upon the +passion of our Blessed Savior; but the haste of our procaccio did not +suffer us to dwell so long on these objects and the many antiquities of +this town as we desired. + +At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot; dining at Mola, and passing Sinuessa, +Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and beheld the ruins of that vast +amphitheater and aqueduct yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded +the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massacus, celebrated for its wine, now +named Garo; and this night we lodged at a little village called St. +Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, near to Aurunca and Sessa. + +The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the Torre +di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in danger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by +debauching his enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant +plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I think, +the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw the +slender ruins of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome +and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a heap of rubbish, +except showing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces of +temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, vaults, colosses, etc., +confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is, +however, a new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out +of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples (which is about ten +or twelve English post miles) is as straight as a line, of great breadth, +fuller of travelers than I remember any of our greatest and most +frequented roads near London; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the +great fertility of the fields, planted with fruit trees, whose boles are +serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant, that it is +commonly reported one vine will load five mules with its grapes. What +adds much to the pleasure of the sight is, that the vines, climbing to +the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to +another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful picture +than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives, +pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare +fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came +three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took +leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitáno, +their gallant. + +[Sidenote: NAPLES] + +31st January, 1645. About noon we entered the city of Naples, alighting +at the Three Kings, where we found the most plentiful fare all the time +we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down +to fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat and fruits. + +The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired a coach to carry +us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a +very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which +lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent +islands, as far as Capreæ, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. +This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and +garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and +rareness of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, +churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount Vesuvius +in the distance, all in full command of the eye, make it one of the +richest landscapes in the world. + +Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called Il Castello Nuovo, +which protects the shore; but they would by no entreaty permit us to go +in; the outward defense seems to consist but in four towers, very high, +and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to this is the +tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. + +Then we went to the very noble palace of the Viceroy, partly old, and +part of a newer work; but we did not stay long here. Toward the evening, +we took the air upon the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised +in the sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa. +Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of the piazza, and adorned +with divers rare statues of copper, representing the Sirens, or Deities +of the Parthenope, spouting large streams of water into an ample shell, +all of cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance of the +Mole, where we met many of the nobility both on horseback and in their +coaches to take the fresco from the sea, as the manner is, it being in +the most advantageous quarter for good air, delight and prospect. Here we +saw divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders, the +Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and paved +with a square hewn stone. From the Mole, we ascend to a church of great +antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters +carved on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. It +is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines. + +The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and except St. Peter's in Rome, +Naples exceeds all cities for stately churches and monasteries. We were +told that this day the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be +exposed, and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of the +boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was St. Peter's, richly +adorned, the chapel especially, where that Apostle said mass, as is +testified on the wall. + +After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix +that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Benè de me +scripsisti, Thoma_." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the +monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro. + +We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, +where we spent much time in surveying the chapel of Joh. Jov. Pontanus, +and in it the several and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, +wife, children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording, +as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of +Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "_Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. +Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos +hôc in loco ponendum curavit._" + +Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the +Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect toward the sea and +city, the one full of galleys and ships, the other of stately palaces, +churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, +Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreæ, +Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the +most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is +most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister being all +laid with variously polished marbles, richly figured. They showed us a +massy cross of silver, much celebrated for the workmanship and carving, +and said to have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also is of +rare art; but above all to be admired, is the yet unfinished church of +the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, not to be equalled in Europe. +Hence, we passed by the Palazzo Caraffii, full of ancient and very noble +statues: also the palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little but +visit some friends, English merchants, resident for their negotiation; +only this morning at the Viceroy's Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses +that I had ever beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that +address and dexterity as I had never seen anything approach it. + +4th February, 1645. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities +in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of +the most observable palaces in the city, the repository of incomparable +rarities. Among the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina +and Pinna marina; the male and female chameleon; an Onocrotatus; an +extraordinary great crocodile; some of the Orcades Anates, held here for +a great rarity; likewise a salamander; the male and female Manucordiata, +the male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported the female +both lays and hatches her eggs; the mandragoras, of both sexes; Papyrus, +made of several reeds, and some of silk; tables of the rinds of trees, +written with Japonic characters; another of the branches of palm; many +Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within +its cavity; a petrified fisher's net; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a +monstrous spider, with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger. + +5th February, 1645. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which +was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music that accompanied +the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony took up most of the morning. + +6th February, 1645. We went by coach to take the air, and see the +diversions, or rather madness of the Carnival; the courtesans (who swarm +in this city to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registered and +paying a tax to the State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach, +as we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is so pestered +with these cattle, that there needs no small mortification to preserve +from their enchantment, while they display all their natural and +artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand +studied devices seek to inveigle foolish young men. + +[Sidenote: VESUVIUS] + +7th February, 1645. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles out +of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount Vesuvius. Here we +pass a fair fountain, called Labulla, which continually boils, supposed +to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridge, where on a +large upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to the +memorable eruption in 1630. + +Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules, we alighted, +crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with +our feet, now with our hands, not without many untoward slips which did +much bruise us on the various colored cinders, with which the whole +mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone, +others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I +made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive +altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the +goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, Elysian Fields, +Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a +great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at +once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. +The mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and +commonly appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. Here, as we +approached, we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out of which +issued such sulphurous blasts and smoke, that we dared not stand long +near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself down to look +over into that most frightful and terrible vorago, a stupendous pit of +near three miles in circuit, and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular +hollow cliff (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now +and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at the bottom is +plane, like an even floor, which seems to be made by the wind circling +the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped +like a great brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, +continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an +impetuous noise and roaring, like the report of many muskets discharging. +This horrid barathrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the +strangeness of the spectacle, and the mention which the old histories +make of it, as one of the most stupendous curiosities in nature, and +which made the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect +the causes, and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise +famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did so much +mischief to the State lurking among and protected by, these horrid +caverns, when it was more accessible and less dangerous than it is now; +but especially notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in +_anno_ 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the memory of +history; throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity, as +not only environed the whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed +divers towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than a +hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards, where +formerly grew the most incomparable Greco; when, bursting through the +bowels of the earth, it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling +waters, drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruction, as +is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climbed up, +through a deep valley of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a +flowing river of melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules +at the foot of the mountain. + +On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baia, and +natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we entered the mountain +Pausilypus, at the left hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre +erected on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda or cupolated column, +but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay trees. At the entrance is +this inscription: + + _Stanisi Cencovius. + 1589 + Qui cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim + Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. + Can Ree MDLIII._[26] + + [Footnote 26: Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn; + but as its sense is not very clear, and the Diary contains + instances of incorrectness in transcribing, it may be desirable + to subjoin the distich said (by Keysler in his "Travels," ii. 433) + to be the only one in the whole mausoleum: + + "_Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim + Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces._"] + +After we were advanced into this noble and altogether wonderful crypt, +consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go abreast, +cut through a rocky mountain near three quarters of a mile (by the +ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who +employed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the midway, where +there is a well bored through the diameter of this vast mountain, which +admits the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, +wherein hang divers lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under +foot; but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively in this +much-frequented passage, that we were forced at midday to use a torch. At +length, we were delivered from the bowels of the earth into one of the +most delicious plains in the world: the oranges, lemons, pomegranates, +and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green trees; for the +summer is here eternal, caused by the natural and adventitious heat of +the earth, warmed through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our +guide, who alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife, and +delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to hold it in my +hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines, and exotics grow +readily. + +[Sidenote: LAGO D'AGNANO] + +We now came to a lake of about two miles in circumference, environed with +hills; the water of it is fresh and sweet on the surface, but salt at +bottom; some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported +of that profunditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people +call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents which, involved +together about the spring, fall down from the cliffy hills into it. It +has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a +dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave; it is not above three or +four paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. Whatever +having life enters it, presently expires. Of this we made trial with two +dogs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the more +directly into the further part of the den, where he was no sooner +entered, but--without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, except +that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes being +fixed:--we drew him out dead to all appearance; but immediately plunging +him into the adjoining lake, within less than half an hour he recovered, +and swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same on another +dog, without the application of the water, and left him quite dead. The +experiment has been made on men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of +Toledo caused to go in; likewise on some Turkish slaves; two soldiers, +and other foolhardy persons, who all perished, and could never be +recovered by the water of the lake, as are dogs; for which many learned +reasons have been offered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the +Canicular-days has mentioned, colloq. 15. And certainly the most likely +is, the effect of those hot and dry vapors which ascend out of the earth, +and are condensed by the ambient cold, as appears by their converting +into crystalline drops on the top, while at the bottom it is so +excessively hot, that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a +little distance, was suddenly re-lighted. + +Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of the nature of +sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned with stone for the sick to +sweat in, the vapors here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success +in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up +a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a +furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields +Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. +We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter +of a mile in breadth, the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of +whose sides and foot break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a +noise like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud reports, +like so many guns. The heat of this place is wonderful, the earth itself +being almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so +hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds +like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water thus struggling with +those fires bubbles and spouts aloft into the air. The mouths of these +spiracles are bestrewed with variously colored cinders, which rise with +the vapor, as do many colored stones, according to the quality of the +combustible matter, insomuch as it is no little adventure to approach +them. They are, however, daily frequented both by sick and well; the +former receiving the fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed +incurable. Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they refine +in certain houses near the place, casting it into canes, to a very great +value. Near this we were showed a hill of alum, where is one of the best +mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are +found here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade themselves +that here are the gates of purgatory (for which it may be they have +erected, very near it, a convent, and named it St. Januarius), reporting +to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from +these caverns and volcanoes; with other legends of birds that are never +seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into the lake at night, +appearing no more all the week after. + +We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple, or theater, of 172 +feet in length, and about 80 in breadth, thrown down by an earthquake, +not long since; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are +many strange meanders; from which it is named the LABYRINTH; this place +is so haunted with bats, that their perpetual fluttering endangered the +putting out our links. + +[Sidenote: POZZOLO] + +Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking hills, till we came to +Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paul, when +he came into Italy, after the tempest described in the Acts of the +Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals, +antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country people, who daily +find such things among the very old ruins of those places. This town was +formerly a Greek colony, built by the Samians, a seasonable commodious +port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of Neptune's +Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and near it the stately palace and +gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterward, we visited +that admirably built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of +an entire rock, though indeed consisting of several square stones. The +inscription remains thus: "_L. Calphurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum +ornamentis D. D._;" and under it, "_L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus +Architectus_." It is now converted into a church, in which they showed us +huge bones, which they affirm to have been of some giant. + +We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact with that +bituminous sand in which the materials are laid, as the like is hardly to +be found, though all this has not been sufficient to protect it from the +fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have +almost demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remaining; a +stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune! To this joins the bridge of +Caligula, by which (having now embarked ourselves) we sailed to the +pleasant Baia, almost four miles in length, all which way that proud +Emperor would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along toward a villa of the +orator Cicero's, where we were shown the ruins of his Academy; and, at +the foot of a rock, his Baths, the waters reciprocating their tides with +the neighboring sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I +conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here float in abundance +on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable matter by the fire, which +renders them light and porous, so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep +under them, having taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for +fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place. From hence, we +coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius, where we might see divers +stately palaces that had been swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. +Coming to shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore for +its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being divided from the +sea by a bank of incredible labor, the supposed work of Hercules; it is +now half choked up with rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which +rose partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the space +of one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on the 29th September, +1538, after many terrible earthquakes, which ruined divers places +thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning +on the sudden, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in +such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their fall, making the +inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their habitations, supposing the end of +the world had been come. + +From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round +form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the +poet for the gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and where he +sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black +color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the +river Styx has its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a +Temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is controverted. +Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, +in which having gone about two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry +which leads us into a room of about ten paces long, proportionably broad +and high; the side walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic, though +now exceedingly decayed by time. Here is a short cell or rather niche, +cut out of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they +report that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is supposed +by most to have been a bath only. This subterranean grot leads quite +through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has +sunk in, so as we were constrained back again, and to creep on our +bellies, before we came to the light. It is reported Nero had once +resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that should have extended +to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. + +From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of Italy, the renowned +Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent promontory, but +is now a heap of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco Felice, +heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly +buildings; among whose heaps are frequently found statues and other +antiquities, by such as dig for them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia, +and Acheron. Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli and +Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut through the main rock, +where the vapors ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you +will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as +sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many +infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that +famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not +without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that +the sun shines on, according to that of Horace: + + "_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amoenis._" + +Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the +ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of +Venus. Here were those famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand +when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock +stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish +pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Cæsar. + +Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the +monstrous murder of Nero committed on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre +was yet shown us in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry +heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree turned into +stone, and are continually dropping. + +[Sidenote: MISENUS] + +Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, the palaces of +Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we +proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of +Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to +have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles +distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. +Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar died; and here +runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, +heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we +walked to those receptacles of water called _Piscina Mirabilis_, being a +vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in breadth, the roof propped up +with four ranks of square pillars, twelve in a row; the walls are brick, +plastered over with such a composition as for strength and politure +resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been built by Nero, as a +conservatory for fresh water; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into +which we were next led. All these crypta being now almost sunk into the +earth, show yet their former amplitude and magnificence. + +Returning toward the Baia, we again pass the Elysian Fields, so +celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their situation and verdure, +being full of myrtles and sweet shrubs, and having a most delightful +prospect toward the Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the +ruins of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus; over the arches stand +divers urns, full of Roman ashes. + +Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiquities, we retired +to our felucca, which rowed us back again toward Pozzolo, at the very +place of St. Paul's landing. Keeping along the shore, they showed us a +place where the sea water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the +island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph; and thus we leave the Baia, so +renowned for the sweet retirements of the most opulent and voluptuous +Romans. They certainly were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet +tempting site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily +invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so many stupendous +rarities to be met with, as in the circle of a few miles which environ +these blissful abodes. + +[Sidenote: NAPLES] + +8th February, 1645. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal, well +furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city is crowded with +inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. The government is held of the Pope +by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the +Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects there; +Apulia and Calabria yielding him near four millions of crowns yearly to +maintain it. The country is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty +Archbishops, and one hundred and seven Bishops; the estates of the +nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the +Vice-Roy, there is among the Chief Magistrates a High Constable, +Admiral, Chief Justice, Great Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a +Secretary; these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enrich +themselves out of the miserable people's labor, silks, manna, sugar, oil, +wine, rice, sulphur, and alum; for with all these riches is this +delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons on the +adjoining hills in form of a thick dew. The very winter here is a summer, +ever fruitful, so that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries, +apricots, and many other sorts of fruit. + +The building of the city is for the size the most magnificent of any in +Europe, the streets exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults and +conveyances under them for the sulliage; which renders them very sweet +and clean, even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 3,000 +churches and monasteries, and these the best built and adorned of any in +Italy. They greatly affect the Spanish gravity in their habit; delight in +good horses; the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches +and sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. +The women are generally well featured, but excessively libidinous. The +country people so jovial and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen +almost universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs in +praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the field with their +fiddle; they are merry, witty, and genial; all which I much attribute to +the excellent quality of the air. They have a deadly hatred to the +French, so that some of our company were flouted at for wearing red +cloaks, as the mode then was. + +This I made the _non ultra_ of my travels, sufficiently sated with +rolling up and down, and resolving within myself to be no longer an +_individuum vagum_, if ever I got home again; since, from the report of +divers experienced and curious persons, I had been assured there was +little more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, +France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and prodigious +barbarism. + +[Sidenote: ROME] + +Thus, about the 7th of February,[27] we set out on our return to Rome by +the same way we came, not daring to adventure by sea, as some of our +company were inclined to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that +coast; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place +and sepulchre of the famous duelists who decided the ancient quarrel +between their imperious neighbors with the loss of their lives. These +brothers, the Horatii and Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under +two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown with +rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which is +famous. + + [Footnote 27: Evelyn's dates in this portion of his Diary appear to + require occasionally that qualification of "about."] + +Being arrived at Rome on the 13th of February, we were again invited to +Signor Angeloni's study, where with greater leisure we surveyed the +rarities, as his cabinet and medals especially, esteemed one of the best +collections of them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps, one +of them dedicated to Pallas, the other _Laribus Sacru'_, as appeared by +their inscriptions; some old Roman rings and keys; the Egyptian Isis, +cast in iron; sundry rare basso-relievos; good pieces of paintings, +principally of Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face +admirably done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos; a great number of +pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of natural +rarities, dried animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, etc.; divers +very antique statues of brass; some lamps of so fine an earth that they +resembled cornelians, for transparency and color; hinges of Corinthian +brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in the ruins of Nero's +golden house. + +In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the palace of Gichi, +to review the works of Raphael: and, returning by St. Angelo, we saw the +castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side considered those +admirable pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons +Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor three or four +water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the +Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of +Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _á fresco_, +preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one +of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world. + +14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endowed +by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of +this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a +veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the +body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in snow-white +marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps, +and incensories of great cost. A little farther, they show us the Bath of +St. Cecilia, to which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of +the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico, taken from the +Baths of Septimius Severus. + +15th February, 1645. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber, and visited +the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of +a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the +mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here +are the ruins of the Temple of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately +hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church +of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken +altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a +cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it, +Santa Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to +be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing +also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of +Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the foot of Mount +Aventine, are the Pope's salt houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St. +Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; there, in a chapel, +is an admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about with +columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the church is a stone, cast, +as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic, while he was at mass. Hence, +we traveled toward a heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on the bank +of the Tiber, a magazine of stones; and near which formerly stood a +triumphal arch, in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins +of the bridge yet appear. + +We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a heap of potsherds, almost 200 feet +high, thought to have been thrown there and amassed by the subjects of +the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more +probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters lived; at the +summit Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it is a spacious green, +called the Hippodrome, where Olympic games were celebrated, and the +people mustered, as in our London Artillery-Ground. Going hence, to the +old wall of the city, we much admired the pyramid, or tomb, of Caius +Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient entire monuments, +inserted in the wall, with this inscription: + + "_C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pl. + VII. Vir. Epulonum._" + +And a little beneath: + + "_Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. + F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L._" + +At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which +the three Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, +bending homeward by St. Saba, by Antoninus's baths (which we entered), is +the marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and the +stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these baths. Passing by a +corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the +Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by +Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Naviculâ, so +named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal +before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a +glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathæi, +which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I +was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, +aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and +maintained in beauty at an expense of 6,000 crowns yearly, which, if not +expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the possession of a greater +revenue to another family: so curious are they in their villas and places +of pleasure, even to excess. + +The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst +of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and ancient +obelisks, full of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces, +when overthrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased and +transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earl of Arundel, +could it have been well removed to the sea. This is since set together +and placed on the stupendous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and +serving for a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope's +architect. Near this is the sepulchre of Metellus, of massy stone, pretty +entire, now called Capo di Bovo. Hence, to a small oratory, named +"_Domine, quo vadis_"; where the tradition is, that our Blessed Savior +met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again. + +St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciáta_ excepted), +but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the +ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with +the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well +full of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of +the arrows (used in shooting him). These are preserved by the Fulgentine +Monks, who have here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto +which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground; the sides, or +walls which we passed were filled with bones and dead bodies, laid (as it +were) on shelves, whereof some were shut up with broad stones and now and +then a cross, or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these +subterranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them, said to +have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, in the times of +persecution, nor seems it improbable. + +17th February, 1645. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy of the +Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signor Mancini, where the +wits of the town meet on certain days to recite poems, and debate on +several subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and stands in +an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By +these ingenious exercises, besides the learned discourses, is the purity +of the Italian tongue daily improved. The room is hung round with +devices, or emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several other +Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the +Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor +Fido, once of this society. The chief part of the day we spent in hearing +the academic exercises. + +18th February, 1645. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has a fair +front, and within are parts of the bodies of St. Mark and Marcellino; on +the Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval; +Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we +passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totally in +ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English Jesuits, with whose +Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted; who received us +courteously. They call their church and college St. Thomasso de gli +Inglesi, and is a seminary. Among other trifles, they show the relics of +Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and +many representing the sufferings of several of their society executed in +England, especially F. Campion. + +In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had seen the feet of +many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble Romans, and served +at table, as the ladies and noble women did to other poor creatures in +another room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had been thus +treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appears by the +register, which brings store of money. + +Returning homeward, I saw the palace of Cardinal Spada, where is a most +magnificent hall painted by Daniel de Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who +made the fret in the little Court; but the rare perspectives are of +Bolognesi. Near this is the Mont Pieta, instituted as a bank for the +poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon pawns. To this +joins St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or Corporation, that do +many works of charity. Hence we came through Campo di Fiori, or +herb-market, in the midst of which is a fountain casting out water of a +dolphin, in copper; and in this piazza is common execution done. + +19th February, 1645. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John +Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had his apartment in +Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as +Vice-chancellor of the Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The +building is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted marble, with +four ranks of noble lights; the principal entrance is of Fontana's +design, and all marble; the portico within sustained by massy columns; +on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by +Salviati and Vasari; and so ample is this palace, that six princes with +their families have been received in it at one time, without incommoding +each other. + +20th February, 1645. I went, as was my usual custom, and spent an +afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well as to see what antiquities I could +purchase among the people who hold market there for medals, pictures, and +such curiosities, as to hear the mountebanks prate and distribute their +medicines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedicated to sports +and pastimes, and is now the greatest market of the city, having three +most noble fountains, and the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St. +Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents +for friars and nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most +stately catafalco, or capellar ardente, for the death of the Queen of +Spain; the church was hung with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, +or funeral oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung +about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights +and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by +Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciáta_, +too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at +the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste +up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly been +one of the best statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as the +remaining bust does still show. + +21st February, 1645. I walked in the morning up the hill toward the +Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to the late Pope +Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty church, full of +rare pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still +does miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. It is a lofty +edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air. After +dinner, passing along the Strada del Corso, I observed the column of +Antoninus, passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, +heretofore erected in honor of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a +Cardinal living near it. A little further on the right hand stands the +column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius +Antoninus, comprehending in a basso-relievo of white marble his hostile +acts against the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, etc; but it is now +somewhat decayed. On the summit has been placed the image of St. Paul, of +gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 feet high, ascended by 207 +steps, receiving light by fifty-six apertures, without defacing the +sculpture. + +At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's palace, the heads +of whose pillars show them to have been Corinthian. + +Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in which stands a +sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair fountain; but the grace of this +market, and indeed the admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, +now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, and +still remaining the most entire antiquity of the city. It was built by +Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico, sustained by +thirteen pillars of Theban marble, six feet thick, and fifty-three in +height, of one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. + +Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly covered with one +cupola, seemingly suspended in the air, and receiving light by a hole in +the middle only. The structure is near as high as broad, viz, 144 feet, +not counting the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more to the +top, all of white marble; and, till Urban VIII. converted part of the +metal into ordnance of war against the Duke of Parma, and part to make +the high altar in St. Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian +brass, ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of the +cupola, richly carved in octagons in the stone. There are niches in the +walls, in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other +Gods and Goddesses; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the +other Union[28] that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up, as +she had done its fellow. There are several of these niches, one above +another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities; but the +place is now converted into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and +all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-gates, of +Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the Roman antiquities the most +worthy of notice. There lie interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di +Urbino, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. + + [Footnote 28: + + And in the cup an UNION shall he throw, + Richer than that which four successive kings + In Denmark's crown have worn. + --Shakespeare, "Hamlet," Act v. Sc. 2. + + Theobald says, an UNION is the finest sort of pearl, and has its + place in all crowns and coronets. The Latin word for a single large + pearl, it is hardly necessary to add, is _unio_.] + +Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of +architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole +Corso. + +22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a monastery of French, a +noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well +painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with +the miracles of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French +Kings. In the _pergolo_ above, the walls are wrought with excellent +perspective, especially the St. John; there are the Babylonish dials, +invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. This convent, so eminently situated on +Mons Pincius, has the entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair +garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici. + +23d February, 1645. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo degli +Incurabili, a fair church built by F. da Volterra, of good architecture, +and so is the hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I +passed the evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, +where his ashes lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins +the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius, +and in the church is the miraculous shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul +III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over the +Turks in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some rare paintings of +Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those two in the choir are by Sansovino, +and in the Chapel de Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many +great scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription: + + "_Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis, + Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo._" + +Opposite to the _facciátæ_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of +hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the +Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and +since placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of one +entire stone, and placed with great art and engines by the famous +Domenico Fontana. + +Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to +Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so prominently built as +threatening every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand +years. Under this is the burying place for the common prostitutes, where +they are put into the ground, _sans ceremonie_. + +24th February, 1645. We walked to St. Roche's and Martine's, near the +brink of the Tiber, a large hospital for both sexes. Hence, to the +Mausoleum Augusti, between the Tiber and the Via Flaminia, now much +ruined, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It +was intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and +was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed with stately trees +and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed +the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of good +marbles, especially the portico, of admirable architecture. These are +properly the University Schools, where lectures are read on Law, +Medicine, and Anatomy, and students perform their exercises. + +Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della Valle, near the former +Theater of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this church +and the Order, who are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a +chapel, of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare +paintings. Under it is a place where St. Sebastian is said to have been +beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is painted by +Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and monastery +adjoining are admirable. + +25th February, 1645. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom we usually +heard preach to a number of Jews, to be godfather to a converted Turk and +Jew. The ceremony was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la +Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; then exorcised at +their entering the church with abundance of ceremonies, and, when led +into the choir, were baptized by a Bishop, _in pontificalibus_. The Turk +lived afterward in Rome, sold hot waters and would bring us presents when +he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our cloaks; but the Jew was +believed to be a counterfeit. This church, situated on a spacious rising, +was formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and richly +adorned, and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The +paintings of the chapel are by Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the +altar is by Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of +the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt publicly here, +especially at the procession on the Annunciation, where I saw his +Holiness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., _in pontificalibus_; +dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his +tiara on his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open +armchair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue of Christ, at the +Columna, is esteemed one of the masterpieces of M. Angelo: innumerable +are the paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of +the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We returned by St. +Mark's, a stately church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by +Perugino, of the Two Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built +by the famous Bramante. + +26th February, 1645. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum Trajanum, +where his column stands yet entire, wrought with admirable basso-relievo +recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the +same proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps, +enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially disposed; in +height from the pedestal 140 feet. + +It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands St. +Peter's of gilt brass, erected by Pope Sextus V. The sculpture of this +stupendous pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus; but what is +very observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal, showing +how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins; this monument being +at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner, we took the air in +Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had +a fair palace built by several good masters on part of the ruins of +Constantine's Baths; well adorned with columns and paintings, especially +those of Guido Reni. + +27th February, 1645. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and myself walked to the +Trophies of Marius, erected in honor of his victory over the Cimbrians, +but these now taken out of their niches are placed on the balusters of +the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping on our +way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the +demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he threw down; and it +was here, they report, he deposited the wood of the true Cross, found by +his mother, Helena; in honor whereof this church was built, and in memory +of his victory over Maxentius when that holy sign appeared to him. The +edifice without is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof, +and one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to St. +Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought from Jerusalem; the walls +are of fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter, save once a +year. Under the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in +Lydian marble, and Benedict VII.; and they show a number of relics, +exposed at our request; with a phial of our blessed Savior's blood; two +thorns of his crown; three chips of the real cross; one of the nails, +wanting a point; St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the +title (put on the cross), being part of a thin board; some of Judas's +pieces of silver; and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this +venerable church joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an +ancient amphitheatre. + +Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port of St. Laurence, to +that Saint's church, and where his ashes are enshrined. This was also +built by the same great Constantine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro +Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by Honorius II. It is said +the corpse of St. Stephen, the proto martyr, was deposited here by that +of St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebastian gave it +place of its own accord. The Church has no less than seven privileged +altars, and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this +martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers +saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our +return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the +prætor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading +to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired. + +We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the +Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places; but +the most remarkable were the three races of the Barbary horses, that run +in the Strada del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on +their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their motion to +stimulate them: then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, naked men, old +and young, and boys, and abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing +is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or +_plaustrum_, where the scene, or tiring place, is made of boughs in a +rural manner, which they drive from street to street with a yoke or two +of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, +buffoons, and all manner of rabble. + +1st March, 1645. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern ceremonies +performed by a Bishop, etc., in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke +and Duchess of Bouillon received their ashes, it being the first day of +Lent. There was now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day +before of licentious people; all saints alike to appearance. + +The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues +and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix; +a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of +the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole +gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with +noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile farther, we came to Pons +Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the +miraculous sign of the cross, _In hoc signo vinces_. It was a sweet +morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence, to Aqua Claudia +again, an aqueduct finished by that Emperor at the expense of eight +millions. In the afternoon, to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo +Vaccino; and upon the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's +Temple, in the Piscina, a piazza so-called near the famous bridge built +by Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV. + +The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear the sermons, at +St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same +subjects and text yearly, full of Italian eloquence and action. On our +Lady day, 25th March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the +Minerva, the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo being fired, when he +gives portions to 500 _zitelle_ (young women), who kiss his feet in +procession, some destined to marry, some to be nuns;--the scholars of the +college celebrating the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next +day, his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent to +several great Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on our +Savior's feeding the multitude with five loaves, the ceremony ends. The +sacrament being this day exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross, the +concourse about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday, there was a +great procession, after a papal mass. + +11th April, 1645. St. Veronica's handkerchief (with the impression of our +Savior's face) was exposed, and the next day the spear, with a world of +ceremony. On Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the +Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This +finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders +to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coenâ Domini_, he both curses +and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he +went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve +poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at Whitehall; they +have clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives with his own hands, and +serves at their table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their +garments are of white woolen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The +same ceremonies are done by the Conservators and other officers of state +at St. John di Lateran; and now the table on which they say our blessed +Lord celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the +Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dressing up their +pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visit +divers. + +On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where the handkerchief, +lance, and cross were all exposed, and worshiped together. All the +confession seats were filled with devout people, and at night was a +procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves till the +blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the bare +back, having visors and masks on their faces; at every three or four +steps dashing the knotted and raveled whip cord over their shoulders, as +hard as they could lay it on; while some of the religious orders and +fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, +making all together a horrible and indeed heathenish pomp. + +The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di Laterano, so as the +whole week was spent in running from church to church, all the town in +busy devotion, great silence, and unimaginable superstition. + +Easter day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo: we went to St. +Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated mass, showed the relics +before-named, and gave a public Benediction. + +Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova; and, though there were +abundance of ceremonies at the other great churches, and great exposure +of relics, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season +of the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by reason of the heat +minding us of returning northward, we spent the rest of our time in +visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seen. Only I do not +forget the Pope's benediction of the _Gonfalone_, or Standard, and giving +the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the +University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a +foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took +coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, being +much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield, +guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about +twenty paces, which delivered us into a large entry that led us into +several streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a +strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and +described them in his book. We ever and anon came into pretty square +rooms, that seemed to be chapels with altars, and some adorned with very +ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed on the +sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut +up with a coarse flat stone, having engraven on them _Pro Christo_, or a +cross and palms, which are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all +likelihood, were the meetings of the Primitive Christians during the +persecutions, as Pliny the Younger describes them. As I was prying about, +I found a glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) with dried blood, and +two lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there +appeared nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the +chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus, after +wandering two or three miles in this subterranean meander, we returned +almost blind when we came into the daylight, and even choked by the smoke +of the torches. It is said that a French bishop and his retinue +adventuring too far into these dens, their lights going out, were never +heard of more. + +We were entertained at night with an English play at the Jesuits', where +we before had dined; and the next day at Prince Galicano's, who himself +composed the music to a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal +Pamphilio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the cardinals, the +ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. There had +been in the morning a joust and tournament of several young gentlemen on +a formal defy, to which we had been invited; the prizes being distributed +by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The lancers and swordsmen +running at tilt against the barriers, with a great deal of clatter, but +without any bloodshed, giving much diversion to the spectators, and was +new to us travelers. + +The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending the +entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the ambassador from the Grand +Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the +Villa Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is rather a +park, or a Paradise, contrived and planted with walks and shades of +myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and groves, with abundance of +fountains, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring +rivulets. Here they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was +also a vivary, where, among other exotic fowls, was an ostrich; besides a +most capacious aviary; and, in another inclosed part, a herd of deer. +Before the palace (which might become the court of a great prince) stands +a noble fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The outer walls +of the house are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the +same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with statues from +the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of +statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. +In the first hall were the Twelve Cæsars, of antique marble, and the +whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters, +and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for +I often visited this delicious place. + +This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Cardinal Medici +before the gate, and lights of several colors all about the windows +through the city, which they contrive by setting the candles in little +paper lanterns dyed with various colors, placing hundreds of them from +story to story; which renders a gallant show. + +4th May, 1645. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of Lucca, I went +to the Vatican, where, by favor of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. +Barberini, I was admitted into the Consistory, heard the ambassador make +his oration in Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or +throne, and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was presented +to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding +up his vest and surplice; and then, being sufficiently blessed with his +thumb and two fingers for that day I returned home to dinner. + +We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi, which are absolutely +the best collection in Rome. + +Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, found +on the snowy Alps; I measured the hydra, and found it not a foot long; +the three necks and fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several +pieces of serpents' skins. + +5th May, 1645. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of the city to +Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built for +a country house; but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious places +I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, +ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent +architecture) in the centre of the inclosure, rises a high hill, or +mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so formed by nature, as if it +had been cut out by art, from the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming +rather a great river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of +water, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when the sun shines +out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, wherein are curious rocks, +hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds, moving and chirping by +force of the water, with several other pageants and surprising +inventions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper ball that +continually dances about three feet above the pavement, by virtue of a +wind conveyed secretly to a hole beneath it; with many other devices to +wet the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to +the skin. In one of these theaters of water, is an Atlas spouting up the +stream to a very great height; and another monster makes a terrible +roaring with a horn; but, above all, the representation of a storm is +most natural, with such fury of rain, wind, and thunder, as one would +imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The garden has excellent walks +and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, etc., and the +goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder +that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with such encomiums. +The Palace is indeed built more like a cabinet than anything composed of +stone and mortar; it has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent +marbles and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino; the +movables are princely and rich. This was the last piece of architecture +finished by Giacomo della Porta, who built it for Pietro Cardinal +Aldobrandini, in the time of Clement VIII.[29] + + [Footnote 29: Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in + January, 1592, by the name of Clement VIII., and died in March, + 1605.] + +We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the side of +a hill called Mondragone, finished by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample +and kingly edifice. It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre +for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-grounds, +groves and solitudes. The air is so fresh and sweet, as few parts of +Italy exceed it; nor is it inferior to any palace in the city itself for +statues, pictures, and furniture; but, it growing late, we could not take +such particular notice of these things as they deserved. + +[Sidenote: TIVOLI] + +6th May, 1645. We rested ourselves; and next day, in a coach, took our +last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli, or +the old Tiburtum. At about six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a +bridge built by Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient +sepulchres, among others that of Valerius Volusi; and near it past the +stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found a heap, or +turret, full of inscriptions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at +Tivoli, we went first to see the palace d'Este, erected on a plain, but +where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the +garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting +out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast +forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular +exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho +(looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of +the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four +sweet and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water, +and in a grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius, +Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, +the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, +all of exquisite marble, copper, and other suitable adornments. The +Cupids pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns on which +are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly paved with +_pietra-commessa_, shells, coral, etc. + +Toward Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious walk, full of +fountains, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in +rarely sculptured _mezzo relievo_. At the end of this, next the wall, is +the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing +that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermæ, temples, arches, +aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running +through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the +river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and +singing till an owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes. +Near this is the fountain of dragons, casting out large streams of water +with great noise. In another grotto, called Grotto di Natura, is an +hydraulic organ; and below this are divers stews and fish ponds, in one +of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a seahorse, in +another a Triton; and lastly, a garden of simples. There are besides in +the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteads richly inlaid, and +sundry other precious movables: the whole is said to have cost the best +part of a million. + +Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial miracles, and dined, +we went to see the so famous natural precipice and cascade of the river +Anio, rushing down from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what +with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of the water +against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it and forming a +natural Iris, and the prodigious depth of the gulf below, it is enough to +astonish one that looks on it. Upon the summit of this rock stands the +ruins and some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tyburtina, +or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of its pristine +beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder drying in the sun, and a +little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. + +[Sidenote: ROME] + +And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were showed, at some +distance, the city Præneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of +ruins; and so came late to our lodging. + +We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except +what should happen to come in our way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or +myself should go to take the air: only I may not omit that one afternoon, +diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank there to allure +curious strangers, taking off a ring from his finger, which seemed set +with a dull, dark stone a little swelling out, like what we call (though +untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, and +then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and large as a +small wax candle; then, blowing it out, repeated this several times. I +have much regretted that I did not purchase the receipt of him for making +that composition at what price soever; for though there is a process in +Jo. Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several trials they +none of them have succeeded. + +Among other observations I made in Rome are these: as to coins and +medals, ten _asses_ make the Roman _denarius_, five the _quinarius_, ten +_denarii_ an _aureus_; which accompt runs almost exactly with what is now +in use of _quatrini_, _baiocs_, _julios_, and _scudi_, each exceeding the +other in the proportion of ten. The _sestertius_ was a small silver coin, +marked H. S. or rather LL^s, valued two pounds and a half of silver, viz, +250 _denarii_, about twenty-five golden _ducati_. The stamp of the Roman +_denarius_ varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma +armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were called _bigi_; if +with four, _quadrigi_: if with a Victoria, so named. The mark of the +_denarius_ was distinguished > | < thus, or X; the _quinarius_ of half +value, had, on one side, the head of Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and +Pollux on horseback, inscribed _Roma_, etc. + +I observed that in the Greek church they made the sign of the cross from +the right hand to the left; contrary to the Latins and the schismatic +Greeks; gave the benediction with the first, second, and little finger +stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance of +the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two. + +[Illustration: _LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683_ + +_Photogravure after a painting by Bridges_] + +For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and Algardi were in the +greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a statuary; who made the Andrea in St. +Peter's, and is said to have died mad because it was placed in an ill +light. Among the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has such an address +of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so well as to make his +copies pass for originals; Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a +Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armor, plate, dead life, +tapestry, etc. The chief masters of music, after Marc Antonio, the best +treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch; the next Cardinal Bichi's +eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and Nicholai, bass. The Jews in Rome wore +red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted +one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on +which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color. +There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much +solicited for an order of Jesuitesses. + +At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his cloak and hat for +murder. They struck the malefactor with a club that first stunned him, +and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at +Halifax.[30] + + [Footnote 30: A guillotine.] + +It is reported that Rome has been once no less than fifty miles in +compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 3,000 churches and chapels, +monasteries, etc. It is divided into fourteen regions or wards; has seven +mountains, and as many campi or valleys; in these are fair parks, or +gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and pleasure, at some +distance from the streets, yet within the walls. + +The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till I went +from Rome, amounting to but 616 _ducati di banco_, though I purchased +many books, pictures, and curiosities. + +18th May, 1645. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being disappointed +of moneys long expected, I was forced to return by the same way I came, +desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I +diverted to take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit by +a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such collections as I +had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about to behold this once and +yet glorious city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, give +it my last farewell. + +Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourned now +about seven months, autumn, winter, and spring, I took coach, in company +with two courteous Italian gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a +house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called +Caprarola, situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a little town, +or rather a natural and stupendous rock; witness those vast caves serving +now for cellarage, where we were entertained with most generous wine of +several sorts, being just under the foundation. The palace was built by +the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex. Farnese, in +form of an octagon, the court in the middle being exactly round, so as +rather to resemble a fort, or castle; yet the chambers within are all of +them square, which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these rooms +is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite angles may be +heard the least whisper; they say any perfect square does it. Most of the +paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an +artificial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a great +number of lodging chambers are remarkable; but most of all the pictures +and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci; the Dead Christ is +incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues and noble fountains, +especially that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and lay +that night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome. + +19th May, 1645. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day, +at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera. + +[Sidenote: SIENNA] + +21st May, 1645. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass admiring the +great church built entirely both within and without with white and black +marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a +shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles, +representing the story of both Testaments, admirably wrought. Here lies +Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life +of Æneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in +antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though +Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's +disciplining cell, the door whereof is half cut out into chips by the +pilgrims and devotees, being of deal wood. + +Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the Duomo in which the +Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The +bending tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and is +a stupendous piece of art. In the gallery of curiosities is a fair mummy; +the tail of a sea-horse; coral growing on a man's skull; a chariot +automaton; two pieces of rock crystal, in one of which is a drop of +water, in the other three or four small worms; two embalmed children; +divers petrifactions, etc. The garden of simples is well furnished, and +has in it the deadly yew, or _taxus_, of the ancients; which Dr. +Belluccio, the superintendent, affirms that his workmen cannot endure to +clip for above the space of half an hour at a time, from the pain of the +head which surprises them. + +We went hence from Leghorn, by coach, where I took up ninety crowns for +the rest of my journey, with letters of credit for Venice, after I had +sufficiently complained of my defeat of correspondence at Rome. + +The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territory and state of +itself. The city is neat and well fortified, with noble and pleasant +walks of trees on the works, where the gentry and ladies used to take the +air. It is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the +country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The church of +St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more remarkable to +us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English king,[31] who died here on +his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb: + + _Hic rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus; + Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum. + Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. + Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum. + Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ + Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, + Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum._ + + [Footnote 31: What particular Richard King of England this was, it + is impossible to say; the tomb still exists, and has long been a + _crux_ to antiquaries and travelers.] + +Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble +both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the +fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above +all venerable for that sacred _volto_ which (as tradition goes) was +miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the +artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what face to set +on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civil to strangers, above all +places in Italy, and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap +living, which causes travelers to set up their rest here more than in +Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the ladies here are +very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserved; of these +we bought gloves and embroidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen +in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy days' +journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's but having Spain for a +protector (though the least bigoted of all Roman Catholics), and being +one of the fortified cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole +country abounds in excellent olives, etc. + +[Sidenote: PISTORIA] + +Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoria, where, besides one +church, there was little observable: only in the highway we crossed a +rivulet of salt water, though many miles from the sea. The country is +extremely pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for +the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal +distances, watered with clear and plentiful streams. + +Rising early the next morning we arrived at Peggio Imperiale, being a +palace of the Great Duke, not far from the city, having omitted it in my +passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it +were of tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At the +entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the Tiber and Arno, of +marble; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. The building is +sumptuous, and curiously furnished within with cabinets of +pietra-commessa in tables, pavements, etc., which is a magnificence, or +work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures are, Adam and Eve +by Albert Durer, very excellent; as is that piece of carving in wood by +the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian +line; the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress of this +palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had seen more +magnificently adorned, or furnished. + +[Sidenote: FLORENCE] + +We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same, and other +curiosities which we had neglected on our first being at Florence. We +went, therefore, to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the +Annunciata. The story is, that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a +sack of corn of the religious of that convent, and repayment being +demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph +sitting on a sack of corn, and reading to the Blessed Virgin; a piece +infinitely valued. There fell down in the cloister an old man's face +painted on the wall in _fresco_, greatly esteemed, and broke into crumbs; +the Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it, but none +of them would presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like +another Apelles; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, +picking up the fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially +together, that the injury it had received was hardly discernible. Andrea +del Sarto lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of +Bartolomeo, who having spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel +Gabriel, and being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin, he +began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the +morning to work on the face; but, when he came, no sooner had he drawn +away the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than +an admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted; at which miracle +all the city came in to worship. It is now kept in the Chapel of the +Salutation, a place so enriched by devotees, that none in Italy, save +Loretto, is said to exceed it. This picture is always covered with three +shutters, one of which is of massy silver; methinks it is very brown, the +forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. They report that +those who have the honor of seeing it never lose their sight--happy then +we! Belonging to this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of +it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up, some of gold, +and a cabinet of precious stones. + +Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least forty ranks of +porphyry and other statues, and twenty-eight whole figures, many rare +paintings and relievos, two square columns with trophies. In one of the +galleries, twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads; a Bacchus of M. +Angelo, and one of Bandinelli; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely +Cupid, of Parian marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, +and a man fighting with a centaur; three figures in little of Andrea; a +huge candlestick of amber; a table of Titian's painting, and another +representing God the Father sitting in the air on the Four Evangelists; +animals; divers smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure virgin gold, +as big as an egg. In the third chamber of rarities is the square +cabinet, valued at 80,000 crowns, showing on every front, a variety of +curious work; one of birds and flowers, of _pietra-commessa_; one, a +descent from the cross, of M. Angelo; on the third, our Blessed Savior +and the Apostles, of amber; and, on the fourth, a crucifix of the same. +Between the pictures, two naked Venuses, by Titian; Adam and Eve, by +Durer; and several pieces of Portdenone, and del Frate. There is a globe +of six feet diameter. In the Armory, were an entire elk, a crocodile, and +among the harness, several targets and antique horse-arms, as that of +Charles V.; two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a horse's +tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old Palace, which has a +very great hall for feasts and comedies, the roof rarely painted, and the +side walls with six very large pictures representing battles, the work of +Gio. Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate; a harness of emeralds; +the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six in length, of massy +gold; in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo II., the bass-relievo +is of precious stones, his breeches covered with diamonds; the moldings +of this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with +jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription, +in rubies: + + "_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto._" + +There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an +infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice, in copper, set up +on a column by Cosmo, in 1555, after the victory over Sienna, we were +told that the Duke, asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he +answered, that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for poor +men to come at it. + +Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collection of +paintings, especially a St. Catherine of P. Veronese; a Venus of marble, +veiled from the middle to the feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman +who made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good, +and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about +Bologna. + +Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities, statues, and +pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteemed as +the most antique in Italy, and many curious manuscripts; his best +paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John, +by Raphael, and an _Ecce Homo_, by Titian. + +The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about with impresses and +devices painted, all of them relating to corn sifted from the bran; the +seats are made like breadbaskets and other rustic instruments used about +wheat, and the cushions of satin, like sacks. + +We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that +piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of naked +figures, the work of Pontormo. On the left hand is the Martyrdom of St. +Laurence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is the tomb of +Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of copper, excellently designed, +standing on two lions' feet, which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. +Over against this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has +a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. Paulus Jovius has +the honor to be buried in the cloister. Behind the choir is the superb +chapel of Ferdinand I., consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a +little hollowed; in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of +paragon, for the statue of the prince now living, all of copper gilt; +above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the Duke, in +letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pavement, and roof, are full +of precious stones united with the moldings, which are also of gilded +copper, and so are the bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle, +with the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine, +agates, onyxes, etc. On the other side are six very large columns of rock +crystal, eight figures of precious stones of several colors, inlaid in +natural figures, not inferior to the best paintings, among which are many +pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond +description. The windows without side are of white marble. The library is +the architecture of Raphael; before the port is a square vestibule of +excellent art, of all the orders, without confusion; the ascent to it +from the library is excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS. +and bound in red, chained; in all about 3,500 volumes, as they told us. + +The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately preserved and +kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance, whereof one is for a ball of +300 pounds weight, and another for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds. + +When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were: for +_pietra-commessa_ (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of various colored +marble, and other more precious stones), Dominico Benetti and Mazotti; +the best statuary, Vincentio Brochi. This statuary makes those small +figures in plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till +one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so rare an art of +bronzing them; I bought four of him. The best painter, Pietro Beretino di +Cortona. + +This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or prostitute, allowed +to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his Holiness +the Pope, but not so much in value. + +[Sidenote: BOLOGNA] + +Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Giovanni and his fellow, +we took horses for Bologna; and, by the way, alighted at a villa of the +Grand Duke's, called Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions, +with a fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a large +meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom a huge rock, +with water running in a small channel, like a cascade; on the other side, +are the gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer +retirement. The inside of the palace may compare with any in Italy for +furniture of tapestry, beds, etc., and the gardens are delicious, and +full of fountains. In the grove sits Pan feeding his flock, the water +making a melodious sound through his pipe; and a Hercules, whose club +yields a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a naked +woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another grotto is Vulcan and +his family, the walls richly composed of corals, shells, copper, and +marble figures, with the hunting of several beasts, moving by the force +of water. Here, having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down a +large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams of water gush +out of pipes concealed underneath, that interchangeably fall into each +other's channels, making a lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on +horseback may ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This +canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most surprising +magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing in the heat of the +summer. At the end of this very long walk, stands a woman in white +marble, in posture of a laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen, +very naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention of M. +Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount Parnassus, where the Muses +played to us on hydraulic organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these +waters came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue of a +giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which stands this villa. +Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a huge colosse of Jupiter +throws out a stream over the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having +in his body a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and +door. + +We took horse and supped that night at Il Ponte, passing a dreadful ridge +of the Apennines, in many places capped with snow, which covers them the +whole summer. We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The next +day we passed through Scarperia, mounting the hills again, where the +passage is so straight and precipitous toward the right hand, that we +climbed them with much care and danger; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a +fort built among the rocks, and defending the confines of the Great +Duke's territories. + +The next day we passed by the Pietramala, a burning mountain. At the +summit of this prodigious mass of hills, we had an unpleasant way to +Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertained with excellent +wine. Hence to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins +about six miles from Bologna. + +Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate in one +of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. It is built +like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The +city is of no great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit +near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli, ascended by +447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly high, is very narrow, and the +more conspicuous from another tower called Garisendi, so artificially +built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall. +It is not now so high as the other; but they say the upper part was +formerly taken down, for fear it should really fall, and do mischief. + +Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called St. Petronius, showing +the intent of the founder, had he gone on. From this, our guide led us to +the schools, which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Dominic's, +where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The stalls, or seats, of +this goodly church have the history of the Bible inlaid with several +woods, very curiously done, the work of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a +friar of that order. Among other relics, they show the two books of +Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas, and +divers other learned persons. To the church joins the convent, in the +quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their +saint. + +Then we went to the palace of the Legate; a fair brick building, as are +most of the houses and buildings, full of excellent carving and moldings, +so as nothing in stone seems to be better finished or more ornamental; +witness those excellent columns to be seen in many of their churches, +convents, and public buildings; for the whole town is so cloistered, that +one may pass from house to house through the streets without being +exposed either to rain or sun. + +Before the stately hall of this palace stands the statue of Paul IV. and +divers others; also the monument of the coronation of Charles V. The +piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only +excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in +copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich vest of cloth of +tissue, and several other ornaments, according to the fashion of his +country, which much pleased me; he was a young handsome person, of the +most stately mien. + +I would fain have seen the library of St. Savior, famous for the number +of rare manuscripts; but could not, so we went to St. Francis, a glorious +pile, and exceedingly adorned within. + +After dinner I inquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom I +brought recommendations from Rome: this learned person invented, or found +out, the composition of the _lapis illuminabilis_, or phosphorus. He +showed me their property (for he had several), being to retain the light +of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a +particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blue color, +like the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The +rest of the afternoon was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a +steep hill on the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and +groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious +retirements I ever saw; art and nature contending which shall exceed; so +as till now I never envied the life of a friar. The whole town and +country to a vast extent are under command of their eyes, almost as far +as Venice itself. In this convent there are many excellent paintings of +Guido Reni; above all, the little cloister of eight faces, painted by +Caracci in _fresco_. The carvings in wood, in the sacristy, are +admirable, as is the inlaid work about the chapel, which even emulates +the best paintings; the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of +the Savior are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things of +Raphael which we could not see. + +In the church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia, by Raphael. As +to other paintings, there is in the church of St. Gregory an excellent +picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, +with several other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. Indeed, +this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido Domenico, and a +virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many excellent +pieces, and imitates Guido so well, that many skillful artists have been +deceived. + +At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by Reni, after the manner +of Caravaggio, but better; and here they showed us that famous piece of +Christ calling St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani has +the whole frieze of his hall painted in _fresco_ by the same hand. + +Many of the religious men nourish those lapdogs which the ladies are so +fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort of spaniels, +whose noses they break when puppies; which, in my opinion, deforms them. + +At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitory of St. +Michael, I found a paper pasted near the window, containing the +dimensions of most of the famous churches in Italy compared with their +towers here, and the length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took. + + -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- + | Braccia[32] | Piede | Canna + | | di Bolognia| | di Roma. + -------------------------+-------------+---------------+-------------- + | | | + St. Pietro di Roma, longo| 284 | 473 | 84 + Cupalo del muro, alta | 210 | 350 | 60 + Torre d'Asinello, alto | 208-4/5 | 348 | 59 pr.^{mi} 6 + Dormitorio de St. Mich. a| | | + Bologn. longo | 254 | 423 | 72-1/2 + -------------------------+-----------+-----------------+-------------- + + [Footnote 32: A measure of half an ell.] + +From hence being brought to a subterranean territory of cellars, the +courteous friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines; and so we +departed to our inn. + +The city is famous also for sausages; and here is sold great quantities +of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, etc., which makes some of +their shops perfume the streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished +ourselves with wash balls, the best being made here, and being a +considerable commodity. This place has also been celebrated for lutes +made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which +were of extraordinary price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle +used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile, +especially in pasturage) are covered with housings of linen fringed at +the bottom, that dangle about them, preserving them from flies, which in +summer are very troublesome. + +[Sidenote: FERRARA] + +From this pleasant city, we proceeded toward Ferrara, carrying with us a +bulletino, or bill of health (customary in all these parts of Italy, +especially in the State of Venice) and so put ourselves into a boat that +was towed with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there +to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial +canals) at each of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the +Castle Bentivoglio, and, about night arrived at an ugly inn called _Mal +Albergo_, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we embarked +and passed that night through the Fens, where we were so pestered with +those flying glow-worms, called _Luccioli_, that one who had never heard +of them, would think the country full of sparks of fire. Beating some of +them down and applying them to a book, I could read in the dark by the +light they afforded. + +Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, where, +before we could gain entrance, our guns and arms were taken from us of +custom, the lock being taken off before, as we were advised. The city is +in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and +streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and church of St. +Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the +palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place +is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Oläo once +Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, +and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a +University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are not many fine +houses in the city, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace, +having an Angel for its sign. + +[Sidenote: VENICE] + +We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our +way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets +called Eridanus, where they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash +attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our +company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me +in this passage, and afterward did me many kindnesses at Venice. We +supped this night at a place called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient +city, Adria, which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles, +having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout vessel, and +through an artificial canal, very straight, we entered the Adige, which +carried us by break of day into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously +by Chioza (a town upon an island in this sea), and Palestina, we came +over against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where our English +merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about seven at night, after we had +stayed at least two hours for permission to land, our bill of health +being delivered, according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we +were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and +then we got to our lodging, which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's +at the Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the +town. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles, and +thirteen julios. + +June, 1645. The next morning, finding myself extremely weary and beaten +with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated +after the eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and +being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal-skin, put on the operator's +hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores, that it cost me one of +the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution +in keeping myself warm for some time after; for, coming out, I +immediately began to visit the famous places of the city; and travelers +who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and +this city well deserved our admiration, being the most wonderfully placed +of any in the world, built on so many hundred islands, in the very sea, +and at good distance from the continent. It has no fresh water except +what is reserved in cistern from rain, and such as is daily brought from +_terra firma_ in boats, yet there was no want of it, and all sorts of +excellent provisions were very cheap. + +It is said that when the Huns overran Italy, some mean fishermen and +others left the mainland, and fled for shelter to these despicable and +muddy islands, which, in process of time, by industry, are grown to the +greatness of one of the most considerable States, considered as a +Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient +Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory, by the +conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candia, Rhodes, +and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatic +Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great +pomp and ceremony, on Ascension-day; the desire of seeing this was one of +the reasons that hastened us from Rome. + +The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which are very +particular, after the eastern fashion), together with the Senate in their +gowns, embarked in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded +Bucentora, environed and followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and +boats, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, +music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the Gulf, the Duke, +at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud +acclamation is echoed from the great guns of the Arsenal, and at the +Liddo. We then returned. + +Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for land +ones, there are many old men in this city who never saw one, or rarely a +horse), we rode up and down the channels, which answer to our streets. +These vessels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of +steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and kept so +exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre; some are adorned with +carving, others lined with velvet (commonly black), with curtains and +tassels, and the seats like couches, to lie stretched on, while he who +rows, stands upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar +bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and turns with +incredible dexterity; thus passing from channel to channel, landing his +fare, or patron, at what house he pleases. The beaks of these vessels are +not unlike the ancient Roman rostrums. + +The first public building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of one +arch over the grand canal, so large as to admit a galley to row under it, +built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty shops, three +ample and stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the two +outmost nobly balustered with the same stone; a piece of architecture +much to be admired. It was evening, and the canal where the Noblesse go +to take the air, as in our Hyde Park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. +There are many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of +gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they affect to lean them +on one side, that one who is not accustomed to it, would be afraid of +over-setting. Here they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other +music, and serenading their mistresses; in another place, racing, and +other pastimes on the water, it being now exceeding hot. + +Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours, frequented by +merchants, but nothing so magnificent; from thence, my guide led me to +the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of the +merchants, especially Germans, have their lodging and diet, as in a +college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da +Castelfranco, and Titian himself. + +Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most delicious streets in +the world for the sweetness of it, and is all the way on both sides +tapestried as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other silks, +which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the first floor, +and with that variety that for near half the year spent chiefly in this +city, I hardly remember to have seen the same piece twice exposed; to +this add the perfumes, apothecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of +nightingales which they keep, that entertain you with their melody from +shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes, you would imagine yourself in +the country, when indeed you are in the middle of the sea. It is almost +as silent as the middle of a field, there being neither rattling of +coaches nor trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and +exceedingly clean, brought us through an arch into the famous piazza of +St. Mark. + +Over this porch stands that admirable clock, celebrated, next to that of +Strasburg, for its many movements; among which, about twelve and six, +which are their hours of Ave Maria, when all the town are on their knees, +come forth the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of +Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter into the clock +by another door. At the top of this turret, another automaton strikes the +quarters. An honest merchant told me that one day walking in the piazza, +he saw the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so forcibly, +as he was stooping his head near the bell, to mend something amiss at the +instant of striking, that being stunned, he reeled over the battlements, +and broke his neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on +pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble, even to the +shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in Europe, being not only +marble, but the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried +in St. Jacomo, at the end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble +range of buildings, are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent +statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is yet much more +Roman-like than the other which regards the sea, and where the church is +placed. The other range is plainly Gothic; and so we entered into St. +Mark's Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely cast +and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted red, on which, upon +great festivals, they hang flags and streamers. The church is also +Gothic; yet for the preciousness of the materials, being of several rich +marbles, abundance of porphyry, serpentine, etc., far exceeding any in +Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid history of +our blessed Savior, composed all of Mosaic over the _facciata_, below +which and over the four chief gates are cast four horses in copper as big +as the life, the same that formerly were transported from Rome by +Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.[33] They +are supported by eight porphyry columns, of very great size and value. +Being come into the church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but +what is precious. The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, +chalcedons, jaspers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also +for the work; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to the +imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand +varieties. The roof is of most excellent Mosaic; but what most persons +admire is the new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of +the church. In the midst of this rich _volto_ rise five cupolas, the +middle very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, eight of +which are of precious marbles: under these cupolas is the high altar, on +which is a reliquary of several sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, +after the Greek manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The +altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculptured the +story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble, +that support it. Behind these, are four other columns of transparent and +true Oriental alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's +Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and notable monuments of +illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals, etc., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and +others: there is likewise a vast baptistry, of copper. Among other +venerable relics is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood +preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is an image of +Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow +striking it they say, there gushed out a torrent of blood. In one of the +corners lies the body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from +the island of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of St. +Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by the Abbot Joachim +(many years before any of them were born). Going out of the church, they +showed us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor +Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, "_super +basiliscum_," etc. The doors of the church are of massy copper. There are +near 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyry and serpentine, +and brought chiefly from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in +their power. At the corner of the church, are inserted into the main wall +four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry; which they say are the +images of four brothers who poisoned one another, by which means were +escheated to the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to +the church. At the other entrance that looks toward the sea, stands in a +small chapel that statue of our Lady, made (as they affirm) of the same +stone, or rock, out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring +Israelites at Horeb, or Meriba. + + [Footnote 33: They were taken away by Bonaparte to Paris; but in + 1815, were sent back to Venice.] + +After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much too dark and +dismal, and of heavy work; the fabric,--as is much of Venice, both for +buildings and other fashions and circumstances,--after the Greeks, their +next neighbors. + +The next day, by favor of the French ambassador, I had admittance with +him to view the Reliquary, called here Tesoro di San Marco, which very +few, even of travelers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full +of presses. There are twelve breastplates or pieces of pure golden armor, +studded with precious stones, and as many crowns dedicated to St. Mark, +by so many noble Venetians, who had recovered their wives taken at sea by +the Saracens; many curious vases of agates; the cap, or coronet, of the +Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it, esteemed worth +200,000 crowns; two unicorns' horns; numerous vases and dishes of agate, +set thick with precious stones and vast pearls; divers heads of Saints +enchased in gold; a small ampulla, or glass, with our Savior's blood; a +great morsel of the real cross; one of the nails; a thorn; a fragment of +the column to which our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard or +ensign, of Constantine; a piece of St. Luke's arm; a rib of St. Stephen; +a finger of Mary Magdalen; numerous other things, which I could not +remember. But a priest, first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with +the stole about his neck, showed us the gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar +patron) written by his own hand, and whose body they show buried in the +church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago. + +The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo Veronese, +especially the Magdalen. + +A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the Senate +House, and Ducal Palace. The first court near this church is almost +wholly built of several colored sorts of marble, like checkerwork on the +outside; this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but +observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are +alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where merchants meet morning and +evening, as also the grave senators and gentlemen, to confer of state +affairs, in their gowns and caps, like so many philosophers; it is a very +noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood two square +columns of white marble, carved, which they said had been erected to hang +one of their Dukes on, who designed to make himself Sovereign. Going +through a stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues of +great value, among which is the so celebrated Eve, esteemed worth its +weight in gold; it is just opposite to the stairs where are two +Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor +built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice; and by a +well-contrived staircase were landed in the Senate hall, which appears to +be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europe, being seventy-six +paces long, and thirty-two in breadth. At the upper end, are the +Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants: in the body of the +hall, are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1,500 Senators; for +they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the +paintings of the Final Judgment, by Tintoret, esteemed among the best +pieces in Europe. On the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic, +painted by several excellent masters, especially Bassano; next them, are +the effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then, we turned +into a great Court painted with the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent +piece; afterward, into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the +most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favor of an +Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armory of the Palace, +and so to the same court we first entered, nobly built of polished white +marble, part of which is the Duke's Court, _pro tempore_; there are two +wells adorned with excellent work in copper. This led us to the seaside, +where stand those columns of ophite stone in the entire piece, of a great +height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus: these +pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius, the +architect; between them public executions are performed. + +Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island of St. George, +the galleys, gondolas, and other vessels passing to and fro, we walked +under the cloister on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most +magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the +_Zecca_, or mint; at the entrance, stand two prodigious giants, or +Hercules, of white marble; we saw them melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, +and copper. We then went up into the Procuratory, and a library of +excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After this, we +climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might have done on horseback, +as it is said one of the French Kings did; there being no stairs, or +steps, but returns that take up an entire square on the arches forty +feet, broad enough for a coach. This steeple stands by itself, without +any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the corner of the +great piazza, 230 feet in height, the foundation exceeding deep; on the +top, is an angel, that turns with the wind; and from hence is a prospect +down the Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the +surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of the sea, +in the shape of a lute, the numberless islands tacked together by no +fewer than 450 bridges. At the foot of this tower, is a public tribunal +of excellent work, in white marble polished, adorned with several brass +statues and figures of stone and mezzo-relievo, the performance of some +rare artist. + +It was now Ascension-week, and the great mart, or fair, of the whole year +was kept, everybody at liberty and jolly; the noblemen stalking with +their ladies on _choppines_. These are high-heeled shoes, particularly +affected by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep them at +home, it being very difficult to walk with them; whence, one being asked +how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they were "_mezzo carne, mezzo +legno_," half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth +is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other +habits also totally different from all nations. They wear very long, +crisp hair, of several streaks and colors, which they make so by a wash, +disheveling it on the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole +to put out their heads by; they dry them in the sun, as one may see them +at their windows. In their tire, they set silk flowers and sparkling +stones, their petticoats coming from their very arm-pits, so that they +are near three quarters and a half apron; their sleeves are made +exceedingly wide, under which their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly +tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked arms, through false +sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of point +richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of their body, which +they usually cover with a kind of yellow veil of lawn, very transparent. +Thus attired, they set their hands on the heads of two matron-like +servants, or old women, to support them, who are mumbling their beads. It +is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their gondolas, +by reason of their _choppines_; and what dwarfs they appear, when taken +down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together, +stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or +the citizens, may not wear _choppines_, but cover their bodies and faces +with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which +they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being +otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this +habit; but go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils hang +broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice. The married women go +in black veils. The nobility wear the same color, but a fine cloth lined +with taffeta, in summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the +winter, which all put on at a certain day, girt with a girdle embossed +with silver, the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts +wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, made like a sack, cast over their +left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is +not so comely; they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond +button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearls for color +and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear, most of the noble +families being very rich in jewels, especially pearls, which are always +left to the son, or brother who is destined to marry; which the eldest +seldom do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, etc. +of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the strange +variety of the several nations seen every day in the streets and piazzas; +Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with +their targets and bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negotiating +in this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with strangers. + +This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before we went to +the Opera, where comedies and other plays are represented in recitative +music, by the most excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with +variety of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of perspective, +and machines for flying in the air, and other wonderful notions; taken +together, it is one of the most magnificent and expensive diversions the +wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes +changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, and +reputed the best treble of women; but there was an eunuch who, in my +opinion, surpassed her; also a Genoese that sung an incomparable bass. +This held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, when we went +to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their ladies at +basset, a game at cards which is much used; but they play not in public, +and all that have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking +one word, and so they come in, play, lose or gain, and go away as they +please. This time of license is only in carnival and this Ascension-week; +neither are their theatres open for that other magnificence, or for +ordinary comedians, save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and +wise people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws. + +There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had resolved +to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and other parts of Syria, Egypt +and Turkey; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to +cool our drink, bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a +little cabinet of drugs in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof Captain +Powell was master), happened to be pressed for the service of the State, +to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacked by the Turks; which +altogether frustrated my design, to my great mortification. + +[Sidenote: PADUA] + +On the ... of June, we went to Padua, to the fair of their St. Anthony, +in company of divers passengers. The first _terra firma_ we landed at was +Fusina, being only an inn where we changed our barge, and were then drawn +up by horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even as a +line for twenty miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorned with +country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with oranges, +figs, and other fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas +we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observable in this +passage was buying their water of those who farm the sluices; for this +artificial river is in some places so shallow, that reserves of water are +kept with sluices, which they open and shut with a most ingenious +invention, or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up the +water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled by the stop, +or abated to the level of the other; for which every boat pays a certain +duty. Thus, we stayed near half an hour and more, at three several +places, so as it was evening before we got to Padua. This is a very +ancient city, if the tradition of Antenor's, being the founder, be not a +fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately gate: + + "_Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum + fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit, anno ante + Christum natum M. Cxviii; Senatus autem Venetus his belli + propugnaculis ornavit._" + +The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is generally +built like Bologna, on arches and on brick, so that one may walk all +around it, dry, and in the shade; which is very convenient in these hot +countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I +was this season, especially the next day, which was that of the fair, +filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and solemn procession +to their famous cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo, I met with this +subscription: + + "_Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem + Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga, + Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, + Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus._" + +Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now come to St. Antony's +(the street most of the way straight, well built, and outside excellently +painted in _fresco_), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is +erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one +Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _à la Greca_, consists of +five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. +Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles +ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three +famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieronymus +Compagno. A little higher is the choir, walled parapet-fashion, with +sundry colored stone, half relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar +within is of the same metal, which, with the candlestick and bases, is, +in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of the choir +is rarely inlaid and carved. Here are the sepulchres of many famous +persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, etc.; and among the rest, one for an +exploit at sea, has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession +bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which was a very +fine sight. + +Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see the convent of +St. Justina, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The church +is an excellent piece of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, +with a stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the ashes of +that saint. It is of _pietra-commessa_, consisting of flowers very +naturally done. The choir is inlaid with several sorts of wood +representing the holy history, finished with exceeding industry. At the +far end, is that rare painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo +Veronese; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians +had been decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister +well painted) is a dry well, covered with a brass-work grate, wherein are +the bones of divers martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an +old alabaster coffin; three of the Holy Innocents; and the bodies of St. +Maximus and Prosdocimus.[34] The dormitory above is exceedingly +commodious and stately; but what most pleased me, was the old cloister so +well painted with the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient +inscriptions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation of +the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next +day to Venice. + + [Footnote 34: St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua.] + +[Sidenote: VENICE] + +The arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnished in the world. We +entered by a strong port, always guarded, and, ascending a spacious +gallery, saw arms of back, breast, and head, for many thousands; in +another were saddles; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. Another +hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing a graff, are the smiths' +forges, where they are continually employed on anchors and iron work. +Near it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's +horns which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever being +empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters were building their +magazines of oars, masts, etc., for an hundred galleys and ships, which +have all their apparel and furniture near them. Then the foundry, where +they cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has +thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, weighing 16,573 pounds, cast +while Henry the Third dined, and put into a galley built, rigged, and +fitted for launching within that time. They have also arms for twelve +galeasses, which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty +wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain twenty-eight banks of oars, +each seven men, and to carry 1,300 men, with three masts. In another, a +magazine for fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here stands +the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contrived that the slaves +are not seen, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to sit, when he +goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200 +yards long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. Opposite these, +are the saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells, or houses, to +protect their galleys from the weather. Over the gate, as we go out, is a +room full of great and small guns, some of which discharge six times at +once. Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grapples, +grenadoes, etc., and over that arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves +arms for 400, taken from some that were in a plot against the state; +together with weapons of offense and defense for sixty-two ships; +thirty-two pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and one +prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be reckoned up what this +large place contains of this sort. There were now twenty-three galleys, +and four galley-grossi, of 100 oars to a side. The whole arsenal is +walled about, and may be in compass about three miles, with twelve towers +for the watch, besides that the sea environs it. The workmen, who are +ordinarily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive +their pay through a small hole in the gate where the governor lives. + +The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had murdered his master, for +which he had his head chopped off by an ax that slid down a frame of +timber, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at the +sea-brink; the executioner striking on the ax with a beetle; and so the +head fell off the block. + +Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is +excellent work. Indeed, the world cannot show a city of more stately +buildings, considering the extent of it, all of square stone, and as +chargeable in their foundations as superstructure, being all built on +piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the church of St. Johanne +and Paulo, before which is, in copper, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone, +on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea +Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine church, and has in it many +rare altarpieces of the best masters, especially that on the left hand, +of the Two Friars slain, which is of Titian. + +The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to the ceremony +of the schismatic Greeks, who are permitted to have their church, though +they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many +painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. Their rites +differ not much from the Latins, save that of communicating in both +species, and distribution of the holy bread. We afterward fell into a +dispute with a Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. The +church is a noble fabric. + +The church of St. Zachary is a Greek building, by Leo IV., Emperor, and +has in it the bones of that prophet, with divers other saints. Near this, +we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretin. + +Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa Maria, newly +incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyry, ophite, +and Spartan stone. Near the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, +that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul +I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the +Evangelist, where among other heroes, lies Andrea Baldarius, the inventor +of oars applied to great vessels for fighting. + +We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the school, or hall, of +that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoretto, especially the +Crucifix in the _sacristia_. We saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and +Carmelites' monastery. + +Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to the island of St. +George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well-built +church of Andrea Palladio, the great architect. The pavement, cupola, +choir, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a fine +garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though this is an island a +little distant from the city; it has also an olive orchard, all environed +by the sea. The new cloister now building has a noble staircase paved +with white and black marble. + +From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and St. Laurence, fair churches in +several islands; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani, in +St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid +work, etc. + +[Sidenote: PADUA] + +The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on the following day, we +visited the market, which is plentifully furnished, and exceedingly +cheap. Here we saw the great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of +the most magnificent in Europe; its ascent is by steps a good height, of +a reddish marble polished, much used in these parts, and happily found +not far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and forty in breadth, all +covered with lead, without any support of columns. At the further end +stands the bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In this +town is the house wherein he was born, full of inscriptions, and pretty +fair. + +Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on the ceiling the +celestial zodiac, and other astronomical figures; without side, there is +a corridor, in manner of a balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry +of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert +Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is +the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all, +the Monte Pietà, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture. +This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in +Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer +sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines +for deposit of goods, till redeemed. + +Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient University, +especially for the study of physic and anatomy. They are fairly built in +quadrangle, with cloisters beneath, and above with columns. Over the +great gate are the arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. +Mark. + + _Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies + Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium à + te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit._ + + CIC.IX. + +About the court walls, are carved in stone and painted the blazons of the +Consuls of all the nations, that from time to time have had that charge +and honor in the University, which at my being there was my worthy friend +Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree. + +The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are above, but none +of them comparable, or so much frequented, as the theater for anatomy, +which is excellently contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I +was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoon (30th July) received +my _matricula_, being resolved to spend some months here at study, +especially physic and anatomy, of both which there were now the most +famous professors in Europe. My _matricula_ contained a clause, that I, +my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all tolls and +reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy, or sell, without any +toll, etc. + +The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely furnished with +plants, and gave order to the gardener to make me a collection of them +for an _hortus hyemalis_, by permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslingius, +then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy. + +This morning, the Earl of Arundel,[35] now in this city, a famous +collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see +the garden of Mantua, where, as one enters, stands a huge _colosse_ of +Hercules. From hence to a place where was a room covered with a noble +cupola, built purposely for music; the fillings up, or cove, between the +walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better sounding; it was +also well painted. After dinner, we walked to the Palace of Foscari all' +Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, though +serving now for a court only before the house. There were now kept in it +two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, a stag, and sundry fowls, as in +a vivary. + + [Footnote 35: The celebrated Thomas, Earl of Arundel, part of whose + collection was eventually procured for the University of Oxford by + Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name _Marmora Arundeliana_.] + +[Sidenote: VENICE] + +Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over to Murano, famous +for the best glasses in the world, where having viewed their furnaces, +and seen their work, I made a collection of divers curiosities and +glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. It is the white flints +they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly small, and +mix with ashes made of a seaweed brought out of Syria, and a white sand, +that causes this manufacture to excel. The town is a Podestaria by +itself, at some miles distant on the sea from Venice, and like it, built +on several small islands. In this place, are excellent oysters, small and +well tasted like our Colchester, and they were the first, as I remember, +that I ever could eat; for I had naturally an aversion to them. + +At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full of Venetian ladies, +who come thus far in fine weather to take the air, with music and other +refreshments. Besides that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and +has divers noblemen's palaces in it, and handsome gardens. + +In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher and St. Michael, +the last of which has a church enriched and incrusted with marbles and +other architectonic ornaments, which the monks very courteously showed +us. It was built and founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona, a famous +courtesan, who purchased a great estate, and by this foundation hoped to +commute for her sins. We then rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose +church, with the monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us +awhile; and then got home. + +The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was to embark toward +Turkey, invited me on board, lying about ten miles from Venice, where we +had a dinner of English powdered beef and other good meat, with store of +wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner, the Captain +presented me with a stone he had lately brought from Grand Cairo, which +he took from the mummy-pits, full of hieroglyphics; I drew it on paper +with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr. Henshaw to +communicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting forth his great work +"Obeliscus Pamphilius," where it is described, but without mentioning my +name. The stone was afterward brought for me into England, and landed at +Wapping, where, before I could hear of it, it was broken into several +fragments, and utterly defaced, to my no small disappointment. + +The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and foot of a mummy, the +nails whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold, and the whole +body was perfect, when he brought it out of Egypt; but the avarice of the +ship's crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them. He +presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some loaves of the bread +which the Coptics use in the Holy Sacrament, with other curiosities. + +8th August, 1645. I had news from Padua of my election to be _Syndicus +Artistarum_, which caused me, after two days idling in a country villa +with the Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge +myself of that honor, because it was not only chargeable, but would have +hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place, +which did not well please my countrymen, who had labored not a little to +do me the greatest honor a stranger is capable of in that University. +Being freed from this impediment, and having taken leave of Dr. Janicius, +a Polonian, who was going as physician in the Venetian galleys to Candia, +I went again to Venice, and made a collection of several books and some +toys. Three days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied hard till +the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some other English gentlemen +whom I had left at Rome, and who made me go back to Venice, where I spent +some time in showing them what I had seen there. + +26th September, 1645. My dear friend, and till now my constant +fellow-traveler, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to return to England upon +his particular concern, and who had served his Majesty in the wars, I +accompanied him part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice. + +29th September, 1645. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest +son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy person) to see the +collection of a noble Venetian, Signor Rugini. He has a stately palace, +richly furnished with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in +an ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both Latin and +Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair pearls in two of them; +but, above all, he abounded in things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which +the yoke rattled, a pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a whole +hedgehog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and very +perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levity, sponges, +and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with innumerable more. In another +cabinet, supported by twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about +with crystal, he showed us several noble intáglios of agate, especially a +head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare cornelians, +onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of which was a drop of water not +congealed, but moving up and down, when shaken; above all, a diamond +which had a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber, wherein +were several insects, in particular one cut like a heart that contained +in it a salamander without the least defect, and many pieces of mosaic. +The fabric of this cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, +turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which was an +antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very rarely cut, and +comparable to the greatest curiosity I had ever seen of that kind for the +accurateness of the work. The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with +agates, crystals, cornelians, lazuli, etc., esteemed worth 16,000 crowns, +but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are of forged iron gilded, +since it is impossible to keep the wooden ones from the cimices. + +[Sidenote: PADUA] + +From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was so infested with +soldiers, that many houses were broken open in the night, some murders +committed, and the nuns next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced +to be on our guard with pistols and other firearms to defend our doors; +and indeed the students themselves take a barbarous liberty in the +evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all that pass by the +house where any of their companions in folly are with them. This custom +they call _chi vali_, so as the streets are very dangerous, when the +evenings grow dark; nor is it easy to reform this intolerable usage, +where there are so many strangers of several nations. + +Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as the manner here is, I +was so afflicted with an angina and sore throat, that it had almost cost +me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor +here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being called, +made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four places; which began +to give me breath, and consequently life; for I was in the utmost danger; +but, God being merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again, +when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo Pinto; where I +bought for winter provision 3,000 weight of excellent grapes, and pressed +my own wine, which proved incomparable liquor. + +This was on 10th of October. Soon after came to visit me from Venice Mr. +Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to +the Lord Chief Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another part +of the city to lodge near St. Catherine's over against the monastery of +nuns, where we hired the whole house, and lived very nobly. Here I +learned to play on the theorb, taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who +had a daughter married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung to nine +several instruments, with that skill and address as few masters in Italy +exceeded her; she likewise composed divers excellent pieces: I had never +seen any play on the Naples viol before. She presented me afterward with +two recitativos of hers, both words and music. + +31st October, 1645. Being my birthday, the nuns of St. Catherine's sent +me flowers of silkwork. We were very studious all this winter till +Christmas, when on Twelfth-day, we invited all the English and Scots in +town to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. + +[Sidenote: VENICE] + +1645-46. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but the +extreme snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to see the +solemnity, so as I stirred not from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the +world repair to Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival; the +women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising themselves in +antique dresses, with extravagant music and a thousand gambols, +traversing the streets from house to house, all places being then +accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet +water, but sometimes not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom of +hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is very dangerous, the +passages being generally narrow. The youth of the several wards and +parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes, so that it is +impossible to recount the universal madness of this place during this +time of license. The great banks are set up for those who will play at +bassett; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are open; witty +pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have their stages at every +corner. The diversions which chiefly took me up was three noble operas, +where were excellent voices and music, the most celebrated of which was +the famous Anna Rencia, whom we invited to a fish dinner after four days +in Lent, when they had given over at the theater. Accompanied with an +eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us with rare music, +both of them singing to a harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of +Venice came for her, to show her the galleys, now ready to sail for +Candia. This entertainment produced a second, given us by the English +consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house, where he had the +Genoese, the most celebrated bass in Italy, who was one of the late opera +band. This diversion held us so late at night, that, conveying a +gentlewoman who had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of +landing, we were shot at by two carbines from another gondola, in which +were a noble Venetian and his courtesan unwilling to be disturbed, which +made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, +till we were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing it +farther. + +Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and went to Padua, to +be present at the famous anatomy lecture, celebrated here with +extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole month. During this time, +I saw a woman, a child, and a man dissected with all the manual +operations of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one was performed by +Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athelsteninus Leonoenas, of whom I +purchased those rare tables of veins and nerves, and caused him to +prepare a third of the lungs, liver, and nervi _sexti par_: with the +gastric veins, which I sent into England, and afterward presented to the +Royal Society, being the first of that kind that had been seen there, +and, for aught I know, in the world, though afterward there were others. +When the anatomy lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went +to see cures done in the hospitals; and certainly as there are the +greatest helps and the most skillful physicians, so there are the most +miserable and deplorable objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I +should think, so powerful an argument against the vice reigning in this +licentious country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor creatures +undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended, and with extraordinary +charity. + +20th March, 1646. I returned to Venice, where I took leave of my friends. + +22d March, 1646. I was invited to excellent English potted venison, at +Mr. Hobbson's, a worthy merchant. + +23d March, 1646. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince of +Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going as +commander to Candia; and, in the afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my +merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me +his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious, and of good +value. + +The next day, I was conducted to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell +together in as a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage. The +bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chair, and covered with a +white veil; then two old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding +a glass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the ceremony, +pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the breaking whereof was +to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must expect disasters +and crosses amid all enjoyments. This done we had a fine banquet, and +were brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed up with +flowers, and the counterpane strewn in works. At this ceremony, we saw +divers very beautiful Portuguese Jewesses, with whom we had some +conversation. + +I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his confessor, and +obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions; without which I +was not to travel, in this pompous form: + + "_Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Señor Le + Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, + Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, + Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su + Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y + Alemania, y a esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, etc. Haviendo + de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn + Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para los Estates + de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmando de mi mano, y + sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los + menestros de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son, + supplico les dare passar libramente sin permitir que se le haya + vexation alguna antes mandar le las favor para continuar su viage. + Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo del an'o 1646._ + + _Mar. de la Fuentes, etc._" + +Having packed up my purchases of books, pictures, casts, treacle, etc. +(the making an extraordinary ceremony whereof I had been curious to +observe, for it is extremely pompous and worth seeing), I departed from +Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated poet), now newly +gotten out of England, after the Parliament had extremely worried him for +attempting to put in execution the commission of Array, and for which the +rest of his colleagues were hanged by the rebels. + +The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua, and receiving some +directions from Dr. Salvatico as to the care of my health, I prepared for +my journey toward Milan. + +It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Earl of +Arundel's. I took my leave of him in his bed, where I left that great and +excellent man in tears on some private discourse of crosses that had +befallen his illustrious family, particularly the undutifulness of his +grandson Philip turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal of Norfolk), and +the misery of his country now embroiled in civil war. He caused his +gentleman to give me directions, all written with his own hand, what +curiosities I should inquire after in my journey; and, so enjoining me to +write sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for me below, Mr. Henry +Howard (afterward Duke of Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm +Digby, and other gentlemen, who conducted me to the coach. + +The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes, so as to +emulate the best diamonds, rubies, etc., were Marco Terrasso and Gilbert. + + An account of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my + coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua: + + 11th Aug., 1645 200 + 7th Sept. 135 + 1st Oct. 100 + 15th Jan., 1646 100 + 23d April 300 + --- + 835 Ducati di Banco. + +In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray (son of Sir +Christopher, whose father had been in arms against his Majesty, and +therefore by no means welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned +man, we got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills, +celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we +found growing about them. The ways were something deep, the whole country +flat and even as a bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are +orderly planted with fruit trees, which the vines run and embrace, for +many miles, with delicious streams creeping along the ranges. + +Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining to the +Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which the famous +Palladio, born here, has exceedingly contributed, having been the +architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of +excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order; those in the +three upper corridors are Doric; under them, are shops in a spacious +piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler +design, _à la moderne_. The next morning, we visited the theater, as +being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Palladio, +in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and capable of containing 5,000 +spectators. The scene, which is all of stone, represents an imperial +city, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is +inscribed: "_Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc à +fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584_." The scene declines eleven +feet, the _soffito_ painted with clouds. To this there joins a spacious +hall for solemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the +piazza is also the _podesta_, or governor's house, the _facciata_ being +of the Corinthian order, very noble. The piazza itself is so large as to +be capable of jousts and tournaments, the nobility of this city being +exceedingly addicted to this knight-errantry, and other martial +diversions. In this place are two pillars in imitation of those at St. +Mark's at Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the other the statue +of St. John the Baptist. + +In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces than any of its +dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished (but +of stately design) by reason of the domestic dissensions between them and +those of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combining, they +might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For this reason, also, +are permitted those disorders and insolences committed at Padua among the +youth of these two territories. It is no dishonor in this country to be +some generations in finishing their palaces, that without exhausting +themselves by a vast expense at once, they may at last erect a sumptuous +pile. Count Oleine's Palace is near perfected in this manner. Count +Ulmarini is more famous for his gardens, being without the walls, +especially his _cedrario_, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my +paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all the way by their +intermixing branches for more than 200 of my single paces, and which +being full of fruit and blossoms, was a most delicious sight. In the +middle of this garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender +pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without and within, +that nothing was to be perceived but green; between the arches there +dangled festoons of the same. Here is likewise a most inextricable +labyrinth. + +I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and ingenious +apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. I +would fain have visited a palace, called the Rotunda, which was a mile +out of town, belonging to Count Martio Capra; but one of our companions +hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save drinking and +folly, caused us to take coach sooner than we should have done. + +A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio, set out in imitation +of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles exercised their horses, and the +ladies make the Corso; it is entered by a stately triumphal arch, the +invention of Palladio. + +[Sidenote: VERONA] + +Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined at Ostaria Nova, and +came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto, just over the +monument of the Scalageri,[36] formerly princes of Verona, adorned with +many devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name. + + [Footnote 36: Or della Scala.] + +Early next morning, we went about the city, which is built on the gentle +declivity, and bottom of a hill, environed in part with some considerable +mountains and downs of fine grass, like some places in the south of +England, and, on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius +overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst by the river +Adige, over which are divers stately bridges, and on its banks are many +goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in _chiaro-oscuro_ on the +outside, as are divers in this dry climate of Italy. + +The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder, too, was the +amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remains now extant. The +inhabitants call it the ARENA: it has two porticos, one within the other, +and is thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-two ranks +of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the top. The vastness of the +marble stones is stupendous. "_L. V. Flaminius, Consul. anno. urb. con. +liii._" This I esteem to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it +is so vast and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many other public +buildings for above 1,400 years. + +There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius; temples, +aqueducts, etc., showing still considerable remains in several places of +the town, and how magnificent it has formerly been. It has three strong +castles and a large and noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely +built, especially the Senate house, where we saw those celebrated statues +of Cornelius Nepos, Æmilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, all having +honored Verona by their birth; and, of later date, Julius Cæsar Scaliger, +that prodigy of learning. + +In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa where are walks +cut out of the main rock, from whence we had a pleasant prospect of +Mantua and Parma, though at great distance. At the entrance of this +garden, grows the goodliest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a +pyramid; it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, entirely +covered, and thick to the base. + +Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, among other rarities, a St. Dorothea, +of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especially of Parmensis, +belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account of his absence. + +Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honored it with; for in my +opinion, the situation is the most delightful I ever saw, it is so +sweetly mixed with rising ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with +trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn, +for the vines reach from tree to tree; here, of all places I have seen in +Italy, would I fix a residence. Well has that learned man given it the +name of the very eye of the world: + + "_Oscelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli, + Flos Urbium, flos cornicuumq' amoenum, + Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona._" + +The next morning we traveled over the downs where Marius fought and +fancied ourselves about Winchester, and the country toward Dorsetshire. +We dined at an inn called Cavalli Caschieri, near Peschiera, a very +strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and near the Lago di Garda, which +disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles in length, highly +spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as the most pleasant spot in Italy, +for which reason I observed it with the more diligence, alighting out of +the coach, and going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a +gentleman's country-house, from whence indeed it presents a most +surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings about it produce +oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other tempting fruits, and the waters +abound in excellent fish, especially trouts. In the middle of this lake +stands Sermonea, on an island; here Captain Wray bought a pretty nag of +the master of our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, +our hostess, was so unwilling to part with, that she did nothing but kiss +and weep and hang about the horse's neck, till the captain rode away. + +[Sidenote: BRESCIA] + +We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traversed, +according to our custom, in search of antiquities and new sights. Here, I +purchased of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine +pistoles, this city being famous for these firearms, and that workman, +Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city consists most in artists, +every shop abounding in guns, swords, armorers, etc. Most of the workmen +come out of Germany. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle is +built on a hill. The streets abound in fair fountains. The Torre della +Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and the Senate house is inferior to +few. The piazza is but indifferent; some of the houses arched as at +Padua. The Cathedral was under repair. We would from hence have visited +Parma, Piacenza, Mantua, etc.; but the banditti and other dangerous +parties being abroad, committing many enormities, we were contented with +a Pisgah sight of them. + +We dined next day, at Ursa Vecchia, and, after dinner, passed by an +exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called Ursa Nova, on their +frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and so by Sonano, where we enter the +Spanish dominions, and that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to +Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, and +so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with an ample piazza. + +[Sidenote: MILAN] + +Early next day, after four miles' riding, we entered into the State of +Milan, and passed by Lodi, a great city famous for cheese, little short +of the best Parmeggiano. We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming +to Milan, where we met half a dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet did us +no harm. Then, passing as through a continual garden, we went on with +exceeding pleasure; for it is the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as +even and straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with +fruit about the inclosures, vines to every tree at equal distances, and +watered with frequent streams. There was likewise much corn, and olives +in abundance. At approach of the city, some of our company, in dread of +the Inquisition (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing +away some Protestant books and papers. We arrived about three in the +afternoon, when the officers searched us thoroughly for prohibited goods; +but, finding we were only gentlemen travelers, dismissed us for a small +reward, and we went quietly to our inn, the THREE KINGS, where, for that +day, we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next morning, we +delivered our letters of recommendation to the learned and courteous +Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the +remarkable places of the town, the first of which was the famous +Cathedral. We entered by a portico, so little inferior to that of Rome +that, when it is finished, it will be hard to say which is the fairest; +the materials are all of white and black marble, with columns of great +height, of Egyptian granite. The outside of the church is so full of +sculpture, that you may number 4,000 statues, all of white marble, among +which that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The church is +very spacious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. +About the choir, the sacred Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white +marble, nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the church +are the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in the vault beneath is his +body before the high altar, grated, and inclosed, in one of the largest +crystals in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is +all of marble within and without, and even covered with great planks of +marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are most beautifully painted. +Here are two very fair and excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the +midst of a fair piazza, and in the center of the city. + +Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quadrangle, +the architecture of Theobaldi, who designed much for Philip II. in the +Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence, into the Governor's Palace, +who was Constable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapestries and +pictures, I adventured so far alone, that peeping into a chamber where +the great man was under the barber's hands, he sent one of his negroes (a +slave) to know what I was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was +only admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his lord, I +heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on which I retired with all +the speed I could, passed the guard of Swiss, got into the street, and in +a moment to my company, who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, which in +truth is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern. After +dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, +built by Bramante; the carvings of the marble _facciata_ are by Annibal +Fontana, whom they esteem at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In +a room joining to the church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse, of the +same sculptor's work, which they will not expose to the air. There are +two _sacristias_, in one of which is a fine Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; +in the other is one of Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world +admires. The Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and +embroidered copes, which are kept in presses. + +Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular cloister of a +vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 50,000 +crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a cross building for the +sick, and, just under it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places +of the Infirmary. + +There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for by +the same Borromeo and his nephew, the last Cardinal Frederico, some not +yet finished, but of excellent design. + +In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies of the three +Magi, since translated to Cologne in Germany; they, however, preserve the +tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star, and, under +it, "_Sepulchrum trium Magorum_." + +Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of marble, and the ruins +of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing: + + "_Imp. Cæsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico Maxi + Tribi Pot. VII. Impi IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi + Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervæ + Abnepoti Dec. Dec._" + +We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of Madonna delle +Grazie, and in the refectory admired that celebrated _Coena Domini_ of +Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the +same that the great virtuoso, Francis I., of France, was so enamored of, +that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding it about with ribs +of iron and timber, to convey it into France. It is indeed one of the +rarest paintings that was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in the +service of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King, coming to visit +him in his old age and sickness, he expired in his arms. But this +incomparable piece is now exceedingly impaired. + +Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to visit us, and took +us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Library, where Cardinal Fred +Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing +with curiosities, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable value +among painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest artists. There are +many rare things of Hans Breugel, and among them the Four Elements. In +this room, stands the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero +Galeazzo Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several drawings by +Da Vinci; but these we could not see, the keeper of them being out of +town, and he always carrying the keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who +had seen them, told me all but one book are small that a huge folio +contained 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, etc. But whereas the +inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered £1,000 for +them,--the truth is, and my Lord himself told me, that it was he who +treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the name and by permission of the +King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the +bargain; but my Lord, having seen them since, did not think them of so +much worth. + +In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the right hand of the +door, is a small wainscot closet, furnished with rare manuscripts. Two +original letters of the Grand Signor were shown us, sent to two Popes, +one of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia], and the other +mentioning the head of the lance which pierced our Blessed Savior's side, +as a present to the Pope: I would feign have gotten a copy of them, but +could not; I hear, however, that they are since translated into Italian, +and that therein is a most honorable mention of Christ. + +We revisited St. Ambrose's church. The high altar is supported by four +porphyry columns, and under it lie the remains of that holy man. Near it +they showed us a pit, or well (an obscure place it is), where they say +St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine, and recited the _Te Deum_; for so +imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils that +have been held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings and +Emperors, receiving the iron crown from the Archbishop of this see.[37] +They show the History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The high +altar is wonderfully rich. + + [Footnote 37: Bonaparte afterward took it, and placed it on his own + head.] + +Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe: it has no suburbs, +but is circled with a stately wall for ten miles, in the center of a +country that seems to flow with milk and honey. The air is excellent; the +fields fruitful to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of +provisions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 monasteries, and 40,000 +inhabitants; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, full of +sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especially for works in crystal, +which is here cheap, being found among the Alps. They have curious +straw-work among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good river, and a +citadel at some small distance from the city, commanding it, of great +strength for its works and munitions of all kinds. It was built by +Galeatius II., and consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and +fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth; has two +strong towers as one enters, and within is another fort, and spacious +lodgings for the soldiers, and for exercising them. No accommodation for +strength is wanting, and all exactly uniform. They have here also all +sorts of work and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and provisions. The +fosse is of spring water, with a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts +vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vasques Coronada was now Governor; the +garrison Spaniards only. + +There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Signor +Septalla, a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendom for his +learning and virtues. Among other things, he showed us an Indian wood, +that has the perfect scent of civet; a flint, or pebble, that has a +quantity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being clear as +agate; divers crystals that have water moving in them, some of them +having plants, leaves, and hog's bristles in them; much amber full of +insects, and divers things of woven amianthus. + +Milan is a sweet place, and though the streets are narrow, they abound in +rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every +night. Walking a turn in the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who +passed by, hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while +earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant, desiring we would +honor him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, +he not speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with thanks, +though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed what might be the meaning +of it in this jealous place; but on inquiry, it was told us he was a +Scots Colonel, who had an honorable command in the city, so that we +agreed to go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an opera +represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in excellent music with +rare scenes, in which there acted a celebrated beauty. + +Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant again to +conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace, richly +furnished. There were other guests, all soldiers, one of them a +Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he +excused his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us; telling us it +was his custom, when he heard of any English travelers (who but rarely +would be known to pass through that city for fear of the Inquisition), to +invite them to his house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous +dinner; and the wine was so tempting, that after some healths had gone +about, and we had risen from the table, the Colonel led us into his hall, +where there hung up divers colors, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other +arms, being trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the +enemy; among them, he would needs bestow a pair of pistols on Captain +Wray, one of our fellow-travelers, and a good drinking gentleman, and on +me a Turkish bridle woven with silk and very curiously embossed, with +other silk trappings, to which hung a half moon finely wrought, which he +had taken from a bashaw whom he had slain. With this glorious spoil, I +rode the rest of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterward +into England. He then showed us a stable of brave horses, with his menage +and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caused to be brought out, which he +mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman. When +this was done, and he had alighted,--contrary to the advice of his groom +and page, who knew the nature of the beast, and that their master was a +little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse that had not yet +been managed and was very ungovernable, but was otherwise a very +beautiful creature; this he mounting, the horse, getting the reins in a +full _carriere_, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing +the Colonel so forcibly against the wall of the menage, that though he +sat on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the jade on all fours again, he +desired to be taken down and so led in, where he cast himself on a +pallet; and, with infinite lamentations, after some time we took leave of +him, being now speechless. The next morning, going to visit him, we found +before the door the canopy which they usually carry over the host, and +some with lighted tapers; which made us suspect he was in a very sad +condition, and so indeed we found him, an Irish Friar standing by his +bedside as confessing him, or at least disguising a confession, and +other ceremonies used _in extremis_; for we afterward learned that the +gentleman was a Protestant, and had this Friar, his confidant; which was +a dangerous thing at Milan, had it been but suspected. At our entrance, +he sighed grievously, and held up his hands, but was not able to speak. +After vomiting some blood, he kindly took us all by the hand, and made +signs that he should see us no more, which made us take our leave of him +with extreme reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad +disaster made us consult about our departure as soon as we could, not +knowing how we might be inquired after, or engaged, the Inquisition being +so cruelly formidable and inevitable, on the least suspicion. The next +morning, therefore, discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to +carry us to the foot of the Alps, not a little concerned for the death of +the Colonel, which we now heard of, and who had so courteously +entertained us. + +The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a considerable +river into Lago Maggiore; here, at dinner, were two or three Jesuits, who +were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declined conversation with +as decently as we could; so we pursued our journey through a most +fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and uncomfortable. At night, we +lay at Sesto. + +The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in a boat to carry us +over the lake (being one of the largest in Europe), and whence we could +see the towering Alps, and among them the great San Bernardo, esteemed +the highest mountain in Europe, appearing to be some miles above the +clouds. Through this vast water, passes the river Ticinus, which +discharges itself into the Po, by which means Helvetia transports her +merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to leave behind us. + +Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled ashore at Arona, a +strong town belonging to the Duchy of Milan, where, being examined by the +Governor, and paying a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this +fort, is Angiera, another small town, the passage very pleasant with the +prospect of the Alps covered with pine and fir trees, and above them +snow. We passed the pretty island Isabella, about the middle of the +lake, on which is a fair house built on a mount; indeed, the whole island +is a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set above with +orange and citron trees. + +[Sidenote: ISOLA] + +The next we saw was Isola, and we left on our right hand the Isle of St. +Jovanni; and so sailing by another small town built also on an island, we +arrived at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, +and at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were suddenly +after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in the world, and +where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature had here swept up +the rubbish of the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of +Lombardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming from Venice. In +this wretched place, I lay on a bed stuffed with leaves, which made such +a crackling and did so prick my skin through the tick, that I could not +sleep. The next morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we could not +get horses; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied with a loop to put our +feet in, which supplied the place of other trappings. Thus, with my +gallant steed, bridled with my Turkish present, we passed through a +reasonably pleasant but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo, where +we rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the Governor would press +another on us, that his secretary might get a crown. Here we exchanged +our asses for mules, sure-footed on the hills and precipices, being +accustomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought that night +through very steep, craggy, and dangerous passages to a village called +Vedra, being the last of the King of Spain's dominions in the Duchy of +Milan. We had a very infamous wretched lodging. + +The next morning we mounted again through strange, horrid, and fearful +crags and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and only inhabited by bears, +wolves, and wild goats; nor could we anywhere see above a pistol shot +before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains, whose +tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies, and in many places +pierced the clouds. Some of these vast mountains were but one entire +stone, between whose clefts now and then precipitated great cataracts of +melted snow, and other waters, which made a terrible roaring, echoing +from the rocks and cavities; and these waters in some places breaking in +the fall, wet us as if we had passed through a mist, so as we could +neither see nor hear one another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we +jogged on our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only by +felling huge fir trees, and laying them athwart from mountain to +mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth, are very dangerous, and so +are the passages and edges made by cutting away the main rock; others in +steps; and in some places we pass between mountains that have been broken +and fallen on one another; which is very terrible, and one had need of a +sure foot and steady head to climb some of these precipices, besides that +they are harbors for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted +travelers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now freezing in the +snow, and anon frying by the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs +as we descend lower, when we meet now and then a few miserable cottages +so built upon the declining of the rocks, as one would expect their +sliding down. Among these, inhabit a goodly sort of people, having +monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing to their throats, some of +which I have seen as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under +their chins; among the women especially, and that so ponderous, as that +to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about their head, and coming +under the chin to support it; but _quis tumidum guttur miratur in +Alpibus?_ Their drinking so much snow water is thought to be the cause of +it; the men using more wine, are not so strumous as the women. The truth +is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many great water drinkers +here have not these prodigious tumors; it runs, as we say, in the blood, +and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shriveled and +deformed, by its drawing the skin of the face down, that nothing can be +more frightful; to this add a strange puffing dress, furs, and that +barbarous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French, and +Italian. The people are of great stature, extremely fierce and rude, yet +very honest and trusty. + +[Sidenote: MOUNT SAMPION] + +This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we came in prospect of +Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its summit a few huts +and a chapel. Approaching this, Captain Wray's water spaniel (a huge +filthy cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a herd of goats +down the rocks into a river made by the melting of the snow. Arrived at +our cold harbor (though the house had a stove in every room) and supping +on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in cupboards so +high from the floor, that we climbed them by a ladder; we were covered +with feathers, that is, we lay between two ticks stuffed with them, and +all little enough to keep one warm. The ceilings of the rooms are +strangely low for those tall people. The house was now (in September) +half covered with snow, nor is there a tree, or a bush, growing within +many miles. + +From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten away the next +morning; but, as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young fellow +demanding money for a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray's dog had +killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying in the cold, +we set spurs and endeavored to ride away, when a multitude of people +being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sunday morning +and attending for the priest to say mass), they stopped our mules, beat +us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our carbines, drew us into one +of the rooms of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus we continued +prisoners till mass was ended, and then came half a score grim Swiss, +who, taking on them to be magistrates, sat down on the table, and +condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat, and ten more for attempting +to ride away, threatening that if we did not pay it speedily, they would +send us to prison, and keep us to a day of public justice, where, as they +perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pretended we had +primed our carbines and would have shot some of them (as indeed the +Captain was about to do), we might have had our heads cut off, as we were +told afterward, for that among these rude people a very small misdemeanor +does often meet that sentence. Though the proceedings appeared highly +unjust, on consultation among ourselves we thought it safer to rid +ourselves out of their hands, and the trouble we were brought into; and +therefore we patiently laid down the money, and with fierce countenances +had our mules and arms delivered to us, and glad we were to escape as we +did. This was cold entertainment, but our journey after was colder, the +rest of the way having been (as they told us) covered with snow since the +Creation; no man remembered it to be without; and because, by the +frequent snowing, the tracks are continually filled up, we passed by +several tall masts set up to guide travelers, so as for many miles they +stand in ken of one another, like to our beacons. In some places, where +there is a cleft between two mountains, the snow fills it up, while the +bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen arch of snow, and that +so hard as to bear the greatest weight; for as it snows often, so it +perpetually freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flawed the very +skin of my face. + +Beginning now to descend a little, Captain Wray's horse (that was our +sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging through a bank of loose +snow, slid down a frightful precipice, which so incensed the choleric +cavalier, his master, that he was sending a brace of bullets into the +poor beast, lest our guide should recover him, and run away with his +burden; but, just as he was lifting up his carbine, we gave such a shout, +and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging +through the snow, he fell from another steep place into another bottom, +near a path we were to pass. It was yet a good while ere we got to him, +but at last we recovered the place, and, easing him of his charge, hauled +him out of the snow, where he had been certainly frozen in, if we had not +prevented it, before night. It was as we judged almost two miles that he +had slid and fallen, yet without any other harm than the benumbing of his +limbs for the present, but, with lusty rubbing and chafing he began to +move, and, after a little walking, performed his journey well enough. All +this way, affrighted with the disaster of this horse, we trudged on foot, +driving our mules before us; sometimes we fell, sometimes we slid, +through this ocean of snow, which after October is impassible. Toward +night, we came into a larger way, through vast woods of pines, which +clothe the middle parts of these rocks. Here, they were burning some to +make pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we do to make +charcoal, reserving what melts from them, which hardens into pitch. We +passed several cascades of dissolved snow, that had made channels of +formidable depth in the crevices of the mountains, and with such a +fearful roaring as we could hear it for seven long miles. It is from +these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, which pass through all France +and Germany, derive their originals. Late at night, we got to a town +called Briga, at the foot of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost every +door had nailed on the outside and next the street a bear's, wolf's, or +fox's head, and divers of them, all three; a savage kind of sight, but, +as the Alps are full of the beasts, the people often kill them. The next +morning, we returned to our guide, and took fresh mules, and another to +conduct us to the Lake of Geneva, passing through as pleasant a country +as that we had just traveled was melancholy and troublesome. A strange +and sudden change it seemed; for the reverberation of the sunbeams from +the mountains and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above +two flight-shots in breadth, for a very great number of miles, renders +the passage excessively hot. Through such extremes we continued our +journey, that goodly river, the Rhone, gliding by us in a narrow and +quiet channel almost in the middle of this Canton, fertilizing the +country for grass and corn, which grow here in abundance. + +[Sidenote: SION] + +We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city, a bishop's seat, +and the head of Valesia. There is a castle, and the bishop who resides in +it, has both civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the +custom of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had +been a Colonel in France: he treated us with extreme civility, and was so +displeased at the usage we received at Mount Sampion, that he would needs +give us a letter to the Governor of the country, who resided at St. +Maurice, which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront. This was +a true old blade, and had been a very curious virtuoso, as we found by a +handsome collection of books, medals, pictures, shells, and other +antiquities. He showed two heads and horns of the true capricorn, which +animal he told us was frequently killed among the mountains; one branch +of them was as much as I could well lift, and near as high as my head, +not much unlike the greater sort of goat's, save that they bent forward, +by help whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence +the inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak prodigious things of +their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing, +notwithstanding their being cloven-footed, unapt (one would think) to +take hold and walk so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The +Colonel would have given me one of these beams, but the want of a +convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to refuse his courtesy. +He told me that in the castle there were some Roman and Christian +antiquities, and he had some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited +us to his country-house, where he said he had better pictures, and other +rarities; but, our time being short, I could not persuade my companions +to stay and visit the places he would have had us see, nor the offer he +made to show us the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts. The +next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty well-fashioned +young woman, with a small ruby ring, we parted somewhat late from our +generous host. + +Passing through the same pleasant valley between the horrid mountains on +either hand, like a gallery many miles in length, we got to Martigni, +where also we were well entertained. The houses in this country are all +built of fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The +people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very odd fashion, for the +most part in blue cloth, very whole and warm, with little variety of +distinction between the gentleman and common sort, by a law of their +country being exceedingly frugal. Add to this their great honesty and +fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part with: I saw not one +beggar. We paid the value of twenty shillings English, for a day's hire +of one horse. Every man goes with a sword by his side, the whole country +well disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such +ill success against them; one lusty Swiss at their narrow passages is +sufficient to repel a legion. It is a frequent thing here for a young +tradesman, or farmer, to leave his wife and children for twelve or +fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain, France, Italy, +or Germany, and then return again to work. I look upon this country to be +the safest spot of all Europe, neither envied nor envying; nor are any of +them rich, nor poor; they live in great simplicity and tranquillity; +and, though of the fourteen Cantons half be Roman Catholics, the rest +reformed, yet they mutually agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and +are its only security against its potent neighbors, as they themselves +are from being attacked by the greater potentates, by the mutual jealousy +of their neighbors, as either of them would be overbalanced, should the +Swiss, who are wholly mercenary and auxiliaries, be subjected to France +or Spain. + +[Sidenote: BEVERETTA] + +[Sidenote: GENEVA] + +We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome town and residence +of the President, where justice is done. To him we presented our letter +from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had received for killing a +wretched goat, which so incensed him, that he swore if we would stay he +would not only help us to recover our money again, but most severely +punish the whole rabble; but our desire of revenge had by this time +subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so near France, which we reckoned +as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him; but we +excused ourselves, and, returning to our inn, while we were eating +something before we took horse, the Governor had caused two pages to +bring us a present of two great vessels of covered plate full of +excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded the youths; +they were two vast bowls supported by two Swiss, handsomely wrought after +the German manner. This civility and that of our host at Sion, perfectly +reconciled us to the highlanders; and so, proceeding on our journey we +passed this afternoon through the gate which divides the Valais from the +Duchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so, through Montei, +we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being extremely weary and +complaining of my head, and finding little accommodation in the house, I +caused one of our hostess's daughters to be removed out of her bed and +went immediately into it while it was yet warm, being so heavy with pain +and drowsiness that I would not stay to have the sheets changed; but I +shortly after paid dearly for my impatience, falling sick of the smallpox +as soon as I came to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the +tale the good woman told me of her daughter having had an ague, I +afterward concluded she had been newly recovered of the smallpox. +Notwithstanding this, I went with my company, the next day, hiring a bark +to carry us over the lake; and indeed, sick as I was, the weather was so +serene and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that never +had travelers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed the whole length of the +lake, about thirty miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) +affording one of the most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps +covered with snow, though at a great distance, yet showing their aspiring +tops. Through this lake, the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as +not to mingle with its exceeding deep waters, which are very clear, and +breed the most celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of any in +Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet in length sold in the +market for a small price, and such we had in the lodging where we abode, +which was at the White Cross. All this while, I held up tolerably; and +the next morning having a letter for Signor John Diodati, the famous +Italian minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I +went to his house, and had a great deal of discourse with that learned +person. He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deal, +while sailing for Holland, that he had seen London, and was exceedingly +taken with the civilities he received. He so much approved of our +Church-government by Bishops, that he told me the French Protestants +would make no scruple to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a king +of the Reformed religion as we had. He exceedingly deplored the +difference now between his Majesty and the Parliament. After dinner, came +one Monsieur Saladine, with his little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, to +visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of the town; but, +being now no more able to hold up my head, I was constrained to keep my +chamber, imagining that my very eyes would have dropped out; and this +night I felt such a stinging about me, that I could not sleep. In the +morning, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor, he persuaded me to be +bled. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said, he had been +physician to Gustavus the Great, King of Sweden, when he passed this way +into Italy, under the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of +Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciæ, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on +his returning out of Italy. He afterward acknowledged that he should not +have bled me, had he suspected the smallpox, which broke out a day after. +He afterward purged me, and applied leeches, and God knows what this +would have produced, if the spots had not appeared, for he was thinking +of bleeding me again. They now kept me warm in bed for sixteen days, +tended by a vigilant Swiss matron, whose monstrous throat, when I +sometimes awakened out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the +pimples were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to pain, +but infinitely afflicted with heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, after +five weeks' keeping my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his +lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my physician, to excuse +his letting me bleed, told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would +have proved the plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded by any other +method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Monsieur +Saladine's, and in the afternoon went across the water on the side of the +lake, and took a lodging that stood exceedingly pleasant, about half a +mile from the city for the better airing; but I stayed only one night, +having no company there, save my pipe; so, the next day, I caused them to +row me about the lake as far as the great stone, which they call +NEPTUNE'S ROCK, on which they say sacrifice was anciently offered to him. +Thence, I landed at certain cherry gardens and pretty villas by the side +of the lake, and exceedingly pleasant. Returning, I visited their +conservatories of fish; in which were trouts of six and seven feet long, +AS THEY AFFIRMED. + +The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst dips into a cavern +underground, about six miles from it, and afterward rises again, and runs +its open course, like our Mole, or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The +next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, many +of that country, especially of Lucca, his native place, being inhabitants +of Geneva, and of the Reformed religion. + +The town lying between Germany, France, and Italy, those three tongues +are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. It is a strong, well-fortified +city, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, +but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloisters, being +all of wood), through which the people pass dry and in the shade, winter +and summer, exceedingly deform the fronts of the buildings. Here are +abundance of booksellers; but their books are of ill impressions; these, +with watches (of which store are made here), crystal, and excellent +screwed guns, are the staple commodities. All provisions are good and +cheap. + +The town-house is fairly built of stone; the portico has four black +marble columns; and, on a table of the same, under the city arms, a +demi-eagle and cross, between cross-keys, is a motto, "POST TENEBRAS +LUX," and this inscription: + + _Quum anno 1535 profligatâ Romanâ Anti-Christi Tyrannide, + abrogatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hìc + in suam puritatem, Ecclesiâ in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei + beneficio repositâ, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa + in suam libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; + Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuæ memoriæ causâ + fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum + gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit._ + +The territories about the town are not so large as many ordinary +gentlemen have about their country farms, for which cause they are in +continual watch, especially on the Savoy side; but, in case of any siege +the Swiss are at hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, +toward the street: + + D.O.M.S. + + _Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ + restitutâ, et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et + forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum + Primari Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum + venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo + adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti, + beneficii monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi_ + CC[~C~].I[~C~].XXXIV. + +In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were +removing earth in the fortifications. + +A little out of the town is a spacious field, which they call Campus +Martius; and well it may be so termed, with better reason, than that at +Rome at present (which is no more a field, but all built into streets), +for here on every Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise +people permit their youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, and in the +long and cross bows, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be +as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they yearly +elect him who has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the +king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears that weapon in his +hat in gold, with a crown over it made fast to the hat like a brooch. In +this field, is a long house wherein their arms and furniture are kept in +several places very neatly. To this joins a hall, where, at certain +times, they meet and feast; in the glass windows are the arms and names +of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field, is a very noble +Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a +tavern, and a trey-table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It is +also the usual place of public execution of those who suffer for any +capital crime, though committed in another country, by which law divers +fugitives have been put to death, who have fled hither to escape +punishment in their own country. Among other severe punishments here, +adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a game at mall, I +supped with Mr. Saladine. + +On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the French +mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat on. The Church Government is +severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set +it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of +that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, a most learned +young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of the University, +preached at St. Peter's, a spacious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a +cathedral and a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which +stands a continual sentinel; in another cannons are mounted. The church +is very decent within; nor have they at all defaced the painted windows, +which are full of pictures of saints; nor the stalls, which are all +carved with the history of our Blessed Savior. + +In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen exercise in Mars' +Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that +some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I +first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they +formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in +frames, and had great screws to bend them, doing execution at an +incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket, +rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine I +brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot, I found them go +into a long house, and cleanse their guns, before they charged again. + +On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without the works, where were +many rare tulips, anemones, and other choice flowers. The Rhone, running +athwart the town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, in +imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, and it has a +church of the same name. On two wooden bridges that cross the river are +several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers; +between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient +tower, said to have been built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other +bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial. + +Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile hanging in +chains; and against the wall of one of the chambers, seven judges were +painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but one hand; I +know not the story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well +furnished and kept. + +After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair structure; in the +lower part are the schools, which consist of nine classes; and a hall +above, where the students assemble; also a good library. They showed us a +very ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, and a +MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Professors their +lodgings. I also went to the Hospital, which is very commodious; but the +Bishop's Palace is now a prison. + +This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women, for, even at this +distance from the Alps, the gentlewomen have somewhat full throats; but +our Captain Wray (afterward Sir William, eldest son of that Sir +Christopher, who had both been in arms against his Majesty for the +Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's +daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be prevailed on to +think on his journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot. + +My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles of gold to my +host, and five to my honest doctor, who for six weeks' attendance and the +apothecary thought it so generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he +presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written with +his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much observed, and I bless God +passed the journey without inconvenience from sickness, but it was an +extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the +craggy ways. + +5th July, 1646. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it could not be +brought back against the stream of the Rhone. We were two days going to +Lyons, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near the +town down a very steep declivity of water for a full mile. From Lyons, we +proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at +Feurs. At Roanne we indulged ourselves with the best that all France +affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful, so as the +supper we had might have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask beds, and +were treated like emperors. The town is one of the neatest built in all +France, on the brink of the Loire; and here we agreed with an old fisher +to row us as far as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, +early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits' +College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it +nobly built. + +The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant +from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had +followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the +Governor's pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great +displeasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities. + +[Sidenote: ORLEANS] + +The next day we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of which I +reckon my share came to little less than twenty leagues. Sometimes, we +footed it through pleasant fields and meadows; sometimes, we shot at +fowls, and other birds; nothing came amiss: sometimes, we played at +cards, while others sung, or were composing verses; for we had the great +poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and some other ingenious persons. + +At Orleans we abode but one day; the next, leaving our mad Captain behind +us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that, after so many disasters and +accidents in a tedious peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and +here I resolved to rest myself before I went further. + +It was now October, and the only time that in my whole life that I spent +most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soon recovered +my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and +Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and such +exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in much reputation +among the sober Italians. + +28th January, 1647. I changed my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de +Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains; and thence, on the 12th of +February, to another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, +which cost me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a course of +Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure operating upon most of the +nobler processes. March 3d, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the +lute, though to small perfection. + +In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes; for which I was four times +let bleed. + +22d May, 1647. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes and plate, to the +value of three score pounds; but, through the diligence of Sir Richard +Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose +lady and family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly set +my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, obtaining of the +Judge, with no small difficulty, that the process against the thief +should not concern his life, being his first offense. + +10th June, 1647. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I went +to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his court, +to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his chaplains (since Dean of +Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury), that he would +accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on Thursday, 27th of June, +1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, between the hours of +eleven and twelve, some few select friends being present. And this being +Corpus Christi feast, was solemnly observed in this country; the streets +were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and strewed with flowers. + +10th September, 1647. Being called into England, to settle my affairs +after an absence of four years, I took leave of the Prince and Queen, +leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and +prudent mother. + +4th October, 1647. I sealed and declared my will, and that morning went +from Paris, taking my journey through Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. +Vallerie, where I stayed one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some +affairs, and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I +arrived on the 11th, and that night embarking in a packet boat, was by +one o'clock got safe to Dover; for which I heartily put up my thanks to +God who had conducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to me +through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I arrived at London the +next day at evening, being the 2d of October, new style. + +[Sidenote: WOTTON] + +5th October, 1647. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my +brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court where I had the honor to kiss +his Majesty's hand, and give him an account of several things I had in +charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not +long after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Sergeant Hatton's at Thames +Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to London. + +14th October, 1647. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my +house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my wife's uncle, who had charge of it +and the estate about it, during my father-in-law's residence in France. +On the 15th, I again occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple. + +9th November, 1647. My sister opened to me her marriage with Mr. +Glanville. + +14th January, 1647-48. From London I went to Wotton to see my young +nephew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst], to visit my brother Richard. + +5th February, 1648. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the cockpit, after there +had been none of these diversions for many years during the war. + +28th February, 1648. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy +(afterward Lord Downe), to Thistleworth, where we dined with Sir Clepesby +Crew, and afterward to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, and +rounds of plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, +who has some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian +hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water colors, by Breughel, +which I bought for him. + +26th April, 1648. There was a great uproar in London, that the rebel army +quartering at Whitehall, would plunder the City, on which there was +published a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. + +4th May, 1648. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agreement between his +Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men addressed the Parliament +for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's +guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South +Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000. + +30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being +at the head of them. Their first rendezvous was in Broome-field, next my +house at Sayes Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to +Colchester, where was that memorable siege. + +27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of +my brother George, for £3,300. + +1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, +to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. + +10th July, 1648. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers being +slain by the rebels near Kingston. + +16th August, 1648. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my +brother, Richard, who married the daughter and coheir of Esquire Minn, +lately deceased; by which he had a great estate both in land and money on +the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bridegroom were, +was overturned in coming home; but no harm was done. + +28th August, 1648. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the celebrated +follies of Bartholomew Fair. + +16th September, 1648. Came my lately married brother, Richard, and his +wife, to visit me, when I showed them Greenwich, and her Majesty's +Palace, now possessed by the rebels. + +28th September, 1648. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of Arundel, +and returned to Wotton. + +31st October, 1648. I went to see my manor of Preston Beckhelvyn, and the +Cliffhouse. + +29th November, 1648. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and Lady Gerrard, +christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn, +by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate +which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it-- + + IN MEMORIAM FACTI. + + ANNO CIC IX. XLIIX. CAL. DECEM. VIII. VIRGINUM CASTISS: XTIANORUM + INNOCENTIS: NEPT: SUAVIS: MARIÆ. JOHAN. EVELYNUS AVUNCULUS ET + SUSCEPTOR VASCULUM HOC CUM EPIGRAPHE L. M. Q. D. + AVE MARIA GRATIÂ SIS PLENA; DOMINUS TECUM. + +2d December, 1648. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott for £3,400 to one +Mr. Bridges. + +13th December, 1648. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and +endeavored to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty; but were surprised +by the rebel army; the members dispersed, and great confusion every where +in expectation of what would be next. + +17th December, 1648. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel, one +Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +18th December, 1648. I got privately into the council of the rebel army, +at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies. + +This was a most exceedingly wet year, neither frost nor snow all the +winter for more than six days in all. Cattle died every where of a +murrain. + +1st January, 1648-49. I had a lodging and some books at my +father-in-law's house, Sayes Court. + +2d January, 1649. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveler, Mr. +Henshaw, who had two rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective. + +17th January, 1649. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the +rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his Majesty; and saw +that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long after condemned him. + +19th January, 1649. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of +being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night on another vessel +then at anchor, shooting the bridge at three quarters' ebb, for which His +mercy God Almighty be praised. + +21st January, 1649. Was published my translation of Liberty and +Servitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened. + +22d January, 1649. I went through a course of chemistry, at Sayes Court. +Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. + +The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try, condemn, and +murder our excellent King on the 30th of this month, struck me with such +horror, that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be +present at that execrable wickedness; receiving the sad account of it +from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit me this +afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances. + +1st February, 1649. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord +Capell, etc., at their trial before the rebels' NEW COURT OF INJUSTICE. + +15th February, 1649. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich +merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare perspective of +Stenwyck; from thence, to other virtuosos. + +The painter, La Neve has an Andromeda, but I think it a copy after +Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in France. Webb, at the +Exchange, has some rare things in miniature, of Breughel's, also Putti, +in twelve squares, that were plundered from Sir James Palmer. + +At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten, I know not how, +out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old Petit, thought to be Titian's; he +had some good heads of Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an +excellent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr, with other +figures; for now they had plundered, sold, and dispersed a world of rare +paintings of the King's, and his loyal subjects. After all, Sir William +Ducy showed me some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of +Holbein's; Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole-length figure of Edward +VI., which were certainly his Majesty's; also a picture of Queen +Elizabeth; the Lady Isabella Thynne; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, +being a Susanna; and a Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry +VIII., of Holbein; and Francis I., rare indeed, but of whose hand I know +not. + +16th February, 1649. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de +Condé, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter +of consolation to her: and, on the 22d, having recommended Obadiah +Walker, a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel +with, Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court. + +25th February, 1649. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the +lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist. + +26th February, 1649. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn, my kinsman, +the great traveler, and one who believed himself a better architect than +really he was; witness the portico in the Garden at Wotton; yet the great +room at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but +over-built everything. + +27th February, 1649. Came out of France my wife's uncle (Paris still +besieged), being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates: I lost, among +other goods, my wife's picture, painted by Monsieur Bourdon. + +5th March, 1649. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace Yard. + +18th March, 1649. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister, preached +in my parlor, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in +the parish churches, on which the Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped. + +21st March, 1649. I received letters from Paris from my wife, and from +Sir Richard [Browne], with whom I kept up a political correspondence, +with no small danger of being discovered. + +25th March, 1649. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) +in St. Peter's, at Paul's Wharf, London; and, in the morning, the +Archbishop of Armagh, that pious person and learned man, Usher, in +Lincoln's-Inn Chapel. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +2d April, 1649. To London, and inventoried my movables that had hitherto +been dispersed for fear of plundering: wrote into France, touching my +sudden resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an +excellent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4, v. 26-27. + +My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins, the great +chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries, which I +purchased and caused to be drawn out of several human bodies at Padua. + +11th April, 1649. Received news out of France that peace was concluded; +dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster; and on the 13th I saw a +private dissection at Moulins's house. + +17th April, 1649. I fell dangerously ill of my head; was blistered and +let bleed behind the ears and forehead: on the 23d, began to have ease by +using the fumes of camomile on embers applied to my ears, after all the +physicians had done their best. + +29th April, 1649. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet in +length, and much higher than I could reach. + +12th May, 1649. I purchased the manor of Warley Magna, in Essex: in the +afternoon went to see Gildron's collections of paintings, where I found +Mr. Endymion Porter, of his late Majesty's bedchamber. + +17th May, 1649. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers ladies, +to see the schools, or colleges, of the young gentlewomen. + +19th May, 1649. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had some good +paintings, especially a monk at his beads. + +30th May, 1649. Unkingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's statues +thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the Exchange. + +7th June, 1649. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton[38] (brother to Sir Ralph, +Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been Ambassador extraordinary +in Spain, sojourned some time with my father-in-law at Paris, a most +excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greek lady, whom I knew in +Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentleman. Also, the +Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave of them and other friends now +ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle between some rebel +soldiers and gentlemen about the Temple. + + [Footnote 38: Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord + Hopton (so well known for his services to Charles in the course of + the Civil War).] + +June 10th, 1649. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's-Inn, from +Romans 5, verse 13. I received the blessed Sacrament, preparatory to my +journey. + +13th June, 1649. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen, newly +freed from sentence of death among the lords that suffered. With him was +one Carew, who played incomparably on the Welsh harp; afterward I treated +divers ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. + +This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain at the Hague, the +villain who managed the trial against his sacred Majesty. + +17th June, 1649. I got a pass from the rebel Bradshaw, then in great +power. + +20th June, 1649. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames, to +take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I thought to have +them engraved. + +2d July, 1649. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John +Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts., when I took leave of +both Sir Johns and their ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John +of Wilts' daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother of the +present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes Court this night. + +4th July, 1649. Visited Lady Hatton, her lord sojourning at Paris with my +father-in-law. + +9th July, 1649. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend, Mr. Eaton, +afterward a judge, who corresponded with me in France. + +11th July, 1649. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine historian +and poet; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends to take leave of +me. + +[Sidenote: GRAVESEND] + +12th July, 1649. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars for +Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and sister, Glanville, who +there supped with me and returned; whence I took post immediately to +Dover, where I arrived by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that +night, went on board a barque guarded by a pinnace of eight guns; this +being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy, having +several times before been pillaged. We had a good passage, though chased +for some hours by a pirate, but he dared not attack our frigate, and we +then chased him till he got under the protection of the castle at Calais. +It was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over +with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incomparable writer of several +hands, whom I afterward preferred in the Prerogative Office, at the +return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of +Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left +England _incognito_. At the entrance of the town, the Lieutenant +Governor, being on his horse with the guards, let us pass courteously. I +visited Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gentleman, and walked in the +church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very +fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The citadel seems to +be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laid under water by +sluices for many miles. + +16th July, 1649. We departed from Paris, in company with that very +pleasant lady, Lady Catherine Scott, and others. In all this journey we +were greatly apprehensive of parties, which caused us to alight often out +of our coach and walk separately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, +in all suspected places. + +[Sidenote: PARIS] + +1st August, 1649. At three in the afternoon we came to St. Denis, saw the +rarities of the church and treasury; and so to Paris that evening. + +The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord High Treasurer +Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor, Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary +of State, Sir George Carteret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having +now been absent from my wife above a year and a half. + +18th August, 1649. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's hand; in +the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went Mrs. Barlow, the King's +mistress[39] and mother to the Duke of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, +bold, but insipid creature. + + [Footnote 39: The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of + Richard Walters, Esq., of Haverfordwest. She had two children by the + King; James, subsequently so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and + Mary, whose lot was obscure in comparison with that of her brother, + but of course infinitely happier. She married a Mr. William + Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William Fanshawe, Esq.] + +19th August, 1649. I went to salute the French King and the Queen +Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's coaches with my +Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since +Lord Croftes. + +7th September, 1649. Went with my wife and dear Cousin to St. Germains, +and kissed the Queen-Mother's hand; dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord +Hatton. Divers of the great men of France came to see the King. The next +day, came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to see the +President Maison's palace, built castle-wise, of a milk-white fine +freestone; the house not vast, but well contrived, especially the +staircase, and the ornaments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry +moat, the offices under ground, the gardens very excellent with +extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble prospect toward the +forest, and on the Seine toward Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows, +walks, river, forest, corn-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything +in Italy to exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has pulled +down a whole village to make room for his pleasure about it. + +12th September, 1649. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majesty's +chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, +preached. + +13th September, 1649. The King invited the Prince of Condé to supper at +St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in the tennis court, +where I saw a famous match between Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, +and so returned to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a +dignity I often declined. + +1st October, 1649. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterward Sir Samuel), to +see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel; and, after dinner, to talk with +the poor ignorant and superstitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to +Paris. + +2d October, 1649. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir William) and +the Duke's secretary, etc., to visit me. + +5th October, 1649. Dined with Sir George Ratcliffe, the great favorite of +the late Earl of Stratford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. + +7th October, 1649. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton, +governess to Madame. + +15th October, 1649. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the rebels, and +all put to the sword, which made us very sad, forerunning the loss of all +Ireland. + +21st October, 1649. I went to hear Dr. d'Avinson's lecture in the +physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect of that +excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus. + +30th October, 1649. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober +English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was +interred in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our church, which +was said before in our chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried +the great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like a +fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I returned to Paris with +Sir Philip Musgrave, and Sir Marmaduke Langdale, since Lord +Langdale.--Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal autumn. + +5th November, 1649. I received divers letters out of England, requiring +me to come over about settling some of my concerns. + +7th November, 1649. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) +preached in our chapel on Matthew 4, verse 3. + +18th November, 1649. I went with my father-in-law to see his audience at +the French Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio, he was introduced by the +master of ceremonies, and, after delivery of his credentials, as from our +King, since his father's murder, he was most graciously received by the +King of France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience. This was +in the Palais Cardinal. + +After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Queen Regent I went to +see the house built by the late great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most +observable thing is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most +illustrious persons and single actions in France, with innumerable +emblems between every table. In the middle of the gallery, is a neat +chapel, rarely paved in work and devices of several sorts of marble, +besides the altar-piece and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, +the other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apartments are +rarely gilded and carved, with some good modern paintings. In the +presence hang three huge branches of crystal. In the French King's +bedchamber, is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a +chamber like a movable box, with a rich embroidered bed. The fabric of +the palace is not magnificent, being but of two stories; but the garden +is so spacious as to contain a noble basin and fountain continually +playing, and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract it. +So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a bull-baiting, and +returned home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paul, the Prince +Elector's agent. + +19th November, 1649. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an +English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse about religion. + +28th December, 1649. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed St. Stephen's +church; the building, though Gothic, is full of carving; within it is +beautiful, especially the choir and winding stairs. The glass is well +painted, and the tapestry hung up this day about the choir, representing +the conversion of Constantine, was exceedingly rich. + +I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his instruction about +some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his book. + +I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn thanks to +Almighty God.[40] + + [Footnote 40: This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every + year, but it will not always be necessary here to insert it.] + +29th December, 1649. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir George +Radcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor that they had provided +no gossips, so as several of us drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of +Peterborough (Dr. Cousin) officiating: we named it Andrew, being on the +eve of that Apostle's day. + +1st January, 1649-50. I began this Jubilee with the public office in our +chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterward +Lord Keeper. + +18th January, 1650. This night was the Prince of Condé and his brother +carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. + +6th February, 1650. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro, one of the +Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of great name for his +knowledge in that art, to visit my wife, and sung before divers persons +of quality in my chamber. + +1st March, 1650. I went to see the masquerados, which was very fantastic; +but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. + +13th March, 1650. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy, where +divers of the French and English noblesse, especially my Lord of Ossory, +and Richard, sons to the Marquis of Ormond (afterward Duke), did their +exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spectators +and great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. + +25th April, 1650. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace so called, +built by Francis I. It is observable only for its open manner of +architecture, being much of terraces and galleries one over another to +the very roof; and for the materials, which are mostly of earth painted +like porcelain, or China-ware, whose colors appear very fresh, but is +very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this pottery, +chimney-pieces, and columns both within and without. Under the chapel is +a chimney in the midst of a room parted from the _Salle des Gardes_. The +house is fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista toward +the Bois de Boulogne and river. + +30th April, 1650. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor, +Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought some prints; +and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape graver. + +3d May, 1650. At the hospital of La Charité I saw the operation of +cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years old underwent the +operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing great joy when +he saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty +God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this deplorable +infirmity. + +7th May, 1650. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my wife, +together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory and his brother, to +Vamber, a place near the city famous for butter; when, coming homeward, +being on foot, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden, +who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil language; on which our +young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bade him ask pardon, +which he did with much submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone +far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming with guns, +swords, staves, and forks, and who followed, flinging stones; on which, +we turned, and were forced to engage, and with our swords, stones, and +the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for +near a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where we were +besieged, and at length forced to submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton, +with some others, were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship +was confined under three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's +master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one +of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parlement, and a Canon of Nôtre +Dame. Several of us were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, +caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. +Immediately afterward, came Monsieur St. Germain himself, in great wrath, +on hearing that his housekeeper was assaulted; but when he saw the King's +officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident and +understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the +fellow's pardon, and desiring the ladies to accept their submission and a +supper at his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, +guarded by Prince Griffith (a Welsh hero going under that name, and well +known in England for his extravagancies), together with the scholars of +two academies, who came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and +would fain have alarmed the town we received the affront from: which, +with much ado, we prevented. + +12th May, 1650. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court of France of +the affront we had received, the President was ordered to ask pardon of +Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make submission, +and be dismissed. There came along with him the President de Thou, son of +the great Thuanus [the historian], and so all was composed. But I have +often heard that gallant gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that +in all the conflicts he was ever in at sea or on land (in the most +desperate of both which he had often been), he believed he was never in +so much danger as when these people rose against us. He used to call it +the _bataile de Vambre_, and remember it with a great deal of mirth as an +adventure, _en cavalier_. + +24th May, 1650. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at +the ring where were many brave horses, gallants, and ladies, my Lord +Stanhope entertaining us with a collation. + +12th June, 1650. Being Trinity Sunday, the Dean of Peterborough preached; +after which there was an ordination of two divines, Durell and Brevent +(the one was afterward Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very +learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great gravity, +after a pious and learned exhortation declaring the weight and dignity of +their function, especially now in a time of the poor Church of England's +affliction. He magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object, +viz, the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God; producing many +human instances of the transitoriness and vanity of all other dignity; +that of all the triumphs the Roman conquerors made, none was comparable +to that of our Blessed Savior's, when he led captivity captive, and gave +gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by which his faithful and +painful ministers triumphed over Satan as often as they reduced a sinner +from the error of his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They +were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the altar, the +Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so were made both Deacons and +Priests at the same time, in regard to the necessity of the times, there +being so few Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a +failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the Communion. This +was all performed in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, at Paris. + +13th June, 1650. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was +afterward made a knight by the French King for his art. He engraved my +picture in copper. At a future time he presented me with my own picture, +done all with his pen; an extraordinary curiosity. + +21st June, 1650. I went to see the Samaritan, or pump, at the end of the +Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising no great matter, is, +besides the machine, furnished with innumerable rarities both of art and +nature; especially the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, +growing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of +crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals and marcasites, +with two great conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crowns at +Amsterdam. He showed us many landscapes and prospects, very rarely +painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon; divers antiquities +and relievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside of the amphitheater +of Titus, incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clere himself; two boys and +three skeletons, molded by Fiamingo; a book of statues, with the pen +made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which one may discover many +errors in the _taille-douce_ of Perrier, who has added divers conceits of +his own that are not in the originals. He has likewise an infinite +collection of _taille-douces_, richly bound in morocco. + +He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have entertained a prince, +with pictures of the greatest masters, especially a Venus of Perino del +Vaga; the Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of +porcelain, and many designed by Raphael; some paintings of Poussin, and +Fioravanti; antiques in brass; the looking-glass and stands rarely +carved. In a word, all was great, choice, and magnificent, and not to be +passed by as I had often done, without the least suspicion that there +were such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future visit, he +showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn through the battlements of +the arches of Pont Neuf into a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so +that the coaches and horses thundered over our heads. + +[Sidenote: CALAIS] + +27th June, 1650. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and other +friends, took horse for England, paying the messenger eight pistoles for +me and my servant to Calais, setting out with seventeen in company +well-armed, some Portuguese, Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains +and officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next day, to Beauvais, +and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached Abbeville; next, +dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company on foot (being now +within the inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day's +journey from St. Omers and the frontiers), which we drew very near to, +ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were ordered and +led by a captain of our train; but, as we were on the speed, they called +out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among +them armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. The next day, +we marched in good order, the passage being now exceeding dangerous, and +got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it +made the skin peel off. + +I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about three in the +afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hearing there was a pirate then +also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair +S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would +have us to the mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we +were dismissed. + +Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that +afternoon our trunks were visited. + +The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my +Lady Catherine Scott, whom that very day twelve months before I met at +sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far +off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at +Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave +of my lady about four the next morning. + +5th July, 1650. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one +Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great +chemist. + +Sunday 7th July, 1650. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was +doing among the Rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went +thither, and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; +thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad. + +17th July, 1650. I went to London to obtain a pass,[41] intending but a +short stay in England. + + [Footnote 41: A copy of it is subjoined. "These are to will and + require you to permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, + Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and other necessaries, + into any port of France without any your lets or molestations, of + which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your + sufficient warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this + 25th of June, 1650. + + "Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, + appointed by authority of Parliament, + JO. BRADSHAWE, President. + + "To all Customers, Comptrollers and Searchers, and all other + officers of the Ports, or Customs." + + Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing; + "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] + M[emory."] Its endorsement, also in his writing, is, "The Pass from + the Council of State, 1650."] + +25th July, 1650. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and +my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who +took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the state, as then +called. + +4th August, 1650. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, +wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. + +6th August, 1650. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an +excellent copy of Titian. + +12th August, 1650. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so +that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and +having only an antiquated pass, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear +of them though not without extraordinary hazard, having before +counterfeited one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of +the rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, +money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal +of Bradshawe himself, where I had not so much as my trunk opened. + +[Sidenote: CALAIS] + +13th August, 1650. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind +not favorable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about one +o'clock; about five in the morning, we had a long boat to carry us to +land, though at a good distance; this we willingly entered, because two +vessels were chasing us; but, being now almost at the harbor's mouth, +through inadvertency there broke in upon us two such heavy seas, as had +almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up in water. Our steersman, +it seems, apprehensive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea +and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into the +pier, and so, God be thanked! we got to Calais, though wet. + +Here I waited for company, the passage toward Paris being still infested +with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. + +16th August, 1650. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1,400 +horse and foot (among them was a captain whom I knew), being come to +town, I took horses for myself and servant, and marched under their +protection to Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these +tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, +cattle, and whatever came in their way; but they had such ill pay, that +they were ready themselves to starve. + +As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the guards doubled, +and everybody running with their movables to Paris, on an alarm that the +enemy was within five leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this +part of France at this time. + +[Sidenote: PARIS] + +The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months only. + +1st September, 1650. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and +indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives. + +Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife +had baptized. + +15th October, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterward Lord Treasurer) and +Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent on a treat; +they shot so exact that it was a drawn match. + +1st November, 1650. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going on his journey +toward Italy; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's +Household, the Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and +Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's maids of honor. + +6th November, 1650. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set +upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave +the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir +Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to +my friends. + +16th November, 1650. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's +Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of +twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of +what was to be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being +patroness of Musicians. News arrived of the death of the Princess of +Orange of the smallpox. + +14th December, 1650. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was +an imposter that had liked to have imposed upon us a pretended secret of +multiplying gold; it is certain he had lived some time in Paris in +extraordinary splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheat. + +22d December, 1650. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me. + +31st December, 1650. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the +past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, +near £600 sterling. + +1st January, 1650-51. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden +and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had +long been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those +countries, the Arabs especially. + +27th January, 1651. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my +grand-mother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me during my +childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety. + +29th January, 1651. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing the +mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come +newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel. + +9th February, 1651. Cardinal Mazarin was proscribed by Arrêt du +Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris. + +23d February, 1651. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a +fair cloister painted with the lives of hermits; a glorious altar now +erecting in the chapel; the garden on the rock with divers descents, with +a fine vineyard, and a delicate prospect toward the city. + +24th February, 1651. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous beast, +much like the camel, but larger. There was also dancing on the rope; but, +above all, surprising to those who were ignorant of the address, was the +water-spouter, who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his +mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. For a piece +of money he discovered the secret to me. I waited on Friar Nicholas at +the convent at Chaillot, who, being an excellent chemist, showed me his +laboratory, and rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both +physician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the names of his +drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or +simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some [Transcriber's +note: special symbol for the planet Mercury] of antimony. He had cured +Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a +monumental altar that was to cost £1,500. + +11th March, 1651. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, where a malefactor +was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to +confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first +bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to +an iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor, and +then his feet with another cable, fastened about five feet further than +his utmost length to another ring on the floor of the room. Thus +suspended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the +rope which bound his feet, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed +the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an +extraordinary manner, he having only a pair of linen drawers on his naked +body. Then, they questioned him of a robbery (the lieutenant being +present and a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher +horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this +agony, confessing nothing, the executioner with a horn (just such as they +drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the +quantity of two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which so +prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and affrighted any one to +see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then +let him down, and carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, +being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I know +not; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly averred him to be the +man, and the fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be +racked, betrayed some guilt; the lieutenant was also of that opinion, and +told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young man) he would +conquer the torture; and so it seems they could not hang him, but did use +in such cases, where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to +the galleys, which is as bad as death. + +There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spectacle was so +uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It +represented yet to me the intolerable sufferings which our Blessed Savior +must needs undergo, when his body was hanging with all its weight upon +the nails on the cross. + +20th March, 1651. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the Marquis +de Crevecoeur's, where were divers princes, dukes, and great persons; +but what appeared to me very mean was, that it began with a puppet-play. + +6th May, 1651. I attended the ambassador to a masque at Court, where the +French King in person danced five entries, but being engaged in +discourse, and better entertained with one of the Queen-Regent's +secretaries, I soon left the entertainment. + +11th May, 1651. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the +Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera. The first scene +represented a chariot of singers composed of the rarest voices that could +be procured, representing Cornaro[42] and Temperance; this was overthrown +by Bacchus and his revelers; the rest consisted of several entries and +pageants of excess, by all the elements. A masque representing fire was +admirable; then came a Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a +heaven, whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the great +persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, +with all the grandees of the Court, the King performing to the admiration +of all. The music was twenty-nine violins, vested _à l'antique_, but the +habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious. + + [Footnote 42: The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.] + +23d May, 1651. I went to take leave of the ambassadors for Spain, which +were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edward Hyde; and, as I +returned, I visited Mr. Morine's garden, and his other rarities, +especially corals, minerals, stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of +the Red Sea, the body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and +the two legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of shells, at +least 1,000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of great price; and had a +very curious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was +compiling a natural history. He had also the pictures of his choice +flowers and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of +tulips only. He had _taille-douces_ out of number; the head of the +rhinoceros bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterfly resembling +a perfect bird. + +25th May, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned priest and +famous philosopher,[43] author of the book "De Mundo," with whose worthy +brother I was well acquainted at Rome. I was shown a cabinet of +Maroquin, or Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and +gilding, that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. + + [Footnote 43: A native of Essex, who was born in 1582, educated + abroad, and, his family being Catholic, became a priest of that + church, the sub-rector of the college at Douay. He advocated the + Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him into an extensive + correspondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of which he + Latinized his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died in + 1676.] + +The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of Pentecost, +perstringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgin. + +4th June, 1651. Trinity Sunday, I was absent from church in the afternoon +on a charitable affair for the Abbess of Bourcharvant, who but for me had +been abused by that chemist, Du Menie. Returning, I stepped into the +Grand Jesuits, who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of +solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, coming out +of Italy and from Padua, came to see me, on his return to England. + +5th June, 1651. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, and some other noble +persons, to hear Madam Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and +Italian excellently well, but her voice was not strong. + +7th June, 1651. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the +streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full of images, and +other rich furniture, especially that before the Court, of a rare design +and architecture. There were abundance of excellent pictures and great +vases of silver. + +13th June, 1651. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, +which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, porcelain, medals, +statues, relievos, paintings, _taille-douces_, and antiquities, might +compare with the Italian virtuosos. + +21st June, 1651. I became acquainted with Sieur William Curtius, a very +learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. He had been a scholar to +Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was well advanced in years, and now +Resident for his Majesty at Frankfort. + +2d July, 1651. Came to see me the Earl of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his +brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer's +sons, and Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, a learned and pious man, where +we entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the affairs of +England, and the lamentable condition of our Church. The Lord Gerrard +also called to see my collection of sieges and battles. + +21st July, 1651. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapel, Dr. +Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, preaching. + +2d August, 1651. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were abundance of +ladies and others bathing in the river; the ladies had their tents spread +on the water for privacy. + +29th August, 1651. Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of our +poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr. Waller, being at St. +Germains, desired me to send him a coach from Paris, to bring my wife's +goddaughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. + +6th September, 1651. I went with my wife to St. Germains, to condole with +Mr. Waller's loss. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent +and pious person the Dean of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives +(half-brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with his +wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very evening before he +was to have been put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two stories +high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter, and at +night; so as by swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though +he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went about in women's +habit, and then in a small-coal-man's, traveling 200 miles on foot, +embarked for Scotland with some men he had raised, who coming on shore +were all surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose's score; he +not knowing anything of their barbarous murder of that hero. This he told +us was his fifth escape, and none less miraculous; with this note, that +the charging through 1,000 men armed, or whatever danger could befall a +man, he believed could not more confound and distract a man's thoughts +than the execution of a premeditated escape, the passions of hope and +fear being so strong. This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not +a little given to romance, when he spoke of himself. I returned to Paris +the same evening. + +7th September, 1651. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher +of Malmesbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window we saw +the whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French Monarch, +Louis XIV., passing to Parliament, when first he took the kingly +government on him, now being in his 14th year, out of his minority and +the Queen Regent's pupilage. First came the captain of the King's Aids, +at the head of 50, richly liveried; next, the Queen-Mother's Light Horse, +100, the lieutenant being all over covered with embroidery and ribbons, +having before him four trumpets habited in black velvet, full of lace, +and casques of the same. Then, the King's Light Horse, 200, richly +habited, with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before +whom rode the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with +pearl. Next went the grand Prévôt's company on foot, with the Prévôt on +horseback; after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two +gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-colored satin, after their country +fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in his cap a _pennach_ of heron, +with a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss boys, with +halberds. Then, came the _Aide des Cérémonies_; next, the grandees of +court, governors of places and lieutenants-general of provinces, +magnificently habited and mounted; among whom I must not forget the +Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, +because it is said he had never been an Academist, and yet governed a +very unruly horse, and besides his rich suit his Malta Cross was esteemed +at 10,000 crowns. These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, +covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six +trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as many heralds in blue velvet +_semée_ with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on +their heads; behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; +then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding splendid; +behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, alone, carrying the King's +sword in a scarf, which he held up in a blue sheath studded with +fleurs-de-lis; his horse had for reins two scarfs of black taffeta. + +Then came abundance of footmen and pages of the King, new-liveried with +white and red feathers; next, the _garde du corps_ and other officers; +and lastly, appeared the King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a +housing _semee_, with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and +fleurs-de-lis; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was in a suit so +covered with rich embroidery, that one could perceive nothing of the +stuff under it; he went almost the whole way with his hat in hand, +saluting the ladies and acclamators, who had filled the windows with +their beauty, and the air with _Vive le Roi_. He seemed a prince of a +grave yet sweet countenance. After the King, followed divers great +persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also his esquires; masters of +horse, on foot; then the company of _Exempts des Gardes_, and six guards +of Scotch. Between their files were divers princes of the blood, dukes, +and lords; after all these, the Queen's guard of Swiss, pages, and +footmen; then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich coach, with Monsieur +the King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and some other lords and ladies +of honor. About the coach, marched her _Exempts des Gardes_: then the +company of the King's _Gens d'armes_, well mounted, 150, with four +trumpets, and as many of the Queen's; lastly, an innumerable company of +coaches full of ladies and gallants. In this equipage, passed the monarch +to the Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government. + +15th September, 1651. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-in-law, +to the French Court, when he had a favorable audience of the French King, +and the Queen, his mother; congratulating the one on his coming to the +exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy +administration during her late regency, desiring both to preserve the +same amity for his master, our King, as they had hitherto done, which +they both promised, with many civil expressions and words of course upon +such occasions. We were accompanied both going and returning by the +Introductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Ceremonies. I also saw the audience +of Morosini, the Ambassador of Venice, and divers other Ministers of +State from German Princes, Savoy, etc. Afterward I took a walk in the +King's gardens, where I observed that the mall goes the whole square +there of next the wall, and bends with an angle so made as to glance the +wall; the angle is of stone. There is a basin at the end of the garden +fed by a noble fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three +boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In another part is a +complete fort, made with bastions, graft, half-moons, ravelins, and +furnished with great guns cast on purpose to instruct the King in +fortification. + +22d September, 1651. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at Worcester, +which exceedingly mortified our expectations. + +28th September, 1651. I was shown a collection of books and prints made +for the Duke of York. + +1st October, 1651. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preached on Job +xiii., verse 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and +extremities, and for establishing and comforting some ladies of great +quality, who were then to be discharged from our Queen-Mother's service +unless they would go over to the Romish Mass. + +The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of +publishing those Offices, which among the Puritans were wont to be called +COSIN'S COZENING DEVOTIONS, by way of derision. At the first coming of +the Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often upbraiding +our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any hours of +prayer, or breveries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have much spare +time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies, +scandalized it seems at this, moved the matter to the King; whereupon his +Majesty presently called Bishop White to him and asked his thoughts of +it, and whether there might not be found some forms of prayer proper on +such occasions, collected out of some already approved forms, that so the +court ladies and others (who spent much time in trifling) might at least +appear as devout, and be so too, as the new-come-over French ladies, who +took occasion to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On which, the +Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done easily, and was very +necessary; whereupon the King commanded him to employ some person of the +clergy to compile such a Work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, +the King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in his name to set about it +immediately. This the Dean told me he did; and three months after, +bringing the book to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to read +it over, and make his report; this was so well liked, that (contrary to +former custom of doing it by a chaplain) he would needs give it an +_imprimatur_ under his own hand. Upon this there were at first only 200 +copies printed; nor, said he, was there anything in the whole book of my +own composure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those +necessary prefaces, etc., out of the Fathers, touching the times and +seasons of prayer; all the rest being entirely translated and collected +out of an OFFICE published by authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, +and our own Liturgy. This I rather mention to justify that industrious +and pious Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if he had done it +of his own head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, +and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirmed +many to our Church. + +29th October, 1651. Came news and letters to the Queen and Sir Richard +Browne (who was the first that had intelligence of it) of his Majesty's +miraculous escape after the fight at Worcester; which exceedingly +rejoiced us. + +7th November, 1651. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much +discourse on chemical matters. I showed him a particular way of +extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave me a certain powder with which he +affirmed that he had fixed [Transcriber's note: special symbol for the +planet Mercury] (mercury) before the late King. He advised me to try and +digest a little better, and gave me a water which he said was only rain +water of the autumnal equinox, exceedingly rectified, very volatile; it +had a taste of a strong vitriolic, and smelt like _aqua fortis_. He +intended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold; but the truth is, Sir +Kenelm was an arrant mountebank. Came news of the gallant Earl of Derby's +execution by the rebels. + +14th November, 1651. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii., verses 20, +21, 22, upon Jacob's vow, which he appositely applied, it being the first +Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after his escape. I went, in the +afternoon, to visit the Earl of Norwich; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's. + +16th November, 1651. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about two +days; when, going up to his lodging, I found him dead; which affected me +much, as besides his particular affection and love to me, he was of +incomparable parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very +great loss to the whole church. He was buried the next day with all our +church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying the corpse. + +17th November, 1651. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. Gardner, +maid of honor, lately married to that odd person, Sir Henry Wood: but +riches do many things. + +To see Monsieur Febure's course of chemistry, where I found Sir Kenelm +Digby, and divers curious persons of learning and quality. It was his +first opening the course and preliminaries, in order to operations. + +1st December, 1651. I now resolved to return to England. + +3d December, 1651. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some of +his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold, which, being in +his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by receiving a musket bullet on +them, which deadened its violence, so that it went no further; but made +such a stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one another, +battering and bending several of them; the bullet itself was flatted, and +retained on it the color of the gold. He assured us that of a hundred of +them, which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without +some blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Neapolitan +Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses into France, contrary to +the order of the Viceroy, by assistance of some banditti, was the +occasion of a difference between those great men, and consequently of the +late civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the Prince +standing on his defense at his own castle. He told me that the second +time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their +number, and might easily have beaten them; but was betrayed, as were all +other his designs and counsels, by some, even of his bedchamber, meaning +M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters from time to time when his +Majesty was asleep. + +11th December, 1651. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker, of University +College, with his two pupils, the sons of my worthy friend, Henry +Hyldiard, Esq., whom I had recommended to his care. + +21st December, 1651. Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane,[44] the lady who +conveyed the King to the seaside at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John +Cosin, son of the Dean, debauched by the priests, wrote a letter to me +to mediate for him with his father. I prepared for my last journey, being +now resolved to leave France altogether. + + [Footnote 44: Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army + of Charles II. dispersed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted + the King in effecting his escape after that battle, his Majesty + traveling with her disguised as her serving man, William Jackson.] + +25th December, 1651. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first by +themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the long towel all along +the altar. + +26th December, 1651. Came news of the death of that rebel, Ireton. + +31st December, 1651. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated the +Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative of my journey, being +now resolved to leave France altogether, and to return God Almighty +thanks for His gracious protection of me this past year. + +2d January, 1651-52. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, +which exceedingly affected me. + +I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enameling. He +wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a large size, even to the life, +so that nothing could be better molded. He told us stories of a Genoese +jeweler, who had the great ARCANUM, and had made projection before him +several times. He met him at Cyprus traveling into Egypt; in his return +from whence, he died at sea, and the secret with him, that else he had +promised to have left it to him; that all his effects were seized on, and +dissipated by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He also +affirmed, that being in a goldsmith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of very +low stature came in, and desired the goldsmith to melt him a pound of +lead; which done, he unscrewed the pommel of his sword, and taking out of +a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, +poured an ingot out, which when cold he took up, saying, "Sir, you will +be paid for your lead in the crucible," and so went out immediately. When +he was gone the goldsmith found four ounces of good gold in it; but could +never set eye again on the little man, though he sought all the city for +him. Antonio asserted this with great obtestation; nor know I what to +think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell +strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a great rover, and +spoke ten different languages. + +13th January, 1652. I took leave of Mr. Waller, who, having been +proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission to return, was +going to England. + +29th January, 1652. Abundance of my French and English friends and some +Germans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais, in +an exceedingly hard frost which had continued for some time. We got that +night to Beaumont; 30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep +with snow, and it was exceedingly cold; dined at Pois; lay at Pernèe, a +miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly unfurnished, but +in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, which they told me +they hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garrisons near +them continually plundering what they had. They were often infested with +wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw more miserable creatures. + +1st February, 1652. I dined at Abbeville; 2d, dined at Montreuil, lay at +Boulogne; 3d, came to Calais, by eleven in the morning; I thought to have +embarked in the evening, but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, +I dared not trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday following, +when two or three lusty vessels were to depart. + +I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, sometime before made +to resign his Fellowship in King's College, Cambridge, because he would +not take the Covenant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came +miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some relation he had +to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and clad and provided +for him, till he should find some better condition; and he was worthy of +it. There came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir +Timothy Tyrell, of Shotover (near Oxford). + +At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met with Mr. Heath, Sir +Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and divers of our banished friends, of whom +understanding that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in +the town, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by pirates at sea the +year before (my wife having sent it for me in England), as my Lord of +Norwich had informed me at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly +told me that he had such a picture in his own bedchamber among other +ladies, and how he came by it; seeming well pleased that it was his +fortune to preserve it for me, and he generously promised to send it to +any friend I had at Dover; I mentioned a French merchant there and so +took my leave. + +6th February, 1652. I embarked early in the packet boat, but put my goods +in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got not to Dover till eight +at night. I took horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day, to +Gravesend, took a pair of oars, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed +three days to refresh, and look after my packet and goods, sent by a +stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard Fanshawe, and divers +other friends. + +6th March, 1652. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch-rebel, Ireton, +carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westminster, accompanied with +divers regiments of soldiers, horse and foot; then marched the mourners, +General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-men, officers, +and forty poor men in gowns, three led horses in housings of black cloth, +two led in black velvet, and his charging horse, all covered over with +embroidery and gold, on crimson velvet; then the guidons, ensigns, four +heralds, carrying the arms of the State (as they called it), namely, the +red cross and Ireland, with the casque, wreath, sword, spurs, etc.; next, +a chariot canopied of black velvet, and six horses, in which was the +corpse; the pall held up by the mourners on foot; the mace and sword, +with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the plague), +carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a grave pace, drums covered with +cloth, soldiers reversing their arms, they proceeded through the streets +in a very solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel, and had been very +bloody to the King's party, witness his severity at Colchester, when in +cold blood he put to death those gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and +Sir George Lisle. My cousin, R. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and informed +me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his +brother, my Lord Cherbury's book, "_De Veritate_." + +[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] + +9th March, 1652. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my +settlement, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavor a +settled life, either in this or some other place, there being now so +little appearance of any change for the better, all being entirely in +the rebels' hands; and this particular habitation and the estate +contiguous to it (belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his +Majesty's service) very much suffering for want of some friend to rescue +it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve our interest, and +take some care of my other concerns, by the advice and endeavor of my +friends I was advised to reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. +This I was besides authorized by his Majesty to do, and encouraged with a +promise that what was in lease from the Crown, if ever it pleased God to +restore him, he would secure to us in fee farm. I had also addresses and +cyphers, to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad: upon all +which inducements, I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, +having now run about the world, most part out of my own country, near ten +years. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife, whom +as yet I had left at Paris. + +14th March, 1652. I went to Lewisham, where I heard an honest sermon on +1 Cor. ii. 5-7, being the first Sunday I had been at church since my +return, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of +England in a parish pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents +and Fanatics. + +15th March, 1652. I saw the "Diamond" and "Ruby" launched in the Dock at +Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each; Cromwell and his +grandees present, with great acclamations. + +18th March, 1652. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a sequestered +person, came to visit me. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +19th March, 1652. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London, where we had +a great supper; all the vessels, which were innumerable, were of +porcelain, she having the most ample and richest collection of that +curiosity in England. + +22d March, 1652. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to give him +what directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to +put into some form; but for which he was to remove a mountain overgrown +with huge trees and thicket, with a moat within ten yards of the house. +This my brother immediately attempted, and that without great cost, for +more than a hundred yards south, by digging down the mountain, and +flinging it into a rapid stream; it not only carried away the sand, etc., +but filled up the moat, and leveled that noble area, where now the garden +and fountain is. The first occasion of my brother making this alteration +was my building the little retiring place between the great wood eastward +next the meadow, where, some time after my father's death, I made a +triangular pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock after my coming +out of Flanders. + +29th March, 1652. I heard that excellent prelate, the primate of Ireland +(Jacobus Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on Heb. iv. 16, encouraging of +penitent sinners. + +5th April, 1652. My brother George brought to Sayes Court Cromwell's Act +of Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. + +13th April, 1652. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother +George's wife was delivered of a son. + +I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which some +time since I sent to Dean Cosin's proselyted son; but I did not conceive +it convenient, for fear of displeasing her Majesty, the Queen. + +15th April, 1652. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his library, +which was one of the choicest collections of any private person in +England. + +The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the picture of +my wife from Dunkirk, in a large tin case without any charge. It is of +Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to the knees, +but it has been somewhat spoiled by washing it ignorantly with soapsuds. + +25th April, 1652. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord +Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who +had been thirteen times to the East Indies. + +29th April, 1652. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much +threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarmed the +whole nation that hardly any one would work, nor stir out of their +houses. So ridiculously were they abused by knavish and ignorant +star-gazers. + +We went this afternoon to see the Queen's house at Greenwich, now given +by the rebels to Bulstrode Whitelocke, one of their unhappy counselors, +and keeper of pretended liberties. + +10th May, 1652. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable creature +burning, who had murdered her husband. I went to see some workmanship of +that admirable artist, Reeves, famous for perspective, and turning +curiosities in ivory. + +29th May, 1652. I went to give order about a coach to be made against my +wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I brought out of +Paris. + +30th May, 1652. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my nephew, +George, might be brought up with my young Lord, his son, to whom I was +recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of camleting silk and +grograms at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel +Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, who had been my +schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's safe landing, and the goods +she was to bring with her out of France; which he courteously granted, +and did me many other kindnesses, that was a great matter in those days. + +In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a Rabinical sermon. +Here is a fair monument in black marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built +that fair house near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend, Sir +Henry Newton, succeeded him. + +3d June, 1652. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to the Magistrates +and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her landing, and show her all +civility. + +4th June, 1652. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, +after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, which had now been +besieged some time by the Prince of Condé's army in the time of the +rebellion, and after she had been now near twelve years from her own +country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. I +went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late +conflict with the Holland fleet, the two nations being now in war, and +which made sailing very unsafe. + +On Whit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very fair one), and +heard one of the canters, who dismissed the assembly rudely, and without +any blessing. Here I stayed till the 10th with no small impatience, when +I walked over to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port, +which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and public structures, +discovers it to have been formerly a considerable and large city. There +are to be seen vast caves and vaults, walls and towers, ruins of +monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which are some handsome +monuments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the manner of those +in the Temple at London. This place being now all in rubbish, and a few +despicable hovels and cottages only standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, +which formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now forsaken +it. + +[Sidenote: TUNBRIDGE] + +11th June, 1652. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls on the +green, we discovered a vessel which proved to be that in which my wife +was, and which got into the harbor about eight that evening, to my no +small joy. They had been three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, +through which they passed, taken for fishers, which was great good +fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture and other rich plunder, +which I bless God came all safe to land, together with my wife, and my +Lady Browne, her mother, who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed +by having been so long at sea, we set not forth toward home till the +14th, when, hearing the smallpox was very rife in and about London, and +Lady Browne having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them +thither, and stayed in a very sweet place, private and refreshing, and +took the waters myself till the 23d, when I went to prepare for their +reception, leaving them for the present in their little cottage by the +Wells. + +The weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rode +negligently under favor of the shade, till, within three miles of +Bromley, at a place called the Procession Oak, two cutthroats started +out, and striking with long staves at the horse, and taking hold of the +reins, threw me down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep thicket, +some quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob +me, as they soon did. What they got of money, was not considerable, but +they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an onyx, +and a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of value, +and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feet, having before +pulled off my boots; they then set me up against an oak, with most bloody +threats to cut my throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise; for +they should be within hearing, I not being the person they looked for. I +told them that if they had not basely surprised me they should not have +had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride near a +hedge, since, had I been in the midway, they dared not have adventured on +me; at which they cocked their pistols, and told me they had long guns, +too, and were fourteen companions. I begged for my onyx, and told them it +being engraved with my arms would betray them; but nothing prevailed. My +horse's bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which they pulled +off, but let the horse graze, and then turning again bridled him and tied +him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse +was perhaps not taken, because he was marked and cropped on both ears, +and well known on that road. Left in this manner, grievously was I +tormented with flies, ants, and the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I +should get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor +see any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling in the +copse. + +After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to turn palm to palm, +having been tied back to back, and then it was long before I could slip +the cord over my wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, and then soon +unbound my feet, and saddling my horse and roaming a while about, I at +last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the rattling of a cart, +toward which I made, and, by the help of two countrymen, I got back into +the highway. I rode to Colonel Blount's, a great justiciary of the times, +who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, sore as my wrists +and arms were, I went to London, and got 500 tickets printed and +dispersed by an officer of Goldsmiths' Hall, and within two days had +tidings of all I had lost, except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and +some trifles. The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a trifle to a +goldsmith's servant, before the tickets came to the shop, by which means +they escaped; the other ring was bought by a victualer, who brought it +to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket seized the man. I afterward +discharged him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did God deliver me +from these villains, and not only so, but restored what they took, as +twice before he had graciously done, both at sea and land, I mean when I +had been robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a considerable loss at +Amsterdam; for which, and many, many signal preservations, I am extremely +obliged to give thanks to God my Savior. + +25th June, 1652. After a drought of near four months, there fell so +violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man +had seen the like in his age; the hail being in some places four or five +inches about, broke all glass about London, especially at Deptford, and +more at Greenwich. + +29th June, 1652. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the water, till +10th of July. + +We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at Summer hill, near +Tunbridge (now given to that villain, Bradshawe, who condemned the King). +'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park; but has nothing else +extraordinary. + +4th July, 1652. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's chapel at Groomsbridge, +a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and watered. In this house was one +of the French kings[45] kept prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. +Packer's father, in remembrance of King Charles the First's safe return +out of Spain. + + [Footnote 45: The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, + 4 Hen. V., by Richard Waller, then owner of this place. See Hasted's + "Kent," vol. i., p. 431.] + +[Sidenote: PENSHURST] + +9th July, 1652. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, famous +once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation +which was wont to meet there, celebrated by that illustrious person, Sir +Philip Sidney, who there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a +park, is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the marriage of +my old fellow-collegiate, Mr. Robert Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy +Sidney, widow of the Earl of Sunderland. + +One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was accordingly summoned to +appear against him; and, on the 12th, was in Westminster Hall, but not +being bound over, nor willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, +coming only to save a friend's bail; but the bill being found, he was +turned over to the Old Bailey. In the meantime, I received a petition +from the prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer in +Kent. He was charged, with other crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I +heard afterward that, had it not been for his companion, a younger man, +he would probably have killed me. He was afterward charged with some +other crime, but, refusing to plead, was pressed to death. + +23d July, 1652. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit me. + +30th July, 1652. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne] +interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. + +1st August, 1652. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a man skilled in +painting and music, and another rare musician, called Mell. I went to see +his collection of pictures, especially those of Julio Romano, which +surely had been the King's, and an Egyptian figure, etc. There were also +excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, and Tintoretto. Lennier had +been a domestic of Queen Elizabeth, and showed me her head, an intaglio +in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me was +exceedingly like her. + +24th August, 1652. My first child, a son, was born precisely at one +o'clock. + +2d September, 1652. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine, of Eltham, +christened my son by the name of Richard. + +22d September, 1652. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was taken with +scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interred in the +church near Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and +according to the church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it +had not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended an excellent +and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having been so obliging on all +occasions to those who continually frequented her house in Paris, which +was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and +afflicted countrymen, during eleven years' residence there in that +honorable situation. + +25th September, 1652. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the +prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and description of Barclay's +"_Icon Animarum_."[46] + + [Footnote 46: The book here referred to is in the British Museum, + entitled "_Joannis Barclaii Icon Animarum_," and printed at London, + 1614, small 12mo. It is written in Latin, and dedicated to Louis + XIII. of France, for what reason does not appear, the author + speaking of himself as a subject of this country. It mentions the + necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skillful gardener + forms his trees; the different dispositions of men, in different + nations; English, Scotch, and Irish, etc. Chapter second contains a + florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but + does not mention Dr. Mason, or his house.] + +5th November, 1652. To London, to visit some friends, but the insolences +were so great in the streets that I could not return till the next day. + +Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins and +Arteries to the College of Physicians, pretending he would not only read +upon them, but celebrate my curiosity as being the first who caused them +to be completed in that manner, and with that cost; but I was not so +willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the College during +their anatomical lectures; which I did accordingly. + +22d November, 1652. I went to London, where was proposed to me the +promoting that great work (since accomplished by Dr. Walton, Bishop of +Chester), "_Biblia Polyglotta_," by Mr. Pierson, that most learned +divine. + +25th December, 1652. Christmas day, no sermon anywhere, no church being +permitted to be open, so observed it at home. The next day, we went to +Lewisham, where an honest divine preached. + +31st December, 1652. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to +Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past. + +[Sidenote: SAYES COURT] + +1st January, 1652-53. I set apart in preparation for the Blessed +Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my +family in Sayes Court, preaching on John vi. 32, 33, showing the +exceeding benefits of our blessed Savior taking our nature upon him. He +had christened my son and churched my wife in our own house as before +noticed. + +17th January, 1653. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court, +which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one entire field of +100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither holly hedge joining to +the bank of the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding +gardens, walks, groves, inclosures, and plantations there. + +21st January, 1653. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings of +my purchase of Sayes Court. + +30th January, 1653. At our own parish church, a stranger preached. There +was now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and, though +the present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily +preached sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man; which was an +extraordinary felicity in this age. + +1st February, 1653. Old Alexander Rosse (author of "_Virgilius +Evangelizans_," and many other little books) presented me with his book +against Mr. Hobbes's "Leviathan." + +19th February, 1653. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon, wind +west. + +22d February, 1653. Was perfected the sealing, livery, and seisin of my +purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glanville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. +Offley, Co. William Glanville (son to Sergeant Glanville, sometime +Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends +dining with me. I had bargained for £3,200, but I paid £3,500. + +25th March, 1653. Came to see me that rare graver in _taille-douce_, +Monsieur Richett, he was sent by Cardinal Mazarine to make a collection +of pictures. + +11th April, 1653. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where every coach +was made to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence, by the sordid fellow who +had purchased it of the state, as they called it. + +17th May, 1653. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several +hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I suppose, by tampering +with mercury about an experiment in gold. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +29th May, 1653. I went to London, to take my last leave of my honest +friend, Mr. Barton, now dying; it was a great loss to me and to my +affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended his funeral. + +8th June, 1653. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn, the great +traveler, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas Keightly, and a virtuoso, +fastastical Simons, who had the talent of embossing so to the life. + +9th June, 1653. I went to visit my worthy neighbor, Sir Henry Newton [at +Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river, +ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most +noble in the world; so as, had the house running water, it were a +princely seat. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visit me, and +he presented me with a seleniscope. + +19th June, 1653. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh, blessed +day! + +21st June, 1653. My Lady Gerrard, and one Esquire Knight, a very rich +gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited me. + +23d June, 1653. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my collections. + +27th June, 1653. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his _aurum +potabile_, with a letter, showing the way of administering it, and the +stupendous cures it had done at Paris; but, ere it came to me, by what +accident I know not, it was all run out. + +17th August, 1653. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house at Horsley +(formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's[47]), where met me Mr. Oughtred, +the famous mathematician; he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers +rich and aromatic balsams, which a chemist, a scholar of his, had sent +him out of Germany. + + [Footnote 47: Evelyn is here in error: Mr. Hyldiard was of East + Horsley, Sir Walter of West.] + +21st August, 1653. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the parson of +the parish of Wotton where I was born, and who had baptized me, preach +after his very plain way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the +sea, the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. + +22d August, 1653. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the famous inn, +the Red Lion, and to see the hospital, and the monument of Archbishop +Abbot, the founder, who lies buried in the chapel of his endowment. + +28th September, 1653. At Greenwich preached that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, +on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and +threatening the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious +impiety of the age. + +11th October, 1653. My son, John Stansfield, was born, being my second +child, and christened by the name of my mother's father, that name now +quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library, +at Sayes Court, where he afterward churched my wife, I always making use +of him on these occasions, because the parish minister dared not have +officiated according to the form and usage of the Church of England, to +which I always adhered. + +25th October, 1653. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court on +Luke xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust judge, showing why +Almighty God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He +afterward administered to us all the Holy Sacrament. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +28th October, 1653. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw +that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that +she spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk +and discourse was like an impudent woman. + +21st November, 1653. I went to London, to speak with Sir John Evelyn, my +kinsman, about the purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westeram, +which afterward Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law, Leech. + +4th December, 1653. Going this day to our church, I was surprised to see +a tradesman, a mechanic, step up; I was resolved yet to stay and see what +he would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20: "And Benaiah +went down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the time of +snow"; the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult when +God called for shedding of blood, inferring that now the saints were +called to destroy temporal governments; with such feculent stuff; so +dangerous a crisis were things grown to. + +25th December, 1653. Christmas day. No churches, or public assembly. I +was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with my family at +home. + +20th January, 1653-54. Come to see my old acquaintance and the most +incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clark,[48] after his travels. +He was an excellent musician, a discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire +(as I remember). Such music before or since did I never hear, that +instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty; but, in my +judgment, far superior to the lute itself, or whatever speaks with +strings. + + [Footnote 48: See under the year 1688, November.] + +25th January, 1654. Died my son, J. Stansfield, of convulsion fits; +buried at Deptford on the east corner of the church, near his mother's +great-grandfather, and other relatives. + +8th February, 1654. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all custom and +decency, the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the Lord Mayor's, riding in +triumph through the city. + +14th February, 1654. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb; he +was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his +tongue rough like a cat's; a sheep also with six legs, which made use of +five of them to walk; a goose that had four legs, two crops, and as many +vents. + +29th March, 1654. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached in my library on +Matt. xxviii. 6, a resurrection sermon, and after it we all received the +Holy Communion. + +6th April, 1654. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby, Mr. Denham, and +other friends to see me. + +15th April, 1654. I went to London to hear the famous Jeremy Taylor +(since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gregory's (near St. Paul's) on +Matt. vi, 48, concerning evangelical perfection. + +5th May, 1654. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headly, apprentice to a +carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new clothing; he thrived very +well, and became rich. + +8th May, 1654. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook's garden, which was +one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well +furnished, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's +garden; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, +planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances, the +banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and seats were carved _à +l'antique_; some good pictures in the house, especially one of Vandyke's, +being a man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. +Ducie's, who has indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of +the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas Fowler's +aviary, which is a poor business. + +[Illustration: _OLIVER CROMWELL DICTATING TO JOHN MILTON_ + +_The letter to the Duke of Savoy to stop the persecution of the +Protestants of Piedmont, 1655. Photogravure from an engraving by Sartain +after Newenham_] + +10th May, 1654. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now the +only place of refreshment about the town for persons of the best quality +to be exceedingly cheated at; Cromwell and his partisans having shut up +and seized on Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual +rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season. + +11th May, 1654. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, +formerly a most ignominious thing, and used only by prostitutes. + +14th May, 1654. There being no such thing as church anniversaries in the +parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whit Sunday. + +15th May, 1654. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the translator of "Juvenal," +to visit me. + +8th June, 1654. My wife and I set out in a coach and four horses, in our +way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire, and other parts, where we +resolved to spend some months. We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and +Chapel of St. George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King +Charles, in the VAULT JUST BEFORE THE ALTAR. The church and workmanship +in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is large in circumference; but +the rooms melancholy, and of ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, +hath, besides its incomparable prospect, a very profound well; and the +terrace toward Eton, with the park, meandering Thames, and sweet meadows, +yield one of the most delightful prospects. That night, we lay at +Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house at Causam [Caversham], now in ruins, +his goodly woods felling by the Rebels. + +9th June, 1654. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately fired, was +now new built. At one end of this town, we saw my Lord Seymour's house, +but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended by windings +for near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. We passed by +Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and river. Thence, to Newbury, a +considerable town, and Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and +castle, this last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. +Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, built _à la +moderne_. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, on +the ascent of hill, flanked with wood, and regarding the river, and so, +at night, to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., uncle to +my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of the week we did nothing but +feast and make good cheer, to welcome my wife. + +27th June, 1654. We all went to see Bath, where I bathed in the cross +bath. Among the rest of the idle diversions of the town, one musician was +famous for acting a changeling, which indeed he personated strangely. + +The _facciáta_ of this cathedral is remarkable for its historical +carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. The town is +entirely built of stone, but the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. +Here, we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who +frequent the place for health, till the 30th, and then went to Bristol, a +city emulating London, not for its large extent, but manner of building, +shops, bridge, traffic, exchange, market-place, etc. The governor showed +us the castle, of no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as +standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for Ireland, and the +Western world. Here I first saw the manner of refining sugar and casting +it into loaves, where we had a collection of eggs fried in the sugar +furnace, together with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared most +stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little distance from the +town, the precipice whereof is equal to anything of that nature I have +seen in the most confragose cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding +between them at an extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for +diamonds, and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also on the side of +this horrid Alp a very romantic seat: and so we returned to Bath in the +evening, and July 1st to Cadenham. + +4th July, 1654. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited +back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a town famous for its +trouts, and the next day arrived at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the +extremity of heat. + +[Sidenote: OXFORD] + +6th July, 1654. I went early to London, and the following day met my wife +and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act. + +8th July, 1654. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the schools; +and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at St. Mary's (according to +custom), and the Prevaricators, their drollery. Then, the Doctors +disputed. We supped at Wadham College. + +9th July, 1654. Dr. French preached at St. Mary's, on Matt. xii. 42, +advising the students the search after true wisdom, not to be had in the +books of philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the +famous Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now +Cromwell's Vice-Chancellor. We dined with Dr. Ward, Mathematical +Professor (since Bishop of Sarum), and at night supped in Baliol College +Hall, where I had once been student and fellow-commoner, and where they +made me extraordinarily welcome. + +10th July, 1654. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear the +several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the whole Act in St. +Mary's, the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the +several Professors, creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, etc., +those ancient ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholly +abolished. Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor among others, performing his Act +incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his +Presbyterian animosities, which he withheld, not even against that +learned and pious divine, Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech +of the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and three in +medicine, which was thought a considerable matter, the times considered. +I dined at one Monsieur Fiat's, a student of Exeter College, and supped +at a magnificent entertainment of Wadham Hall, invited by my dear and +excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (after, Bishop of Chester). + +11th July, 1654. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, though +invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and +theorbos, performed by some ingenious scholars. After dinner, I visited +that miracle of a youth, Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of +Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), bibliothecarius of the +Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He showed us the rarities of +that most famous place, manuscripts, medals, and other curiosities. Among +the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to be +baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding: "and Philip and the Gelding +went down into the water," etc. The original Acts of the Council of Basil +900 years since, with the _bulla_, or leaden affix, which has a silken +cord passing through every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of 800 +years antiquity; the old Ritual _secundum usum Sarum_ exceeding +voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities, the "Proverbs of Solomon," +written in French by a lady, every chapter of a several character, or +hand, the most exquisite imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta, +folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses' hide, extremely +rare; but, what is most illustrious, there were no less than 1,000 MSS. +in nineteen languages, especially Oriental, furnishing that new part of +the library built by Archbishop Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby +and the Earl of Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, they show some +Indian weapons, urns, lamps, etc., but the rarest is the whole Alcoran, +written on one large sheet of calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or +cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as +no printed letter comes near it; also, a roll of magical charms, divers +talismans, and some medals. + +Then, I led my wife into the Convocation House, finely wainscoted; the +Divinity School, and Gothic carved roof; the Physic, or Anatomy School, +adorned with some rarities of natural things; but nothing extraordinary +save the skin of a jackal, a rarely-colored jackatoo, or prodigious large +parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our bumblebee, which +indeed I had not seen before, that I remember. + +12th July, 1654. We went to St. John's, saw the library and the two +skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put together; observable is here +also the store of mathematical instruments, chiefly given by the late +Archbishop Laud, who built here a handsome quadrangle. + +Thence we went to New College, where the chapel was in its ancient garb, +notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the times. Thence, to Christ's +Church, in whose library was shown us an Office of Henry VIII., the +writing, miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing, any +curiosity I had seen of that kind; it was given by their founder, +Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of the cathedral (famous in my time) +I found much abused. The ample hall and column, that spreads its capital +to sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very remarkable. + +Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw the library and chapel, +which was likewise in pontifical order, the altar only I think turned +tablewise, and there was still the double organ, which abominations (as +now esteemed) were almost universally demolished; Mr. Gibbon, that famous +musician, giving us a taste of his skill and talents on that instrument. + +Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant was shown us for a +great wonder. There grew canes, olive trees, rhubarb, but no +extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which, when the +ladies had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings. + +13th July, 1654. We all dined at that most obliging and +universally-curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first +who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles +and palaces, and so ordered them one upon another, as to take the honey +without destroying the bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, +little statues, vanes, etc.; and, he was so abundantly civil, finding me +pleased with them, to present me with one of the hives which he had +empty, and which I afterward had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it +continued many years, and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and +contemplate with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a hollow +statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a long, concealed pipe +that went to its mouth,[49] while one speaks through it at a good +distance. He had, above in his lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, +dials, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical +curiosities, a waywiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic, and +other sections, a balance on a demi-circle; most of them of his own, and +that prodigious young scholar Mr. Christopher Wren, who presented me with +a piece of white marble, which he had stained with a lively red, very +deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural. + + [Footnote 49: Such were the speaking figures long ago exhibited in + Spring Gardens, and in Leicester Fields.] + +Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at +Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired during the wars; and, +passing near the seat of Sir Walter Pye, we came to Cadenham. + +16th July, 1654. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir +John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the House of +Commons; his seat is at Broad Hinton, where he now lived but in the +gate-house, his very fair dwelling house having been burnt by his own +hands, to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, my cousin +William Glanville's eldest son showed me such a lock for a door, that for +its filing, and rare contrivances was a masterpiece, yet made by a +country blacksmith. But, we have seen watches made by another with as +much curiosity as the best of that profession can brag of; and, not many +years after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of ironwork +more exquisitely wrought and polished than in any part of Europe, so as a +door lock of a tolerable price was esteemed a curiosity even among +foreign princes. + +Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 19th, to Sir Edward Baynton's at Spie +Park, a place capable of being made a noble seat; but the humorous old +knight has built a long single house of two low stories on the precipice +of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green in the park. +The house is like a long barn, and has not a window on the prospect side. +After dinner, they went to bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were +made so exceedingly drunk, that in returning home we escaped great +dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all gentlemen's +servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous, and much unbecoming +a knight still less a Christian. + +[Sidenote: SALISBURY] + +20th July, 1654. We proceeded to Salisbury; the cathedral I take to be +the most complete piece of Gothic work in Europe, taken in all its +uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut +out of the quarry; most observable are those in the chapter house. There +are some remarkable monuments, particularly the ancient Bishops, founders +of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marquis of Hertford's, the cloisters +of the palace and garden, and the great mural dial. + +In the afternoon we went to Wilton, a fine house of the Earl of Pembroke, +in which the most observable are the dining room in the modern-built +part toward the garden, richly gilded and painted with story, by De +Crete; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landscapes, by +Pierce; some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best French manner; a +pair of artificial winding stairs of stone, and divers rare pictures. The +garden, heretofore esteemed the noblest in England, is a large handsome +plain, with a grotto and waterworks, which might be made much more +pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and raised; for all +is effected by a mere force. It has a flower garden, not inelegant. But, +after all, that which renders the seat delightful is, its being so near +the downs and noble plains about the country contiguous to it. The +stables are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the +walks of lime trees, with the court and fountain of the stables adorned +with the Cæsars' heads. + +We returned this evening by the plain, and fourteen-mile race, where out +of my lord's hare warren we were entertained with a long course of a hare +for near two miles in sight. Near this, is a _pergola_, or stand, built +to view the sports; and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most +considerable parts of the city. The market place, with most of the +streets, are watered by a quick current and pure stream running through +the middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with a small charge +they might be purged and rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made one +of the sweetest towns, but now the common buildings are despicable, and +the streets dirty. + +22d July, 1654. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle Hungerford's, +called Darnford Magna, situated in a valley under the plain, most sweetly +watered, abounding in trouts caught by spear in the night, when they come +attracted by a light set in the stern of a boat. + +After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the goodly plain, or +rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, verdure, and +innumerable flocks, to be one of the most delightful prospects in nature, +and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of in +romances. + +Now we arrived at Stonehenge, indeed a stupendous monument, appearing at +a distance like a castle; how so many and huge pillars of stone should +have been brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops of +them, in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister or heathen and +more natural temple, is wonderful. The stone is so exceedingly hard, that +all my strength with a hammer could not break a fragment; which hardness +I impute to their so long exposure. To number them exactly is very +difficult, they lie in such variety of postures and confusion, though +they seemed not to exceed 100; we counted only 95. As to their being +brought thither, there being no navigable river near, is by some admired; +but for the stone, there seems to be the same kind about 20 miles +distant, some of which appear above ground. About the same hills, are +divers mounts raised, conceived to be ancient intrenchments, or places of +burial, after bloody fights. We now went by Devizes, a reasonable large +town, and came late to Cadenham. + +27th July, 1654. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excellent chase +for four or five hours, but the venison little worth. + +29th July, 1654. I went to Langford to see my Cousin Stephens. I also saw +Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grandfather to my +wife, and sold by her uncle; both the seat and house very honorable and +well built, much after the modern fashion. + +31st July, 1654. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been long and +nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt +another relation of my wife's; for I indeed made these excursions to show +her the most considerable parts of her native country, who, from her +childhood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my own +curiosity and information. + +[Sidenote: GLOUCESTER] + +About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect from +woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a handsome +city, considerable for the church and monuments. The minster is indeed a +noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through a passage of +twenty-five yards in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose, either +to show the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning +priest, who, standing unseen in a recess in the middle of the chapel, +might hear whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the choir, in +which lies buried King Stephen[50] under a monument of Irish oak, not ill +carved considering the age. The new library is a noble though a private +design. I was likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it. +The Duke's house, the castle works, are now almost quite dismantled; nor +yet without sad thoughts did I see the town, considering how fatal the +siege had been a few years before to our good King. + + [Footnote 50: King Stephen was buried at Faversham. The effigy + Evelyn alluded to is that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.] + +1st August, 1654. We set out toward Worcester, by a way thickly planted +with cider fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a +valley through a steep declivity toward the foot of the great Malvern +Hills; they are said to heal many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, +sore eyes, etc. Ascending a great height above them to the trench +dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all +Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknoch, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, +Shropshire, Warwick, Derbyshires, and many more. We could discern +Tewkesbury, King's road, toward Bristol, etc.; so as I esteem it one of +the goodliest vistas in England. + +2d August, 1654. This evening we arrived at Worcester, the Judges of +Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the town the next +day, we found the Cathedral much ruined by the late wars, otherwise a +noble structure. The town is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly +river Severn running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. + +3d August, 1654. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the castle, the +dwelling house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on +an eminent rock which gives prospect into a most goodly green, a woody +and plentifully watered country; the river running so delightfully under +it, that it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one should meet +with. The gardens are prettily disposed; but might be much improved. Here +they showed us Sir Guy's great two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, +and other relics of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old +town, and hath one church full of ancient monuments. + +Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend, Sir H. Puckering, +at the Abbey, and though a melancholy old seat, yet in a rich soil. + +Hence to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his penances, and died. It +is a squalid den made in the rock, crowned yet with venerable oaks and +looking on a goodly stream, so as, were it improved as it might be, it +were capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place. Near this, +we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, +out of which there are likewise divers other caves cut, and some very +capacious. + +The next place to Coventry. The cross is remarkable for Gothic work and +rich gilding, comparable to any I had ever seen, except that of Cheapside +in London, now demolished. This city has many handsome churches, a +beautiful wall, a fair free school and library to it; the streets full of +great shops, clean and well paved. At going forth the gate, they show us +the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, said to have been killed by Sir Guy, +but which I take to be the chine of a whale. + +[Sidenote: LEICESTER] + +4th August, 1654. Hence, riding through a considerable part of +Leicestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in +the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my wife's uncle. + +7th August, 1654. Went to Uppingham, the shire town of Rutland, pretty +and well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where +most of the rural parishes are but of mud; and the people living as +wretchedly as in the most impoverished parts of France, which they much +resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially +Leicestershire) much in common; the gentry free drinkers. + +9th August, 1654. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and +pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney flues like so many +smiths' forges; however, famous for the tomb of the tyrant, Richard III., +which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink. +Also, here in one of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal +Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poor hospital, near +which a wretch has made him a house out of the ruins of a stately church. +Saw the ruins of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained +at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect to meet +with so far North, especially very good melons. We returned to my +uncle's. + +14th August, 1654. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding +through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of +the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every +nobleman's horse that passes with his lord through the street, unless +redeemed with a certain piece of money. In token of this, are several +gilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seems to have been large +and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old +Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of +Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, +situate on the brow of a hill, built _à la moderne_ near a park walled +in, and a fine wood at the descent. + +Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging to Mr. Heath, son +of the late Lord Chief Justice of that name. Here, after dinner, parting +with the company that conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by +Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a long ridge of +hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for its strenuous +resistance in the late civil war. + +Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison. Next, by Wharton +House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, a handsome seat; then by Home, a +noble place belonging to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous +river Trent, which divides the South from the North of England; and so +lay that night at Nottingham. + +This whole town and county seems to be but one entire rock, as it were, +an exceedingly pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here, I observed divers to +live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in +France. The church is well built on an eminence; there is a fair house of +the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepont's; an ample market place; large +streets, full of crosses; the relics of an ancient castle, hollowed +beneath which are many caverns, especially that of the Scots' King, and +his work while there. + +This place is remarkable for being the place where his Majesty first +erected his standard at the beginning of our late unhappy differences. +The prospects from this city toward the river and meadows are most +delightful. + +15th August, 1654. We passed next through Sherwood Forest, accounted the +most extensive in England. Then, Paplewick, an incomparable vista with +the pretty castle near it. Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey, belonging to +the Lord Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau in France, capable of +being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with brave woods and +streams; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious abbey church. Next, +by Mansfield town; then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, +seated in a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a noble yet +melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and stately building. Next to +Worksop Abbey, almost demolished; the church has a double flat tower +entire, and a pretty gate. The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, and +has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park that affords a +delicate prospect. Tickel, a town and castle, has a very noble prospect. +All these in Nottinghamshire. + +16th August, 1654. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night; it +is a large fair town, famous for great wax lights, and good stockings. + +17th August, 1654. Passed through Pontefract; the castle famous for many +sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death of that unhappy King +murdered in it (Richard II.), was now demolishing by the Rebels; it +stands on a mount, and makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a +house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially Mr. +Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle ruins. We all +alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal spring, which they call +Robin Hood's Well; near it, is a stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink +out of, chained to the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which +we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seat), and +in sight of divers other gentlemen's fair houses. This tract is a goodly, +fertile, well-watered, and wooded country, abounding with pasture and +plenty of provisions. + +[Sidenote: YORK] + +To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a circular form, +watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of considerable burden +on it; over it is a stone bridge emulating that of London, and built on; +the middle arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a wharf +of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very neat. But most +remarkable and worth seeing is St. Peter's Cathedral, which of all the +great churches in England had been best preserved from the fury of the +sacrilegious, by composition with the Rebels when they took the city, +during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a most entire +magnificent piece of Gothic architecture. The screen before the choir is +of stone carved with flowers, running work and statues of the old kings. +Many of the monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in these +days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and Common Prayer Book +covered with crimson velvet, and richly embossed with silver gilt; also a +service for the altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, +plates, chalices, patins, etc., with a gorgeous covering for the altar +and pulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall whereof +rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got up to the tower, +whence we had a prospect toward Durham, and could see Ripon, part of +Lancashire, the famous and fatal Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, +and all the environs of that admirable country. Sir ---- Ingoldsby has +here a large house, gardens, and tennis court; also the King's house and +church near the castle, which was modernly fortified with a palisade and +bastions. The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like London. + +18th August, 1654. We went to Beverley, a large town with two stately +churches, St. John's and St. Mary's, not much inferior to the best of our +cathedrals. Here a very old woman showed us the monuments, and, being +above 100 years of age, spoke the language of Queen Mary's days, in whose +time she was born; she was widow of a sexton who had belonged to the +church a hundred years. + +Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to Hull, situated like +Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick +and earth. It has a good market place and harbor for ships. Famous also +(or rather infamous) is this town for Hotham's refusing entrance to his +Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing. And here ends the south of +Yorkshire. + +[Sidenote: LINCOLN] + +19th August, 1654. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about two +leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed it in a good barge +to Barton, the first town in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh ground +till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, and then +had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury Plain. +Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven, steep, and ragged; +formerly full of good houses, especially churches and abbeys. The Minster +almost comparable to that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, +and having a fair front (herein was interred Queen Eleanora, the loyal +and loving wife who sucked the poison out of her husband's wound); the +abbot founder, with rare carving in the stone; the great bell, or Tom, as +they call it. I went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all +over the country. The soldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses +from the gravestones, so as few inscriptions were left; they told us that +these men went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till +they had rent and torn off some barge loads of metal, not sparing even +the monuments of the dead; so hellish an avarice possessed them: beside +which, they exceedingly ruined the city. + +Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high, comely, middle-aged, +and well-proportioned, who kept a very neat and clean alehouse, and got +most by people's coming to see her on account of her height. + +20th August, 1654. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large +heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a pretty town, so well +situated on the side of a bottom which is large and at a distance +environed with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider it +comparable to most inland places of England; famous is the steeple for +the exceeding height of the shaft, which is of stone. + +About eighteen miles south, we pass by a noble seat, and see Boston at a +distance. Here, we came to a parish of which the parson had tithe ale. + +Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Horninghold, from whence I +set out on this excursion. + +22d August, 1654. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable +sport. + +25th August, 1654. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's, +in Northamptonshire, built _à la moderne_; the garden and stables +agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, and the seat naked: returned that +evening. + +27th August, 1654. Mr. Allington preached an excellent discourse from +Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those bold sermons of the +members warring against the mind, or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied +to the wicked regicides; for which he was ruined. We had no sermon in the +afternoon. + +30th August, 1654. Taking leave of my friends, who had now feasted me +more than a month, I, with my wife, etc., set our faces toward home, and +got this evening to Peterborough, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of +St. John's (one deep in the blood of our good king), built out of the +ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. The church is exceeding fair, +full of monuments of great antiquity. Here lies Queen Catherine, the +unhappy wife of Henry VIII., and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of +Scots. On the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much +inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by many sluices, cuts, +mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions; at which the city +and country about it consisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, +were much displeased. + +Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another well-built church. + +31st August, 1654. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that town, +fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds +in wheat that, when any King of England passes through it, they have a +custom to meet him with a hundred plows. + +[Sidenote: CAMBRIDGE] + +This evening, to Cambridge; and went first to St. John's College, well +built of brick, and library, which I think is the fairest of that +University. One Mr. Benlowes has given it all the ornaments of _pietra +commessa_,[51] whereof a table and one piece of perspective is very fine; +other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old +song-book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There hangs in the +library the picture of John Williams, Archbishop of York, sometime Lord +Keeper, my kinsman, and their great benefactor. + + [Footnote 51: Marble, inlaid of various colors, representing + flowers, birds, etc.] + +Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any +university in Europe; but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ +Church, in Oxford; the hall is ample and of stone, the fountain in the +quadrangle is graceful, the chapel and library fair. There they showed us +the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and +emblem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly relating to +the Swedish; in truth, it seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however +the title may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in +manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities, given by the +Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VIII., and the before-mentioned +Archbishop Williams, when Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well +stored. The Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle +cloistered and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own +chamber. + +Thence to Caius, and afterward to King's College, where I found the +chapel altogether answered expectation, especially the roof, all of +stone, which for the flatness of its laying and carving may, I conceive, +vie with any in Christendom. The contignation of the roof (which I went +upon), weight, and artificial joining of the stones is admirable. The +lights are also very fair. In one aisle lies the famous Dr. Collins, so +celebrated for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roof we could +descry Ely, and the encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to set up +their tents and booths; also Royston, Newmarket, etc., houses belonging +to the King. The library is too narrow. + +Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished. + +Peter-House, formerly under the government of my worthy friend, Dr. +Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough; a pretty neat college, having a +delicate chapel. Next to Sidney, a fine college. + +Catherine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous for the learned +Bishop Andrews, once Master. Emanuel College, that zealous house, where +to the hall they have a parlor for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, +_ab origine_, built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the +library. + +Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy situation. Next +to Christ-College, a very noble erection, especially the modern part, +built without the quadrangle toward the gardens, of exact architecture. + +The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library but mean, though +somewhat improved by the wainscoting and books lately added by the Bishop +Bancroft's library and MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only King +James's Works, being his own gift, and kept very reverently. + +The market place is very ample, and remarkable for old Hobson, the +pleasant carrier's beneficence of a fountain.[52] But the whole town is +situate in a low, dirty, unpleasant place, the streets ill-paved, the air +thick and infected by the fens, nor are its churches, (of which St. +Mary's is the best) anything considerable in compare to Oxford.[53] + + [Footnote 52: A conduit it should rather be called.] + + [Footnote 53: The reader must remember that an Oxford man is + speaking.] + +From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent some time in seeing that +goodly place built by Howard, Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is +a mixed fabric, between antique and modern, but observable for its being +completely finished, and without comparison is one of the stateliest +palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two courts, the first very large, +winged with cloisters. The front had a double entrance; the hall is fair, +but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very large, +as are the cellars, arched with stone, very neat and well disposed; these +offices are joined by a wing out of the way very handsomely. The gallery +is the most cheerful and I think one of the best in England; a fair +dining-room, and the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a pretty +chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well inclosed. It has also a +bowling-alley, a noble well-walled, wooded and watered park, full of fine +_collines_ and ponds: the river glides before the palace, to which is an +avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminished by its being placed +in an obscure bottom. For the rest, is a perfectly uniform structure, and +shows without like a diadem, by the decorations of the cupolas and other +ornaments on the pavilions; instead of rails and balusters, there is a +border of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near +Charing-Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer. + +This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for the +abundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteemed the best of any +foreign country. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +3d October, 1654. Having dined here, we passed through Bishop Stortford, +a pretty watered town, and so by London, late home to Sayes Court, after +a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refreshment +after my turmoil and building. + +10th October, 1654. To my brother at Wotton, who had been sick. + +14th October, 1654. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where I +met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his +Majesty's chaplains. + +15th October, 1654. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne, and +other gentlemen of my sweet and native country. + +24th October, 1654. The good old parson, Higham, preached at Wotton +Church: a plain preacher, but innocent and honest man. + +23d November, 1654. I went to London, to visit my cousin Fanshawe, and +this day I saw one of the rarest collections of agates, onyxes, and +intaglios, that I had ever seen either at home or abroad, collected by a +conceited old hatmaker in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, +heretofore the great Earl of Leicester's. + +28th November, 1654. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us; +also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer, after the Italian +manner, of any in England; he entertained us with his voice and theorbo. + +30th November, 1654. My birthday, being the 34th year of my age: blessing +God for his providence, I went to London to visit my brother. + +3d December, 1654. Advent Sunday. There being no Office at the church but +extemporary prayers after the Presbyterian way, for now all forms were +prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldom went to +church upon solemn feasts; but, either went to London, where some of the +orthodox sequestered divines did privately use the Common Prayer, +administer sacraments, etc., or else I procured one to officiate in my +house; wherefore, on the 10th, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered minister +of Eltham, preached to my family in my library, and gave us the Holy +Communion. + +25th December, 1654. Christmas day. No public offices in churches, but +penalties on observers, so as I was constrained to celebrate it at home. + +1st January, 1654-55. Having with my family performed the public offices +of the day, and begged a blessing on the year I was now entering, I went +to keep the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, at Woodcot. + +19th January, 1655. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my +third, but second living. Christened on the 26th by the name of John. + +28th January, 1655. A stranger preached from Colossians iii. 2, inciting +our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterward +that this man had been both chaplain and lieutenant to Admiral Penn, +using both swords; whether ordained or not I cannot say; into such times +were we fallen! + +24th February, 1655. I was showed a table clock whose balance was only a +crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires, without being at all fixed, but +rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring concealed from +sight, it was thrown up to the utmost channel again, made with an +imperceptible declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily +entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half giving progress +to the hand that showed the hour, and giving notice by a small bell, so +as in 120 half minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the +ejaculatory spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece +(richly adorned) had been presented by some German prince to our late +king, and was now in the possession of the usurper; valued at £200. + +2d March, 1655. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweler, showed me a most rich +agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having a figure of Cleopatra at the +scroll, her body, hair, mantle, and veil, of the several natural colors. +It was supported by a half Mark Antony, the colors rarely natural, and +the work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several pieces; had +they been all of one stone, it were invaluable. + +18th March, 1655. Went to London, on purpose to hear that excellent +preacher, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17, showing what were the +conditions of obtaining eternal life; also, concerning abatements for +unavoidable infirmities, how cast on the accounts of the cross. On the +31st, I made a visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about some +spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I +beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his +heavenly assistances! + +2d April, 1655. This was the first week, that, my uncle Pretyman being +parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now sojourning +with him in my own house. + +9th April, 1655. I went to see the great ship newly built by the usurper, +Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass guns, and 1,000 tons burden. In the +prow was Oliver on horseback, trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, +Irishman, Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made +out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his insulting +head; the word, GOD WITH US. + +15th April, 1655. I went to London with my family, to celebrate the feast +of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory's; the ruling Powers +conniving at the use of the Liturgy, etc., in the church alone. In the +afternoon, Mr. Pierson (since Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap, +but was disturbed by an alarm of fire, which about this time was very +frequent in the city. + +29th May, 1655. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley. + +17th June, 1655. There was a collection for the persecuted churches and +Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. + +3d July, 1655. I was shown a pretty Terella, described with all the +circles, and showing all the magnetic deviations. + +14th July, 1655. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir +Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr. Seymour. + +1st August, 1655. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles Howard's +amphitheater, garden, or solitary recess, being fifteen acres environed +by a hill. He showed us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. + +[Sidenote: ALBURY] + +10th August, 1655. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to +build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many rare pictures, +particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus, as big as the life, by +Holbein; a Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the skull, +carved in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered £100; +also Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and +other curiosities. + +21st August, 1655. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Cary, at my Lady +Peterborough's, in an ancient monastery well in repair, but the park much +defaced; the house is nobly furnished. The chimney-piece in the great +chamber, carved in wood, was of Henry VIII., and was taken from a house +of his in Bletchingley. At Ryegate, was now the Archbishop of Armagh, the +learned James Usher, whom I went to visit. He received me exceeding +kindly. In discourse with him, he told me how great the loss of time was +to study much the Eastern languages; that, excepting Hebrew, there was +little fruit to be gathered of exceeding labor; that, besides some +mathematical books, the Arabic itself had little considerable; that the +best text was the Hebrew Bible; that the Septuagint was finished in +seventy days, but full of errors, about which he was then writing; that +St. Hierome's was to be valued next the Hebrew; also that the seventy +translated the Pentateuch only, the rest was finished by others; that the +Italians at present understood but little Greek, and Kircher was a +mountebank; that Mr. Selden's best book was his "Titles of Honor"; that +the church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likelihood +bring in Popery. In conclusion he recommended to me the study of +philology, above all human studies; and so, with his blessing, I took my +leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton. + +27th August, 1655. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural bowers, +cabinets, and shady walks in the box copses: hence we walked to +Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seat, environed with elm trees and +walnuts innumerable, and of which last he told us they received a +considerable revenue. Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with +yew and box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it seeming from +these evergreens to be summer all the winter. + +28th August, 1655. Came that renowned mathematician, Mr. Oughtred, to see +me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. Among +other discourse, he told me he thought water to be the philosopher's +first matter, and that he was well persuaded of the possibility of their +elixir; he believed the sun to be a material fire, the moon a continent, +as appears by the late selenographers; he had strong apprehensions of +some extraordinary event to happen the following year, from the +calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period; and added that it +might possibly be to convert the Jews by our Savior's visible appearance, +or to judge the world; and therefore, his word was, "_Parate in +occursum_"; he said original sin was not met with in the Greek Fathers, +yet he believed the thing; this was from some discourse on Dr. Taylor's +late book, which I had lent him. + +16th September, 1655. Preached at St. Gregory's one Darnel, on Psalm iv. +4, concerning the benefit of self-examination; more learning in SO SHORT +A TIME AS AN HOUR I have seldom heard. + +17th September, 1655. Received £2,600 of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of +Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were +so intolerable that they ate up the rents, etc., surcharged as that +county had been above all others during our unnatural war. + +19th September, 1655. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. +Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill: and, the next day, I visited Sir Henry +Newton at Charlton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady +Beauchamp, daughter to the Lord Capel. + +On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to catechize and instruct +my family, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish churches, so +as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common +points of Christianity; all devotion being now placed in hearing sermons +and discourses of speculative and national things. + +26th September, 1655. I went to see Colonel Blount's subterranean warren, +and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. + +30th September, 1655. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about his +vast design of a mole to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Sayes +Court. + +3d November, 1655. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a +Greek concerning the devastation of Poland by the late incursion of the +Swedes. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +27th November, 1655. To London about Sir Nicholas Crisp's designs. + +I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the former great +Buckingham, but now much ruined through neglect. + +Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib, a public spirited and +ingenious person, who had propagated many useful things and arts. He told +me of the castles which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany +(he himself being a Lithuanian, as I remember), which are furnished with +small ordnance of silver on the battlements, out of which they discharge +excellent perfumes about the rooms, charging them with a little powder to +set them on fire, and disperse the smoke: and in truth no more than need, +for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me of an ink that would +give a dozen copies, moist sheets of paper being pressed on it; and +remain perfect; and a receipt how to take off any print without the least +injury to the original. This gentleman was master of innumerable +curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home that evening by +water; and was afflicted for it with a cold that had almost killed me. + +This day, came forth the Protector's Edict, or Proclamation, prohibiting +all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or teaching any +schools, in which he imitated the apostate, Julian; with the decimation +of all the royal party's revenues throughout England. + +14th December, 1655. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher of +Malmesbury, with whom I had been long acquainted in France. + +Now were the Jews admitted. + +25th December, 1655. There was no more notice taken of Christmas-day in +churches. + +I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral sermon of +Preaching, this being the last day; after which Cromwell's proclamation +was to take place, that none of the Church of England should dare either +to preach, or administer Sacraments, teach schools, etc., on pain of +imprisonment, or exile. So this was the most mournful day that in my life +I had seen, or the Church of England herself, since the Reformation; to +the great rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter.[54] So pathetic was +his discourse, that it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife, +and some of our family, received the Communion, God make me thankful, who +hath hitherto provided for us the food of our souls as well as bodies! +The Lord Jesus pity our distressed Church, and bring back the captivity +of Zion! + + [Footnote 54: The text was 2 Cor. xiii 9. That, however persecution + dealt with the Ministers of God's Word, they were still to pray for + the flock, and wish their perfection, as it was the flock to pray + for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul.--EVELYN'S + NOTE.] + +5th January, 1655-56. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, son to the Earl of +Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's council; Mr. +John Hervey, and John Denham, the poet. + +18th January, 1656. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, but a +mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept me within doors +near a whole month after. + +5th February, 1656. Was shown me a pretty perspective and well +represented in a triangular box, the great Church of Haarlem in Holland, +to be seen through a small hole at one of the corners, and contrived into +a handsome cabinet. It was so rarely done, that all the artists and +painters in town flocked to see and admire it. + +10th February, 1656. I heard Dr. Wilkins preach before the Lord Mayor in +St. Paul's, showing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a +most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and took +great pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant, sacrilegious +commanders and soldiers, who would fain have demolished all places and +persons that pretended to learning. + +11th February, 1656. I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of many years I +had not been, and found it very glorious and well furnished, as far as I +could safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defaced that rare +piece of Henry VII., etc., done on the walls of the King's privy chamber. + +14th February, 1656. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley, of +Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my +fellow-traveler in Italy. + +19th February, 1656. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous +painter of fowls, beasts, and birds. + +4th March, 1656. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear +the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes and +plain ground, with that wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a +young man, yet so perfect and skillful, that there was nothing, however +cross and perplexed, brought to him by our artists, which he did not play +off at sight with ravishing sweetness and improvements, to the +astonishment of our best masters. In sum, he played on the single +instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, +acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this hour +amazed that God should give so great perfection to so young a person. +There were at that time as excellent in their profession as any were +thought to be in Europe, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this +prodigy appeared. I can no longer question the effects we read of in +David's harp to charm evil spirits, or what is said some particular notes +produced in the passions of Alexander, and that King of Denmark. + +12th April, 1656. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Robert Boyle (that excellent +person and great virtuoso), Dr. Taylor, and Dr. Wilkins, dined with me at +Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In +the afternoon, we all went to Colonel Blount's, to see his newly-invented +plows. + +22d April, 1656. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Paston's son, +since Earl of Yarmouth. Afterward, I went to see his Majesty's house at +Eltham, both palace and chapel in miserable ruins, the noble woods and +park destroyed by Rich, the rebel. + +6th May, 1656. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French Sorbonnist, a +proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they fell to dispute on original +sin, in Latin, upon a book newly published by the Doctor, who was much +satisfied with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned +antiquary and herald. Returning, I was shown the three vast volumes of +Father Kircher's, "_Obeliscus Pamphilius_" and "_Ægyptiacus_"; in the +second volume I found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to +him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed it +from the stone itself brought me to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell. + +7th May, 1656. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to propose +Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have Orders, I having +sometime before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England, +her doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some +difficulty; so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the +Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, who was very poor and +in great want; to that necessity were our clergy reduced! In the +afternoon I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the +marriage of my cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine. + +8th May, 1656. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I first +met with Sir P. Neal, famous for his optic glasses. Greatorix, the +mathematical instrument maker, showed me his excellent invention to +quench fire. + +12th May, 1656. Was published my "Essay on Lucretius," with innumerable +errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who undertook the correction of +the press in my absence. Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then +known among us. + +28th May, 1656. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambassador, who +received me with extraordinary courtesy. I found him a judicious, crafty, +and wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the +times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the +observation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and +their private animosities, and little care of the public. + +Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since executed), Lord +Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, the +Marquis took the turtle-doves in the aviary for owls. + +The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, brother to the +Earl of Sunderland, came to see my garden. + +7th July, 1656. I began my journey to see some parts of the northeast of +England; but the weather was so excessively hot and dusty, I shortened my +progress. + +8th July, 1656. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly demolished +by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which were all burned, but +were then repairing. The town is built on a rising ground, having fair +meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to +have been built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Constantine +the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the pinnacle of one of their +wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly +carved. The walls are exceedingly strong, deeply trenched, and filled +with earth. It has six gates, and some watchtowers, and some handsome +churches. But what was shown us as a kind of miracle, at the outside of +the Castle, the wall where Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those +valiant and noble persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the last +siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in cold blood, after +surrendering on articles; having been disappointed of relief from the +Scotch army, which had been defeated with the King at Worcester. The +place was bare of grass for a large space, all the rest of it abounding +with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and factious town, now +swarming with sectaries. Their trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and +baize and says with Spain; it is the only place in England where these +stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters and eringo +root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale. + +Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very fair church, finely +situated, the valley well watered. Here, I met with Dr. Stokes, a young +gentleman, but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing town, as +most are in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. + +Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most pleasant, +well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair churches, many noble +houses, especially the Lord Devereux's; a brave quay, and commodious +harbor, being about seven miles from the main; an ample market place. +Here was born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which +was not finished. + +I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison; a new fanatic +sect, of dangerous principles, who show no respect to any man, +magistrate, or other, and seem a melancholy, proud sort of people, and +exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted twenty days; +but another, endeavoring to do the like, perished on the 10th, when he +would have eaten, but could not. + +10th July, 1656. I returned homeward, passing again through Colchester; +and, by the way, near the ancient town of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built +in a park by Henry VII. and VIII., and given by Queen Elizabeth to the +Earl of Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham, and +since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a fair +old house, built with brick, low, being only of two stories, as the +manner then was; the gate-house better; the court, large and pretty; the +staircase, of extraordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir +Francis Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; the +galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the garden a fair plot, and +the whole seat well accommodated with water; but, above all, I admired +the fair avenue planted with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a +mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and may +be reformed. There is another fair walk of the same at the mall and +wilderness, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace toward the park, +which was well stored with deer and ponds. + +11th July, 1656. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir J. +Winter's project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the sulphur, and +render it sweet. He did it by burning the coals in such earthen pots as +the glass men melt their metal, so firing them without consuming them, +using a bar of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook at one +end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace with other crude +sea-coals under them, may be drawn out of the pots sticking to the iron, +whence they are beaten off in great half-exhausted cinders, which being +rekindled, make a clear, pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their sulphur +and arsenic malignity. What success it may have, time will discover.[55] + + [Footnote 55: Many years ago, Lord Dundonald revived the project, + with the proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar. + Unfortunately he did not profit by it. The coal thus charred is sold + as COKE, a very useful fuel for many purposes.] + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +3d August, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Sacrament, the +first time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and +conventicle; so sharp was the persecution. The parish churches were +filled with sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics +usurping the pulpits everywhere. Dr. Wild preached in a private house in +Fleet Street, where we had a great meeting of zealous Christians, who +were generally much more devout and religious than in our greatest +prosperity. In the afternoon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, +where I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechize, and so returned to my house. + +20th August, 1656. Was a confused election of Parliament called by the +Usurper. + +7th September, 1656. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbor and +friend, Sir. H. Newton and lady, now going to dwell at Warwick; and Mr. +Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visit me. + +14th September, 1656. Now was old Sir Henry Vane[56] sent to Carisbrook +Castle, in Wight, for a foolish book he published; the pretended +Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and sending many to prison. + + [Footnote 56: Evelyn means the younger Vane. This was "Vane, young + in years, but in sage counsel old," the nobleness and independence + of whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of + posterity, are not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by + Evelyn--his imprisonment by Cromwell, and his judicial murder by + Charles II. The foolish book to which Evelyn refers was an able and + fearless attack on Cromwell's government.] + +2d October, 1656. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens, and Mr. Pierce +(since head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a learned minister of Brington, +in Northamptonshire, and Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. + +2d November, 1656. There was now nothing practical preached, or that +pressed reformation of life, but high and speculative points and strains +that few understood, which left people very ignorant, and of no steady +principles, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much +envy and uncharity in the world; God of his mercy amend it! Now, indeed, +that I went at all to church, while these usurpers possessed the pulpits, +was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that, though the +minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly +ordained, and preached sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an +humble, harmless, and peaceable man. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +25th December, 1656. I went to London, to receive the Blessed Communion, +this holy festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so +full an assembly of devout and sober Christians. + +26th December, 1656. I invited some of my neighbors and tenants, +according to custom, and to preserve hospitality and charity. + +28th December, 1656. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which he +made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek and ostentation of +learning, to but little purpose. + +30th December, 1656. Dined with me Sir William Paston's son, Mr. Henshaw, +and Mr. Clayton. + +31st December, 1656. I begged God's blessing and mercies for his goodness +to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs in order. + +1st January, 1656-57. Having prayed with my family, and celebrated the +anniversary, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the year I was +entered into. + +7th January, 1657. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the Duke), +slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner +in the Tower; a most worthy and honored gentleman. + +10th January, 1657. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and +anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins; also the old Marquis of +Argyle, and another Scotch Earl. + +5th February, 1657. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's; he told me the +East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock of £400,000 in +India, and forty-eight men-of-war there: he spoke of their exact and just +keeping their books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could +possibly be lost, or defeated; that it was a vulgar error that the +Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and ammunition for their +money, though engaged in a cruel war, but that they used to merchandise +indifferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their +enemies. He laughed at our Committee of Trade, as composed of men wholly +ignorant of it, and how they were the ruin of commerce, by gratifying +some for private ends. + +10th February, 1657. I went to visit the governor of Havannah, a brave, +sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Captain Young, of Deptford, +when, after twenty years being in the Indies, and amassing great wealth, +his lady and whole family, except two sons, were burned, destroyed, and +taken within sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and wife, +perishing with immense treasure. One son, of about seventeen years old, +with his brother of one year old, were the only ones saved. The young +gentleman, about seventeen, was a well-complexioned youth, not +olive-colored; he spoke Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and +born in the Caraccas, 1,000 miles south of the equinoctial, near the +mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe before. The Governor was +an ancient gentleman of great courage, of the order of St. Jago, sorely +wounded in his arm, and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share +£100,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indifference, +and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went with them to Arundel +House, where they dined. They were now going back into Spain, having +obtained their liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude! + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +14th February, 1657. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary; next day came Mr. +Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt), younger son to the Countess of +Peterborough, to see his mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord of +Dover's daughters: so, after dinner, they all departed. + +5th March, 1657. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to me his +version of Gassendi's "_Vita Peiriskii_." + +25th March, 1657. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of "Cases of Conscience," +or "_Ductor Dubitantium_," now fitted for the press. + +The Protector Oliver, now affecting kingship, is petitioned to take the +title on him by all his newly-made sycophant lords, etc.; but dares not, +for fear of the fanatics, not thoroughly purged out of his rebel army. + +21st April, 1657. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in Wales, to see me. +I then waited on my Lord Hatton, with whom I dined: at my return, I +stepped into Bedlam, where I saw several poor, miserable creatures in +chains; one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited the +Charter House, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, now an old, neat, +fresh, solitary college for decayed gentlemen. It has a grove, bowling +green, garden, chapel, and a hall where they eat in common. I likewise +saw Christ Church and Hospital, a very good Gothic building; the hall, +school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up many hundreds of poor +children of both sexes; it is an exemplary charity. There is a large +picture at one end of the hall, representing the governors, founders, and +the institution. + +25th April, 1657. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent +Garden, going to my brother's, but without harm; the Lord be praised! + +1st May, 1657. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house; but I thank +God went away the next day toward Flanders. + +5th May, 1657. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Baynard, in +Surrey, a house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hired. This +is a very fair, noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the +goodliest avenues of oaks up to it that ever I saw: there is a pond of 60 +acres near it; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine painted +glass. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy. + +15th May, 1657. Lawrence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other +of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and +plantations. + +7th June, 1657. My fourth son was born, christened George (after my +grandfather); Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiated in the drawing-room. + +18th June, 1657. At Greenwich I saw a sort of cat[57] brought from the +East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in the +body like a monkey, and so footed; the ears and tail like a cat, only the +tail much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white; +with the tail it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into +trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its hair was woolly +like a lamb; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purred as does the +cat. + + [Footnote 57: This was probably the animal called a Mocock + (_maucaco_), since well known.] + +16th July, 1657. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's recommendation, I went to Eltham, +to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with the +patron. + +6th August, 1657. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed me the +application of the waywiser[58] to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, +and showing them by an index as we went on. It had three circles, one +pointing to the number of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1,000, +with all the subdivisions of quarters; very pretty and useful. + + [Footnote 58: Beckmann, in his "History of Inventions," has written + an account of the different instruments applied to carriages to + measure the distance they pass over. He places the first + introduction of the _adometer_ in England at about the end of the + seventeenth century, instead of about the middle, and states it to + have been the invention of an ingenious artist named Butterfield.] + +10th August, 1657. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against the +folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, called the +FIFTH-MONARCHY-MEN, pretending to set up the kingdom of Christ with the +sword. To this pass was this age arrived when we had no King in Israel. + +21st August, 1657. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the year +was very sickly in the country. + +1st September, 1657. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his melancholy seat +at Camberwell. He has a very pretty grove of oaks, and hedges of yew in +his garden, and a handsome row of tall elms before his court. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +15th September, 1657. Going to London with some company, we stepped in to +see a famous rope-dancer, called THE TURK. I saw even to astonishment the +agility with which he performed. He walked barefooted, taking hold by his +toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touching +it with his hands; he danced blind-fold on the high rope, and with a boy +of twelve years old tied to one of his feet about twenty feet beneath +him, dangling as he danced, yet he moved as nimbly as if it had been but +a feather. Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very high mast, +danced on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew down the +perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and arms +extended, with divers other activities.--I saw the hairy woman, twenty +years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was born at Augsburg, +in Germany. Her very eyebrows were combed upward, and all her _forehead_ +as thick and even as grows on any woman's head, neatly dressed; a very +long lock of hair out of each ear; she had also a most prolix beard, and +_moustachios_, with long locks growing on the middle of her nose, like an +Iceland dog exactly, the color of a bright brown, fine as well-dressed +flax. She was now married, and told me she had one child that was not +hairy, nor were any of her parents, or relations. She was very well +shaped, and played well on the harpsichord. + +17th September, 1657. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a relation +of mine; and thence to John Tradescant's museum, in which the chiefest +rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian, and other +nations' armor, shields, and weapons; some habits of curiously-colored +and wrought feathers, one from the phoenix wing, as tradition goes. +Other innumerable things there were printed in his catalogue by Mr. +Ashmole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeathed, and by +him designed as a gift to Oxford. + +19th October, 1657. I went to see divers gardens about London: returning, +I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian rattlesnakes alive, exceeding a +yard in length, small heads, slender tails, but in the middle nearly the +size of my leg; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as +loud as a child's rattle; this, by the collision of certain gristly skins +curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which they +give warning; a providential caution for other creatures to avoid them. +The Doctor tried their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately +killed: but their vigor must needs be much exhausted here, in another +climate, and kept only in a barrel of bran. + +22d October, 1657. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with whom I +had now contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to the +intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty abroad. + +26th November, 1657. I went to London, to a court of the East India +Company on its new union, in Merchant-Taylors' Hall, where was much +disorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers +obliged only by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might +pursue their private trade; but it was carried against them. Wednesday +was fixed on for a general court for election of officers, after a sermon +and prayers for good success. The Stock resolved on was £800,000. + +27th November, 1657. I took the oath at the East India House, subscribing +£500. + +2d December, 1657. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preached before +the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by +the example of Nehemiah, all the perfections of a trusty person in +public affairs, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending +with a prayer for God's blessing on the company and the undertaking. + +3d December, 1657. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3, against the +Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity of the sacrament of +baptism. This sect was now wonderfully spread. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +25th December, 1657. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate +Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel, on Micah vii. 2. +Sermon ended, as he was giving us the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was +surrounded with soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised +and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried away. It +fell to my share to be confined to a room in the house, where yet I was +permitted to dine with the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady +Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. In the afternoon, came +Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from Whitehall, to examine us one by +one; some they committed to the marshal, some to prison. When I came +before them, they took my name and abode, examined me why, contrary to +the ordinance made, that none should any longer observe the superstitious +time of the nativity (so esteemed by them), I durst offend, and +particularly be at common prayers, which they told me was but the mass in +English, and particularly pray for Charles Stuart; for which we had no +Scripture. I told them we did not pray for Charles Stuart, but for all +Christian kings, princes, and governors. They replied, in so doing we +prayed for the king of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist, with +other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much threatening; and, +finding no color to detain me, they dismissed me with much pity of my +ignorance. These were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spoke +spiteful things of our Lord's nativity. As we went up to receive the +Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets against us, as if they would +have shot us at the altar; but yet suffering us to finish the office of +Communion, as perhaps not having instructions what to do, in case they +found us in that action. So I got home late the next day; blessed be God! + +27th January, 1657-58. After six fits of a quartan ague, with which it +pleased God to visit him, died my dear son, Richard, to our +inexpressible grief and affliction, five years and three days old only, +but at that tender age a prodigy for wit and understanding; for beauty of +body, a very angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare hopes. +To give only a little taste of them, and thereby glory to God, who "out +of the mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises," +he had learned all his catechism; at two years and a half old, he could +perfectly read any of the English, Latin, French, or Gothic letters, +pronouncing the first three languages exactly. He had, before the fifth +year, or in that year, not only skill to read most written hands, but to +decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the +irregular; learned out "Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire +vocabulary of Latin and French primitives and words, could make congruous +syntax, turn English into Latin, and _vice versâ_, construe and prove +what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, +substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a +considerable progress in Comenius's "_Janua_"; began himself to write +legibly, and had a strong passion for Greek. The number of verses he +could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered of the parts of +plays, which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, +he asked what book it was, and, being told it was comedy, and too +difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious +application of fables and morals; for he had read Æsop; he had a +wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions +of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and +demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing were his applications of +Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God; he had learned all his +catechism early, and understood the historical part of the Bible and New +Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to redeem mankind, and how, +comprehending these necessaries himself, his godfathers were discharged +of their promise. + +These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age and experience, +considering the prettiness of his address and behavior, cannot but leave +impressions in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many days a +Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder; for Christ had said +that man should not live by bread alone, but by the Word of God. He would +of himself select the most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to +read to his maid during his sickness, telling her, when she pitied him, +that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaimed against the +vanities of the world, before he had seen any. Often he would desire +those who came to see him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, +to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully would he +receive admonition! how soon be reconciled! how indifferent, yet +continually cheerful! He would give grave advice to his brother, John, +bear with his impertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard of +or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how it was made; he +brought to us all such difficulties as he found in books, to be +expounded. He had learned by heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek, +which, on occasion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all +prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in anything he said or +did. The last time he had been at church (which was at Greenwich), I +asked him, according to custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two +good things, Father, said he, _bonum gratiæ_ and _bonum gloriæ_, with a +just account of what the preacher said. + +The day before he died, he called to me: and in a more serious manner +than usual, told me that for all I loved him so dearly I should give my +house, land, and all my fine things to his brother Jack, he should have +none of them; and, the next morning, when he found himself ill, and that +I persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he demanded whether he might +pray to God with his hands unjoined; and a little after, while in great +agony, whether he should not offend God by using his holy name so often +calling for ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical +ejaculations uttered of himself: "Sweet Jesus, save me, deliver me, +pardon my sins, let thine angels receive me!" So early knowledge, so much +piety and perfection! But thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for +himself, would not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future +fruits of this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a Child I never saw: +for such a child I bless God, in whose bosom he is! May I and mine +become as this little child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of +God in a white robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus, _fiat +voluntas tua_! Thou gavest him to us, thou hast taken him from us, +blessed be the name of the Lord! That I had anything acceptable to thee +was from thy grace alone, seeing from me he had nothing but sin, but that +thou hast pardoned! blessed be my God for ever, Amen. + +In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and maids that attended +him, and covered him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an +excessive hot fire in a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when +they found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I caused his +body to be coffined in lead, and deposited on the 30th at eight o'clock +that night in the church at Deptford, accompanied with divers of my +relations and neighbors, among whom I distributed rings with this motto: +"_Dominus abstulit_;" intending, God willing, to have him transported +with my own body to be interred in our dormitory in Wotton Church, in my +dear native county of Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with +my fathers, if God be gracious to me, and make me as fit for him as this +blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify this and all other my +afflictions, Amen. + +Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to the +grave. + +15th February, 1658. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it +pleased him also to take away from us this morning my youngest son, +George, now seven weeks languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending +in a dropsy. God's holy will be done! He was buried in Deptford Church, +the 17th following. + +25th February, 1658. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with other +friends, to visit and condole with us. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +7th March, 1658. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house on Luke +xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed the blessed Communion, of which +I participated. In the afternoon, Dr. Gunning, at Exeter House, +expounding part of the Creed. + +This had been the severest winter that any man alive had known in +England. The crows' feet were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice +inclosed both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boats. + +15th May, 1658, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical sickness, very +mortal this spring. + +20th May, 1658. I went to see a coach race in Hyde Park, and collationed +in Spring Garden. + +23d May, 1658. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached at Covent +Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the kingdom of God was, how pray +for it, etc. + +There was now a collection for persecuted and sequestered Ministers of +the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day! The +Church now in dens and caves of the earth. + +31st May, 1658. I went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose son, Mr. +Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but +by one voice; but that holy martyr, Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die +without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they +called it. A dangerous, treacherous time! + +2d June, 1658. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain, the season as +cold as winter, the wind northerly near six months. + +3d June, 1658. A large whale was taken between my land abutting on the +Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by +water, horse, coach, and on foot, from London, and all parts. It appeared +first below Greenwich at low water, for at high water it would have +destroyed all the boats, but lying now in shallow water encompassed with +boats, after a long conflict, it was killed with a harping iron, struck +in the head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tunnels; and +after a horrid groan, it ran quite on shore, and died. Its length was +fifty-eight feet, height sixteen; black skinned, like coach leather; very +small eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a peaked snout and a mouth +so wide, that divers men might have stood upright in it; no teeth, but +sucked the slime only as through a grate of that bone which we call +whalebone; the throat yet so narrow, as would not have admitted the least +of fishes. The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang downward from the +upper jaw, and are hairy toward the ends and bottom within side: all of +it prodigious; but in nothing more wonderful than that an animal of so +great a bulk should be nourished only by slime through those grates. + +8th June, 1658. That excellent preacher and holy man, Dr. Hewer, was +martyred for having intelligence with his Majesty, through the Lord +Marquis of Ormond. + +9th June, 1658. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, +whereof that of the Venetian Senators was one of the best of Titian's and +another of Andrea del Sarto, viz, a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old +Woman; a St. Catherine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Vandyck; a +Nativity of Georgioni; the last of our blessed Kings (Charles I.), and +the Duke of York, by Lely, a Rosary by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, +and several more. This was in Suffolk House: the new front toward the +gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a too massy and clumsy pair +of stairs of stone, without any neat invention. + +10th June, 1658. I went to see the Medical Garden at Westminster, well +stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skillful botanist. + +26th June, 1658. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +3d July, 1658. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, and Mr. +Ashmole, founder of the Oxford repository of rarities, with divers +doctors of physic and virtuosos. + +15th July, 1658. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir Robert +Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby, of Parham. + +3d August, 1658. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is +excellent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house, +and removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric, though not +comparable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all the +powder mills. + +5th August, 1658. We went to Squirries to visit my Cousin Leech, daughter +to Sir John; a pretty, finely wooded, well watered seat, the stables +good, the house old, but convenient. 6th. Returned to Wotton. + +10th August, 1658. I dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the +famous Sir Walter. + +14th August, 1658. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged match at +bowls for £10, which we won. + +18th August, 1658. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle, in that +tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest trees at Sayes Court, and +did so much mischief all over England. It continued the whole night; +and, till three in the afternoon of the next day, in the southwest, and +destroyed all our winter fruit. + +3d September, 1658. Died that arch-rebel, Oliver Cromwell, called +Protector. + +16th September, 1658. Was published my translation of St. Chrysostom on +"Education of Children," which I dedicated to both my brothers to comfort +them on the loss of their children. + +21st September, 1658. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited me to +dinner. + +26th September, 1658. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv. 24; a +Quaker would have disputed with him. In the afternoon, we heard Dr. +Hacket (since Bishop of Litchfield) at Cheam, where the family of the +Lumleys lie buried. + +27th September, 1658. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews, a +fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the first orange garden +in England, being now overgrown trees, planted in the ground, and secured +in winter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely +watered, lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pomegranates +bear here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence, to Carshalton, +excellently watered, and capable of being made a most delicious seat, +being on the sweet downs, and a champaign about it full planted with +walnut and cherry trees, which afford a considerable rent. + +Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the shepherds, I found that +digging about the bottom near Sir Christopher Buckle's,[59] near +Banstead, divers medals have been found, both copper and silver, with +foundations of houses, urns, etc. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city of +the Romans. See Antonine's "Itineraries." + + [Footnote 59: Not far from the course of the Roman Road from + Chichester, through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking + churchyard. Considerable remains of a Roman building have since been + found on Waltonheath, south of this house.] + +29th September, 1658. I returned home, after a ten weeks' absence. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +2d October, 1658. I went to London, to receive the Holy Sacrament. + +On the 3d, Dr. Wild preached in a private place on Isaiah i. 4, showing +the parallel between the sins of Israel and those of England. In the +afternoon, Mr. Hall (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor. vi. 2, +of the dignity of the Saints; a most excellent discourse. + +4th October, 1658. I dined with the Holland ambassador, at Derby House: +returning, I diverted to see a very WHITE RAVEN, bred in Cumberland; also +a porcupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, of which see Claudian; +it was headed like a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like +a bear. + +19th October, 1658. I was summoned to London, by the commissioners for +new buildings; afterward, to the commission of sewers; but because there +was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted +without a king, I got to be excused, and returned home. + +22d October, 1658. Saw the superb funeral of the protector. He was +carried from Somerset House in a velvet bed of state, drawn by six +horses, housed with the same; the pall held by his new lords; Oliver +lying in effigy, in royal robes, and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and +globe, like a king. The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers +of the army; the imperial banners, achievements, etc., by the heralds in +their coats; a rich caparisoned horse, embroidered all over with gold; a +knight of honor, armed _cap-a-pie_, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, +and innumerable mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to +Westminster: but it was the most joyful funeral I ever saw; for there +were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a +barbarous noise, drinking and taking tobacco in the streets as they went. + +I returned not home till the 17th of November. + +I was summoned again to London by the commissioners for new foundations +to be erected within such a distance of London. + +6th December, 1658. Now was published my "French Gardener," the first and +best of the kind that introduced the use of the olitory garden to any +purpose. + +23d December, 1658. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my cousin, +George Tuke's, at Cressing Temple, in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood. + +25th December, 1658. Here was no public service, but what we privately +used. I blessed God for his mercies the year past; and 1st of January, +begged a continuance of them. Thus, for three Sundays, by reason of the +incumbent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, though there +was a chapel in the house. + +17th January, 1659. Our old vicar preached, taking leave of the parish in +a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the city. + +24th March, 1659. I went to London, to speak to the patron, Alderman +Cuttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church. + +5th April, 1659. Came the Earl of Northampton and the famous painter, Mr. +Wright, to visit me. + +10th April, 1659. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the living of +our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon preparatory to the Holy +Sacrament. + +25th April, 1659. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of the +public; the new protector, Richard, slighted; several pretenders and +parties strive for the government: all anarchy and confusion; Lord have +mercy on us! + +5th May, 1659. I went to visit my brother in London; and next day, to see +a new opera, after the Italian way, in recitative music and scenes, much +inferior to the Italian composure and magnificence; but it was prodigious +that in a time of such public consternation such a vanity should be kept +up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company, could not decently +resist the going to see it, though my heart smote me for it. + +7th May, 1659. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his lady to visit me, +and stayed the whole afternoon. + +12th May, 1659. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the +revolutions, etc. + +19th May, 1659. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a +Scotch Lord and learned: also my brother and his lady, Lord Berkeley and +his lady, Mrs. Shirley, and the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,[60] and other +friends. + + [Footnote 60: Afterward one of Charles II.'s mistresses.] + +23d May, 1659. I went to Rookwood, and dined with Sir William Hicks, +where was a great feast and much company. It is a melancholy old house, +environed with trees and rooks. + +26th May, 1659. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir William +Ducie, and Sir George Pott's son of Norfolk. + +29th May, 1659. The nation was now in extreme confusion and unsettled, +between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church of England +breathing as it were her last; so sad a face of things had overspread us. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +7th June, 1659. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see the +foundations now laying for a long street and buildings in Hatton Garden, +designed for a little town, lately an ample garden. + +1st September, 1659. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle, son to the Earl +of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philosophic and mathematic college. + +15th September, 1659. Came to see me Mr. Brereton,[61] a very learned +gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. +Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk. + + [Footnote 61: William, afterward third Lord Brereton; an + accomplished and able man, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the + Royal Society. He died in 1679.] + +30th September, 1659. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel +Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveler and water +drinker. + +10th October, 1659. I came with my wife and family to London: took +lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for the +winter, my son being very unwell. + +11th October, 1659. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since +secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty +gentleman. + +The Army now turned out the Parliament. We had now no government in the +nation: all in confusion; no magistrate either owned or pretended; but +the soldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on us, and +settle us! + +17th October, 1659. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel House, who gave me a +fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design of a palace there. + +21st October, 1659. A private fast was kept by the Church of England +Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of his judgments, with +devout prayers for his mercy to our calamitous Church. + +7th November, 1659. Was published my bold "Apology for the King" in this +time of danger, when it was capital to speak or write in favor of him. It +was twice printed; so universally it took. + +9th November, 1659. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity of our +Church. + +12th November, 1659. I went to see the several drugs for the confection +of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an ingenious +apothecary had not only prepared and ranged on a large and very long +table, but covered every ingredient with a sheet of paper, on which was +very lively painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it +plant, flower, animal, or other exotic drug. + +15th November, 1659. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a manner +acknowledge that his nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out of +gratitude, but collaterally as it relates to their gain, or security; and +therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the +banished King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though an +ingenuous confession. + +18th November, 1659. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and preached +on Phil. ii. 12, 13. + +24th November, 1659. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the +forty-first wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. + +26th November, 1659. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers +learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, +and others. + +9th December, 1659. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being our fast day, Dr. +Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild, and other +devout and learned divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note: +Most of them since made bishops. + +10th December, 1659. I treated privately with Colonel Morley, then +Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power, concerning +delivering it to the King, and the bringing of him in, to the great +hazard of my life, but the Colonel had been my schoolfellow, and I knew +would not betray me. + +12th December, 1659. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty, pursuing +the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his brother-in-law, Fay, +Governor of Portsmouth. + +18th December, 1659. Preached that famous divine, Dr. Sanderson (since +Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on Jer. xxx. 13, concerning the +evil of forsaking God. + +29th December, 1659. Came my Lord Count Arundel, of Wardour, to visit me. +I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. + +31st December, 1659. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God +for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year. + +ANNUS MIRABILIS, January 1st, 1659-60. Begging God's blessings for the +following year, I went to Exeter Chapel, when Mr. Gunning began the year +on Galatians iv. 3-7, showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood so +early for us. + +12th January, 1660. Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his +Majesty. + +22d January, 1660. I went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley. After +dinner I discoursed with him; but he was very jealous, and would not +believe that Monk came in to do the King any service; I told him that he +might do it without him, and have all the honor. He was still doubtful, +and would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +3d February, 1660. Kept the Fast. General Monk came now to London out of +Scotland; but no man knew what he would do or declare; yet he was met on +his way by the gentlemen of all the counties which he passed with +petitions that he would recall the old long-interrupted Parliament, and +settle the nation in some order, being at this time in most prodigious +confusion, and under no government, everybody expecting what would be +next and what he would do. + +10th February, 1660. Now were the gates of the city broken down by +General Monk; which exceedingly exasperated the city, the soldiers +marching up and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the +fanatics put out of their posts and sent out of town. + +11th February, 1660. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and +wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreme power, and +having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission, +repenting of what he had done to the city, and where he and his forces +were quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of robbers, +and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so called as +retaining some few rotten members of the other) being dissolved; and for +joy whereof were many thousands of rumps roasted publicly in the streets +at the bonfires this night, with ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. +This was the first good omen. + +From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed with a kind of +double tertian, the cruel effects of the spleen and other distempers, in +that extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, +were in great doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to deliver me out +of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks: going to church +the 8th, and receiving the blessed eucharist. + +During this sickness came divers of my relations and friends to visit me, +and it retarded my going into the country longer than I intended; +however, I wrote and printed a letter in defense of his Majesty,[62] +against a wicked forged paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels to +defame his Majesty's person and virtues and render him odious, now when +everybody was in hope and expectation of the General and Parliament +recalling him, and establishing the Government on its ancient and right +basis. The doing this toward the decline of my sickness, and sitting up +long in my bed, had caused a small relapse, out of which it yet pleased +God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go into the country, +which I did to my sweet and native air at Wotton. + + [Footnote 62: With the title of "The Late News, or Message from + Brussels Unmasked." This, and the pamphlet which gave rise to it, + are reprinted in "Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings."] + +3d May, 1660. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious +declaration and applications to the Parliament, General, and people, and +their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloody and +unreasonable rebellion of near twenty years. Praised be forever the Lord +of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, because his mercy endureth +forever. + +8th May, 1660. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in London, etc. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +9th May, 1660. I was desired and designed to accompany my Lord Berkeley +with the public address of the Parliament, General, etc., to the King, +and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he being +now at Breda; but I was yet so weak, I could not make that journey by +sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to London to +excuse myself, returning the 10th, having yet received a gracious message +from his Majesty by Major Scot and Colonel Tuke. + +24th May, 1660. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his pardon, +now too late, seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by +which, if he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the +same ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a +post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and fear kept him +from that blessing and honor. I addressed him to Lord Mordaunt, then in +great favor, for his pardon, which he obtained at the cost of £1,000, as +I heard. Oh, the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not +undergo of danger in this negotiation, to have brought him over to his +Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in his hands! + +29th May, 1660. This day, his Majesty, Charles II. came to London, after +a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and +Church, being seventeen years. This was also his birthday, and with a +triumph of above 20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords, and +shouting with inexpressible joy; the ways strewn with flowers, the bells +ringing, the streets hung with tapestry, fountains running with wine; the +Mayor, Aldermen, and all the companies, in their liveries, chains of +gold, and banners; Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and +velvet; the windows and balconies, all set with ladies; trumpets, music, +and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Rochester, so as they +were seven hours in passing the city, even from two in the afternoon till +nine at night. + +I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God. And all this was +done without one drop of blood shed, and by that very army which rebelled +against him: but it was the Lord's doing, for such a restoration was +never mentioned in any history, ancient or modern, since the return of +the Jews from their Babylonish captivity; nor so joyful a day and so +bright ever seen in this nation, this happening when to expect or effect +it was past all human policy. + +4th June, 1660. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne's landing at +Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which I was to deliver at +Whitehall, not as yet presenting myself to his Majesty, by reason of the +infinite concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, +to see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that he had scarce +leisure to eat for some days, coming as they did from all parts of the +nation; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, +would have none kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of people. + +Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his Majesty, when very +few noblemen were with him, and kissed his hands, being very graciously +received. I then returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came not +till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which time he kept +up in his chapel the Liturgy and Offices of the Church of England, to his +no small honor, and in a time when it was so low, and as many thought +utterly lost, that in various controversies both with Papists and +Sectaries, our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church, +from his chapel and congregation. + +I was all this week to and fro at court about business. + +16th June, 1660. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make +their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pronouncing the +harangue with great eloquence. + +18th June, 1660. I proposed the embassy to Constantinople for Mr. +Henshaw; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in. + +Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the Rebellion were now +daily brought in, and restored upon proclamation; as plate, hangings, +pictures, etc. + +22d June, 1660. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and +chief towns in all the three nations) presented their congratulatory +address. It was carried by my Lord Northampton. + +30th June, 1660. The Sussex gentlemen presented their address, to which +was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his Majesty's hand, who was +pleased to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance, +and speaking very graciously to me. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +3d July, 1660. I went to Hyde Park, where was his Majesty, and abundance +of gallantry. + +4th July, 1660. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the House of Lords, +in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at +Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men, that +suffered in cold blood, after articles of rendition. + +5th July, 1660. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and splendor as +any earthly prince could do to the great city feast, the first they had +invited him to since his return; but the exceeding rain which fell all +that day much eclipsed its lustres. This was at Guildhall, and there was +also all the Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The streets were +adorned with pageants, at immense cost. + +6th July, 1660. His Majesty began first to TOUCH FOR THE EVIL! according +to custom, thus: his Majesty sitting under his state in the banqueting +house, the chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought, or led, up to the +throne, where they kneeling, the King strokes their faces, or cheeks with +both his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain in his formalities +says, "He put his hands upon them, and he healed them." This is said to +every one in particular. When they have all been touched, they come up +again in the same order, and the other chaplain kneeling, and having +angel gold[63] strung on white ribbon on his arm, delivers them one by +one to his Majesty, who puts them about the necks of the touched as they +pass, while the first chaplain repeats, "That is the true light who came +into the world." Then follows, an Epistle (as at first a Gospel) with the +Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration; lastly the blessing; +and then the Lord Chamberlain and the Comptroller of the Household bring +a basin, ewer, and towel, for his Majesty to wash. + + [Footnote 63: Pieces of money, so called from the figure of an angel + on them.] + +The King received a congratulatory address from the city of Cologne, in +Germany, where he had been some time in his exile; his Majesty saying +they were the best people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him +that he ever met with. I recommended Monsieur Messary to be Judge +Advocate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earl of +St. Albans; and saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend, my Lord +Ossory, son to the Marquis of Ormond, after many years' absence returned +home. + +8th July, 1660. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5, concerning +Christian circumspection. From henceforth, was the Liturgy publicly used +in our churches, whence it had been for so many years banished. + +15th July, 1660. Came Sir George Carteret and lady to visit us: he was +now Treasurer of the Navy. + +28th July, 1660. I heard his Majesty's speech in the Lords' House, on +passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage; restoration of my Lord Ormond +to his estate in Ireland; concerning the commission of sewers, and +continuance of the excise. In the afternoon I saluted my old friend, the +Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). He +presented several Irish divines to be promoted as Bishops in that +kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdoms being now almost worn +out, and the Sees vacant. + +31st July, 1660. I went to visit Sir Philip Warwick, now secretary to the +Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. + +19th August, 1660. Our vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles to the +congregation, the national assemblies beginning now to settle, and +wanting instruction. + +23d August, 1660. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish +Lords, to see my garden. + +25th August, 1660. Colonel Spencer, colonel of a regiment of horse in our +county of Kent, sent to me, and intreated that I would take a commission +for a troop of horse, and that I would nominate my lieutenant and +ensigns; I thanked him for the honor intended me; but would by no means +undertake the trouble. + +4th September, 1660. I was invited to an ordination by the Bishop of +Bangor, in Henry VII.'s chapel, Westminster, and afterward saw the +audience of an Envoyée from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his +Majesty's return. + +5th September, 1660. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyée of the +King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, etc. + +7th September, 1660. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his +pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence, to Kensington, to +visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that evening. + +13th September, 1660. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, monkeys +and apes dance, and do other feats of activity on the high rope; they +were gallantly clad _á la monde_, went upright, saluted the company, +bowing and pulling off their hats; they saluted one another with as good +a grace as if instructed by a dancing master; they turned heels over head +with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any; also, with lighted +candles in their hands, and on their heads, without extinguishing them, +and with vessels of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian +wench dance, and perform all the tricks on the high rope to admiration; +all the Court went to see her. Likewise, here was a man who took up a +piece of iron cannon of about 400lb. weight with the hair of his head +only. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +17th September, 1660. Went to London, to see the splendid entry of the +Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spain; he was general of +the Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied with divers +great persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train +consisted of seventeen coaches, with six horses of his own, besides a +great number of English, etc. Greater bravery had I never seen. He was +received in the Banqueting House, in exceeding state, all the great +officers of Court attending. + +23d September, 1660. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duke +of Gloucester died of the smallpox, in the prime of youth, and a prince +of extraordinary hopes. + +27th September, 1660. The King received the merchant's addresses in his +closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to keep Jamaica, +choosing Sir Edward Massey Governor. In the afternoon, the Danish +Ambassador's condolences were presented, on the death of the Duke of +Gloucester. This evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince +of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. + +6th October, 1660. I paid the great tax of poll money, levied for +disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire £10, and one +shilling for every servant in my house. + +7th October, 1660. There dined with me a French count, with Sir George +Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queen-Mother, +to break the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. +The Queen would fain have undone it; but it seems matters were +reconciled, on great offers of the Chancellor's to befriend the Queen, +who was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affairs +go through his hands. + +11th October, 1660. The regicides who sat on the life of our late King, +were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before a commission of oyer and +terminer. + +14th October, 1660. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, +were executed. + +17th October, 1660. Scot, Scroop, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of +their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of the place where they put +to death their natural prince, and in the presence of the King his son, +whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their +quarters, mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought from the +gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculous providence of God! + +28th October, 1660. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +29th October, 1660. Going to London, my Lord Mayor's show stopped me in +Cheapside; one of the pageants represented a great wood, with the royal +oak, and history of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. + +31st October, 1660. Arrived now to my fortieth year, I rendered to +Almighty God my due and hearty thanks. + +1st November, 1660. I went with some of my relations to Court, to show +them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of rarities; the rare miniatures of +Peter Oliver, after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I +infinitely esteem; also, that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done +in enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and +intaglios, especially a medallion of Cæsar, as broad as my hand; +likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a landscape of needlework, +formerly presented by the Dutch to King Charles I. Here I saw a vast book +of maps, in a volume near four yards large; a curious ship model; and, +among the clocks, one that showed the rising and setting of the sun in +the zodiac; the sun represented by a face and rays of gold, upon an azure +sky, observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and setting behind a +landscape of hills,--the work of our famous Fromantil,--and several other +rarities. + +3d October, 1660. Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence she had +been banished for almost twenty years; together with her illustrious +daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers princes and noblemen, +accompanying them. + +15th October, 1660. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand. + +20th October, 1660. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller's of the Green +Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the Court diet, and +settling of his Majesty's household. + +23d October, 1660. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess +Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers +of my old friends and acquaintances abroad; his Majesty carrying my wife +to salute the Queen and Princess, and then led her into his closet, and +with his own hands showed her divers curiosities. + +25th October, 1660. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke ii. 14, +of the glory to be given God for all his mercies, especially for +restoring the Church and government; now the service was performed with +music, voices, etc., as formerly. + +27th November, 1660. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green Cloth] +by the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the land at Sayes Court, on +which I had pretense, and to make his report. + +6th December, 1660. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. +Now were presented to his Majesty those two rare pieces of drollery, or +rather a Dutch Kitchen, painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be +distinguished from enamel. I was also shown divers rich jewels and +crystal vases; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian's master; Christ in +the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci; two incomparable heads, by Holbein; the +Queen-Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life; an exquisite +piece of carving; two unicorn's horns, etc. This in the closet. + +13th December, 1660. I presented my son, John, to the Queen-Mother, who +kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. + +14th December, 1660. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of +Ormond, and Countess of Guildford, all of whom we had known abroad in +exile. + +18th December, 1660. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, +grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had +recommended him as secretary. + +21st December, 1660. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the +smallpox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of the whole +Court. + +22d December, 1660. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being now +newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's intimate +acquaintance when she waited on the Princess of Orange; she was now at +her father's, at Worcester House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand, +as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Countess of +Northumberland. This was a strange change--can it succeed well?--I spent +the evening at St. James's, whither the Princess Henrietta was retired +during the fatal sickness of her sister, the Princess of Orange, now come +over to salute the King her brother. The Princess gave my wife an +extraordinary compliment and gracious acceptance, for the "Character"[64] +she had presented her the day before, and which was afterward printed. + + [Footnote 64: "A Character of England," reprinted in Evelyn's + "Miscellaneous Writings," pp. 141-67.] + +25th December, 1660. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, Clerk of his +Majesty's Closet, and my dear friend, now Dean of Westminster, on Luke +ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach made in the public joy by the lamented +death of the Princess. + +30th December, 1660. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the Green +Cloth. + +31st December, 1660. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies to +myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year. + +2d January, 1661. The Queen-Mother, with the Princess Henrietta, began +her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her return into France. + +5th January, 1661. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom I +had been well acquainted abroad. + +6th January, 1661. Dr. Allestree preached at the Abbey, after which four +Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich, ... + +This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some FIFTH-MONARCHY +ENTHUSIASTS. Some of them were examined at the Council the next day; but +could say nothing to extenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal. + +I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for one of the Council), +by suffrage of the rest of the members, a Fellow of the Philosophic +Society now meeting at Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers +learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's return; +but it had been begun some years before at Oxford, and was continued with +interruption here in London during the Rebellion. + +There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some were slain. + +16th January, 1661. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examined +the Torricellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, +and had recommended to me the publishing what I had written of +Chalcography. + +25th January, 1661. After divers years since I had seen any play, I went +to see acted "The Scornful Lady," at a new theater in Lincoln's-Inn +Fields. + +30th January, 1661. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to +deplore the sins which had so long provoked God against this afflicted +church and people, ordered by Parliament to be annually celebrated to +expiate the guilt of the execrable murder of the late King. + +This day (Oh, the stupendous and inscrutable judgments of God!) were the +carcasses of those arch-rebels, Cromwell, Bradshawe (the judge who +condemned his Majesty), and Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged +out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn, and +hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning till six at night, +and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument in a deep pit; +thousands of people who had seen them in all their pride being +spectators. Look back at October 22, 1658,[65] and be astonished! and +fear God and honor the King; but meddle not with them who are given to +change! + + [Footnote 65: The entry in the "Diary" describing the Protector's + funeral.] + +6th February, 1661. To London, to our Society, where I gave notice of the +visit of the Danish Ambassador-Extraordinary, and was ordered to return +him their acceptance of that honor, and to invite him the next meeting +day. + +10th February, 1661. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-house, on Matthew vi. +33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after sermon, the Bishop (Dr. +Wren) gave us the blessing, very pontifically. + +13th February, 1661. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at +Gresham College, where were shown him various experiments in vacuo, and +other curiosities. + +21st February, 1661. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in _mezzo +tinto_. + +26th February, 1661. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at Parson's Green. + +27th February, 1661. Ash Wednesday. Preached before the King the Bishop +of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25, concerning charity and +forgiveness. + +8th March, 1661. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and delivered to him the +state of my concernment at Sayes Court. + +9th March, 1661. I went with that excellent person and philosopher, Sir +Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw divers effects of +the eolipile for weighing air. + +13th March, 1661. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. Browne's pretense to the +Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to which, as having been about +forty years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes +of every Fellow except one; but the statutes of the house being so that, +unless every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, who is +the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomination +to Sir T. Clayton, resident there, and the Physic Professor: for which I +was not at all displeased, because, though Sir Richard missed it by much +ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being no Fellow), yet it +would have hindered Sir Richard from attending at Court to settle his +greater concerns, and so have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined +to have passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at that +time, for many reasons. So I took leave of his Grace, who was formerly +Lord Treasurer in the reign of Charles I. + +This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed me, with his own hands, the new way +of graving, called _mezzo tinto_, which afterward, by his permission, I +published in my "History of Chalcography"; this set so many artists on +work, that they soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to, +emulating the tenderest miniatures. + +Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of Teneriffe, in the +Great Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural +things reported of that island. + +I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for France, as sent by +his Majesty to condole the death of that great Minister and politician, +Count Mazarine. + +29th March, 1661. Dr. Heylin (author of the "Geography") preached at the +Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and charity; he was, I +think, at this time quite dark, and so had been for some years. + +31st March, 1661. This night, his Majesty promised to make my wife Lady +of the Jewels (a very honorable charge) to the future Queen (but which he +never performed). + +1st April, 1661. I dined with that great mathematician and virtuoso, +Monsieur Zulichem, inventor of the pendule clock, and discoverer of the +phenomenon of Saturn's annulus: he was elected into our Society. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +19th April, 1661. To London, and saw the bathing and rest of the +ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the coronation; it +was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster. I might have received this +honor; but declined it. The rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at +Whitehall, when their swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop +delivered them. + +22d April, 1661. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from the Tower +of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in the Banqueting House create six +Earls, and as many Barons, viz: + +Edward Lord Hyde, Lord Chancellor, Earl of Clarendon; supported by the +Earls of Northumberland and Sussex; the Earl of Bedford carried the cap +and coronet, the Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the +mantle. + + Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex. + Brudenell, Cardigan; + Valentia, Anglesea; + Greenvill, Bath; and + Howard, Earl of Carlisle. + +The Barons were: Denzille Holles; Cornwallis; Booth; Townsend; Cooper; +Crew; who were led up by several Peers, with Garter and officers of arms +before them; when, after obedience on their several approaches to the +throne, their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms, which being +received by the Lord Chamberlain, and delivered to his Majesty, and by +him to the Secretary of State, were read, and then again delivered to his +Majesty, and by him to the several Lords created; they were then robed, +their coronets and collars put on by his Majesty, and they were placed in +rank on both sides of the state and throne; but the Barons put off their +caps and circles, and held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on +their coronets, as cousins to the King. + +I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several archtriumphals +built in the streets at several eminent places through which his Majesty +was next day to pass, some of which, though temporary, and to stand but +one year, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. + +23d April, 1661. Was the coronation of his Majesty Charles II. in the +Abbey-Church of Westminster; at all which ceremony I was present. The +King and his Nobility went to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount +Mordaunt part of the way; this was on Sunday, the 22d; but indeed his +Majesty went not till early this morning, and proceeded from thence to +Westminster in this order: + +First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of the Chamber. +136 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each of whom had two, most +richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Sergeant Porter. Sewers of the +Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery. Clerk of the Signet. +Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of the Council, of the Parliament, and +of the Crown. Chaplains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King's +Advocates and Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the Chancery. +Puisne Sergeants. King's Attorney and Solicitor. King's eldest Sergeant. +Secretaries of the French and Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers. Daily +Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the +body, 4. Masters of standing offices, being no Counsellors, viz, of the +Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, Armory, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. +Chamberlain of the Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord +Chief-Baron. Lord Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. +Lord Chief-Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. +Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the +noblest show of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight +Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the Jewels. Lords of the +Privy Council. Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. +Trumpets. Sergeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons. Two +Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds. Earls. Lord Chamberlain of +the Household. Two Heralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and +Norroy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons +representing the Dukes of Normandy and Acquitaine, viz, Sir Richard +Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastic habits of the time. +Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord Mayor of London. The Duke of York alone +(the rest by twos). Lord High Constable of England. Lord Great +Chamberlain of England. The sword borne by the Earl Marshal of England. +The KING, in royal robes and equipage. Afterward, followed equerries, +footmen, gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse, leading a horse +richly caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain +of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. The troop of Volunteers, with +many other officers and gentlemen. + +This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as embroidery, velvet, cloth +of gold and silver, and jewels, could make them and their prancing +horses, proceeded through the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung +with rich tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies; the London +militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with their banners +and loud music, ranked in their orders; the fountains running wine, bells +ringing, with speeches made at the several triumphal arches; at that of +the Temple Bar (near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by the +Bailiff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a speech. Thence, +with joyful acclamations, his Majesty passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at +night. + +The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westminster Abbey. +When his Majesty was entered, the Dean and Prebendaries brought all the +regalia, and delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the King, +who met them at the west door of the church, singing an anthem, to the +choir. Then, came the Peers, in their robes, and coronets in their hands, +till his Majesty was placed on a throne elevated before the altar. +Afterward, the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury being sick) +went to every side of the throne to present the King to the people, +asking if they would have him for their King, and do him homage; at this, +they shouted four times "God save King Charles II!" Then, an anthem was +sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, went up to the altar, and +he offered a pall and a pound of gold. Afterward, he sat down in another +chair during the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of +Worcester. + +After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to maintain the +religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The hymn _Véni S. Sp._ +followed, and then the Litany by two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of +Canterbury, present, but much indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your +hearts"; at which, the King rose up, and put off his robes and upper +garments, and was in a waistcoat so opened in divers places, that the +Archbishop might commodiously anoint him, first in the palms of his +hands, when an anthem was sung, and a prayer read; then, his breast and +between the shoulders, bending of both arms; and, lastly, on the crown of +the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anointing; this done, +the Dean closed and buttoned up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif +put on, and the cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a super-tunic +of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, spurs, and the +sword; a prayer being first said over it by the Archbishop on the altar, +before it was girt on by the Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, +etc. Then, the Archbishop placed the crown imperial on the altar, prayed +over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, at which all the Peers put on +their coronets. Anthems, and rare music, with lutes, viols, trumpets, +organs, and voices, were then heard, and the Archbishop put a ring on his +Majesty's finger. The King next offered his sword on the altar, which +being redeemed, was drawn, and borne before him. Then, the Archbishop +delivered him the sceptre, with the dove in one hand, and, in the other, +the sceptre with the globe. The King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounced +the blessing. His Majesty then ascending again his royal throne, while +_Te Deum_ was singing, all the Peers did their homage, by every one +touching his crown. The Archbishop, and the rest of the Bishops, first +kissing the King; who received the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet +with the crown imperial on his head, and accompanied with all the +nobility in the former order, he went on foot upon blue cloth, which was +spread and reached from the west door of the Abbey to Westminster stairs, +when he took water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall where was +extraordinary feasting. + +24th April, 1661. I presented his Majesty with his "Panegyric"[66] in the +Privy Chamber, which he was pleased to accept most graciously; I gave +copies to the Lord Chancellor, and most of the noblemen who came to me +for it. I dined at the Marquis of Ormond's where was a magnificent feast, +and many great persons. + + [Footnote 66: A poem which Evelyn had composed on his Majesty's + Coronation; the 23d of April, 1661, being St. George's day.] + +1st May, 1661. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, where was his Majesty +and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being now a +time of universal festivity and joy. + +2d May, 1661. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my title to +Sayes Court. + +3d May, 1661. I went to see the wonderful engine for weaving silk +stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxford scholar forty +years since; and I returned by Fromantil's, the famous clockmaker, to see +some pendules, Monsieur Zulichem being with us. + +This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert Murray, Sir +Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zulichem, and Bull (all of them of our Society, +and excellent mathematicians), to show his Majesty, who was present, +Saturn's annulus, as some thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with his +_balteus_ (as that learned gentleman had published), very near eclipsed +by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis; also, Jupiter and satellites, +through his Majesty's great telescope, drawing thirty-five feet; on which +were divers discourses. + +8th May, 1661. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown on, and +all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the Parliament now newly +chosen (the old one being dissolved); and, that evening, declared in +council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal. + +9th May, 1661. At Sir Robert Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor +of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of several mathematical +subjects. + +11th May, 1661. My wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna she had +copied in miniature from P. Oliver's painting, after Raphael, which she +wrought with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infinitely +pleased with it, and caused it to be placed in his cabinet among his best +paintings. + +13th May, 1661. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of +scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the University in Latin, +Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and extemporary verses, as +wonderfully astonished me in such youths, with such readiness and wit, +some of them not above twelve or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that +what they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain, or do not +improve more considerably when they come to be men, though many of them +do; and no less is to be blamed their odd pronouncing of Latin, so that +out of England none were able to understand, or endure it. The +examinants, or posers, were, Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge; +Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, Oxford; Dr. Pierson; Dr. Allestree, Dean +of Westminster, and any that would. + +14th May, 1661. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me concerning +several particulars relating to our Society, and the planet Saturn, etc., +as he sat at supper in the withdrawing-room to his bedchamber. + +16th May, 1661. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburg, who +continued his feast near nine whole hours, according to the custom of his +country, though there was no great excess of drinking, no man being +obliged to take more than he liked. + +22d May, 1661. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in +divers places in London. Oh, prodigious change! + +29th May, 1661. This was the first anniversary appointed by act of +Parliament to be observed as a day of general thanksgiving for the +miraculous restoration of his Majesty: our vicar preaching on Psalm +cxviii. 24, requiring us to be thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had +cause. + +4th June, 1661. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's surveyor, to take +an account of what grounds I challenged at Sayes Court. + +27th June, 1661. I saw the Portugal ambassador at dinner with his Majesty +in state, where was excellent music. + +2d July, 1661. I went to see the New Spring-Garden, at Lambeth, a +prettily contrived plantation. + +[Sidenote: DEPTFORD] + +19th July, 1661. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the water dock +at Deptford, in which our curator continued half an hour under water; it +was made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable. + +3d August, 1661. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's +household to visit me. + +9th August, 1661. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant and +_humilis_, which contracted with the least touch of the sun through a +burning glass, though it rises and opens only when it shines on it. + +I first saw the famous Queen Pine brought from Barbadoes, and presented +to his Majesty; but the first that were ever seen in England were those +sent to Cromwell four years since. + +I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excelled in clocks +and pendules, especially one that had innumerable motions, and played +nine or ten tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts: +which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. He had +also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice pictures, and +other curiosities. Thence, we went to that famous mountebank, Jo. +Punteus. + +Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his "Discourse of the +Vegetation of Plants"; and Mr. Henshaw, his "History of Saltpeter and +Gunpowder." I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary to +the King, which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic. + +I went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. Prujean, who showed me his +laboratory, his workhouse for turning, and other mechanics; also many +excellent pictures, especially the Magdalen of Caracci; and some +incomparable _paysages_ done in distemper; he played to me likewise on +the _polythore_, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, and +theorbo; by none known in England, nor described by any author, nor used, +but by this skillful and learned Doctor. + +15th August, 1661. I went to Tunbridge-Wells, my wife being there for the +benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greatly admired the +extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certain birch trees +among the rocks. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +13th September, 1661. I presented my "_Fumifugium_"[67] dedicated to his +Majesty, who was pleased that I should publish it by his special +commands, being much gratified with it. + + [Footnote 67: This pamphlet having become scarce, was in 1772 + reprinted in 4to, and is now incorporated in Evelyn's "Miscellaneous + Writings."] + +18th September, 1661. This day was read our petition to his Majesty for +his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a corporation, with +several privileges. + +An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn. + +1st October, 1661. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in one of his +yachts (or pleasure boats), vessels not known among us till the Dutch +East India Company presented that curious piece to the King; being very +excellent sailing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new +pleasure boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of York's; the +wager £100; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King lost +it going, the wind being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There +were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty sometimes +steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat attended. I brake fast this +morning with the King at return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased +to take me and only four more, who were noblemen, with him; but dined in +his yacht, where we all ate together with his Majesty. In this passage he +was pleased to discourse to me about my book inveighing against the +nuisance of the smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by +removing those particulars I mentioned, it might be reformed; commanding +me to prepare a Bill against the next session of Parliament, being, as he +said, resolved to have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of +the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare in England +comparatively to other countries. He then commanded me to draw up the +matter of fact happening at the bloody encounter which then had newly +happened between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the Tower, +contending for precedency, at the reception of the Swedish Ambassador; +giving me orders to consult Sir William Compton, Master of the Ordnance, +to inform me of what he knew of it, and with his favorite, Sir Charles +Berkeley, captain of the Duke's life guard, then present with his troop +and three foot companies; with some other reflections and instructions, +to be prepared with a declaration to take off the reports which went +about of his Majesty's partiality in the affairs, and of his officers' +and spectators' rudeness while the conflict lasted. So I came home that +night, and went next morning to London, where from the officers of the +Tower, Sir William Compton, Sir Charles Berkeley, and others who were +attending at this meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having +collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindication of his +Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and standers-by. + +On Thursday his Majesty sent one of the pages of the back stairs for me +to wait on him with my papers, in his cabinet where was present only Sir +Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty what I +had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page, came in Mr. Secretary +Morice with a large paper, desiring to speak with his Majesty, who told +him he was now very busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some +other time; the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand was of +extraordinary importance. So the King rose up, and, commanding me to +stay, went aside to a corner of the room with the Secretary; after a +while, the Secretary being dispatched, his Majesty returning to me at +the table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of France;[68] this +he read and then bid me proceed from where I left off. This I did till I +had ended all the narrative, to his Majesty's great satisfaction; and, +after I had inserted one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty +instructed me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the +posthouse, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris (the Earl of St. +Alban's), and then at leisure to prepare him a copy, which he would +publish. This I did, and immediately sent my papers to the Secretary of +State, with his Majesty's express command of dispatching them that night +for France. Before I went out of the King's closet, he called me back to +show me some ivory statues, and other curiosities that I had not seen +before. + + [Footnote 68: Henrietta Maria.] + +3d October, 1661. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-room adjoining +the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me came to me from a great crowd of +noblemen standing near the fire, and asked me if I had done; and told me +he feared it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he had +that morning spoken with the French Ambassador, who it seems had +palliated the matter, and was very tame; and therefore directed me where +I should soften a period or two, before it was published (as afterward it +was). This night also he spoke to me to give him a sight of what was +sent, and to bring it to him in his bedchamber; which I did, and received +it again from him at dinner, next day. By Saturday, having finished it +with all his Majesty's notes, the King being gone abroad, I sent the +papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse and a great favorite), and +slipped home, being myself much indisposed and harassed with going about, +and sitting up to write. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +19th October, 1661. I went to London to visit my Lord of Bristol, having +been with Sir John Denham (his Majesty's surveyor) to consult with him +about the placing of his palace at Greenwich, which I would have had +built between the river and the Queen's house, so as a large square cut +should have let in the Thames like a bay; but Sir John was for setting it +on piles at the very brink of the water, which I did not assent to; and +so came away, knowing Sir John to be a better poet than architect, +though he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) to assist him. + +29th October, 1661. I saw the Lord Mayor pass in his water triumph to +Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature after twenty years. + +2d November, 1661. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord Arlington, to visit +me, and to acquaint me that his Majesty would do me the honor to come and +see my garden; but, it being then late, it was deferred. + +3d November, 1661. One Mr. Breton preached his probation sermon at our +parish church, and indeed made a most excellent discourse on John i. 29, +of God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him +to the patron. + +10th November, 1661. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr. Basire, +that great traveler, or rather French Apostle, who had been planting the +Church of England in divers parts of the Levant and Asia. He showed that +the Church of England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, +and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven; that England was the very land +of Goshen. + +11th November, 1661. I was so idle as to go to see a play called "Love +and Honor." Dined at Arundel House; and that evening discoursed with his +Majesty about shipping, in which he was exceedingly skillful. + +15th November, 1661. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me there +were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that in but one +county; but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they +were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs. + +16th November, 1661. I presented my translation of "Naudæus concerning +Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miserably false printed. + +17th November, 1661. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the "Florentine +Council," and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on +Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return and restoration of the Church and +King. + +20th November, 1661. At the Royal Society, Sir William Petty proposed +divers things for the improvement of shipping; a versatile keel that +should be on hinges and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead. + +24th November, 1661. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me +concerning bees, etc. + +26th November, 1661. I saw "Hamlet, Prince of Denmark" played; but now +the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesty's +being so long abroad. + +28th November, 1661. I dined at Chiffinch's house-warming, in St. James's +Park; he was his Majesty's closet-keeper, and had his new house full of +good pictures, etc. There dined with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape +Verd, who was sent out to negotiate his Majesty's match with the Infanta +of Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned. + +29th November, 1661. I dined at the Countess of Peterborough's and went +that evening to Parson's Green with my Lord Mordaunt, with whom I stayed +that night. + +1st December, 1661. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough, going now to +Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the match with +Portugal. + +3d December, 1661. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly, an +order was made and registered that I should receive their public thanks +for the honorable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society, in +my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of +Naudæus. Too great an honor for a trifle. + +4th December, 1661. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, +concerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed a whole ear +of barley, which worked out at her side. I told him of the KNIFE +SWALLOWED[69] and the pins. + + [Footnote 69: This refers to the Dutchman, _ante_, 28th August, + 1641; and to an extraordinary case contained in a "Miraculous Cure + of the Prussian Swallow Knife, etc., by Dan Lakin, P. C." quarto, + London, 1642, with a woodcut representing the object of the cure and + the size of the knife.] + +I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in the fleet to bring +over our new Queen. + +7th December, 1661. I dined at Arundel House, the day when the great +contest in Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk; +however, it was carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of +Sumptuary Laws, entitled "Tyrannus" [or "The Mode"]. + +14th December, 1661. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one. + +16th December, 1661. I saw a French comedy acted at Whitehall. + +20th December, 1661. The Bishop of Gloucester preached at the Abbey at +the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the Duke of Albemarle. +It was a decent solemnity. There was a silver miter, with episcopal +robes, borne by the herald before the hearse, which was followed by the +Duke his brother, and all the bishops, with divers noblemen. + +23d December, 1661. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar with +extraordinary skill before the Duke. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +1st January, 1661-62. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolery of +the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln's-Inn, where came the King, Duke, +etc. It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock +Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He had his Lord +Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Officers, gloriously +clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was +the young spark who maintained the pageantry. + +6th January, 1662. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty opened +the revels of that night by throwing the dice himself in the privy +chamber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his £100. (The year +before he won £1,500.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away when +the Duke of Ormond had won about £1,000, and left them still at passage, +cards, etc. At other tables, both there and at the groom-porter's, +observing the wicked folly and monstrous excess of passion among some +losers; sorry am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess +should be countenanced in a Court, which ought to be an example of virtue +to the rest of the kingdom. + +9th January, 1662. I saw acted "The Third Part of the Siege of Rhodes." +In this acted the fair and famous comedian called Roxalana from the part +she performed; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the +Earl of Oxford's MISS (as at this time they began to call lewd women). It +was in recitative music. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +10th January, 1662. Being called into his Majesty's closet when Mr. +Cooper, the rare limner, was crayoning of the King's face and head, to +make the stamps for the new milled money now contriving, I had the honor +to hold the candle while it was doing, he choosing the night and +candlelight for the better finding out the shadows. During this, his +Majesty discoursed with me on several things relating to painting and +graving. + +11th January, 1662. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent +music performed by the ablest masters, both French and English, on +theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of +the Queen, purposely composed for her chapel. Afterward, my Lord Aubigny +(her Majesty's Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodging, and his +wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities; +especially a kind of artificial glass, or porcelain, adorned with +relievos of paste, hard and beautiful. Lord Aubigny (brother to the Duke +of Lennox) was a person of good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and +effeminacy. + +I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's attorney, a draft of an Act +against the nuisance of the smoke of London, to be reformed by removing +several trades which are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the +King and his people. It was to have been offered to the Parliament, as +his Majesty commanded. + +12th January, 1662. At St. James's chapel preached, or rather harangued, +the famous orator, Monsieur Morus, in French. There were present the +King, Duke, French Ambassador, Lord Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world +of Roman Catholics, drawn thither to hear this eloquent Protestant. + +15th January, 1662. There was a general fast through the whole nation, +and now celebrated in London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this +land. Great rain had fallen without any frost, or seasonable cold, not +only in England, but in Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here +near as warm as at midsummer in some years. + +This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at St. Margaret's. Dr. +Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached on Joshua vii. 12, showing how the +neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of +the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the Tower) was a +main cause of God's punishing a land. He brought in that of the +Gibeonites, as well as Achan and others, concluding with an eulogy of the +Parliament for their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and +vindicating the Church from sacrilege. + +16th January, 1662. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to +visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I returned, when he was +pleased to do me that honor of his own accord, and to stay some time +viewing such things as I had to entertain his curiosity. Afterward he +caused me to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house, and to +sit with him covered at the same table. There were his Highness, the Duke +of Ormond, and several Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds about a +project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which was laid aside +as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this, I accompanied the Duke to +an East India vessel that lay at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of +several curiosities. Among other spirituous drinks, as punch, etc., they +gave us Canary that had been carried to and brought from the Indies, +which was indeed incomparably good. I returned to London with his +Highness. This night was acted before his Majesty "The Widow," a lewd +play. + +18th January, 1662. I came home to be private a little, not at all +affecting the life and hurry of Court. + +24th January, 1662. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions of +building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolishing the old one; on +which I declared my thoughts. + +25th January, 1662. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that +corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford. + +3d February, 1662. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur Gorges' house. + +11th February, 1662. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York at +the Cockpit. The King was not at it. + +17th February, 1662. I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house at +Wimbledon, newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to help contrive the garden +after the modern. It is a delicious place for prospect and the thickets, +but the soil cold and weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sir Henry +Bennett. + +This night was buried in Westminster Abbey the Queen of Bohemia, after +all her sorrows and afflictions being come to die in the arms of her +nephew, the King; also this night and the next day fell such a storm of +hail, thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any man's +memory, especially the tempest of wind, being southwest, which subverted, +besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimneys (among others that +of my parlor at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and sea, that +several perished on both. Divers lamentable fires were also kindled at +this time; so exceedingly was God's hand against this ungrateful and +vicious nation and Court. + +20th February, 1662. I returned home to repair my house, miserably +shattered by the late tempest. + +24th March, 1662. I returned home with my whole family, which had been +most part of the winter, since October, at London, in lodgings near the +Abbey of Westminster. + +6th April, 1662. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we ordered that +the communion-table should be set (as usual) altar-wise, with a decent +rail in front, as before the Rebellion. + +17th April, 1662. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father was +executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seemed a man of parts. + +7th May, 1662. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly where were tried +several experiments in Mr. Boyle's VACUUM. A man thrusting in his arm, +upon exhaustion of the air, had his flesh immediately swelled so as the +blood was near bursting the veins: he drawing it out, we found it all +speckled. + +14th May, 1662. To London, being chosen one of the Commissioners for +reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and regulating +the hackney coaches in the city of London, taking my oath before my Lord +Chancellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's office, in Scotland +Yard, about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till the 16th, +when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made more passable +into the Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this +commission. + +25th May, 1662. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey +to Hampton Court, to see the Queen; who, having landed at Portsmouth, had +been married to the King a week before by the Bishop of London. + +30th May, 1662. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese ladies in +their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes, their complexions +olivader[70] and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Majesty in the same habit, +her foretop long and turned aside very strangely. She was yet of the +handsomest countenance of all the rest, and, though low of stature, +prettily shaped, languishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her +mouth by sticking a little too far out; for the rest, lovely enough. + + [Footnote 70: Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in + other accounts that Katharine of Braganza's Portuguese Ladies of + Honor, who came over with her, were uncommonly ill-favored, and + disagreeable in their appearance. See Faithorne's curious print of + the Queen in the costume here described.] + +31st May, 1662. I saw the Queen at dinner; the Judges came to compliment +her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of Ormond brought me to kiss her +hand. + +2d June, 1662. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their addresses to the +Queen, presenting her £1,000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, +and the Guardadamas, or mother of her maids,[71] and the old knight, a +lock of whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on by a +thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his Majesty from the +State of Venice; but it was not comparable for swiftness to our common +wherries, though managed by Venetians. + + [Footnote 71: The Maids of Honor had a mother at least as early as + the reign of Elizabeth. The office is supposed to have been + abolished about the period of the Revolution of 1688.] + +4th June, 1662. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon. + +8th June, 1662. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bedchamber. + +9th June, 1662. I heard the Queen's Portugal music, consisting of pipes, +harps, and very ill voices. + +[Sidenote: HAMPTON COURT] + +Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as capacious as any +Gothic architecture can have made it. There is an incomparable furniture +in it, especially hangings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also +many rare pictures, especially the Cæsarean Triumphs of Andrea Mantegna, +formerly the Duke of Mantua's; of the tapestries, I believe the world can +show nothing nobler of the kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. +The gallery of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, +elks, antelopes, etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery of silver on +crimson velvet, and cost £8,000, being a present made by the States of +Holland when his Majesty returned, and had formerly been given by them to +our King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her +again, was now presented to the King. The great looking-glass and toilet, +of beaten and massive gold, was given by the Queen-Mother. The Queen +brought over with her from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never +before been seen here. The great hall is a most magnificent room. The +chapel roof excellently fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visit the +wardrobe and tents, and other furniture of state. The park, formerly a +flat and naked piece of ground, now planted with sweet rows of lime +trees; and the canal for water now near perfected; also the air-park. In +the garden is a rich and noble fountain, with Sirens, statues, etc., cast +in copper, by Fanelli; but no plenty of water. The cradle-work of horn +beam in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very +observable. There is a parterre which they call Paradise, in which is a +pretty banqueting-house set over a cave, or cellar. All these gardens +might be exceedingly improved, as being too narrow for such a palace. + +10th June, 1662. I returned to London, and presented my "History of +Chalcography" (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society.[72] + + [Footnote 72: See Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings."] + +19 June, 1662. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, soon after he +had procured the Dukedom to be restored. This gentleman had now +compounded a debt of £200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I was much +obliged to that great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I +stayed a fortnight. + +2d July, 1662. We hunted and killed a buck in the park, Mr. Howard +inviting most of the gentlemen of the country near him. + +3d July, 1662. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard accompanied +me to see my son John, who had been much brought up among Mr. Howard's +children at Arundel House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the +Catholic religion, I was forced to take him home. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +8th July, 1662. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess of +Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary retinue. + +13th July, 1662. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, where I had +discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbadoes, concerning +divers particulars of that colony. + +28th July, 1662. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen-Mother, now +coming again for England, met with such ill weather as greatly endangered +him. I went to Greenwich, to wait on the Queen, now landed. + +30th July, 1662. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, +and particularly to inquire how the city had disposed of the revenues of +Gresham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no +better improved. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords +of the Council; but little was the progress we could make. + +31st July, 1662. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming buildings +and streets of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St. +James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Haymarket about +Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and +published for the better keeping the streets clean. + +1st August, 1662. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, +Philip,[73] now the Queen's Almoner (all brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, +still in Italy), came with a great train, and dined with me; Mr. H. +Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas, +for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime bred up in +their father's house. + + [Footnote 73: Since Cardinal at Rome. "Evelyn's Note."] + +4th August, 1662. Came to see me the old Countess of Devonshire, with +that excellent and worthy person, my Lord her son, from Roehampton. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +5th August, 1662. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about my +purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, now going Ambassador to +Portugal. + +13th August, 1662. Our Charter being now passed under the broad Seal, +constituting us a corporation under the name of the Royal Society for the +improvement of natural knowledge by experiment, was this day read and was +all that was done this afternoon, being very large. + +14th August, 1662. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord +Mayor and others of the Mercers' Company being summoned, to answer some +complaints of the Professors, grounded on a clause in the will of Sir +Thomas Gresham, the founder. + +This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St. Alban's and many +great ladies and persons, was pleased to honor my poor villa with her +presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and +staid till very late in the evening. + +15th August, 1662. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Clarendon) and +his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were +likewise collationed with us, and were very merry. They had all been our +old acquaintance in exile, and indeed this great person had ever been my +friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too. + +17th August, 1662. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer Book, reformed +and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be read, and the +solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the incumbents of England +under penalty of losing their livings; our vicar read it this morning. + +20th August, 1662. There were strong guards in the city this day, +apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian ministers not +conforming. I dined with the Vice-Chamberlain, and then went to see the +Queen-Mother, who was pleased to give me many thanks for the +entertainment she received at my house, when she recounted to me many +observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. + +21st August, 1662. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council of +the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty's original grant to be +of this Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and +statutes conducible to its establishment and progress, for which we now +set apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord +Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his +Majesty, our founder, nominated our first President. The King gave us the +arms of England to be borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace +of silver gilt, of the same fashion and size as those carried before his +Majesty, to be borne before our president on meeting days. It was brought +by Sir Gilbert Talbot, master of his Majesty's jewel house. + +22d August, 1662. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert Murray, +and then went to consult about a newly modeled ship at Lambeth, the +intention being to reduce that art to as certain a method as any other +part of architecture. + +23d August, 1662. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that +ever floated on the Thames, considering the innumerable boats and +vessels, dressed and adorned with all imaginable pomp, but, above all, +the thrones, arches, pageants, and other representations, stately barges +of the Lord Mayor and companies, with various inventions, music, and +peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore, going to meet and +conduct the new Queen from Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first time +of her coming to town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the Venetian +Bucentoras, etc., on the Ascension, when they go to espouse the Adriatic. +His Majesty and the Queen came in an antique-shaped open vessel, covered +with a state, or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, +supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with flowers, festoons +and garlands. I was in our newly built vessel, sailing among them. + +29th August, 1662. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society went in a +body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty's royal grace in granting +our Charter, and vouchsafing to be himself our founder; when the +President made an eloquent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious +reply and we all kissed his hand. Next day we went in like manner with +our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had much promoted our patent: he +received us with extraordinary favor. In the evening I went to the +Queen-Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. + +1st September, 1662. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went to Durdans, +where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince +Edward, and abundance of noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my +brother of Woodcot, my sister having been delivered of a son a little +before, but who had now been two days dead. + +4th September, 1662. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor and +Aldermen being again summoned, and the improvements of Sir Thomas +Gresham's estate examined. There were present the Bishop of London, the +Lord Chief Justice, and the King's attorney. + +6th September, 1662. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter +King-at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, master of the Mint, and several others. + +17th September, 1662. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society should +be a field argent, with a canton of the arms of England; the supporters +two talbots argent; crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like +arms of England, viz, three lions. The words "_Nullius in verbâ_." It was +presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter +King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their office for it. + +20th September, 1662. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my own +concerns, and afterward accompanied him to Monsieur Febure his chemist +(and who had formerly been my master in Paris), to see his accurate +preparation for the composing Sir Walter Raleigh's rare cordial: he made +a learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each ingredient. + +27th September, 1662. Came to visit me Sir George Saville, grandson to +the learned Sir Henry Saville, who published St. Chrysostom. Sir George +was a witty gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. + +3d October, 1662. I was invited to the College of Physicians, where Dr. +Meret, a learned man and library-keeper, showed me the library, theater +for anatomy, and divers natural curiosities; the statue and epigram under +it of that renowned physician, Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the circulation +of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir William Paddy's and other +pictures of men famous in their faculty. + +Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotchman, who had lived long at Rome, and was +esteemed a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guildhall are of +his hand, and so are some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his +Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astræa, the St. Catherine, and a +chimney-piece in the Queen's privy chamber; but his best, in my opinion, +is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three +dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch highlander +in his plaid. It is in his Majesty's dining room at Windsor. He had at +his house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of +Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and, above all, +those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates and medals, especially a +Scipio, and a Cæsar's head of gold. + +15th October, 1662. I this day delivered my "Discourse concerning Forest +Trees" to the Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the +Commissioners of his Majesty's Navy, being the first book that was +printed by order of the Society, and by their printer, since it was a +corporation. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +16th October, 1662. I saw "_Volpone_" acted at Court before their +Majesties. + +21st October, 1662. To the Queen-Mother's Court, where her Majesty +related to us divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and +wars in England. + +28th October, 1662. To Court in the evening where the Queen-Mother, the +Queen-Consort, and his Majesty being advertised of some disturbance, +forbore to go to the Lord Mayor's show and feast appointed next day, the +new Queen not having yet seen that triumph. + +29th October, 1662. Was my Lord Mayor's show, with a number of sumptuous +pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in a house in Cheapside +against the place prepared for their Majesties. The Prince and heir of +Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also the maids of honor. +I went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with Dr. Basiers, +one of his Majesty's chaplains, the great traveler, who showed me the +syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and +Asian churches to our confession. + +4th November, 1662. I was invited to the wedding of the daughter of Sir +George Carteret (The Treasurer of the Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), +married to Sir Nicholas Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of +London, in the Savoy chapel; after which was an extraordinary feast. + +5th November, 1662. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend the +Statutes, and dined together; afterward meeting at Gresham College, where +was a discourse suggested by me, concerning planting his Majesty's Forest +of Dean with oak, now so much exhausted of the choicest ship timber in +the world. + +20th November, 1662. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard; +afterward saw "The Young Admiral" acted before the King. + +21st November, 1662. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby giving +me great thanks for my "Sylva." + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +27th November, 1662. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian +Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be received with much state, the +Emperor not only having been kind to his Majesty in his distress, but +banishing all commerce with our nation during the Rebellion. + +First, the city companies and trained bands were all in their stations: +his Majesty's army and guards in great order. His Excellency came in a +very rich coach, with some of his chief attendants; many of the rest on +horseback, clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich furs, +caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks, furs, teeth, bows, +etc. It was a very magnificent show. + +I dined with the Master of the Mint, where was old Sir Ralph Freeman;[74] +passing my evening at the Queen-Mother's Court; at night, saw acted "The +Committee," a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic, Lacy, +acted the Irish footman to admiration. + + [Footnote 74: Of Betchworth, in Surrey.] + +30th November, 1662. St. Andrew's day. Invited by the Dean of Westminster +to his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of +Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached in the Abbey Church; then followed the +consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, +etc. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent dinners +that in my life I ever saw; it cost near £600 as I was informed. Here +were the judges, nobility, clergy, and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop +being universally beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was +author of those Characters which go under the name of Blount. He +translated his late Majesty's "Icon" into Latin, was Clerk of his Closet, +Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and yet a most humble, meek, and cheerful +man, an excellent scholar, and rare preacher. I had the honor to be loved +by him. He married me at Paris, during his Majesty's and the Church's +exile. When I took leave of him, he brought me to the cloisters in his +episcopal habit. I then went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that +evening. + +1st December, 1662. Having seen the strange and wonderful dexterity of +the sliders on the new canal in St. James's Park, performed before their +Majesties by divers gentlemen and others with skates, after the manner of +the Hollanders, with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly they stop in +full career upon the ice; I went home by water, but not without exceeding +difficulty, the Thames being frozen, great flakes of ice encompassing our +boat. + +17th December, 1662, I saw acted before the King "The Law against +Lovers."[75] + + [Footnote 75: By Sir William Davenant, a hotch-potch out of "Measure + for Measure" and "Much Ado about Nothing."] + +21st December, 1662. One of his Majesty's chaplains preached; after +which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind music accompanying +the organ, was introduced a concert of twenty-four violins between every +pause, after the French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, +or playhouse, than a church. This was the first time of change, and now +we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ; that instrument +quite left off in which the English were so skillful. I dined at Mr. +Povey's, where I talked with Cromer, a great musician. + +23d December, 1662. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the comedians +con and repeat his new comedy, "The Adventures of Five Hours," a play +whose plot was taken out of the famous Spanish poet, Calderon. + +27th December, 1662. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. + +29th December, 1662. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador, which +was with extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in +vests of several colors, with buskins, after the Eastern manner! their +caps of fur; tunics, richly embroidered with gold and pearls, made a +glorious show. The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting +House, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the Ambassador in a grave +march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson taffeta +scarf before his forehead. The Ambassador then delivered it with a +profound reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of State: it +was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the presents, borne +by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large pieces lined +with sable, black fox, and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of +gold and velvet; hawks, such as they said never came the like; horses +said to be Persian; bows and arrows, etc. These borne by so long a train +rendered it very extraordinary. Wind music played all the while in the +galleries above. This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master +of the ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet, +which cost £200, as I was assured. + +7th January, 1663. At night I saw the ball, in which his Majesty danced +with several great ladies. + +8th January, 1663. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke's, comedy +acted at the Duke's theater, which took so universally, that it was acted +for some weeks every day, and it was believed it would be worth to the +comedians £400 or £500. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff +and formal. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +10th January, 1663. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King, the +Duke, and ladies, in great pomp. + +21st January, 1663. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, of the Household, Sir +Charles Berkeley's, where were the Earl of Oxford, Lord Bellassis, Lord +Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, +and others. + +5th February, 1663. I saw "The Wild Gallant," a comedy;[76] and was at +the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queen, etc., danced. + + [Footnote 76: By Dryden. It was unsuccessful on the first + representation, but was subsequently altered to the form in which it + now appears.] + +6th February, 1663. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir John Robinson, +Lieutenant of the Tower. + +15th February, 1663. This night some villains broke into my house and +study below, and robbed me to the value of £60 in plate, money and +goods:--this being the third time I have been thus plundered. + +26th March, 1663. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a great +case pleaded by his Majesty's counsel; he having built a wall over a +water course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for +the plaintiff.[77] + + [Footnote 77: That is against the King.] + +30th April, 1663. Came his Majesty to honor my poor villa with his +presence, viewing the gardens, and even every room of the house, and was +pleased to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of +Richmond, Earl of St. Alban's, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of +quality. + +14th May, 1663. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to Barnes, +to visit my excellent and ingenious friend, Abraham Cowley. + +17th May, 1663. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I +had been kind, and assisted in his exile; but which he little remembered +in his greatness. + +29th May, 1663. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon at St. +Margaret's, before the House of Commons. + +30th May, 1663. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes Court from the +Crown, for the finishing of which I had been obliged to make such +frequent journeys to London. I returned this evening, having seen the +Russian Ambassador take leave of their Majesties with great solemnity. + +2d July, 1663. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay that night at +Arundel House. + +4th July, 1663. I saw his Majesty's Guards, being of horse and foot +4,000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle, in extraordinary +equipage and gallantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran +soldiers, excellently clad, mounted, and ordered, drawn up in battalia +before their Majesties in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland +trailed a pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot company, commanded +by the Lord Wentworth, his son; a worthy spectacle and example, being +both of them old and valiant soldiers. This was to show the French +Ambassador, Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of coaches, +etc., in the park. + +7th July, 1663. Dined at the Comptroller's; after dinner we met at the +Commission about the streets, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to +make up our accounts to pass the Exchequer. + +16th July, 1663. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. + +Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his daughter, +Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of Scott's Hall, in Kent. This gentleman +was thought to be the son of Prince Rupert. + +2d August, 1663. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and +Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately married son-in-law's, Sir Thomas +Scott, to Scott's Hall. We took barge as far as Gravesend, and thence by +post to Rochester, whence in coach and six horses to Scott's Hall; a +right noble seat, uniformly built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in +a park well stored, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by +the young knight, and in his pretty chapel heard an excellent sermon by +his chaplain. In the afternoon, preached the learned Sir Norton +Knatchbull (who has a noble seat hard by, and a plantation of stately fir +trees). In the churchyard of the parish church I measured an overgrown +yew tree, that was eighteen of my paces in compass, out of some branches +of which, torn off by the winds, were sawed divers goodly planks. + +10th August, 1663. We returned by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise +in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person, and learned critic, +especially in Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's +Royal Navy, and dined at Commissioner Pett's,[78] master-builder there, +who showed me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to +his art. He is esteemed for the most skillful shipbuilder in the world. +He hath a pretty garden and banqueting house, pots, statues, cypresses, +resembling some villas about Rome. After a great feast we rode post to +Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by barge home that +night. + + [Footnote 78: A monument to him in Deptford Church bears a most + pompous inscription: "_Qui fuit patriæ decus, patriæ suæ magnum + munimentum_;" to the effect that he had not only restored our naval + affairs, but he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy + which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful + and safe: he was to be esteemed, indeed, by this invention, the Noah + of his age, which, like another Ark, had snatched from shipwreck our + rights and our dominion of the seas.] + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +18th August, 1663. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where I had +discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of +Winchester, who enjoined me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen +College, Oxford, about a letter sent him by Dr. Goffe, a Romish +Oratorian, concerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book. + +20th August, 1663. I dined at the Comptroller's [of the Household] with +the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham; it was said it should be the last +of the public diets, or tables, at Court, it being determined to put down +the old hospitality, at which was great murmuring, considering his +Majesty's vast revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went to sit +in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the +Tower; in which some small progress was made. + +27th August, 1663. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, Secretary to my Lord +Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other private matters relating +to the revenue. Thence, to the Commissioners of the Mint, particularly +about coinage, and bringing his Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten +shillings for every pound weight of gold. + +31st August, 1663. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon, +Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremony performed at +Lambeth. First, went his Grace's mace bearer, steward, treasurer, +comptroller, all in their gowns, and with white staves; next, the bishops +in their habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches, Dr. +Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, Judge of the +Prerogative Court, with divers advocates in scarlet. After divine service +in the chapel, performed with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr. +Stradling (his Grace's chaplains) said prayers. The Archbishop in a +private room looking into the chapel, the bishops, who were +commissioners, went up to a table placed before the altar, and sat round +it in chairs. Then Dr. Chaworth presented the commission under the broad +seal to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. After +which, the Vicar-General went to the vestry, and brought his Grace into +the chapel, his other officers marching before. He being presented to the +Commissioners, was seated in a great armchair at one end of the table, +when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of Winchester, and +subscribed by all the bishops, and proclamation was three times made at +the chapel door, which was then set open for any to enter, and give their +exceptions; if any they had. This done, we all went to dinner in the +great hall to a mighty feast. There were present all the nobility in +town, the Lord Mayor of London, Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, etc. My Lord +Archbishop did in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to visit +my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went over to London. + +10th September, 1663. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the Navy, where, +sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about books and +authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. + +24th October, 1663. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my son's preceptor: +this gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's +"_Defensio_"; but was not at all infected with his principles, though +brought up by him. + +5th November, 1663. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's chaplain, preached at +Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse concerning obedience to +magistrates, against the pontificians and sectaries. I afterward dined at +Sir Philip Warwick's, where was much company. + +6th November, 1663. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone, off +from being Sheriff of Surrey. + +30th November, 1663. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the +choice of new officers, according to the tenor of our patent and +institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow +wore a St. Andrew's cross of ribbon on the crown of his hat. After the +election we dined together, his Majesty sending us venison. + +16th December, 1663. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at +the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, having three +locks, and in it £100 as a gift. + +18th December, 1663. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty's bedchamber +at Whitehall. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +2d January, 1663-64. To Barn Elms, to see Abraham Cowley after his +sickness; and returned that evening to London. + +4th February, 1664. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's; thence, to Court, +where I had discourse with the King about an invention of glass-grenades, +and several other subjects. + +5th February, 1664. I saw "The Indian Queen" acted, a tragedy well +written,[79] so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had never been +seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. + + [Footnote 79: By Sir Robert Howard and Dryden.] + +16th February, 1664. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and next day +to his Majesty, to whom it was dedicated; also to the Lord Treasurer and +the Lord Chancellor. + +24th February, 1664. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir Samuel +Tuke came to visit me. We went on board Sir William Petty's +double-bottomed vessel, and so to London. + +26th February, 1664. Dined with my Lord Chancellor; and thence to Court, +where I had great thanks for my "Sylva," and long discourse with the King +of divers particulars. + +2d March, 1664. Went to London to distribute some of my books among +friends. + +4th March, 1664. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his +Majesty's great favorite, and Secretary of Scotland; the Earl of Teviot; +my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of the Royal Society; Dr. Wilkins, +Dean of Ripon; Sir Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society. + +This spring I planted the Home field and West field about Sayes Court +with elms, being the same year that the elms were planted by his Majesty +in Greenwich Park. + +9th March, 1664. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about +regulating the Mint; and now it was that the fine new-milled coin, both +of white money and guineas, was established. + +26th March, 1664. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard, now a +month old, yet without any sickness of danger perceivably, being to all +appearance a most likely child; we suspected much the nurse had overlain +him; to our extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one: but God's +will be done. + +29th March, 1664. After evening prayers, was my child buried near the +rest of his brothers--my very dear children. + +27th April, 1664. Saw a facetious comedy, called "Love in a Tub"; and +supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett's. + +3d May, 1664. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his Lady, to visit +us. + +5th May, 1664. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on the water, +in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had a great banquet, returning +late. The occasion was, Sir Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister +to the Secretary of State. + +6th May, 1664. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter's collection of rare +shells, etc. + +8th June, 1664. To our Society, to which his Majesty had sent that +wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dangerous hole in the keel of a +ship in the India sea, which, being broken off with the violence of the +fish, and left in the timber, preserved it from foundering. + +9th June, 1664. Sir Samuel Tuke[80] being this morning married to a lady, +kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the Queen's Lord Almoner, L. +Aubigny in St. James's chapel, solemnized his wedding night at my house +with much company. + + [Footnote 80: A Roman Catholic.] + +22d June, 1664. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collection of +rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to their Order at +Paris, as a present to be reserved in their repository, but brought to +London by the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seen. +The chief things were, rhinoceros's horns; glorious vests, wrought and +embroidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colors, that for +splendor and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approaches it; a +girdle studded with agates and rubies of great value and size; knives, of +so keen an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the metal of our +color, but more pale and livid; fans, like those our ladies use, but much +larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with Chinese +characters; a sort of paper very broad, thin, and fine, like abortive +parchment, and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceedingly +glorious and pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which my +Lord Verulam describes in his "_Nova Atlantis_"; several other sorts of +paper, some written, others printed; prints of landscapes, their idols, +saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to +which they paid devotion; pictures of men and countries, rarely painted +on a sort of gummed calico, transparent as glass; flowers, trees, beasts, +birds, etc., excellently wrought in a kind of sleeve silk, very natural; +divers drugs that our druggists and physicians could make nothing of, +especially one which the Jesuit called _Lac Tigridis_: it looked like a +fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet was a concretion, or coagulation, +of some other matter; several book MSS.; a grammar of the language +written in Spanish; with innumerable other rarities. + +1st July, 1664. Went to see Mr. Povey's elegant house in Lincoln's-Inn +Fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is +indeed excellent, with the vases in imitation of porphyry, and fountains; +the inlaying of his closet; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of +his wine bottles. + +7th July, 1664. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slingsby's +lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. + +14th July, 1664. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, now going +to Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley; thence to Eltham, to see +Sir John Shaw's new house, now building; the place is pleasant, if not +too wet, but the house not well contrived; especially the roof and rooms +too low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should be; the +orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large plantation about it. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +19th July, 1664. To London, to see the event of the lottery which his +Majesty had permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the +Banqueting House, at Whitehall; I gaining only a trifle, as well as did +the King, Queen-Consort, and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots; which +was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who +was, in truth, a mere shark. + +21st July, 1664. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton House, +where his Lordship used me with singular humanity. I went in the +afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to +London. + +28th July, 1664. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichen, Secretary to the +Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare lutinist, with Monsieur +Oudart. + +3d August, 1664. To London; a concert of excellent musicians, especially +one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who invented a mathematical way of +composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but +without much harmony. + +8th August, 1664. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of Lady +Cotton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. + +9th August, 1664. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visit and +comfort my disconsolate brother; and on the 13th saw my friend, Mr. +Charles Howard, at Dipden, near Dorking. + +16th August, 1664. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charlton; +which he purchased of my excellent friend, Sir Henry Newton, now nobly +furnished. + +22d August, 1664. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the funeral +of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitory there, she +being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic discourse, +concluding with an eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It +was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I came back next +day with my wife to London. + +2d September, 1664. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de Zuylichen, Sir +Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the day +with us. + +5th October, 1664. To our Society. There was brought a newly-invented +instrument of music, being a harpsichord with gut-strings, sounding like +a concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of +parchment that rubbed horizontally against the strings. + +6th October, 1664. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. +Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physicians; after which +I was invited by Dr. Alston, the President, to a magnificent feast. + +7th October, 1664. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters +of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholomew's; passing the evening at +Whitehall, with the Queen, etc. + +8th October, 1664. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in +Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as +he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius, the Encyclopedist. + +15th October, 1664. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, where was the Duke of +Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester. After dinner, my Lord +Chancellor and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace +(for he now lived at Worcester-House in the Strand), building at the +upper end of St. James's street, and to project the garden. In the +evening, I presented him with my book on Architecture,[81] as before I +had done to his Majesty and the Queen-Mother. His lordship caused me to +stay with him in his bedchamber, discoursing of several matters very +late, even till he was going into his bed. + + [Footnote 81: "Parallel between Ancient and Modern Architecture, + originally written in French, by Roland Freart, Sieur de Chambray," + and translated by Evelyn. See his "Miscellaneous Writings."] + +17th October, 1664. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury, to Cornbury, +in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and bear him +company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with six horses; dined at +Uxbridge, lay at Wycombe. + +[Sidenote: OXFORD] + +18th October, 1664. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where we beheld +the destruction of that royal seat and park by the late rebels, and +arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house lately built by the Earl of +Denbigh, in the middle of a sweet park, walled with a dry wall. The house +is of excellent freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that is fine, +but never sweats, or casts any damp); it is of ample dimensions, has +goodly cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its close laying. We +designed a handsome chapel that was yet wanting: as Mr. May had the +stables, which indeed are very fair, having set out the walks in the +parks and gardens. The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the ponds very +convenient; the park well stored. + +20th October, 1664. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and +artificial grots and fountains, called Bushell's Wells, at Enstone. This +Bushell had been Secretary to my Lord Verulam. It is an extraordinary +solitude. There he had two mummies; a grot where he lay in a hammock, +like an Indian. Hence, we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of the Lees, +now Sir Henry Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty +bowling-green. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This gentleman's +mother was Countess of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir Walter St. +John. There were some pictures of their ancestors, not ill painted; the +great-grandfather had been Knight of the Garter; there was a picture of a +Pope, and our Savior's head. So we returned to Cornbury. + +24th October, 1664. We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrill's at Shotover. This +gentleman married the daughter and heir of Dr. James Usher, Archbishop of +Armagh, that learned prelate. There is here in the grove a fountain of +the coldest water I ever felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and +other timber is very commendable. We went in the evening to Oxford, lay +at Dr. Hyde's, principal of Magdalen-Hall (related to the Lord +Chancellor), brother to the Lord Chief Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, +who lost his head for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two +days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ Church, the +learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's, and several heads of houses, came +to visit Lord Cornbury (his father being now Chancellor of the +University), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visit Mr. +Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Christopher Wren, +in the tower of the schools, with an inverted tube, or telescope, +observing the discus of the sun for the passing of Mercury that day +before it; but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared; so we +went to see the rarities in the library, where the keepers showed me my +name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medals, and +pictures of the muscular parts of man's body. Thence, to the new theater, +now building at an exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of +Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future, till now being +in St. Mary's Church. The foundation had been newly laid, and the whole +designed by that incomparable genius my worthy friend, Dr. Christopher +Wren, who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in some +particulars. Thence, to see the picture on the wall over the altar of All +Souls, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather in imitation +of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill designed by +the hand of one Fuller; yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems too +full of nakeds for a chapel. + +Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen chapel, which is on +blue cloth in _chiar oscuro_, by one Greenborow, being a _Coena +Domini_, and a "Last Judgment" on the wall by Fuller, as in the other, +but somewhat varied. + +Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were two large locust trees, +and as many platani (plane trees), and some rare plants under the culture +of old Bobart. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +26th October, 1664. We came back to Beaconsfield; next day to London, +where we dined at the Lord Chancellor's, with my Lord Bellasis. + +27th October, 1664. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall, his +Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of +"Architecture," and again for my "_Sylva_" saying they were the best +designed and useful for the matter and subject, the best printed and +designed (meaning the _taille-douces_ of the Parallel of Architecture) +that he had seen. He then caused me to follow him alone to one of the +windows, and asked me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a +crayon; I presented him with both, and then laying it on the +window-stool, he with his own hands designed to me the plot for the +future building of Whitehall, together with the rooms of state, and other +particulars. After this, he talked with me of several matters, asking my +advice, in which I find his Majesty had an extraordinary talent becoming +a magnificent prince. + +The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to take +care of such sick and wounded and prisoners of war, as might be expected +upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war being already +declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased to nominate me +to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz, Sir William +Doily, Knt. and Bart., Sir Thomas Clifford, and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; +with a salary of £1,200 a year among us, besides extraordinaries for our +care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a +particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power +to constitute officers, physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to +dispose of half of the hospitals through England. After the Council, we +kissed his Majesty's hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor Finch +plead most elegantly for the merchants trading to the Canaries, praying +for a new Charter. + +29th October, 1664. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and land of +the Lord Mayor. I dined at Guildhall at the upper table, placed next to +Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and +the Duke of Buckingham, who sat between Monsieur Comminges, the French +Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl of +Manchester, Lord Chamberlain, and the rest of the great officers of +state. My Lord Mayor came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden +goblet his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to +the Ambassador; we returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and +drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and +rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample +hall. The feast was said to cost £1,000. I slipped away in the crowd, and +came home late. + +31st October, 1664. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I returned +thanks to Almighty God, begging his merciful protection for the year to +come. + +2d November, 1664. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came across the gallery +in Whitehall to give me thanks for my book of "Architecture," which I had +presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve. + +16th November, 1664. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers, and +appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the good Samaritan, with +this motto, "_Fac similiter_." Painters' Hall was lent us to meet in. In +the great room were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been +given to the Company by several of the wardens and masters of the +Company. + +23d November, 1664. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full +assembly of the Royal Society. + +24th November, 1664. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the +conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was +the heads of the speech he made at the reconvention of the Parliament, +which now began. + +2d December, 1664. We delivered the Privy Council's letters to the +Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, that a moiety of the +house should be reserved for such sick and wounded as should from time to +time be sent from the fleet during the war. This being delivered at their +Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, +invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers' Hall. + +[Sidenote: LONDON] + +20th December, 1664. To London, our last sitting, taking order for our +personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain Cocke's (our +treasurer), with that most ingenious gentleman, Matthew Wren, son to the +Bishop of Ely, and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. + +22d December, 1664. I went to the launching of a new ship of two bottoms, +invented by Sir William Petty, on which were various opinions; his +Majesty being present, gave her the name of the "Experiment": so I +returned home, where I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with +me. + +This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at Sayes Court. It was +now exceedingly cold, and a hard, long, frosty season, and the comet was +very visible. + +28th December, 1664. Some of my poor neighbors dined with me, and others +of my tenants, according to my annual custom. + +31st December, 1664. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His +mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of the Holy +Sacrament, which I partook of the next day, after hearing our minister on +the 4th of Galatians, verses 4, 5, of the mystery of our Blessed Savior's +Incarnation. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +Page headers in the original text indicated the location of the author. +I have converted these to sidenotes. When the location did not change +over several pages, only one sidenote was used. + +"[)u]" is used in the text to represent "u" with a breve above it. + +"^" is used in the text to represent superscripts. + +"[~C~]" is used to represent a backwards "C" + +Footnotes have been moved below the paragraph to which they relate. + +Inconsistencies have been retained in spelling, hyphenation, +punctuation, and grammar, except where indicated in the list +below: + + - Comma removed after "King" on Page xxii + - Comma removed after "ARTIBUS" and word was moved to the start of + following line on Page 17 + - "extrordinary" changed to "extraordinary" on Page 22 + - Period changed to comma after "considerable" on Page 50 + - Colon changed to semicolon after "good" on Page 57 + - "Cum-anno" changed to "Cum anno" on Page 60 + - "ceörcuit" changed to "coërcuit" on Page 60 + - Period added after "capital" on Page 66 + - Comma changed to a period added after "head" on Page 68 + - Comma added after "churches" on Page 70 + - Period added after "Paris" on Page 73 + - Period changed to a colon after after "vetustiss" on Page 98 + - "qu" changed to "qui" on Page 99 + - "suffiently" changed to "sufficiently" on Page 100 + - "theorboes" changed to "theorbos" on Page 107 + - "hicerigi" changed to "hic erigi" on Page 112 + - "d Arpino" changed to "d'Arpino" on Page 119 + - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 123 + - "Sextns" changed to "Sextus" on Page 124 + - "S.P. Q.R.D.D." changed to "S.P.Q.R.D.D." on Page 124 + - "tune" changed to "tunc" on Page 124 + - "Mosiac" changed to "Mosaic" on Page 132 + - "viz." changed to "viz" on Page 138 + - Period added after "grosse" on Page 138 + - Semicolon added after "Cybel" on Page 140 + - "Scipio'o" changed to "Scipio's" on Page 140 + - "forman" changed to "formam" on Page 144 + - Quote added before "Inclyta" on Page 146 + - "cinceres" changed to "cineres" on Page 153 + - Colon changed to a semicolon after "brass" on Page 161 + - Round bracket added after "excepted" on Page 164 + - "Lanframe" changed to "Lanfranc" on Page 166 + - Comma changed to a period after "VIII" on Page 167 + - "sinking" changed to "stinking" on Page 178 + - "suphurous" changed to "sulphurous" on Page 178 + - Comma added after "Pegasus" on Page 178 + - "gread" changed to "great" on Page 179 + - Colon changed to semicolon after "mummy" on Page 182 + - Period changed to comma after "ordnance" on Page 187 + - Comma changed to a semicolon after "marble" on Page 200 + - Period added after "October" on Page 212 + - "thought" changed to "taught" on Page 213 + - Extra "to" removed on Page 214 + - Extra "of" removed on Page 217 + - "Poti" changed to "Pot."-- on Page 223 + - Comma added after "August" on Page 243 + - "father s" changed to "father's" on Page 251 + - "Cecilia's" changed to "Cecilia's" on Page 259 + - "Musician's" changed to "Musicians" on Page 259 + - Extra "the" removed on Page 264 + - "captan" changed to "captain" on Page 265 + - "taffet" changed to "taffeta" on Page 265 + - "Febur's" changed to "Febure's" on Page 269 + - "Cromwells" changed to "Cromwell's" on Page 274 + - "Condè's" changed to "Condé's" on Page 275 + - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 + - Period added after "1653" on Page 281 + - Duplicate "the" removed on Page 284 + - Comma changed to a period after "Mr" on Page 284 + - "delighful" changed to "delightful" on Page 285 + - "Pophams" changed to "Popham's" on Page 285 + - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 + - "June" changed to "July" on Page 287 + - Comma added after "music" on Page 287 + - "MSS." changed to "MS." on Page 288 + - "meantine" changed to "meantime" on Page 290 + - Period added after "prospect" on Page 296 + - Comma added after "December" on Page 302 + - Comma changed to a period after "it" on Page 308 + - "indiffierently" changed to "indifferently" on Page 314 + - "January" changed to "February" on Page 314 + - "January" changed to "February" on Page 315 + - "deperate" changed to "desperate" on Page 317 + - Period added after "1657" on Page 317 + - Period added after "country" on Page 317 + - "commisioners" changed to "commissioners" on Page 326 + - Comma added after "November" on Page 328 + - "1650" changed to "1660" on Page 336 + - Period added after "Crisp" on Page 356 + - Comma changed to a period after "modern" on Page 356 + - Period added after "St" on Page 360 + - Extra "the" removed on Page 362 + - Comma changed to a period after "St" on Page 364 + - Period added after "Sylva" on Page 365 + - "October" changed to "November" on Page 366 + - Period added after "Worcester" on Page 366 + - Period added after "St" on Page 366 + - Comma changed to a period after "1664" on Page 376 + - "againt" changed to "against" on Page 378 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of John Evelyn (Vol 1 of 2), by +John Evelyn + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41218 *** |